-Title-
Watering Summer Plants
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Watering Summer Plants

     A blistering summer sun along with inadequate watering often
leads to the downfall of a potentially beautiful yard containing
a healthy lawn, flowers and shrubs.

     Many times the problem isn't recognized until plants are
badly damaged or dead.  And, over-watering can be as much a
problem as under-watering.

     Here are some suggestions for getting water to the roots of
plants, and keeping it there:

     Never water strictly by the calendar.  Instead, learn to
recognize dry plants and soil, and use these symptoms as your
watering guide.

     When plants are dry, water them thoroughly.  Water lawns so
the soil becomes wet several inches down.  This encourages deep
rooting and resistance to extreme dry periods.

     Water trees and shrubs by taking the sprinkler off the end
of the hose and letting the water run slowly for an hour or so.
Be sure water is going where you want it and not just running
off.

     Symptoms for water-logged plants are about the same as those
that have been kept too dry.  Plants begin to wilt and turn
yellow.

     To hold moisture in the soil, use a mulch such as tree bark,
bagasse or pine straw.  Besides reducing evaporation, mulches
keep the soil cooler and make weed pulling easier.  Be especially
careful to keep newly planted trees and shrubs well watered.
Their developing root systems are especially sensitive to under-
watering and over-watering.
-End-
-Title-
February Gardening Suggestions
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                 February Gardening Suggestions

     During February it's not unusual to begin thinking about the
warmer days of spring and the things you'll be doing outside.
But, it may be that you'll want to get outside and work in the
garden during the warm days of February because what you do
during February will certainly affect what your garden has to
offer during the spring.

     You can plant gladiolus during the latter days of January
and the first week to ten days of February.  You can prolong the
blooming season of glads by planting a few corms each week until
about the middle of March...but no later.

     Also, if you want early flowers, seed annuals in boxes and
keep them indoors.

     February is a good time to fertilize trees.  Remember, it's
best to put the fertilizer in holes in the soil.  Fertilize trees
with about a pound to a pound and a half of a balanced fertilizer
for each year of the tree's age.  A balanced fertilizer is one
such as 8-8-8.

     Shrubs should be fertilized with about a quarter of a pound
of a balanced fertilizer for every square yard of area covered by
the spread of the plant.  You can delay fertilizing your shrubs
until March.

     If you're more of a vegetable gardener, here are the
vegetables which can be planted during February...beets, carrots,
broccoli, turnips, mustard, spinach, parsley, cabbage, Chinese
cabbage, radishes, Irish potatoes, leaf lettuce, head lettuce
(during the first part of the month), snap beans and corn.  Also,
you can transplant broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, head lettuce
and shallots.

     If you're planning to plant tomatoes this spring, you can
plant tomato seeds in a greenhouse or in hotbeds during January
or by the end of February.  Tomatoes require about seven to eight
weeks from seeding until they reach transplant size.  Eggplants
and bell peppers require eight to ten weeks of growth.

     If you're considering planting a pecan tree or two, you
should get it done by late February.  The dormant season for
pecan trees ends in early March and trees must be set out before
the growing begins.  Container-grown pecan trees may be planted
on into spring as temperatures remain cool.

     Late February to early March is an ideal time to fertilize
the fruit plants in your home orchard.  An annual application of
fertilizer is critical to the maintenance of healthy, productive
fruit trees and plants.

     Here are a few other things you may want to do in February
if you grow fruit...plant blackberry root cuttings...check
strawberry plants for spider mites... apply pre-emerge herbicides
to the lawn to control spring annual weeds...plant container-
grown citrus trees...collect fig cuttings and add mulch to
rabbiteye blueberry plants.
-End-
-Title-
Ajuga
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                              Ajuga

     Ajuga, commonly called Bugleflower, is a popular ground
cover.  It's used in rock gardens and as an underplanting for
trees and shrubs.  Ajuga will grow in shade, on flat areas and on
slopes.

     Ajuga grows about five inches high.  It has a dense, compact
form.  Its dark green foliage is three to four inches long and
about an inch wide.  Some varieties turn bronze in the fall.

     Few ground covers grow as easily and as quickly as ajuga.
It spreads by runners, much like strawberries.  For a quick
cover, plant ajuga eight to ten inches apart.  It's easy to
propagate.  Even the smallest piece with roots will take hold.

     Ajuga can be planted anytime during the growing season, but
it does have a shallow root system and should be watered in dry
weather.

     Ajuga has a serious disease, crown rot, which causes plants
to wilt and die suddenly.  This disease is most common in hot,
dry weather and occurs most often on heavy, poorly drained soils.
To control crown rot, remove affected plants and the soil around
their roots.  Drench the area with a soil insecticide labeled for
ajuga.
-End-
-Title-
Boxwood
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Boxwood

     The American boxwood is a tall, evergreen shrub used for
foundation plantings.  It has long been associated with the
colonial homes of the South.

     Boxwoods thrive in well-drained, sandy, loamy soils that are
high in organic matter and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.  They like
semi-shade.  Avoid full sun and dry, hot locations.

     Boxwoods have shallow roots and cultivating around them can
disturb the root system.  Mulch boxwoods with pine needles or
other organic materials to a depth of no more than two inches.
This will help to conserve moisture, reduce weeds and help them
get established.  Be sure to water them thoroughly, but don't
plant them near drain spouts.  They don't like wet feet.

     Prune boxwoods yearly for the first few seasons after
planting.  Prune in early summer so that new growth can harden
off before the first frost.  Keep all dead twigs and branches
pruned.  They provide ideal conditions for disease-causing fungi.
After the first few years, prune the plants periodically until
you get the plants to the size you want.  Keep the stem crotches
at the base of the plant free of any accumulation of dead leaves
and other debris.  Boxwoods should be kept thoroughly watered
during the summer drought periods.

     Fertilize boxwoods in early spring.  Apply more fertilizer
in early June.  If the soil hasn't been tested, use one or two
pounds of 8-8-8 per 100 square feet of surface area.  Don't apply
fertilizer within six inches of the main stem.

     American boxwoods are especially susceptible to boxwood leaf
miners.  These are insect larvae that feed between the two
surfaces of leaves.  Other insects that attack boxwoods include
boxwood phyllid nymphs, Japanese wax scale and spider mites.  You
can control them with insecticides.

     The most common disease of boxwoods is phytophthora root
rot.  It can injure the plant seriously.  There's no chemical
cure for this disease, but the following suggestions may help you
avoid it:

     Be sure to buy healthy plants.  Don't plant boxwoods in
poorly drained areas.  If you must plant them in clay soils,
build up the beds.  Mix pine bark into the planting site to a
depth of 12 inches and remove any dead or dying branches
promptly.
-End-
-Title-
Crape Myrtle
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                          Crape Myrtle


     A popular small flowering tree used in landscaping is the
crape myrtle.  There are a number of reasons for the popularity
of the crape myrtle -- its availability, its long blooming
season, its freedom from serious pests, and its ability to grow
under most conditions.

     The crape myrtle begins blooming in May and you're likely to
see colors such as watermelon red, shades of lavender, red, pink,
white and even variegated colors.

     The crape myrtle is sometimes called the "Southern Lilac" or
the "Flowering Tree for l00 Days" because it blooms off and on
during a three month period.

     As soon as the flower heads fade, they should be pruned from
the plant with a knife or shears.  You should make the cut right
behind the old flower head, leaving as much foliage and stem as
possible.  New growth will appear and new flowers will follow in
about three to five weeks.  Then, as soon as these second flowers
begin to fade, they should be cut from the plant.  In many cases,
you'll find that you will get a third blooming stage in the fall.

     Crape myrtle should get full sunlight most of the day.
You'll find that crape myrtle planted in shady areas will produce
diseased, weak, and spindly plants with only a few flowers.

     Container-grown crape myrtle can be bought and transplanted
anytime of the year as long as you're careful to give them enough
water after they're transplanted.  Although crape myrtle can be
planted anytime, the best time to plant them is in the winter
when the plant is dormant.

     Crape myrtle needs to be fertilized.  Generally this tree
will need about one pound of fertilizer for every year of age of
the tree, up to ten pounds.  Apply the fertilizer by punching
holes about 12 to 15 inches deep into the soil and about two feet
from the trunk of the tree.  Use one cup of fertilizer, which is
about a half pound, in as many holes as is needed to get to the
amount needed by the tree.

     When you're looking for crape myrtle, you'll find three
general kinds -- dwarf, the improved weeping types, and the old,
standard, upright varieties.

     Unfortunately, it's hard to buy crape myrtle by variety.
Most of them are sold by color and size.  However, several named
varieties which are fairly common include "Near East" which is
flesh pink, grows vigorously and has an outstanding sculptural
form.  "Pink Ruffles" is a deep pink flowering dwarf.  "Cherokee"
is a bright, true red that is medium sized.  "William Toovey" is
the most common large watermelon red.  "Potomac" is a large,
long-flowered clear pink variety.  "Seminole" is a clear pink
plant with large flowers and several bloom cycles.  "Powhatan" is
light purple and reported to be mildew resistant.
-End-
-Title-
Gardenias
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                            Gardenias

     The gardenia is a popular flowering shrub, and is limited to
regions of warmer climate.  This delightful evergreen has
distinctive glossy foliage and fragrant, white, waxy flowers
which bloom in late spring and summer.  The blossoms have been a
favorite with gardeners for generations.

     Gardenias grow on a wide range of soils, but they do best in
moist, loamy, well-drained soil.  The soil pH should be between
5.0 and 6.0.  Gardenias grow best in soil mixed with organic
matter such as peat, bark and sewage sludge.  Mulching will help,
too.  Each spring, fertilize gardenias with a complete garden
fertilizer such as 8-8-8 and apply additional iron.  Apply
fertilizer a second time in early or mid-summer.  Don't fertilize
gardenias in the fall.  Doing so will stimulate tender growth
which may be killed if the temperature in winter drops below 15
degrees.

     White flies often attack gardenias.  They can be controlled
by insecticides or oil sprays.

     The oil sprays will control the white fly and remove the
black, sooty mold from gardenia leaves.  When using oil sprays,
follow the manufacturer's directions.  They cannot be used when
temperatures are very hot or cold.

     Prune gardenias after they have finished flowering.  This is
usually in late May or early June.  Prune late-flowering
varieties after flowering is completed.
-End-
-Title-
Hollies
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Hollies

     Chinese and Japanese are two of the most popular types of
hollies.  First, let's look at the Chinese holly.  When they're
left alone they will grow as tall as 20 feet, but most people
control this growth by pruning them.

     Chinese hollies are tolerant of poor soils and poor
drainage.  Of course, this makes them easy to grow.  They will
grow in shade but for best growth and fruiting, they need at
least six hours of sun each day.

     The most common mistake people make in growing Chinese
hollies is failing to prune the plants for several years after
planting.  When the pruning is finally done, it's often severe
and this results in an unattractive shrub.

     A good time to prune hollies is at Christmas.  Use the dark
green, glossy foliage and the red berries for decorating.  Prune
hollies only to shape them or to remove dead or injured branches.

     For a heavy berry crop, be sure to have both male and female
plants nearby.  Sometimes a male branch can be grafted onto the
back of a female plant.

     Fertilize Chinese hollies in mid-March or late fall.  When
scale insects attack hollies, control them with an insecticide.

     The other popular holly is the Japanese holly.  Japanese
hollies come in several varieties.  They grow slowly.  Some
varieties attain heights of only three to five feet while others
develop small tree proportions.  They can be planted in either
sun or shade and grow best in clay soils.

     The size of the leaf is the characteristic that helps you
distinguish one variety of Japanese holly from another one.  The
leaves are usually between one-half and one-inch long and from
one-fourth to one-half inch wide.  They're shiny and deep green.

     Japanese hollies have dense, slender, brittle branches that
break easily at the main stem.  They're a low maintenance plant,
so little pruning is needed except for an occasional shaping.

     When you plant Japanese hollies, be sure to mix in plenty of
organic matter with the soil.  Each spring, scatter a complete
fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, throughout the bed.  Use about two
pounds of fertilizer for 100 square feet of planting area.  Water
the plants thoroughly after you apply the fertilizer.  Don't use
more than the recommended amount of fertilizer.  If you do, you
may burn the roots of the plants.
-End-
-Title-
Hydrangea macrophylla - Big Leaf Hydrangea
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
           Hydrangea macrophylla - Big Leaf Hydrangea

     Plant hydrangeas in a semi-shaded area where the soil is
moist and well drained.  The soil should be rich in organic
matter.  Each spring, fertilize with a mixed fertilizer such as
8-8-8.

     Hydrangeas will grow at a pH of 5.0 to 8.0.  At a pH of 6.5
to 8.0, the flowers are pink.  At a pH of 5.0 to 6.5, the flowers
are blue.

     Hydrangeas have a shallow, fibrous root system.  They must
be watered during dry spells.  Some people call hydrangeas the
"indicator" plant because it can indicate the soil pH by the
color of its flower.

     It's also one of the first plants to wilt when plants are
under drought stress.  A wilted hydrangea usually indicates that
all garden and yard plants need water.  If a hydrangea becomes
too dry, it may suffer leaf "burn" or "scorch" during hot, dry
weather.

     Sometimes, hydrangeas make healthy, vigorous leaf and stem
growth but fail to bloom.  Many old, established plants stop
flowering after a few years.  Sometimes this occurs when
hydrangeas are planted near larger shrubs which cast too much
shade.  Other conditions that will result in a failure to bloom
or decreased flowering are poor soil, over-fertilization, cold
temperatures and late pruning.  Prune hydrangeas immediately
after flowering.  Flower buds are formed in the fall.  If you
wait too late to prune, you will reduce the number of flowers.

     Because hydrangeas drop their leaves in winter, they aren't
good foundation plants for a building.  Sometimes, they're
planted along the side walls or across the back of a building if
evergreen shrubs are nearby.  Hydrangeas are best when they're
planted in masses in a side or rear yard where they can be viewed
at a distance.  Mass them in beds near azalea plantings and they
will extend flower color into summer after azalea blooms have
fallen.
-End-
-Title-
Juniper
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Juniper

     There are many different kinds of juniper.  All are narrow-
leafed evergreens, but they vary in size, growth habit, color and
form.  Junipers can be grown as ground covers, foundation
plantings and screens.

     All junipers have common characteristics.  They can be grown
in full sun and they can tolerate poor soils, but they don't like
wet feet.  Plant them in well-drained soil.  Common pests of
junipers are bagworms and spider mites.  Bagworms can be
controlled by picking them off by hand.  Control spider mites by
spraying with an insecticide.

     Many junipers grow rapidly and can easily overgrow their
intended boundaries.  Learn something about the characteristics
of junipers before you plant them.  The Chinese junipers have an
upright and spreading form.  The Pfitzer variety of Chinese
juniper has branches that are at an angle of about 25 degrees to
the ground.  Pfitzer juniper has green needles and grows about
five feet tall.  Leave plenty of space if you plant this variety.

     Hetzi juniper is even larger.  It grows nine feet tall and
spreads to a width of 10 to 12 feet.  Hetzi has blue-green
foliage and branches that are at about a 45-degree angle to the
ground.

     The horizontal junipers are usually planted as ground
covers.  Their maximum height is about two feet and they have a
spread of four or five feet.  Shore juniper is a popular
horizontal juniper used as a ground cover.

     Again, learn the characteristics of junipers before you
choose one and plant it.  Most junipers should be pruned on the
tips every year.  They don't like to be pruned heavily more often
than every four or five years.
-End-
-Title-
Ligustrum
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                            Ligustrum

     You may have heard ligustrum called glossy privet.  This is
the name by which ligustrum is sold at most garden centers.

     Ligustrum--or glossy privet--is a tough, durable shrub that
can grow in almost any soil.  It can grow in full sun or in
partial shade.

     Ligustrum is an upright, fast-growing evergreen that often
reaches a height of 12 to 15 feet.  Its leaves are round and
smooth and medium to dark green in color.  The plant produces
small white flowers.  Although the flowers aren't showy, they are
fragrant.

     Ligustrum is most effective when it's used as a hedge.  It's
not recommended as a foundation plant because it can easily
become too large.  One current use of ligustrum is as a specimen
tree.  Simply prune off the side branches, expose the main stem,
and you have what appears to be an evergreen tree.

     The dwarf, more ornamental variety of ligustrum, is called
curly leaf ligustrum.  It is recommended as a specimen plant for
containers.  It has an interesting, twisted habit of leaf growth
and reaches a height of about four feet.  Growing conditions for
curly leaf are generally the same as those for regular ligustrum.
Growth is limited to the milder climates of the lower and middle
south.

-End-
-Title-
Liriope
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Liriope

     Liriope, sometimes called lilytuft, is among the best
evergreen ground covers available.  It's actually a lily -- a
stemless evergreen plant which multiplies rapidly and needs very
little care.  Liriope can be used under trees and shrubs, as a
mass planting on slopes and banks, or as an edging plant.

     Liriope can grow as high as 12 inches and has broad, dark-
green, grass-like leaves.  There is also a variegated variety
which has white striped leaves.

     In August, liriope produces small clusters of flowers on a
center spike, and these are followed by clusters of berry-like
fruit.

     Liriope grows at a moderate rate.  It does best in shade but
it will tolerate full sun and it can endure heat, drought and
salt spray.

     In starting your liriope, you should space the plants about
one foot  apart.  Planting should be done in fall.  The plants
will multiply, forming clumps.  It's best to dig and separate
these clumps every three to four years.  Another suggestion is to
shear off the top of your liriope with a lawn mower each spring.
The plants will then look less ragged as the new growth emerges.
-End-
-Title-
Mahonia
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Mahonia

     Mahonia, or Oregon grape as it is often called, is a member
of the barberry family and a native of the Orient.  It is an
attractive broadleaf evergreen which is useful in many
landscapes.

     Mahonia is a popular accent plant for foundations, and it
has recently been featured as a container plant for use on patios
and decks.

     Mahonia grows slowly and may reach a height of three to six
feet with a spread of three to five feet.  It grows as an
irregular grouping of upright stems.

     Mahonia has bright yellow flowers that bloom in late fall or
winter followed by bluish black fruit.

     You should plant mahonia in shade or at least partial shade,
such as that found on the north or east side of buildings.
Mahonia grows well in most soils, but it does require good
drainage.  The soil should have a pH of 6.5 to 7.  Because of
this relatively high pH, mahonia is not recommended for planting
with azaleas or camellias, which need a lower pH.

     Prune mahonias by removing one-third of the older, taller
canes to within three to four inches of the ground.  Pruning
should be done in spring and may only be needed every three to
four years.

     A related species, Mahonia bealei, leatherleaf mahonia, is a
clumsy, upright, coarse evergreen shrub growing up to 10 to 12
feet.  The foliage is a dull, dark blue-green, very leathery and
coarse textured.  The bright yellow flowers in April are more
fragrant than the Mahonia aquifolium.
-End-
-Title-
Mondo Grass
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                           Mondo Grass

     Mondo grass, or monkey grass, is an evergreen ground cover
with dark green leaves that are grass-like in texture.  Plants
spread rapidly by underground root stalks.  They can cover an
entire area fairly quickly, converting it into a mass of dark
green foliage.

     Mondo grass grows best in milder climates and in shaded
areas with rich soil and good drainage.

     Plant mondo grass in the fall and space your clumps of grass
about five inches apart.

     Mondo grass is nearly maintenance free.  It requires no
pruning, and there are no insects or diseases that bother it.
-End-
-Title-
Nandina
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Nandina

     Nandina, which some people call Heavenly Bamboo, is a
versatile landscape plant.  Nandina is grown as a foundation
plant and most recently as an accent plant or specimen plant for
containers.

     Nandina grows as a mass of upright, unbranched stems.  The
leaves will range from deep green in shady locations to a light
green or reddish purple in the sun.  Nandina blooms in mid-spring
but has only moderately showy, white flowers.  The shrub is
appreciated most for its bright red berries in the fall and
winter.

     For best results, nandina should be planted in partial
shade.  Try to choose a spot with rich soil and good drainage.
Don't plant nandina between curbs and sidewalks because the soil
temperature will be too high for it.

     After several years, the plant will become "leggy."  That's
when the inner canes or stems should be removed starting near the
ground.  This should be done in late winter or early spring.
You'll end up with a more compact plant with foliage from ground
level upward.

     By selectively pruning nandinas yearly, you won't sacrifice
its flowers and berries.

     Nandina comes in the standard size which grows to five feet
or more.  Compact varieties grow to a height of two to four feet,
while dwarf nandinas seldom grow taller than two feet.

     Nandina has few insect and disease pests, however, the dwarf
kinds are susceptible to powdery mildew.
-End-
-Title-
Palms
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                              Palms

     Most palms are too large to use as house plants, but the
pygmy palm and the parlor palm can be used indoors.

     The pygmy palm grows best in diffused light and is happy in
an east window where it can get morning sun.  If it shows signs
of leaf burn, move it a few feet from the window or put sheer
curtains between it and the glass.  It can eventually grow as
tall as 12 feet, but it takes many years before it even begins to
form a trunk.

     The parlor palm grows rapidly to about eight feet in height.
It is tolerant of dim light, so it's ideal to use against an
inside wall of a room.

     Both palms grow best in a regular potting soil mixture
containing one part peat, one part garden loam and one part sand.
Keep the soil evenly moist, except in winter.  In winter, let the
soil become dry to the touch before watering.  Sponge the leaves
with a damp cloth about once a week.  Palms like a warm
temperature--about 76 to 78 degrees.

     Large containers, like tubs, are good for palms.  They can
grow for years in the same container, but do re-pot them every
few years.  While many foliage plants require daily care, once
palms adjust to home conditions, they need little care.
-End-
-Title-
Photinia
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                            Photinia

     Photinia, usually called "red tip," is an excellent choice
for a screen or hedge planting.  This evergreen shrub is a native
of China and a member of the rose family.

     Photinia grows to a height of 15 to 20 feet, and it can be
grown as a multi-stemmed large shrub or as a small tree.
Repeated pruning may be necessary to get the form and intensity
you want.

     The new growth on photinia is a brilliant red.  This is why
it's sometimes called "red tip."  The red changes to dark green
as the growth matures.

     Photinia grows well in most soils as long as they aren't too
wet.  In wet, poorly drained soils, photinia is subject to root
rot.  The plant likes either full sun or partial shade.

     The most popular variety is the hybrid Frazieri.  It is
tolerant of most growing conditions and most weather conditions.
It can be damaged by a late frost though.  Other photinias that
grow well in heavy soils are Chinese photinia and red leaf
photinia.  Don't plant photinia too close to a building.  It
should be at least five or six feet away from the foundation.
-End-
-Title-
Pyracantha
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                           Pyracantha

     Pyracantha, commonly called firethorn, is a shrub that is
often misplaced in the landscape.  This rapid growing, broadleaf
evergreen is not recommended for planting around the foundation
of a single story building.  It grows too large too fast.

     On the other hand, pyracantha makes an excellent hedge.  It
can be espaliered against a wall, but you should realize how much
maintenance is required to prune a pyracantha.  Also, if
pyracantha is planted under an overhang or eaves where direct
rainfall cannot hit the branches, pests such as spider mites are
likely to be a problem.

     Pyracantha can grow to a height of 8 to 15 feet, and it can
spread to be that wide.  Pyracantha grows upright.  In fact, old
plants become almost tree-like.  Pyracantha produces good fall
color because its clusters of berries turn red then.  The berries
will last until spring.  Pyracantha should be planted in a sunny
place.

     Pyracantha has one distinct characteristic.  Instead of
young stems terminating in a bud or additional shoot, they seem
to die and develop into a spine-like point.  These points can be
quite painful if you get stuck by them.

     Flowers and berries of pyracantha are produced only on
growth that is at least one year old.  So, some of the older
growth must be left on the plant when it is pruned if you expect
to have any flowers and berries.

     Pruning can be done at almost any season, but winter or
early spring pruning is recommended.  If you wait until early
spring when flowering occurs, you can selectively prune to leave
flower clusters so you will have berries in the fall.  Some
pruning may be necessary during spring and summer to remove
excessive growth.  Remember, always leave some of the growth made
each year so you'll have flowers and berries.
-End-
-Title-
Vines
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                              Vines

     Gardeners have vines for every season and almost every
reason for use in landscaping.  There's even some species that
appear designed for the impatient gardener who wants an instant
landscape.  These include the morning glory, hyacinth bean, and
cypress vines.

     Seasonal varieties feature such spring species as the
Carolina jasmine, wisteria and red honeysuckle.  Popular early
summer specimens are the star, often called the Confederate
jasmine, morning glory, hyacinth bean, cypress vine, and the Rosa
de Montana or coral vine.  The Virginia creeper and autumn
clematis are two fall favorites.  Some of the varieties, such as
Carolina jasmine, Confederate jasmine, and Rosa de Montana, may
not grow well in cooler climates.

     These vines have many functional as well as attractive uses.
Unsightly chain-link fences can be decoratively draped and patios
screened for privacy with evergreen vines.  English ivy
flourishes in partial or full shade while Confederate jasmine
drapes well in shade or sun.

     When vines are used overhead for shade over sunny patios or
as backdrops at pool side, select a variety that will lose its
leaves in cold weather to allow warm rays from the winter sun to
filter through.  Popular vines for overhead structures include
wisteria, grapes, morning glory and Rosa de Montana.

     In spite of their beauty, keep in mind some fast-growing
vines such as wisteria and common honeysuckle can be a nuisance.
Such rapid spreading vines demand fast and routine control to
keep them in place.  If allowed to spread, their profuse growth
can cover the tops of shrubs, cutting off proper light and
aeration.  Also, large twining vines, such as wisteria, can
injure a tree by choking off the flow of food from the roots.

     A better variety to plant near trees is the English ivy
which doesn't feed off their trunks and branches.
-End-
-Title-
Wax Myrtle
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                           Wax Myrtle

     Wax myrtle is a most versatile landscape shrub.  You can use
wax myrtle as a screen or hedge, as a specimen plant for a patio
or deck, or you can prune away the lower branches and use it as a
small tree.  But don't use wax myrtle as a foundation plant.  It
gets too big to be a foundation plant.

     Wax myrtle is a broadleaf evergreen which grows to a height
of 15 to 20 feet and spreads to a width of 10 to 12 feet.  The
leaves are dark green and have a pleasing odor when they're
crushed.  Wax myrtle tends to develop multiple stems and the bark
is attractive, which is why some people like to use it as a small
tree.

     Where other broadleaf evergreens have trouble growing
because of such things as poor soil and poor drainage, you can
usually use wax myrtle.

     One word of caution -- wax myrtle is difficult to transplant
from native areas, but it can be purchased at most garden
centers.
-End-
-Title-
Air Layering
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                          Air Layering

     If your tropical plants have that worn out, ragged look
after spending a winter inside the home, there's a way they can
be revitalized without spending money on new ones.

     In most cases they can be rejuvenated by an uncomplicated
process known as air layering.  And, the materials needed to put
new life into old plants can be found around the home.

     Ideal candidates for air layering include such plants as
schefflera, dracaena, dieffenbachia and rubber plants that have
become very tall and spindly with age.  This condition causes
leaves at the bottom to drop off and leave a cluster at the top
of the stalk.

     In making an air layer, you're going to root the top portion
of a plant while it is still attached to the trunk.  You will
need a sharp knife, moist peat moss or sphagnum moss, heavy
plastic or kitchen foil and a freezer or bread bag tie.

     Begin by making a small v-shaped cut around the stem at the
place where new root growth is desired.  Place a cluster of moist
peat moss or sphagnum moss around the cut.  Wrap the heavy
plastic or foil around the moss and use the freezer bag or bread
bag tie to hold the covering in place around the cut.

     Roots should begin forming in three to four weeks.  Once you
observe a heavy mass of roots, cut below the root formation and
plant the new cutting in a standard potting mix.
-End-
-Title-
Controlling Powdery Mildew on Shrubs
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
              Controlling Powdery Mildew on Shrubs

     Powdery mildew can affect many shrubs.  The severity of this
disease depends on several things:  the age and condition of the
plants, when the plant is infected, and the weather conditions
during the growing season.

     Plants that can be affected seriously by powdery mildew are
roses, zinnias, crape myrtle and euonymous.  Infected plants
typically have a grayish-white, powdery coating over the leaves.
Later in the season this coating may be dotted with small brown
or black specks.  Infected leaves are often distorted, curled or
twisted.  They may be smaller than normal.  Leaves that are
affected seriously may be yellow with small patches of green.
They may fall prematurely.

     Mildew likes warm weather.  It can be found in mid-summer
when most fungi have stopped growing.  Mildew is most severe on
young, succulent tissue resulting from heavy nitrogen
fertilization and watering.  The disease is usually more common
in crowded plantings.

     Because environment plays a large role in the development of
powdery mildew, you may be able to control the disease by making
the environment less attractive to it.  Space plantings so air
can circulate, and avoid poorly drained soils.  Collect and
remove lawn clippings.  Don't apply too much water and
fertilizer.  Rake and burn infected leaves and shoots to destroy
the overwintering stages of the fungus.

     Chemical control of powdery mildew is effective.  Use it if
the disease is serious enough to justify the expense.  Because
most of the mildew fungus is external, this disease is among the
few that can be controlled after infection has occurred.  Several
fungicides are available for mildew control.  Use them with care
and according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
-End-
-Title-
Espaliering Shrubs
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Espaliering Shrubs

     Espalier is the practice of controlling plant growth so that
it grows flat against something such as a wall.  Should you
decide to use an espaliered plant in your landscape, be sure you
select a plant which can be managed on the wall.  Large, fast-
growing plants like pyracantha require a huge walled area and
they need many hours of pruning every year.

     On the other hand, Camellia Sasanqua grows much slower and
can be managed in a small area fairly easily.  But this variety
is limited to the lower or middle southern growing region.

     Most nurseries have several different plants that have
already had the first pruning to give them their basic shape.
However, almost any young plant can be used this way.

     You should put the plant very near the wall and set it in
the ground just as you would most other plants.  As the plant
grows, you will need to anchor it to the wall.  You can get the
small anchoring devices from your nursery or garden center.

     You should keep in mind that in most situations, you will
not want more than one espaliered plant in a given area.  The
exception would be if the plant looked very natural or was not
prominent.

     An espaliered plant can be a very distinctive feature in
your landscape and can often be used where no other plant can be
used.
-End-
-Title-
Fertilizing Shrubs
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Fertilizing Shrubs

     Late winter is the recommended time to fertilize shrubs that
are already established in your lawn.  Soil tests indicate that
the three elements most often needed by the soil are nitrogen,
phosphorus and potassium.  There are several specialty
fertilizers on the market for various plants and they all do a
fine job of providing the elements the plants need.  There are
special formulations for azaleas, camellias, roses and lawns,
just to name a few.  However, a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8
will also do a good job as an all-purpose plant food.

     How much fertilizer the plant gets depends on several
things, such as the age of the plant, fertility of the soil and
the texture of the soil.  A soil test in advance of fertilization
is recommended to determine if and how much fertilizer is needed.
But, in general, for individual shrubs, you should apply from
one-half cup to a full cup of a complete fertilizer for each
plant.  For newly-planted shrubs, you would use only half this
much.

     To fertilize shrubs, scratch through the mulch beneath the
plant until you get down to the soil.  Spread the fertilizer
evenly around the plant.  Don't apply it in bands and don't touch
the stem of the shrub with the dry fertilizer.

     Usually, there is enough rain to activate the fertilizer so
you probably won't need to add water.
-End-
-Title-
Ground Covers
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                          Ground Covers

     Ground covers play a major role in landscape developments.
However, protecting these ground covers against weeds and grasses
can be frustrating, especially during the early days following
planting.

     The saying "the first year ground covers sleep, the second
year they creep, and the third year they leap" is an easy way for
you to remember the growth rate of ground covers.  The first two
years, you must be patient yet persistent in keeping your bed
free of weeds.  Once the weeds take over, there's not much chance
of saving the ground cover.

     The best way to control weeds is to pull them by hand
regularly.  You can kill the weeds with herbicides, but you're as
likely to kill the ground cover as you are the weeds.

     You can make the weeding job easier by keeping a thick layer
of mulch around the ground cover.  Water the bed well before you
weed it and you'll find it much easier to dig up the weeds.

     To make sure you get enough coverage, your ground cover
plants need to be set out just right.  For example, the grass-
like ground cover plants, like border grasses, need to be set
about eight inches apart to provide coverage in two years.

     When there is enough moisture, about an inch each week, from
either rainfall or irrigation, ground covers will thrive on
regular fertilization.  Don't fertilize after October.

     Once the ground is covered with your chosen plants, they
will compete with the weeds and grasses, making your job easier.
Then you can sit back and enjoy your almost maintenance free
ground covers.
-End-
-Title-
When to Prune Flowering Shrubs
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                 When to Prune Flowering Shrubs

     Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned as soon as the
flowers have disappeared.  By pruning the shrubs as soon as the
flowers have disappeared, the plants will have time to grow new
shoots before the middle of the summer.  This is when they
produce the buds for next spring's flowers.

     Some of the shrubs that should be pruned during late winter
include azaleas, flowering quince, forsythia, bridal wreath,
nandina and primrose jasmine.

     You should prune most flowering shrubs so that about a third
of the oldest and tallest shoots are removed each year.  Cut
these leggy shoots to within four to six inches of the ground.
The stubs left after pruning will produce new shoots to fill in
near the bottom.  This should make the plant more compact.

     After you've finished this pruning, thin out the top of the
plant.  You do this by making random cuts, being careful not to
make the plant look as though it's been butchered or severely
sheared.  An annual pruning is much better than a severe one that
is done after several years of growth.
-End-
-Title-
Planting Trees
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                         Planting Trees

     Shade trees add much to the landscape of your home, and
their shade can cut your heating and cooling bills.  If you don't
have trees shading your home, you may wish to plant some.  The
task isn't hard, and the tree should survive if you follow seven
basic steps.

     First, dig the hole before moving the tree.  It's important
for you to put the tree in the ground as quickly as possible, so
wait to move the tree until the hole for it is ready.

     If the tree is bare-rooted, dig the hole large enough to
spread the roots out naturally.  If you're planting a balled or
burlapped tree, make the hole large enough to add at least six
inches of prepared soil on all sides of the ball.

     Next, keep the roots moist while the tree is out of the
ground.  Balled or container trees should be watered frequently
to prevent drying of the roots.  If you're not going to plant the
tree for an extended period, "heel in" the tree.  This means
covering the roots with loose soil or organic matter, such as
wood shavings, pine bark or compost.

     The third step is to place the tree in the hole at the same
depth, or just slightly higher, than it grew before
transplanting.  Remember to spread the roots of bare-rooted trees
to prevent crowding.  You should place them in the same position
they were growing before transplanting.

     Now you're ready to replace the soil around the roots.  A
good planting mixture is essential if the tree is to establish
new roots.  At least two-thirds of the parent soil from the
planting hole should be incorporated in the backfill.  You can
mix one-third of the parent soil, topsoil, organic matter and
sand to make your own planting soil.  Firm the soil several times
while filling to make sure that no air pockets form.  You can
build a mound or small levee around the tree to help hold water
and add a mulch of leaves or straw around the tree to conserve
moisture.

     Trees should be watered after planting.  For bare-rooted
trees, you should water while placing the soil around the tree.
Watering while planting eliminates air pockets.

     The sixth step is to wrap the trunk.  Wrapping the trunk
slows evaporation of moisture from the bark, protects the bark
from the hot rays of the sun, which can cause sunscald, and
prevents wood borers from attacking the tree.

     Finally, you should stake the tree.  For larger trees, use
two-by-two-inch wooden or metal pipe stakes to hold the tree in
place while it grows.

     There are two ways you can stake the tree.  One way is to
use two stakes placed close to the trunk of the tree.  A wire is
tied to each stake and around the tree to hold it upright.  The
wire around the tree is threaded through a short section of
garden hose so the wire won't rub on the young tree.

     For trees in the open away from where people walk and grass
is mowed, place three stakes in a triangle about five to six feet
from the tree.  Support wires from the tree to the stakes give a
lot of anchorage.  Wrapping the support wires with a colorful
material can help prevent accidents caused by not being able to
see the thin wires.

     Leave the stakes in place for at least one growing season.
-End-
-Title-
Radishes
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                            Radishes

     Radishes are easy to grow.  They're productive, grow quickly
in cool weather and can be ready to eat only 30 days after you
plant them.  Radishes are excellent for an intermediate crop.
Grow them in early spring and again in fall.

     Two types of radishes are grown by home gardeners.  The type
seen in grocery stores is an annual that grows only in cool
weather and matures in 25 to 35 days.  Successive plants can be
made every 10-14 days from the time soil can be worked in the
spring until early summer, then again in late summer for fall
harvest.  During hot weather, plants produce seed stalks and
roots become very hot.

     Seeds are often started with carrots, parsnips, or beets to
mark the rows of these slower-growing plants or between slow-
maturing vegetables such as cabbage, pepper, and tomatoes.
Overcrowding causes poor root development and slow development
results in hot or woody roots.  Therefore, good water and
nutrient supplies are needed to encourage quick growth for better
quality.  Over fertilization, however, can cause excessive top
growth and poor root development.

     Winter or storage radishes are biennials that are planted in
mid-summer for fall or winter harvest.

     They are slower growing, requiring 45-70 days to maturity.
They are often planted in the space in which early corn or onions
were planted.  Varieties range from mild to very hot and produce
roots up to 50 pounds.

-End-
-Title-
Substitutions for Granulated Sugar
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
               Substitutions for Granulated Sugar

     Granulated sugar is made from beets or cane.  Both are
similar and may be used interchangeably.

     Brown or Barbados sugar is a moister beet or cane sugar.  It
comes light or dark--the dark variety being more strongly
flavored with molasses.  To substitute brown sugar for granulated
sugar, use equal amounts but firmly pack the brown sugar into the
measuring cup.

     Raw sugar is processed from cane.  Because of its
impurities, the U. S. Department of Agriculture considers it
unfit to use as a food ingredient.  Turbinado sugar is raw sugar
that has been partially refined.  It contains the molasses
portion of the sugar and resembles demerara sugar, often called
for in English recipes.  To substitute turbinado for granulated
sugar, use equal proportions, but be aware of turbinado's heavy
molasses flavor.

     Fructose, the natural sugar in fruits, has about the same
caloric value as granulated sugar cup per cup.  However, because
it often tastes from 1 to 1.7 times sweeter than granulated
sugar, you may only need to use two-thirds as much.

     Confectioners' or powdered sugar is a very fine sugar used
in icings.  It doesn't substitute well for granulated sugar in
baking.  In other uses, substitute one and three-fourths cups
confectioners' sugar for one cup granulated sugar.

     Corn syrup is half as sweet as sugar.  Therefore, for the
same sweetening power, substitute two cups of corn syrup for one
cup sugar.  For best results, never replace more than half the
sugar called for in a recipe with corn syrup.  Also, reduce the
liquid by one-fourth cup for each two cups of corn syrup used.

     Honey is one and one-fourth times sweeter than granulated
sugar.  It also has 1030 calories per cup compared with 770 per
cup of granulated sugar.  To substitute honey for sugar, use one
cup less three tablespoons honey per cup of sugar called for.
Also, reduce the liquid in the recipe by three tablespoons for
each cup of honey substituted and add a pinch of baking soda to
neutralize the acidity of the honey.  If honey is substituted in
jams, jellies, and candies, a higher degree of heat must be used
when cooking.

     Molasses is not as sweet as granulated sugar; therefore, use
one and one-third cups molasses or sorghum for each cup of
granulated sugar.  For best results, don't replace more than half
the sugar called for with molasses.  For each cup of molasses
substituted, reduce the other liquids by five tablespoons, add
one-half teaspoon baking soda, and omit or decrease the baking
powder by one teaspoon.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Poultry
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                        Freezing Poultry

     All types of poultry are suitable for freezing including
chickens, turkeys, ducks, geese, or capons.  If you follow the
proper techniques, freezing will cause little change in flavor,
texture, or nutritive value.  Poultry may be frozen cooked or
uncooked, whole, in halves, or in serving size pieces.

     When you select poultry to freeze, choose well-fleshed birds
without skin blemishes.  Choose poultry according to how you plan
to use the frozen product.  Young poultry is suitable for
roasting, frying, and broiling.  Mature birds can be used for
braising and stewing.

     Use strictly sanitary procedures when you prepare to freeze
any food, but especially animal products.  Freezing doesn't
sterilize food; the extreme cold simply slows down changes that
affect quality or cause spoilage in food.  Since raw poultry may
contain a type of bacteria called salmonella, be sure to wash
your hands, cutting boards and utensils with hot, soapy water
after working with uncooked poultry.

     Proper packaging is a "must" to prevent "freezer burn" or
drying on the surface of frozen foods.  Freezer burned foods are
safe to eat but their taste and nutritional quality may be
lessened.  If you package your own poultry, use a packaging
material which is moisture proof or moisture resistant.  Such
materials include heavy foil, heavy plastic, and freezer-weight
paper which is waxed or plastic coated.  Clean, thin plastic
store wraps are not suitable for freezing.  You should rewrap
poultry purchased from a grocery store in one of the moisture
proof or moisture resistant materials just mentioned.  Freezer-
weight plastic bags are available in several sizes for freezing
whole or half birds.  Rigid containers are handy for cooked
poultry frozen in its broth--just remember to leave head space
for expansion.

     Do not stuff raw poultry before freezing.  When freezing
leftover stuffed poultry, remove the stuffing and freeze it in a
separate package.  When freezing poultry in halves or pieces,
pack with a double layer of freezer paper or waxed paper between
them.  Remove as much air as possible when packaging any food to
be frozen.  Seal and label properly.

     Freeze immediately at or below zero degrees Fahrenheit.  At
this temperature, whole, uncooked chickens and turkeys should be
used within 12 months.  Cut-up chickens should be used within six
to nine months.  Whole, uncooked ducks and geese maintain high
quality up to six months.  Cooked poultry pieces or slices
covered with broth or gravy keep well up to six months.  If not
covered with broth or gravy, cooked pieces or slices should be
used within one month.  Use fried chicken within four months.
-End-
-Title-
Freezing Baked Goods
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Freezing Baked Goods

     Most cakes and cupcakes can be frozen successfully.  Butter,
sponge, angel, pound, and chiffon cakes freeze especially well.
Fruit cakes freeze better after they have been aged.  Bake the
cake as usual, but use pure vanilla and fresh spices to avoid
development of off-flavors.  Cool completely.  Cakes are better
frozen without icing but if you must frost a cake, choose a
butter and confectioners' sugar icing.  Cooked icings do not
freeze well.  Cakes without icing can be frozen after packaging
them properly.  Iced cakes should be frozen first and then
properly wrapped for freezer storage.  In general, do not store
iced or uniced cakes longer than four months.  Fruit cakes are an
exception and can be stored up to 12 months.  Do not freeze cake
batters.  From the standpoint of time, work and quality of the
finished product, cakes baked before freezing are more practical.

     Almost all types of cookies freeze well.  After baking, put
cooled cookies in layers in a freezer container with paper
between each layer.  Wrap and seal properly, label, and freeze.
Some cookie doughs and batters can be frozen, but the cookies may
not rise as much when baked due to changes caused by the freezing
and thawing process.  Dough and batter have to be thawed before
using, so little time is saved by freezing.  One exception to
this is the "roll-and-slice" type cookie dough which can be
frozen and wrapped in roll form.  Most baked cookies can be
stored up to six months; cookie dough up to four months.

     Fresh baked fruit or nut breads, muffins, biscuits, and
yeast breads and rolls freeze well.  Use fresh spices when
preparing them.  Thoroughly cool all baked goods before wrapping,
sealing, labeling, and freezing.  Unbaked bread dough can be
frozen in loaves.  Use double the amount of yeast in preparation.
Defrosting will take about four hours.  Allow loaves to rise
before baking.  Storage time varies greatly among bread-type
items which are baked before freezing.  If stored at or below
zero degrees Fahrenheit (-18 degrees Celsius), biscuits should be
used within two months; coffee cakes, fruit and nut breads within
four months; muffins and yeast breads within six months.  Unbaked
yeast dough for bread or rolls is best if used with two weeks.
-End-
-Title-
Thawing Frozen Foods Safely
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                   Thawing Frozen Foods Safely

     Meat, fish, poultry, combination main dishes, cream sauces,
meringues, cream pies and foods that contain these ingredients
may cause food poisoning if they are thawed at room temperature.

     The outer edges of foods thaw quickly which allows any
bacteria present to grow on the product even though the central
part of the food may still be thawing.  It only takes two to
three hours of bacterial growth to make these foods capable of
causing illness.

     Thawing frozen products safely isn't difficult if you follow
one of the recommended methods.  Wrapped foods may be thawed
completely in the refrigerator, which is the preferred method.
This keeps the temperature always below 45 degrees.  The amount
of thawing time needed will vary with the food and the size of
the package.  An alternative is to thaw the food in a water-tight
package under cold running water or completely immersed in cold
water.  But you must change the water often to maintain a cold
temperature.  Always cook food promptly after it's thawed.

     Food can be cooked while it's frozen.  However, you'll need
to cook the food approximately one-and-one-half times longer than
if you were cooking the same food already thawed.  For example,
if a fresh or thawed roast needs two hours to cook, a frozen
roast the same size may need as much as three hours to cook.

     There are some foods which can be thawed safely at room
temperature.  These include frozen breads, cookies, cakes, fruits
and vegetables without sauce.

     The key to thawing frozen foods safely is to allow the food
to get warm enough to thaw and still be cool enough to slow down
germ growth, particularly on the surface of meat.

-End-
-Title-
Selecting Containers for Freezing
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                Selecting Containers for Freezing

     Retaining quality in frozen foods depends on protection
against exposure to air and moisture which can result in a loss
of vitamins, a change in appearance, and the development of off-
flavors.  Frozen foods can also dry out or become "freezer
burned" if improperly packaged.  These undesirable changes in
frozen foods can be prevented or minimized by using proper
freezer containers.

     A good freezer container should be moisture-vapor-proof or
at least moisture-vapor-resistant.  The container should not give
off a flavor of its own, and it should be clean and durable.  It
should be easy to seal, and the seal itself must be moisture-
vapor-proof or resistant.  It is not always easy to recognize
whether a container is suitable for freezer use; therefore,
always read manufacturers' labels whenever possible.

     Freezer containers can be divided into two general groups--
rigid and non-rigid.  Rigid containers hold their shape and can
be made of different materials.

     Some plastic containers are specially manufactured for
freezer use.  They are round or rectangular with straight or
tapering sides and closely fitting lids.

     Glass jars, preferably those with wide mouths, tapering
sides, and screw-on lids, can be used.  Remember that glass
breaks easily.  Also, be sure to leave room for expansion when
packing food.

     Some casserole dishes with covers can be sealed with freezer
tape.  Alternately, the entire dish can be properly wrapped.

     Aluminum foil trays, dishes, and pans hold certain food
items well but will need to be properly wrapped.

     The second group of containers are non-rigid types.  These,
too, must be moisture-vapor-proof or resistant and are made of a
variety of materials.

     Freezer paper is heavy waxed or plastic-laminated paper
which is frequently used for packaging meats.

     Heavy-weight aluminum foil can be used, but protect the foil
from tears and punctures by another wrap of freezer paper.

     Freezer weight plastic bags are useful for many frozen
foods.  These include the regular freezer bags, the plastic bag-
in-a-box, and the special "cook-in" or "boil-in" pouches.

     Polyethylene wraps are heavy plastic and can be used in the
freezer successfully.  These plastics are different from the
lighter, cellophane type wraps for everyday use.  Do not use
these lighter plastic wraps without wrapping another material
around them.
-End-
-Title-
Sack Lunches - Good Safety Tips
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                 Sack Lunches - Good Safety Tips

     You can prevent food poisoning and food-borne illness if you
remember three simple rules -- keep food clean, keep food cold,
keep food hot.  This is true for sack lunches where good sensible
sanitation, personal hygiene, and sound food care will prevent a
bug from being carried in the brown bag lunch.  Following a few
simple, easy precautions will save you and your family a lot of
problems.

     First, cook food thoroughly.  If it's meant to be hot, keep
it hot.  If it's meant to be cold, keep it cold.  Bacteria
thrives best between 45 and 120 degrees.  If bacteria is present
in the food, it will grow rapidly between these temperatures.

     Second, keep the utensils and counter tops you use in
preparing lunches clean.  Clean hands are a must, and thoroughly
washed vacuum or thermos bottles which are rinsed in boiling
water are standard food safety rules.

     If a refrigerator is handy, store sack lunches in it until
you're ready to eat.  If a refrigerator isn't handy, put a
freezer gel or a block of ice in a plastic bottle into your lunch
container to keep food cold.  Certain sandwiches may be frozen;
they thaw in time for lunch.  This will also help to keep the
rest of the lunch cool.

     Cooked meat or poultry products can be used in sandwiches if
you handle them properly.  Make sure fruits and vegetables are
well scrubbed.

     Remember, letting your lunch sit in a warm place, like on
top of a radiator, lets any bacteria present grow.  The longer it
sits, the greater the potential problems.

     Food-borne illness and food poisoning can be prevented.

-End-
-Title-
Food Safety Tips for Handling Leftovers
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
             Food Safety Tips for Handling Leftovers

     Leftovers should be handled carefully to prevent bacteria
from contaminating food which can cause illness.  Food-borne
illness and food poisoning can be prevented.  Food left at room
temperature for more than two hours, including preparation time,
allows germs to grow to dangerous numbers.  These germs seldom
change the taste, odor, or look of the food.  Therefore, you must
be careful all the time.

     Refrigeration is the best way to quickly cool hot leftovers.
Contrary to previous belief, putting hot foods in the
refrigerator won't overheat the refrigerator or cause the food to
spoil.  You should chill or freeze perishable foods quickly and
hold them at 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below.  Food can be spread
in shallow pans so cool air will reach all surfaces quickly and
evenly.  An alternative, which is particularly useful for large
pans of food, is to set the pan of hot food in ice water to speed
the initial cooling process, stirring the food frequently to
speed cooling, and then refrigerating.

     Food should be cooled to reach 75 degrees Fahrenheit in one
hour and 45 degrees Fahrenheit within three hours.

     Leaving food in an oven with the temperature set on low or
warm or on top of a warm hot plate is another safety hazard.
Food must be kept above 140 degrees Fahrenheit, and to be really
safe, above 165 degrees Fahrenheit.  These temperatures are not
achieved in the warm oven or on the stove top.

     When reheating leftovers, cover the food to retain moisture.
Reheat so all the food is above 165 degrees Fahrenheit.  Bring
soups, gravies, and sauces to a full boil.

     In the winter months, you can leave food on the back porch
to thaw or cool.  This is a safe practice if the food is well
covered and the porch or outside temperature is less than 40
degrees Fahrenheit.  The temperature must never get above 40
degrees at any time.

     Remember the three key rules to food safety -- keep hot
foods hot, keep cold foods cold, and keep food clean.  These
rules apply to handling leftovers.  When you couple these
suggestions with good sense, you'll protect your family from food
poisoning.


-End-
-Title-
Tips on Storing Commercially Canned Foods
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
            Tips on Storing Commercially Canned Foods

     To minimize nutrient and quality loss, store commercially
canned foods in a clean, cool, dark, dry place.  For best flavor,
texture, and color, use these canned foods within six to twelve
months.

     Keep in mind, however, that commercially canned foods may be
kept indefinitely.  It's true that long storage may have some
effect on quality and nutritive value, but commercially canned
foods should still be safe to eat; that is, if there are no signs
of spoilage.

     There are several reasons why short storage in a cool, dry,
dark place is desirable.

     The primary nutrients that are lost during prolonged storage
are vitamin C and thiamin.  These losses are worth considering
since fruits and vegetables are our main sources of vitamin C.
Research has shown that losses of vitamin C and thiamin in canned
foods will be insignificant over a year's time if storage is at
45 degrees Fahrenheit in a dry, dark place.  If canned goods are
stored at 65 degrees, you can expect a five to fifteen percent
vitamin loss.  But if stored at 85 degrees, you can expect to
lose one-third or more of the vitamin content.

     If stored canned foods are where they might freeze, be sure
to insulate the cans by wrapping them with blankets, cardboard,
or newspapers.  Unless the ends of the cans bulge and break the
seal or the jars break, freezing won't cause canned food to
spoil.  But canned foods that have been frozen won't be the same
quality you'd expect from properly stored foods.

     Storage in a dark area is only necessary for products canned
in glass jars.  For such foods, dark storage will help keep light
foods from darkening and dark foods from bleaching out.

     A dry storage area is important as dampness can cause cans
to rust which results in pinholing.  These are small holes that
break the vacuum seal and eventually allow spoilage.

     If storage conditions are less than ideal, careful rotation
of canned foods is especially important.  One way to be sure the
oldest can is used first is to mark all cans and packages with
the date purchased before putting them on the shelves.  It's also
important to check canned food jars in storage periodically for
any visible signs of spoilage.

     It's easy to determine if food in the can has spoiled.  Look
for cans with bulged ends or signs of leakage.  If the cans
haven't been stored in a dry place, some rusting may occur after
a period of time.  Discard any can that has rust near any of its
seams.

     If you buy dented cans to save a few cents, be sure to
inspect them for leakage, bulging ends, and rusting.  Never buy
foods in cans that are so badly dented they can't be stacked or
opened with a can opener.

-End-
-Title-
Cooking Without Salt
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Cooking Without Salt

     Instead of seasoning your food with salt, bring out the
natural flavors of food by venturing into the exciting world of
herbal cooking.

     Use fresh herbs when possible, especially in salads.

     Use lemon juice, wine, and fresh ground pepper to accent
natural flavors.

     Combine three herbs or less in one dish.

     Orange juice serves as an excellent base for meat marinades.

     Some ideas:

     For poultry, try garlic, mushrooms, cranberries, orange
slices, wine, curry, paprika, parsley, sage, onion.

     For fish, try bay leaf, dry mustard, tomato, lemon, green
pepper, paprika.

     For beef, try bay leaf, marjoram, onion, fresh mushrooms,
dry mustard, green pepper, ginger.

     For pork, try applesauce, apples, garlic, onion, sage.

     Experiment with different spices and you'll see just how
delicious your meals with taste -- even without salt.

-End-
-Title-
So You Want to Cut Down on Salt . . .
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
              So You Want to Cut Down on Salt . . .

     A good place to start is with canned and convenience foods
which tend to be much higher in sodium than fresh or home-cooked
foods.

     Next, put a padlock on the salt shaker.  More than half of
the salt in the diet is added to food during preparation or at
the table.

     If you get brave and decide to throw the salt shaker away,
replace it with an HERB shaker.

     Combine:

          2 teaspoons thyme
          1 1/2 teaspoons sage
          2 teaspoons rosemary
          2 1/2 teaspoons marjoram
          2 1/2 teaspoons savory

     Shake this mixture on meats, vegetables, casseroles, and
other foods to give them saltless appeal!
-End-
-Title-
Too Much Sugar - Here's What To Do
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
               Too Much Sugar - Here's What To Do

     Are we consuming too much sugar?  Estimates indicate that
Americans eat an average of 130 pounds of sugars and sweeteners a
year.  Although this has been the trend for about 50 years, the
source of sugar intake has changed.  In the past, most sugar was
added in home preparation of baked goods, canned fruits, jams,
jellies, candies, ice cream, and in beverages, cereals, and
desserts.  In the 1980s about 70 percent of sugar intake is
already in prepared foods, and only some 30 percent is added at
home or in restaurants.

     Cutting back on sugar -- meal time, snack time, or special
celebrations -- all food events need to be considered when
cutting back on sugar.

     Celebrate special events or holidays in ways that do not
require sweets.  Cut down on buying sweets or making gooey, rich
desserts.

     Look for recipes that use spices for flavoring instead of
sugar.  Oregano, basil, and thyme are used in many tomato or
barbecue sauces.  Cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves are useful to help
reduce the amount of sugar in desserts such as custards,
cobblers, or stewed fruit.

     Use less sugar to sweeten coffee, tea, cereal, and fruit
and/or cut down the use of sweets such as colas.

     Buy fruit packed in its own juice or light syrup instead of
heavy syrup.

-End-
-Title-
Talking Turkey
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                         Talking Turkey

     We usually associate turkey with Thanksgiving, even though
it's a good menu item year-round.

     To feed 16 to 20 people, an eight to ten pound turkey is
needed.  A 14 to 18 pound turkey will feed 28 to 36 people.  If
you're purchasing a boneless turkey roast, you'll need three
ounces of cooked meat per person.  The age of the bird is the
determining factor in how tender it is; young turkeys are more
tender than older ones.

     Thawing a frozen turkey is best done in the refrigerator.  A
large, whole bird will take two to three days to thaw; a small,
whole one will thaw in one to two days.  Turkeys sealed in
watertight wrappers can be thawed in cold water to shorten
thawing time.  Change the water often, and allow two to six
hours, depending on the size of the bird.

     The turkey should be cooked promptly after thawing, and it
should be completely cooked at one time.  Don't partially cook it
early and finish it later, and don't leave it in the oven at
night at a very low temperature.  In both of these cases, the
turkey spends too much time at temperatures that promote
bacterial growth.  Also, do not stuff the turkey until time to
roast it; stuffing is a great place for bacteria to grow.

     Roast the turkey according to the directions appropriate for
the method you select -- covered, uncovered, on the grill, etc.
Using a meat thermometer is a good way to test for doneness; 185
degrees Fahrenheit is the temperature needed to insure the turkey
is done.  The drumstick and thigh joints will also move easily
when cooking is completed.

-End-
-Title-
Selecting a Water Bath Canner
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Selecting a Water Bath Canner

     A boiling water bath canner is essential for canning acid
foods like fruits, tomatoes, pickled beets, and pickles.  Also,
jams and other preserves that will be sealed with the two-piece
metal lids should be processed in the boiling water bath canner.

     Boiling water bath canners are available on the market in
several sizes.  Any large metal container may be used as a
boiling water bath canner if its sides are at least two inches
higher than the top of the jars to be processed.  This is needed
to allow space for an inch of water over the top of the jars plus
an inch or more of boiling space.

     The container must also have a tight fitting cover and a
metal or wooden rack to hold the jars off the bottom of the
kettle.  The tight fitting cover helps bring water to a rolling
boil and keep it at a gentle boil during processing.  The metal
or wooden rack helps allow the water to circulate freely around
the jars and will also prevent breakage of the jars.

     A canner with a corrugated or ridged bottom is better on a
gas burner because the heating surface is increased.  However, a
canner with a smooth flat bottom is better for an electric burner
and is essential if a ceramic-type range is used.  If a ridged
bottom canner is used on an electric burner, make sure the canner
does not lop over and rest on the porcelain part of the range
top, thus cutting off air circulation to the burner.  Also, to
make sure that all jars will be adequately processed, the
diameter of the canner should be no more than two inches larger
than the burner on which it's used.

-End-
-Title-
Selecting Canning Jars
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Selecting Canning Jars

     The Cooperative Extension Service recommends that you use
standard glass canning jars in half-pint, pint, and quart sizes.
These jars have been designed to last for several canning
seasons.

     We don't recommend using the two-quart or half-gallon jars
because the processing time required to reach the temperature
needed in the center would be so long that the product would be
overprocessed on the outer edges.  In addition, the half-gallon
containers may be too tall to allow the steam or water in the
canner to circulate properly.

     Other jars, such as peanut butter or mayonnaise jars, are
not recommended for home canning.  Most of these specialty jars
are thinner than the standard glass canning jars.  They may not
withstand the higher temperature of the pressure canner.

     Here's another problem.  The lids that are made for standard
glass canning jars may not seal if you try to use them on
commercial specialty jars.

     Before you select jars for canning, examine the sealing edge
of each jar for nicks, cracks, or sharp edges that would prevent
a seal.  Throw away any jars that aren't perfect.

     Home canning jars that contained spoiled food can be reused.
However, they should be examined very carefully for defects
first.  If acceptable, sterilize them before reusing.
-End-
-Title-
Discoloration of Jar Lids
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                    Discoloration of Jar Lids

     The underside of metal lids sometimes become discolored
because natural compounds in various foods corrode the metal and
make brown or black deposits on the lid.  This does not mean the
food is unsafe to eat.

     However, any time you open a jar of home or commercially
canned food, it's a good idea to check for signs of spoiling.
Spurting liquid, gas bubbles, soft-mushy-slimy or moldy food,
leaking jars, bulging caps, and an unnatural odor or color are
all signs of spoiled food.  When cooking, additional signs of
spoiled food are indicated when the liquid foams or if the food
has an unnatural odor.
-End-
-Title-
White Sediment in Canned Foods
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                 White Sediment in Canned Foods

     A white or yellow sediment or granular residue in the bottom
of jars of canned vegetables may or may not mean spoilage.

     Sometimes small yellow specks or crystal deposits appear on
green vegetables several weeks or months after canning.  When the
jar is vigorously shaken or the contents heated, the deposits
dissolve and disappear.  There is no bad odor or unusual flavor
and the green color in green vegetables is not affected.  Such
deposits are harmless and are thought to be due to soil and
climate conditions during growth.

     White sediment may be caused by starch from the food or
minerals in the water.  If either of these two items caused the
sediment, the food is probably safe to eat.

     But if the white sediment is accompanied by a cloudy liquid,
be especially cautious.  This might be a sign of spoilage.

     Be sure to check all home or commercially canned foods
before you eat them.  Signs of spoilage are spurting liquid, gas
bubbles, mush or moldy food, leaking jars, bulging caps and an
unnatural odor or color.

     When cooking foods, additional signs of spoilage are liquids
that foam or have an unnatural odor.  If any such signs are
evident, discard the food.

-End-
-Title-
Cloudy Canning Liquid
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Cloudy Canning Liquid

     If canned foods have a large amount of cloudy liquid around
them, be cautious.  Cloudiness is often a sign of spoilage.

     Check the food for a disagreeable odor.  If the food smells
bad, throw it away.  If the food smells all right, boil it for 15
to 20 minutes before tasting it.  If it foams or doesn't smell
normal after heating, toss it out.

     There are other things that can cause cloudiness besides
food spoilage.  They are:

     The starch content in too mature beans and peas usually
causes cloudiness.

     Uneven grading can result in cloudiness.  Small tender peas
cook to pieces by the time older ones are heated through.

     Minerals in hard water may cause cloudiness.

     In kraut or fermented dill pickles, fermentation causes
cloudiness.  It's normal and isn't harmful.

     Again, check all canned foods before serving them to your
family.  If you see signs of spoilage, discard the food.

-End-
-Title-
Darkening of Food Near the Top of Jars
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
             Darkening of Food Near the Top of Jars

     Darkening of food at the top of jars may be caused by
oxidation--that's air left in the jar.  Or it may be caused by
not enough heating or processing to destroy enzymes.  Another
reason may be that the liquid or syrup in the jar didn't cover
the food because not enough liquid was put into the jars before
processing or the liquid was lost during processing.

     To prevent food at the top of the jar from darkening, remove
all air bubbles before sealing the jars.  Do this by gently
running a narrow rubber spatula or plastic knife between the jar
and the food product.  Also, cover food with liquid before you
cap the jar.  Leave the recommended amount of head space and use
recommended canning practices and procedures.

     Darkened food at the top of the jar doesn't always mean the
food is unsafe to eat.  It is wise, however, to check all home or
commercially canned foods for signs of spoilage.



-End-
-Title-
Canning with Sweeteners Other Than Sugar
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
            Canning with Sweeteners Other Than Sugar

     Sugar isn't necessary to prevent spoilage of correctly
processed fruits.  Sugar is added to help fruit keep its texture,
flavor, and color.

     Several sweeteners can be substituted for all or part of the
sugar.  Juice may be substituted for as much of the sugar syrup
as you like.  You may use commercially prepared juice or make
your own from fully ripe, juicy fruit.  To make your own juice,
crush the ripe fruit in a pan and bring it to a simmer over low
heat for several minutes, stirring gently.  Finally, strain the
hot pulp through a jelly bag or cheese cloth.

     Semi-refined raw sugar may be substituted for white sugar to
taste, but its sweetening power is different than that of white
sugar.  Also, raw sugar darkens the fruit and tends to change its
flavor.  Because of this, raw sugar is best used only with fruits
that have a strong flavor and dark juice.

     Mild flavored honey and light corn syrup may be used to
replace as much as half of the white sugar called for in your
canning syrup.

     Honey is one-fourth sweeter than granulated sugar, cup per
cup.  Therefore, somewhat less may be needed.  Honey will also
add flavor and color to the fruit, depending on what type of
honey is used.  Since honey may darken during storage, it's best
to use fresh honey.

     Maple syrup can be used to replace up to one-fourth of the
sugar called for, but it will affect the natural flavor and color
of the fruit.

     It's best not to use molasses, sorghum, dark corn syrup or
other strong flavored syrups when canning fruit.  These
sweeteners darken the fruit and overpower the fruit flavor.

     Non-nutritive sweeteners like saccharin may be used to
sweeten canning syrups.  It's usually recommended that such
sweeteners be added when the fruit is served rather than when
it's canned.  This reduces problems with a bitter or metallic
aftertaste.

     Most of the sugar substitutes mentioned here will cost more
per cup than granulated sugar.  Only the non-nutritive sweetener
and fruit juices will produce a canning syrup lower in calories
than a medium syrup made with granulated sugar.  Replacing one-
third of the sugar in a medium syrup recipe with an equal amount
of honey will add about 30 calories and one percent of the U. S.
Recommended Daily Allowance of iron, riboflavin, vitamin C, and
niacin per pint of fruit.  Replacing one-third of the sugar with
corn syrup will add 20 calories but will also add eight percent
of the U. S. Recommended Daily Allowance for iron and two percent
of the U. S. Recommended Daily Allowances for calcium per pint.

     Although substituting molasses or sorghum for part of the
sugar syrup would add somewhat larger amounts of calcium, iron,
and B vitamins per jar, this procedure isn't recommended because
the flavor and color of the fruit would change so strongly.

     If you have never used some of these sweeteners before,
experiment with small batches to check for acceptability before
making large quantities.

-End-
-Title-
Canning Green Beans
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Canning Green Beans

     Always process green beans in a pressure canner for the time
recommended in a modern reference.

     Green beans may be packed raw or hot into jars.  Here are
the directions for using the raw pack method.

     First, select a variety of beans that cans well.  Then
harvest the pods when they are tender and snap easily.  If
possible, can them on the same day they are picked.

     Prepare the canning jars by washing them in hot, sudsy water
and rinsing well.  Next, prepare the lids following the
manufacturer's instructions.

     Wash the beans well in several changes of water.  Trim or
break the ends from the beans and cut or break the beans into
one-inch pieces.  Next, place the raw beans into the clean, hot
canning jars.  Pack tightly, leaving a half-inch space at the top
of each jar.

     Add one teaspoon canning salt to each quart and one-half
teaspoon to each pint jar.  Cover the beans with boiling water to
one-half inch from the top.  Work out any air bubbles with a
thin, narrow spatula or plastic knife.  Add more liquid if needed
to allow one-half inch space at tops of jars.

     Wipe the top sealing edge of the jars with a clean, damp
cloth.  Place the lids on the jars as the manufacturer directs.

     Process the jars in a steam pressure canner at 10 pounds
pressure.  Keep the pressure constant at the desired pounds by
regulating the heat.  The weight should jiggle two to three times
a minute during processing.

     When the processing time is up, remove the canner from the
heat and let the pressure return to zero.  This will take about
30 minutes.  When the pressure reaches zero, wait three more
minutes and then slowly open the petcock to let any remaining
steam escape.  Unfasten the lid and carefully remove it, lifting
it away from you so the steam does not hit your face.  Take the
jars from the canner without touching the lids or screw bands.
Place the jars right side up on a towel or a rack away from
drafts to cool for 12 to 24 hours.

     The next day check the seals and remove the screw bands.
Wipe the jars clean and label with the name of the product, the
processing method and date, and store the jars in a clean, cool,
dark place.




-End-
-Title-
Cloudy Pickle Causes
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Cloudy Pickle Causes

     A cloudy appearance or a white sediment on pickles may
indicate the use of table salt rather than pickling salt.  Table
salt contains an anti-caking ingredient.  It could also be that
yeasts have developed and settled to the bottom of the jar.  Or
it may be the result of a normal reaction during fermentation
caused by the bacteria which produce fermentation.

     The presence of a small amount of white sediment is normal
in a jar of firm pickles.  If the pickles are soft, however,
they're spoiled so don't use them.






-End-
-Title-
Using Dried Dill or Dill Seeds in Pickles
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
            Using Dried Dill or Dill Seeds in Pickles

     When making pickles, you may substitute dried dill or dill
seeds for fresh dill.  Here's how.

     Three heads of fresh dill equal three dried dill plants or
one tablespoon dill seed.

     The question is often asked, "What is a head of dill?"  A
head of dill is the complete top or flowering part of one stem.

     People enjoy different amounts of the flavor of dill in
pickles.  You may wish to start with about three heads of fresh
dill to one quart jar of pickles.
-End-
-Title-
Substitutions for Flour
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Substitutions for Flour

     All-purpose flour is a blend of soft and hard wheat flours.
It comes bleached and unbleached.  They may be used
interchangeably.

     Cake flour is made of soft wheats.  Products made with cake
flour have a finer, less firm texture than those made with all-
purpose flour.  Although results will differ somewhat, you may
substitute seven-eighths cup of all-purpose for one cup cake
flour.

     Pastry flour is a soft, finely milled, low-gluten flour,
primarily used for quick breads and pastries.  Again, substitute
seven-eighths cup all-purpose flour for each cup of pastry flour.

     Bread flour is not always available, but is highly desirable
for bread making because it makes the dough more elastic.
Remember to use equal proportions of bread and all-purpose flour.

     Self-rising flour contains the right amount of leavens for
baking at sea level.  If your recipe calls for self-rising flour,
one cup is the equivalent of one cup all-purpose flour plus one
and one-half teaspoons baking powder and one-fourth teaspoon
salt.

     Whole wheat flours retain many of the vitamins, minerals,
salts, fats, and other unknown compounds lost during the refining
of white flours.  To make up for some of these losses, most all-
purpose white flours are enriched with iron, thiamin, riboflavin,
and niacin.  To substitute whole wheat flour for all-purpose
white flour, use one cup minus one tablespoon whole wheat flour
for each cup of white flour.  If this results in a product that
is too heavy, try using half whole wheat and half white flour.
Two other alterations that improve the nutritional contribution
of the flour in your products are one-eighth cup soy flour or
wheat germ and seven-eighths cup all-purpose flour.

     If you're allergic to wheat flours, you may substitute the
following for one cup all-purpose flour:  one-half cup barley
flour; seven-eighths to one cup cornmeal; five-eighths cup potato
flour; seven-eighths cup rice flour; one and one-third cups
rolled oats; one and one-fourth cups rye flour; or thirteen-
sixteenths cup gluten flour.  Another substitute is one-half cup
cornstarch plus one-half cup rye, potato, or rice flour.  This
mixture can be sifted together several times and stored for later
use.  Because of its lower gluten content, mix it with two
tablespoons of baking powder per cup of flour when making quick
breads.

     If you are using the flour as a thickener, you may
substitute one of the following for one tablespoon of white all-
purpose flour:  one-half tablespoon of corn, potato, or rice
starch, one-half tablespoon of arrowroot; one tablespoon quick-
cooking tapioca; one tablespoon waxy rice or corn flour; or two
tablespoons granular cereal; or one egg.

-End-
-Title-
Selecting and Using Canning Jar Lids
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
              Selecting and Using Canning Jar Lids

     When you're buying canning supplies, keep in mind that the
two-piece metal lid is the kind most often recommended for home
canning.  This self-sealing lid offers the greatest assurance of
obtaining good seals and preventing spoilage by re-contamination.

     The flat metal lid with a sealing compound under the outer
edge is held in place by a metal screw band.  This seals at the
top edge of the jar.

     Before using the two-piece lids, check the manufacturer's
instructions for lid preparation.  Wipe the jar rims clean after
you've packed the jars with the food.

     Then place the clean, hot metal lid, with the sealing side
down, on top of the jar.  Screw the band on tightly, following
the manufacturer's instructions.

     Heat process the jars following up-to-date processing
procedures such as those given in publications available from
your local Extension office.

     After canning, remove the jars from the canner and cool them
on a rack or folded towel.  However, don't retighten the metal
screw bands as this may interfere with the self-sealing process.

     After 12 to 24 hours of cooling, remove the metal screw
bands to avoid rusting.  Clean and dry them thoroughly and store
them in a dry place.

     If the screw bands are in good condition, they can be
reused.  However, the metal lids with the sealing compound can be
used only once.  When you purchase new metal lids, try to select
the same brand of lids as screw bands that you'll be using.  This
will give you greater compatibility between bands and lids.
Also, check the new metal lids carefully before using them to
make sure there aren't any gaps in the sealing compound around
the edge.

     A variation of the two-piece metal self-sealing lid is a one
piece self-sealing lid.  Some brands advertise that they can be
reused and others that they may be used only once.

-End-
-Title-
Making Syrups for Canning
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                    Making Syrups for Canning

     For canning, you'll probably use one to one and one-half
cups of syrup or boiling water for each quart of fruit.

     But you do have the option of how sweet the syrup will be.
Here are recipes for extra thin, thin, medium, and heavy syrups.

     For an extra thin syrup, use four cups of water or juice to
one and one-half cups of sugar.  This will yield four and one-
half cups of syrup with 258 calories per cup of syrup.

     For a thin syrup, use four cups of water or juice to two
cups of sugar.  This will yield five cups of syrup with 307
calories per cup.

     For a medium syrup, use four cups of water or juice to three
cups of sugar.  This will yield five and one-half cups syrup with
420 calories per cup.

     For a heavy syrup, use four cups of water or juice to four
and three-fourths cups sugar.  This will yield six and one-half
cups syrup with 562 calories per cup.

     If you wish, you may use light corn syrup or mild-flavored
honey to replace as much as half the sugar called for in your
recipe.  But don't use brown sugar, molasses, or other strong-
flavored syrups.  Not only will their flavor overpower the fruit
flavor, they could cause the canned fruit to turn dark.

     To make the syrup, mix the sugar and water or juice together
and heat until the sugar is dissolved.  Skim off the top if
necessary.

     For your convenience, you can make syrup ahead of time and
store it in the refrigerator.  Then, when you're ready to pack
your canning jars, take the syrup out of the refrigerator and
reheat it.


-End-
-Title-
Feeding a Crowd - Food Safety Tips
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
               Feeding a Crowd - Food Safety Tips

     When you're feeding a crowd, be sure you have clean work
surfaces and utensils before you start to prepare food.  Also,
insist that everyone who helps you follows good food preparation
practices.

     Be sure to check and see if you have enough dishes and
utensils for serving.  Disposable dishes are convenient.

     If you prepare foods in advance, don't keep them in the
refrigerator for more than a day or two.  If you have to cook
food several days ahead of your party, freeze it.

     When serving, keep all hot foods hot.  Protein foods, such
as seafood, poultry and cooked meats, should be kept hot using an
electric try or chafing dish.  Serving dishes warmed with small
candles may not provide enough heat to keep your foods at a hot
serving temperature.

     Don't put large quantities of cold foods out at one time.
Serve only what is needed and add more food when needed, so foods
will be kept as cold as possible.  Serve food in containers that
can be stored in the refrigerator and brought directly to the
table.

     After the party is over, don't let huge quantities of
leftovers fill your refrigerator for days.  Plan in advance for
ways that you can use the leftovers, then freeze the rest.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Broccoli
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                        Freezing Broccoli

     To prepare broccoli for freezing, first select tender, dark
green stalks.  Wash, peel and trim stalks.  To remove any insects
in the flower portion, soak the broccoli for 30 minutes in a salt
solution made by mixing four teaspoons of salt per gallon of
water.  Rinse and drain broccoli.  Split lengthwise into pieces
not more than one and one-half inches across.  Then blanch.  If
you choose to steam blanch, heat the broccoli for six minutes.
If you use the boiling water method, blanch for four minutes.
Cool and drain the broccoli.  Then dry pack or tray pack without
head space.

     If you use the dry pack method, place the blanched, cooled,
and drained broccoli into meal-sized freezer bags or containers.
Seal and label the container properly.

     If you choose to tray pack the broccoli, place the blanched,
cooled, and drained stalks in a single layer on shallow trays or
pans.  Place in freezer until firm.  Then remove and quickly fill
labeled bags or containers suitable for freezing.  Seal
containers and place them immediately in the freezer.  Tray
packed foods do not freeze in a block but remain loose so that
the amount needed can be removed and the container or bag
resealed.

     Label packages with the type of vegetable and the freezing
date.  Store all frozen foods at or below zero degrees
Fahrenheit.  At this temperature, most vegetables maintain high
quality for 12 to 18 months.  Longer storage will not make food
unfit to use, but it may lessen the quality.

-End-
-Title-
Substitutes for Sugar in Jams and Jellies
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
            Substitutes for Sugar in Jams and Jellies

     Honey or corn syrup can be used as satisfactory replacements
for part, but not all of, the sugar in jam and jelly recipes.

     In recipes made with added pectin, it is generally
recommended that honey be substituted for no more than two cups
or one-fourth of the sugar in the recipe, whichever is less.  In
recipes made without added pectin, honey can replace up to one-
half the sugar in the recipe.  Use the same amount of honey as
sugar being replaced.  For example, substitute two cups honey for
two cups of sugar.

     Jams and jellies made with honey will have a darker color
and slightly different flavor than those made with sugar only.
For best results, use light colored, mild flavored honey.

     Light corn syrup can be used to replace up to one-half the
sugar in jam and jelly recipes made with powdered pectin.  In
recipes made with liquid pectin, it is generally recommended that
light corn syrup be used to replace no more than two cups of the
sugar in the recipe.  In recipes made without added pectin, light
corn syrup can replace up to one-fourth of the sugar in jellies
and up to one-half the sugar in jams and other preserves.  As
with honey, substitute an equal volume of corn syrup for the
sugar being replaced.

-End-
-Title-
Making Uncooked Freezer Strawberry Jam
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
             Making Uncooked Freezer Strawberry Jam

     Either fresh or frozen strawberries may be used to make
uncooked freezer strawberry jam.  When using frozen strawberries,
you must know how much added sugar is in the frozen berries and
use it as part of the total sugar called for.

     When using fresh strawberries, sort and wash fully ripe
strawberries.  Then drain and remove the caps and stems.

     To make five to six half-pint containers of freezer jam,
you'll need two cups of finely crushed strawberries, four cups
sugar, one package powdered pectin, and one cup water.

     To make the jam, combine the two cups of crushed berries and
four cups of sugar in a large mixing bowl.  Mix well and let
stand 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

     Next, mix the package of pectin with one cup of water and
bring to a boil.  Boil rapidly for one minute, stirring
constantly.  Then remove the pectin mixture from the heat and
pour into the berry-sugar mixture.  Stir the jam constantly for
two to three minutes.  This step is important to help prevent
separation.

     Pour the prepared jam into freezer containers or clean
canning jars, leaving one-half inch at top of jars.  Cover
containers and let stand at room temperature for 24 hours or
until the jam has set.

     Label with the name of the product, date and processing
method and store in the refrigerator or freezer.  Uncooked
freezer strawberry jam will keep in a refrigerator up to three
weeks or in a freezer up to a year.

     Freezer jam should not be stored at room temperature.  At
this temperature, it will ferment or mold in a short time.

-End-
-Title-
Making Jam in a Microwave
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                    Making Jam in a Microwave

     Microwave ovens can be used to make jams and jellies with or
without added pectin.  The following recipe makes two cups of jam
and is made without added pectin.  The recipe calls for two cups
of diced or crushed fruit, one and one-half cups sugar, one-half
teaspoon butter or margarine, and one to two tablespoons lemon
juice, depending on the amount of acid in the fruit.  For
raspberry, plum, peach or nectarine jam, use one tablespoon lemon
juice.  For strawberry jam, use one and one-half tablespoons
lemon juice.  For apricot jam, use two tablespoons lemon juice.

     Wash, sort, pit, peel as necessary, and chop or crush two
cups of raspberries, plums, peaches, nectarines, strawberries, or
apricots.  Place the prepared fruit into a two and one-half to
three quart ceramic or glass container.

     Add one and one-half cups sugar, one-half teaspoon butter or
margarine, and one to two tablespoons lemon juice.  Again, for
raspberries, plums, peaches, or nectarines use one tablespoon
lemon juice.  Use one and one-half tablespoons lemon juice for
strawberries and two tablespoons lemon juice for apricots.

     Allow the mixture to stand about 30 minutes or until juices
begin to form.  If necessary, crush the fruit with a potato
masher or fork to help mix the sugar with the fruit.

     Next, microwave the mixture, uncovered, on high power for 13
minutes.  Stir as soon as the mixture starts to boil and every
two to three minutes thereafter.

     At the end of 13 minutes, spoon one tablespoon jam into a
custard cup and cool in the freezer for five to seven minutes;
then test for consistency.

     If the jam is not as thick as desired, reheat it to boiling,
boil two minutes, and repeat the freezer test.

     If it is the right consistency, pour immediately into
freezer containers or clean canning jars, leaving one-half inch
space at the tops of containers.

     Label with the name of the product, date and processing
method, and store in the refrigerator or freezer.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Sandwiches
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Freezing Sandwiches

     You may find it's convenient to make sandwiches ahead of
time for work or school lunches, picnics, or parties where you
want to serve small sandwiches or canapes.  Frozen sandwiches are
a good way to use leftover meat and other foods.  An alternate
time saver is to freeze just a filling and make the sandwiches at
a later date.  However, you'll have greater success with freezing
sandwiches and fillings if you follow a few hints.

     Avoid the following fillings which can cause problems when
they're frozen:

     Whites of hard-cooked eggs become tough when frozen.  Fruit
jellies, mayonnaise, and salad dressing will make bread soggy.
Raw vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, cucumber, etc., lose their
appetizing crispness.  These vegetables can be added just before
serving.

     Sandwiches with the following fillings can be frozen
successfully:

     Ground meats, poultry, and fish; cream cheese and cheddar-
type cheese; cooked, sieved egg yolk.  Other fillings that freeze
well are peanut butter and other nut pastes, dried fruits,
olives, and pickles.

     When you make the sandwiches, work quickly so the bread
doesn't dry out.

     Spread the inside of each slide of bread with softened
margarine or butter to keep the bread from absorbing the filling.

     After filling the sandwiches, if they are open-faced, freeze
them on cookie sheets before wrapping them.  Store the sandwiches
with a double piece of freezer paper between each layer.  For
regular sandwiches, package them as they'll be used, one or two
to a package.  Wrap them properly for freezer storage.

     Proper packaging materials are those that are moisture/vapor
proof or moisture/vapor resistant.  These include heavy foil,
heavy plastic and freezer weight paper which is either waxed or
plastic coated.  Rigid plastic freezer containers are also
suitable and may keep the sandwiches from being crushed.
Sandwich fillings can be frozen by themselves in suitable sealed
containers.

     Sandwiches can be stored three to four weeks.  Fillings can
be stored for three months.

-End-
-Title-
Difference Between Honey and Sugar
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
               Difference Between Honey and Sugar

     Both honey and sugar should be regarded as energy foods
although they differ in the types of sugars they contain.

     Honey contains 40 percent fructose, 34 percent glucose, 2
percent sucrose, 2 percent other sugars, 17 percent water, and
less than 1 percent minerals.

     Sugar contains 100 percent sucrose and less than 1 percent
water.

     Sucrose splits into glucose and fructose when digested.
Fructose is sweeter than glucose, so honey is slightly sweeter
than sugar.

     Honey is also higher in calories measure per measure.  Sugar
is 720 calories per cup; honey is 1,030 calories per cup.

     One cup of honey has the following percentages of the U. S.
Recommended Daily Allowances:  2 percent protein and calcium, 10
percent iron, 8 percent riboflavin, and 6 percent niacin and
vitamin C.  These percentages are low enough that honey should
not be considered a good source of these nutrients.

     Honey has a very distinct flavor.  The flavor and color of
honey depends on the type of flowers the bees gathered their
nectar from.

     To substitute honey for sugar in recipes, use the same
amount but decrease the liquid in the recipe by one-fourth cup
for each cup of honey used.  When making plain cake, it is best
to substitute only one-third to one-half of the sugar so the
texture does not change too much.  Also for baked goods, add one-
fourth teaspoon of baking soda to counteract the acids in honey.
When making jellies without pectin, replace only one-half of the
sugar called for with honey.

     Honey is not a "safe" sugar for diabetics.  Although
fructose does not require insulin to break down, the glucose and
sucrose does.  Also, some of the fructose found in honey is
converted to glucose in the liver.  Also, it is not recommended
that honey be used in infant formulas.
-End-
-Title-
Aucuba
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Aucuba

     Aucuba is a member of the dogwood family.  This native plant
of Japan is valued for its glossy green leaves and bright red
berries.  It is dioecious; plant both sexes to ensure fruit.

     A coarse-textured, broadleaf evergreen, it has a moderate
growth rate and reaches a height of seven feet with a spread of
up to five feet.  Aucuba has dense, dark green foliage.

     It grows best when it's protected from full sun, heat and
high winds.  When the aucuba is exposed to these adverse
conditions, the leaves turn brown to black.  Aucuba is tolerant
of most insect pests and requires little maintenance when it's
grown in moderately acid, high-organic soil.  Fungus may infest
the leaves, however, and cause the stems to turn black.  You can
control fungus diseases with a copper spray.

     When you use aucuba around a building, plant it at least
three or four feet away from the foundation.  If you want
berries, be sure to plant both male and female.

     The most popular variety of aucuba is called "Gold Dust."
The name comes from its yellow-green variegated leaves.  Another
variety called "Nana" is a dwarf form that grows to about two
feet in height.
-End-
-Title-
Problems with Magnolias
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Problems with Magnolias

     Southern magnolias have heavy leaf drop, some serious insect
problems and are sensitive to injuries.

     Before planting a southern magnolia, be sure heavy leaf drop
doesn't bother you.  Leaves will fall off throughout the year,
but especially in the spring and fall.  Spring is the season for
leaves on evergreens, such as the magnolia, to turn yellow and
drop off.

     Leafspot also causes leaves to fall off.  Spots are usually
caused by either algae or fungus, and you can treat it by
spraying with a fungicide at the proper time.

     Magnolias have two serious insect problems -- scale insects
and leaf miners.  Scale insects look like miniature seashells and
feed on young twigs. If uncontrolled, they can weaken the tree.
Leaf miners feed on the inside of the leaf tissue.  As the name
implies, they mine out the inside of the leaves.  There is no
control at present for leaf miners.

     The trees are also vulnerable to diseases that enter through
mechanical injuries.  So, be careful not to skin the trunk with
the lawn mower.

     Magnolias are also sensitive to placing soil on its roots.
If you cover the roots of a magnolia with too much soil, the tree
will die.  The trees are also subject to root rot, so you should
plant the tree on natural ridges or gently sloping ridges.

     They prefer rich, slightly acidic soils.

     Southern magnolias are beautiful trees, but they do have
some problems.
-End-
-Title-
Problems with Pines
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Problems with Pines

     Pines are one of the favorite trees to plant around homes.
But, if you're planning to plant pines in your yard, you should
know some of the problems you might have.

     Pines planted around homes can develop several problems.

     One of the most common, and the most serious, is fusiform
rust.  This disease causes weak places in the trunk, making the
tree more likely to break in windstorms.  Fusiform swellings look
like indentations on the trunk.  Sometimes a boring insect gets
in this indentation.  As it bores, pine pitch, a sticky, white
material, oozes out around the swelling.  Usually it's best to
remove trees with fusiform rust.

     Most people get upset when their pine's needles turn yellow
or orange and begin dropping off.  In the fall, the dropping of
interior needles is natural.  Don't be alarmed about natural
needle drop during the fall; but, if yellowing occurs, have the
tree checked by an expert.

     Pines also have several insect problems.  The most serious
is the bark beetle.  The beetle that attacks most pines in
landscapes is the IPS beetle.  It usually invades weakened trees
or those stressed by drought.  You'll notice small holes in the
trunk, a fine sawdust, and pine pitch may ooze out and harden
into what looks like popcorn.  Finally your tree will turn orange
and brown.  By the time the tree has turned completely, the
insects may have already attacked another tree.  So, you should
remove a dead tree with beetle symptoms before the insects
spread.  Also, spray neighboring pines with a recommended
insecticide as soon as possible.
-End-
-Title-
Birch Problems
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                         Birch Problems

     Birch trees are beautiful and graceful.  Used mainly on
lawns, they are susceptible to several fungus parasites and
insect pests.  Of these, the bronze birch borer is the main
killer of birch trees used in ornamental plantings.

     The bronze birch borer beetles feed on foliage and deposit
their eggs in slits in the bark.  They make flat, irregular,
winding galleries just beneath the bark of the main trunk.  Heavy
infestations can kill trees.  To control the bronze birch borer,
spray the trunk and branches thoroughly and the leaves lightly
with an insecticide.  Spray in early June and twice more at two-
week intervals.  Keep trees healthy by feeding and watering them
as needed.

     Other pests of birch trees are leaf blister, leaf rust, leaf
spot, die back, wood decay, case bearer, birch leaf miner, birch
skeletonizer and other fungi and insects.

     Leaf blister is caused by fungi.  Two types of fungi produce
red blisters and curling of leaves on birch trees.  Another
fungus forms yellow blisters.  To control leaf blister, gather
and burn all fallen leaves.  Spray trees with a fungicide just
before buds open in the spring.

     Leaf rust causes spotting and defoliation.  The rust
pustules are bright reddish-yellow.  The spores from these
pustules carry the infection from leaf to leaf.  In ornamental
planting, the disease rarely becomes destructive enough to
warrant special control measures.

     Leaf spot is the name of several fungi which attack birch
trees.  They may cause premature defoliation.  Control can
usually be obtained by gathering and burning fallen leaves.  To
prevent leaf spot, spray the tree with a bordeaux mixture or any
other copper spray in the late spring.

     Die-back fungus attacks trees weakened by drought.  It
causes a progressive die-back of upper branches.  Infestations of
the bronze birch borer may cause similar symptoms, too.  Prune
the affected branches to sound wood.  Fertilize and water the
trees heavily to help revitalize them.

     A number of wood decay fungi attack birches.  Once they
become extensive, they can't be controlled.  Avoid wounding the
trees and maintain good vigor by fertilization.  These are the
best preventative practices.

     Birches are also subject to several other fungus diseases
such as powdery mildew and leaf spot.  Several fungicides are
available to help control these fungus diseases.

     Two aphids affect birch trees --  the European birch aphid
and the common birch aphid.  The European birch aphid is yellow.
It infests cut leaved and other birch varieties.  The common
birch aphid is large and green.  It produces honeydew followed by
sooty mold.  Spray trees thoroughly with an insecticide as soon
as these aphids appear.

     The case bearer, a light yellow to green caterpillar with a
black head, also attacks birch trees.  The pest overwinters, or
lives through the winter, as a larva in a case attached to the
bark.  Spray in late July or early August with a standard
insecticide solution or spray in late spring, before growth
begins, with one part of concentrated lime sulfur in eight parts
of water.

     The birch leaf miner, a small white worm, causes leaves to
turn brown in late spring or early summer.  The adult is a small
black sawfly which lives through the winter in the soil.  The
first brood causes the most damage because it attacks tender
spring foliage.  Broods hatching during the summer cause less
damage because they feed only on leaves on sucker growths and on
newly developing leaves in the crowns of trees.

     To control the leaf miner, spray with an insecticide.  For
best control, make two additional applications at 10-day
intervals after the first spraying in early spring.

     Birch skeletonizer is another insect pest of birch trees.
As a result of its feeding, the lower leaf surface is chewed and
the leaf is skeletonized and may turn brown.  To control the
birch skeletonizer, spray the upper and lower sides of the leaves
with an insecticide about mid-July.
-End-
-Title-
Sycamore Problems
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                        Sycamore Problems

     The most serious disease of sycamore trees is leaf blight,
also known as anthracnose and scorch.  The destructiveness of
this disease is often under-estimated.  Although a single attack
is seldom harmful, repeated attacks can weaken trees and make
them susceptible to winter injury and damage by borers.

     The first symptom of leaf blight is the sudden browning and
death of single leaves or clusters of leaves as they're expanding
in the spring.  This is often confused with frost injury.  Later,
brown, dead areas appear along and between the veins of other
leaves.  Trees may be defoliated and remain bare until late
summer when new leaves are formed.  Leaf blight may attack and
kill small twigs, too.  Cankers appear on the leaf spurs and on
twigs; they look like sunken areas with slightly raised margins.
Trees moderately infected with leaf blight will have scattered
clusters of dead leaves which contrast sharply with unaffected
foliage.

     A fungus with several distinctly different types of spores
causes blight.  The fungus may live through the winter in the
vegetative stage in fallen infected leaves and in twig cankers.
In the South, it spends the winter in the spore stage on dormant
buds.  The first infections of the young leaves in spring may
originate from spores that lived through the winter on leaves on
the ground, from spores developed on infected twigs, or from
spores on the dormant buds.

     The prevalence and severity of attacks are determined by
weather conditions.  Frequent rains and cool temperatures favor
rapid spread.  The severity of the shoot blight stage depends
largely on the average temperature during the two weeks after
leaves first emerge.

     To help control diseases of sycamores, gather and burn all
the fallen leaves in the autumn.  This destroys the organism that
lives through the winter and produces spores for the next
spring's infections.  Whenever it's feasible, prune infected
spurs and dead twigs and burn them.  Some control can be provided
by spraying fungicides.  Apply the first spray just before the
leaves unfurl, the second when leaves are half-grown, and the
third when the leaves are fully grown.  If trees suffer from
repeated attacks, fertilize them heavily in the fall or the next
spring to increase their vigor.

     Insects can be a problem on sycamores, too.  They include
the giant bark aphid, the sycamore plant bug, sycamore tussock
moth and scales.

     The giant bark aphid often attacks the twigs of sycamore
trees and may gather in clusters on the undersides of the limbs.
They exude great quantities of honeydew, a sweet fluid which
often turns blackish.  To control aphids, use an insecticide.

     Sycamore plant bugs suck out the plant juices on the upper
sides of sycamore leaves, leaving a poisonous material which
results in yellow or red spots.  As the leaves grow, the injured
areas drop out, leaving holes.  To control the sycamore plant
bug, spray trees with an insecticide in early April and again two
weeks later.

     The sycamore tussock moth is a problem on sycamores in the
northeastern United States.  The caterpillar stage of the moth is
yellow and has yellow to white hairs on its body.  Spraying with
an insecticide will help control this moth.

     Several species of scale insects occasionally infest
sycamores.  To control them, spray your trees with an insecticide
in late spring when the young scales are crawling.  A dormant oil
spray should be applied in early spring if infestations are
unusually heavy.
-End-
-Title-
Grayish Green Growth on Tree Trunks
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
               Grayish Green Growth on Tree Trunks

     Cloudy, wet weather is ideal for algae and lichens.  These
organisms grow profusely on trunks, limbs and twigs of many trees
and shrubs.

     Algae are the simplest form of green plants.  They were
probably the first food-producing organisms and are present
nearly everywhere.  They grow in any place that has enough
moisture -- on tree trunks, twigs, shrubs, soil, rocks and walls.

     Lichens have two parts:  a fungus and an algae living in
association with one another to give the appearance of one plant.
Lichens grow on soil, trunks, branches and rocks.  Like algae,
lichens manufacture their own food.  They occur in several forms.
Some are leaf-like; others look like a tuft of horse hair hanging
from branches.  They may be crusty growths of white, green,
yellow or gray.

     Because all of these primitive plant forms make their own
food, they don't directly injure the plant on which they grow.
Heavy growth, however, may have a suffocating effect and can
reduce the sunlight reaching the leaves.  Some people like these
hitchhiking plants because they add color to shrubbery and trees
in winter.  But when the growth becomes unattractive, it should
be controlled.

     The presence of lichens, algae and mosses on plants may mean
the plant is in poor condition and not growing vigorously.  To
control lichens, algae and mosses, spray trunks with a copper
fungicide such as bordeaux mixture or a fixed copper.

-End-
-Title-
Identifying Tree Insect Problems
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                Identifying Tree Insect Problems

     Insect problems in trees take the form of holes,
defoliation, drying twigs, foliage discoloration or growth
malformations.

     Insect holes in trees usually exude some kind of fluid.  In
most cases, borer infestations in trees are due to stress or
previous damage to the tree.  Usually, most people blame ants for
damaging a tree; but, it's more likely that they were attracted
to the tree after damage was done, perhaps to feed on insects
already infesting the tree.

     Defoliation may be caused by caterpillars or scale insects,
although  stress can cause it in some cases.  Caterpillars, such
as the buck moth in early spring, are easy to find.  Scales are a
little more secretive in that you're not likely to notice their
damage until large populations have developed.  In addition to
foliage discoloration or spotting, scales may cause tip die-back.

     Several gall forming insects may cause malformations on
trees.  Stems may become swollen and misshapen, buds may be
retarded or killed, and leaves may have fluffy, fuzzy or unusual
growths on them.  The galls may be caused by small wasps, flies
or mites.  When they first start, many of these formations appear
decorative.  However, persistent, continuous infestations can
cause terminal die-back.

     Many of these insect-like problems must be carefully checked
because some diseases may cause the same symptoms, particularly
where galls and scale damage are involved.
-End-
-Title-
Leaf Burn in Trees
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Leaf Burn in Trees

     Tree leaves can turn reddish or brown for many reasons.
Leaf spot diseases and the leaf blister disease are among the
causes of this browning on hardwood tree leaves.  These diseases
usually start as spots and progress through the leaf.  They don't
always do serious harm, and you can control them with chemical
sprays.

     You can lessen the effects of leaf burn by fertilizing your
trees and keeping them pruned properly.  Remember, though, that
over-fertilization, dry weather and chemical damage can cause
leaves to turn brown.
-End-
-Title-
Mistletoe in Trees
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Mistletoe in Trees

     Mistletoe may be nice to have for decorating around
Christmas, but it's not very good for the tree it's growing on.

     Mistletoe is a parasite, that is, it lives off trees by
stealing some of the water and nutrients that would normally
nourish the tree.  Oaks, hackberries, elms and pecan trees seem
to be favorites of mistletoe.

     Controlling mistletoe is hard, because it attaches itself to
the tree's vascular system, the part which carries water and
nutrients to all parts of the tree.  If you simply break off the
mistletoe, it will just grow back.  To remove mistletoe for good,
you have to remove the chip of the tree's vascular system to
which it's attached.

     Paint the cut with tree wound paint.  This will keep wood
rotting organisms from getting into the cut.

     If mistletoe is on small limbs, cut the limb about a foot
ahead of the spot where the mistletoe is growing.  Again, you
should paint the cut.

     Mistletoe is spread primarily by birds which carry the seeds
on their beaks after eating the white berries of the mistletoe.
When birds wipe their beaks on a tree, the seed finds a home.

     Cutting out the mistletoe is the only way to control it.
Chemicals that kill mistletoe also hurt the tree.
-End-
-Title-
Protecting Trees During Construction
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
              Protecting Trees During Construction

     Saving trees around a house or building that you're
constructing is a big plus for beauty and the pocketbook.

     You probably enjoy the shade and beauty trees offer, but may
not know saving trees saves money.  Shade trees cut cooling and
heating costs, and can add from five to ten percent to the real
estate value of a home.

     Unfortunately, many who try to save trees around a new home
or building are disappointed later when the trees die.  But, with
careful construction your trees can survive.

     The number one killer of trees during construction is
damage.  Those clearing your lot sometimes damage the roots or
trunks of trees.  Or, they may smother the roots by packing the
soil with heavy equipment or with fill dirt over the roots.
Construction crews sometimes cut roots when they make way for
concrete slabs and driveways, install underground utilities, or
grade the lot.

     Most of the vital feeder roots of trees are in the top foot
of soil and extend even beyond the drip line of tree branches.

     If you're building, here's what to do to save the health and
maybe the life of your trees.

     First, you must be firm with the builders.  Even then,
supervise them closely.

     Insist on proper care during lot clearing.  Build barricades
around trees to prevent damage.  Crews may need to clear most of
the lot by hand and use heavy equipment only on the house site
itself.

     Clear lots during dry weather.  Heavy equipment damages
roots more during wet weather.

     Have equipment enter and leave the site from one location,
preferably the driveway site.

     Try to have underground utilities laid away from tree roots.
But, if they have to pass close to a tree, insist that corridors
be tunneled under major roots instead of trenched.  You should
ask to have all utilities laid in one corridor, if possible.

     If you have to change the drainage pattern or grade of the
lot, use retaining walls to protect your trees.

     For driveways, walks or patios that extend over root zones,
use a pervious material such as turfstone, gravel or shell.

     To save trees, you have to begin planning even before the
lot is cleared.  If you buy a "spec" house from a builder, you
may be disappointed a year or two later to find he was not
careful, and your trees are dying.  Then, you are faced with the
expense of removing dead trees.  If you paid a higher price for
the lot because of the trees, you've also lost your investment.

     If you're thinking about buying a house already under
construction, look for symptoms of construction damage.  Look for
injuries to tree trunks, exposed or cut roots, a slab too close
to trees or a patio surrounding them.  Other clues are thinning
and yellowing of leaves, or die-back at the top or on branch
ends.

     Sometimes trees can be doctored back to health after
construction.  Fertilization, watering and aeration of compacted
soils are all good medicine for trees suffering from construction
stress.  Other aids are wound repair, dead limb removal and
pruning to compensate for root loss.
-End-
-Title-
Pruning Mature Trees
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Pruning Mature Trees

     The first rule in pruning trees should be -- do no cutting
without a reason.  But, there may be several reasons for needing
or wanting to prune a tree -- reasons such as convenience,
safety, sanitation, or appearance.

     Remember, removing live limbs is a dwarfing process, and
because of this a heavily pruned tree will never be as large as
an unpruned tree.

     Pruning can be done anytime of the year, but generally the
best time is during late winter or early spring before new growth
begins.  The worst time to prune is right after new growth
begins.

     The most common mistake made by most people doing their own
tree pruning is using improper pruning techniques.  Whether
you're cutting large or small branches, all final cuts should be
made smooth and flush with the tree.

     The bark of a branch is usually marked by a swelling, or
"collar," where it joins the trunk or large limb.  The final cut
should be made where the swelling or the collar begins.  Be
careful not to leave a stub on the tree because this is an
excellent place for decay and fungi to get started in the tree.
You may want to apply a tree wound dressing on the cut.

     If you're not careful, you can seriously damage your tree
when pruning large branches.  You can accidentally create large
wounds on the tree if you allow a large branch which is being
removed to strip bark as it falls from the tree.  This damage can
be prevented by making multiple cuts or by using the so-called
stub-cutting method.  Make the first cut from below at two inches
from the trunk, half way through the limb, then cut off the limb
from above.  Then, remove the stub with a cut where the swelling
or collar begins at the trunk of the tree.

     Many large, old trees are sun-scaled if they're heavily top-
pruned or if they were part of a forest and most of their
companion trees were cut.  Their bark is killed when suddenly
exposed to full sunlight after growing in the shade.  This can
happen to your trees if they aren't pruned properly.

     To prevent sun-scald, prune only part of the tree top in any
one year.  If you need to thin a grove of trees, do it by cutting
the unwanted trees over a period of years rather than all at one
time.

     One other pruning practice, pollarding, is sometimes used on
old trees.  Pollarding is the cutting off of the top of the tree,
leaving only the major limbs.  These limbs then are expected to
produce a new crown.

     Pollarding can be recommended only for unusual situations.
It works well on only a few trees such as silver maples, poplars
and willows.  However, even these trees have an unpleasing
appearance until they can grow new crowns.  Protect all
pollarding wounds with a wound paint especially recommended for
trees.
-End-
-Title-
Repairing Tree Injuries
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Repairing Tree Injuries

     If a tree in your landscape is injured, prompt action can
save it from becoming unsightly or dangerous, and may save the
tree's life.

     Injuries that expose wood or kill the bark can let disease
and decay organisms enter the tree.  You should treat these
wounds to protect the tree until they heal.

     To treat it, cut away all damaged bark and removed scraps of
bark in the wound.  These scraps will usually die anyway and
don't help the healing.

     For faster healing, shape the edge of the wound into an
elongated ellipse as much as is possible.  If you can't make it
into an elongated ellipse, make a point at the top and bottom,
even if you have to enlarge the wound.

     Remove all splintered wood and smooth the surface of exposed
wood.  Disinfect the wound with alcohol or shellac and apply the
tree wound paint.  Large, slowly healing wounds may need
additional paint after two or three years.

     You should inspect large wounds occasionally to be sure the
paint is not cracking.  Breaks in the paint should be repainted.
If decay has developed in the wound, it should be cut away and
the wound re-treated.

     If one of your trees is struck by lightning, you won't be
able to tell for about a year how badly it was injured.  Trees
that seem to be badly damaged may live, while others appearing to
be only mildly damaged may die.  Go ahead and remove all
shattered parts and dangerous limbs.  On pines, you might help
the tree resist pine beetles by spraying it.

     Split trunks, crotches, limbs or branches can sometimes be
mended by  putting the damaged part back in position and holding
it there permanently.

     To repair split trunks and crotches, smooth the damaged
parts, then disinfect the wound with denatured alcohol or
shellac.  Using bolts inserted in holes drilled straight through
the separated parts, bring them together.

     Cover the crack with antiseptic paint.  Split crotches
usually require cables to support the weight of the branches.
For serious damage, you should contact a tree surgeon.

     Sometimes you can save uprooted trees by promptly restoring
them to their position.  Be sure not to let the roots dry out.
You should hold the tree in place with guy wires and fertilize
and water it.  Watch it closely for insect infestations.


-End-
-Title-
Transplanting Trees
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Transplanting Trees

     Many native or wild plants can be used in the home
landscape.  Native trees tend to be hardy to local weather
conditions and local soils.  They may be more tolerant of local
garden insects and diseases, too.  Most are easy to grow, but the
task of transplanting the desired native tree from the woods to
your lawn can be a hard one.

     The wet, cold days of winter are ideal times for
transplanting native plants.  But, if you can't provide similar
growing conditions to those in which the native plant is growing,
leave the plant to nature.

     Before digging, decide which native plants will fit your
landscape needs.  For instance, don't select a dogwood for a
sunny location when the tree needs shade or overhead protection.

     Also, don't try to transplant a large specimen.  Small
plants are usually more vigorous, grow much faster, and are
easier to handle.  You might want to tag the plant in the woods
while it has leaves or berries.  This way you can be sure of a
positive identification.

     In the case of a large tree, prune the root system of the
selected native tree before digging.  Prune the plant's lateral
roots one growing season before you plan to transplant it.  Do so
by making spade cuts around the plant in winter.  Allow the soil
to remain in place, however.

     When transplanting, lift the plant with a ball of dirt, if
possible.  Plant the native tree immediately at its normal
growing depth.  Water it well and mulch with leaves, straw or
leaf mold.

     To compensate for the loss of root area and to encourage new
branching and foliage in the spring, prune the upper branches and
end shoots of limbs.  On evergreen plants, strip away some of the
foliage.

     Native plants which can be transplanted successfully include
dogwood, redbud, river birch, sassafras, cherry laurel, red
cedar, American holly, yaupon, native hawthorns, French mulberry,
native oaks, elms, and maples.  These are desirable and abundant.
-End-
-Title-
Tree Cavities
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                          Tree Cavities

     Tree cavity repair is a difficult and specialized job.  For
this reason, it is recommended that you consult a competent tree
surgeon in your area.  Look in the telephone directory for a list
of tree surgeons in your area.
-End-
-Title-
Hiring a Tree Service
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Hiring a Tree Service

     Before you hire a tree service company, decide what you want
done to your trees because the services performed by different
companies varies considerably.  On one extreme are those
companies which only remove trees.  On the other extreme are
full-service companies which do cabling and bracing, insect and
disease spraying, fertilization, pruning, tree removal, stump
grinding, planting and cavity filling.

     You may find that you will want a full-service company
because the employees are generally better trained.  A full-
service company can perform more than one type of operation and
if, at a later date, additional service is needed or your trees
have a different problem, you can call on a company with which
you are familiar.

     After you decide which service you need for your trees,
decide on which company you want and check it out.  Ask for
references.  The hour or so you spend checking out a tree service
is not likely to make any difference in whether your trees live
or die.

     Ask about the type and amount of liability insurance the
company carries.  Many tree trimmers have little or no liability
insurance.  If you hire a company which doesn't carry liability
insurance, you will be responsible for injuries or damages
incurred to or by the tree trimmers while they're working on your
property.

     Get a written estimate from more than one tree service.  Ask
what the price includes because you can get varying prices
depending on whether the tree service company cleans up the mess,
whether the wood will be left or resold and, in the case of
spraying the trees, who will provide the water.  Five-hundred
gallons of water through your water meter could be an expensive
hidden cost.

     Carefully analyze all the information you get when
selecting a tree service, and don't be pressured into something
you don't need.
-End-
-Title-
Trees for Shady Locations
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                    Trees for Shady Locations

     Most trees need at least some sun, but there are some trees
which need less than others.  Trees which grow well in shady
locations include species of various shapes and sizes.  Before
you plant trees in your landscape, get some professional guidance
or compare the situation in your yard to a location where the
tree you want to plant is already growing.

     Trees which survive in shady locations include magnolia,
white bay, American holly, drummond red maple, sourwood, dogwood,
silverbell, redbud, cypress, wax myrtle, American beech and red
bay.
-End-
-Title-
Yellowing and Dropping of Leaves
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                Yellowing and Dropping of Leaves

     Probably the most common problem of ornamental trees and
shrubs is a general decline associated with a dieback of twigs
and yellowing of leaves.  This often begins as a marginal dying
on the edges of the leaves or with a bleaching and yellowing of
most of the plant.  The injured plant often dies.

     Unlike leaf spots which are usually scattered at random,
this dieback of twigs and yellowing of leaves is caused by roots
which are not functioning properly in transporting water to the
upper parts of the plant.

     Possible causes for this problem are:

     Drought stress -- This often results in a gradual yellowing
of the entire plant, beginning with leaf margins.  Even large
trees have feeder roots located in the upper portion of the soil.
Without adequate moisture, these feeder roots dry out.

     Over-watering -- Too much water suffocates the root system
and helps disease-producing organisms establish themselves in the
plant.

     Transplant injury -- Newly planted ornamental trees and
shrubs can be affected by "transplant shock" if roots are damaged
before transplanting or if they are subjected to poor soil
preparation and poor care at planting time.  Soil should be
worked up and mulched for several feet around the planting site.

     Adaption problem -- Different plants have different
requirements for sunlight and moisture.  Selecting a site that is
suitable for the plant can avoid many problems.

     Iron chlorosis -- This abnormally yellow color of plant
tissues can be observed in parts of the state where soils have a
high pH.  It's also observed on plants growing near cement walks,
driveways and other kinds of construction.  Often the soil pH in
these areas has been raised by chemicals used in construction.

     Fungus root rots and nematodes -- These are common pathogens
on many ornamental trees and shrubs.  The lower stem and roots of
severely infected plants are rotted and discolored.  If the bark
is peeled from the plant, you can see dark streaks or fungal
strands.  Once above-ground symptoms are observed, little can be
done to save a plant attacked by root-rot organisms.  The best
control for root rots is to prevent them by maintaining good
drainage, fertility and a proper environment for the plant.
-End-
-Title-
Buying Trees
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                          Buying Trees

     Generally, nurseries will have shrubs and trees for sale in
three categories -- balled and burlapped, in containers, or bare
rooted.

     First, the balled and burlapped type.  A ball of soil is
wrapped in burlap and pinned with nails.  When you're handling
this kind of plant, never lift it by its stem or trunk and don't
remove the burlap when you plant the tree.  Rough handling can
loosen the ball of soil and endanger the life of the plant.

     Balled plants are usually larger than container-grown plants
of the same price.  Also, they are usually field grown and may be
better adjusted to conditions in your lawn.

     Second, container-grown plants are also popular with
nurseries.  The most common sizes of containers are one gallon,
two gallon and five gallon.

     One of the real advantages of container-grown plants is that
there is less shock when the plant is transplanted.  The
container should be cut with special shears by the nurseryman so
the plant can be lifted out of the container easily without
disturbing the soil.

     Third, bare rooted plants are commonly offered by nurseries.
But these plants are a little more risky than the two mentioned
previously, especially during the spring.
-End-
-Title-
Why Trees Die in New Subdivisions
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                Why Trees Die in New Subdivisions

     Many homeowners who move into a new subdivision and live
there for six months or a year are distressed to find that some
of the established trees on their lot die for no apparent reason.

     But there are reasons for these trees dying.  One of the
most common reasons is the change in the soil grade around the
tree. Three or more inches of soil added over tree root systems
often cuts off oxygen to the roots which eventually kills the
roots and this eventually kills the tree.

     Also, grading two or three inches or more under the spread
of a tree often disturbs the feeder roots and causes them die.

     If the subdivision was developed in an area where the trees
were growing in thick groves and many of the trees had to be
removed to make room for the houses, the trees which are left are
exposed to more light and wind than they can handle and may die
in two or three years.

     Generally, heavy construction equipment is used in preparing
home sites and in the actual building of the house.  Because this
equipment is so heavy, it tends to pack the soil which may kill
tree roots.

     In addition to all this, when new subdivisions are
developed, there's a change in the water table because of the
addition of such things as streets, storm sewers, and deep
ditches which remove water from the lots -- water that ordinarily
would have soaked into the soil for use by the trees.
-End-
-Title-
Fertilizing Shade Trees
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Fertilizing Shade Trees

     Shade trees exist in nature without much care, but
transplanting them to man-made conditions can cause them some
problems.  It's especially helpful to fertilize shade trees
during the second growing season and thereafter.  Don't fertilize
trees during the first year after planting or the top growth may
become more than the roots can feed which could cause the tree to
die.  Fertilizer may also benefit established trees that appear
less than healthy.

     Fertilizer for trees should have nitrogen, phosphorous and
potash.  Examples of some fertilizers to look for are 8-8-8, 13-
13-13 and 12-4-4.  Common garden fertilizers such as 8-8-8 are
satisfactory.  Be careful of weed and feed type fertilizers since
they contain herbicides which could harm trees or these
fertilizers could even kill trees if they're used long enough.

     Fertilize established trees only as needed.  Mid to late
winter is the best time.  If additional nutrients are needed,
make a second application in early summer.  Don't fertilize trees
in late summer because it may cause them to continue to actively
grow into the winter months and be damaged by cold weather.

     Use one to two pounds of fertilizer for each inch of tree
diameter.  Trees less than six inches in diameter need about two
pounds of fertilizer each year.  To determine the diameter,
measure the distance through the tree, not the distance around
the tree, and measure at chest level.

     Surface application is one of the easiest ways to apply
fertilizer.  It can be used on established trees where the soil
beneath the tree is free of vegetation such as grass or ground
cover.  Apply fertilizer evenly under the tree branches.  Don't
put fertilizer within one foot of the trunk as it can injure the
root collar.

     If the soil is compacted, or if grass is growing under
trees, punch holes six to eight inches deep in the soil and put
the fertilizer in the holes.  Don't put more than a handful of
fertilizer in each hole.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Tree Stumps
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Removing Tree Stumps

     You can remove stumps from your yard manually, mechanically,
or by helping the natural processes of decay.

     A stump that's eight inches or smaller in diameter can be
dug or pulled out manually with an axe, grub hoe, shovel and
perspiration.

     Larger stumps can be easily removed by mechanical devices
that have rotary blades which cut and chew the stump to the level
below the ground that you want it.  You may be able to get these
mechanical stump removers from rental outlets.  Most tree service
operators have them for custom work.

     A very practical, but slower, way of removing stumps is to
speed up the natural process of decay.  Drilling holes in stumps
and filling them with a high-nitrogen fertilizer can create a
good place for rot fungi to grow.  Also, fertilizer may be
sprinkled on the top of the stump.  The stump must be kept moist
for the fertilizer to work.  Use mulch and water if you need to.
-End-
-Title-
Estimating the Value of Trees and Shrubs
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
            Estimating the Value of Trees and Shrubs

     Storms, lightning, vandalism, automobile accidents and other
incidents can sometimes make it necessary for you to place a
value on your trees and shrubs for insurance, tax or legal
purposes.

     If you're trying to recover damages to your trees and shrubs
by means of a lawsuit, you will need to get an evaluation from an
expert.  Acceptable experts for court purposes are consulting
arborists, consulting foresters, representatives of tree service
companies and sometimes county agents.  All of these experts will
use a nationally accepted guide to determine the value of damaged
or destroyed trees or shrubs.

     If you're trying to recover damages by means of an insurance
claim, you will need to check first with your insurance agent to
determine if such damage is covered by your policy.  If the
damages are covered, the loss or reduction in the fair market
value of your property must be determined by a real estate
appraiser.  Most insurance policies have a maximum that they
allow for tree loss.

     If you're trying to recover damages by means of a state or
federal tax deduction, you will have to use the amount of fair
market value not covered by the insurance.  Federal tax
regulations allow deductions, but you should check IRS provisions
for reporting such losses.

     Whether you can obtain insurance compensation or a tax
deduction for the casualty loss of a tree or shrub may depend on
how well you can document the before and after value of the
plant.

     Old and new photographs, plus a written statement from an
appraiser, will, in most cases, be sufficient evidence to
document reasonable claims.
-End-
-Title-
Operating a Chain Saw Safely
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Operating a Chain Saw Safely

     Over 30,000 chain saw accidents are reported every year in
the United States.  Many of these can be prevented with just a
little common sense.  For example, when you're operating a chain
saw, dress appropriately.  Don't wear a neck tie or leave a
handkerchief or your shirt tail hanging out.  Any of these things
could get sucked into the air intake of the saw or get caught in
the chain.

     Wear shoes with non-slip soles.  More than one-fifth of the
reported accidents were the result of insecure footing.  Plant
both feet firmly on the ground and always wear a safety hard hat.
Limbs falling from above or saw kickbacks make a hard hat
essential.

     Kickbacks can occur when the tip of the blade strikes a
small limb, the ground or other objects.  Be alert to conditions
that can cause kickbacks and avoid them.  Hold your saw firmly in
both hands to help overcome the effects of kickback if it does
happen.  Give your undivided attention to the cut you're making.
Don't take children or pets to the woods with you.

     Chain tension is another important safety consideration.  If
the chain is too loose, it will wear out more quickly.  If the
chain is too tight, it will move when the engine is idling.  A
saw with either of these conditions is dangerous.  Your owners
manual should describe the correct tension.

     A sharp saw not only cuts easier and faster, but it's safer
to use.  A dull saw jumps in the cut and produces fine sawdust
rather than chips.  You should learn to recognize this condition.

     Your operators manual will list many tips and safety rules.
Study and practice them.  Your power saw can be highly productive
and satisfactory to use.  Use it properly.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Trees
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                         Removing Trees

     It is not recommended that homeowners try to remove trees
from city lots.  It's best to get a competent and bonded tree
surgeon for this job.  The telephone directory lists tree removal
specialists in your area.

-End-
-Title-
Anticipating Shade Needs
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                    Anticipating Shade Needs

     Trees are among our most permanent plants.  Some can live
and enhance a landscape for 100 years or longer.  So, it's
important that you select shade trees very carefully.  You'll be
planting them not only for yourself, but for future generations.

     Winter is the best time to plant trees.  But, winter is not
the best time to decide where to plant the trees.  Summer is
better for deciding where to plant because of the greater need
for shade then.

     Winter is the best time to plant trees because the dormant
condition of plants, the cooler temperatures and the high
moisture content of the soil all help a newly-planted tree get
off to a good start.  Nurseries also have a good selection of new
plants in winter so you can choose from a wide and varied
selection.

     As for deciding where to plant trees, watch the sun on your
house during the summer and notice the path that it travels.  The
direction of the sun's travel and the angles at which sunlight
hits your house and the things around it during the summer are
quite different from the way it travels and hits your house
during the winter, so be careful when you're making your decision
for shade.

     When the sun is low, you could have smaller trees, but when
it is high, you need larger trees.  Decide if you want evergreen
trees or deciduous trees which lose their leaves in the winter.
Deciduous trees are good for summer shade and they allow the sun
to penetrate in winter when their leaves fall.

     Many people want "instant" shade.  This just isn't possible.
The trees that grow the fastest are often the most short-lived.
The best and most enduring species usually grow a little more
slowly.  Their lifespans are sometimes two to four times that of
man.

     It's hard to measure in dollars the value of a mature oak,
maple or other tree sheltering your house from the summer sun,
but it's definitely an asset.  On the other hand, a weak, short-
lived tree can be a source of constant worry and frustration.
-End-
-Title-
Landscape Views From Inside
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                   Landscape Views From Inside

     Neither the summer nor the winter are particularly good
times to get outside for any length of time, especially when
you're doing gardening chores.  Because most people prefer the
comforts of air conditioning or heating, depending on the season,
outside activities are usually limited to only those which are
necessary.

     And because so much time is spent indoors, the view of your
landscape from the inside of your house or business is important.

     You don't have to be physically in a garden to enjoy it.
Some of the most famous gardens of the world are only seen from
within a building.  People are not allowed to move into these
gardens at all.  You can take the same idea and apply it to your
needs.

     You should plan your garden so the living area looks as
though it moves outdoors.  It will be a better view than looking
at a heavily draped window or wall, and it will make the room
appear much larger.

     On the other hand, a planting that's carefully placed 75 to
100 feet away on the rear property line doesn't do much for the
inside and really doesn't "pay its way."  From long distances,
many plants look alike, especially evergreens.

     A variety of trees and shrubs have seasonal color changes,
and can add a new and distinctive look to your homesite.  You can
open the draperies in your living and sleeping areas and reveal
the beauty of the natural world.  A piece of garden sculpture or
a water feature critically placed can further enhance the view.

     In the late summer, make a checklist of ways to improve the
interior-exterior relationship of your house and garden and make
the view from within a memorable part of family living.
-End-
-Title-
Low Maintenance Landscapes
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                   Low Maintenance Landscapes

     Probably one of your highest priorities in landscape
planning is low maintenance.  But you should know that attempts
to reduce maintenance should begin with planning, not later after
the plants are in the ground.

     During the spring, it's easy to over-plant because you tend
not to think about having to care for all those plants during the
hot summer months.

     The basic questions that should be answered at the outset
are, "How much maintenance do you want to do?" and "How much can
you do?"  Certainly, you don't have to keep your landscape in the
tradition of formal gardens when a more natural and casual
appearance is acceptable and sometimes preferred.

     When you are preparing your landscape, don't take shortcuts
when you're preparing the bed.  Good soil preparation will help
the plant to grow and generally the plant will take care of
itself in a fairly short time.

     Mulch your plantings to reduce weed competition and to let
you get rid of the weeds and grasses easier.

     Eliminate small patches of grass in places where it's hard
to mow.  You might consider a ground cover for these areas.

     Carefully consider the amount and location of planting beds
which will need extra care.

     Keep the planting design simple.  Accept the fact that
elaborate plantings require a great deal of attention.

     Remember, the coolness of spring will give way to the heat
of summer.  Don't become over-enthusiastic when you're planning
and planting your landscape.
-End-
-Title-
Planters in the Landscape
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                    Planters in the Landscape

     Planters have many uses in the landscape, such as defining
traffic patterns, providing accent and relieving monotony.

     The overall design of a planter should be in harmony with
its surroundings.  Using the same material in the planter that's
used in the house helps unify the landscape and the building.

     Sometimes plants don't perform well in planters and one of
the most common reasons is poor drainage.  To get good drainage
in your planter, use a planting mix of at least 50 percent
organic matter and a generous amount of sand.  Bottom drainage
should be provided in all planters.

     You will need to water plants growing in planters more often
than plants growing in the ground -- this is particularly true
during the summer.  If planters are attached to your house, the
house wall should be thoroughly waterproof to avoid water
problems with interior walls.

     When you're selecting your plants for the planter, choose
those which grow under more arid conditions and be sure not to
mix plants with different growing requirements.  For example, you
wouldn't want to put plants that need a lot of sun in the same
planter as plants that need a lot of shade.

     Spring is a good time for planting annuals for spring and
summer color. Most nurseries have a good assortment of plants
during the spring.
-End-
-Title-
Wood in the Landscape
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Wood in the Landscape

     When you're choosing wood for your landscape structures,
such as fences and decks, you have three main choices.  Pressure-
treated Southern timber is usually the most reliable and
economical choice.  Fences and decks built with pressure-treated
wood should last at least 25 years.  Buy pressure-treated wood
from a reputable supplier and ask if the wood is intended for use
above ground or in the ground.  In-ground treated wood should be
used when the wood touches the ground.  It will last much longer
than above-ground wood for outside uses.

     You can also select heartwood of natural decay and insect
resistant woods such as black locust, redwood, white oak, cedar
and cypress.  Naturally resistant heartwood has a more variable
lifespan than pressure-treated wood.  Of the naturally resistant
woods, black locust and osage orange are excellent for fencing.
Black locust posts with three or more inches of yellow-brown
heartwood and eight or more rings per inch will last at least 15
years in the ground.  Osage orange heartwood will last about that
long, too.

     Cedar, cypress, redwood and white oak heartwood posts will
last from five to 15 years in the ground.  Sap pine, hickory, red
oak, spruce, sweet gum and yellow poplar heartwood posts will
last from two to ten years.  But, locating heartwood is the
biggest problem.  There's just not much "true" heartwood
available today.

     The heartwood of the naturally resistant woods such as
cedar, cypress and redwood can be used above ground in decks or
fences as well as for fence posts.  The lighter-colored sapwood
of all naturally resistant species decay in one to five years in
the ground.  You should trim off sapwood posts before you set
them.

     If you have plenty of Southern pine, you can treat it
yourself if you intend to use it above ground.  The best
treatment is to soak the lumber or posts for at least several
weeks in a pentachlorophenol solution.  Brushing or spraying pine
with preservative solutions won't give enough protection if it is
to be used in the ground.  This wood needs to be soaked or
pressure treated.  Pentachlorophenol is toxic to plants and
should not be used for planters or plant bed edgings.

     Don't use untreated sap pine, fir or spruce for fences or
decks.  However, if you've already built structures with
untreated wood, you can brush or spray all the surfaces with a
water-repellent preservative.  You should do this at least twice
and then reapply the preservative every year or two.  This will
prolong the life of the structures.
-End-
-Title-
Wood Fences
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                           Wood Fences

     Your choice of building materials for a fence is just about
the most important decision of the whole project.

     If you use the wrong materials and a poor design, the fence
is destined to a short life.  This is especially true when it
comes to fence posts.  Because fence posts come in contact with
the soil, they should be pressure-treated to protect them from
decay and insects.

     Horizontal parts of the fence, which connect the posts,
should be made of either naturally decay-resistant wood such as
cypress, cedar, or redwood, or it should be pressure-treated with
a preservative for above-ground use.

     The vertical boards should also be either naturally decay
resistant or pressure-treated.  Don't allow the vertical board to
come in contact with the soil.

     The boards should be fastened with hot-dipped galvanized
nails so rust from the nails won't discolor the wood.  Also, if
at all possible, don't join the fence to the house.  This could
be a way for termites to enter your house.

     If you paint your fence, it can become a continual chore
keeping it painted.  Instead, consider a penetrating stain which
contains a preservative and water repellent.
-End-
-Title-
Arbors
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Arbors

     An arbor is an excellent way to make an outdoor room for
both people and plants.  It is inexpensive to build and you can
get garden manuals on outdoor structures that give complete
instructions which make it an easy project.

     An arbor serves many purposes.  It can add to the living
space of a family room, dining room, or can offer an opportunity
to use plants in many different ways, such as hanging vines and
potted plants.

     Not only do arbors offer shelter for people and plants, but
it serves a practical purpose as well.  Large areas of glass that
are exposed to the afternoon sun can be shaded with the addition
of an arbor.  Vines covering the structure give shading in the
summer, and if you choose a vine which loses its leaves in the
late fall, the exposure to the winter sun will help heat your
house.

     An arbor gives an otherwise dull outdoor space more appeal,
and at the same time adds to the living space of your house.  The
practical and visual advantages of an arbor make it a worthwhile
project.
-End-
-Title-
Growing Cucumbers
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                        Growing Cucumbers

     Cucumbers are warm season vegetables.  Plant seeds after the
danger of frost has passed.

     Cucumbers will grow and produce well on just about any soil,
but loose, rich soils are best.  Clay and sandy soils should have
plenty of compost worked into them for best results.

     Loosen the soil with a shovel and dig as deeply as the
shovel will go.  Add several inches of compost, then mix well,
making sure no clumps remain.  Work the soil when it's moist, not
dry or wet.  Use one cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer for every 15 feet
of row.

     Because cucumbers form vines that run along the ground, they
need more space than many other vegetables.  However, cucumbers
can be grown successfully on a fence or trellis.  You'll have to
help them get attached to the support, but once attached they
will intertwine and hold themselves up.  Trellising cucumbers can
actually increase yield and quality over those grown on the
ground.

     To plant cucumbers, put two or three seeds in hills 12
inches apart.  As the plants come up, thin them to one plant per
hill.  You may want to try some of the bush varieties sold in
seed catalogs.  These varieties don't grow more than two feet
across.

     Because cucumbers must have clean rows to produce well, pull
weeds as soon as you see them.  A thick mulch of leaves will keep
most annual weeds down, but many gardeners like to use black
plastic for mulch because the soil warms earlier and plants bear
fruit earlier.

     Cucumbers are closely related to squash, melons and gourds.
Most varieties produce separate male and female flowers on the
same plants.  Insects such as bees carry pollen from the male
flowers and pollinate the female flowers.  Because of this, you
must be careful not to kill the bees when you use chemicals to
kill insects.  So, apply pesticides late in the afternoon when
bees are no longer active.

     Pick cucumbers every other day.  Pick fruit carefully by
breaking it off the vine with your thumb.  Be careful not to step
on vines and leaves.  Old cucumbers left on the vine will reduce
later yields, so be sure to pull them off and discard them.
-End-
-Title-
Eggplants
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                            Eggplants

     Eggplants are a warm-season vegetable that requires more
warmth than many other vegetables.  Eggplants are sensitive to
cool temperatures and frost, so they don't perform well when
planted too early while temperatures are low.  In fact, the cool
weather tends to harden and stunt the eggplants, from which they
recover very slowly.

     The best time to set out eggplants is when the daily
temperature averages 65 to 70 degrees.

     The standard eggplant produces egg-shaped, glossy, purple-
black fruit six to nine inches long.  The long, slender Japanese
eggplant has a thinner skin and more delicate flavor.  Both
standard and miniature eggplants can be grown successfully in
containers; but, standards yield a better crop.  White,
ornamental varieties are available and edible yet are poor eating
quality.

     Warm to hot weather throughout the season is necessary for
good production.  Seeds germinate quickly at 70 to 90 degrees
Fahrenheit; plants should be grown for eight to nine weeks before
setting them out.  Cold temperatures will stop plant and root
growth reducing plant vigor and yields.  Using hot caps or
cloches protects plants from cold conditions.

     Though eggplants do well in hot weather, they must have well
drained soil and do not thrive in very humid areas.  When plants
are about six inches high, nip back the growing tip to encourage
branching.  Pick fruits when immature--about two-thirds maximum
size.  Mature fruit should not be left on the plant as this will
reduce overall productivity.

-End-
-Title-
Garlic
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Garlic

     Garlic, a member of the onion family, may be grown
successfully in most Virginia home gardens.  There are early
(White or Mexican) cultivars and late (Pink or Italian)
cultivars.  The early cultivar does not store well and has poorer
quality, but out yields the later type.  Garlic must be planted
very early in Virginia (March or April) to permit full
development.  Fall preparation of the soil is desirable so the
soil can be fertilized and planted with minimum tillage in the
spring.

     Garlic is started by planting cloves that are divisions of
the large bulb.  Each bulb contains a dozen or more cloves; each
clove is planted separately.  The larger cloves yield larger size
mature bulbs at harvest.  Do not divide the bulb until ready to
plant--early separation decreases yields.  Select "seed bulbs"
that are large, smooth, fresh, and free from disease.

     Plant the cloves three to five inches apart in an upright
position (to assure a straight neck), and cover them to a depth
of about one inch.  Allow 12-24 inches between rows.  Garlic also
lends itself well to a wide row system of planting, spacing
cloves three to four inches apart in rows a foot wide.  This
requires considerably less garden space for the same yield.

     Garlic grows best on well-drained garden loam soils that are
fertile and high in organic matter.  Gardeners who grow good
onion crops can grow garlic.  Garlic does well at high fertilizer
levels.  When preparing soil for planting, apply four to five
pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet.  Bulbs will be
small if the soil is excessively dry and irregular in shape if
the soil becomes compacted.

     Harvest bulbs when the tops start to dry, usually in August.
Place in trays with screens or slatted bottoms and remove tops
when dry.  Mature bulbs are best stored under cool, dry
conditions.

     Garlic is used both cooked and raw in a wide variety of
dishes.

-End-
-Title-
Herbs
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                              Herbs

     Herbs are aromatic plants used to flavor foods.  They've
been used for flavor and for medicine since ancient times.  One
or more parts of the plants can be used, including the seeds,
fruit, buds, bark, leaves, stems, or roots.

     For a small herb garden, choose a well drained area that
receives full sun most of the day.

     Prepare the soil as you would for a regular garden.  In
heavy soil, build high rows for good drainage.  Fertilize lightly
to moderately with a complete fertilizer.  You may use one cup of
10-10-10 for each 30 to 40 square feet of plant bed.

     Many herbs are perennial, including chives, mint, thyme,
tarragon, catnip, and sage.  Many more are either annuals or can
be treated as annuals and grown from seed.

     Herbs that are started easily from vegetative parts include
chives bulblettes, cuttings of thyme, rosemary, sage, and winter
savory.  Mints are aggressive, and can be propagated easily from
runners or crowns. You may need to place mint in a barrier to
keep it from spreading throughout the garden.

     When planting seeds, cover them lightly with only 1/16 or
1/8 inch of soil.  If you grow herbs in containers, use three
parts of garden soil and one part of compost.  Add sand if the
garden soil is heavy.  Because most herbs are grown for their
oils, don't encourage too much growth.  Excessive growth tends to
dilute these oils and make the herbs weak in taste.  So go easy
on fertilizers, and don't over-water.

     Pinching back the bushes will keep the herb plants stockier.
The fresh, tender leaves that are at or near full maturity will
have the most oils.  So, these are the ones you should harvest.

     If vegetative parts are to be harvested, a plant's
productive period may be extended by pinching off the flower buds
as they begin to develop.  Wash harvested leaves and stems in
cold water and dry them.  Hang them in a dark, airy room to air
dry to a crumbly condition.  Then store them in airtight
containers and place them in a darkened cupboard.  Never store
herbs in paper containers because the containers will absorb the
oils which contain the herbal flavor.  Harvest seed crops when
the seeds are mature--usually when their color changes from green
to brown or gray.

-End-
-Title-
Lettuce
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Lettuce

     Lettuce, a cool-season vegetable crop, is one of the easiest
to grow.  Lettuce withstands light frost; however, sunlight and
high summer temperatures usually cause seed stalk formation
("bolting") and bitter flavors.  Slow-bolting or heat-resistant
varieties are available and are recommended for extending the
lettuce-growing season.

     There are several types of lettuce commonly grown in
gardens:

     Crisphead, also known as iceberg, is the lettuce most widely
available as a fresh market type.  It has a tightly compacted
head with crisp, light green leaves.  Many gardeners find this
type difficult to grow because it requires a long season and some
of the most advertised varieties are not heat-resistant and tend
to go to seed as soon as temperatures go up.  Select a slow-
bolting variety and start seed indoors in late winter or late
summer for best results.  Transplant in early spring or fall to
take advantage of cool weather and mulch well to keep soil
temperatures from fluctuating and to hold moisture in.  An
organic mulch is more suitable than black plastic after soil
warms up.  Mulching also keeps soil off the leaves, reducing
chances of disease from soil-borne organisms.

     Butterhead, or Bibb, lettuce is a loose-heading type with
dark green leaves that are somewhat thicker than those of iceberg
lettuce.  Butterheads develop a light yellow, "buttery"
appearance and are very attractive in salads.  A miniature
variety of butterhead, "Tom Thumb," is very easy to grow,
requiring a short growing time; one head of this lettuce is about
right for one or two servings, so this is one lettuce to plant in
succession, about two weeks apart.  It may be started indoors for
an even longer season.  Bibb lettuce will develop bitterness
readily if temperatures get too high.

     Romaine, or Cos, is less commonly grown by gardeners, but is
a very nutritious lettuce that deserves more attention.  It, too,
is relatively easy to grow, forming upright heads with rather
wavy, attractive leaves.

     Most gardeners who grow lettuce raise the leaf type, either
with green or reddish leaves.  This type is fast-growing, long-
lasting lettuce used for salads, sandwiches, and in the popular
"wilted lettuce" recipe.  Leaf lettuce basically needs only to be
planted and harvested.

     Sow leaf varieties in rows, 10-20 seeds per foot, in rows 8-
12 inches apart.  Thin individual plants 4-8 inches apart,
depending on variety.  Leaf lettuce also grows very successfully
in a wide bed arrangement; seedlings are thinned to 4-8 inches on
all sides.  Cos and head types should be sown or transplanted 12-
18 inches apart.  If in rows, allow 30 inches between rows.

     Cultivate carefully as lettuce is shallow-rooted.  Use
frequent, light waterings to encourage rapid growth, but do not
overwater, as this may cause disease of roots or leaves.
Overhead watering should always be done in the morning to give
plants time to dry off.  As mentioned above, mulches are helpful
in maintaining soil moisture and keeping leaves off the ground.

     Lettuce planted in very early spring should be given full
sun so that the soil will warm enough for rapid growth.  For
long-season lettuces, plant so that crops such as sweet corn,
staked tomatoes, pole beans or deciduous trees will shade the
lettuce during the hottest part of the day when temperatures are
over 70 degrees.  Inter-planting, i.e., planting between rows or
within the row of later-maturing crops like tomatoes, broccoli,
and Brussels sprouts, is a space-saving practice.  Some lettuces,
like "Tom Thumb" and leaf lettuces, are attractive in flower
borders.

     Lettuce is best planted in succession, or using different
varieties that mature at different times.  Thirty heads of
iceberg lettuce harvested at once can present a major storage
problem!  Leaf and Bibb lettuces do well in hotbeds or
greenhouses during the winter and in cold frames in spring and
late fall.

-End-
-Title-
Okra
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                              Okra

     Okra is one of the oldest and best known vegetables grown in
southern gardens.  Its popularity probably results from its use
in soups and gumbos and its ability to tolerate a wide range of
soil and hot weather conditions.

     The tough seed coat on okra slows its germination, so you
may want to soak seed overnight before planting. Warm soil is
essential for seed germination.

     Okra can be planted from early April through July.  Prepare
beds a week or two before you plant.  Apply two to three pounds
of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of row.  After harvesting the
first few pods, side-dress the row with one-half to three-fourths
pint of ammonium nitrate or an equivalent source of nitrogen.  A
second sidedressing may be needed about four to six weeks after
the first one.  If one is needed, use one-half pound of ammonium
nitrate for each 100 feet of row for each sidedressing.  Okra is
sensitive to high amounts of nitrogen and will stop setting pods
if over-fertilized.  Be sure to withhold the sidedressing until
fruiting begins.

     Plant okra seed one-half inch deep.  Thin the plants to 12
inches apart.  Keep cultivation shallow, about one inch deep, to
remove competing weeds and to prevent injury to the shallow-
growing okra roots.

     Okra plants that are constantly harvested and cared for will
continue to bear until frost.  Harvest pods every other day while
they are tender.  If pods are left to mature on the plant, the
plants will stop producing new pods.  Pods that bend without
snapping are too tough to eat.  When harvesting pods for seed,
pick them when thoroughly dry.
-End-
-Title-
Onions
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Onions

     Onions are often grouped according to taste.  The two main
types of onions are strong flavored (American) and mild (often
called European).  Each has three distinct colors--yellow, white,
and red.  In general, the American onion produces bulbs of
smaller size, denser texture, stronger flavor, and better keeping
quality than European types.  Globe varieties tend to keep longer
in storage.

     Onion varieties also have different requirements as to the
number of hours of daylight required to make a bulb.  If the seed
catalog lists the onion as long day, it sets bulbs when it
receives 15-16 hours of daylight and is used to produce onions in
Northern summers.  Short day varieties set bulbs with about 12
hours of daylight and are used in the deep South for winter
production.

     Use sets, seeds or transplants in spring for bulbs and for
green or bunching onions.  Seeds may be started indoors eight
weeks before setting out.  Use sets in the fall for perennial or
multiplier types of onions.  Avoid sets more than an inch in
diameter because they are likely to produce seed stalks.  Too
early planting and exposure to cold temperatures also causes seed
stalk development.  Some people have best bulb production using
seedlings or transplants rather than sets.

     Onion seeds have a hard seed coat.  Plant them shallowly,
about one-eighth inch deep.  Shallow cultivation is necessary due
to shallow root systems.  Do not hill up soil on onions as this
can encourage stem rot.

     You may want to cover the seed with a light-weight potting
soil, compost, vermiculite or similar material.  Keep the soil
moist so the seed coat will soften and the seed will germinate.
It may take up to two weeks for the seed to germinate.  Seeds can
be planted in the row and then thinned to the desired three to
four inches between plants.  Or, they can be planted thickly in a
bed and then transplanted to a row.  Or, they can be grown in
wide rows evenly spaced over a bed three feet wide.  About four
to six inches on all sides of an onion plant are sufficient for
it to grow normally.

     Soil on which onions are to be grown should be fertilized
with four to five pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of
row before planting.  Use starter solution for transplants, and
sidedress one to two weeks after bulb enlargement begins (three
tablespoons 33-0-0 per 10 feet of row).

     Onions should be harvested when about two-thirds of the tops
have fallen over.  Careful handling to avoid bruising helps
control storage rots.  Onions may be pulled and left in the field
for several days to dry then cured in a well-ventilated attic or
porch for one to two weeks out of direct sun.  Leave at least one
inch of the top on when storing.  Thorough curing will increase
storage life.
-End-
-Title-
Southern Peas
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                          Southern Peas

     Southern peas are also called cowpeas, field peas, purple
hulls and crowders.  The crop is popular in warm areas.  It
produces large amounts of an edible product on a fairly small
space and it's easy to produce.  Peas are high in nutrients,
especially protein, and are easy to can or freeze.

     The southern pea group contains several types of plant, pod
and seed color characteristics.  The main ones are the black-eyed
types, the purple hull types and the cream types.  Within each
type, there can be crowders.  This means simply that the seeds
are crowded together in the pod.

     Southern peas grow best in warm weather, so delay spring
plantings until the soil has warmed to 60 degrees or more for
several days in a row.  Southern peas are subject to root rots in
cold, wet soils.  After the soil has warmed to a suitable
temperature, you can plant through the first week of July.
Staggered planting dates will give longer harvest periods.

     Southern peas have the ability to capture atmospheric
nitrogen and convert it into a form the plant can use which is
useful to crops that follow it in the garden as the nitrogen is
released after the roots decompose.  Apply two pounds of a
complete fertilizer for each 100 feet of row.  On highly fertile
river bottom soils, little or no fertilizer will be needed.
Over-fertilization will cause Southern peas to make a lot of vine
and few pods.

     Southern peas may also be grown to improve soil fertility
and structure.  When peas are grown for this purpose, work the
plants into the soil when they begin to bloom.

     You can use Southern peas dry or fresh.  They also make an
excellent frozen or canned vegetable.
-End-
-Title-
Peppers
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Peppers

     Peppers are a popular crop in the home garden.  They are
high in vitamin C, low in calories and are a tasty seasoning.

     Peppers generally have a long growing season and suffer slow
growth during cool periods.  Therefore, set out transplants after
soil has thoroughly warmed in the spring.  Start seed indoors six
to eight weeks prior to this date.

     In heavy soil, develop well-hilled, high rows for good
drainage and aeration.  Before planting, chop in two pounds of
10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet.  To extend the growing
season, sidedress fertilizer after first fruit set with no more
than one pound of 10-10-10 per 100 feet of row and about every
four weeks thereafter.  Be careful not to over-fertilize,
especially if soil is rich.  Over-fertilizing will cause flower
drop and loss of fruit set.  Hot summer weather will cause flower
drop or the formation of small, distorted fruit.  Don't let the
peppers develop until the bush has gained some size or it may not
grow any larger.  You may need to pinch off a few of the peppers
until the bush gets a little larger.  Mulching can help conserve
water and reduce weeds.

     You can harvest sweet peppers at any stage of growth.  They
are still good to eat after they turn red.  To get maximum yields
from sweet peppers, harvest while still green.  This stimulates
the plant to continue flowering and producing new fruits.
However, allowing the fruit to mature and turn red increases the
vitamin A and C content.  Cut instead of pulling to avoid
breaking branches.  Entire plants can be pulled and hung just
before full frost.  Some varieties are yellow or golden.  Pick
hot peppers when they have turned to the desired color for that
variety.  There are many good sweet peppers and good hot peppers
that come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors.

     Most peppers are classified according to their degree of hot
or mild flavor.  The mild peppers include Bell, Banana, Pimiento
and Sweet Cherry while the hot peppers include the Cayenne,
Celestial, Large Cherry, and Tabasco.

     Bell peppers, measuring three inches wide by four inches
long, usually have three to four lobes and a blocky appearance.
They are commonly harvested when green, yet turn red or yellow
when fully ripe.  About 200 varieties are available.  Banana
peppers are long and tapering and harvested when yellow, orange,
or red.  Pimiento is a conical, two to three inch wide by four
inch long, thick walled fruit.  Most Pimientos are used when red
and fully ripe.  Cherry peppers vary in size and flavor.  Usually
they are harvested orange to deep red.

     Slim, pointed, slightly twisted fruits characterize the hot
Cayenne pepper group.  These can be harvested either when green
or red.



-End-
-Title-
Potatoes
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                            Potatoes

     Both white-skinned and red-skinned potatoes can be grown as
an early crop for new potatoes and as a late crop for storage.
Choose an early maturing variety and a medium-to-late maturing
variety.  Plant potatoes early, from March 15 to April 20,
depending on your location.  Hard frosts and freezes may set back
growth.  Potatoes prefer cool springs and moisture throughout the
growing season.  Crops can be successfully planted as late as
June for fall harvest and storage, but yield may be reduced.

     A soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5 is most desirable.  In addition to
the base application of fertilizer, add about one-fourth pound of
10-20-10 for each 75 foot row.  Work this into the furrow and mix
with the soil before planting.  Avoid a garden site in a turned-
under lawn as grub worms may damage developing tubers unless soil
insecticides are used.

     When preparing your garden for potatoes, build a high bed so
the water will drain well and the potatoes will have some loose
soil to grow in.  Build rows about three feet apart.

     As you get ready to plant, cut seed potatoes into pieces
about the size of an egg and be sure each piece has at least one
eye.  The eye is where the plant gets its start.  Seed potatoes
should be firm and unsprouted.

     If the temperature of the soil is below 65 degrees, hold the
cut potatoes at room temperature for three or four days.  This
will encourage wound tissue to form over the cuts and help
protect the potatoes from diseases after they are planted.

     When you plant the seed, space them about 12 to 15 inches
apart in the row with the cut-side down.  Plant about 15 pounds
of seed potatoes per person in your household.  Plant the seed
pieces three to five inches deep.  Later crops should be planted
five to six inches deep.

     You should begin to see plants break through the soil in
three or four weeks.  In about 100 to 120 days from the time you
planted the seed, you should be able to dig potatoes.  As the
potatoes grow, cultivation should be shallow to avoid root
damage.

     Dig early potatoes when tubers are large enough to eat.
Harvest potatoes for storage two weeks after the vines die down
or just after the first light frost nips the vines, before heavy
freezing.  Avoid skinning tubers when digging and avoid long
exposure to light.
-End-
-Title-
Pumpkins and Winter Squash
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                   Pumpkins and Winter Squash

     If you're considering winter squash or pumpkins for your
home garden, the first decision you'll need to make is whether or
not there's enough room.

     Neither fits well into the average size home garden because
the plants become too large.

     If your decision is to plant, then you've selected a crop
that is easy to grow and one that fairs well in a variety of
soils.

     Pumpkins and winter squash prefer loose, well-drained
organic soil; however, they fare well in almost any soil that is
re-worked with compost and fertilizer.  For sandy or clayish
soil, dig the beds to the depth of your shovel blade, break up
all clumps of dirt and mix two inches of compost into the soil.

      Spacing between hills and rows will depend on the type of
plant selected.  Bush varieties are popular for smaller gardens
because they require less space than vine plants.  Three feet is
the number to remember when you're planting bush varieties.
Allow three feet between rows and plant two or three seed in
hills spaced three feet apart.  Add two pounds of 10-10-10
fertilizer per 100 square feet.

     For vine plants, use beds six feet wide.  Plant two or three
seed in hills four feet apart and use two pounds of 10-10-10
fertilizer per 100 square feet.  Sidedress with the same
fertilizer when the bush plants reach a foot in height and when
the vine variety lays down and begins to run.

     Bees are needed for pollination, so spray insecticides in
the late afternoon or early evening.

     Although pumpkins and winter squash can be harvested while
tender and cooked like summer squash, it's best if they're
allowed to mature to a tough skin on the vine.  A harder skin
will allow the fruit to store better.  Harvest when the fruits
turn a deep, solid color and the rind hardens.  Allow to ripen on
the vine.  Harvest after the vine dries up before heavy frost.
Cut the stem two to three inches from the vine as fruit without a
stem tends not to store well.
-End-
-Title-
Shallots
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                            Shallots

     If you'd like to have a supply of green onions almost year
round, grow shallots in your garden.  Shallots, a member of the
onion family, have the ability to divide into a clump of several
plants from one bulb or set.

     For fall planting in warmer areas, use the dry sets.  These
are generally available at local garden centers or seed stores.
Plant the dry sets in August and September.  They'll be ready to
harvest in 50 to 60 days.  In cooler regions, plant sets one to
two inches deep in early spring.

     Shallots like a rich, loose soil; mix plenty of compost,
decomposed manure or other organic matter into bed before
planting.  If shallots for planting are sold in clumps, divide
into individual sets (bulbs) before planting.  Plant as soon as
soil can be worked in spring.  Plant with pointed tip up; tip
should be just below soil line or barely poking through.  Mulch
or cultivate to keep weeds from competing for moisture.  Shallot
roots are shallow so cultivation must be carried out with care.
Shallot bulbs develop on top of ground.  Do not cover with soil.

     Shallots have a mild flavor prized by gourmets, and are
often used in the green onion stage, but bulbs may also be used.
Pull green shallots when they are about one-fourth inch in
diameter and store in a cold, moist place for short periods.
Mature, dry bulbs are dug after the tops die back, usually in
mid- to late summer.  Cure in a warm, dry place for about a week.
Store in mesh bags in cool, dry conditions.  Replant the smaller
bulbs or use them first since they will not keep as well.

-End-
-Title-
Vegetable Soybeans
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Vegetable Soybeans

     Rising food prices have fostered a lot of interest in
soybeans.  Soybeans are high in protein, minerals and vitamins.
They can be substituted in part for higher priced meats and fish.
Whole soybeans have a high oil content, but it is mostly removed
in the manufacturing process for soybean products.

     Soybeans are easy to grow.  Insect and disease problems are
seldom severe.  Grow soybeans where you've had success with snap
beans and sweet corn.  You'll be able to grow both field and
vegetable varieties, but green vegetable varieties are preferred
because of their larger seed size, tenderness and flavor.
Soybeans are not commonly cultivated because of large space
demand.

     Most seed catalogs feature vegetable soybean seed in packet
sizes for home gardeners.

     Soybeans prefer sandy loam soils, but they can be grown on
heavier textured soils if drainage is adequate.  Soil pH should
be 6.0 to 7.0.  A moderately fertile soil is best.  Too much
nitrogen may delay pod formation.  In non-manured gardens, use
about a pound of 6-24-24 fertilizer for 100 feet of row.  Apply
the fertilizer evenly down the center of the row and work it into
the soil.  Over-fertilization will cause blossoms to drop before
fruit is set.

     Plant the crop in rows 28 to 32 inches apart.  Space seed
four to five inches apart in the row and plant them one inch
deep.  For a succession of crops, plant soybeans at 10-day
intervals beginning in April and continuing through June.  Fresh
green beans should be ready for eating about two months after
seeding.

     Control weeds by cultivating shallowly soon after seedlings
emerge.  Continue cultivation throughout the growing season if
necessary.  Insect and disease problems will be similar to those
affecting snap beans and lima beans, so use the same control
measures.  Rabbits like soybeans, and you may need to fence them
out.

     Soybeans are ready for harvest when the pods are plump and
the seeds have just reached full size but are still completely
green.  Pods at this stage are green or just turning yellowish-
green.  Don't delay harvesting until the beans begin to dry.
This will reduce their tenderness.  You can pick the pods in the
garden or cut the plants off and remove the pods elsewhere.

     Pods are shelled best by pouring boiling water over them or
by blanching.  Let them remain in the hot water for about five
minutes, then drain and cool.  Break the pods crosswise and
squeeze the beans out.  Cook them like you cook fresh peas or
lima beans.  Soybeans do not soften like peas or limas, however,
and will retain a nutty texture.  One caution, don't eat soybeans
before they're cooked.  They're mildly harmful when large amounts
are eaten raw.
-End-
-Title-
Spinach
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Spinach

     A relative of beets and Swiss chard, spinach is a hardy,
cool season crop that can survive temperatures of 20 degrees
Fahrenheit without injury.  On the other hand, high temperatures
and long days cause spinach to bolt to seed, making it less
desirable.  In general, it is a short season crop, maturing in
about six to ten weeks, depending on planting dates and climate.

     Spinach is very sensitive to strongly acid soils, that is,
soils with a pH below 5.5.  On strongly acid soils, it will be
stunted and yield little or nothing.  For satisfactory growth,
add lime to the soil to bring the pH to at least 6.0.

     Recommended varieties are Melody and Virginia Savoy Hybrid.
     To fertilize spinach, apply three to four pounds of a
complete fertilizer like 5-10-10 per 100 feet of row.  Apply
several days before planting.  Sidedress with about one-half
pound of ammonium nitrate for each 100 feet of row about one
month after planting.

     The seeding rate is about one-fourth ounce of seed for a 100
foot row.  The seedling will look like a beet when it sprouts.
Thin the plants to about six inches apart within the row.  If you
have trouble getting spinach seed to germinate, mix the seed with
a moistened potting soil and pre-germinate them in a can or jar
for two or three days, then plant them in the row.

     When harvesting spinach, cut the whole plant at the soil
level.  If you want a second harvest, cut the outer leaves just
above the soil line and the plant will renew its growth from the
center.  As soon as three or four leaves appear after the first
cutting, cut the plant back again.
-End-
-Title-

                          Summer Squash
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-

                          Summer Squash

     Summer squash is harvested when young and tender.  These
warm-season vegetables can be grown from spring to frost.  They
are easy to grow, very productive and fit well into urban
gardens.  You'll need to plant only two plants for each person in
your family.

     Most summer squash are bushy.  The yellow butter types come
in straight neck or crookneck varieties.  Recommended straight
neck varieties include Goldbar and Butterbar.  Patty Pans are
shaped like tops and have scalloped edges.

     Summer squash thrives in soil that is well drained, loose
and high in organic matter, but it will grow in almost any soil
that is well prepared.  Clay and sandy soils should have lots of
compost worked into them to make them loose.  Work the soil when
it's moist, not wet or dry.  Be sure to break all clumps.

     Loosen soil with a shovel and go down 8 to 10 inches.  Add a
two-inch layer of compost and use the shovel to mix it with the
soil.  Apply one cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer for every 15 feet of
row.  Rows should be three feet wide.  Sidedress the plants when
they are about a foot tall for bushy types, or when they begin to
lay down and run for vining types.  Use one-half teaspoon of
ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate per plant, and water it in
well.  Sidedress again about a month later.

     Plant a few seeds every three feet on rows three feet apart.
When they come up, thin plants so there are only one or two
plants every three feet.  Pick fruit regularly to keep plants
producing well.  Don't wait longer than two or three days between
pickings.

     Cultivate often and shallowly to control weeds.  Or, better
still, use black plastic or leaves for a mulch.  Few weeds will
emerge, and you'll have less work.

     Summer squash are related to cucumbers, watermelons and
gourds.  They produce both male and female flowers on the same
plant.  Honeybees carry pollen from the male flowers to pollinate
the female flowers, so don't kill bees.  If you use insecticides
to control chewing insects, use it late in the afternoon when
bees have stopped flying.  Insecticides can kill bees, too.
-End-
-Title-
Swiss Chard
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                           Swiss Chard

     Swiss chard can be grown easily in most gardens.  This
green, cool season vegetable has good heat resistance, too, so
it's almost a year-round vegetable.

     Seeds or young plants can be planted in late winter and
spring.  Chard will produce fresh greens even through the summer.
It's an excellent choice for small gardens.

     The large, fleshy leaf stalks can be white or red, with
broad, crisp, green leaf blades.  The leaf blades can be cooked
like spinach or other greens, and the midribs or stalks can be
cooked like asparagus.  In many ways, Swiss chard is similar to
Chinese cabbage.  It's an attractive plant and can be planted in
ornamental flower beds because it's so pretty.  But, if you want
Swiss chard, you'll have to grow it.  It's not available in most
markets.

     To extend the harvest of Swiss chard, pick only the largest
leaves instead of the entire plant.  Do not allow leaves to reach
full maturity as they become tough and new growth is reduced.

     Soil preparation and fertilization of Swiss chard are easy.
Loosen the soil with a shovel.  Dig 8 to 10 inches deep, or as
deep as the shovel will go.  Add a two-inch layer of compost and
mix it with the soil.  Be sure to break up all clumps.  Work the
soil when it is moist, not too wet or dry.

     Put down one cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer for each 15 feet of
row.  Put it where the rows will be and rake up the row on top of
it.  Make raised beds so that the 10-10-10 is under them.  Make
rows three feet wide.  Sidedress the plants when they are about 6
to 8 inches tall, using one-half teaspoon of ammonium nitrate or
ammonium sulfate for each plant.  Water it in well.  Sidedress
regularly, about every four to six weeks.  This will keep plants
growing well for a long time.

     Plant seeds thick, then cook the greens that you thin out.
Seeds do best if they're planted about one-fourth to one-half
inch deep, with about 8 to 10 seeds per foot.  After thinning,
the young plants should be about 9 to 12 inches apart.  If you're
setting out transplants, space them about 9 to 12 inches apart.

     Cultivate often and shallowly.  Better still, control weeds
by using mulches--leaves, thick layers of newspapers or other
organic mulches.  If a few weeds come up, you can pull them while
they're still small.

     If you're thinking of planting Swiss chard this year,
consider the following varieties:  Red Midrib, Burgundy, Ruby,
Rhubard, White Midrib, Fordhook Giant, Geneve, Large White
Broadrib and Perpetual.
-End-
-Title-
Tomatoes
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                            Tomatoes

     Tomatoes are excellent vegetables for gardeners.  Only a
few, well-cared for plants will produce tomatoes for a long time.
You'll need only two or three plants for each member in the
family.  One plant can produce five or six pounds of fruit.

     Tomatoes are warm season, tender vegetables, so plant them
after danger of frost has passed.

     Tomatoes need a well-drained soil with plenty of organic
matter.  Both clay and sandy soils can be improved by adding
generous amounts of compost or well-rotted manure to them.  This
organic matter will help keep the clay soil loose and make sandy
soil able to hold water that you apply.  Also, as it breaks down,
the organic matter provides some nutrients.

     Loosen the soil with a garden fork.  Go as deep as the fork
will go--8 to 10 inches.  Add a two-inch layer of compost, mix
with the soil, and break up all clumps.  Work when the soil is
moist, not wet or dry.  Put down one cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer
for each 15 feet of row.  Apply fertilizer where you will build
rows.  Make raised beds so that the 10-10-10 is under them.
Plant transplants two feet apart in the row.  When the first
tomatoes begin to swell, sidedress with two pounds of 10-10-10
per 100 feet of row.  Repeat every four weeks.

     If you use black plastic as a mulch, just punch or cut a
hole in the plastic and set the plants in place.  Firm the soil
around roots.  If the transplants are too tall, remove the leaves
from the lower one-third of the stem and bury the stem
horizontally two inches deep.

     Stake plants upright with five or six-foot stakes while they
are still small.  Fasten the vines to the stakes by looping the
vines with cloth or cord.  Don't use string and don't bind the
vines.  Prune side branches to a height of one to two feet.
Then, let them bush.  Or use cages to contain the plant upright.

     Water is important for tomato production.  Water your
tomatoes every five to eight days if they don't get at least an
inch of rain per week.  Water by flooding or trickle irrigation.
If you must water with a sprinkler, water early in the morning so
plants will dry quickly.

     Tomatoes come in several sizes, shapes and colors, depending
on the variety.  Some varieties can develop large fruit under
favorable conditions.  Others, such as the small cherry or patio
tomatoes, develop only small fruit.  These small fruited
varieties set better during the hot months than large fruited
varieties.

-End-
-Title-
Greens
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Greens

     Greens are popular vegetables for home garden.  They are
easy to grow and produce a good return for the amount of space
they occupy.  Greens that can be planted in the fall include
mustard, collards, spinach, kale, and turnip.

     A short, but active, growing season characterizes most
greens.  Rapid growth occurs if greens have a good supply of
plant nutrients and ample moisture.

     Since each of these vegetables is small-seeded, you will
need to prepare a good seed bed to insure good contact between
the soil and the seed.  Mustard and turnip seed may be scattered
over the bed and raked in or planted in several closely spaced
rows.  If plants are too crowded, thin them.  Use the thinned
plants as greens.

     Kale, which is like collards but smaller, should be spaced
about six inches apart at its final thinning.  Space spinach
about three or four inches apart.

     Greens will grow on a fairly wide range of soil pH.  On
highly acid soil, add enough lime to bring the pH to 6.0.
Fertilize these crops at the rate of three or four pounds of a
complete fertilizer for each 100 feet of row on soils of medium
to low fertility.

     On highly fertile soils, you may need to apply only one-half
pound of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row.  If plant leaves
begin to yellow, sidedress again with one-half pound of ammonium
nitrate per 100 feet or row.

     For tender greens, harvest when the leaves are young.
-End-
-Title-
Why Plants Fail to Set Fruit
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Why Plants Fail to Set Fruit

     Many gardeners will worry about plants that fail to set
fruit or plants that produce only poorly developed fruit this
summer.

     In most cases, the weather, not the gardener, is to blame.
For fruit to set on a healthy plant, pollen must be transferred
from the anther to the stigma of the flower.  Then it must go
quickly down into the ovary and fertilize an egg cell.  This
activity results in the formation of one seed.

     The natural development of fruit depends on seed
development.  When you think about all the seeds found in a
tomato, you realize a lot of fertilization must occur.
Otherwise, the flower may drop off, the plant may not set fruit,
or irregular-shaped fruit will develop.

     Many things affect pollination and fertilization.
Unfavorable daytime temperatures, which means temperatures above
90 degrees Fahrenheit or below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, or
nighttime temperatures in the mid-70s may cause sterile pollen or
irregular pollen growth for tomatoes and other crops resulting in
poor seed development.  Low light, too much nitrogen, too little
potassium or manganese, low humidity and low temperatures may
cause irregular flower or pollen development.  This may lead to a
blockage of fertile pollen transfer and irregular growth of the
fruit.

     Plant corn in blocks or groupings.  It is wind-pollinated,
and several short rows together are better than one or two long
rows.  Grouped plants can help pollinate each other.  Squash and
the vining cucurbit crops have separate male and female blossoms.
They are pollinated by bees, so be sure to use insecticides
carefully.  Use them in the late afternoon when bee activity is
low.  Also, before you decide you have a squash pollination
problem, check to see if both male and female flowers are present
by looking at the base of the flower just below the petal.  On
female flowers, this area is noticeably swollen.
-End-
-Title-
Caterpillars--Tent, Webworm, Walnut
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
               Caterpillars--Tent, Webworm, Walnut

     The first signs of spring are the webbings of the eastern
tent caterpillar in the crotches of cherry and willow trees.
These webbings get larger as the worms grow larger.  The eastern
tent caterpillar is velvety brown with a yellow line down its
back and long yellow hairs over its body.

     Its first cousin, the forest tent caterpillar, has a blue
head and body and a series of yellow keyhole shaped spots down
its back.  Unlike the eastern tent, the forest tent builds no
web, but moves around in large masses on sweet gums and oaks.
Both of these caterpillars live through the winter as an egg.
The eggs are laid the summer before and look like a shiny brown
crystalline mass around the small stems of host trees.

     The walnut caterpillar feeds on pecan, walnut and other
trees which lose their leaves in the winter.  The larva of the
walnut caterpillar are black with gray lines and covered with a
lot of long, gray hairs.  The immature larvae are reddish-brown
with yellow lines that run the length of the body.  They usually
move in mass and feed and hang on branches in large clusters.

     The fall webworm has two or more generations, but the first
one usually goes unnoticed.  The later generations build large
webs in pecan and other hardwood trees.  The larva has a black
head and is pale yellow to gray or brown.  The fall webworm lives
through the winter as pupae in the soil with adults emerging in
the spring as a small white moth.

     You should try to control these caterpillars in the late
afternoon or early evening with insecticides.
-End-
-Title-
Slugs and Snails
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                        Slugs and Snails

     Slugs and snails are members of the mollusk family and can
be a problem around the house and garden because they eat plants
and leave glistening trails of slime wherever they crawl.  Also,
their soft bodies and slimy appearance make them repulsive to
some people.

     Both slugs and snails have soft, fleshy, legless bodies that
vary in color from light tan to black--most are mottled with
shades of gray.  Their eyes are carried on the ends of stalks or
appendages on their head.  They move slowly and grow to between
one-half inch and four inches long.

     Slugs and snails need moisture to survive.  Normally, they
hide during the day to avoid the sun.  So, you're likely to find
them under pieces of wood, pottery, bricks, plants and heavy
mulches.  They're active, generally, at night or on damp, cloudy
days.

     Slugs and snails feed on leaves, flowers, stems or roots of
plants by scraping off the tissue or eating holes in the leaves
or flowers.  Their slime trails remain for days on the rocks,
plants and buildings they crawl over.

     You can control slugs and snails by trapping and collecting
them from under boards or flower pots set out to attract them, by
collecting them from plants at night, or by using commercially
prepared baits.  Use these baits after a rain or after you water
your plants.  This is when the slugs and snails are more active.

     One other method of controlling slugs and snails is the beer
trap.  Put a pint jar or aluminum pie pan in the ground so that
the upper lip is flush with the soil.  Pour beer in the container
until it's about half full.  Several slices of banana may be
added to make it more attractive.  Snails and slugs really like
beer and they will crawl into the beer and drown.
-End-
-Title-
Aphids
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                             Aphids

     Aphids are one of the most diverse groups of insects around
because they attack many different kinds of plants and cause
several different kinds of damage.  Plants infested with aphids
can be stunted, dwarfed, deformed, infected with disease or
killed.  Aphids appear as soon as you begin to plant or as plants
begin to sprout.

     Most aphids have been given names that associate them with
the plant they most often attack, for instance, the rusty plum
aphid, the rosy apple aphid, the wooly apple aphid, the green
peach aphid, the potato aphid or the cabbage aphid.  Aphids are
not very large.  The smallest one is the cabbage aphid and it's
about the size of bird shot, but they go on up to the largest
which is the giant bark aphid.  This is the aphid you're likely
to find on oaks and other shade trees in the fall and early
spring when the weather is cool.

     Aphids can feed on any part of a plant by using its
piercing, sucking mouthparts to get the nutrients out of plants.
As the aphids feed, they take in more than they can use and the
excess is excreted as a sticky substance called honeydew.  This
honeydew causes two problems.  First, it attracts ants and wasps
and, second, it promotes the growth of a fungi called sooty mold.
Sooty mold usually looks like a black mat that may cover the
entire leaf surface.

     Many insecticides are labeled for aphids depending on what
crop or plant they are on.  Be sure to follow the label
instructions when applying insecticides.

-End-
-Title-
Scale Insects
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                          Scale Insects

     Scale insects represent about 75 to 80 percent of the
problems that occur on ornamental plants.  Scale insects are
extremely devastating to many plants and they multiply rapidly.
Once they infest a plant, they're difficult to control.

     Many people believe that spraying plants for scale insects
once or twice a season is enough to control the pests.  While
this is possible, it's not very likely.  Usually, those scales
which are the most trouble produce several generations in one
season.

     As an example of just how devastating scale insects can be,
listen to this example of how they can reproduce.  One female of
the white peach scale can lay about 80 eggs.  They can go through
about five generations a year.  Assuming that only half of each
generation is female, at the end of a single season one female
can have offspring that number more than 260,000.  The point is,
they can get out of hand before you know it.

     Check your plants periodically.  Look closely and pay
particular attention to anything that seems out of place on the
stems, branches and foliage.  It's important that you find scale
insects and control them before they begin to develop and
reproduce.

     Here's what to look for.  Scales are tiny insects that feed
with a piercing, sucking mouthpart like aphids.  The most common
one is the mealybug.  This group of scales is very mobile and
capable of walking from one plant to another at any time.

     However, most scales are not very mobile except when they
first hatch from the eggs.  At that point, they may be blown by
the wind to other plants or carried to other plants on the feet
of birds.

     Scales usually leave a white powdery, waxy layer on the
stems.  You can also recognize scales by the crusty appearance
they give various plants when there are large numbers of them on
the plant.  Also, the excessive wax excretion or secretion of
some scales like the Florida wax scale make them readily
noticeable.

     How you control scale insects depends on the kind of scale
it is and what kind of plant the insect in on.  Several
insecticides, including oils, will work for control of scale
insects.  Be sure to read the label and follow instructions when
applying insecticides.
-End-
-Title-
How Dangerous are Pesticides?
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  How Dangerous are Pesticides?

     When a word ends with the letters i-c-i-d-e, the word means
to kill.  A pesticide is something, usually a chemical, which
kills pests.  Because pesticides are formulated to kill, they
are, by their very nature, toxic and some of them are hazardous
to people.

     The term pesticide is a general category with a large number
of subcategories.  For example, an insecticide kills insects, a
herbicide kills plants, a miticide kills mites, and a rodenticide
kills rodents.

     There are some other chemicals which control pests and are
classified as pesticides but they don't have the letters i-c-i-
d-e at the end of their names.  For example, a repellent will
keep away pests, an attractant will lure pests, a plant growth
regulator stops, speeds up, or otherwise changes normal plant
processes, and desiccants and defoliants are harvest aid
chemicals used to remove or kill leaves and stems.

     Pesticides can also be grouped according to what they do.
Many work in more than one way.  Read the label to find out what
the one you plan to use does.

     Here are some of the ways pesticides work.  Contact
pesticides kill pests simply by coming in contact with them.
Stomach poisons kill by being swallowed by the pest.  Systemics
kill pests by being taken into the blood of the animal or sap of
the plant on which the pest is feeding.  Translocated herbicides
are pesticides which kill plants by being absorbed by leaves,
stems, or roots and moving throughout the plant.  Fumigants are
gases which kill when they are inhaled or otherwise absorbed by
the pests.  Selective pesticides are those which kill certain
kinds of plants or animals whereas non-selective pesticides are
those which kill most plants or animals.

     You can tell how toxic a pesticide is by reading the signal
word and symbol on the label.  The signal word "Danger" means
that the product is highly toxic.  You will find the skull and
crossbones and the word "Poison" on the label of these products.
Rarely are the pesticides in this toxicity category available for
home use.

     The signal word "Warning" means that the product is
moderately toxic.  The signal word "Caution" means that the
pesticide has a low toxicity or is comparatively free from
danger.

     There is a statement of practical treatment or first aid
directions on the label of every pesticide container.  This
statement tells you what you should do if the pesticide is
accidentally inhaled, swallowed, or brought in contact with skin.
If the product is highly toxic there will be a note to physicians
on the product label.  The pesticide label is the most important
information you can take to the physician when someone has been
poisoned.

     The label on the pesticide container is the best source of
information about that particular product.  The directions for
use will tell you (1) the crop, animal or other item the product
can be used on, (2) how the product should be applied, (3) how
much to use, (4) where the material should be applied, and (5)
when it should be applied.

     When using a pesticide, you should read the label carefully
before using it.  Don't use the pesticide and then read the
label.
-End-
-Title-
Clothes Moths and Carpet Beetles
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                Clothes Moths and Carpet Beetles

     Both clothes moths and carpet beetles infest fabrics made
from animals or fabrics which have an animal origin, primarily
wool.  However, they will infest furs, hides and anything else of
animal origin.  Clothes moths and carpet beetles cannot survive
on synthetic fabrics or cotton.  But, if clothes made from cotton
or synthetic fabrics have been worn and have not been cleaned,
sometimes the larvae of these insects will chew holes in the
fabric feeding on the particles of skin left on the clothing.

     The most effective means of controlling clothes moths and
carpet beetles in clothing is to prevent them from getting on the
clothing in the first place.  At the end of the winter season,
clean and store all woolen garments in an insect-proof storage
container.

     The adults of both the clothes moth and the carpet beetle
cannot penetrate plastic bags, paper bags, or cardboard boxes.
So, be sure to use a container made of one of these products and
one that can be sealed.  Before you put your garments in the
insect-proof container, add some moth balls, moth crystals or
napthylene crystals.  These crystals don't kill the insects, but
they do repel them and keep them from entering the storage
container and laying the eggs from which the larvae develop.
After the storage container is sealed with the napthylene
crystals or moth balls inside, the garments should be safe from
insects until fall.

     If you find that some of your clothes already have an
infestation of clothes moths or carpet beetles, the garments
should be laundered or dry cleaned.  Putting the garments out in
the sun for a day will help drive away some of the insects, but
this will not kill larvae in the clothing and these could still
grow to be adult moths and beetles.

     Also, you can use a no-pest strip containing the insecticide
Vapona.  If you use the no-pest strip, hang it up and seal the
closet for several days, allowing the fumes from the strip to
penetrate all the areas of the closet, killing the remaining
larvae and adults.
-End-
-Title-
Pantry Pests
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                          Pantry Pests

     Several kinds of insects can infest food in your pantry.
Foods such as rice, corn, wheat, oats, barley and other grain-
type foods are quite susceptible to infestations by the Indian
mealmoth, Angoumois grain moth, cigarette beetle, drugstore
beetle, saw-tooth grain beetle, flat grain beetle, red flour
beetle, and several others.

     All of these insects are controlled the same way.  The first
thing you should do is determine the source of the infestation.
If you have a lot of beetles in one cabinet, it usually means
that something in that cabinet is heavily infested.  Find the
source of the infestation and remove it because it won't do any
good to use an insecticide unless you find and remove that
source.  Once the source of the infestation has been removed, the
problem will eliminate itself.  Use a vacuum cleaner to clean
cabinets.

     If you need to take further precautions, there are two non-
chemical methods of controlling these pantry pests.  One method
is to place the remaining foods in the deep freeze at zero
degrees Fahrenheit for 48 hours.  The second method is to place
the food in the oven at 140 degrees for approximately 20 minutes.
Either of these methods will reduce and kill all stages of the
pantry pests.
-End-
-Title-
Silverfish and Earwigs
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Silverfish and Earwigs

     Silverfish and earwigs are completely unrelated insects;
however, they are two pests which are frequently found in houses.

     The silverfish is an insect which grows continually
throughout its life and feeds primarily on the glue used in book
bindings, cardboard boxes and the like.  So, the places you're
likely to have problems with silverfish are around books and
bookshelves.  Silverfish are capable of destroying books and
other valuable papers so if you find them in your house, you'll
need to control them.  Any of the so-called household
insecticides are capable of killing silverfish.

     The earwig is a different problem.  It's usually a pest in
newer subdivisions where houses have been built in what was a
wooded area.  Actually, it's not a case of the earwigs moving in
on people, but people moving in on the earwigs.

     Earwigs don't harm people.  They don't bite, sting, or
pinch.  But, they do look bad and they have an unpleasant odor
when you step on them.  Of course, they can be a nuisance when
they get inside the house.  They feed exclusively on insects and
related animals.

     Your first line of defense against earwigs should be
physically keeping the insects out of your house by blocking
areas around doors, windows and other places where they might
enter the house.

     If you see that you need to resort to chemicals, spray in
and around doorways, around patio areas, and indoors along
baseboards.
-End-
-Title-
Advantages of Breast-feeding Your Baby
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
             Advantages of Breast-feeding Your Baby

     The American Pediatric Society recommends breast-feeding for
infants because of the advantages breast-feeding offers both
mother and baby.  Because the nutrients in breast milk are easily
digested and ideally suited to a baby's needs, breast milk alone
can provide every nutrient a baby needs for the first six months
of life.  Usually, no vitamin or mineral supplements are needed,
but sometimes doctors may prescribe vitamin D and iron for some
babies, and they may urge mothers to give their breast-fed babies
fluoride supplements.

     Besides getting the nutrients they need, nursing babies also
get other health benefits.  Nursing infants have fewer
gastronomical illnesses, such as vomiting and diarrhea, and fewer
respiratory illnesses, such as colds and infections.  Breast-fed
infants also have fewer allergic reactions than do babies fed
with bottles.

     Another advantage of breast-feeding is that nursing mothers
don't have to buy, prepare and sterilize bottles and formula.
Breast-feeding also helps new mothers return to their pre-
pregnancy weights because of the extra calories needed for milk
production.

     Nursing mothers also report that the time spent breast-
feeding their babies is a special time for mother and baby.  This
closeness is another advantage of breast-feeding.

     Breast-feeding gives babies a good start on life.  It can be
a wonderful experience for mother and baby.
-End-
-Title-
Contraceptives And Nutrition
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Contraceptives And Nutrition

     Oral contraceptives have been widely used since the sixties.
With the widespread use of these medications, there has been much
interest in the possible effects of oral contraceptives on
nutritional status.

     The oral contraceptives in common use contain varying
proportions of estrogens and progestogens.  The metabolic effects
of these medications are similar in some respects to those of
pregnancy.

     Numerous studies have been done on the metabolic changes
occurring from the use of oral contraceptives, but these reports
have often been contradictory. Biochemical changes have been
shown to occur with the use of oral contraceptives, but actual
clinical signs of nutritional deficiency are rare.

     The biochemical changes are more likely to be seen in women
whose nutritional status is poor rather than in those who are
well-nourished.  Some of these changes include both increases and
decreases in body concentrations of nutrients.

     Considerable emphasis has been placed on vitamin B-6 for
oral contraceptive users.  Alterations in the metabolism of
vitamin B-6 have been shown to occur in some women using oral
contraceptives.  However, the Food and Nutrition Board of the
National Research Council did not recommend increasing the
recommended dietary allowance of vitamin B-6 for oral
contraceptive users in the most recent revision of these
guidelines.

     Evidence indicates that changes observed for vitamin B-6 and
other nutrients in contraceptive users can be reversed by
improvement of diet alone.  Routine supplements of vitamin B-6
and other nutrients do not seem to be justified.  Foods eaten in
the recommended amounts from the basic food groups, including
milk, meat, poultry, fish and beans, breads and cereals, and
fruits and vegetables, will provide the nutrients needed for good
health.
-End-
-Title-
Diet for Expectant Mothers
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                   Diet for Expectant Mothers

     When you first learn you are pregnant, you begin to think
about how you will care for your baby, how you will dress it and
how you will decorate the nursery.  The most important way you
can care for your baby before it comes, however, is to take care
of yourself and eat well.

     If you're pregnant, your nutritional needs will change as
your body changes and as your baby begins to grow.  You'll need
extra nutrients to take care of your baby's needs and for your
own body, especially if you plan to nurse your infant.  Current
research shows that expectant mothers should gain about 24 to 28
pounds during the nine months of pregnancy, so pregnancy is not
the time to diet. Pregnant women should gain about one pound a
month during the first three months and about three-fourths of a
pound a week for the last six months.

     You'll need more calories while you're pregnant, but the
extra calories should come from foods such as milk and milk
products, lean meat, poultry, fish, dried peas and beans, nuts,
fruits and vegetables, and whole grain breads and cereals.  Don't
get your extra calories from high calorie, low nutrient items
like candy, cake and soft drinks.

     During pregnancy, your body will need extra protein to help
form your baby's tissues.  Get this extra protein from milk,
cheese, meat, poultry, fish, dried peas and beans.  Eat at least
three servings every day of these protein-rich foods while you
are pregnant.

     Vitamin and mineral needs are also greater during pregnancy.
Expectant mothers should be sure to eat foods rich in vitamin C
and vitamin A.  Foods rich in vitamin C include citrus fruits,
greens and tomatoes.  Foods rich in vitamin A include carrots,
spinach and sweet potatoes.

     If you are pregnant, your blood volume will increase.  To
make red blood cells for this increased blood volume, you'll need
foods that are high in iron.  Iron-containing foods include
liver, red meats, dried peas and beans, fortified breads and
cereals, and dark green vegetables.  Eat some of these foods at
each meal.  Besides eating iron-rich foods, you'll need to eat
foods rich in vitamin C because vitamin C helps your body to use
iron more effectively.

     You'll need more calcium, too, because it is used to form
your baby's bones.  Many nutritionists tell expectant mothers to
drink a quart of milk a day.  Other milk products have calcium,
too, and you can use them to provide the calcium you need.  Some
dark green vegetables contain calcium, but the body isn't always
able to use this calcium effectively.

     Doctors often prescribe vitamin and mineral supplements just
in case the increased needs caused by pregnancy aren't met.

     If constipation is a problem while you are pregnant, eat
more high fiber foods such as fruits, vegetables and whole
grains.  Be sure to drink enough fluids, too, because fluids help
prevent constipation.

     If you are troubled by morning sickness, nausea or
heartburn, try these hints for relief:  Eat a few dry crackers
before you get out of bed in the morning.  Eat small, frequent
meals and snacks instead of three large meals a day. Drink
liquids between, rather than with, meals.

     Expectant mothers want healthy, happy babies, and good
nutrition will play a major part in helping babies get the best
possible start in life.
-End-
-Title-
Feeding Solid Foods to Babies
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Feeding Solid Foods to Babies

     Although many parents are eager for their babies to start
eating solid foods, most doctors advise parents not to start
feeding their babies solid foods until they are at least three
months old.  Some doctors want parents to wait until six months
to start babies on solids.

     Feeding babies solid foods before three months may result in
problems like allergic reactions or overweight.  When babies
start eating solid foods too early, they may fill up on food and
not drink enough milk.  This could mean they will grow slowly
because they aren't getting enough protein.  Breast milk or
formula provide all of the nutrients in the proper form, and it's
all most infants need for the first few months.

     Baby's first food is usually cereal -- rice cereal, barley
or oatmeal.  Start by feeding one or two tablespoons of cereal
mixed with formula.  Feed this mixture with a spoon, not from a
bottle or infant feeder.  Babies need to learn to eat from a
spoon.  Boxed cereals are more nutritious and less expensive than
those packaged in jars, so start your baby on boxed cereal.

     Vegetables and fruits will probably be the next foods your
baby will eat, and you can use those you prepare at home or you
can buy commercial products.  Offer only one new food to baby at
a time.  Try it for three or four days at a time so you can see
if an allergic reaction develops.  Allergic reactions include
hives, vomiting or diarrhea.  Fruit juices may be started with
fruits, but many doctors advise waiting until your baby is about
a year old to start citrus or fruit juices.

     Meats are usually started after vegetables and fruits, and
these, too, may be prepared at home or bought.  Choose single
ingredient commercial meats, not combinations, for your baby's
first meats.  Items like chicken and noodles or vegetables and
beef have less protein than single meat products.

     When your baby begins to eat solid foods, try to make
feeding time a relaxing time.  Don't try to feed other hungry
children at the same time.  You might want to give baby a little
formula or breast milk so he'll be hungry, but not starving.
Then feed solids and finish with more milk.
-End-
-Title-
Food Additives
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                         Food Additives

     Food additives are used only to maintain or to improve
quality of food or to give it some added quality that consumers
want.  The Food and Drug Administration monitors the use of
additives and allows them to be used only if proven information
has shown that the additive will accomplish the intended effect
in the food.  Also, the amount used cannot be more than is needed
to accomplish the intended effect in the food.

     Additives are used to achieve one or a combination of four
purposes...to maintain or improve nutritional value...to maintain
freshness...to help in processing or preparation...or to  make
food more appealing.

     Without additives or preservatives, some food would soon
spoil or it would taste bland.  If some foods were not made
storable, there might be considerable waste of food.  Also, if
some foods aren't stored properly they can cause illnesses.

     Here are some of the additives which  benefit food.
Nutrient supplements.  Vitamins and minerals are added to foods
to make them more nutritious and sometimes to replace those
nutrients lost during processing.  Examples...bread that has been
"enriched," milk with vitamin D added and margarine with vitamins
A and D added.

     Non-nutritive sweeteners are added to some foods...these in
the form of sugar substitutes.

     Preservatives.  There are several kinds of preservatives
which are effective in preventing spoilage in a particular type
of food or against a particular organism.

     Emulsifiers.  These products improve the uniformity of a
food...the fineness of grain...the smoothness and body of foods
such as bakery goods, ice creams and confectionery products.

     Stabilizers and thickeners.  These products add smoothness,
color uniformity and flavor uniformity to such things as ice
creams, chocolate milk and artificially sweetened beverages.
Stabilizers and thickeners are labeled as pectin, vegetable gums
and gelatins.

     Flavors and flavoring agents.  Some of these such as spices
and liquid derivatives of onion, garlic, cloves and peppermint
enhance flavor.  Synthetic flavorings which resemble natural
flavors have been developed and these have the advantage of being
more stable than natural flavors.

     Bleaching agents and maturing agents.  These speed the aging
process which improves the bread making quality of flour.
Freshly milled flour is yellowish and makes very poor bread.

     Colors.  Although colors don't improve eating quality they
are considered important.  The chances are you're so used to food
being a specific color that you would refuse to buy it if it were
some other color.

     Additives have many other uses too.  These uses include
hardening, drying, leavening, anti-foaming, firming, crisping,
anti-sticking, whipping, creaming, clarifying and sterilizing.

     Without additives to help in the processing of food, today's
grocery stores would need a lot less room to sell what foods
would be left.  Tested and approved food additives are a part of
today's modern food technology.
-End-
-Title-
Food Fads and Fallacies
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Food Fads and Fallacies

     The promotion of nutrition misinformation has become a
multi-billion dollar business.  There's almost no end to the
nutrition tests and treatments, special foods and food
supplements, pills, gadgets, diets, books and magazines that are
produced daily to take advantage of the public's new health and
fitness awareness.

     Health quacks capitalize on people's fears...fears that
they're being poisoned by food additives and pollution...and
fears that their diets are being adversely affected by modern
processing methods.  These quacks capitalize on people's
hopes...hopes of looking and feeling young forever...of being
free from illness...and of performing at exceptional levels.
Health quacks seem to have all the answers.  "Super nutrition" is
the magic cure for any all problems.

     Let's try to burst eight of the bubbles of common food
myths...

     The first one...athletes need more protein than the average
person.

False--Exercise increases the need for calories...or energy...not
protein.  Also, muscles increase in size with stimulation...not
excess protein.

     The second...if small amounts of a vitamin are good for you,
then large amounts are even better.

False--Taking more vitamins than your body needs does not do it
any good.  Extra amounts of water-soluble vitamins...B complex
and vitamin C...are excreted.  Too much of  fat-soluble
vitamins...A,D,E or K...can be toxic.

     The third...foods grown with chemical pesticides and
fertilizers are slowly poisoning us.

False--The proper application of pesticides insures that the
chemical level is harmless before the crop is harvested.
Chemical fertilizers supply the same chemical elements that
natural fertilizers supply.  Soil condition, fertilizers and
pesticides all affect crop yield...not nutritional quality.

     The fourth...large doses of vitamin C...ascorbic acid...will
cure the common cold.

False--The claims that vitamin C cures colds are still being
studied.  Excessive intake of ascorbic acid...or vitamin C...may
lead to kidney stone formation.

     The fifth...hair analysis can be used to diagnose a need for
vitamins and minerals.

False--Hair analysis is a waste of money because the state of
your body's health may be completely unrelated to the chemical
composition of your hair.  There are no vitamins in hair and the
mineral composition is affected by many other factors.

     The sixth...bee pollen can boost athletic performance.
False--Tests have shown that bee pollen offers no benefits over a
balanced diet.  It is expensive and what is worse, it can cause
dangerous allergic reactions.

     The seventh...vinegar makes you lose weight by melting away
your fat.

False--Fat cannot be melted away by vinegar, grapefruit juice, or
any other acid.  Exercise and a lower calorie diet can use up the
calories stored as fat.

     And finally, the eighth..."natural" foods--those without
chemical additives--are better for you than foods containing
additives.

False--Foods packaged without additives or preservative are no
more healthful than others.  Additives must now pass extensive
tests before they can be used to help maintain the quality and
safety of a product.  Research doesn't support claims that
additives cause hyperactivity in children.  Treatment should be
directed by a physician.

     If you hear some claim which promises miraculous
results...or belittles the medical profession or normal
foods...or appeals to your emotions...you should question its
usefulness.
-End-
-Title-
Foods High in Dietary Fiber
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                   Foods High in Dietary Fiber

     Dietary fiber is the indigestible part of plants that has a
definite benefit in treating and preventing constipation.  Eating
more foods which are high in dietary fiber has also been linked
to preventing and treating other health problems such as colon
cancer and diverticular disease, but evidence is incomplete and
inconclusive at this time.

     Dietary fiber occurs naturally in all plant foods including
grains, fruits, vegetables, nuts, peas and beans.  People in
developed countries generally eat fewer foods with dietary fiber,
mainly because they eat less cereal grain.  Although fiber adds
no essential nutrients to the body, it does play an important
role in the diet.

     Foods which are high in fiber include: peas and beans;
fresh, raw fruits and vegetables (especially sweet potatoes and
Irish potatoes cooked in their skins); and whole grain breads and
cereals.  Bran, one of the most common types of dietary fiber, is
found in whole grain breads and cereals.  Cereals that are 100
percent bran usually have about seven grams of fiber per ounce.
Cereals with bran in the name contain less, but they do have more
fiber than do other cereals.

     Eating a balanced diet which includes fruits, vegetables,
whole grain breads and cereals will give you adequate fiber and
help to promote a healthy lifestyle.
-End-
-Title-
Foods on a Low Sodium Diet
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                   Foods on a Low Sodium Diet

     Salt is one of the most commonly used seasonings in America.
The salt shaker is a common sight in most kitchens, and salt is
also part of many of the products that enter our homes.

     Table salt is a compound known as sodium chloride.  It is
made up of 40 percent sodium and 60 percent chlorine.  Sodium is
an essential mineral because your body needs it to maintain fluid
balance and to help transmit nerve impulses.  Sodium also helps
muscle fibers to contract and expand.  But, even though sodium is
necessary, most people probably eat more than they need.  The
Food and Nutrition Board of the National Academy of Sciences now
recommends that we eat only about 1100 to 3300 milligrams of
sodium a day.  This is a safe, adequate amount.

     Only one teaspoon of table salt contains about 2,000
milligrams of sodium.  About one-fourth of most of our sodium
intake comes from salt added to food.  Sodium occurs naturally in
foods, too, but usually in small amounts.  If your doctor
prescribes a low-sodium diet for you, you'll be eating a lot of
fresh fruits and vegetables.  But even certain vegetables contain
considerable amounts of sodium.  These include artichokes, beets,
beet greens, carrots, celery, mustard greens, spinach and
turnips.

     You'll also be eating meats, poultry, fish, peas, beans,
bread, cereals and milk products, but the amounts of some of
these may be limited because meat, poultry, fish, dairy products
and eggs have greater amounts of sodium than fresh fruits and
vegetables.  Frozen lima beans and frozen peas are also high in
sodium.

     Processed foods are usually much higher in sodium than fresh
foods.  For example, a fresh tomato has only 14 milligrams of
sodium and one cup of commercial tomato soup has 932 milligrams.
A cup of canned tomato sauce has 1,498 milligrams.  Many other
foods have salt added in processing.  These include cheese,
bacon, sausage, ham, pickles and sauerkraut.

     Packaged foods like mixes, cereals, canned food, chili
sauce, ketchup, mayonnaise and mustard, and frozen, prepared
foods all contain added sodium or salt.

     Reading labels can help you find other sources of salt. Some
of the most common sources of sodium used in processing are
monosodium glutamate, sodium benzoate and di-sodium phosphate.
If the label doesn't give the exact amount of sodium, remember
that ingredients are listed in order of quantity.  If you're
cutting down on sodium, don't buy products if sodium is among the
first three ingredients listed.

     Baking powder and baking soda are almost as high in sodium
as table salt.  Many commercial antacids and alkalizers are high
in sodium and shouldn't be taken for heartburn by people who must
restrict sodium.

     The drinking water in some areas also has a high sodium
content.  You can find out the sodium content of your drinking
water by calling your local health department.
-End-
-Title-
Preparing Your Own Baby Food
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Preparing Your Own Baby Food

     You can prepare baby food at home for less cost than you can
buy it.  Besides being easy to prepare, baby food made at home is
healthful and nutritious.  All you need is the food, a food mill,
blender, fork or strainer.  Wash your hands and all equipment
with hot, soapy water before you start to make baby food.

     Wash fruits and vegetables, peel them and remove any seeds.
You can use some fresh fruits, like bananas or ripe pears,
without cooking them first.  Other fresh fruits and vegetables
should be cooked in a little water or steamed until they are
tender.  Cook or steam them without adding salt, sugar or
seasonings.

     To fix meats for baby, boil or bake them until they are
tender.  Don't add fat, salt or seasonings.  When the meat is
well-done, remove all bones, skin and fat.

     Use a food mill, blender or fork to make food smooth.  Add
liquids such as cooking water, juice, milk or formula to thin the
food as needed.  Store home-prepared baby foods in the
refrigerator.  Keep cooked fruits and vegetables no longer than
three days, and keep raw fruits and cooked meats only two days.
Be sure to cover the foods tightly.

     If you want to freeze some of your homemade baby food, put
it in ice trays, cover and freeze it until it's solid.  Remove
cubes, place them in plastic bags, then label and date.  These
frozen baby foods can be kept for one month.

     When you get ready to serve food you've frozen, thaw it in
the refrigerator, then heat the food cube in a double boiler or
in a heat-proof dish in a small amount of water either in the
oven or on top of the range.  Heat until warm, but don't
overcook.

     If you feed the baby directly from the "heating" container,
throw away any food the baby doesn't eat.  Saliva and germs can
contaminate the food that's left.

-End-
-Title-
Risks in Feeding Infants Whole or Skim Milk
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
           Risks in Feeding Infants Whole or Skim Milk

     Until just a few years ago, human milk was the mainstay of
most infants' diets.  Recently, many formulas which closely
resemble human milk have been developed.  Most physicians now
recommend breast-feeding for most infants with formulas the next
best choice.

     Some mothers wonder about feeding whole cow's milk to their
infants and how it compares to human milk.  Cow's milk contains
more protein than human milk, so it must be diluted before it's
fed to babies.  The pattern of amino acids in human milk is more
appropriate for infants than that found in cow's milk.  Also, the
fat in human milk is better absorbed than the fat in cow's milk.

     Human milk contains higher levels of vitamins A, C and E
than does cow's milk.  The iron in human milk is more efficiently
absorbed by babies than the iron in cow's milk and because of
this, anemia is less likely to be a problem among nursing
infants.  And, as for calcium, human milk contains less calcium
but it is more easily absorbed than the calcium in cow's milk.

     In addition to the nutritional benefits, human milk provides
some protection for infants against various intestinal and
respiratory illnesses.  Also, babies who are fed human milk are
less likely to develop allergies than those babies on cow's milk.

     Many nutrition experts recommend whole milk after children
are 12 months of age.  They do not recommend that skim milk be
given to children until they're at least two years old, even if
they're overweight.
-End-
-Title-
Storing Baby Foods
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Storing Baby Foods

     Storing baby foods properly helps to insure the good health
of your baby.  You can store unopened commercial baby foods on
the pantry shelf at room temperature.   Opened jars of baby foods
should be closed tightly and stored in the refrigerator.  They
may be kept only three days.

     Don't feed your baby directly from the jar because the spoon
with which you feed the baby will have saliva and germs on it.
This can make the food spoil more quickly.  Transfer the amount
you think your baby will eat into a small bowl, and feed the baby
from this bowl.

     You can keep home-prepared, cooked fruits and vegetables for
three days in the refrigerator, but don't keep raw fruits and
cooked meats longer than two days.  Put this food in glass or
plastic jars and cover them tightly.

     You can also freeze home-prepared baby foods.  Fill an ice
tray with food, cover it with waxed paper, and freeze until food
becomes solid.  You can then remove the cubes of food and freeze
them in a plastic bag.  Label and date the bag.  You can keep the
frozen food cubes for one month.

     To serve the frozen baby food, thaw the food in the
refrigerator, then heat the cubes in a double boiler or in a dish
surrounded by hot water on top of the stove or in the oven.  Heat
just until it's warm--don't overcook.
-End-
-Title-
Teenage Pregnancy Nutritional Risks
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
               Teenage Pregnancy Nutritional Risks

     As a teenager who is pregnant, you must be sure to eat well
because your body needs food for its own growth and development
and for the growth and development of the baby you're carrying.
How you eat during pregnancy will affect your own health as well
as your baby's health.  If you eat right, you'll be less likely
to have complications.  You're also more likely to have a healthy
baby and be better prepared to breast-feed if that's what you
want to do.

     Current research indicates that weight gain during pregnancy
should be about 24 to 28 pounds.  If you begin your pregnancy
below your desirable weight, then your doctor may suggest that
you gain more than this.  If you were overweight when you became
pregnant, your weight gain during pregnancy should still be about
24-28 pounds.  Pregnancy is not the time to diet.  The way you
gain weight during pregnancy is very important, too.  A weight
gain of one pound per month for the first three months and then
three-fourths of a pound each week for the remaining six months
is the appropriate pattern.

     Pregnant teenagers should eat a simple, well balanced diet
which includes a variety of foods.  The daily diet should include
the following food groups:

     MILK -- One quart of whole milk, low fat milk, or skim milk
to provide protein for body tissues and calcium for bones and
teeth.  Other milk products, including cheese, cottage cheese,
yogurt and ice cream, may be substituted for some of the milk.

     MEAT, POULTRY, FISH AND BEANS -- Two or more servings are
needed daily to provide iron for red blood cells and additional
protein for body tissues.

     VEGETABLES AND FRUITS -- At least four servings are needed
each day to provide vitamins and minerals.  A good source of
vitamin C is important, and it can be citrus fruits, melons
tomatoes or greens.  Dark green and yellow vegetables or fruits
provide vitamin A, which is also needed.  Foods that contain
vitamin A are carrots, spinach, squash or apricots.

     BREADS AND CEREALS -- You should eat five or six servings of
whole grain or enriched breads and cereals each day so you'll
have the energy, B vitamins and minerals you need. Whole grain
products also provide fiber, which helps to prevent constipation.

     A fifth group of foods is labeled FATS, SWEETS AND ALCOHOL.
Alcohol should be avoided during pregnancy.  Candy, soft drinks
and other sweets may be eaten once in awhile.  If you need extra
calories, you should use margarine, butter oils or salad dressing
to complete your meals.

     By eating well and taking care of yourself, you can help
yourself have a safe pregnancy and a happy, healthy baby.  Your
nutritional needs reflect both your own requirements and those of
your developing baby.
-End-
-Title-
How Long Does Frozen Food Keep?
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                 How Long Does Frozen Food Keep?

     Your home freezer can be a real time-saver for today's busy
lifestyle.  It can store meats, fruits and vegetables and many
items which can be prepared ahead:  casseroles, main dishes,
foods for parties or snacks, and even entire meals packaged in
individual portions.

     You do need to remember three important points about keeping
frozen foods fresh and safe to eat:  one, choose quality food
products; two, maintain the freezer temperature at zero degrees
Fahrenheit or lower; and, three, use appropriate freezer
packaging materials.

     You need to choose quality food products because a frozen
food item will be only as good as the original product.  Follow
recommended procedures for preparing foods for freezing, such as
blanching for fresh vegetables.

     A freezer temperature of zero degrees or below is essential
for keeping frozen foods safe and delicious.  Use a freezer
thermometer to check the temperature of your freezer.

     If you use containers and materials designed for home
freezing, you can avoid freezer burn.  This means using moisture-
vapor-proof plastic bags and wraps, freezer wrap, freezer
containers and heavy-duty foil.

     When you package the foods, date them with an expiration
date based on maximum storage times.  Storing foods longer isn't
dangerous, but flavors and textures may change when foods are
stored longer than recommended times.  Be sure the temperature in
your freezer is zero degrees or lower.

     Here are some of the maximum storage times recommended by
USDA for maintaining good quality:  fruits and fruit juice
concentrates, l year; vegetables, 8 to 12 months; bread, rolls
and doughnuts, 3 months; cakes, 2 to 4 months; fruit cake, l
year; pound cake, 6 months; unbaked pies, 8 months.

     Beef, such as hamburger meat, steaks and roasts, 2 months;
cured pork, 2 months; fresh pork chops, 4 months; pork roasts, 8
months; and pork sausage, 2 months.  Veal cutlets, chops and
roasts, 9 months; cooked meat dinners, meat pies or Swiss steak,
3 months; cut-up chicken, 9 months; whole chicken, l year;
chicken livers, 3 months;  duck, goose and cut-up turkey, 6
months; whole turkey, l year; cooked chicken or turkey dinners or
pies, 6 months; fried chicken, 4 months.

     Fish fillets, 3 to 6 months; crab meat, 3 months; oysters, 4
months; shrimp, l year; cooked fish and shell fish, 3 months; and
ice cream or sherbet, l month.
-End-
-Title-
Picnic Foods and Safety
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Picnic Foods and Safety

     Warm weather often means picnics and outdoor fun.  Too
often, food-borne illness is associated with picnics.  Follow
these suggestions to keep your picnic foods safe to eat.

     Choose your picnic menu carefully.  Disease-producing
bacteria prefer foods high in protein and moisture.  These foods
include milk products, eggs, poultry, meats, fish, shellfish,
cream pies, custards and potato salad.  If you can't keep foods
at the proper temperature to prevent bacterial growth, don't plan
to take these foods on a picnic.  The temperatures which prevent
bacterial growth are either above 140 degrees or below 45
degrees.  If temperatures are a problem, choose canned, preserved
or dehydrated foods and fresh fruits and vegetables.

     Food preparation is another important aspect of getting
ready for a picnic.  Before you prepare food, be sure to wash
your hands and the utensils and equipment you will use.  Cook
food thoroughly to the proper temperature.  Cook pork, poultry,
custards and cream fillings to a temperature of 165 degrees.  Use
a meat or cooking thermometer to make sure food reaches 165
degrees.

     Keep prepared food hot (above 140 degrees) or refrigerate it
immediately after preparation.  Use frozen bread and chilled
fillings for sandwiches to help keep them cold.

     Storing foods properly can help keep your picnic free from
food-borne illness, too.  Hot foods should be stored and
transported in insulated containers such as an ice chest, for
short trips.  For longer trips, refrigerate foods at 45 degrees
or colder, then reheat them before you eat them.

     Cold foods can be kept below 45 degrees in an ice chest.
You can use ice, dry ice or cold packs to keep temperatures low.
If you use dry ice, put it on top of the food.  Store foods to be
chilled in shallow containers.  They provide more surface area
for foods to stay cold.

     When you're serving picnic foods, place them on a clean
tablecloth spread on the picnic table or ground.  After the meal,
put leftovers back in the ice chest immediately.  If food has
stayed out at unsafe temperatures, throw it away.  Do not take a
chance on eating foods which might make you sick.

     Follow these suggestions for food safety.  Make sure your
picnic is an enjoyable experience.
-End-
-Title-
Preventing Botulism
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Preventing Botulism

     Botulism is a deadly type of food poisoning caused by
bacteria in soil and is carried into the home on clothing, hands,
food, etc.  It grows best at temperatures between 70 degrees and
110 degrees Fahrenheit -- in other words, at room temperature.

     The bacteria itself is easily destroyed by boiling
temperatures, 212 degrees Fahrenheit.  The problem is that the
bacteria produces spores which are very resistant to heat.  These
spores produce the poison that causes the deadly food poisoning
called botulism.

     The poison, or toxin, is so powerful that one teaspoon of
the pure substance can kill thousands of people.  Researchers who
study the botulism organism must be extremely careful to avoid
contact with it.  The only way to destroy these spores is to heat
them to 240 degrees Fahrenheit, a temperature much higher than
boiling.  This high temperature can be reached only by equipment
in commercial canning operations or by using a standard pressure
canner in home canning.

     Because the bacteria live and grow without air, home canned,
low acid foods which have been improperly processed at
temperatures lower than 240 degrees are prime targets for
botulism growth.  Botulism is rarely found in commercially canned
foods;  it is much more often associated with home canned foods.

     In the warm, moist, air-free environment of low acid, home
canned foods which have not been processed at the correct
temperature, the organism grows easily and produces its toxin.
Low acid foods include meats, vegetables and milk.  Most fruits
contain enough acid to prevent botulism growth and can be
processed using a water bath.  Any time food is processed at
home, it is imperative to follow tested recipes for processing
times and temperatures.

     The botulism poison can be destroyed by brisk boiling in an
open pan for about 15 to 20 minutes.  Any home canned, low acid
food about which you have the slightest question should be boiled
for 15 to 20 minutes before you taste it.
-End-
-Title-
Reheat Gravies, Dressings and Meats to Boiling
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
         Reheat Gravies, Dressings and Meats to Boiling

     Gravies, dressings, meats and other protein-containing foods
are excellent sources for bacterial growth which cause food
poisoning.  Food poisoning is caused by preparing and storing
foods improperly.  Lack of sanitation, insufficient cooking and
improper storage are major causes of food poisoning.

     Highly perishable foods including meat, poultry, dressing,
gravy, seafood, cream pies, puddings, potato salads and dishes
made with eggs are those most likely to become contaminated.

     To prevent food poisoning, use tested recipes with reliable
tables for temperature and time.  Using a meat thermometer can
help you make sure that meats are cooked thoroughly.  Internal
temperatures of beef, veal and lamb should reach at least 140
degrees Fahrenheit.  Poultry should reach 165 degrees and pork
should reach 170 degrees.  Bacteria can survive in partially
cooked meats, so don't plan to cook meats, poultry or fish only
partially and hold for final cooking until later.

     Dressing is a common source of food-borne illness.  Store
dressing and meat separately in the refrigerator.  Stuff thawed
poultry, fish or meat just before roasting.  Put dressing in
lightly without packing to allow adequate heat penetration.  Make
sure that dressing, either inside meat or cooked separately,
reaches a temperature of at least 165 degrees Fahrenheit during
cooking.  Use a meat thermometer to make sure.  Keep cooked meat,
fish, poultry and dressing hot (above 140 degrees) until they are
served.

     To serve leftover meat, dressing and gravy, heat thoroughly.
Boil leftover broth and gravies for several minutes before eating
them.  Boiling will help to make sure bacteria are destroyed.
-End-
-Title-
Defrosting Your Freezer
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Defrosting Your Freezer

     A thick layer of frost makes your freezer work less
efficiently.  High temperatures and humidity will make the
problem worse.  If frost builds to more than one-quarter of an
inch on freezer walls, it's time to defrost the freezer.

     For routine defrosting, you don't need to turn off the
electricity.  Transfer frozen items to the refrigerator or wrap
them together in several layers of newspaper and put them in an
insulated picnic cooler.  Or, move them to one side of the
freezer while you scrape off and scoop out excess frost with a
plastic scraper or wooden paddle.  Never use an ice pick or
electric defroster which might damage the inside of the unit.

     Every once in a while, you need to defrost the unit
completely and clean it.  Choose a time when the freezer is
nearly empty, if possible.  To defrost the freezer completely,
unplug the freezer.  Remove frozen foods and wrap them in several
layers of newspapers.  Cover packages with a blanket or put them
in a picnic cooler.  Food will stay frozen for several hours if
temperatures aren't too high.  If temperatures are extremely
high, add dry ice.

     Remove storage baskets and food dividers, wash in warm,
sudsy water, rinse and dry.  If freezer has a defrost water
drain, connect the hose adaptor to the drain.  Place a flat pan
under the drain or direct the water hose to a convenient drain.

     You can speed the defrosting by placing pans of warm water
inside the freezer or by directing air from an electric fan or
vacuum cleaner exhaust into the freezer. Scrape off the rest of
the frost with a plastic or wooden scraper.  Never use a sharp
object or an electrical defroster.

     After all the frost melts, wash the box with a solution of
warm water and baking soda, using one tablespoon of soda in a
quart of water.  Rinse with clear water and wipe dry with soft
cloths or paper towels.  Turn the current on, and let the freezer
cool for 30 minutes or more before replacing frozen food.

     Freezers differ in their construction and procedures for
defrosting.  If you have a question and you no longer have the
manual to consult, send the model number of your freezer to the
manufacturer and ask for the proper booklet.  The model number is
stamped on your freezer.
-End-
-Title-
Defrosting Your Refrigerator
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Defrosting Your Refrigerator

     Today's refrigerators have one of three defrost systems:
manual defrosting, partial automatic or cycle defrosting, and
frostless or no-frost.  The systems are defined by the
Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers as follows:

     No-frost or frostless refrigerator:  A no-frost refrigerator
or freezer is operated automatically to prevent the permanent
formation of frost on refrigerated plates or coils in the freezer
and refrigerator.  No ice or frost forms on the stored food.  The
water from defrosting is disposed of automatically.  These
frostless or no-frost models never need defrosting, but they do
need cleaning periodically.

     Partial automatic or cycle defrosting refrigerator/freezer:
In these models, the refrigerator has automatic defrosting but
the freezer must be defrosted manually.  The automatic or cycle
defrosting units can be recognized by the cold plate at the
interior back of the refrigerator cabinet.

     The third type is a manual defrosting refrigerator.  Few
refrigerators manufactured today must be defrosted manually.
These models usually have a single door and a small freezing
compartment at the top.  They are usually found in apartments and
cottages or as second refrigerators.

     If you have a manual defrost unit or one in which a buildup
of frost is visible, you'll need to defrost it when the frost is
about one-fourth inch thick.  Otherwise the refrigerator won't
work as well as it should.

     To defrost or clean the freezer, turn the cold control to
off or defrost and remove ice cubes and other frozen items.  Wrap
items together in several layers of newspaper or put them in an
insulated picnic hamper or cooler.

     To defrost quickly, place pans of warm water in the freezer
unit, warm the area with a hair dryer, or use the crevice tool of
your vacuum cleaner, attaching the hose to the exhaust end of the
cleaner.  To avoid the possibility of shock, unplug the
refrigerator.  Don't chip off the frost with a sharp object
because you may damage the compartment.  Collect and throw away
the defrost water.  Wash the compartment with a baking soda
solution, rinse it and wipe dry.  Wipe off any moisture on the
frozen food before returning items to freezer.

     All refrigerators, whether they are defrosted manually or
not, need to be cleaned periodically.  The best time to clean a
refrigerator is when the food supply is lowest.  Throw away any
spoiled food.  Refrigerators can absorb odors from spoiled or
strong-smelling foods.  To remove odors and spills, clean the
inside with a clean cloth wrung out in a solution of one
tablespoon of baking soda to one quart of warm water.  Rinse with
clean water and wipe dry.  Clean the folds in the gasket seal
around the door with mild, sudsy water, rinse and wipe dry.
Vacuum or dust the condenser coils or fins located on the back or
bottom of the refrigerator.  Removing dust from these areas and
not allowing frost to build up will help the refrigerator run
more efficiently.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Freezer Odors
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Removing Freezer Odors

     Objectionable odors in the freezer may be caused by food
that has been left in the freezer too long, food that has been
packaged improperly, or by food that has spoiled when the
electricity was off.  Several different solutions can be used to
clean the interior surface of the freezer.  Try them one at a
time.  Rinse the freezer surfaces well and dry them before trying
another.  Don't mix ingredients in different solutions.

     Baking soda and water may do the job.  Use two tablespoons
of baking soda to a quart of water.  If the odor remains, try a
vinegar and water solution.  The formula is one cup of vinegar to
one gallon of water.  Household ammonia and water is another
choice.  Use one cup of ammonia to a gallon of water.  Household
chlorine bleach may be effective.  Use one-half cup of bleach to
one gallon of water.  No matter which solution you choose, rinse
well with clear water after cleaning.

     If odor remains, leave crumpled newspaper in the freezer for
a time.  Charcoal briquettes or activated charcoal in an open
container may help remove remaining odor.  Other choices include
coffee grounds or kitty litter left in the freezer in an open
container.

     If odor-causing moisture has been absorbed by the insulation
of the freezer, the odor may be impossible to remove.  Odor-
retaining moisture that has wet the insulation is usually the
source of odor if the interior surface has been cleaned and
rinsed and an unpleasant odor still remains.  In this case, all
you can do is hope the insulation dries out if you don't want to
replace the expensive insulation.

     Heat and air circulation may help.  In the meantime, if you
use the freezer for storage, double wrap all food placed inside.
As soon as you take food from the freezer, remove the outer
wrapping before the food thaws.  The odor should be in the outer
wrapping, so food will not be affected.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Odors from a Refrigerator
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
               Removing Odors from a Refrigerator

     If you leave food in the refrigerator too long or store
improperly packaged food, it may leave an unpleasant odor in the
refrigerator.  The same thing happens if food spoils while the
electricity is off.  To remove the odor, try one of the following
solutions.  If the first solution you try doesn't work, then try
another.  Do not mix ingredients in these solutions.  Here are
four solutions for you to try, one at a time:

(1)  Baking soda and water.  Mix two tablespoons of soda with a
     quart of water.

(2)  Vinegar and water.  Use one cup of vinegar for a gallon of
     water.

(3)  Household ammonia and water.  Use one cup of ammonia for a
     gallon of water.

(4)  Household chlorine bleach.  Use one-half cup of bleach for a
     gallon of water.

     Apply the solution you choose with a soft cloth, rinse and
dry surface area well before trying another solution.  If odor
remains, try leaving one of the following in an open container in
the refrigerator:  coffee grounds, kitty litter, baking soda or a
few charcoal briquettes.  Cotton balls saturated with vanilla
extract and placed inside may help cover remaining odor.

     If the odor is in the insulation, no amount of scrubbing or
absorption material will help.  In this case, all you can do
besides replacing the expensive insulation is to hope the
insulation will eventually dry out.

     Sometimes heat and air circulation will help remove odors.
In the meantime, double-wrap food that you place in the freezer.
As soon as you remove the food from the freezer to thaw it for
use, remove the outer wrapping.  Generally the odor will be in
the outer wrapping and the food won't be affected.  Keep all
other foods covered while they are in the refrigerator.

     To prevent odors from being absorbed by refrigerator
surfaces, clean the surfaces regularly with mild detergent and
water or a solution of baking soda and water.  Use a soft cloth,
and avoid abrasive cleaners.

     Defrost manual freezer units regularly, at least when frost
is one-quarter inch thick.  Remove and discard ice from trays or
ice maker periodically because ice retains odors.  If you spill
food in the refrigerator, wipe and clean it immediately.  Food
spills create odors and stains.

     The defrost pan on automatic defrost models needs to be
cleaned periodically, too.  It's usually located under the grill
at the bottom of the refrigerator.  Remove the grill and you'll
see the pan on one side and the condenser coils on the other.
Pull the pan out and clean it.  Remove dust from the condenser
with a brush or the dusting attachment of your vacuum cleaner.
Wipe up any spills on the floor around the bottom of the
refrigerator and under the grill.  Periodic cleaning will help to
remove odors in and around the refrigerator.
-End-
-Title-
Drying Figs
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                           Drying Figs

     Dried figs are rich in flavor and great for snacks and for
baking cookies, cakes, muffins or breads.

     If you plan to dry figs in the oven, select and wash fully
ripe figs.  Dissolve one cup of sugar in three cups of water and
bring the mixture to a boil.  Add the figs and simmer them for
ten minutes.  Remove the figs by lifting them from syrup.  Drain
and cool the figs and place them in a single layer on a drying
rack.  You can use a broiler pan rack or cake rack for a drying
rack.  Set your oven at its lowest temperature.  A low, even
temperature of 115 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit should be maintained
for 10 to 20 hours.  Leave the door propped open slightly so
moisture can escape.  If you use a gas oven, be sure that it
doesn't go out.

     Dry the figs until the outsides are firm to the touch and
the insides are soft with no signs of syrup when squeezed.

     To save energy, you may want to sun-dry figs.  Figs will dry
well outside on hot, sunny days.  They should dry in about two
days.  Bring them in each day at sundown.  They will also dry
well in a car parked in the sun.

     To dry figs in the sun, wash fully ripe figs, leaving stems
on.  Cut the figs completely in half to the stem and turn the cut
side up on the drying rack.  Cover the figs with a piece of
cheesecloth or nylon net to keep insects off.  Put the drying
rack on a table, a car or a roof in full sun.  Dry until outside
is leathery, but pliable.  Inside should be soft, with no sign of
juice.

     For longest storage life, place the dried figs in the
refrigerator or freezer in moisture-proof bags or containers.
Figs can be stored at room temperature if they're completely free
of juice.  To store, first reheat the figs at 160 to 180 degrees
Fahrenheit for 10 to 15 minutes, then place them in moisture-
proof containers.  If you use glass jars, heat clear jars in oven
until they are dry and hot.  Pack the hot figs into the hot jars
and seal.  When they are cool, examine the jars for signs of
moisture.  If you find moisture, reheat the figs and repack them
in hot, dry jars.  Moisture will cause mold to grow which will
spoil the figs.
-End-
-Title-
Drying Peaches
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                         Drying Peaches

     Dried peaches can be a real space saver when it comes to
storing peaches for later use.  Dried peaches are a great snack
and they're delicious in breads, pies and cakes.

     To dry peaches in the oven, select about three pounds of
fully ripened peaches.  Wash, peel, pit and slice them into
wedges.  Mix one cup of sugar in three cups of water and heat the
mixture to boiling.  Add the fruit and simmer it for ten minutes.
Remove the peaches from the heat and let them stand in syrup ten
minutes or longer.  Drain well and spread them in single layers
on a drying rack such as a broiler pan.  Then, put the peaches in
the oven to dry.  A low, even temperature of about 115 to 120
degrees Fahrenheit should be maintained for 10 to 15 hours.  You
may increase the temperature to 150 degrees toward the end of
drying time.

     Prop the oven door open two to four inches so excess heat
and moisture can escape.  A small fan directed inside the oven
will circulate the air and shorten the drying time.  If you have
a gas oven, be sure it doesn't go out.

     If you plan to store peaches in the refrigerator or freezer,
dry the fruit until it is firm but not leathery.  The inside
should be soft with no sign of syrup when squeezed.  They may be
compressed in moisture-vapor-proof bags and need very little
space for storage.

     To store at room temperature, dry the peaches until they're
leathery but still pliable.  Cool the peaches and pack them in
dry, scalded containers that are airtight and insect-proof.
Close the container tightly and store it in a cool, dark, dry
place.  Check containers from time to time to see if moisture has
collected on the inside of containers.  If there is moisture,
reheat the peaches, cool and repack.  Moisture causes spoilage.
-End-
-Title-
Drying Pears
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                          Drying Pears

     To dry pears in the oven, select about two pounds of fully
ripened pears.  Wash, peel, core and slice the pears.  If the
pears are a hard variety, you may need to pre-cook them in a
little water until they are soft.  Dissolve one cup of sugar in
three cups of water and heat the mixture to boiling.  Then,
remove it from the heat and let the fruit stand in the syrup for
10 minutes.  Drain pears well and spread them in single layers on
a drying rack.  Put the pears in the oven set at its lowest
temperature.  Keep the oven at an even temperature of about 115
to 120 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 to 15 hours.  Temperature may be
increased to 150 degrees toward the end of drying time.  Prop the
oven door open an inch or two so excess heat and moisture can
escape.  If you use a gas oven, be sure it doesn't go out.

     If you plan to store pears in the refrigerator or freezer,
dry pears until they're firm but not leathery.  The inside should
be soft but it should show no sign of syrup when the pears are
squeezed.  Compressed in moisture-vapor-proof bags, dried pears
require little storage space.

     If you store pears at room temperature, dry them until they
are leathery but still pliable.  Pack pears in hot, dry jars and
seal them immediately.  Store in a dark, cool place.  Be sure to
check the containers often to see if moisture is collecting on
the inside.  Moisture will cause pears to spoil, so if there is
moisture, reheat the pears and repack them in hot, dry jars.

     Dried pears are good snacks and are flavorful additions to
cookies, muffins, breads, fruit cakes and mincemeat.
-End-
-Title-
Cooking Dry Soybeans
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Cooking Dry Soybeans

     Before you cook dry soybeans, sort them and remove any beans
that are discolored, cracked or shriveled.  Wash the beans
thoroughly and soak them at least four hours or overnight.  To
soak, add four cups of warm water and two teaspoons of baking
soda to each cup of dry beans.  One cup of dry beans will yield
about two and one-half cups of cooked beans.

     After the beans have soaked, bring them to a boil in the
soaking water and simmer for 20 minutes.  Then, drain the beans
and rinse them in fresh water.  Rub the beans between your
fingers and most of the husks will float to the top of the water
and can be rinsed away.  Cover the beans completely with boiling
water and add more water while they're cooking if needed.  Add
one to two teaspoons of oil or margarine to reduce foaming.  Add
one teaspoon of sugar, and salt and pepper to taste.  Simmer the
beans for one-and-a-half to two hours or until they're tender.
Serve cooked dry soybeans like you serve other dry beans or use
them to make baked beans.

     Remember:  The protein in soybeans is almost comparable in
quality to animal protein.  To be a complete protein, it needs
only to be combined with a small amount of meat, milk or a cereal
grain such as rice.  Soybeans are also rich in calcium, iron,
phosphorus and some of the B vitamins.
-End-
-Title-
Cooking Green Soybeans
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Cooking Green Soybeans

     Fresh, green soybeans are available in some areas in late
summer or fall.  Vegetable soybeans are the kind used for
cooking.  They are larger and milder than the field soybeans used
for making oil and commercial flour.  Vegetable soybeans look
like butter beans or lima beans.  When you're buying vegetable
soybeans to cook, each pod will usually have two beans and the
pods should be bright green and plump.  Soybean pods are fuzzy on
the outside and you don't eat them.

     To shell fresh soybeans, first cover them with boiling water
and let them soak for three minutes.  Remove the beans and rinse
them in cold water.  Break the pods crosswise and squeeze out the
beans.  One pound of beans in the pod will yield about one and
two-thirds cups of ready-to-cook beans.

     To cook soybeans, add two cups of shelled soybeans to one
cup of boiling water.  Add one-half teaspoon of salt or salt
substitute.  When the water and the beans return to a boil, cover
them and cook them gently for 10 or 20 minutes.  The beans will
become tender as they cook, but won't get mushy because they
contain a lot of protein and oil and almost no starch.  Soybeans
are a good source of vitamins A and C, too.  Season the beans
with margarine and serve them as a vegetable or use them instead
of limas in some of your favorite recipes.

     Children may like green soy nuts.  Prepare soy nuts by
cooking  unshelled green soybeans in boiling, salted water for 30
minutes or until they're tender.  Eat the soy nuts like boiled
peanuts.
-End-
-Title-
Cooking Green Vegetables
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                    Cooking Green Vegetables

     Don't overcook green vegetables!  To ensure the best flavor,
color, texture and food value, cook vegetables only until they
are tender.  The less water you use in cooking, and the shorter
the cooking time, the more nutrients will stay in the vegetables.
Dark green vegetables are excellent sources of vitamins A and C.

     Green vegetables contain chlorophyll, the green pigment.  If
you overcook vegetables, or cook them in an acid liquid, they
will lose the attractive green color and become drab olive-green
or brown.  Leave the lid off for the first five minutes of
cooking.  This will allow the plant acids to escape in the steam
and help to prevent some of the discoloration.

     Here are some suggestions for cooking green vegetables:

     Cook green vegetables quickly in a small amount of boiling,
salted water.

     Cook until just tender.

     Don't add acid, such as lemon juice or vinegar, to
vegetables.

     Never add a pinch of baking soda to vegetables.  It will
preserve the green color because it makes the water alkaline, but
it destroys vitamins and makes vegetables mushy.

     You might want to stir-fry green vegetables like broccoli.
Cook and stir chopped vegetables in a small amount of hot oil in
a frying pan or a wok.  Remove vegetables from oil as soon as
they are crisp-tender.  If you serve green vegetables often, you
can cut calories and overall food costs and, at the same time,
improve the nutritional quality of your meals.
-End-
-Title-
Cooking Red or Purple Vegetables
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                Cooking Red or Purple Vegetables

     The red, blue and purple pigments found in vegetables such
as red cabbage, radishes and beets dissolve easily when they are
cooked.  Tap water that contains a lot of minerals may cause an
even greater color change in these vegetables.  If you want to
intensify the color, add a weak acid such as lemon juice or
vinegar to these vegetables when you cook them.

     Try these suggestions to retain the color and flavor of red
and purple vegetables.

     Cook red vegetables in a moderate amount of lightly salted
water.  Cook them with the lid on.  Add lemon juice, orange juice
or diluted vinegar to make the color brighter.

     When you are cooking beets, leave the skins and roots on and
part of the stem intact.  If you don't, much of the color will
dissolve in the cooking water.  Peel beets after cooking.

     To keep cabbage from turning blue when it's cooked, add an
apple, a little lemon juice or a little vinegar during cooking.
-End-
-Title-
Cooking Sweet Potatoes
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Cooking Sweet Potatoes

     The easiest ways to cook sweet potatoes or yams are also the
best ways to cook them.  Yams are more flavorful and more
nutritious when they are cooked in their jackets either by
boiling or baking.  Baking makes the most of the natural sugars
found just under the skin, caramelizing these sugars for a
delicious, syrupy taste.  Baking or boiling yams in their jackets
also preserves the vitamin C which is located just under the
skin.  After potatoes are baked or boiled, the skins will slip
off easily.  Eat the baked or boiled yams just as they are or use
them in sweet potato dishes.

     Whether you're baking or boiling sweet potatoes, select
potatoes about the same size for even cooking.  Scrub them well
and dry them.  Don't cover potatoes with foil if you bake them.
Instead, rub them with fat or oil.  Place them on a baking sheet
or on the oven rack in an oven preheated to 400 degrees
Fahrenheit.  Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 degrees
Fahrenheit and bake until soft, about one and one-half hours.
For baking, use only cured potatoes.

     To boil yams, put them in a pot with enough lightly salted
water to cover them.  Cover pot and boil potatoes until they're
tender.  Drain immediately so they won't get soggy.

     Serve baked or boiled yams plain or mashed with milk, juices
and spices.  One medium-sized baked sweet potato contains about
155 calories.  A tablespoon of margarine adds 100 calories.

     Baked or boiled yams can be frozen for later use.  If you
plan to freeze sweet potatoes, bake potatoes only until they're
about three-fourths done, then cool them, wrap them individually
in foil, and store them together in a freezer bag or freezer
paper.  Leave the potatoes in foil to thaw and finish baking.

     To prepare boiled or mashed yams for freezing, cook with
skins on until almost tender.  Cool, peel, cut or mash.  Dip
potatoes in orange or lemon juice to keep them from darkening.  A
solution of ascorbic acid will also keep them from darkening.
Pack tightly in containers, leaving half an inch of head space.
Cover surface snugly with a layer of freezer paper or film, seal
and freeze.
-End-
-Title-
Making Homemade Ice Cream
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                    Making Homemade Ice Cream

     Homemade ice cream is a favorite treat for young and old.
Ice cream made at home offers characteristics somewhat different
from those of commercial ice cream.  It usually has a higher fat
content, a heavier body and a coarser texture.  There's also less
air forced into the homemade mixture than in the commercial ice
creams.

     Because homemade ice cream is frozen slowly, the ice
crystals are larger and the end product is coarser than rapidly
frozen commercial ice cream.  Besides being delicious, ice cream
is a nourishing dairy food that provides calcium, protein,
vitamin A, riboflavin and thiamin.

     Here are some tips that will make your homemade ice cream
even better:

     Try to prepare the ice cream mixture the day before you plan
to freeze it.  This gives the mixture added smoothness and
volume.

     If you haven't made the custard early enough to refrigerate
it for a day, at least cool it before you freeze it in the ice
cream freezer.  Cool the container and the dasher thoroughly
before freezing the ice cream.  Don't try to freeze a warm
custard -- the ice cream will have a buttery flavor and texture.

     Use cream that can be whipped.  Whipping helps make the ice
cream smoother by incorporating air into the cream and
distributing the fat evenly.

     Fill the freezer only two-thirds full to leave room for the
ice cream to expand as it freezes.

     After placing the ice cream container in the bucket, fill
the bucket one-third full of ice before you start to add salt.
Alternate salt and ice until the bucket is full.

     Use one part salt to eight parts ice.

     If the ice cream is granular, you may have added too much
salt to the ice or you may have put too much ice cream in the
container.  If you used a hand-cranked freezer, you may have
turned it too rapidly.

     For variety, add ripe, mashed fruit to your ice cream
mixture.
-End-
-Title-
Poaching Eggs
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                          Poaching Eggs

     If you are watching your weight, a poached egg served over
steamed vegetables is a delicious combination.  One large egg has
only 80 calories.  Two eggs are equivalent to one serving of
meat.

     To poach an egg all you need is a deep skillet or saucepan.
The pan should be two to three inches deep so that it will hold
enough water to cover the egg.

     If you would like to use a poaching ring to help keep the
egg in an attractive shape, make one by using tuna cans or other
small cans with both ends removed.  The rings work best in more
shallow pans such as skillets.  Set the rings in the simmering
water and slip the eggs into the rings.

     Poaching is one of the easiest ways to cook an egg.  Eggs
should be as fresh as possible and cold.  This helps to prevent
the egg white from spreading -- producing a more compact poached
egg.

     To properly poach eggs, heat two to three inches of liquid
to boiling.  You may use water, broth, tomato juice, soup or
milk.  When the liquid begins to boil, reduce the heat to keep it
gently simmering.  Break cold eggs, one at a time, into a saucer
or a custard cup.  Hold the dish close to the liquid's surface as
each egg is slipped into the pan.  Cook the eggs in the simmering
liquid for about three to five minutes.  After about three
minutes of cooking, the egg whites will be firm, but the yolks
will still flow.  Yolks will harden after five minutes of
cooking.  Once the eggs are poached as desired, lift them out
with a slotted spoon and drain them in the spoon or on paper
towels.

     Eggs provide high-quality protein and are very low in cost.
Since a dozen eggs weighs one and a half pounds, their cost per
pound is only two-thirds of the price per dozen.  With the
exception of vitamin C, eggs are a good source of many vitamins
and minerals.  They make a low-calorie, low-cost, nutritious
contribution to any meal.

-End-
-Title-
Toasting Pecans
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                         Toasting Pecans

     You can toast pecans with or without spices.  If you like
them plain, stir three cups of shelled pecans and a half-stick of
melted margarine into a shallow baking pan.  Roast the pecans in
a slow oven, 275 to 300 degrees, for about 45 minutes to one
hour.  Stir them every 15 minutes.  When the pecans are done,
drain them on absorbent paper and add salt while they are warm.
Be careful not to over-toast pecans.  Smaller pecans cook faster,
so taste them as you toast.  The amount of moisture in pecans
affects cooking time, too.

     If you like spicy hot pecans, toast the pecans in a mixture
of one stick of melted margarine and one-half cup of
Worcestershire sauce.  This is enough to coat one and one-half
pounds of shelled pecans.  Bake in a 250 degree oven.  Stir every
15 minutes and bake until the nuts absorb all the liquid.  Remove
them from the oven and sprinkle with salt and cayenne pepper.
Stir the nuts well to distribute seasonings.  Cool and store the
pecans in a covered, airtight container.

     You can also toast pecans in an electric skillet or in a
skillet on top of the range.  Be sure to use low heat and stir
the pecans often.  Toasted pecans are great party treats and
snacks.  They're a good source of protein and B vitamins, too.
-End-
-Title-
Using Leftover Turkey
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Using Leftover Turkey

     To get the best from leftover turkey, take care of it from
the beginning.  Refrigerate it immediately after the meal.
Remove stuffing and put in a separate container for storage.
Take the turkey meat off the carcass and put it in an airtight
container in the refrigerator.

     Unfortunately, the practice of leaving the holiday feast in
a warm oven or on the table at room temperature for the evening
meal is not -- repeat not -- safe.  Certain foods at these
temperatures can harbor bacteria that cause food poisoning.  The
leftovers that you put in your refrigerator will need to be used
in two or three days.

     You may want to freeze some of your turkey leftovers for
later use.  Wrap the meat in freezer paper or heavy-duty aluminum
foil, or you can use a freezer carton or bag.  Be sure to press
all the air out and wrap it securely to keep the meat from drying
out.  For the best quality, you shouldn't store cooked turkey
more than a month.  Although the meat will be safe to eat for
longer than a month, the quality begins to deteriorate after that
length of time.

     Now that you know how to store the turkey safely, let's move
on to using leftover turkey.

     Casseroles are always a favorite, and there are many recipes
from which you can choose.  You can stir-fry turkey and vegetable
pieces together to camouflage what was once part of a holiday
meal.  Not only is this delicious, it's low-fat and low-calorie.
Leftover turkey can also be combined with frozen green peas,
fresh mushrooms, and water chestnuts.  Chunks of leftover ham or
beef with other vegetables could also be prepared in the same
way.

     Of course, there are always the infamous turkey sandwiches,
but try them with a new twist.  Try pita bread, sometimes called
pocket bread, lined with lettuce then filled with turkey salad
made with turkey chunks, celery for crunch, tomatoes and hard-
cooked eggs.

     One last thought -- don't throw away the turkey carcass.
Boil it and make turkey and corn chowder, turkey-noodle soup or
even turkey gumbo.

-End-
-Title-
Cooking Chicken in the Microwave
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                Cooking Chicken in the Microwave

     Chicken is one of those foods that makes you happy you have
a microwave oven.  Not only does chicken cook to perfection in a
microwave oven, it does it in a fraction of the time required by
conventional cooking methods.

     Also, a microwave oven is ideal for defrosting frozen
chicken.  To defrost chicken, simply take the chicken from the
freezer, unwrap it and place it in a casserole or baking dish
that is safe for microwave cooking.

     If your oven doesn't have a defrost power level, you might
try alternating a heating period of three to five minutes with a
standing period of three to five minutes for each pound of frozen
chicken.  Rotate the dish at the end of each heating period.
Separate pieces for faster thawing.

     When cooking chicken in the microwave oven, you should allow
about six to seven minutes of cooking time for each pound of
meat.  However, not all microwave ovens cook at exactly the same
rate, so you should follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

     Here are a few suggestions which should help make your
microwave cooked chicken dinners more appetizing.  To brown
chicken, coat it with soy sauce, paprika, barbeque sauce, brown
bouquet, Worcestershire sauce, or special microwave browning
products.

     Chicken usually cooks best when the oven cooking level is
set on "high."  For less than three pounds of chicken, you may
want to use a cooking level of "medium high" to "high."

     When cooking chicken parts, put the larger, meatier parts
near the outside and tuck the giblets under the breast.

     To keep moisture in the meat and to avoid spatter, cover the
chicken with wax paper, a glass cover, or plastic wrap with one
corner folded back for a vent.

     Remember, standing time is important because chicken
continues to cook after the oven is turned off.
-End-
-Title-
Converting Recipes for Microwave
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                Converting Recipes for Microwave

     After you have some experience with a microwave oven, you'll
probably want to begin converting some of your favorite recipes
for use with the microwave.  You'll be able to convert some
recipes very easily; others may require more experimentation.

     Because microwave ovens cook more quickly and with less
evaporation, you will need to reduce the moisture in the
conventional recipe by one-fourth.  For example, if your recipe
calls for one cup of water, reduce it to three-fourths of a cup.
For this same reason you should use herbs and spices sparingly.
These flavors don't evaporate when they're used in a microwave
oven.

     To help you determine cooking times, remember that one cup
of tap water boils in two and a half to three minutes.  The
average food takes one-fourth the time required in a conventional
oven.  If your favorite casserole takes one hour in a
conventional oven, it should cook in about 15 minutes in a
microwave oven.  The microwave cooking time may take longer than
one-fourth the conventional cooking time for items normally
cooked on top of the stove.  In fact, you may find that you save
very little time, if any at all, by cooking this type food in a
microwave oven.

     Factors which affect the cooking time include such things as
the temperature of the food when you begin cooking it, the shape
of the food, the volume of the food, the density of it or the
weight of it, and the wattage of your oven.

     Look through your microwave cookbooks to find a recipe
similar to yours.  This can sometimes be a big help when you
determine which setting to use to cook your dish.

     As you experiment with converting your recipes, you may find
that you will have to try them more than once before you get the
best results.  Make a note of changes so you will remember them
the next time.
-End-
-Title-
Microwave Utensils
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Microwave Utensils

     Generally, glass, ceramic, pyroceramic, and pottery
containers can be used in the microwave oven.  Use utensils which
have no metal trim anywhere -- this includes trims of gold and
silver.  Some paints or glazes contain metallic oxides made of
substances that shouldn't be put in the oven.

     To test a dish to determine whether it's safe for the
microwave oven, put one cup of tap water in the oven with the
dish and set the timer for one minute.  If the dish is still cool
when you take it out it can be used.  A hot dish is a warning
that the dish is not suitable for use in a microwave oven.
Corning Ware can be used except for Centura dinnerware and cook
ware covers and the Corelle Living Ware closed handle cups.  The
cups with open handles may be used in the microwave oven.

     The use of plastic utensils is a "maybe" kind of situation.
Tupperware is best used for storing food, not cooking it.
Melamine Ware, Melmac, has a tendency to absorb energy so it
should not be used.  Plastic foam cups and dishes can be used for
a short time.  Some of the heavy duty plastic wraps on the market
may be used in the microwave oven for short periods of time.
Other lightweight plastic wraps have a tendency to become
distorted in the microwave oven.  Wax paper or paper towels are
good covers to use in the microwave oven.  Spatulas and spoons
for non-stick pans can be left in the oven for a short time.
Made-for-microwave products can be used for cooking almost
anything you might cook in a microwave oven.

     Paper such as napkins, towels, plates, cups, frozen food
cartons, freezer wrap and heavy cardboard is suitable for
microwave oven use.  They may help to absorb moisture and prevent
splatter if they're placed over the food.  Rolls and breads can
be heated in a napkin or cloth to prevent them from becoming
soggy.  Avoid cooking foods on paper for long periods.  It is
best to use white paper products.

     Straw or wooden baskets with no metallic paint or staples
can be used for reheating breads.  Wooden spoons can be left in a
dish in the microwave for a short time.  Don't use a wooden spoon
or a dish with a varnish or lacquer finish or one that has been
seasoned with cooking oil.  The heat could ruin the finish.

     Small amounts of aluminum foil can be used to shield those
parts of food that are unevenly shaped, or are overcooking, or
you just don't want to cook.  What you must remember is that you
must have a total of two cups of food in the oven.  Be sure the
aluminum foil used for shielding does not touch the sides of the
oven and that it is smooth.  A spoon accidentally left in the
dish, a foil-lined paper sack, a metal ring on a dish, or a metal
tie on a loaf of bread will act as an antenna and cause arcing in
the oven.
-End-
-Title-
Adolescent Weight Control
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                    Adolescent Weight Control

     The best way for teens to lose weight is to increase their
activity.  Activity uses up calories.  Teens are still growing,
so it is dangerous to restrict their calorie intake severely.
Too few calories may mean they won't grow in height or that
developing body organs may be damaged.

     Teenage boys need 2,700 to 2,800 calories each day, and
teenage girls need 2,100 to 2,200 calories.  Choosing foods
wisely will supply both the energy and nutrients needed for rapid
growth and hormonal changes.

     Teenagers who want to lose weight should cut down on foods
which provide calories but few nutrients.  These foods include
fats, sweets and alcohol.  Soft drinks and candy bars are good
examples.

     A realistic weight loss of one to two pounds a week is best.
Weight lost slowly is more likely to stay off.  Keeping a food
diary chart for a few days can help young people realize that
eating habits are tied to activities like watching television and
to moods such as boredom.  A food diary should include
information on foods eaten, as well as when, where and how much
food was eaten.

     Two serious disorders affect mainly teenagers.  They are
anorexia nervosa and bulimia.  Anorexia nervosa is really self-
starvation.  It can result in severe and even life-threatening
malnutrition.

     Bulimia is excessive eating followed by forced vomiting.  It
can lead to tooth decay, throat and esophageal irritation,
dehydration and stomach rupture.  Therapy for these two disorders
includes medical attention, psychological counseling and
extensive nutrition education aimed at making sufferers aware of
the effects of their behavior on their health.

     When teenagers eat and exercise properly, they are happier
with their self image and feel more in control of their life.
-End-
-Title-
Calories Do Count
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                        Calories Do Count

     No matter what claims are made by weight loss plans, the
only proven way to lose weight is to eat fewer calories than your
body needs.  The best way to do this is to reduce the amount of
food eaten and increase physical activity.

     You may associate calorie cutting with weight control, but
may not understand exactly what it is you're counting.  A calorie
is a measure of energy or the ability to do work.  The food you
eat is your energy intake and physical activity is your energy
output.  The calorie is defined as the amount of energy needed to
raise the temperature of one gram of water by one degree Celsius.

     Carbohydrates, fats and protein -- three of the nutrients
that food provides -- also have the capacity of producing energy.
The amount of energy food contains is measured in 1,000-calorie
units, which are called "kilocalories."  Although the calories
you add up for a day's meals and snacks are actually
kilocalories, the term "calorie" is used to designate this food
energy.

     The number of calories you need depends on the amount of
energy your body uses.  Because people are different, their
caloric needs are different, too.  These calorie differences are
due to differences in basal metabolic rate for basic body
functions such as breathing and heart beating. They're also due
to differences in levels of physical activity, health status,
body size, body composition, and growth stages.  When you
normally take in more calories than your body needs for all of
these activities and functions, the extra calories are converted
to fat and you gain weight.

     The best way to lose this body fat is to decrease food
consumption and increase physical activity.  However, you should
never drastically reduce your food intake.  Diets which contain
too few calories can lead to nutritional deficiencies and poor
health.

     A well-balanced diet, including foods from the basic food
groups, along with a regular program of physical activity,
provides the best means of weight control.
-End-
-Title-
Changing Food Habits
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Changing Food Habits

     Losing weight and keeping it off usually requires changes in
eating habits.  Since human beings are creatures of habit, we
often do things we are not aware of that cause us to either gain
weight or keep us from losing weight.

     A good way to decide if you have some habits that are
keeping you from achieving your weight loss goals is to keep a
food diary for several days or for a week.  A food diary will
help you become aware of how much you are eating, why you are
eating, and your eating patterns.

     In your food diary you'll want to write down the following
things each day: the types and amounts of foods you eat; the
times you eat; the number of minutes you spend eating; the places
you eat; how hungry you are when eating; how you felt when you
were eating; and, other activities related to eating.

     When you enter the types and amounts of foods you eat in
your diary, remember to write down all foods -- meals, snacks and
nibbles -- immediately after you have eaten them.  Do not write
them down before eating.  Wait until you're finished, so you'll
be sure to record exactly what you had.  You may be surprised at
the amounts and kinds of foods you eat regularly.

     By entering the number of times you eat, you may find that
you nibble quite often.

     The number of minutes you spend eating could reveal that
you're eating too fast.  Overweight people often eat fast.
Learning to eat more slowly helps you to recognize when you're
full, and it helps you to enjoy your food more.

     You may eat out often, or when at home you may eat in areas
of the house other than the dining room or the kitchen.  Allowing
yourself to eat only in specified places of your home may help
you reduce your food intake.

     To find out how hungry you are when you're eating, rate your
hunger on a scale of one to four, with one being the least hungry
and four being starved.  If you're not sure whether you're
hungry, ask yourself these questions:  has it been three or four
hours since I last ate?; have I been more active than usual
today?; and, would I be satisfied with a meal of fish or lean
meat and vegetables?  If you answer yes to all these questions,
you're probably hungry.

     Our moods may lead us to want to eat.  How you feel when
eating could effect your eating habits.  Boredom, nervousness,
and loneliness can all cause eating binges.

     Sometimes other activities, such as watching TV or a movie,
working or reading, may be activities you associate with eating
without being conscious of it.

     By examining your food diary, you'll learn a great deal
about your eating habits.  Perhaps you'll find you eat large
amounts when bored, depressed, or frustrated.  You may find a lot
of your eating is just routine, as in joining your children for
cookies and juice when they come home from school.

     Learning more about yourself through your food diary will
help you make changes that can help you achieve your weight loss
goals.
-End-
-Title-
Cooking Methods to Cut Calories
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                 Cooking Methods to Cut Calories

     When it comes to cutting calories in cooking, one of the
first things you need to be able to do is recognize high calorie
foods.  Generally, high calorie foods have these characteristics-
 thick, oily or greasy-crisp, slick, smooth or gooey, sweet or
sticky, compact or concentrated alcohol.

     Generally, low calorie foods have these characteristics--
thin, watery or diluted, bulky or with lots of fiber or
coarseness, water-crisp.

     Now, down to cooking to cut calories.  First, avoid adding
fat to cooked vegetables.  Instead, combine different vegetables
to get variety, for example, green beans and mushrooms, peas and
onions.  Also, cook without added butter, margarine, fat back or
bacon.  Let each person season his or her own food.

     You can also cut down on calories by removing all visible
fat from meat.  Most fish are low in fat.  Fat in poultry is
usually just under the skin, so removing the skin will reduce the
calories.  Use meat drippings after the fat has been skimmed off,
and stay away from "country-style" preparation.  Cooking in
gravies or sauces adds many calories.

     Remember, alcoholic beverages are high in calories.  And
there are loads of calories in the snacks often eaten with
alcoholic beverages.  The famous three martini lunch contains 420
calories and you haven't eaten anything.  Dry wines are lower in
calories than sweet wines.

     And finally, use items containing sugar substitutes in
moderation.  Train your tastes toward fewer sweets.
-End-
-Title-
Dangers of Fad Diets
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Dangers of Fad Diets

     The latest weight reducing diets and aids, like hula hoops
and other fads, are here one day and gone the next.  These diet
fads appeal to many people because they promise an easy, quick
way to lose weight.  Some popular diets allow very little food or
even promote fasting for certain periods.  Other diets promise
miraculous results through the eating of particular foods or the
combination of certain foods.

     The problem with most of these diets is that they're not
balanced and don't provide the necessary nutrients.  If you
follow any of them for a long period of time, they may be
harmful.  In addition, most of these diets don't change your
dietary habits so as to produce lasting weight loss.

     Some weight control fads include low carbohydrate diets.
These diets prescribe foods rich in protein and fat with very
little carbohydrate.  Because  little or no carbohydrate is
allowed, these diets quickly lose their appeal.  The weight loss,
especially the large amount at the beginning of these diets, is
primarily water.

     Low carbohydrate diets also lack essential vitamins and
minerals and could cause elevated blood cholesterol levels and
ketosis.  Ketosis occurs when carbohydrates are not available to
the body for energy.  Substances called ketones build up in the
blood causing it to become acidic.  Symptoms of ketones include
fatigue, weakness, nausea, dehydration, and bad breath.

     Liquid protein or supplemented fasting is supposed to burn
fat while sparing body muscle.  Since most of these diets provide
only three hundred to five hundred calories per day, they are
nutritionally incomplete.  Muscle breakdown may occur due to the
very low calorie content of the diet.  Side effects you may
experience from these liquid diets include nausea, vomiting,
diarrhea, constipation, muscle cramps, fatigue, and heart
irregularities.  Some deaths have been attributed to these diets.

     Fasting is an extreme way to try to lose weight.  One of the
main problems with fasting is that not only is fat burned, but so
is lean body tissue -- which is muscle.  Since no carbohydrate is
eaten with this diet, ketosis occurs with its symptoms.

     Fasting can cause many deficiencies since it lacks all
essential nutrients.  Because your body has mechanisms to adapt
to fasting or starvation, it begins to conserve energy, resulting
in the slowing of weight loss.

     Another weight control fad is diet pills.  These include
appetite suppressants which curb your appetite.  The pills
usually only work a few weeks at the most and may produce
unpleasant side effects.  There is also a danger of potential
abuse of these drugs.

     To lose weight safely and keep it off, your best choice is a
combination of nutritious, well-balanced meals and snacks using
the basic food groups, and a program of regular exercise.  When
you're considering a plan to lose weight, make sure the reducing
plan you're trying is nutritionally sound, does not promise
miraculous results with no effort, and is one that fits your
lifestyle and pocketbook.
-End-
-Title-
Dieting During the Holiday Season
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                Dieting During the Holiday Season

     The holiday season with its rich food and drink may be a
disaster for you if you're trying to lose weight or keep from
gaining any.  The thing to remember at holiday time is that it's
a lot easier to keep pounds off than it is to take them off.

     One way to handle this problem is to be ready for the foods
before you see them.  Learn which party foods are high in
calories and which are low so you can choose the ones which will
help you with your weight program.

     A calorie counter book can help you with this.  If you're
not familiar with a certain food, you can usually judge its
calorie level by certain characteristics.  For example, a food is
usually low in calories if it is thin and watery or crisp with
watery or bulky-like greens.  On the other hand, a food is likely
to be high in calories if it is greasy or oily, smooth and thick,
or sweet and gooey.

     Alcoholic beverages are often the downfall for people
watching their weight.  A highball usually contains about 150
calories, and a sweet after-dinner drink may contain even more.
A half-cup of eggnog, about four ounces, contains about 170
calories.  Add a half-jigger of alcohol to the eggnog and the
calorie content jumps to 215 calories.  Remember, the higher the
alcohol content of a drink, the higher the calorie content.  A
glass of dry white wine has a lower calorie content of 90
calories.

     Eating fewer calories in regular meals during the holiday
season can help leave room for those extra calories you're likely
to pick up during parties and family gatherings.  But, remember
that the calories in all those sweet snacks you eat during the
holidays count, too.
-End-
-Title-
Exercise and Weight Control
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                   Exercise and Weight Control

     A good weight loss program should include moderate exercise
on a consistent basis.  Most nutrition experts agree that it is
wiser to increase your activity rather than cutting your calories
drastically.  Too low calorie diets can result in nutritional
deficiencies and poor health.

     The type of exercise you choose should be something you like
to do.  Your exercise program should be based on your age, health
and physical condition.  Be sure to check with your physician
about the exercise program before you begin.

     The most beneficial exercise for weight loss and control
involves the use of large muscle groups.  The exercise should be
rhythmic and aerobic, such as walking, running or swimming.  For
good results, you should exercise at least three days a week for
20 to 30 minutes.  Brisk walking for two to three miles at least
three times a week is an excellent choice of exercise.

     When you exercise, you use energy.  A man weighing 150
pounds uses 80 calories walking one mile.  A woman weighing 121
pounds uses 63 calories.  If the man runs one mile, he uses 120
and the woman uses 94 calories.

     Regular exercise also strengthens your heart, improves
muscular endurance, muscular power, flexibility, coordination and
makes you feel better.

     For a winning weight control combination, remember to eat
nutritious, well-balanced meals from a variety of foods and to
exercise regularly.
-End-
-Title-
Foods Lower in Calories
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Foods Lower in Calories

     Some foods or groups of foods, such as the potato, "starchy
foods" and "white foods", have gotten the reputation of being
fattening.  The truth is that since all foods contain calories or
food energy, eating too much of any has the potential for leading
to excess pounds of fat gained.

     Of course, some foods do contain more calories than others.
For example, fat provides twice as many calories per gram as
either protein or carbohydrate.  Foods that contain large amounts
of sugar plus fat are usually higher in calories, also.

     Most vegetables and fruits are fairly low in calories
because many are high in fiber and water.  Since fiber is not
digested it has no calories.  It takes greater amounts of
vegetables and fruits to equal the amount of calories  in foods
containing large amounts of fat or concentrated sweeteners.
Fresh fruits or fruits packed in natural juices or water are also
lower in calories than fruits packed in syrups.

     The way foods are prepared determines how many calories they
contain. For example, a plain boiled or baked potato has about
100 calories while that same potato served as hashed browns would
have 235 calories.

     Dietetic foods are not always low calorie either.  These
foods usually contain sweeteners other than sucrose--table sugar.
These sweeteners, such as sorbitol, yield as many calories when
eaten as table sugar.  For instance, dietetic ice cream provides
about as many calories as regular ice cream.

     There are  also some reduced calorie salad dressings,
margarines and cheeses that contain fewer calories than regular
products because of smaller amounts of fat.  You can find the
number of calories per serving by reading the labels.
Nutritionally sound diets for weight control include a variety of
foods from the basic food groups:  milk and cheese; meat,
poultry, fish and beans; vegetables and fruits; and, bread and
cereal.  These basic foods are usually limited on a weight
control diet, but all are included because they provide not only
calories, but necessary nutrients for good health as well.

     The meat group provides such nutrients as protein, iron, B
vitamins and zinc.  The bread-cereal group gives us carbohydrate,
B vitamins and iron and the whole grain varieties provide fiber.
The vegetable-fruit group is rich in vitamins A and C, as well as
fiber.  The milk-cheese group supplies protein, calcium,
riboflavin and vitamins A and D.

     There's also a food group called the fats, sweets and
alcohol group.  This group includes items that contain fat,
concentrated amounts of sugar or alcohol.  We get food energy or
calories from this group but few other nutrients.  For this
reason, the group is usually drastically limited on weight
control diets.
-End-
-Title-
Menu Planning for the Dieter
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Menu Planning for the Dieter

     Low-calorie meals don't have to be boring.  Many people who
thought that low-calorie meals consisted only of such foods as
plain cottage cheese, celery sticks and steamed spinach are
finding excitement in preparing low-calorie gourmet food.  You'll
find that foods don't have to be dripping with rich sauces or
coated with batters to be delicious.

     Some low-calorie main dishes you may want to try include the
following:

     Roll up cooked, tender, crisp broccoli spears in thin slices
of cooked chicken or turkey.  Top them with thin slices of
mozzarella cheese, a sprinkle of parsley and pimento strips.
Then, heat until the cheese melts.

     Try cooking trimmed lean beef or pork strips which have been
marinated in lemon and serve over a vegetable mix of cauliflower
florets, peas, carrots and asparagus pieces.

     Use an outdoor grill to cook lean beef, veal or lamb shish
kebabs.  Trim the fat from the meat and cut it into cubes.  Then
marinate the cubes in a mixture of lemon juice, ginger and
coriander.  Alternate the meat cubes with cherry tomatoes, green
pepper chunks, fresh mushrooms and pearl onions. Then, baste the
shish kebabs with marinade while you're grilling them.

     For a tasty low-calorie fish dish, roll flounder or cod
fillets around tender, crisp green beans cooked in two
tablespoons of chopped onion.  Top with tomato sauce seasoned
with oregano, basil and garlic powder, sprinkle of grated
Parmesan cheese and bake until the fish is tender and flaky.

     The bread and cereal group needs to be included in any
weight control program.  Some ideas for lower calorie grains
include the following.

     Cook rice in a flavored beef or chicken broth for an
interesting taste without lots of calories.

     Top a baked potato with a tablespoon of plain yogurt, a
sprinkle of grated, low fat cheese and some chives to reduce
calories.

     Steam vegetables until they're tender and crisp.  Then,
season with lemon juice, herbs or spices instead of using salt
and high calorie sauces made with butter and margarine.

     For dessert, use fresh fruits in season.  If you use canned
or frozen fruits, choose fruits that are canned in natural juices
or water and unsweetened frozen fruits.

     A scoop of frozen lemon yogurt served on a slice of honeydew
melon, topped with fresh raspberries makes an elegant dessert
that's not loaded with calories.

     Don't let yourself get in a rut on your weight control diet.
Try developing your own new tasty menu ideas.
-End-
-Title-
Tricks to Make You Slim
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Tricks to Make You Slim

     If you're trying to lose weight or keep off the weight
you've already lost, try these tricks.

     Drink a glass of water before meals.

     Control those mealtime hunger pangs about a half hour before
a meal with a small amount of carbohydrate, such as a glass of
vegetable juice, some fruit, or a couple of crackers.

     Eat slowly and put your fork down after each bite.

     Try eating with the wrong hand or with chopsticks if you
can't slow your eating pace.

     Serve your plate from the kitchen rather than leaving
serving bowls of food on the table which might tempt you to eat
more.

     Learn to stop eating before you feel full.  The hunger you
may still feel will disappear within about 20 minutes after you
stop eating.

     Eat meals regularly and on schedule.  You're much more
likely to overeat later or grab high calorie snacks if you've
missed a meal.

     Keep low calorie snacks handy for hunger attacks.

     As much as possible, be flexible with your diet.  Learn how
to budget calories to take advantage of holiday and special
meals.

     Stay busy with things you like to do.  This helps keep your
mind off of food.

     You can burn extra calories by walking instead of driving to
work or by parking at the far end of the lot if you drive.  Take
stairs instead of the elevator and walk during coffee or lunch
breaks.

     A good way to control your weight is to organize an exercise
club with your friends at work or close to home.

-End-
-Title-
Your Daily Calorie Requirement
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                 Your Daily Calorie Requirement

     A commonly asked question by those interested in weight
control is, "How many calories do I need every day?"

     The number of calories or the amount of food energy you need
depends on many different factors such as your age, health, body
type and size and your activity.  Some very active persons are
able to eat larger amounts of food and not gain weight while
those who are less active do gain weight.  People who have
rounded, soft body types--called endomorphs--seem to gain weight
more easily than those who have slender, wiry body types--called
ectomorphs.

     The Food and Nutrition Board of the National Research
Council has suggested an intake of 2,700 calories a day for men
between the ages of 23 and 50 and 2,000 calories a day for women
between these ages.  These caloric allowances are suggested
averages for adults performing light work.  Your individual
calorie need may be more or less.

     One way to find out how many calories are needed to maintain
your present weight is to multiply the amount of energy you use
times your weight.  If you are inactive, use 14 to 16 calories to
multiply.  If you're moderately active, use 16 to 18 calories.
If you're very active, multiply your weight by 18 to 20 calories.
For example, an inactive woman weighing 120 pounds would multiply
120 by 14, which would equal 1,680--the amount of calories needed
each day to maintain her present weight.

     If you want to lose weight, you have to burn more calories
than you take in.  One pound of body fat represents 3,500
calories.  In order to gain one pound, you must eat 3,500
calories more than your body needs.

     Therefore, in order to lose a pound of body fat, you must
eat 3,500 calories less than your body needs.  If you reduce your
caloric intake 500 calories a day for a week, the projected loss
in body fat would be one pound.  Remember that you are looking at
pounds of actual body fat loss, not just changes in body weight.

     Weight loss may vary for several reasons.  On some types of
weight control diets, more fluid is lost at first, resulting in
sharper weight drops initially.  As weight loss continues, the
body requires fewer calories for its functions so the rate of
weight loss may be slow.  Daily changes in body fluid also affect
your weight.  Just because you weigh one pound more in the
evening than you weighed that morning doesn't mean that you've
gained one pound of body fat.

     The best combination for losing weight and maintaining it is
eating a variety of well-balanced, nutritious foods from the
basic food groups and following a program of regular exercise.
-End-
-Title-
Ballpoint Ink
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                          Ballpoint Ink

     If you keep getting ballpoint ink stains on your clothes or
other fabrics, you might want to get a product called Inknix.
You pretreat ink stains with it before washing or sponging the
fabric with a dry cleaning solvent.

     Inknix is available in some stationery office supply stores.
It's manufactured by Ozburn-Janesville Corporation of Janesville,
Wisconsin.

     If you don't have Inknix, here is another method. Sponge the
ink mark with rubbing alcohol.  Next, rub detergent into the
stain.  Then rinse with warm water.

     If the stain remains, try applying lukewarm glycerine.  You
can buy glycerine at drug stores and department stores.  To use
glycerine, rinse a cloth in hot, sudsy water.  Squeeze it almost
dry, then pour a little glycerine on the warm cloth and rub into
the stain.  Let it set a minute or two, then work the glycerine
into the stain.  Now, rub the stain again.  Rub briskly if the
stain is on a sturdy fabric, but carefully if it's a delicate
fabric.  Let the glycerine set a minute or two longer.  Rub again
and rinse the stain.

     If the stain remains, repeat the process.  If the fabric is
bleachable, you can remove any remaining stain by washing it with
detergent and chlorine bleach.  But, be sure to follow the
directions on the bleach container.

     For valuable items, take them to the dry cleaners as soon as
possible after the stain is discovered.  Be sure you point out
the stain to the dry cleaner.  You shouldn't try to remove ink
stains from suede or leather garments at home.  Always take these
to the dry cleaners.

     The Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing Inknix.
There may be other products that will work equally well in
removing ink stains.  You may find these by checking labels or
asking for such products where cleaning supplies are sold.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Candle Wax from Fabrics and Surfaces
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
          Removing Candle Wax from Fabrics and Surfaces

     Don't try to remove fresh candle wax from furniture by
scraping it with your fingernail.  It's tempting, but the hot wax
softens the furniture's surface and makes marring easy.  Wait
until the wax hardens, then scrape it gently with a dull knife or
thin piece of plastic, such as a credit card.  If you're using a
credit card, hold the card in both hands.  Tilt the card slightly
and scrape gently so you can remove the wax without gouging the
surface.

     After removing as much of the wax as possible, wipe the area
with a cloth wrung out in warm, sudsy water or dab the spot with
cleaning fluid.  You might try a product called Energine, Carbona
or Renuzit.  Dry the surface, then wipe it with your choice of
furniture polish, wax or oil.  Rub with the grain until no sign
of the stain remains.

     To remove candle wax from table linens, first scrape away as
much wax as possible with a plastic card or dull knife.  Next,
place a piece of blotting material, such as a white paper towel
or napkin, under the stain.  Place another piece of blotting
material over the wax stain.  Press it with a warm iron.  The
warm iron will melt the wax into the paper.  Change the paper as
it becomes soiled.

     If a colored dye remains, sponge the dye stain with
denatured alcohol diluted with two parts of water.  If the
article is washable, wash it in warm, sudsy water.  If it's not
washable, sponge it with a dry cleaning solvent.

     Wax that has dripped onto the curves and crevices of a metal
candlestick is hard to remove.  To speed up the process, put the
candle holder in the freezer.  Once the wax freezes, it can be
peeled off easily.

     Change candles before they burn too low.  Extinguish flames
by snuffing rather than blowing.  This way you will be less
likely to get wax on linens and furniture.

     There may be other commercial products available that will
work equally well to remove candle wax stains.  Check labels or
ask for these products where cleaning supplies are sold.

     No endorsement is implied nor is discrimination intended by
mentioning commercial products in this program.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Chewing Gum From Fabric
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                Removing Chewing Gum From Fabric

     If you've gotten yourself into a sticky situation by getting
chewing gum on your clothes, there are ways to get it off that
are safe for your garments.

     First, using a dull knife, lift the gum off the fabric.
Then, rub ice on the stain.  This will help harden the rest of
the gum so you can lift it off more easily.

     If the fabric is washable, you should spray the stain with a
pre-wash spray.  Let it set for five or ten minutes.  Now,
saturate the stain again with the pre-wash spray, rubbing the
gummed area to dissolve the gum.  Work some laundry detergent
into the stain, then rinse it well with hot water.  You should
hold the stained area under the faucet so the gummy residue can
be rinsed off.

     If the gum remains, repeat the process.  If not, launder the
item using a bleach that is safe for that fabric.

     To remove gum stains from non-washable items, you should
sponge the stained area with a cleaning fluid such as Energine,
Renuzit or Carbona.  You can usually get these products in drug
stores or houseware departments.

     Always test cleaning fluid in a place that doesn't show.  If
the fluid doesn't seem to hurt the fabric, you can use it.  Place
the stained side of the fabric face down on a clean paper towel.
Sponge the back of the stain with cleaning fluid.  If the paper
towel doesn't absorb the gum, tap the back of the stained area
with a spoon.  The sturdier the fabric the harder you can tap.
Repeat the process until the stain is gone.

     For valuable, dry-clean-only items, have the stain removed
professionally.  Be sure to point the stain out to the dry
cleaner.

     The Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing any
products mentioned.  There may be others that work equally well
to remove chewing gum stains.  Check labels or ask for such
products where cleaning supplies are sold.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Coffee and Tea Stains
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                 Removing Coffee and Tea Stains

     Stains left by coffee or tea spilled on washable garments
are a cleaning job you can do yourself.  But, if the stain is on
a non-washable fabric, you should take it to the dry cleaners.

     If your washable garment was stained by black coffee or tea
without sugar or milk, mix a solution of one quart warm water, a
half teaspoon liquid dishwashing detergent and a tablespoon of
white vinegar.  Soak the garment in this solution for 15 minutes.
Work detergent into stain, rinse, and launder.

     If the stain persists, soak the garment for 30 minutes in a
solution of one quart warm water, a tablespoon of an enzyme
product, such as Biz.  Launder it again, and use a bleach that is
safe for the fabric to remove the last traces of the stain.
Directions on the bleach container will give you the amount of
bleach to use.

     If the coffee or tea contained cream, start by sponging the
stain with a dry cleaning solvent such as Carbona, Energine or
Renuzit.  Or, saturate the stain with a pre-wash soil and stain
remover.

     Next soak the garment for 15 minutes in a solution of a
quart of warm water, a half teaspoon of liquid dishwashing
detergent and a tablespoon of white vinegar.  Rinse with water,
sponge the stain with alcohol and then launder.  You may add a
bleach safe for the fabric to the wash to remove the last traces
of the stain.  Follow directions on the bleach container.

     If the coffee or tea had both sugar and cream in it, you
should immediately sponge the stain with cold water.  Next, soak
the stained area in a solution of a quart of warm water, a half
teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent and a tablespoon of
white vinegar.  Let the garment soak in the solution for 15
minutes.  Then rinse it with water, sponge it with alcohol and
launder it.  You may want to use a bleach safe for the fabric to
remove the last traces of stain.

     To remove coffee and tea stains from washable fabrics and
linens, you may also use one of the products that clean coffee
and tea pots. Follow directions on the container.

     The Cooperative Extension Service does not endorse any of
the products mentioned.  There may be other products or
procedures that will remove coffee and tea stains equally well.
Check labels or ask for such products where cleaning supplies are
sold.
-End-
-Title-
Cosmetic Stains
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                         Cosmetic Stains

     Cosmetic stains usually don't ruin garments.  Generally,
these stains can be removed from clothing with just a little
effort.

     Cosmetics come in two types - greasy and non-greasy.  Non-
greasy cosmetics include powdered makeup, eye shadow, blusher and
similar items.  Greasy cosmetics are lipstick, rouge, liquid or
cream makeup, and mascara.

     Remove non-greasy cosmetic stains by dampening them with
water first.  Then, rub the area with a paste made from detergent
granules and water.  You also can use liquid detergent and water.

     If the stain is from oily cosmetics, pre-treat the area with
a pre-wash soil and stain remover.

     Or, you can place the stain face down on paper towels and
sponge the back of the stain with a dry cleaning solvent such as
Renuzit, Energine, Carbona, or some other spot remover.  You can
buy these at drug stores and grocery stores, and sometimes in
clothing and department stores.

     As you sponge the back of the fabric, move the fabric to a
clean area of the paper towel frequently so the towel will take
out more of the color.  Dampen the stain with water and work
detergent into the stained area.

     Rinse and launder the garment.  If the stain is still there,
treat it with chlorine bleach, if that's safe for the fabric.  If
the item is non-colorfast, use a bleach that's safe for colors.

     For stains on suedes, leather garments and other valuable
non-washable items, have them professionally cleaned.  It's
safest not to try to remove stains from these garments at home.
When you take the garment to the cleaners, point out the stain to
the clerk.

     In emergency situations, non-greasy spots may be dabbed with
club soda.  The bubbling of the carbonated water will generally
remove the stain.  Don't over wet the spot, though.  Follow the
club soda dab with a brisk rub using a clean, dry paper towel or
handkerchief.

     The Cooperative Extension Service does not endorse any of
the items mentioned.  There may be other products that will work
equally as well.  Check labels or ask for such products where
cleaning supplies are sold.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Crayon Stains
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Removing Crayon Stains

     If crayons go through the laundry and leave spots on
clothes, don't despair.  There are ways to remove crayon stains.

     With just a few spots on a washable garment, you can remove
the surface crayon wax with a dull knife.  Next, you should place
the stained area between paper towels and press it with a warm
iron.  Place the garment with the stain face-down on the paper
towels and sponge the back of the remaining stain with a pre-wash
spray or a dry cleaning solvent.  You might use Renuzit,
Energine, Carbona, or other solvent spot removers.  You can buy
these spot removers at drug stores and grocery stores, as well as
some clothing and department stores.

     After sponging with the solvent, let the fabric dry, then
launder it with soap.  If traces of color remain, you can wash it
again using chlorine bleach, if that's safe to use on that
fabric.  If not, soak the garment in an enzyme pre-soak or oxygen
bleach with the hottest water safe for the fabric.  Now, launder
the garment.

     But, if crayon stains have spread throughout a load of
clothes, you need to follow this procedure.  First, wash the
items with the hottest water safe for the fabric, using a laundry
soap and a cup of baking soda.  If color still remains, launder
the items with detergents or soap, using a chlorine bleach if
it's safe for the fabric.  Or, you can soak the garment in an
enzyme product or oxygen bleach, using the hottest water safe for
the fabric.  Now, launder.  Remember - do not dry stained fabrics
in the dryer.  The heat of the dryer causes many stains to set
permanently.

     For valuable, non-washable items, you should have them
professionally cleaned as soon as the spot is discovered.  Point
out the stain to the cleaners.

     You can use a dry cleaning solvent to remove crayon stains
from most upholstery fabrics and other dry-clean-only items.
Don't use the solvents on leather, suede or vinyl upholstery.  If
you're not sure if a solvent is safe to use on your dry-clean-
only clothes, check the label.  Test the solvent on a place that
doesn't show to see if it will harm the fabric.  If the fabric
isn't harmed, sponge the solvent onto the stained area.  Sponge
it again if the stain remains.

     When sponging the solvent on piled fabric, rub in the
direction of the pile.

     If you get crayon stains on vinyl, clean them with a heavy-
duty liquid laundry detergent, or make a paste with dry laundry
detergent and warm water.  If the stain remains, sponge the vinyl
with rubbing alcohol.  But, remember to test alcohol on a place
that won't show before putting it on the vinyl.

     If suede or leather get crayon stains, you shouldn't try to
clean these at home.  Take these items to the cleaners.

     The Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing any
products by mentioning them.  There may be other products that
will work equally well.  Check labels or ask for such products
where cleaning supplies are sold.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Food Stains from Carpet
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                Removing Food Stains from Carpet

     According to the old saying, "There's many a slip 'twixt the
cup and the lip."  And those slips can result in stains.

     Blot up spills as soon as they occur with a clean, dry cloth
or paper towel.  If you spill moist food onto the carpet, you
should clean it up before it seeps down into the carpet and the
carpet backing.  Scoop up the spill with a spoon, knife or
spatula.  Try not to press the spill into the carpet.

     You should blot the soiled area with a cloth or sponge wrung
out in a quart of water mixed with a teaspoon of liquid
dishwashing detergent and a teaspoon of white vinegar.  Don't wet
the carpet more than necessary, and towel dry the area after
cleaning.  You can cover the area with a padding of paper towels
to absorb the remaining moisture and speed up drying.

     For greasy, oily stains that won't dissolve in water, blot
the stained area with a cleaning solvent or spot remover.  You
can buy these at drug stores and grocery stores or in some carpet
and department stores.  Businesses that rent rug cleaning
equipment often have carpet spot removers.

     Read container directions and follow them.  Some cleaners
can't be used on foam or rubber.  Test the spot remover on a
place that won't show before putting it on the stained area.  If
it doesn't appear to harm the carpet or the pad, apply it.  After
the stain is gone, brush the pile lightly.  Don't step on the
cleaned area until it dries.

     If the stain persists, call a professional cleaner.  Some
food and beverage stains contain red coloring and can't be
removed.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Food Stains From Upholstered Furniture
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
         Removing Food Stains From Upholstered Furniture

     Knowing what kind of stain you have on your upholstered
furniture is the key to removing the stain.

     A word of caution, though.  Some upholstered fabrics shrink
or their colors bleed when they get wet.  Always test the
cleaning method on a hidden area before cleaning.  If bleeding or
shrinking occurs, get professional advice.  For example, some
velvets can't be cleaned by home methods.

     But, once you know the kind of stain, many upholstery
fabrics can be cleaned with home methods.

     For hard candy, which is basically sugar and water, scrape
off the candy with a dull knife or rounded spoon.  Sponge the
stained area lightly with a cloth dampened in cool water.  If
this doesn't work, sponge the area with a solution of water and
detergent.

     To remove fruit stains, scrape off the pulp.  Next, blot the
area with a clean cloth and cool water.  Mix clear vinegar with
detergent and water and sponge the stained area, then blot it
dry.  Rinse the stained area with cool water to remove traces of
vinegar.

     To treat an egg stain, remove as much of the egg as possible
with the dull side of a knife.  Sponge the stained area lightly
with a solution of ammonia and cold water.  Note - use cold
water, not warm or hot water.

     Stains from dairy products, soft candies such as chocolates,
and greasy spills require a cleaning solvent.  You can buy
solvents at drug stores and grocery stores, and in some furniture
and department stores.  Among the spot removers you might look
for are Goddard's, Energine, or Carbona.  Lightly sponge the
solvent onto the stained area, then blot with a clean, absorbent
cloth.

     Dry cleaning solvents can damage some vinyl.  So, you should
wipe stained areas on vinyl with heavy duty liquid laundry
detergent or a paste made from dry laundry detergent and warm
water.  If the stain remains, sponge with rubbing alcohol.  But,
remember to test all solutions on a hidden area before trying it
on the stain.

     To be safe, don't try to remove major stains on suede and
leather upholstery with home methods.  Have these professionally
cleaned.

     The Cooperative Extension Service intends no endorsement of
the products mentioned.  There may be other products that will
work equally as well.  Check labels or ask for such products
where cleaning supplies are sold.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Stains Caused by Fruit Juices, Berries, Jam, Jellies
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
  Removing Stains Caused by Fruit Juices, Berries, Jam, Jellies

     The most important rule to remember in treating stains
caused by fruit or fruit juices is never to use soap.  Soap will
set the stain.

     Instead of using soap, apply an enzyme pre-soak, such as
Biz, to stained areas or soak the stains in cold water.  Next,
work a liquid detergent into the stain, then launder the garment,
using the bleach recommended for that fabric.

     If the stain is set, you may need to sponge it with white
vinegar; then work a detergent into the stained area before
laundering.

     For fabrics that can stand it, pour boiling water through
the stain.  You do this by placing the stained area over a bowl
and holding the fabric in place with a rubber band.  You still
may see some discoloration.  Work detergent into the stain and
launder the garment, using the right bleach for the fabric.

     The Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing any
products mentioned.  There may be other products which will work
equally well to remove stains.  Check labels or ask for such
products where cleaning supplies are sold.
-End-
-Title-
Gray Dingies in Your Laundry
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Gray Dingies in Your Laundry

     If your white laundry has a bad case of the "gray dingies,"
it might be caused by a number of things.

     Sometimes the gray dingies are caused by washing white and
colored items together.  Little by little, colored dyes may
transfer to the white items.  The cure - sorting the items you
wish to keep white.  If you don't have the time or desire to do
this, it might be best not to buy white items.

     Many items such as underwear, bed linens and towels are now
available in a variety of colors.  If you choose related colors,
like blues and greens, or beiges and tans for example, you won't
have to sort as much.  This could save you time, and if your
piles have been smaller than a full load, it can save money.

     Gray dingies can also be caused by not using enough
detergent.  Usually it's safe to follow the directions on the
detergent container.  But, detergent manufacturers' directions
are for washing a "normal" load of clothes with "average" soil in
16 gallons of water with "average" hardness.  In hard water, or
if the laundry is extremely dirty, you may have to add extra
detergent.  You put in less detergent if your water is soft, if
clothes are just lightly soiled, or if the load is small.  But,
more laundry problems are caused by too little detergent than by
too much.

     Another cause of the gray dingies is overloading the washing
machine's tub or basket.  You've probably had the urge to pack
clothes into the washer basket.  But, when you do this, the
clothes cannot move freely, resulting in poor washing and
unremoved soil.  To estimate the right-sized load, place dry,
unfolded clothes in the washer loosely until it is about three-
quarters full.

     But, if you're planning to use the low-water level, load
clothes until the washer basket is less than a third full.

     Non-phosphate detergents, particularly the granular type,
can cause the gray dingies.  If you're using a non-phosphate
detergent, use the hottest water possible and dissolve the
detergent in the water before adding the clothes.  If you have
hard water, you might want to add about a third to a half cup of
packaged water softener along with the detergent.

     Not using hot enough water is a cause of the gray dingies.
Lowering the thermostat on the hot water heater saves energy but
can cause laundry problems.  Water heated to 140 to 150ø removes
soil best.

     If the gray dingies have already struck your laundry, here's
what you can do.

     Check labels to be sure fabrics can be washed and bleached.

     Fill the washer with water as hot as possible.  You may even
want to add some boiling water to washer as it is filling if the
water temperature is not very hot.  Add twice as much detergent
as you would normally use.

     Place grayed clothes in washer and agitate for about four
minutes on the regular cycle.

     Stop the washer to add one cup of chlorine bleach diluted in
one quart of water.  If your washer has a bleach dispenser, add
the bleach to the dispenser.  If you don't have a dispenser on
your washer, add the bleach and water solution slowly, so the
bleach can mix with washer water before touching clothes.

     Be careful using bleach.  It helps laundry by disinfecting,
removing soil and whitening fabrics, but it can also remove
color, rip, tear or burn holes in clothes.  Never pour bleach
directly on garments.  Always dilute it with at least four parts
of water and mix well before adding to clothes.

     Agitate clothes in the bleach solution for another four
minutes.

     Now, stop the washer and let the clothes soak for about 15
minutes.

     Reset the washer so it has about 10 minutes of wash time,
then restart the machine and let it complete the cycle.

     If your clothes still are grayish, repeat the process until
they are white.

     On bright, sunny days, hang white clothes out and let
nature's bleach, the sun, continue the whitening process.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Grease from Fabric
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                   Removing Grease from Fabric

     To remove grease stains from washable fabric, pre-treat the
stains with a pre-wash spot remover or a cleaning fluid.  Rub the
stain with detergent.  Launder the garment in warm water, using
plenty of detergent.  Then, rinse it.  Repeat the process if the
stain remains.

     For nonwashable items, sponge a dry cleaning solvent on the
stain.  You may want to try Energine, Carbona, or Renuzit.  Other
commercial products may work as well.  Check labels or ask for
these products where cleaning supplies are sold.

     Grease stains on upholstered furniture are common in active
households.  When you're treating these, it's important to pre-
test the fabric for color bleeding and shrinkage.  Try the
recommended cleaning method and solution on a hidden area other
than a seam.  For a sure test, allow the fabric to set from one
to two hours after the treatment.  If it bleeds or shrinks,
you'll need to ask for professional advice and help.

     To treat grease stains, remove as much of the stain as
possible by scraping the area with the dull side of a knife.
Then, using a dry cleaning solvent, sponge the area lightly.
Blot, rather than rub, the fabric.  Use a clean portion of the
cloth as you sponge, so you won't return grease to the fabric.
Be careful not to soak the fabric with solvent.  Apply it
sparingly.

     If discoloration from dirt in the grease or oil remains,
sponge the area with lukewarm detergent and water.  To remove the
detergent solution, sponge the area with a clean cloth that's
been dampened with clear, cold water.  Dry the treated area with
an absorbent cloth, tissue or sponge.  This will keep the liquids
used in cleaning from reaching the filling material.

     The Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing any
products mentioned.  There may be other products which will work
equally well to remove stains.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Mildew from Clothes
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Removing Mildew from Clothes

     Mildew on clothes is a common problem in the summer when
temperatures and humidity are high.  Mildew leaves a musty odor,
it discolors fabrics and it sometimes causes fabrics to rot.
Molds which cause mildew are always in the air, but they need
moisture to grow.  Items that are left damp or dirty are prime
targets for mildew.  Clothes dampened by rain or perspiration
should be dried before being hung in a closet or put into the
clothes hamper.

     If your house is moist, leave drawers and cabinets open for
several hours occasionally.  This stirs up the enclosed air and
keeps moisture from accumulating.  To dry out the air in a
closet, leave a small electric light burning continuously for a
day or two.  Hang a mildew inhibitor in an enclosed closet.  Some
mothballs and moth cakes contain mildew inhibitors.

     Store shoes on shelves at the top of the closet rather than
on the floor if you think the situation is right for mildew.

     If mildew has already appeared on clothing or household
fabrics, remove the spots as soon as you discover them.  Mold can
weaken materials.  Begin by brushing off mold outdoors so you
don't scatter mildew spores in the house.  On washable fabrics,
pre-treat by rubbing detergent into the dampened stain.  Then,
launder the items in hot water, detergent and chlorine bleach, if
it is safe for the fabric.  If the item isn't bleach safe, soak
it in an oxygen bleach that is safe for colors, then wash it.
Take non-washable fabrics to the dry cleaners and tell them what
the stain is.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Nail Polish from Fabric and Carpet
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
           Removing Nail Polish from Fabric and Carpet

     When you're trying to remove nail polish from fabric,
carpeting or upholstered furniture, you have two problems:  the
first one is removing the polish and the second one is removing
the color stain left in the fibers.

     Both nail polish and polish remover can damage fibers
seriously, especially acetate.  If the spill occurred on fabric
or carpets that contain acetate, you'll need to call a
professional cleaner.

     Also, some dyes are not colorfast to polish remover.  So,
before you put polish remover on a fabric, test it by applying a
drop or two in an inconspicuous area.  If there's no damage to
the spot, use the following suggestions to remove the polish.

     If the nail polish is still wet, absorb as much of it as
possible on a dry cloth or tissue.  Be careful not to spread the
stain.  Then, go over the stained area with a nonflammable
cleaning solvent.  Apply solvent with quick, light motions.  Wipe
the stained area repeatedly with a cloth dampened in clear water.

     If the nail polish has hardened, apply polish remover to the
stained area with an eyedropper.  Wait a few minutes for the
polish remover to penetrate and soften the polish.  If necessary,
repeat the treatment.

     Here's an alternative for removing hardened nail polish.
First, using a spoon with a dull edge, scrape off as much polish
as possible.  Then, apply polish remover to the stained area and
blot the excess.  Go over the stained area with a cloth saturated
with nonflammable cleaning fluid, using light, quick motions.
Then, wipe the stained area with a cloth dampened in clear water.
Don't forget -- always pre-test before you use nail polish
remover on any fabric or carpet.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Perspiration Stains and Odors from Fabric
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
       Removing Perspiration Stains and Odors from Fabric

     To remove perspiration stains from a washable fabric, pre-
treat the garment by soaking it in an enzyme pre-soak product.
Then, wash or sponge the area with a solution of heavy-duty
liquid detergent and water.  You may also treat the discoloration
of fresh stains with a weak solution of colorless, clear ammonia
and water.

     If the stain or odor persists, don't put the garment in a
dryer and don't iron it.  Heat will set the stain.  Instead, soak
the garment overnight in a warm salt solution that contains
three-fourths tablespoon of salt for each quart of water.  Then,
rinse it.  Treat the stained area with an all-purpose detergent
paste and let it stand for 30 minutes.  Then, rinse it again.  If
the stain still persists, treat it with a three percent solution
of hydrogen peroxide and let it stand for another 15 or 20
minutes.  Rinse the garment and launder it.  Repeat the process
if necessary.

     You should take stained, nonwashable clothing to a reliable
dry cleaner.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Rust Stains
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Removing Rust Stains

     If you're attempting to remove rust stains from fabric, you
may want to use a commercial rust remover.  They're available
where cleaning supplies are sold.  Be careful to follow the
directions on the package.  Rust removers can burn your skin, so
be sure they're rinsed well from the fabric.

     If rust stains remain in clothing, apply a mixture of salt
and lemon juice to the stained area.  Let the fabric dry in the
sun, then rinse it and repeat the operation.  Garments made from
synthetic or manmade fibers should be taken to the dry cleaner.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Smoke Odors and Stains from Fabrics
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
          Removing Smoke Odors and Stains from Fabrics

     Families whose homes have caught fire are faced with an
almost impossible task -- removing smoke odor and stains from the
remaining clothes and furniture.

     Smoke seeps through crevices, damaging clothes in closets,
drawers and cabinets.  Two kinds of smoke damage may occur--
visible deposits of burned material and odor.

     To reduce odor after a fire, remove all evidence of charred
or burned surfaces.  Then, wash surfaces and fabrics well to
remove smoke dust particles.

     Visible and odorous smoke damage on washable apparel can
generally be removed by five launderings. If the items can be
bleached, use a laundry detergent in combination with liquid
chlorine bleach.  Follow directions on packages for the amounts
to use for removing stains.

     Send non-washable items to the dry cleaners.  Mask remaining
odor with a pleasant perfume or room deodorizer.  Pure vanilla
extract can help mask smoke odor effectively.  Place small
portions of vanilla extract in open bowls or dab extract on
cotton balls or toweling and place these near air conditioning
and refrigerator vents.  This will circulate the aroma.

     Some dry cleaners have a process that removes smoke odor.
It's called an ozone treatment.  Some dry cleaners and cleaning
establishments have portable ozone-generation units which they
can bring to a home or building to treat the air and all the
items in the area.  These are generally effective in removing
smoke odor.

     There may be commercial products available to help remove
smoke odors and smoke stains.  Ask for them where cleaning
supplies are sold.
-End-
-Title-
Stain Removal from Carpets and Upholstery
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
            Stain Removal from Carpets and Upholstery

     The first rule of stain removal is to remove stains promptly
after they occur.  Many spots are hard to remove if they're
allowed to "set."  Start by scrapping off any excess stain or
blot off liquids with a dry, clean towel or cloth as quickly as
possible.

     Next, pretest the cleaning method you're going to use.
Before you try any solution on a stain, test it to determine what
effect it will have on the fabric or carpet dyes, but be sure you
do your test in an inconspicuous spot such as on the backside or
underside of the chair cushion or in the corner or behind the
drapery area of the carpet.  If it looks as though the solution
doesn't harm the fibers or the dyes of the fabric, that is, if
the colors don't run or bleed or the fabrics don't shrink, then
proceed with removing the stain.  If, on the other hand, the
fabrics do seem to be adversely affected, contact a professional
cleaning service.  Some rayon upholstery fabrics are susceptible
to shrinkage and color bleeding.  Don't use water on these
fabrics - instead use a dry-cleaning fluid.

     New upholstery fabrics sold after 1970 may have a letter
code which indicates the cleaning method that can be used safely.
Check for the code before you apply cleaning or spot removal
materials.

     If the letter "W" is seen, then water and cleaning agents or
foam mixed with water may be used.  If the letter "S" is seen,
then use only dry-cleaning solvents.  Don't use water.  If the
letters "W-S" are seen, then either water-based methods or dry-
cleaning solvents may be used.  If the letter "X" is seen, then
don't use any liquid or foam cleaning agent.  Remove soil by
brushing or vacuuming only or refer the problem to professional
cleaners.

     When you use cleaning materials, always apply them
sparingly with a blotting or patting motion.  Don't soak the
fabric with the cleaning solution.  Dry the area immediately with
an absorbent cloth, a tissue or a sponge to keep the liquids from
reaching the filling materials of cushions or the backing or
pads under carpets.

     Solvent cleaners will soften and destroy natural rubber
foam.  Synthetic fillings react less to solvents, but repeated
excessive applications could cause damage.  Be sure you're in a
well-ventilated room whenever you use dry-cleaning solvents.

     Remove greasy and oily stains such as chocolate, ice cream
or lipstick, with a dry-cleaning solvent such as Energine,
Carbona, or Renuzit.

     In removing chewing gum, candle wax and adhesive tape, rub
them with ice to harden them.  Then scrape off as much as you can
with a dull knife.  Then, wipe any remaining stain with dry-
cleaning solvent.

     Egg and blood stains can be sponged with a diluted solution
of ammonia.  Mix three teaspoons of ammonia in one quart of
water.  If the stain has set, sponge it with a three percent
hydrogen peroxide solution, then add a drop of ammonia to the
stain on top of the peroxide.  Tamp the stain with the back of a
spoon.  Repeat the process if necessary, then blot the area with
clear water.

     You should sponge urine stains with white vinegar diluted
with water, then detergent and cool water.  Finally, blot the
area with clear, cool water.

     Mildew stains should be scraped off, then sponged with mild
suds and wiped with alcohol.

     Milk and vomit stains should be sponged first with dry-
cleaning solvent, then blotted and dried.  Next, apply a solution
made of a small amount of ammonia, mild detergent and water.

     After you've cleaned upholstery fabrics, brush pile fabrics
while they are still damp - brush against the pile after it has
dried.  For carpets, after wetting the surface during cleaning,
place a dry towel or other absorbent material over the area and
weight it down.  If the absorbent material becomes wet, replace
it.  Let it stay on the cleaned area for eight hours and then
remove it.  Brush the area to blend the pile with the surrounding
carpet.

     No endorsement is implied nor discrimination intended by the
mention of commercial products in this program.  There may be
other commercial products available which work equally well in
the removal of stains.  Check labels or ask for such products
where cleaning supplies are sold.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Stains from Clothing
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Removing Stains from Clothing

     The first rule in removing stains is treat the spot
promptly.  If stains are allowed to "set" there is less chance of
removing them.  For washable items which can be laundered in hot
water with chlorine bleach, removal of a majority of stains is
relatively simple.  Hot water, detergent and chlorine bleach will
remove most of the common stains including catsup, chocolate,
cocoa, coffee, cosmetics, cream, crayon, dye, egg, fruit, grass,
grease, mildew, mustard and urine, to name just a few.

     It is, of course, necessary that you remember undiluted
chlorine bleach should never come in direct contact with fabric.
Always dilute the bleach in at least one quart of water.  Many
washers do this automatically if the bleach dispenser is used
correctly.

     Caution:  Liquid chlorine bleach should not be used on wool,
fiberglass, acetate, Spandex, silk or on any garments where the
label warns against its use.  For stains on these fabrics and
other washable fabrics that can't be bleached with chlorine,
launder them with a generous amount of detergent and oxygen
bleach or perborate bleach--ones that say "safe for colors" or
"all purpose."

     For blood stains which have set, apply hydrogen peroxide.
You can get a three percent solution at drug stores.  Add a drop
of household ammonia to the stain on top of the peroxide.  Leave
it there.  Then, repeat the process until the blood stain fades.
Rinse the fabric well and be sure you work in a well-ventilated
area.

     Pre-treat spots and stains such as fresh paint, tar and
asphalt on washable fabrics with a dry cleaning solvent or pre-
wash product.  Some solvents are flammable and others are
poisonous.  Always observe warnings on product labels.  After
pre-treating, launder greasy stains with very hot water and a
generous amount of detergent.

     Don't put the garment in the dryer if the stains remain.
The heat of the dryer may set the stains.  Instead, repeat the
stain removal process.

     For stains on fabrics that cannot be washed, sponge the
stained area lightly with clear water or club soda.  Then, blot
the area dry.  Use a dry cleaning solvent on greasy and oily
stains according to the directions on the package.  Take valuable
non-washable items to a reliable dry cleaner.  And, be sure to
point out the stain to them.

     Sometimes you will get a stain and you won't know what type
it is, which makes it difficult to know what to do.  In these
situations, use the following procedure until the stain is
removed.  Some of these steps may result in the loss of color,
but that may be what it takes to remove the stain.

     First, soak the stain in cold water for at least 20 minutes.

     Second, work a laundry detergent into the stained area and
let it stay there for 30 minutes, then rinse.

     Wash the fabric using a chlorine bleach on white or
bleachable colored cottons, nylons, acrylics, polyesters or
linens.  Use an oxygen bleach on all other fabrics.  An oxygen
bleach is one that's labeled "all-purpose" or "safe for colors."

     If the stain still remains, rub a laundry detergent into the
stain or treat the area with a special laundry additive designed
for pre-soaking according to package directions.  Soak the fabric
from one hour to as long as over night.

     This time launder the fabric in hot water using a generous
amount of laundry detergent.  Set the washer for a full ten-
minute wash and allow it to go through the complete cycle.
However, for washable wool and silk articles, and on non-
colorfast fabrics, use warm rather than hot water and agitate it
only briefly, if at all.

     If the stain still remains, sponge it with a dry-cleaning
solvent such as Kar or Carbona.  If it's necessary, repeat these
steps, rinse thoroughly and launder.

     If the stain still remains, treat it with a rust remover
product such as "RoVer Rust Remover" or "Rit Rust Remover."  Be
sure to follow the manufacturers' directions.  Rinse well.  Or,
moisten the stained area with a solution of one tablespoon of
oxalic acid to one cup of warm water.  Oxalic acid is available
at most drug stores.  CAUTION:  Oxalic acid is highly poisonous.
Use rubber gloves to avoid skin irritation.  Mix the solution in
a plastic or glass container.  Rinse the treated garment
thoroughly to avoid fabric damage.  Never use oxalic acid in the
washer.

     If this doesn't work, place oxalic acid crystals directly on
the stain, moisten it with hot water and allow it to stand for a
few minutes.  Then, rinse the fabric thoroughly.  Use warm water
on wool, silk and non-colorfast fabrics because hot water may
affect them someway.

     If, at this point, the stain still remains and the item can
be bleached, mix equal parts of liquid chlorine bleach and water.
Apply the solution to the stain with an eye dropper.  Large
stained areas can be dipped in the solution.  Repeat the process
if necessary and then launder.  CAUTION:  Liquid chlorine bleach
should not be used on non-colorfast items, wool, silk, fiberglass
or any garment when the label warns against it.  On these
fabrics, sprinkle oxygen bleach directly on the stain and dip it
briefly into hot water.

     If the stain remains after you've gone through all the steps
just mentioned, then most likely nothing can be done to remove
it.

     No endorsement is implied or discrimination is intended by
the mention of commercial products in these recommendations.
There may be other commercial products available that will work
equally well to remove stains.  Check labels or ask for such
products where cleaning products are sold.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Urine Stains from Carpets and Upholstery
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
        Removing Urine Stains from Carpets and Upholstery

     If you have a pet or young child, you're faced with the
possibility of having to remove urine stains.  All stains can't
be removed, nor will all urine accidents result in stains.

     Urine removes waste from the body, so the urine content of
animals, for example, will vary widely with age, sex, breed,
temperament, diet and health.  So, a urine stain, is never
exactly the same material and may produce different reactions
with fabrics and fibers at different times.

     Here's a special note about cat urine.  Unless the stain is
removed immediately, there will be little chance of completely
eliminating the odor.

     Most urine stains, however, can be removed if you work on
them within the first couple of hours.  But, if the stain is not
completely removed, a slow reaction of the urine and carpet or
fabric dyes may occur after a time.  In this case, the only way
to restore carpet color is to apply dye.  A professional carpet
cleaner may be able to re-dye the stained area.  On carpets, one
possibility is to cut out and replace carpet with another
matching piece.  If the urine is completely removed, however,
discoloration is generally not a problem.

     To remove urine, blot the excess liquid as quickly as
possible with clean, absorbent materials such as paper towels or
cloths.  Sponge the area with white vinegar diluted with water;
then sponge the area with detergent and cool water; finally blot
the area with clear, cool water.  Blot the spot as dry as
possible with a clean cloth or towel.

     It's possible to remove the urine from the face of carpet or
upholstery so no stain will develop and still have a problem with
the odor because the urine may have penetrated the padding,
cushioning or underlay.

     If this occurs and there is no way to clean these materials,
after the surface has been cleaned, it may help to disinfect the
area by saturating it with denatured or rubbing alcohol; then
rinse with clear, cool water.  Blot the area as dry as possible.
Place dry, absorbent material over the wet area and press it to
remove moisture.  If the absorbent material becomes wet, replace
it until as much moisture has been removed as possible.
-End-
-Title-
Removing Urine Stains from Clothing and Linens
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
         Removing Urine Stains from Clothing and Linens

     As with all stain removal, it's important to act quickly
with urine stains.  It's especially important to act quickly
because urine may react with fabric dyes causing discoloration.

     For washable fabrics that can be bleached, presoak them in
cold water for at least 30 minutes.  Launder these fabrics in hot
water using detergent and chlorine bleach according to the
directions on the bleach container.

     For washable, non-bleachable items, sponge the stained area
with a solution of equal parts of household ammonia and water,
then launder the item in warm water and detergent.  Rinse it
well.

     For non-washable items, sponge just the stained area with
clear water to which a few drops of ammonia have been added.
Then, sponge with clear water only.  In an emergency, club soda
can be used to sponge the stained area.  Blot the stained area
quickly with a dry absorbent material.  If the color doesn't
change, apply denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol with a
dampened pad or cloth.  But, be sure to pre-test the alcohol on
an inside seam to be sure it doesn't harm the fabric.  Sponge
again with clear water.  Blot dry with an absorbent material.

     Take valuable, non-washable items to a reliable dry cleaner
as soon as possible.  Point out the stain and indicate what kind
it is.
-End-
-Title-
Auto Insurance--Buying
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Auto Insurance--Buying

     Most people know something about automobile insurance, but
many don't understand all parts of an automobile insurance
policy.  The first two coverages you need to know about are types
of liability insurance.

     Bodily injury liability coverage is designed to provide
money to pay claims against you and for the cost of your legal
defense if your car injures or kills another person.

     Property damage liability provides money to pay claims for
damage by your car to various types of property.  This will also
provide money for your legal fees if you are involved in a
lawsuit as a result of a liability insurance claim.

     Both types of liability protection provide coverage for you
and your car as long as you drive it or it is driven by members
of your family or others who drive with your permission.  This
coverage also applies to you and your immediate family when
driving another person's car with permission.

     Medical payments insurance provided through auto insurance
companies pays for medical expenses resulting from accidental
injuries, regardless of who is at fault.  Medical payments cover
you, members of your family and guests in your car.

     Uninsured motorists protection pays for injuries caused by
an uninsured motorist or by a hit-and-run driver.  It provides no
coverage for any property damage, but provides for your medical
claims and for those of your immediate family and guests in your
car.

     Collision insurance pays for damage to your car resulting
from a collision or from a car overturning.  You can collect
regardless of who was at fault in the accident.  If the other
driver appears at fault, however, your insurance company may
collect from the other insurance company.

     Comprehensive physical damage insurance pays for damage when
your car is stolen or damaged by fire, flooding, hail, vandalism,
or other perils such as a rock breaking a windshield.  It doesn't
pay for damage done when you are in a collision.
-End-
-Title-
Auto Insurance--How Much Do You Need?
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
              Auto Insurance--How Much Do You Need?

     Because many kinds of automobile insurance are available,
each person must decide what coverage he or she needs.  Consider
your financial responsibility in choosing your policy.  Every
driver is responsible for driving safely and for injuries or
damages he or she causes.

     You should consider buying more auto liability insurance
than required by law.  Insurance experts recommend buying the
highest limits you can afford.  Most recommend nothing less than
$100,000 for any one bodily injury, $300,000 for all bodily
injuries and $50,000 for all physical damages.  The difference in
price is small, and it is well worth the price for the added
protection you get.

     If you're involved in an accident, you must prove that you
are insured or that you can pay the damages required by law.  If
you drive an older car and do not have a loan on it, you might
consider the cost of collision insurance compared to the car's
value.  If the car has a low resale value, you may want to drop
the collision coverage.  One way to lower your insurance cost is
to take the highest deductible allowed.  This deductible is the
amount you would pay for damages before the insurance company
would begin to help you.  The deductible comes in specified
amounts, such as $50, $100, $200 or $500.

     The more of the loss you can absorb, the lower the cost of
your insurance.  By cutting the cost of processing small claims,
the insurance company can pass its savings along to you in a
lower cost for your insurance.

     You must decide whether you prefer full coverage with a
small deductible and its higher premium or if you want the higher
deductible and a lower premium.

     Before buying auto insurance, talk to several company
representatives.  Ask friends to recommend agents or companies.
Check the yellow pages of the phone book.  Find out about the
laws in your state and decide what coverage is best for you in
relation to your financial situation.

     If your car is older and you are considering a replacement
car, contact your insurance agent to see what the insurance
charges will be.  Do this before making a final decision on the
car.  If you are considering one or more cars, you may want to
base your decision to buy on the cost of insurance coverage.
Repair records of certain cars have caused insurance companies to
set different rates based on the repair costs of different
models.  You may be able to cut insurance costs by checking with
insurance companies before buying a car.
-End-
-Title-
Coupons Save Money
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Coupons Save Money

     Eighty percent of all shoppers now use coupons when
shopping.  Coupons are another way that manufacturers advertise
and encourage the use of their products.  The average coupon is
about 18 cents off, or 15 percent off, the regular price of the
product.

     A smart shopper can use coupons to save money.  First, look
for cents-off coupons.  You can find coupons in weekly newspaper
supplements, magazines, on product boxes, on labels, displays or
tear-off pads on the supermarket shelf or bulletin board.  Some
may be mailed to you.

     One good way to save money is to start a coupon swap club to
take advantage of refunds and coupons.  Be a courteous shopper
and tell the clerk at the checkout counter that you have coupons
to redeem.  This gives the checker time to examine the coupons
for expiration dates and any other policies regarding the store's
acceptance of coupons.  Collecting and organizing coupons becomes
easier the longer you do it.  Here are a few steps to follow:

     Clip and sort the coupons according to specific categories:
dairy foods, meats, pet food, cleaning products, paper products
and any other category that fits your lifestyle.  You may want to
use separate envelopes for each category, or sort your coupons in
a small box. If your shopping list is organized in a similar
fashion, you can find your cents-off coupons quickly before
shopping.  As you file coupons, put those with the earliest
expiration dates in front so you won't forget about them.

     Don't forget that you don't save money by buying an item
simply because you have a coupon.  Check your shopping list
carefully and use coupons only for items on the list.

     Make sure the brand-name product for which you have a coupon
is not more expensive, even with the discount, than similar house
brands and generics.  It doesn't make much sense to buy the
brand-name item just to use the coupon.

     Using coupons will save you money only if you follow these
simple rules for careful shopping:

     Always shop with a list of what you plan to buy.

     Avoid impulse buying, and don't buy anything your family
will not use.

     Study papers for store specials before you shop.  Look for
additional specials advertised in the store.

     Check prices carefully.  Don't be misled by end of the aisle
displays.  Always read signs near products.

     If your retailer doubles the face value of your coupons on a
certain day, plan to do your major shopping on that day.
-End-
-Title-
Stretch Your Dollars
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Stretch Your Dollars

     Families at all income levels are having trouble buying the
things they want or need.  One way to help fight rising prices
and to enjoy your income is to try new ideas that can help
stretch your dollars.

     Here are 12 suggestions:

     DON'T BUY IT.  Ask yourself if you really need the item.  If
it's a "want" item rather than a "need," ask yourself if there is
anything you want more.  Give yourself a day or two to think
about it.  Most items can wait a day or two; a "last chance" to
buy isn't often really a last chance.  If you have a hard time
not buying, stay out of stores, or when you do shop, take only
the money you must have for real needs.

     BORROW.  Sometimes you can borrow an item you need,
especially if it's something you don't need often.  Return
borrowed items in good condition.  Don't forget the library and
other public services when you need to borrow.  Do you have items
you're willing to lend?

     SHARE.  Sharing items with family and friends can save
money.  Neighbors can sometimes share the price of something like
a bushel of apples.  Share ideas, recipes and skills with others.
Sharing usually means that everyone benefits as a result of
getting together on an idea or a project.

     FIND IT FREE.  Free goods and services can really help to
stretch your money.  Tax dollars buy things for the community
that everyone can use.  Parks, playgrounds, community health
services and libraries are among the services available to you
without charge.  Use the free things available to you.

     TRADE.  If you have things in your home that you no longer
need or want, you may be able to trade them to others who can use
them.  What could you trade with a neighbor or friend for
something they have that you may need or want?

     RENT OR HIRE.  When you need something for a short time, it
may be cheaper to rent it.  What kinds of things can you rent?
Count coin-operated laundries, cars, tools and special occasion
clothing.  Sometimes we can rent things when the cost of buying
them is too high for our budget.

     FIND THE BEST BUY.  Finding the best buy may take time and
energy.  The best buy for you is the item that will serve your
needs best at the lowest possible price.  Finding the best buy
may mean looking in several places:  catalogues, newspapers,
calling or going to two or three different stores.  Sometimes
secondhand stores offer the best buy.  If you know exactly what
you need or want, you'll find it easier to get the best buy.

     SUBSTITUTE.  When you go to buy something, ask yourself if
another item at a lower price will do the job just as well.  Many
products have excellent substitutes, and sometimes the substitute
is better than the original.

     MAKE IT.  Sometimes you can save money by making an item.
The materials should cost less than the finished product.  Be
sure to check prices before you supply your know-how, labor and
time to make something.  Sometimes it's cheaper to buy an item
than it is to pay for supplies to make it.

     USE COUPONS OR REFUNDS.  Use cents-off coupons from stores
and manufacturers to stretch dollars.  Save labels and product
packagings and send them in for cash refunds.  Coupons and refund
offers are found in magazines, newspapers and often come in your
mail.

     USE WISELY.  Find ways to make your belongings last longer
or keep from spoiling before you use them up.  Treat the things
you buy as you treat your money!

     CARE FOR.  Almost every product you buy needs some kind of
care.  Read labels and instruction books that come with items you
buy.  Learn to clean and care for the things you own.
-End-
-Title-
Door-to-Door Sales
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Door-to-Door Sales

     Door-to-door sales, or direct selling, is the nation's
oldest method of selling.  To be sure you are buying reputable
products from reliable salespeople, ask some questions before you
buy.  If you don't get satisfactory answers, don't buy.

     When someone rings your doorbell, he or she should tell you
what they have come to discuss.  They should give their name, the
company's name, and the product or service offered.  You should
ask for identification so you can be sure the person is who he
says he is.

     When a product is shown, be sure you understand what it will
do, what it won't do, how it works, how to get repairs and where
to get repairs.  Ask questions.  That's the best way to make a
smart buy.  Check on the guarantee or warranty.  Find out how
long it lasts, what it covers, and what the company's written
policy is on refunds or exchanges.

     Be sure you know how to reach the salesperson and company
after the sale.  Get the name, address and telephone number of
the person or company.  You may need more information later.  Be
sure the sales contract is clear and complete.  By law, a
contract must specify the terms of the sale.  Don't sign a
contract with blank spaces.  Be sure each line is filled in or
marked out before you sign.

     Be sure the finance charge is disclosed fully in an annual
percentage rate term.  Look for incidental charges such as
insurance.  They should be stated as part of the total finance
charge.  Are they stated clearly?  Do you want to pay for them?
You are not required to buy credit life insurance.  Ask for and
keep a copy of any contract you sign.  If, after the salesperson
leaves, you decide to cancel the contract, by law you have three
business days in which to cancel any purchase of more than $25
made in your home.

     The salesperson must tell you about this right to cancel.
Ask about it and find out who to contact if you wish to cancel.
Some companies may offer a longer period for cancellation.  Ask
about the company's policy.

     If you aren't satisfied with the product, call the
salesperson.  If he or she cannot resolve the problem, contact
the company directly.  Make any cancellations in writing.

     If you are still not satisfied, you may want to contact a
local consumer agency such as the Better Business Bureau or the
Governor's Office of Consumer Protection.

     Shopping for products in the convenience of your home can be
satisfying, but you must be careful to ask the right questions
and make the right decisions.

-End-
-Title-
Enjoying Your Income
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Enjoying Your Income

     Money is important to all of us.  The less money you have,
the more important money may seen.  But, how you manage the money
you have is even more important.  Because living costs are rising
every year and incomes don't always keep up, you may need to
adjust your spending if you are to maintain a satisfactory
lifestyle and enjoy your income.  Planning your spending gives
you a chance to make some choices.

     Because spending is a family matter, all members of the
family need to be involved in planning how to spend family
dollars.  Young people learn about money management when they are
involved in making family decisions about money.

     Having a plan for spending your money gives you more
control.  You can plan ahead and spend without feeling guilty.
By making and following a spending plan, you are in control and
should have money from payday to payday.  To plan your spending,
estimate the amount of money your family has coming in during a
certain time -- a week, every two weeks, monthly or yearly.  Look
at this take-home pay as the true amount you have to spend.  Your
income will include salaries, interest, social security payments,
retirement checks or dividends.  If wages are seasonal, figure an
average of the usual amounts earned in a week or month.

     Next, you need to know exactly what and how your family is
spending.  You need a total of each big item so you can see where
you are putting your money.  You may need to look carefully at
your shopping habits.  With living costs rising, it is more
necessary than ever before to get the most from each dollar you
spend.

     To see if you're really getting satisfaction from your
spending, ask yourself this question, "If I had extra money each
month, what would I want to buy?"  A new plan for spending may
help you get the things you really want or need.  Each family
member probably wants at least part of any extra money, but the
family as a whole should decide on how to spend extra money.
-End-
-Title-
Family Records--What to Keep and For How Long
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
          Family Records--What to Keep and For How Long

     You need family records for several reasons:  to prove you
own property, as proof for income and estate taxes, for family
finance, and for measuring your family's financial progress.

     Records cost time and money when you get them, and even more
when you lose or misplace them.

     Every family has three kinds of records:  personal records,
financial records and property records.  Some should be kept
permanently.  Others may be kept for shorter periods.

     Records you should keep permanently are personal records
that pertain to adoption or divorce, education, employment,
military service, health and medical care, marriage, birth or
death, funeral or burial, and citizenship.  Keep your social
security number and an up-to-date copy of your will, too.

     Keep insurance records only as long as the policies are in
effect.

     Financial records you should keep permanently are:  receipts
of valuable purchases, important contracts and contents of your
safe deposit box.  Those to keep only as long as you need them
are:  credit card numbers, installment agreements, bank records,
and investment, budget and expenditure records.

     The Internal Revenue Service says you should keep records at
least four years for income tax purposes.  Some financial
advisors recommend keeping tax records for ten years.

     Property records you should keep permanently are:  deeds,
improvement records for real property, purchase receipts for
personal property, and an up-to-date inventory of personal and
household goods.

     As long as you own property, keep such things as titles,
receipts and guarantees for durable goods like automobiles and
equipment.  Keep sales records and guarantees for non-durable
goods like clothing and household items until you are certain the
items are okay.

     Remember - family records are important.  Store them in a
safe, convenient place where you can use them.
-End-
-Title-
Family Records--Storage
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                     Family Records--Storage

     You can save time and money by organizing and storing
personal and family papers in a safe place where you can get to
them quickly and easily.

     First, get all papers together and sort them according to
how often you will need them.  How often the paper will be used
and its value will help you decide the best place to store it.
You'll need three areas of storage:  some form of fireproof and
theftproof storage, home storage and items you should carry with
you.

     Fireproof and theftproof storage means a home safe or safe
deposit box.  Here you'll store papers that are hard or expensive
to replace.  These include adoption papers, auto title and bill
of sale, citizenship papers, debt or credit papers (especially
those pertaining to your home), death certificates, divorce
papers, income tax returns and receipts, inventory of important
family papers, inventory of personal and household goods,
investment certificates and government bonds, important cancelled
checks and payment receipts, and important contracts.  Other
items stored here will be marriage and birth certificates,
patents and copyrights, record of insurance policies, property
records including deeds, bills of sale, military service records
(including discharge and veteran claim number), social security
numbers and a copy of wills.

     For home storage, use a home business center, desk, file
cabinet, drawer, box or other safe and convenient place for
papers that are used often.

     These might include appliance records (including guarantees
and instructions), auto records, cancelled checks and bank
statements, care instructions for clothing and household
furnishings, education records, employment records, family health
records, financial account records (for farm and business),
instructions about funeral or burial plot, insurance policies,
inventory of household goods, list of credit card numbers and
lenders, and personal and family debt records.

     Items you should carry with you in your wallet or purse are
your auto insurance card, blood type record, card stating person
to be notified in case of an emergency, cards indicating
allergies to medicine or any special health problems, driver's
license, health and accident insurance cards, identification card
and organization membership cards.

     When your papers are sorted, store them in their proper
places.  Be sure to make a list of your papers and where they are
stored.
-End-
-Title-
Health Insurance--Buying
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                    Health Insurance--Buying

     Health insurance lets you budget in advance for unexpected
illnesses and the high costs of medical care.  Every member of a
family should be covered by medical insurance.

     If your employer offers a group medical insurance policy for
you and your family, sign up for this benefit.  It's a good buy
whether the employer pays all premium costs or if you must pay
part of them.  Group policies are usually the least expensive in
costs per person.

     If your employer doesn't provide health insurance, try to
join a group that does.  Cooperatives, trade unions and other
private organizations may have policies available.  If you leave
a job for any reason, arrange with your past employer to maintain
your coverage.  You will have to pay the group rate premium.

     It's hard to anticipate your needs for medical care, so buy
the broadest policy you can afford.  Be sure you're covered for
accidents and illnesses, also outpatient and hospital care.
Other desirable benefits for some individuals include
prescription drugs, diagnostic tests, dental care, private duty
nursing and skilled nursing home care.

     Choose a policy that pays on the basis of services
performed, or a stated percentage of the costs rather than a
specified amount for different services, or a flat amount per
day.  Although a specified amount for a particular procedure may
seem adequate when the policy starts, costs could have increased
greatly by the time you need it.

     Compare the costs of several policies offering the same
coverage.  Rates are not the same.  Look for the "loss ratio" of
a company before you buy.  This indicates how much in claims
policy holders have received from premiums they paid in.

     Read policies carefully for waiting periods, pre-existing
conditions and other exclusions.  Avoid restrictive policies.  Be
sure you understand all terms used.  Ask the insurance
representative to explain terms in simple language.  Make sure
you understand the terms for renewal and the conditions for
changing premium rates.

     Choose a policy from a company that is financially sound.
Best's Insurance Reports, available at most public libraries, can
give you this information.  Be careful about buying health
insurance from mail order insurance companies.

     Review your insurance coverage periodically to make sure it
still meets your needs.
-End-
-Title-
Homeowners Insurance:  How Much do You Need?
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
          Homeowners Insurance:  How Much do You Need?

     Statistics show that about 70 percent of the population
carries enough homeowners insurance, and about 30 percent of the
population carries too little.  Market values of houses have
increased dramatically in recent years, as have the costs of
construction.  If you don't have enough homeowners insurance you
may not be able to replace your home if it's destroyed by fire.

     There are four basic types of homeowners insurance:  HO1,
HO2, HO3 and HO4.  The HO1 is a stripped-down policy covering
fire, lightning, windstorms, hail, explosion, rot, civil
commotion, aircraft-vehicle theft, breakage of glass or safety
glazing materials, smoke, vandalism and malicious mischief.  As
you move up to HO2, you get coverage from falling objects, such
as a tree falling on your house.  HO3 adds such things as the
weight of ice, snow or sleet on your roof, as well as the
collapse of a building.  HO3 also covers frozen pipes that burst
and cause water damage.  If you have HO4, all perils coverage, it
covers everything except moving land and water, war, nuclear
hazards and the like.  If you are in an area which is subject to
high water, you should buy a special flood insurance policy from
the federal government.

     An all perils, or all risk, coverage usually costs about 40
percent more than the stripped down contract, but it does give
far greater protection.  These policies also offer protection if
something of yours is stolen while you are traveling.  Under most
homeowners policies, college students away from home and their
belongings are protected.

     Some policies let you cover the replacement cost of the
building and its contents.  Under terms of the replacement
policy, if you insure for value, the home or its contents will be
replaced as close to the original as possible.  Replacement
insurance costs only a little more a year.

     For full coverage of partial damage, you must insure for at
least 80 percent of the value of the house.  You won't receive
dollar for dollar coverage for even a partial loss unless you are
insured for at least 80 percent of the value.  Many people think
that if they buy $50,000 worth of insurance and have a $25,000
loss on a $75,000 house that they will receive the full $25,000.
This isn't true.  You have about 75 percent covered, and you will
get only 75 percent of the damage minus a certain amount for
depreciation of contents.

     Replacement cost coverage on the house alone doesn't cover
replacement cost for the contents.  You can buy replacement cost
insurance for the contents under a separate policy.  Under
standard policies, the replacement of an article is based on its
useful life.  This means that after a few years, the replacement
value may be zero.  Most contents insurance is equal to 40
percent to 50 percent of the building's insurance value.  So, if
you have $l00,000 worth of insurance on your home, you have about
$50,000 worth of coverage on its contents.

     Because extremely valuable items may not be covered up to
the full amount of their value in a standard policy, you may need
to add a separate silver and jewelry floater.

     Liability is another consideration.  Most standard contracts
offer $25,000 liability.  In today's economy, that isn't much.
It's generally recommended that at least $100,000 worth of
liability be carried.  There's a small extra charge.  And, for
just a little bit more, you can get $300,000.

     Renters and condominium policies are available, too.
Renters insurance covers only the contents, not the building.
Condominium owners insurance covers everything inside the four
walls of the apartment.  The structure itself is usually covered
under a master insurance contract bought by the condominium
association.

     Evaluate your homeowners insurance every three years and, if
possible, add an inflation endorsement rider to your standard
policy.  This way, the cost of homeownership is added to your
policy each year when the premium is due, and you can be sure
you'll have enough coverage if your home is damaged and must be
replaced.
-End-
-Title-
How to Buy Appliances
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      How to Buy Appliances

     Many brands and kinds of major and small appliances are on
the market today.  Before you make a purchase, ask yourself if
you really need the appliance.  Some are bought because of the
novelty they provide as much as for the functions they perform.
Sometimes a new appliance doesn't really save time or energy
because the setting up and cleaning up take so much time.

     Some features on appliances save time and energy, and some
add convenience but use more energy.  Sometimes extra features
are used seldom once the novelty wears off, so you might not want
to pay extra for these features.  Often the basic appliance unit
is the same for several brands, but the price increases as the
number of added features increases.  This is especially true on
major appliances.  If you want to save money, don't buy more
features than you really need.

     Before you buy, consider where the appliance will be stored
and where it will be used.  Sometimes storage creates a problem
that outweighs benefits.  Be sure the place where you'll use it
is wired adequately and that there's an outlet available.  Don't
plan to use extension cords unless it's absolutely necessary
because they reduce efficiency and may be dangerous.

     Once you've decided you really need the appliance and that
you have room for it, another important decision is cost.  Be
sure to consider the original price tag plus any installation
costs as well as operating and maintenance costs.  High operating
costs may make energy-efficient models worth the initial higher
price.  For example, some new models of refrigerators and
freezers are 50 percent more energy efficient than models 10
years old.  Check the yellow and black Energy Guide Levels on
most major appliances for energy information.

     If you plan to spread out payments, check the cost of
credit.  If you can anticipate buying an appliance, try to save a
little each month so you can pay cash and avoid the cost of
installment buying.  You may even get a lower price if you pay
cash.  Anticipating your purchase will also give you time to get
the information you need to buy wisely.  If you know you'll be
buying a major appliance, start reading advertisements, consumer
magazines and buying guides available at your local library.  Ask
friends and relatives about the models they have and which
features they use or don't use.

     For large appliances, in particular, service may be
important.  If you are gone during the day, you'll need a
reliable service person who makes calls after hours or on
weekends.

     Some appliances have a warranty or guarantee, but the terms
vary.  Be sure to take time to read the written guarantee and
don't just take the word of the salesman.  When you buy, fill out
and keep warranty cards.  Look for safety symbols and seals of
approval.  The UL (Underwriters Laboratory) is probably the best
known safety symbol.  Another symbol, a blue star emblem, may be
found on gas appliances.  It means that the design and
construction meet safety and performance standards of the
American Gas Association.

     Some magazines and other groups have seals of approval, too,
but they vary in their worth to the consumer.  Don't assume that
a seal assures quality.  For the most part, appliances on the
market do what they are designed to do.  Your choice of brand and
price will depend on personal preference and individual need
rather than actual differences in function and quality.
-End-
-Title-
Ordering Merchandise by Mail
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Ordering Merchandise by Mail

     Most reputable mail order firms are eager to give you good
service because they appreciate your business and want you to
order from them again.  But, aside from their willingness to
satisfy, mail order firms who use the U. S. Postal Service are
regulated by the U. S. Postal Code.  One of the regulations under
which mail order houses operate is the so-called 30-day rule.

     Here's how the 30-day rule affects you.  If the seller knows
he can't fill an order within 30 days, he must say so in his
advertisements.  If he's unable to fill the order within 30 days,
he must notify you of your right to a refund.

     If you want a refund, you must notify the seller.  But, if
the seller notifies you that he can't fill the order within 30
days and you don't respond, he then has 60 days to fill the
order.  If 60 days pass and the seller still hasn't filled the
order, he must give you the choice of getting a full refund or
waiting longer.

     If you don't respond when you're given this choice, the
seller is required to refund your money.  You can give the seller
any number of 30-day extensions, but once the third extension is
granted, you may ask for a refund at any time.

     This rule doesn't apply to services like mail order photo
finishing, magazine subscriptions, plants, seeds, orders mailed
"Collect on Delivery," and credit orders where the buyer's
account isn't charged before shipment.

     If you have trouble with a mail order firm, try to work out
the problem with the firm.  If you fail to work it out to your
satisfaction, notify the U. S. Postal Service.  The Federal Trade
Commission can help you if it is an item sold across state lines.


-End-
-Title-
Planned Spending Buys More
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                   Planned Spending Buys More

     Planned spending helps you get more for your money.  Since
most of us have more needs than we have money, a spending plan
can help us see each purchase in relation to all the other ways
we could spend our money now and in the future.  Planned spending
can help you take advantage of sales, and it can help reduce
credit and installment costs.

     Planned spending means figuring out where you stand right
now.  First, make a list of your income, including your paycheck,
social security or pension.  Now look at your spendable income
after taxes, your take-home pay.  This is the part you can spend
or save.

     Next, list your fixed expenses:  mortgage, insurance,
installment payments, income taxes, property taxes and any other
expenses that are due once a month or once a year.  Add these up
and divide the total of your fixed expenses by the number of
paychecks you receive.  Then you'll know how much to set aside
each pay period.

     For example, if you get money each month, divide the total
by 12.  If you are paid weekly, divide by 52.  This is the amount
you'll have to set aside each pay period to meet your fixed
expenses.  Subtract this amount from the amount of money you have
coming in.  The money left is the money you can make decisions
about.  It is the money you have to spend over the pay period on
food, transportation, utilities and other flexible expenses.  Try
to divide the money among the items you generally spend money on.
Try to plan so these expenses don't take everything that's left.

      Set aside a few dollars each pay period for things you'd
like to have.  List the things you want now and those you want in
the future.  Find out how much each will cost and think about how
you will save.  Include all family members in the discussion.

     You and your family probably have some ideas about what you
want now and in the future.  You may want clothes, a piece of
furniture or a television set in the near future.  Long-range
goals may include education for the children, a home or a family
trip.  It helps if you write your goals on paper.  List first
those things you want most.  Decide how many of the items you
want enough to set aside an amount each month in order to get
them.  Add what these items cost and again divide the total by
the number of paychecks you receive.  The answer is the amount
you'll need to set aside each month.  Subtract this from your
paycheck also.  Make sure the amount adds up to no more than you
have left to spend.  This is your financial plan.

     There isn't an ideal way to plan spending for everyone.
Each person or family is unique, with different income, needs and
goals.  Also, spending plans must be flexible enough to adjust to
changes which may occur in your life and in the economy.  But
having a plan helps you to ask before you spend, "Is this the
best use of my money?"
-End-
-Title-
Safe Debt Load
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                         Safe Debt Load

     Your debt load is the amount of your take-home pay that goes
to pay off creditors each month after you pay your rent or
mortgage payment.  Ten percent of your take-home pay is
considered a comfortable debt load.  Fifteen percent is thought
to be manageable, but anything approaching 20 percent is a sign
you're getting deep in debt.

     Another rule of thumb for deciding if you're overextended is
to figure your income and, excepting rent or mortgage, determine
if you can pay off your other borrowing comfortably in one year.
If so, you are probably carrying a safe debt load.

     It's easy to know if your debt load is too heavy.  Here are
some signs you should look for.  You find it harder each month to
make ends meet.  Another sign is that you rely on overtime pay or
moonlighting to pay your bills.  Another sign of too much credit
is when you pay only the minimum on your charge accounts and
sometimes juggle payments, stalling one creditor to pay another.
One other sign is when you struggle to save even small amounts
and don't have enough money saved to get you through emergencies
such as a cut in pay or repairs on appliances or cars.

     Credit can be a real asset or a detriment.  How you use
credit determines which it will be.  The following credit
guidelines can help you manage your money.

     Always decide how you will pay for an item before you buy
it.  Don't use credit if it means you will still be paying for
the item long after it is used up or gone.  Remember:  credit
costs money.  Ask yourself if you would buy the item if you had
to pay cash for it instead of putting it on credit.

     Always use comparison shopping and get the best buy for your
money.  Don't be a soft touch for sales people.  Credit is easily
available, and businesses urge people to use credit because
people who use credit may spend more.

     Buy only if you have a real need for the item.  Try to use
credit only for items that will increase in value after you pay
for them.  Credit always costs more than paying cash, even in
stores that offer no-interest accounts, because prices may be
slightly higher.  Credit is more expensive now than it used to
be, so shop carefully and use credit only when necessary.

     Even if you're getting along fine now, don't take on
additional debts without calculating your ability to repay them.
If your mortgage or rent payment takes more than 25 percent of
your pay, a debt load of 20 percent is probably too much.
-End-
-Title-
Shopping for Credit
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                       Shopping for Credit

     When you shop for credit, look for the least expensive plan
you can get.  Select one you can pay off in a reasonable length
of time without straining the family budget too much.

     To compare costs for credit, first look at the A-P-R.  This
is the annual percentage rate or the cost, in dollars, of $100 if
you borrow it for one year.  Federal law requires that all credit
contracts include the term "Annual Percentage Rate" in large
print.  This number, a percentage, must be filled in on the
contract before you sign it.  The term A-P-R must be used in any
public advertising of credit terms.  It can be as low as 12 or 14
percent of what you borrow or as high as 36 percent or more.

     Another term required by law to be in large print on
installment loan contracts is the "Total Finance Charge."  This
is the total amount, in dollars, you can expect to pay over the
length of the credit contract.  It might include the cost of
checking your credit record and credit insurance.

     Know what other items you are expected to pay for besides
the amount borrowed and the interest.  Credit life insurance is
not required by law.

     Because the amount of interest you pay for a loan depends on
the length of time you use that credit, you'll save money by
paying off the loan as soon as you can.  Look for a plan that
lets you pay off the loan as soon as you can, but doesn't
penalize you for paying off early.

     When you set up an installment plan, be realistic about the
amount you can pay each period.  Don't make payments so large
that you create financial pressure on the family budget.

     If you use a credit card, the annual percentage rate will be
applied to your monthly balance for purchases and cash borrowed
with the card.

     Interest will be less if the monthly interest rate is
charged on the balance after current payments are deducted.  Some
creditors charge interest on your balance before current payments
are made, and others charge on the average daily balance owed.
If your plan charges on the average daily balance, you will pay
less interest if you make payments as soon as you can and keep
the daily balance as low as possible.
-End-
-Title-
Teaching Children to Use Money
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                 Teaching Children to Use Money

     Today everyone spends more money to live and families depend
on money more than ever before.  Because family finances are
becoming more and more complicated, even young children should
learn something about money management.

     Regardless of your child's age, you are the primary teacher
about money matters.  Your attitude will influence the attitudes
of your children.  Whatever significance money has to you as a
parent, whether it's anxiety or pleasure, your children will pick
up on it.  Conveying healthy attitudes about money requires an
example of using money without heavy emotional attachments.
Unfortunately, money is used in families as a symbol of love,
power or approval.

     Teaching money management to children can be fun. The
experience can benefit the relationship between parent and child,
too.  If you gear your money management lessons to the child's
needs, interests, abilities and level of understanding, you'll be
successful in teaching money concepts.  Children can learn new
concepts about money and spending if they're taught by the use of
examples, reintroduced on different occasions and in different
situations, and if they're allowed to practice the concepts.

     Here are some of the most important basic concepts of money
and its use:

     We must learn to spend before we can learn to save.  Let
your child pay for items in the store.

     Savings is just deferred spending.  We usually save for a
specific purpose or item.  Let your child learn to save for
something he or she really wants, something that doesn't require
too long a savings time.

     Money resources are nearly always limited.  Teach your child
how to choose with his/her limited funds from among all the many
things he or she wants.

     Most family economists and child development experts believe
that allowances geared to the age and needs of a child can help
him or her learn to make decisions and how to manage money at an
early age.  The allowance should cover fixed expenses such as
school lunches and varible expenses such as toys or extra food
items.


-End-
-Title-
Women and Credit
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                        Women and Credit

     Almost every American has at least one credit card.  Women
can now get credit in their own names simply by deciding on a
purchase and asking for credit.

     The law says that creditors may not discriminate against
anyone because of sex or marital status.  This means that you
can't be denied a loan because you are a woman, single or
married.

     One helpful step in establishing credit is to open a savings
or checking account in your own name.  This won't give you
credit, but creditors often check accounts to see if you have
money and know how to manage it.

     Since passage of the Equal Credit Opportunity Act, a woman
who qualifies for credit now has the legal right to put the
account in her name.  Married women may use their maiden names if
they wish.  All new credit accounts used jointly by husbands and
wives must be filed by creditors and credit bureaus in the names
of both spouses.

     A married woman with her own income may want to apply for
separate accounts for which she alone will be responsible.  This
will show creditors that she has been granted credit only on her
own record of income and prompt payments.

     Even if you are married, you need to make sure that your
local credit bureau has credit history information in a separate
file under your name.  If you move, you may want to open an
individual account based only on your credit history.

     When using credit, resist the temptation to overbuy.  Don't
get in debt beyond your ability to repay.  Remember how much
money you have and how much credit you can afford.  Use your
credit wisely.

     Pay your credit accounts when they are due, if at all
possible.  This builds your credit reputation.  If unexpected
expenses or illness delays your payment, contact the creditor
promptly and discuss the situation.  In most cases, he will
extend payment dates or adjust monthly installments to help you.
-End-
-Title-
Supermarket Scanners
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                      Supermarket Scanners

     Another marvel of computer technology has found its way into
our lives through supermarkets.  It's the Universal Product Code
(or UPC) scanning system, and it's designed to make shopping
quicker, easier and more pleasant.

     Since the scanning system was introduced in 1974, it has
grown rapidly and is now in use in about one-fourth of the
supermarkets.  The UPC consists of an in-store computer linked to
a laser scanner and an electronic cash register.

     The key to scanning is the universal products code (UPC),
which is a bar code found on most items -- in fact, everything
from magazines to food.  The code on each item is passed over a
glass-covered slot in the checkout counter where a laser scanner
reads the code and transmits the information to an in-store
computer.  The price previously entered into the computer for
that item then flashes on the visual display unit of the cash
register and is, at the same time, printed on the receipt tape.

     The first five numbers of the code designate the
manufacturer, and the next five numbers tell what the specific
product is.  The retailer  may also make UPC labels for products
not coded by the manufacturer.  You benefit from the scanners
because you get speedier checkouts and more detailed receipts
which state not only the price of each item bought but also the
brand name and size.  You can use these receipts to make long-
term or short-term price comparisons.

     The receipts also enable you to compare prices at different
stores and prices of different sizes and brands.  This is
important, because about one-fourth of the money spent at grocery
stores is spent on items that aren't even food.  These scanner
receipts can help you see exactly how much you spend on
unnecessary items as well as what you spend on products for
household operation.

     Receipts can also help you determine if a balanced diet is
being purchased for your family.  You can compare the information
on your tape with U. S. Department of Agriculture food plans and
food expenditure calculations for families similar in size and
age to yours.

     These scanners also lessen the likelihood of human error and
may result in lower prices when retailers pass cost savings on to
consumers.  The retailer benefits by increased labor
productivity, reduced labor costs, more accurate inventory
control, better tracking of customer and product flow, and fewer
cashier errors.

     More and more supermarkets will add scanners, so it's
important that you to learn to use the information you receive on
the tapes from these scanners.
-End-
-Title-
Controlling Your Finances While Unemployed
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
           Controlling Your Finances While Unemployed

     Losing a job is frightening, but you can still control your
financial affairs if you plan carefully and use money-stretching
tips while you're looking for a job.

     The first crisis of unemployment is a financial one.  There
will still be bills to pay.  Find out immediately about any
benefits you may be eligible for, such as state unemployment or
food stamps.  If you're not able to pay your bills, tell your
creditors about your situation.  Most are willing to extend
payments or help you work out a schedule to pay your debts.
Honesty is the best policy.

     If you feel overwhelmed by your financial situation, talk to
your banker or go to a nonprofit credit counseling agency for
help.  It's often harder to cope with the stress of being
unemployed than it is to make ends meet, especially if yours is a
two-income household.  If you're out of work for a long time, you
may have feelings of self-doubt to deal with.

     Talk to your family about your financial situation and
involve them in decisions about spending.  One of the most
difficult things about being unemployed is realizing that you may
have to lower your standard of living.  Don't pretend that
nothing has happened.

     See how much your family owes by adding what you own and
subtracting what you owe.  This is your net worth.  You may have
assets that can be converted to cash.  To balance your income and
outgo, you need to know how much money you have coming in and how
it is spent.  Use your check stubs and receipts to estimate what
you spend on flexible expenses.  Evaluate these expenditures and
make any necessary changes.

     Anticipate upcoming big bills such as insurance payments and
plan ways to pay for them.  Be sure your family is covered by
adequate life and health insurance while you aren't working.
Check with your past employer about continuing your health
insurance.  In most cases, you have the right to continue your
coverage for up to 18 months if you agree to pay the group rate
premium.

     Use your savings or emergency funds sparingly.  Try not to
borrow money while you're unemployed.  It always costs money to
borrow.  Let your financial institution advise you about
withdrawing any large sums from savings or about taking out a
loan.  They may be able to help you save money or keep you from
losing all the interest from your savings.
-End-
-Title-
Flood Insurance
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                         Flood Insurance

     If you're a homeowner in an area that is subject to
flooding, you may need flood insurance.  Many homeowners discover
too late that ordinary homeowners insurance does not cover damage
from rising waters.

     Water damage from flooding, rising surface waters, waves,
sewers or drains, and from water seeping from below ground are
specifically excluded from homeowner policy coverage.

     To cover rising water damage, properties must be covered by
a special federal flood insurance program policy.  You can get
this type of coverage through any property and casualty agent or
broker licensed to do business.  Homeowners in many communities
are eligible to purchase flood insurance.  Your local agent can
tell you if your community is participating in this flood
program.

     To determine your individual need for flood insurance,
contact your building permit officer who will be able to tell you
if your property lies in a flood prone area.  If you don't know
the name of your building permit officer,  the mayor or local
police jury can help you find it.

     If you're in a flood prone area, you should seriously
consider purchasing flood insurance.  Insurance rates are based
on the likelihood of your property being affected by flooding.
The insurance covers both the property and its contents up to the
limits of the policy that is purchased.

     Also, if you're considering the purchase of any property, be
sure to investigate the flood proneness of the area where the
property is located.
-End-
-Title-
Conserving Water In The Home
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                  Conserving Water In The Home

     Conserving water in your home is easy.  Simply check for
leaks, install water-saving devices and develop some water
management habits.

     You may not realize it, but leakage accounts for about five
to ten percent of all residential water consumption, and is
caused mainly by worn-out faucet washers and faulty toilet tank
valves.

     A steady drip of a leaking faucet can waste as much as 20
gallons per day.  A more serious type of leak can occur in toilet
tanks, wasting as much as 200 gallons of water a day.  Since the
leaking water runs from the tank into the bowl, you can't see it
or hear it.  You can check for a toilet leak by removing the tank
cover and placing a few drops of food coloring in the tank,
preferably when the toilet will be unused for several hours.  If
the food coloring seeps into the bowl, your toilet has a leak.

     Correcting these leaks is an easy and inexpensive way to
reduce water consumption.

     The next step you can take is to buy water-saving devices,
which are usually inexpensive and easy to install.

     Almost half of the water used in your home is used for waste
disposal through the toilet.  Devices are available to reduce the
amount of water used to flush the toilet.

     You can buy toilet tank volume reducers, improved float
assemblies that allow water level adjustments and signal you when
there is a leak, or dual flush mechanisms which allow you to
select a small or large flush.

     These water-saving devices do not work equally well in all
types of toilets.  Some are more effective than others.  Do not
use a device that requires you to flush twice.  It could actually
increase your water consumption.

     You may have heard that placing bricks in your toilet tank
will reduce the amount of water in the tank.  However, bricks are
not recommended because they can deteriorate in the water and
bricks can break parts of the toilet if you drop them.

     An alternative to bricks is plastic bottles.  You can put
one or more clean plastic one-quart bottles filled with water and
a small stone or sand in your tank.  By using bottles, you can
avoid bending the float arm down which lowers the water level.
Lowering the water level reduces the force of the flush,
resulting in unsatisfactory cleansing of the bowl.

     If you're installing a new toilet, buy one that uses less
water than the five to seven gallons a conventional toilet uses.

     You can buy an aerator to reduce the flow of water through
your faucet. A thermostat mixing valve or a shutoff valve near
the shower head allows you to turn off the water while lathering
without disturbing the temperature adjustment of the shower
controls.

     With a shower head flow restriction or controller, you can
reduce by half the amount of water used per minute.  A
restriction reduces the flow of water by creating smaller
openings in the shower head.  Constant rate devices maintain a
steady flow rate regardless of changes in the water pressure.

     Water can also be conserved by using dishwashers only when
they're full and by buying clothes washers with variable water
level settings.

     By changing a few habits, you can conserve even more.  For
example, turn off the water while you're brushing your teeth or
shaving, take a shower instead of a bath, and water your lawn
early in the morning.
-End-
-Title-
Water Filters
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                          Water Filters

     Americans are becoming increasingly concerned with the
quality of water.  Many people have turned to activated-carbon
water filters and purifiers to upgrade drinking water, rather
than buying bottled water.

     Activated-carbon filters can effectively remove many
objectionable tastes and odors.  They can also help clear
sediments from tap water and remove organic chemicals such as
pesticides and chloroform, a common contaminant which is a
suspected carcinogen.

     The under-sink filters are the larger and generally more
effective, yet more expensive type.  They do a good job of
removing chlorine, a major source of bad taste in water.

     The units which use granular carbon, as opposed to powder-
in-pad, do a better job of permanently removing chloroform.  The
powdered carbon types have been known to re-deposit previously
absorbed chloroform back into the water after a certain point of
use.

     Units with hard plastic sides force water to travel the
length of the filter, insuring longer contact with the filter.
The longer the contact with the filter, the more effective the
filtration.

     Some units also slow down the water flow rate to improve
filtration and extend the life of the filter cartridge.  These
come with a separate faucet and tubing to connect to your cold
water supply line.

     Faucet or sink-mounted filters are generally smaller, easier
to install, and cheaper than the under-sink variety.  But they
generally have a lower useful flow rate than most of the under-
sink units and their filter lifetime is shorter.

     You can use pour-through portable filters when you're
traveling, as long as the water you start with is suitable for
drinking.  Both the electric models and those which work like a
drip coffee maker can be as effective as faucet mounted filters.

     If you're only concerned with suspended sediment in your
water, you need a fiber filter, rather than a carbon filter
which clogs quickly.

     Most manufacturers of home-use filters claim only that their
products improve the taste and odor of water.  A few claim their
products will remove toxic chemicals.  But one thing a water
filter will not remove is bacteria.  That's a job for a water
purifier.  In fact, there is some concern that wet carbon in
filters can make a good breeding ground for bacteria,
particularly when the filter is not used for a while and after it
has treated a large quantity of water.

     In addition, activated carbon filters won't remedy hard
water -- water-softening devices are needed for this.  The
filters will remove rust particles, but they have little effect
on dissolved metals and hydrogen sulfide.  They won't remove
chloride, fluoride or nitrate either.  For these, a reverse
osmosis unit or ion exchange device is needed.

     Whatever choice you make, how you use and maintain your
filter is essential to its good performance and safety.

     You should flush out the filter before the first use of the
day.  Open the faucet wide and let the water run at least 30
seconds for an under-sink model and at least 10 seconds for a
sink-mounted filter.  When you install a new cartridge, flush for
several minutes to remove fine carbon particles.

     You should change filters regularly.  A heavily used filter
is more likely to contain high bacterial levels and to discharge
organic chemicals previously trapped.  An exhausted filter is
useless.

     Don't filter hot water.  A filter on the faucet that passes
hot water will not remove contaminants very well and hot water
may liberate chemicals previously trapped.

     Use the slowest flow rate you can tolerate.  The longer the
water is in contact with the filter, the more impurities the
carbon can attract and the cleaner the water will be.

     After you install a new cartridge, remember to circle the
date on your calendar so you will know when to replace it.
-End-
-Title-
Water Hardness
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                         Water Hardness

     Hardness in water could be a problem for your laundry.  The
hardness minerals interfere with the cleaning action of soaps and
detergents.  It's harder to achieve good laundry results with
water that contains the calcium or magnesium ions that contribute
to water hardness.  Soils on fabrics can also add to the hardness
of your wash water.

     If you have problems with water hardness when washing, add
more detergent.  Some of the detergent will be used to tie up the
hardness ions that soften the water before the remaining
detergent can do the cleaning.

     When non-phosphate detergents containing carbonate builders
tie up the hardness ions, a white precipitate (calcium and
magnesium carbonate) forms and may give clothes white streaks.
It may also build up in the washer.

     If you use soap in hard water, soap curd may form, leaving
streaks and deposits or grease balls on your clothes.  You can
remove soap curd by soaking fabrics in a solution of warm water
and a packaged non-precipitating water softener or conditioner.
Just follow the package directions for proper usage.

     Synthetic detergents generally work best when laundering in
hard water.  Hard water can also be softened mechanically, after
which good results can be achieved with most laundry products.
-End-
-Title-
Water Softeners
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                         Water Softeners

     You can soften water in your home automatically with cation
exchange, mechanical water softeners, or with packaged water
softeners.

     If you use the cation exchange softener, the water is soft
when it comes from the tap -- no measuring of a packaged softener
is required -- and both the wash and rinse water are soft.  In
addition, the alkalinity of the water is not increased as it
would be with a packaged softener.  Water that has been softened
by the cation exchange still contains dissolved minerals, but
there is no calcium or magnesium present.

     Mechanical water softeners require an initial investment and
small operating cost.  In many areas it is possible to rent
equipment for a small monthly charge, thus avoiding the initial
investment.  Long-term savings, resulting from reduced use of
cleaning supplies and from longer life of fabrics and water-using
equipment, may offset the cost of buying or renting water
softening equipment.

     Cation exchange water softeners must be regenerated
periodically to provide a continuous supply of soft water.  This
may be done manually or with partially automatic or fully
automatic equipment.  The fully automatic regeneration requires
no attention from the owner -- other than keeping the storage
tank which is exchanged periodically by the supplier.

     If you're going to use a packaged water softener, you can
choose from two types -- precipitating and non-precipitating.
The precipitating softeners remove hardness by forming a
precipitate, an undissolved solid.  They are cheap, but not very
effective.  Water softened with precipitation softeners is
alkaline and cloudy.  The precipitate becomes trapped in laundry
items, making them harsh and stiff.

     Non-precipitating packaged softeners control hardness by
forming a stable soluble compound.  Most softeners of this type
can re-dissolve soap curd and grease balls that have previously
formed.

     In order to use packaged softeners effectively, the hardness
and quantity of water used should be known so that the proper
amount of softener can be measured and added to the water.  You
should follow the package directions to find out the quantity.

     Since packaged softeners can not soften water before it
comes from the tap, the softener must be added each time water is
used.  For example, it should be added to both the wash cycle and
rinse cycle when washing clothes.
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-Title-
Laundry - Saving Energy
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Virginia, Va
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Southern, S
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                     Laundry - Saving Energy

     A good way to conserve energy when using an automatic washer
is to select a cold water rinse.  Rinsing in cold water is
adequate for all types of wash cycles.

     When you're laundering washable woolens and lightly soiled
items, select a cold water wash.  Since cold water does not clean
clothes as well as hot or warm water, it may be necessary to
pretreat stained or soiled areas of your clothes when using cold
water.

     Besides washing in cold water, there are other steps you can
follow to help conserve energy.

     Adjust the water level to the size of your wash load, but do
not overload the washer in an effort to save water.  Clothes will
look better if you use a lower water level for a small load of
garments, similar in color and fabric type.  Don't mix clothes of
different colors to make a full load.  If you mix colors, the
dyes may transfer from one color to the other.

     Save energy by keeping the lint filter clean on the dryer.
A dirty lint filter will prevent airflow and slow the drying
process.

     Do not overload or underload your dryer.  An average size
load of like weight items dries most efficiently.  Also, avoid
over drying clothes.  This wastes energy and may cause items to
shrink and wrinkle.

     When clothes are dry, remove them as soon as possible.  If
they rest in the dryer after the tumbling stops they will become
wrinkled.  On a clear day, dry clothes outside and let nature
help you save energy.

     When buying new laundry equipment, look for energy-efficient
models.
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-Title-
What is 4-H
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Virginia, Va
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Southern, S
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                           What is 4-H

     Four-H is a national organization for youth with groups in
most counties and cities.  For a long time, 4-H appealed mostly
to young people in rural areas who worked on farm-related
projects.

     But, over the years, 4-H has changed.  More projects have
been added to include such subjects as photography, dog care, pet
care, bicycling, public speaking, automotive, and many others.
So, no matter where you live, you're likely to find something of
interest in 4-H.

     Four-H is open to anyone between the ages of 9 and 19 and
there are a number of ways you can join--school clubs, community
clubs, special interest groups, school enrichment groups, project
clubs, or you can even be a member at large.

     As a 4-H member, you learn to keep written records and make
presentations on your projects.  You also have the opportunity to
compete in contests on the local, state, and national levels.
Perhaps best of all, you meet people who have interests similar
to yours.

     Four-H is sponsored by the Cooperative Extension Service.
To learn more about 4-H, contact the local office of the
Cooperative Extension Service.  The number is generally found in
the county or city government listings in your area.
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-Title-
Virginia Extension Homemakers Council
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Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
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              Virginia Extension Homemakers Council

     If you're interested in learning and sharing new ideas and
information that will not only improve the quality of your life,
but that of your family and community as well, you should
consider becoming a member of the Virginia Extension Homemakers
Council (VEHC).

     The VEHC is a statewide voluntary, non-profit adult
education organization of 10,000 members.  Its purpose is to help
individuals cope with problems in an ever changing society.
Members serve as volunteers, extending information through
educational programs to others.  Programs are based on needs.
Statewide, the organization is emphasizing programs on needs
related to health, food, and nutrition; resource management;
family community leadership; and, citizenship.  However, the
flexibility also exists for local needs to be identified and
programs planned to address them with the assistance of an
Extension home economist.

     The benefits of being an Extension Homemaker are two-fold.
First of all, you gain knowledge and skills that can be applied
in your own life and, secondly, you become a part of a
coordinated volunteer effort that extends the knowledge and
skills to others.

     While the membership in the VEHC is predominantly women,
membership is open to everyone, regardless of race, color,
religion, sex, age, national origin, handicap, or political
affiliation.

     How much does it cost?  Very little.  The major cost to you
will be the time and energy devoted to learning and extending the
educational information.  Dues, which are minimal, help to
support local, area, regional, state, and national efforts.

     To learn more about the Virginia Extension Homemakers
Council, contact the local office of the Virginia Cooperative
Extension Service.  The number is generally found in the county
or city government listings in your area.

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-Title-
Reclaiming Old Shrubs and Small Trees
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Virginia, Va
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Southern, S
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              Reclaiming Old Shrubs and Small Trees

     That overgrown shrub that dominates your landscape or blocks
your view can be turned into a useful and attractive small tree.
Often, old, lack-luster shrubs can be reclaimed by selective
pruning.  Such plants include ligustrum, camellias, sasanquas,
Burford hollies, pittosporums, photinias and Japanese yew.

     To create this transformation, you need only a small pruning
saw, loppers, a pair of hand shears and a bit of patience and
skill.

     First, determine whether the plant is worthy of such
treatment...that is...be sure you like it where it is.  A large
shrub near a patio would be more useful as a small shade tree,
for instance.  A big shrub may be completely shading an important
part of your house...but with wise pruning you can turn it into a
much looser, more open form that you can see through.

     After you've decided that the plant is worth keeping and
after you've decided it's in the right place, it's time to go to
work on it.

     First, remove all the dead wood and the small, non-essential
branches from the center of the plant.  Gradually reduce the
center until it's acceptable.  In many cases this will mean
cutting out several large trunks.  Never shear the plant across
the top...always remove branches and trunks from within the plant
so that you open it up without destroying the natural form of the
plant.

     It may be a good idea to make a few cuts, then step back and
look at the results.  It may even be necessary to do the pruning
over several days so you'll have time to evaluate your work.
Paint all the cuts that are more than one and a half inches with
a tree surgery material.

     After the plant has been reclaimed to your satisfaction,
then study the plant bed it's in to determine whether you need a
ground cover or other plantings.
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
RESEARCH ABSTRACTS - APRIL 1988                                                 
                                                                                
The following research abstracts were prepared by Ellen M. Silva,               
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension                        
Specialist.  They are to assist agents in keeping up to date on                 
recent research in consumer horticulture.  Copies of the original               
articles including lists of varieties and scientific names of                   
plants used in the studies are available from the Consumer                      
Horticulture office.  Send requests on computer to PDRELF.                      
                                                                                
Effects of Turfgrass on the Establishment                                       
     of Woody Plants                           120 lines                        
Effects of Sludge, Bed, and Genotype on                                         
     Carrot and Cucumber Flavor                 59 lines                        
Performance of Four Tomato Cultivars                                            
     Intercropped with Snap Beans               67 lines                        
Effect of Irrigation Level on Yield of Pinto                                    
     Dry Beans and Tenderness after Cooking     66 lines                        
Evaluation of Row Covers for Enhancing Yield                                    
     and Controlling Insects on Summer Squash   33 lines                        
*************************                                                       
                                                                                
EFFECTS OF TURFGRASS ON THE ESTABLISHMENT OF WOODY PLANTS                       
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture                                              
                                                                                
Most research on competition between woody plants and grasses has               
concentrated on the effects of native prairie grasses on trees                  
and shrubs and the effects of cover crops in orchards.  Little                  
work has been done on the possible competition between turf-                    
grasses and woody ornamentals.  Many gardeners allow turf to grow               
around their specimen plants, sometimes applying additional                     
fertilizer or water to the ornamentals in hopes of making up for                
any competition from the turf.  Information on the benefits or                  
drawbacks of these practices may help the homeowner grow better                 
plants.                                                                         
                                                                                
Conclusions                                                                     
                                                                                
Turfgrass grown around dogwood or forsythia inhibits the growth                 
of these plants.                                                                
                                                                                
Supplementary top dressings of fertilizer over turf does not                    
improve the growth of dogwood or forsythia grown in competition                 
with turfgrass.                                                                 
                                                                                
Subsurface fertilizing can improve the growth of dogwood or                     
forsythia grown in competition with turfgrass, but does not                     
completely overcome the negative effects of competition.                        
                                                                                
Competition for moisture does not appear to be a factor in the                  
inhibition of dogwood or forsythia growth by turfgrass.                         
                                                                                
The suppression of woody plant growth by turfgrasses may involve                
chemical inhibition as well as direct competition for nitrogen.                 
                                                                                
Abstract                                                                        
                                                                                
Dogwood and forsythia plants were grown under the following                     
conditions: turf-free; turf-free for 0.7 sq. m. around plant;                   
turf-free for 0.3 sq. m. around plant; surrounded by turf cut at                
1.6 inches; turf cut at 4 inches; turf plus surface fertilizer;                 
turf plus surface fertilizer and surface irrigation; turf plus                  
subsurface fertilizer; and turf plus subsurface fertilizer and                  
subsurface irrigation.  Subsurface fertilizer alone was provided                
by controlled release fertilizer packets placed in the planting                 
hole and subsurface fertilizer plus subsurface irrigation were                  
combined in a root zone injection of water soluble fertilizer.                  
The plants were evaluated for growth, visual appearance, and                    
nitrogen uptake at the end of each of two growing seasons.                      
                                                                                
Trunk growth of dogwood was significantly greater in the 0.7                    
sq.m. turf-free spaces and the turf-free plots than in other                    
treatments for both years.  In the second year of the study,                    
there also was a significant increase in trunk diameter for the                 
plot with turf plus subsurface irrigation and fertilizing.                      
Dogwood terminal internode growth was limited and variable the                  
first year.  The second year, all of the turf-free treatments and               
the subsurface fertilizer treatment showed significantly longer                 
internode growth than the turf plot.  The subsurface irrigation                 
plus subsurface fertilizer treatment did not show a similar                     
effect.  This may be explained by the lower amounts of fertilizer               
applied the first year of the study for this treatment as                       
compared to the subsurface fertilizer alone treatment.  Previous                
studies indicate that top growth may be dependent on the condi-                 
tions of the previous year.  The low amount of fertilizer                       
received by the subsurface fertilizer plus subsurface irrigation                
treatment may have been insufficient to increase the top growth                 
significantly during the following year.                                        
                                                                                
The growth response of forsythia to the various treatments was                  
variable during the first season.  During the second season,                    
forsythia in turf-free plots showed significantly more growth.                  
Both treatments which included subsurface fertilization signi-                  
ficantly increased the number of new shoots over the check (turf)               
treatment.  The dry weight of shoots grown in the turf-free                     
treatment was significantly greater than for any other treatment,               
and was nine times that of the plants grown with full turf cover.               
Subsurface irrigation and fertilization resulted in significantly               
greater growth than the remaining treatments.                                   
                                                                                
Soil moisture was monitored throughout the study and was found to               
be generally lower for turf covered plots.  However, moisture                   
level for surface irrigated plots was similar to moisture level                 
in the turf-free plots, and yet there were growth differences in                
these plots; therefore, competition for moisture is probably not                
a direct cause of the reduced growth seen in this study.                        
                                                                                
Analysis for leaf nitrogen showed that competition for nitrogen                 
did occur.  Percent N in dogwood and forsythia leaves grown in                  
turf-free plots was significantly higher than that in leaves of                 
plants in check plots.  Subsurface fertilizer and irrigation                    
increased leaf N over that of other treatments in both years, and               
subsurface fertilizer increased it the first year of the study.                 
Surface treatments showed no effect on leaf N.                                  
                                                                                
A bioassay was conducted on greenhouse-grown forsythia to                       
investigate the possible release of phytotoxins from turfgrass.                 
Rooted cuttings of forsythia were watered four times per week                   
with leachate from pots of Kentucky bluegrass, red fescue, and                  
perennial ryegrass.  Fifteen weeks after planting, the forsythia                
roots and tops were harvested separately and measured for growth.               
                                                                                
Forsythia cuttings receiving leachates from turfgrass showed                    
significantly less top growth than those receiving tap water.                   
Root growth was also affected by leachates from ryegrass and                    
fescue, but not from bluegrass.  Other than receiving leachates                 
or tap water, the plants received identical amounts of water and                
nutrients, indicating that inhibitors were present in the                       
leachates.                                                                      
                                                                                
This study shows that turfgrass reduces the growth of dogwood and               
forsythia.  This is probably the result of competition for N and                
the production of phytotoxins by the turfgrass.  Subsurface                     
fertilization may help compensate for the effects of N competi-                 
tion, but  removal of the turfgrass is necessary to eliminate the               
phytotoxins.                                                                    
                                                                                
Reference: Fales, S.L. and R.C. Wakefield. 1981. Effects of                     
Turfgrass on the Establishment of Woody Plants. Agronomy Journal                
73:605-610.                                                                     
****************                                                                
                                                                                
EFFECTS OF SLUDGE, BED, AND GENOTYPE ON CARROT AND CUCUMBER                     
FLAVOR                                                                          
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture                                              
                                                                                
Home gardeners and commercial vegetable growers have been                       
increasing their use of sludge and sludge composts for fertiliz-                
ing soil.  Several studies have investigated the resulting entry                
of heavy metals into the food chain, but very few have studied                  
the effects of the sludges on food quality, particularly taste.                 
Many people grow their own vegetables because they think the                    
taste of home-grown exceeds that of purchased produce.  This                    
study attempts to determine the effects of municipal and indus-                 
trial sludge and altering bed height on the flavor of carrots and               
cucumbers.  Such information may assist the gardener in deter-                  
mining how appropriate the use of sewage sludge may be in the                   
home garden.                                                                    
                                                                                
Conclusions                                                                     
                                                                                
Cucumber and carrot flavor is influenced by cultural method and                 
type of soil amendment.  For the varieties used in this study,                  
the effect is not large enough to affect overall preference.  It                
is likely that the home gardener need not be concerned about the                
effect of sewage sludge used as a soil amendment on the flavor of               
carrots or cucumbers.                                                           
                                                                                
Abstract                                                                        
                                                                                
Three varieties of carrot and one of cucumber were grown in soil                
which was amended with municipal sludge, industrial sludge, or in               
soil which was unamended.  These treatments were repeated for                   
three bed types, one of which was ground level and two which were               
variations on raised beds.  After harvest the vegetables were                   
sampled by trained taste panelists who rated the carrots for                    
harshness, sweetness, metallic flavor, and overall preference and               
the cucumbers for bitterness, metallic flavor, and overall                      
preference.                                                                     
                                                                                
Small but significant differences were found in the harshness of                
carrots grown with various soil amendments.  Those grown in                     
industrial sludge amended soil were more harsh than those grown                 
in soil with no amendments or in municipal sludge amended soil.                 
Carrots grown in ground level beds were found to be slightly                    
sweeter than those grown in raised beds.  Neither of these                      
differences was great enough to affect overall preference for the               
various treatments.                                                             
                                                                                
Cucumbers grown in level beds were significantly less bitter than               
those grown in raised beds.  This difference was not great enough               
to affect the panelists' overall preference for fruit grown in                  
any particular bed type.  There was no significant difference in                
taste or preference for cucumbers grown in soil with the various                
treatments.                                                                     
                                                                                
Reference: Harrison, Helen C., Jack E. Staub, and Philipp W.                    
Simon. 1985. The Effects of Sludge, Bed, and Genotype on Carrot                 
and Cucumber Flavor. HortScience 20(2):209-211.                                 
***********                                                                     
                                                                                
PERFORMANCE OF FOUR TOMATO CULTIVARS INTERCROPPED WITH SNAP BEANS               
                                                                                
Intercropping is the planting of two types of vegetables in the                 
same space so that one vegetable occupies an area which the other               
vegetable would not fill, as when lettuce is planted between rows               
of corn, with the object of increasing the total productivity of                
that unit of land.  Research has shown that when tomatoes were                  
intercropped with cabbage, corn, cucumbers, or okra, overall                    
production was greater than for monocropping the same area of                   
land, but tomato yield was reduced.  This study investigates the                
effects of intercropping various tomato varieties with a short                  
season crop, snap beans.  Gardeners with limited garden space may               
be able to use such information in planning their gardens.                      
                                                                                
Conclusions                                                                     
                                                                                
Snap bean yield per foot of row was not reduced by intercropping                
the beans with tomatoes.                                                        
                                                                                
Tomatoes intercropped with snap beans had a significantly lower                 
yield (average 32% decline) than monocropped tomatoes grown under               
otherwise identical conditions.                                                 
                                                                                
Total production for land used was greater for intercropping than               
for monocropping.  For the gardener with limited space who                      
desires both snap beans and tomatoes, less land will be used if                 
the two vegetables are intercropped.  If the gardener is                        
satisfied with the reduction in tomato yield, a crop of snap                    
beans can be raised in what would otherwise be nonproductive land               
at the base of the tomato plants.                                               
                                                                                
Note to agents from consumer horticulture office:  Tomato yield                 
might be improved when intercropping tomatoes and snap beans by                 
1) allowing tomatoes to become established before planting the                  
beans, 2) staking the tomatoes, and 3) employing some form of                   
frost protection to extend the season as long as possible.  None                
of these practices were used in the experiment described.                       
                                                                                
Abstract                                                                        
                                                                                
Five varieties of tomatoes and one variety of snap beans were                   
grown as monocrops and as bean-tomato intercrops.  The different                
varieties of tomato were separated into individual treatments.                  
Tomato rows were placed two feet apart whether the plants were                  
grown monocrop or intercrop.  Tomato transplants and bean seeds                 
were planted on the same day.  The plots were fertilized and                    
weeded during field preparation and during the growing season.                  
Tomatoes were harvested throughout the season.  Snap beans were                 
harvested for a two week period and the plants were then broken                 
off at soil level and left as a mulch in the plots.                             
                                                                                
Snap bean yield per foot of row was unaffected by intercropping                 
with tomatoes.  Note that in a monocropping system, beans would                 
be grown in the tomato row, so yield per area of the entire plot                
for snap beans intercropped with tomatoes was in effect half that               
for monocropping snap beans.                                                    
                                                                                
Tomato yield per foot of row was significantly decreased for                    
tomatoes intercropped with snap beans as compared to monocropped                
tomatoes.  The average decrease over the five varieties was 32%.                
Since yield was not decreased by more than 50%, intercropping                   
results in higher total yields for land area used.                              
                                                                                
Reference: Teasdale, John R. and Kenneth L. Deahl. 1987. Perfor-                
mance of Four Tomato Cultivars Intercropped with Snap Beans.                    
HortScience 22(4):668-669.                                                      
*******************                                                             
                                                                                
EFFECT OF IRRIGATION LEVEL ON YIELD OF PINTO DRY BEANS AND                      
TENDERNESS AFTER COOKING                                                        
                                                                                
Garden experts frequently exhort gardeners through books,                       
magazines, and newspapers to maintain optimal moisture conditions               
to assure a high yield and high quality crop.  Some crops, such                 
as radishes and celery, require plenty of moisture throughout the               
season to produce palatable vegetables.  However, gardeners do                  
not have infinite time or resources to water their gardens. If                  
some crops produce reasonable yields of vegetables having good                  
eating quality  without irrigation, the grower could choose to                  
spend time watering other crops that are more drought sensitive.                
                                                                                
Previous studies have shown that dry beans generally produce                    
larger yields when irrigated.  However, the author knows of no                  
studies of the cooked quality of the beans in relation to                       
irrigation.  This study evaluates the cooked quality of pinto                   
beans grown under various irrigation regimens.   Such information               
may assist the home grower in making decisions about the need to                
water pinto beans.                                                              
                                                                                
Conclusions                                                                     
                                                                                
Yield of dry beans increased linearly as amount of water applied                
increased, up to the point where water applied was equal to                     
maximum water lost through evapotranspiration.                                  
                                                                                
Irrigation rates did not affect tenderness or quality of cooked                 
beans.                                                                          
                                                                                
Abstract                                                                        
                                                                                
Pinto beans were grown in fertilized soil using irrigation                      
treatments of 0, 33, 67, 100, and 133 per cent of potential                     
evapotranspiration.  The potential evapotranspiration (ET) is the               
amount of water which may be released from the plant into the                   
atmosphere from the leaf surfaces.  This amount was estimated                   
before irrigation, which occurred on Monday, Wednesday, and                     
Friday throughout the growing season.  Drip irrigation with                     
emitters placed 18 inches apart were used to apply the water.  At               
maturity, plants were harvested and yield was measured.  Tender-                
ness of cooked beans was evaluated in a shear press which                       
measured the force required to crush the beans.                                 
                                                                                
Yield increased as irrigation increased, until the amount of                    
water exceeded the potential ET.  During a dry year, irrigation                 
with 33% of the potential ET resulted in a yield of 840 kg/ha;                  
the dryland yield was 220 kg/ha.  During a year with a greater                  
amount of rainfall, irrigation with 33% of the potential ET                     
resulted in a yield of 1770 kg/ha and a dryland yield of 1000                   
kg/ha.  Watering at 33% ET equalled about one half inch of water                
applied per week during the dry year and less than one quarter of               
an inch of water applied per week during the wetter year.                       
                                                                                
Shear values for cooked beans grown in the various treatments                   
were low enough to indicate acceptable cooked quality.  There was               
no significant difference between treatments for these values.                  
                                                                                
Results of this study indicate that during drought conditions                   
yield of dry beans may be lower than desired, but the quality of                
the beans produced will not be affected.  A small amount of water               
applied regularly throughout the season will increase the yield                 
dramatically, an especially important point for small scale                     
gardeners who have devoted a portion of their limited gardening                 
space to dry bean production.                                                   
*********************                                                           
                                                                                
MEETING ABSTRACTS                                                               
                                                                                
45th Annual Meeting of the ASHS Southern Region                                 
                                                                                
Evaluation of Row Covers for Enhancing Yield and Controlling                    
Insects on Summer Squash                                                        
Bonnie Bushnell, Brent Loy, and Otho Wells, Department of Plant                 
Science, University of New Hampshire, Durham, NH 03824.                         
                                                                                
Two cultivars of summer squash, "Smoothie" and "Classic" in 1983,               
and "Smoothie" and "Ambassador" in 1984, were used to compare the               
effectiveness of row covers for increasing early and total yields               
and for insect control.  In 1983 the treatments were 1) black                   
plastic mulch, 2) mulch and nonwoven polyester (Reemay) row                     
cover, and 3) mulch and slitted plastic row cover.  In 1984 the                 
treatments were 1) bare soil, 2) black plastic mulch, 3) mulch                  
and nonwoven polyester row cover, 4) mulch and nonwoven                         
polypropylene row cover, and 5) mulch and slitted plastic row                   
cover.  In 1983 the populations of aphids and striped cucumber                  
beetles were low, and in 1984 aphids were not prevalent until row               
cover removal at the end of June.  All row cover materials were                 
effective in excluding aphids and cucumber beetles from the                     
covered plants.  Polyester and slitted row covers increased                     
early, but not total yields of "Smoothie" in 1983.  In 1984 only                
"Smoothie" summer squash showed significant treatment effects;                  
plants on black plastic mulch had higher early yields than those                
on bare soil and both early and total yields were increased by                  
row cover treatments as compared to bare soil or black plastic                  
mulch treatments.                                                               
                                                                                
Comment from Consumer Horticulture Office:  It appears that the                 
value of using row covers is influenced by crop, variety, and                   
weather conditions at the time of use.                                          
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
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Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
April 1988 Notes                                                                
                                                                                
Herbaceous Plants                                                               
                                                                                
* Don't throw out the little gladiolus cormels you dug out with                 
the larger corms last fall. Plant them this spring in the garden                
in a row like peas. Allow the foliage to grow throughout the                    
summer and lift them for winter storage this fall.  They will                   
reach blooming size in two years.                                               
                                                                                
* Plant dahlia tubers as soon as danger of frost has passed.                    
Position flower supports at the time of planting to avoid                       
injuring tubers with blind insertion of stakes later.                           
                                                                                
* To ensure the dahlia tubers you intend to plant have survived                 
bring them into a warm, lit spot to sprout.  For early flowers,                 
start them growing in pots.                                                     
                                                                                
* Consider planting flowers which can be dried for winter                       
arrangements.  Strawflower, statice, Chinese lantern, celosia,                  
and globe amaranth are some of the best choices for successful                  
drying.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Do not restrict yourself to buying bedding plants in bloom.                   
Petunias that bloom in the pack are often rootbound or overgrown,               
and after planting may actually have future bloom delayed.                      
Plants without blossoms will grow better and bloom sooner than                  
those that have outgrown their pots.                                            
                                                                                
* To extend the blooming period of gladiolus, plant early, middle               
and late-season selections each week until the middle of June.                  
Choose a sunny location and plant the corms 4-6" deep and 6-8"                  
apart.                                                                          
                                                                                
* While commonly grown as a house plant, strawberry begonia                     
(Saxifraga stolonifera) can also be grown as a ground cover for                 
light shade. It is cold hardy to -10 degrees F.                                 
                                                                                
* Scatter annual poppy seeds in flower borders. The fine seeds                  
need no covering. The plants grow rapidly and provide colorful                  
flowers in early summer.                                                        
                                                                                
* Plant nasturtiums for a colorful show in a sunny location with                
poor soil.  They require warm soil to sprout and will start                     
blooming in about 50 days.  Too much water and fertilizer                       
produces lots of leaves and few flowers.                                        
                                                                                
* Three levels of flowers add vertical dimension to patio                       
planters.  By grouping three flower heights (trailing, low                      
edging, and tall background) into one container, the maximum                    
number of plants can be combined without crowding.  For example,                
use trailing blue lobelias or ivy-leaved geraniums near the edge                
to form a cascade.  Petunias or dusty miller can fill in the                    
second story.  In the background use plants such as large-type                  
geraniums or `Purple Ruffles' basil that will grow to 2 feet or                 
more by the end of the summer and add height without heaviness.                 
                                                                                
* Dig up and divide large chrysanthemums when they show signs of                
life.  Discard woody portions and replant divisions 12-15" apart.               
                                                                                
* Plant clematis in locations which receive at least 6 hours of                 
sunshine a day.  Use organic mulch or ground cover to shade roots               
and keep them cool.  Plant in rich, well-drained loam.                          
                                                                                
* The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station reports that                  
larger plants with more flowers can be grown in a soil mix                      
consisting of one part sphagnum moss, one part peat moss, two                   
parts perlite, and two parts compost than can be grown in four                  
other commonly used mixes.  Sphagnum moss is reported to increase               
aeration and water-holding capacity and to suppress soil-borne                  
diseases.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Many popular perennials can be divided now, including phlox,                  
fall asters, shasta daisies, baby's breath and liriope.  Set up a               
plant exchange with friends and neighbors to share excess plants.               
                                                                                
* Planted now, Sedum spectabile and Hosta tardiflora or H.                      
plantaginea will brighten your flowerbed in the fall with                       
flowers. Aster novae-angliae, which is a blue aster, or the red                 
chrysanthemum cultivar `Minn Ruby' are also late-blooming.                      
                                                                                
* If iris leaves appear thin and limp, check for borers. These                  
grub-like insects can ruin an entire planting if not detected and               
eradicated early.                                                               
                                                                                
* Fill the bare spots in the flower bed with moss roses                         
(Portulaca) and fertilize regularly to encourage blooms into the                
summer.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Blue amaryllis (Hippeastrum procerum) presents a rewarding                    
challenge to patient gardeners. Seeds are available from selected               
mail order seed companies and bloom in about 5 years.                           
                                                                                
* For hot weather color, select from the following: Gloriosa                    
daisy, Madagascar periwinkle, ornamental peppers, Mexican zinnia,               
Amaranthus `Joseph's Coat'.  Plant after all danger of frost is                 
past and enjoy the color from summer through fall.                              
                                                                                
* April is a good time to clean up plants and flower beds. Remove               
dead leaves and twigs and prune dead limbs.                                     
                                                                                
* Make a plot layout of your flower borders.  This is an easily                 
neglected chore, but doing it will provide you with valuable                    
information.  With an accurate plot plan, you will know where to                
locate the spring flowering bulbs you plant next fall.  Plans                   
will also simplify spring and summer gardening as you will be                   
able to correctly identify the plants in border and plan loca-                  
tions for annuals to provide uninterrupted bloom after bulbs and                
early flowering perennials have faded.                                          
                                                                                
* Crowding inhibits daffodil blooming.  Mark crowded clumps so                  
they will be easy to locate for digging and separation in July.                 
                                                                                
* Cut faded flower stalks to the ground on daffodils, hyacinths,                
and other spring flowering bulbs.  DO NOT cut the foliage until                 
it dies naturally.  The leaves are necessary to produce strong                  
bulbs capable of reflowering.                                                   
                                                                                
Woody Ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* Pinch back new pyracantha growth now to promote compact growth                
without sacrificing the crop of berries.                                        
                                                                                
* Shrubs such as andromeda, azalea, blueberry, camellia, mountain               
laurel, and rhododendron grow best on acid soils with a pH of                   
about 5.0.  At a higher pH value these shrubs may become yellow                 
and make poor growth.                                                           
                                                                                
* Prune roses to buds which point outward.  This directs new                    
growth away from the center of the plant and encourages good air                
and sunlight penetration.  Dark-colored canes indicate dead wood.               
Cut back to an inch below these darkened areas.  If no live buds                
are left, remove the entire cane or branch.                                     
                                                                                
* Prune spring blooming shrubs such as forsythia, weigelia, and                 
early spirea after they have completed flowering.                               
                                                                                
* If dogwood leaves have been small, sparse, and pale, fertilize                
with a lawn or garden fertilizer.  Apply the fertilizer one month               
before the average date of the last frost in spring.  Use one                   
half to one cup  of 10-10-10 formula fertilizer.  Broadcast the                 
fertilizer  under the canopy of the tree which is where the                     
greatest concentration of feeder roots grow, and water it in.                   
This will aid bud formation which takes place during the summer.                
                                                                                
* Once new growth begins on trees and shrubs, cut back winter                   
killed twigs to green wood.                                                     
                                                                                
* Aphids on your roses will cause deformed, inferior flowers. If                
you notice aphids, control them with insecticidal soaps or                      
contact your extension agent for an approved insecticide.                       
                                                                                
* Tree seedlings can get off to a strong start in quart or                      
half-gallon milk cartons.  Remove carton tops and bottoms and                   
stand them on a frame covered with 1/4" mesh hardware.  Fill them               
with a mixture of equal parts of peat moss, perlite and                         
vermiculite.  As the tap root grows through the mesh, it is air                 
pruned, forcing the development of fibrous side roots.                          
                                                                                
* Repair damaged tree leaders by training a young and flexible                  
lateral or side branch to become a strong terminal shoot.  Select               
a branch near the top of the tree and gently flex it to an                      
upright position.  Tie it in place, using a stake as a splint, if               
necessary.  Remove the ties when the branch has adjusted to the                 
change and will stay upright on its own.                                        
                                                                                
* Do not fertilize azaleas and camellias until they have finished               
blooming.  They should also be pruned, if necessary, after                      
blooming.                                                                       
                                                                                
* The best time to plant shrubs and trees is on a calm, cloudy                  
day, when excessive water losses from sun and wind exposure will                
not add to transplant shock.                                                    
                                                                                
* When pruning forsythia do not shear it as you would a hedge. It               
is better to thin out the old branches as close to the ground as                
possible. This should be done immediately after blooming.  If it                
has gotten too large, reduce its size by heading back branches                  
individually.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Before planting bare-root shrubs and trees, soak the roots in                 
water for at least one hour, but no more than 24.                               
                                                                                
* If wisteria does not bloom, it needs careful pruning to correct               
the condition. Prune long, straggling canes and all dead wood.                  
Root pruning sometimes helps, too.                                              
                                                                                
Landscape                                                                       
                                                                                
* A well-designed berm or man-made hill can be a landscape asset.               
Even a low berm adds considerable interest on a flat property.  A               
berm can provide screening for privacy, deflect and absorb noise,               
or redirect wind or water flow where necessary.  It can also                    
improve microclimates for plants, its south side staying warmer                 
than the north side.                                                            
                                                                                
* A tall evergreen hedge north of your home can cut heating bills               
by 34% in windswept regions or by 10% in sheltered areas. If your               
house is exposed to winter winds, consider establishing an                      
evergreen planting for a windbreak this spring.                                 
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
(Lawn notes are reviewed by Jack Hall, Extension Agronomist)                    
                                                                                
* Estimate grass seed needs at one and a half to two and a half                 
lbs. of bluegrass seed or four to six lbs. tall fescue per 1000                 
square feet.  Remove debris, level, and firm soil before seeding.               
Cover seed by raking the area lightly.                                          
                                                                                
* Do not mow the lawn until it has grown at least 2 inches. The                 
roots are being renewed in the spring and grass needs vigorous                  
initial top growth.                                                             
                                                                                
* Plant grass seed to fill in bare spots in the lawn.  Loosen the               
soil to a depth of four to six inches with a spade or rake.  Sow                
a high quality seed, spreading it liberally, and work it in                     
lightly.  Use a high phosphorous fertilizer formulated to                       
encourage root development in new lawn areas.  Gently water the                 
newly seeded area.  Keep it moist, but not flooded.  Use a mulch                
to retain moisture.                                                             
                                                                                
* Check with your local extension agent for herbicide                           
recommendations to control grassy, annual weeds in established                  
lawns.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Lawn grasses do best if mowed at the following heights:                       
   Kentucky Bluegrass     1 1/2 to 2 1/2"                                       
   Tall Fescue            1 1/2 to 3"                                           
   Creeping Red Fescue        2 to 3"                                           
   Perennial Ryegrass     1 1/2 to 2 1/2"                                       
   Bermudagrass             1/2 to 1"                                           
   Zoysia Grass             3/4 to 1"                                           
                                                                                
* Once the snow melts and the lawn surface is dry, lawns that                   
have suffered from freeze-thaw damage will benefit from being                   
rolled.  Depressed areas may be filled with topsoil.  Fill in                   
sparser areas by sowing new seed.                                               
                                                                                
* The lawn mower blade should be kept sharp so it will cut the                  
grass instead of tearing it.  If you sharpen the blade at home,                 
be sure to balance it, too.  Place the center hole of the blade                 
on a screwdriver handle held upright in the vise.  Check to see                 
if it balances.  If not, sharpen the heavier side until the blade               
balances on the handle.                                                         
                                                                                
* Remove sticks, rocks, and other debris from the lawn to prevent               
damaging your lawnmower or injuring yourself when mowing.  Check                
your lawnmower and other lawn-care equipment in preparation for                 
the coming season.                                                              
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* Wild greens are usually best in early spring when their flavor                
is mild.  Common weeds that are edible include pigweed, mustard,                
purslane, lambs quarter, and dandelion greens.  Harvesting these                
plants from your garden plot will provide double benefits.                      
                                                                                
* Swiss chard, a soft textured, mild-flavored green, provides a                 
constant harvest from spring until fall.  It does not bolt and go               
to seed in hot weather like spinach or lettuce.  Swiss chard,                   
especially the red cultivars, is also suitable for flower                       
arrangements.                                                                   
                                                                                
* The date of the last killing frost in your area can be used to                
calculate the approximate earliest and latest planting dates for                
spring crops.  VCES publication #426-331, Vegetable Planting                    
Guide and Recommended Planting Dates, can be used to determine                  
planting dates and the average length of harvest for each crop.                 
Harvest dates are particularly important if you also plan on                    
having a fall garden.                                                           
                                                                                
* In the Piedmont and Mountain regions, this is the time to set                 
out cool-weather vegetables such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts,                 
cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, and onions.  When the danger of                  
frost has passed, transplant tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant.                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
* Allow about twice the germination time listed on the seed                     
packet when weather is wet or cold.  If there is no sign of                     
growth after this time, dig around a little to check for sprouted               
seeds.  If you find no signs of life, the seed has probably                     
rotted and you will need to replant.                                            
                                                                                
* When planning the vegetable garden, consider that leafy                       
vegetables need at least 6 hours of sunlight in order to develop                
properly.  Vegetables such as tomatoes, squash, eggplant, and                   
peppers need 10 hours of full sun.                                              
                                                                                
* Due to a thin seed coat and high sugar content, super sweet                   
corn varieties are especially sensitive to cold soil conditions.                
Early plantings, when soil temperatures are below 65 degrees F.,                
will not come up as consistently as regular sweet corn.  They are               
also susceptible to corn root maggots and may require preplant                  
soil insecticide treatment.                                                     
                                                                                
* For easy watering of tomatoes and other large vegetables, plant               
a gallon can with holes punched in the bottom near the plants.                  
Watering through the can puts moisture near the roots where it's                
needed and insures adequate irrigation without surface runoff.                  
                                                                                
* If you are interested in exchanging seeds and cuttings of                     
uncommon crops, contact an organization involved in preserving                  
the variety and quality of our food crops.  The Seed Savers                     
Exchange (Kent Whealy, 203 Rural Ave., Decorah, IA 52101), which                
organizes exchanges of vegetable seed, also maintains an heirloom               
seed bank, and a growers network to multiply special collections                
of vegetables.  The North American Fruit Explorers (Jill Vorbeck,               
Rt. 1, Box 94, Chapin, IL 62628) has scion exchange and fruit                   
testing programs.                                                               
                                                                                
* Black plastic pots absorb more heat from the sun than white                   
plastic or clay pots, resulting in quick growth for heat-loving                 
crops.  On sunny days, black plastic pots can be nine degrees                   
warmer than other pots.                                                         
                                                                                
* Plant a bush type winter squash like `Table Ace' or `Gold                     
Nugget' if your garden is too small for the long vine varieties.                
                                                                                
* Asparagus grows best in sandy loam soil.  Set plants 18 inches                
apart in rows four to five feet apart, or in wide beds of three                 
rows with plants 18 inches apart in all directions.  Place plants               
in the bottom of 12 inch deep planting holes or trenches and                    
cover the crowns with two to three inches of well firmed soil.                  
As the plants grow, continue to pull soil over the crowns (about                
two inches every two weeks) until the trench is filled.                         
                                                                                
* Home made trellises can save space when used with vining                      
vegetables.  An A-frame cucumber trellis consists of two matched                
ladder-like structures hinged together at the top; stagger the                  
two sections to allow nesting when stored.                                      
                                                                                
Fruits                                                                          
                                                                                
* If fruit trees lack pollinators nearby, cut bouquets of                       
blossoms from good pollinators and place them in pails under                    
blossoming trees.  Make plans to plant cross-pollinating varie-                 
ties in the fall.                                                               
                                                                                
* Thin young fruit of apples, pears, and peaches to insure large,               
healthy fruit.  Thin within 25 days of the peak bloom, leaving 4                
to 6 inches between fruit.                                                      
                                                                                
* In shaping young fruit trees, round hardwood toothpicks are                   
useful for the early and important job of limb spreading. Simply                
insert a toothpick between the trunk and branch to force the                    
latter to grow outward at about a 60 degree angle rather than                   
upright.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Plant strawberries now if you haven't already.  Place straw                   
around established plants as a mulch after weeding and ferti-                   
lizing the bed.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Grape vines with excessive vegetative growth generally produce                
low quality fruit.  In early spring, remove the canes with the                  
fewest buds to allow light, moisture, and air circulation within                
the plant which will improve fruit quality and quantity.                        
                                                                                
* Improve the fruiting of blueberries by removing unproductive                  
wood that is diseased, dead, and broken.  Also remove old stems                 
(five to six years old) that have begun to lose their vigor.                    
Select six to eight of the most vigorous, upright-growing stems                 
for fruiting wood and remove all others.                                        
                                                                                
* Raspberry canes can be pruned and thinned now.  Removal of                    
excessive canes at ground level will improve air circulation and                
light penetration, encouraging heavy fruiting.  Cut off all dead                
cane tips.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Interior latex paint may be used on the trunks of newly planted               
trees to prevent sunburn.  This material is easy to apply and                   
will gradually weather away, allowing the bark to become                        
resistant to sun exposure gradually.                                            
                                                                                
Indoor Plants                                                                   
                                                                                
* Don't give African violets too much room.  They bloom better in               
small pots.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Easter lilies, popular gift plants, need bright, indirect                     
light.  Keep the soil moist.  They can be planted in a sunny spot               
in the garden after danger of frost is over, where they will                    
bloom next year.                                                                
                                                                                
* Don't be too anxious to move your house plants outdoors.  Even                
a slight chill can knock the leaves off tender plants.                          
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* Agronomists at Virginia Tech have experimented with portable                  
metronomes to time their paces during the spinner-spreading of                  
seed, fertilizer, or granulated pesticide.  They've found that                  
metronome timing helps significantly in maintaining accurate                    
walking speed while spreading the materials.  How about walking                 
to the beat of music played by a portable tape player to even out               
applications in the home garden?                                                
                                                                                
* Measure rainfall with a rain gauge posted near the garden so                  
you can tell when to water.  You can buy one or make one by                     
marking off the interior of a can in inches and sinking it part                 
way into the ground.  The garden needs about one inch of rain per               
week from April to September.                                                   
                                                                                
* Moles are tunnelling insect eaters particularly attracted to                  
grubs.  When bulbs are missing, or shrubs have root damage, voles               
or field mice are the likely culprits.  These rodents often use                 
mole tunnels as their runs.                                                     
                                                                                
* Delay organic mulching to allow soil to warm deeply, but do                   
mulch before weeds become established.                                          
                                                                                
* Reputable nurseries sell bedding plants that are already                      
hardened off.  Woody and yellow plants are overhardened and will                
be slow to resume growth.                                                       
                                                                                
* Harden transplants of flowers and vegetables by decreasing                    
water, fertilizer, and growing temperatures.  Transplant on a                   
cloudy day, in late afternoon or in early evening to reduce                     
transplant shock.  Water with a half-strength fertilizer                        
solution.  Protect the plants from wind and sun for a few days                  
after transplanting by propping a piece of newspaper or cardboard               
to the south side of the plant.  Water the plants once or twice                 
during the next week.                                                           
                                                                                
* Over or under fertilization can weaken or kill plants.                        
Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by stunted, yellowing leaves               
near the bottom of the plant and slow, stunted growth.  Over                    
application of nitrogen may cause leaf tip burn or all vegetative               
growth (no flowers or fruit).                                                   
                                                                                
* Have you taken soil tests of your gardens, lawn, orchard, and                 
berry patch in the past year?   Don't guess about fertilization.                
Soil analysis will help you base fertilizer and lime applications               
on the present condition of the soil and the nutrients needed by                
your plants.  Fall is the best time to test garden soil so                      
corrections in fertility and acidity can be made before spring                  
planting, but testing now is better than not testing at all.                    
Contact your local extension agent for instructions for sampling                
soil.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Some people report luck with beer as a pesticide for slugs.                   
Place it in small containers sunk in the ground until the soil is               
even with the rim.  Use cheap beer; slugs aren't connoisseurs and               
will happily drink themselves to death on whatever the grocery                  
has on sale.                                                                    
                                                                                
* When transplanting seedlings in peat pots to your garden, be                  
careful not to allow the rim of the peat pot to protrude above                  
the soil level.  If the rim is above the soil level, it will act                
as a wick and draw moisture away from the transplant.  To prevent               
this from happening, break away the rim of the pot before                       
planting and make sure the pot is completely covered with soil.                 
                                                                                
* Control insect pests before they become unmanageable. Young                   
insects are more easily killed by pesticides than mature insects,               
so spray or dust while they are small.                                          
                                                                                
* Put a martin house in the garden to attract these insect-eating               
friends.                                                                        
                                                                                
Herbs                                                                           
                                                                                
* Many herbs are excellent for both casual gardens or formal                    
plantings.  These herbs do well in sandy soil and are partial to                
full sun locations: creeping thyme, sage, santolina, and garlic.                
                                                                                
* For a handsome addition to your herb collection, try lovage                   
(Levisticum officinale), a hardy perennial with a distinctive                   
celery flavor.  Leaves can be used sparingly in soups and salads,               
stems can be blanched or eaten raw, and seeds can be added to                   
candies, bread, and cakes.                                                      
                                                                                
* Start herb seeds indoors in moist planting medium.  Place in                  
bright, indirect light and move to a sunny window when germina-                 
tion begins.  When the seedlings are 2-3" tall, transplant into                 
peat pots for the garden or into clay pots for use on your                      
terrace or balcony.  Some herbs easily grown from seed include                  
chives, sage, sweet marjoram, basil, summer savory, dill, and                   
parsley.                                                                        
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
April 1988 Press Releases                                                       
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by Ellen M. Silva, Extension                
Technician working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Consumer            
Horticulture, using material provided by Don Davis, City of Lynchburg           
Extension Agent, and Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab. The                
Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed for agent use in           
preparing radio and newspaper features and other educational programs.          
                                                                                
Spruce Mites                                               54 lines             
Flowering Dogwood                                          87 lines             
Catching Some Rays - Season Extenders                      85 lines             
Azaleas and/or Rhododendrons                               88 lines             
Selecting Professional Lawn Services                       69 lines             
Jack-in-the-Pulpit                                         59 lines             
*****************************                                                   
                                                                                
Note to Agents:                                                                 
                                                                                
We know that many of you use the HORT information to assist you in the          
preparation of your own educational efforts.  This work is supported            
by subscriptions to The Virgina Gardener newsletter.  Please encourage          
new subscribers so that we can continue to help you do your job.  The           
following is a press release suitable for print or broadcast media.             
                                                                                
****************************************************************                
                                                                                
The Virginia Gardener newsletter can help gardeners searching for the           
latest in gardening information.  Written by Virginia Cooperative               
Extension Specialists and Agents throughout the state, The Virginia             
Gardener contains articles of seasonal interest that apply to                   
gardeners from the mountains to the seashore.  Topics covered include           
new plant varieties, the latest tips and techniques for successful              
gardening, methods to control garden pests, and reviews of recent               
horticultural research.   Book reviews keep gardeners up to date on             
the latest horticultural publications, and monthly notes help keep              
gardeners caught up with gardening chores.                                      
                                                                                
Subscribers to The Virginia Gardener have the opportunity to                    
participate in seed trials throughout the year.  Past varieties                 
evaluated by subscribers include `County Fair 83' cucumber and `Early           
Prolific' straightneck squash.  Gardeners will find it rewarding to             
assist in the evaluation of new varieties, and lots of fun to receive           
trial seed.                                                                     
                                                                                
To subscribe to The Virginia Gardener for 12 monthly issues, send a             
$5.00 check, payable to Treasure, VA Tech, to The Virginia Gardener,            
Dept. APR, Va. Tech Extension Distribution Center, 112 Landsdowne St.,          
Blacksburg, VA  24060.                                                          
*****************                                                               
                                                                                
Spruce Mite                                                                     
                                                                                
Spruce mites are one of the most serious pests of conifers.  These              
pests, like other spider mites, damage plants by sucking sap from leaf          
cells, causing a stippling or fine flecking on the upper surface of             
the leaves.  Host plants for spruce mites include hemlock, arborvitae,          
spruce, fir, juniper, and pine.  During a severe infestation, foliage           
will become pale; arborvitae turns brown, spruce grayish, juniper               
yellow, and hemlock nearly white.                                               
                                                                                
Spruce mites are not insects.  They are closely related to spiders,             
daddy longlegs, and ticks.  Unlike insects which have six legs and              
three body parts, spider mites have eight legs and a one piece body.            
They also lack wings, antennae, and compound eyes.  Individual spruce           
mites are almost microscopic, yet when they occur in large numbers,             
they can cause serious damage.  Young plants may die during the first           
season of attack, while older trees may progressively weaken and die            
from the bottom up over a period of years.                                      
                                                                                
Spruce mites overwinter as eggs at the base of needles and hatch in             
April or May.  They complete a generation every four to five weeks,             
and so the population can build to damaging levels quickly.  Feeding            
and reproduction occurs most rapidly in cool weather.                           
                                                                                
Symptoms of spruce mite infestation include the fading color of the             
foliage mentioned earlier, falling needles, and fine webbing on the             
foliage.  To determine that the damage is caused by spruce mites, hold          
a white paper below an affected branch and strike the branch sharply,           
knocking some of the mites to the paper where they will crawl about.            
Though only about the size of a pepper grain, the green, red, yellow,           
or black mites will be easy to see as they move against the white               
background.                                                                     
                                                                                
Spraying affected plants with a strong jet of water is frequently               
recommended as a mite control measure.  However, entomologists at               
Virginia Tech feel that water sprays afford insufficient control,               
though the addition of insecticidal soaps to the water may increase             
the effectiveness of this treatment.  Most insecticides are not                 
effective on mites and some, especially carbaryl (Sevin), result in             
increased mite damage by killing beneficial insects that are their              
natural enemies.  Check with your local extension agent for current             
chemical control recommendations.  Remember, mites are not insects, so          
a general purpose insecticide probably will not be effective.  Use              
miticides rather than insecticides to control spider mites.                     
                                                                                
(Reviewed by Eric Day, Insect ID Lab)                                           
                                                                                
Note to agents:  Refer to June 1987 press releases for additional               
information on spider mites.                                                    
*****************                                                               
                                                                                
Flowering Dogwood                                                               
                                                                                
Flowering dogwood, Cornus florida, is attractive throughout the year.           
Spring brings a showy display of white or pink flowers, followed by             
attractive, coarsely textured  summer foliage.  Colorful fall foliage,          
ranging from red through scarlet and purple, is accompanied by                  
brilliant red fruit which is relished by birds.  During winter, the             
horizontal branching habit accented by large flower buds is an                  
interesting landscape feature.                                                  
                                                                                
The true flowers of flowering dogwood are greenish yellow and                   
unobtrusive.  The show is provided by four large bracts which surround          
the flowers.  While the wild, white flowering dogwood is best known,            
named cultivars vary in color from white to deep pink.  Bloom occurs            
in April or May, depending on variety, and will last 10 to 14 days              
during favorable weather.                                                       
                                                                                
With a mature height rarely exceeding 30 feet, flowering dogwood is             
well suited for use as a shade or specimen tree on a small lot or near          
a patio.  Flowering dogwood thrives in light shade, so it is ideal for          
use in a shady shrub border or naturalized on a wooded lot.  This               
small tree casts light shade and does not have a highly competitive             
root system, which makes it possible to grow a wide variety of plants           
underneath the canopy, such as azaleas and rhododendrons which require          
similar culture.                                                                
                                                                                
Dogwoods are difficult to transplant.  Early spring, before flowering,          
is the best time to move flowering dogwood from the wild or to plant            
purchased trees.  Freshly dug, balled and burlapped plants are much             
easier to transplant successfully than bare root plants.  Container             
grown plants also transplant well.                                              
                                                                                
Obtain a plant grown in a hardiness zone equal to or colder than the            
one in which it will be planted, as trees grown from warmer climate             
stock sometimes fail to have adequate bud hardiness for spring bloom.           
Plant the tree in acid (pH 6.0 to 7.0), well drained soil with a high           
organic content, and mulch the surface to maintain soil moisture.               
While dogwoods prefer light shade, full sun is acceptable if the soil           
is kept moist throughout the summer.  Growth will be slow while the             
tree recovers from transplanting.  The only pruning that is necessary           
is removal of dead, diseased, or injured wood.                                  
                                                                                
Dogwood borers, the worst pest of flowering dogwood, can enter a trunk          
through wounds and may girdle and eventually kill the tree as they              
feed below the bark.  Prevent infestation by wrapping the trunks of             
young trees with burlap or tree wrap paper.  A layer of mulch around            
the trees will reduce chances of nicking them with the lawn mower,              
leaving wounds which allow borer entry.                                         
                                                                                
Several diseases can affect flowering dogwood.  Stem cankers appear as          
sunken or swollen areas in the bark and can kill affected branches.             
Cut out and dispose of infected branches, disinfecting the pruners              
between cuts.  Spot  anthracnose is a fungal disease which can ruin             
flowering for the season if a period of wet weather occurs just as the          
bracts are unfolding.  The cup-like buds catch the rain, providing an           
ideal environment for the fungus.  It can cause spotting on the leaves          
as well as the bracts.  If this has been a problem in past years,               
contact your county extension agent for fungicide recommendations.              
Apply the fungicide as the buds open, again when the bracts fall, and           
once again four weeks later when the new flower buds have formed.               
                                                                                
There are many named varieties of flowering dogwood available,                  
including the following:                                                        
                                                                                
Cornus florida rubra `Cherokee Chief' - well known variety with deep            
pink bracts which hold their color well.                                        
                                                                                
Cornus florida `Cloud Nine' - precocious white flowering variety noted          
for blooming as early as age one year.                                          
                                                                                
Cornus florida `Cherokee Princess' - white flowering variety with               
large bracts and vigorous growth.                                               
                                                                                
Cornus florida `Plena' - white flowering variety with semi-double               
bracts.                                                                         
                                                                                
Cornus florida `Welchii' - sparse blooming variety grown for its                
variegated green, white, and pink summer foliage.                               
                                                                                
Cornus florida `Sunset' - first red blooming variegated dogwood;                
summer foliage is green and yellow.                                             
                                                                                
(Reviewed by Joe Eakes, Instructor, Horticulture, and Mary Ann Hansen,          
Plant Clinic Diagnostician)                                                     
**********************                                                          
                                                                                
Catching Some Rays - Cloches, Row Covers, and Other Season Extenders            
                                                                                
Virginia gardeners have a reasonably long gardening season of 160 to            
180 days between frosts; at least it beats the 100 day season of                
northern Maine.  Still, any gardener worthy of the name is always               
looking for a way to hasten that first bite of green or to postpone             
the final day of harvest.  Such things do exist, and they can not only          
accelerate and extend the harvest, they can actually improve harvest            
yields and quality.  Cloches, row covers, cold frames, plastic                  
tunnels, sun pods (not to be confused with pea pods) and variations of          
these are all in the gardener's bag of tricks for season extending.             
                                                                                
Cold frames and cloches have a long and honored place in gardening              
tradition.  Cold frames are bottomless boxes, usually made of wood and          
often insulated in some manner, which have glazing of some sort which           
admits sunlight (traditionally, a discarded but unbroken storm window)          
for a top.  They are used as a halfway house for seedlings, allowing            
them to harden up to outside conditions after a cozy indoor beginning           
without having to face the extremes of the open garden.  They can also          
be used to produce crops in either early spring or late fall, and even          
on into winter.  Lettuce, radishes, small cabbage varieties, or other           
cool weather crops will thrive well into winter in the cool but                 
protected environment of the cold frame.  A steep top angle will allow          
the greatest amount of light and heat into the frame during the winter          
when the sun is low in the sky.   Continue to monitor the temperature           
of the frame when using it for winter crop production as you would in           
the spring or a sunny day might result in prematurely cooked                    
vegetables.                                                                     
                                                                                
The original cloche was a glass bell jar popular in the market gardens          
of Paris.  Today's cloche may be anything from a waxed paper tent to a          
bottomless plastic milk jug, but they all help protect young plants             
from early frosts and drying winds.  Some of the latest designs                 
include solar collectors such as water filled tubes to provide                  
additional frost protection.  The idea has been expanded into tunnels           
of solid and slitted plastic or fiberglass which cover entire rows.             
These can be augmented with the use of black plastic mulch which will           
aid in raising soil temperatures and keep weeds from being a problem.           
If using this system to start a summer crop ahead of schedule, it will          
be necessary to remove the cover as temperatures rise.  Cover the               
black plastic with an organic mulch as summer progresses so roots do            
not overheat.  Crops such as lettuce and turnips brought to harvest             
under the tunnel in the spring should yield abundantly and will not             
suffer many of the insect problems of open field raised plants.  For            
example, the fly that lays the root maggot egg simply can't get to the          
plants to do its dirty work.                                                    
                                                                                
The sun pod is a variation of the cold frame.  Passive solar                    
collectors such as barrels painted black and filled with water store            
heat during the day and release it at night to provide a greater                
degree of frost protection than does a standard cold frame.  The solar          
collectors reduce the utilizable space of the frame, but may make               
growing some vegetables throughout the winter a possibility.  When              
used in the spring, such a set up can give warm weather crops such as           
tomatoes and melons a head start of several weeks.                              
                                                                                
Floating row covers are the latest season extending tools of the                
trade.  Several brands of lightweight spunbonded fabrics are available          
to drape over rows and even over entire gardens.  As the plants grow            
they lift the fabric.  While they give some frost protection (about             
four degrees), they are most valuable for letting plants get the most           
out of the early spring sun by providing protection from drying winds           
and by boosting daytime temperatures under the cover.  These fabrics            
provide excellent protection from flying insect pests; imagine a                
wormless broccoli harvest without applying a drop of pesticide.                 
Harvests of warm weather vegetables should be earlier when plants are           
started under a row cover.  Remember to remove the cover to allow               
insect pollination as necessary.  At the end of the season, the row             
covers make convenient blankets to toss over plants when frost is               
predicted.                                                                      
                                                                                
There are many variations of these devices available for purchase or            
for the making.  The novice gardener may want to experiment with a few          
simple cloches or a row cover in order to lengthen the gardening                
season by a few weeks at each end.  In the warmer parts of Virginia,            
the experienced gardener may be able to use a solar pod or insulated            
cold frame to extend the Virginia gardening season to 365 days a year.          
******************                                                              
                                                                                
Azaleas and/or Rhododendrons                                                    
                                                                                
What is the difference between an azalea and a rhododendron?  An                
azalea has five stamens while a rhododendron has ten.  This isn't               
enough of a difference to keep azaleas out of the genus Rhododendron,           
so scientifically speaking, an azalea is a rhododendron.  The common            
usage of the two terms is convenient, though, when considering their            
use in the landscape.                                                           
                                                                                
Azaleas may be deciduous or evergreen and rhododendrons are all                 
evergreen.  Rhododendrons are larger than azaleas, with some exceeding          
20 feet tall at maturity, while azaleas generally range from one and a          
half to eight feet tall.  Along with their smaller stature, azaleas             
also tend to have smaller foliage and flowers than rhododendrons.               
They both require the same conditions and cultural treatment for                
proper growth.                                                                  
                                                                                
Even without their flowers, azaleas and rhododendrons would have a              
place in the landscape.  Their bold, dark green foliage provides an             
interesting texture in summer shrub borders and they perform admirably          
in foundation plantings when given the proper conditions.                       
Rhododendrons may be used as screens and hedges.  Dwarf prostrate               
azaleas provide an unusual and effective ground cover for shady areas.          
 With the two groups varying in size from one and a half to twenty              
feet, it should be possible to select just the size wanted for a                
particular application.                                                         
                                                                                
Choose a new plant when it is in bloom in order to get the exact color          
desired.  Pinks, purples, reds, whites, salmons, and oranges are                
available, and while you may find a vibrant purple that looks stunning          
in the nursery, consider how it will look in its planting site.  If             
the background is a material of conflicting color, white might be a             
better choice.  Blooming season may be anytime from early April                 
through the end of June.  Keep in mind that a plant raised in a warmer          
climate than Virginia's may be in bloom in the nursery earlier than it          
will be the following year in your garden.                                      
                                                                                
Besides looking at the flowers, take a close look at the branches and           
leaves of any plant you are considering.  Leaves should be dark green           
and healthy looking.  Do not purchase plants with dead stems, fungal            
spots on the leaves, or wilting.  Watch for scale insects, mites, and           
mealybugs.  It is easier to avoid these problems at this point than to          
attempt to eradicate them once they are established in your yard.               
                                                                                
These plants require moist, well drained, acid soil and grow best in            
light shade.  Northern and eastern exposures provide protection from            
the hot summer sun which is a bane to azaleas and rhododendrons.  Soil          
pH should be close to 5.5.  If a soil test shows that the pH is too             
high, use sulfur, aluminum sulfate, or iron sulfate before planting to          
adjust it.  Test the soil annually so that additional acidifiers can            
be added as needed.                                                             
                                                                                
Work a large amount of composted organic matter into the planting               
site.  If the soil does not drain well (water poured into a shallow             
hole does not drain away within an hour), plant the shrubs in raised            
beds as neither azaleas nor rhododendrons will tolerate waterlogged             
roots.  Mulch the soil with an organic mulch to protect shallow feeder          
roots from heat or cultivation damage.  Water during dry spells and             
before the ground freezes in the winter.                                        
                                                                                
Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons annually with a preparation for             
acid-loving plants.  Wait until blooms have faded to apply fertilizer           
or vegetative growth may be promoted to such an extent that the                 
flowers are hidden.  Follow the directions on the package.  Organic             
gardeners can use cottonseed meal at the rate of two and a half pounds          
per hundred square feet.  Sprinkle it over the mulch and water it in            
well.  New flower buds are set in late summer, so prune after blooming          
to remove dead branches and faded blooms without removing next year's           
flowers.  Removal of old blooms prevents seed production and helps              
assure plentiful flowering the following spring.                                
                                                                                
Insects don't cause trouble as often as do incorrect cultural                   
practices.  Rhododendrons are not commonly beset by harmful insects.            
The most common azalea pest is azalea lacebug, a small insect that              
sucks sap from the foliage leaving it bleached and silvery looking.             
Careful inspection of the undersides of the leaves will reveal the              
tiny adults and nymphs.  Plants are more susceptible to lacebug                 
infestation when grown in full sun. Several insecticides are available          
to control azalea lacebug; contact your county extension agent for              
specific recommendations.  Follow all label directions carefully.               
                                                                                
(Reviewed by Joe Eakes, Instructor, Horticulture)                               
********************                                                            
                                                                                
Selecting Professional Lawn Services                                            
                                                                                
When money is no object, time sometimes is, and a professional lawn             
service will take care of many of the time consuming chores of                  
landscape maintenance.  With professional help taking care of                   
fertilizing and weeding the lawn, protecting it from insect damage,             
and sometimes even mowing the grass, home gardeners are free to turn            
their attention to other tasks that are more interesting to them.               
Hiring a professional is no reason to neglect learning about lawn               
care, though, for without some knowledge about lawns it will be                 
difficult to select a company that can provide you with good, safe              
service.                                                                        
                                                                                
Your first decision when selecting a lawn care company is whether you           
want lawn care or lawn maintenance.  For general maintenance such as            
mowing and trimming, a neighborhood teenager may be the cheapest                
solution, and with a little initial supervision will probably do the            
job as well as you would yourself.  For fertilizer and pesticide                
application, it pays to hire trained professionals who know when and            
how to apply these chemicals in a manner safe to you, your neighbors,           
your plants, and the environment.                                               
                                                                                
There are national and local lawn care services; the size of the                
company is not important, but the training, reliability, and                    
experience is.  When choosing a service ask for references and then             
review them.  Check with the Better Business Bureau to see if there             
are any outstanding consumer complaints against any companies with              
whom you are considering doing business.                                        
                                                                                
When you are satisfied that the company you are considering is                  
reputable, have the representative come to your house to thoroughly             
discuss the services you require, the services the company can                  
provide, and the prices involved.  Walk together around your yard,              
noting any special problem areas and discussing                                 
how the company can treat them.  Find out what the basic care package           
includes and the cost of additional services.  Check into the                   
fertilizer and pesticide schedule, and find out what chemicals are              
applied.  The representative should be knowledgeable and answer your            
questions in a straightforward, concerned manner.                               
                                                                                
Make sure that the company follows good lawn care procedures.                   
Virginia Tech turf specialists recommend fertilizing bluegrass and              
fescue lawns in the fall; check to see that your lawn care company is           
up to date on this.  Discuss timing of weed control.  They should               
apply preemergent crabgrass control before the dogwoods are in full             
bloom and broadleaf weed control when those weeds are actively                  
growing.  The representative and the workers who perform the lawn care          
should show a healthy respect for and knowledge of the chemicals used.          
Proper application is necessary for proper results and for the safety           
of surrounding plants, neighboring property, and the environment.               
                                                                                
One national lawn service company is addressing homeowner concerns              
over excessive use of pesticides and pesticide drift with alternative           
lawn care programs.  They offer a fertilizer only option, a limited             
pesticide option which involves spraying pesticides only when a                 
problem is evident, and a dry option which uses granular fertilizers            
and pesticides which will minimize drift onto neighboring property.             
Find out if you can obtain similar options from the company you                 
select.  Lawn care services use low pressure sprayers which reduce the          
likelihood of drift, but extra care is never wrong when dealing with            
pesticides.  And, of course, there is no need to apply pesticide to a           
nonexistent problem.                                                            
                                                                                
(Reviewed by Jack Hall, Extension Agronomist)                                   
**************************                                                      
                                                                                
Jack-in-the-Pulpit                                                              
                                                                                
Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) is one of the easiest                  
wildflowers learned by novice hikers.  It is easily recognized because          
of the unusual shape of the flower, a yellow green spadix or flower             
spike (Jack) enclosed in a green hood, or spathe, (the pulpit) which            
has attractive purple stripes running along it.  The flower appears in          
May or June.                                                                    
                                                                                
Though Jack-in-the-Pulpit is a native Virginia plant, the large,                
compound leaves add a touch of the exotic to shady borders.  After the          
flower fades the leaves continue to grow, approaching 12 to 24 inches           
in height.  A bright, red berry cluster ripens in the fall, providing           
a spark of color for the autumn garden.                                         
                                                                                
This hardy perennial prefers moist, acid (pH 5 - 6.5) soil rich in              
organic matter, and requires a partially shady location.  Mulch the             
bed with an organic mulch to conserve water.  When conditions are               
suitable, it will return every spring and may spread rapidly.                   
                                                                                
Jack-in-the-Pulpit is best propagated from seed collected in the fall           
and planted at once in moist, humus-rich soil, either in the permanent          
growing location or in a shaded nursery bed.  For indoor growing,               
stratify the seeds in moist media at less than 40 degrees F. for six            
to twelve weeks.  Germination can take from one to six months, but is           
usually successful.  The plants should reach blooming size by the               
second spring after planting.                                                   
                                                                                
Plants may also be purchased from a nursery or collected from the               
wild.  Collect plants from private land with the permission of the              
owner.  Transplant young plants as soon as they appear in the spring,           
or mark the spot the plants are growing and return in the fall when             
the foliage dies back to dig them then.  When moving growing plants,            
try to remove the entire root system and as much of the surrounding             
soil as possible, and replant the plant as soon as possible.  In the            
fall, the one to two inch corms are simpler to move; plant them                 
approximately three times their depth.  Wear gloves when handling               
corms or plants as some people develop a skin rash after touching the           
plants.  Though Jack-in-the-Pulpit is not endangered, do not remove             
all of the plants from a given colony.  One or two plants will give             
you a start without ravaging the forest.                                        
                                                                                
Jack-in-the-Pulpit plants have the unusual habit of changing sex as             
they grow.  Their sex is related to the size of the plant the previous          
year - small plants have no flower, medium have male flowers, large             
have female flowers, and a few plants will have both sexes of flowers.          
To encourage the production of female flowers and the resulting                 
colorful fruit, keep the soil moist throughout the summer and top               
dress the soil with compost to assure adequate fertility.                       
                                                                                
American Indians boiled and ate the starchy corms of Jack-in-the-               
Pulpit.  Some people may find this romantic, but it is not recom-               
mended, as calcium oxalate found in all parts of the plant cause it to          
be poisonous when raw.  Besides, it is much more interesting in the             
garden than on a dinner plate.                                                  
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
April 1988 Question Box                                                         
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Ellen M. Silva, Horticulture                      
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension                        
Specialist Consumer Horticulture, using material provided by John               
Arbogast, Roanoke City Extension Agent, along with contributions                
and review by members of the Departments of Horticulture,                       
Agronomy, Entomology, and Plant Pathology, Physiology, and Weed                 
Science.  The Virginia Gardener Question Box has been developed                 
for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper features.                        
                                                                                
Male Asparagus Varieties                             22 lines                   
Proper Planting of Tree Peonies                      18 lines                   
Anthracnose on Burning Bushes                        46 lines                   
Treating Mildew on Roses                             27 lines                   
Copious Sap Flow from Pruned Dogwoods                23 lines                   
Winter Injury on Privet                              13 lines                   
Weeds in Ivy                                         18 lines                   
Winter Damage (sun and wind burn) on English Ivy     15 lines                   
Growing Cabbage for Winter Storage                   29 lines                   
Decline of Woody Ornamentals Caused by Plastic Mulch 21 lines                   
Splitting Sweet Cherries                             10 lines                   
Mimosa Webworm                                       20 lines                   
Winter Damage on Spreading Juniper                   15 lines                   
Use of Salt to Weed Asparagus                        13 lines                   
Winter Damage to Rhododendron Buds                   14 lines                   
Treated Wood for the Home Garden                     18 lines                   
*************************                                                       
                                                                                
I have recently heard about some new all-male asparagus varieties               
that are supposed to outproduce other varieties.  Please tell me                
more about them.                                                                
                                                                                
Two recent introductions, `Greenwich' and `Jersey Giant', are                   
all-male varieties that appear on the list of Vegetable Varieties               
Recommended for Virginia, Extension Publication 426-480.  They                  
are both F1 hybrids which are produced by crossing a vigorous                   
female plant with a supermale pollen source.  The supermale                     
pollen produces all male offspring.                                             
                                                                                
These varieties are superior for several reasons.  They exhibit                 
hybrid vigor; `Jersey Giant' and `Greenwich' are highly resistant               
to rust disease and tolerant of fusarium root and crown rot.                    
They are both heavy yielders of stalks with greater diameter than               
female plants.                                                                  
                                                                                
Having all male plants in an asparagus bed carries several other                
advantages.  Male plants generally have higher yields than female               
plants because none of their energy is diverted to producing                    
seed.  With no seed produced in the bed, volunteer seedlings,                   
which usually are of lower quality than the parent plant and                    
compete for moisture and nutrients, are eliminated.                             
                                                                                
These varieties should be available this spring from various                    
retail and mail order nurseries.  One source for `Jersey Giant'                 
is Nourse Farms, R.F.D. Box 485, South Deerfield, MA 01373.                     
*****************                                                               
                                                                                
I planted a tree peony last year and the ten inch stem had a                    
sharp bend in it that I thought would correct itself.  It didn't                
and later broke off at the ground.  This spring four shoots came                
up. Should I cut three of them off, leaving one, or leave all and               
forget the tree effect, letting the plant revert to being a bush?               
                                                                                
Unlike herbaceous peonies which must be planted with the crown                  
between one and two inches below the soil surface, tree peonies                 
should be planted quite deeply.  They are propagated by grafting                
a scion of the desired variety onto herbaceous peony rootstock.                 
The sharp bend you observed on the stem of your plant was                       
probably the graft union, and should have been planted about four               
inches below the soil line to allow the scion to send out its own               
roots.  Since the stem broke off at that point, the new shoots                  
are undoubtedly from the rootstock, not the desired variety.  You               
can let them grow and see if you like the resulting peony, but it               
will not be a tree peony.                                                       
*********************                                                           
                                                                                
I planted burning bushes (Euonymus alata `Compacta') 2 years ago                
in a location that receives sun for about half the day.  The                    
plants grew well the first year and until midsummer of last year                
when individual leaves became yellow and spotted and dropped                    
off; by early September the bushes were bare.  It was a rather                  
damp period when the problem first appeared and I suspected a                   
fungus infection since I could find no insects.  Please give your               
diagnosis and suggestions for prevention/cure.                                  
                                                                                
Leaf spotting and drop are symptomatic  of many conditions such                 
as fungal disease, environmental stress, or insect infestation.                 
Take a sample of leaves and stems showing fresh symptoms to a                   
garden center or your county cooperative extension service for an               
accurate diagnosis.                                                             
                                                                                
Anthracnose scab is one possible cause of your problem.  It                     
causes brown lesions (spots) on the leaves and may be more                      
prevalent in warm, wet periods.  Treat for scab by removing                     
diseased leaves as they fall.  When irrigation is necessary,                    
water the plants at their base so that the foliage is not wetted.               
A foliar fungicide labelled for control of anthracnose scab on                  
euonymus can be applied when warm, wet conditions favor scab                    
development.  Consult your county extension agent for specific                  
recommendations, and follow label directions carefully.  Avoid                  
unnecessary or ineffective spraying by getting a positive                       
identification of your problem before using any chemical control.               
(Reviewed by Robert Lambe, Extension Plant Pathologist)                         
**********************                                                          
                                                                                
I have used phaltan fungicide to treat mildew on roses for some                 
time, but it hasn't worked for me.  What do you suggest?                        
                                                                                
According to the "1986-87 Pest Management Guide for Home                        
Ornamental Plants" from Virginia Tech and Virginia State                        
Universities, the recommended fungicides for powdery mildew on                  
roses include Benlate (also known as benomyl), Milban, Zyban, and               
Triforine (also known as funginex).                                             
                                                                                
Start applications in the spring as leaves expand.  For best                    
control, repeat the treatment at the label recommended interval                 
throughout the season.  If infection has already occurred,                      
control will be difficult; if you routinely have a mildew                       
problem, start spraying before you notice mildew and continue the               
spray program until the first frost.                                            
                                                                                
Fungus infections thrive in areas where air circulates poorly, so               
give roses plenty of room.  Plant bushes several feet from                      
buildings or walls and prune to remove excessive growth.  Remove                
fallen leaves and dispose of them to prevent spread of disease.                 
                                                                                
If you find that powdery mildew and other rose diseases are                     
taking a great deal of time for control, consider the many                      
disease resistant varieties when selecting new roses for your                   
landscape.                                                                      
(Reviewed by Robert Lambe, Extension Plant Pathologist)                         
*******************                                                             
                                                                                
We pruned some limbs and parts of branches from an old dogwood                  
tree recently and since then a liquid has been running from some                
of the cuts.  Did we do something that has damaged the dogwood?                 
We tried to stop the flow by applying pruning paint, but it                     
didn't stick well, and the liquid continued to run out.  What                   
should we do?                                                                   
                                                                                
The liquid running from the cut areas on your dogwood is tree                   
sap.  This flow results when the tree is pruned after mild                      
weather in mid to late winter.  The loss of sap is a natural                    
occurrence and should not weaken the tree.                                      
                                                                                
When pruning is needed, prevent sap flow by pruning after                       
flowering, when the tree is in full leaf.  Another advantage of                 
postponing pruning is that the floral display for the year is not               
reduced.                                                                        
                                                                                
Do not apply pruning paint to the cuts.  Research has shown that                
applying pruning paint over a properly made, smooth cut is mainly               
cosmetic in value, and may actually harm the plant by trapping                  
moisture and creating an ideal environment for fungal disease.                  
As you discovered, pruning paint will not stop the flow of sap.                 
***********************                                                         
                                                                                
We recently moved into a new home that has a planting of privet                 
bushes.  The bushes are about six feet tall, but most of each                   
bush is dead.  There is some live growth at the bases of the                    
plants.  What caused this?  Will the bushes recover?                            
                                                                                
It sounds like your privet suffered severe winter damage in the                 
last few years.  The new growth may be weak but with a little                   
care, it should live.  Remove all dead wood and fertilize the                   
plants in the spring using a general purpose garden fertilizer                  
according to package directions.  Water the plants throughout the               
year when drought conditions exist.  Privet is a fast grower, and               
with this extra care will quickly regain its former size.                       
***********************                                                         
                                                                                
How can I control weeds in my ivy bed?                                          
                                                                                
The first step in controlling weeds in ivy is to identify the                   
weeds.  If grasses are causing the trouble, there are herbicides                
that can be applied to the entire bed without damaging the ivy.                 
Products labelled for use as a grass killer around ornamental                   
plants should do the job.  Consult your county extension agent                  
for specific recommendations, and, as always, follow the label                  
directions carefully.                                                           
                                                                                
Chemical weed control is not possible when ivy is infested with                 
broadleaf weeds because the herbicide would kill the ivy as well.               
Remove these weeds by hand.  This is also an alternative to                     
consider when dealing with grassy weeds.  It may take more time                 
and effort than chemical controls, but it will be safer.  Apply                 
three to four inches of an organic mulch to prevent regrowth of                 
weeds until the ivy spreads enough to crowd out competitors.                    
***********************                                                         
                                                                                
I have English ivy covering a large bank.  Every winter the                     
leaves turn brown and do not green up again until late spring.                  
This did not happen to the English ivy I had in Cleveland, Ohio.                
Is there something I can do to prevent this from happening here?                
                                                                                
English ivy can develop winter burn when exposed to full sun and                
drying winds in the winter.  Though the growing site may be shady               
in the summer, the fall of deciduous leaves may leave the ivy                   
fully exposed to winter sun.  Your Cleveland ivy may have been                  
shaded throughout the year, or the heavier Cleveland snow cover                 
may have provided protection from the sun and wind.   Provide                   
shade and wind protection with a light mulch such as branches                   
from discarded Christmas trees or a covering of spunbonded garden               
fabric.                                                                         
********************                                                            
                                                                                
How should I go about growing cabbage for winter use?  I have                   
successfully grown it for fresh use but am uncertain how to raise               
storage cabbage.                                                                
                                                                                
As with most vegetables, the less time cabbage spends in storage,               
the better the quality, so don't rush seedlings intended for                    
winter use into the ground in early spring.  Wait until July to                 
plant so that harvest comes in the fall.  Seedlings may not be                  
available at garden centers in midsummer so include cabbage seeds               
in your early spring seed orders and grow your own.                             
                                                                                
Start the seed in mid-June in a short nursery row in the garden,                
covering it with vermiculite, compost, or a similar material to                 
ensure good germination.   If the space is available, you can sow               
the seed directly in the final growing location.  Grow as for                   
early cabbage, with an extra eye on water needs as summer                       
progresses.  Take extra care to prevent insect infestation as                   
insects will continue to do damage after cabbage is put into                    
storage.                                                                        
                                                                                
Harvest storage cabbage when heads are crisp and solid, slightly                
before full maturity.  Do not store heads that are loosely                      
formed, bruised or damaged, or that show any signs of disease.                  
Pull the plants up by the roots, trim off loose outer leaves, and               
store them on shelves or hang them by their roots in a cool,                    
humid place (32 to 40 degrees F, 90% humidity).  Beware that the                
cabbage smell is strong in storage; you may want to keep them in                
a cool garage rather than the house.                                            
*******************                                                             
                                                                                
We have plastic covered by wood bark as a mulch around some                     
Japanese hollies and azaleas.  Last summer two of the plants died               
and the others don't look good.  Should we remove the mulch and                 
the plastic?                                                                    
                                                                                
Remove the plastic and use only the organic mulch.  Plastic does                
a good job controlling weeds, but as it blocks weed growth it                   
also blocks air and moisture movement critical to the health of                 
the plants.  Root rot and death can occur in soil that is poorly                
aerated and either too wet or too dry.                                          
                                                                                
An organic mulch such as pine bark allows moisture and air to                   
reach the soil and has the side benefit of releasing nutrients as               
it decays.  Apply it three or four inches deep to control weeds.                
                                                                                
Landscape fabric and porous plastic are recently developed                      
alternatives to traditional plastic mulch.  Both are porous and                 
allow air and water to penetrate to the soil, yet they block the                
growth of weeds.  A thin layer (one inch) of organic mulch can be               
applied on top of these materials to improve appearance.                        
***********************                                                         
                                                                                
I have a large cherry tree in my yard that usually bears loads of               
sweet cherries.  Unfortunately, the birds eat them before we get                
a chance to pick them.  How can we solve this problem?                          
                                                                                
Bird netting is the best bird control method for homeowners.  It                
is available at garden centers and in garden catalogs.  Covering                
a large tree is difficult.  The netting must be wrapped                         
completely around the branches as birds will find their way                     
through any opening.  Dwarf and semi-dwarf trees are easier to                  
protect than standard trees.  Consider selecting one of these                   
dwarf types for this reason if you expand your cherry orchard.                  
*****************                                                               
                                                                                
I have a Sunburst locust tree in my lawn.  Each year the tree is                
beautiful as the new leaves appear in the spring, but around                    
mid-summer something weaves the leaves together and they turn                   
brown.  Eventually, the whole tree is affected.  What can I do to               
prevent this?                                                                   
                                                                                
This sounds like the typical damage of the caterpillar of the                   
mimosa webworm.  This pest frequently feeds on and damages mimosa               
trees.  Honey locusts are also favorite feeding sites.                          
                                                                                
Prevent severe mimosa webworm damage on your Sunburst honey                     
locust tree this summer by spraying the foliage of the tree with                
diazinon or another insecticide labelled for control of webworms                
on locusts.  Start treatments as soon as you notice any damage,                 
usually in late June or early July.  Repeat the spraying in two                 
weeks if more damage is evident.  Consult your county extension                 
agent for specific pesticide recommendations, and follow label                  
directions carefully.                                                           
(Reviewed by John Weidhaas, Extension Entomologist)                             
*****************                                                               
                                                                                
What was once a healthy planting of spreading juniper now has a                 
number of brown tips and branches this spring.  What caused this?               
How can I cure it?                                                              
                                                                                
The injury was probably caused by either winter desiccation                     
(drying) or ice damage.  Drying winds can burn tips of branches,                
and the accumulation of ice and heavy snow on branches can break                
twigs.  Damage that occurred early in winter may not be obvious                 
until mild weather arrives.  To correct the condition, simply                   
prune out the damaged tips with hand pruners.  Fertilize the                    
shrubs this spring with a general garden fertilizer for                         
ornamental plants.  Keep the plants well watered during summer                  
dry spells, and water them deeply before the soil freezes in late               
autumn.                                                                         
******************                                                              
                                                                                
My neighbor told me I can prevent weeds in my asparagus bed by                  
sprinkling salt on it.  Is this true?                                           
                                                                                
Salting an asparagus bed is an old practice that is no longer                   
recommended.  Salt kills by drawing moisture out of plant roots                 
and other plant tissues it contacts.  Asparagus happens to be                   
quite a bit more tolerant of salt than other plants, so the weeds               
usually die before the asparagus is harmed.  Over the years,                    
however, salt levels in the soil can build up to a point where                  
the asparagus is also harmed.  Furthermore, salty soil may make                 
it difficult to use the land for other crops should a change be                 
desired.                                                                        
********************                                                            
                                                                                
What will prevent the buds on a rhododendron from turning brown                 
before blooming?  Mine has been healthy and beautiful until last                
spring when the buds all turned brown.  I do not think it was                   
winter damage as they remained green until it was time for bloom.               
                                                                                
If the leaves and stems beneath the buds remained healthy, it is                
likely that the problem is indeed winter damage.  Winter injury                 
can result in inner browning of the bud which then gradually                    
spreads until the entire bud is brown.  Protect your shrub this                 
coming winter with a burlap wind screen, and continue to water as               
needed whenever the soil is not frozen.  Consider planting a                    
hardier evergreen to the windward side of the rhododendron to                   
afford it some attractive protection from the wind.                             
********************                                                            
                                                                                
What type of treated wood can I use in the garden without causing               
damage to my plants or myself?                                                  
                                                                                
According to Virginia Tech Forestry Products specialists, the                   
best wood for garden construction is wood pressure treated with                 
chromated copper arsenate (CCA).  It will not damage plants and                 
will last many years in the garden.  When using it for garden                   
seating, such as in picnic tables, check the surface for CCA salt               
residues, which will look like a dusting of white crystals.  If                 
they are present, wash the wood off before using it.                            
                                                                                
If you want to use wood on a short term basis, perhaps for a year               
or so in a flower box, plain untreated pine is the most                         
inexpensive wood to use.  Structures lined with plastic and                     
having proper drainage holes will last somewhat longer than                     
unprotected pine, but not as long as pressure treated wood.                     
(Information provided by Fred Lamb, Extension Specialist, Wood                  
Products)                                                                       
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
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Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Research Abstracts - March 1988                                                 
                                                                                
The following research abstracts were prepared by Ellen M. Silva,               
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension                        
Specialist.  They are to assist agents in keeping up to date on                 
recent research in consumer horticulture.  Copies of the original               
articles including lists of varieties and scientific names of                   
plants used in the studies are available from the Consumer                      
Horticulture office.  Send requests on computer to PDRELF.                      
                                                                                
Establishment Rates for Different Bareroot                                      
     Grades of Trees                            86 lines                        
Bolting Differences Among Nine Leaf                                             
     Lettuce Cultivars                          71 lines                        
`Greenwich', a Male Asparagus Hybrid            42 lines                        
Effect of Runner Removal on Strawberry                                          
     Fruiting Response                          75 lines                        
Excerpts From Published Abstracts -             56 lines                        
     Comparison of a Commercial Fertilizer                                      
          with Several Fish Waste Products                                      
          Applied to Field-grown Vegetables                                     
     Fertilizer Placement Effects on Growth                                     
          Responses and Nutrient Uptake of                                      
          Several Vegetable Crops                                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
*******************                                                             
                                                                                
ESTABLISHMENT RATES FOR DIFFERENT BAREROOT GRADES OF TREES                      
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture                                              
                                                                                
Larger grades of shade trees cost more and are more difficult to                
plant but offer more immediate landscape effects than do smaller                
grades.  This is important to  homeowners who wish to beautify                  
their homes without exceeding their budgets.  Information on how                
quickly smaller grades can catch up with larger grades can help                 
these homeowners decide what size tree to plant.  Differences in                
rates of survival of different grade trees will also be relevant                
to this decision, as will conditions where the trees are to be                  
planted.  Various species will differ in their ability to recover               
from transplanting at different sizes, further influencing a                    
homeowner's decision.                                                           
                                                                                
Conclusions                                                                     
                                                                                
The five smallest grades of green ash showed the greatest                       
percentage increase in trunk diameter at the end of three years,                
but none of the smaller grades had completely caught up with the                
larger grades.                                                                  
                                                                                
100% of the green ash trees planted in a clean cultivated ground                
survived, while smaller grades showed lower survival when planted               
in high grass and mulched with wood chips.                                      
                                                                                
All grades of Norway maple showed 100% survival under clean                     
cultivation.  None of the grades showed much increase in growth                 
the first year while the smaller grades showed a much greater                   
increase than the larger grades during the second year.                         
                                                                                
Linden trees showed poor transplant survival and growth rates for               
both years under clean cultivation.  Smaller grades showed better               
survival than larger grades.                                                    
                                                                                
Abstract                                                                        
                                                                                
Five trees of each of eleven grades of green ash, from 3' whips                 
to 2" bareroot and 2" B&B were planted at each of two locations.                
One group was planted in clean cultivated soil, while one was                   
planted in high grass and mulched with wood chips to cover a 4'                 
to 6' diameter around the trunk.  No supplemental watering or                   
fertilizing was done in either location.                                        
                                                                                
Three grades (6' and 7' branched and 1 1/2" diam.) of linden and                
four grades (4' and 6' whips and 1" and 1 1/4" diameter) of                     
Norway maple were grown under clean cultivation for two years.                  
                                                                                
The five smallest grades of green ash showed the greatest                       
percentage increase in growth at both locations.  Despite the                   
higher growth rates, none of the smaller grades had caught up                   
with the larger grades in size at the end of the third season.                  
Survival was unaffected by grade at the clean cultivated site,                  
with all grades showing 100% survival.  Smaller grades showed                   
much lower survival at the grassy site.  The authors note that                  
the smaller grades were more susceptible to damage by maintenance               
equipment and stress from grass competition.                                    
                                                                                
All grades showed greater growth under clean cultivation, and                   
some of the small grades under clean cultivation surpassed some                 
of the larger grades planted in grass.  For example, the average                
end size for 3' whips planted under clean cultivation was a 1.6"                
trunk diameter while the average for 8' branched trees a 1.4"                   
trunk diameter.                                                                 
                                                                                
100% of all grades of Norway maples survived two growing seasons,               
and the two whip grades showed the greatest percentage trunk                    
diameter increase.  The lindens had poor transplant survival and                
growth rates for all grades, with a higher survival and growth                  
rates for the whip grades.                                                      
                                                                                
The authors commented that though the study was limited in scope,               
it does point out several factors to be considered in choosing                  
tree grades for various landscape situations.  They point out                   
that while larger grades may offer instant landscape effects,                   
smaller grades may catch up soon enough to satisfy the gardener.                
Survival rates of different grades within a species or cultivar                 
must also be considered, balancing the generally quicker trans-                 
plant recovery of smaller grades with their greater chances of                  
damage from maintenance equipment and vandals.                                  
                                                                                
Reference: Litzow, Margaret and Harold Pellett. Establishment                   
Rates for Different Bareroot Grades of Trees. 1982. Journal of                  
Arboriculture 8(10): 264-266.                                                   
********************                                                            
                                                                                
BOLTING DIFFERENCES AMONG NINE LEAF LETTUCE CULTIVARS                           
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture                                              
                                                                                
Bolting spells the end of the harvest season for lettuce in the                 
home garden.  The leaves become bitter in taste and the seed-                   
stalks elongate.  Seed companies often refer to differences in                  
bolting habits of various cultivars in their advertisements, but                
scientific studies of these claims are not readily available.                   
Information on resistance to bolting of various cultivars would                 
be valuable to the gardener desiring the longest possible lettuce               
harvest.                                                                        
                                                                                
Conclusions                                                                     
                                                                                
There are significant differences in the tendency to bolt among                 
various leaf lettuce cultivars.  Of the nine cultivars tested,                  
`Black Seeded Simpson' and `Ruby' bolted earliest.                              
                                                                                
Bolting is dependent upon environmental factors as well as                      
genetic factors.                                                                
                                                                                
Bolting appears to occur at a later age for fall planted lettuce                
than for spring planted lettuce.                                                
                                                                                
Comparisons of varieties grown one season to different varieties                
grown another season are not valid.                                             
                                                                                
Abstract                                                                        
                                                                                
Five red-leaf cultivars (Deep Red, Prizehead, Redhead, Red Salad                
Bowl, and Ruby) and four green-leaf cultivars (Grand Rapids TBR,                
Salad Bowl, Black Seeded Simpson, and Waldmann's Green) of leaf                 
lettuce were grown in Spring 1984, Fall 1984, and Spring 1985.                  
Plots were established with 3 to 4 week old greenhouse grown                    
transplants and were treated with pronamide for weed control and                
with malathion and a Bacillus thuringiensis Berliner product for                
insect control.  Plots were fertilized and sprinkler irrigated as               
necessary.                                                                      
                                                                                
The plots were checked periodically for bolted plants which were                
marked but not removed so as not to disturb the spacing in the                  
beds.  Dates on which bolting was observed and the number of                    
bolted plants in each plot were recorded.  Bolting was indicated                
by stem elongation and appearance of the floral apex.                           
                                                                                
In Spring 1984 `Black Seeded Simpson' and `Ruby' bolted signifi-                
cantly earlier than the other cultivars.  All nine cultivars had                
bolted by 53 days after transplanting.                                          
                                                                                
`Black Seeded Simpson' and `Ruby' also bolted significantly                     
earlier in Fall 1984.  100% and 81% respectively of these plants                
had bolted before any cultivar besides `Waldmann's Green' (of                   
which 9.4% of the plants had bolted) showed any signs of bolting.               
All of the plants showed some bolting (from 5.8% to 100%) by 61                 
days after planting.                                                            
                                                                                
Spring 1985 brought unusually high field temperatures for several               
days, which may explain the much earlier signs of bolting in all                
of the cultivars.  By 37 days after planting, bolting was evident               
in 6 of the 9 cultivars.  Again, `Black Seeded Simpson' and                     
`Ruby' were among the first to bolt, although they were not                     
signficantly different from several other cultivars.  `Deep Red',               
Salad Bowl' and `Prizehead' were the only cultivars that did not                
exhibit bolting at 37 days after transplanting, though they had                 
also started to bolt by 42 days after transplanting.                            
                                                                                
Reference:  Kahn, Brian A. and Dennis F. Magnello. 1986. Bolting                
Differences Among Nine Leaf Lettuce Cultivars. HortScience                      
21(5):1231-1232.                                                                
*******************                                                             
                                                                                
VARIETY INTRODUCTION - `GREENWICH', A MALE ASPARAGUS HYBRID                     
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture                                              
                                                                                
Seed production in asparagus has little value to the home                       
gardener.  Any seeds resulting from random pollination are likely               
to produce plants with lower rust resistance and yield, even when               
selected from vigorous females.  Furthermore, volunteer seedlings               
behave as weeds in the cutting bed.  Another problem attendant to               
seed production in asparagus is the diversion of photosynthate to               
the seed instead of to the root, thus reducing the vigor and                    
spear yield of the female plants.                                               
                                                                                
The objective of the researchers introducing this variety was to                
develop an all-male asparagus hybrid.  In addition to avoiding                  
the above problems, male plants produce more spear yield and                    
outlive females.  Though males generally have smaller spears than               
female plants of the same cultivar, the researchers selected a                  
male hybrid, `Greenwich', which produces a much larger yield of                 
jumbo spears than `Mary Washington' or `Rutgers Beacon'.                        
                                                                                
Description                                                                     
                                                                                
`Greenwich' resulted from a cross of a vigorous and dark green                  
plant in a 35-year-old commercial field of `Mary Washington' and                
a supermale plant homogametic for the male gene.  `Greenwich' is                
a male asparagus hybrid with better resistance to rust and better               
tolerance to root rot and stem and crown rot than `Mary Washing-                
ton'.  Yield of marketable spears greatly exceeded that of `Mary                
Washington' or `Mary Washington' selections at 7 out of 8 widely                
separated experimental sites.  At the remaining site, yield was                 
essentially equal.  Jumbo spear yield was compared at 3 sites and               
was 2 to 4 times higher for `Greenwich' than for `Mary                          
Washington'.                                                                    
                                                                                
Note:  `Greenwich' is accompanied by another hybrid asparagus,                  
`Jersey Giant', on the Vegetables Recommended for Virginia list,                
Extension Publication 426-480.                                                  
                                                                                
Reference: Ellison, J.H. and J.J. Kinelski.  1986. `Greenwich', a               
Male Asparagus Hybrid. HortScience 21(5):1249.                                  
*****************                                                               
                                                                                
EFFECT OF RUNNER REMOVAL ON STRAWBERRY FRUITING RESPONSE                        
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture                                              
                                                                                
Several cultural systems are recommended for commercial as well                 
as home production of strawberries.  While this study was geared                
toward the commercial use of the annual hill cultural system, its               
results are relevant to the home gardener who is using the same                 
system.  Runner removal, a labor intensive practice, is recom-                  
mended for the production of large berries when using the annual                
hill system.   The home gardener may be willing to sacrifice                    
large berries for small ones that require less work, or may want                
to choose a variety whose berry size will not be affected by                    
removing or leaving runners.                                                    
                                                                                
Conclusions                                                                     
                                                                                
Removal of runners every two weeks from a variety known to be a                 
prolific runner producer (vigorous runnering) resulted in larger                
marketable yields of berries in both seasons of the study.                      
Removal of runners once a month does not improve yields in this                 
variety.                                                                        
                                                                                
Yields of a low producer of runners (shy runnering) were unaf-                  
fected by removal of runners.                                                   
                                                                                
Marketable yields ,when lower, were reduced because of a higher                 
percentage production of fruit which were not of market size.                   
Home growers may find the smaller fruit acceptable.                             
                                                                                
Note:  This research was performed in Florida, where the culture                
of strawberries is markedly different from Virginia practices.                  
While it indicates that a variety that is a vigorous runnering                  
variety benefited from runner removal and that a shy runnering                  
variety was not affected by runner removal, those results may                   
differ under Virginia conditions.  Virginia Tech recommends the                 
everbearing cultivars for use in the hill system in Virginia,                   
rather than Junebearing types as were used in this study.  When                 
growing Junebearers in Virginia, removal of flower blossoms for                 
the first year is recommended to encourage vegetative growth.                   
This is drastically different from the Florida practice of                      
harvesting the first year.  For those interested in exploring                   
various pruning methods within the constraints of Virginia's                    
climate, some recommended varieties include `Tribute' and                       
`Tristar' (everbearers), `Scott' and `Redchief' (vigorous                       
runnering Junebearers), and `Darrow' and `Jerseybelle' (shy                     
runnering Junebearers).                                                         
                                                                                
Abstract                                                                        
                                                                                
Strawberries were grown for 2 seasons in Florida winter fruiting                
trials using the annual hill cultural sustem.  `Tufts', a                       
prolific producer of runners, and `Dover', a moderate to low                    
producer of runners, were evaluated using five treatments.                      
Runners were removed twice monthly, monthly, not at all, or used                
as resets in the first or second seasons.  The fields were                      
fumigated before planting, and fertilized before the application                
of black polyethylene mulch.  Fruit were harvested, graded,                     
counted, weighed, and evaluated for defects twice a week through-               
out the harvest season.  Fruit weighing less than 10 grams or 2/5               
of an ounce were considered culls and discarded.                                
                                                                                
The removal of runners twice monthly increased early marketable                 
fruit yields for `Tufts' each season and increased total yield                  
for `Tufts' the second season.  Yields for Dover were not                       
affected by runner removal.  The authors believe that the                       
retention of runners for greater than two weeks coupled with the                
energy drain of greater runner production resulted in the                       
decreased yields for `Tufts' when runners were not removed twice                
monthly.                                                                        
                                                                                
Reference: Albregts, E.E. and C. M. Howard. 1986. Effect of                     
Runner Removal on Strawberry Fruiting Response. HortScience                     
21(1):97-98.                                                                    
***************                                                                 
                                                                                
EXCERPTS FROM PUBLISHED ABSTRACTS                                               
                                                                                
 --Excerpts from published abstracts from the 84th ASHS Annual                  
Meeting and 34th ISTH Annual Congress held 6-12 November 1987 in                
Orlando, Florida.  Write directly to the authors for additional                 
information.                                                                    
                                                                                
COMPARISON OF A COMMERCIAL FERTILIZER WITH SEVERAL FISH WASTE                   
PRODUCTS APPLIED TO FIELD-GROWN VEGETABLES                                      
                                                                                
Roger Blatt, Agricultural Centre, Kentville, Nova Scotia, Canada,               
B4N 1J5                                                                         
                                                                                
Results from four growing seasons over two different soil types                 
have indicated that marketable yields from transplanted broccoli,               
cauliflower, cabbage and lettuce receiving a pelletted fish                     
silage can be equal to yields from plants receiving a commercial                
fertilizer, provided that each material is applied at a similar                 
rate of nitrogen before planting.  Experiments have dealt with                  
the best form of fish silage (powder, pellet, liquid) to apply,                 
method of application and nitrogen rate.  Generally, the pelleted               
form of the dry fish silage offered the greatest accuracy of                    
application; however, the liquid form was more cost competitive                 
when compared with 17-17-17.  A single preplant application                     
supplying all the required nitrogen was more effective and                      
practical when compared with a split application.  In one season                
broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower plants                      
receiving a preplant application of 100 kg N/ha as liquid fish                  
silage produced marketable yields equal to plants receiving fish                
bone meal applied as a split treatment of 100 kg N/ha preplant                  
plus 50 kg N/ha as a sidedress.                                                 
                                                                                
FERTILIZER PLACEMENT EFFECTS ON GROWTH RESPONSES AND NUTRIENT                   
UPTAKE OF SEVERAL VEGETABLE CROPS                                               
C.B. Smith, K. T. Demchak, and P.A. Ferretti, Department of                     
Horticulture, The Pennsylvania State University, University Park,               
PA  16802                                                                       
                                                                                
Fertilizer placement was studied in an extensive series of                      
experiments with 4 crops, each at 4-9 production sites in                       
Pennsylvania during 1981-3.  Treatments were 1,2, or 4 increments               
of fertilizer broadcast, banded, broadcast/banded, or banded/-                  
sidedressed and a check.  Fertilizer applied was NP, each at 28                 
kg/ha (sweet corn and snapbeans or NPK, each at 56 kg/ha (tomato                
and cabbage) as urea, triple superphosphate and muriate of                      
potash.  A single band 2" to the side of seed and 2" deep (sweet                
corn and snapbeans) or double bands 4" to each side of plants and               
4" deep (tomatoes and cabbage) were applied.  Growth responses                  
were similar when single increments were broadcast or banded.                   
With double increments, banding or combinations including banding               
yielded higher than double and at least equal to quadruple                      
increments broadcast.  Leaf N and K were variable with banding                  
and broadcasting.  Leaf P was enhanced by banding double                        
increments except with sweet corn.  Leaf Ca and Mg were increased               
by banding with sweet corn and snapbeans.  Banding resulted in                  
consistently higher leaf Mn with all crops.                                     
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
March 1988  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                  
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Ellen M. Silva, Horticulture Extension            
Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist Consumer              
Horticulture, using material provided by John Arbogast, Roanoke City            
Extension Agent.  The Virginia Gardener Question Box has been                   
developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper features.              
                                                                                
Peachtree Borer                                          48 lines               
Running or Ground Cedar                                  12 lines               
Pruning Rose Bushes                                      23 lines               
Adverse Effects of Growing Strawberries in Asparagus     18 lines               
Gumpo Azaleas and Other Spring-flowering Shrubs for Sun  17 lines               
Squirrel Deterrents                                      30 lines               
Earthworms                                               22 lines               
Leaf Tip-burn in Pothos House Plants                     39 lines               
Combining Volck Oil with Lime-Sulfur                     17 lines               
Root-feeding vs. Surface Feeding                         11 lines               
Acid Rain on the Lawn                                    22 lines               
Paving High Traffic Lawn Areas                           14 lines               
Pachysandra                                              23 lines               
                                                                                
******************                                                              
                                                                                
What causes a jelly-like substance to gather around the base of my              
peach and plum trees?                                                           
                                                                                
The gummy, jelly-like mass you find on the trunk of a peach or plum             
tree near the soil line might be caused by a worm-like insect that is           
the larval stage of the either the peachtree borer or the lesser                
peachtree borer.  The peachtree borer attacks the trunk of the tree             
and the lesser peachtree borer feeds in the scaffolding branches.  It           
is also possible that the deposits oozed out naturally from bark                
cracking or mechanical injury locations.  When gummy sap is mixed with          
sawdust-like particles it is evidence of borer infestation. If the              
gummy material is clear, without any signs of sawdust in it, the bark           
may have cracked for some unrelated reason.                                     
                                                                                
Small mechanical injuries require no treatment.  However, if the                
injury is recent you may want to spray the wound with a fungicide such          
as captan, which will prevent fungal infection while the tree heals.            
Take precautions to avoid further mechanical injury.  If you have been          
nicking the tree with the lawn mower, remove the turf from around the           
trunk and apply a mulch to prevent regrowth.                                    
                                                                                
The insecticide endosulfan, sold as Thiodan or Thiogard, is                     
recommended for peachtree borer sprays.  The treatments must be timed           
properly for adequate control.  The lesser peachtree borer produces             
two generations of offspring in Virginia.  Spray for the first in late          
May, covering the scaffolding branches thoroughly.  When applying               
pesticides follow the label carefully.  Immediately after harvest               
apply the insecticide to the trunks and large limbs to control the              
second generation of lesser peachtree borer and the single generation           
of peachtree borer.  CAUTION: Do not spray any fruit itself with this           
chemical.  Also, do not apply within 21 days of harvest.                        
                                                                                
An alternative control for the peachtree borer is the use of PDB                
(paradichlorobenzene) moth crystal.  This procedure will not control            
the lesser peachtree borer.  In late summer or the fall, remove grass           
and weeds from the base of the tree for a distance of 1 foot.  Scatter          
PDB crystals in a band 1 to 2 inches wide, at least 2 inches from the           
tree trunk.  Use  1/2 ounce for trees under 3 years, 3/4 oz. for trees          
3 to 6 years, and 1 and 1/2 oz. for trees over 6 years old. Cover the           
tree base and crystals  with 4 to 6 shovelfuls of soil packed down              
with the shovel. Crystals placed against the tree may cause injury.             
Remove the crystals and the mound of soil from around the trunk after           
about 2 weeks, to avoid injury to the tree.                                     
                                                                                
Borers feed throughout the winter and spring, so if you think your              
trees are currently infested, you can try to kill individual borers by          
inserting a flexible wire into their holes.                                     
**************                                                                  
                                                                                
What is the botanical name for what I have always known as running              
cedar?  How is it propagated?                                                   
                                                                                
The botanical name of the plant you're asking about is Lycopodium               
complanatum. It is also known as ground cedar and is one of the club            
mosses.  This plant is propagated by cuttings, as it produces spores            
rather than seeds.                                                              
                                                                                
If you would like to grow it, you may collect plants from the wild as           
it is not an endangered species, though you will need the permission            
of the landowner.  It requires a moist, shady location with acid soil.          
****************                                                                
                                                                                
Are rose bushes supposed to be cut back?  How new plants started?               
                                                                                
Bush type roses should be pruned annually in the late winter or early           
spring just as the buds are swelling.  There are several important              
jobs in pruning a bush type rose.                                               
   *  Remove dead, diseased, or damaged cane parts.                             
   *  Cut out thin or weak growth made during the preceding                     
summer, especially the growth directed toward the center of the bush.           
   *  Thin out any stronger side branches remaining to give room  for           
vigorous new growth this coming summer.                                         
   *  Cut back the remaining strong canes to a height of 30-36 inches           
for a standard bush type rose.                                                  
                                                                                
Roses can be started from cuttings taken during midsummer from young            
flowering shoots.  Take six inch cuttings from flower shoots just as            
the flowers are fading.  Cut off the remainder of the dying flower and          
all but two sets of leaves before sticking the cutting in loose flower          
bed soil in a shaded area.  Water the cuttings well.  To hasten                 
rooting, a large glass jar can be inverted over the cuttings to form a          
mini-green house.  Be sure the sun does not hit the jar or the                  
interior may overheat.  Even though the inverted jar holds humidity             
around each cutting, it is important to check the need for water.               
******************                                                              
                                                                                
Is it all right to let strawberries grow into a bed of asparagus or             
should I pull out the plants?                                                   
                                                                                
It would not be a good idea to let strawberries grow into a bed of              
asparagus.  The plants would compete for moisture and nutrients from            
the same area, even though the asparagus roots should be much deeper            
than those of the strawberry plants.  Each plant would be a weed to             
the other.                                                                      
                                                                                
Under such competition, there would be a general weakening in the               
plants. The effects of summer stress could be severe if both plants             
share the same ground.  Both of these perennial plants need to have             
strong summer growth in order to provide good spring production.                
                                                                                
Pull dormant strawberry plants from the asparagus bed now, before the           
asparagus shoots appear. During the growing season, direct young                
strawberry runners from neighboring beds away from the asparagus.               
***************                                                                 
                                                                                
I would like to plant azaleas on the south side of our house.  What             
type do you suggest?                                                            
                                                                                
In general, azaleas are hard to establish in a location that receives           
hot afternoon sun.  Most azalea varieties prefer a partly shady                 
location,  though they can tolerate morning sun.                                
There is one azalea, the Gumpo type, that is well known for its                 
tolerance of full sun.  The Gumpos come in various colors and are               
generally  low growing.                                                         
                                                                                
You may want to talk to various nurserymen and garden center personnel          
to get suggestions on other shrubbery that will give you the color you          
want and yet thrive in the hot afternoon sun.  Some evergreen                   
possibilities are cotoneasters and various barberries.  Deciduous               
possibilities for a similar sized shrub with spring bloom include               
black chokecherry, dwarf flowering almond, or pearlbush.                        
**************                                                                  
                                                                                
I want to know what I can do to keep squirrels from digging the roots           
of my azaleas and rhododendrons and killing them.  Is there some                
method that will work or chemical I can use to repel them?                      
                                                                                
There are several methods that you can try to keep the squirrels from           
digging around your shrubs and doing damage.  However, keep in mind             
that these little animals are pretty smart and may still find a way to          
get to their favorite spots, especially if they have previously buried          
nuts or other food items there.                                                 
                                                                                
One squirrel deterrent that also keeps other animals from digging in            
the ground is pieces of small-meshed chicken wire fit over the ground           
around the shrubs.  The chicken wire can be held down with sticks or            
stones or pieces of wire bent into a "U" shape and then pushed into             
the soil.  A very light sprinkling of mulch, not over 1/2 inch, can be          
spread over the chicken wire to camouflage it.                                  
                                                                                
Squirrel repellent is available from some garden or farm centers or             
hardware stores.  Be sure to read the directions carefully and proceed          
cautiously.  Choose products designed to be applied to the soil,                
rather than those which are applied to the plant to deter eating.  The          
repellant may have to be re-applied fairly often.                               
                                                                                
Dried blood or blood meal can be spread over the soil around the                
shrubs to serve as a deterrent to squirrels.  This material is sold as          
an organic fertilizer and should be available in small packages.  This          
method operates on the smell principle; squirrels don't like the smell          
of this stuff.  Unfortunately, most people don't like the smell                 
either.                                                                         
***************                                                                 
                                                                                
I've been told that earthworms are doing damage to my lawn.  I have             
noticed a few areas where there are small piles of soil.   Should I             
worry about these?                                                              
                                                                                
Do not worry about earthworms in your yard.  Rather, you should worry           
if earthworms are not in your yard.  They are generally found in                
healthy soil with a fairly high organic matter content, exactly what a          
gardener wants.  If the small piles of soil, or castings, bother you,           
simply rake them away when you notice them.                                     
Earthworms feed only on dead plant matter, and as they do, they                 
play a vital role in the return of the nutrients contained in the dead          
plants to the soil.  They bring soil from deep in the ground to the             
surface where it is deposited as nutrient rich casts.  Their burrowing          
activity improves soil aeration and drainage.  Research has shown that          
their casts contain substances that actually promote plant growth.              
                                                                                
Try to attract earthworms in your gardening practices.  Avoid using             
pesticides which are toxic to earthworms, such as malathion, benomyl,           
and carbaryl.  Add organic matter to the soil to improve the soil               
texture and provide food for the earthworms.  Organic mulches will              
conserve soil moisture, which also benefits earthworms.                         
******************                                                              
                                                                                
I bought a pothos plant two months ago and am now having a problem              
with the tips of the leaves turning black.  Please let me know how I            
can stop this.                                                                  
                                                                                
Pothos are sturdy indoor plants for areas of moderate to low light,             
rarely suffering from insect or disease problems.  Therefore, the tips          
of the leaves turning black is probably due to watering or                      
fertilization problems.  Let's look at the possibilities.                       
                                                                                
Pothos need to be grown in a well drained soil mix that is                      
allowed to dry to the touch before watering.  Blackening of the leaf            
margins or tips is a very common response to over watering.  Determine          
the frequency of watering by the feel of the soil rather than the day           
of the week.                                                                    
                                                                                
Leaf tip or margin discoloration also occurs if a pothos is grown               
under severe stress of very dry soil with inadequate watering.  In              
either case, the discoloration may be accompanied by leaves becoming            
yellow.                                                                         
                                                                                
If the leaf color is good, except for the blackening of the tips, over          
fertilization may be the cause.  As with other foliage plants grown in          
containers, pothos can benefit from the application of a liquid                 
fertilizer mixed and applied according to package directions during             
periods of new growth.  Do not fertilize during the winter when the             
pothos is not actively growing.  Excess fertilizer  could cause leaf            
tip discoloration due to the buildup of salts, which are fertilizer             
residues, in the soil.                                                          
                                                                                
If you have fertilized more often than necessary, the first thing to            
do, of course, is to cut back on the frequency or the amount of                 
fertilization.  Leach the excess fertilizer out of the soil so that no          
further damage will be done.  To do this, place the plant in the sink           
or tub and water it until water flows copiously through the holes in            
the bottom of the pot.  Repeat this watering five or six times over             
the next few hours.  This heavy watering should not cause overwatering          
problems since the soil is then allowed to dry to the touch before the          
next regular watering.                                                          
********************                                                            
                                                                                
I have read conflicting advice about the use of Volck oil in                    
combination with lime-sulfur for dormant spraying.  Some authorities            
warn against mixing them, but one major manufacturer prints a formula           
for mixing them on the labels of both products.  What is your                   
recommendation?                                                                 
                                                                                
Virginia Tech fruit tree experts recommend that wettable sulfur not be          
used with oil spray, except during the dormant season.  They also               
caution against the use of any other pesticide in combination with oil          
sprays.  If you will read the label carefully, you will probably find           
that the combination was recommended for winter or dormant use.  This           
emphasizes the importance of carefully reading and explicitly                   
following manufacturer's directions and precautions.  Extension                 
agents, chemical salespersons, and users should not recommend or use            
any chemical product in any manner other than that stated on the                
label.                                                                          
*******************                                                             
                                                                                
Is root-feeding fruit trees preferred over scattering fertilizer on             
the surface of the ground?                                                      
                                                                                
Fertilizer scattered evenly over the surface of the ground above the            
root system is just as effective for plant maintenance as is root               
feeding the soil surrounding the plant is cleared of vegetation.                
Scatter the fertilizer starting about six inches away from the base of          
shrubs or about 1 foot from the trunk of a tree and extending to a              
short distance beyond the ends of the branches.  The fertilizer can be          
lightly raked or scratched into the mulch or soil and then watered in.          
If turf is growing around the plant, root feeding is preferred so that          
nitrogen has a chance to reach the plant roots.                                 
*****************                                                               
                                                                                
What does acid rain do to my lawn?                                              
                                                                                
Pollutants in the atmosphere, whether in precipitation or as gases, do          
damage to growing plants.  Emissions from industry, power plants,               
motor vehicles, and homes burning fossil fuels consist of three main            
pollutants - nitrogen oxide, sulfur dioxide, and hydrocarbons.  These           
pollutants combine with moisture in the atmosphere to produce acid              
rain.  Although lawn grass leaves are more resistant to pollution               
injury than those of many foliage plants, the acid rain may increase            
soil acidity.  This depends on the buffering capacity of the soil,              
which in turn depends on the mineral and organic matter content.                
Most lawn grasses grow best when the soil acidity is not below 5.8 on           
the pH scale.  If routine soil tests show that your soil is                     
approaching this acidity, apply ground limestone at the rates                   
recommended in the soil test results.  Aim to keep the pH of your lawn          
between 6.0 and 7.0.                                                            
                                                                                
Your lawn may actually receive a small benefit from acid rain.  The             
sulfur and nitrogen in the pollutants provide a small amount of                 
fertilizer for the grass.  This is little comfort, but at least it's            
something.                                                                      
**************                                                                  
                                                                                
We have an area around our picnic table which gets a lot of hard use,           
especially from my husband who uses the table to do frequent                    
woodworking projects which generate sawdust.  The grass is not                  
tolerating this abuse very well.  What can we do to improve the                 
situation?                                                                      
                                                                                
There are limits to the amount of traffic and use lawn grasses can              
tolerate.  It may well be that you have exceeded these limits in your           
picnic table area.  Why not design an area for the table and other              
heavy use outdoor activities using a non-living, wear-resistant                 
surface such as flagstones, brick, or decking?  That would look better          
than grass that is struggling to survive, and would eliminate some              
tricky mowing at the same time.                                                 
******************                                                              
                                                                                
I would like some information on the ground cover pachysandra.  I am            
considering planting some along my front walk this spring.                      
                                                                                
Pachysandra is one of the best ground covers for shady areas.                   
However, the 2 to 4 inch long evergreen leaves will turn yellow if              
they are growing in full sun.  Also, locations that receive a lot of            
wind, especially in the winter, are not suited to this ground cover.            
Where the conditions are right, the plant forms a solid, leafy,                 
evergreen mat 6 to 12 inches high, making it ideal where there is only          
room for a very low plant.                                                      
                                                                                
Pachysandra is easily transplanted and early spring is an excellent             
time of year for planting.  This ground cover likes a moist, well-              
drained soil that is well supplied with organic matter.  Pachysandra            
can do well under the branches of shallow rooted trees.                         
                                                                                
If the area you have in mind is suitable for pachysandra, work several          
inches of organic matter, such as compost or peat moss, into the soil           
and then plant the pachysandra plants about 10 to 12 inches apart.              
Water well initially and then as needed during the growing season, but          
do not keep the soil constantly soggy.  Use an organic mulch to                 
control weeds until the plants are growing thickly enough to crowd out          
competitors.                                                                    
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Press Releases March 1988                                                       
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by Ellen M. Silva, Extension                
Technician working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Consumer            
Horticulture, using material provided by Don Davis, City of Lynchburg           
Extension Agent, Deborah C. Smith, Prince William Extension Agent, and          
Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab. The Virginia Gardener Press             
Releases have been developed for agent use in preparing radio and               
newspaper features and other educational programs.                              
                                                                                
Primroses                                       46 lines                        
San Jose Scale                                  40 lines                        
Pruning Deciduous Shrubs                        71 lines                        
Prevention of Fruiting in Ornamentals           51 lines                        
Spring Lawn Care                                85 lines                        
Handling of Bare Root Perennials                59 lines                        
                                                                                
PRIMROSES                                                                       
                                                                                
Primroses are likeable plants with prolific and early blooms.  The              
plants form basal rosettes of crinkly, deeply-veined, dark green                
leaves from which vertical stalks of bright and fragrant flowers                
arise.  Primroses are hardy to Zone 5 and  bloom for longer than                
four weeks in damp, cool weather, conditions in which they will                 
thrive.                                                                         
                                                                                
Successful culture of primroses requires a cool, partly shady spot              
away from tree roots as primroses may not successfully compete with             
them for moisture.  If primroses become too dry in the summer they              
will either lose their leaves and go dormant, or develop a woody                
rootstock resulting in diminished strength and hardiness.  Primroses            
thrive in the light shade of small ornamental trees where they add a            
colorful touch to the spring display.                                           
                                                                                
To start a primrose patch, either purchase seedlings from a nursery             
or sow seeds in a nursery bed or their final location.  Starting                
primroses from seed is inexpensive but challenging.  Fresh seeds                
sown in fall are likely to germinate well and the resulting plants              
will flower the following spring. Germination is slow and sporadic              
and the seed bed must be kept moist.  When planting seed saved over             
the winter, try breaking the seed dormancy by freezing and thawing              
the seed several times.                                                         
                                                                                
Once the primrose patch is established it must be maintained                    
yearly.  Divide the plants when their leaves begin to overlap                   
neighboring plants. Divisions are simple and should be done                     
immediately after the blooming period, but never during a dry                   
spell.  Replace the central crown in its original position and plant            
the new divisions in a similar location. If only half of the patch              
is disturbed each year the patch will never miss a blooming period.             
                                                                                
                                                                                
Occasionally slugs and spider mites will cause foliage damage, but              
rarely is either a serious problem.  Both can usually be controlled             
without the use of chemicals.  Handpick the slugs from the plants at            
dusk.  Spray the plants with cold water to reduce spider mite                   
populations.                                                                    
                                                                                
Of the various species available, Primula x polyantha is one of the             
most popular.  It is available in a wide range of colors and each               
flower has a large yellow central eye.  Unlike some of the other                
primrose species, it does not demand perfect primrose conditions,               
and therefore is a good choice for the beginning primrose gardener.             
***************                                                                 
                                                                                
San Jose Scale                                                                  
                                                                                
San Jose scale is perhaps the most widely distributed and most                  
destructive scale insect pest in the United States.  Scale insects              
are a peculiar group which look quite different from the typical                
insects we encounter day to day.  Small, immobile, and with no                  
visible legs or antennae, they resemble individual fish scales                  
pressed tightly against the plant on which they are feeding.  Mature            
San Jose scales are circular, slightly convex, and smoky black.                 
They are about one sixteenth of an inch across.  Under a magnifying             
glass conspicuous dark gray concentric rings are visible.                       
                                                                                
Like all scale insects, San Jose scales feed on plant sap.  They                
have long, thread-like mouthparts (stylets) which they use to feed              
on plant sap while under the protection of their waxy, scale-like               
coverings.  Over sixty plants, including apple, pear, peach, cherry,            
ash, poplar, lilac, elm, willow, pyracantha, and cotoneaster, are               
known hosts for the San Jose scale.  Feeding by the insects slowly              
reduces plant vigor.  Heavily infested plants grow poorly and may               
suffer dieback of twigs and branches.  Occasionally, an infested                
host will be so weakened that it dies.                                          
                                                                                
Control of scales must be carefully planned to coincide with                    
vulnerable stages of the scale life cycle.  San Jose scale is an                
armored scale; that is it secretes a protective cover over its body.            
It overwinters as eggs beneath the female cover.  At this stage,                
dormant oil is an effective control.  Apply it in late spring before            
leaves appear.                                                                  
                                                                                
The other vulnerable stage in a scale insect's life is the crawler              
stage, when newly hatched scales are migrating to new feeding sites.            
After a few days the crawlers settle, insert their mouthparts, and              
begin feeding.  Soon they secrete their protective cover and lose               
their legs.  Several insecticides are labelled to control scale                 
crawlers, but timing is important as the crawler stage is short.  In            
Virginia, there are at least three generations of San Jose Scale a              
year, with the crawlers appearing roughly from June 10-15, July 10-             
15, and September 10-15.  Consult your local Extension agent for                
current insecticide recommendations.                                            
*******************                                                             
                                                                                
PRUNING DECIDUOUS SHRUBS                                                        
                                                                                
Deciduous shrubs are woody plants that drop their leaves in autumn.             
Examples of deciduous shrubs are lilac, forsythia, snowball                     
viburnum, and cranberry cotoneaster.  They are valued in the                    
landscape for either their foliage, branching characteristics, fall             
leaf color, flowers, or colored twigs in winter. Some have colorful             
fruits that attract birds.                                                      
                                                                                
Select deciduous shrubs based on their function in the landscape.               
Shrubs have different habits of growth, from fast to slow with                  
various shapes such as upright, wide-spreading, arching or horizont-            
al branching. Selection of the right plant for height and spread at             
maturity can reduce the need for pruning.                                       
                                                                                
Before starting to prune, know what you wish to accomplish. Pruning             
is one of the most essential but least understood garden maintenance            
practices. Good pruning is the selective removal of branches without            
changing the plant's natural appearance or habit of growth. Shrubs              
trimmed to an artificial size or shape require more pruning than                
shrubs pruned to keep their natural shape. Prune to improve the                 
health of the shrub by cutting out dead, diseased, broken, and                  
overgrown branches that interfere with new growth. Pruning can also             
control the size and shape of shrubbery.                                        
                                                                                
There are two basic pruning cuts, thinning out and heading back.                
When thinning out, a branch or twig is cut off at its point of                  
origin from the parent stem, at a lateral side branch, at a "Y" of a            
branch junction, or at the ground level.  This method of pruning is             
best done with hand pruners, not hedge shears. Thinning out results             
in a more open plant and does not stimulate excessive new growth.               
Considerable growth can be cut off without changing the plant's                 
natural appearance or habit of growth. Plants can be maintained at a            
given height and spread for years by thinning out. Thinning allows              
room for growth of side branches.                                               
                                                                                
A specific application of the thinning cut is renewal pruning, in               
which the oldest branches are gradually removed from an overgrown               
shrub at the ground level. It is best to do this over a three year              
or longer period, leaving the younger more vigorous branches for                
replacements.  New shoots that develop can be cut back to various               
lengths by the thinning method to develop the desired shape.                    
                                                                                
Heading back refers to cutting back a branch anywhere along the                 
length of a stem.  The cut may be above a bud or below a bud, and it            
may even leave a stub. Shearing is a form of heading back in which              
the entire surface of the plant is cut back to a uniform surface.               
The effect of heading back is to stimulate vigorous new growth below            
the cut. This method of pruning is frequently done with hedge shears            
without regard for the natural form of branching of the plants. If              
every branch or twig is headed back, more growth develops than was              
removed by the pruning. The natural form of the plant is altered by             
the extra growth.  This is desirable when growing formal hedges, but            
can ultimately result in interior leaves dropping from the plant                
because the dense shell of foliage formed at the surface of the                 
plant shades them out.                                                          
                                                                                
Avoid leaving stubs when pruning even a small shoot or twig. Short              
stubs will not heal properly and will eventually provide a source of            
entry for insects and diseases. Cuts too far above a bud may destroy            
the bud by decay or die-back. Cuts too close to the bud may dry out             
the bud, especially in winter. The proper pruning cuts should be 1/8            
to 3/8 of an inch above the bud slightly slanted away from the bud.             
                                                                                
The ideal time to prune most plants is during the dormant season                
prior to the start of new growth. Flowering shrubs are an exception             
to this rule.  Shrubs that bloom in spring may be pruned immediately            
after flowering, as winter pruning would remove the flower buds and,            
thus, the spring show.  Late flowering shrubs that bloom on wood                
produced the same year can be pruned before growth starts in the                
spring.                                                                         
*************                                                                   
                                                                                
Prevention of Fruiting in Ornamentals                                           
                                                                                
Many ornamental plants grown by homeowners for their profusion of               
flowers in the spring or other landscape features have the drawback             
of producing a large amount of fruit that by late summer can be                 
malodorous and/or messy when dropping on lawns, sidewalks and cars.             
There are ways to enjoy these plants  and avoid the fruity mess.                
                                                                                
When attempting to inhibit fruit formation, first recall what causes            
fruiting.  Female flower parts must be pollinated by male flower                
parts - whether both parts are within the same flower (a perfect                
flower), in separate flowers on the same plant (monoecious species),            
or on separate plants (dioecious species).  For example, apples,                
buckeyes, and Nandina have perfect flowers while firs, alders and               
birches are monoecious, and holly, juniper, yew, willow, sumac,                 
poplar, ash, ginkgo, Osage orange, fringe tree, bittersweet,  and               
tree of heaven are dioecious.                                                   
                                                                                
When choosing a plant, avoid fruit problems by asking for a male                
plant if the plant is dioecious.  If you are buying a ginkgo at a               
nursery you are almost assured of getting a male because the odor of            
the female's fruit is so undesirable that females are rarely sold.              
                                                                                
Some species may be available as guaranteed seedless or fruitless               
cultivars or varieties.  For example, several ash and honeylocust               
varieties are seedless.  The following are some fruitless/seedless              
cultivars now available.                                                        
                                                                                
Acer rubrum `Columnare', predominantly male - Columnar Red Maple                
Acer saccharinum `Silver Queen', seedless - Silver Maple                        
Aesculus Hippocastanum `Baumannii', seedless - White   Horsechestnut            
Fraxinus americana `Autumn Purple', male, `Autumn Applause',   male,            
and `Rosehill', male - White Ash                                                
Fraxinus pennsylvanica `Marshall's Seedless' - Green Ash                        
Ginkgo biloba `Autumn Gold', male - Ginkgo                                      
Gleditsia triacanthos `Moraine', fruitless, and `Shademaster',                  
essentially fruitless - Thornless Honey Locust                                  
Hibiscus syriacus `Diana', sets very little fruit, and `Helene',                
sets very little fruit - Althea                                                 
Malus `Spring Snow', fruitless - Crabapple (scab susceptible)                   
Malus `Prince Georges' , fruitless - Crabapple (scab resistant)                 
Morus alba `Chapparal', fruitless, and `Urbana', fruitless -                    
Mulberry, male                                                                  
                                                                                
If you already have a woody ornamental in your yard whose fruit is              
causing problems, and you don't wish to remove it, remove the                   
flowers as the begin to fade, either by handpicking or with pruning             
shears.  This is practical if you have a very small planting.  Avoid            
indiscriminate chopping with hedge shears which can destroy the                 
natural beauty of the plant.                                                    
***************                                                                 
                                                                                
Spring Lawn Care                                                                
                                                                                
As the grass greens up, many homeowners are anxious to get out and              
start working on their lawns.  A little patience and care at this               
point will reward the gardener with a fine lawn later.                          
                                                                                
For instance, the sight of new grass growing often inspires the                 
homeowner to run out and spread fertilizer to help the young blades             
along.  This is actually the opposite of recommended practices for              
fescue and bluegrass lawns.  The proper time to feed grass is in the            
fall, when the roots that will sustain the plants through the                   
following summer are actively growing.  Even if the fall feeding was            
missed, any spring feeding should be limited to a light feeding (1/2            
pound of actual nitrogen, i.e., 5 pounds of 10-10-10, per 1000 sq.              
ft.) after the initial flush of growth has subsided, probably                   
sometime in May or early June.                                                  
                                                                                
Lime, on the other hand, should be applied in early spring, if soil             
tests show that it is necessary.  Most lawn grasses grow best at                
soil pH's of 6.0 to 7.0, so have your soil's pH analyzed every two              
to three years to be sure you are staying in that range.  The soil              
test results will include recommendations on how much lime to apply.            
                                                                                
The best time to establish a new lawn from seed is in the fall, but             
many homeowners will need to reseed patches of lawn that have been              
damaged during the winter.  Seed sown during March and early April              
will have a chance to grow successfully if it is well watered and               
cared for, from seeding on through the heat of summer.  It is a good            
idea to fertilize newly seeded grass using a high phosphorous                   
fertilizer (for example, 25 pounds of 5-10-5 per 1000 square feet               
when patch seeding) which will foster root growth.  The grass will              
be stronger and healthier if you can water daily until the plants               
are established.  If you absolutely can't water, mulch with straw to            
the depth of one to two inches and hope for rain.  Water                        
approximately once a week throughout the summer, for the tops of the            
grass may look great, but the roots are not as long and dense as                
those of the grass in an established lawn.                                      
                                                                                
There are many varieties and types of grass seed from which to                  
choose.  Your county cooperative extension agent can supply you with            
a publication which discusses selection of turfgrasses in Virginia              
(Extension Publication 430-008).                                                
                                                                                
When your lawn requires its first cutting, be sure not to cut too               
short.  Mow to about two inches during the spring, then raise the               
cutting height another half inch when summer arrives.  Mow                      
frequently so that no more than one third of the grass blade is                 
removed at one time.                                                            
                                                                                
Along with the grass, several undesirables are probably growing in              
your lawn.  The best prevention for a weedy lawn is to provide such             
great growing conditions that the turf crowds out the weeds.  If the            
weeds are sparse, use that early spring energy to hand pull some of             
those perennial weeds.  There are chemicals that can be used if you             
have more weeds than energy.  If you choose to use herbicides, be               
sure to apply them when they will have maximum impact on the weed               
population.  Follow label directions closely for information on time            
of application and safety precautions.                                          
                                                                                
Apply preemergent herbicides between the middle of March and the                
middle of April to control crabgrass.  Crabgrass generally emerges              
about the time of dogwood bloom, and the preemergent herbicides used            
to control it will not affect crabgrass that is already up and                  
growing.  The only preemergent herbicide that will not interfere                
with the germination of desirable grass seeds in newly seeded areas             
is Siduron.  An alternative to preemergence control of crabgrass is             
postemergence control with MSMA or DSMA.  (??)  These chemicals                 
require two to three treatments and will leave yellow patches of                
dead crabgrass in the lawn.                                                     
                                                                                
Spraying for dandelions is most effective in fall, but spring                   
spraying of a broadleaf weed killer will control many of them.  Be              
sure to spray when the weeds are actively growing rather than during            
drought conditions.  When spraying any herbicide, use a different               
sprayer from the one which you use to apply insecticides or                     
fungicides.  Mark it "HERBICIDE" so it will not inadvertently be                
used for other purposes, which may result in herbicide residues                 
damaging valuable plants.                                                       
                                                                                
March is still a little early for dethatching and insect control, so            
after taking care of the few necessary lawn chores for early spring,            
you can relax and save your energy for summer mowing.                           
************                                                                    
                                                                                
Handling of Bare root Perennials                                                
                                                                                
Many perennials ordered from nurseries are bare root plants.  These             
plants are subject to the stresses of being dug from the field, held            
in cold storage, shipped long distances under varying conditions,               
and are frequently held in temporary storage before being planted at            
their final destination.  There are several things that home                    
gardeners can do to ensure the survival and growth of the plants                
that they order.                                                                
                                                                                
Determine a shipment's quality upon arrival.  If the crowns and                 
roots are covered with molds, are rotted, or are very dry, it is                
unlikely that the plant will grow well.  Give it a try if you'd                 
like, but be prepared for disappointment.  Notify the nursery of                
your receipt of poor quality plants.  This will simplify a later                
request for a refund or replacement, if necessary.  If the roots are            
turgid and light in color, little or no mold is present, and the                
crowns and roots are in good physical condition, odds are good that             
the plant will do well if properly planted.  If the plant appears               
somewhere between these two conditions, the subsequent regrowth of              
the plant becomes more of a judgement call.  A partial covering of              
surface mold may be unsightly, but the plant may be healthy enough              
to make satisfactory growth.  Research has shown that when surface              
molds cover 50 percent of the plant or less, the potential for                  
regrowth is not affected.  Regrowth quality does decrease as surface            
molds increase, and when soft rotting molds or bacterial infections             
are present, regrowth is unlikely.                                              
                                                                                
Plant perennials as soon as possible after delivery.  If you cannot             
plant immediately, store them properly until you can plant.                     
Moisture loss is the greatest threat to the survival of bare root               
plants.  Exposure to room temperature and humidity will cause bare              
root plants to lose as much as two to three percent of their fresh              
weight in moisture every hour.  Such an exposure for even overnight             
can easily result in the plant's death.  Preventing desiccation                 
should be your highest priority in handling bare root perennials.               
If you must wait to plant, keep them in the poly bags in which they             
were shipped.  These bags allow adequate exchange of oxygen and                 
carbon dioxide when the plants are kept at cool temperatures, so                
don't open the bags so the plants can "breathe."  Don't give them a             
drink, either, as free water in the bags will promote the growth of             
molds and bacteria.                                                             
                                                                                
High temperatures can also lower plant regrowth quality.  Store the             
plants in your refrigerator, as close to but not below 32 deg. F as             
you can, until you are ready to plant them.  If the plants have been            
allowed to warm significantly above storage temperatures,                       
condensation in the bags upon recooling may be a problem.  Leave the            
bags open as they cool to the storage temperature, then close them              
again.  Some moisture loss will occur, but the amount of mold                   
promoting condensate on the inside of the bags will be reduced.                 
                                                                                
Continue to protect the regrowth quality of bare root plants even               
while planting them.  Keep them in their shipping bags until                    
planting time.  Shade the bags so the roots will not heat up.  Don't            
leave an unprotected plant lying on the ground while preparing the              
planting hole.  Dessication can occur rapidly on a sunny and breezy             
spring day.  Water the plant thoroughly to settle it into the soil              
and get it off to a good start.                                                 
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
March 1988 Monthly Notes                                                        
                                                                                
Herbaceous Plants                                                               
                                                                                
* If weeds occur in bulb beds do not remove them by cultivation,                
but pull them by hand so that the bulbs and roots will not be                   
disturbed.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Some annuals such as verbenas, snapdragons and petunias take 70               
to 90 days to bloom from seed, and should be started indoors in                 
early spring or purchased as greenhouse-grown transplants.                      
                                                                                
* Rejuvenate liriope by using a lawn mower to cut back the old                  
foliage to a height of 2 to 3 inches. Avoid mowing too closely                  
and thereby damaging the crown of the plant, as that is where the               
new growth emerges.                                                             
                                                                                
* Divide and transplant summer and fall blooming perennials                     
(astilbe, aster, bleeding heart, coral bells, daylilies, phlox,                 
shasta daisies).  Rework beds before planting, adding organic                   
matter and fertilizer.  Perennials perform best in well-drained                 
soil with plenty of humus. Astilbe, hosta, and bleeding heart                   
will bloom in the shade.                                                        
                                                                                
* Buy some new perennials for the flower border. Spring is a good               
time to renew and add variety to your landscape. Visit a local                  
garden center or secure catalogs from your favorite nursery.                    
                                                                                
* Many annual flowers are frost hardy when plants are small                     
including alyssum, California poppy, candytuft,larkspur, pansy &                
viola, phlox, pinks, Shirley poppy, snapdragon, stock, and sweet                
pea. Seeds can be sown as soon as the soil is warm and dry enough               
to work.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Cannas for early flowering may be started in boxes or large                   
pots in a cool cellar or enclosed porch. Cut the rhizomes into                  
pieces of convenient size and plant in a soil mixture containing                
adequate sand for good drainage. The developing plants are tender               
to cold and may be set in the garden about a week after the                     
average date of the last frost in your area.                                    
                                                                                
* Don't forget to give naturalized bulbs fertilizer in the                      
spring. Bone meal is a good organic fertilizer.  Broadcast it at                
a rate of 5 lbs. per 100 square feet. Do not mow the area until                 
the bulb foliage begins to die back.                                            
                                                                                
Woody Ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* Prune evergreen shrubs before growth starts.                                  
                                                                                
* Boxwood should be pruned by thinning out the outer foliage of                 
the plant and cutting back the branches to retain desired height.               
                                                                                
* Trees and shrubs which are making weak growth should be                       
fertilized to stimulate more attractive development. About a                    
month before your area's average last frost apply approximately 1               
cup of 5-10-5 to shrubs 4-8 feet tall. Use half as much on                      
smaller shrubs, and twice as much on larger specimens.  On trees,               
apply 2 lbs. of 5-10-5 for each inch diameter measured at 3 feet                
above the ground. Apply uniformly over root zone and water in                   
thoroughly.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Use flexible ties to support newly transplanted trees between                 
rigid stakes. Research has shown that young trees allowed to move               
with the wind develop greater trunk strength than trees rigidly                 
staked.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Plant roses and bare-root shrubs while they are still dormant,                
about 4 weeks before the average date of the last frost.                        
                                                                                
* Hedges can receive their first pruning this month. As you                     
prune, be sure to leave the base of the plant wider than the top.               
This allows sunlight to get to the bottom of the plant, creating                
a full, dense hedge.                                                            
                                                                                
* Crabapples, valued for their beautiful spring blossoms and                    
attractive fruit, are members of the rose family. Along with many               
of their relatives, many crabapples are susceptible to diseases                 
such as scab, cedar-apple rust, powdery mildew, and fire blight.                
All of these diseases shorten the life span of the trees and                    
diminish their ornamental qualities. Plant disease-resistant                    
cultivars of crabapple such as `Strawberry Parfait', `Radiant',                 
`Hopa', `Snowdrift', and `Callaway'.                                            
                                                                                
* Dogwoods and magnolias should only be moved in early spring.                  
Magnolias have a fleshy root system with minimal lateral roots                  
and root hairs; dig them so that a ball of soil as large as you                 
can manage remains around the roots to protect them.  When                      
transplanting either species, it is best that the trees be small                
(2-3 ft.), and dormant.  These become established more quickly                  
than larger ones. The larger the tree, the greater the risk of                  
death due to transplant shock since more roots are removed during               
digging.                                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
* Propagate deciduous shrubs such as forsythia and winter jasmine               
by ground layering now.  Select a long and pliable branch.  Cut a               
notch in the branch and hold it open with a small sliver of wood.               
Bend the branch so that the notch touches the ground, and then                  
mound soil over the notched section, leaving the tip of the                     
branch protruding from the ground.  If necessary, use a rock or                 
forked branch to hold the notched section of branch in the                      
ground.  Roots will form at this point, and the new plant can be                
transplanted the following spring.                                              
                                                                                
* Start resurrecting the lily pool. Drain and clean the pool                    
before growth begins.                                                           
                                                                                
* Don't leave stubs when pruning; stubs usually die and are entry               
points for decay fungus. Pruning should never be done in damp or                
wet weather when the fungal spores and bacteria that infect                     
plants through fresh cuts spread easily.                                        
                                                                                
* Trees which bleed such as birch and maple should not be pruned                
until after their leaves are fully developed.                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
* When spring-flowering bulbs complete their flowering cycle,                   
fertilize with a little super phosphate or bonemeal to ensure                   
quality blooms next year. Remove the bulb foliage only after it                 
dies naturally.                                                                 
                                                                                
* After pussywillow catkins have passed their prime, prune the                  
plants drastically to encourage long branches and large catkins                 
for next year.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Plant new rose bushes in properly dug beds. Fertilize estab-                  
lished roses after pruning.  Have the soil tested about every two               
years. If black spot or powdery mildew have been a problem, start               
applications of a recommended fungicide. Contact your local agent               
for current recommendations. When pruning or cutting roses, cut                 
all flower stems 1/4 inch above a complete (5 leaflet) leaf                     
leaving at least two complete leaves on the branch below the cut                
bud. Always cut on a slant.                                                     
                                                                                
* Boxwood may be moved now; do not plant them deeper than they                  
were previously planted. Trim and fertilize established boxwood                 
before new growth starts, but do not cultivate under boxwood                    
since their roots are shallow and easily damaged.                               
                                                                                
* Complete the pruning of shrubs and ornamental trees before                    
growth starts, except for spring flowering shrubs. Prune those                  
which bloom in spring as soon as they finish flowering.                         
                                                                                
* Variegated plants can help add the illusion of light to a dark                
area. Shade-loving groundcovers such as variegated liriope,                     
ivies, euonymus, and hosta can be very effective for this.                      
                                                                                
* When planting trees in clay soil, improve drainage by placing                 
the root ball in a shallow hole and building up a mound of soil                 
around it, or by laying drain tile from the bottom of the hole to               
a ditch or to a special drainage area. Provide a drainage area by               
digging another hole lower than the planting hole and filling it                
with gravel. Use pipe or tile to carry excess water to this hole                
from the tree roots. Another solution is to play it safe and                    
select a tree that withstands wet feet.                                         
                                                                                
Landscape                                                                       
                                                                                
* Get your landscape design or redesign on paper. It's easier to                
erase it from a plan than to move it with a shovel.                             
                                                                                
* Shrubs and trees in the home landscape break up sound waves and               
reduce the nerve-shattering noise of modern society. Plant some                 
new shrubs and trees this spring to improve the beauty and                      
ambience of your home.                                                          
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
* Take care to keep off soft and soggy lawns. Lime spreaders,                   
wheelbarrows and other equipment will leave compaction marks.                   
Seed new lawns and do repairs after the land has drained.                       
                                                                                
* When a blanket of snow insulates the lawn, temperatures at                    
ground level may rise above freezing. Snow mold fungi which                     
appears as a white cottony growth on grass blades thrives at                    
temperatures between 32 and 65 F. To reduce possible snow mold                  
damage, remove heavy snow accumulations in shady areas. If you                  
cannot physically remove the snow, spread ashes or dry peat moss                
on the snow. The dark colored material will absorb solar radia-                 
tion and speed the melting of snow.                                             
                                                                                
* Apply a pre-emergence herbicide before lawn weeds get started.                
These types of chemicals work by preventing the seed from                       
germinating. Therefore, it is important that the herbicides be                  
applied in early spring, before growth of the weed seedlings.                   
Check with your local extension agent for specific recommen-                    
dations.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Use crabgrass killer before forsythia blooms fade.                            
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* When buying transplants, choose those plants with a compact,                  
bushy form and bright green leaves. Young, healthy plants with no               
flowers or flower buds will adapt more easily and overcome the                  
shock of transplanting much faster.                                             
                                                                                
* Remember, hardy vegetables such as cabbage, broccoli, lettuce                 
and Brussels sprouts can be transplanted two weeks prior to the                 
average date of the last frost and warm season crops such as                    
tomatoes, eggplant, pepper, muskmelon and watermelon should not                 
be planted until all danger of frost is past.                                   
                                                                                
* Start transplants of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants indoors.                
                                                                                
* If your outdoor space is limited, consider gardening without a                
garden. Tomatoes, peppers, lettuce and many other vegetables do                 
well when grown in containers. Barrels, window boxes, cut off                   
milk jugs, almost anything providing good drainage will do as                   
long as it is deep enough to support the plant. Minimum depths                  
for some container-grown vegetables:                                            
 4"-lettuce, radishes, beets, low growing herbs                                 
 6"-chard, turnips, short-rooted carrots                                        
 8"-eggplant, peppers, bush cucumbers                                           
10"-cauliflower, broccoli                                                       
12"-tomatoes, long-rooted carrots                                               
                                                                                
* Seed root crops such as carrots, beets, radish and parsnips                   
directly into your garden.                                                      
                                                                                
* The flavor and quality of the white and yellow varieties of                   
beets are similar to the traditional red cultivars.                             
                                                                                
 * When sowing seeds for transplants, leave about 1/8" of space                 
between seeds to allow them to grow adequately and to discourage                
damping-off fungus.                                                             
                                                                                
 * To extend the asparagus harvest, remove the mulch from only                  
half the bed.  The exposed soil will rise in temperature,                       
encouraging these plants to sprout quickly. In 2 or 3 weeks when                
shoots appear in the mulched half, carefully remove the remaining               
mulch.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Don't plow your garden when the soil is wet.  Clods will form                 
which are difficult to break up and interfere with cultivation                  
during the summer.                                                              
                                                                                
* Do not add lime to the garden area reserved for potatoes.  Low                
pH helps control scab.                                                          
                                                                                
* Unsterilized soil may contain organisms that cause damping off,               
a disease that can make young seedlings wither and die suddenly.                
Use a sterilized potting mix in clean pots or flats.                            
                                                                                
* Towards the end of the month, plant onion sets, potatoes, peas,               
radishes, asparagus, carrots, turnips, leaf lettuce and other                   
cold-hardy vegetables.                                                          
                                                                                
* You may wish to try some new, unusual vegetables in your garden               
this year. A few that can grow successfully in Virginia are bok                 
choy, Jerusalem artichoke, kohlrabi, leeks, and horseradish. For                
planting and harvesting tips, call your extension agent. Do be                  
warned, though, Jerusalem artichokes and horseradish are very                   
persistent perennials and may become weeds in your garden.                      
                                                                                
* Greenhouse-grown plants, even hardy kinds, should be acclimati-               
zed or hardened off before transplanting to the garden in the                   
early spring to minimize the chance of frost injury.  Gradually                 
reduce water and temperature to allow the plant tissues to                      
toughen up so that they will tolerate the less hospitable garden                
environment.                                                                    
                                                                                
* If you need small cabbage heads (up to 8 ounces for small                     
meals), pinch out the center leaves on some of your plants when                 
the seedlings are set out.  Three or four small heads will be                   
produced on each plant by midsummer.  Small heads may also be                   
produced if the plants are closely spaced (about 4-6 inches                     
apart).                                                                         
                                                                                
* Apply a liberal side dressing of 5-10-5 fertilizer on the                     
asparagus bed and around the rhubarb plants. Use about 4 lbs. per               
100 sq. ft. and scratch it into the top 2 inches of soil. Renew                 
the organic mulch to a depth of about 1 inch to help conserve                   
soil moisture during the summer.                                                
                                                                                
* A plentiful supply of tomatoes can be obtained from 2-3 plants                
per family member.  Grow additional plants if you plan to can or                
make juice.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Plan your vegetable garden on a sheet of paper to utilize the                 
space most efficiently. Remember to rotate the vegetables in the                
garden to reduce insect and disease problems.                                   
                                                                                
* Buy a notebook and use it to keep all your gardening informa-                 
tion. List what you plant in the garden. Include the names of                   
seed companies, plant names, varieties, planting dates, and                     
harvest dates. During the growing season keep notes on how well                 
the plants do.  If the variety is susceptible to disease, record                
what was used to treat any problems. All this information will be               
helpful in planning future gardens.                                             
                                                                                
* Parsley is rich in vitamins A and C. Start some seeds indoors                 
now for later transplanting to a sunny corner of the vegetable                  
garden.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Cloches for tall individual vegetables can be easily improvised               
by wrapping plastic around tomato cages and securing with tape.                 
Leave tops open during the day for ventilation and closed at                    
night by laying a board over the top.  Or, place 3 or 4 stakes                  
around each plant to form a frame and drop a large plastic bag                  
over them.                                                                      
                                                                                
* One way to avoid the danger of unusually cold nights is to set                
water-filled plastic jugs around each seedling. Warmed by the                   
sun, the water will radiate heat all night, preventing cold                     
damage.                                                                         
                                                                                
Fruit                                                                           
                                                                                
* Don't rush to remove mulch from strawberries. Leave it over the               
plants to protect them from late cold spells. When plants start                 
to grow, the mulch must be removed to allow leaves to develop in                
the light. If leaves develop under the mulch, they will become                  
etiolated and yellow from lack of chlorophyll, and may burn and                 
die when exposed to the sun.                                                    
                                                                                
* Spring applications of pesticides should be made on peaches,                  
apples, and pears. Correct timing for spraying depends on the                   
stage of development of flowers. Request a spray schedule from                  
your local agent.                                                               
                                                                                
* For strawberry production throughout the growing season, the                  
Earlidawn, Surecrop, and Marlate varieties are good planting                    
selections. Since the strawberry is probably the most regionally                
adapted crop gardeners grow, you would be well advised to plant                 
one of the cultivars known to grow and produce well in your area.               
For more information, contact your local extension agent.                       
                                                                                
* Weed control is one of the most time-consuming, yet most                      
important, practices in any fruit planting. Young strawberries,                 
raspberries, blueberries, grapes, and tree fruits all suffer if                 
weed growth is uncontrolled. Peach trees, of all the fruit trees,               
suffer the most from weed competition. Mulching helps control                   
weeds.                                                                          
                                                                                
Indoor Plants                                                                   
                                                                                
* Topiary is the art of clipping and trimming plants into unusual               
designs. Forms for indoor topiary can be purchased or shaped by                 
hand from galvanized wire. One media mix for topiary forms is 1                 
part peatmoss to 1 part potting soil surrounded by sheet moss.                  
Plants such as English ivy and creeping thyme work well for this                
use.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Wait until the weather warms to put houseplants outside.  Even                
50 deg F weather can damage plants and cause leaves to fall.                    
                                                                                
* Repot houseplants that have grown too large for their                         
containers or that have become rootbound.  Cut back leggy plants                
to encourage compact growth. Root the cuttings in moist media to                
increase your supply of plants.                                                 
                                                                                
* Houseplants can be watered and fed more frequently with the                   
onset of spring and new growth.                                                 
                                                                                
Tools and Equipment                                                             
                                                                                
* If you haven't done it already, check stored tools and outdoor                
furniture for signs of rust. Remove any surface rust with steel                 
wool and paint with rust-inhibitive paint.                                      
                                                                                
* If the old tiller turns over sluggishly in spring, move it to a               
sunny location and cover it with a black plastic garbage bag for                
a half hour before trying to start it.  The solar heating will                  
warm up the fluids and make starting easier.                                    
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* Check the average date of the last frost in your area before                  
beginning spring gardening chores. Your county extension agent                  
can give you this information.                                                  
                                                                                
* A child's first garden should include sunflowers from seeds.                  
The large seeds sprout quickly and dependably and the strong                    
seedlings can push their way through crusted soil. If you are                   
shooting for record sunflowers, your plants will need to top 20                 
feet in height with seed head diameters of 2 feet to be in the                  
running.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Mulches can change soil temperature. Black plastic warms the                  
soil and should be applied before planting. Organic materials                   
delay the sun's penetration thereby keeping the soil cooler. Ap-                
ply organic mulches after plants are 3-4 inches tall and soil is                
warm.                                                                           
                                                                                
* The Virginia Gardener Newsletter is a convenient source of new                
information. The cost is low, the information up-to-date, and                   
it's delivered to your door.                                                    
                                                                                
* Cover old stumps with soil to hasten decay.                                   
                                                                                
* Turn the compost pile and add manure.                                         
                                                                                
* Install new birdhouses early this month and clean out old ones                
in preparation for the migrating birds which will be looking for                
nesting sites soon.  If you have experienced problems with                      
predators such as snakes invading the nests, try mounting the                   
houses on a smooth metal pole which will be more difficult for                  
marauders to climb.                                                             
                                                                                
*If the spring season is typically cold and wet, or if the garden               
is too muddy to enter following a rain, consider building raised                
beds. They work especially well as a replacement for traditional                
gardens if the soil is poor, rocky, or compacted.                               
                                                                                
* Don't overexert those under worked winter muscles as you begin                
spring gardening. Bend at the knees and lift with your legs, not                
your back.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Choose a permanent spot for herbs in the garden. Many of them                 
will come up year after year.                                                   
                                                                                
* A good salt substitute for anyone who wants to restrict sodium                
intake is a blending of equal parts of dried basil, dill, lemon                 
balm, marjoram, mint, parsley, rosemary, and thyme, with a few                  
dashes of Hungarian paprika.  The mixture will keep indefinitely                
in a dark glass or ceramic container.                                           
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Research Abstracts - February 1988                                              
                                                                                
The following research abstracts were prepared by Ellen M. Silva,               
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension                        
Specialist.  They are to assist agents in keeping up to date on                 
recent research in consumer horticulture.  Copies of the original               
articles including lists of varieties and scientific names of                   
plants used in the studies are available from the Consumer                      
Horticulture office.  Send requests on computer to PDRELF.                      
                                                                                
Container Size Influences Broccoli and Cauliflower                              
	Transplant Growth but not Yield				72 lines                                    
Thatch Accumulation in Tall Fescue Turfs			45 lines                             
Parsley Emergence and Seedling Growth from Raw, 	                               
	Osmoconditioned, and Pregerminated Seeds		86 lines                             
Effect of Stage of Development on Postharvest                                   
	Behavior of Cucumber Fruit					55 lines                                        
Variety Introduction - Crape-myrtle `Acoma', `Hopi',                            
	`Pecos', and `Zuni', Lagerstroemia indica L. x                                 
	L.fauriei Koehne.							73 lines                                               
**********************                                                          
                                                                                
CONTAINER SIZE INFLUENCES BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER TRANSPLANT                   
GROWTH BUT NOT YIELD                                                            
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture                                              
                                                                                
Broccoli and cauliflower are frequently grown from transplants                  
both in commercial fields and in the home garden.  Transplanting                
allows an earlier yield, which demands a higher market price for                
the commercial grower and produces one of the earlier crops of                  
the season in a home garden.  Transplanting is also a more                      
efficient use of seed, avoids thinning in the field, and allows                 
optimal plant spacing.                                                          
                                                                                
Little is known about the effect of container size on the                       
earliness and yield of these crops.  Larger transplants generally               
cost more, but are they worth more?  Information in this area is                
valuable to both the home grower who may have limited transplant                
growing space and the commercial grower who will pay less for                   
transplants in smaller containers.                                              
                                                                                
Conclusions                                                                     
                                                                                
Four-week-old transplant size generally increased with increasing               
container size for both broccoli and cauliflower.                               
                                                                                
Earliness, length of harvest season, and yield were unaffected by               
container size when planting out 5- and 6- week-old transplants.                
                                                                                
Small containers (2.0 cm wide, and 3.2 to 4.5 cm deep) are                      
economical and appropriate for growing broccoli and cauliflower                 
transplants.                                                                    
                                                                                
Abstract                                                                        
                                                                                
Four-week-old transplants growing in six different container                    
sizes (from 3.8 to 30.5 cubic cm volume) were purchased from a                  
commercial transplant grower and randomly sampled for measurement               
of height, leaf dry weight, leaf area, and leaf number.  The                    
remaining samples were hardened off and planted at 5 weeks of age               
and 6 weeks of age in two separate locations.  The plots were                   
fertilized and watered as needed.  Broccoli plants were harvested               
as the heads reached 15 cm in diameter and the side shoots were                 
harvested three times as they reached 5 cm in diameter.                         
Cauliflower heads were also harvested as they reached 15 cm in                  
diameter.  Marketable quality was determined subjectively at                    
harvest.                                                                        
                                                                                
Growth of both types of transplants was similar so the data on                  
transplant growth was pooled.  The number of leaves/plant, leaf                 
dry weight/plant, leaf area/plant, and plant height generally                   
increased with increasing container volume and width and                        
decreasing plant density.  Increasing container depth did not                   
affect these variables except for plant height, which increased                 
linearly with increasing depth of container.  Though the                        
transplants were the same age, the transplants growing in larger                
containers were larger.                                                         
                                                                                
Central head yield of broccoli showed no relationship to                        
container size and therefore, transplant size.  Cull and side                   
shoot yields were also unaffected by container size.  The only                  
difference found was that plants at one of the planting locations               
matured one week later when the transplants were grown in the                   
smallest size container (2.0 cm by 2.0 cm by 3.2 cm).                           
                                                                                
Container size did not affect marketable yield, cull yields,                    
earliness, and length of harvest season for cauliflower.                        
                                                                                
Reference: Dufault, Robert J. and Luther Waters, Jr.  1985.                     
Container Size Influences Broccoli and Cauliflower Transplant                   
Growth but not Yield.  HortScience 20(4):682-684.                               
*********************                                                           
                                                                                
THATCH ACCUMULATION IN TALL FESCUE TURFS                                        
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture                                              
                                                                                
Differences in species, cultivars, and cultural practices all                   
influence thatch accumulation.  Forage type fescues such as                     
`Kentucky 31' have been frequently used in lawn seed mixtures and               
have typically not been troubled by thatch build up.  Recently,                 
turf-type tall fescues have been increasing in popularity for                   
home lawn use.  However, no literature exists regarding thatch                  
accumulation in turf-type tall fescue lawns.  Homeowners                        
switching from a forage-type tall fescue lawn to a turf-type tall               
fescue lawn will need to be aware of any differences in thatch                  
accumulation so that they can plan their lawn care accordingly.                 
Increased thatch accumulation in the fine-bladed tall fescues may               
necessitate periodic core aerification to reinoculate the thatch                
with soil and microbes and increase thatch decomposition.                       
                                                                                
Conclusions                                                                     
                                                                                
Tall fescue cultivars differ in their rates of thatch                           
accumulation.                                                                   
                                                                                
Turf-types tall fescues accumulate thatch in greater amounts than               
forage type fescues.                                                            
                                                                                
Thatch accumulation was positively correlated to verdure and                    
total cell wall content per square meter of the cultivars.                      
                                                                                
Abstract                                                                        
                                                                                
Five turf-type tall fescue cultivars and 3 forage-type tall                     
fescue cultivars were grown for three years then sampled to                     
determine thatch accumulation.  The plots were fertilized and                   
irrigated as needed during the test.   Turfs were mowed weekly                  
and the clippings were returned to the plots.  Verdure (g/sq m)                 
and total cell wall content (TCW) per square meter were measured                
as well.  The five turf-type cultivars exhibited the greatest                   
verdure, TCW, and thatch accumulation.  `Adventure', which had                  
the highest values for all of the measurements taken had almost                 
twice the thatch accumulation of `Kentucky 31', which had some of               
the lowest values for verdure and TCW.                                          
                                                                                
Reference:  Shearman, R.C., B.E. Anderson, D.M. Kopec, and T.P.                 
Riordan, 1986.  Thatch Accumulation in Tall Fescue Turfs,                       
HortScience 21(5):1164.                                                         
***********************                                                         
                                                                                
PARSLEY EMERGENCE AND SEEDLING GROWTH FROM RAW, OSMOCONDITIONED,                
AND PREGERMINATED SEEDS                                                         
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture                                              
                                                                                
The slow germination of several Umbelliferae species such as                    
parsley, carrots, and parsnips is frustrating to the home                       
gardener.  It can be difficult to maintain good germination                     
conditions for the length of time that it can take for these                    
seeds to germinate, and the erratic and lengthy time required                   
frequently allows weeds to out-compete the resulting seedlings.                 
Osmoconditioning (soaking the seeds in either inorganic salt                    
solutions or polyethylene glycol) permits hydration but prevents                
visible germination and has been found to reduce time required                  
for germination and seedling emergence.  Pregermination followed                
by fluid-drilling (the extrusion of the seeds in a hydrophilic                  
gel into the seed bed) has also improved germination time.  When                
this technique is combined with the elimination of non-                         
germinated seeds from the seed/gel mixture, uniformity of                       
emergence is improved.                                                          
                                                                                
All of these techniques suggest ways in which an adventurous                    
gardener can improve their germination time and seedling stands                 
for these difficult crops.  Possibly of greater application to                  
the typical hobbyist is the potential for an osmoconditioning                   
pre-treatment of the seed by the seed company before it is sold                 
to the gardener.                                                                
                                                                                
Conclusions                                                                     
                                                                                
Osmoconditioned parsley seeds emerged earlier and gave higher                   
shoot fresh weights 24 days after planting than raw seeds.                      
                                                                                
Fluid-drilling of nongerminated osmoconditioned seeds further                   
improved germination performance.                                               
                                                                                
Fastest germination was obtained from osmoconditioned seeds which               
were pregerminated and fluid-drilled.                                           
                                                                                
As emergence rate increased, shoot fresh weight increased and                   
uniformity of emergence decreased.                                              
                                                                                
Abstract                                                                        
                                                                                
Nontreated `Forest Green' parsley seeds were divided into the                   
following treatment groups:  raw (untreated), osmoconditioned                   
then air-dried seeds, osmoconditioned then fluid-drilled seeds,                 
and osmoconditioned then germinated then fluid-drilled seeds.                   
Osmoconditioning consisted of submersing the seeds in an aerated                
polyethylene glycol (PEG) solution for 3 weeks.  Seeds were                     
germinated in 15 deg F aerated water.  Fluid-drilling was done                  
using Natrosol gel at 5 deg. F.  The seeds were sown in moist                   
peat-lite on the same day.  Emergence counts were made daily.                   
Total percentage of emergence, time from 10% to 90% emergence,                  
and time to 50% emergence were calculated.  Twenty-four days                    
after sowing the shoots were removed at the surface of the peat-                
lite to determine the fresh weight per shoot.                                   
                                                                                
Percentage of emergence was not affected by treatment, but the                  
time to 50% emergence was longest for raw seeds, followed by                    
osmoconditioned seeds (OCS), osmoconditioned then fluid-drilled                 
seeds (OCF), and osmoconditioned, germinated, then fluid-drilled                
seeds (OCGF), in that order.  Uniformity of emergence decreased                 
as rate of germination increased.  The authors suggest that                     
separation of germinated from nongerminated seed before fluid-                  
drilling could greatly increase germination synchrony.  Shoot                   
fresh weight was greatly increased by the seed treatments.  OCGF,               
OCF, and OCD yielded 192%, 100%, and 52% greater growth than raw                
seeds.  Other studies have shown that these initial advances in                 
seedling growth are maintained well into the life of the plant.                 
                                                                                
Reference:  Pill, Wallace G. 1986.  Parsley Emergence and                       
Seedling Growth from Raw, Osmoconditioned, and Pregerminated                    
Seeds, HortScience 21:(5):1134-1136.                                            
*********************                                                           
                                                                                
EFFECT OF STAGE OF DEVELOPMENT ON POSTHARVEST BEHAVIOR OF                       
CUCUMBER FRUIT                                                                  
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture                                              
                                                                                
Gardeners are frequently admonished to keep their cucumbers well-               
picked to keep the plant productive, but advice on when to pick                 
the fruit for best shelf-life and reasonable size attainment is                 
not frequently found.  While the purpose of this study was to                   
investigate postharvest respiration of the cucumber fruit, the                  
findings on how well cucumbers harvested at various ages keep and               
the growth pattern of the fruits will be useful for the home                    
grower.                                                                         
                                                                                
Conclusions                                                                     
                                                                                
Commercial maturity was attained at 10 to 11 days following                     
anthesis (flowering), at which time weight was approximately 50%                
of final weight.                                                                
                                                                                
Length increased rapidly until about 12 days, at which time it                  
continued to increase, but at a much slower rate.                               
                                                                                
Diameter did not increase much after 12 days.                                   
                                                                                
Longest shelf-life (stored at 20 deg C, 68 deg F) was attained                  
for fruit picked between 6 and 9 days after flowering.                          
                                                                                
Abstract                                                                        
                                                                                
Parthenocarpic cucumbers (Cucumis sativus L. cv. `Deliva') were                 
harvested at 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 20, 25, and 30 days after                         
flowering.  The fruit was measured then stored at 20 deg. C,                    
under a flow of humidified air.  Visual quality and color changes               
were observed every three days.                                                 
                                                                                
Growth was found to follow a single sigmoid curve, with an almost               
linear gain in weight from 3 to 20 days, followed by slower                     
weight increases to the end of the sampling period.  Length and                 
diameter increased steadily until about 12 days at which time                   
they continued to increase but again at lower rates.                            
                                                                                
Loss of green color and firmness were important symptoms of                     
deterioration, as was pathological deterioration.  Fruit                        
harvested 6 and 9 days after anthesis had the longest shelf life,               
31 days.  Fruit picked 12 days after anthesis had a shelf life of               
22 days.  Hence, fruit picked at a typical harvest age (11 days                 
after flowering) has a relatively long shelf life, though the                   
maximum shelf life is attained with younger fruit.                              
                                                                                
Reference:  Kanellis, Angelos K., L.L. Morris, and M.E. Saltveit,               
Jr.  1986.  Effect of Stage of Development on Postharvest                       
Behavior of Cucumber Fruit, HortScience 21(5):1165-1167.                        
******************                                                              
                                                                                
VARIETY INTRODUCTION - CRAPE-MYRTLE `ACOMA', `HOPI', `PECOS', AND               
`ZUNI', Lagerstroemia indica L. x L. fauriei Koehne                             
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture                                              
                                                                                
Crape-myrtle is the most widely cultivated summer-flowering large               
shrub or small tree in the southern United States.  `Acoma',                    
`Hopi', `Pecos', and `Zuni' are the first semi-dwarf cultivars of               
this species that combine mildew resistance and a range of flower               
colors.  Their reduced growth habits allow them to be used in                   
small-scale gardens.  They are readily maintained as smaller                    
plants than their potential size by annual heavy dormant pruning.               
These varieties are well suited for use as patio container                      
plants, foundation or specimen border plants, and as hedges.                    
                                                                                
Descriptions                                                                    
                                                                                
All of the varieties are deciduous, semi-dwarf, multi-stemmed                   
mildew resistant shrubs with recurrent bloom throughout the                     
summer.  They maintain a compact growth habit, remaining below 2                
m (6 ft 8 in) for 8-10 years, and below 3 m (10 ft) at maturity.                
Pruning readily restricts plant size.  All of the varieties are                 
very winter hardy, withstanding temperatures as low as -23 deg C                
when grown in the ground.  The tops may winter kill but the roots               
will produce abundant shoots to flower the following summer.                    
                                                                                
`Acoma' has reached a size of 3 m (10 ft) high by 3.4 m (10 ft 10               
in) wide after 15 years of growth.  The low-spreading shrub has                 
light red-purple shoots which become gray with age and                          
exfoliation of the bark.  The oval, pointed leaves are tinted                   
dark bronze when young, maturing to a deep green and turning a                  
dull red to purple red in autumn.  The pendulous, long-tapered                  
blooms appear from late June to September and consist of 90-150                 
pure white florets with pronounced golden anthers and are 15-19                 
cm (6 - 8 in) long and 9-13 (3.8 - 5 in) cm wide.                               
                                                                                
`Hopi' has grown 2.3 m (7 ft 8 in) high and 3 m (10 ft) wide in                 
12 years.  Young shoots are dark red-purple and become light grey               
brown with age.  The oval, pointed leaves have a pink overcast                  
when young, mature to dark green, and turn bright orange red or                 
dark red in autumn.  Flower panicles are elongated, 10-14 cm (4-6               
in) wide and 7-18 cm (2.8-7.2 in) long and appear from late June                
through late September.  The panicles are composed of 25-90                     
clear, medium pink florets.                                                     
                                                                                
`Pecos' has attained a size of 2.4 m (8 ft)  high and 1.8 m (6                  
ft) wide in 12 years.  The globose shrub has red purple shoots                  
that become dark brown with the exfoliation of the bark.  The                   
oval, pointed leaves are heavily tinged bronze when young, mature               
to dark green, and turn maroon to dark purple red in autumn.  The               
globose panicles, 15-20 (6-8 in) cm long and 13-19 cm (5.2-7.6                  
in) wide, appear between early July and September and are                       
composed of 140-350 clear, medium pink florets.                                 
                                                                                
`Zuni' has grown 2.7 m (9 ft) high and 2.4 m (8 ft) wide in 12                  
years.  The globose shrub has young branches heavily tinted with                
red which become light brown grey with age.  The glossy, leathery               
leaves are oval and pointed.  When young the leaves are red-                    
tinged with more color on leaf margins, maturing to dark green,                 
and turning orange red to dark red in autumn.  The ovate                        
panicles, 8-14 cm (3.2-5.6 in) long and 8-13 cm (3.2-5.2 in)                    
wide, are composed of 50-75 medium lavender florets and appear                  
from mid-July through late September.                                           
                                                                                
Sources:  Plants will become available from various wholesale                   
nurseries as their numbers are increased.  Consumers who are                    
interested in these varieties should check with their local                     
retail nurseries.                                                               
                                                                                
Reference: Egolf, Donald R. 1986.  `Acoma', `Hopi', `Pecos', and                
`Zuni' Lagerstroemia, HortScience 21(5):1250-1252.                              
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Monthly Notes - February 1988                                                   
                                                                                
Herbaceous Plants                                                               
                                                                                
* Design a flower bed for a shady area. Plan to try impatiens,                  
foxgloves, begonias,and browallia.                                              
                                                                                
* Watch for signs of growth in early spring bulbs.  When foliage                
is 1" high, gradually start removing mulch.  Cloudy days are best               
for the initial exposure of the leaves to strong sunlight which                 
can burn tender foliage.                                                        
                                                                                
* Pinch off early buds from developing pansies to encourage                     
plants to branch and form more buds.                                            
                                                                                
* Order perennial plants and bulbs now for cut flowers this                     
summer. Particularly good choices are phlox, daisies, dahlias,                  
cosmos, asters, gladiolus, and lilies.                                          
                                                                                
* Ageratum, begonia, marigold, and petunia seed can be started                  
indoors now. Sprinkle the small seeds sparingly onto moist soil                 
and gently press them in.                                                       
                                                                                
* Check stored bulbs, tubers, and corms. Discard any that are                   
soft or diseased.                                                               
                                                                                
* Don't remove mulch from perennials too early. A warm day may                  
make you think spring is almost here but there may be more cold                 
weather yet to come.                                                            
                                                                                
* Order gladiolus corms now for planting later in the spring                    
after all danger of frost has passed. Locate in full sun in                     
well-drained soil.                                                              
                                                                                
Woody Ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* Broadleaved evergreens can be pruned before new growth begins                 
this spring. This will enable new growth to cover the cut                       
surfaces and exposed inner branches.                                            
                                                                                
* Shrubs for spring planting should be ordered now. Bare root,                  
deciduous types should be planted while still dormant, about 1                  
month before the average date of last frost in your area. Hardy                 
container-grown and balled and burlapped shrubs may be planted                  
anytime except during severe cold weather.                                      
                                                                                
* Watch for signs of "heaving" among your small shrubs. The                     
freezing and thawing of the ground can force shallowrooted plants               
out of the soil. Replant any that have been "heaved" and mulch                  
with 2 inches of organic material to reduce soil temperature                    
fluctuation.                                                                    
                                                                                
* It is time to transplant deciduous native plants if the ground                
is not too wet or too frozen.                                                   
                                                                                
* Branches of forsythia, pussy willow, quince, spirea, and                      
dogwood can be forced for indoor bloom. Make long, slanted cuts                 
when collecting the branches and place the stems in a vase of                   
water. Change the water every four days.  They should bloom in                  
about 3 weeks.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Proper rose pruning is the key to successful summer blooms.                   
Prune roses back 25% if you want many medium-sized blooms. Prune                
back 50% if you want fewer, larger flowers. Modern roses should                 
be pruned just before the buds break dormancy after the last                    
frosts.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Pussy willows that have been forced can be halted at any stage                
of their development simply by removing them from water. They                   
will keep perfectly for years.                                                  
                                                                                
Landscape                                                                       
                                                                                
* Many maples such as striped bark maple and paperbark maple have               
beautiful and unusual bark.  Another fine but little-known maple                
with very attractive bark is the Manchurian snakebark maple. Its                
bark is a rich green to green-purple with numerous vertical white               
stripes, eye-catching in all seasons.  Plan to use these to liven               
up the winter landscape for next year.                                          
                                                                                
* Check valuable trees and shrubs for tent caterpillar egg masses               
and bag worms.  Remove them to reduce the number of destructive                 
pests this spring.  Tent caterpillar egg masses are gray and                    
varnished looking and form a collar around twigs, while bagworms                
look somewhat like a pine cone hanging at the end of branches.                  
                                                                                
* To plant bare-rooted trees and shrubs, prune off dead or                      
damaged roots and plant in a hole large enough to accommodate the               
roots when spread in a natural shape.  Contrary to earlier                      
recommendations, it is no longer suggested that you prune the top               
to compensate for the loss of roots caused by transplanting.                    
Research has found no evidence that this helps the plant, and                   
there is a possibility that pruning removes carbohydrate reserves               
that the plant could use to grow new roots.                                     
                                                                                
* Prune most shrubs and trees on warm days this month after the                 
coldest weather is past in your area. In the cooler mountain                    
areas of Virginia wait until late February. Wait until after                    
bloom to prune your spring flowering shrubs in order to get                     
maximum blossoms.                                                               
                                                                                
* Remove honeysuckle and other weedy vines from deciduous plants                
while the plants are still leafless. It's easier then to                        
distinguish between the weeds and desired plants.                               
                                                                                
* Root pruning will enhance success of transplanting trees and                  
shrubs, if you can wait until next year to move them.  This                     
spring use a sharp spade to cut a circle 8 inches deep around the               
plant. (Distance from the trunk will depend on plant size; a                    
small shrub may only require a circle of 1 foot in diameter while               
a larger plant will require a larger circle.)  Many new fibrous                 
roots will grow from the cut ends of the old roots.  This will                  
make transplanting to the new location next spring much easier on               
the plant, because a much greater percentage of its roots will                  
move with it.  Dig the root ball so that it is several inches                   
wider in diameter than the root pruning circle.                                 
                                                                                
* Water shrubs in your landscape throughout the winter if the                   
soil is dry. Evergreen plants transpire water from their leaves                 
whenever the air temperature is above 40 degrees F.                             
                                                                                
* Cold winds this month should remind you to order evergreen                    
windbreaks. Some suggestions: American arborvitae, Austrian pine,               
Canadian hemlock, white spruce.                                                 
                                                                                
* Plan to attend garden and landscape meetings and clinics which                
are arranged by the extension agents in your county or city. The                
latest and best in gardening information will be presented. Call                
your local office to find out what is offered in your area.                     
                                                                                
* Late winter is the time to prune many deciduous trees.  Look                  
over your plants now and remove dead, dying, or unsightly parts                 
of the tree, sprouts growing at or near the base of the tree                    
trunk, crossed branches, and V-crotches.                                        
                                                                                
* If bird feeding has been a favorite activity this winter, order               
trees and shrubs which provide cover and small fruits for your                  
feathered friends. Consider species such as crabapple, hawthorn,                
holly, dogwood, and pyracantha which can help lure hungry birds                 
from cultivated fruits, if planted on the opposite side of the                  
yard.                                                                           
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* "Chitting" is the green-sprouting of seed potatoes for quicker                
rooting and up to 3 weeks earlier maturity.  Chitting is acheived               
by placing seed potatoes either in full sunlight or under                       
florescent lights 3 weeks prior to planting.                                    
                                                                                
* Before working an area in the garden for early spring planting,               
check the soil.  It should be dry enough to crumble in your hand                
before you work it.                                                             
                                                                                
* Check any vegetables you have in storage. Use or dispose of any               
that show signs of shriveling or rotting.                                       
                                                                                
* If you have a sandy soil which dries out extra fast in the                    
summer, you may want to experiment with gardening in a                          
depression. Prepare the soil in a hole or trough several inches                 
below the surface of the paths to reduce evaporation and make                   
watering easier.                                                                
                                                                                
* Plan on hanging a few vegetables on your porch or deck for a                  
convenient harvest.  Bush cucumbers, small tomato varieties, and                
even lettuce and spinach can be grown in hanging baskets. Many                  
herbs including chives, parsley, and thyme are also well-suited                 
to baskets.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Gardening in a raised bed improves drainage and gives an                      
earlier start in areas with cold, wet soil.                                     
                                                                                
* Work the area for early spring garden crops as soon as pos-                   
sible. Apply lime if your soil tests indicate a need. Peas,                     
onions, and Irish potatoes can be planted before March 1 in                     
eastern Virginia.                                                               
                                                                                
* Onion seeds for transplants can be sown indoors early this                    
month.                                                                          
                                                                                
* This year plan to grow at least one new vegetable that you've                 
never grown before; it may be better than what you are already                  
growing. The new dwarf varieties on the market which use less                   
space while producing more food per square foot may be just what                
you're looking for.                                                             
                                                                                
* Send off seed orders early this month to take advantage of                    
seasonal discounts. Some companies offer bonus seeds of new                     
varieties to early buyers.                                                      
                                                                                
* Planning pays off in the intensively cultivated vegetable                     
garden. If you are a novice vegetable gardener, request Publicat-               
ion 426-836, "Guide to the Beginning Gardener" from your local                  
extension agent. If you are more experienced but have specific                  
questions, there are over 30 fact sheets available to assist you.               
                                                                                
* In most of Virginia it's too early to start all but your                      
slowest growing vegetable (such as onions), but it's not too                    
early to start getting ready. Gather and wash seeding flats.                    
Treat with a 1:10 bleach solution to kill micro-organisms.                      
Collect pots for transplanting seedings such as styrofoam cups,                 
3-inch deep bands cut from quart milk jugs, etc.                                
                                                                                
* If your asparagus bed's pH is too low, you can apply lime or                  
wood ashes. To find out how much, test your soil through the                    
extension service. The ideal pH for aspargus is 6.0 to 6.8.                     
                                                                                
* For an early crop, sow spinach seed in well-drained soil which                
was turned over in autumn. Cover lightly with straw.                            
                                                                                
* Don't start your vegetable plants indoors too early. Six weeks                
ahead of the expected planting date is early enough for the                     
fast-growth species. Eight weeks allows enough time for the                     
slower-growing types.                                                           
                                                                                
Fruits and Nuts                                                                 
                                                                                
* If you want to raise fruit in your garden, try grapes,                        
raspberries, or strawberries. It is much less difficult to                      
succeed with them than with tree fruits, and you'll get much                    
faster results.                                                                 
                                                                                
* To produce insect and disease free fruit trees require a                      
thorough spray program, proper pruning, and good care. Give                     
thought to this before planting a backyard orchard.                             
                                                                                
* Ever wonder why apricots don't set much fruit in Virginia? It                 
is because of the warm days in February or March that encourage                 
the apricot to break dormancy and bloom - only to be followed by                
more freezing weather that kills the developing fruit.                          
                                                                                
* Native chestnuts cannot be grown because of their susceptibil-                
ity to blight. If you would like to have chestnuts, plant the                   
grafted Chinese varieties such as Crane, Nanking, or Orrin. These               
are fine trees for the landscape and will produce nuts within a                 
3-4 years after they are planted.                                               
                                                                                
* Peaches grow best when maintained with an open center (no                     
central leader). Keep three or four strong scaffold branches                    
evenly distributed around the trunk. Limbs which branch out at a                
60 degree angle are preferred, but spreaders can be used to widen               
narrow crotch angles.                                                           
                                                                                
* Grape vine prunings can be made into attractive wreaths.                      
Decorate them with hearts or birds' nests or shape them into a                  
heart over a wire frame for use as Valentine gifts.                             
                                                                                
* Blueberries are somewhat self-sterile. Be sure to plan for more               
than one variety to enhance pollination necessary for fruit. High               
bush blueberries make attractive ornamental hedges with bright                  
red fall color.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Prune fruit trees and grapes in late February or early March                  
after the worst of the winter cold is passed but before spring                  
growth begins.  For disease and insect control, cut out dead wood               
and dispose of the prunings.                                                    
                                                                                
* Fertilize fruit trees as soon as possible after the ground                    
thaws but before blossom time.                                                  
                                                                                
* Nut and fruit trees should be planted 3-4 weeks before your                   
last killing frost in the spring.                                               
                                                                                
* Fruit trees such as peaches, pears, apples and plums can be                   
sprayed now with dormant oils to reduce insect problems.                        
                                                                                
* Apple and pear trees are best trained with a modified central                 
leader. Prune to maintain a pyramidal shape--wide at the bottom,                
gradually tapering toward the top. Contact your extension agent                 
for more complete instructions.                                                 
                                                                                
Indoor Plants                                                                   
                                                                                
* As a mid-winter project grow plants from fruit seeds. Oranges,                
grapefruits, lemons, tangerines, and pomegranates may have viable               
seed.  Try germinating them in a light potting soil mixture                     
containing half peat moss.  Keep seeds well watered and in a warm               
location.  If seedlings fail to appear in six weeks, try again.                 
Citrus plants grown from seeds generally will not produce flowers               
or fruit, but they will have attractive shiny-leaved foliage.                   
                                                                                
* Tired of your Christmas poinsettia?  Don't feel guilty if you                 
toss it out.  It, like the Christmas tree, has its seasonal                     
symbolism that many of us prefer to keep intact.                                
                                                                                
* Good air circulation is absolutely necessary for cacti and                    
succulents.  Avoid placing them in hot, stuffy areas.  Be sure                  
the indoor garden is well ventilated, yet not drafty.                           
                                                                                
* Research has shown that some leaf shine products for household                
plants can reduce the amount of light reaching the interior of                  
the leaves, where food is manufactured photosynthetically.  Using               
weeping figs as subjects, it was shown that surfaces of leaves                  
treated with leaf shine products reflect significant amounts of                 
light instead of absorbing it.  Low-light conditions plus use of                
leaf shine compounds could add up to unhealthy plants!                          
                                                                                
* Never fertilize a plant in dry soil.  The fertilizer could burn               
roots in need of water.  It's better to water plants a couple of                
hours before fertilizing.                                                       
                                                                                
* On mild, sunny days be sure to ventilate cold frames and green-               
houses to avoid excessive heat.                                                 
                                                                                
* The fumes produced by kerosene heaters in a small home                        
greenhouse may damage plants.                                                   
                                                                                
* Avoid overcrowding in the greenhouse and hotbed. Crowding can                 
lead to trouble in the middle of winter when the ventilators are                
rarely opened. Still, damp air encourages fungus diseases, and                  
the soft new growth made by the plants invites aphid infestation-               
 -particularly when crowding occurs.                                            
                                                                                
Tools and Equipment                                                             
                                                                                
* Repair and paint window boxes, lawn furniture, tools and other                
items in preparation for outdoor gardening and recreational use.                
                                                                                
* Make labels for this spring's garden.  Plastic milk jugs or                   
bleach bottles cut in strips 1 inch by 6 or 7 work well. Use                    
permanent ink markers to write on them.                                         
                                                                                
*The common, inexpensive, alcohol thermometer often varies more                 
than three degrees from the true temperature, which can result in               
wasted fuel or improper plant growth in greenhouses. To check                   
thermometer's accuracy, immerse it in a container of crushed ice                
and water for 3 to 4 minutes. Any deviation from 32 degrees can                 
then be marked on the scale, or the tube may be moved up or down                
to match the 32 degrees reading.                                                
                                                                                
* Start building up your supply of gardening aids such as plastic               
milk jugs for hot caps and orange juice cans to make guards to                  
stop cut worms.                                                                 
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* Pressed flowers collected last summer or pictures from your old               
garden catalogs can be used to add a romantic floral touch to an                
old-fashioned valentine.                                                        
                                                                                
* Use some of the coldest days of February to sit by a fire and                 
read a good gardening book. It will give you ideas and inspira-                 
tion for the spring.                                                            
                                                                                
* To make old hay and manure weed-free, spread them on the soil                 
in late winter, water well, and cover with black plastic. Weed                  
seeds will sprout in a few days of warm weather, then will be                   
killed by frost and lack of light.                                              
                                                                                
* Surprise a friend or relative with a subscription to The                      
Virginia Gardener for Valentine's Day.  Send a $5.00 check,                     
payable to Treas., Va. Tech, to The Virginia Gardener, Va. Tech                 
Extension Distribution Center, 112 Landsdowne St., Blacksburg,                  
VA, 24060, along with the name and address of the person you'd                  
like to please.  They will receive 12 issues of timely, accurate                
gardening information tailored to Virginia gardens.                             
                                                                                
* If you seek unusual glass vases for cut flowers, try test tubes               
and beakers, available from hospital supply stores and catalogs.                
They come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Offering a full view                
of stems, they add a new dimension to flower arranging.                         
                                                                                
* For those who enjoy growing annual herbs but are frustrated by                
the number of extra seed in each packet, make a thoughtful gift                 
for friends or co-workers. On a card draw a design for a small                  
herb garden, then divide the seed from the packet into small                    
envelopes such as a stamp collectors use. Tape the seed to the                  
garden plan and offer a few cultural hints.                                     
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Press Releases - February 1988                                                  
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by Ellen M. Silva, Extension                
Technician working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Consumer            
Horticulture, using material provided by Don Davis, City of Lynchburg           
Extension Agent, and Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab. The                
Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed for agent use in           
preparing radio and newspaper features and other educational programs.          
                                                                                
Preparing a Garden Plan				74 lines                                             
Pruning Evergreen Shrubs			    108 lines	                                       
Ornamental Onion					37 lines                                                   
Pales Weevil						48 lines                                                      
1988 All America Selections			65 lines                                          
Sexes in Ornamental Plants			47 lines                                           
*********************                                                           
                                                                                
Preparing a Garden Plan                                                         
                                                                                
A little time spent planning your vegetable garden will help things             
run smoothly from planting day through harvest.  If you are starting            
a new garden, locate it in a spot with good soil and at least eight             
hours of uninterrupted sunshine during the summer.  Choose a site               
where water is readily available, for vegetables need abundant                  
moisture.	Plant away from your house to prevent vegetables from                 
picking up soil toxins that may be present as the result of                     
chemicals applied around the foundation for termite control.  In                
older homes, paint that has fallen from the walls to the ground may             
carry lead, another health hazard.                                              
                                                                                
Scan the nearby vegetation before you dig a garden plot.  Large                 
black walnut and butternut trees growing by the garden spell                    
trouble, due to the juglone exuded from their roots.  Tomatoes and              
related crops wither away when grown near these trees.  Any nearby              
trees will compete with the garden for water, nutrients, and light.             
                                                                                
You might consider switching from a conventional garden laid out in             
rows to raised beds which will avoid much work and back strain.                 
Beds three or four feet wide allow you to work the soil and care for            
plants without ever standing on it.  They can be any length,                    
depending on the area available, but a cross path every 20 feet or              
so will prevent the need to walk a great distance to get to the                 
other side of the bed.  Adding compost, manure, and topsoil to the              
bed raises its level, and many beds are framed with well aged                   
railroad ties or landscape timbers.                                             
                                                                                
The deep, rich soil in raised beds permits intensive planting.                  
Arrange your crops in blocks instead of rows and use an equidistant             
spacing pattern to create a nearly solid leaf canopy or "living                 
mulch".  Less room is wasted on walkways in raised bed gardens.                 
                                                                                
Save space with the use of fences or trellises for cucumbers,                   
tomatoes, and pole beans.  Interplant slow and fast growers in the              
same row to save space (i.e. radishes with carrots, lettuce with                
tomatoes).                                                                      
                                                                                
Planning a garden requires more than figuring out where you are                 
going to plant something; you also need to figure out when you will             
plant it.  Take advantage of all of the time available to you for               
gardening.  Plant cool season crops such as spinach, lettuce, and               
cole crops both spring and fall.  Plan to precede a warm weather                
crop such as tomatoes with a quick growing cool season crop such as             
lettuce.  Cool season crops such as peas can be followed by quick               
growing warm season crops like bush beans.  Sometimes careful                   
planning can get 3 crops out of one plot of ground in a single                  
growing season.                                                                 
                                                                                
In order to take advantage of your careful planning, be sure to have            
all of your supplies on hand.  Order seeds early, and have                      
transplants started early enough to be ready when you need them in              
the garden.                                                                     
                                                                                
In considering what to plant, choose vegetables that you and your               
family truly enjoy; why waste your time and effort on growing things            
that won't be eaten?  Also, look for vegetables that will give the              
best return on your time and land investment.  Some top performers              
in this area are tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, and summer squash.               
                                                                                
It's fun to try something new each year.  Plant sweet onions, or the            
latest rage in gourmet restaurants, miniature vegetables.  How about            
the red and the green chicory varieties called raddichio, currently             
stylish in salads from Paris to New York.                                       
                                                                                
There are numerous varieties of each crop to consider.  Choose                  
varieties resistant to disease, pests and drought whenever possible.            
Some of the better performers under local conditions are listed on              
extension's publication 426-480 -  Vegetable Varieties for Virginia.            
Other extension publications you may find useful in planning your               
garden include 426-313 - Soil Preparation, 426-331 - Vegetable                  
Planting Guide, and 426-836 - Guide for Beginning Gardeners.                    
*******************                                                             
                                                                                
Pruning Evergreen Shrubs                                                        
                                                                                
Most evergreen shrubs are better off pruned in early spring just                
before new growth begins.  When pruned toward the end of dormancy,              
evergreens will sprout growth to hide pruning scars and new shoots              
will harden off by fall.                                                        
                                                                                
Two basic pruning cuts are useful in pruning evergreens - heading               
and thinning.  Heading refers to shortening a branch by cutting it              
back to just above a bud or smaller branch.  Thinning involves                  
removing a branch at its point of origin, which could be a trunk or             
the ground.  Heading causes a proliferation of new shoots below each            
cut, and gives plants a stiff, formal appearance in the long run.               
Thinning creates gaps for light to penetrate thick foliage, and it              
results in a more open, informal effect that reflects an evergreen's            
natural growth habit.  Use both techniques to control plant size and            
maintain attractive features.                                                   
                                                                                
Broadleaf and needleleaf evergreens differ in their response to                 
pruning.  Broadleafs generally respond well to pruning, while                   
needleleaf evergreens are less tolerant of pruning.                             
                                                                                
The various species of shrubs also vary in their responses to                   
pruning.  The small round leaves of Japanese holly, a shrub commonly            
planted around homes,  tolerate shearing (an extreme form of                    
heading), though this practice produces a plant more at home in a               
formal boxwood garden than a suburban yard.  A better way to prune              
Japanese holly is using hand pruners to snip individual branches                
back to a reasonable length.  Head back each branch by six to 12                
inches and then thin out crowded stems.  Vary the amount cut with               
each stroke to avoid an unnaturally flat outer surface.                         
                                                                                
Helleri and dwarf Chinese holly grow in dense mounds that remain                
short and rarely require heading.  Occasional thinning eases crowded            
branches and encourages leaf growth on inner stems.                             
                                                                                
Burford holly can tolerate light or severe pruning.  Prune it as you            
would Japanese holly, cutting one branch at a time with hand                    
pruners.  Hedge clippers take less time and effort, but they lead to            
a thick layer of leaves around the outside and bare stems on the                
inside.  They also spoil a holly's natural form and branching habit.            
The resultant cut leaf edges are brown and unattractive as well.                
                                                                                
Boxwoods have finer stems than hollies.  Prune them by simply                   
snapping out 6-8 inch long twigs by hand over the canopy of the                 
plant to increase light penetration.  Thinning, good for all                    
evergreens, is essential for English boxwood.  These shrubs grow a              
canopy of leaves so dense that damp, dark conditions develop                    
inside.  Since fungus diseases thrive in such places, an annual                 
thinning operation will help keep English boxwood healthy.                      
                                                                                
Any holly or boxwood too large for its location may be pruned until             
nothing but bare branches remains.  New leaf buds, though hard to               
see, are numerous enough to give abundant fresh growth in summer.               
It will take several years for either of these plants to fully                  
regain their beauty, but such heavy pruning is possible, if                     
necessary.  Another alternative for oversized Burford holly and                 
boxwood is to prune them into a tree shape by removing their lower              
branches.  The bare trunks often have interesting shapes and are                
much less bulky than the bush form.                                             
                                                                                
Greater care needs to be taken with needleleaf evergreens.  Tall                
growing junipers withstand moderately heavy pruning if done just                
before growth starts.  Use hand pruners to head back branches grown             
too long, and thin out crowded stems.  Ground cover junipers only               
require heading of new growth at the tips and thinning the oldest               
runners.                                                                        
                                                                                
Never shear junipers with hedge clippers.  This practice removes                
their characteristic pointed twigs, resulting in highly unnatural               
shapes.  Once you shear too much, cutting back to leafless wood or              
dead zone, the juniper will stay brown and leafless.  Always allow              
some tufts of foliage to remain below each cut.                                 
                                                                                
Arborvitae also contain a dead zone where heavy shade causes inner              
needles to wither away.  As with juniper, all cutting should be                 
above this zone.  Neglected plants are difficult or impossible to               
bring down to size without pruning into the dead  zone, and they are            
best replaced.  A light yearly pruning starting when the plant is               
small will help keep its size within bounds, though a better                    
solution is to choose a variety whose mature size is correct for its            
location.                                                                       
                                                                                
There is more margin for error with yews.  These shade-loving                   
needleleaf evergreens will sprout fresh growth when pruned as much              
as 50 percent.  Hemlocks are also very tolerant of pruning and are              
one of the few needleleaf evergreens recommended for use in sheared             
hedges.  However, do not prune into the dead zone of a hemlock or               
the plant will die.                                                             
                                                                                
Pruning of evergreen hedges involves a few special features.  While             
most evergreens should be pruned in very early spring, hedges should            
be pruned after most of the new growth has been made.  This allows              
shaping of the new growth.  Whether shearing the plants into a                  
formal hedge or heading back and thinning individual branches to                
maintain an informal hedge, be certain that the base of the hedge is            
wider than the top.  This allows sunlight to reach all parts of the             
plant, preventing a top-heavy hedge whose lower foliage has died                
away for lack of light.                                                         
                                                                                
You should also delay pruning flowering evergreens until later in               
the spring, after they have bloomed.  Earlier pruning removes the               
flower buds and eliminates the floral display for the year.  When               
pruning rhododendrons, be aware that a branch pruned back below all             
buds, either dormant or growing, will die back to the trunk.  Either            
remove the entire branch or leave a few leaves and buds at the tip              
of the branch.                                                                  
*******************                                                             
                                                                                
Ornamental Onion                                                                
                                                                                
Allium giganteum, commonly known as the ornamental onion or giant               
onion, is a great eye catching plant. For approximately three weeks             
in June, it displays large, deep lilac flower balls about 4-5 inches            
in diameter on graceful, leafless stalks rising from the midst of               
the foliage. Its bluish-green foliage is hollow and straplike,                  
growing about a foot and a half long with each leaf approximately               
two inches wide. This member of the amaryllis family can reach a                
height of three and a half feet, making it ideal for background                 
plantings in a bed or border.                                                   
                                                                                
The bulb of the ornamental onion should be planted in fall                      
(September to October) six inches deep in well-drained areas which              
receives full sun. Each should be placed 12-18 inches apart, or 10              
bulbs per square yard, to insure sufficient room for growth. The                
plants should be lightly fertilized when the leaves first emerge.               
Following package instructions, spread a complete fertilizer on the             
soil or mulch.  Spring rains will wash it down to the roots.  Keep              
the soil moist throughout the growing season. In the winter the                 
bulbs require cold nights with soil temperatures below 45 degrees F.            
                                                                                
                                                                                
The ornamental onion is usually propagated from a bulblet, a little             
bulb that grows at the base of the original bulb.  The bulblets may             
be separated from the mother bulb in early fall. It is also                     
reproduced by seed.  The seedlings may require three years before               
flowering whereas the bulblet usually takes only one. Unlike several            
other Alliums, A. giganteum will not become invasive.                           
                                                                                
The ornamental onion grows well throughout Virginia without any                 
special growth requirements. Although it is a tall plant, staking               
need not be considered except in especially windy areas. Pest                   
problems are practically nonexistent. For these reasons, Allium                 
giganteum is an especially interesting plant to include in an                   
outdoor garden. Its ornamental value can extend indoors as a                    
long-lasting fresh cut or dried flower.                                         
***********                                                                     
                                                                                
Pales Weevil                                                                    
                                                                                
The pales weevil is a reddish-brown to black, 1/3 inch long, robust             
weevil that frequently causes problems in Christmas tree                        
plantations.  Stumps left from the previous year's harvest provide              
ideal breeding sites for the weevil.  Females that have overwintered            
in the ground litter are attracted to the odor of fresh pine resin              
in the spring.  They lay eggs in the inner bark of new stumps.  The             
white, C-shaped, 1/2 inch long larvae tunnel from a few inches to               
several feet into the roots of the dead stumps during the summer.               
Adults emerge in late summer to early fall and spend their days in              
the litter around the trees and move onto the trees to feed at                  
night.  Later in the fall, they move to the litter to overwinter.               
                                                                                
The pales weevil adults cause the damage to the trees.  They feed on            
the stem bark of seedlings and on the shoot and branch bark of older            
pines and other conifers.  Seedlings are easily killed by this                  
feeding and shoot tips die when heavy feeding causes girdling of the            
branch.  This thins the Christmas tree and lowers its value.                    
                                                                                
Signs of pales weevil infestation are yellow and brown shoot tips               
and small, irregular patches of exposed wood on seedling stems or at            
the bases of flagged shoots on large trees.  Pitch may ooze from the            
wounds or the scars may be partially calloused.  The larvae can be              
detected by removing root bark from dead stumps to reveal the                   
insects in the galleries that run along the grain of the wood.  The             
adults may be located on warm nights between April and September by             
spreading a white sheet under a tree at night and shaking the tree.             
The weevils will fall onto the sheet.  They may also be attracted               
with baits of freshly cut pine branches.                                        
                                                                                
Pales weevil can be controlled in a current crop by removing new                
stumps in early spring to eliminate the weevils' breeding sites.  If            
stump removal is impractical, drenches of registered insecticides               
may be applied to stumps and surrounding soil to kill egg-laying                
adults in April through mid-May, or in August to kill emerging                  
adults.  Alternatively, a registered insecticide may be applied to              
live trees between mid-August and mid-September to kill feeding                 
adults.  Another control possibility is to leave one whorl of live,             
pest-free branches on the stump to keep it alive and unattractive to            
the weevils.  Destroy these stumps within 3 years.                              
                                                                                
To control the weevil in future crops, delay replanting a cutover               
area for 2 years unless all stumps are removed or treated to resist             
weevil attack.  To obtain additional control, dip seedlings in a                
registered, residual insecticide before planting to prevent weevil              
feeding.                                                                        
************************                                                        
                                                                                
1988 All America Selections                                                     
                                                                                
The 1988 All America Selections have been announced.  Every gardener            
will probably want to try at least one of these exciting new                    
introductions.                                                                  
                                                                                
Shasta Daisy F1 `Snow Lady' is a very early (20 - 30 days earlier               
than most) Shasta daisy with a dwarf growth habit.  The plant will              
bloom all summer and can be used in borders or for short stemmed cut            
flowers.                                                                        
                                                                                
Celosia `New Look' is the first dwarf celosia with bronze foliage.              
Its low maintenance needs and scarlet plumes held well above the                
foliage make it highly recommended for landscape as well as cut                 
flower use.                                                                     
                                                                                
Petunia F1 `Ultra Crimson Star' is a large flowered petunia with                
crimson flowers marked with a white star.  The stars are very                   
uniform and the plants bloom earlier than other varieties.  `Ultra              
Crimson Star' also shows excellent recovery from bad weather.                   
                                                                                
Pepper F1 `Super Chili' is the first hybrid chili pepper.  It has               
improved yield and the very hot (hotter than Jalapeno) peppers are              
borne upright on the stems so the plant is highly attractive in the             
garden.  The 2 1/2 peppers ripen from green to orange, then to a                
mature red.  They can be used fresh or dried.                                   
                                                                                
Okra `Burgundy' is ornamental as well as productive.  The unique                
burgundy color of the pods does not interfere with their use in any             
okra recipe; they taste the same as green pods.  The pods retain                
good eating quality to the large size of eight inches.                          
                                                                                
Sweet Corn F1 `Honey 'n Pearl' was found to be outstanding in table             
quality of the early and attractive ears.  A shrunken gene type                 
extrasweet corn, `Honey 'n Pearl' can be stored several days in the             
refrigerator without losing its exceptionally sweet flavor.                     
                                                                                
Cucumber F1 `Salad Bush' produces uniformly dark green slicing                  
cucumbers of superior quality on a bush sized plant.  The plant                 
requires only two square feet for growth and is suited to intensive             
vegetable culture, low trellising, and container gardening.  The                
vines have improved powdery and downy mildew resistance which should            
lead to increased yields.                                                       
                                                                                
Pepper F1 `Mexi Bell' is the first pepper that combines a three to              
four lobed blocky bell shape with a pungent flavor similar to the               
very hot Anaheim pepper.  The plant is productive, early to mature,             
tolerant to Tobacco Mosaic Virus, and the foliage provides an                   
excellent canopy over the peppers.                                              
***********************                                                         
                                                                                
Sexes in Ornamental Plants                                                      
                                                                                
Many ornamental plants are chosen for use because of their colorful             
fruits.  Red holly berries, orange pyracantha berries, and white                
snowberries are just of few examples of the color that ornamental               
fruits bring to the garden.  These plants are also attractive to                
birds.  Unless the sex characteristics of the plant are known,                  
however, the homeowner may be disappointed because there may be no              
fruit crop even though bloom occurs.                                            
                                                                                
Many plants have perfect flowers.  Roses and viburnums are examples             
of perfect flowered plants.  This means that each individual flower             
has both male and female parts; stamens, which produce pollen, and a            
pistil, which contains the ovary(ies) which will produce the seed               
and hence the fruit.  This makes self-fertilization possible.                   
                                                                                
Monoecious plants are also capable of self-fertilization.  Unlike               
perfect flowered plants, monoecious plants have two types of flowers            
  male (staminate) and female (pistillate).  Both flower types occur            
on the same plant.  Birches and pines are examples of monoecious                
plants.  In either perfect flowered plants or monoecious plants,                
pollen is easily carried to the stigma of the same flower or of the             
female flower of the same plant by insects, birds, or wind.                     
                                                                                
In dioecious plants, pollination is not so easy.  Each plant has                
only male or only female flowers, so if a particular plant is the               
only one of its species in an area, pollination is impossible and no            
fruit will result.  Hollies and yews are examples of dioecious                  
plants.  In order to ensure a good fruit set on these plants, male              
and female trees must be grown within a reasonable distance of each             
other.  Although they need not be grown side by side, the closer the            
male and female plants stand, the better the fruiting which may be              
expected.  One male plant can serve as a pollinator for several                 
female plants.  It is also possible in some cases to graft a male               
branch onto a female plant to enable pollination to occur.                      
                                                                                
Identification of sexes in dioecious plants is not difficult, though            
sometimes it may require more than the naked eye to see the tiny                
flower parts involved.  Male flowers lack stigmas or have                       
undeveloped stigmas, and will have stamens.  Female flowers have                
stigmas but not developed stamens.  Obviously, a plant with fruit               
will be a female, but a fruitless plant is not necessarily a male.              
The plant may be fruitless due to lack of pollen or because                     
environmental conditions were not suitable for pollination.  Check              
the flower structure to be sure of the sex.                                     
                                                                                
Occasionally the sex of dioecious plants is important because a lack            
of fruit is desired.  Ripe ginkgo fruits have an objectionable odor             
and mulberry fruits can litter the ground.  In such cases it may be             
very useful to plant only male trees, as a female tree could receive            
pollen from neighboring sources resulting in the undesirable fruit.             
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
February 1988  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                               
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Ellen M. Silva, Horticulture Extension            
Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist Consumer              
Horticulture, using material provided by John Arbogast, Roanoke City            
Extension Agent.  The Virginia Gardener Question Box has been                   
developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper features.              
                                                                                
Hemlock Woolly Adelyid				26 lines                                              
Transplanting Clematis				18 lines                                              
Mealy-bugs on African Violets			39 lines                                        
Moldy Core of Apples				41 lines                                                
Bird-of-Paradise					29 lines                                                   
Encouraging Growth of Fruit Trees		53 lines                                     
Cutting Back Junipers				16 lines                                               
Wide Row Gardening					28 lines                                                 
Potatoes in a Barrel				44 lines                                                
******************                                                              
                                                                                
I have some nice hemlocks at the back of my lot that are fairly old,            
but they are kept trimmed every year and are really nice.  Last summer          
some of them got a grayish white covering on the limbs and trunk and            
they lost a lot of their needles.  I had them sprayed twice during the          
summer and I sprayed them myself in the early fall with Diazinon.               
When should I start spraying them this spring and how often after the           
first should I spray again?                                                     
                                                                                
It sounds like your hemlocks have had the insect pest called "hemlock           
woolly adelyid".  The most visible evidence of this sucking insect              
pest is the mass of small puffs of wax that are found on the branches           
of the hemlock at the bases of needles and on branches.  Since hemlock          
woolly adelyids suck juices from the tree, they do cause needles to be          
lost.                                                                           
                                                                                
Diazinon is the only insecticide registered for control of hemlock              
woolly adelyid.  Follow the label directions.  It is critical to spray          
affected hemlocks thoroughly with a forceful spray at a time of year            
when the hemlock woolly adelyids are susceptible to control.  These             
two times are mid to late June and late September to early October.             
                                                                                
Thus, spring spraying is not going to be of value for this problem.             
Wait until mid June to spray and then repeat in 7 to 10 days to                 
control the early generation of the pest.  Similarly, two sprays can            
be made in the late September to early October period.                          
***************                                                                 
                                                                                
When can clematis be transplanted?  Do you trim them back before doing          
this?                                                                           
                                                                                
Clematis can be transplanted in the fall, late winter, or very early            
spring before growth starts.  Pruning them back before moving will not          
necessarily be required.  If your clematis is the kind that normally            
blooms during the summer months, you can prune them back before moving          
since new growth will produce the summer blooms.  However, if your              
clematis blooms in the spring, do not prune it now, since this could            
remove the branches that will produce the blooms this spring.                   
                                                                                
Move the plant with as large a root ball as practical.  The more of             
the plant's roots that are preserved, the less the transplanting                
process will set back the plants growth.  Plant in full sun to partial          
shade, and mulch the newly transplanted vine to keep its roots cool             
and moist.                                                                      
*****************                                                               
                                                                                
Please tell me what disease looks like small bits of cotton on my               
African Violets and what to do for it.                                          
                                                                                
The appearance of what looks like small bits of cotton on African               
violets is mealy-bugs, a sucking insect pest, not a disease.                    
Mealy-bugs are soft insects that have whitish, cottony or mealy                 
substance around them.  They often leave bits of this material on               
plant or leaf stems when they move around.                                      
                                                                                
Mealy-bugs on an African violet can be controlled fairly easily by one          
of three methods:                                                               
                                                                                
   *  Use one of the ready made houseplant insect controls that                 
mentions mealy-bug control for African violets.  Use the spray, which           
may be aerosol or finger pump, as recommended.  Read all label                  
directions and precautions.  Repeat applications are usually                    
suggested.                                                                      
   *  Use a cotton tipped swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to gently dab          
away the pests.  This may be tedious, but it is effective.  Repeat              
treatments like this are usually necessary since this method may not            
eliminate all of the mealy-bugs.                                                
   *  Use a mixture of one cup rubbing alcohol, 1/2 teaspoon Volck              
oil, and one quart of water in a plant mister to gently mist the                
African violet portions where the mealy-bugs are present.  The alcohol          
will dry out the bugs.  This should be done when the violets are not            
in bright light.  Alcohol mistings may have to be repeated every 7 to           
10 days for complete control.  Do not use straight alcohol as that may          
result in damage to the plant.                                                  
                                                                                
Actually, a combination of the second and third methods should work             
well together to eliminate the mealy-bug infestation on an African              
violet.                                                                         
                                                                                
Mealy-bugs are one of the insect pests on indoor plants that may                
reappear in several weeks after an infestation has been eliminated.             
Thus, it will be important to watch the affected plants carefully in            
the coming weeks for future problems.                                           
***********************                                                         
                                                                                
I have an apple orchard of mixed varieties and ages.  My young trees            
are not yet bearing, but my old trees (about 25 years old) do bear              
well.  Unfortunately, the fruit is spoiled by a dark moldy slate                
color around the seeds and seed pockets.  What is causing this                  
condition?                                                                      
                                                                                
It sounds like the problem you have had in your apples is what is               
called "moldy core of apple."  There is not a lot of precise                    
information known about this disorder, so a solution may not be easy            
to achieve.  Stress on the trees during the growth and developmental            
period of the apples may play a role in the spread of the affected              
zone within the fruit.  The Delicious variety of apples seems to be             
the one that is most affected by moldy core.                                    
                                                                                
The disease is caused by fungi growing over the seed and walls of the           
cavity within the apple that encloses the seed.  The fungi that cause           
moldy core normally enter the seed cavity area during bloom or through          
the calyx tube (tube of the flower that carries the pollen to the               
stigma) which does not close during some years on Delicious.  About             
thirty different fungi have been isolated by plant pathologists from            
the cavity area, but Alternaria has been the predominant fungus                 
associated with moldy core.  Thus, you may read or hear about the               
disease being called "Alternaria core rot."                                     
                                                                                
As you have found with your apple trees, there is no visible external           
symptom of "moldy core."  When the fruit is cut open, however, a dark           
fungus growth is found growing over the seed and seed cavity walls.             
Under normal environmental conditions, the fungus or fungi (plural)             
are contained within the seed cavity walls.  If the fruit is placed             
under stress as a result of a drought, the fungus may break out of the          
cavity enclosure and produce a dry cork rot just outside of the seed            
cavity.  As a rule, the infected area is small.                                 
                                                                                
The fungus may also cause premature fruit drop or the rapid break down          
of the apples after they are removed from storage.                              
                                                                                
The bottom line is that little information is available on the control          
of moldy core.  With luck, your new trees of different varieties will           
be less susceptible to this problem.                                            
**********************                                                          
                                                                                
My "Bird-of-Paradise" finally bloomed and it was beautiful!  During             
the blooming process I cut each bloom (bird) as they wilted.  Once it           
stops putting out birds should the flowering stem be cut or only the            
pod?                                                                            
                                                                                
After a "Bird-of-Paradise" bloom fades, it is a good idea to cut the            
bloom stalk at the base to keep the plant looking tidy.  It does not            
hurt to remove the fading bloom at the top of the bloom stalk and then          
remove the stalk later when it fades.  Whether you follow this                  
procedure or remove the entire stalk once the bloom fades does not              
influence the continued growth or next year's bloom potential of the            
Bird-of-Paradise plant.  It is more important to grow the plant in a            
suitable size, large container.  Good growing conditions will                   
encourage the numerous healthy leaves necessary for good bloom.                 
                                                                                
Bird-of-paradise plants require bright light with at least 4 hours a            
day of direct sunlight to produce blooms.  Normal room temperatures             
will suffice during active growth periods, but they need a long, cool           
rest at around 55 deg F day and night during the fall and winter.               
During active growth water the plant thoroughly, but allow the top              
inch of soil to dry out between watering.  During the resting period,           
water just enough to keep the soil from drying out entirely.  Feed              
with a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during active growth only.             
Repot young plants to larger pots as needed each spring, but once a             
plant begins flowering refrain from repotting it as this may keep it            
from flowering for a year or two.  Instead, topdress the plant with             
fresh potting mixture each spring.                                              
**********************                                                          
                                                                                
I have set out a large number of fruit trees and they don't seem to be          
growing.  Some of the trees have been out 2 years and some of them              
have been out 1 1/2 years.  Most of them are apple but I also have              
pear, peach and cherry trees.  I have never tried to grow fruit trees           
before and really don't know how to care for them.  How can I                   
encourage them to grow?                                                         
                                                                                
The reason your young fruit trees have not grown may be poor soil               
conditions such as heavy clay, rocky soil, low levels of organic                
matter, etc., but adequate moisture is also critical for good fruit             
tree growth.  Fertilizer is not always the key.                                 
                                                                                
To get your fruit trees to grow, I would suggest the following:                 
	* Be sure that the trees receive adequate moisture during 	the                 
growing season.                                                                 
                                                                                
	* Apply a 3-inch thick layer of organic mulch like straw or                    
coarse sawdust around each tree to cover the soil over the 	root                
system but do not mulch up against the trunk.                                   
                                                                                
* Take samples from the soil around your trees to your Extension                
Office and fertilize according to the resulting recommendations.  Lime          
may be needed, too. Some soils for fruit trees need only nitrogen               
but other soils need a complete fertilizer, including P and K for good          
fruit tree growth.  Avoid growing grass around the tree for several             
years until it is well established.  If you are growing grass around            
the tree, increase the amount of nitrogen that is recommended.                  
                                                                                
In addition to following these recommendations, be aware that                   
different varieties of apples vary in their growth rates.  Spur-type            
apples are notorious slow growers for the first year or so.  Miniature          
trees, or genetic dwarfs, are also slow growers.                                
                                                                                
Proper pruning and training is important to shape the growing trees.            
Pruning at planting encourages the vigorous growth of numerous                  
scaffold branches.  This will allow greater shaping flexibility as the          
trees grow.  Apples should be headed back to 30 inches and peaches to           
24 - 30 inches at planting if scaffold branches are not already                 
present.  This causes the side branches to form low on the tree,                
enabling easy care and harvest.                                                 
                                                                                
The best fruiting will result from branches growing at about 60                 
degrees from horizontal.  Young branches may be encouraged to grow at           
this angle by using spreaders to hold them out from the tree.  Soft,            
young growth can be spread by wedging clothespins between the trunk             
and the branch, pushing the branch out to the desired angle.  Not only          
will this branch produce more fruiting spurs, the resulting wide                
crotch will be stronger than a narrow one.                                      
                                                                                
Prune the trees to maintain proper shape as they grow.  Contact your            
extension agent for more detailed pruning information.                          
**************************                                                      
                                                                                
When is the best time to cut back junipers? I have one that is much             
too big for its location.                                                       
                                                                                
Junipers, as well as other non-flowering evergreens, can be trimmed or          
shaped any time from late winter through the spring. Evergreens that            
are grown as hedges may receive two annual trimmings- once in early             
spring and then again in late spring or early summer after the new              
growth has come out.                                                            
                                                                                
You will not be able to cut junipers way back.  Do not cut back to              
bare branches.  New growth will occur only on branches that retain              
some foliage.  The only solution to your problem may be to remove the           
juniper entirely and replace it with a different variety that will not          
grow as large.                                                                  
***************************                                                     
                                                                                
What is wide row garden planting?                                               
                                                                                
Wide row gardening is a way to increase garden productivity by                  
reducing the number of pathways between rows.  Instead of alternating           
paths with single file rows of vegetables, crops are grown in beds up           
to 36" wide with narrow paths between them.                                     
                                                                                
In wide row gardening, each vegetable plant is about the same distance          
from those nearest to it. Plants are spaced so that when plants                 
mature, their leaves will just barely touch adjacent plant's leaves.            
This shades the soil below the plants, resulting in lower water needs           
and fewer weeds germinating.                                                    
                                                                                
Initially, the wide row bands are staked out with string, and seeds             
are thinly broadcast over the area. Seeds can then be firmed into the           
soil with the back of a hoe or a board.                                         
                                                                                
The wide row gardening method works best with crops that prefer close           
spacing such as radishes, carrots, beets, leaf lettuce, peas, and bush          
beans. Even though these crops prefer close spacings, the scattering            
of seeds in the row can result in crowded conditions in some cases.             
Thus, after the seeds germinate in the wide row, the plants may be              
thinned by hand or by using a metal rake, carefully raking out in two           
different directions so that the seedlings remain at recommended                
spacings.  Later thinnings of crops such as lettuce, carrots, and               
beets can be eaten as an early harvest.                                         
******************************                                                  
                                                                                
How does a gardener go about growing potatoes in a bottomless barrel,           
garbage can or a series of old tires atop each other?  I vaguely                
remember reading years ago that you can grow a bushel or so of                  
potatoes in a bottomless can, but I cannot remember the method used. I          
need this information since I am cramped for garden space.                      
                                                                                
To grow Irish potatoes in a bottomless barrel. garbage can or stack of          
old tires, a well drained, sunny location must be selected. The potato          
seed piece preparation and the planting date (very early spring) are            
the same as the traditional planting method.  Use disease free,                 
certified seed pieces just as you would in planting potatoes in the             
traditional garden method.                                                      
                                                                                
For each stack or bottomless barrel location, place two potato seed             
pieces four or five inches apart on a bare ground that has been                 
prepared with two tablespoons of 10-10-10 garden fertilizer lightly             
dug into the soil. Then, place one tire or a fairly short bottomless            
barrel or garbage can over the seed pieces to make a circle with                
potatoes in the middle. Cover the seed pieces with approximately 3              
inches of good garden soil placed inside the tire or bottomless                 
barrel.                                                                         
                                                                                
As soon as the potato sprouts appear above this soil, add several               
inches of mulching material such as leaves or straw.  It is important           
to mulch immediately after the sprouts poke their tips through the              
surface.  If the sprout is allowed to leaf out before it is covered             
with another layer of mulch it will not produce potatoes along that or          
any higher segments of stem, reducing the yield significantly.  Leaves          
or straw are added to the above ground potato container as the sprouts          
grow, until the container is full.  Add additional tires to the stack           
as needed.                                                                      
                                                                                
Care of the potato barrel is fairly simple. In addition to regular              
watering if the weather is dry, water the barrel or stack with a                
water soluble vegetable garden fertilizer according to the                      
manufacture's directions about 4 weeks after the growth begins and              
again after about a month.  After the potato blooms have died, you can          
start grubbing potatoes for use.                                                
                                                                                
During the warm part of the growing season, potatoes not needed for             
use should be left alone in the leaves or straw, where they will stay           
cool under the protective cover. Of course, as with traditional potato          
planting, the potatoes should be harvested before frost in the fall.            
                                                                                
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Research Abstract - January 1988                                                
                                                                                
The following research abstracts were prepared by Ellen M. Silva,               
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension                        
Specialist.  They are to assist agents in keeping up to date on                 
recent research in consumer horticulture.  Copies of the original               
articles including lists of varieties and scientific names of                   
plants used in the studies are available from the Consumer                      
Horticulture office.  Send requests on computer to PDRELF.                      
                                                                                
Self and Cross Compatibility in Tetraploid                                      
	Blackberry Cultivars					55 lines                                              
Earthworm Casting in Plant Propagation			70 lines                               
Growth and Fruiting Response of Young Apple                                     
	and Tart Cherry Trees to Weed Control		80 lines                                
Land, Labor, and Production Efficiency of 		                                    
	Vegetables in Variable-Sized Garden Areas	93 lines                             
Response of Potted Plants and Vegetable                                         
	Seedlings to Chlorinated Water			72 lines                                      
                                                                                
*************                                                                   
Self and Cross Compatibility in Tetraploid Blackberry Cultivars                 
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture:                                             
                                                                                
Wild blackberries in the Eastern U.S. are nearly or completely                  
self-sterile, though selections from these have been productive                 
when grown alone.  Furthermore, compatibility studies have shown                
that wild red raspberries are largely self-incompatible, but that               
nearly all British and many U.S. red raspberry cultivars are                    
self-compatible.  Very little information has been reported on                  
the self-compatibility in the cultivated blackberry.  Many home                 
gardeners that cultivate blackberries grow only one variety, so                 
information on the self-compatibility of various cultivars would                
be very relevant.  The research reported here addresses this                    
dearth of information.                                                          
                                                                                
Conclusions:                                                                    
                                                                                
Of the varieties studied, blackberry cultivars of purely                        
tetraploid ancestry are self-fertile, while those of diploid                    
ancestry were self-incompatible.                                                
                                                                                
Insects do not play a part in blackberry pollination.                           
                                                                                
Abstract:                                                                       
                                                                                
Experiments with 10 cultivars of erect blackberry (Rubus subgenus               
Eubatus) grown in the eastern United States showed that no                      
difference in fruit set resulted from self versus cross-                        
pollination for 8 tetraploid cultivars while 2 cultivars of                     
diploid ancestry showed reduced fruit set when self-pollinated.                 
Eight cultivars and two advanced selections were evaluated by                   
emasculating flowers and applying pollen either from the same                   
variety or from a donor variety.  No significant difference in                  
percentage fruit set between self and cross-pollination was found               
in the eight named cultivars which were all tetraploids, though                 
some showed reduced fruit size or seed number when self-                        
pollinated.  The two advanced selections, both of diploid                       
ancestry, showed decreased fruit set when self-pollinated.                      
                                                                                
Fruit size and seed number resulting from open pollination was                  
evaluated in greenhouse, open field, and insect-excluded field                  
conditions.  Greenhouse plants were grown in the absence of wind                
and insects, open field grown plants were exposed to both, and                  
insect-excluded  field grown plants were grown in a mesh cage and               
sprayed with insecticide to eliminate the possibility of insect                 
pollination.  Caged plants produced larger fruits with more seeds               
than uncaged field plants, possibly due to the light shade                      
provided by the mesh which may have eased unseasonably high                     
temperatures during the trial.  Greenhouse plants produced small                
fruits with few seeds.  The researchers interpret these results                 
to indicate that blackberry flowers are not dependent on insects                
for pollination.                                                                
                                                                                
Reference:  Perry, Julia L., and J. N. Moore. 1985. Self and                    
Cross Compatibility in Tetraploid Blackberry Cultivars. Hort                    
Science 20(4):738-739.                                                          
                                                                                
***********                                                                     
Earthworm Casting in Plant Propagation                                          
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture:                                             
                                                                                
Earthworm castings are becoming available to the home gardener                  
and would be simple to use in the home situation.  Castings are                 
easy to produce economically via the biodegradation by earthworms               
of various organic wastes such as sewage sludge and household and               
agricultural wastes.  Growth improvement for certain plants grown               
in castings has been reported.  These improvements are related to               
soil improvement, increased availability of mineral nutrients,                  
and the presence of various biological factors such as                          
gibberellins, cytokinins, and auxins, present in castings.  The                 
presence of these phytohormones suggests the use of castings in                 
plant propagation.                                                              
                                                                                
Conclusions:                                                                    
                                                                                
The use of castings alone in the preparation of layers initiated                
rooting faster than the use of sphagnum moss or a                               
sphagnum/castings mixture.                                                      
                                                                                
A higher proportion of stem cuttings rooted in a                                
castings/peat/sand mixture than in castings alone or in a                       
peat/sand mixture alone.                                                        
                                                                                
Abstract:                                                                       
                                                                                
Research in Italy has shown a positive effect from the use of                   
earthworm castings in the rooting of layers and stem cuttings.                  
Analysis of the castings found various microflora and their                     
metabolites, some of which are phytohormones.                                   
                                                                                
Layering experiments were performed on rubber plants, Ti plants,                
dumb cane, and striped dracaena.  Layers were prepared using:                   
a)sphagnum moss, b) castings mixed with sphagnum 1:1 (v/v), and                 
c) castings alone.  Layers prepared from castings alone initiated               
roots sooner and showed greater root elongation than either of                  
the other treatments.  The extent of the positive effect varied                 
by species.  It was most noticeable on rubber and striped                       
draecaena plants whereas less effect was noted on dumb cane and                 
Ti plants.                                                                      
                                                                                
Rooting experiments on stem cuttings were performed on Iron Cross               
begonia, rubber plant, spotted evergreen, and African violet.                   
Shoots of each species were planted in a) a control medium of                   
peat and sand mixed 1:1 (v/v), b) the control medium but shoots                 
were treated with auxins (0.5% IAA), c) castings mixed with the                 
control medium in a 1:3 ratio (v/v), d) castings mixed with the                 
control medium in a 1:1 ratio (v/v), and e) castings alone.                     
Shoots were harvested at 2 and 3 weeks to determine the effects                 
of castings on rooting initiation.  Compared to the control                     
medium, the casting mixtures promoted higher rooting percentages,               
similar to the auxin treated shoots.  Ficus and Begonia shoots                  
had the highest rooting percentages i a 1:3 castings/control                    
mixture while Aglaonema and Saintpaulia performed better at the                 
higher castings concentrations.                                                 
                                                                                
The authors note that the effects of castings were different on                 
different plants and when using different rooting techniques in                 
the same plant.  They theorize that the differences could depend                
on the physiology of the different plants and the kind of tissue                
from which rooting must be stimulated.  The authors partially                   
attribute the increases in rooting rate, rooting percentages, and               
root development to growth regulators present in the castings.                  
                                                                                
Reference: Grappelli, A., U. Tomotati, and E. Galli. 1985.                      
Earthworm Casting in Plant Propagation. HortScience 20(5):874-                  
876.                                                                            
                                                                                
**********                                                                      
Growth and Fruiting Responses of Young Apple and Tart Cherry                    
Trees to Weed Control                                                           
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture:                                             
                                                                                
Young fruit trees competing with weeds for water and nutrients                  
may have growth of the main scaffold branches reduced.  Such                    
trees may initiate flowering and fruit production at too early of               
an age, resulting in stunting and reduction of future yields.                   
Phytotoxicity and delayed fruit maturity can result from                        
application of preemergent herbicides.  Foliar herbicides with                  
little or no residual soil activity avoid this problem and are                  
frequently used in commercial orchards.  In the home orchard,                   
mechanical weed control methods are recommended.  This research                 
compares the effects of these various methods on tree growth and                
fruit production in orchards already receiving between-row, but                 
not between-tree, weed control by cultivation.                                  
                                                                                
Conclusions:                                                                    
                                                                                
Shoot growth and trunk circumference was significantly greater in               
plots receiving additional weed control between trees.  Hand-                   
weeding avoided any phytotoxicity problems and enhanced growth as               
well or better than chemical weed control.                                      
                                                                                
Trees receiving additional weed control, whether mechanical or                  
chemical, outyielded trees in unweeded plots and came into                      
production a year earlier.                                                      
                                                                                
Handweeding performed as well or better than chemical weed                      
control.  (Note to Agents:  This is important to the home                       
gardener as Virginia Tech Extension fruit tree specialists                      
recommend that home orchard growers do not use herbicides.   None               
of the herbicides used in this research are recommended for home                
use in Virginia.)                                                               
                                                                                
Abstract:                                                                       
                                                                                
Growth and production of tart cherry trees and apple trees was                  
found to be greater in plots receiving chemical or mechanical                   
weed control within the tree row than in plots receiving between-               
row cultivation only.  The study, performed at Utah State                       
University, compared shoot elongation and trunk circumference                   
increase as well as yields in `Montmorency' tart cherry trees and               
`Double Red Delicious' and `Golden Delicious' apple trees under                 
various methods of weed control.                                                
                                                                                
Weed control treatments included a hand-weeded control plot, an                 
unweeded control plot, and 6 herbicide treated plots, including                 
dinoseb (6.7 and 10 kg/ha), glyphosate (0.56 and 0.85 kg/ha) and                
paraquat (0.37 and 0.56 kg/ha).  The higher rates were those                    
recommended by the manufacturers of the herbicides while the                    
lower rates were included to determine if reductions in labelled                
rates were justified.                                                           
                                                                                
Overall weed control was greatest with the high rates of dinoseb                
and glyphosate.  Paraquat was less effective than the other                     
herbicides but reduced weeds significantly as compared to the                   
untreated controls.  All of the treatments resulted in greater                  
trunk circumference increase than the untreated controls.  Hand                 
weeding resulted in the greatest increase in trunk circumference                
growth for both apple trees and cherry trees, while the various                 
herbicide treatments produced varying results for apple and                     
cherry tree growth.  No signs of phytotoxicity were noted except                
for isolated instances where lower leaves were sprayed                          
accidentally.  The difference in trunk growth between treatments                
dissipated as the trees matured, probably due to a reduction in                 
the significance of weed competition as the trees increase in                   
size and the pruning techniques practiced in the orchard which                  
sacrifice tree growth to production.                                            
                                                                                
Yields from both apple and cherry trees in hand-weeded and                      
herbicide treated plots were greater than for the unweeded plots.               
The greatest cherry yields were from hand weeded plots and                      
dinoseb (10.0 kg/ha) treated plots.  The yield data from the                    
apple plots varied enough that it was difficult to specify a                    
single treatment that gave the best yield, though all weed                      
control treatments gave significantly higher yields than the                    
unweeded controls.  Not only did the treated plots produce higher               
yields for both cherries and apples, the treated plots came into                
production one year earlier than the untreated plots.                           
                                                                                
Reference: Rupp L. A., and J.L. Anderson. 1985. Growth and                      
Fruiting Responses of Young Apple and Tart Cherry Trees to Weed                 
Control. HortScience 20(4):727-729.                                             
                                                                                
************                                                                    
Land, Labor, and Production Efficiency of Vegetables in Variable-               
sized Garden Areas                                                              
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture:                                             
                                                                                
A great deal of research has been done on land and labor                        
efficiency in the production of vegetable crops.  Most of this                  
work has been done using large-scale monocultural operation                     
practices.  Little work has been done on small-scale                            
multicultural vegetable production, such as is done in the                      
typical home garden.  For the hobby gardener, small scale gardens               
reduce weeding time, increase yield per area, and decrease the                  
possibility of discouragement and quitting.  Selection of                       
efficient crops is essential to enable the gardener to receive                  
the greatest benefits for land and time used.  The research                     
reported here employed typical hand garden tools and techniques                 
in growing vegetables frequently found in home gardens, allowing                
application of labor and land efficiency results to the home                    
garden.                                                                         
                                                                                
Conclusions:                                                                    
                                                                                
Crops with the highest ranking in this study for productivity per               
amount of land used were: carrots, summer squash, onions,                       
tomatoes, cucumbers, and beets.                                                 
                                                                                
Crops with the highest ranking in this study for productivity per               
amount of time used were: cucumbers, summer squash, cabbage,                    
carrots, potatoes, and tomatoes.                                                
                                                                                
(Note to Agents: Because of differing soil and weather conditions               
in Utah where this research was done, some variation may be                     
expected in the rankings of the various vegetables.)                            
                                                                                
Abstract:                                                                       
                                                                                
Researchers at Brigham Young University have investigated the                   
effect of garden size and choice of crop on productivity and                    
labor and found that total productivity increased as garden size                
increased, but yield per unit area decreased.  An analysis of                   
labor requirements and yield for various home garden crops                      
revealed that harvesting requires more time than any other garden               
chore.  Vegetables with the highest yield for amount of land used               
were carrots, summer squash, onions, and tomatoes.  Vegetables                  
with the highest return for time invested were cucumbers, summer                
squash, cabbage, and carrots.  Unlike many studies on vegetable                 
crops, all of the work in the garden used typical hand tools                    
available to the average home gardener and followed typical home                
gardening practices.                                                            
                                                                                
Gardens varying in size from 1.5 m X 1.5 m to 15.2 m X 15.2 m                   
were planted with beets, bush beans, cabbage, carrots, sweet                    
corn, cucumber, lettuce, onions, peas, peppers, pole beans,                     
potatoes, radishes, tomatoes, and summer squash.  The smaller                   
gardens contained only onions, carrots, beets, radishes, lettuce,               
and tomatoes.  As the gardens increased in size, crops were added               
until the full complement was in use for the largest garden.                    
                                                                                
The gardens were fertilized with dairy cattle manure and ammonium               
nitrate.  Irrigation water, insecticides and fungicides were used               
as needed.  No herbicides were used.  Every activity in the                     
gardens was timed and recorded.  Crops were picked as close to                  
prime quality as possible and were graded so that no poor quality               
produce was included in the yield data.  The trials ran over a                  
two year period of time.                                                        
                                                                                
The researchers found that while total production increased as                  
garden size increased, production per unit of land decreased.                   
This result is partly a result of the different types of                        
vegetables grown in the different sized gardens.                                
                                                                                
Harvesting was the largest single time consumer, averaging 38% of               
the total gardening time.  Planting required 23% and weeding                    
required 17% of the total, while miscellaneous jobs such as                     
watering and pest control required 22% of the time.                             
                                                                                
The various crops were ranked according to productivity per land                
used and per time required.  The ranking for productivity per                   
land used (kg/square meter) was, in descending order, carrots,                  
summer squash, onions, tomatoes, cucumbers, beets, lettuce,                     
cabbage, pole beans, peppers, potatoes, bush beans, radishes,                   
sweet corn, and peas.  The authors note that inclement weather                  
dramatically reduced the tomato crop in one of the years of the                 
study, so that under normal growing conditions tomatoes might                   
rank higher.  Ranking for time required (kg/hr), also in                        
descending order, was cucumbers, summer squash, cabbage, carrots,               
potatoes, tomatoes, beets, onions, sweetcorn, peppers, lettuce,                 
bush beans, pole beans, peas, and radishes.                                     
                                                                                
Reference: Stevens, Mikel R., C. Frank Williams, Ronald H.                      
Walser, Tim D. Davis, Bon D. Jolley, and Sheldon D. Nelson. 1984.               
Land, Labor, and Production Efficiency of Vegetables in Variable-               
sized Garden Areas. HortScience 19(5): 665-666.                                 
                                                                                
************                                                                    
Response of Potted Plants and Vegetable Seedlings to Chlorinated                
Water                                                                           
                                                                                
Relevance to Consumer Horticulture:                                             
                                                                                
One frequently sees recommendations to age water before using it                
on container plants to avoid chlorine toxicity.  However, the                   
research available on this subject is scanty and sometimes                      
contradictory.  The research reported here investigates the                     
effects of chlorine on a wide variety of common houseplants and                 
vegetable seedlings grown in soilless media.                                    
                                                                                
Conclusions:                                                                    
                                                                                
Current water chlorination practices should not adversely affect                
most potted plants and vegetable seedlings.  There are a few                    
plants, notably begonia and geranium, that do show some ill                     
effects at low chlorine concentrations.  The home gardener should               
take special care with such sensitive plants.                                   
                                                                                
Abstract:                                                                       
                                                                                
Investigation of the effects of chlorinated water on 11 species                 
of foliage plants, 8 species of flowering plants, and 4 species                 
of vegetable seedlings determined that most potted plants and                   
vegetable seedlings should not be adversely affected by typical                 
household tap water.  The research, performed at the Connecticut                
Agricultural Experiment Station, also found that germination of                 
vegetable seeds was not affected by any of the chlorine                         
concentrations investigated.                                                    
                                                                                
Plants used in this study were asparagus fern, begonia, Boston                  
fern, broccoli, English ivy, fuchsia, geranium, grape ivy,                      
impatiens, jade plant, kalanchoe, lettuce, Madagascar palm,                     
marigold, peperomia, pepper, petunia, spathiphyllum, spider                     
plant, streptocarpus, Swedish ivy, tomato, and tradescantia.  The               
plants were evaluated for their response to irrigation water                    
having residual chlorine concentrations of 0, 2, 8, 18, 37, and                 
77 mg/liter.  The 0 mg/liter concentration was considered a                     
control and was obtained by aging tap water in sunlight for at                  
least 48 hours.  The 2 mg/liter water was obtained directly from                
the tap.  The other concentrations were prepared with tap water                 
and sodium hypochlorite solution, with hydrochloric acid added to               
lower the pH as necessary.  Plants were evaluated visually for                  
growth and appearance and the dry weight of aerial plant parts                  
was determined for an objective measure of growth.                              
                                                                                
Only geranium and begonia declined in growth and appearance at 2                
mg/liter residual chlorine.  Pepper and tomato seedlings declined               
in growth at 8 mg/liter, kalanchoe, lettuce and trandescantia at                
18 mg/liter, broccoli, marigold, and petunia at 37 mg/liter, and                
Swedish ivy, impatiens, Madagascar palm, and English ivy at 77                  
mg/liter.  The remaining species showed no significant decreases                
in growth when compared to the controls.  There was no noticeable               
effect on vegetable seed germination at any of the concentrations               
used.                                                                           
                                                                                
Declines in appearance varied somewhat from declines in growth,                 
though generally followed the same pattern.  The appearance of                  
marigold, petunia, Swedish ivy, impatiens, Madagascar palm,                     
fuchsia, and streptocarpus declined at the next lower chlorine                  
concentration to that which caused a growth decline.                            
                                                                                
Chlorination of drinking water generally results in chlorine                    
concentrations less than or equal to 1 mg/liter.  This leads the                
authors to conclude that current water chlorination practices                   
should not adversely affect either the growth or appearance of                  
most potted plants and vegetable seedlings.                                     
                                                                                
Reference: Frink, C. R., and G. J. Bugbee. 1985. Response of                    
Potted Plants and Vegetable Seedlings to Chlorinated Water.                     
HortScience  22(4):581-583.                                                     
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
JANUARY NOTES 1988                                                              
                                                                                
From the Virginia Gardener Newsletter Monthly Notes, January 1983-1987          
                                                                                
Herbaceous Perennials                                                           
                                                                                
* If you want lily bulbs free from disease, raise them from seed.               
Start seed in flats of vermiculite in a greenhouse this month. Crows            
hybrids, 'Henryi', Preston hybrids and 'Princepts Creelman' seeds will          
germinate within three to six weeks. When seedlings are large enough            
to handle, transplant them into a good conventional potting soil. The           
second spring plants may be moved outside to flower beds which should           
be dug two to three feet deep as lilies require good drainage. They             
will start to bloom that summer. Be careful not to overfeed lilies.             
                                                                                
* A pot of Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum sp.) can liven up winter                
patios. These hardy succulents can remain outdoors year round and are           
especially prolific when placed in clay strawberry pots. Winter color           
can range from green to a pink or purple cast.                                  
                                                                                
* On warm days, check to see if any perennials have been heaved by              
freezing and thawing of soil. Firmly press down any which have lifted           
and cover with at least 2" of organic mulch.                                    
                                                                                
* Plan herbaceous flower beds now changes can be made early in the              
spring. Many perennials will need to be divided.  Arrange to trade              
with friends and neighbors. Designate locations in the bed for summer           
flowering annuals to supply color between spring perennials and fall            
chrysanthemums.                                                                 
                                                                                
* In warmer parts of the state, tuberous begonias and caladiums can be          
started indoors now. In mountain areas, start next month. Set root              
starts in pots or shallow boxes of rich soil (1/3 sand, 1/3 peat, 1/3           
loam). Cover with one inch of the mixture. Keep the pots moist, not             
wet, and in good light at 65 degrees F. Transplant to larger pots in 6          
weeks and set outside in the ground after all danger of frost.                  
                                                                                
* If a few consecutive warm days have caused your bulbs to nose out             
from under protective mulch, plan to thicken the mulch layer as soon            
as cold weather returns to prevent freezing by exposure.                        
                                                                                
* Start ageratum, baby's breath, begonia, statice, pansy, sweet pea             
and snapdragon seed indoors this month or next. Provide plenty of               
light.                                                                          
                                                                                
Woody Ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* Winter is the time to apply miscible oil sprays to kill                       
over-wintering mites, aphids, and scale. Use the oil on deciduous               
plants and hardy evergreens but not on needleleaf species.   Spray              
miscible oils when temperatures are above 40 degrees F but not within           
24 hours of a freeze. Because the oil kills insects by suffocation,             
avoid spraying on windy days to ensure that all surfaces of the plant           
are covered.                                                                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
* When choosing a location for new shrubs and trees, remember that              
spots that are sunny in the garden now may be shady in the spring or            
summer. Ornamentals such as azaleas, camellias, dogwood, sourwood,              
cape jasmine, spirea, mahonia, and leucothoe prefer shade.                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
* When using salt to melt ice on walks and drives, spread it carefully          
to avoid damage to nearby shrubs. Damage to needle-type evergreens              
will be evident next spring by copper and yellow tones. Damaged                 
deciduous plants will have bronze or reddish leaves.  Consider using            
sand or sawdust instead.                                                        
                                                                                
* Stamp down snow near young trees to discourage mice from nesting              
under the snow around them.                                                     
                                                                                
* Remember, trees and shrubs have an economic value. If killed or               
damaged by ice or accident, they may be covered by homeowner's                  
insurance.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Tree branches that cast excess shade over herbaceous flower beds              
should be removed in winter when they will not damage the bed as they           
fall.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Prop up ice covered branches and let the ice melt rather than try to          
remove ice from brittle branches.                                               
                                                                                
* Brush snow from evergreens as soon as possible after a storm. Use a           
broom in an upward, sweeping motion. Serious damage may be caused by            
heavy snow or ice accumulating on the branches.                                 
                                                                                
* In the colder parts of the state, construct wind breaks around                
plants predisposed to winter damage such as broad leaved evergreens.            
Drive four wood stakes around the plant, wrap with burlap, and staple           
at each corner. Consider moving these plants to a more protected site           
in the coming months.                                                           
                                                                                
* Don't delay planting a live Christmas tree especially if it has               
already been in the house three days or more.                                   
                                                                                
* Borderline hardy plants such as aucuba, camellia, and gardenia can            
be protected by a mound of soil or compost placed over the crown after          
the ground surface freezes. These may also require windbreaks or                
screens.                                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
* For added security around the home, plant thorny shrubs on property           
lines and under windows. Some very thorny ones to consider include              
pyracantha, tri-foliate orange, Rosa rugosa, and thorny elaeagnus.              
Order plants now for late winter planting.                                      
                                                                                
* Do-it-yourself landscaping projects are very popular these                    
days and provide savings in more ways than most people realize.  They           
enhance property value and can reduce the cost of heating and cooling           
bills. Doing-it-yourself saves the actual out-of-                               
pocket expense of contracting and provides indirect savings on taxes            
(for example, someone in the 30% tax bracket would have to earn $430            
to have enough after-tax cash to pay $300 for a job done around the             
home). Finally, home landscaping is great preventative therapy and              
improves one's mental health.                                                   
                                                                                
* Look at your landscape. Do you need evergreens to protect your                
privacy, reduce street noise, block the glare of street lights? Order           
plants now and in February for March planning.                                  
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
* For easier lawn maintenance, eliminate the hard to mow spaces. Put            
the bird bath in a flower bed or surround it with ground cover. Elimi-          
nate acute angles. Combine single trees or shrubs into a large                  
planting connected with ground cover.                                           
                                                                                
* Avoid heavy traffic on the dormant lawn. Dry grass is easily broken           
and the crown of the plant may be severely damaged or killed.                   
                                                                                
* Be sure charcoal chunks are removed from wood ashes before they are           
applied to lawns.                                                               
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* Check stored fruits and vegetables such as potatoes and apples for            
bad spots which may lead to decay. Discard those which show signs of            
spoiling.  Separate others into slotted trays or bins to increase air           
circulation and reduce decay possibilities.                                     
                                                                                
* Review your vegetable garden plans. Perhaps a smaller garden with             
fewer weeds and insects will give you more produce.                             
                                                                                
* Sow seeds of cool season vegetables now for transplanting in the              
garden in March and April. Use individual peat pots, or simply cover            
the floor of the cold frame with a rich soil mix and sow seeds                  
directly into it. Start broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage,                    
cauliflower, collards, lettuce, and spinach in the warmer parts of the          
state.                                                                          
                                                                                
* When reviewing your garden catalogs for new vegetable   varieties to          
try, an important consideration is improved insect and/or disease               
resistance over older plants. Watch also for drought-tolerant plants.           
                                                                                
* Continue harvesting the carrots, parsnips, turnips, and horseradish           
left in the garden in the fall.                                                 
                                                                                
* Don't wait until late in the winter to order seed. Many varieties             
sell out early.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Analyze last year's planting, fertilizing, and spraying records.              
Make notations to reorder successful varieties as well as those you             
wish to try again.                                                              
                                                                                
* Before ordering your spring seed, do a "rag doll" germination test            
on those seeds left over from last year's order. Roll 10 or 20 seeds            
in a damp paper towel.  Keep them moist and in a warm location.  For            
most crops, germination of viable seed will occur within a week. If             
half the seeds germinate and you have enough left to plant twice as             
many as you usually do, you should get an adequate stand. Otherwise,            
order more seed. It's a small investment to insure success.                     
                                                                                
* To insure fruit set for tomatoes, peppers and eggplants in home               
greenhouses, take a cotton swab or a fine paintbrush and transfer the           
pollen from one flower to another.  Swirl the swab or brush lightly             
inside each flower, one after the other. Repeat this process the next           
day.  Don't wait too long after the blossoms appear to pollinate them.          
 For most plants, the most successful pollinating can be done the day           
after blossoms open. If successful, you will be able to see tiny                
fruits as the flowers wilt.                                                     
                                                                                
* To insure next year's flowers on amaryllis, keep the plant growing            
strongly until mid-July before allowing it to go dormant.                       
                                                                                
* To prolong bloom, protect poinsettias from drafts and keep them               
moderately moist.                                                               
                                                                                
* Turn and prune house plants regularly to keep them shapely. Pinch             
back the stems of house plants to promote bushy growth.                         
                                                                                
* Check all house plants closely for insect infestations.  Quarantine           
gift plants until you determine that they aren't harboring any pests.           
                                                                                
* Overwatering indoor plants encourages root rot.  Water when the soil          
is dry to the touch.                                                            
                                                                                
* Keep winter fertilization of most houseplants to a minimum as plant           
growth is now at its slowest.                                                   
                                                                                
* House plants and holiday gift plants should not be placed on top of           
the television. This location is too warm and in most homes too far             
from windows to provide adequate light.                                         
                                                                                
* Thin leaved plants are very sensitive to transplant shock. If a               
plant wilts after repotting, encase the entire plant in a plastic bag.          
Twist the bag shut and punch two or three holes in it. Allow the plant          
to recuperate in this protected environment for two or three days.              
Resist the urge to water a wilted plant if the soil is moist.                   
                                                                                
* The low light levels of winter call for some adjustments in the               
placement of houseplants.  Bring house plants which normally thrive on          
the north side of the house to east windows, while allowing the plants          
from the east more sun on the south. Also, give the plants that                 
usually are set on the tables away from direct light a short midwinter          
visit to one of the less exposed windowsills.                                   
                                                                                
* When extremely cold nights prevail, draw the window shades or slip            
lengths of protective cardboard between plants and the glass. Move the          
most tender plants away from the window panes on the coldest nights.            
                                                                                
* If you potted bulbs of daffodils, crocus, tulips, or hyacinths in             
the fall, bring them indoors now to force them into bloom. Place pots           
in a cool window that receives direct sunlight for at least a few               
hours each day. Allow soil to dry partially between each watering.              
                                                                                
* For an interesting ornamental plant and a culinary addition, buy a            
plump unshriveled ginger root at the grocery store and plant it in a            
light sandy soil just under the surface in a 6" to 8" pot. Place it in          
a warm sunny window and keep damp until shoots appear. Water more               
frequently and fertilize monthly with high phosphorus fertilizer.               
Harvest your crop in about 8 months, saving a piece to replant.                 
                                                                                
* Fluorescent tubes lose intensity with age. If your are using quite a          
few fluorescent lamps, change a few tubes at a time to avoid plant              
damage by the sudden increase in light intensity.                               
                                                                                
* Mealy bugs on your house plants can be killed by touching them with           
a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.                                                
                                                                                
* If you are considering installing supplemental lighting for your              
indoor plants, the 48 inch, 40 watt fixture with two fluorescent tubes          
is the industry standard. Spare parts are readily available and high            
production volume assures lower costs for 48 inch than for other size           
tubes. Use one cool white and one warm white tube to obtain a light             
mix most beneficial to plants.                                                  
                                                                                
* When dusting the furniture also consider dusting the plants. Wipe             
dust from broad leaf plants at regular intervals using a cloth                  
dampened with clear water.  With the short days of winter, light                
reduction must remain at a minimum.                                             
                                                                                
* Give your holiday gift plants the best care so they can retain their          
original, attractive appearance. Keep them cool with a temperature of           
70 degrees F. during the day and 60 degrees at night. Set the pots on           
a tray of moistened gravel to maintain higher humidity.                         
                                                                                
* During the winter most houses are too dry for house plants. Humidity          
may be increased by placing plants on trays lined with pebbles and              
filled with water to within one half inch of the base of the pot. If            
you heat with wood, keep a pot of water on the stove. The added                 
moisture will be healthier for you as well as your plants.                      
                                                                                
* Force pips of lily-of-the-valley into flower; approximately three             
weeks at 60 to 70 degrees F are required.                                       
                                                                                
Tools and Equipment                                                             
                                                                                
* Do some reading on trickle irrigation this winter.  Installing a              
trickle system will save you time and water and increase your garden            
yield.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Overhaul your garden sprayer.  Inspect leather washers and the                
plunger and replace any worn parts after thoroughly oiling new                  
leather. It may be difficult to locate exact parts for your sprayer             
model.  By starting now, you'll have them by gardening season.                  
                                                                                
* Now is a good time to take advantage of off season specials on                
garden tillers or attachments.                                                  
                                                                                
* To clean crusty clay pots, add one cup each of white vinegar and              
household bleach to a gallon of warm water and soak the pots. For               
heavily crusted pots, scrub with a steel wool pad after soaking for 12          
hours.                                                                          
                                                                                
* If you have some time this winter, paint the handles of garden tools          
red. This will preserve the wood and make the tools easier to locate            
next summer when you lay them down in the garden or on the lawn.                
                                                                                
* Protect liquid insecticides from cold weather to preserve their               
effectiveness. If any product is stored below the manufacturer's                
suggested minimum storage temperature, it lose its effectiveness.  The          
most important factor in determining if the product is usable is the            
complete absence of crystals. If crystals remain after  the product             
returns to room temperature, do not use the product.                            
                                                                                
* Keep all outdoor containers turned upside down during the winter so           
water will not collect in them and freeze causing breakage.  Move               
garden ornaments such as urns or jars into the garage or basement to            
prevent damage during the cold winter season.  If containers are too            
large to move, cover them  to prevent water collecting in them.                 
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* Wood ashes will raise soil pH. Use them only if the pH is under 7.0           
based on a soil test. The safe rate of wood ash application to lawn or          
gardens is 15-20 lbs. per 1000 square feet per year (approximately a 5          
gal. pail). Remember, a little wood ash is beneficial, but a lot is             
not.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Feed the birds regularly and see that they have water. Birds like             
suet, fruit, nuts, and bread crumbs as well as bird seed. They won't            
even complain if the food is stale.                                             
                                                                                
* One solution to the deer problem found effective in Louisiana is              
rotten eggs. A mixture of 12-18 eggs in 5 gallons of water sprayed              
over an acre emits enough odor to repel deer but not offend the                 
gardener.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Spend a cozy evening in front of the fire going through seed                  
catalogs to decide what you are going to plant in this year's garden.           
                                                                                
* A fun indoor project is building bird boxes for the upcoming nesting          
season. These can be elaborate or simple; consult your local Extension          
office for easy do-it-yourself plans.                                           
                                                                                
* There are many prescriptions to keep deer from nibbling ornamentals:          
fencing, plastic netting, repellants, sprays, hot pepper sauce, egg             
whites, human hair, lion or tiger manure, and even rock music. Try a            
few to find out what works for your uninvited pruners.                          
                                                                                
* Save plastic mesh bags in which oranges usually come; they make               
ideal storage sacks for air drying gourds, bulbs, and herbs.                    
                                                                                
* Take down all those Christmas greens before they lose the freshness           
that made them so attractive during the holidays.                               
                                                                                
* Start planning now for next year's holiday gifts and decora-                  
tions. Record those items you wished you had this year (dried flowers,          
herbs, pickles and preserves) and make sure you plant appropriate               
plants for next year's harvest.                                                 
                                                                                
* Recycle your holiday decorations. Greenery used in ornaments can be           
used again in the garden. Wreaths and branches stripped from Christmas          
trees make excellent mulch for protecting newly planted                         
ornamentals. Remove the material in the spring and compost it.                  
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Press Releases January 1988                                                     
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by Ellen M. Silva, Extension                
Technician working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Consumer            
Horticulture, using material provided by Don Davis, City of Lynchburg           
Extension Agent, and Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab. The                
Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed for agent use in           
preparing radio and newspaper features and other educational programs.          
                                                                                
Plant Growth Under Artificial Light		62 lines                                   
Snow in the Garden						81 lines                                                
Flowering Gift Plants					83 lines                                              
Garden Myths							70 lines                                                     
Landscaping the Front Yard				67 lines                                          
Longheaded Beetles and Roundheaded Borers		31 lines                             
                                                                                
*****************                                                               
Plant Growth Under Artificial Light                                             
                                                                                
The driving force in plant growth is light.  Although  sunlight                 
usually gives the best results, you can substitute electric lamps               
with much success.  Plants will grow properly as long as you control            
light intensity, color, and timing.                                             
                                                                                
The light levels provided by electric lamps are lower than direct               
sunshine, but many plants can adapt.  Intensity drops by the inch               
the further the lamps are away from plants.  Adding more lights and             
moving them closer to plants increases light intensity. If faced                
with marginal light intensity, houseplant needs can sometimes be met            
by leaving the lamps turned on longer.                                          
                                                                                
When light strikes a prism, its component colors - red, orange,                 
yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet- become visible.  Each plays            
a part in plant growth, but blue light is most important to                     
photosynthesis, followed next in importance by red light.  Plants               
stay short, stocky, and leafy when they receive plenty of blue.                 
They stretch, flower, and fruit early under red light. Ordinary cool            
white fluorescent tubes are a good source of blue light, and make an            
acceptable sole source of light for foliage plants. Common warm                 
white tubes and incandescent bulbs provide the red end of the                   
spectrum.                                                                       
                                                                                
Special plant lights casting a purple glow became popular several               
years ago.  Their popularity stems from a red-blue mix of color                 
suitable for most plants and from the healthy lustre of illuminated             
foliage.  These fluorescents go by names such as Plant-Gro,                     
Plant-Light and Gro-Lux and cost much more than ordinary fluorescent            
bulbs.  They are nice to have, but not essential.  A cool white and             
a warm white combined do about the same for plant growth.                       
                                                                                
Incandescent bulbs release too much heat to be a valuable sole                  
source of light.  Their light comes from the red-orange end of the              
spectrum, causing leggy growth and rapid maturity.                              
                                                                                
The days can be long in an indoor light garden.  Plants grown for               
flowering indoors under electric lights have high energy needs and              
grow well with 14 to 16 hour days.  Flower and vegetable seedlings              
destined for an outdoor garden also require 14 to 16 hour days.  The            
lower energy demands of foliage houseplants can be met with 12 to 14            
hours of light.                                                                 
                                                                                
The distance that you place lamps from your plants varies with the              
types of plants you are growing.  Some suggested distances from                 
foliage to bulb using 48-inch fixtures holding two 40-watt                      
fluorescent tubes are 3" to 6" for garden transplants, 4" to 6" for             
flowering houseplants, 3" to 6" for cacti, and 4" to 10" for foliage            
houseplants.                                                                    
                                                                                
If plants fail to flower, stretch too much, or show pale color, they            
probably need more light.  Leaves appear bleached when receiving                
more light than they can handle, but this is rare when using                    
fluorescent lights.                                                             
                                                                                
Finally, keep lighting equipment clean and in good shape.  A layer              
of dust can cut light intensity dramatically.  New fluorescent lamps            
have the brightest light.  The lifespan of 40-watt tubes is 9,000               
hours, a little over one year of constant use or nearly two years at            
the normal day lengths.  Dark bands at the ends of a tube warn that             
it is time for replacement.  Even though the bulb still lights up,              
don't keep using it.  If you do, you'll deprive your plants of the              
full amount of light they need to flourish.                                     
 ----------------------                                                         
Snow in the Garden                                                              
                                                                                
Snow is a mixed blessing in the garden.  Fluffy and light, freshly              
fallen snow is an excellent insulator.  Its millions of tiny air                
pockets hold warmth in the soil around snow covered plants.  When               
frigid weather comes after a heavy snowfall, the snow cover may save            
many plants of borderline hardiness.  A thick covering of snow can              
protect plants from drying wind.  In your vegetable garden, snow                
protects overwintering spinach plants while keeping the soil from               
freezing too hard for digging the last of your parsnips.  Deep snows            
also replenish the subsoil moisture reserves, provided it melts slowly          
enough to seep in rather than run off.                                          
                                                                                
On the aesthetic side, snow creates an attractive scene when it                 
accumulates on and around evergreens.  Nandina, holly and other                 
fruiting plants are especially colorful against a white background.             
                                                                                
Snow can also cause its share of problems for the gardener.  Rodents            
feeding beneath the snow can girdle fruits and other woody plants by            
chewing off their bark at ground level.  Moles will continue burrowing          
in search of insects, as voles dine on your tulip bulbs, strawberry             
plants, apple trees, and azaleas.                                               
                                                                                
Branches bend and may break under a deep snow.  Shrubs with flexible            
stems usually spring back into their proper shape as the weeks pass,            
while the brittle shrubs do not.  Expect more lasting injury in the             
upright stems of tall, narrow junipers, yews, and arborvitaes.  Their           
vertical symmetry may be lost when erect branches become permanently            
bent.  Such damage is corrected by pruning or tying the disfigured              
branches in place.                                                              
                                                                                
When a branch breaks, cut it back to a vigorous bud or twig.                    
Extensive damage may require removing the whole branch.                         
                                                                                
Trees may drop branches, leaving a jagged stub that is best removed at          
the trunk.  Torn bark is often found where branches succumb to the              
weight of wet snow, and trimming it away aids the healing process.              
Injuries may be painted with a tree wound dressing, but this practice           
is cosmetic, not therapeutic, and research indicates it can be                  
detrimental.                                                                    
                                                                                
Shrubs along walks and drives take a beating from loads of snow and             
ice shoveled on top.  This could break Japanese hollies, boxwoods, and          
azaleas, though the ground cover junipers and liriopes tolerate such            
abuse.                                                                          
                                                                                
Shrubs, particularly boxwoods, growing under the eaves are at risk              
when show slides off the roof.  This is why some gardeners with years           
of growth invested in English boxwood place protective lath structures          
around their shrubs every winter.                                               
                                                                                
Another preventive approach, suitable for large American or tree                
boxwood as well as upright yews, junipers, and arborvitaes, is tying            
the plant.  Secure a stout cord on a lower branch and wrap it in an             
upward spiral while pressing the boughs upward and inward.  Simply tie          
them each fall and untie them each spring to avoid snow damage.                 
                                                                                
Knocking off snow as it accumulates helps avoid breakage, but this              
works best if done several times during the blizzard instead of once            
after the snow stops falling.  Using a broom, sweep your plants with            
gentle upward motion before the snow turns to ice.                              
                                                                                
As spring draws closer, yellow and brown leaves will appear on                  
evergreen branches broken by snow.  Prune now if the damage is                  
obvious, otherwise wait until spring.                                           
                                                                                
When snow covers grass for long periods, snow mold disease can be a             
problem.  The fungus usually attacks leaves only, but it can kill the           
whole turfgrass plant.  Irregularly circular patches of grass                   
typically look off-color when the snow melts, then turn whitish or              
pinkish.  Intensively cultivated turfs, such as golf greens, are                
sprayed to prevent snow mold, but home lawns require no chemical                
treatment.  You can minimize the disease by controlling thatch and              
avoiding excessive nitrogen in late fall.  Don't skip the last mowing           
of the year; a well-groomed lawn is much less vulnerable to snow mold           
than an overgrown lawn that will mat down under the snow.  Snow mold            
is common in shady lawns with poor drainage.                                    
                                                                                
Go easy on the deicing salt as you cope with winter.  Plant roots may           
be injured by an overdose of sodium and chloride.  If the ice lingers,          
consider spreading sand, sawdust, or cinders instead of salt.                   
 ---------------------------                                                    
Flowering Gift Plants                                                           
                                                                                
Like no other gift, flowering plants mark festive occasions, convey             
best wishes, and brighten the first weeks of winter.  Some can become           
permanent members of your plant collection, flowering every year and            
giving long-term enjoyment.  Others are more difficult to renew and,            
like a cut Christmas tree, are best discarded after the holidays.               
                                                                                
Caring for gift plants is somewhat different than growing ordinary              
houseplants.  Blooms require extra energy for growth and sustenance,            
and most gift plants will benefit from strong natural light.                    
                                                                                
Under warm, sunny conditions the plants will use more water than when           
kept in cool offices and stores illuminated by artificial light.                
Adjust your watering schedule to match the plants' needs, as watering           
too often will lead to fatal root rot.  Check plants daily by probing           
their soil with your finger, and water only when the surface feels dry          
to the touch.  When you do water, water thoroughly.  Water seeping              
through the pot's drainage holes is proof that the entire root ball is          
wet.  Do not let the pot stand in the water that drains out.  Foil              
wrappings and plastic-lined baskets are popular pot covers, but                 
allowing water to collect in them keeps soil saturated and causes root          
rot.  Water your plants with tepid or room-temperature water to avoid           
shocking roots.                                                                 
                                                                                
Blooms stay fresh and colorful longest if plants are kept in cool               
locations.  They wither or drop when exposed to cold drafts and the             
extremes of heat common near fireplaces and radiators.  Dry air can             
reduce bloom time, too.  Increase humidity by grouping plants on a              
tray of moist pebbles.                                                          
                                                                                
Christmas cactus is a long-lived plant that can bloom heavily each              
year if given the proper treatment.  Keep its soil moist from now               
through next September, then let it go quite dry.  Cacti grown dry and          
cool in fall will set buds in time for the holidays.  However, flower           
buds may drop if Christmas cactus goes too dry or if humidity is too            
low.                                                                            
                                                                                
Huge trumpet-shaped Amaryllis flowers perch atop a massive stalk.  As           
flowers fade, remove them but leave the stalk to wither on its own.             
Then grow your amaryllis as any other sun-loving houseplant,                    
fertilizing regularly from spring until late summer.                            
                                                                                
Provide amaryllis with a two month rest in late autumn.  Quit watering          
and allow the foliage to yellow and dry up, then trim it away and put           
the dormant plant in a cool, dark place until November.  At that time,          
you can start to force new growth by giving it sun and water.                   
                                                                                
Gardeners seeking maximum bulb growth often plant amaryllis directly            
in a sunny garden outdoors, after the threat of frost in spring.                
Otherwise, leave your plants in potbound condition, repotting only              
every two or three years.  Both amaryllis and Christmas cactus are              
among the most reliable indoor bloomers.                                        
                                                                                
Cyclamen is an attractive flowering foliage plant that comes from the           
store with mature blossoms as well as buds in all stages of                     
development.  Give it a cool location and all the sun possible.                 
Making it bloom again next fall is a challenge best reserved for                
experienced gardeners.  Most plant hobbyists choose to discard the              
plant after the blooming period is over.                                        
                                                                                
Christmas peppers are pungent-fruited ornamentals that remain colorful          
for weeks if given strong light and cool temperatures.  Raised from             
seed, peppers are inexpensive and easy to discard once they lose their          
red fruit.                                                                      
                                                                                
A pepper relative, Jerusalem cherry, is covered with round red fruit,           
poisonous if eaten.  Care for it as you would Christmas pepper,                 
discarding the plant after fruit drops.  Keep its soil moist.                   
                                                                                
If your poinsettia still looks good after the holidays, place it near           
a sunny window and keep the soil watered.  New shoots will appear as            
the weather warms.  Cut back the stems after bracts fade or drop off.           
If your poinsettia has gone downhill, prune it back to about four               
inches, set it near a sunny window and water often enough to keep it            
moist.  It should sprout new stems when spring comes.                           
                                                                                
Bringing poinsettias back into bloom next year is possible if you               
water and fertilize through spring and summer, pinching new growth to           
encourage good form.  Around October first, give your poinsettia total          
darkness from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m. every day.  Anything less than                   
complete, absolute darkness during these hours will interfere with              
blooming.  Continue fertilizing and watering, and your plant will show          
color by December.  When bracts start turning red, you can stop the             
dark treatment.                                                                 
 -----------------------------                                                  
Garden Myths                                                                    
                                                                                
Myths abound in the lore of gardening, clouding issues and veiling the          
truth.  The following are some common gardening myths.                          
                                                                                
***MYTH*** Botanical insecticides are natural products toxic to pests           
but harmless to other living things.                                            
                                                                                
Nothing could be further from the truth.  Plant-derived poisons are             
only sometimes less toxic to man than synthetic agrichemicals.                  
                                                                                
Rotenone, from the roots of derris plants, is toxic if swallowed or             
inhaled.  Both pyrethrum and rotenone are low in toxicity to mammals            
yet highly toxic to fish.  The yardstick for comparing acute,                   
short-term toxicity is the LD50 or lethal dosage needed to kill fifty           
percent of a group of test animals (rats, rabbits, etc.).  When you             
compare LD50 figures, the chemical insecticides malathion and sevin             
rank safer than nicotine sulfate, a botanical poison derived from               
tobacco.                                                                        
                                                                                
No matter whether the chemical comes from a laboratory or a plant, it           
pays to be careful.                                                             
                                                                                
***MYTH*** Fall is the best season for pruning.                                 
                                                                                
This is false for several reasons.  Shrubs and trees store                      
carbohydrates (food materials) in their branches and leaves, so fall            
pruning can reduce their cold hardiness.                                        
                                                                                
Azaleas and other spring-flowering plants would bloom poorly if pruned          
in fall, as next year's flower buds are present at that time.  Such             
plants are best pruned in spring right after petals fall.                       
                                                                                
***MYTH*** The soil under oaks and pines is acidic.                             
                                                                                
This is sometimes true, sometimes false.  The acidity of soil depends           
not only on the nature of vegetation growing on it, but also on the             
type of rock below.  Some soils under oaks and pines are neutral or             
alkaline, needing no lime.                                                      
                                                                                
***MYTH*** Mushrooms and toadstools sprouting in your lawn means that           
the soil is deficient.                                                          
                                                                                
In actuality, these plants are merely the above-ground growth of                
fungus organisms living in soil.  Some fungi live on buried lumber,             
dead roots, or fine particles of organic matter.  Others live in                
harmony with tree roots, assisting in the uptake of water and                   
nutrients.  A few cause plant disease.  The sudden appearance of                
mushrooms does not mean the lawn needs lime, fertilizer of anything             
else. If you object to their sprouting in lawns or gardens, use a rake          
to dispose of them.  There is no chemical control for mushrooms.                
                                                                                
***MYTH*** Moss growth in lawns shows a need for lime.                          
                                                                                
This is not necessarily true.  Acidic conditions could be responsible           
for moss crowding out your grass, but so could excessive shade, poor            
drainage, low fertility, and a host of other causes.  When conditions           
do not favor healthy turf, moss can take over.                                  
                                                                                
***MYTH*** When it comes to garden chemicals, if a little bit is good,          
a lot is better.                                                                
                                                                                
This myth is not only false but dangerous.  Doubling or tripling the            
dose of any garden input can have disastrous results.  Weed killers             
used in this manner can injure plants you never intended to harm, not           
to mention leaving long-lived residues in soil.  Over-use of                    
insecticides may kill beneficial bugs, harm plants, and render                  
vegetables unfit for consumption.  Doubling the recommended rate of             
any pesticide increases the chances of poisoning people by inhalation,          
absorption through the skin, and by other routes.                               
                                                                                
Fertilizers used too heavily will burn plants, prevent seed                     
germination, and contaminate water resources.  Even organic                     
fertilizers such as manure can cause harm if you use too much.                  
 ----------------------------                                                   
Landscaping the Front Yard                                                      
                                                                                
Winter brings a slower pace to gardening and gives the gardener time            
to think about past and future successes.  Now is a good time to think          
about the home landscape and how it can be improved.  An attractive             
front yard can enhance the appearance of your house and neighborhood.           
The expanse of lawn and surrounding plants creates the most pleasing            
picture if designed or planned rather than allowed to take shape on             
its own.                                                                        
                                                                                
How you plant the front yard depends mainly on your house.  On most             
homesites the house is the prominent feature.  All plants, driveways,           
fences, and other items are meant to complement it.  Shrubs and trees           
unite the house with its surroundings by softening vertical lines and           
making the building seem a natural part of the terrain.                         
                                                                                
The two major landscape design areas around your house are at the               
corners and doorway, as both have harsh vertical lines.  Your front             
door, a beacon to visitors, is the house's focal point and short                
plantings on either side of it are appropriate.  Taller plants are              
suitable for corners, where they will funnel the viewer's eye toward            
your doorway plants and front door.  Houses that are too tall appear            
shorter if the corner plantings extend like wings on each side, with            
the tallest plants at or near the corners.                                      
                                                                                
Trees frame the house, focusing interest on it as the main feature of           
your property.  Plant trees whose mature size is in scale with the              
house, or low houses will look dwarfed and tall houses will appear              
even taller than they actually are.                                             
                                                                                
Select trees to match the house design.  Steeply angled roof lines and          
dormer windows call for pyramidal trees such as spruce, birch, and              
sweetgum.  Trees with rounded or horizontal form, maples, dogwoods,             
and Bradford pear, are better companions for the low lines of a ranch           
type dwelling.                                                                  
                                                                                
Low shrubs and ground covers along house walls provide a smooth                 
transition from building to lawn.  Shrubs along the front wall reduces          
the apparent height of a tall building.  Having open spaces with                
natural mulches and ground covers in the planting can make low-built            
houses appear more massive.                                                     
                                                                                
The simpler a planting near the house, the better.  Use only a few              
kinds of shrubs, but plan for some variety in size, form, and                   
texture.  Consider adding areas for flowers or ornamental grasses, but          
keep these at a minimum height.  Select shrubs whose natural height             
and growth pattern fit the desired space to reduce pruning labor.               
Avoid pruning shrubs into unnatural shapes as they are difficult to             
maintain and don't always enhance the landscape.                                
                                                                                
An open lawn area can provide an impressive setting for a house.  A             
front lawn uncluttered by specimen shrubs, flower beds, and garden              
ornaments can make your property seem spacious.  Shrubs will appear             
lost and floating unless planted in groups or cultivated beds.                  
                                                                                
Flowers are most appreciated where you spend time relaxing outdoors,            
usually the backyard for modern homes, the front yard for older                 
homes.  Lay out beds with a combination of straight lines and bold,             
sweeping curves.  Numerous small, wiggly curves have low visual                 
impact.                                                                         
                                                                                
Make a big splash with flowers using large masses of single                     
colors.  Plant a group of 50 `Red Emperor' tulips next to a bed of 50           
white `Mount Hood' daffodils, rather than a checkerboard mixture of             
various colors.                                                                 
                                                                                
Home landscapes, like clothing, go in and out of style.  After years            
of growth, many yards are ready for landscape renewal and                       
improvement.  Analyze yours and proceed with a plan.                            
*******************                                                             
Longheaded Beetles and Roundheaded Borers                                       
                                                                                
Roundheaded borers are the larval stage of longhorned beetles.  They            
are secondary infestors of weakened, dying and dead trees, stumps, and          
cut firewood.  Adults often emerge from firewood that is brought into           
the house and may cause concern.  They will not infest structural wood          
and are thus a nuisance only.                                                   
                                                                                
Adult longhorned beetles are medium to large beetles, usually brown,            
reddish brown, or black in color.  They are sometimes mottled or                
banded with white or gray.  The name longhorned beetle refers to the            
very long and distinctive antenna.  The antenna is often longer than            
the body.  The thorax and wing covers often bear small stout spines.            
Adult beetles usually emerge in the spring from the host trees.  Some           
species do not feed as adults but others may spend some time feeding            
at flowers.  A few species commonly referred to as twig pruners will            
kill small branches and twigs.  Adults lay their eggs on weakened and           
damaged trees.  The larvae are elongate, cylindrical, and have large            
gnawing mandibles.  The name roundheaded borer refers to their                  
enlarged thorax directly behind the head.  They bore into the tree              
feeding under the bark at first and later boring into the heartwood.            
As they feed, they bore long holes which weaken and destroy the wood.           
Infested trees are often rendered unusable for commercial purposes.             
They may take one to several years to mature before they pupate inside          
the tree just under the bark.                                                   
                                                                                
Sanitation and prompt action are the best control against these                 
borers.  Felled timber should be removed from the woods as soon as              
possible.  The bark should be removed from the logs to prevent                  
infestation.  Wounded, damaged or otherwise weakened areas of the tree          
are susceptible to borer attack and should be pruned to prevent borer           
infestation.  Trees watered, fertilized, and maintained in vigorous             
conditon suffer few borer attacks.                                              
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
April Notes                                                                     
                                                                                
* Remove sticks, rocks and other debris from your lawn to prevent               
damaging your lawnmower or injuring yourself when mowing. Check                 
your lawnmower and other lawn-care equipment in preparation                     
for the coming season.                                                          
                                                                                
* Start herb seeds indoors in moist medium. Place in bright,                    
indirect light and move to a sunny window when germination                      
begins. When the seedlings are 2-3" tall, transplant into peat                  
pots for the garden or into clay pots for use on your terrace                   
or balcony. Some herbs early grown from seed include chives,                    
sage, sweet marjoram, basil, summery savory, dill and parsley.                  
                                                                                
* To extend the blooming period of gladiolus, plant early, middle               
and late-season selections each week until the middle of June.                  
Choose a sunny location and plant the corms 4-6" deep and 6-8"                  
apart.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Put a birdhouse in the garden to attract insect-eating friends.               
                                                                                
* Measure the rainfall with a rain gauge posted near the garden                 
so you can tell when to water. You can buy one or make one by                   
sinking a can partway into the ground and marking off its                       
interior in inches. The garden needs about one inch of rain per                 
week from April to September.                                                   
                                                                                
* Scatter annual poppy seeds in flower borders. The fine seeds                  
need no covering. The plants grow rapidly and provide colorful                  
flowers in early summer.                                                        
                                                                                
* Make a plot layout of your flower borders. This is a very                     
essential but easily neglected chore. With an accurate plot                     
plan, you will know where to locate the spring flowering bulbs                  
you plant next fall. Also, it will make your spring and summer                  
gardening easier. You will be able to correctly identify the                    
plants in your border and plan for continuous blooming by setting               
young annuals between bulbs and early flowering perennials after                
their blooms have faded.                                                        
                                                                                
* Before planting bare-root shrubs and trees, soak the roots in                 
water overnight.                                                                
                                                                                
* Interior latex type paint may be used on the trunks of newly                  
planted trees to prevent sunburn. This material is easy to apply                
and will gradually weather away and allow the bark to become                    
resistant to exposure to the sun.                                               
                                                                                
* If you are interested in exchanging seeds and cuttings of                     
less available crops, you may wish to contact one of those organ-               
izations interested in preserving the variety and quality of                    
our food crops. The Seed Savers Exchange (Kent Whealy, R.R. 2,                  
Princeton, MO 64673) which provides for exchange of vegetable                   
seed also maintains an Heirloom Seed Bank, and a Growers Network                
to multiply special collections of vegetables. The North American               
Fruit Explorers (Ray Walker, Box 711, St. Louis, MO 63188)                      
has a scion exchange and fruit testing programs.                                
                                                                                
* Aphids on your roses will cause deformed, inferior flowers. If                
aphids are noticed, contact your extension agent for an approved                
insecticide that you can spray.                                                 
                                                                                
* In the Piedmont and Mountain regions, this is the time to set                 
out cool-weather vegetables such as broccoli, brussel sprouts,                  
cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, and onions. When the danger of                   
frost has passed, transplant tomatoes, peppers and eggplant.                    
                                                                                
* Some shrubs grow best on acid soils with a pH of about 5.0.                   
These include andromeda, azalea, blueberry, camellia, mountain                  
laurel, and rhododendron. At a higher pH value these shrubs may                 
become yellow and make very poor growth.                                        
                                                                                
* Many herbs are excellent for natural appearing rock gardens                   
or formal plantings with brick pathways. These herbs do well                    
in sandy soil and are partial to full sun locations: creeping                   
thyme, sage, santolina and garlic.                                              
                                                                                
* Blue amaryllis (Hippeastrum procerum) and green amaryllis                     
(H. calyptrata) present a rewarding challenge to patient gar-                   
deners. Seeds are available from selected mail order seed                       
companies and bloom in about 5 years.                                           
                                                                                
* For a handsome addition to your herb collection, try lovage                   
(Levisticum officinale) a hardy perennial with a sharp but sweet                
celery flavor. Leaves can be used sparingly in soups and salads;                
stems can be blanched or eaten raw; and seeds can be added to                   
candies, bread, and cakes.                                                      
                                                                                
* Tree seedlings can have a strong start in quart or half-gallon                
milk cartons. Remove top and bottom and stand on a frame covered                
with 1/4" mesh hardware. Fill with a mixture of peat moss,                      
perlite and vermiculite. As the tap root grows through the bottom               
of the milk carton tube and mesh, it is "air pruned" forcing the                
development of fibrous side roots.                                              
                                                                                
* The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station reports that                  
larger plants with more flowers can be grown in a soil mix                      
consisting of 1 part sphagnum moss, 1 part peat moss, 2 parts                   
perlite, and 2 parts compost than with 4 other commonly used                    
mixes. Sphagnum moss is reported to increase aeration and                       
water-holding capacity and to suppress soil-borne diseases.                     
                                                                                
* For faster growth of vegetables in containers, use black                      
plastic pots to warm the soil---81 degrees on sunny days compared               
to 72 degrees for the same mixes in clay or white plastic pots.                 
                                                                                
* In a sunny location with poor soil, plant nasturtiums for                     
a colorful show. They require warm soil to sprout and start                     
blooming in about 50 days. Too much water and fertilizer produces               
excess leaves and few flowers.                                                  
                                                                                
* For easier watering of tomatoes and other large vegetables,                   
plant a gallon can with holes punched in the bottom nearby.                     
Watering through the can keeps water off the top of the ground                  
and puts it near the roots where it's needed.                                   
                                                                                
* Plant clematis in locations which receive at least 6 hours                    
of sunshine a day. Use organic mulch or ground cover to shade                   
roots and keep them cool. Plant in rich, well-drained loam.                     
                                                                                
* Plant dahlia tubers as soon as danger of frost is passed. Stake               
at the time of planting to avoid injury to tubers.                              
                                                                                
* Many popular perennials can be divided now including: phlox,                  
fall asters, shasta daisies, baby's breath and liriope. Set                     
up a plant exchange with friends and neighbors to share the                     
excess.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Prune spring blooming shrubs such as forsythia, weigelia and                  
early spirea after they have completed flowering.                               
                                                                                
* Thin young fruits of apples, pears, and peaches to insure                     
larger, healthier fruit. Thin within 25 days of the peak bloom,                 
leaving 4 to 6 inches between fruit.                                            
                                                                                
* Cut flower stalks back to the ground on daffodils, hyacinths,                 
and other spring flowering bulbs as the flowers fade. DO NOT                    
cut the foliage until it dies naturally.                                        
                                                                                
* Don't be too anxious to move your houseplants outdoors. Even                  
a good chill can knock the leaves off of tender plants.                         
                                                                                
* For hot weather color, select one of the following: Gloriosa                  
Daisy, Madagascar Periwinkle, Ornamental Peppers, Mexican Zinnia,               
Amaranthus `Joseph's Coat'. Plant after all danger of frost                     
is past and plan for color until winter arrives.                                
                                                                                
* A popular gift plant at Easter, the Easter lily needs bright,                 
indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist. It                  
can be planted in a sunny spot in the garden after danger of                    
frost is over, where it will bloom next year.                                   
                                                                                
* Do not cut the leaves of spring flowering bulbs, but let them                 
brown naturally, then cut off. The leaves are necessary to                      
produce strong bulbs capable of reflowering.                                    
                                                                                
* Don't overpot African violets. They bloom better in small pots.               
                                                                                
* If wisteria does not bloom, it needs careful pruning to correct               
the condition. Prune long, straggling canes and all dead wood.                  
Root pruning sometimes helps, too.                                              
                                                                                
* Did you know that you can get a free soil test?  Mailing                      
cartons and instructions are available at your extension office.                
                                                                                
* Control insect pests before they become unmanageable. Spray or                
dust tent caterpillars while they are still small.                              
                                                                                
* The lawn mower blade should always be sharp so as not to tear                 
the grass. If you sharpen the blade at home, be sure to balance                 
it too. Place the center hole of the blade on a screwdriver                     
handle held upright in the vise. Check to see if it balances. If                
not, sharpen the heavier side some more until the blade balances                
on the handle.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Once the snow melts and the surface is dry, established                       
but uneven lawns will benefit from being rolled. Depressed areas                
may be filled with sifted topsoil. Fill in the sparser areas by                 
sowing new seed.                                                                
                                                                                
* Raspberry canes can be pruned and thinned now. Removal of                     
excessive canes at ground level will improve air circulation and                
light penetration for heavier fruiting. All dead tips of the                    
canes should be cut off.                                                        
                                                                                
* Do not fertilize azaleas and camellias until they have finished               
blooming. They should be pruned, if necessary, after blooming                   
also.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Plant cold frame plants outdoors now.                                         
                                                                                
* April is a good time to clean up plants and flower beds. Pick                 
out dead leaves and twigs and prune dead limbs.                                 
                                                                                
* Grape vines with excessive vegetative growth generally have                   
less high quality fruit. In early spring, prune out the canes                   
with the fewest buds to allow light, moisture and air circulation               
within the plant to improve the quality and quantity of the                     
fruit.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Plant strawberries if you haven't already. Place straw around                 
established plants as a mulch, after weeding and fertilizing the                
bed.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Do not mow the lawn until it has grown at least 2 inches. The                 
roots are being renewed in the spring and grass needs vigorous                  
top growth initially.                                                           
                                                                                
* Label the clumps of daffodils that are too crowded, as over-                  
crowding inhibits blooming. Dig up and separate in July.                        
                                                                                
* The best time to plant shrubs and trees is on a windless,                     
cloudy day.                                                                     
                                                                                
* When pruning forsythia do not cut ends of the twigs. It is best               
to thin out the old branches as close to the ground as possible.                
This should be done immediately after blooming.                                 
                                                                                
* Fill the bare spots in the flower bed with moss roses (Portula-               
ca) and feed regularly to encourage blooms into the summer.                     
                                                                                
* When planning your vegetable garden, consider that vegetables                 
need at least 6 to 10 hours of sunlight in order to develop                     
properly. Most vegetables, such as tomatoes, squash, eggplant,                  
and peppers need full sun.                                                      
                                                                                
* When weather is wet or cold, allow about twice the germination                
time listed on the seed packet. If there is no sign of growth                   
after this time, dig around a little to check for sprouted seeds.               
If you find no signs of life, the seed has probably rotted and                  
you will need to replant.                                                       
                                                                                
* The date of the last killing frost in your area can be used to                
calculate the approximate earliest and latest planting date for                 
spring crops. VCES publication #426-331, Vegetable Planting Guide               
and Recommended Planting Dates can be used to determine planting                
dates and the average length of harvest for each crop. Harvest                  
dates are particularly important if you also plan on having a                   
fall garden.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Have you taken soil tests of your gardens, lawn, orchard and                  
berry patch in the past year?  Don't guess about fertilization.                 
Soil analysis will help you base fertilizer and lime applications               
on the present condition of the soil and the nutrients needed by                
your plants. Contact your local extension agent for instructions                
for sampling soil.                                                              
                                                                                
* Over or under fertilization can weaken or kill plants. Nitrogen               
deficiency is characterized by stunted, yellowing leaves near the               
bottom of the plant and slow, stunted growth. Over application of               
nitrogen may cause leaf tip burn or all vegetative growth (no                   
flowers or fruit).                                                              
                                                                                
* Harden transplants by decreasing water, fertilizer, and growing               
temperatures. Transplant on a shady day, in late afternoon or in                
early evening to reduce transplant shock. Water with a half-stre-               
ngth fertilizer solution. For a few days after transplanting,                   
protect the plants from wind and sun by placing a piece of                      
newspaper or cardboard on their south sides, or by covering with                
jugs, baskets, or flower pots. Water the plants once or twice                   
during the next week.                                                           
                                                                                
* Quality bedding plants are sold already hardened off. Woody and               
yellow plants are overhardened and will be slow to resume growth.               
                                                                                
* Plant Swiss Chard for a constant harvest of greens from spring                
until fall.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Delay mulching to allow soil to warm deeply, but act before                   
weeds become established.                                                       
                                                                                
* If fruit trees are lacking pollinators nearby, cut bouquets of                
blossoms from good pollinators and place them in pails under                    
blossoming trees. Make plans to plant pollinating varieties this                
fall.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Moles are tunnelling insect eaters particularly attracted to                  
grubs. When bulbs are missing, or shrubs have root damage, look                 
for voles or field mice to be the culprits. These rodents often                 
use mole tunnels as their runs.                                                 
                                                                                
* Estimate your grass seed needs at 2-3 lbs of bluegrass seed or                
4-8 lbs. tall fescue per 1000 square feet. Remove debris, level                 
and firm soil before seeding. Cover seed by raking the area                     
lightly.                                                                        
                                                                                
* The last Friday in April is National Arbor Day - plant a tree,                
or support an organization which does.                                          
                                                                                
* Once new growth begins on trees and shrubs, cut back twigs                    
affected by winterkill to green wood.                                           
                                                                                
* For more compact pyracantha bushes without the risk of losing                 
the crop of berries, pinch back new growth now.                                 
                                                                                
* Prune roses to buds which point outward to encourage good air                 
and sunlight penetration. Dark-colored canes indicate dead wood.                
Cut back an inch below these darkened areas. If no live buds are                
left, remove the entire cane or branch.                                         
                                                                                
* Wild greens are often best in early spring when their flavor is               
mild. Common weeds that are edible include: pigweed, mustard,                   
purslane, lambs quarter and dandelion greens. Harvesting these                  
plants from your garden plot will benefit you doubly.                           
                                                                                
* When iris leaves appear thin and limp, check for borers. These                
grub-like insects can ruin an entire planting if not detected and               
eradicated early.                                                               
                                                                                
* When chrysanthemums show signs of life, dig up and divide large               
plants. Discard woody portions and replant divisions 12-15"                     
apart.                                                                          
                                                                                
* To ensure the dahlia tubers you plant have survived storage,                  
sprout them indoors in a warm, lit spot.                                        
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
April 1986 Press Releases                                                       
                                                                                
Spinach                             30 lines                                    
Annual Vines in the Landscape       49 lines                                    
Nasturiums                          42 lines                                    
Trickle Irrigation                  78 lines                                    
Minimum Chemical Gardening          70 lines                                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
SPINACH                                                                         
                                                                                
Spinach is one of our most important crops for use as greens. It                
is an easy and quick vegetable to grow in the home garden during                
cool spring or fall weather.                                                    
                                                                                
Spinach is hardy and will withstand frost as low as 10 or 12                    
degrees below freezing. It may be planted a month or more before                
the average last frost date in your locality. Spinach is best as                
a spring or fall crop as seeds do not germinate well in warm                    
weather and plants bolt in the heat of summer.                                  
                                                                                
Spinach does not grow satisfactorily during continually wet                     
weather. If your soil is somewhat heavy, plant on low ridges to                 
provide extra drainage. Sow seeds 1/2" deep, 2-4" apart in rows                 
12-18" apart. In wide beds plant seed 4" apart in all directions.               
Crowding can stress plants and encourage early development of                   
flower stalks. Thin plants to about four inches apart in the row.               
                                                                                
Be sure to plant spinach on a fertile loam soil to ensure rapid                 
growth. The entire plant is cut when the desired size is reached                
in about 40 to 50 days after planting. Or outside leaves can be                 
harvested from the time the plant has 6-8 leaves until just                     
before the flower stalks develop.                                               
                                                                                
There are two common types of spinach: the savoyed or crumpled                  
leaf varieties used mostly for fresh market, and the smooth leaf                
varieties used commericially for canning. Long standing or slow                 
bolting strains should be planted as these go to seed slower than               
other types providing a longer harvest period.                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
ANNUAL VINES IN THE LANDSCAPE                                                   
                                                                                
Annual flowering vines are useful for many locations around the                 
home. They add new interest to the landscape when grown on a                    
fence, arbor or trellis. They grow rapidly to form an attractive                
mass of foliage and flowers.                                                    
                                                                                
Annual vines climb by twining around a support, or by clinging                  
with tendrils. They may be used to provide shade along a porch,                 
give new charm to a fence or add color and new appeal to the                    
side of the garage. Wooden lattice, woven wire fencing, or                      
string is all that is needed.                                                   
                                                                                
Morning glory is one of the most colorful vines you can plant.                  
Brilliant flowers are available in white and shades of blue                     
and red. The flowers are four to five inches across and are borne               
freely on vines which may grow to a height of 12 to 15 feet tall.               
Morning glories grow best on a well drained soil in a warm sunny                
location. Avoid rich soil and excessive fertilization which                     
produces vigorous vines with few flowers. Start seeds indoors in                
four inch pots, and plant outdoors two or three weeks after the                 
average last frost date in your area. Soaking the seeds in water                
overnight will speed germination. Be careful when choosing a                    
location for morning glory vines. The plants self sow readily and               
you will get volunteers in the following year.                                  
                                                                                
Vine-forming nasturtium cultivars grow four or five feet tall.                  
They bloom profusely, producing fragrant flowers in shades of red               
and yellow. The plants perform best in well drained soil of                     
average or low fertility. In rich soil, they will produce mostly                
leaves and very few flowers. The canary creeper is closely                      
related to the nasturtium. This tender vine grows to a height of                
about eight feet. Yellow flowers have two large fringed petals,                 
three smaller ones, and a green spur.                                           
                                                                                
Scarlet runner bean is an edible ornamental suitable for trellis-               
ing. Rosy scarlet flowers top long twining vines. The purplish                  
pods are ornamental and can be shelled for cooking purposes. A                  
white runner bean, `White Dutch' can be found in some seed                      
catalogs.                                                                       
                                                                                
Gourds have rather inconspicuous flowers, but produce colorful                  
fruit which are ornamental on the vine during late summer. The                  
fruit may be dried for fall and winter arrangements in the home.                
                                                                                
Avoid planting Japanese hops vines. These grow rapidly, reseed                  
prolifically, and may become a weed which is difficult to                       
control. Some people are sensitive to the prickly leaves of this                
plant, which may cause unsightly red welts.                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
NASTURTIUMS                                                                     
                                                                                
Nasturtiums originated in the high Andes mountains of Peru and                  
are therefore, an important native flower of the western hemi-                  
sphere. They need plenty of light to produce good flowers                       
in shades of yellow, orange, red and mahogany. Double flower                    
cultivars are available.                                                        
                                                                                
Nasturtiums grow rapidly and come into bloom in about six or                    
eight weeks from seed, quicker than most other annual flowers.                  
Plant them after the danger of frost is past. Sow nasturtium                    
seeds in soil of below average fertility to encourage slow growth               
and abundant flowering. Rich soils will produce lush green plants               
with few blooms. These excellent plants are almost pest free                    
except for occasion aphid infestation.                                          
                                                                                
A unique feature of nasturtiums is that some parts of this                      
ornamental plant are edible. The young flower buds and unripe                   
seeds have a pleasant pungent flavor. Young leaves have a peppery               
flavor and may be used in sandwiches and salads. The flowers may                
be used as an edible garnish.                                                   
                                                                                
The low bushy type nasturtiums grow to a height of one or two                   
feet. They are fine as edging plants or massed in the flower                    
border. The flowers are produced freely and are useful in small                 
and medium sized arrangements.                                                  
                                                                                
The climbing type nasturtium rapidly grows to a height of six to                
eight feet, and will quickly cover a fence or lattice. This vine                
climbs by twining around its support; therefore, you will need                  
to provide string, wire, or a trellis for climbing nasturtiums.                 
Climbing types may also be used to hang down from a window box                  
or trail along a bank or stone retaining wall. Vining varieties                 
prefer shade from the midday sun.                                               
                                                                                
The canary creeper is closely related to the nasturtium. When                   
planted in a semi-shaded location with a rich moist soil, this                  
vine will grow to a height of six to ten feet. The leaves are                   
somewhat similar to maple but more deeply notched. The pale                     
yellow flowers about one inch across display two large and                      
three small petals, and a green spur. From a distance they look                 
like small canary birds.                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
TRICKLE IRRIGATION                                                              
                                                                                
The greatest interest in trickle irrigation usually occurs about                
July when the novelty of moving sprinklers and hoses about the                  
garden has worn off and the impossiblity of watering and harvest-               
ing in the garden at the same time has made itself clear. But                   
now is the time to plant and install your trickle system while                  
you are planting the garden.                                                    
                                                                                
Trickle irrigation involves frequent, sometimes daily, applica-                 
tions of small amounts of water to replace water in the soil as                 
it is used by plants. This is done by using a system of "remit-                 
ters" or hoses to slowly apply water under low pressure to the                  
plant root zone.                                                                
                                                                                
There are a number of advantages to trickle irrigation over                     
traditional watering systems:                                                   
  considerably less water is required to meet the plant's needs                 
for optimum growth.                                                             
  since the plant is never put under water stress, its production               
is increased, sometimes by as much as 100%.                                     
  since only a fraction of the soil is wetted, only that directly               
around the plant roots, the garden is accessible at all times.                  
  since you are not watering pathways and non-production areas,                 
fewer weeds are encouraged to grow; thus there are less weeds to                
control.                                                                        
  the foliage will not be wetted by a trickle system so disease                 
problems will be reduced.                                                       
  water soluble fertilizer can be applied through the trickle                   
irrigation, making the job easier and reducing the chances of                   
fertilizer burn on foliage and stems from sidedressing.                         
  since water is applied slowly, it puts less of a strain on the                
water system in dry periods particularly if you are on a well or                
spring.                                                                         
  the trickle irrigation system can be automated by the use of a                
simple timer and solenoid valves so you don't have to worry                     
about watering if you're gone for a few days.                                   
                                                                                
There are some problems associated with trickle irrigation that                 
you should be aware of in considering a system:                                 
 clogging. The holes that allow water to seep from the hose to                  
the soil are extremely small. Particles in some water such as                   
fine sand, algae, and mineral salts that build up due to evapora-               
tion can clog these holes. Chemical treatments or filters may be                
required to correct these problems.                                             
 run-off. Fine textured soils such as clays may not absorb water                
fast enough to prevent puddling and run-off. Sandy soils and                    
medium textured soils are usually best for trickle irrigation.                  
 sloped terrain. Steep slopes in the garden may result in 50%                   
more water being applied at the lower end than the upper end of                 
the hose. Terracing or raised beds will help this.                              
                                                                                
There are a number of commercially available emitters with                      
different application rates. Complete kits to set systems for a                 
backyard garden (usually 30x50) can be purchased.                               
                                                                                
A system generally consisits of a main line to carry water from                 
the house to the garden. A 1/2" diameter black polyetheylene                    
pipe will work. At the end of this pipe at the garden site, a                   
flow regulating valve is inserted with plastic adaptors to                      
control the amount of water delivered. A 1gpm (gallon per                       
minute) flow-regulating valve will supply enough water in 1 hour                
for a 1000 sq.ft. garden.                                                       
                                                                                
A 1/2" black plastic pipe is then continued across the garden as                
a header. Commercial emitters are attached to the header with                   
appropriate adaptors to carry water directly to the base of the                 
plant. The emitters or hose is most effectively placed under the                
soil surface or beneath mulch material.                                         
                                                                                
The rate and frequency of application will depend on the type of                
system installed, total application will be approximately 57                    
gallons of water per day (400 gal/wk) for a 1000 sq. ft. garden                 
as compared to the recommended one inch or 625 gallons per weeek                
(89 gal/day) with the traditional watering system.                              
                                                                                
(Agents: For additional information see 442-031 Trickle Irri-                   
gation for Home Gardeners)                                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
MINIMUM CHEMICAL GARDENING                                                      
                                                                                
Public concern over the use and misuse of pesticides has led                    
increasing numbers of home gardeners to seek means of "natural"                 
pest control. Although some people do not have the time or                      
knowledge to practice all the available alternative methods                     
for controlling pests, there are many cultural practices which                  
will help reduce losses.                                                        
                                                                                
Soil conditions affect pest populations. Maintain a slightly acid               
soil (around pH 6.5). Appropriate pH allows vegetable plants to                 
have acess to all the necessary soil nutrients and provides a                   
suitable environments for earthworms and microorganisms.                        
                                                                                
Follow recommended fertilizer practices. Supplement fertilizers                 
with organic material or compost to help assure that all trace                  
elements are available, as well as major nutrients. "Feed" the                  
soil, not just the plants; providing and appropriate environment                
for all soil life will result in healthier plants which are more                
resistant to pests and diseases.                                                
                                                                                
Rotate your garden plot, if you can. Use related crops in one                   
site only once every three or four years.                                       
                                                                                
Use interplantings as opposed to solid plantings of a crop. This                
can slow the spread of diseases and pests, giving you more time                 
to deal with them.                                                              
                                                                                
Thin young plants to a proper standard. Overcrowding causes weak                
growth and subsequent insect and disease problems.                              
                                                                                
Keep down weeds and grass. They often harbor pests and compete                  
for nutrients and water.                                                        
                                                                                
Use a mulch to reduce soil splash, which brings soil borne                      
diseases into contact with lower leaves.                                        
                                                                                
Water in the morning so that plants have time to dry before the                 
cool evening. Drip irrigation prevents foliage from getting wet                 
at all when watering. For  plants susceptible to fungus infec-                  
tions leave extra space between them to allow for good air flow;                
orient rows so that prevailing winds will help foliage dry                      
quickly after a rain or watering.                                               
                                                                                
Select disease-resistant varieties and plant crops that are                     
suited to the soil and climate. If you do plant vegetables or                   
fruits that are not normally grown in your area, do your best to                
provide necessary conditions. Use certified seed and plants                     
if available.                                                                   
                                                                                
Remove infected leaves from diseased plants as soon as you                      
observe them. Dispose of severely diseased plants before they                   
contaminate others. Clean up crop refuse as soon as you are                     
finished harvesting.                                                            
                                                                                
Time plantings in such a way that the majority of your crop will                
avoid the peak of insect infestations. Keep a record of the                     
dates and conditions under which disease and insect problems                    
occur.                                                                          
                                                                                
Take advantage of the biological control already taking place in                
your garden by encouraging natural predators. Learn to recognize                
the eggs and larvae of the beneficial insects and avoid harming                 
them.                                                                           
                                                                                
The most effective and most important of all practices is to                    
observe what is going on in the garden. Many serious disease or                 
insect problems can be halted or slowed down early by the                       
gardener who knows what to look for and regularly visits the                    
garden for the purpose of trouble-shooting.                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
April 1986 Question Box                                                         
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan and Debbie Blosser,               
Horticulture Extension Technicians, working with Diane Relf,                    
Extension Specialist, Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener                  
Question Box has been developed for agent use in preparing radio                
and newspaper features.                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
Mulching Vegetable Gardens                         55 lines                     
Foundation Plantings                               25 lines                     
Lithops ('Living Rocks')                           54 lines                     
Papaya Culture                                     15 lines                     
Windowbox Construction                             28 lines                     
Narcissus? Jonquil? Daffodil?                      12 lines                     
Aluminum Foil as Mulch                             18 lines                     
Bergenia                                           50 lines                     
Azalea Culture                                     26 lines                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
I plan to lay down my hoe and turn to mulches for most of my weed               
control this year. Would you recommend that I use black plastic                 
or some organic material such as leaves?                                        
                                                                                
Both organic and inorganic mulches reduce weed growth by making                 
conditions unfavorable for germination of weed seeds and by                     
providing a physical barrier for emerging weeds. A good mulch                   
layer can save many hours of laborious weeding. A thick layer of                
organic mulch material is especially effective at reducing the                  
number of annual weeds in the garden since weed seedlings have                  
difficulty penetrating such a layer. Some perennial weeds may                   
also be suppressed in this way if they are small, but often                     
dandelions or other taprooted weeds will eventually find their                  
way through the mulch. These are easy to spot, and since the soil               
stays moist beneath the mulch, they are easy to pull. Rhizoma-                  
tous grasses will often make their way through organic mulches as               
well, but often the rhizomes will be on or near the soil surface                
and will be easy to lift out. Black plastic and thick layers of                 
newspaper are often better mulches for controlling perennial                    
weeds.                                                                          
                                                                                
Mulches are also very useful for maintaining uniform moisture                   
conditions in the garden. Water losses through evaporation are                  
decreased and soil erosion is reduced as the impact of heavy                    
rainfall is lessened by the layer of mulch. Slow, steady water                  
infiltration occurs rather than puddling and subsequent soil                    
crusting. Mulch also reduces splashing of soil onto the fruit,                  
leaving fruits cleaner and helping to prevent the spread of                     
disease.                                                                        
                                                                                
Soil temperatures are modified by mulches to various degrees                    
depending on the material used. Plastic will warm the soil more                 
quickly in the spring, increasing early plant development.                      
Organic mulches applied later in the season, act as insulation,                 
help keep soil temperatures cooler, and reduce evaporative                      
losses.                                                                         
                                                                                
Organic mulches add nutrients and humus to the soil improving its               
tilth and moisture-holding capacity. Most orgainic mulches should               
be applied after plants are well established (4-6" tall).                       
Cultivate out all weeds before spreading mulch evenly over bare                 
soil between plants. Apply organic mulches when there is reason-                
able good soil moisture and before the weather turns hot.                       
Infiltration of rain water will be slowed somewhat by a mulch, so               
it is best not to place the mulch over soil that is dry. Water                  
thoroughly, or wait for a good soaking rainfall, before applying                
any mulch.                                                                      
                                                                                
Inorganic mulches such as plastic films and paper are applied                   
prior to planting. Black plastic and similar materials should be                
spread on land that has been completely prepared for planting and               
has a high moisture level. Place the mulch over the row to be                   
planted, then bury the edges to prevent it from blowing away. Cut               
slits for seeding or setting transplants. A few additional slits                
can be made to allow water to infiltrate.                                       
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
I am looking at the front yards of many homes to get ideas for                  
landscaping my new home. Is it necessary to plant shrubs right                  
next to the house? I would prefer a flower bed.                                 
                                                                                
Just drive down the steet of any town and you can see an overuse                
of foundation plantings in front of houses. Old-style foundation                
plantings are still used in many home landscapes, although they                 
are rarely necessary. This style of landscaping can be attrac-                  
tive, but the need for foundation plantings has been nearly                     
eliminated by modern construction techniques. With no ugly                      
foundation to hide on today's houses, in most cases this type of                
planting simply hides the beauty and architecture of the house                  
itself.                                                                         
                                                                                
Climate control, windbreaks, privacy, and cutting glare from                    
street lights are legitimate reasons for placing plants in                      
particular places. Aesthetics, although just as important, should               
be considered after some of these landscape problems have been                  
dealt with first.                                                               
                                                                                
Landscape design should be thought out in a problem-solving                     
approach. Just as rooms are carefully planned before construction               
of a house, use of space outside the house should be planned                    
equally well. Plants, pavement and structures should be placed                  
with the overall property in mind, not just the front door of the               
house.                                                                          
                                                                                
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A friend of mine recently showed me a plant he called "living                   
rock." What can you tell me about these plants? Can I grow them                 
from seed?                                                                      
                                                                                
Living rock or lithops (meaning "like stones") is a handsomely                  
apt name for your friend's plant. The plants consist of two small               
very fleshy leaves facing each other, but joined to make one body               
usually with a shallow cleft between the leaves at the top. In                  
nature, the main body of the plant is buried in the ground with                 
only the ornamental top surface showing. Protection from the sun                
is afforded by an epidermal layer that is thick, tough and waxy.                
A few species have transparent tops for the sunlight to pass                    
through, but typically the tops are patterned into intricate                    
complexes affording large and small areas for the entry of                      
sunlight.                                                                       
                                                                                
Growing lithops from seed is not difficult. Seeds can be obtained               
from a mail order nursery which specializes in unusual plants, or               
you may be able to get seeds from your friend's plant. Seedlings                
flower in three or four years. To induce seed production, stop                  
watering three year old plants from December 1st to April 1st.                  
Then start watering every two weeks from the beginning of April;                
gradually increase water applications to once a week from the                   
middle of May through September. After September, taper off                     
watering to every two weeks.                                                    
                                                                                
Plants thus treated will fatten, push up out of the soil and                    
develop flowers which resemble tiny daisies of about 1 inch in                  
diameter. The flowers, which open up in the afternoon, are                      
generally white or yellow, but sometimes orange. In proportion,                 
flowers are very large and may cover the single plant from which                
they arise.                                                                     
                                                                                
One part each of good garden soil and clean builders' sand is                   
good propagation media. Pots 2 inches or larger can be used.                    
First, fill the pot 3/4 full with course drainage material such                 
as sand. Over this put fine organic media such as peat moss.                    
Seeds are very fine, so they should rest practically on the                     
surface. For the next year, seedlings must never become dry. A                  
dried-out lithops seedling cannot be revived. Pots may be placed                
in pans of water to eliminate possible disturbance to germinating               
seedlings if watered from overhead. Warmth and sunlight must be                 
provided to get the plants established.                                         
                                                                                
After about a year, lithop seedlings can be transplanted into a                 
loose media containing 3 parts topsoil, 2 parts builders' sand, 1               
part pea-sized perlite or builders' 3/8 inch gravel, and a bit of               
leafmold or peat moss. Bird gravel or pea-sized aquarium gravel                 
can be used in place of builders' gravel.                                       
                                                                                
In the cultivation of mature lithops, ventilation is very                       
important. In the summertime, in periods of muggy weather, hold                 
back on the water. A fan is valuable to modify the adverse                      
effects of high humidity. Dehumidifiers and air-conditioners                    
provide ideal air quality.                                                      
                                                                                
 -------------                                                                  
                                                                                
While vacationing in Florida, I sampled a papaya. I was so taken                
by the fruit, I wondered if I could grow a papaya tree in my                    
hobby greenhouse?                                                               
                                                                                
The Dwarf Philippino papaya can be planted in a large pot or                    
barrel-half and grown in a greenhouse. The plant's average height               
is 6 to 8 feet tall with fruit forming about 18 inches from the                 
ground. Because the fruit grows close and thick on the entire                   
trunk of the tree, it is easy to reach and to pick. Papaya fruits               
maybe as large, or larger, than footballs and the flavor is                     
delicious, sweet, and juicy.                                                    
                                                                                
Ten to twelve-inch papaya seedlings planted in late February will               
bear delicious fruit about eight months later. Every 10 days to                 
two weeks, spraying with a liquid seaweed compound benefits the                 
plant by supplying trace elements.                                              
                                                                                
 --------------                                                                 
                                                                                
What are your recommendations on wood and paint or stain for                    
window boxes? Will salt-treated wood be okay to use?                            
                                                                                
Salt-treated wood is recommended for use in window boxes.                       
Salt-treated wood protects wood from rotting in moist conditions                
such as a window box. Do not use wood treated with creosote or                  
pentachlorophenol ("Penta") on any part of window boxes as these                
two compounds are toxic to plants. Wash salt-treated wood before                
using it in plant box construction to remove any residual salt                  
deposits. Allow the wood to dry completely before applying paint                
or stain.                                                                       
                                                                                
Paint is the hardest coating to maintain on window boxes but                    
because it is readily available and has a decorative function, it               
is used extensively by homeowners. Paint does not protect the                   
wood from the constantly moist conditions found in window boxes.                
Moisture will cause the paint to blister in a few years. Exterior               
stain is preferred over paint as it makes the planting boxes                    
easier to maintain.                                                             
                                                                                
Another solution to the problem is to use a soldered sheet metal                
liner that has drainage holes. Metal liners can be purchased at                 
garden supply stores. An attractive outer box may be constructed                
to house the metal liner. The outer box should be made of                       
salt-treated wood and covered with exterior paint or stain.                     
Place the box liner on wooden blocks so that it drains well.                    
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
Are jonquil and daffodil two names for the same plant?                          
                                                                                
Daffodil is a colloquial term that has come to stand for all                    
narcissus and jonquils. Botanically speaking, all belong to the                 
genus Narcissus. However, there has been so much hybridization,                 
that it is very difficult to tell many of the narcissus species                 
apart. Some general guidelines are that jonquils have one                       
to many flowers per stalk; flowers tend to be a bit smaller with                
a wavy corona. Narcissus have predominately solitary flowers                    
which are a bit larger than jonquils, and their cups also tend to               
be shorter and frilled. Bear in mind that these are just general                
guidelines--if you were faced with a mixed field of narcissus and               
jonquils, it would be very difficult to tell them apart.                        
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
I noticed my neighbor using aluminum foil in her vegetable                      
garden. When asked, she said she heard it helps keep the bugs                   
from eating the plants. Is this true?                                           
                                                                                
The purpose of an aluminum foil mulch is to keep insects from                   
spreading an existing disease problem. Aphids and possibly leaf                 
hoppers are the main target. The light reflected from the foil                  
confuses the insects so that they aren't sure where the sun                     
is--and they don't land on your plants. However, soap is a much                 
cheaper and more effective means of aphid control. Be sure to use               
soap not detergent; detergents will damage some plants. Agricult-               
ural soaps are on the market for insect control.                                
                                                                                
In addition to insect control, aluminum foil is good for weed                   
control. Decomposition is very slow and soil temperatures are                   
decreased by up to 10 F. They provide additional reflection of                  
light to help speed up fruiting of such vegetables as peppers and               
eggplant in not-so-sunny gardens. However, aluminum foil is                     
expensive when compared to other weed control methods.                          
                                                                                
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While my wife and I were out driving one Sunday, we stopped at                  
one house to ask about the distinctive, large-leaf plants at the                
corner of the property. The owners told us they are bergenia. Can               
you tell us more about them?                                                    
                                                                                
Bergenia is a member of the Saxifragaceae family, for which no                  
common name is accepted. Most genera are perennial, evergreen                   
herbs with thick rootstocks which spread and develop into low                   
clumps. One genus, B. ciliata, looses its leaves during winter,                 
but the roots give rise to new plants in spring. Bergenia                       
have big, leathery, glossy round or oblong leaves on thick stems.               
Hardy species are pretty all year. Leaves are a deep green all                  
summer into early fall. As the days get shorter and colder, they                
begin to take on deep red and plum shades and remain colorful all               
winter. With warm spring days, the leaves turn green again                      
and remain so throughout summer.                                                
                                                                                
Although primarily grown for their foliage, bergenia do have                    
strong-stemmed inflorescences of pure rose, light or deep pink,                 
purple and white flowers. These appear in early spring, March to                
May depending on the location. Bergenia do best in a loamy soil                 
in a hot, dry location. They will grow in poor soils but they                   
are apt not to flower as well as when.                                          
                                                                                
There are only about eight species of Bergenia. B. cordifolia and               
B. crassifolia are hardy in Zone 2. B.cordifolia has rounded,                   
heart-shaped leaves with wavy-toothed margins and a broader base                
than does B. crassifolia. The flowers are produced on stems                     
twelve to fifteen inches high and are clear rose color in                       
nodding cymes. There is a cultivar `Purpurea' with deep reddish-                
purple flowers on taller stalks, and also cultivars `Alba' and                  
`Rosea.'                                                                        
                                                                                
Bergenia crassifolia has smooth, shiny leaves, obovate and                      
slightly toothed or entire. Rose, lilac or purple colored flowers               
stand well above the leaves. There is a cultivar `Orbicularis'                  
which has a branching habit and an abundance of light rose                      
flowers.                                                                        
                                                                                
Bergenia are suitable for border plantings or large rock gardens                
and also look good in open places in a wild garden. They are                    
attractive at the edge of a woods or as distinctive container                   
plants for sunny terraces. Bergenia are good plants for the                     
corners of flower beds because of their all year interest. They                 
require the minimum of maintenance and have few pests. Ornamental               
foliage serves as a setting or foil for plants that need a                      
background or contrast such as annuals, or Phlox divaricata,                    
Ajuga, Stachys lanata, Veronica incana, and others. They give a                 
finishing touch to the garden much like what a frame does                       
for a picture, or lawn and shrubs do for a house.                               
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
I would like to plant some azaleas in my yard, but I'm not sure                 
when I should buy the plants.                                                   
                                                                                
Azaleas burst into the landscape this month. With so many types,                
it's a problem to decide where to plant them and which colors to                
choose. Azaleas are showy plants, and unless you're already                     
familiar with the types and their colors, you could end up with a               
combination that's awkward in your lanscape. When you see                       
azaleas in your neighborhood coming into bloom, it's a signal                   
that the same selections sold at local nurseries are also in                    
bloom. That's the time to buy.                                                  
                                                                                
Inspect all plants before you buy checking for signs of insects                 
or diseases. Leaf spot and petal blight are difficult to control                
once established. Pests to look for include scale, mites, and                   
mealybugs.                                                                      
                                                                                
Azaleas are available in white, as well as various shades of red,               
pink, lavender, and orange. Choose colors compatible with the                   
color of your home. Red, pink, or orange clash with most shades                 
of red brick.                                                                   
                                                                                
Azaleas look best when several of the same color are grouped                    
together. Pick at least three or four of the same color, rather                 
than an assortment of colors. You can position color groups so                  
that one provides a background for another. You can also use                    
white to separate opposing colors such as red and pink.                         
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Herbaceous Plants                                                               
                                                                                
* In a sunny location with poor soil, plant nasturtiums for a                   
colorful show. They require warm soil to sprout and start                       
blooming in about 50 days. Too much water and fertilizer produces               
excess leaves and few flowers.                                                  
                                                                                
* Label the clumps of daffodils that are too crowded, as overcro-               
wding inhibits blooming. Dig up and separate in July.                           
                                                                                
* To extend the blooming period of gladiolus, plant early, middle               
and late-season selections each week until the middle of June.                  
Choose a sunny location and plant the corms 4-6 inches deep and                 
6-8 inches apart.                                                               
                                                                                
* When chrysanthemums show signs of life, dig up and divide large               
plants. Discard woody portions and replant divisions 12-15 inches               
apart.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Aster contraster, a new flower introduction from 1986, is the                 
world's first aster with stripes. The fully double, incurving                   
three inch blooms come in a wide range of color. Pinks, carmines,               
blues, lilacs, rose, and mauve are contrasted with a white                      
stripe. The plant is dwarf, reaching only 9 to 12 inches, with a                
round compact habit. A. contraster looks equally well in a tub on               
the patio or planted as a group in the garden.                                  
                                                                                
* Scatter annual poppy seeds in flower borders. The fine seeds                  
need no covering. The plants grow rapidly and provide colorful                  
flowers in early summer.                                                        
                                                                                
* The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station reports that                  
larger plants with more flowers can be grown in a soil mix                      
consisting of 1 part sphagnum moss, 1 part peat moss, 2 parts                   
perlite, and 2 parts compost than with 4 other commonly used                    
mixes. Sphagnum moss is reported to increase aeration and                       
water-holding capacity and to suppress soil-borne diseases.                     
                                                                                
* Planted now, Sedum spectabile and Hosta tardifolia or H.                      
plantaginea will brighten your flowerbed in the fall with                       
flowers.  Hardy periennial asters which come in shades of blue,                 
red, white, purple and rose are also late-blooming.                             
                                                                                
* Many popular perennials can be divided now including: phlox,                  
fall asters, shasta daisies, baby's breath and liriope. Set up a                
plant exchange with friends and neighbors to share the excess.                  
                                                                                
* Consider planting flowers which may be dried for winter                       
arrangements. Some of the best are strawflower, statice, Chinese                
lantern, celosia, and globe amaranth.                                           
                                                                                
* Cut flower stalks back to the ground on daffodils, hyacinths,                 
and other spring flowering bulbs as the flowers fade. DO NOT cut                
the foliage until it dies naturally. The leaves are necessary to                
produce strong bulbs capable of reflowering.                                    
                                                                                
* Make a plot layout of your flower borders. This is a very                     
essential but easily neglected chore. With an accurate plot plan,               
you will know where to locate the spring flowering bulbs you                    
plant next fall. Also, it will make your spring and summer                      
gardening easier. You will be able to correctly identify the                    
plants in your border and plan for continuous blooming by setting               
young annuals between bulbs and early flowering perennials after                
their blooms have faded.                                                        
                                                                                
* When iris leaves appear thin and limp, check for borers. These                
grub-like insects can ruin an entire planting if not detected and               
eradicated early.                                                               
                                                                                
* Fill the bare spots in the sunny flower bed with moss roses                   
(Portulaca) and fertilize regularly to encourage blooms into the                
summer.                                                                         
                                                                                
 * To ensure the dahlia tubers you plant have survived storage,                 
sprout them indoors in a warm, well lighted spot. Plant dahlia                  
tubers as soon as danger of frost is passed. Stake at the time of               
planting to avoid injury to tubers.                                             
                                                                                
                                                                                
* While commonly grown as a houseplant, strawberry begonia                      
(Saxifraga stolonifera) can also be grown as a groundcover in                   
light shade. It is cold hardy to -10 degrees F.                                 
                                                                                
* Plant clematis in locations which receive at least 6 hours of                 
sunshine a day. Use organic mulch or ground cover to shade roots                
and keep them cool. Plant in rich, well-drained loam.                           
                                                                                
* Blue amaryllis (Hippeastrum procerum) and green amaryllis                     
(H. calyptrata) present a rewarding challenge to patient gar-                   
deners. Seeds are available from selected mail order seed                       
companies and bloom in about 5 years.                                           
                                                                                
* For hot weather color, select one of the following: gloriosa                  
daisy, madagascar periwinkle, ornamental peppers, Mexican zinnia,               
amaranthus `Joseph's Coat'. Plant after all danger of frost is                  
past and plan for color until winter arrives.                                   
                                                                                
* Many herbs are excellent for natural appearing rock gardens or                
formal plantings with brick pathways. Those herbs that do well in               
sandy soil and are partial to full sun locations include creeping               
thyme, sage, santolina and garlic.                                              
                                                                                
* For a handsome addition to your herb collection, try lovage                   
(Levisticum officinale) a hardy perennial with a sharp but sweet                
celery flavor. Leaves can be used sparingly in soups and salads;                
stems can be blanched or eaten raw; and seeds can be added to                   
candies, bread, and cakes.                                                      
                                                                                
* Start herb seeds indoors in moist medium. Place in bright,                    
indirect light and move to a sunny window when germination                      
begins. When the seedlings are 2-3" tall, transplant into peat                  
pots for the garden or into clay pots for use on your terrace or                
balcony. Some herbs easily grown from seed include chives, sage,                
sweet marjoram, basil, summery savory, dill and parsley.                        
                                                                                
Woody Ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* For more compact pyracantha bushes pinch back new growth now to               
avoid the risk of losing the crop of berries by pruning after                   
flowering.                                                                      
                                                                                
* The last Friday in April is National Arbor Day - plant a tree,                
or support an organization which does.                                          
                                                                                
* Some shrubs grow best on acid soils with a pH of about 5.0.                   
These include andromeda, azalea, blueberry, camellia, mountain                  
laurel, and rhododendron. At a higher pH value these shrubs may                 
become yellow and make very poor growth.                                        
                                                                                
* Prune roses to buds which point outward to encourage open                     
growth with good air circulation and sunlight penetration.                      
Dark-colored canes indicate dead wood. Cut back an inch below                   
these darkened areas. If no live buds are left, remove the entire               
cane or branch.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Tree seedlings can have a strong start in quart or half-gallon                
milk cartons. Remove top and bottom and stand on a frame covered                
with 1/4" mesh hardware. Fill with a mixture of peat moss,                      
perlite and vermiculite. As the tap root grows through the bottom               
of the milk carton tube and mesh, it is "air pruned" forcing the                
development of fibrous side roots.                                              
                                                                                
* Prune spring blooming shrubs such as forsythia, weigelia and                  
early spirea after they have completed flowering.                               
                                                                                
* Aphids on your roses will cause deformed, inferior flowers.                   
Insecticidal soaps are effective as a control. Apply them                       
according to package recommendations.                                           
                                                                                
* When pruning forsythia do not shear as you would a hedge. It is               
best to thin out the old branches as close to the ground as                     
possible. This should be done immediately after blooming.                       
                                                                                
* The best time to plant shrubs and trees is on a windless,                     
cloudy day.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Do not fertilize azaleas and camellias until they have finished               
blooming. They should be pruned, if necessary, after blooming                   
also.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Once new growth begins on trees and shrubs, cut back twigs                    
affected by winterkill to green wood.                                           
* Before planting bare-root shrubs and trees, soak the roots in                 
water overnight.                                                                
                                                                                
* If wisteria does not bloom, proper pruning should correct the                 
problem. Prune long, straggling canes and all dead wood. Root                   
pruning sometimes helps, too.                                                   
                                                                                
Landscaping                                                                     
                                                                                
* A tall evergreen hedge north of your home can cut heating bills               
by 34% in windswept regions or by 10% in sheltered areas. If your               
house is exposed to winter winds, consider establishing an                      
evergreen planting for a windbreak this spring.                                 
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
* Estimate your grass seed needs at 2-3 lbs of bluegrass seed or                
4-8 lbs. tall fescue per 1000 square feet. Remove debris, level                 
and firm soil before seeding. Cover seed by raking the area                     
lightly.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Remove sticks, rocks and other debris from your lawn to prevent               
damaging your lawnmower or injuring yourself when mowing. Check                 
your lawnmower and other lawn-care equipment in preparation for                 
the coming season.                                                              
                                                                                
* Do not mow the lawn until it has grown at least 2 inches. The                 
roots are being renewed in the spring and grass needs vigorous                  
top growth initially.                                                           
                                                                                
* Lawn grasses do best if mowed at the correct height:                          
   Kentucky Bluegrass     1 1/2 to 2 1/2"                                       
   Tall Fescue            1 1/2 to 3"                                           
   Creeping Red Fescue        2 to 3"                                           
   Perennial Ryegrass     1 1/2 to 2 1/2"                                       
   Bermudagrass             1/2 to 1"                                           
   Zoysia Grass             3/4 to 1"                                           
                                                                                
* Once the snow melts and the surface is dry, established but                   
uneven lawns will benefit from being rolled. Depressed areas may                
be filled with sifted topsoil. Fill in the sparser areas by                     
sowing new seed.                                                                
                                                                                
* The lawn mower blade should always be sharp so as not to tear                 
the grass. If you sharpen the blade at home, be sure to balance                 
it too. Place the center hole of the blade on a screwdriver                     
handle held upright in the vise. Check to see if it balances. If                
not, sharpen the heavier side some more until the blade balances                
on the handle.                                                                  
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* Wild greens are often best in early spring when their flavor is               
mild. Common weeds that are edible include: pigweed, mustard,                   
purslane, lambs quarter and dandelion greens. Harvesting these                  
plants from your garden plot will benefit you doubly.                           
                                                                                
* The date of the last killing frost in your area can be used to                
calculate the approximate earliest and latest planting date for                 
spring crops. VCES publication #426-331, Vegetable Planting Guide               
and Recommended Planting Dates can be used to determine planting                
dates and the average length of harvest for each crop. Harvest                  
dates are particularly important if you also plan on having a                   
fall garden.                                                                    
                                                                                
* In the Piedmont and Mountain regions, this is the time to set                 
out cool-weather vegetables such as broccoli, brussel sprouts,                  
cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, and onions. When the danger of                   
frost has passed, transplant tomatoes, peppers and eggplant.                    
                                                                                
* When weather is wet or cold, allow about twice the germination                
time listed on the seed packet. If there is no sign of growth                   
after this time, dig around a little to check for sprouted seeds.               
If you find no signs of life, the seed has probably rotted and                  
you will need to replant.                                                       
                                                                                
* When planning your vegetable garden, consider that leafy                      
vegetables need at least 6 hours of sunlight in order to develop                
properly. Vegetables such as tomatoes, squash, eggplant, and                    
peppers need 10 hours of full sun.                                              
                                                                                
* For easier watering of tomatoes and other large vegetables,                   
plant a gallon can with holes punched in the bottom nearby. Wate-               
ring through the can keeps water off the top of the ground and                  
puts it near the roots where it's needed.                                       
                                                                                
* Home-made trellises can save space for vining vegetables. An                  
A-frame cucumber trellis consists of two matched ladder-like                    
structures hinged together at the top; the two sections are                     
staggered to allow nesting when stored.                                         
                                                                                
* For faster growth of vegetables in containers, use black                      
plastic pots to warm the soil to 81 degrees on sunny days                       
compared to 72 degrees for the same mixes in clay or white                      
plastic pots.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Plant a bush type winter squash like Table Ace or Gold Nugget,                
if your garden is small and you do not have adequate space for                  
the long vine varieties.                                                        
                                                                                
* Asparagus grows best in sandy loam soil. Set plants 18 inches                 
apart in rows four to five feet apart (or in wide beds of three                 
rows with plants 18 inches apart in all directions). Plants do                  
well if set in a 6-8 inch deep trench. The crowns are then                      
covered with two to three inches of soil. Firm well. As the                     
plants grow, continue to pull soil over the crown (about two                    
inches every two weeks) until the trench is filled.                             
                                                                                
* Plant Swiss Chard for a constant harvest of greens from spring                
until fall. Swiss chard is a soft-textured, mild-flavored green.                
It will give repeated harvests all summer because it does not                   
bolt and go to seed in hot weather like spinach. Swiss chard,                   
especially the red cultivars, look beautiful and hold up well in                
flower arrangements.                                                            
                                                                                
Fruits and Nuts                                                                 
                                                                                
* If fruit trees are lacking pollinators nearby, cut bouquets of                
blossoms from good pollinators and place them in pails under                    
blossoming trees. Make plans to plant pollinating varieties this                
fall.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Thin young fruits of apples, pears, and peaches to insure                     
larger, healthier fruit. Thin within 25 days of the peak bloom,                 
leaving 4 to 6 inches between fruit.                                            
                                                                                
* Plant strawberries if you haven't already. Place straw around                 
established plants as a mulch, after weeding and fertilizing the                
bed.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Improve the fruiting of your blueberries by removing unproduc-                
tive wood that is diseased or dead and broken. Also remove old                  
canes (5 to 6 years old) that have begun to lose their vigor.                   
Select 6 to 8 of the most vigorous, upright-growing canes for                   
fruiting wood and remove all others.                                            
                                                                                
* Raspberry canes can be pruned and thinned now. Removal of                     
excessive canes at ground level will improve air circulation and                
light penetration for heavier fruiting. All dead tips of the                    
canes should be cut off.                                                        
                                                                                
* Interior latex type paint may be used on the trunks of newly                  
planted trees to prevent sunburn. This material is easy to apply                
and will gradually weather away and allow the bark to become                    
resistant to exposure to the sun.                                               
                                                                                
Indoor Plants                                                                   
                                                                                
* Don't overpot African violets. They bloom better in small pots.               
                                                                                
* A popular gift plant at Easter, the Easter lily needs bright,                 
indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist. It                  
can be planted in a sunny spot in the garden after danger of                    
frost is over, where it will bloom next year.                                   
                                                                                
* Don't be too anxious to move your houseplants outdoors. Even a                
good chill can knock the leaves off of tender plants.                           
                                                                                
Tools and Equipment                                                             
                                                                                
* Measure the rainfall with a rain gauge posted near the garden                 
so you can tell when to water. You can buy one or make one by                   
sinking a can partway into the ground and marking off its                       
interior in inches. The garden needs about one inch of rain per                 
week from April to September.                                                   
                                                                                
* Ice cream scoops are great to dig holes of uniform size when                  
setting out transplants, and the dirt slides right off when you                 
release the squeeze-handle.                                                     
                                                                                
Misc.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Moles are tunnelling insect eaters particularly attracted to                  
grubs. When bulbs are missing, or shrubs have root damage, look                 
for voles or field mice to be the culprits. These rodents often                 
use mole tunnels as their runs.                                                 
                                                                                
* Delay organic mulching to allow soil to warm deeply, but act                  
before weeds become established.                                                
                                                                                
* Quality bedding plants are sold already hardened off. Woody and               
yellow plants are overhardened and will be slow to resume growth.               
                                                                                
* Over or under fertilization can weaken or kill plants. Nitrogen               
deficiency is characterized by stunted, yellowing leaves near the               
bottom of the plant and slow, stunted growth. Over application of               
nitrogen may cause leaf tip burn or all vegetative growth (no                   
flowers or fruit).                                                              
                                                                                
* Don't guess about fertilization. Soil analysis will help you                  
base fertilizer and lime applications on the present condition of               
the soil and the nutrients needed by your plants. Contact your                  
local extension agent for instructions for sampling soil.                       
                                                                                
* Some people report luck with beer as a pesticide for slugs.                   
Place it in small aluminum pot-pie pans sunk in the ground so                   
that the soil is even with the rim.                                             
                                                                                
* When transplanting seedlings in peat pots to your garden, be                  
careful not to allow the rim of the peat pot to protrude above                  
the soil level. If the rim is above the soil level, it will act                 
as a wick and draw moisture away from the transplant. To prevent                
this from happening, break away the uppermost rim of the pot                    
before planting and make sure the pot is completely covered with                
soil.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Control insect pests before they become unmanageable. Spray or                
dust tent caterpillars while they are still small.                              
                                                                                
* Put a birdhouse in the garden to attract insect-eating friends.               
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
PRESS RELEASES FOR APRIL 1987                                                   
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Extension                   
Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Home Horticulturist working               
with Jim Roberts, Extension Entomologist and Eric Day, Manager of               
the Insect ID Lab. The Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been               
developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper features               
and other educational programs.                                                 
                                                                                
Garden Practices to Minimize Pests              70 lines                        
Insect Damage to Plants                         84 lines                        
Vines in the Landscape                          54 lines                        
Gardens for Celebrating                         70 lines                        
Lilacs                                          52 lines                        
Pine Bark Aphid                                 47 lines                        
                                                                                
Garden Practices to Minimize Pests                                             
                                                                                
The most effective and most important of all practices to                       
minimize garden pests is to observe what is going on in the                     
garden. Many serious disease or insect problems can be halted or                
slowed down early by the gardener who knows what to look for and                
regularly visits the garden for the purpose of trouble shooting.                
                                                                                
Start by selecting varieties that are insect and disease resis-                 
tant and adapted to growing in Virginia.                                        
                                                                                
Time garden plantings in such a way that the majority of the crop               
will avoid the peak of insect infestations. For example, plant                  
squash as early as possible to avoid borers, which lay eggs in                  
July. Keep a record of the dates insect problems occur. Plant                   
warm weather crops after the soil has warmed to avoid problems                  
with seed and root rots. Growth will be more vigorous, as well.                 
                                                                                
Thin young plants to proper spacing. Overcrowding causes weak                   
growth and subsequent insect and disease problems.                              
                                                                                
Avoid planting the same kind of crop in the same place each year.               
Use related crops in one site only once every three or four                     
years. Some related crops are grouped as follows: (a) chives,                   
garlic, leeks, onions, shallots; (b) beets, Swiss chard, spinach;               
(c) cabbage, cauliflower, kale, collards, Brussels sprouts,                     
broccoli, kohlrabi, turnips, rutabagas, Chinese cabbage, mustard;               
(d) peas, broad beans, snap beans, lima beans; (e) carrots,                     
parsley, celery, celeriac, parsnips; (f) potatoes, eggplant,                    
tomatoes, peppers; (g) pumpkins, squash, watermelons, cucumbers,                
muskmelons; and (h) endive, salsify, lettuce.                                   
                                                                                
Staking plants or planting them in wire cages prevents the fruit                
from touching the soil and helps prevent fruit rots. Caging helps               
reduce sun scald often seen in staked tomatoes, since caged                     
plants do not require as much pruning, a heavier foliage cover                  
can act as a sunscreen. Boards or a light, open mulch such as                   
straw placed beneath melons will prevent rotting. Use a mulch to                
reduce soil splash, which brings soil borne diseases into contact               
with lower leaves.                                                              
                                                                                
Water in the morning so that plants have time to dry before the                 
cool evening. Drip irrigation prevents the foliage from getting                 
wet. For plants susceptible to fungus infections, leave extra                   
space between plants to allow good air flow; orient rows so that                
prevailing winds will help foliage dry quickly after a rain or                  
watering. To prevent spreading diseases, stay out of the garden                 
when the plants are wet with rain or dew.                                       
                                                                                
Keep down weeds and grass. They often harbor pests and compete                  
for nutrients and water. They provide an alternate source of food               
and can be responsible for pest build up.                                       
                                                                                
Do not use tobacco products such as cigarettes or cigars when                   
working in the garden. Tomato, pepper, and eggplant are                         
susceptible to a mosaic virus disease common in tobacco and may                 
be spread by your hands.                                                        
                                                                                
Remove infected leaves from diseased plants as soon as you                      
observe them. Dispose of severely diseased plants before they                   
contaminate others. Clean up crop refuse as soon as harvesting is               
finished if possible. Old sacks, baskets, decaying vegetables,                  
and other debris which may harbor insects and diseases should be                
kept out of the garden.                                                         
                                                                                
Avoid injury to plants. Cuts, bruises, cracks, and insect damage                
are often the site for infection by disease causing organisms. In               
cases where fruits are difficult to remove (such as cucumbers and               
watermelons) cut them off instead of pulling them off the plant.                
If you cultivate your garden, avoid cutting into the plant roots.               
Insect Damage to Plants                                                        
                                                                                
Insects damage plants in a variety of ways. Understanding the                   
damage can be useful in identifying and controlling the insects.                
                                                                                
Insects take their food in a variety of ways. One method is by                  
chewing off the external parts of a plant. Perhaps the best way                 
to gain an idea of the prevalence of this type of insect damage                 
is to try to find leaves of plants which have no sign of injury                 
from chewing insects. Cabbageworms, armyworms, grasshoppers, the                
Colorado potato beetle and the cankerworm are common examples of                
insects that cause injury by chewing.                                           
                                                                                
A second important way in which insects feed on growing plants is               
by piercing the epidermis (skin) and sucking out the sap from the               
cells within. These insects have a slender and sharp pointed                    
mouthpart which is thrust into the plant and through which sap is               
sucked. The hole made in this way is so small that it cannot be                 
seen with the unaided eye, but the withdrawal of the sap results                
in one or more of the following symptoms: minute spotting of                    
white, brown, or red on leaves, fruits or twigs; curling of the                 
leaves; deforming of the fruit; or a general wilting, browning                  
and dying of the whole plant. Aphids, scale insects, the squash                 
bug, leafhoppers, and plant bugs are well known examples of                     
piercing sucking insects.                                                       
                                                                                
As long as an insect feeds externally upon crops, it can usually                
be destroyed by insecticides. But many of the worst pests feed                  
within the plant tissues during a part or all of their life. They               
enter the plant either by having the egg thrust into the tissues                
by the sharp ovipositor of the parent insect or by eating their                 
way in after they hatch from the eggs. The hole by which they                   
enter is almost always minute, often invisible. A large hole in a               
fruit, seed, nut, twig, or trunk generally indicates where the                  
insect has come out and not the point where it entered.                         
                                                                                
The chief groups of internal feeders are indicated by their                     
common group names: (a) borers in wood or pith; (b) worms or                    
weevils in fruits, nuts or seeds; (c) leaf miners; and (d) gall                 
insects. Control internal insects by controlling the adults                     
before their young gain entrance to the plant.                                  
                                                                                
Almost as secure from man's attack as the internal feeders are                  
those insects that attack plants below the surface of the soil.                 
These include chewers, sap suckers, root borers, and gall                       
insects. Subterranean insects may spend their entire life cycle                 
below ground,(e.g., the woolly apple aphid); more often there is                
at least one life stage of the insect that has not taken up the                 
subterranean habit, as in the case of wireworms, root maggots,                  
pillbugs, strawberry root weevil, and grape and corn rootworms.                 
The larvae are root feeders while the adults live above ground,                 
making rapid control of the mature stage very important.                        
                                                                                
Probably 95% or more of direct injury to plants is caused by                    
insects feeding in various ways. In addition, most insects lay                  
their eggs in exactly the right place so that their young will                  
have the best chance to survive. Sometimes this provision for the               
young leads to serious injury to plants. The periodical cicada                  
deposits her eggs in the one year old growth of fruit and forest                
trees, splitting the wood so severely that the entire twig beyond               
this point often dies. It is interesting to note that these are                 
purely egg laying sites. As soon as the young hatch, they desert                
the twigs and injure the plant no further. In other cases, the                  
young subsequently feed upon the plant attacked by the egg laying               
act. For example, the plum curculio and its larvae ruin the fruit               
of apple, plum, peach, and cherry.                                              
                                                                                
Besides laying eggs in plants, insects sometimes remove parts of                
the plant for the construction of nests. This injury is more                    
interesting than it is serious. Leaf cutter bees nip out rather                 
neat circular pieces of rose and other foliage which are carried                
away and fashioned together to form thimble shaped cells one                    
above the other in a tunnel previously made in the stem of a                    
plant.                                                                          
                                                                                
In addition to causing direct damage to plants, insects spread                  
disease among plants. Since 1892, when it was first proved that a               
plant disease (fire blight of fruit trees) may be spread by an                  
insect (the honeybee), the knowledge of this subject has grown                  
rapidly. At present there is evidence that more than 200 plant                  
diseases are disseminated by insects. The majority of them, about               
150, belong to the group known as viruses, 25 or more are due to                
parasitic fungi, 15 or more are bacterial diseases, and a few are               
caused by protozoa.Vines in the Landscape                                      
                                                                                
Vines can be a versatile and interesting addition to any home                   
landscape. Often usable in places where no other plant is                       
suitable, vines may cover and soften a large blank wall, camoufl-               
age a compost pile or provide shade to a southern porch. Growing                
on a fence, a vine can be trained to have very much the same                    
effect as a hedge but with less space and less maintainence.                    
                                                                                
Before planting a vine it is important to know how far and how                  
fast it will grow. Some, such as the infamous Kudzu vine, are so                
rampant that they should not be planted at any cost. Others, such               
as some of the ivies, are slow growers and frustrate efforts to                 
achieve rapid visual change. Annual vines such as scarlet runner                
beans, sweet peas, and Luffa gourds will give rapid cover, but                  
the effect is temporary.                                                        
                                                                                
Understanding how the vine climbs will be useful in providing                   
supports and in selecting sites where the plant will be showy and               
successful without causing damage. There are basically four types               
of plants considered to be vines: twiners, climbers,                            
self-clingers, and scandent shrubs.                                             
                                                                                
Twiners utilize their curling stems to encircle anything appro-                 
priate within reach. These stems may be quite delicate but are                  
often so strong that they can girdle a young tree. The damage                   
done by honeysuckle can be seen in the dead branches of trees cut               
off from nutrients as they grow against the bounds of the                       
encircling vine.                                                                
                                                                                
Climbers cling tightly to their support with thread-like tendrils               
or, in some cases, with leaf petioles that curl around objects of               
small diameter such as wires, strings, or the vines of the                      
climber itself. Native grapes utilize their tendrils to overtake                
large trees in the forest. However, cultivated grapes have few of               
their leaves modified into these strange, but useful, appendages.               
                                                                                
Self-clingers attach themselves to walls, tree trunks, and other                
broad surfaces by holdfasts or aerial roots. Some tendril                       
climbers such as Virginia creeper can hold themselves to flat                   
surfaces with adhesive disks they develop at the tips of the                    
tendril. The hold exerted by self-clingers varies; in some, such                
as ivy, the roots tear loose from the plant before they can be                  
dislodged from the wall. Self-clingers tend to get behind window                
frames and under tiles and can be damaging to the mortar in brick               
walls if allowed to grow without maintainance.                                  
                                                                                
The smallest group of vines or vine-like plants are the scandent                
shrubs; that is, shrubs that have long, flexible branches that                  
lack means for self-support. When used as climbers, such as                     
climbing roses, these plants must be fastened to their support.                 
Selecting the type of vine best-suited to your location will                    
minimize the maintenance required and increase your gardening                   
pleasure and success.                                                           
Gardens for Celebrating                                                         
                                                                                
A well planned garden and landscape can be the source of much                   
material to help in celebrating our traditional holidays.                       
                                                                                
Corn on the cob is an American tradition for Fourth of July                     
picnics. Some gardeners like the challenge of being able to                     
harvest right in their backyard. In most parts of Virginia this                 
requires some real planning and preparation. The soil should be                 
prepared the fall before so it is ready for an early start. Clear               
plastic can be applied to the rows to warm the soil faster,                     
giving a head start of several days to a week. The                              
pre-germination of the seed, can speed up the harvest by an                     
additional day or two.                                                          
                                                                                
As a different approach to growing corn, try the decorative                     
miniature popcorn called Tom Thumb. It has three inch ears which                
are ideal for autumn dried arrangements. The ears should be                     
allowed to mature on the stalk before use. Never plant popcorn                  
and sweet corn where they can cross pollinate. The resulting crop               
would be of poor quality.                                                       
                                                                                
Labor Day is the ideal time for garden harvest picnics and most                 
garden crops lend themselves to the celebration. Halloween                      
definately demands pumpkins and there are a number of varieties                 
you might consider. Big Max and Big Moon will produce pumpkins                  
big enough for Cinderella's carriage but require an enormous                    
amount of garden space. Jack O'Lantern and Spookie have medium                  
and small size fruit respectively. Spirit produces a medium size                
fruit on a bush plant for those with small gardens. Jack Be                     
Little is the tiny ornamental pumpkin that excited everyone so                  
much this last year.                                                            
                                                                                
Thanksgiving brings to mind the herb garden with sage, thyme,                   
oregano and mints to season the feast. However, don't forget that               
the plants from your landscape can produce the table centerpiece                
and other decorative elements. Unless there has been an unusually               
severe freeze some of the late Chrysanthemum varieties will still               
be lovely. In the mountains it is wise to plant early and                       
mid-season chrysanthemum varieties for color outdoors and                       
experiment with a few late bloomers in a sheltered location for                 
Thanksgiving decorations.                                                       
                                                                                
Easy to make holiday decorations include grapevine wreaths and                  
dried flower arrangements. Annual flowers that are easy to grow                 
and can be collected all summer for fall use include: straw-                    
flowers, celosia, amaranth, blue salvia and many ornamental                     
grasses. Useful perennials for dried arrangements include yarrow,               
artemesia and lavender.                                                         
                                                                                
For Christmas decorations, landscape plants are a source of                     
celebration supplies. Magnolia leaves, fresh or treated in                      
glycerine, can be the basis for wreaths and arrangements. A few                 
pines in the landscape provide both cones and greenery.                         
Hollies are traditional but, remember that male and female                      
flowers are on separate plants and both are required for colorful               
fruit. Most hollies do not produce the display of fruit we                      
associate with English holly (Ilex aquifolium), so consider your                
plants carefully.                                                               
                                                                                
Valentine's and Mother's Day make us think of warm loving cards                 
with paper lace and flowers. Grow a few easily pressed flowers                  
this year so you can prepare the cards yourself next year. Good                 
ones to grow include pansies, Johnny-jump-ups, ranunculus, single               
flowered dianthus and any similar thin, non-fleshy flowers that                 
will dry rapidly.                                                               
                                                                                
If you add a few plants to this year's gardening plans for use                  
throughout the holiday year, you will get increased satisfaction                
from both your garden efforts and the holidays.                                 
                                                                                
Lilacs in the Landscape                                                        
                                                                                
Lilacs are among the most popular of the deciduous flowering                    
shrubs. They are highly valued for their appearance and fragrant                
flowers. The common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, and its many                       
cultivars are more popularly although mistakenly known as French                
hybrid lilacs. The name French hybrid came about because of the                 
many early lilac varieties which originated in France.                          
                                                                                
Because of their vigorous habit of growth, lilacs are ideal for                 
tall screen plantings, hedges, borders, and in mass plantings for               
their tremendous display of flowers. Few shrubs can rival lilacs                
for bloom even under adverse city conditions. They are useful as                
accent or specimen plants at the corners or along houses and                    
buildings. Another desirable landscape feature is their ability                 
to improve year after year if attention to their specific pruning               
and pest problems are met. Older lilacs display a unique and                    
attractive branching pattern in the winter when the branches are                
bare.                                                                           
                                                                                
Lilacs are quite hardy in cold climates, but require full sun to                
flower well. Lilacs are easily grown and apparently do well in                  
both acid or alkaline soil but respond with improved growth to                  
applications of limestone every three or four years where soils                 
are acid.                                                                       
                                                                                
Pruning and spraying to control pest problems are essential for                 
best growth and flowers. The lilac borer can be destructive if                  
not controlled. Oyster shell scale can be a serious problem with                
all lilacs but can be controlled with a dormant oil spray in the                
spring. The best time to spray is when the scale crawlers appear                
which is about mid to late May. In late summer the leaves may                   
become covered with powdery mildew especially after rainy spells.               
This does little harm to the plant.                                             
                                                                                
The best time to prune a lilac is right after it flowers. Pruning               
consists of removing old flower clusters and thinning out the                   
oldest branches at ground level to encourage new growth from the                
base of the plant. Outward spread of lilac shrubs can be                        
controlled by the removal of suckers. The strongest new shoots                  
should be left to take the place of the older stems which will                  
eventually be cut out.                                                          
                                                                                
Occassionally it is necessary to renew an older overgrown lilac.                
Cutting the whole plant down to within six inches of the ground                 
is a drastic means of rejuvenation. However, the plant will                     
survive. The best way to treat old plants is prune out one third                
of the older stems each year for three consecutive years. In this               
way the plant can maintain a reasonable height in the landscape                 
and still flower from the remaining wood. By the time the last                  
pruning is completed, replacement wood should be strong enough to               
support the plant and promote flowering.                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
Pine Bark Aphid                                                                 
                                                                                
An insect commonly found on pines in April is the Pine Bark                     
Aphid. This insect is evident on the bark at the base of needles,               
on twigs, and on the trunks of pines. Homeowners most often                     
identify this pest by the conspicuous, white waxy material that                 
accompanies them. This white material clings to the bark of                     
infested trees causing an almost white-washed appearance. Pines                 
affected by this insect include the Eastern White Pine, Scotch                  
Pine, and Austrian Pine but it occasionally occurs on other                     
pines. Both the nymph and adult stages of this insect cause                     
damage which is not conspicuous until large populations build up                
or moderate populations have been present for several seasons.                  
Injury to bark tissues results in shorter needle growth, shorter                
shoot growth, fewer needles, and a general weakened appearance of               
trees.                                                                          
                                                                                
The aphids are seldom seen without closely examining the twigs or               
bark with a hand lens. They are less than one sixteenth inch long               
and reddish in color. When eggs are laid, cottony masses of wax                 
are produced to cover or mix with the eggs. The cottony wax is                  
very noticeable even at a distance, and occurs in bark crevices                 
and at the bases of the needles. Eggs are reddish or purplish                   
brown.                                                                          
                                                                                
Nymphs overwinter in the cottony masses of wax found in bark                    
crevices. The white, waxy material becomes prominent in the                     
spring when the nymphs lay their eggs after some early feeding.                 
The eggs hatch in mid to late May. Winged and non-winged females                
are produced. Non-winged females are continually produced in each               
generation and remain on the same tree. Winged females migrate to               
infest new trees. Several generations occur until fall, at which                
time the nymphs return to the bark to await another spring                      
feeding.                                                                        
                                                                                
Egg laying peaks are usually accompanied by the production of the               
cottony masses. However, there is a considerable overlap in                     
generations, therefore this is not a reliable indicator of the                  
best time to attempt control measures. Spray controls are best                  
applied twice a week during May, and repeated in mid June.                      
Consult your local extension agent for the recommended type of                  
spray. A non-chemical control for small colonies is to spray the                
bark of affected trees with a high pressure water spray from the                
garden hose.                                                                    
                                                                                
(Information provided by John Weidhaas, Extension Entomologist                  
and Eric Day, Manager of the Virginia Tech Insect I.D.Lab.)                     
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
APRIL 1987  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                  
                                                                                
This material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Horticulture Extension               
Technician and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist Home Horti-                     
culture, working with John Luna, Extension Entomologist. The                    
Virginia Gardener Question Box has been developed for agent use                 
in preparing radio and newspaper features.                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
  Success with Transplanting                  42 lines                          
  Bleeding Heart                              22 lines                          
  Frequent Pruning of Shrubs                  10 lines                          
  Pruning Before Setting Out                  18 lines                          
  How to Prune Roses Properly                 16 lines                          
  Beneficial Insects                          50 lines                          
  Pregermination of Seeds                     32 lines                          
  Seed Tapes                                  12 lines                          
  Dividing Daylilies                          15 lines                          
  Leaf Cuttings                               30 lines                          
  All American Rose Selections                29 lines                          
  Hills or Rows of Cucumbers                  16 lines                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
How can I increase my success with transplanting flowers and                    
vegetables?                                                                     
                                                                                
Transplants of annual vegetables and flowers should be stocky,                  
healthy, free from disease, and have good roots. They should not                
be too small or too mature. Although tomatoes will transplant                   
well with fruits already on them, many other plants will drop                   
flowers or fruit after transplanting and most gardeners report                  
better success with tomatoes if fruit are removed. Be sure plants               
have been hardened-off so that they will easily adapt to                        
environmental change, but not so hardened that they are woody and               
yellow.                                                                         
                                                                                
Successful transplanting is achieved by interrupting plant growth               
as little as possible. This is one of the advantages of using                   
peat pellets, which do not have to be removed when transplanting.               
                                                                                
Have the garden soil prepared before transplanting. All additives               
which require time to break down, such as manures, limestone, and               
green manures, should be incorporated at least several weeks                    
before planting. Fertilizers and well-decayed compost may be                    
added just before planting.                                                     
                                                                                
Transplant on a shady day, in late afternoon, or in early evening               
to prevent wilting. It helps to water the plants several hours                  
before transplanting; if you are using bare-root plants, such as                
sweet potato slips or plants from a farm supply store, soak the                 
roots thoroughly an hour or two before setting them out in the                  
garden. Plants should not have been allowed to dry out completely               
at any time. Handle plants carefully. Avoid disturbing the roots                
or bruising the stems.                                                          
                                                                                
Dig a hole large enough to hold the roots of the plants. Set the                
plants slightly deeper than previously planted and at recommended               
intervals. Press soil firmly around the roots of transplants.                   
Pour about a cup of starter solution in the hole around the                     
plant. Fish emulsion or dilute manure tea may also be used.                     
                                                                                
For a few days after transplanting, protect the plants from wind                
and sun by placing a piece of newspaper or cardboard on their                   
south sides, or by covering with baskets, or flower pots. Water                 
the plants once or twice during the next week if there is                       
insufficient rain.                                                              
                                                                                
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Why isn't my bleeding heart blooming? Can I move it inside? Will                
it bloom there?                                                                 
                                                                                
Without information on the age of the plant, its location, and                  
and recent changes in its environment the cause of the problem is               
difficult to determine. However, there are several possible                     
explanations for the lack of flowers on the bleeding heart plant,               
(Dicentra spectabilis).                                                         
                                                                                
     1) The site is too dry. Bleeding hearts prefer moist soil.                 
     2) The location is too shaded. Although bleeding hearts                    
        thrive in light shade, too little sunlight would reduce                 
        flowering.                                                              
     3) The plant may be old and in need of rejuvination. If so,                
        divide and replant it when the foliage has turned yellow                
        after flowering.                                                        
     4) Any significant changes, such as the over-use of nitrogen               
        fertilizer, may cause a change in flower production.                    
                                                                                
Bleeding heart is unsuitable as a house plant. They require much                
space and require a dormant period. They are commonly confused                  
with the bleeding-heart vine, (Clerodendrum Thomsoniae), a                      
houseplant similiar in flower and name.                                         
                                                                                
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I have to prune one of my shrubs frequently. Is there something I               
can do to slow down its growth?                                                 
                                                                                
Over time, trees and shrubs will often grow to sizes that exceed                
the space allowed for them. Where space is limited, regular                     
pruning becomes necessary to keep plants in bounds. To reduce                   
labor, select plants that will not exceed allotted space. There                 
are dwarf shrubs now available to fit almost any need. If you are               
not prepared to replant your shrubs at this time the only                       
suggestion would be to avoid fertilizing and stimulating growth                 
as long as the plants have a healthy color.                                     
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
Is it necessary to prune shrubs before I set them out?                          
                                                                                
When deciduous shrubs are planted bare root, some pruning may be                
necessary. Light pruning of roots may be needed if any are                      
broken, damaged, or dead. The branches of shrubs should be pruned               
by the thinning method, not shearing, to reduce overall leaf                    
surface by approximately 30-50 percent. Remove numerous small                   
branches to accomplish this thinning without reducing the height                
of the plant or altering its basic shape.                                       
                                                                                
Shrubs transplanted with a ball of soil or from a container                     
require little if any pruning. Occasionally, branches may have                  
been damaged in transit, and these should be removed at the time                
of planting. Prune only to maintain desired size and shape.                     
                                                                                
Most evergreen trees and shrubs are sold B & B (balled and                      
burlapped) or in a container and, as with deciduous shrubs,                     
require little pruning of branches.                                             
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
Does it matter where I prune the branches on my shrubs and roses?               
                                                                                
When pruning twigs and small branches, always cut back to a                     
vigorous bud or an intersecting branch.                                         
                                                                                
When cutting back to a bud, choose a bud that is pointing in the                
direction you wish the new growth to occur. Be sure not to leave                
a stub over the bud or cut too close to the bud.                                
                                                                                
When cutting back to an intersecting (lateral) branch, choose a                 
branch that forms an angle of no more than 45 degrees with the                  
branch to be removed. Also, the branch that you cut back to                     
should have a diameter of at least one-half that of the branch to               
be removed.                                                                     
                                                                                
Make slanting cuts when removing limbs that grow upward; this                   
prevents water from collecting in the cut and expedites healing.                
                                                                                
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Should I buy predators or parasites to help control insect pests                
in my garden?                                                                   
                                                                                
Insects that eat other insects are considered in two groups known               
as predators and parasitoids. Predators are insects (or other                   
animals) that catch and devour smaller or more helpless creatures               
(called the prey), usually killing them in getting a single meal.               
The prey is generally smaller than the predator. Parasitoids are                
forms of living organisms that live on or in the bodies of living               
organisms (called the hosts) from which they get their food,                    
during at least one stage of their existence. The hosts are                     
usually larger than the parasitoids and are not killed promptly                 
but continue to live during a period of close association with                  
the parasitoids.                                                                
                                                                                
Naturally occuring predators such as ladybeetles should be                      
encouraged, but purchased ones often do not stay in the garden.                 
The trouble with ladybeetles is that their migratory habits                     
program them to fly away after they are released. Pre-                          
conditioning the ladybeetles before they're released is one way                 
to diminish this natural urge. This involves releasing the                      
beetles into cages where a high protein diet should be fed for                  
five days. Instuctions should accompany the beetles on arrival.                 
                                                                                
Another predator is the praying mantis which feeds on a wide                    
variety of insects. These predators are not as effective as other               
insects due to their low level of aggressiveness and lower rate                 
of reproduction. A better choice might be the green lacewing or                 
aphid lion. These creatures search for their prey which includes                
aphids, mealy bugs, spider mites, and thrips. One estimate                      
predicted that during its lifetime an aphid lion walks up to                    
eight miles on plant surfaces in search of pests.                               
                                                                                
Tichogramma and Encarsia formosa are examples of parasitoids                    
which are commercially available. Since parasitoids are more                    
selective than predators, parasitoids have been found to be                     
effective in 70% of all successful biological control cases.                    
Adult parasitoids, most of which are tiny wasps, usually lay                    
their eggs into the eggs or body of the host. After hatching, the               
parasitoid larvae feeds on the tissue of the host, eventually                   
killing it just prior to completion of its development.                         
                                                                                
No matter which devouring insects you choose, keep in mind these                
guidelines before ordering. Since there are several species of                  
predaceous and parasitic insects which prefer a certain pest,                   
know which pests are invading your garden and buy only the                      
species that fits your needs. Most importantly, know the life                   
cycles of the insects you want to control and plan for release of               
the predators or parasites during either the egg laying or adult                
stage depending on which you wish to control and don't spray with               
insecticides which will kill off your new "pets."                               
                                                                                
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What is the purpose of pregermination of vegetable seeds? How do                
I do it?                                                                        
                                                                                
Pregermination involves sprouting the seeds before they are                     
planted in pots or in the garden. This reduces the time to                      
germination as the temperature and moisture are easy to control                 
and guarantees a high percentage of germination since none will                 
be lost to environmental factors. Lay seeds between the folds of                
cotton cloth on a layer of vermiculite or similar material in a                 
pan. Keep moist in a warm place. When roots begin to show, place                
the seeds in containers or plant them directly in the garden.                   
While transplanting seedlings be careful not to break off tender                
roots. Continued attention to watering is critical.                             
                                                                                
When planting seeds in a container that will be set out in the                  
garden later, place one seed in a two to three inch container.                  
Plant the seeds only 1/2 the recommended depth. Gently press a                  
little soil over the sprouted seed and then add about 1/4 inch of               
milled sphagnum or sand to the soil surface. These materials will               
keep the surface uniformly moist and are easy for the shoot to                  
push through. Keep the pots in a warm place and care for them                   
just as for any other newly transplanted seedlings.                             
                                                                                
A convenient way to plant small delicate pregerminated seeds is                 
to suspend them in a gel. You can make a gel by blending corn                   
starch with boiling water to a consistency that is thick enough                 
to suspend the seeds. Be sure to cool thoroughly before                         
use. Place the gel with seedlings in a plastic bag with a hole in               
it. Squeeze the gel through the hole along a premarked garden                   
row. Spacing of seeds is determined by the number of seeds in the               
gel. If the spacing is too dense, add more gel; if too wide, add                
more seeds. The gel will keep the germinating seeds moist until                 
they establish themselves in the garden soil.                                   
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
Are seed tapes worthwhile?                                                      
                                                                                
Most garden stores and seed catalogs offer indoor and outdoor                   
seed tapes. Seed tape has precisely spaced seeds enclosed in an                 
organic, water soluble material. When planted, the tape dissolves               
and the seeds germinate normally. Seed tapes are especially                     
convenient for tiny, hard-to-handle seeds. However, tapes are                   
much more expensive per seed. Seed tapes allow uniform emergence                
of seedlings, eliminate overcrowding of seedlings and permit                    
sowing in perfectly straight rows. The tapes can be cut at any                  
point for multiple row plantings, and thinning is rarely                        
necessary. Opinion is divided on the value of seed tapes but some               
gardeners report that the convienence is worth the cost.                        
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
How often do daylilies need dividing? What is the best technique                
to use?                                                                         
                                                                                
Daylilies should be divided every three to five years, depending                
on how well they have grown. Division is best done in early                     
spring, as new shoots begin to emerge, or in the fall after the                 
plants are dormant. When dividing these, dig the whole clump.                   
Separate by using two spading forks inserted back to back into                  
the middle of the clump and then pried apart. This is less                      
damaging to the roots than cutting, which injures a large number                
of feeder roots.                                                                
                                                                                
If you are going to replant in the same location, replenish the                 
soil before planting with well-rotted compost and a fertilizer                  
high in phosphorus for root development. Space plants at two feet               
apart slightly less for dwarf cultivars.                                        
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
When and how do I make leaf cuttings?                                           
                                                                                
Leaf cuttings are used almost exclusively for a few indoor                      
plants. Leaves of most plants will either produce a few roots but               
no plant, or just decay.                                                        
                                                                                
There are several different ways of making leaf cuttings. Whole                 
leaf with petiole (ex. African Violet): Detach the leaf and 1/2                 
inch to 1 1/2 inches of petiole. Insert the lower end of the                    
petiole into the medium. One or more new plants will form at the                
base of the petiole. The leaf may be severed from the new plants                
when they have their own roots, and the petiole reused.                         
                                                                                
Whole leaf without petiole (ex. Most Succulents): This is used                  
for plants with sessile leaves, in other words leaves without a                 
petiole. Insert the cutting vertically into the medium. A new                   
plant will form from the axillary bud. The leaf may be removed                  
when the new plant has its own roots.                                           
                                                                                
Split vein (ex. Rex Begonia): Detach a leaf from the stock plant.               
Slit its veins on the lower leaf surface. Lay the cutting, lower                
side down, on the medium. New plants will form at each cut. If                  
the leaf tends to curl up, hold it in place by covering the                     
margins with the rooting medium.                                                
                                                                                
Leaf sections (ex. Snake plant): Cut snake plant leaves into two                
inch sections. Consistently make the lower cut slanted and the                  
upper cut straight so you can tell which is the top. Insert the                 
cutting vertically. Roots will form fairly soon, and eventually a               
new plant will appear at the base of the cutting. These and other               
succulent cuttings will rot if kept too moist.                                  
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
When buying roses at the local garden center, I wondered about                  
the little green and white tag with the letters AARS?                           
                                                                                
These letters stand for All-America Rose Selections, and roses                  
bearing that insignia have undergone two years of comparison with               
other new varieties as well as previously introduced ones and                   
have proven superior. This selection process helps the consumer                 
decide which of the many new varieties available each year should               
do well.                                                                        
                                                                                
In l938, the rose producers and introducers in the country                      
decided to form a non-profit organization with the purpose of                   
testing new rose varieties and determining which of them, if any,               
could be recommended to the public as exceptional. The test roses               
are judged by official AARS judges, usually  either professors in               
college horticultural departments or supervisors of large public                
gardens.                                                                        
                                                                                
During the two years of evaluation, the roses are graded by a                   
prescribed numerical scoring system on vigor, growth habit,                     
disease resistance, foliage, flower production, bud and flower                  
form, opening and finishing color, fragrance, stem, and overall                 
value.                                                                          
                                                                                
After the two-year test period, AARS compiles the scores sub-                   
mitted by each AARS judge for each entry. The scores are then                   
compared with the other roses of the same test period and with                  
the standards established by AARS for awarding the green and                    
white tag. That year's selections are then made by the AARS                     
members and publicly announced through the news media.                          
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
Should you plant cucumbers in hills or rows? Can you grow                       
cucumbers on a trellis? What causes poor fruit set?                             
                                                                                
Cucumbers take up less space when seeded in rows and trellised                  
rather than planting in hills. Space single plants 4 to 6 inches                
apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. If extra space is available,                   
planting in hills is effective.                                                 
                                                                                
You can train cucumbers on a trellis or tomato cage but they will               
need frequent attention. Plants on trellis produce straight                     
fruits which is especially important when growing long, milder-                 
flavored, burpless, or oriental cultivars.                                      
                                                                                
Poor fruit set on cucumber plants generally results from planting               
seeds too thickly, resulting in a tight canopy of leaves which                  
discourages bee activity and flower pollination. Bee activity                   
will also be slowed by excessive amounts of cool or rainy weather               
as well as the use of pesticides while the bees are active which                
reduces populations.                                                            
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
AUGUST NOTES 1986                                                               
                                                                                
* The last fall garden vegetables should be planted in August                   
in most sections of Virginia. For hardy crops like cabbage,                     
cauliflower, and collard, count back from your average first                    
frost date the number of days the particular variety requires                   
to mature and plant at that time. For half-hardy crops like                     
beets and carrots, allow an additional week. For tender crops                   
like beans and sweet corn, allow an extra 2 weeks to be sure                    
an early frost does not kill your vegetables before they mature.                
                                                                                
* If going on vacation this month, be sure to harvest all your                  
vegetables and then arrange for someone to pick such fast-matur-                
ing crops as squash and okra; otherwise, they will become                       
over-mature and stop producing.                                                 
                                                                                
* Potatoes continue to grow as long as the tops are green. Dig                  
only as many as you need for immediate use. The tubers will                     
keep better in the ground than in a warm, dry home.                             
                                                                                
* Be sure to mow the lawn before going on vacation. If you will                 
be gone over two weeks, arrange to have it cut while you are                    
away. If you don't, too much of the top growth will be removed                  
on its next mowing. Removal of over 2/3 of the growth at one                    
time weakens the plant.                                                         
                                                                                
* Cut strawflowers for winter use when the blooms are only half                 
open. Hang head down in a well-ventilated place to dry.                         
                                                                                
* Don't let your hybrid annual flowers go to seed. This weakens                 
the plant and reduces bloom. In addition, the seed are not                      
desirable to save as the plant will ordinarily be very different                
from the parent and of poorer quality.                                          
                                                                                
* Do not add weeds with ripened seed heads to your compost                      
pile. Many will remain viable and germinate wherever the compost                
is used next year.                                                              
                                                                                
* Order your spring-flowering bulbs now! Be careful about buying                
so-called "bargains," as the bulbs may be small or of inferior                  
quality.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Select a good site for spring flower bulbs. For daffodils                     
dig the soil twelve inches deep in a sunny location. Work in                    
bone meal and peat moss.                                                        
                                                                                
* Pinch off onion seed pods from the top of the plants to keep                  
them from going to seed.                                                        
                                                                                
* Pick winter squash and pumpkins with two or three inches of                   
stem; they'll keep better in storage.                                           
                                                                                
* Landscape plants, particularly trees, have important dollar                   
value and steps should be taken if anything damages or destroys                 
them. A folder is available for 10 cents from The Council of                    
Tree and Landscape Appraisers (232 Southern Bldg., Washington,                  
D.C. 20005) to help homeowners understand this value.                           
                                                                                
* August is the time to fertilize your strawberries. On plants                  
set out this spring, apply 4 to 6 ounces of ammonium nitrate                    
(33% actual nitrogen) or 12-18 oz. of 10-10-10 per 25 ft. of                    
row. Spread uniformly in a band 14" wide over the row when the                  
foliage is dry. Brush fertilizer off the leaves to avoid leaf                   
burn. For plants in the second year of growth, increase the                     
application rate to 6 to 8 oz. ammonium nitrate or 18-24 oz. of                 
10-10-10 per 25 ft. row.                                                        
                                                                                
* It's not too late to plant a fall garden. Lettuce, radishes,                  
spinach, turnip, and peas can be started from seed. Chinese                     
cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower transplants will still have                  
time to produce a good harvest. Be extra diligent in watching                   
for pests on these crops.                                                       
                                                                                
* Many plants in the flower border will make excellent house                    
plants this winter. Among the easy-to-maintain indoors are                      
begonias, coleus, geraniums, and ivy. If they are already being                 
grown in containers, it is a simple matter to bring them in-                    
doors. Start moving them in at night when the temperature                       
drops below 60 degrees F to maintain their vigor and flower                     
production. Locate them where they receive sunlight equivalent                  
to what they received out-of-doors for optimum bloom.                           
                                                                                
* Many plants growing in the ground can be successfully dug                     
and placed in pots. However, this is generally more difficult                   
and usually requires a severe pruning to insure survival. Some                  
plants are slow to recover from such treatment and may not give                 
good flowers during the winter. Cuttings taken from these plants                
started in late August and early September should make attrac-                  
tive, bushy pot plants before frosts kill the parent plant.                     
                                                                                
* Plan changes in your perennial plantings. Autumn is usually                   
the best time for moving and dividing perennials as the gardening               
pace has slowed considerably and it offers the opportunity to                   
add new bulbs to your design. Peonies, Bleeding heart, and                      
Oriental poppies resent being disturbed, so plan to work around                 
them without disturbance.                                                       
                                                                                
* Inspect your house plants for signs of insect damage. Pest                    
control is much easier and safer while the plants are outside                   
for the summer than after you bring them in this fall.                          
                                                                                
* Plant bulbs of the Hardy Amaryllis or Magic Lily in August                    
as soon as received at a depth of 5". They will produce foliage                 
in the spring which dies down by late summer. The lily-like,                    
pink flowers borne on three-foot stalks in clusters of six to                   
nine will appear in August. The bulbs will live almost indefin-                 
itely and prefer not to be disturbed.                                           
                                                                                
* Keep tall flowers staked and cut out dead stalks.                             
                                                                                
* Keep roots of lilies cool for best growth. Unless foliage                     
of surrounding plants shades the roots, mulch the ground with                   
grass clippings or similar weed-free material.                                  
                                                                                
* Do not mulch oriental poppies. They prefer hot, sun-baked                     
ground while "resting."                                                         
                                                                                
* Do not allow phlox to go to seed. Seedlings do not come true                  
to parent color and may overtake your planting, giving the                      
impression that the parent plants have reverted.                                
                                                                                
* Disbudding chrysanthemums produces larger blooms. Most mums,                  
except spray types, respond well to disbudding.                                 
                                                                                
* Fressia corms can be planted early this month for December                    
flowering. Plant 2 inches deep in pots, then place out of doors                 
in a shady place.                                                               
                                                                                
* Apples and pears trained as cordons and espaliers and other                   
formal shapes can be summer pruned in early August.                             
                                                                                
* Prop up branches of fruit trees that are threatening to break                 
under increasing weight of ripening fruit.                                      
                                                                                
* Fall is the time to rejuvenate or plant home lawns.                           
                                                                                
* Inspect trunks and branches of dogwood for injured bark or                    
fine dust being pushed from burrows in trunk by borers.                         
                                                                                
* Keep newly planted trees and shrubs well watered.                             
                                                                                
* Root cuttings of woody shrubs and evergreens, azaleas, holly,                 
hydrangea, and  verbena should do well at this time of year.                    
* Leaf miner's larvae tunnel inside leaves and produce whitish                  
trails as they move about inside leaf. Holly, boxwood, and                      
locust are particularly susceptible to damage.                                  
                                                                                
* Water shrubs deeply once a week during August. Many plants                    
(camellias, rhododendrons) are starting next season's bloom at                  
this time. Immature berries of hollies and pyracantha may be                    
lost if too dry.                                                                
                                                                                
* If azaleas look chlorotic (pale green to yellow) check pH. They               
need acid soil as alkalinity locks up soil iron needed for green                
color. Sulfur reduces pH.                                                       
                                                                                
* Take cuttings of roses to root, 6-9 inches long. Using a                      
sharp knife, remove all but top 2-3 leaves, insert 4-6 inches                   
deep in well-prepared soil in bright light out of the sun. Firm,                
water well, cover with inverted glass jar.                                      
                                                                                
* Remove bedding plants that have definitely finished blooming                  
for the season. Replace with annuals or mums.                                   
                                                                                
* Locate a manure source to start compost for next spring.                      
                                                                                
* Every weed that ripens seed means more trouble next year. Con-                
trol weeds now.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Herbs can still be harvested and used for a multitude of                      
purposes.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Sow annuals for winter flowering indoors if you have a                        
greenhouse or bright southern window. Calendulas bloom well                     
and keep long. Browallia, mignonette, ageratum, marigolds,                      
snapdragons and many others are good subjects.                                  
                                                                                
* Go over all the coldframe sashes and greenhouse glazing,                      
replacing broken glass, puttying and repainting.                                
                                                                                
* If you are planning to take some garden plants indoors to                     
provide for early fall bloom, use a sharp knife to root prune                   
them now to a size a little smaller than the pot. Remove all                    
buds and flowers and cut back the top growth severely. Water                    
well until ready to lift.                                                       
                                                                                
* Look over the house plants which are summering out of doors                   
to see that they are not suffering for want of water. Be careful                
not to disturb those now going through their rest periods.                      
                                                                                
* If you do not have a coldframe, now is a good time to plan                    
one.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Many self-sown seedlings of Hollyhocks, Larkspur, Columbine,                  
Sweet William, etc. are now appearing. If the parent plant                      
is not a hybrid the seedling should come true to type. They                     
should be carefully guarded, as this is a way to stretch your                   
garden budget.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Mound soil over the lateral or brace roots of corn stalks for                 
extra support against strong winds.                                             
                                                                                
* When cantaloupes reach softball size, place them on an inverted               
coffee can to increase the air circulation and sunlight they                    
receive. Puncture drainage holes on the can top to prevent fruit                
rot.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Pick summer squash and zucchini every day or two to keep the                  
plants producing.                                                               
                                                                                
* Remove old plants which have stopped producing to eliminate a                 
shelter for insects and disease organisms.                                      
                                                                                
* Clothing worn during pesticide handling should be laundered as                
soon as the job is finished. If you can't wash the clothing                     
immediately, store it in a plastic bag away from other clothing,                
children and pets.                                                              
                                                                                
* When washing clothing with pesticide residues, use a heavy-duty               
detergent and hot water. Use the amount of detergent recommended                
on the package. Clothing which has come in contact with full                    
strength chemicals needs to be laundered twice. You can remove                  
pesticide residues from your washer by running the machine                      
through a complete cycle using detergent, but no clothing.                      
                                                                                
* An old-time trick for germinating seeds in mid-summer is to                   
plant the seeds, water them in well, and then place a board over                
the row until the sprouts just reach the soil surface; at that                  
time remove the board.                                                          
                                                                                
* Plant a winter cover crop to enrich your garden soil. Annual                  
rye, red clover, and hairy vetch are good choices.                              
                                                                                
* A cover crop decreases erosion of the soil during the winter,                 
adds organic material when it is incorporated in the spring,                    
improves soil tilth and porosity, and adds valuable nutrients.                  
Winter cover crops can be planted as early as August 1 but should               
not be planted any later than November 1.                                       
                                                                                
* Where you have fall crops growing, you can sow cover crop seed                
between rows a month or less before expected harvest. This way                  
the cover crop gets a good start but will not interfere with                    
vegetable plant growth. Request 426-334 for list of suggested                   
cover crops.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Snap bean, tomato and pepper flowers fail to develop fruit                    
because of high daytime temperatures above 90 degrees F.                        
                                                                                
* Greening of potatoes is caused by exposure to sunlight. Cover                 
tubers that grow near the soil surface mounding up the soil                     
around the plant as it grows.                                                   
                                                                                
* Many Virginia counties have local fairs. Be sure to enter your                
vegetables, flowers, crafts and other items in the competitive                  
exhibits for ribbons and prizes.                                                
                                                                                
* By the time the seed catalogs arrive in January you will have a               
very vague idea of what this year's garden was like. Make notes                 
now so you can have a better garden next year.                                  
                                                                                
* A quick-and-easy method for reducing your slug population,                    
especially if you are squeamish about the little devils: put out                
squares of cardboard in your garden each night. In the morning,                 
pick them up and if there are any slugs clinging to the under-                  
side, discard the whole square in a trash bag. The number and                   
size of the squares depend on the size of your garden and how                   
heavy the infestation of slugs. No need for the messy and                       
tedious process of hand picking each one.                                       
                                                                                
* Check offcolor foliage, especially on conifers, for presence of               
red spider mites. If you suspect that your plants have mites,                   
hold a piece of white paper under some of the branches, then tap                
the foliage a few times. This will knock the mites onto the                     
white paper where they can be seen. If you have a magnifier (7x                 
or greater), you can easily observe mites by looking at the                     
underside of an infested leaf. Many times you will find all                     
stages of development along with cast skins and old eggs. Contact               
your agent for pesticide recommendations.                                       
                                                                                
* If your apple or pear trees have dead branches with leaves                    
still clinging to the twigs, it may be fire blight. This bacter-                
ium is best controlled by pruning. When making cuts, prune                      
at least 6" below the dead part of the twig and dip shears in a                 
10 percent bleach solution between cuts to prevent transmitting                 
the disease to healthy wood. Also avoid overfertilizing with                    
nitrogen in the spring, as succulent new wood is more susceptible               
to fire blight bacteria.                                                        
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
August 1986 Press Releases                                                      
                                                                                
Watering Landscape Plants                   65 lines                            
Butterfly-bush                              33 lines                            
Sweet Autumn Clematis                       30 lines                            
Flowering Kale                              47 lines                            
Planning for a Fall Harvest                 63 lines                            
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Watering Landscape Plants                                                       
                                                                                
Water in plants does 3 important things. The hydrogen in water                  
is a true nutrient and is required for photosynthesis (the                      
manufacture of food by the plant). Water also fills the plant                   
cells, making them firm enough to support the plant. This keeps                 
stems upright and leaves extended. In addition, water serves as a               
food carrier. Nutrients can enter plants and be used only in a                  
water solution.                                                                 
                                                                                
Water applied to soil fills up spaces between soil particles from               
the top down. A daily surface sprinkling which wets the soil to a               
depth of 1 inch or so is of little value to plants. Most plant                  
roots are at greater depths and remain in dry soil. Water should                
be applied less often and in larger quantities, so it will reach                
a depth of 5-6 inches.                                                          
                                                                                
Water should not be applied more rapidly than the soil will                     
absorb it. If applied too rapidly, water will be lost through                   
runoff and will erode the soil surface. Heavy clay soils are                    
difficult to wet and slow to dry out. They require more water                   
per application and applications at less frequent intervals than                
do sandy soils. Sandy or light soils are easy to wet, but because               
their water-holding capacity is less, they must be watered more                 
frequently than heavier soils.                                                  
                                                                                
It is possible to overwater. Plant roots need both moisture and                 
air for normal development. Adding large quantities of water too                
frequently to heavy clay soils may bring about a water-logged                   
condition. Without air, roots weaken and die. This happens most                 
frequently in disturbed soils when plants are located in clay                   
fill or in potholes in clay subsoil following construction work.                
The soil around plants in such sites should be tile-drained.                    
                                                                                
Oscillating or Rotating Sprinklers                                              
                                                                                
Place the sprinkler on a platform higher than the plants being                  
watered. Oscillating sprinklers deliver more water at the edges                 
than in the center; rotating sprinklers deliver more water at the               
center than on the outer edges. If one inch of water is to be                   
applied, operate the sprinkler until 1/2 inch of water has been                 
collected in a can placed where most water is received. Move the                
sprinkler and overlap the watering patterns.                                    
                                                                                
Trickle Irrigation                                                              
                                                                                
Several types of drip or trickle equipment are available. The                   
soaker hose is a fibrous hose that allows water to seep out all                 
along its length at a slow rate. There are also hoses with holes                
in them that do basically the same thing; water drips out the                   
holes. With the latter type, place the hose with the holes                      
pointed downward along one side of the plant or underneath a                    
plastic mulch. Measure the amount of water added by placing one                 
of the hole openings over a can.                                                
                                                                                
With an emitter system, tiny plastic tubes run to each plant,                   
supplying it with water. Measure the amount of water applied by                 
placing one tube in a can. Emitter type systems are best used                   
for small raised bed or container gardens.                                      
                                                                                
Drip (trickle) systems may have some problems with clogging from                
soil particles and/or mineral salts from water taken from springs               
or wells. New designs include filters and self-flushing emitters.               
Trickle irrigation systems are available through garden supply                  
stores and catalogs.                                                            
                                                                                
                                                                                
Butterfly-bush                                                                  
                                                                                
A nice addition to the home garden that needs late summer flower                
interest, is butterfly-bush, Buddleia davidii. This semi-woody                  
ornamental produces long panicles of fragrant flowers on arching                
canes. Blossoms vary in color between white, pink, violet, red,                 
and deep purple depending on the cultivar. Flowers which grow in                
clusters up to 10 inches long appear in late July or early August               
and persist until frost.                                                        
                                                                                
Although this shrub can reach heights of 10-15 feet, it is seldom               
seen in these dimensions because it dies back to the ground each                
year in most areas of Virginia. These bushes require pruning to                 
remove dead wood each spring.                                                   
                                                                                
The cultivars usually available at local garden shops include:                  
'White Bouquet' (white flowers), 'Charming' (pink), 'Fascination'               
(lilac-pink), 'Royal Red' (red), and 'Dubonnet' (purple). Plants                
are best used in groups in the perennial or shrub border. Flowers               
can be cut and enjoyed indoors as well.                                         
                                                                                
Buddleia davidii is one of two species of butterfly-bush hardy                  
in Virginia. Fountain buddleia (Buddleia alternifolia), the other               
species, may also be of interest to gardeners. This shrub is                    
larger (up to 20 feet) and has lilac flowers that are produced                  
earlier in the summer.                                                          
                                                                                
Butterfly-bush requires full sun exposure to flower properly.                   
Loose, loamy soil is preferred. It transplants well and has few                 
disease or pest problems. If you enjoy butterflies hovering in                  
your garden, plant this shrub; it's named butterfly-bush for good               
reason.                                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Sweet Autumn Clematis                                                           
                                                                                
The sweet autumn clematis (Clematis paniculata) is a vigorous,                  
woody climber native to Japan and adapted throughout Virginia.                  
It is an attractive vine having potential in home landscapes.                   
Ornamental features of this plant include its climbing habit,                   
dense foliage, and fragrant, showy flowers in late summer and                   
early fall.                                                                     
                                                                                
The heart-shaped 1-4" leaves of this deciduous plant remain                     
green throughout the spring, summer, and fall. Petioles (leaf                   
stalks) and tendrils wrap around structures supporting the vine                 
as it climbs. Sweet autumn clematis can grow to a height of 30                  
feet. Be sure to provide a strong trellis and plenty of room for                
this plant.                                                                     
                                                                                
The highlight of this vine lies in the plentiful snow-white                     
flowers that cover the entire plant. Fragrant panicles of 1/2 to                
1 1/2" wide flowers form August through October. The shape of                   
flowers is similar to dogwood but with oblong sepals and a more                 
dense flower mass. Since there are very few vines or other                      
landscape plants with outstanding fall bloom, this vine makes                   
a good specimen plant in almost any landscape. Silvery-plumed                   
seed heads add interest in autumn.                                              
                                                                                
Sweet autumn clematis is problably the easiest clematis to grow.                
It does well even if neglected or severely pruned. Diseases and                 
insects are seldom a problem. A light loamy soil and plenty of                  
moisture insures fast growth. Some shade, especially near the                   
roots, aids the plant.                                                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Flowering Kale                                                                  
                                                                                
A relative of cabbage and broccoli, and a variant of the leafy                  
green - curly kale, flowering kale can bring beauty to the flower               
garden or food for the table. Curly, blue-green kale is a tasty                 
vegetable, beautiful in its own right, but its show-off cousin,                 
flowering kale, puts many flowers to shame.                                     
                                                                                
During the summer, great bluish-green rosettes with a rosy blush                
at the center bring a bold texture and accent to the herbaceous                 
border. Plants thrive all summer long lending special textural                  
contrast to more conventional border plants. Try flowering kale                 
in pots on the patio for an interesting effect. When cool autumn                
settles in, the foliage of flowering kale turns vibrant pink or                 
brilliant purple.                                                               
                                                                                
Curly kale and its ornamental cousin can be enjoyed as a vegeta-                
ble in the early spring or fall. Neither do well in warm weather;               
the flavor of both plants is improved by frost.                                 
                                                                                
Kales are usually eaten cooked, but the tender new growth is                    
good raw in salads too. The flowering types add color to a green                
salad in winter. When cooked the leaves of flowering kale turn                  
green. All kale varieties are good sources of vitamin A, B com-                 
plex, C (ascorbic acid), and thiamin.                                           
                                                                                
Flowering kale, also known as ornamental cabbage, grows in almost               
any type of soil, though it prefers a loose, sandy loam. It is a                
heavy feeder with a fibrous and shallow root mass. Sidedress with               
1 1/2 oz. 33-0-0 per 10' row when plants are 4-6" tall. Plants                  
need watering in dry periods.                                                   
                                                                                
In spring and fall, full sun exposure is recommended; partial                   
shade is preferred in hot weather. Plants exposed to too much                   
heat, stressed by too little water, or planted too early in                     
spring can bolt. The same insects and diseases that plague other                
members of the cabbage family, particularly the white cabbage                   
moth and aphids, attack kale.                                                   
                                                                                
When using flowering kale in designed flower beds, seed is best                 
sown indoors in potting soil in flats or any suitable container.                
Germination occurs within 10 days when soil temperature is                      
maintained at 60-70 degrees F; this is easily accomplished when a               
heating cable is used to provide bottom heat. Seed should be                    
started six weeks prior to transplanting into the garden.                       
Harden off seedlings for seven to 10 days at temperatures 10                    
degrees lower than that in which they were started.                             
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Planning for a Fall Harvest                                                     
                                                                                
By planning and planting a fall vegetable garden it is possible                 
to have fresh vegetables up to and even past the first frosts. At               
the time when retail vegetable prices are on the rise, you can                  
be reaping large and varied harvests from your still-productive                 
garden site.                                                                    
                                                                                
When planting fall crops, prepare the soil by restoring the                     
nutrients removed by spring and summer crops. A light layer of                  
compost or aged manure, or a small application of complete                      
chemical fertilizer will boost soil nutrients in preparation for                
another crop.                                                                   
                                                                                
Dry soil may make the soil difficult to work and inhibit seed                   
germination during midsummer. Plant fall vegetables after a                     
rain when the soil is moist, or water the area thoroughly the day               
before you plant. Seeds may be planted in a shallow trench to                   
conserve moisture. Cover the seeds about twice as deeply as you                 
do in the spring.                                                               
                                                                                
An old-time trick for germinating seeds in mid-summer is to plant               
the seeds, water them in well, and then place a board over the                  
row until the sprouts just reach the soil surface; at that time                 
remove the board. Plastic sheets will also work in aiding seed                  
germination, but the plastic must be completely anchored so that                
the soil underneath does not dry out and the plastic does not                   
blow away. Plastic, especially black plastic, may cause the soil                
to get too hot. An organic mulch on top will help keep soil cool.               
Starting transplants in a shaded coldframe or in a cool indoor                  
area is another possibility.                                                    
                                                                                
Once young plants are established, a heavier mulch may be used to               
hold moisture and control weeds. Irrigate when necessary so the                 
young plants have sufficient moisture.                                          
                                                                                
Fall plantings often have fewer insect problems, as they avoid                  
the peak insect activity period of midsummer. However, some                     
insects, such as cabbageworm and corn earworm, may be even worse                
late in the year than in summer; vigilance is still required.                   
Avoid some pests and diseases by planting crops of different                    
families than were originally in that section of your garden.                   
                                                                                
Some of the best quality vegetables are produced during the warm                
days and cool nights of the fall season. These environmental                    
conditions add sugar to sweet corn and crispness to carrots.                    
Parsnips and Jerusalem artichokes are examples of crops that are                
very much improved by a touch of frost.                                         
                                                                                
The fall garden gives you a chance to try again any spring                      
failures you might have encountered. Some crops, in fact, grow                  
well only in the fall in certain areas - cauliflower and long-                  
season Chinese cabbage are two examples of crops which do not                   
produce well in Virginia's mountain areas in spring because they                
cannot reach maturity before the cool weather ends.                             
                                                                                
Many varieties of vegetables can be planted in  mid- to late                    
summer for fall harvests. Succession plantings of warm season                   
crops (such as corn and beans) can be harvested up until the                    
first killing frost. Cool season crops (such as kale, turnips,                  
mustard, broccoli, cabbage, etc.) grow well during the cool fall                
days and withstand light frosts. Timely planting is the key to a                
successful fall garden. For more information request publication                
426-334, Fall Vegetable Gardening.                                              
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
August 1986 Press Releases                                                      
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan, Horticulture                     
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Special-               
ist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has                   
been developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                   
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
Function of Water in Plants                       15 lines                      
Soil Color                                        40 lines                      
Sternbergia                                       22 lines                      
Relay Cropping                                    18 lines                      
Salt Build Up in Indoor Plants                    48 lines                      
Landscape Unity and Rhythm                        31 lines                      
Plant Nutirtion                                   78 lines                      
Fountain Grass                                    32 lines                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
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I know that water is important in plants to keep them from                      
wilting. What other functions does water serve in plants?                       
                                                                                
About 90% of the water that enters plants through the roots                     
leaves the plant through transpiration. The other 10% of the                    
water is used in chemical reactions and in maintaining plant                    
tissues.                                                                        
                                                                                
Transpiration is the process by which a plant loses water primar-               
ily from leaf stomata (pores located on the underside of leaves).               
Transpiration is necessary for mineral transport from the soil to               
the plant parts, for the cooling of plant parts through evapora-                
tion, to move sugars and plant chemicals, and for the maintenance               
of turgor pressure. The amount of water lost from the plant                     
depends on several environmental factors such as temperature,                   
humidity, and wind or air movement. As temperatures or air                      
movement increase, transpiration increases. As humidity de-                     
creases, transpiration increases.                                               
                                                                                
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In working a new garden site, I have found soil of several                      
different colors. What can I learn about soil from it's color?                  
                                                                                
When soil is examined, color is one of the first things noticed.                
Surface soil colors vary from almost white, through shades of                   
browns and grays, to black. In itself, color is of minor impor-                 
tance, but it indicates or reflects soil condi-  tions that are                 
extremely important.                                                            
                                                                                
In general, color is determined by organic matter content,                      
drainage conditions, and the degree of oxidation or extent of                   
weathering. Light colors indicate low organic matter content and                
dark colors can indicate high content. Light or pale colors in                  
the surface soil are frequently associated with relatively coarse               
texture and highly leached conditions, and occur in areas that                  
have high annual temperature. Dark colors may result from high                  
water table conditions (poor drainage), low annual temperatures,                
or other influences that induce high organic matter content and                 
at the same time slow the oxidation (burning) of organic mater-                 
ials. Or dark color may result from colors imparted by the parent               
material. Shades of red or yellow, particularly where associated                
with relatively fine textures, usually indicate that subsoil                    
material has been incorporated in the surface or plow layer.                    
                                                                                
Subsoil colors, in general, indicate air, water, and soil                       
relationships and the degree of oxidation of certain minerals in                
the soil. Red and brown subsoil colors indicate that the soil                   
allows relatively free movement of air and water. If these or                   
other bright colors persist throughout the subsoil it is indica-                
tive of favorable aeration. Some soils that are mottled (have                   
mixed colors) in the subsoil, especially where the colors are                   
shades of red and brown, are also well aerated.                                 
                                                                                
Soils with yellow-colored subsoils usually have some drainage                   
impediment. Most soils that have mottling in the subsoil,                       
especially where gray predominates, have too much water and too                 
little air (oxygen) much of the time. Red to brown color of                     
subsoils comes from iron coatings under well-aerated conditions.                
In wet soils with low oxygen levels the iron coatings are                       
chemically and biologically removed and the gray color of                       
background soil minerals shows.                                                 
                                                                                
                                                                                
Can you suggest an autumn-flowering, low-growing plant for a                    
difficult area in my yard?                                                      
                                                                                
Try Sternbergia lutea, an autumn-flowering member of the Amaryl-                
lis family with daffodil-gold flowers in the form of crocus. For                
glowing ground-level color when little else is in bloom, it is                  
peerless in borders and rock gardens, or naturalized on a                       
south-facing slope. Planted in August in full sun, each bulb                    
first produces glossy dark green 6-9 inch, strap-shaped leaves,                 
then several single-stemmed 2-4 " flowers. The flowers are long                 
lasting and weather resistant.                                                  
                                                                                
Sternbergias are hardy to at least -20 degrees F if given a                     
gritty soil with good drainage. Mulch for winter with a light                   
covering of hay that does not mat over the foliage which persists               
into spring. Set bulbs 4 inches deep and 4 inches apart, and                    
enrich the soil beneath with a handful of leafmold, plus a                      
liberal sprinkling of bonemeal. In summer, the bulbs should                     
almost literally bake in dry soil as they do in their native                    
habitat in the Middle East. This is substantially aided if the                  
gardener locates plants on a southern exposure, with a heat-                    
reflecting wall or rock behind them. Sternbergias multiply                      
readily and return reliably year after year.                                    
                                                                                
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My sister writes me that she is having great luck with relay                    
planting in her garden. Could you explain this technique?                       
                                                                                
Relaying consists of planting blocks of the same vegetable over a               
period of time. That is, a new block of the crop is planted                     
before the old one is removed. For instance, lettuce may be                     
planted at two-week intervals for a continuous harvest. This                    
method requires some forethought though as crops planted very                   
early in spring are likely to get a slower start because of low                 
temperatures. Later plantings could catch up to seeds sown                      
earlier and you can end up with more produce than you need at one               
time. At this time of the summer, you will want to plant heat-                  
tolerant varieties. Later in the season varieties which withstand               
cool temperatures will be better.                                               
                                                                                
Another way to achieve the same result is to plant at one time                  
varieties of the same vegetable which mature at different times.                
For example, some gardeners plant an early-, a mid-, and a                      
late-season corn at the same time to have a lengthy harvest.                    
                                                                                
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The soil on my houseplants has developed a white crust on the                   
top. What has happened? Will it harm the plants?                                
                                                                                
Soluble salts build up and form a yellow to white crust on soil                 
when fertilizer is applied repeatedly without sufficient water to               
leach or wash old fertilizer or salts through the soil. It also                 
occurs when water evaporates from the soil and minerals or salts                
stay behind. A ring of salt deposits may form around the drainage               
hole and on the outside of clay pots.                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
As the salts in the soil become more and more concentrated,                     
plants find it harder and harder to take up water. If salts build               
up to an extremely high level, water can be draw out of the root                
tips causing them to die.                                                       
                                                                                
Soluble salts problems commonly occur on plants in containers but               
are rarely a problem in the garden. The best way to prevent                     
soluble salt injury is to stop the salts from building up by                    
watering correctly. When water is applied, allow some water to                  
drain through and then empty the drip plate. Water equal to                     
one-tenth the volume of the pot should drain through each time                  
you water. Do not allow the pot to sit in water. If you let the                 
drained water be reabsorbed by the soil, the salts that were                    
washed out are taken back into the soil. Salts can be reabsorbed                
through the drainage hole or directly through a clay pot.                       
                                                                                
Potted plants should be leached every 4 to 6 months. Leaching is                
done by pouring a lot of water on the soil and letting it drain                 
completely. The amount of water used for leaching should equal                  
twice the volume of the pot. A 6 inch pot will hold 10 cups of                  
water so 20 cups of water are used to leach a plant in a 6 inch                 
pot. Keep the water running through the soil to wash the salts                  
out. If a layer of salts has formed a crust on top of the soil,                 
you should remove the salt crust before you begin the leaching                  
but do not remove more than 1/4 inch of soil. It is best not to                 
add more soil to the top of the pot. Leach a plant before                       
fertilizing to avoid washing away all newly added fertilizer. If                
soluble salts are build up thickly or the pot has no drainage,                  
repot the plant.                                                                
                                                                                
The level of salts that will cause injury varies with the type of               
plant and how it is being grown. A plant grown in the home may be               
injured by salts at concen-  tration of 200 ppm. The same plant                 
growing in a greenhouse where the light and drainage are good                   
will grow with salts 10 times that level, or 2000 ppm. Some                     
nurseries and plant shops leach plants to remove excess salts                   
before plants are sold. If you are not sure that has been done,                 
leach a newly purchased plant the first time you water it.                      
                                                                                
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I like many styles of gardens - formal, informal, naturalistic,                 
Oriental... but I have a regular-size city lot and do not want it               
to look too busy. Please provide a few landscaping tips for my                  
situation.                                                                      
                                                                                
A garden with too many ideas expressed in a limited area lacks                  
unity. Too many showy plants or too many accessories on the lawn                
can claim more attention than the house itself. Using too many                  
accent plants or plants with contrasting textures, form, or color               
violates the principles of unity. In order to achieve unity it is               
necessary to group or arrange different parts of the design to                  
appear as a single unit. The design should be a pleasant picture                
from every angle.                                                               
                                                                                
Every square foot of landscape does not have to have something in               
it. Such objects as bird baths and plastic yellow daisies are                   
often overused. There is an design concept expressed as "less is                
more." This statement is especially true regarding landscape                    
design. Keep the landscape simple and it will look its best.                    
Avoid cluttering the yard with unnecessary objects. This includes               
plant material, statuary, and miscellaneous objects. When too                   
many extras are introduced the yard takes on a messy appearance.                
Use statuary or specimen plants with discretion. The simplist                   
landscapes are often the most attractive. Remember, create                      
spaces, don't fill them up.                                                     
                                                                                
Rhythm is a repetition of elements which directs the eye through                
a landscape. Rhythm results only when the elements appear in                    
regular measures and in a definite direction. Rhythm can be                     
expressed in color as well as form. Use groupings of the same                   
plants or plants of the same color or size at pleasing intervals                
to achieve the feeling of rhythm in your yard.                                  
                                                                                
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I need more information on plant nutrition. I'm never sure my                   
plants are getting enough fertilizer.                                           
                                                                                
Many people confuse plant nutrition with plant fertilization.                   
Plant nutrition refers to the needs and uses of the basic                       
chemical elements in the plant. Fertilization is the term used                  
when these materials are supplied to the environment around the                 
plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element, supplied in                 
a fertilizer, can be taken up and used by the plant.                            
                                                                                
Although nutrients can be absorbed passively, research has shown                
that active absorption must take place if the plant is to grow                  
and be healthy. Some of the factors that affect nutrient absorp-                
tion are type of ion, pH, solubility of ion pairs, water, soil                  
oxygen, sugar supply, plant stress, and temperature.                            
                                                                                
Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Carbon, hydrogen, and                
oxygen are acquired by the plant from the air and water. Nitro-                 
gen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorous, and sulfur are                 
retrived from the soil. The above six elements are used in                      
relatively large amounts by the plant and are called macro-                     
nutrients. There are eight other elements that are used in much                 
smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements.                
The micronutrients, which are found in the soil, are iron, zinc,                
molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. All                 
17 elements, both macronutrients and micronutrients, are essen-                 
tial for plant growth.                                                          
                                                                                
Most of the nutrients that a plant needs are dissolved in water                 
and then absorbed by the roots. Most nutrient elements are                      
absorbed as charged ions, or pieces of molecules (which are the                 
smallest particle of a substance that can exist and still retain                
the characterictics of the substance). In order for the ions to                 
be easily absorbed, they must first be dissolved in the soil                    
solution. Some combinations of ions are easily dissolved, such as               
potassium nitrate. When other ions combine, they may precipitate                
or fall out of solution and thus become unavailable to the                      
plant. Many of the micronutrients form complex combinations with                
phosphorous and calcium and precipitate out of the soil solution                
so the nutrients cannot be easily taken up by the plant.                        
                                                                                
The water and oxygen in the soil must also be in available                      
form. Since nutrients are taken up with water, there must be                    
sufficient water for the plant to absorb.                                       
                                                                                
These chemical reactions are greatly affected by pH, which is a                 
measurement of acidity or alkalinity. If the soil pH is extremely               
high (alkaline), many of the micronutrients precipitate out of                  
solution and are unavailable to the plant. When the soil pH is                  
extremely low (acidic), some of the micronutrients become                       
extremely soluble and ion levels may become high enough to injure               
the plant. The effect of pH varies with the ion, the types of                   
ions in the soil, the type of soil and the nature of the plant                  
being cultivated. This is why you may add lime to raise pH or                   
sulfur to lower pH.                                                             
                                                                                
The balance of ions in the soil is very important. Ions of the                  
opposite charges attract each other, while ions of similar                      
charges compete for chemical interactions and reactions in the                  
environment. Some ions are more active than others or can compete               
better. For example, both calcium (Ca++) and magnesium (Mg++)                   
are cations with two charges, however, magnesium is more active.                
If both are in competition to be absorbed, the magnesium will be                
absorbed. This explains why the results of a soil test may                      
indicate that while there is sufficient calcium in the soil the                 
plant may still exhibit a calcium deficiency because of an                      
excess of the more active magnesium. What may be expressed as a                 
deficiency in one micronutrient may really be caused by an excess               
of another.                                                                     
                                                                                
Anything that lowers or prevents the production of sugars in the                
leaves can lower nutrient absorption. If the plant is under                     
stress, due to low light or extremes in temperature, nutrient                   
deficiency problems may develop. The stage of growth or how                     
actively the plant is growing may also affect the amount of                     
nutrients absorbed.                                                             
                                                                                
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Please write about fountain grass. I am considering getting some                
for my yard.                                                                    
                                                                                
Fountain grass (Pennisetum ruppelii) is one of many highly                      
ornamental grasses. Its leaves are long (1-2'), narrow, and rough               
textured. Plants have a midgreen color and grow in clumps. One to               
three-foot tall stems are sent up from July through September.                  
Stems support 10-12 inch feathery plumes in shades of white                     
to purple.                                                                      
                                                                                
Fountain grass is a half-hardy perennial, but it is best grown as               
an annual especially in the colder zones of Virginia. It may                    
possibly be grown as a perennial in zone 8 (in Virginia on the                  
eastern shore) if winter protection is provided. If grown as an                 
annual, seeds should be sown indoors during March or April in a                 
cool location (59-63 degrees F). Seedlings should be transplanted               
outdoors after danger of frost is past. If grown as a perennial,                
the clumps should be divided in April or May.                                   
                                                                                
Plant fountain grass starts 18" apart in soil that is well                      
drained. A sunny location is necessary. Plants should be shelter-               
ed from strong winds especially in winter if it is grown as a                   
perennial. Care is minimal since fountain grass is free from                    
pests and diseases. In the cooler regions of the state, gardeners               
may dig fountain grass clumps in late October and overwinter them               
in a cool greenhouse.                                                           
                                                                                
In the landscape, fountain grass makes a nice background plant or               
it may be used as an accent. The movement of plumes swaying in a                
gentle breeze creates a graceful effect. Plumes may be left on                  
plants during fall and winter to create visual interest during                  
those seasons. Alternatively, they may be cut as they dry in                    
autumn and used for indoor decoration.                                          
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Herbaeceous Plants                                                              
                                                                                
* Take cuttings of roses to root, 6-9 inches long. Using a sharp                
knife, remove all but top 2-3 leaves, insert 4-6 inches deep in                 
well-prepared soil in bright light out of the sun. Firm, water                  
well, cover with inverted glass jar.                                            
                                                                                
* Many self-sown seedlings of hollyhocks, larkspur, columbine,                  
sweet William, etc. are now appearing. If the parent plant is not               
a hybrid the seedling should come true to type. They should be                  
carefully guarded, as this is a way to stretch your garden                      
budget.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Keep tall flowers staked and cut out dead stalks.                             
                                                                                
* Plan changes in your perennial plantings. Autumn is usually the               
best time for moving and dividing perennials as the gardening                   
pace has slowed considerably and it offers the opportunity to add               
new bulbs to your design. Peonies, Bleeding heart, and Oriental                 
poppies resent being disturbed, so plan to work around them                     
without disturbance.                                                            
                                                                                
* Don't let your hybrid annual flowers go to seed. This weakens                 
the plants and reduces bloom. In addition, the seed are not                     
desirable to save as the plant will ordinarily be very different                
from the parent and of poorer quality.                                          
                                                                                
* Select a good site for spring flower bulbs. For daffodils dig                 
the soil twelve inches deep in a sunny location. Work in bone                   
meal and peat moss.                                                             
                                                                                
* Sow annuals for winter flowering indoors if you have a                        
greenhouse or bright southern window. Calendulas bloom well and                 
keep long. Browallia, mignonette, ageratum, marigolds, snapdrago-               
ns and many others are good subjects.                                           
                                                                                
* Do not mulch oriental poppies. They prefer hot, sun-baked                     
ground while "resting."                                                         
                                                                                
* Keep roots of lilies cool for best growth. Unless foliage of                  
surrounding plants shades the roots, mulch the ground with grass                
clippings or similar weed-free material.                                        
                                                                                
* If you are planning to take some garden plants indoors to                     
provide for early fall bloom, use a sharp knife to root prune                   
them now to a size a little smaller than the pot. Remove all buds               
and flowers and cut back the top growth severely. Water well                    
until ready to lift.                                                            
                                                                                
* Many plants growing in the ground can be successfully dug and                 
placed in pots. However, this is generally more difficult and                   
usually requires a severe pruning to insure survival. Some plants               
are slow to recover from such treatment and may not give good                   
flowers during the winter. Cuttings taken from these plants                     
started in late August and early September should make attrac-                  
tive, bushy pot plants before frosts kill the parent plant.                     
                                                                                
* Disbudding chrysanthemums produces larger blooms. Most mums,                  
except spray types, respond well to disbudding.                                 
                                                                                
* Cut strawflowers intended for dried flower arrangements when                  
the blooms are only half open. Tie small bundles of the flowers                 
together and hang them upside down in a well ventilated place tp                
dry.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Hot dry weather can bring on an increase in the population of                 
red spider mites. Inspect roses, evergreens and marigolds for                   
signs of pale green coloration. Verify the presence of these                    
pests by holding a white sheet of paper underneath foliage and                  
briskly tap the branch. Severely infested annuals should be                     
removed from the garden and destroyed. Perennials may require                   
treatment. If infestation is light, mites may be discouraged by a               
forceful direct spray from the water hose.                                      
                                                                                
* Since container grown plants have a limited area from which to                
absorb water, plants in a sunny location may require watering                   
several times a day. Check plants often to avoid water stress.                  
Additional watering will leach nutrients from the media. Bi-week-               
ly fertilization may be necessary to maintain vigor.                            
                                                                                
* Do not allow phlox to go to seed. Seedlings do not come true to               
parent color and may overtake your planting, giving the impressi-               
on that the parent plants have reverted.                                        
                                                                                
* When buying spring flowering bulbs a good guideline to use is                 
'biggest is best' in regard to bulb size. Be careful about so                   
called 'bargain bulbs' as they may be small or of inferior                      
quality.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Remove bedding plants that have definitely finished blooming                  
for the season. Replace with fall annuals or mums.                              
                                                                                
* Plant bulbs of the Hardy Amaryllis or Magic Lily in August as                 
soon as received at a depth of 5". They will produce foliage in                 
the spring which dies down by late summer. The lily-like, pink                  
flowers borne on three-foot stalks in clusters of six to nine                   
will appear in August. The bulbs will live almost indefinitely                  
and prefer not to be disturbed.                                                 
                                                                                
Woody Ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* Root cuttings of woody shrubs and evergreens including azaleas,               
holly,and hydrangea.                                                            
                                                                                
* Leaf miner's larvae tunnel inside leaves and produce whitish                  
trails as they move about inside leaf. Holly, boxwood, and locust               
are particularly susceptible to damage.                                         
                                                                                
* Keep newly planted trees and shrubs well watered.                             
                                                                                
* Check offcolor foliage, especially on conifers, for presence of               
red spider mites. If you suspect that your plants have mites,                   
hold a piece of white paper under some of the branches, then tap                
the foliage a few times. This will knock the mites onto the white               
paper where they can be seen. If you have a magnifier (7x or                    
greater), you can easily observe mites by looking at the undersi-               
de of an infested leaf. Many times you will find all stages of                  
development along with cast skins and old eggs. Contact your                    
agent for pesticide recommendations.                                            
                                                                                
* The American elm may not become extinct, due to the ravages of                
Dutch elm disease, according to a recent survey of 14 sites in                  
eight states where Dutch elm disease was reported 50 years ago.                 
At each site, healthy American elms were observed, including                    
trees of seed-bearing size, large trees that survived early                     
epidemics, young seedlings in abundance, and relatively new                     
populations of trees of various ages. The elm continues to                      
survive, despite earlier predictions of its impending demise.                   
                                                                                
* Inspect trunks and branches of dogwood for injured bark or fine               
dust being pushed from burrows in trunk by borers.                              
                                                                                
* If the leaves of euonymus turn yellow and drop, check the stems               
and underside of the leaves for tiny, needle-like white insects                 
with a scattering of small, brown, shell-like shapes. This is                   
euonymous scale (males are white; females brown). Climbing                      
euonymus is more susceptible than most upright forms. Contact                   
your local Extension office for approved control methods.                       
                                                                                
* When it is necessary to transplant woody plants in hot weather,               
cover them with a sheet after they are planted. Dampen the sheet                
two or three times a day with the hose, and transplants should                  
suffer less setback from transpiration losses.                                  
                                                                                
 * If azaleas look chlorotic (pale green to yellow) check                       
pH. They need acid soil as alkalinity locks up soil iron needed                 
for green color. Use agricultural sulfur to reduces pH.                         
                                                                                
* Water shrubs deeply once a week during August. Many plants                    
(camellias, rhododendrons) are developing next season's flower                  
buds at this time. Immature berries of hollies and pyracantha may               
be lost if too dry.                                                             
                                                                                
* Powdery mildew diseases attack a great many ornamentals, most                 
often in late summer when the days are warm and nights cool. Some               
mildews, particularly those on roses, apples and cherries, are                  
also increased by high humidity. Prevention by culture is the                   
first defense. Grow resistant varieties; space and prune plants                 
to improve aeration and lessen shading; water early in the day;                 
and at the base rather than on leaves and reduce nitrogen                       
applications to avoid excessive late season growth.                             
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
* August and September is the time to rejuvenate or plant home                  
lawns.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Be sure to mow the lawn before going on vacation. If you will                 
be gone over two weeks, arrange to have it cut while you are                    
away. If you don't, too much of the top growth will be removed on               
its next mowing. Removal of over 2/3 of the growth at one time                  
weakens the plant.                                                              
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* A quick-and-easy method for reducing your slug population,                    
especially if you are squeamish about the little devils: put out                
squares of cardboard in your garden each night. In the morning,                 
pick them up and if there are any slugs clinging to the under-                  
side, discard the whole square in a trash bag. The number and                   
size of the squares depend on the size of your garden and how                   
heavy the infestation of slugs.                                                 
                                                                                
* Greening of potatoes is caused by exposure to sunlight. Cover                 
tubers that grow near the soil surface mounding up the soil                     
around the plant as it grows.                                                   
                                                                                
* It's not too late to plant a fall garden. Lettuce, radishes,                  
spinach, turnip, and peas can be started from seed. Chinese                     
cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower transplants will still have                  
time to produce a good harvest. Be extra diligent in watching for               
pests on these crops.                                                           
                                                                                
* Snap bean, tomato and pepper flowers fail to develop fruit                    
because of daytime temperatures above 90 degrees F.                             
                                                                                
* The last fall garden vegetables should be planted in August in                
most sections of Virginia. For hardy crops like cabbage, caulifl-               
ower, and collard, count back from your average first frost date                
the number of days the particular variety requires to mature and                
plant at that time. For half-hardy crops like beets and carrots,                
allow an additional week. For tender crops like beans and sweet                 
corn, allow an extra 2 weeks to be sure an early frost does not                 
kill your vegetables before they mature.                                        
                                                                                
* Potatoes continue to grow as long as the tops are green. Dig                  
only as many as you need for immediate use. The tubers will keep                
better in the ground than in a warm, dry home.                                  
                                                                                
* Remove old plants which have stopped producing to eliminate a                 
shelter for insects and disease organisms.                                      
                                                                                
* Pick summer squash and zucchini every day or two to keep the                  
plants producing.                                                               
                                                                                
* When cantaloupes reach softball size, place them on an inverted               
coffee can to increase the air circulation and sunlight they                    
receive. Puncture drainage holes on the can top to prevent fruit                
rot.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Every weed that ripens seed means more trouble next year. Con-                
trol weeds now.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Locate a manure source to start compost for next spring.                      
                                                                                
* If you think you've grown a record-size vegetable, send photos,               
notarized witness identification and all pertinent background                   
data (crop, cultivar, date of planting, date of harvest, etc.) to               
Sterling Publishing Co. (2 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10016),                    
representative for the "Guiness Book of World Records."                         
                                                                                
* Mound soil over the lateral or brace roots of corn stalks for                 
extra support against strong winds.                                             
                                                                                
* Pick winter squash and pumpkins with two or three inches of                   
stem; they'll keep better in storage.                                           
                                                                                
* Roots of vine crops like cucumbers and melons usually extend as               
far as the vines and sometimes farther when grown in friable                    
garden soil. Take caution when cultivating around these crops.                  
                                                                                
* Pinch off onion seed pods from the top of the plants to keep                  
them from going to seed.                                                        
                                                                                
* When going on vacation be sure to harvest all mature vegetables               
before you leave and arrange for someone to pick fast-maturing                  
crops such as summer squash and okra. Vegetables which become                   
over mature while still on the plant signal the plant to reduce                 
flower and fruit production.                                                    
                                                                                
* If your're harvesting and must leave your produce outdoors for                
several hours, provide some shade to keep the fresh foods                       
succulent and reduce the conversion of sugars to starch.                        
                                                                                
* Dutch experiments have shown that the storage life of (both                   
green and red) tomatoes can be significantly lengthened by                      
short-term (one to three days) storage at 55 degrees F. prior to                
storage at room temperature. Total storage life was longest after               
short-term cooling for three days.                                              
                                                                                
Fruits/ Nuts                                                                    
                                                                                
* If your apple or pear trees have dead branches with leaves                    
still clinging to the twigs, it may be fire blight. This bacter-                
ium is best controlled by pruning. When making cuts, prune at                   
least 6" below the dead part of the twig and dip shears in a 10                 
percent bleach solution between cuts to prevent transmitting the                
disease to healthy wood. Also avoid overfertilizing with nitrogen               
in the spring, as succulent new wood is more susceptible to fire                
blight bacteria.                                                                
                                                                                
* Prop up branches of fruit trees that are threatening to break                 
under increasing weight of ripening fruit.                                      
                                                                                
* August is the time to fertilize your strawberries. On plants                  
set out this spring, apply 4 to 6 ounces of ammonium nitrate (33%               
actual nitrogen) or 12-18 oz. of 10-10-10 per 25 ft. of row. Spr-               
ead uniformly in a band 14" wide over the row when the foliage is               
dry. Brush fertilizer off the leaves to avoid leaf burn. For                    
plants in the second year of growth, increase the application                   
rate to 6 to 8 oz. ammonium nitrate or 18-24 oz. of 10-10-10 per                
25 ft. row.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Apples and pears trained as cordons and espaliers and other                   
formal shapes can be summer pruned in early August.                             
                                                                                
* Don't neglect plantings of strawberries, blueberries and                      
bramble fruits just because the fruit has been harvested. These                 
plants are forming buds for next year's crop. Avoid waterstress                 
now to prevent buds from shriveling.                                            
                                                                                
Indoor Plants                                                                   
                                                                                
* Look over the house plants which are summering out of doors to                
see that they are not suffering for want of water. Be careful not               
to disturb those now going through their rest periods.                          
                                                                                
* Inspect your house plants for signs of insect damage. Pest                    
control is much easier and safer while the plants are outside for               
the summer than after you bring them in this fall.                              
                                                                                
* To avoid soaking the soil when cleaning potted plants under the               
shower, slit an aluminum foil pie plate from the rim to the                     
center, turn under the cut edges, and slip it around the plant                  
stem so it covers the soil and makes the water run off.                         
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* If you do not have a coldframe, now is a good time to build                   
one.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Go over all the coldframe sashes and greenhouse glazing,                      
replacing broken glass, puttying and repainting.                                
                                                                                
* There are many resources for gardeners assisting in the                       
creation of an historical garden. Local historical societies                    
often have invaluable records, photographs and engravings.                      
Libraries at many universities, botanical gardens and horticul-                 
tural societies have numerous books--and some maintain extensive                
collections of old seed catatlogs. Horticulturists at public                    
historical gardens often will be immensely helpful. Dozens of                   
specialty seed compaies and nurseries are springing up to meet                  
the demand for "antique" plants.                                                
                                                                                
* By the time the seed catalogs arrive in January you will have a               
very vague idea of what this year's garden was like. Make notes                 
now so you can have a better garden next year.                                  
                                                                                
* Many Virginia counties have local fairs. Be sure to enter your                
vegetables, flowers, crafts and other items in the competitive                  
exhibits for ribbons and prizes.                                                
                                                                                
* Do not add weeds with ripened seed heads to your compost                      
pile. Many will remain viable and germinate wherever the compost                
is used next year.                                                              
                                                                                
* Where you have fall crops growing, you can sow cover crop seed                
between rows a month or less before expected harvest. This way                  
the cover crop gets a good start but will not interfere with                    
vegetable plant growth. Request publication 426-334 for list of                 
suggested cover crops including annual rye, red clover, and hairy               
vetch.                                                                          
                                                                                
* A cover crop decreases erosion of the soil during the winter,                 
adds organic material when it is incorporated in the spring,                    
improves soil tilth and porosity, and adds valuable nutrients.                  
Winter cover crops can be planted as early as August 1 but should               
not be planted any later than November 1.                                       
                                                                                
* An old-time trick for germinating seeds in mid-summer is to                   
plant the seeds, water them in well, and then place a board over                
the row until the sprouts just reach the soil surface; at that                  
time remove the board.                                                          
                                                                                
* Clothing worn during pesticide handling should be laundered as                
soon as the job is finished. If you can't wash the clothing                     
immediately, store it in a plastic bag away from other clothing,                
children and pets.                                                              
                                                                                
* When washing clothing containing pesticide residues, use a                    
heavy-duty detergent and hot water. Use the amount of detergent                 
recommended on the package. Clothing which has come in contact                  
with full strength chemicals needs to be laundered twice. You can               
remove pesticide residues from your washer by running the machine               
through a complete cycle using detergent, but no clothing.                      
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Press Releases August 1987                                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Extension                   
Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Home Horti-                 
culture, working with Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab, and               
James Faiszt, Extension Specialist in Horticulture. The Virginia                
Gardener Press Releases have been developed for agent use in                    
preparing radio and newspaper features and other educational                    
programs.                                                                       
                                                                                
Renovating Flower Beds for Fall                     52 lines                    
Propagating Trees and Shrubs                        67 lines                    
Anemones In Autumn                                  44 lines                    
Preserve Leaves with Glycerin                       67 lines                    
Rose Hips                                           50 lines                    
Azalea Lace Bug                                     46 lines                    
                                                                                
Renovating Flower Beds for Fall                                                
                                                                                
Renovate the landscape for fall by pulling up and disposing of                  
tired plants suffering from insect, disease or heat damage. Prune               
back or remove faded flowers from plants such as ageratum,                      
bachelor button, lobelia, annual dianthus, Black-eyed Susan                     
(Rudbeckia), snapdragons, coreopsis, phlox and verbena, allowing                
them time to bloom again before hard frosts settle in. Trim                     
begonias, coleus and annual vinca to keep them bushy.                           
                                                                                
Replace summer annual flowers that have been neglected while you                
were on vacation with cool season annuals. Look for fall blooming               
plants being highlighted at nurseries now. If your local garden                 
center does not have these plants available at this time let them               
know that there is a market for them.                                           
                                                                                
Petunias are one of the best all-around annuals available for                   
this time of year. Petunias are actually tender perennials,                     
treated as annuals, so they'll hold up and recover nicely even                  
after light frosts. They require very little care; bloom is only                
adversely affected by humid weather. Cascade petunias are the                   
all-time favorites for containers.                                              
                                                                                
Good cool season companions for petunias especially suited for                  
container plantings are the browallias. These lush, flowering                   
plants are covered with blue star-shaped flowers. There are a                   
variety of other good plants to consider to extend the range of                 
cool blues and pinks: alyssum, annual phlox, cynoglossom (Chinese               
forget-me-nots), centaurea (bachelor's button) and nierembergia                 
to name a few.                                                                  
                                                                                
Many gardeners like bright sunny colors such as yellow, orange                  
and red during cool weather as a reminder of the glory of the                   
summer just past. A daisy-flowered plant which has gotten a great               
deal of attention recently for its bright cheerful colors is                    
gazania. These plants grow with a basal rosette of attractive                   
divided leaves with flowers borne above the foliage. Gazanias                   
need little care, performing well even in hot, dry weather. They                
close their flowers in the late afternoon or when it clouds up.                 
Gazania plants should be obtained form the garden center since                  
they take a long time to bloom if directly sown from seed. Other                
good cool season flowers in bright colors include calendulas,                   
Shirley poppies, rudbeckias, and garden mums.                                   
                                                                                
When replacing flower borders, improve the soil in the beds by                  
adding organic matter, such as peat, compost or leaf mold. Some                 
gardeners who have used a heavy mulch during hot weather for weed               
and moisture control incorporate it into the soil at this time                  
and add new mulch after they've replanted. Replanting directly                  
into mulched beds without tilling is less work, but not as good                 
for the soil tilth. If you mix organic matter into the soil now,                
be sure to add nitrogen fertilizer to perk up the plants and                    
compensate for the portion of this nutrient tied up by soil                     
microorganisms as they break down organic material.                             
Propagating Trees and Shrubs from Cuttings                                      
                                                                                
Many of the trees and shrubs popular in the home landscape can be               
started from cuttings during August. With most of these plants,                 
it is not difficult to produce an abundance of tiny new plants.                 
But be warned that it may take three to five years before they                  
reach the sizes you see in the nursery. If you are equipped with                
a large supply of patience, propagating landscape plants can be                 
challenging and fun.                                                            
                                                                                
Depending on the plant involved, cuttings taken at this time of                 
the year should be semi-hardwood or softwood cuttings. Softwood                 
cuttings are taken from new growth that is still relatively soft                
and succulent before the tissue has matured or become woody. You                
can tell if the plant is in condition for rooting by trying to                  
snap off a three to six inch tip. If it breaks clean, it is                     
ready. Tips which bend instead of breaking are too soft and may                 
deteriorate before rooting. Those which are too woody will crack                
and may be slow to root.                                                        
                                                                                
Semi-hardwood or green wood cuttings differ from softwood                       
cuttings only in the maturity of the wood. For deciduous plants                 
that root better from semi-hardwood cuttings, the cuttings are                  
taken later in the season when the lower portion of the stem has                
become lignified or partially mature. Cuttings from evergreens                  
are generally obtained from new shoots, five to 10 weeks after a                
flush of growth when the wood is partially mature or semi-hard.                 
                                                                                
Make softwood cuttings three to six inches long. Remove the lower               
leaves before inserting the cuttings into the rooting medium.                   
Space cuttings so the leaves just touch each other, don't                       
overcrowd. In general, softwood cuttings root quickly in a warm,                
humid atmosphere such as a coldframe in a semi-shady location.                  
Among the landscape plants that root well as softwood cuttings                  
are abelia, pyracantha, weigela, magnolia, cotoneaster, buddleia,               
hybrid French lilac and roses.                                                  
                                                                                
To root broadleaved plants such as evergreen azaleas and holly,                 
take semi-hardwood cuttings six to eight inches long. Remove                    
leaves or small branches from the base of the cutting and insert                
it in a rooting medium. Broadleaved evergreens are easily rooted                
in a cold frame with a glass or plastic cover to increase                       
humidity. They will root more rapidly if provided with bottom                   
heat supplied with an electric heating cable. Semi-hardwood                     
cuttings allow these ornamentals to be propagated: boxwood,                     
holly,camellia, euonymus and pittosporum.                                       
                                                                                
Another type of cutting used to propagate plants is the hardwood                
cutting. This method involves taking cuttings from the previous                 
seasons growth stems usually during the dormant season. Some                    
plants can be propagated by either soft or hard wood cuttings.                  
Propagate the following deciduous shrubs by taking hardwood                     
cuttings: forsythia, privet, spirea, and honeysuckle. These                     
fruiting plants can also be propagated in this way: quince,                     
grape, gooseberry, currant and some plums. Cuttings from the                    
following narrowleaved evergreens can also be propagated using                  
hardwood: false cypress, yew, spruce, hemlock, and juniper.                     
                                                                                
During propagation, you must keep the rooting medium moist at all               
times. Do not allow it to dry out, but do not overwater. Keeping                
it soaking wet will be equally damaging. Stimulate and hasten                   
rooting of most cuttings, especially the more mature wood, with                 
root inducing powders available at most garden supply stores.                   
After the cuttings have rooted, they can be planted outdoors.                   
Leave those cuttings started in coldframes in the protected                     
location through the winter and transplant them into a growing                  
area the next spring.                                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
Anemones in Autumn                                                             
                                                                                
The beauty associated with anemones or windflowers, does not have               
to end in early summer. Fall blooming anemones, collectively                    
known as Japanese anemones, put on their floral show from late                  
summer until frost.                                                             
                                                                                
Like the early season anemones, Japanese anemones display a vivid               
profusion of mauve, rose, pink, and white blossoms. The flowers                 
which span up to three inches across, are borne on scapes 15 to                 
48 inches tall. Japanese anemone blooms last a long time on the                 
plant, but the flowers are not reliable as cut flowers.                         
                                                                                
Japanese anemones are hardy perennials capable of overwintering                 
outdoors throughout Virginia. A light organic mulch will protect                
the roots in cold areas. In rich, sandy loam, anemones spread and               
can be used in naturalizing. In areas with heavier soils, they                  
tend to remain in clumps. Well-drained garden soil amended with                 
peat or leaf mold provides a satisfactory root environment.                     
                                                                                
A sheltered location with filtered sunlight is ideal for Japanese               
anemones; but where summers are cool, they can take full sun.                   
Consider using them as border plants in rock gardens, and in open               
soil near deciduous trees. The roots dislike being disturbed so                 
the original site should be carefully chosen. Be aware that it                  
may take Japanese anemones several years to become established                  
and display their best bloom. In heavy soils, they are slow to                  
multiply, and divisions may be taken only when the clump becomes                
crowded.                                                                        
                                                                                
Root cuttings are the most common propagation method for Japanese               
anemones available to homeowners. During spring, rooted cuttings                
should be planted two inches deep in friable soil. Where the soil               
is heavy, space plants four to six inches apart. In lighter                     
soils, leave 8 to 12 inches between rooted pieces. If seeds are                 
purchased, sow them directly into the soil in autumn or early                   
spring.                                                                         
                                                                                
The lineage of Japanese anemones has become confused over the                   
years. Plants are usually marked as Anemone X hybrida, but may                  
also be sold as A. hupehensis, A. hupehensis var. japonica, and                 
A. japonica. Combining Japanese anemones with spring blooming                   
types, can extend anemone display from midsummer until frost.                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
Preserve Leaves with Glycerin                                                  
                                                                                
Foliage for use in winter arrangements may be preserved now by                  
using glycerin. The leaves of many plants make interesting                      
arrangements even without flowers particularly when combined with               
seed heads and cones.                                                           
                                                                                
The procedure is simple. All you need to do is stand the stems or               
leaves in a mixture of one part glycerin and two parts water.                   
Midsummer is a good time to get started on this project because                 
the leaves are in an active stage of growth and will absorb the                 
glycerin rapidly. Absorption usually takes about two or three                   
weeks.                                                                          
                                                                                
Many kinds of leaves can be preserved by the glycerin process.                  
Leaves from trees such as beech, birch, peach, plum, poplar are                 
satisfactory. Of the shrubs try barberry, forsythia, blueberry,                 
privet, rhododendron and rose. The leaves of many perennial                     
herbaceous plants can be used including aspidistra, canna, coral                
bells, geraniums, iris, ivy and lily-of-the-valley.                             
                                                                                
If you are unsure of preserving the leaves of a certain plant,                  
first test them while they are in the green stage. Use leaves                   
which will exhibit a pleasing autumn color or those plants which                
have the structure or texture you plan to emphasize in the                      
arrangement. Prepare a mixture of glycerin and test possible                    
selections by letting the green leaves absorb the solution. If                  
the stems readily uptake the glycerin while green, success should               
also be obtainable on foliage cut in the fall.                                  
                                                                                
Select only perfect specimens and wash the foliage with water to                
remove dirt or spray residue. If the material has woody stems,                  
cut off the last inch with a sloping cut before starting the                    
treatment. Stand the stems or leaves upright in a jar of the                    
glycerin solution. The leaves of small herbaceous plant material                
such as ivy and lily-of-the-valley, can be submerged in a half                  
and half glycerin-water solution.                                               
                                                                                
Some leaves will change color as the solution is absorbed. Allow                
the stems to remain in the solution until the color is uniform                  
to the edge of the leaf. This indicates that the absorption is                  
complete. Good air circulation and warm weather will speed up the               
absorption. Wipe the leaves occasionally with a cloth dampened                  
with the solution. This will help prevent drying before the                     
glycerin reaches the edge of the leaves. The leaves may wilt if                 
left in the solution too long. If this occurs, wipe them off and                
hang upside down to dry.                                                        
                                                                                
The effect of the glycerin treatment on the color of the dried                  
foliage depends on the plant and its relative maturity. For good                
fall color, leaves should be collected as they approach their                   
peak color. Carefully observe the gradual change in the leaves                  
for proper timing. Waiting too long will result in a dropping of                
the leaves.                                                                     
Treatment at different stages of maturity can result in different               
colors. Barberry leaves gathered in the spring will turn red,                   
those gathered in late summer and fall will turn brown. Beech,                  
crabapple, plum and forsythia retain their natural color if                     
treated early in the season otherwise a brown shade will also                   
occur. With some leaves such as flowering plum, a few drops of                  
red food coloring added to the solution will give a glossy red                  
color.                                                                          
                                                                                
Leaves preserved by glycerin should be stored in boxes to protect               
them from damage and dirt until use. Before storage, wipe the                   
leaves carefully with a soft cloth to remove excess moisture.                   
Check the boxes frequently during the first few weeks, to be sure               
there is no leakage from the leaves which might cause mold.                     
Rose Hips                                                                      
                                                                                
People have grown roses for many centuries and for many reasons.                
At the present time we use roses mainly for the beauty of the                   
flowers. However, for much of the history of the rose it was also               
used as a source of food and medicine.                                          
                                                                                
Whether the quaint recipes from early manuscripts and printed                   
herbals for such concoctions as "melroset" and "syrope of roses"                
would actually "strengthneth the heart, and taketh away the                     
shaking and trembling thereof" is undoubtedly questionable. What                
is valid is the fact that rose hips are a good source of vitamin                
C, having a much higher content than citrus fruit. During World                 
War II, with limited imports, British volunteers gathered hips                  
from the hedgerows for making the rose hip syrup distributed by                 
the Ministry of Health. However we are not suggesting them as a                 
replacement to more superior vitamin supplements on the market.                 
                                                                                
Besides being healthful, rose hips today offer the adventurous                  
cook a different ingredient. Rose hips have a tangy yet sweet                   
flavor and can be used fresh, dried, or preserved. The simplest                 
use is to steep them for a tea. Rose hip syrup, puree, jam,                     
jelly, and sauce can be used as is or as a flavoring in other                   
recipes. The hips are usually left on the bush until after the                  
first frost when they are bright red and slightly soft. Warning:                
Never use the hips of any rose treated with a pesticide.                        
                                                                                
To prepare rose hips, trim off the blossom and stem ends with                   
scissors, cut in half lengthwise, remove the tiny hairs and seeds               
in the center, and rinse. To dry the hips, simply spread the                    
prepared halves in a single layer on screens or trays and place                 
in a dehydrator, an oven on the lowest setting, or in a dark,                   
dry, well-ventilated place. Store in glass jars in a dark, cool                 
place.                                                                          
                                                                                
Rose hip puree can be added by the spoonful to soups, cereals,                  
juices, fruit salads, and sauces or spread on bread to provide                  
extra vitamin C. To make the puree, simmer 2 pounds prepared                    
fresh hips in 1 quart water until tender, or about 20 to 30                     
minutes. Puree in a food mill or processor and store in a covered               
container in the refrigerator.                                                  
                                                                                
The somewhat spherical fruit of the rose, usually red in color,                 
is seldom allowed to develop on modern garden roses, but the old-               
fashioned shrub types like the rugosas bear them abundantly. The                
hybrid shrub rose BONICA, one of the All-America Rose Selections                
for 1987, combines the best of both worlds in providing both                    
flowers and rose hips. If all this seems a bit esoteric, then                   
just enjoy the colorful hips on your shrub roses for their winter               
beauty and as food for song birds.                                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
Azalea Lace Bug                                                                
                                                                                
Wherever azaleas are grown in the United States be aware of the                 
threat of the azalea lace bug. One of the most damaging pests to                
the Rhododendron species, this tiny insect infests large or small               
plantings of this garden favorite ravaging the leaves. Unfor-                   
tunately infestations often are not discovered until the foliage                
is badly damaged, usually after the numbers of insects has                      
dwindled to where spraying will do little good. Lace bug injury                 
usually becomes most noticeable in August as a bleached or                      
stippling of the upper leaf surface. This leaf injury can give an               
azalea a grayish-green look and reduce the strength of the plant.               
                                                                                
Control measures must begin early in the season. The first step                 
is to examine the underside of the leaves of your azalea and                    
rhododendron plants beginning as early as March 1 in the                        
Tidewater region of the state. This weekly examination period                   
should continue through the spring and summer. Control measures                 
should be applied when the insects are first found on the foliage               
(adults on deciduous plants; colonies of nymphs on azalea and                   
other broadleaved evergreens). A sure indicator that lace bugs                  
have infested the plants is a rusty-brown color on the undersides               
of the leaves which is due to their excrement. Lace bugs also are               
common on other ericaceous plants including mountain laurel,                    
rhododendron, and pieris. Other species of lace bugs attack                     
cotoneaster, hawthorn, Japanese quince, oaks, pyracantha, and                   
sycamore.                                                                       
                                                                                
Lace bugs lay their elongate eggs in the leaf tissues along the                 
veins of azalea leaves. The eggs hatch in 20 to 25 days, with the               
total life cycle completing itself in 35 to 45 days. There are                  
usually two or more generations per year. The first generation of               
overwintering eggs will hatch in mid-March in the Tidewater area                
with the second broods occurring in the summer months between May               
and September. In western Virginia eggs begin to hatch in May,                  
both hatch dates are relatively dependant on the weather. If the                
spring has been unusually warm then expect a earlier hatch while                
a cool spring may postpone their emergence. Nymphs when first                   
hatched are almost colorless eventually becoming black and spiny.               
The adults are 1/8 inch long with thin lacy wings dotted with                   
brown and black markings. The small nymphs and adults cause their               
damage by sucking the sap from the underside of the leaves of the               
azalea. This feeding results in the gray splotched appearance on                
the upper leaves. Later in the season as the tissue around the                  
tiny wounds die the damage manifests itself to the dismay of the                
gardener.                                                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
August 1987  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                 
                                                                                
This material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Horticulture Extension               
Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist Home                  
Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has been                       
developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                        
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
Potato Seed Balls                                10  lines                      
Harvesting Brussels Sprouts                       7  lines                      
Leyland Cypress                                  26  lines                      
Saving Seed                                      28  lines                      
Drying Flowers                                   21  lines                      
Fothergilla                                      20  lines                      
Poppies                                          37  lines                      
Organic Fertilizers                              34  lines                      
LD50                                             17  lines                      
Strong Flavored Rutabagas                         8  lines                      
Sidedressing Vegetables                          32  lines                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
My potato plant has small green tomatoes on the top. Will they                  
ripen and become edible?                                                        
                                                                                
Potato plants sometimes produce small seed balls or true fruit.                 
Tomatoes and potatoes are closely related and the young fruit                   
look similar.  When ripe, the potato fruit normally contain many                
small seeds, although they can be seedless. If the seeds are                    
planted, they grow into new potato plants that produce tubers of                
varying sizes. However, these seed balls never produce an edible                
fruit.                                                                          
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
When do you harvest Brussels sprouts?                                           
                                                                                
Harvest as soon as the first sprouts are firm and 1 to 2 inches                 
in diameter. Start with older sprouts at the base of the plant.                 
Sprouts become firm in cool weather, and harvesting can last for                
a month or more. Brussels sprouts tolerate temperatures down to                 
about 23 to 25 degrees F.                                                       
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
I am converting a house into offices but since it lies on the                   
edge of a residential section it must be screened by plants. What               
can I plant down my property line that will grow quickly and act                
as a barrier?                                                                   
                                                                                
The best choice is Leyland Cypress (X Cupressocyparis Leylandii).               
In a situation where a rapid screen is needed this plant is                     
excellent. It is hardy from Zone 6 southward.                                   
                                                                                
Unlike some evergreens, Leyland Cypress presents a soft, feathery               
appearance in the landscape. It is also a versatile plant which                 
can be used in groups or as a formal accent as well as hedge. It                
is adaptable to soil extremes of pH and fertility including a                   
tolerance of salt spray.                                                        
                                                                                
In nature, Leyland Cypress forms a columnar to pyramidal outline.               
It is a fast growing tree in youth, producing as much as three                  
feet of new growth in a single season. Another factor in favor of               
this plant is its ability to withstand heavy pruning which allows               
hedge height maintenance.                                                       
                                                                                
Plants are best purchased in containers for less root disturbance               
in planting and transport. These trees have stringy roots which                 
make them difficult to ball and burlap. Plants can be                           
transplanted in spring or fall as long as proper watering                       
practices are observed during dry spells.                                       
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
Should I save seed from year to year from my vegetable garden?                  
                                                                                
Whether you should save vegetable seeds from one year to the next               
depends on what you mean by "saving seeds." If you mean seed from               
the crops you raise, the answer for most people is usually no,                  
although it can be an interesting hobby. If you mean seeds you                  
bought that were extra after you completed your planting, the                   
answer is a qualified yes.                                                      
                                                                                
The home gardener is usually better off not trying to save the                  
seed from the crops he has grown except for old-time varieties                  
which are not available from commercial suppliers.                              
                                                                                
Homegrown seeds may perform poorly or not at all because of                     
improper harvest and storage, or the presence of disease and                    
insects in the seed. If the seeds are hybrids, the offspring will               
not be like the parents. If you want to save seed from the                      
garden, learn what and how before you give it a try to avoid                    
wasted time and effort. See publication 426-316 available at the                
local extension office.                                                         
                                                                                
Most left over commercially produced seeds if stored properly can               
be used for at least one year. They should be put in an air tight               
container and kept in a cool, dry place such as a jar in the                    
refrigerator. A cool, dark, dry basement or unheated attic would                
also be good.                                                                   
                                                                                
Test theseed in laye winter. If germination is poor order new                   
seed.                                                                           
                                                                                
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How do I dry flowers for arrangements?                                          
                                                                                
The traditional air-drying method is still the simplest and best                
for preserving many plants for winter decorations. In addition to               
the usual celosia, ornamental grasses, seed pods of milkweed, and               
the many everlastings, it is relatively easy to air-dried flowers               
of heather, hydrangea and blue salvia; foliage of artemisia; and,               
seed pods of columbine, iris, sumac, and yucca.                                 
                                                                                
To preserve color, pick strawflowers and related plants just as                 
the flowers start to open and all others when fully mature.                     
Remove unnecessary foliage to hasten drying,and hang the plants                 
upside down in small bunches in a shaded, warm, dry, well                       
ventilated place. For curved sprays, drape the stems over a                     
rounded surface. If dried too long the flowers can change color.                
Drying is complete when the stems snap easily. Seeds for seed                   
paintings should be oven-dried to prevent germination. They can                 
be colored by dipping into fabric dye. Leaves and flowers dried                 
flat between non-textured absorbent paper under a weight can be                 
easily mounted on wood with one of the new spray-on adhesives,                  
then preserved with several coats of an acrylic medium.                         
                                                                                
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My garden is spectacular in the spring when all my azaleas and                  
rhododendrons are in bloom but in the fall it's just green. What                
can I add to this grouping for fall interest?                                   
                                                                                
Try Dwarf Fothergilla, (Fothergilla gardenii), in your                          
rhododendron bed. Fothergilla is hard to find in the nursery and                
landscape trade. However, this shrub is excellent in combination                
with azaleas and rhododendrons due to its outstanding fall color.               
Fothergilla attains a height  of only two to three feet but is                  
effective in both spring and fall. White blooms, similar in shape               
to a bottle brush, cover this plant in early May before the                     
leaves emerge. The leathery leaves remain dark green through                    
summer until fall when they gradually change to yellow, orange,                 
and scarlet providing a spectacular display, especially against                 
an evergreen background.                                                        
                                                                                
Fothergilla requires well drained, acid soil and may be grown in                
full sun or partial shade. It is also disease and insect free,                  
making it worthy of wide landscape use. This plant works well in                
borders, masses or foundation plantings but again is most often                 
found in combination with azaleas and rhododendron.                             
                                                                                
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I love poppies, what information can you give me about some of                  
the different members of this family?                                           
                                                                                
Gardeners who love the silken flowers that characterize all the                 
members of the poppy family (Papaveraceae) will find a great                    
variety obtainable today. Poppies are invaluable for bringing                   
bright color to the garden in early summer. Poppies are a diverse               
group of flowers with annuals, biennials and perennials in their                
ranks.                                                                          
                                                                                
Flanders poppy (Papaver Rhoeas), derived from the wild poppy of                 
Flanders fields, and Shirley poppies, a strain of the same                      
species,  are annuals which can be sown as the last snows melt,                 
for bloom in June and July. For long lasting bloom, the annual                  
California poppy (Eschscholzia californica) has single and double               
flowers in gold, orange, red or violet from June to October.                    
                                                                                
Iceland poppies (Papaver nudicaule) are long blooming,                          
short-lived perennials which are easy to grow. Seed sown in early               
spring will produce flowers from midsummer into fall then from                  
spring to autumn if the old flower heads are removed and not                    
allowed to set seed. Sowings can also be made in summer for bloom               
the next season. Also consider planting the dainty, low-growing                 
P. alpinum. This blooms readily from seed and prefers full sun,                 
poor soil and good drainage.                                                    
                                                                                
Golden-flowered celandine poppy, Stylophorum diphyllum is a fine                
perennial for naturalizing in partial shade and rich soil while                 
the annual prickly poppy, Argemone mexicana is good for the                     
hottest spots. The perennial Oriental poppy P. orientale blooms                 
for only a few weeks, but its huge, intense pink to red-orange or               
brick-red flowers make it an outstanding selection.                             
                                                                                
Most poppies self-sow lavishly and the seedpods are best                        
deadheaded to keep plants flowering and to control their spread.                
Some late flowers can be allowed to set seed for next year. The                 
one essential for these plants is perfect drainage.                             
                                                                                
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How are organic fertilizers different from the chemically derived               
types? Are they used differently in the garden?                                 
                                                                                
The word organic applied to fertilizers simply means that the                   
nutrients contained in the product are derived solely from the                  
remains, or a by-product of a once-living organism. Cottonseed                  
meal, blood meal, bone meal, hoof and horn meal, and all manures                
are examples of organic fertilizers. Most of these products                     
packaged as fertilizers will have the fertilizer ratios stated on               
the package labels. Most are high in just one of the three major                
nutrients and low or zero in the other two, although you may find               
some fortified with nitrogen, phosphorus, or potash for a higher                
analysis. Many are low in all three.                                            
                                                                                
Some organic materials, particularly composted manures and                      
sludges are sold as "soil conditioners" and do not have a                       
nutrient guarantee although small amounts of nutrients are                      
present.                                                                        
                                                                                
In general, organic fertilizers release nutrients over a fairly                 
long period. The potential drawback is that they may not release                
enough of their principal nutrient at one time to give the plant                
what it needs for best growth. Because organic fertilizers depend               
on soil organisms to break them down to release nutrients, most                 
of them are effective only when soil is moist and soil temper-                  
ature is warm enough for the soil organisms to be active.                       
                                                                                
Compared to synthetic fertilizer formulations, organic fertil-                  
izers contain relatively low concentrations of actual nutrients,                
but they perform other important functions which the synthetic                  
formulations do not. Some of these functions are: increasing                    
organic content of the soil, improving physical structure of the                
soil, increasing bacterial and fungal activity (particularly the                
mycorrhiza fungus which alone makes other nutrients more avail-                 
able to plants).                                                                
                                                                                
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What does LD50 mean on the pesticide label?                                     
                                                                                
The term LD50 is used to give an indication of the toxicity of                  
pesticides. LD50 stands for lethal dosage necessary to kill 50%                 
of a test population of animals. The LD50 values are measured                   
from zero up. The numbers after the 50 represent the                            
milligrams of the substance per kilogram of body weight necessary               
to kill 50% of the test population. The lower the LD50 value the                
more poisonous a pesticide is. For example, an LD50 of 5 is more                
poisonous than an LD50 of 20 because only 5 milligrams per                      
kilogram of body weight are necessary to kill 50% of the test                   
population.                                                                     
                                                                                
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What causes rutabagas to develop a strong flavor?                               
                                                                                
Rutabaga roots develop a strong flavor and become tough during                  
the hot, dry days of mid-summer. This is especially true when                   
rutabagas grow on soils that do not hold water well and are low                 
in nitrogen and potassium. Rutabagas need cool, moist conditions,               
ample space, and high balanced soil fertility for continuous                    
uniform growth and high quality.                                                
                                                                                
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During this time of the year many of my vegetable plants look                   
yellow as if something is lacking in the soil. Do I need to                     
fertilizer and what is the best method?                                         
                                                                                
By mid-season nitrogen may become limiting to some crops,                       
particularly if heavy or frequent rains earlier in the season                   
reduce soil nutrients available to plants by leaching. Plants may               
be starved of these nutrients during this time unless some                      
additions are made.                                                             
                                                                                
Sidedressing with a nitrogen fertilizer, or a complete fertilizer               
high in nitrogen is a beneficial practice for many plants.                      
Materials such as ammonium nitrate, urea, or ammonium sulfate                   
contain high levels of nitrogen and may be used for sidedressing.               
                                                                                
Ammonium nitrate may be used for sidedressing at about one-half                 
pound per 100 feet of row or 100 square feet of garden area.                    
Ammonium sulfate may be used at about 1 pound per 100 feet of                   
row. A garden fertilizer such as 10-10-10, requires about two                   
pounds per 100 feet of row.                                                     
                                                                                
Sidedressings are applied in bands or shallow trenches along each               
side of the row and about three to four inches from the row.                    
Although sidedressing may be done on only one side of a row, a                  
split application on each side of the row is less likely to burn                
roots and often gives better response.                                          
                                                                                
While sidedressings are applied to the soil surface, these                      
soluble forms of nitrogen move easily into the root zone after                  
watering or rainfall.                                                           
                                                                                
For more information ask for extension publication 426-323,                     
"Fertilizing Your Garden."                                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
December Notes                                                                  
                                                                                
* Minimizing traffic on the frozen lawn will reduce winter                      
damage.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Turn your houseplants frequently to insure uniform light                      
distribution and straighter growth. Avoid putting them on the                   
television, near the heater vents or other sources of heat. Don't               
overwater; growth has slowed significantly for the winter so less               
water and fertilizer is required.                                               
                                                                                
* Once the ground freezes in your area, mulch your perennial                    
flowers and small fruit plants to prevent winter heaving.                       
                                                                                
* Check any fruits and vegetables, or corms and tubers that you                 
have in storage. Sort out any that show signs of disease and                    
dispose of them.                                                                
                                                                                
* Start reviewing and expanding your garden notes to help with                  
next year's plans.                                                              
                                                                                
* Plan a visit to a public garden or nursery where you can                      
observe trees and shrubs in their winter phase. Some have quite                 
lovely shapes and colors that could be an asset to your land-                   
scape.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Assess the energy efficiency of your landscape. Do you have                   
evergreen trees or shrubs blocking a window where the sun's                     
warmth would be welcome? Consider replacing them with a deciduous               
plant that would let sun in in the winter but cast cooling shade                
in the summer.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Prepare gifts from your garden. Wreaths or swags from pruning                 
your evergreen will be welcome holiday decorations anywhere. If                 
you have seed from a treasured variety that you know comes back                 
the same year after year, share some with an equally treasured                  
friend. Write I.O.U.'s for perennials that you will be dividing                 
in the spring so the recipient can plan ahead for the best                      
location.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Handbook on Culinary Herbs, a complete concise manual of herbs                
for cooking, is available from the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens, 1000               
Washington Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11225 for $2.25 plus .80 postage                
and handling. They have an extensive list of handbooks on a                     
variety of horticultural topics. Write them for a complete list.                
                                                                                
* Give a friend a subscription to The Virginia Gardener--an                     
inexpensive way to say "Good Gardening" all year long.                          
                                                                                
* Dust your foliage plants or give them an occasional shower.                   
They'll get more light and grow better without a coating of dust.               
                                                                                
* Don't forget to use some of those vegetables still out in your                
garden--carrots, turnip greens, kale, or other hardy one.                       
                                                                                
* For easy "country candle sticks" cut an assortment of 5 to 7                  
small logs (approximately 2-3 inches in diameter) into lengths                  
from 3 to 6 inches. Drill holes in the log tops the diameter of                 
the candles you plan to use. A collection of these surrounded                   
with pine cones and nuts make an attractive centerpiece for                     
the holidays.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Use hair spray to keep seed heads and dried flowers intact.                   
                                                                                
* Although most people postpone this chore to late winter, grape                
vines can be pruned between Thanksgiving and the end of Decem-                  
ber. Use the long vines to make wreaths, baskets, and other                     
country decorations.                                                            
                                                                                
* Pots of narcissus started indoors now will still bring fra-                   
grance of spring before their outside cousins bloom.                            
                                                                                
* Use branches from discarded Christmas trees to mulch beds of                  
bulbs.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Both live and cut Christmas trees need water while they are                   
inside. Keep live trees indoors for a minimum of time to keep                   
them healthy.                                                                   
                                                                                
* When cutting holly and boxwood for Christmas decorations, use                 
care to prevent harm to your plants. Distribute pruning over                    
entire plant. Limit cutting to mild shaping and thinning.                       
                                                                                
* Use a combination of red and green sweet peppers frozen from                  
last summer's garden to give holiday food a seasonal flair.                     
                                                                                
* The Avant Gardener (P.O. Box 485, New York, NY 10028) gives                   
three useful resource lists for gardeners interested in growing                 
and conserving wildflowers. These are "Nursery Sources for Native               
Plants" and "Botanical Clubs and Native Plant Societies", $2 each               
from the New England Wildflower Society (Hemenway Road, Framing-                
ham, MA 01701), and the new edition of "Sources of Native Seeds                 
and Plants", $2.50 from the Soil Conservation Society of America                
(7515 Ankeny Road, Ankeny, IA 50021)--the last also includes                    
trees and shrubs.                                                               
                                                                                
* Mice chew off the bark of fruit trees at ground level or below                
and often completely girdle a tree causing it to die. To reduce                 
this damage, keep mulch pulled away from the base of the tree and               
examine it frequently for the presence of mice.                                 
                                                                                
* To prevent rabbit damage, roll or bend a strip of 1/4" galvan-                
ized screen (approximately 14" x 18") around the trunk of the                   
tree so that the long side is up and down the trunk and the edges               
overlap. Twist a small wire loosely about the center to prevent                 
the strip from unrolling. Push the lower edges well into the                    
ground. This metal guard will last indefinitely and can be left                 
in place all year.list.                                                         
                                                                                
* Before the snow sticks, do filling and grading around the                     
yard. The loose soil will settle during the cold months.                        
                                                                                
* Fresh nuts of hickory, butternut, and black walnut germinate                  
quite readily if planted outdoors approximately 1" deep. The                    
alternating freezing and thawing splits their hard shells and                   
allows the root to emerge. A small wire cage placed over the nut                
will mark planting spots and keep the squirrels from excavating                 
the seeds.                                                                      
                                                                                
* The more tender plants in rock gardens will benefit from a                    
light covering of evergreen boughs or oak branches retaining                    
their leaves. The purpose of this covering is to lessen dessica-                
tion by wind. Care must be taken not to smother the plants. You                 
should be able to see the plants through the branches.                          
                                                                                
* Early winter is a good time to collect more stones for expand-                
ing the rock garden in spring. The rocks are more visible and the               
solid ground makes a good base on which to haul stone.                          
                                                                                
* Peat moss absorbs moisture very slowly. When it is used in                    
potting soil mixes, break clods apart and moisten the material                  
slightly before incorporating it into the mixture. Ideally,                     
prepare potting soil the day before you use it so the moisture                  
equalizes throughout the mixture.                                               
                                                                                
* Chicory is an easy winter salad plant to force. Plant roots in                
a box and place in a warm, dark place such as your cellar.                      
Keep the soil moderately moist. The shoots will be ready for                    
cutting in 3-5 weeks. Rhubarb roots also respond to this treat-                 
ment.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Check dahlia tubers and gladiolus corms in storage. If they are               
sprouting, place them in a cooler spot. If they show signs of                   
shriveling, rewrap them in ventilated plastic bags. Moldy or                    
damaged roots must be removed and destroyed. Molding indicates                  
over moist conditions. Move healthy bulbs to a location with                    
better ventilation and set in dry peat moss.                                    
                                                                                
* Erect snow deflectors over shrubs under the dripline of houses                
and other buildings to protect them against avalanches off the                  
roof.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Take a few minutes to decorate your home with materials from                  
your yard. Evergreen trees such as pines, junipers, cedar and                   
arborvitae tolerate selective pruning and their fragrance adds a                
holiday touch. Among the broadleaf evergreens, cut holly, laurel,               
and boxwood sprigs.                                                             
                                                                                
* Be unconventional -- offer perennial divisons, seedlings, and                 
shrub volunteers as gifts to your gardening friends.                            
                                                                                
* Ask Santa for a special plant or garden tool for yourself.                    
Begin a collection of your favorite perennials and request a new                
plant every year. If you garden indoors, start a collection of                  
succulents which can be added to yearly.                                        
                                                                                
* For hours of windowside enjoyment, trim a tree for the birds.                 
Tie on dried fruit, suet, and peanut butter covered pine cones                  
rolled in bird seed.                                                            
                                                                                
* On very cold nights, cover cold frames in which semi-hardy                    
plants are being overwintered. Use old carpet scraps, burlap bags               
stuffed with leaves, bales of hay or soil.                                      
                                                                                
* Where snow drifts, plan to plant a windbreak next spring. Ex-                 
periment with a movable barrier to decide the best angle and                    
position for the planting.                                                      
                                                                                
* Keep several jars of sprouts going to keep your family in fresh               
greens all winter long.                                                         
                                                                                
* Move gift plants with caution. Plants shocked by the cold may                 
drop their leaves in a few days and no longer be such a lovely                  
gift. Wrap each plant in ten or more layers of newspaper. If it                 
is freezing outside, warm up the car before loading the plants.                 
                                                                                
* You still have time to make herb vinegars from chives, shallot-               
s, garlic, or any windowsill herbs for the holidays. Use approxi-               
mately 4 oz. of fresh herbs to one quart of wine vinegar. Allow                 
the herbs to infuse for at least two weeks.                                     
                                                                                
* The aim of tree wrapping is to keep the trunk from heating                    
unevenly on bright, sunny winter days. The bark tends to split as               
it cools rapidly after the winter sun has warmed the south and                  
west sides. Use commercially available tree wraps or put up                     
canvas or burlap screens to shade young fruit trees. Even a plank               
leaned up against the south side of the trunk will help. Painting               
trunks with white latex paint is a technique used in orchards                   
which achieves the same purpose. Consider this practice if you                  
have many young tender-barked trees.                                            
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
December Press Releases                                                         
                                                                                
Cranberries                               51 lines                              
Caring for Live Christmas Trees           47 lines                              
Minigreenhouse Project for Children       36 lines                              
Decorating with Houseplants               50 lines                              
Gift Plants Continue Giving               54 lines                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
CRANBERRIES                                                                     
                                                                                
     The cranberry is a traditional part of our menu and decora-                
tions during the Christmas holiday season. It is native to the                  
northeastern United States, and its commercial production is                    
confined primarily to this country. Practically the entire crop                 
is consumed in the U.S. with very small quantities being ex-                    
ported.                                                                         
     Cranberry production is a very specialized business. The                   
plants grow only in acid bogs or swampy areas, which are of no                  
value for other agricultural use. Almost half of the worlds'                    
supply is grown in Massachusetts. A few scattered fields are                    
found in Virginia, but there are no really important commercial                 
plantings in the state.                                                         
     Cranberries are not cultivated as are most horticultural                   
crops. They are grown as a solid mass of trailing evergreen                     
vines in a low flat bog, criss-crossed with drainage ditches. The               
thick mass of plants suppresses the growth of weeds.                            
     Although the cranberry is native to the cold northern                      
states, they are not extremely hardy. In their natural locations                
in bogs, the plants are usually covered by water during the                     
winter, which protects them from the cold. The commercial grower                
secures the same result by flooding his planting from November                  
until March.                                                                    
     Another reason why cranberries grow in wet swampy locations                
is that the plants have no root hairs for water intake. The                     
plants absorb water directly through the epidermis or outer layer               
of cells on the root.                                                           
     With such unusual production requirements, you can under-                  
stand why cranberries are not suggested as a crop for home                      
gardeners. In some localities you may be able to pick native                    
berries, but the best way to secure fine flavored fruit is from                 
your local food market.                                                         
     A unique aspect of cranberry production is the grading of                  
the crop. Whereas we handle most fruits with care to avoid                      
bruising, cranberries are deliberately dropped on a hard board                  
to separate the good from the bad berries. When the berries are                 
at their ideal stage of ripeness, they are firm and resilient.                  
The fruit is poured in a thin stream onto a sloping board. The                  
high quality berries bounce over a partition into a container.                  
The green and soft berries do not bounce, but roll down into a                  
bin for low grade fruit and are discarded.                                      
     The delicious unusual flavor of cranberries adds real zip to               
holiday meals. You may start with cranberry juice, cocktail, or                 
salad. Use cranberry sauce, jelly, or relish as a complement for                
meat, fish, or fowl. And close the meal with cranberry pie,                     
pudding, tarts, or cobbler.                                                     
     Cranberries are not only delicious, they are good for you.                 
They contain beneficial levels of vitamin A, ascorbic acid, and                 
thiamine. They also have an energy value of 26 calories per 100                 
grams.                                                                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
CARING FOR LIVE CHRISTMAS TREES                                                 
                                                                                
     Many Virginians continue enjoying their Christmas trees                    
long after the holiday season has passed. These persons opt to                  
buy live trees offered by the many garden centers around the                    
state.                                                                          
     If you are planning to buy a live tree for planting after                  
the season, there are certain things that you should remember.                  
Decide ahead of time where the tree will be planted and dig                     
the hole before the ground freezes. (If you live in the moun-                   
tains, this should be done immediately.)  Remember to make the                  
hole larger than the root ball of the tree. A hole two to three                 
feet wide and two to three feet deep should be sufficient for                   
most trees.                                                                     
     Fill the hole with leaves and cover it with plastic. Make                  
certain that the plastic is mounded over the leaves so that rain                
water will not puddle and pull it down. Secure the plastic                      
edges with stakes, stones, or soil and place a board on top to                  
prevent someone from tumbling into the hole.                                    
     The act of moving a live tree from the cold into a warm,                   
dry house is a shock to the tree's system; do it gradually,                     
if possible. Keep the tree indoors for as short a period as                     
necessary, several days rather than several weeks, to prevent                   
the tree from drying out.                                                       
     Water the root ball to keep the roots moist while the tree                 
is indoors. Wrapping the root ball in plastic prevents water                    
from ruining the floor and helps preserve the moisture. But take                
care not to let roots sit in a puddle of water.                                 
     When planting the tree after Christmas, remove the protect-                
ive plastic from around the root ball. Uncover the hole, and                    
remove the leaves. Burlap should be loosened from around the                    
trunk but you do not need to remove it from the roots. You                      
should however make sure that no burlap will be exposed to the                  
air after filling in the hole as it will wick water away from                   
the roots. If the root ball has been wrapped with plastic or                    
vinyl, remove this covering before planting as it will not                      
decompose but will restrict the roots.                                          
     Set the tree so that it will grow at the same level at                     
which it was growing before being removed. Add soil to fill in                  
the hole, firming it with your feet. Soak with several buckets                  
of water. Mound the leaves around the base to prevent the deep                  
freezing of the soil and the drying of the roots. You may find                  
it necessary to thin the twigs and foliage because of the dense                 
outer growth that was created by the shearing.                                  
     If you are thinking of moving one of your own live trees,                  
remember it should be dug with an intact root ball and tightly                  
wrapped in burlap in the fall before the ground freezes.                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
MINIGREENHOUSE PROJECT FOR YOUNGSTERS                                           
                                                                                
     As the weather grows colder, youngsters need indoor projects               
to occupy the evenings. Watching their own plants start to grow                 
in a mini-greenhouse can be a good project for youngsters to see                
the development of living things.                                               
     Here are the instructions for a mini-greenhouse. The                       
materials needed are a half-gallon milk carton, a coat hanger,                  
clear plastic or a plastic bag, wire cutters, masking tape, and                 
a few plant cuttings or seeds.                                                  
     First, clean a half-gallon milk carton. Lay it on its side                 
so that the opened spout is up. Cut off the side with the spout                 
to form an open box, and punch holes for drainage along the                     
bottom.                                                                         
     With wire cutters, cut coat hanger wire and bend it so that                
it makes an arch. Fit the two wires into the box - one on each                  
end so they form arches to support the plastic roof. Tape the                   
wires into the corners of the box so they will stand up.                        
     Fill the greenhouse directly with potting soil mix or use                  
peat pots filled with potting soil inside of it. Peat pots,                     
which can be purchased at garden supply stores, make trans-                     
planting easier for the person who is planning to plant the                     
seedlings into another container.                                               
     Once the greenhouse is filled, take the piece of clear                     
plastic or the plastic bag and drape it over the entire box and                 
wires. The wires will hold the plastic up over the box and the                  
plants as they grow. Tuck the ends of the plastic under the                     
box. If you are using a plastic bag, just put the greenhouse                    
into the bag and tie the end.                                                   
     A youngster could use the mini-greenhouse to start plants                  
to use as Christmas gifts. Try using seeds from grapefruits or                  
oranges to start plants for gifts. Or, get cuttings from indoor                 
plants such as ivy or coleus to give. If the mini-greenhouse                    
can be placed in a very sunny window, the young gardener might                  
even be able to use leftover marigold or zinnia seeds and grow                  
enough to create a pot full of flowers to give at Christmas.                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
DECORATING WITH HOUSEPLANTS                                                     
                                                                                
     Many genuine plant lovers find the idea of decorating with                 
houseplants distressing since decorating, by definition, means                  
that the plants must be attractive and arranged artfully. The                   
hobbiest's clutter must be eliminated and the near-dead plants                  
removed.                                                                        
     Once people begin to see plants as assets, rather than                     
simply acquisitions, plants actually become fun and rewarding to                
have around. In fact, there are many different ways in which                    
plants can enhance your home.                                                   
     Plants may be used as an architectural or structural                       
element in a room. For example, several large plants can serve                  
as a room divider or a group of hanging baskets can act as                      
curtains in providing privacy at a window.                                      
     Plants also may serve as a form of art. Large plants with                  
distinct or unusual shapes can be displayed in the same way as                  
sculpture. Specimens of candelabra or pencil cacti are particu-                 
larly striking.                                                                 
     Caution must be exercised in selecting plants to complement                
the style of the home and furniture. Putting a cactus into a                    
French provincial living room would be counterproductive. The                   
same plant, however, would be a focal point in a Spanish,                       
Mediterranean, or modern setting.                                               
     An organized arrangement of small plants in a window or on                 
lighted shelves can serve the same function as a painting,                      
enhancing a color scheme and bringing pleasure to the viewer.                   
     Plants can add warmth and coziness to a room by softening                  
the effect of the interior architecture's straight lines. By                    
breaking up larger wall spaces and casting interesting shadows,                 
they can diminish the size of a room and make it more comfortable               
and personal. This effect can be enhanced by using lights on                    
the floor to increase wall or ceiling shadows. Ferns, ficus                     
benjamina, scheffleras, and other finer foliaged plants are                     
particularly useful to those who want to create this feeling of                 
intimacy.                                                                       
     Regardless of the decorating purpose to which you plan to                  
put your plants, there are certain guidelines to remember. Select               
plants that can do the intended job in the environmental condi-                 
tions provided. (Remember that no plant does well for long                      
in the dark.) If the plant doesn't do the job or begins to look                 
bad in a certain location, move it. You would never leave an                    
uncomfortable chair in front of the television. In a similar                    
manner, never leave your plants out of place.                                   
     Become familiar with your plants and give them what they                   
need. Different soils, various types and sizes of containers,                   
temperature, air flow and the amount of sunlight will influence                 
how much water a plant needs. Forget the idea that you can water                
all of your plants every Saturday morning and have them do well.                
Adjust your watering regimen to the individual plant's needs.                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
GIFT PLANTS CONTINUE GIVING                                                     
                                                                                
     Many of you received plants as gifts this season. To                       
assure that the plants will continue to bring you enjoyment, you                
should take certain protective steps.                                           
     Most plants need bright light, but do not place them                       
directly in the sun. Avoid putting potted plants in dry, over-                  
heated rooms. Most plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 70                 
degrees F. Remember to keep plants in locations that are free of                
drafts and where sudden temperature changes are not likely to                   
occur. Be especially careful of plants kept on window sills                     
where temperatures fluctuate widely between daytime and night.                  
     Before watering, stick a finger an inch into the soil. If                  
the soil is almost dry, water the plant remembering to keep the                 
soil moist but not wet. The water should be at or near room                     
temperature when used. The humidity around a plant can be raised                
by setting the pots on trays or pans of gravel and water.                       
     Plant foods are beneficial, but remember that a little                     
fertilizer can go a long way. Many gift plants may not need to be               
fertilized until spring.                                                        
     The special plants of the holiday season - the Christmas                   
cactus, the kalanchoe, and the poinsettia - need special care.                  
The Christmas cactus produces red flowers around Christmas                      
if given proper temperature and light conditions. It requires                   
12 or more hours of uninterrupted darkness and cool temperatures                
for several weeks before the desired bloom date. Although a                     
cactus, it will not tolerate extended dry periods, especially in                
the summer. The Christmas cactus prefers bright light but                       
should not be placed directly in the sun.                                       
     The kalanchoe is a succulent plant with bright orange or                   
red flowers. It should receive the full sun or very bright                      
light and should be watered when the soil is almost dry. The                    
kalanchoe will bloom most readily when it receives the same                     
long-night treatment that you give to the Christmas cactus.                     
     The poinsettia, a native of Mexico, has showy bracts of                    
red, pink, or white. The true flower is the small yellow one in                 
the middle of the bracts. To care for the poinsettia, remember                  
to keep temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees F and the humidity               
at more than 30 percent.                                                        
     If you would like the plant to survive to next year, you                   
should take certain steps. After the bracts and leaves have                     
dropped, start drying the plant by keeping it in a cool (50                     
degree F), dry, light place until May. Water just enough to keep                
stems and roots from becoming too dry.                                          
     In May, prune the stems to about six inches and start                      
watering and fertilizing. Place outdoors in June. Keep the                      
tips pinched off until early September when you bring the plant                 
inside and place it in a sunny window.                                          
     As the poinsettia is a short day plant, be sure it gets no                 
light from sundown to sunup as even a short period of light may                 
prevent it from flowering. The poinsettia requires 14 hours of                  
complete darkness daily from earle October until color shows,                   
which usually is around Thanksgiving. The plant then can be kept                
in the room and enjoyed as part of the holiday decorations.                     
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
December 1985 Question Box                                                      
                                                                                
Flowering plants - Cyclamen, caleolaria, cineraria   37 lines                   
Apple trees from seed                                28 lines                   
Rhododendrons - Fall bloom                           26 lines                   
Why hollies fail to bear                             25 lines                   
Hoya - Inducing flowers                              19 lines                   
Creeping groundcovers                                31 lines                   
Amaryllis                                            17 lines                   
Staghorn fern                                        23 lines                   
Growing vegetables indoors                           48 lines                   
Turf damage by skunks                                25 lines                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
I would like a flowering plant for a cool room in my house. Any                 
suggestions?                                                                    
                                                                                
Cyclamen, calceolaria, and cineraria flowers offer a wide range                 
of color during the winter in a cool room. All of these plants                  
like night temperatures from 65 degrees F down to 50 degrees and                
plenty of light.                                                                
                                                                                
Although it is not related to violet, cyclamen is commonly called               
Swiss, Alpine or Persian violet. The flowers may be white with a                
red-violet or purple center or they may be pink, salmon, red, or                
lavender. The unusual flowers consist of oval petals, which are                 
swept back from the center. In some varieties, the petals are                   
fringed. Cyclamen requires frequent light waterings. Be sure that               
the water does not stand on the exposed cormlike structure for                  
this will cause it to rot. When flowering stops, allow the leaves               
to continue to grow until they yellow. Then let the soil dry out                
and once the ground has warmed bury the pot outdoors for the                    
summer. Be sure to bring cyclamen in before the first frost. Once               
indoors, water and feed to generate new growth.                                 
                                                                                
Pocket plant or slipperwort, some common names of calceolaria,                  
refer to it's pouch-shaped flowers. The flowers come in a range                 
of warm colors: yellow, orange, bronze, red, and rose. Some                     
flowers have splotches of one color on a background of another                  
color, such as bronze on yellow. Take care in watering calceo-                  
laria because water will spot the flowers.                                      
                                                                                
Cineraria's daisy-like flowers form a canopy over the foliage in                
a range of colors from white with a dark center to pink, scarlet,               
red, crimson, sky blue or purple. Both cinerarias and calce-                    
olarias benefit from "double potting" in which a small pot                      
is placed inside a larger one. The gap between the pots is filled               
with soil or sphagnum moss which is kept wet so that the inner                  
pot stays moist. Although they are perennials, cinerarias and                   
calceolarias will grow and bloom better if started anew each                    
year. Whether you chose one, two, or all three, purchase a plant                
in bloom so that you can see the color of the flowers.                          
                                                                                
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Can I start apples from seeds?                                                  
                                                                                
The likelihood of growing a tree which bears quality fruit from a               
seed extracted from an apple is extremely slim as the varieties                 
of apples we enjoy eating result from genetic crossing or                       
selected mutations called sports. The seeds produced from these                 
cultivars do not produce trees or bear fruit which resemble their               
parents.                                                                        
                                                                                
The primary use of seed-grown apple trees is for root stocks for                
grafting known varieties of apples. However if you would like to                
experiment, now is a good time to begin the cold treatment                      
required for apple seeds to germinate in spring.                                
                                                                                
Stratification is the name given to cold storage of seeds to                    
enhance germination. In fact, some seeds will not germinate at                  
all until they receive cold temperatures for a specific amount                  
of time. Apple seeds must be held for 60 to 90 days at 35 to                    
45 degrees F in order for the seeds to germinate. Some nurseries                
plant seeds in the fall so that they naturally receive their                    
chilling requirement. If your soil is not frozen, plant seeds                   
outdoors in shallow (1/2 inch) depressions. In the spring, you                  
will need to break the soil crust over these seeds to allow the                 
seedlings to grow straight. Alternatively, you can stratify                     
seeds in the coldest part of your refrigerator until you are                    
ready for spring planting.                                                      
                                                                                
Apple seedlings that do not grow to a satisfactory  size in one                 
year should be removed. Trees grown from seeds tend to be quite                 
large. Plan accordingly in your landscape.                                      
                                                                                
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Why did my azaleas and rhododendrons bloom last month?  Will they               
bloom again in spring?                                                          
                                                                                
Extended dry periods like the one we experienced this summer will               
cause rhododendrons to go dormant. When the hurricanes affected                 
our weather last month, the deluge of rain caused the rhododen-                 
dron buds to break dormancy and bloom. The bloom last month                     
probably was not a full bloom; that is, the whole flower cluster                
did not open as it does in the spring. Unfortunately, buds that                 
did not open in those clusters will probably be killed this                     
winter because they may not be prepared for cold weather.                       
                                                                                
Because flower buds are initiated in early summer, those florets                
which opened this fall will not bloom again this spring. Thus                   
bloom was sparse this fall and will be sparse in the spring.                    
Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do to prevent this                      
since it is a weather-related problem.                                          
                                                                                
 --------------                                                                 
                                                                                
I looked forward to decorating my home with boughs from my holly                
tree. But it has no berries on it. What could be wrong?                         
                                                                                
There are a number of reasons why hollies fail to produce                       
berries. Hollies are dioecious. That is, the plants have male and               
female flowers on different plants. The berries are produced only               
from the female flowers and it is necessary to have a male plant                
nearby to provide pollination. The female of most varieties will                
flower but will not set fruit if they are not pollinated.                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Bees are the principal pollinators of holly, thus these insects                 
must be present when the flowers open if an abundant crop of                    
berries is to be produced. If insecticides toxic to bees, such as               
those containing carbaryl, were used during flowering, bees in                  
the area may have been killed before pollination consequently no                
fruit set.                                                                      
                                                                                
Late freezes or frost may kill flower buds or flowers of holly                  
before they are pollinated. This often occurs in Chinese hollies                
since they are usually early flowering. The flower buds, which                  
develop late in the summer, may be killed by cold snaps in spring               
thus eliminating the possibility of a berry crop the next summer.               
                                                                                
Hollies occasionally shed their berries in extremely dry periods,               
especially in early summer. Also, about 8 years is required for                 
the plants to become old enough to produce berries.                             
                                                                                
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My neighbor gave me a Hoya cutting. Hers is blooming like mad                   
while mine has never produced a flower. How can I get mine to                   
bloom?                                                                          
                                                                                
Hoya carnosa, or wax plant, produces clusters of waxy-looking                   
pale pink or white flowers however it is rather picky in its                    
bloom requirements. First, the plants are slow to flower often                  
taking 3-4 years to do so. They will  bloom alittle sooner if                   
potbound. Second, they must also have full sun in order to bloom.               
Even if potbound, the hoya won't bloom if grown in shade.                       
                                                                                
Hoya requires fertilization spring through fall, but reduced food               
and water during the winter. The plant needs a winter rest in                   
order to bloom. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizer when the plant                   
should be forming flower buds in late winter. If your plant still               
won't bloom, try shocking it by changing the amount of light and                
water it receives or by slightly raising or lowering the tempera-               
ture, but don't let the plant get chilled. To keep hoya blooming,               
don't pinch off old flower spurs because new flowers grow out of                
these points.                                                                   
                                                                                
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I'm interested in a creeping vine for a naturalized area. I've                  
heard crownvetch described as the "miracle groundcover."  Would                 
this be a good choice?                                                          
                                                                                
Coronilla varia is a hardy perennial which produces a luxuriant                 
mat of foliage and bears pink flowers throughout much of the                    
season. It spreads rapidly by underground stems and may be too                  
vigorous for most gardens. In order to get rid of the plant,                    
all parts must be dug out and herbicides may have to be used. In                
fact, because of its extreme vigor, I would advise against its                  
intended use except in the most out of the way places.                          
                                                                                
While not strictly vines, the following are suggested under-                    
stories that offer flower interest. For sun to partial shade,                   
Hypericum calycinum, or Potentilla x Tonguei are good choices.                  
Hypericum is a semi-evergreen shrub that will grow 12 to 18" high               
with prostrate branches spreading 18 to 24". It is fast growing                 
and spreads from underground runners. Bright yellow flowers cover               
the plant from June to September. For a shorter plant, try                      
potentilla. It only reaches a height of 3" and has a spread of                  
18". Potentilla is covered with crimsoncentered yellow flowers                  
from June until frost. Both plants work well in informal areas.                 
                                                                                
For a shady location, it would be better to plant either Lamium                 
maculatum 'Beacon Silver' or Vinca minor, periwinkle. Lamium's                  
silvery leaves edged in green can brighten a dark spot. Small                   
clusters of pink flowers offer a secondary interest in the spring               
and may sporadically appear again in the fall. Vinca forms an                   
evergreen groundcover 3-6" high and roots along the stem. A                     
multitude of lilac-blue flowers open March through April or May                 
and will appear sporadically throughout the season.                             
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
I have received a beautiful potted Amaryllis. I know these bulbs                
can be stored to use again next year. How do I do this?                         
                                                                                
After-bloom care is necessary for next season's flowers on                      
Amaryllis. In general, at least four strong leaves are needed for               
each flower stalk. As flowers fade remove the spent blooms                      
including the seed pod, but leave the stem to wither on its own.                
Locate the plant in a room which is 70 degrees F by day and 60                  
degrees F at night. Keep the bulb well-watered and fertilized                   
with a houseplant fertilizer, such as 5-10-10, weekly until early               
July. Then stop fertilizer application and taper off watering                   
gradually throughout the month. Once the foliage is dry, trim it                
off and store the pots in a dark location until next November                   
when they can be watered and forced into bloom for the holidays.                
                                                                                
Every two or three years, it is best to repot Amaryllis bulbs in                
fresh media and increase the pot size if necessary. If offsets                  
are present, you may pot them individually. Immature bulbs                      
generally require 2-3 years to reach blooming size.                             
                                                                                
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I've had a staghorn fern for several years. At first it grew                    
pretty well, but recently has begun to decline. What is wrong?                  
                                                                                
In the wild, staghorn ferns grow epiphytically, that is, living                 
on the surface of another plant, in the crotches of tree tops.                  
The ferns have two types of fronds: shield fronds and fertile                   
fronds. The shield or basal frond is sterile. It clasps the tree                
bark to anchor the fern and may form a cup in order to catch                    
debris, water, and nutrients. The fertile fronds are the most                   
visible and resemble deer antlers, thus the plants' name.                       
The staghorn fern may be grown in a pot or anchored on a wooden                 
slab like a hunting trophy. If grown in a pot, provide ample                    
humus and keep the cup formed by basal fronds moist. Immerse                    
roots for ten minutes in likewarm water once or twice a week                    
if plant is mounted on a slab of wood. Give staghorn ferns a                    
bright spot out of the sun with cool night temperatures.                        
                                                                                
If the green fronds continually die back, the fern is probably                  
receiving too much heat or hot drafts. If the green fronds dry                  
out and turn brown, the plant is either getting too much sun or                 
inconsistent watering. Be sure to deep water staghorn ferns, but                
allow to dry out slightly before next watering.                                 
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
Is it possible to grow vegetables indoors during the winter? I do               
not have a greenhouse, but I am especially interested in tomatoes               
and other salad crops which have little flavor when bought at the               
grocery.                                                                        
                                                                                
A sunny south-facing window is almost a must for indoor vegetable               
growing. Fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers will                  
also need supplemental light, such as a combination  warm                       
white/cool white fluorescent fixture. Insufficient light will                   
result in tall, spindly plants and failure to flower and set                    
fruit.                                                                          
                                                                                
The small-fruited varieties of tomatoes such as Tiny Tim, Small                 
Fry and the paste tomato, Roma, may be raised quite satisfactori-               
ly in the home. They will challenge your gardening ability, and                 
supply fruits which can be eaten whole, cooked, or served with                  
salad. The Tiny Tim tomato grows to a height of about 12-15".                   
Small Fry, which is about three feet tall, and Roma will need                   
more space and should be located on a enclosed porch or in a sun                
room. Several new varieties have been developed for hanging                     
baskets. Check catalogs for greenhouse cultivars.                               
                                                                                
Some of the small-fruited peppers may be grown as house plants.                 
Like tomatoes, they prefer warm, bright conditions in order to                  
grow well. If temperatures are kept between 60 and 85 degrees F                 
and light is sufficient, tomatoes and peppers will be ready to                  
harvest about ten to twelve weeks after transplanting. Seed-grown               
plants will take an additional six to eight weeks to bear fruit.                
                                                                                
For a quick-growing crop, try radishes. These must be grown very                
rapidly if they are to be crisp and succulent. Scatter radish                   
seeds on moist soil in a six or eight-inch pot. Cover with 1/4                  
inch of soil and place a piece of glass or plastic wrap over the                
pot to conserve moisture until the seeds germinate. Thin to about               
1 and 1/2 inches apart after the first true leave appear.                       
                                                                                
Carrots are slower growing, but they can be grown in the same way               
as radishes. Use the small-rooted varieties, such as Little                     
Finger, for best results indoors.                                               
                                                                                
Experiment with various types of lettuce. Leaf lettuce and the                  
miniture Tom Thumb butterhead are some to try. Space them                       
according to package directions. Keep lettuce moist and in a very               
sunny spot.                                                                     
                                                                                
Lettuce, radishes and carrots can be grown where the temperature                
is below that needed for tomatoes and peppers. They will produce                
crops when kept above freezing, quite readily in warm locations                 
and more slowly when cool. Take care not to overwater plants when               
the temperature is low.                                                         
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
Holes have been appearing in my yard. They are about three inches               
deep. The lawn company says it is not grubs. There are no mole                  
tunnels. What could this be?                                                    
                                                                                
The damage you describe sounds like the digging damage typically                
caused by skunks. Skunks dig cone-shaped holes 3-4" deep in the                 
ground searching for food. Some sod may be overturned in the                    
process especially where grubs have severed the grass blades                    
from the roots.                                                                 
                                                                                
Skunks do like to eat grubs which is one common reason they dig                 
in turf. However, skunks will eat other animal material which is                
high in protein and rich in calories. Some other insects in the                 
soil may have been their objective. Yellow jacket wasp larvae and               
other insects below the soil will attract them.                                 
                                                                                
The broad range of foods eaten by skunks is similar to that eaten               
by raccoons which occasionally dig at lawns. One way to find out                
which animal you are dealing with is to set several pieces of                   
cardboard covered with flour in areas where the lawn is most                    
disrupted. Animals travelling along the route will leave their                  
footprints. A book on animals tracks will let you to compare your               
visitor's tracks with common woodland animals. (Adapted from a                  
column by John K. Arbogast, Roanoke City Extension Agent)                       
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
December Notes                                                                  
                                                                                
* Give a friend a subscription to The Virginia Gardener. It's an                
inexpensive way to say "Good Gardening" all year long. A 1 year                 
subscription is only $5.00. Send orders to The Virginia Gardener,               
Va Tech Extension Distribution Center, 112 Landsdowne Street,                   
Blacksburg, VA 24060. Make check payable to Treasurer, Va Tech.                 
                                                                                
* Minimizing traffic on a frozen lawn will reduce winter damage.                
                                                                                
* Turn your houseplants frequently to insure uniform light                      
distribution and straighter growth. Avoid putting them on the                   
television, near heater vents or other sources of heat. Don't                   
overwater; growth has slowed significantly for the winter so less               
water and fertilizer is required.                                               
                                                                                
* Dust foliage plants or give them an occasional shower. They'll                
get more light and grow better without a coating of dust.                       
                                                                                
* Check any fruits and vegetables, or corms and tubers that you                 
have in storage. Sort out any that show signs of disease and                    
dispose of them.                                                                
                                                                                
* Start reviewing and expanding your garden notes to help with                  
next year's plans.                                                              
                                                                                
* Plan a visit to a public garden or nursery where you can                      
observe trees and shrubs in their winter phase. Some have quite                 
lovely shapes and colors that could be an asset to your land-                   
scape.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Assess the energy efficiency of your landscape. Do you have                   
evergreen trees or shrubs blocking a window where the sun's                     
warmth would be welcome? Consider replacing them with a deciduous               
plant that would let sun in during winter but cast cooling shade                
in summer.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Prepare gifts from your garden. Wreaths or swags from pruning                 
evergreens will be welcome holiday decorations anywhere.  While                 
you're at it, take a few minutes to decorate your home with                     
materials from the yard. Evergreen trees such as pines, junipers,               
cedar and arborvitae tolerate selective pruning and their                       
fragrance adds a holiday touch. Among the broadleaf evergreens,                 
cut holly, laurel, and boxwood sprigs.                                          
                                                                                
* When cutting evergreens for Christmas decorations, use care to                
prevent harming plants. Distribute pruning over the entire                      
plants. Limit cutting to mild shaping and thinning. Do not                      
trim boxwoods when the temperature is below 40 degrees F.                       
                                                                                
* Be unconventional -- offer perennial divisons, seedlings, and                 
shrub volunteers as gifts to your gardening friends. If you have                
seed from a treasured variety that you know comes back the same                 
year after year, share some with an equally treasured friend.                   
Write I.O.U.'s for perennials that you will be dividing in spring               
so the recipient can plan ahead for the best location.                          
                                                                                
* Don't forget to use some of those vegetables still out in your                
garden--carrots, turnip greens, kale, or other hardy ones.                      
                                                                                
* For easy "country candle sticks" cut 5 to 7 small logs (approx-               
imately 2-3 inches in diameter) into lengths from 3 to 6 inches.                
Drill holes in the log tops the diameter of the candles you plan                
to use. A collection of these surrounded with pine cones and nuts               
make an attractive centerpiece for the holidays.                                
                                                                                
* Use hair spray to keep seed heads and dried flowers intact.                   
                                                                                
* Although most people postpone this chore to late winter, grape                
vines can be pruned between Thanksgiving and the end of December.               
Use the long vines to make wreaths, baskets, and other country                  
decorations.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Pots of narcissus started indoors now will still bring the fra-               
grance of spring before their outside cousins bloom.                            
                                                                                
* Use branches from discarded Christmas trees to mulch beds of                  
bulbs.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Both live and cut Christmas trees need water while they are                   
inside. Keep live trees indoors for a minimum of time to keep                   
them healthy.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Use a combination of red and green sweet peppers frozen from                  
last summer's garden to give holiday food a seasonal flair.                     
                                                                                
* Mice chew off the bark of fruit trees at ground level or below                
and often completely girdle a tree causing it to die. To reduce                 
this damage, keep mulch pulled away from the base of the tree and               
examine it frequently for the presence of mice.                                 
                                                                                
* To prevent rabbit damage, roll or bend a strip of 1/4" galvan-                
ized screen (approximately 14" x 18") around the trunk of the                   
tree so that the long side is up and down the trunk and the edges               
overlap. To keep the strip from unrolling, insert a small wire                  
near the center of the roll and twist the ends closed. Push the                 
lower edges well into the ground. This metal guard will last                    
indefinitely and can be left in place all year.                                 
                                                                                
* Do filling and grading around the yard. The loose soil will                   
settle during the cold months.                                                  
                                                                                
* Fresh nuts of hickory, butternut, and black walnut germinate                  
quite readily if planted outdoors approximately 1" deep. The                    
alternating freezing and thawing splits their hard shells and                   
allows the root to emerge. A small wire cage placed over the nut                
will mark planting spots and keep the squirrels from excavating                 
the seeds.                                                                      
                                                                                
* The more tender plants in rock gardens will benefit from a                    
light covering of evergreen boughs or oak branches retaining                    
their leaves. The purpose of this covering is to lessen dessica-                
tion by wind. Care must be taken not to smother the plants. You                 
should be able to see the plants through the branches.                          
                                                                                
* Early winter is a good time to collect more stones for expand-                
ing the rock garden in spring. The rocks are more visible and the               
solid ground makes a good base on which to haul stone.                          
                                                                                
* Peat moss absorbs moisture very slowly. When it is used in                    
potting soil mixes, break clods apart and moisten the material                  
slightly before incorporating it into the mixture. Ideally,                     
prepare potting soil the day before you use it so the moisture                  
equalizes throughout the mixture.                                               
                                                                                
* Chicory is an easy winter salad plant to force. Plant roots in                
a box and place in a warm, dark place such as your cellar.                      
Keep the soil moderately moist. The shoots will be ready for                    
cutting in 3-5 weeks. Rhubarb roots also respond to this treat-                 
ment.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Check dahlia tubers and gladiolus corms in storage. If they are               
sprouting, place them in a cooler spot. If they show signs of                   
shriveling, rewrap them in ventilated plastic bags. Moldy or                    
damaged roots must be removed and destroyed. Molding indicates                  
over moist conditions. Move healthy bulbs to a location with                    
better ventilation and set in dry peat moss.                                    
                                                                                
* Erect snow deflectors over shrubs under the dripline of houses                
and other buildings to protect them against avalanches off the                  
roof.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Ask Santa for a special plant or garden tool for yourself.                    
Begin a collection of your favorite perennials and request a                    
new plant every year. If you garden indoors, start a collection                 
of succulents which can be added to yearly.                                     
                                                                                
* For hours of windowside enjoyment, trim a tree for the birds.                 
Tie on dried fruit, suet, and peanut butter covered pine cones                  
rolled in bird seed.                                                            
                                                                                
* Ventilate cold frames on sunny days. Do not allow plants to                   
dry out. Remove any infected plants as soon as they are noticed.                
On very cold nights, cover cold frames in which semi-hardy                      
plants are being overwintered. Use old carpet scraps, burlap bags               
stuffed with leaves, or bales of hay.                                           
                                                                                
* Where snow drifts, plan to plant a windbreak next spring. Ex-                 
periment with a movable barrier to decide the best angle and                    
position for the planting.                                                      
                                                                                
* Keep several jars of sprouts going to keep your family in fresh               
greens all winter long.                                                         
                                                                                
* Move gift plants with caution. Plants shocked by the cold may                 
drop their leaves in a few days and no longer be such a lovely                  
gift. Wrap each plant in eight to ten layers of newspaper                       
stapled shut over the foliage. If it is freezing outside, warm up               
the car before loading the plants. Cold temperatures for 'only a                
minute' can be detrimental.                                                     
                                                                                
* You still have time to make herb vinegars from chives, shal-                  
lots, garlic, or any windowsill herbs for the holidays. Use                     
approximately 4 oz. of fresh herbs to one quart of wine vinegar.                
Allow the herbs to infuse for at least two weeks.                               
                                                                                
* The aim of tree wrapping is to keep the trunk from heating                    
unevenly on bright, sunny winter days. Bark tends to split as                   
it cools rapidly after the winter sun has warmed the south and                  
west sides. Use commercially available tree wraps or put up                     
canvas or burlap screens to shade young fruit trees. Even a plank               
leaned up against the south side of the trunk will help. Painting               
trunks with white latex paint is a technique used in orchards                   
which achieves the same purpose. Consider this practice if you                  
have young, tender-barked trees like fruit trees.                               
                                                                                
* It is a good practice to sow seeds of alpine plants early in                  
December in an outdoor coldframe. They will not germinate until                 
spring, so the frame should be kept shaded and ventilated.                      
Ideally, the seeds should remain frozen until March. Seeds may                  
also be sown in flats and placed in some convenient, shaded,                    
outdoor location where they will be stay frozen until spring. A                 
good covering of snow seems to help.                                            
                                                                                
* Place Christmas trees away form fireplaces, radiators, TV sets                
and anything else that could dry the needles. Keep your Christmas               
tree well watered from the time it is brought home until it is                  
discarded.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Melted snow contains minerals and can be used instead of tap                  
water for winter watering of house plants.                                      
                                                                                
* Mulch perennial borders for the winter after the ground first                 
freezes a couple of inches deep. Applying mulch too early                       
increases the chance of harboring destructive field mice which                  
are still on the lookout for comfortable winter quarters.                       
                                                                                
* Keep mistletoe out of the reach of children as the berries are                
poisonous.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Clean and sharpen lawn and garden tools and store them in a                   
dry storage area. A light coating of oil on exposed metal                       
surfaces will prevent rusting.                                                  
                                                                                
* Drain the fuel tank and run the lawn mower or tiller engine                   
dry before putting the machine away for the winter.                             
                                                                                
* Check belts and spark plugs and buy replacements, change the                  
oil, sharpen the blades or tines, and clean off dirt and plant                  
debris so equipment will be ready to go when you need it next                   
spring.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Research at Oregon State University has shown that dipping                    
berried shoots of holly (Ilex aquifolium) in 3 or 4% calcium                    
chloride solution for one minute results in firmer, better-keep-                
ing berries.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Ethylene has been shown to hasten cut flower aging, and can                   
cause premature aging of potted flowers and distortion of                       
foliage. Sources of ethylene include: ripening fruits (such as                  
apples), furnaces, stoves, engines with incomplete combustion, as               
well as smoke from cigarettes, cigars, and pipes.                               
                                                                                
* Write to nurseries to order seed and plant catalogs. A stack                  
of these and a blank check under the Christmas tree would be a                  
nice present from Santa Claus.                                                  
                                                                                
* Thoroughly mulch azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, and laurel                
after the ground freezes. They prefer acidic materials such as                  
oak leaves and pine needles but any mixed dry leaves will do if                 
these are not available.                                                        
                                                                                
* Remove snow from evergreen shrubs to prevent suffocation and                  
breaking. Tap the branches gently.                                              
                                                                                
* If an ice storm damages your trees, prune the broken branches.                
In most cases the wood fiber will not grow back, and the branch                 
will die.                                                                       
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
PRESS RELEASES DECEMBER 1986                                                    
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by Virginia Nathan, Extension               
Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Home Horti-                 
culture. The Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed               
for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper features and                     
other educational programs.                                                     
                                                                                
PERIWINKLE                                      46 lines                        
WHY LEAVES DROP ON INDOOR PLANTS                52 lines                        
CHRISTMAS FERN                                  45 lines                        
WREATHS DON'T HAVE TO STOP WITH THE HOLIDAYS    64 lines                        
TWO MAPLES FOR WINTER LANDSCAPE INTEREST        62 lines                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
PERIWINKLE (Vinca minor)                                                        
                                                                                
Periwinkle also called myrtle and Vinca minor is a very popular,                
evergreen, groundcover. Its dark green color fades a little                     
with the cold, but plants still gives color and textural interest               
in the winter landscape. In early spring, lilac-blue blossoms                   
against shiny leaves will draw attention to the species. Culti-                 
vars with colored flowers ranging from white to dark purple also                
can be found.                                                                   
                                                                                
Periwinkle creates a mat of foliage about 6" high. Plants are                   
usually set in spring at 12 - 18" spacing and surrounded by an                  
organic mulch of wood chips or similar material. Closer planting                
will cover the area more rapidly but the cost of additional                     
plants can be prohibitive.                                                      
                                                                                
Ideally, the site to be planted in a ground cover is prepared by                
digging the soil at least 6" deep and incorporating 2 - 3" of                   
organic matter, such as leaf mold or rotted manure. Work in                     
2 lbs. of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 sq. ft. of planting bed.                  
Where the entire area cannot be worked, individual planting holes               
may be dug and backfilled with an amended soil mix after setting                
the plants. Water the plants deeply at planting time and once a                 
week for 4 - 6 weeks. After that rainfall should take care of the               
plants water needs. If weeds are kept in check, in good loose                   
soil periwinkle will fill in quickly covering the ground in two                 
or three years.                                                                 
                                                                                
Periwinkle does not climb on walls or plants making it useful                   
next to buildings or under shrubs. When used to edge a sidewalk,                
it seems to enhances the shape of the walk and the color of most                
paving. Plants can be cut to make a clean looking edge around a                 
bed or border, but in most landscapes they are trimmed infre-                   
quently for a less formal look. Slopes can be planted with                      
different colored cultivars to create interesting contrast. Tall                
bulbs such as daffodils may be interplanted to give additional                  
spring color.                                                                   
                                                                                
Periwinkle can grown in either sun or shade but its appearance                  
is somewhat better in the shade. In Zone 8, plants benefit when                 
they are located where they receive some shade during winter.                   
                                                                                
Gardeners may clip a few sprigs of periwinkle for indoor greenery               
from time to time. For color in window boxes at a time when                     
they are usually barren, plant some vinca in autumn. Its trail-                 
ing, green shoots enliven the space and can be augmented with                   
bows and other accessories for the holidays.                                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
WHY LEAVES DROP ON INDOOR PLANTS                                                
                                                                                
Leaves occasionally turn yellow and drop from indoor green                      
plants. This situation concerns indoor gardeners especially                     
when more than just a few leaves start to turn light green or                   
yellow.                                                                         
                                                                                
There are several potential reasons for the decline of random                   
leaves on plants. Physical injury to a particular leaf may result               
in that leaf turning yellow and dropping from the plant. Alterna-               
tively, something may have occurred while a particular leaf was                 
forming and left it in a weakened condition. Adverse environ-                   
mental conditions, including drying of the soil or exposure to                  
exceptionally bright light or cold temperatures, could induce the               
decline of a single leaf in the center of a plant. One should not               
be overly concerned when a single leaf starts to decline regard-                
less of its location on the plant.                                              
                                                                                
Light plays a most important factor in the maintenance of                       
healthy, green leaves especially those leaves located near the                  
base of the plant. Lower leaves may be shaded and receive only                  
modest quanitities of light. When this occurs, there is a                       
tendency for the oldest leaves to turn yellow and drop from the                 
plant.                                                                          
                                                                                
Light also plays a role in terms of the plant's ability to                      
manufacture food and sustain all of its leaves in good condition.               
The oldest leaves are the first to decline when there is inade-                 
quate nutrition, especially nitrogen, to support the entire                     
plant. The appearance of new leaves often results in the subse-                 
quent drop of one or more older leaves.                                         
                                                                                
Changing the location of plants can bring about a decline of some               
of the older, more mature leaves. The plant must adjust to the                  
new environment; in the process, some leaves may be shed.                       
                                                                                
A decline of the root system also brings about yellowing of                     
mature leaves on a plant. Root injury may occur due to overferti-               
lization. High populations of soil insects feeding on the root                  
system can also trigger the decline of lower leaves.                            
                                                                                
Too much water in the soil and limited oxygen also result in a                  
rapid decline of the root system. This situation may occur due to               
the absence of adequate drainage openings in the container. Water               
may accumulate and in the process destroy some or all of the                    
roots. Heavy soils often become waterlogged, and roots decline                  
due to the absence of oxygen.                                                   
                                                                                
There are no simple answers to the question of why leaves turn                  
yellow. One must examine the history, environment, watering and                 
soil conditions in hopes of identifying the primary source of the               
problem.                                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
CHRISTMAS FERN                                                                  
                                                                                
A hardy fern which has dual use in this season is Christmas                     
fern (Polystichum acrostichoides). All year, this evergreen                     
provides areas of dense green color in the landscape. At Christ-                
mastime, the plants are additionally valued for their fronds                    
which may be cut and used for decoration indoors.                               
                                                                                
Christmas fern has long been used for interior decorations                      
during winter. Early New England settlers named the plant because               
its durable fronds made it a festive holiday green. Fronds may                  
be woven into wreaths or used to accent flowers in indoor                       
arrangements. Another reason for the name comes from the shape of               
the pinnae or fern leaflets. Each section resembles a tiny foot                 
or stuffed Christmas stocking.                                                  
                                                                                
You may find Christmas fern growing wild in shaded woods, but for               
a more reliable source of greenery obtain a few plants for the                  
landscape. Try them in the perennial border, near the base of                   
deciduous trees and shrubs, or other shady places in the land-                  
scape where you want delicate-looking, evergreen foliage. Plants                
have a spreading crown of closely spaced leaves that does not                   
crowd neighboring plants. Leathery fronds grow two to three feet                
tall ranging from medium to dark green. The plants retain the                   
color throughout the year and are among the first of plants to                  
begin new growth in the spring.                                                 
                                                                                
An ideal spot for Christmas fern would be under deciduous trees                 
where they would be shaded in summer and where the soil is                      
slightly acidic (pH 5.5 - 6.6), well drained and humusy. Where                  
the soil is not naturally rich in organic matter, a soil mix                    
consisting of one part garden loam, one part builder's sand, and                
two parts leaf mold can be used. Pack the soil firmly around the                
crown and rhizome (the fleshy stem tissue buried in the ground).                
From the very beginning, keep the soil surrounding the plant                    
moist, but not saturated. Overly wet conditions encourage crown                 
rot.                                                                            
                                                                                
Christmas ferns require little maintenance. Fertilize them twice                
yearly (spring and summer) with fish emulsion fertilizer diluted                
to one-half the recommended strength. Mulch plants with leaf mold               
3" deep at planting time, and every spring and fall thereafter to               
reduce water loss, keep roots cool, and decrease weeds. Once                    
established, they need watering only during dry spells when the                 
soil may dry out.                                                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
WREATHS DON'T HAVE TO STOP WITH THE HOLIDAYS                                    
                                                                                
Wreaths traditionally have been a door decoration of the holiday                
season. But as people experiment with a variety of materials for                
wreathmaking, their uses multiply.                                              
                                                                                
Simple grapevine wreaths may become the classic door decor with                 
the addition of a festive bow. With a few dried herbs, hot                      
peppers and miniature popcorn, it is a year-round decoration for                
the country kitchen. The silver-green of dried mullein leaves and               
the bronze of glycerine-treated beech combine to enhance a                      
grapevine wreath for a country-style living room.                               
                                                                                
Herbal wreaths with a base of artemisia and decorations of                      
lavender, roses, baby's breath and other fragrant herbs are                     
equally attractive in a bedroom or bath. A miniature herbal                     
wreath can be made by coating a wooden or plastic curtain ring                  
with a generous amount of glue and dipping it in potpourri to                   
coat it. A tiny bow completes a perfect wreath for a doll house                 
or as a Christmas tree ornament.                                                
                                                                                
For a more traditional evergreen wreath, white pine, hemlock, red               
cedar or a combination of these and other conifers can be secured               
firmly to a heavy grade wire base using 2l weight wire. The trick               
is not adding too much greenery at a time and maintaining an even               
tension on the wrapping wire. These wreaths can be decorated by                 
wiring pine cones, well-berried holly branches, and ribbon over                 
the stems that form the structure of the wreath.                                
                                                                                
Boxwood, holly, and other small, broad leaved evergreens usually                
are made into wreaths by attaching several three to five foot                   
long stems to a straw base with florist pins. Attach the stems,                 
one layer at a time, completely encircling the wreath each time.                
These wreaths can be decorated with berries, dried flowers or                   
seed heads or fruit.                                                            
                                                                                
In Colonial Williamsburg, the use of fruit in wreaths was                       
inspired by Luce della Robbia, a l5th century sculptur who carved               
garlands of fruit and nuts in his work. Fruit can be tied in                    
place using a pliable l8 weight florist wire that is first                      
inserted through the fruit and then through the straw base.                     
                                                                                
Fruit tends to slip easily if the wire goes around, instead of                  
through, the structure of the wreath. In cold weather that is                   
above freezing, fruit will last for seven to eight days before it               
needs replacing unless birds decide to feast on your decor.                     
                                                                                
All wreaths made from cut greenery will last much longer if kept                
cold, so plan to use them outdoors. Bring them inside for short                 
periods on special occasions.                                                   
                                                                                
Living wreaths are also a tradition and can be created several                  
ways. Most simply, a pot of English ivy can be trained over a                   
wreath-shaped wire frame inserted into a pot. Frequent winding                  
and pruning will be required initially to develop a pleasing                    
shape.                                                                          
                                                                                
A wreath shape made from a cylinder of chicken wire stuffed with                
sphagnum can be used to produce a topiary wreath from a pot of                  
creeping fig or various vines. Cuttings of ivy can be inserted                  
directly into the sphagnum where they will root and grow,                       
producing a pot-free wreath. Such a wreath requires frequent                    
watering and fertilizing and is most suited for hanging on an                   
exterior mason stone wall.                                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
TWO MAPLES FOR WINTER LANDSCAPE INTEREST                                        
                                                                                
A well planned landscape includes visual interest in all seasons.               
Because most herbaceous plant materials disappear completely from               
view during the cold months, landscapes must draw on woody plants               
to attract attention during the winter. Evergreens have been the                
staple for adding color to the barren months, but deciduous trees               
should not be overlooked.                                                       
                                                                                
The bark of several deciduous species can introduce colors not                  
normally associated with the outdoors in winter. The following                  
maples have distinctive color interest even after leaf drop.                    
                                                                                
Coral Bark Maple  - Acer palmatum  'Senkaki'                                    
                                                                                
Coral bark maple is a slow growing, small tree with enough year                 
round interest to be used as a specimen plant. The most outstand-               
ing feature of this cultivar of Japanese maple is brilliant red                 
bark which is especially striking on young twigs. As fall and                   
winter approach, the red color intensifies.                                     
                                                                                
Fine, lacy leaves are bright green in the summer. Fall color                    
varies from red to yellow golden tones. In spring, leaves often                 
have a reddish tinge about their margins which fades as the                     
leaves mature.                                                                  
                                                                                
'Senkaki' reaches 15 to 25 feet at maturity. The crown spreads                  
equally as wide giving it an upright, spreading form. It grows                  
well throughout hardiness zones 5 to 8 which includes all of                    
Virginia. Locate plants in moist, fertile, well-drained soil in                 
full sun or partial shade.                                                      
                                                                                
Coral bark maple will lend an artistic, touch year round to a                   
rural or suburban garden or lawn, but it is not suitable for                    
urban landscapes as it does not tolerate pollution. Although                    
'Senkaki' is being seen more often at nurseries, you may still                  
have to special order it for your yard.                                         
                                                                                
Paperbark Maple - Acer griseum                                                  
                                                                                
Another small maple to consider for winter landscape interest is                
paperbark maple. It displays exfoliating, cinnamon-brown bark                   
that is especially brilliant when caught by the slanting rays of                
the winter sun. This tree often grows with multiple stems so the                
bark becomes a more prominent feature than it would be on a                     
single trunked tree. A background of snow accentuates the tree's                
color and form.                                                                 
                                                                                
Summer color of the leaves of paperbark maple is dark green                     
sometimes with a hint of bluish-green. In fall, the tree may turn               
bronze or red.                                                                  
                                                                                
Paperbark maple matures into an oval shape 20 - 30 feet tall                    
with a spread equal or less than its height. The tree is slow                   
growing, gaining only 6 - 12" per year. It is well suited                       
for all zones of the state and adaptable to a wide variety of                   
soils. An environment with well drained, moist soil and full                    
sun will produce the best growth.                                               
                                                                                
Young trees are best transplanted in spring. Some nurseries carry               
balled and burlapped or container grown stock, but in some areas                
you may need to special order plants.                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
DECEMBER 1986 QUESTION BOX                                                      
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan and Elizabeth                     
Tuchler, Horticulture Technicians, working with Diane Relf,                     
Extension Specialist in Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener                
Question Box has been developed for agent use in preparing radio                
and newspaper features.                                                         
                                                                                
WHY AFRICAN VIOLETS STOP BLOOMING                  23 LINES                     
BIRD OF PARADISE                                   27 LINES                     
CLEANING TOOLS BEFORE STORAGE                      45 LINES                     
SEED STRATIFICATION                                29 LINES                     
NIGHT LIGHTING CAN AFFECT HARDINESS IN BUCKTHORN   24 LINES                     
DON'T GROW MISTLETOE                               33 LINES                     
SHOVEL VS. SPADE                                   17 LINES                     
INDOOR PLANTS FOR WINTER BLOOM                     36 LINES                     
YAUPON HOLLY                                       21 LINES                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
The African violet I bought last month in full bloom stopped                    
blooming. Why?                                                                  
                                                                                
Chances are you have moved your African violet from a relatively                
high-light environment (the garden center) to a relatively                      
low-light environment (your home). Don't despair you don't have                 
to run out and buy artificial lights to promote blooming.                       
Research at the University  of Florida Agricultural Research                    
Center has shown that African violets transferred from high light               
levels to low light levels gradually become acclimated to lower                 
light, and begin flowering again after a few months, assuming                   
that the low light isn't too low.                                               
                                                                                
African violets bloom best when the light intensity is approxi-                 
mately 1000 foot candles. Insufficient light causes poor flower-                
ing and elongation of petioles (leaf stems). To give your plants                
suffient light, from November to February locate plants to                      
receive direct sunlight 12-18 hours per day. Move African                       
violets into indirect, bright light from March through October.                 
Light which is too intense will produce bleached or burned                      
leaves. If the plant is set near a sunny window, a sheer curtain                
will diffuse the sunlight enough so it will not bleach out the                  
color in the leaves.                                                            
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
I'm looking for an unusual plant to decorate my office foyer. Can               
you suggest a striking plant for an important location?                         
                                                                                
One readily available, unusual plant is white bird of paradise,                 
Strelizia nicolai. An orange flowering species, Strelizia                       
reginae, is also available but it may be harder to find. Both                   
bird of paradise species produce large, beautiful blooms on                     
stalks up to 14" long. But plants rarely bloom until they mature                
in a pot 14" or larger. In containers 14' in diameter, bird of                  
paradise grows to its maximum height, 4-5' tall.                                
                                                                                
Bird of paradise plant will produce blooms several times per year               
if given the proper conditions. Blooms can last a month or longer               
if the the plant is in good condition. Plants use a substantial                 
amount of water and should be kept moist, but root problems will                
occur with improper drainage. To avoid this, use a well aerated                 
soil mix and make sure adequate drainage is provided.                           
                                                                                
Bird of paradise grown under fluorescent office lights will                     
benefit from a light fertilization with an indoor plant food                    
twice yearly. If supplemental lighting is used, more fertiliza-                 
tion would be needed. Plants prefers temperatures between 70-80                 
degrees F.; they will show chill damage at 40 degrees F. Bird of                
paradise are relatively pest-free but one should always monitor                 
indoor plants for outbreaks of aphids and red spider mites.                     
Plants look best when faded flowers and old foliage is pruned                   
off.                                                                            
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
How important is it to clean metal tools at the end of the                      
season? What is the best way to clean and sharpen garden tools?                 
                                                                                
All gardening hand tools (hoe, rake, spade, etc.) come in contact               
with soil. Water in the soil causes metal to rust or corrode.                   
Even brick-hard, dried-on dirt contains some water, and rust can                
form where that dirt is stuck on a metal tool. Digging tools work               
much easier when smooth metal is cutting into the soil rather                   
than metal coated with lumps of dry soil or rust. For these                     
reasons, cleaning metal tool parts of soil should be a routine                  
practice after every use, but it is especially important as the                 
tools are put away for the winter.                                              
                                                                                
The minimum cleaning of digging tools is to scrape off adhering                 
soil with a putty  knife or flat stick of wood. In preparation                  
for winter storage, take the extra step of washing off any                      
remaining soil using a stiff bristle or wire brush. Then let                    
tools dry thoroughly in the sun. Fine sandpaper should be used                  
on any rust spots not removed by the brushing. Tools can be                     
covered with a light coating of motor oil to prevent further                    
rusting.                                                                        
                                                                                
Another method of keeping tools clean is to sink a small but deep               
box (with a removable cover to keep rain out) into the ground                   
near your tool shed. Fill the box with sand and add used motor                  
oil. At the end of a gardening day, remove clinging dirt from                   
tools by plunging them into the oil-sand mix several times.                     
This will keep the tools cleaned and oiled, and will help prevent               
rusting.                                                                        
                                                                                
Washing is also appropriate for pruning tools, which usually                    
become coated with sticky sap. Water may be sufficient, but for a               
really complete cleaning, ammonia and water is best. Just be sure               
everything dries well before sharpening.                                        
                                                                                
Sharpen digging and cutting tools now. You will do a better job                 
since you are in less hurry to use them in the garden than in                   
spring. Pruners may only need light sharpening, but  spades and                 
hoes need a heavier treatment. If you have a grinding stone in                  
the workshop, this is an easy task, but using a hand file is                    
not that much more difficult. In all cases the cutting edge                     
should be sharpened to match the original edge bevel, and the                   
filing or grinding motion should start at the cutting edge. You                 
will be pleasantly surprised by how much easier digging, hoeing                 
and pruning is with a sharp tools. (Adapted from an article by                  
Dr. Alan McDaniel, The Virginia Gardener Vol. 2, No. 12.)                       
                                                                                
 --------                                                                       
                                                                                
A friend recently gave me some pecan and walnut tree seeds. How                 
and when should I plant them?                                                   
                                                                                
Nearly all seeds of temperate climate nut trees require stratifi-               
cation. This means exposing the nuts to a temperature less than                 
45 degrees F for at least 6-8 weeks before planting. During this                
time seeds are best kept in a moist medium like sand, peat moss,                
or vermiculite. In actuality, you are trying to recreate the                    
conditions nut seeds would be exposed to in the wild.                           
                                                                                
Different seeds require different amounts of time for stratifica-               
tion. It is important to know the stratification requirements of                
the particular nut that you are growing. For example, pecans need               
l0-20 weeks depending on cultivar.                                              
                                                                                
To stratify nut seeds place seeds in damp peat moss in a plastic                
bag and store them in a refrigerator. You can also put the nuts                 
outdoors between layers of sand or peat moss in a box with a wire               
top and bottom to keep rodents out. Put the box in a well drained               
location and protect it from extreme temperature fluctuations by                
covering it with straw or leaves. Seeds can be damaged from                     
severe cold or if the medium is either too wet or too dry.                      
                                                                                
If rodents are not a problem in your area, nuts may be planted                  
directly in the soil in fall. The chilling requirement will be                  
met naturally in most areas of Virginia with the possible                       
exception of the coastal region. One of the best resources on nut               
tree culture is the Northern Nut Growers Association, Broken                    
Arrow Road, Hamden, CN 06518. If you wish to persue this topic                  
further, you may want to contact them.                                          
                                                                                
 --------                                                                       
                                                                                
I planted a tallhedge buckthorn for its cold hardiness but it                   
showed some cold damage after last winter. What am I doing wrong?               
                                                                                
Tallhedge buckthorn (Rhamnus frangula 'Columnaris') is a hardy,                 
deciduous hedge plant with shiny foliage and attractive berries.                
Its hardiness (to -50 degrees F) may be reduced by several                      
factors which make it susceptible to dieback and fungal infec-                  
tions. One of the most common factors in reducing hardiness in                  
landscape plantings is night lighting.                                          
                                                                                
Tallhedge buckthorn is photosensitive, which means that night                   
lighting keeps it growing in the fall instead of allowing it to                 
harden off. Research has shown that the greatest winter injury is               
found around homes, parking lots and other areas that are lit at                
night. When continuous light conditions are combined with                       
fertilizing and watering late in the season, growth may be                      
stimulated and low-temperature injury is likely to occur on these               
immature branches.                                                              
                                                                                
The Agricultural Research Service, Beltsville, MD 20705 has been                
studying the problem of photosensitivity in plants. Other plants                
such as catalpa and birch are also extremely photosensitive and                 
should never be planted where there is outdoor lighting. Many                   
others are affected to varying degrees depending on the type and                
duration of lighting.                                                           
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
I would like to grow mistletoe on our land so that we can use it                
for holiday decorations. How does it grow?                                      
                                                                                
Although mistletoe is a popular holiday decoration, growing                     
mistletoe is not recommended because it is a parasitic plant                    
which harms trees of value. There are two kinds of mistletoe:                   
dwarf mistletoe and true or leafy mistletoe, an evergreen which                 
is the one used as a Christmas decoration. Both mistletoe are                   
parasites that feed primarily on hardwood forest trees, but also                
attacks fruit trees, such as apples, cherries, and some conifers,               
like juniper and cypress.                                                       
                                                                                
Leafy mistletoe is spread by birds who eat its seed-containing                  
berries. Since the seeds are covered with a sticky substance,                   
they adhere to tree branches through wind and rain. When the seed               
germinates, a primary root or radicle grows along a branch until                
it finds a bud or leaf base There it penetrates the vascular                    
system of the plant and branches out into a network of root-like                
fibers that draw minerals from the host plant. After the mistle-                
toe is rooted, it produces buds that develop over the next few                  
years. Shoots emerge from the buds at the point of entry and in                 
concentric circles out from that point.                                         
                                                                                
Mistletoe has several negative effects on host plants. It causes                
a hormonal imbalance in tree branches which can cause normally                  
dormant lateral buds to grow profusely forming tangle of twigs                  
called a witches-broom. Branches can also swell up around the                   
point of infection. The affected area is severely weakened by the               
infection and is very susceptible to diseases, insects and                      
breakage.                                                                       
                                                                                
As you can see, to plant mistletoe would be destructive to your                 
property. Once established it is difficult to eradicate. Infected               
branches or even entire trees must be removed.                                  
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
What is the difference between a shovel, a garden shovel, and a                 
spade? Does handle style affect the efficiency of these tools or                
are they just decorative?                                                       
                                                                                
Shovels are earth movers with dish-shaped blades mounted to the                 
handle at an angle. For general purpose digging, lifting and                    
moving, a long handled shovel is ideal. A garden shovel usually                 
has a pointed blade and is lighter and smaller than most other                  
shovels. It is well suited for transplanting and turning garden                 
soil. A spade has a flat blade and is designed for cutting                      
rather than lifting or moving soil. Spades are excellent for                    
shaping straight-sided trenches and for edging beds.                            
                                                                                
Both shovels and spades come with long or short handles in                      
standard or D-shaped styles. Choice of handle style will depend                 
on personal preference; long handles offer greater leverage and                 
are less tiring to use in many cases. Short handles are often                   
thicker and stronger.                                                           
                                                                                
 --------                                                                       
                                                                                
Which of the plants sold in flower shops now can I rely on for                  
blooms throughout winter? Besides pointsettias, I have seen                     
chrysanthemums, cyclamens and a few others for sale.                            
                                                                                
There are many flowering plants available from florists through-                
out the winter including mums, poinsettias, and cyclamen.                       
Although, with skill and luck, any of these can be induced to                   
rebloom after the initial show, many gardeners find that it                     
simply isn't worth the effort and disgard the plant when it                     
becomes unattractive.                                                           
                                                                                
One of the most reliable sources of winter bloom is a large                     
indoor plant called Spathyphyllum. Its white leaf-like flower is                
quite striking against deep green foliage. If you are considering               
this plant be aware that it reaches 2-3 feet tall and can easily                
outgrow most home settings.                                                     
                                                                                
Streptocarpus or cape primrose is a smaller and showier, plant                  
with blossoms in shades of purple, violet and rose, as well as                  
white. A relative of African violets, it is easy to care for but                
equally prone to mealybugs. Flame violet or Episcia is a vining                 
relative of African violet with deep orange-red blossoms.                       
Although some people report them difficult to grow, I've had                    
little trouble as long as I water thoroughly when the soil begins               
to dry and give them plenty of light.                                           
                                                                                
There are several bromeliads which create a showy display of                    
color in winter on coarse, odd-looking plants. These relatives of               
pineapple vaguely resemble the severed top of pineapple fruit.                  
Flame Sword and Air Alpine are the most available bromeliads.                   
Queen's Tears is an interesting though less common cultivar with                
spikes of pink, blue, and yellow flowers. Most bromeliads are of                
easy culture but some gradually die after flowering. Many of the                
short-lived varieties will put up side shoots that can be                       
repotted for future plants and flowers.                                         
                                                                                
 --------                                                                       
                                                                                
I have liked Japanese holly as a hedge plant but I have read it                 
will not do well on the Virginia coast. Is there an evergreen                   
shrub which is similar to Japanese holly which will do well at my               
new seaside home?                                                               
                                                                                
Yaupon (Ilex vomitoria) is a relative of Japanese holly suitable                
for Virginia's coastal areas. This evergreen shrub is native to                 
the east coast of the United States and has become popular in                   
landscapes along the coast of Virginia.                                         
                                                                                
Yaupon grows well near the seashore; it is tolerant of salt                     
spray, wind and hot weather. Since the plant is hardy in Zones                  
7-10, it is adaptable to all areas of Virginia excluding the                    
mountains. Yaupon usually develops as an upright shrub in Zone 7                
(the piedmont). In Zones 8-10 (the coast and southward), it                     
matures as a small tree.                                                        
                                                                                
The year round interest of yaupon makes it a valuable addition to               
the landscape. During the winter, lustrous, dark, green leaves                  
and vivid scarlet fruits are an asset indoors and out. Branches                 
can be trimmed for wreath making and other holiday decorations.                 
In spring, the purplish tinge of the new leaves and greenish--                  
white flowers soften the plant's appearance.                                    
                                                                                
One major difference between Japanese holly and yaupon is the                   
fruit color. In contrast to the black fruits of Japanese holly,                 
yaupon sports attractive, red fruits in large clusters. The                     
fruits develop in late summer and persist on the shrub until the                
following spring.                                                               
                                                                                
Yaupon holly is also called cassena or cassine. It transplants                  
easily and is extremely tolerant of many soil conditions. In                    
areas of high fertility, it grows fast adding about 2' of new                   
growth per year. Yaupon is considered one of the best small                     
leaved evergreen hollies for southern gardens. It is best used                  
as a specimen plant, or as a informal hedge or screen.                          
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
DECEMBER 1987                                                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
Herbaceous Plants                                                               
                                                                                
* Mulch perennial borders for the winter after the ground first                 
freezes a couple of inches deep. Applying mulch too early                       
increases the chance of harboring destructive field mice which                  
are still on the lookout for comfortable winter quarters.                       
                                                                                
* It is a good practice to sow seeds of alpine plants early in                  
December in an outdoor coldframe. They will not germinate until                 
spring, so the frame should be kept shaded and ventilated.                      
Ideally, the seeds should remain frozen until March. Seeds may                  
also be sown in flats and placed in some convenient, shaded,                    
outdoor location where they will be stay frozen until spring. A                 
good covering of snow seems to help.                                            
                                                                                
* Winter protection for peonies is only necessary the first                     
winter to help prevent frost heaving. Mound soil over the new                   
planting for several inches, or after the ground freezes hard,                  
mulch with evergreen boughs or straw. Don't use a material that                 
will mat down such as leaves. In extremely cold climates, 10-20                 
degrees below zero, protection is also necessary to protect tree                
peonies.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Protect roses by mounding dirt around their bases, then cover                 
with 4-6" of mulch. You can order roses now for Spring planting.                
                                                                                
* Use branches from discarded Christmas trees to mulch beds of                  
bulbs and perennials.  Come spring, leave fallen needles from the               
branches in place as a permanent mulch.                                         
                                                                                
* Check dahlia tubers and gladiolus corms in storage. If they are               
sprouting, place them in a cooler spot. If they show signs of                   
shriveling, rewrap them in ventilated plastic bags. Moldy or                    
damaged roots must be removed and destroyed. Molding indicates                  
over moist conditions. Move healthy bulbs to a location with                    
better ventilation and set in dry peat moss.                                    
                                                                                
* Mums and pansies are easily heaved out of the ground during                   
freezes and thaws.  This causes root damage. Place Christmas tree               
branches over flower beds to prevent this from happening.                       
                                                                                
Herbs                                                                           
                                                                                
* Chicory is an easy winter salad plant to force. Plant roots in                
moist sand or soil in a box and place the box in a warm, dark                   
place such as your cellar. Keep the soil moderately moist. The                  
shoots will be ready for cutting in 3-5 weeks. Rhubarb roots also               
respond to this treatment.                                                      
                                                                                
* Proper storage of herbs is very important. Most of us store                   
them within easy reach of our cooking area which is not always                  
the best spot. Herbs should be stored in a cool, dry place away                 
from heat and light. Herbs have a shelf life of 6 months to 1                   
year; it helps to write the purchase date on the label. Look over               
your collection and throw out any whose aroma, flavor, or color                 
have faded.                                                                     
                                                                                
* You still have time to make herb vinegars from chives, shal-                  
lots, garlic, or any windowsill herbs for the holidays. Use                     
approximately 4 oz. of fresh herbs to one quart of wine vinegar.                
Allow the herbs to infuse for at least two weeks.                               
                                                                                
Woody Ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* If an ice storm damages your trees, prune the broken branches.                
In most cases broken branches will not recover, and pruning                     
reduces the chance of disease.                                                  
                                                                                
* Remove snow from evergreen shrubs by tapping the branches                     
gently.  This prevents suffocation and damage from heavy snow.                  
                                                                                
* The more tender plants in rock gardens benefit from a light                   
covering of evergreen boughs or oak branches retaining their                    
leaves. The purpose of this covering is to lessen dessication by                
wind.  Take care not to smother the plants. You should be able to               
see the plants through the branches.                                            
                                                                                
* Thoroughly mulch azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, and laurel                
after the ground freezes. They prefer acidic materials such as                  
oak leaves and pine needles but any mixed dry leaves will do if                 
these are not available.                                                        
                                                                                
* Erect snow deflectors over shrubs under the dripline of houses                
and other buildings to protect them against avalanches off the                  
roof.                                                                           
                                                                                
* For well-developed fruit on your holly trees, there must be a                 
male tree to pollinate the female trees.                                        
                                                                                
* Place Christmas trees away from fireplaces, radiators, TV sets                
and anything else that could dry the needles. Keep your Christmas               
tree well watered from the time it is brought home until it is                  
discarded.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Don't use hemlocks as Christmas trees because they drop their                 
needles almost immediately after they are brought inside. Instead               
use balsam or douglas fir, sheared pine, or spruce.                             
                                                                                
* When cutting evergreens for Christmas decorations, use care to                
prevent harming plants. Distribute pruning over the entire                      
plant. Limit cutting to mild shaping and thinning. Do not trim                  
boxwoods when the temperature is below 40 degrees F.                            
                                                                                
* Prepare gifts from your garden. Wreaths or swags from pruning                 
evergreens will be welcome holiday decorations anywhere.  While                 
you're at it, take a few minutes to decorate your home with                     
materials from the yard. Evergreen trees such as pines, junipers,               
cedar and arborvitae tolerate selective pruning and their                       
fragrance adds a holiday touch. Among the broadleaf evergreens,                 
use holly, laurel, and boxwood to supply sprigs of greenery.                    
                                                                                
Landscape                                                                       
                                                                                
* Plan a visit to a public garden or nursery where you can                      
observe trees and shrubs in their winter phase. Some have quite                 
lovely shapes and colors that could be an asset to your land-                   
scape.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Assess the energy efficiency of your landscape. Do you have                   
evergreen trees or shrubs blocking a window where the sun's                     
warmth would be welcome? Consider replacing them with a deciduous               
plant that would let sun in during winter but cast cooling shade                
in summer.                                                                      
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
* Do filling and grading around the yard. The loose soil will                   
settle during the cold months.                                                  
                                                                                
* Minimize traffic on a frozen lawn to reduce winter damage.                    
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* Don't forget to use some of those hardy vegetables still out in               
your garden--such as carrots, turnip greens, or kale.                           
                                                                                
* Use a combination of red and green sweet peppers frozen from                  
last summer's garden to give holiday food a seasonal flair.                     
                                                                                
* Keep several jars of sprouts going to keep your family in fresh               
greens all winter long.                                                         
                                                                                
Fruits/ Nuts                                                                    
                                                                                
* Fruit trees can be pruned at any time during the winter                       
provided the temperature is above 45 degrees F.                                 
                                                                                
* Fresh nuts of hickory, butternut, and black walnut germinate                  
quite readily if planted outdoors approximately 1" deep. The                    
alternating freezing and thawing splits their hard shells and                   
allows the root to emerge. A small wire cage placed over the nut                
will mark planting spots and keep the squirrels from excavating                 
the seeds.                                                                      
                                                                                
* To prevent rabbit damage, roll or bend a strip of 1/4" galvan-                
ized screen (approximately 14" x 18") around the trunk of the                   
tree so that the long side is up and down the trunk and the edges               
overlap. To keep the strip from unrolling, insert a small wire                  
near the center of the roll and twist the ends closed. Push the                 
lower edges well into the ground. This metal guard will last                    
indefinitely and can be left in place all year.                                 
                                                                                
* Mice chew off the bark of fruit trees at ground level or below                
and often completely girdle a tree causing it to die. To reduce                 
this damage, keep mulch pulled away from the base of the tree and               
examine it frequently for the presence of mice.                                 
                                                                                
* The aim of tree wrapping is to keep the trunk from heating                    
unevenly on bright, sunny winter days. Bark tends to split as it                
cools rapidly after the winter sun has warmed the south and west                
sides. Use commercially available tree wraps or put up canvas or                
burlap screens to shade young fruit trees. Even a plank leaned up               
against the south side of the trunk will help. Painting trunks                  
with white latex paint is a technique used in orchards which                    
achieves the same purpose by reflecting the sun. Consider this                  
practice if you have young, tender-barked fruit trees.                          
                                                                                
Indoor Plants                                                                   
                                                                                
* Ethylene has been shown to hasten cut flower aging, and can                   
cause premature aging of potted flowers and distortion of                       
foliage. Sources of ethylene include: ripening fruits (such as                  
apples), furnaces, stoves, engines with incomplete combustion,                  
and smoke from cigarettes, cigars, and pipes.                                   
                                                                                
* Turn your houseplants frequently to insure uniform light                      
distribution and straighter growth. Avoid putting them on the                   
television, near heater vents or other sources of heat. Don't                   
overwater; growth has slowed significantly for the winter so less               
water and fertilizer is required.                                               
                                                                                
* Ask Santa for a special plant or garden tool for yourself.                    
Begin a collection of your favorite perennials and request a new                
plant every year. If you garden indoors, start a collection of                  
succulents which can be added to yearly.                                        
                                                                                
* When buds of Christmas cactus show signs of opening, start a                  
regular watering program and keep the plant cool for the best                   
show.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Melted snow contains minerals and can be used instead of tap                  
water for winter watering of house plants.                                      
                                                                                
* Move gift plants with caution. Plants shocked by the cold may                 
drop their leaves in a few days and no longer be such a lovely                  
gift. Wrap each plant in eight to ten layers of newspaper stapled               
shut over the foliage. If it is freezing outside, warm up the car               
before loading the plants. Cold temperatures for `only a minute'                
can be detrimental.                                                             
                                                                                
* Dust foliage plants or give them an occasional shower. They'll                
get more light and grow better without a coating of dust.                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
* Pots of narcissus started indoors now will bring the fragrance                
of spring before their outside cousins bloom.                                   
                                                                                
Tools and Equipment                                                             
                                                                                
Check belts and spark plugs and buy replacements, change the oil,               
sharpen the blades or tines, and clean off dirt and plant debris                
so equipment will be ready to go when you need it next spring.                  
                                                                                
* Drain the fuel tank and run the lawn mower or tiller engine dry               
before putting the machine away for the winter.                                 
                                                                                
* Clean and sharpen lawn and garden tools and store them in a dry               
storage area. A light coating of oil on exposed metal surfaces                  
will prevent rusting.                                                           
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* For hours of windowside enjoyment, trim a tree for the birds.                 
Tie on dried fruit, suet, and peanut butter covered pine cones                  
rolled in bird seed.                                                            
                                                                                
* Fertilizers containing nitrate of soda or sulfate of ammonia                  
should not be used on concrete drives and walks to melt ice as                  
they cause the breakdown of concrete surfaces. However,                         
fertilizers such as urea and ammonium nitrate can be used on                    
walks rather than rock salt, which may harm surrounding plants'                 
roots.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Although most people postpone this chore to late winter, grape                
vines can be pruned between Thanksgiving and the end of December.               
Use the long vines to make wreaths, baskets, and other country                  
decorations.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Sunflower seeds will attract desirable birds such as                          
chickadees, tufted titmouses, finches, cardinals and grosbeaks,                 
to your feeder. Goldfinches and woodpeckers are attracted to                    
suet.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Use hair spray to keep seed heads and dried flowers intact.                   
                                                                                
* Peat moss absorbs moisture very slowly. When it is used in                    
potting soil mixes, break clods apart and moisten the material                  
slightly with warm water before incorporating it into the                       
mixture. Ideally, prepare potting soil the day before you use it                
so the moisture equalizes throughout the mixture.                               
                                                                                
* For easy "country candle sticks" cut 5 to 7 small logs (approx-               
imately 2-3 inches in diameter) into lengths from 3 to 6 inches.                
Drill holes in the log tops the diameter of the candles you plan                
to use. A collection of these surrounded with pine cones and nuts               
make an attractive centerpiece for the holidays.                                
                                                                                
* Early winter is a good time to collect more stones for expand-                
ing the rock garden in spring. The rocks are more visible and the               
solid ground makes a good base on which to haul stone.                          
                                                                                
* Write to nurseries to order seed and plant catalogs. A stack of               
these and a blank check under the Christmas tree would be a nice                
present from Santa Claus.                                                       
                                                                                
* Start reviewing and expanding your garden notes to help with                  
next year's plans.                                                              
                                                                                
* Research at Oregon State University has shown that dipping                    
berried shoots of holly (Ilex Aquifolium) in a 3 or 4% calcium                  
chloride solution for one minute results in firmer, better-keep-                
ing berries.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Be unconventional -- offer perennial divisons, seedlings, and                 
shrub volunteers as gifts to your gardening friends. If you have                
seed from a treasured variety that you know comes back the same                 
year after year, share some with an equally treasured friend.                   
Write I.O.U.'s for perennials that you will be dividing in spring               
so the recipient can plan ahead for the best location.                          
                                                                                
* Keep mistletoe with its poisonous berries out of the reach of                 
children.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Check any fruits, vegetables, corms, and tubers that you have                 
in storage. Sort out any that show signs of disease and dispose                 
of them.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Both live and cut Christmas trees need water while they are                   
inside. Keep live trees indoors for the least possible time to                  
keep them healthy.                                                              
                                                                                
* When decorating for the holidays, be sure you do not place                    
fresh needled evergreens directly on finished furniture or a                    
mantlepiece; use felt or a tablecloth under them. Sap from                      
branches may take the finish off wooden surfaces.                               
                                                                                
* To make your long winter evenings by the fire more enjoyable                  
burn aromatic woods such as cherry, apples, and pine.                           
                                                                                
* Where snow drifts, plan to plant a windbreak next spring. Ex-                 
periment with a movable barrier to decide the best angle and                    
position for the planting.                                                      
                                                                                
* To avoid drying out your cut Christmas tree, transport the tree               
covered with a cloth in the trunk of the car. At home, cut an                   
inch or two off the trunk and plunge the butt into a pail of warm               
water. Keep in a cool, shaded, protected place until moved into                 
the house. Mount in a tree stand or place tree in a bucket with                 
rocks and sand and fill with water after tree is indoors.   Water               
the tree daily.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Ventilate cold frames on sunny days. Do not allow plants to dry               
out. Remove any diseased plants as soon as they are noticed. On                 
very cold nights, cover cold frames in which semi-hardy plants                  
are being overwintered, using old carpet scraps, burlap bags                    
stuffed with leaves, or bales of hay.                                           
                                                                                
* Give a friend a subscription to The Virginia Gardener. It's an                
inexpensive way to say "Good Gardening" all year long. A one year               
subscription is only $5.00. Send orders to The Virginia Gardener,               
Va Tech Extension Distribution Center, 112 Landsdowne Street,                   
Blacksburg, VA 24060. Make check payable to Treasurer, Va Tech.                 
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
Press Releases December 1987                                                    
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Extension                   
Technician, Ellen M. Silva, Extension Technician, and Diane Relf,               
Extension Specialist in Home Horticulture, working with Eric Day,               
Manager of the Insect ID Lab. The Virginia Gardener Press                       
Releases have been developed for agent use in preparing radio and               
newspaper features and other educational programs.                              
                                                                                
Holly                                                  68 lines                 
Soiless Amendments                                     89 lines                 
Miniature African Violets                              58 lines                 
Terrariums                                             71 lines                 
Container Drainage								71 lines                                              
 ----------------------------------------------------------------               
Holly                                                                           
                                                                                
Holly, a traditional plant in Christmas decorating, has been used               
for celebrations for many centuries. The ancient Romans carried                 
holly in their processions, and decked images of their deities                  
with its glistening leaves. In the more recent past it was                      
commonly used in England as decoration during the Christmas                     
season, a custom brought to the U.S. by early settlers.                         
                                                                                
There are more than 300 species of holly. It is found in almost                 
all countries of the world in the temperate and sub-tropical                    
regions. The native American holly was probably one of the first                
plants sighted by the Pilgrams who settled at Plymouth in 1620.                 
                                                                                
The tree-type hollies, which grow to a height of about 40 feet,                 
are desirable landscape plants from which branches may be cut for               
decorative use. The English holly, Ilex Aquifolium, is the                      
preferred species with glossy leaves and brilliant berries.                     
Unfortunately it is not fully hardy in the colder, higher                       
elevations of Virginia, but grows very well in the warmer                       
sections of the state. The American holly, Ilex opaca, is similar               
to the English holly, but has slightly less attractive foliage                  
and berries. It is however, fully hardy in all parts of Virginia.               
                                                                                
All hollies have male and female flowers on different plants. The               
berries are produced only on the female plants. In most cases it                
is good to have a male plant in the garden to provide for                       
pollination if an abundant crop of berries is to be secured. If                 
male plants in the community are sufficently close, pollen                      
carried by wind or insects will sometimes result in berries.                    
                                                                                
Holly should not be planted in an exposed, windy location. The                  
plants vary in hardiness. The flower buds, which develop late in                
the summer, may be killed by cold in the winter and thus                        
eliminate the possibility of a berry crop the next summer                       
summer.                                                                         
                                                                                
The Burford holly, Ilex cornuta 'Burfordii,' is a shrub type                    
holly with attractive, shiny, dark green leaves and large, red                  
berries. It has the advantage of producing fruit without                        
pollination. This selection of Chinese holly grows to a height of               
six to eight feet. The plant is quite hardy, but the leaves may                 
be damaged during the winter when planted in exposed locations in               
the colder sections of Virginia.                                                
                                                                                
Several species of Japanese holly, Ilex crenata, are very useful                
as landscape plants. They are fully hardy in Virginia. All                      
selections of this species have black berries and thus are less                 
useful for indoor decorations than the red berried types. All                   
types of Japanese holly will tolerate heavy pruning to maintain a               
desired size and form of growth.                                                
                                                                                
The roundleaf Japanese holly, Ilex crenata `Rotundifolia', will                 
attain a height of six to eight feet. It has attractive, glossy                 
leaves and will grow well in partial shade.                                     
                                                                                
The boxwood or boxleaf Japanese holly, Ilex crenata `Convexa',                  
grows to a height of about four feet. It has small, cupped leaves               
which give the plant an attractive, fine texture and make it                    
especially attractive for clipped hedges                                        
                                                                                
The Heller Japanese holly, Ilex crenata 'Helleri,' is a low                     
growing selection of the Boxleaf holly. It is fine as a                         
relatively dwarf species to locate in front of taller shrubs in                 
the foundation planting.                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
Soiless Amendments                                                             
                                                                                
Commercially available potting soils are sterile (free of disease               
organisms, insects, weeds, nematodes, etc.) and convenient to                   
use. They may or may not actually contain any soil. In addition,                
while they are sterile, they may be extremely high or extremely                 
low in soluble salts, pesticide residues, etc. It is almost                     
impossible to know what you are actually getting in a bagged                    
potting soil.                                                                   
                                                                                
If you wish you can mix your own potting soil from various                      
organic and inorganic amendments. If garden soil is to be added                 
it should be sterilized to destroy undesirable organisms. This                  
can be accomplished by moistening the soil and spreading it in a                
shallow layer in an oven-proof pan. Cover the pan with foil,                    
insert a meat thermometer and place in a low temperature oven of                
approximately 250 degrees F. Heat the soil to a temperature of                  
180 degrees F for 30 minutes.  Most people find the odor of                     
baking soil to be somewhat unpleasant, so do your soil baking on                
a day you can keep your windows open.                                           
                                                                                
A "standard" potting soil for plants can be formulated from one                 
part loam soil, one part peat moss, sphagnum moss, or leaf mold,                
and one part coarse sand, perlite, weblite, or coarse bark.                     
                                                                                
Peat moss is partially decomposed vegetation which has been used                
as a potting medium amendant for years. Some plants can be grown                
successfully in pure peat. However, most peats are quite acid and               
must have lime added to raise the pH to a level more suitable for               
plant growth.                                                                   
                                                                                
Sphagnum moss is dehydrated plant tissue which is used as a                     
medium amendment in much the same way as peat moss. It decomposes               
more rapidly than peat. It is available in both milled and                      
unmilled forms; milled sphagnum is generally easier to handle.                  
Seeds can be germinated in sphagnum but should be transplatned                  
early since sphagnum lacks sufficient quantities of nutrients to                
sustain the growth of seedlings for very long. Milled sphagnum                  
moss is an excellant seed germinating medium for small or slow to               
germinate seeds because of its fungistatic qualities. Sphagnum                  
moss also has a very low or acid pH.                                            
                                                                                
Bark is rapidly gaining popularity as a medium amendment. Both                  
pine and hardwood barks are available. Particle size and                        
compostion vary considerably as does water retention, pH, and                   
porosity. Aged, partially decomposed bark is best for most                      
purposes.                                                                       
                                                                                
Leaf mold and other sources of composted organic matter are                     
excellent medium amendments which increase the porosity of the                  
soil. Fresh straw, shavings, and sawdust can be used, but may                   
result in nutrient deficiencies, particularly of nitrogen.                      
Sand is a relatively cheap, but good medium amendment. Particle                 
size varies, and this will affect porosity and water retention;                 
medium to coarse sharp sand is best for most purpose. Sand is                   
very heavy which can be a disadvantage. Clean sand is relatively                
free of weed seeds, insects, nematodes, and disease organisms.                  
                                                                                
Perlite is a sterile medium which is produced by heating volcanic               
rock. It is very lightweight, and the large particle size helps                 
to increase the porosity and aeration of various potting                        
mixtures. Perlite does not hold appreciable quantities of water.                
It is not easily broken down and can be reused. In light                        
mixtures, perlite may have a tendency to float.                                 
                                                                                
Vermiculite is a sterile medium manufactured by heating a                       
micaceous mineral. It is lightweight and helps increase the                     
porosity of heavy soils. Unlike perlite, vermiculite does hold                  
appreciable amounts of water. Its particular characteristics are                
easily destroyed by too much handling, especially when wet. No. 2               
is the regular horticultural grade.                                             
                                                                                
Weblite is a sterile expanded shale aggregate manufactured by                   
combining shale with low grade coal and heating it to high                      
temperatures.  The particles are fairly coarse, similar to small                
gravel.  Weblite increases the porosity of the medium when added                
as an amendment.                                                                
                                                                                
Turface is a calcined clay soil amendment used to aerate, retain                
moisture, and allow drainage in a loam soil mix. It is available                
in both fine and coarse particle sizes.                                         
                                                                                
Media which contain soil usually will contain sufficient                        
quantities of the micro-nutrients such that the plants grown in                 
them will not suffer any micronutrient deficiencies. This may not               
be the case if the potting medium is formulated entirely of                     
artificial organic and inorganic amendments so the indoor                       
gardener should keep this in mind.                                              
Miniature African Violets                                                      
                                                                                
Have you tried miniature African violets? If not, you have a new                
and exciting experience ahead. They are exact replicas of the                   
standard size plants, but do not exceed six inches in diameter,                 
and never outgrow a two inch pot.                                               
                                                                                
The true miniature African violet is an example of the success of               
plant breeders in providing new and interesting species for home                
gardeners. These unique violets are usually more symmetrical than               
the large varieties, with an even, round pattern of leaves, and                 
many blooms.                                                                    
                                                                                
The first miniatures were called violettes or tea cup plants, and               
usually were placed in a novelty class when exhibited at flower                 
shows. They are now becoming more widely grown and deserve                      
special recognition as a house plant, or when displayed at a                    
show.                                                                           
                                                                                
Now there are also semi-miniatures. The leaves and flowers are                  
somewhat larger than the miniatures. Mature plants may become                   
eight inches in diameter. They grow best in a three inch pot.                   
                                                                                
The culture of miniature African violets is similar to that for                 
the standard sizes. Because of the small pots in which they grow,               
they need water more frequently than other house plants. Be sure                
to inspect them daily and add water as needed.                                  
                                                                                
Use a high-humus soil mixture. With the small quantity of soil in               
a two or three inch pot you may need to replant your miniature                  
violets somewhat more frequently than your other house plants.                  
Give them any standard African violet fertilizer dissolved in                   
water as instructed on the package. Always apply water at room                  
temperature.                                                                    
                                                                                
The miniature African violets seem to grow better with more light               
than the standard varieties. They respond better to daylight than               
to fluorescent tubes. They grow very well on a windowsill, but                  
should not be exposed to a bright hot sun.                                      
                                                                                
Propagate the miniature violets by leaf cuttings. Roots will                    
develop in damp vermiculite in about two weeks, and new leaves                  
will appear in about six weeks. When the young plants are one or                
two inches tall they may be set in one inch thumb pots, or                      
directly into the two inch permanent container. Be sure to                      
provide good drainage in the bottom of the pot.                                 
                                                                                
Miniature African violets are available in a wide variety of                    
flower colors including light and dark tones of violet, blue, or                
pink, as well as white and bicolor. Various leaf forms are also                 
available including plain, scalloped, ruffled, and variegated.                  
                                                                                
Miniature African violets are very useful as house plants in the                
average home because they require so little space. They are also                
ideal as favors at a party, or as place card holders at dinner.                 
Your guests will be grateful for such an interesting and useful                 
favor. You may also give miniature violets as prizes for superior               
displays at your flower show or garden club meeting. Terrariums                
                                                                                
A terrarium is a miniature enclosed garden which is a practical                 
and inexpensive way to bring some of the outdoors into the home                 
for enjoyment during the winter. An easy to assemble terrarium                  
will grow well for weeks with very little attention. If carefully               
planted with suitable materials, it will remain attractive for                  
many months.                                                                    
                                                                                
Terrariums might be thought of as miniature, self operating                     
greenhouses. The basic structural feature is a large glass                      
container which can be closed to retain a humid environment. The                
moisture condenses on the glass and is returned to the soil and                 
plants to be used again.                                                        
                                                                                
Many types of glass containers may be used. The most attractive                 
are large brandy glasses, goldfish bowls, or small or medium                    
sized rectangular aquariums. A piece of glass is needed as a                    
cover to retain a humid atmosphere. Half gallon or gallon jars                  
with metal or plastic covers may also be used.                                  
                                                                                
Terrariums may be woodland or tropical. A small area of woodland                
near your residence will provide enough plants for many                         
terrariums. Collect only a minimum of material. You will need                   
only a few healthy small specimens.                                             
                                                                                
Mosses, ferns, and seedling evergreens not over four or five                    
inches tall, are the principal plant materials you need for a                   
woodland terrarium. Partridge berry plants add interest if they                 
are available in your area. Small dracaenas and table palms may                 
be secured from your garden center for a tropical terrarium.                    
                                                                                
Most flowering plants are not suited to the conditions in a                     
terrarium. You may secure blooms from miniature African violets                 
or small wax begonias if you want to try these items.                           
                                                                                
To complete a woodland scene you can use some small weathered                   
rocks, especially some with lichens attached. Bark or twigs with                
fungus, tiny hemlock cones, and acorns may be used to create a                  
naturalistic effect.                                                            
                                                                                
Start assembling your terrarium by washing your container with                  
strong detergent until it is sparkling clean. Place a layer of                  
small stones in the bottom for drainage and add a layer of                      
activated charcoal which can be purchased from an aquarium supply               
store. The charcoal will absorb gases and prevent souring of the                
soil. Now add a layer of soil mixture composed of equal parts of                
clean sand and leafmold or shredded peat moss.                                  
                                                                                
Do not use too many plants in your terrarium. Even though the                   
plants are small and will grow slowly, they will need plenty of                 
room. A few interesting specimens will be more attractive than a                
crowded collection. No plant leaves should touch the glass.                     
                                                                                
Insert your small evergreen trees first. Unless the container is                
quite large, only one or two will be needed. Then plant your                    
dwarf ferns, and fill the remaining space with moss. Appropriate                
sized stones may be allowed to protrude and create a typical                    
woodland effect. And last, you may insert some small pieces of                  
bark, tiny hemlock cones, or acorns. Do not clutter your                        
terrarium with too much material.                                               
                                                                                
Water your plants lightly with a bulb sprayer and put on the                    
glass cover. Locate your terrarium in a cool room out of                        
sunlight. It will need to be watered about every three or four                  
weeks. Water from the humid atmosphere inside will collect on the               
glass in the form of small beads. If the entire surface is                      
covered with mist, remove the cover for a few hours to allow the                
plants to dry off.                                                              
                                                                                
Container Drainage                                                             
                                                                                
The practice of placing gravel or some other material in the                    
bottom of the container is commonly reccommended to improve                     
drainage. Unfortunately, it can do just the opposite; more                      
container-grown plants are killed by overwatering and poor                      
drainage than by any other cultural practice, or any disease or                 
insect.                                                                         
                                                                                
When gravel or other coarse materials are put in the bottom of a                
container, they, in effect, raise the level at which water                      
drainage stops. They make the discontinuous column even shorter                 
and decrease rather than increase container drainage. This                      
negative effect can be either made worse, or lessened, by the                   
type of growing medium used and by the depth of the container.                  
                                                                                
If the growing medium is composed of materials that create very                 
small pores or air spaces, the medium will retain large                         
quantities of water and will drain less rapidly. This is one                    
reason regular garden soil is a very bad choice for a container                 
medium - its air spaces are very small. A mix of organic matter                 
such as compost or peatmoss combined with an inorganic material                 
such as perlitw or vermiculite will create much larger pore                     
spaces and will therefore be better drained.                                    
                                                                                
With regard to container depth, the shallower the container the                 
shorter the drainage column. Water drains downward in a container               
to a zone where all of the pores are filled with water and none                 
with air - (called the "perched water" table or zone).                          
                                                                                
For any type of medium this perched zone will be the same height.               
Therefore if the perched zone for a particular medium is one inch               
from the bottom of a container, for a six-inch-tall container                   
filled to the top there will be five inches of medium that can                  
drain well. Combine a short container with a medium that is not                 
very porous and the plant's roots will struggle to find adequate                
air. Combine that with a raised water line because you've put in                
pot shards or gravel, and the roots will actually often drown.                  
Container diameter has no influence on the height of the perched                
water zone; only depth matters in this connection.                              
                                                                                
With plastic, metal or glazed containers, all air that diffuses                 
into the soil enters either through the "soil" surface or through               
the drainage holes. If an unglazed clay pot is used, air can also               
enter through the pores in the clay (until theu become plugged                  
with medium oarticles or salts). An unglazed clay pot is                        
therefore the better choice for someone who tends to overwater;                 
and placing "drainage materials" in the other types of pots will                
not make up the aeration difference.                                            
                                                                                
As the time a plant spends in any one container increases, so too               
will the drainage problem. Organic materials (peatmoss, compost,                
bark etc.) in the medium will break down and decrease in volume.                
As the medium is continually watered it will be compacted. As it                
shrinks in volume and is compacted by watering the medium column                
will get shorter and shorter, as will the drainage column. After                
a plant has been expected to grow for a couple of years in a                    
shallow container filled with a non-porous medium it wil be lucky               
if any efforts can save it.                                                     
                                                                                
If you know that you have been doing any of these things that                   
could interfere with healthy root growth, carefully remove the                  
container and examine the plant's roots. Healthy roots on most                  
plants will be white or tan and the medium will simply have an                  
earthy smell. If the roots are brown or black and mushy when                    
touched, or if the medium has a foul, decaying odor, or both,                   
there has to be too much water in the medium. Trim off the dead                 
roots and repot your plant in a deeper pot with a more porous                   
medium. You may want to trim the top back at the same time, so                  
the limited roots won't have so much top growth to support.                     
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
December 1987  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                               
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Ellen Silva, Horticulture Extension               
Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist Home                  
Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has been                       
developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                        
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
Kiwi fruit								  34 lines                                                    
Persian violets							  29 lines                                                
Propagating and Harvesting French Tarragon		  16 lines                          
Sweet Cherry Pollination						  15 lines                                        
Symptoms of Incorrect Light Levels for Houseplants  25 lines                    
Increasing Humidity for Houseplants			  20 lines                                
Storing Potatoes							  31 lines                                               
Repotting Indoor Foliage Plants				  20 lines                                   
Inkberry Holly								  14 lines                                                
Growing Impatiens Indoors					  16 lines                                        
Caring for Streptocarpus						  15 lines                                        
                                                                                
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I have enjoyed kiwi fruit purchased at the grocery store, but                   
wish it were less expensive.  Can it be grown in the home garden                
in Virginia?                                                                    
                                                                                
Kiwi fruit, a fuzzy, egg-shaped fruit with a delicious, sweet/ta-               
rt flavor, can indeed be grown in Virginia.  There are actually                 
two species that can be grown in Virginia, Actinidia chinensis                  
and A. arguta.  A. chinensis, the typical grocery store kiwi, is                
a semi-tropical vine suited only to the eastern part of the                     
state.  A. arguta, the hardy kiwi, can be grown throughout the                  
state and produces a small, grape-sized, fuzzless fruit that can                
be eaten without peeling.  Both bear very heavy yields 2-5 years                
after     planting.                                                             
                                                                                
Grow the vigorous vines on a very sturdy arbor, trellis, or fence               
as for grapes.  Trellis posts should be 4"-6" in diameter and set               
2'-3' deep to support the very heavy mature plant.  Kiwi will                   
thrive in sun or light shade in rich or infertile soil, but                     
requires a very well-drained site as the roots are susceptible to               
rot.  Shade the root zone with mulch or a ground cover, and give                
extra water during dry spells until well established.  Both                     
species require the presence of a male plant for pollination,                   
with one male required for every 4 to 8 females.  One hardy kiwi                
variety, `Issai', is self-fruitful.  Prune the vines during the                 
winter for best fruit production.  Remove 3 year-old fruiting                   
branches along with any damaged wood and excessive first year                   
growth.  The fragrant, white flowers are borne in spring,                       
followed by the fruit which should reach full size by midsummer.                
Test for maturity by picking a few fruits and letting them soften               
and ripen to the firmness of a ripe peach.  Under-mature fruits                 
will shrivel rather than soften.  If freshly picked fruit is                    
place immediately in the refrigerator it will keep 8-12 weeks.                  
Remove the fruit several days before use to allow time for it to                
ripen.                                                                          
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
What are `Persian violets'? Are they related to African violets?                
                                                                                
Persian violets are not related to African violets, but they do                 
make as nice a houseplant.  There are actually two plants                       
commonly known as Persian violets, Cyclamen purpurascens, the                   
florist's cyclamen, and Exacum affine, also known as German or                  
Arabian violets.  The florist's cyclamen is usually purchased in                
bloom.  The numerous flowers, varying in color from white to deep               
red and purple, are held well above the attractive silver marked                
foliage.  The plants will bloom for 2 to 3 months, longer in                    
cooler rooms or when the surrounding humidity is high.  Place                   
them in bright light without direct sun and water only after the                
soil has become moderately dry.  Remove faded flowers and leaves.               
                                                                                
To bring the plant into flower the following year, gradually                    
reduce watering when the blooming period is over.  Let the soil                 
dry after all of the leaves fade, and store in a cool place for                 
the summer.  As new growth begins in the fall, repot the tuber,                 
bring it into the light, and start watering, keeping the soil                   
barely moist.  After the leaves develop, begin feeding every                    
other week with a standard houseplant fertilizer.                               
                                                                                
Exacum is also generally purchased in bloom.  Its lavender                      
flowers with bright yellow centers nearly cover its glossy                      
leaves, making it a very desirable houseplant.  Grow it in bright               
light but not strong direct sunlight, in a room with normally                   
warm temperatures.  Place the pots on trays of moist pebbles to                 
provide the high humidity exacum needs.  Pinch off fading flowers               
to encourage more blooms and bushy growth.  When the plant                      
becomes straggly, root cuttings to replace the parent plant.                    
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
I would like to increase my planting of French Tarragon.  How can               
I get it to set seed?  How can I maximize my harvest?                           
                                                                                
French Tarragon, Artemisia Dracunculus, does not set seed.  It                  
must be propagated vegetatively, that is, by taking cuttings or                 
making root divisions.  Perform this task in the spring.  French                
Tarragon needs to be reestablished in one of these ways every                   
three years or so to keep the plant from dying out.  Keep the                   
plant growing well by adding organic matter to the soil and                     
watering during dry spells.  This plant prefers light shade, so                 
plant it in a spot that might not be sunny enough for other                     
herbs.  When the plant is well established it will tolerate two                 
or three cuttings a year, the first and heaviest in June,                       
followed by lighter cuttings in July and August.  Alternatively,                
you may make light harvests continually throughout the summer                   
which will encourage new branches to grow.                                      
 -------------------                                                            
                                                                                
My three sweet cherry trees bloom every spring but never bear                   
fruit.  What could be the problem?  The varieties I am growing                  
are `Bing', `Napoleon', and `Lambert'.                                          
                                                                                
`Bing', `Napoleon', and `Lambert' are all late-blooming varieties               
of sweet cherries.  Unfortunately, though they bloom at the same                
time, they are unable to cross-pollinate each other.  You need to               
plant a cross-compatible variety such as `Viva' or `Valera' for                 
good pollination.  These varieties are early bloomers but the                   
flowering seasons overlap sufficiently for fruit production.                    
Another consideration in selecting cherry varieties is the amount               
of cracking in the ripe fruit.  Both `Viva' and `Valera' show                   
little cracking in Virginia while `Bing' shows quite alot.  If                  
you have no room to plant an additional tree, replace `Bing' with               
`Viva' or `Valera'.                                                             
                                                                                
 ------------------                                                             
                                                                                
How can I tell if my houseplants are getting the right amount of                
light?                                                                          
                                                                                
One of the most common signs of inadequate light is yellow and                  
dropping leaves.  That is also one of the most common signs of                  
too much light.  To figure out if either of these situations is                 
your problem, you will have to look more carefully at your                      
plants.  Flowering plants that don't flower, any plants with                    
leaves angled toward the light and long, spindly stems, plants                  
such as coleus whose red pigments have faded, or plants whose new               
leaves are smaller are all showing signs of inadequate light.                   
Either move these plants to a brighter spot or supplement natural               
light with artificial light.  Foliage plants require nothing more               
than an inexpensive, cool, white flourescent lamp;  combine a                   
cool white lamp with a warm red lamp to ensure the best bloom in                
flowering plants.  When your plant's leaves show signs of overall               
yellowing or have large spots of dry, dead tissue known as leaf                 
scorch or leaf burn, the problem may be too much light.  Use a                  
diffuser curtain to reduce the amount of direct sunlight hitting                
the plant, or move it further away from the window.  Even if the                
light level is correct for a given plant the same symptoms may                  
develop if it was moved straight from a low light intensity to a                
much brighter spot.  Make such moves gradually to allow the plant               
to adjust to the new light levels.                                              
                                                                                
 ------------------                                                             
                                                                                
It gets very dry in my house in the winter.  Does this hurt my                  
plants?  What can I do to help?                                                 
                                                                                
Most plants prefer a relative humidity of 50-60%.  During the                   
winter, most homes have a relative humidity of 10-15%.  Low                     
humidities such as these can cause plant leaf edges and tips to                 
brown, flower buds to brown and fall off, and keep the whole                    
plant from thriving.  The best solution is to use a humidifier of               
some sort to raise the relative humidity of the whole house or                  
the room where the plants are located.  This will not only help                 
the plants but will make the house more comfortable for human                   
inhabitants.  If this is not practical, try growing the plants in               
the kitchen or bathroom, where the air is naturally humid.  Small               
plants can be grown in a terrarium, where humidity levels are                   
easily kept high.  Place plants in groups where the water vapor                 
given off by each plant benefits the others.  Even better, group                
the plants on a tray of moistened pebbles or long-fibered                       
sphagnum moss.  This will raise the local humidity to an                        
acceptable level.  Misting the plants once or twice a day helps,                
but is really a very short-term remedy.                                         
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
How can I keep my stored potatoes from sprouting? I dig my                      
potatoes in September and keep them in a cool basement, but by                  
March they are shriveled and have sprouts two feet long. Can I                  
spray a chemical on them to prevent this?                                       
                                                                                
Commercial potato growers do spray antisprouting chemicals on the               
vines in the fields, but these chemicals are not available to                   
home growers.  Commercial potato storage operators also control                 
sprouting by fumigation, obviously not a process usable in home                 
storage.  Furthermore, there is some question as to the safety of               
the various chemicals being used for these purposes.  The best                  
route for the home gardener to take is to plant the right                       
varieties at the right time, prepare the tubers properly for                    
storage, and store them under the correct conditions.                           
                                                                                
Late-maturing potatoes are best suited for storage because they                 
are harvested at a time when it is easier to meet the cool, moist               
storage conditions potatoes require.  `Norgold Russet',                         
`Burbank', and `Kennebec' are all notable good keepers.  Check                  
your seed catalogs for other recommendations.  Harvest when the                 
potatoes are mature and the tops have completely dried.  There is               
no need to rush harvest - the tubers may remain in the ground for               
several weeks after the potato foliage dies back.  After digging                
the potatoes, cure the tubers in a moist, dark location for one                 
to two weeks at 60 degrees to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Then store                 
them in a dark location at 35 degrees to 40 degrees Fahrenheit                  
and with a high humidity of around 90 per cent.  Light promotes                 
sprouting and will turn the potatoes green and inedible.                        
Periodically remove the sprouts by hand during the winter. It is                
the sprout growth combined with low humidity that shrivels the                  
potato.                                                                         
                                                                                
 --------------                                                                 
                                                                                
When should I repot my indoor foliage plants? How do I go about                 
it?                                                                             
                                                                                
Permanent houseplants usually need to be repotted annually until                
they attain their final size.  The best time for this procedure                 
is during a slow growth period, which will be during early spring               
for most plants.  Check the drainage holes of the pots to see if                
any roots are showing. If so, the plant is probably potbound and                
needs repotting. For best growth, the plant should be moved to a                
pot that has a diameter 1 to 1 1/2 inches larger than the one it                
is presently growing in.                                                        
                                                                                
Cover your work area with newspapers.  Prepare the new pot with a               
layer of potting soil at the bottom that is deep enough to hold                 
the plant at the desired height.  Place your hand over the old                  
pot with the plant extending between your fingers.  Turn it over                
and gently knock the root ball out of the pot.  Place the plant                 
in the larger pot then pour potting soil around the root ball.                  
Tamp or firm the soil gently with your finger tips as you fill                  
the pot.   Cover the root ball to the same depth it was                         
previously. Leave 1 to 1 1/2 inches of pot rim above the soil to                
facilitate watering.  Water thoroughly.  Place the plant in a                   
low-light area for a few days, then return it to its normal                     
location.  Do not apply any houseplant food for several weeks as                
the new potting soil will meet the plants needs.                                
                                                                                
 --------------                                                                 
                                                                                
Can you recommend an evergreen plant for use as a foundation                    
plant in a poorly drained site?  I would prefer something that                  
doesn't require much maintenance.                                               
                                                                                
One possibility would be the inkberry holly, Ilex glabra.  It is                
a very hardy evergreen shrub that does well in poorly drained                   
sites.  Its leathery leaves are glossy and dark green.  In May it               
has inconspicuous flowers which attract bees and are followed by                
black berries when a male plant is nearby to pollinate the                      
flowers.  The female cloned variety `Compacta' grows to a height                
of 3 to 3 1/2 feet with a 3 1/2 to 4 foot spread, making this                   
shrub very suitable for use as a foundation plant or for use in                 
an informal hedge.  Pruning would not be necessary to keep this                 
plant in bounds for such uses.                                                  
                                                                                
 ------------------                                                             
                                                                                
I have enjoyed impatiens in my garden all summer.  How can I grow               
them in my house during the winter?                                             
                                                                                
Impatiens, Impatiens wallerana, can easily be enjoyed as a                      
houseplant.  Cuttings taken from plants growing in the garden can               
be rooted in water and potted up for winter enjoyment.  The plant               
may also be purchased already growing as a houseplant.  Any soil                
will do for impatiens plants, as long as it is not highly                       
fertile.  Too rich a potting mix will discourage blooming and                   
encourage leggy growth.  When grown indoors the plant requires                  
some sun to bloom; an east or west window would provide enough                  
light for good growth and blooming.  The New Guinea hybrids                     
require more sun and require a south facing window.  The plants                 
will do well in rooms of average temperatures.  As the conditions               
get warmer the plants will need more water.  Impatiens have a                   
tendency to get leggy as they grow.  When this happens, simply                  
take new cuttings and start over.                                               
                                                                                
 ----------------                                                               
                                                                                
I have been given a streptocarpus as a gift.  How do I care for                 
it?                                                                             
                                                                                
Streptocarpus species, also known as cape primrose, are very                    
attractive flowering plants with their trumpet-shaped flowers and               
long primroselike leaves.  They are related to African violets                  
and require similar care.                                                       
                                                                                
Equal parts of good garden soil, granulated peat and sand are a                 
satisfactory soil mixture. They thrive in bright light but not                  
direct sun.  Set the pot on a layer of pebbles, and water the                   
pebbles whenever the plant is watered to provide high humidity                  
around the plant.                                                               
                                                                                
Water the plant liberally to encourage more flowers while the                   
plant is actively growing, but as blooming diminishes, so should                
watering.  When the plant ceases to bloom, allow the soil to dry                
almost completely between waterings.  Ferilize with a liquid                    
fertilizer every two weeks while the plant is blooming.                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
FEBRUARY NOTES                                                                  
                                                                                
* Planning pays off in the intensively cultivated vegetable                     
garden. If you are a novice vegetable gardener, request Publicat-               
ion 836, "Guide to the Beginning Gardener" from your local                      
extension agent. If you are more experienced but have specific                  
questions, there are over 80 fact sheets available to assist you.               
                                                                                
* Plan on hanging a few vegetables this spring, not for criminal                
offense, but for a convenient harvest on your porch or deck. Bush               
cucumbers, small tomato varieties, even lettuce and spinach                     
can be grown in hanging baskets. Many herbs including chives,                   
parsley, and thyme are well-suited to baskets.                                  
                                                                                
* Something new --- True Potato Seed (T.P.S.) are exactly                       
what they are called, true seed (not seed pieces from the tuber)                
for producing a potato crop. The variety Explorer represents                    
a significant breakthrough in potato breeding. Watch for it in                  
catalogs.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Water shrubs in your landscape if the soil is dry. Evergreen                  
plants transpire water from their leaves whenever air temperature               
is above 40 degrees F.                                                          
                                                                                
* Shrubs for spring planting should be ordered now. Bare root,                  
deciduous types should be planted while still dormant, about                    
1 month before the average date of last frost in your area. Hardy               
container-grown and balled and burlapped shrubs may be planted                  
anytime except during severe cold weather.                                      
                                                                                
* Time to transplant deciduous native plants if the ground is                   
not too wet or too frozen.                                                      
                                                                                
* Don't remove your mulch too early. A warm day may make you                    
think spring is almost here but there may be more cold weather                  
yet to come.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Bring branches of spring flowering shrubs and fruit trees                     
indoors to force into bloom. Within about 3 weeks, their flowers                
bring a promise of spring.                                                      
                                                                                
* Don't start your vegetable and flower plants indoors too                      
early. Six weeks ahead of the expected planting date is early                   
enough for the fast-growth species. Eight weeks allows enough                   
time for the slower-growing types.                                              
                                                                                
* Prune shrubs and trees on warm days this month after the                      
coldest weather is past in your area. In the cooler mountain                    
areas of Virginia wait until late February. Wait until early                    
summer to prune your spring flowering shrubs in order to get                    
maximum blossoms.                                                               
                                                                                
* Work the area for early spring garden crops as soon as pos-                   
sible. Apply lime if your soil tests indicate a need. Peas,                     
onions, and Irish potatoes can be planted before March 1 in                     
eastern Virginia.                                                               
                                                                                
* Fruit trees such as peaches, pears, apples and plums can be                   
sprayed with dormant oils to reduce insect problems.                            
                                                                                
* Prune fruit trees and grapes in late February or early March                  
after the worst of the winter cold is passed but before spring                  
growth begins.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Order gladiolus corms now for planting later in the spring                    
after all danger of frost has passed. Locate in full sun in                     
well-drained soil.                                                              
                                                                                
* Bare-rooted trees and shrubs can be planted in late winter                    
while still dormant. Prune off dead or damaged roots and plant                  
in a hole large enough to accommodate root spread in a natural                  
shape. Prune top to compensate for loss of roots.                               
                                                                                
* Kerosene heaters in a small home greenhouse may damage plants                 
from the fumes produced.                                                        
                                                                                
* Root pruning will enhance success of transplanting trees and                  
shrubs if you can wait until next year to move them. This spring                
use a sharp spade to cut a circle 8 inches deep around the                      
plant. (Distance from the trunk will depend on plant size.) New                 
roots form inside this circle during the growing season and can                 
be moved to the new location next spring.                                       
                                                                                
* On mild, sunny days be sure to ventilate cold frames and green-               
houses.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Onion seeds for transplants can be sown indoors early this                    
month.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Order your vegetable and annual flower seeds now while you                    
still have a selection.                                                         
                                                                                
* Remove honeysuckle and other weedy vines from deciduous plants                
while the plants are still leafless. It's easier to distinguish                 
between the weeds and desired plants.                                           
                                                                                
* Gardening in a raised bed improves drainage and gives an                      
earlier start in areas with cold, wet soil.                                     
                                                                                
* If your soil dries out extra fast in the summer, you may                      
experiment with gardening in a depression. Prepare soil in a hole               
or trough several inches below the surface of paths to reduce                   
evaporation and make watering easier.                                           
                                                                                
* Tired of Christmas poinsettia? Don't feel guilty if you toss                  
it out. It, like the Christmas tree, has its seasonal symbolism                 
that many of us prefer to keep intact.                                          
                                                                                
* Use some of the coldest days of February to sit by a fire and                 
read a good gardening book. It will give you ideas and inspira-                 
tion for the spring.                                                            
                                                                                
* Pressed flowers collected last summer or pictures from your old               
garden catalogs can be used to add a romantic floral touch to an                
old-fashioned valentine.                                                        
                                                                                
* Make labels for this spring's garden.  Plastic milk jugs or                   
bleach bottles cut in strips 1 inch by 6 or 7 work well. Use                    
permanent ink markers to write on them.                                         
                                                                                
* Grape vine pruning can be made into attractive wreaths decorat-               
ed with hearts or birds nests as a valentine gift or made into a                
heart shape over a wire frame.                                                  
                                                                                
* Wash your house plants and your windows occasionally to get the               
maximum light to the leaves. Showers for your plants will also                  
help reduce pests such as spider mites.                                         
                                                                                
* If you have seed left from last year, test for germination by                 
placing 10 or 20 in a moist paper towel and covering with                       
plastic. If seed germination is poor, order new seeds - the                     
smallest investment in your gardening budget.                                   
                                                                                
* Check any vegetables you have in storage. Use or dispose of                   
any that show signs of shriveling or rotting.                                   
                                                                                
* Ever wonder why apricots don't set much fruit in Virginia? It                 
is because of the warm days in February or March that encourage                 
the apricot to break dormancy and bloom - only to be followed by                
more freezing weather that knocks the fruit off.                                
                                                                                
* If a warm weekend shows up, consider working an area in the                   
garden for early spring planting. But check the soil first; it                  
should be dry enough to crumble in your hand before you work it.                
                                                                                
* For those who enjoy growing annual herbs but are frustrated by                
the number of extra seed in each packet, make a thoughtful gift                 
for friends or co-workers. On a card draw a design for a small                  
herb garden, then divide the seed from the packet into small                    
envelopes such as a stamp collectors use. Tape the seed to the                  
garden plan and offer a few cultural hints.                                     
                                                                                
* Watch for signs of "heaving" amoung your perennials and small                 
shrubs. The freezing and thawing of the ground can force shallow-               
rooted plants out of the soil. Replant any that have been                       
"heaved" and mulch with 2 inches of organic material to reduce                  
soil temperature fluctuation.                                                   
                                                                                
* In most of Virginia it's too early to start all but your                      
slowestgrowing seed (such as onions), but it's not too early to                 
start getting ready. Gather and wash seeding flats. Treat with a                
1:10 bleach solution to kill micro-organisms. Collect "pots"                    
for transplanting seedings such as styrofoam cups, 3-inch deep                  
bands cut from quart milk jugs, etc.                                            
                                                                                
* Start building up your supply of gardening aids such as plastic               
milk jugs for hot caps and orange juice cans to make guards to                  
stop cut worms.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Cold winds this month should remind you to order evergreen                    
windbreaks. Some suggestions: American arborvitae, Austrian                     
pine, Canadian hemlock, white spruce.                                           
                                                                                
* For cut flowers this summer, order phlox, daisies, dahlias,                   
cosmos, asters, gladiolus, and lilies.                                          
                                                                                
* Prune fruit trees and shade trees as buds begin to swell. For                 
disease and insect control, cut out dead wood and dispose of the                
prunings.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Apple and pear trees are best trained with a modified central                 
leader. Prune to maintain a pyramidal shape--wide at the bottom,                
gradually tapering toward the top. Order publication 426-841 for                
complete instructions.                                                          
                                                                                
* Peaches grow best when maintained with an open center (no                     
central leader). Keep three or four strong scaffold branches                    
evenly distributed around the trunk. Limbs which branch out at a                
60 degree angle are preferred, but spreaders can be used to                     
widen narrow crotch angles.                                                     
                                                                                
* Prune grapes, roses, bush fruits, foliage shrubs, and shrubs                  
which flower in summer while dormant but after the coldest part                 
of winter.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Branches of forsythia, pussy willow, quince, spirea, and                      
dogwood can be forced for indoor bloom. Make long, slanted cuts                 
when collecting the branches and place them in a vase of water.                 
Change the water every four days.                                               
                                                                                
* Bring some apple, cherry, and peach boughs indoors for forcing.               
While the color of fruit blossoms are somewhat pale when forced                 
they hint of the spring show ahead.                                             
                                                                                
* Incorporate any organic matter which you spread on the garden                 
this fall as soon as the soil is thawed and drained.                            
                                                                                
* For an early crop, sow spinach seed in well-drained soil which                
was turned over in autumn. Cover lightly with strawy manure.                    
                                                                                
* Pinch off early buds from developing pansies to encourage                     
plants to branch and form more buds.                                            
                                                                                
* Watch for signs of growth in spring bulbs. Start removing mulch               
gradually when foliage is 1" high. Cloudy days are best best for                
the intial exposure of the leaves as strong sunlight can burn                   
tender foliage.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Fertilize fruit trees as soon as possible after the ground                    
thaws but before blossom time.                                                  
                                                                                
* If bird feeding has been a favorite activity this winter,                     
order trees and shrubs which provide cover and small fruits for                 
your feathered friends. Consider species such as crabapple,                     
hawthorn, holly, dogwood, and pyracantha which help lure hungery                
birds from cultivated fruits, if planted on the opposite side of                
the yard.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Check valuable trees and shrubs for silvery gray, foamy-looking               
tent caterpillar egg masses and bag worms. Remove egg cases to                  
reduce the number of destructive pests this spring.                             
                                                                                
* As a mid-winter project grow plants from fruit seeds. Oranges,                
grapefruits, lemons, tangerines, and pomegranates may have viable               
seed. Try germinating them in a light potting soil mixture                      
containing half peat moss. Keep seeds well watered and in a                     
warm location. If seedlings fail to appear in six weeks, try                    
again.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Citrus plants grown from seeds generally will not produce                     
flowers or fruit, but they will have attractive shiny-leaved                    
foliage.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Blueberries are self-sterile. Be sure to plan for more than                   
one variety to achieve pollination necessary for fruit. High                    
bush blueberries make attractive ornamental hedges with bright                  
red fall color.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Design a flower bed for a shady area. Plan to try impatiens,                  
foxgloves, rosy vinca, begonias,and browallia.                                  
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
February 1986 Press Releases                                                    
                                                                                
Stems of Flowering Shrubs for Winter Decoration      52 lines                   
Pruning Summer Flowering Shrubs                      37 lines                   
Cabbage                                              53 lines                   
Planting Early Vegetables                            54 lines                   
Houseplants from Groceries                           37 lines                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Stems of Flowering Shrubs for Winter Decoration                                 
                                                                                
     The stems of many types of flowering shrubs and trees may be               
used for beautiful winter arrangements. Those brown stems on your               
forsythia and other spring flowering shrubs will burst into bloom               
if you bring them into the house, unless they bloomed extensively               
last fall as they did in many parts of the state. Branches which                
have been out in the cold all winter are ready to break dormancy.               
Indoors they will bloom in a relatively short time once exposed                 
to warm temperatures.                                                           
     Do not be afraid that you will damage your shrubs by the                   
removal of a few stems. The cutting of branches from vigorous                   
shrubs is a beneficial part of the pruning operation. This will                 
help to renew the growth, and keep the bush in a well-proportion-               
ed form.                                                                        
     When cutting stems for indoor use, select those with                       
well-spaced side branches. Make a slanting cut at the base and                  
place the stem in a container of cool, fresh water. Remove any                  
buds or leaves from the part which will be under the water.                     
Place the dormant branches in a warm, well-lighted room until the               
flowers appear.                                                                 
     Open, spreading growth produces the best cut stems. The best               
branches can be secured from shrubs located on the edge of an                   
open lawn area or in a wide mixed border planting. Shrubs in the                
foundation planting which are heavily pruned will not provide                   
attractive, well-shaped branches.                                               
     Many types of flowering shrubs and trees add interest                      
and beauty to your landscape and supply branches for decorative                 
use. If you don't have them already, plant some of the following                
kinds this spring:                                                              
     Forsythia is one of the most popular spring flowering shrubs               
with bright yellow flowers which appear before the foliage.                     
     Winter Honeysuckle is a medium-size spreading shrub which                  
produces fragrant white flowers in April. The berries are                       
attractive to birds.                                                            
     Fragrant Viburnum is a tall, erect shrub which has fragrant                
pink to white flowers in late March.                                            
     Japanese Andromeda is a tall, compact, bushy evergreen shrub               
with white, urn-shaped flowers in sprays resembling Lily-of-the--               
Valley in late April.                                                           
     Mountain Andromeda is a medium-size, compact, slow growing                 
shrub which produces white flowers in upright open panicles.                    
     Pussy Willow has large silky gray buds which add unique                    
interest to early spring flower arrangements.                                   
     Fruit trees of many types can provide branches for early                   
spring forcing. The flowers of cherry, pear and plum are white.                 
Apple and peach flowers have attractive pink tones.                             
     Red Maple produces interesting stems when the small flowers                
develop and the young leaves first appear.                                      
     Horse Chestnut branches have showy flowers and attractive                  
young foliage.                                                                  
     For especially attractive arrangements, try mixing some of                 
the branches from different plants.                                             
                                                                                
Pruning Summer Flowering Shrubs                                                 
                                                                                
     Before the first signs of spring arrive, there are some                    
chores that the home gardener should do. Pruning of summer                      
flowering shrubs is one of those tasks.                                         
     The blooms of summer flowering shrubs develop on new wood;                 
therefore, in early spring, before the new growth begins, these                 
shrubs should be pruned. Here are suggestions on how to prune                   
some of the common summer flowering shrubs.                                     
                                                                                
Butterflybush--Cut the stems to the ground every year to promote                
new growth and produce large flower stalks.                                     
                                                                                
Crepe myrtle--Prune to control the shape and produce flowers. If                
this plant isn't pruned, it will produce small flowers or no                    
flowers at all. Heavy pruning is needed for vivid flower dis-                   
plays.                                                                          
                                                                                
Hydrangea--Prune back to a few buds to promote new growth. Cut                  
out crowded stems as necessary.                                                 
                                                                                
Magnolia--Cut back the tips of new shoots when necessary to shape               
the plant. Do not prune the branches except when a poorly shaped                
or damaged plant must be reshaped.                                              
                                                                                
Hypericum St. Johnswort--Thin crowded branches and cut other                    
branches back, leaving about two buds on each branch.                           
                                                                                
Spirea--Some common summer flowering types are Anthony Waterer,                 
Bumalda, Japanese and Billiard. Remove crowded stems as necessary               
and cut other stems back to a few buds. Remove the seed pods when               
they form.                                                                      
                                                                                
Sumac--The common types are staghorn and smooth sumac. Prune the                
stems to the grounds to promote new growth. Sumac can be trained                
to grow as a tree when only one stem is allowed to grow.                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Cabbage                                                                         
                                                                                
     Remember cabbage when you start planning your spring                       
garden. This crop grows best during cool, humid weather. Well-                  
hardened plants will survive temperatures as low as 20 degrees                  
Fahrenheit.                                                                     
     You need not worry much about frost with this crop. Cabbage                
plants may safely be set in your garden about a month before the                
average date of the last frost in your area. Sow seeds indoors                  
about six or eight weeks earlier, to produce the young plants you               
need.                                                                           
     The edible part of cabbage is an enormous terminal bud,                    
composed of large leaves in a compact head. It is rich in                       
vitamins C and A, and quite low in calories. Cabbage is an                      
excellent food because it provides roughage to aid digestion, and               
in the raw form, it is a good cleanser for teeth and gums.                      
     Consider the different types of cabbage when you order your                
seeds. Popular green varieties are available for early, midseason               
and late maturity. Also try the red or purple types which will                  
add new interest when used for cole slaw or salad.                              
     Are you familar with the savoy cabbage? This type has                      
puckered or wrinkled leaves. The head does not become as hard as                
the green or red types. Savoy cabbage has a pleasant mild                       
flavor when served raw or cooked.                                               
     In selecting varieties of cabbage, look for those which are                
resistant to yellows. This fungus disease lives over winter in                  
the soil and is easy to control if you rotate crops and select                  
resistant varieties.                                                            
     Six to a dozen plants should give a family all the early                   
cabbage they need. Follow this with successive plantings of seeds               
to provide a continuous supply during the summer and fall.                      
     Promote vigorous growth with adequate water, and mulch to                  
conserve soil moisture. Do not allow the soil to become dry when                
the plants approach maturity. If you apply water, or have a good                
rainstorm after a drought, your cabbage heads may split open. To                
reduce splitting cut the roots on one side of the plant with a                  
sharp spade.                                                                    
     Cabbages may be harvested for home use over a period of                    
several weeks. Trim them carefully, leaving as many green leaves                
as possible. These outer leaves are the most nutritious.                        
     Cabbage may be served in many ways to tempt the appetite. In               
the raw form it is delicious as cole slaw, or when mixed with                   
apples and raisins as a combination salad. As a cooked vegetable,               
cabbage may be boiled, stuffed, or used in soup. It is a particu-               
larly tasty dish when combined with cheese in a casserole.                      
     One type of cabbage which may not be successful if planted                 
now is the Chinese cabbage. If sown in the spring for a summer                  
crop, the temperature may get too high before a good head is                    
formed and the plants may go to seed rather than make good heads.               
Chinese cabbage should be planted in midsummer about 90 days                    
before the average first fall frost date. It will then form crisp               
firm heads which may be used as coleslaw, salad, or boiled.                     
                                                                                
Planting Early Crops                                                            
                                                                                
     It is time to plant early vegetables in your garden. You may               
sow the hardy types about a month before the average last frost                 
date in your area. It is late already in some parts of Virginia.                
     To promote vigorous growth, apply a liberal application of                 
5-10-5 fertilizer when you plow your garden. Broadcast about four               
pounds per 100 square feet and disc it into the top five inches                 
of soil before planting.                                                        
     Do not cover seeds too deeply in your early plantings. The                 
soil is cool and moist and the seeds need only a light covering.                
A depth of two or three times their longest dimension is plenty.                
     Lettuce is one of the best early crops. Try Salad Bowl if                  
you have not selected it before. It is a leaf lettuce which grows               
very well even after warm weather arrives. Great Lakes is a                     
dependable lettuce of the solid, crisp-head type in areas where                 
spring is long and cool. However in much of Virginia it is very                 
difficult to get a good yield on crisp-head types of lettuse due                
to the heat. If you have had trouble producing a headed lettuse,                
you should also include a few plants of Buttercrunch. This is an                
All America Selection of the Bibb type which has thick, tender,                 
delicious quality in  a loose head. The Cos or Romaine type                     
lettuce are also quite heat tolerant and produce an attractive                  
elongated head.                                                                 
     Include a few radishes in your early garden, but not too                   
many. They will be ready to eat in about four weeks, but will                   
become quite sharp in flavor as soon as warm weather arrives.                   
     Secure some onion sets or small plants from your local                     
garden center of seed source. They will grow rapidly and soon be                
ready for use as early green onions. Silverskin is a mild white                 
variety which is ideal for this purpose.                                        
     Nothing surpasses the delicious sweet flavor of early green                
peas, fresh from the garden. Try Alaska or Greater Progress. All                
of these will be ready to pick in about 60 days. Wando matures                  
about a week later but will tolerate warm weather better than                   
most other peas. Also consider the edible-podded peas for an                    
early crop. The snow peas can be sown at the same time as other                 
green peas; however, the snap peas such as Sugar Snap will                      
germinate better if the soil has warmed slightly.                               
     For early greens, plant mustard. Tendergreen and Southern                  
Giant Curled varieties will be ready to harvest in five or six                  
weeks. Kale is another crop for greens which should be in your                  
early garden. Dwarf Blue Curled Vates is ready to harvest in                    
about eight weeks.                                                              
     Broccoli is an easy crop for the home garden. You will need                
to spray or dust a few times to control the green cabbage worms.                
Premium Crop is fine for the early crop because it tolerates                    
heat. Be sure to include early cabbage in the spring garden.                    
Plant yellows resistant varieties such as Stonehead. You will be                
able to harvest either broccoli, or cabbage about eight or nine                 
weeks after you set the plants in your garden.                                  
     For the latest suggestions on varieties, contact the                       
Extension Agent in your county for a copy of publication 426-480                
"Vegetables Recommended for Virginia."                                          
                                                                                
Houseplants from Groceries                                                      
                                                                                
     When you bring home produce from the grocery, you may very                 
well have purchased items which may be used to produce house-                   
plants. You and your children can gain some horticultural                       
knowledge by growing fruit and vegetable plants from kitchen                    
wastes.                                                                         
     Carrots produce graceful fern-like leaves. To start a carrot               
plant, cut a 1/2 inch section from the top of a carrot. Plant it                
in moist sand with the uppermost part exposed. Small leaves will                
soon appear if the carrot start is kept moist.                                  
     Pineapples can be started somewhat like carrots. Cut off                   
the part containing the top green leaves with one inch of solid                 
fruit attached. Place the basal part which includes the fruit                   
into water leaving the leaves exposed to the air. When roots                    
develop, transplant to a pot with well-drained potting soil.                    
Cover the plant with a plastic bag for three weeks to help it                   
acclimate to its new environment.                                               
     Sweet potatoes produce viny stems somewhat similar to                      
philodendron. Develop this plant by putting a sweet potato root                 
in a container of water leaving the top 1/3 exposed to the air.                 
The vines which grow can be trained on a stake or small trellis.                
     Try planting grapefruit, orange, lemon, or tangerine seeds.                
As soon as the seeds are removed from the fruit, plant them                     
in a soil mixture which contains 50% sphagnum peat moss. Keep                   
these seeds damp, warm, and in a bright but indirect light and                  
watch for plants to grow.                                                       
     Avocado pits are often rooted for indoor plants. After                     
cleaning off the pit, insert three or four toothpicks 1/2 inch                  
into the pit at its midpoint. Space the toothpicks evenly around                
the seed since they will support the the pit in a container of                  
water. Balance the pit over a glass of water, placing the                       
wider of the ends in the water. If kept in a warm, well-lit                     
environment a root will appear in 3-4 weeks followed by leaves.                 
After four leaves are present, transplant to a deep pot contain-                
ing potting media.                                                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
FEBRUARY 1986 QUESTION BOX                                                      
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan and Debbie Blosser,               
Horticulture Extension Technicians, working with Diane Relf,                    
Extension Specialist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener                   
Question Box has been developed for agent use in preparing radio                
and newspaper features.                                                         
                                                                                
EDITOR'S NOTE: In the January 1986 TVG Question Box, in reference               
to little-leaf linden: Foliage feeding insects such as Japanese                 
beetles can cause serious damage to little-leaf and American                    
lindens in areas where there are high populations of these                      
insects.                                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
Saffron                                       25 lines                          
Vegetable Gardening in the Shade              19 lines                          
Serviceberry                                  37 lines                          
Spanish Malibar Spinach                       15 lines                          
Terrace Construction                          20 lines                          
Storing Winter Squash                         14 lines                          
Pansies                                       25 lines                          
Cactus Blooming                               39 lines                          
Lithops (Living rocks)                        51 lines                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Where does the spice saffron come from?                                         
                                                                                
Saffron comes from the dried stigmas of Crocus sativus, autumn                  
crocus. Crocuses grow wild in the Mediterranean region and into                 
southwest Asia. They belong to the Iris family. There are more                  
than seventy-five species, and numerous forms or varieties.                     
Several are available through seed catalogs and garden centers.                 
                                                                                
Saffron flowers are called autumn crocus because as the weather                 
turns cold and the trees begin shedding their leaves, lovely                    
lilac flowers appear. Each flower has three scarlet-orange                      
stigmas which are collected, dried and used as a textile dye or                 
food spice.                                                                     
                                                                                
Purchase mature saffron plants or corms to observe the flowers.                 
New corms usually won't blossom for three years. The corms are                  
planted in late July to early August. Place them six inches deep                
and six inches apart. The soil should be light and rich; the                    
location sheltered.                                                             
                                                                                
If you expect to collect the stigmas, be sure to plant thousands                
of saffron as 60,000 stigmas weigh only a pound. Obviously, the                 
dried material is very expensive, and the spice sold is often                   
adulterated--or stretched--with arnica or calendula petals or                   
safflower florets.                                                              
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
Part of my yard is shaded from a nearby tree. Since this is the                 
only place I can have a garden, are there any vegetables which                  
can be grown in that area?                                                      
                                                                                
Provided that this section of your garden is not densely shaded                 
and receives some direct sun, you should be able to grow many                   
leafy vegetables and root crops. Some of the vegetables to                      
consider include lettuce, Swiss chard, spinach, mustard greens,                 
cabbage, kale, chives, parsley, beets, radish, turnips and                      
carrots. Fruiting crops such as tomato, cucumber, sweet corn,                   
beans and squash require a minimun of 6 to 8 hours of direct                    
sunlight each day for good growth and yields and would not be                   
recommended for the shaded area of your garden.                                 
                                                                                
One other consideration about gardening in this area is the                     
location of the trees' roots. A shallow rooted tree would remove                
water and nutrients your garden needs. You might have to install                
irrigation and increase fertilization if this is the case. If                   
your garden is quite a distance from the tree itself, this may                  
not be necessary.                                                               
                                                                                
 -------------                                                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
I'm looking for a large shrub, 20' tall or more, with year-round                
interest. What should I plant?                                                  
                                                                                
Amelanchier, or serviceberry, is a plant which adds landscape                   
interest throughout the year. In April, it produces a profusion                 
of small white flowers which last only a week or so. In summer,                 
the foliage is finely textured and turns into a vivid display                   
ranging from yellow-orange to red as fall approaches. In midsum-                
mer small reddish, apple-like fruits appear. These can be                       
made into jelly when the fruit ripens. During winter months, the                
silvery bark and graceful branches and trunks are noticeable,                   
especially when outlined with fresh snow.                                       
                                                                                
Species of serviceberry reach 30-35 feet at maturity and can be                 
used as a large shrub or small tree. The plant is especially                    
attractive against a dark woodland background. It looks best                    
when incorporated into natural or informal settings.                            
                                                                                
Since the serviceberry is a member of the rose family, it                       
sometimes is affected by diseases and insects that cause problems               
on other members of the family such as apple, quince, and                       
crabapple. However, none of these problems are serious enough to                
discourage the use of the plant.                                                
                                                                                
The three most common species are Amelanchier canadensis (shad-                 
blow serviceberry), A. laevis (allegheny serviceberry), A. x                    
grandiflora (apple serviceberry). A. canadensis is a shrub with                 
erect stems and spreads by suckers at the base of the plant. It                 
will grow from 6 to 20 feet tall and has yellow to gold fall                    
color. White flowers are born on 2-3" long racemes and fruit is                 
black, juicy, and sweet. A. laevis has bronze-colored unfolding                 
leaves. Its fruit is black and sweet. A. x grandiflora is a                     
natural hybrid between A. arborea and A. laevis. The young                      
leaves of A. x grandiflora are purplish and pubescent. The                      
flowers are larger and the racemes longer and slimmer than on                   
the above species. Also, its flower buds are tinged in pink.                    
Unless flowers and developing leaves are present, these species                 
are difficult to accurately separate.                                           
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
I just ordered Malabar spinach seeds. It was advertised as a                    
three-season, climbing spinach which does not bolt. Please                      
provide information on proper culture.                                          
                                                                                
For gardeners interested in a long production spinach crop,                     
Malabar spinach (Basella alba or B. rubra) may satisfy them. Also               
known as Ceylon Spinach and Vine Spinach, it is native to India.                
Although unrelated to spinach, it may be substituted for spinach                
in cooked foods.                                                                
                                                                                
Malabar spinach seed can be started under fluorescent light in                  
early spring, but do not place transplants outdoors until all                   
danger of frost has past. Germination at 70 degrees F with a                    
heating cable takes about seven days. Outdoors you can plant                    
seeds/plants 2-3 feet apart, six inches from a fence or trellis                 
as plants climb readily. Seeds should be sown 1" deep after the                 
last frost date in your area.                                                   
                                                                                
Malabar spinach is one of only a few leafy vegetables with a long               
production season. The more leaves harvested, the more new growth               
is produced. Two or three new leaves begin developing where one                 
leaf is pinched out. The process never quits until the plants are               
frost-killed in the fall. The crop is relatively disease and                    
insect-free but the fungus, Cercospora beticola sometimes causes                
leaf spotting. Infected leaves should be removed as soon as they                
are noticed.                                                                    
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
We're thinking of adding a terrace to our house. What things                    
should we take into consideration when planning the design?                     
                                                                                
A terrace can be an attractive and useful addition to the home                  
landscape. It will enhance the value of your property and                       
provide a location for recreation and entertainment. A terrace                  
near the house will provide an extra outdoor room for family                    
living. From a landscapers' point of view, the terrace serves as                
a platform for the residence and improves the relationship of the               
house to the grounds.                                                           
                                                                                
The terrace should be located adjacent to the kitchen or family                 
room of the home. Make it large enough for the intended use.                    
Allow adequate space for tables and chairs and the easy movement                
of people. As a general rule, the terrace should be as wide as                  
the height of the house from the ground to the eaves. A narrow                  
terrace will look skimpy. The shape may carry out the lines of                  
the adjacent building, but may have an irregular free form if                   
appropriate shrubs and trees are planted nearby to soften the                   
lines.                                                                          
                                                                                
The surface of your terrace should be firm and relatively                       
smooth. It should slope gently down from the house to be sure                   
water drains away from the foundation. A paved terrace will                     
provide a smooth surface for chairs and tables, and is easy to                  
clean. You may prefer the design which can be secured from                      
bricks or flagstones. If such materials are used, install them                  
on a firm, well-drained sand or tamped cinder base. A brick or                  
flagstone terrace will be much easier to clean and maintain in                  
an attractive condition if the cracks are completely mortared.                  
                                                                                
Your terrace should be designed to provide privacy for your                     
picnic or entertainment use. It should not be a part of the                     
walk or drive system around the home. A wood or masonry fence                   
will provide a partial screen. Vines or espaliered trees will                   
add interest to your fence. Shrubs or small trees may also be                   
used as a screen, but will require more space than a fence. One                 
or more trees may be located in the lawn near the terrace to                    
provide shade from the late afternoon sun.                                      
                                                                                
Plan to include accessories which will make your terrace more                   
useful. Install electric lights and weatherproof receptacles.                   
This will extend the hours of use and provide power for outdoor                 
grills, radios, or other appliances. Flowering plants or shrubs                 
in pots or tubs will make your terrace more attractive.                         
                                                                                
Provide a storage place for the grill, folding chairs and other                 
items which are used on the terrace. If space is not available                  
in a nearby basement or garage, an attractive garden shed may be                
constructed. Screen the shed with shrubs to help it to blend                    
into the landscape picture.                                                     
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
The winter squash I've stored in my basement are developing soft                
spots. The temperature is in the 50's. The squash are in bushel                 
baskets. Why aren't they keeping?                                               
                                                                                
Most winter squash should keep several months stored at 55                      
degrees F. and low humidity. If your basement is damp, you're                   
likely to have problems with mold and rot, especially with                      
squash piled on one another. Storing on open shelves, so fruit                  
do not touch one another, would be preferable. Avoid storing on                 
a cold concrete floor.                                                          
                                                                                
Storing squash with nicks, or other injuries will result in                     
storage problems. Use damaged fruits or any that got frost-nipped               
first. Store only unblemished squash. Check frequently and use                  
any that show signs of deterioration.                                           
                                                                                
 -------------                                                                  
                                                                                
When is the best time to plant pansies?  Should I plant seed or                 
set out transplants?                                                            
                                                                                
Pansy seeds for spring bloom are customarily started indoors in                 
midwinter and carefully "hardened off" by gradual exposure to the               
elements. Sow seeds in a flat and cover with 1/8" of soil. At                   
65 degrees F,  pansy seeds will take about 10 days to germinate.                
Give seedlings night temperature of 50 degrees F. for 10 to 12                  
weeks. Move to the garden 2 weeks before average last frost date.               
                                                                                
Pansy transplants can endure spring weather that is cold and                    
damp. On the first dry day in early spring, "set in" a border                   
or bed of pansy plants. Despite light frosts, rain or snow                      
showers, they will develop blooms.                                              
                                                                                
Pansies have large flowers, up to 3 inches in diameter during                   
cool weather. They decline in warm weather. First, the blossoms                 
decrease in size; then plants begin to die. Don't fight it.                     
Except where summers are short and cool you are better off                      
putting in a second planting for fall bloom.                                    
                                                                                
It's a much simpler matter to grow pansies for fall bloom because               
seeds can be sown directly in the garden during late summer. If                 
an early fall catches the young pansy plants before they bloom,                 
don't worry. Except where winters are long and extremely bitter,                
they will live over and bloom the following spring.                             
                                                                                
 -------------                                                                  
                                                                                
Do cactus bloom?  If so, how can I get mine to flower?                          
                                                                                
Most house plant cacti fail to bloom because they don't get                     
enough light. This can be easily remedied. Cacti take very well                 
to artificial lighting, so you can either grow them totally                     
dependent on fluorescent tubes or you can supplement their                      
natural light. The other major cause of flowerless cacti is the                 
lack of a dormant period. Their native homes offer them cool                    
temperatures and very little water in the winter. These plants                  
expect this period of dormancy in order to blossom when weather                 
changes in the spring. Most cacti need very cold air all winter                 
and lower light intensity to set buds. This dormancy period is a                
little tricky but is essential.                                                 
                                                                                
Beginning in October or November, place cacti on a window sill                  
between the window and the curtain. The temperature in this space               
can drop to between 40 and 50 degrees F but make sure freezing                  
does not occur. Cacti need short days or limited exposure to                    
artificial lights in order to form flower buds. In autumn, they                 
will receive this requirement naturally.                                        
                                                                                
At the same time, give the cacti a drought period by only                       
watering them when they begin to shrivel a bit (every 6 to 8                    
weeks). In March, when the days get longer and warmer, water the                
plants about every 2 weeks. Cacti will bloom in the spring.                     
                                                                                
Contrary to popular belief, cacti don't have to be very old to                  
blossom, nor do they flower only once in seven years. A mature,                 
healthy cactus flowers annually if it is treated to the right                   
conditions. Once a plant has bloomed, you can expect to enjoy its               
flowers every year. If it fails to produce blossoms twelve                      
months later, you are doing something wrong. On the other hand,                 
an immature cactus, won't bloom regardless of its treatment. Some               
take years and others need a lot of space to become fully mature                
enough to flower. Others are incapable of maturing in a container               
of any kind, but these aren't often sold as house plants.                       
Those that are available in pots or that can be purchased through               
the mail can and will flower if treated properly.                               
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
February 1987 Monthly Notes                                                     
                                                                                
Herbaceous plants                                                               
                                                                                
* Pinch off early buds from developing pansies to encourage                     
plants to branch and form more buds.                                            
                                                                                
* For cut flowers this summer, order phlox, daisies, dahlias,                   
cosmos, asters, gladiolus, and lilies.                                          
                                                                                
* Check bulbs, tubers, and corms you are storing to plant in                    
spring. Discard any that are soft or diseased.                                  
                                                                                
* Order gladiolus corms now for planting later in the spring                    
after all danger of frost has passed. Locate in full sun in                     
well-drained soil.                                                              
                                                                                
* Watch for signs of growth in early spring bulbs. Start removing               
mulch gradually when foliage is 1" high. Cloudy days are best for               
the initial exposure of the leaves as strong sunlight can burn                  
tender foliage.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Don't remove your mulch too early. A warm day may make you                    
think spring is almost here but there may be more cold weather                  
yet to come.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Design a flower bed for a shady area. Plan to try impatiens,                  
foxgloves, rosy vinca, begonias,and browallia.                                  
                                                                                
* Ageratum, begonia, marigold, and petunia seed can be started                  
indoors. Sprinkle the small seeds sparingly onto moist soil and                 
gently press them in.                                                           
                                                                                
Woody Ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* Water shrubs in your landscape if the soil is dry. Evergreen                  
plants transpire water from their leaves whenever air temperature               
is above 40 degrees F.                                                          
                                                                                
* Proper rose pruning is the key to successful summer blooms.                   
Prune roses back 25% if you want many medium-sized blooms. Prune                
back 50% if you want fewer, larger flowers. Modern roses should                 
be pruned just before the buds break dormancy after the last                    
frosts.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Check valuable trees and shrubs for silvery gray, foamy-looking               
tent caterpillar egg masses and bag worms. Remove egg cases to                  
reduce the number of destructive pests this spring.                             
                                                                                
* It is time to transplant deciduous native plants if the ground                
is not too wet or too frozen.                                                   
                                                                                
* Branches of forsythia, pussy willow, quince, spirea, and                      
dogwood can be forced for indoor bloom. Make long, slanted cuts                 
when collecting the branches and place them in a vase of water.                 
Change the water every four days.                                               
                                                                                
* Shrubs for spring planting should be ordered now. Bare root,                  
deciduous types should be planted while still dormant, about 1                  
month before the average date of last frost in your area. Hardy                 
container-grown and balled and burlapped shrubs may be planted                  
anytime except during severe cold weather.                                      
                                                                                
* Watch for signs of "heaving" among your perennials and small                  
shrubs. The freezing and thawing of the ground can force shallow-               
rooted plants out of the soil. Replant any that have been heaved                
and mulch with 2 inches of organic material to reduce soil                      
temperature fluctuation.                                                        
                                                                                
* To plant bare-rooted trees and shrubs, prune off dead or                      
damaged roots and plant in a hole large enough to accommodate                   
root spread in a natural shape. Prune top to compensate for loss                
of roots.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Wait until early summer to prune spring flowering shrubs in                   
order to get the maximum number of blossoms. If you prune now you               
are losing part of your spring show. Prune other shrubs and trees               
on warm days this month after the coldest weather is past in your               
area. In the cooler mountain areas of Virginia wait until late                  
February.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Remove honeysuckle and other weedy vines from deciduous plants                
while the plants are still leafless. It's easier to distinguish                 
between the weeds and desired plants.                                           
                                                                                
* Root pruning will enhance success of transplanting trees and                  
shrubs if you can wait until next year to move them. This spring                
use a sharp spade to cut a circle 8 inches deep around the                      
plant. (Distance from the trunk will depend on plant size.) New                 
roots form inside this circle during the growing season and can                 
be moved to the new location next spring.                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
Landscape                                                                       
                                                                                
* Plan to attend garden and landscape meeting and clinics which                 
are arranged by the extension agents in your county or city. The                
latest and best in gardening information will be presented. Call                
your local Extension office for details.                                        
                                                                                
* If bird feeding has been a favorite activity this winter, order               
trees and shrubs which provide cover and small fruits for your                  
feathered friends. Consider species such as crabapple, hawthorn,                
holly, dogwood, and pyracantha which help lure hungry birds from                
cultivated fruits, if planted on the opposite side of the yard.                 
                                                                                
* Cold winds this month should remind you to order evergreen                    
windbreaks. Some suggestions: American arborvitae, Austrian pine,               
Canadian hemlock, white spruce.                                                 
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* "Chitting" is the green-sprouting of seed potatoes for quicker                
rooting and earlier maturity (as much as 3 weeks earlier).                      
Chitting is achieved by placing seed potatoes either in full                    
sunlight or under florescent lights 3 weeks prior to planting.                  
Canadian researchers chit potatoes in outdoor trays covered with                
plastic to prevent frost damage.                                                
                                                                                
* Planning pays off in the intensively cultivated vegetable                     
garden. If you are a novice vegetable gardener, request Publicat-               
ion 836, "Guide to the Beginning Gardener" from your local                      
extension agent. If you are more experienced but have specific                  
questions, there are over 30 fact sheets available to assist you.               
                                                                                
* For an early crop, sow spinach seed in well-drained soil which                
was turned over in autumn. Cover lightly with straw and manure                  
mixture.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Check any vegetables you have in storage. Use or dispose of any               
that show signs of shriveling or rotting.                                       
                                                                                
* Incorporate any organic matter which you spread on the garden                 
during the fall as soon as the soil has thawed and drained.                     
                                                                                
* Plan on hanging a few vegetables for a convenient harvest on                  
your porch or deck. Bush cucumbers, small tomato varieties, even                
lettuce and spinach can be grown in hanging baskets. Many herbs                 
including chives, parsley, and thyme are well-suited to baskets.                
                                                                                
* If you have a sandy soil which dries out extra fast in the                    
summer, you may experiment with gardening in a depression. Pre-                 
pare soil in a hole or trough several inches below the surface of               
paths to reduce evaporation and make watering easier.                           
                                                                                
* Gardening in a raised bed improves drainage and gives an                      
earlier start in areas with cold, wet soil.                                     
                                                                                
* Work the area for early spring garden crops as soon as pos-                   
sible. Apply lime if your soil tests indicate a need. Peas,                     
onions, and Irish potatoes can be planted before March 1 in                     
eastern Virginia.                                                               
                                                                                
* If a warm weekend shows up, consider working an area in the                   
garden for early spring planting. But check the soil first; it                  
should be dry enough to crumble in your hand before you work it.                
                                                                                
* Onion seeds for transplants can be sown indoors early this                    
month.                                                                          
                                                                                
* In most of Virginia it's too early to start all but your                      
slowest growing vegetables (such as onions), but it's not too                   
early to start getting ready. Gather and wash seeding flats.                    
Treat with a 1:10 bleach solution to kill micro-organisms.                      
Collect "pots" for transplanting seedings such as styrofoam cups,               
3-inch deep bands cut from quart milk jugs, etc.                                
                                                                                
* Don't start your vegetable plants indoors too early. Six weeks                
ahead of the expected planting date is early enough for the                     
fast-growth species. Eight weeks allows enough time for the                     
slower-growing types.                                                           
                                                                                
* If your asparagus bed's pH is too low, you can apply lime or                  
wood ashes. To find out how much, test your soil through the                    
extension service. The ideal pH for asparagus is 6.5 to 8.0.                    
                                                                                
Fruits/Nuts                                                                     
                                                                                
* If you want to raise fruit in your garden, try grapes, rasp-                  
berries, or strawberries. It is much less difficult to get good                 
results with them than with tree fruits.                                        
                                                                                
* Ever wonder why apricots set small amounts of fruit in                        
Virginia? It is because of the warm days in February or March                   
that encourage the apricot to break dormancy and bloom - only to                
be followed by more freezing weather that knocks the fruit off.                 
                                                                                
* Nut and fruit trees should be planted 3-4 weeks before the last               
killing frost in the spring.                                                    
                                                                                
* One of the most important sprays for fruit trees is the dormant               
oil which should be applied on a warm day in February or March.                 
                                                                                
* Native chestnuts cannot be grown because of their susceptibil-                
ity to blight. If you would like to have chestnuts, plant the                   
grafted Chinese varieties: Crane, Meiling, Nanking, or Orrin.                   
These are fine trees for the landscape and will produce nuts                    
within a few years after they are planted.                                      
                                                                                
* Grape vine pruning can be made into attractive wreaths                        
decorated with hearts or birds nests as a valentine gift or made                
into a heart shape over a wire frame.                                           
                                                                                
* Blueberries are self-sterile. Be sure to plan for more than one               
variety to achieve pollination necessary for fruit. High bush                   
blueberries make attractive ornamental hedges with bright red                   
fall color.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Prune fruit trees and grapes in late February or early March                  
after the worst of the winter cold is passed but before spring                  
growth begins.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Fruit trees require a thorough spray program, proper pruning,                 
and good care to produce insect and disease free fruit. Give                    
thought to this before planting a backyard orchard.                             
                                                                                
* Fertilize fruit trees as soon as possible after the ground                    
thaws but before blossom time.                                                  
                                                                                
* Bring some apple, cherry, and peach boughs indoors for forcing.               
While the color of fruit blossoms are somewhat pale when forced                 
they hint of the spring show ahead.                                             
                                                                                
* Peaches grow best when maintained with an open center (no                     
central leader). Keep three or four strong scaffold branches                    
evenly distributed around the trunk. Limbs which branch out at a                
60 degree angle are preferred, but spreaders can be used to widen               
narrow crotch angles.                                                           
                                                                                
* Apple and pear trees are best trained with a modified central                 
leader. Prune to maintain a pyramidal shape--wide at the bottom,                
gradually tapering toward the top. Order publication 426-841 for                
complete instructions.                                                          
                                                                                
* Prune fruit trees and shade trees as buds begin to swell. For                 
disease and insect control, cut out dead wood and dispose of the                
prunings.                                                                       
                                                                                
Indoor plants                                                                   
                                                                                
* Wash your house plants and your windows occasionally to get the               
maximum light to the leaves. Showers for your plants will also                  
help reduce pests such as spider mites.                                         
                                                                                
* Citrus plants grown from seeds generally will not produce                     
flowers or fruit, but they will have attractive shiny-leaved                    
foliage.                                                                        
                                                                                
* As a mid-winter project grow plants from fruit seeds. Oranges,                
grapefruits, lemons, tangerines, and pomegranates may have viable               
seed. Try germinating them in a light potting soil mixture                      
containing half peat moss. Keep seeds well watered and in a warm                
location. If seedlings fail to appear in six weeks, try again.                  
                                                                                
* Tired of Christmas poinsettia? Don't feel guilty if you toss it               
out. It, like the Christmas tree, has its seasonal symbolism that               
many of us prefer to keep intact.                                               
                                                                                
Tools and equipment (includes container)                                        
                                                                                
* Kerosene heaters in a small home greenhouse may damage plants                 
from the fumes produced.                                                        
                                                                                
* Repair and paint window boxes, lawn furniture, tools and other                
items in preparation for outdoor gardening and recreational use.                
                                                                                
* Make labels for this spring's garden. Plastic milk jugs or                    
bleach bottles cut in strips 1 inch by 6 or 7 work well. Use                    
permanent ink markers to write on them.                                         
                                                                                
* Start building up your supply of gardening aids such as plastic               
milk jugs for hot caps and orange juice cans to make guards to                  
stop cut worms.                                                                 
                                                                                
* On mild, sunny days be sure to ventilate cold frames and green-               
houses.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Avoid overcrowding in the greenhouse and hotbed. Crowding can                 
lead to trouble in the middle of winter when the ventilators are                
rarely opened. Still, damp air encourages fungus disease infec-                 
tion, and the soft new growth made by the plants invites aphid                  
infestation--particularly when crowding occurs.                                 
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* Pressed flowers collected last summer or pictures from your old               
garden catalogs can be used to add a romantic floral touch to an                
old-fashioned valentine.                                                        
                                                                                
* Use some of the coldest days of February to sit by a fire and                 
read a good gardening book. It will give you ideas and inspira-                 
tion for the spring.                                                            
                                                                                
Herbs                                                                           
                                                                                
* For those who enjoy growing annual herbs but are frustrated by                
the number of extra seed in each packet, make a thoughtful gift                 
for friends or co-workers. On a card draw a design for a small                  
herb garden, then divide the seed from the packet into small                    
envelopes such as a stamp collectors use. Tape the seed to the                  
garden plan and offer a few cultural hints.                                     
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
February 1987 Press Releases                                                    
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by Virginia Nathan, Extension               
Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Home Horti-                 
culture, and Jim Roberts, Extension Specialist, Entomology. The                 
Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed for agent                  
use in preparing radio and newspaper features and other                         
educational programs.                                                           
                                                                                
Benefits and Value of Insects     46 lines                                      
Selecting Pruning Tools           55 lines                                      
Pruning Young Shade Trees         47 lines                                      
Pruning Heavy Side Branches       38 lines                                      
Starting Seed Indoors             65 lines                                      
                                                                                
 ----------------------------------------------------------------               
                                                                                
Benefit and Value of Insects                                                    
                                                                                
Insects need to be studied carefully to distinguish the benefici-               
al from the harmful. People have often gone to great trouble and                
expense to destroy quantities of insects, only to learn later                   
that the insect destroyed was not only harmless but was actually                
engaged in saving their crops by eating destructive insects. Most               
entomologists have had correspondents send in the larvae of lady                
beetles with the complaint that they were injuring plants; at the               
same time overlooking the smaller aphids which were causing the                 
injury and which these larvae were continually devouring.                       
                                                                                
Insects are beneficial to the gardener in several ways:                         
                                                                                
1. Insects aid in the production of fruits, seeds, vegetables,and               
flowers, by pollinizing the blossoms. Most common fruits are                    
pollinized by insects. Melons, squash, and many other vegetables                
require insects to carry their pollen before fruits set. Many                   
ornamental plants, both in the greenhouse and out of doors, are                 
pollinated by insects for example, chrysanthemums, iris, orchids,               
and yucca.                                                                      
                                                                                
2. Parasitic insects destroy other injurious insects by living on               
or in their bodies and their eggs. Insects also act as predators,               
capturing and devouring other insects.                                          
                                                                                
3. Insects destroy various weeds in the same ways that they                     
injure crop plants.                                                             
                                                                                
4. Insects improve the physical condition of the soil and promote               
its fertility by burrowing throughout the surface layer. Also,                  
the dead bodies and droppings of the insects serve as fertilizer.               
                                                                                
5. Insects perform a valuable service as scavengers by devouring                
the bodies of dead animals and plants and by burying carcasses                  
and dung.                                                                       
                                                                                
Many of the benefits from insects enumerated above, although                    
genuine, are insignificant compared with the good that insects do               
fighting among themselves. There is no doubt that the greatest                  
single factor in keeping plant-feeding insects from overwhelming                
the rest of the world is that they are fed upon by other insects.               
It is easy to see how the industry of insects and their devotion                
to purpose, when coupled with almost unlimited numbers, can                     
benefit us when they seek and devour myriads of pests scattered                 
over a farm or a forest.                                                        
Selecting Pruning Tools                                                        
                                                                                
Hand pruning shears are good for branches up to one-half inch in                
diameter. Attempting to cut larger branches risks making a poor                 
cut and/or ruining the shears. There are two styles of hand                     
shears: 1) the scissor action; and 2) the anvil cut. In the                     
first, a thin, sharp blade slides closely past a thicker but also               
sharp blade. In the second style, a sharpened blade cuts against                
a broad, flat blade. The first one usually costs more, but makes                
cleaner, closer cuts.                                                           
                                                                                
Lopping shears have long handles and are operated with both                     
hands. Even the cheapest can cut one-half inch diameter material.               
The better ones can slice through branches of two inches or more,               
depending on species and condition (e.g., pin oak is tougher than               
linden and dead wood is tougher, until decay sets in, than live                 
wood).                                                                          
                                                                                
Pole pruners have a cutter with one hooked blade above and a                    
cutting blade beneath. The cutter is on a pole and is operated by               
a lanyard pulled downward. The poles can either be in sections,                 
that fit together or telescoping and can be made of several                     
materials. Wooden poles are heavy. Aluminum poles are light but                 
can conduct electricity if they touch an overhead wire. Fiber-                  
glass, or some type of plastic compound is probably the best                    
answer. Poles can be fitted with saws, but these usually are very               
frustrating to use. Use of pole pruners can be dangerous, as                    
material cut overhead can fall on the operator unless it hangs up               
in other branches. The user should exercise caution and wear head               
and eye protection.                                                             
                                                                                
Manual hedge shears have long, flat blades and relatively short                 
handles, one for each hand. Heavy duty shears with one serrated                 
blade are good for difficult jobs. Power hedge shears are also                  
available. The most common for home use are electric models.                    
                                                                                
There are many makes and models of hand pruning saws. Fineness of               
cutting edge is measured in points (teeth per inch). An 8 point                 
saw is for delicate, close work on small shrubs and trees.                      
Average saws are about 5 1/2 to 6 points, while 4 1/2 point saws                
are for fairly heavy limbs. Folding saws either require a                       
screwdriver (for a slotted-head holding screw) or will have a                   
protruding wingnut which can scar the trunk when a limb is cut.                 
If the saw suddenly folds while in use the operator's fingers can               
be damaged. A fixed blade saw with a leather scabbard is safer.                 
Blades can be either straight or curved. Many prefer a curved                   
blade that cuts on the draw stroke. A double-edged saw has fine                 
teeth on one side, coarse on the other. These are difficult to                  
use in densely branched plants. Bow saws are good only where no                 
obstruction exists for a foot or more above the area to be cut.                 
                                                                                
Chain saws come in a variety of sizes, both gas and electric.                   
However, in general, chain saws are not appropriate for pruning                 
of live plant material. They are better suited to tree removal                  
and firewood cutting.                                                           
                                                                                
Pruning Young Shade Trees                                                       
                                                                                
The initial pruning of shade trees consists of removing broken,or               
crossing branches. The rule of pruning away one-third of the top                
growth at transplanting to compensate for root loss is not                      
necessary for properly pruned nursery grown plants. Excessive                   
pruning at transplanting, according to research, reduces plant                  
size and does not aid in plant survival.                                        
                                                                                
The central leader of an ornamental tree should not be pruned,                  
except in the few cases when low-branched trees or multiple-                    
stemmed plants are desired. Trees with a central leader such as                 
linden, sweet gum, or pin oak may need little or no pruning                     
except to eliminate branches competing with the central leader;                 
these should be shortened. Some pruning may be necessary to                     
maintain desired shape and shorten extra-vigorous shoots.                       
                                                                                
The height of the lowest branch can be from a few inches above                  
the ground for screening or windbreaks, to seven to twelve feet                 
or more above the ground as needed near a street or patio. The                  
removal of lower limbs is usually done over a period of years                   
beginning in the nursery and continuing for several years after                 
transplanting until the desired clearance is reached.                           
                                                                                
For greatest strength, branches selected for permanent scaffolds                
must have a wide angle of attachment with the trunk. Branch                     
angles of less than 30 degrees from the main trunk result in a                  
high percentage of breakage while those between 60 and 70 degrees               
have a small breakage rate. However, branch angles greater than                 
70 degrees encourage suckers or small weak branches to sprout                   
along the top edge of the scaffold branch.                                      
                                                                                
Vertical branch spacing and radial branch distribution are                      
important. Major scaffold branches of shade trees should be                     
spaced at least eight inches and preferably twenty to twenty-four               
inches apart vertically. Closely spaced scaffolds will have fewer               
lateral branches. The result will be long, thin branches with                   
poor structural strength. Radial branch distribution should allow               
five to seven scaffolds to fill the circle of space around a                    
trunk. Radial spacing prevents one limb from overshadowing                      
another, which in turn reduces competition for light and                        
nutrients. Remove or prune shoots that are too low, too close, or               
too vigorous in relation to the leader and branches selected to                 
become the scaffold branches. Most nursery grown trees have been                
pruned with these considerations in mind. However, it is wise to                
examine the plant and correct for appropriate vertical and radial               
spacing.                                                                        
Pruning Heavy Side Branches                                                    
                                                                                
According to Dr. Alex Shigo, plant pathologist, USDA Forest                     
Service, thick, heavy branches should be removed flush to the                   
collar at the base of the branch, not flush with the trunk.                     
                                                                                
The collar is an area of tissue that contains a chemically                      
protective zone. In the natural decay of a dead branch, when the                
decay advancing downward meets the internal protected zone, an                  
area of very strong wood meets an area of very weak wood. The                   
branch then falls away at this point leaving a small zone of                    
decayed wood within the collar. The decay is walled off in the                  
collar. This is the natural shedding process when all goes                      
according to nature's plan. When the collar is removed, the                     
protective zone is removed, causing a serious trunk wound. Wood-                
decay fungi can then easily infect the trunk. If the pruned                     
branch is living, removal of the collar at the base still causes                
injury.                                                                         
                                                                                
For over half a century the recommendations for pruning have been               
to flush-cut and paint. These recommendations have no basis in                  
scientific fact. The flush-cut increases the tree injury which                  
the paint hides. The paint is primarily cosmetic, a psychological               
treatment for the person doing the pruning, to show that he or                  
she has done something to "help" the tree. In fact, paints and                  
wound dressings can trap moisture and increase disease problems.                
                                                                                
When cutting branches over 1.5" in diameter, use a 3-part cut to                
avoid damage to the bark of the tree's trunk. This is                           
accomplished by first sawing an undercut from the bottom of the                 
branch about six to twelve inches out from the trunk and about                  
1/3 of the way through the branch. Next, make a second cut from                 
the top, about three inches further out from the undercut, until                
the branch falls away. The resulting stub can then be cut back to               
the collar of the branch. If there is danger of the branch                      
damaging other limbs below, or objects on the ground, it must be                
properly roped and supported, then carefully lowered to the                     
ground after the second cut.                                                    
Starting Seed Indoors                                                          
                                                                                
The proper time for sowing seeds for transplants depends upon                   
when plants may safely be moved outdoors in your area. This                     
period may range from 4 to 12 weeks prior to transplanting                      
depending upon the speed of germination, the rate of growth, and                
the cultural conditions provided. A common mistake is to sow                    
seed too early and then attempt to hold the seedlings back under                
poor light or improper temperature ranges. This usually results                 
in tall, weak, and spindly plants which do not perform well in                  
the garden.                                                                     
                                                                                
After selecting a container, fill it to within 3/4 of an inch                   
from the top with moistened medium. For very small seeds, at                    
least the top 1/4 inch should be of a fine, screened mix or a                   
layer of vermiculite. Firm the medium at the corners and edges                  
with your fingers or a block of wood to provide a uniform, flat                 
surface. For medium-to-large seeds, make furrows about 1 to 2                   
inches apart and 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch deep across the surface of               
the container using a narrow board or pot label. By sowing in                   
rows, good light and air movement results and, if damping off                   
fungus appears, there is less chance of it spreading. Sow the                   
seeds thinly and uniformly in the rows by gently tapping the                    
packet of seed as it is moved along the row. Lightly cover the                  
seed with dry vermiculite or sifted medium if they require                      
darkness for germination. A suitable planting depth is usually                  
about twice the diameter of the seed.                                           
                                                                                
Do not plant seeds too deeply. Extremely fine seed such as                      
petunia, begonia and snapdragon are not covered but lightly                     
pressed into the medium or watered in with a fine mist spray. If                
these seeds are broadcast, strive for a uniform stand by sowing                 
half the seeds in one direction, then sowing the remaining seed                 
at a right angle to the first.                                                  
                                                                                
Large seeds are frequently sown into a small container or cell                  
pack which eliminates the need for early transplanting. Sow 2 or                
3 seeds per unit and thin to allow the strongest seedling to                    
grow.                                                                           
                                                                                
After the seed has been sown, moisten the planting mix                          
thoroughly. Use a fine mist or place the containers in a pan or                 
tray which has about 1 inch of warm water in the bottom. Avoid                  
splashing or excessive flooding which might displace small                      
seeds. When the planting mix is saturated, set the container                    
aside to drain. The soil should be moist but not wet.                           
                                                                                
To maintain moisture, slip the whole flat or pot into a clear                   
plastic bag after the initial watering. The plastic should be at                
least 1-1 1/2 inches from the soil. Keep the container out of                   
direct sunlight otherwise the temperature may rise to a point                   
harmful to the seeds. Many home gardeners cover their flats with                
panes of glass instead of using a plastic sleeve. Be sure to                    
remove the plastic bag or glass cover as soon as the first                      
seedlings appear. Surface watering can then be practiced if care                
and good judgement are used.                                                    
                                                                                
Seedlings must receive bright light after germination. Place them               
in a window facing south, if possible. If a large, bright window                
is not available, place the seedlings under a fluorescent                       
light. Use two 40-watt fluorescent tubes one cool white and one                 
warm white or special plant growth lamps. Position the plants 6                 
inches from the tubes and keep the lights on about 16 hours each                
day. As the seedlings grow, the lights should be raised. Tempera-               
tures of 55 to 60 degree F at night and 65 to 70 degree F during                
the day will prevent soft, leggy growth and minimize disease                    
troubles.                                                                       
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
February 1987  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                               
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan and J. T. Foley,                  
Horticulture Extension Technicians, and Diane Relf, Extension                   
Specialist Home Horticulture, working with Jim Roberts,                         
Department of Entomology. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has                
been developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                   
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
Training grapes                   52 Lines                                      
Hints for the First Garden        41 Lines                                      
Pruning Vines and Ground Covers   18 lines                                      
Cloches                           25 lines                                      
Dormant Oil                       13 lines                                      
Annuals vs. Perennials            16 lines                                      
Texture vs. Structure of Soil     56 lines                                      
Value of a Garden                 39 lines                                      
Defining Biennial                 21 lines                                      
Different Types of Hoes           32 lines                                      
_____________                                                                   
                                                                                
My grape vine is enormous but not very productive. Why?                         
                                                                                
For grapes to be most productive, they must be trained to a                     
definite system and pruned rather severely. There are several                   
training systems used. The two most common for the home garden                  
are the vertical trellis and the overhead arbor. Both of these                  
are satisfactory in the home planting if kept well pruned.                      
                                                                                
One of the many variations of the vertical trellis, the single                  
trunk, four-arm Kniffin system is the most popular. Posts are set               
fifteen to twenty feet apart and extend five feet above the                     
ground. Two wires are stretched between the posts, the lower                    
being about two and a half feet above the ground and the upper                  
wire, at the top of the posts. Set between the posts, the vine is               
trained to a single trunk with four semipermanent arms, each cut                
back to six to ten inches in length. One arm is trained in each                 
direction on the lower wire.                                                    
                                                                                
During annual winter pruning, one cane is saved from those that                 
grew from near the base of each arm the previous summer. This                   
cane is cut back to about ten buds. The fruit in the coming                     
season is borne on shoots developing from those buds. Select                    
another cane from each arm, preferably one that grew near the                   
trunk, and cut it back to a short stub having two buds. This is a               
renewal spur. It should grow vigorously in the spring and be the                
new fruiting cane selected the following winter. All other growth               
on the vine should be removed. This leaves four fruiting canes,                 
one on each arm with eight to ten buds each, and four renewal                   
spurs, one on each arm cut back to two buds each.                               
                                                                                
The same training and pruning techniques may be effectively used                
in training grapes to the arbor system. The only difference is                  
that the wires supporting the arms are placed overhead and                      
parallel with each other instead of in a horizontal position.                   
Overhead wires are usually placed six to seven feet above the                   
ground.                                                                         
                                                                                
If an arm dies or for any reason needs to be replaced, choose the               
largest cane that has grown from the trunk near the base of the                 
dead arm and train it to the trellis wire. To renew the trunk,                  
train a strong shoot from the base of the old trunk to the                      
trellis as though it were the cane of a new vine. Establish the                 
arms in the same manner as for a new vine, and cut off the old                  
trunk.                                                                          
                                                                                
Pruning may be done anytime after the vines become dormant. In                  
areas where there is danger of winter injury, pruning may be                    
delayed until early spring. Vines pruned very late may bleed                    
excessively, but there is no evidence that this is permanently                  
injurious.                                                                      
                                                                                
For more information and illustrations, see publication 426-840,                
"Planning the Small Fruit Garden."                                              
_____________                                                                   
                                                                                
I will have my first garden this spring. Could you give me some                 
hints for success?                                                              
                                                                                
Plan your garden on paper first. Draw a map showing arrangement                 
and spacing of crops. If you wish to keep the garden growing all                
season, you may need a spring, summer, and fall garden plan.                    
(See Publication 426-335, Intensive Gardening Methods.) Order                   
seeds by January or February. Some plants may be started indoors                
as early as mid-February.                                                       
                                                                                
In your plan, place tall and trellised crops on the north side of               
the garden so they won't shade the shorter vegetables. Group                    
plants by length of growing period. Plant spring crops together                 
so that later crops can be planted in these areas when the early                
crops mature. Consider length of harvest as well as time to                     
maturity. Place perennial crops to the side of the garden where                 
they will not be disturbed by annual tillage.                                   
                                                                                
Vegetables grow best in a level area with loose, well-drained                   
soil, and at least six hours of sun (8-10 hours is ideal). Use                  
contour rows or terraces on sloped or hillside sites to avoid                   
erosion. South-facing slopes are warmer and less subject to                     
damaging frosts. Avoid placing the garden in low spots, at the                  
base of a hill, or at the foot of a slope bordered by a solid                   
fence. Such areas are slow to warm up in the spring and frost                   
settles in these places since cold air naturally drains into low                
areas. If there is a creek nearby, the water table may be very                  
high or the area subject to flooding.                                           
                                                                                
Choose a spot near your home so it is convenient to work in the                 
garden when you have a few minutes. Avoid windy locations; if you               
must plant in a windy spot, build or grow a windbreak. Locate                   
near a good and easily accessible supply of water if possible.                  
Avoid planting near trees and shrubs; they compete for nutrients                
and water, and may cause excessive shading. Sites too near                      
building may result in plants not receiving enough sunlight.                    
Observe shading patterns through the growing season if possible                 
before starting the garden. If you have a shaded area you wish to               
use anyway, plant it in shade-tolerant crops. Increase effective                
light if needed by providing reflective surfaces around plants.                 
                                                                                
Try not to plant related vegetables in exactly the same location                
in the garden more often than once in three years. Rotation                     
prevents the buildup of insects and disease. Use old plans as                   
guides for rotating crops.                                                      
_____________                                                                   
                                                                                
Do vines and ground covers require pruning?                                     
                                                                                
The pruning of ornamental vines is similar to the pruning of                    
ornamental shrubs. Flowering vines are pruned according to flower               
production; those that flower on new wood are pruned before new                 
growth begins, those that flower on last season's growth are                    
pruned immediately after flowering. Vines that are grown for                    
foliage are pruned to control growth and direction. Timing is                   
less critical for flowering vines.                                              
                                                                                
Ground cover plants require very little pruning. Dead or damaged                
stems should be removed whenever observed. Some trailing ground                 
covers, such as English ivy, may need pruning to prevent en-                    
croachment on lawn areas or other plants. With liriope, a                       
grass-like ground cover, appearance is improved by an annual                    
pruning. Before new leaves are one inch tall in each clump,                     
remove the dead leaves from the previous year. For large liriope                
plantings a lawnmower set to cut above the new leaf tips will                   
speed this early spring job.                                                    
_____________                                                                   
                                                                                
What are cloches and how are they used?                                         
                                                                                
The cloche (pronounced klosh) was originally a bell-shaped glass                
jar set over delicate plants to protect them from the elements.                 
The definition has expanded; however, to include many types of                  
portable structures which shelter plants from drying winds and                  
cold air.                                                                       
                                                                                
The idea is to provide a greenhouse-like atmosphere for seeds and               
small plants in order to get an early start on the season, or to                
extend the fall garden as long as possible. Cloches are set out                 
over individual plants or are made into tunnels for whole rows.                 
They trap solar radiation and moisture evaporating from the soil                
and plants. The hotkap and the ubiquitous cut-off plastic jug are               
simple forms. More elaborate ones are fiber glass tunnels,                      
special plastic cloches or row covers with slits in them to allow               
for some ventilation, and panes of glass connected by specially                 
designed hinges to form a tent. There are a variety of forms on                 
the market now, some of which work and some which don't, and some               
are easily constructed from materials around the home.                          
                                                                                
Cloches are generally lightweight, portable and reusable. It is                 
preferable to have a design which can be closed completely at                   
night to prevent frost damage and opened or completely removed                  
during the day for good air circulation. Cloches should be                      
anchored or heavy enough that they don't blow away.                             
_____________                                                                   
                                                                                
What is dormant oil? What pests will it control on apples and                   
pears? How does dormant oil spray kill insects, and when should                 
it be applied to fruit trees?                                                   
                                                                                
Dormant oil is a highly refined petroleum oil used primarily to                 
control scale insects and the overwintering eggs of red spider                  
mites and aphids. It is diluted with water prior to spraying. The               
oil coating suffocates these pests as well as their eggs. Insects               
cannot become resistant to it.                                                  
                                                                                
Dormant oil should be applied to fruit trees in early spring                    
while they are dormant but just prior to bud swell. A dormant oil               
spray one week before bud break is most effective. The entire                   
tree should be covered with a layer of the oil.                                 
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
I have some flowers that come back every year but I am told that                
they are annuals not perennials. Can you please explain?                        
                                                                                
Plants are classified by the number of growing seasons required                 
to complete a life cycle. Annuals pass through their entire life                
cycle from seed germination to seed production in one growing                   
season, and then die.                                                           
                                                                                
Perennial plants live for many years and after reaching maturity                
typically produce flowers and seeds each year. Perennials are                   
classified as herbaceous if the top dies back to the ground each                
winter and new stems grow from the roots each spring. They are                  
classified as woody if the top persists, as in shrubs or trees.                 
                                                                                
Some annuals will self seed and come back year after year, giving               
the impression that the original plant is surviving and is                      
therefore perennial.                                                            
_____________                                                                   
                                                                                
How can I change the texture of my heavy clay soil?                             
                                                                                
The term texture refers to the relative amount of different size                
soil particles, or the fineness or coarseness of the mineral                    
particles in the soil.                                                          
                                                                                
The coarser mineral particles of the soil are called sand. These                
particles vary in size. Most sand particles can be seen without a               
magnifying glass. All feel rough when rubbed between the thumb                  
and fingers. Relatively fine soil particles that feel smooth and                
floury are called silt. When wet, silt feels smooth but is not                  
slick or sticky. When dry, it is smooth and if pressed between                  
the thumb and finger will retain the imprint. Silt particles are                
so fine that they cannot usually be seen by the unaided eye.                    
Clays are the finest soil particles. Clay particles can be seen                 
only with the aid of a powerful electron microscope. They feel                  
extremely smooth when dry, and become slick and sticky when                     
wet. Clay will hold the form into which it is molded. Loam is a                 
textural class of soils that has moderate amounts of sand, silts                
and clay. Loam contains varying proportions of these ranging from               
7-27% clay, 28-50% silt and approximately 50% sand.                             
                                                                                
Texture of soil influences many different characteristics. A                    
brief comparison between sandy and clay soils will highlight                    
these points. Coarse-textured or sandy soils allow water to enter               
at a faster rate than fine-textured or clayey soils and to move                 
more freely in the soil. In addition, the relatively low water                  
capacity and the large amount of air present in sandy soils                     
allows them to warm up faster than fine-textured soils. Sandy                   
soils are also more easily tilled. They are best suited for the                 
production of special crops such as vegetables and fruits.                      
                                                                                
Unfortunately, texture of a clay soil is a characteristic that                  
can only be changed by the addition of great quantities of sand.                
A better approach is to change the structure of the soil.                       
                                                                                
Soil particles are grouped together in the formation processes to               
form structural pieces called aggregates. In surface soil the                   
structure will usually be granular unless it is disrupted. The                  
soil aggregates will be rounded and vary in size from very small                
shot to large pea. If organic matter content is low and if the                  
soil has been under continuous cultivation, the soil structure                  
may be quite indistinct.                                                        
                                                                                
Structure of the soil is closely related to air and water                       
movement within it. Good structure allows favorable movement of                 
air and water, while poor or no structure slows down this                       
movement. Water can enter a surface soil that has granular                      
structure more rapidly than one that has little structure. Since                
plant roots move through the same channels in the soil as air and               
water, good structure allows extensive root development while                   
poor structure discourages it.                                                  
                                                                                
Good structure of the surface soil is promoted by incorporating                 
organic matter such as compost or leaf mold, and by working the                 
soil when its moisture conditions are correct. Never work the                   
soil when it is wet.                                                            
_____________                                                                   
                                                                                
What crops should I grow to make my gardening activities most                   
economical?                                                                     
                                                                                
It is difficult to determine the economic value of crops grown in               
the vegetable garden due to the different lengths of time they                  
require for maturity and harvest, the availability of varieties                 
and vegetable types not generally found in the marketplace, and                 
the lack of comparison values for vegetables that are not                       
acceptable by commercial standards (cracked tomatoes, crooked                   
cucumbers, etc.), but which are perfectly usable by the home                    
gardener. Nevertheless, several studies have attempted to                       
determine which crops bring the most value per square foot of                   
garden space, partly to aid small-space gardeners in making                     
decisions about what to plant. Of course, if no one in the family               
likes beets, there is no point in growing them just because they                
are economically valuable, but this list may help you determine                 
which vegetables to plant and which to buy. Perennial crops are                 
not on the list below because each of the studies was on a                      
one-season basis. But asparagus, rhubarb, horseradish and other                 
perennial crops do also have considerable economic worth.                       
Miniature varieties or trellising may also increase value per                   
square foot.                                                                    
                                                                                
The following list gives the top 15 vegetables in economic value                
based on several studies:                                                       
                                                                                
Tomatoes			     	Beets        Onions storage bulbs                              
Green bunching onions	     Carrots      Beans (pole,bush)                       
Leaf lettuce			     Cucumbers    Swiss chard                                    
Turnip (greens + roots)	     Peppers      Head lettuce                          
Summer squash			     Broccoli     Edible podded peas	                           
                                                                                
Values are based on pounds produced per square foot, retail value               
per pound at harvest time, and length of time in the garden.                    
                                                                                
You might also like to know the low value crops not recommended                 
for small gardens: corn,	 winter squash, melons, pumpkins.                      
___________                                                                     
                                                                                
How can you tell if a flower is biennial?                                       
                                                                                
Biennials are plants which start from seeds, then produce                       
vegetative structures and food storage organs the first season.                 
During the first winter a hardy evergreen rosette of basal leaves               
persists. During the second season, flowers, fruit and seed                     
develop to complete the life cycle. The plant then dies. Carrots,               
beets, cabbage, celery, and onions are biennial plants which                    
produce seed by flowers that develop the second year of                         
growth. Hollyhock Canterbury bells , and Sweet William are                      
biennials which are commonly grown for their attractive flowers.                
                                                                                
Plants which typically develop as biennials may in some cases                   
complete the cycle of growth from seed germination to seed                      
production in only one growing season. This situation occurs when               
drought, variation in temperature, or other climatic conditions                 
cause the plant to pass through the equivalent of two growing                   
seasons physiologically, in a single growing season. This pheno-                
menon is referred to as bolting.                                                
                                                                                
Some biennials such as foxglove have been bred to flower in one                 
year.                                                                           
__________                                                                      
                                                                                
In recent years, hoes have become available in a number of                      
different shapes. How do you use all these types?                               
                                                                                
A hoe is essential in any garden for preparing the seed bed,                    
removing weeds, and breaking up encrusted soil. Several different               
hoe styles are available. Probably the most commonly used hoe is                
the square-bladed hoe, which lends itself well to many garden                   
tasks. The pointed hoe with a heart shaped blade is light weight                
and useful for opening seed furrows and cultivating between                     
plants. There are several types of scuffle hoes which can be                    
useful in the garden. Pushing and pulling these just under the                  
soil surface eliminates newly emerging weeds and breaks up any                  
crust on the soil surface. This type of hoe is most easily used on              
soil which is not compacted, since the blades are relatively thin               
and lack the clod breaking capabilities of a heavier hoe; it is                 
also less effective in cases where weeds have gotten a good start.              
                                                                                
The hula or action hoe is a type of scuffle hoe which is very                   
light weight and maneuverable. There are other types of scuffle                 
hoes which are somewhat more sturdy, and are used with a pushing                
motion rather than pushing and pulling. Among these is the "Swoe"               
which at first glance favors a golf club. The blade of this hoe                 
has three sharpened sides which enable it to cut forward, backward              
or sideways, a unique approach in garden tools. Another of the                  
scuffle hoes has a diamond shaped head with four sharpened sides.               
This hoe tapers from 2 inches at the center attachment to 1/2 inch              
width at the tips. It works especially well when close cultivation              
is needed between small plants.                                                 
                                                                                
A last consideration is an imported English hoe which has a                     
characteristic design. Picture a long handled trowel with a "V"                 
section removed where the point would normally be. This allows the              
removal of rose suckers or stubborn weeds. Since the blade is                   
center mounted, a cutting edge is also on the rear of the blade                 
where a trowel handle is usually mounted. This edge is shaped like              
a "W" to be used in a pulling motion for weeds behind plants. For               
illustrations see tool catalogs or Crockett's Tool Shed.                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
January Notes                                                                   
                                                                                
* Give your holiday gift plants the best care so you can retain                 
their original, attractive appearance. Keep them cool with a                    
temperature of 70 degrees F. during the day and 60 degrees at                   
night. Set the pots on crushed stone or gravel in a pan of water                
to maintain higher humidity.                                                    
                                                                                
* Recycle your holiday decorations. Greenery used in ornaments                  
can be used again in the garden. Wreaths and branches stripped                  
from Christmas trees make excellent mulch for protecting newly                  
planted ornamentals. Remove the material in the spring and                      
compost it.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Move garden ornaments such as urns or jars into the garage                    
or basement to prevent damage during the cold winter season.                    
                                                                                
* Keep all outdoor containers turned upside down during the                     
winter so water will not collect in them and freeze causing                     
breakage. If containers are too large to move, cover them with                  
wood or other sturdy material to prevent water collection.                      
                                                                                
* Avoid heavy traffic on the dormant lawn. Dry grass is easily                  
broken and the crown of the plant may be severely damaged or                    
killed.                                                                         
                                                                                
* When salt is needed to melt ice on walks and drives, spread                   
it carefully to avoid severe damage to nearby lawns and shrubs.                 
Damage to needle-type evergreens will be evident next spring by                 
copper and yellow tones. Damaged deciduous plants will have                     
bronze or reddish leaves.                                                       
                                                                                
* Turn and prune house plants regularly to keep them shapely.                   
Pinch back the stems of house plants as needed to promote                       
balanced growth.                                                                
                                                                                
* During the winter most houses are too dry for house plants.                   
Humidity may be increased by placing plants on trays lined with                 
pebbles and filled with water to within one half inch of the base               
of the pot. If you heat with wood, keep a pot of water on the                   
stove. The added moisture will be healthier for you as well as                  
your plants.                                                                    
                                                                                
* If you have some time this winter, paint the handles of garden                
tools red. This will preserve the wood and make the tools easier                
to locate next summer when you lay them down in the garden or                   
on the lawn.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Overhaul your garden sprayer, inspect leather washers and                     
plunger and replace any worn parts (after thoroughly oiling                     
new leather). It may be difficult to locate some exact parts                    
for your model sprayer. By starting now, you'll have them by                    
gardening season.                                                               
                                                                                
* When reviewing your garden catalogs for new varieties to try,                 
an important consideration is improved insect and/or disease                    
resistance over older plants. Watch also for drought-tolerant                   
plants.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Don't let snow build up on the branches of your shrubs as                     
the weight will distort and break them. Use care in brushing                    
it off to avoid damage.                                                         
                                                                                
* House plants and holidy gift plants should not be placed on                   
top of the television. It is too warm a location and in most                    
homes too far from windows to provide adequate light.                           
                                                                                
* Check all of your plants closely for insect infestations. Pests               
are sometimes brought in on gift plants and those that were                     
present in small numbers before the holidays, may have multiplied               
under neglect.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Plan your herbaceous flower beds now so you can make changes                  
early in the spring. Many perennials will need to be divided.                   
Perhaps you can arrange to trade with friends and neighbors.                    
Designate location in the bed for summer flowering annuals to                   
fill in color between your spring perennials and fall chrysanthe-               
mums.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Review your vegetable garden plans. Perhaps a smaller garden                  
with fewer weeds and insects will give you more produce.                        
                                                                                
* Start planning now for next year's holiday gifts and decora-                  
tions. Record those items you wished you had this year (dried                   
flowers, herbs, pickles and preserves) and make sure you plant                  
them for next year.                                                             
                                                                                
* Before ordering your spring seed, do a "rag doll" germination                 
test on those seeds left over from last year's order. Roll 10                   
or 20 seeds in a damp paper towel, keep moist in a warm location.               
On most crops, germination of viable seed will occur within a                   
week. If half the seeds germinate and you have enough left to                   
plant twice as many as you usually do, you should get an adequate               
crop. Otherwise, order more seed. It's a small investment to                    
insure success.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Don't wait too late in the winter to order seed. Many varieties               
sell out early.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Remember, trees and shrubs have an economic value. If killed                  
or damaged by ice or accident, they may be covered by homeowner's               
insurance or they may be a legitimate loss on your taxes.                       
                                                                                
* Do-it-yourself landscaping projects have a high priority these                
days. They provide savings in more ways than most people realize:               
(1) they enhance property value; (2) they can reduce the cost                   
of heating and cooling bills; (3) they save the actual out-of-                  
pocket expense of contracting to have the job done; (4) they                    
provide indirect savings on taxes (for example, someone in the                  
30% tax bracket would have to earn $430 to have enough after-tax                
cash to pay $300 for a job done around the home); (5) home                      
landscaping is great preventative therapy and improves one's                    
mental health.                                                                  
                                                                                
* For an interesting ornamental plant and a culinary addition,                  
buy a plump unshriveled ginger root at the grocery store and                    
plant in a light sandy soil just under the surface in a 6" to 8"                
pot. Place in a warm sunny window and keep damp until shoots                    
appear. Increase water and fertilize monthly with high phos-                    
phorus. Harvest your crop in about 8 months, saving a piece to                  
replant.                                                                        
                                                                                
* For tips on being a smart mail-order shopper and a list of                    
95 mail-order nurseries, send a self-addressed business sized                   
envelope with 37 cents postage to The Complete Guide to Gardening               
by Mail, Mail Order Association of Nurserymen, Inc., 210 Cart-                  
wright Blvd., Massapequa Park, NY 11762.                                        
                                                                                
* Look at your landscape. Do you need evergreens to protect                     
your privacy, reduce street noise, block the glare of street                    
lights? Order plants now and in February for March planning.                    
                                                                                
* In warmer parts of the state, tuberous begonias and caladiums                 
can be started indoors now. In mountain areas, start next                       
month. Set root starts in pots or shallow boxes of rich soil (1/3               
sand, 1/3 peat, 1/3 loam). Cover with one inch of mixture. Keep                 
moist, not wet, in good light at 65 degrees F. Transplant to                    
larger pots in 6 weeks and set outside in ground after all danger               
of frost.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Bring in bulbs of narcissus, and hyacinths started in pots                    
last fall for late winter indoor blooms.                                        
                                                                                
* Use care in putting wood ashes on the garden. They are alkaline               
and too much will raise the soil pH higher than optimum.                        
                                                                                
* One solution to the deer problem found effective in Louisiana                 
is rotten eggs. A mixture of 12-18 eggs in 5 gallons of water                   
sprayed over an acre emits enough odor to repel deer but not                    
offend the gardener.                                                            
                                                                                
* For added security around the home, plant thorny shrubs on                    
property lines and under windows. Some very thorny ones to                      
consider include pyracantha, tri-foliate orange, Rosa rugosa,                   
or thorny elaeagnus.                                                            
                                                                                
* Late winter (February and March) is the time to prune many                    
deciduous trees. Look over your plants now for dead, dying,                     
or unsightly parts of the tree; sprouts growing at or near the                  
base of the tree trunk; crossed branches (disease organisms                     
enter the tree through the abraded area where branches rub to-                  
gether); and V crotches. As the tree matures, V crotches become                 
increasingly susceptible to splitting. If possible, remove one                  
side of the crotch while the plant is young.                                    
                                                                                
* The 1986 edition of the American Rose Society's Handbook for                  
Selecting Roses is now available. More than 1000 roses are                      
listed alphabetically with color, classification, and a rating                  
as to how well they grow. There is also a section listing high                  
rated roses for easy reference or choice. To obtain your copy,                  
send 60 cents and a stamped, self-addressed envelope to: The                    
American Rose Society, Department US, P.O. Box 30,000, Shreves-                 
port, LA 71130.                                                                 
                                                                                
* For easier lawn maintenance, eliminate the hard to mow spaces.                
Put the bird bath in a flower bed or surround it with ground                    
cover. Eliminate acute angles. Combine single trees or shrubs                   
into a large planting connected with ground.                                    
                                                                                
* Do some reading on trickle irrigation this winter. It will                    
save you time and water and increase your garden yield.                         
                                                                                
* Watch for The Virginia Gardener on television this spring. A                  
weekly series of two-minute programs will be seen on cable                      
stations throughout the state during the 1986 growing season.                   
                                                                                
* After-bloom care is necessary for next year's flowers on                      
amaryllis. In general, at least four strong leaves are needed for               
each flower stalk. Keep the plant growing strongly until mid-July               
before allowing it to go dormant.                                               
                                                                                
* Every two or three years it is best to repot amaryllis bulbs in               
fresh media and increase the pot size is necessary. if offsets                  
are present, you may pot them individually. Immature bulbs                      
generally require 2-3 years to reach bloom size.                                
                                                                                
* Start ageratum, baby's breath, begonia, statics, pansy, sweet                 
pea and snapdragon seed indoors this month.                                     
                                                                                
* On warm days, check if any perennials have been heaved by                     
freezing and thawing of soil. Firmly press down any which have                  
lifted and cover with at least 2" of organic mulch.                             
                                                                                
* There are many prescriptions to keep deer from nibbling                       
ornamentals: fencing, plastic netting, repellants, sprays, hot                  
pepper sauce, egg whites, human hare, lion or tiger manure, even                
rock music. Try a few to find out what works for your uninvited                 
pruners.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Stamp down snow near young trees to discourage mice from                      
nesting under the snow around them.                                             
                                                                                
* Bring house plants which normally thrive on the north side of                 
the house to east windows, while allowing the plants from the                   
east more sun on the south. Also, give the plants that usually                  
are set on the tables away from direct light a short midwinter                  
visit to one of the less exposed windowsills. When extremely cold               
nights prevail, draw the window shades at night or slip lengths                 
of protective cardboard between plants and the glass. Move the                  
tenderest plants away from the window panes on the coldest                      
nights.                                                                         
                                                                                
* If you are considering installing supplemental lighting for                   
your indoor plants, the 48 inch, 40 watt fixture with two                       
fluorescent tubes is the industry standard. Spare parts are                     
readily available and high production assures lower costs for 48                
inch than for other size tubes. Use one cool white and one warm                 
white tube to obtain a light mix most beneficial to plants.                     
                                                                                
* Fluorescent tubes lose intensity with age. If your are using                  
quite a few fluorescent lamps, change a few tubes at a time to                  
avoid plant damage by the sudden increase in light intensity.                   
                                                                                
* Spend a cold evening in front of the fire going through seed                  
catalogs to decide what you are going to plant in this year's                   
garden.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Analyze last year's planting records, and fertilizeing and                    
spraying calendar. Make notations to reorder successful varieties               
as well as those you wish to try again.                                         
                                                                                
* If you potted bulbs of daffodils, crocus, tulips, or hyacinths                
in fall, bring them indoors now to force them into bloom. Place                 
pots in a window that receives direct sunlight for at least a few               
hours each day. Allow soil to dry partially between each water-                 
ing.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Tree branches that have grown so much as to cast excess shade                 
over flower plantings should be cut off in winter when, in                      
falling, they can do no damage to the bed.                                      
                                                                                
* Continue harvesting the carrots, parsnips, turnips, and                       
horseradish you left in the garden in the fall.                                 
                                                                                
* Thin leaved plants seem most sensitive to transplant shock. If                
a plant wilts after repotting, encase the entire plant in a                     
plastic bag. Twist the bag shut and punch two or three holes in                 
it. Allow the plant to recuperate in this protected environment                 
for two or three days. Resist the urge to water a wilted plant if               
the soil is moist.                                                              
                                                                                
* Winter is the time to apply miscible oil sprays to kill                       
over-wintering mites, aphids, and scale. Use on deciduous plants                
and hardy evergreens but not on needleleaf species.                             
                                                                                
* Spray miscible oils when temperatures are above 40 degrees F                  
but not within 24 hours of a freeze. Because oil kills insects by               
suffocation, avoid spraying on windy days to ensure that all                    
surfaces of the plant are covered.                                              
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
January Press Releases                                                          
                                                                                
Assessing the Winter Landscape                     52 lines                     
Container Media                                    52 lines                     
Seed Storage                                       51 lines                     
Coping with the Catalog                            16 lines                     
Reading the Seed Packet                            56 lines                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
ASSESSING THE WINTER LANDSCAPE                                                  
                                                                                
     Winter is an "in-between" time for gardeners. It is the                    
time to take stock of last year's landscape and plan improvements               
for the next year. As you consider changes in your landscape,                   
take time to study the winter view from your favorite window and                
consider ways to enhance it.                                                    
     Three of the most prominent features of the winter landscape               
are the silhouettes of the trees and shrubs, the colors of the                  
bark, and the red and orange fruit on many species.                             
     The leafless silhouettes of trees and shrubs are individual                
to each species and can be used effectively to improve your                     
winter landscape. The convoluted branches of the hazel cultivar                 
"contorta" make an interesting pattern against a fence, while                   
the horizontal branches of the flowering dogwood can add an                     
oriental style to your garden. (A cultivar is a variety which                   
has evolved through horticultural efforts, rather than through                  
natural means.)                                                                 
     The bark of trees and shrubs now attracts attention. The                   
brightest reds and corals of the winter twigs are found among                   
the species of shrub dogwoods, particularly the cultivar                        
"sibirica."  Yellow colors can be found on the shrub dogwood                    
cultivar "flaviramea" and the kerria cultivar "aureo-vittata."                  
     Athea varieties of kerria are noted for their green winter                 
twigs, along with the trifoliate orange and the different types                 
of brown. However, the most striking of the barks is the white                  
of the trunks on branches of the white bush and sycamore. The                   
pink tones of a winter sunset on the white bark of sycamore                     
almost make me forget what a nuisance this tree can be the rest                 
of the year.                                                                    
     For red fruit throughout much of the winter, two good                      
selections are the autumn olive and the possum haw. The autumn                  
olive has silvery red fruit that 25 species of birds enjoy. The                 
possum haw is heavily covered with large red fruit about the                    
size of cherries.                                                               
     Many other trees and shrubs brighten the winter landscape                  
with their fruit. Washington hawthorn has an abundance of shiny                 
red corymbs of fruit. The Lalandei firethorn is one of the                      
hardiest and showiest of the firethorns, with scarlet red fruit                 
covering the shrub well into January.                                           
     If you bundle up against the cold and go outside, you can                  
explore more closely your winter landscape. Examine closely the                 
twigs around you to be awed by nature's complex protection of                   
life at rest. Each dormant bud that will become next year's                     
leaf or flower is sheltered by bud scales that protect it from                  
dry air which would wither it during the cold winter months.                    
     Look also at the bark. Discover the "wings" on the sweet                   
gum and the winged euonymus. Notice that the bark on the birch                  
and sycamore is not smooth but is exfoliating; that is, shedding                
off in long strips or flaking off in irregular patches.                         
     Visit arboreta or nurseries during this "in-between" season                
and gather more ideas for a year-round landscape.                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
CONTAINER MEDIA                                                                 
                                                                                
     Did you ever consider why we have different mixtures of                    
soil and other materials for use in growing and propagating                     
house plants?  Why not use good old garden soil instead of                      
bothering with all these special combinations?                                  
     The big problem with indoor plants is soil aeration, which                 
is related to drainage. Most garden soils contain so much fine                  
silt or clay that they pack down and provide poor aeration and                  
drainage when used in pots. To correct this problem you need to                 
mix sand and peat moss with your soil.                                          
     A good general purpose mixture for house plants, or the                    
seedlings you will raise next spring, is one part each of soil,                 
shredded peat moss, and coarse sand. Add one-half part of dried                 
manure to improve the nutritional level.                                        
     Any mixture which contains soil should be sterilized to                    
kill insects, nematodes, disease organisms, and weed seeds. This                
may be accomplished by baking in the oven at 180 degrees for 30                 
minutes or by using a soil fumigant following the instruc-                      
tions on the package.                                                           
     You can avoid the need for sterilization by using a peat                   
moss and vermiculite mixture. Mix equal parts of shredded peat                  
moss and No. 2 horticultural grade vermiculite. Add a cupful of                 
ground limestone and a cupful of 5-10-5 fertilizer per bushel.                  
This mixture is excellent for growing seedling plants. You may                  
provide a more enduring nutrient supply for potted plants by                    
adding six quarts of dried manure per bushel of the above                       
mixture. This mixture may be used without sterilization.                        
     An now, let's discuss the mixtures you need for plant                      
propagation by cuttings. This is a quite different situation,                   
because the cuttings need moisture from a well aerated medium,                  
but practically no nutrients. You need sand, peat moss, vermicu-                
lite or perlite as a propagating medium.                                        
     You should consider the characteristics of these materials                 
to appreciate why they are so useful for the gardener. Sand is                  
excellent because of its good aeration and lack of nutrients,                   
but it has very low water holding capacity. The addition of                     
peat moss or vermiculite will provide the needed water retention.               
     Peat moss is partially decomposed swamp vegetation. It has                 
a high water holding capacity and usually contains one to three                 
percent nitrogen. It may be acid or alkaline, depending on the                  
source. Peat is useful as a mulch or as a medium for rooting                    
cuttings when mixed with sand, vermiculite, or perlite.                         
     Vermiculite is a heat expanded mica which is very light in                 
weight and has a high water holding capacity. It is an excellent                
material for rooting cuttings when mixed with sand or peat moss.                
When seeds are planted in heavy soils, they may be covered with                 
vermiculite to promote improved germination and easy emergence.                 
     Perlite is a heat expanded volcanic lava. The small sharp                  
particles are very light because of small trapped air pockets. It               
is useful as a propagation media when mixed with peat moss or                   
vermiculite.                                                                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
SEED STORAGE                                                                    
                                                                                
     Are those seeds any good which you had left over after                     
planting your garden last spring?  Most packets now cost 25                     
cents or more, compared to a dime only a few years ago. So, it                  
would be a nice saving if you could plant this spring those                     
which you did not use last year.                                                
     Many kinds of garden seeds remain viable for several years.                
Therefore, check your supply carefully before you make out your                 
new order.                                                                      
     The germination percentage you secure from old seeds                       
depends in part on the conditions under which they are stored.                  
The best way to keep most seeds from year to year is in a tight                 
jar in your home refrigerator. We appreciate that such space                    
usually is not available.                                                       
     The second choice is to store your seeds in a tight con-                   
tainer in a cool basement. Seeds may lose viability quite                       
rapidly in the warm temperatures of the average home.                           
     In general, garden seeds may be divided into three groups,                 
in terms of their longevity. Short life span seeds should give                  
satisfactory germination for one or two years. Medium life span                 
seeds usually will remain viable for three or four years. Long                  
life seeds should grow after storage of five to six years and                   
sometimes longer.                                                               
     Accurate information on the longevity of flower seeds is                   
hard to find. Based on limited observations, the following                      
should be considered as short ife span seeds:  astor, candytuft,                
cleome, columbine, honesty, kochia, phlox, salvia, strawflower,                 
and vinca.                                                                      
     Some of the more common flowers with long life seeds are                   
alyssum, calendula, centaurea, coreopsis, cosmos, marigold,                     
nasturtium, nigella, petunia, salpiglossis, scabiosa,                           
schizanthus, sweet pea, verbena, viola, and zinnia.                             
     Most vegetable seeds have rather long life, but there are a                
few important exceptions. For example, corn, leek, onion, and                   
parsnip seeds have short life spans. Those with medium longevity                
include beans, beet, carrot, Swiss chard, mustard, pepper,                      
pumpkin, and tomato. The seeds of other commonly grown vege-                    
tables will usually grow quite well even when five or more years                
old.                                                                            
     You may test the germination of your seeds by placing a                    
definite number on moist blotter paper in a dish or pan covered                 
with plastic or glass to maintain a high humidity. Place your                   
seed containers in a warm location and count those which germi-                 
nate in 10 to 14 days. From these figures you can easily deter-                 
mine the percentage germination and adjust the thickenss of                     
planting accordingly.                                                           
     Plant your old seeds more thickly than you do fresh ones. If               
the seeds are at or beyond the above suggested ages, plant                      
them about twice as thick as usual. Scatter them in a band in                   
the row rather than in a narrow dense line.                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
COPING WITH THE CATALOG                                                         
                                                                                
     If you are like me, you can easily be overwhelmed by the                   
beautiful pictures in the catalog.                                              
     Best defense is a good plan. Look and dream, write down                    
what looks good, check it against last year's notes (what did                   
well) and extension agent's recommendations.                                    
     Test last year's seed for germination by placing 10-12                     
seeds between moist blotter or paper towel in warm location. The                
seed should germinate in 5-7 days if it's still good.                           
     Decide how much space you can really take care of.                         
     Then start making a list and refining your plan. Look for                  
disease resistance and drought resistance.                                      
     Only experiment with a few new things each year.                           
     Make your "final" list then talk to friends and neighbors.                 
Maybe you can share some seed.                                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
READING THE SEED PACKET                                                         
                                                                                
     To the beginning gardener, reading the packets in a seed                   
display may seem a bit like reading a horticultural textbook.                   
Most seed packets contain a wealth of information if you know                   
what to look for and understand the terminology.                                
     A gardener who picks up a packet of tomato seeds may be                    
confronted with a description like "Small Fry VFN Hybrid A.A.S."                
It is important that the gardener decipher this code if he is to                
determine if that variety is the one to use.                                    
     Each variety is unique from the others that grow the same                  
crop. And often, one variety will be far more satisfactory for                  
your purposes than another. "Small Fry VFN Hybrid A.A.S." is a                  
determinate variety (with stems growing a predetermined length)                 
of tomato well-suited to certain culture, producing small, one-                 
inch diameter fruit. "Sweet 100 Hybrid" produces a smaller                      
fruit on a vigorous indeterminate vine that requires staking.                   
"Better Boy VFN Hybrid" may produce tomatoes up to 1 1/2 pounds                 
on large vines. So, the choice is yours.                                        
     Notice also the letters and words following the variety                    
name. Many of today's seeds are hybrids. This is a plant result-                
ing from crossing two plants of the same type to produce a                      
plant with a desired characteristic for one or more traits, such                
as height, fruit size, and flower color.                                        
     Hybrids usually are more vigorous, uniform in growth and                   
productive than non-hybrids. Also, they do not come true from                   
seed in the next generation. That is, the plants resulting from                 
the seed that you buy will have known characteristics but if you                
try to save seed from those fruits and raise additional plants,                 
they will be entirely different.                                                
     The letters VFN are codes to represent disease resistance.                 
(V = verticillium wilt, F = fusarium wilt, N = nematodes.)                      
Tomato varieties coded with these letters are less susceptible                  
to those specific problems. Always look for varieties which are                 
resistant to diseases. This will reduce your work and increase                  
your yield in the garden.                                                       
     The letters A.A.S. indicate that the variety was awarded a                 
medal for outstanding performance in variety trials nationwide                  
by the All-America Selections Committee. Although some varieties                
marked A.A.S. may not do well in Virginia, most will perform                    
superiorly.                                                                     
     Another item to watch for on the seed packet is the date. It               
should be clearly stated that the seed was packed for the                       
current growing season. Old seeds cannot be guaranteed to have                  
as high a germination rate, particularly if they were stored                    
improperly.                                                                     
     All packets will give some indication of the quantity of                   
content. The weight is far less useful than the number of seeds                 
or the amount of garden space that can be planted from that                     
packet. Information on timing the planting and spacing after                    
thinning or even drawings to help you identify the seedling when                
removing weeds add to the value of the packet.                                  
     After buying seeds, try storing them in a small file labeled               
with the date to plant them. After labeling the plants in the                   
garden with variety and date planted, return the empty packet to                
the file as a handy reference.                                                  
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
January 1986 Question Box                                                       
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan and Debbie Blosser,               
Horticulture Extension Technicians, working with Diane Relf,                    
Extension Specialist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener                   
Question Box has been developed for agent use in preparing radio                
and newspaper features.                                                         
                                                                                
EDITOR'S NOTE: In the November 1985 TVG Question Box, in referen-               
ce to acidifying soil: Although aluminum sulfate has traditional-               
ly been recommended to lower pH, in some soils it may build up to               
toxic levels (ie. heavy metal accumulation). Consult with the                   
Extension Specialists in Agronomy for correct recommendations                   
for your area.                                                                  
                                                                                
JANUARY TOPICS                                                                  
                                                                                
Wire imbedded in tree trunk                  14 lines                           
Jade plant                                   15 lines                           
Vacation watering of houseplants             21 lines                           
Little-leaf linden                           27 lines                           
Slow release fertilizer                      31 lines                           
Tissue culture                               31 lines                           
Spaghetti squash                             15 lines                           
Tayberry                                     22 lines                           
Juniper identification                       18 lines                           
Venus fly trap/carnivorous plants            40 lines                           
Micronutrients                               38 lines                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Will a wire growing around a tree trunk harm the tree?                          
                                                                                
Wires which become embedded in bark can be very destructive to a                
tree. Although the wire will rust, it won't disintegrate.                       
Therefore, as the bark, and then the wood, envelop the wire, the                
obstruction interferes with water and nutrient flow. Conse-                     
quently, the tree may die. In addition, the wire may cause the                  
tree to become weak at this point and it may break in high                      
winds. Also, in years to come, if the tree is cut down for                      
firewood, the hidden metal may ruin the saw or pieces of metal                  
may fly up and hurt someone.                                                    
                                                                                
If the wire is near the surface, using pliers or a vice grip, try               
to remove the fencing but remember all tree wounds provide an                   
entrance for insects and pathogens. Therefore, if the wire is                   
deeply embedded, just cut the fence and route it away from the                  
tree to prevent further damage.                                                 
                                                                                
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Does jade ever flower?  How long will a jade plant live?                        
                                                                                
The common jade, one of the most popular house plants, is valued                
primarily for its glossy green leaves. It seldom flowers under                  
household conditions unless subjected to high light intensity. A                
healthy plant several years old grown in a sunny window with an                 
adequate water supply may display clusters of pale pink blossoms                
occasionally.                                                                   
                                                                                
Jade thrives as a foliage plant under a wide range of environmen-               
tal conditions. It tolerates low light levels, hot dry air and                  
infrequent watering. It propagates readily from cuttings which                  
grow quickly to respectable size. Given good care, a plant will                 
live as long as you or I.                                                       
                                                                                
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I am planning my vacation and have been unable to find anyone to                
tend my plants while I'm gone. Is there anyway to keep them                     
watered?                                                                        
                                                                                
To keep potted plants watered while you're away, all you need is                
heavy cotton clothesline, a sink or large container filled with                 
water, and several objects to act as weights. Cut the clothesline               
into lengths long enough to reach from the bottom of the water-f-               
illed sink or container to the soil of each plant. Weight                       
the ends down that are in the water; insert the other end into                  
the soil by making a hole with a pencil and then firm the soil                  
around the clothesline. Start the siphon action by watering the                 
plant. Be sure to place saucers under plants to catch excess                    
water.                                                                          
                                                                                
Water plants in this manner the day before you leave to be sure                 
that the system is working properly for all the plants. A three                 
gallon container will water six plants in 6" pots for ten days in               
a house with normal relative humidity. If your home is very dry,                
make more water available. Because this method tends to over-                   
water some plants, which may result in disease problems, use this               
watering system only as a temporary measure.                                    
                                                                                
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Our neighborhood planning committee has selected little-leaf                    
lindens as street trees in front of our home. What do they look                 
like? What kind of care will be required?                                       
                                                                                
The little leaf linden, Tilia cordata, often is called the                      
small-leaved European linden. The tree is easily recognized at a                
distance, particularly in winter, because of its symmetrical,                   
almost sheared, appearance. As a young tree it is mostly conical                
in shape but as it matures it develops a nearly columnar growth                 
habit. The leaves are 1 1/2 to 3 inches long and nearly as wide.                
You may look forward to small but fragrant yellowish flowers in                 
early summer. In a well-drained soil, little-leaf linden will                   
easily produce eighteen to twenty-four inches of growth a year.                 
                                                                                
Little leaf linden is a strong tree rarely subject to the                       
breakage from ice or snow. In addition, it falls prey to few                    
insect pests and diseases. Aphids, while occasionally present in                
the trees, are usually of little consequence to the plant's                     
overall health. Perhaps the worst enemy of the linden is man,                   
himself, when he plants the tree in a heavy clay soil with poor                 
drainage and overfertilizes, or when he applies herbicides over                 
the root system.                                                                
                                                                                
Little leaf linden is widely used on the streets in Europe and                  
has gained favor in many American cities. Crosses, using little                 
leaf linden as one of the parents, have also resulted in some                   
useful trees for the landscape, including the Crimean linden.                   
                                                                                
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A plant which was given to me last month has little tan balls                   
appearing on the soil surface. What kind of eggs could they be?                 
How should I treat for it?                                                      
                                                                                
Chances are the spheres appearing on the soil surface are not                   
eggs at all, but slow-release fertilizer pellets. Slow-release                  
fertilizer is supposed to release nutrients at the same rate they               
are taken up by the plants.                                                     
                                                                                
The slow release fertilizer used on most indoor plants is                       
composed of granular fertilizer coated with resin to control the                
rate of nutrient release from the granules into the soil. When                  
the resin-coated granules come in contact with water, the resin                 
swells and the pores increases in size allowing the fertilizer                  
to dissolve and move into the soil. Release rate depends on the                 
coating thickness, temperature, and water content of the soil.                  
Release timing can be from 1 to 6 months depending on the                       
coating.                                                                        
                                                                                
Slow release fertilizers provide benefits to both the plant owner               
and the plant. The grower only needs to reapply the fertilizer                  
every few months depending on the formulation. Fertilizer                       
concentrations higher than usual can be applied as there is                     
little danger from fertilizer burn. Plants may use the nitrogen                 
in slow release fertilizers more efficiently than in other forms                
since it is continually being released at the proper rate. The                  
plants also do not experience "feast or famine" in regard to the                
rate at which they recieve nutrients. One should consider                       
two other aspects about slow release fertilizers before before                  
opting to use them: 1) they are generally more expensive than                   
other types of fertilization; 2) they may encourage excess growth               
in plants you would prefer to keep small.                                       
                                                                                
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I hear a lot about tissue culture as the new way to propagate                   
plants? What does this involve?                                                 
                                                                                
Plant tissue culture techniques have become important for the                   
study of a wide range of problems in plant research. Although                   
technical prodecures for tissue culture are diverse and sometimes               
complicated, a simplified procedure can be followed in the home.                
All that is needed are a few basic supplies which can easily be                 
obtained at local grocery stores.                                               
                                                                                
The procedures can be used in the home to propagate various                     
species of plants which are either easy (African violets, coleus,               
chrysanthemums) or difficult (orchids, ferns, weeping figs) to                  
propagate. Small, actively growing portions usually result in the               
most vigorous plantlets. For example, ferns are most readily                    
propagated by using only 1/2 inch of the tip of a rhizome. For                  
other species, 1/2 to 1 inch of the shoot tip is sufficient.                    
                                                                                
Plant parts to be tissue cultured are first disinfected in a                    
dilute solution of bleach, then transferred to a sterile contain-               
er (such as a baby food jar) filled with a specially prepared                   
culture medium. This is then placed in a warm, well-lighted                     
environment to encourage growth.                                                
                                                                                
When plantlets have grown to a sufficient size, they are trans-                 
planted into a light media. Transplanting should be as gentle as                
possible because the plants are leaving a warm, humid environment               
for a harsher, drier one. If you would like complete instruc-                   
tions, request publication 426-385 Plant Tissue Culture for the                 
Homeowner. (Excerpt from article an by Mark Bridgen, Graduate                   
Assistant, and Richard Veilleux, Assistant Professor, Horti-                    
culture, Virginia Tech.)                                                        
                                                                                
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What is "spaghetti squash"?                                                     
                                                                                
Spaghetti squash is a vegetable that is rapidly moving off the                  
"unusual" list because it is becoming so popular. A substitute                  
for noodles, this winter squash is simply boiled or baked and the               
pulp, when "fluffed out" with a fork, looks like noodles and                    
tastes delicious served with a sauce or butter. Spaghetti squash                
is grown like other vining winter squash and is susceptible to                  
the same problems. The vine spreads over a large area but has                   
been successfully trellised on a heavy tomato cage; each squash                 
being supported by a net sling to prevent its pulling the vine                  
down or falling off. Because they have a long growing season,                   
they should be started early. Spaghetti squash are ready to                     
harvest when they turn light yellow. Most seed companies carry                  
spaghetti squash sometimes calling it vegetable spaghetti.                      
                                                                                
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I am seeing a new type of raspberry in seed catalogs. It is                     
called tayberry. What can you tell me about it?                                 
                                                                                
The tayberry, a result of a Scottish breeding program, is an                    
offspring of two very different bramble plants, the blackberry                  
and the red raspberry. Although it resembles the logenberry, its                
fruit are considerably larger and more conical. It pulls from the               
bush much like the blackberry where the core remains with the                   
fruit rather than staying attached to the plant as is the case                  
for the raspberry.                                                              
                                                                                
Tayberry's growth habit more resembles that of the spreading                    
blackberry than the raspberry. Some outstanding yields have been                
obtained from these plants under experimental growing conditions.               
Because they are propagated by tissue culture, which requires                   
special facilities and techniques, their price is greater than                  
that of similar plants. However, tissue culture insures that the                
brambles will be vigorous, superior plants.                                     
                                                                                
Tayberry plants are not widely available at present. However,                   
they deserve to be planted by all home gardeners interested in                  
bramble production. (Excerpt from article by Jerry Williams,                    
Assistant Professor, Horticulture, Virginia Tech)                               
                                                                                
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Do you have any tips for telling junipers apart?                                
                                                                                
The foliage of junipers are of two distinct kinds: the juvenile                 
stage with sharp-pointed, prickly needles, and the adult,                       
scale-like formation. The prickly needles may predominate in one                
tree, the scale-like needles in another. Both kinds frequently                  
appear on the same tree, either permanently or in the                           
transitional stage.                                                             
                                                                                
Aside from the division of juniper foliage as either juvenile or                
adult, there is little help in distinguishing junipers from                     
foliage alone. Identification of junipers is mainly reduced to a                
consideration of the color of the foliage and the habit of the                  
plant. Because of characteristic differences in this regard, it                 
is necessary to become familiar with shapes and colors exhibited                
in various species and varieties. However, junipers may be easily               
distinguished from other genera of evergreens if they are found                 
with their semi-fleshy, bluish or reddish-brown cones often                     
called "juniper berries."                                                       
                                                                                
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A friend gave me a Venus fly trap. Does this plant really eat                   
flies?                                                                          
                                                                                
Carnivorous plants, such as Venus fly trap, are true botanical                  
oddities. Many of these meat-eating plants evolved as a result of               
a habitat deficient in nitrogen, which is required for growth,                  
development, and reproduction.                                                  
                                                                                
All carnivorous plants can be grouped into three major categories               
(active, semi-active, or passive) based on the way they ensnare                 
their prey. Active traps, like Venus fly trap and bladderworts,                 
employ swift movements to prevent escape by prey. Semi-active                   
traps move much more slowly and generally have sticky, viscous                  
liquids to detain the victim in the interim; sundews and butterw-               
orts fit into this category. Finally, some carnivorous plants                   
must rely on peculiar shaped leaves to attract and trap insects.                
Such a mechanism is called passive since the trapping does not                  
involve leaf movement, only a clever arrangement of hairs and                   
other leaf modifications which permit the prey to travel in only                
one direction. Pitcher plants are representative of this categor-               
y.                                                                              
                                                                                
On Venus fly trap, the end of each leaf consists of two matching                
pads, outlined with needle-like teeth. Both pads are hinged                     
together and have the ability to open and close in the same way a               
clam or scallop does. This highly specialized ability is control-               
led by three sensory hairs projecting from the internal surface                 
of each pad. Trap closure depends on repeated stimulation, or                   
touching, of these hairs. This characteristic insures that if a                 
leaf or twig falls upon the trap with a single impact, it will                  
not cause the plant to expend energy enclosing a useless object.                
However, a potential victim stumbling over the hairs several                    
times will cause immediate entrapment.                                          
                                                                                
The Venus fly-trap (Dionaea muscipula) grows primarily in certain               
boggy areas within North Carolina. The Venus fly trap has been                  
placed on the endangered species list since careless and greedy                 
collecting occurred throughout the past. Vegetatively propagated                
plants are generally inexpensive and readily available from local               
or mail order sources.(Excerpt from article by Robert E. Lyons,                 
Assistant Professor, Horticulture, Virginia Tech)                               
                                                                                
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Some fertilizers (the expensive ones) contain micronutrients. Do                
my plants need these?                                                           
                                                                                
To understand the role that fertilization plays in supplying                    
plant nutrients, it is necessary to look at the plants's total                  
nutritional needs. Plants require 16 elements for proper growth                 
and development. Three of these 16 elements (carbon, hydrogen,                  
and oxygen) come directly from air and water. The remaining 13                  
elements come from the soil. In naturally occurring ecosystems,                 
most soils are able to supply adequate amounts of these 13                      
elements to support plant growth as can be seen by viewing our                  
native woodlands. In the production of crops and house plants,                  
however, it is necessary to supplement some of the nutrients in                 
the soil with fertilizer.                                                       
                                                                                
The 13 elements provided by the soil can be broken into 2                       
categories: those required by plants in large amounts, the                      
macronutrients, and those required by plants in small amounts,                  
the micronutrients or trace elements. The macronutrients consist                
of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium. magnesium and                      
sulfur. The micronutrients or trace elements consist of zinc,                   
manganese, copper, iron, boron, molybdenum, and chlorine.                       
                                                                                
Trace elements are not normally supplied on a regular basis,                    
since the soil is usually able to supply the small amounts needed               
for plant growth. However, occasions do arise where on certain                  
soils and for certain crops, it is necessary to apply one or more               
of these trace elements. This is normally the exception rather                  
than the rule in crop production. Inadequate trace element                      
supplies can often be corrected by adjusting the soil pH to the                 
proper level, since pH has a direct effect on the availability of               
many soil nutrients.                                                            
                                                                                
To determine the nutrient requirements of your crop, have your                  
soil tested on a regular basis. Your county extension agent will                
provide you with the necessary information and materials for                    
taking and submitting a soil sample for analysis. (Excerpt from                 
an article by Stephen J. Donohue, Extension Specialist, Soil and                
Plant Analysis)                                                                 
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
January Notes 1987                                                              
                                                                                
Herbaceous plants                                                               
                                                                                
* Plan your herbaceous flower beds now so you can make changes                  
early in the spring. Many perennials will need to be divided.                   
Perhaps you can arrange to trade with friends and neighbors. Des-               
ignate location in the bed for summer flowering annuals to fill                 
in color between your spring perennials and fall chrysanthemums.                
                                                                                
* If you want lily bulbs free from disease, raise them from seed.               
Start seed in flats of vermiculite in a greenhouse this month.                  
Crows hybrids, 'Henryi', Preston hybrids and 'Princepts Creelman'               
seeds will germinate within three to six weeks. When seedlings                  
are large enough to handle, transplant into a good conventional                 
potting soil. The second spring plants may be moved outside to                  
flower beds which should be dug two to three feet deep as lilies                
require good drainage. They will start to bloom that summer. Be                 
careful not to overfeed lilies.                                                 
                                                                                
* Start ageratum, baby's breath, begonia, statics, pansy, sweet                 
pea and snapdragon seed indoors this month or next. Have plenty                 
of light.                                                                       
                                                                                
* In warmer parts of the state, tuberous begonias and caladiums                 
can be started indoors now. In mountain areas, start next                       
month. Set root starts in pots or shallow boxes of rich soil (1/3               
sand, 1/3 peat, 1/3 loam). Cover with one inch of mixture. Keep                 
moist, not wet, in good light at 65 degrees F. Transplant to                    
larger pots in 6 weeks and set outside in ground after all danger               
of frost.                                                                       
                                                                                
* On warm days, check if any perennials have been heaved by                     
freezing and thawing of soil. Firmly press down any which have                  
lifted and cover with at least 2" of organic mulch.                             
                                                                                
                                                                                
Woody Ornamental                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
* Stamp down snow near young trees to discourage mice from                      
nesting under the snow around them.                                             
                                                                                
* Remember, trees and shrubs have an economic value. If killed or               
damaged by ice or accident, they may be covered by homeowner's                  
insurance.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Tree branches that have grown so much as to cast excess shade                 
over flower plantings should be cut off in winter when, in                      
falling, they can do no damage to the bed.                                      
                                                                                
* When choosing a location for new shrubs and trees, take into                  
account that a sunny spot in the garden now may be an area of                   
shade in the spring or summer. However, ornamentals like azaleas,               
camellias, dogwood, sourwood, cape jasmine, spirea, mahonia, and                
leucothoe like shade. Plan accordingly.                                         
                                                                                
* The 1986 edition of the American Rose Society's Handbook for                  
Selecting Roses is now available. More than 1000 roses are listed               
alphabetically with color, classification, and a rating as to how               
well they grow. There is also a section listing high rated roses                
for easy reference or choice. To obtain your copy, send 60 cents                
and a stamped, self-addressed envelope to: The American Rose                    
Society, Department US, P.O. Box 30,000, Shrevesport, LA 71130.                 
                                                                                
* Late winter (February and March) is the time to prune many                    
deciduous trees. Look over your plants now for dead, dying, or                  
unsightly parts of the tree; sprouts growing at or near the base                
of the tree trunk; crossed branches (disease organisms enter the                
tree through the abraded area where branches rub together); and V               
crotches. As the tree matures, V crotches become increasingly                   
susceptible to splitting. If possible, remove one side of the                   
crotch while the plant is young.                                                
                                                                                
* Brush snow from evergreens as soon as possible after a storm.                 
Use a broom handle and an upward, sweeping motion. Serious damage               
may be caused by heavy snow or ice accumulating on the branches.                
                                                                                
* When salt is needed to melt ice on walks and drives, spread it                
carefully to avoid severe damage to nearby shrubs. Damage to                    
needle-type evergreens will be evident next spring by copper and                
yellow tones. Damaged deciduous plants will have bronze or                      
reddish leaves.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Coniferous and broadleaf trees react in different ways to wind                
stress. Conifers put on extra growth on the leeward side of                     
trunks and limbs, and broadleafs on the windward side. They also                
react differently to the strain of gravity. Confifers build up                  
growth of horizontal limbs on the underside, and broadleafs on                  
the upper side.                                                                 
                                                                                
* It is safer to prop up ice covered branches and let the ice                   
melt than to try to remove ice from brittle branches.                           
                                                                                
* Spray miscible oils when temperatures are above 40 degrees F                  
but not within 24 hours of a freeze. Because oil kills insects by               
suffocation, avoid spraying on windy days to ensure that all                    
surfaces of the plant are covered.                                              
                                                                                
* Don't delay planting a live Christmas tree especially if it has               
already been in the house three days or more. Have a whole predug               
in a planting site, that takes into account the plant's light,                  
soil, and drainage needs, along with how it fits into your                      
landscape plan. Susceptiblity of the plant to wind damage is also               
a concern.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Winter is the time to apply miscible oil sprays to kill                       
over-wintering mites, aphids, and scale. Use on deciduous plants                
and hardy evergreens but not on needleleaf species.                             
                                                                                
                                                                                
Landscape                                                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
* For added security around the home, plant thorny shrubs on                    
property lines and under windows. Some very thorny ones to                      
consider include pyracantha, tri-foliate orange, Rosa rugosa, or                
thorny elaeagnus.                                                               
                                                                                
* Do-it-yourself landscaping projects have a high priority these                
days. They provide savings in more ways than most people realize:               
(1) they enhance property value; (2) they can reduce the cost of                
heating and cooling bills; (3) they save the actual out-of-                     
pocket expense of contracting to have the job done; (4) they                    
provide indirect savings on taxes (for example, someone in the                  
30% tax bracket would have to earn $430 to have enough after-tax                
cash to pay $300 for a job done around the home); (5) home                      
landscaping is great preventative therapy and improves one's                    
mental health.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Look at your landscape. Do you need evergreens to protect your                
privacy, reduce street noise, block the glare of street lights? -               
Order plants now and in February for March planning.                            
                                                                                
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
* For easier lawn maintenance, eliminate the hard to mow spaces.                
Put the bird bath in a flower bed or surround it with ground                    
cover. Eliminate acute angles. Combine single trees or shrubs                   
into a large planting connected with ground cover.                              
                                                                                
* Avoid heavy traffic on the dormant lawn. Dry grass is easily                  
broken and the crown of the plant may be severely damaged or                    
killed.                                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
* Sow seeds of cool season vegetables now for transplanting in                  
the garden in March and April. Use individual peat pots, or                     
simply cover the floor of the cold frame with a rich soil mix and               
sow seeds directly into it. Start broccoli, brussels sprouts,                   
cabbage, cauliflower, collards, lettuce, and spinach,in the                     
warmer parts of the state.                                                      
                                                                                
* Bees provide pollination for your plants outside In your                      
greenhouse, youre in charge of fruit set for tomatoes, peppers                  
and eggplants. When your plants are in bloom, take a cotton swab                
or a fine paintbrush and transfer the pollen from one flower to                 
another. Just swirl the swab or brush lightly inside each flower,               
one after the other. Repeat this process again on the next day to               
make sure you catch the flowers when they're ready. Don't wait                  
too long after the blossoms appear to pollinate, or they'll wilt                
before you have a chance. For most plants, you'll have success                  
pollinating, a day after blossoms open. When you have met with                  
success, you will be able to see tiny fruits as the flowers wilt.               
                                                                                
* Continue harvesting the carrots, parsnips, turnips, and                       
horseradish you left in the garden in the fall.                                 
                                                                                
* Review your vegetable garden plans. Perhaps a smaller garden                  
with fewer weeds and insects will give you more produce.                        
                                                                                
* Analyze last year's planting records, and fertilizeing and                    
spraying calendar. Make notations to reorder successful varieties               
as well as those you wish to try again.                                         
                                                                                
* When reviewing your garden catalogs for new vegetable                         
varieties to try, an important consideration is improved insect                 
and/or disease resistance over older plants. Watch also for                     
drought-tolerant plants.                                                        
                                                                                
* Don't wait too late in the winter to order seed. Many varieties               
sell out early.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Before ordering your spring seed, do a "rag doll" germination                 
test on those seeds left over from last year's order. Roll 10 or                
20 seeds in a damp paper towel, keep moist in a warm location. On               
most crops, germination of viable seed will occur within a                      
week. If half the seeds germinate and you have enough left to                   
plant twice as many as you usually do, you should get an adequate               
crop. Otherwise, order more seed. It's a small investment to                    
insure success.                                                                 
                                                                                
                                                                                
Indoor plants                                                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
* After-bloom care is necessary for next year's flowers on                      
amaryllis. In general, at least four strong leaves are needed for               
each flower stalk. Keep the plant growing strongly until mid-July               
before allowing it to go dormant.                                               
                                                                                
* To prolong bloom, poinsettias must be protected from drafts and               
kept moderately moist.                                                          
                                                                                
* Turn and prune house plants regularly to keep them shapely. Pi-               
nch back the stems of house plants as needed to promote balanced                
growth.                                                                         
                                                                                
* To maximize light reception, wash house plants with glossy                    
leaves every two weeks. Use soapy water and rinse with clear                    
water. The easiest place to do the job is in the bath tub.                      
                                                                                
* Give your holiday gift plants the best care so you can retain                 
their original, attractive appearance. Keep them cool with a                    
temperature of 70 degrees F. during the day and 60 degrees at                   
night. Set the pots on crushed stone or gravel in a pan of water                
to maintain higher humidity.                                                    
                                                                                
* Check all of your plants closely for insect infestations. Pests               
are sometimes brought in on gift plants and those that were                     
present in small numbers before the holidays, may have multiplied               
under neglect.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Overwatering indoor plants encourages fungal diseases. Water                  
only when the soil is dry to the touch, or when the foliage of                  
large-leaved plants is slightly drooping. Try to avoid splat-                   
tering or splashing the leaves.                                                 
                                                                                
* Feeding houseplants except where you're deliberately forcing,                 
should be kept to a minimum. Most plant growth is now at its                    
lowest, and food needs are correspondingly minimal.                             
                                                                                
* House plants and holidy gift plants should not be placed on top               
of the television. It is too warm a location and in most homes                  
too far from windows to provide adequate light.                                 
                                                                                
* Thin leaved plants seem most sensitive to transplant shock. If                
a plant wilts after repotting, encase the entire plant in a                     
plastic bag. Twist the bag shut and punch two or three holes in                 
it. Allow the plant to recuperate in this protected environment                 
for two or three days. Resist the urge to water a wilted plant if               
the soil is moist.                                                              
                                                                                
* If you potted bulbs of daffodils, crocus, tulips, or hyacinths                
in fall, bring them indoors now to force them into bloom. Place                 
pots in a window that receives direct sunlight for at least a few               
hours each day. Allow soil to dry partially between each water-                 
ing.                                                                            
                                                                                
* For an interesting ornamental plant and a culinary addition,                  
buy a plump unshriveled ginger root at the grocery store and                    
plant in a light sandy soil just under the surface in a 6" to 8"                
pot. Place in a warm sunny window and keep damp until shoots                    
appear. Increase water and fertilize monthly with high phos-                    
phorus. Harvest your crop in about 8 months, saving a piece to                  
replant.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Fluorescent tubes lose intensity with age. If your are using                  
quite a few fluorescent lamps, change a few tubes at a time to                  
avoid plant damage by the sudden increase in light intensity.                   
                                                                                
* If you are considering installing supplemental lighting for                   
your indoor plants, the 48 inch, 40 watt fixture with two                       
fluorescent tubes is the industry standard. Spare parts are                     
readily available and high production assures lower costs for 48                
inch than for other size tubes. Use one cool white and one warm                 
white tube to obtain a light mix most beneficial to plants.                     
                                                                                
* Bring house plants which normally thrive on the north side of                 
the house to east windows, while allowing the plants from the                   
east more sun on the south. Also, give the plants that usually                  
are set on the tables away from direct light a short midwinter                  
visit to one of the less exposed windowsills. When extremely cold               
nights prevail, draw the window shades at night or slip lengths                 
of protective cardboard between plants and the glass. Move the                  
tenderest plants away from the window panes on the coldest                      
nights.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Every two or three years it is best to repot amaryllis bulbs in               
fresh media and increase the pot size is necessary. if offsets                  
are present, you may pot them individually. Immature bulbs                      
generally require 2-3 years to reach bloom size.                                
                                                                                
* During the winter most houses are too dry for house plants. Hu-               
midity may be increased by placing plants on trays lined with                   
pebbles and filled with water to within one half inch of the base               
of the pot. If you heat with wood, keep a pot of water on the                   
stove. The added moisture will be healthier for you as well as                  
your plants.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Mealy bugs on your house plants can be killed by touching them                
with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
Tools and equipment (includes container)                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
* Do some reading on trickle irrigation this winter. It will save               
you time and water and increase your garden yield.                              
                                                                                
* Move garden ornaments such as urns or jars into the garage or                 
basement to prevent damage during the cold winter season.                       
                                                                                
* Overhaul your garden sprayer, inspect leather washers and                     
plunger and replace any worn parts (after thoroughly oiling new                 
leather). It may be difficult to locate exact parts for your                    
model sprayer. By starting now, you'll have them by gardening                   
season.                                                                         
                                                                                
* If you have some time this winter, paint the handles of garden                
tools red. This will preserve the wood and make the tools easier                
to locate next summer when you lay them down in the garden or on                
the lawn.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Keep all outdoor containers turned upside down during the                     
winter so water will not collect in them and freeze causing                     
breakage. If containers are too large to move, cover them with                  
wood or other sturdy material to prevent water collecting.                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
* Wood ashes will raise soil pH. Use them only if the pH is under               
7.0 based on a soil test. The safe rate of wood ash application                 
to lawn or gardens is 15-20 lbs. per 1000 square feet per year                  
(approximately a 5 gal. pail). Remember, a little wood ash is                   
beneficial, but a lot is not.                                                   
                                                                                
* Use branches from Christmas tree as shelter for birds or as a                 
light mulch over perennials or rock garden plants.                              
                                                                                
* Feed the birds regularly and see that they have water. Birds                  
like suet, fruit, nuts, and bread crumbs as well as bird seed.                  
They won't even complain if the food is stale.                                  
                                                                                
* One solution to the deer problem found effective in Louisiana                 
is rotten eggs. A mixture of 12-18 eggs in 5 gallons of water                   
sprayed over an acre emits enough odor to repel deer but not                    
offend the gardener.                                                            
                                                                                
* For tips on being a smart mail-order shopper and a list of 95                 
mail-order nurseries, send a self-addressed business sized                      
envelope with 37 cents postage to The Complete Guide to Gardening               
by Mail, Mail Order Association of Nurserymen, Inc., 210 Cart-                  
wright Blvd., Massapequa Park, NY 11762.                                        
                                                                                
* Spend a cold evening in front of the fire going through seed                  
catalogs to decide what you are going to plant in this year's                   
garden.                                                                         
                                                                                
* There are many prescriptions to keep deer from nibbling                       
ornamentals: fencing, plastic netting, repellants, sprays, hot                  
pepper sauce, egg whites, human hare, lion or tiger manure, even                
rock music. Try a few to find out what works for your uninvited                 
pruners.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Start planning now for next year's holiday gifts and decora-                  
tions. Record those items you wished you had this year (dried                   
flowers, herbs, pickles and preserves) and make sure you plant                  
them for next year.                                                             
                                                                                
* Recycle your holiday decorations. Greenery used in ornaments                  
can be used again in the garden. Wreaths and branches stripped                  
from Christmas trees make excellent mulch for protecting newly                  
planted ornamentals. Remove the material in the spring and                      
compost it.                                                                     
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
January 1987  Press Releases                                                    
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by Diane Relf, Extension                    
Specialist in Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Press                    
Releases have been developed for agent use in preparing radio and               
newspaper features and other educational programs.                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
Water Impurities May Harm House Plants     48 lines                             
Gardening for Pleasure and Profit          52 lines                             
The Edible Landscape                       53 lines                             
Ginkgo                                     54 lines                             
Bulbs and Similar Structures               65 lines                             
Water Impurities May Harm House Plants                                         
                                                                                
There is more to water than meets the eye. After all, there are                 
many sources of water: well water, tap water, distilled water,                  
dionized water and rain water. Some water may be considered hard                
and other water is perceived as soft. Some of these types of                    
water contain more than H2O. They contain impurities, some of                   
which can alter the soil's pH and soil fertility or can actually                
damage sensitive plants.                                                        
                                                                                
Well water may contain dissolved minerals such as iron, calcium,                
magnesium and fluorides. If the level of these materials is high                
enough, the water is termed hard. The impurities in hard water,                 
such as calcium and magnesium can raise the pH and increase the                 
soluble salts in the soil.                                                      
                                                                                
Fluoride is present naturally in some well water, especially in                 
areas of Virginia. Concentration of fluorides in water and soil                 
can cause damage such as tip burn in certain plants particularly                
in the lily family. Fluoride damage is generally aggravated by                  
low pH. Most house plants do not seem to be affected by normal                  
levels of fluoride.                                                             
                                                                                
Tap water can also be hard depending on its source. Besides                     
natural impurities, tap water generally contains intentional                    
impurity as well. Most municipal water systems add chlorine and                 
fluoride to water for health reasons. The amount of fluoride                    
added should not damage most plants provided the pH is not too                  
low. Chlorine has been linked with damage to certain plants.                    
Chlorine concentration can be quite high in some city water                     
systems. Marginal necrosis may develop on tender foliage plants                 
due to chlorine.                                                                
                                                                                
Hard water can be softened by ion exchange units. However, water                
softeners usually replace calcium and/or magnesium with sodium.                 
Sodium has been found to cause damage on a few tender foliage                   
plants. There is, therefore, little if any advantage in using                   
this type of soft water.                                                        
                                                                                
Rain water, dionized water, and distilled water are good for                    
watering house plants because they contain little or no impuriti-               
es. Rain water is by far the cheapest and most available. The use               
of rain water or other naturally soft waters is recommended for                 
watering plants in containers without drainage holes, such as                   
terrariums, dish gardens, and bottle gardens.                                   
                                                                                
Some of the problems of tap water can be reduced by allowing                    
water to sit overnight as some of the impurities such as chlorine               
will volitalize.                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Gardening for Pleasure and Profit                                               
                                                                                
The best reason to plant a garden is the satisfaction gained from               
watching things grow. Gardening provides an excellent way to                    
express creativity; paint colorful pictures with summer annuals,                
design intimate hideaways with ferns, mosses and wild flowers, or               
build a beautiful vegetable garden with raised beds and ornate                  
trellises. Gardening is a constant challenge; grow unusual kinds                
of plants, and experiment with new garden layouts and different                 
cultural techniques.                                                            
                                                                                
However, economic impact can be very important in gardening. This               
may take the form of increased property value, savings on monthly               
bills or products for use by family and friends.                                
                                                                                
A survey of realtors showed that attractive landscaping can add                 
hundreds, sometimes thousands, of dollars to the sale price of a                
house. In one study, realtors felt a well-maintained lawn would                 
add $1,400 to the sale price of a  $45,000 home. An attractive                  
landscape may increase the value of the home by 7 to 14%.                       
                                                                                
According to an American Association of Nurserymen's study of two               
identical houses, one exposed and the other protected by trees                  
and shrubs, there can be as much as 40% savings in fuel consump-                
tion for heating the protected home. Summer cooling bills can be                
reduced by 30% by deciduous shade trees.                                        
                                                                                
The most noticeable and immediate economic returns come from the                
vegetable garden. As the cost of fresh produce increases, so does               
the value of the home garden. The most valuable vegetable                       
continues to be the tomato with a production well over $2.00/-                  
square foot. Valuable yields also come from green bunching                      
onions, leaf lettuce, turnips, summer squash and edible podded                  
peas. However, among the lowest per square foot values in                       
vegetables are pumpkins, watermelons and sweet corn.                            
                                                                                
Small fruit plantings such as blueberries, strawberries, black-                 
berries, and grapes have increased in popularity and give good                  
economic value as well as satisfaction. Apple trees require such                
an extensive spray program for high-quality fruit that many                     
homeowners feel they are better off buying a bushel of apples                   
than planting a tree.                                                           
                                                                                
Gifts from the garden, from pickles to preserves and from dried                 
flower arrangements to grape vine wreaths not only stretch                      
gardeners' pocketbooks, but also increase their imagination and                 
bring them closer to friends.                                                   
                                                                                
To more fully understand the economic impact of gardening, there                
are several other considerations. If you weren't gardening, you                 
might be traveling, bowling, or playing video games, far more                   
expensive hobbies. And, as a do-it-yourself gardener, remember,                 
if you are in the 20% tax bracket, you must earn $500 to pay                    
someone $400 for your garden maintenance work.                                  
                                                                                
The Edible Landscape                                                            
                                                                                
One way to stretch your food dollar, have a lovely landscape, and               
many hours of gardening pleasure is to plant edible ornamentals.                
Many fruits, vegetables, and herbs are very attractive and can                  
easily be incorporated into the landscape around your home.                     
                                                                                
Blueberries can be used as a tasty replacement for any acid-                    
loving shrub. Goosberries and currants will produce a good                      
harvest in those parts of the state where planting is not                       
restricted due to White Pine blister rust. A grape arbor provides               
summer shade and winter jellies. Strawberries offer an interest-                
ingalternative as a ground cover. Growing rapidly to cover an                   
area, strawberries are less expensive and provide better weed                   
control than some traditional ground covers. To the dark green                  
foliage of summer and the reds of fall is added the bonus of a                  
delicious harvest.                                                              
                                                                                
The coarse foliage of rhubarb adds an interesting texture to a                  
perennial border, while parsley, thyme, and lettuce make excel-                 
lent edging plants in any flower bed. The fruit on ornamental                   
peppers and eggplants are both quite showy and edible.                          
                                                                                
Many fruit trees, particularly dwarf varieties, lend themselves                 
well to the modern landscape. In addition, many of the tradition-               
al ornamental trees, shrubs, and flowers produce edible parts.                  
Crab apples, quince, and rose hips provide nutrition with good                  
taste. Nasturtium flowers and leaves add a peppery bite to                      
salads.                                                                         
                                                                                
If you want to make your landscape more edible, start reading and               
planning this winter so you will be prepared by planting time.                  
Make a rough sketch of your property to show existing buildings,                
fences, trees, shrubs, and other plants. Study the weather in                   
your area, the average frost dates and rainfall. Have a soil test               
done to determine pH and fertilizer needs. Become familiar with                 
different sites around your home, watch for frost pockets, amount               
of wind and sun, soil drainage, and such people influences as                   
children walking home from school. Put your findings on paper and               
use this information to select the plants that will grow best in                
each location.                                                                  
                                                                                
Plan for complications. Chemical pesticides applied to nearby                   
ornamental plantings during the harvest season may contaminate                  
your edibles. Birds love the fruit on blueberries and protective                
netting may be a necessary, but unnattractive addition to your                  
landscape for part of each year.                                                
                                                                                
Plant for use, not nuisance. Apples are a mess on the ground if                 
not used. Plan for convenience. In addition to identifying the                  
ideal location for your edible plants, consider the location that               
will insure the maximum use of the produce. Frequently used herbs               
as well as popular vegetables, such as tomatoes, deserve a place                
by the door step. Consider the resale of your property. The next                
owner may not want to bother. So if you will move in the next few               
years stick with edible annuals and leave the trees and shrubs as               
traditional ornamentals.                                                        
Ginkgo                                                                          
                                                                                
The ginkgo has been growing on earth for over 150 million years,                
and was once native to North America. However, it has survived as               
a truly wild tree only in a few mountain groves in the Chekiang                 
province of China, from where it was re-introduced around the                   
world about 300 years ago. In China and Japan this tree's                       
antiquity and beauty led to its being planted widely in temple                  
gardens. Elsewhere, however, it was often regarded merely with                  
curiosity and planted as a single specimen. Because of its high                 
tolerance to air pollution it has become an important urban tree                
in recent years.                                                                
                                                                                
Ginkgo has several unusual names. It is called maidenhair tree in               
English because of its lacy foliage and divided leathery leaves                 
that strikingly resemble the fronds of the maidenhair fern. The                 
Latin or scientific name of Ginkgo biloba is derived from ginkgo,               
the Japanese name for the tree, and biloba meaning two lobed.                   
Translation of the French name is the tree of forty shields, in                 
reference to its unusual leaf shape.                                            
                                                                                
The ginkgo's leaves are more frondlike than leaflike, broadening                
toward the tip, with fanning veins. Each leaf is divided into two               
marked lobes by a shallow notch or cut. When the leaves open in                 
spring, they are pale green and prominently veined. But soon the                
leaves turn a much darker green and are best known by this color.               
Ginkgo displays attractive yellowish gold color in autumn.                      
                                                                                
The ginkgo forms a lofty, spire-shaped tree, with gray-barked                   
trunk and an ascending pyramid of dense, slender little twigs                   
that in winter bear chestnut-red, knob-shaped buds. It is a slow                
grower, reaching 80 or 90 feet eventually. It blends well with                  
other colorful trees like copper beeches, making it a choice                    
ornamental. The wood of the ginkgo is yellowish, light, and                     
brittle. It is used in China for carving small objects.                         
                                                                                
Each ginkgo tree is either male or female. Female trees have                    
small, seed-bearing flowers on short stalks that are pollinated                 
by the wind and produce an orange-yellow seed rather like a plum.               
Once ripe, the seed fall from the tree and bursts. Although the                 
white kernel inside tastes like a chestnut, the juicy flesh gives               
off a foul smell. The kernel is commonly eaten in China under the               
name of Pai Kuo Shu, "white fruit tree" and is exported bottled                 
in water or as a syrup for dessert. However, the malodorus fruit,               
makes the female plants undesirable as an ornamental. As there is               
no difference in the growth habit between male and female trees                 
and it takes from 20 to 50 years before the ginkgo begins to                    
fruit, it is wise to purchase only named cultivars that are                     
guaranteed to be clones of male plants.                                         
                                                                                
Ginkgo adapts readily to most sites. It prefers sandy, deep,                    
moderately moist soil and tolerates soil salts and air pollution.               
It is extremely free of pests and is a durable tree for difficult               
landscape situations.                                                           
Bulbs and Similar Structures                                                    
                                                                                
Sometimes gardening terms can become confusing and lead to wrong                
cultural practises. For example, the term bulb is used to apply                 
to a number of different plant structures which are planted and                 
propagated differently. Although all of these structures are                    
modified stems, they go by different names depending on their                   
location and make-up. Above ground bulblike structures are called               
crowns, and  the below-ground ones are bulbs, corms, rhizomes and               
tubers.                                                                         
                                                                                
Crowns are found on such plants as strawberries, daylilies,and                  
African violets. Crowns are compressed stems having leaves and                  
flowers on short internodes. On most ornamental plants the crowns               
gradually thicken to include many stems in close proximity.                     
                                                                                
Rhizomes grow underground rather than above ground. Some rhizomes               
are compressed and fleshy such as Iris; they can also be slender                
with elongated internodes such as bentgrass. Johnsongrass is                    
an insidious weed principally because of the spreading capability               
of its rhizomes.                                                                
                                                                                
Below-ground stem variations such as the potato tuber, the tulip                
bulb and the iris rhizome are underground stems that store food                 
for the plant. The tuber, like any other stem, has nodes that                   
produce buds. The eyes of a potato are actually the nodes on the                
stem. Each eye contains a cluster of buds.                                      
                                                                                
Tulips, lilies, daffodils, and onions are plants that produce                   
true bulbs which are shortened, compressed, underground stems                   
surrounded by fleshy scales (leaves) that envelop a central bud                 
located at the tip of the stem. In November, if you cut through                 
the center of a tulip or daffodil bulb, you can see all the                     
flower parts in miniature within the bulb.                                      
                                                                                
Many bulbs require a period of low temperature exposure before                  
they begin to send up the new plant. Both the length of this                    
treatment and the temperature are of critical importance to                     
commercial growers who force bulbs for holidays. Easter lilies                  
are especially tricky to time since the date of Easter may vary                 
by six weeks.                                                                   
                                                                                
Corms have shapes similar to bulbs, but do not contain fleshy                   
scales. A corm is a solid, swollen stem whose scales have been                  
reduced to dry, scale-like leaves.                                              
                                                                                
Some plants produce a modified stem that is referred to as a                    
tuberous stem. Examples are tuberous begonia and cyclamen. The                  
stem is shortened, flattened, enlarged, and underground. Buds and               
shoots arise from the top or crown and fibrous roots are found on               
the bottom of the tuberous stem.                                                
                                                                                
In addition, some plants such as the dahlia and the sweet potato                
produce an underground storage organ called a tuberous root which               
is often confused with bulbs and tubers. However, these are                     
roots, not stems, and have neither nodes nor internodes.                        
                                                                                
All of these modified stems are useful for propagation. Crowns                  
can be divided with a spade or sharp knife; rhizomes can be                     
divided into pieces; bulbs form small bulblets at the base of the               
parent bulb; cormels are miniature corms that form under the                    
parent corm; and tubers can be cut into pieces containing eyes                  
and nodes.  The key to success with propagation is to make sure                 
that each plant part used, contains a node with buds from which                 
new stems can sprout. Tuberous roots do not have nodes so care                  
must be used in dividing them to make sure that part of the stem                
is included as a source of buds.                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
January 1987  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan, Horticulture                     
Extension Technician, and Liz Warren, Work Study student, working               
with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist Home Horticulture. The                    
Virginia Gardener Question Box has been developed for agent use in              
preparing radio and newspaper features.                                         
                                                                                
24 Hours of Light on Houseplants     31 lines                                   
Espalier of Fruit Trees              63 lines                                   
Building a Greenhouse                53 lines                                   
Changing the pH of Potting Soil      28 lines                                   
Understanding Root Systems           32 lines                                   
Scarifying Seed                      35 lines                                   
Green Thumbs                         39 lines                                   
Light Color and Plant Growth         20 lines                                   
Onions                               18 lines                                   
Spurs                                 9 lines                                   
___________                                                                     
                                                                                
What will 24 hours of light do to my indoor plants?                             
                                                                                
Many plants are grown in office buildings that are lighted for 24               
hours. Different plants react differently to this condition.                    
                                                                                
Most foliage plants grow along the equator, where plants get about              
12 hours of high intensity light year-round. Many of these plants               
grow better under 24 hour light than under 12 hour light as the                 
longer light periods enable plants to compensate for the low                    
intensity of artificial light, by absorbing light over a long period.           
Certain annual bedding plants may receive enough light order to                 
bloom indoors under continuous lighting. Some plants that do                    
particularly well under 24 hour lighting are Swiss cheese plant                 
(Monstera deliciosa), coleus, cissus, schefflera and cacti. Continuous          
light also speeds up growth of many slow growing, flowering plants              
like orchids and cacti. In this way, they can be brought to maturity            
much quicker.                                                                   
                                                                                
Some plants do well either both 12 and 24 hour days, including                  
philodendrons, Engligh ivy, pothos and dieffenbachia. Under                     
continuous lighting, they tend to keep their lower leaves longer.               
Spider plant (Chlorophytum spp) grows best with 12 hours of light.              
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
I recently read about the espalier method of growing fruit trees.               
Can you tell me more about this?                                                
                                                                                
The art of espalier, originated in France and Italy about 400 years             
ago as a method of training fruit trees in a flat plane usually in a            
symetrical form against a wall. There are many different                        
systems. Some are quite elaborate, requiring considerable time and              
patience as well as detailed knowledge of the plant's growth                    
characteristics. The easiest espalier system is the horizontal cordon.          
Apples, pears, and plums adapt well to this system. The trees are               
usually supported by a wall, a fence, or a wire trellis. Training to            
the four-tier cordon or four-wire trellis is relatively easy.                   
                                                                                
An espalier system can provide an effective way of producing a                  
large volume of high quality fruit in a limited area. Trees trained             
in this fashion should be on dwarfing rootstock, otherwise, they                
tend to grow too large and are difficult to hold within bounds.                 
                                                                                
A simple four-wire trellis may be constructed by setting 8' posts 2'            
in the ground, spacing them 12' apart, and running wires through                
the posts at heights of 18, 36, 54, and 72 inches. Plant two                    
unbranched whips of the desired variety 6' apart between each two               
posts.                                                                          
                                                                                
Before growth begins in the spring, cut off the whip just above the             
first bud below the point where the whip crosses the lowest wire.               
Usually three or more shoots will develop near the point of the                 
cut. Retain the uppermost shoot and develop it as the central                   
leader. The other two can be developed into main scaffold branches              
to be trained along the lower wire, one on each side of the central             
stem. Remove all other growth.                                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
The two shoots selected for scaffold limbs should be loosely tied to            
the wire as soon as they are ten to twelve inches long. Twine,                  
plastic chainlink ties, or other suitable material may be used. Tie             
the shoots so that they are nearly horizontal. This reduces                     
vegetative vigor and induces flower bud formation. However, if the              
end of the shoot is tied below the horizontal, new growth at the                
end will stop and vigorous shoots will develop along the upper side.            
At the end of the first season, the lateral branches on the lower               
wire should be established and the central leader should have                   
grown above the second wire.                                                    
                                                                                
During the dormant pruning at the end of the first winter, cut the              
central leader off at a bud just below the second wire. Repeat the              
process of the previous spring by developing two scaffold branches              
to tie to the second wire and allow the central leader to grow                  
above the third wire.                                                           
                                                                                
This process is repeated during the next two seasons, at which time             
a total of eight scaffolds, four on each side of the tree, should be            
firmly established. The leaders should be bent to form one of the               
scaffolds rather than being cut off at the level of the top wire.               
                                                                                
By the end of the fourth season, the trees should be in heavy fruit             
production. All pruning is then done during the spring and summer               
months. After new growth in the spring is about two inches long,                
cut it off and also remove about one-fourth of the previous                     
season's growth. Terminals of the scaffold are left untouched.                  
                                                                                
About the first of August or as soon as new growth reaches ten to               
twelve inches in length, cut it back to two or three buds. Repeat               
about a month later, if necessary. This type of training encourages             
fruit bud formation and prevents vigorous growth from getting out               
of bounds.                                                                      
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
I want to build a greenhouse this summer. Can you tell me how to                
get started on my plans?                                                        
                                                                                
There is an almost overwhelming selection of greenhouses on the                 
market, and plans for building even more types are available.  If               
you intend to purchase or build a greenhouse, it is wise to                     
investigate the alternatives thoroughly, preferably visiting as many            
operating home greenhouses as possible.  List your needs and wants              
ahead of time and determine the uses you will make of your                      
greenhouse.  Then compare on that basis. Many companies will send               
free specifications and descriptions of the greenhouses they offer;             
look in gardening magazines for their ads.                                      
                                                                                
The conservation minded person may find an attached solar                       
greenhouse desirable. The initial cost is generally higher for a solar          
greenhouse than for the simpler free-standing, uninsulated types,               
but for maximum use with lower heating bills, one can insulate                  
north and side walls, provide liberal glass area for winter                     
sun-catching, and make use of some type of solar radiation storage.             
When attached to a house, these greenhouses can be used for                     
supplementary household heating, but there is a trade-off between               
heating the home and growing plants (especially heat-loving ones)               
in the greenhouse.  Some researchers have concluded that a good                 
compromise is to forget winter tomatoes and grow cool-weather                   
crops during the winter in a solar attached greenhouse.  Virginia               
Tech now has a publication, obtainable from your Extension Agent,               
entitled Attached Solar Greenhouses, Publication No. 324-919.                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Should the pH of potting soil be adjusted? The mix I use contains               
a lot of peat moss.                                                             
                                                                                
Many potting mixes are quite acidic (pH 3.5-5.5) because acidic peat            
is a major component of these mixes. You may want to send a                     
sample of your potting mix to the soil testing lab through your                 
local extension agent for analysis.                                             
                                                                                
To raise the pH to a level suitable for most plants, dolomite                   
(limestone containing magnesium), calcium carbonate (lime), or                  
calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime) are generally used. A rule of                 
thumb that can be used is the following: add about 8 pounds of                  
dolomite per cubic yard of potting mix to raise the pH by one unit.             
Twice as much dolomite will not raise the pH by two units as the                
pH scale is not arithmetic.                                                     
                                                                                
Lime is slightly more efficient than dolomite in raising pH.                    
Hydrated lime can be substituted as follows: one teaspoon per                   
gallon of water added to the potting mix sufficiently for thorough              
moistening will raise the pH by a little more than half a unit. If              
necessary, you can do this again after two weeks to raise the pH                
higher. Do not use more than one teaspoon per gallon each time,                 
and be careful to rinse  off any of the solution that gets on the               
plant as it may burn leaves.                                                    
                                                                                
Occasionally, the pH of potting mixes can be too high. If the pH is             
7.5 or above, you can add about one half of a teaspoon of sulfur to             
each 6" pot. Sulfur can be applied as a drench or in granular form.             
Small amounts are available at the drug store.                                  
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
Some trees are easier to transplant than others. I've been told that            
this is related to the type of root system that the plant has. Please           
explain.                                                                        
                                                                                
The primary root originates at the lower end of the embryo of a                 
seedling plant. A taproot is formed when the primary root                       
continues to elongate downward into the soil and becomes the                    
central and most important feature of the root system with a                    
somewhat limited amount of secondary branching. Some trees,                     
especially nut trees like pecan, have a long taproot with very few              
lateral or fibrous roots which causes them to be difficult to                   
transplant and necessitates that they be planted only in deep                   
well-drained soil.                                                              
                                                                                
A fibrous root system is one in which the primary root ceases to                
elongate, and numerous lateral roots develop, which branch                      
repeatedly and form the feeding root system of the plant. The                   
greatest concentration of fibrous roots occurs in the top foot of               
soil, but significant numbers of laterals may grow downward from                
these roots to provide an effective absorption system several feet              
deep. The shallower roots and graeter total surface area of fibrous             
roots make them easier to dig and quicker to recover than                       
taproots.                                                                       
                                                                                
If plants that normally develop a taproot are undercut so that the              
taproot is severed early in the plant's life, the root will lose its            
taproot characteristic and develop a fibrous root system. This is               
done in nurseries so trees have a compact, fibrous root system,                 
allowing higher transplanting success.                                          
                                                                                
As plants become well established, the root system develops                     
laterally and usually extends somewhat beyond the spread of the                 
branches.                                                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
I have tried to germinate Honeylocust seed with no success.  Please             
tell me what I need to do.                                                      
                                                                                
The seed of the honeylocust (Gleditisia triacanthos), like many                 
trees and shrubs is dormant and requires special treatment to                   
encourage germination. One of the functions of dormancy is to                   
prevent a seed from germinating before it is surrounded by a                    
favorable environment. In some trees and shrubs dormancy is                     
difficult to break, even when the environment is ideal. However, in             
the honeylocust dormancy can be broken by the process of seed                   
scarification.                                                                  
                                                                                
Seed scarification involves breaking, scratching or softening the               
seed coat so that water can enter and begin the germination                     
process. There are several methods of scarifying seeds. In acid                 
scarification, seeds are put in a glass container and covered with              
concentrated sulfuric acid at about twice the volume of seed. The               
seeds are gently stirred and allowed to soak from 10 minutes to                 
several hours, depending on the hardness of the seed coat. When                 
the seed coat has become thin, the seeds can be removed, washed                 
and planted. Honeylocust seed need to be soaked 1-2 hours in                    
concentrated sulfuric acid at the rate of one part seed to two parts            
acid.                                                                           
                                                                                
Another scarification method is mechanical. Seeds are filed with a              
metal file, rubbed with sandpaper or cracked with a hammer to                   
weaken the seed coat. Okra seed will germinated more rapidly if                 
treated this way.                                                               
                                                                                
Hot water scarification involves putting the seed into hot water                
(170 - 212 degrees F). The seeds are allowed to soak in the water,              
as it cools, for 12 to 24 hours and then planted. A fourth method               
is one of warm moist scarification. In this case, seeds are stored in           
nonsterile warm damp containers where the seed coat will be                     
broken down by decay over several months.                                       
                                                                                
 --------                                                                       
                                                                                
I have terrible luck with plants both inside and out. Can you tell              
me how I can get a green thumb?                                                 
                                                                                
The real seat of success with plants lies in the heart not the                  
thumb.  If you really love plants, the rest will come naturally. A              
true plant lover is not satisfied simply to have a plant setting in             
the window or growing in the yard but must know all about that                  
plant, its likes and dislikes, the proper way to care for it, the pest          
problems that may occur, the little surprises to anticipate such as             
flowers or berries and the ways to induce the plant to produce its              
best show. A plant lover is sensitive to a plant's appearance and               
the message it relates. Weak and spindly growth says the plant                  
needs more light. A dull and droopy look demands water. Many                    
plant lovers appear to be less successful with the green world than             
they actually are because they care too much and can't discard the              
failures.                                                                       
                                                                                
For those who like to have plants around but don't care to be                   
intimately involved and for those at the opposite extreme who care              
too much, there are a few basic rules to keep plants, indoors and               
out, looking their best.                                                        
                                                                                
First, garden in moderation.  Until you know what you are doing,                
smaller is better than larger, fewer is better than more. If you                
absolutely must root all 16 leaves that have been broken from your              
African violets, give the new plants away.  Since two zucchini                  
plants will supply the neighborhood, avoid the temptation to plant              
20. You don't have to use all the seed in a packet, or all the space            
in the yard.                                                                    
                                                                                
Second, be selective.  Don't take responsibility for every orphan               
plant you see.  Avoid buying plants just because they look good                 
today. Unless, of course, you won't mind tossing them next week                 
when they look bad.  Transitory pleasures have their value too.                 
The right plant for your particular site can be found, one that will            
do what you want it to.  So look a little harder to insure success.             
                                                                                
Finally, maintain a sense of adventure.  Growing plants is fun,                 
challenging, and rewarding as long as it's not taken so seriously as            
to be overwhelming. Let the heart and head do the caring and the                
planning; and the thumb will find success in the garden.                        
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
Does the color of light make any difference in how plants grow?                 
                                                                                
Light quality refers to the color or wavelength reaching the plant              
surface. Sunlight can be broken up by a prism into respective                   
colors of red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet. On a            
rainy day, raindrops act as tiny prisms and break the sunlight into             
these colors, producing a rainbow. Red and blue light have the                  
greatest effect on plant growth. Green light is least effective to              
plants as they reflect green light and absorb none. It is this                  
reflected light that makes them appear green to us. Blue light is               
primarily responsible for vegetative growth or leaf growth. Red                 
light, when combined with blue light, encourages flowering in                   
plants. Fluorescent light or cool white is high in the blue range of            
light quality and is used to encourage leafy growth. Such light                 
would be excellent for starting seedlings. Incandescent light is high           
in the red or orange range, but generally produces too much heat                
to be a valuable light source. Fluorescent grow lights have a                   
mixture of red and blue colors that attempts to imitate sunlight as             
closely as possible, but they are costly and generally not of any               
greater value than regular fluorescent lights.                                  
___________                                                                     
                                                                                
I have not had much success with my onions. How can I improve                   
my luck?                                                                        
                                                                                
Start by growing varieties adapted to Virginia. White Portugal is a             
good white variety but does not keep well. Mustang is a brown                   
onion that stores well after proper curing. Sweet Sandwich is a                 
new variety that stores well and produces large sweet onions                    
similar to the Vadalia from Georgia. Start seed of this variety in              
January indoors and transplant in March or early April.                         
                                                                                
Onions are heavy feeders. Fertilize the growing area, before                    
planting, with a granular 5-10-10 at 5 pounds per 100 square feet.              
Side dress the rows with the 5-10-10 about four weeks later. The                
soil must be light, friable, uncompacted, rich in organic matter and            
well drained. All-day sun, meticulous weed control, a minimum of                
three-inch spacing between plants and lots of water are necessary               
for good bulb formation. Soak the rows slowly and deeply at least               
once a week prior to bulb formation if natural rainfall is                      
inadequate.                                                                     
__________                                                                      
                                                                                
What are spurs?                                                                 
                                                                                
Spurs are short, stubby, side stems that arise from the main stem               
on wood that is at least in its second year of growth. The fruit of             
apples and pears is borne on spurs. An individual spur of the apples            
and pears produces fruit only every other year. However a                       
nutritional imbalance or the distruction of the crop can cause all of           
the spur to produce fruit in the same year and result in biennial               
bearing. If severe pruning is done close to fruit bearing spurs, the            
spurs can revert to a nonfruiting long stem.                                    
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
January 1988  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Ellen M. Silva, Horticulture Extension            
Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist Consumer              
Horticulture, using material provided by John Arbogast, Roanoke City            
Extension Agent.  The Virginia Gardener Question Box has been                   
developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper features.              
                                                                                
Winter Grass Seeding						25 lines                                              
Fertilizer and Herbicide for Fall Seeded Lawns	43 lines                         
Shiny Coating on Weeping Fig Leaves			29 lines                                  
Vegetable Garden Weed Control					50 lines                                      
Pruning Overgrown Apple Trees					26 lines                                      
Lawn Maintenance Chores						54 lines                                           
Chiggers									27 lines                                                       
Pruning Clematis							39 lines                                                 
                                                                                
***********                                                                     
 I need some recommendations on turf seeding now.  What is your                 
opinion on winter grass seeding over a thin lawn?                               
                                                                                
The soil needs to be at least moderately warm in order for seed to              
germinate. For instance, Kentucky bluegrass requires a temperature of           
43 degrees F. for 50% germination, and tall fescue requires 55 degrees          
F. for the same germination rate.  Thus, this is not a good time to             
sow permanent grass seed since it is unlikely that many of the seeds            
will before the seed rots.                                                      
                                                                                
You may have heard about farmers scattering seed over their pastures            
in mid winter so that the ground freezing and changing will provide             
openings for the seed. This practice, even in mid winter, is not a              
good idea for homeowners, where we want a thick, dense turf.  Too many          
of the seeds may be washed away or injured before good weather and              
germination. For pastures, a thick, carpet-like stand of grass is not           
the object. Therefore, if the winter seeding produces a few new plants          
per 1,000 square feet, the farmer may consider his time well spent.             
                                                                                
The next good lawn-seeding time for us here in Virginia will be in              
late March and early to mid April.  If March is still cool and very             
wet, wait until April when the seed will germinate quickly and not rot          
or die.                                                                         
                                                                                
 -------------------------------                                                
I have an area of new grass seeded this fall that has not been                  
fertilized except for 5-10-10 when I seeded. When should I put the              
10-10-10 on it? Also, when can I put weed killer on this area for               
leafy weeds?                                                                    
                                                                                
Any later than mid-January is not a good time to apply additional               
fertilizer on grass.  You can make a light application of a turf-type           
fertilizer in late May or early June since your new grass was not               
fertilized again in the fall.  This would be after the normally                 
occurring spring  period of lush growth on bluegrasses and fescues.             
                                                                                
A high nitrogen fertilizer is considered best for turf since growing            
grass plants need more of this nutrient than they do of the other               
essential nutrients.  On an established lawn, you should use any of             
the turf-type fertilizers rather than the 10-10-10 that you                     
mentioned.  Turf or lawn fertilizer has a large first number, which             
gives the percentage of nitrogen, and smaller numbers for the other             
nutrients.  However, nothing is wrong with 10-10-10 in a new seeding            
situation.  When soil test show that your soil has reached high                 
phosphorous and potassium levels it is time to switch to a turf-type            
fertilizer.                                                                     
                                                                                
There are several brands of turf fertilizers on the market.  It is              
important that all directions be followed on which-ever you use.  Keep          
in mind that the Virginia Tech turf fertilizer recommendations for              
bluegrasses and fescues suggest only a LIGHT application of nitrogen            
(0 to 1/2 lb. N/1000 sq. ft. or approximately 5 lbs. of 10-10-10 per            
1000 sq. ft.) in the spring.                                                    
                                                                                
The application of a broad-leaf weed control product on new turf                
should be determined by the strength of the new grass plants.  The              
usual recommendation for most weed killers is to wait until the new             
grass has grown enough to require 3 regular mowings.                            
                                                                                
For many leafy weeds in grass, the months of April and May are good             
times for chemical application.  Thus, if the growth of this new grass          
appears tender until mid spring, there will still be time for your              
herbicide use.                                                                  
                                                                                
Just a little pointer - the mild weather and the tender new growth of           
landscape plants in the spring greatly increases the chances of weed            
killer drift injury to desireable plants at that time.  So, be extra            
careful.                                                                        
                                                                                
 ----------------------------                                                   
I have a fairly large weeping fig plant in my house that has developed          
a clear, shiny coating on many of the leaves.  The plant still looks            
good.  Is this something to worry about?                                        
                                                                                
The shiny coating on the weeping fig leaves may be a                            
residue left behind from aphids feeding (sucking) on the newer growth;          
scale insects can also leave clear secretions.  Sap that has been               
secreted from the leaves may also be the cause of the coating.  Look            
closely at the plant to seek clues.                                             
                                                                                
The aphids that can get on an indoor plant are often a light green              
color.  Since they love to get around the most tender parts of a                
plant, they may be noticed around the ends of the branches.  Also,              
look on the underside of leaves.  Scale insects look like tiny disks            
and can be either on the leaves or the stems.  The actual insect is             
under the disk.                                                                 
                                                                                
If you detect aphids on your plant, wash them off using soapy water.            
Do not use detergent as this may damage plant tissue, and be sure to            
rinse the plant well.  Scale insects are more difficult to eliminate            
as they can only be killed while in their crawler stage, when they are          
not protected by their hard scale.  Prune off and dispose of any                
affected leaves and branches.  If this in not possible, use one of the          
ready-made house plant insecticides sold at some garden centers or              
hardware stores.  These materials made for house plants should be safe          
for indoor use, but be sure to follow all label directions.  Repeat             
either treatment in about 7 days for complete control.                          
                                                                                
Since you mentioned that your fig still looks good, you may not have            
anything to worry about.  However, keep a continued watch for changes           
in the plant.                                                                   
                                                                                
 ---------------------------------                                              
What do you recommend to help control weeds in a vegetable garden,              
such as a wettable or dry chemical?                                             
                                                                                
In most home garden situations, it is more practical and also safer to          
use cultural methods of weed control rather than chemicals.  A hoe and          
rototiller are very effective if the weeds are controlled when small            
(in the seedling stage).                                                        
                                                                                
Mulching is a very good practice for weed control in a home vegetable           
garden.  The garden mulch could be several layers of newspaper,                 
shredded or whole leaves saved from the preceding fall, grass                   
clippings from a lawn that hasn't been treated with herbicides, or              
black plastic.                                                                  
                                                                                
Never allow weeds in and around the garden to go to seed, creating              
more severe weed problems for the years ahead.  When a crop is                  
harvested, cultivate that area to prevent weeds there from maturing             
and seeding.  If you can't till at once, run the lawn mower over the            
area.                                                                           
                                                                                
Most of the weed killers cleared for use in vegetable crops are                 
designed for commercial vegetable production, not the home garden.              
Chemicals that we can buy to control broadleaf weeds in turf or                 
landscape situations will injure most vegetable crops.  Few herbicides          
are safe on the wide range of species grown in a vegetable garden.              
                                                                                
DCPA is a preemergent herbicide that is cleared for use by the EPA on           
a wide variety of home grown vegetables.  It is sold under the trade            
name Dacthal and also under other trade names such as Ortho Garden              
Weed Preventer.  When purchasing DCPA under other trade names, make             
sure that the words "Dacthal", "DCPA", or "dimethyl                             
tetrachloroterephthalate" appear under the heading "active                      
ingredients".  DCPA is available in small quantities suitable for the           
home user.  It can also be used to control crabgrass in lawns and many          
ornamentals, including a wide range of bedding plants.  Since DCPA is           
a preemergence herbicide, it kills weeds as their seeds germinate but           
does not affect emerged weeds.  In other words, it affects the                  
germination process.                                                            
                                                                                
DCPA remains in the soil for about 8 weeks.  Thus, repeat treatments            
are necessary for season-long weed prevention.  Recommendations for             
timing of the DCPA application with regards to the age or seeding of            
individual vegetables are given on the product label.  DCPA is not              
cleared for use on okra, sweet corn, carrots, or beets.                         
                                                                                
(Trade names are used for illustrative purposes only.  No                       
discrimination is intended against trade names not mentioned.)                  
                                                                                
 -----------------------------                                                  
When is it OK to prune apple trees?  We recently acquired some                  
property with a few very overgrown apple trees on it.                           
                                                                                
Pruning of older, fruit-bearing apple trees can be done now since tree          
dormancy is one of the criteria for fruit tree pruning.  However,               
young, non-bearing apple trees should not be pruned until late                  
February to minimize the chances of winter injury.                              
                                                                                
One of the important reasons for pruning bearing fruit trees is to let          
sunlight into the tree areas, since light is the source of energy that          
produces the crop.  Bearing wood that is shaded is low in vigor and             
produces small, poorly colored fruits.  Good light exposure is                  
necessary for the development of flower buds as well as optimum size,           
color, and sugar content of the fruit.                                          
                                                                                
When pruning an apple tree also remove crossing branches, vigorous              
watersprouts (branches that go straight up), and diseased or damaged            
wood.                                                                           
                                                                                
Since you mentioned that you have a couple very overgrown apple trees,          
plan your work so that you remove no more than 1 or 2 large limbs per           
year.  If you see that large amounts of pruning are required, plan to           
spread this over a 2 or 3 year period so that excessive suckers or              
weak growth are not stimulated from over pruning.                               
                                                                                
 --------------------------                                                     
Can you give me a schedule for performing the following yard tasks?             
	1.  Herbicide application to kill broad-leaf weeds.                            
	2.  Herbicide application to kill crabgrass.                                   
	3.  Sowing new lawn seed.                                                      
	4.  Lawn fertilization.                                                        
I would like to get these all done in a few weeks in the spring and             
have them out of the way.                                                       
                                                                                
Unfortunately, it is not possible to go out and do all the things in            
your list in 1 or 2 weeks and get the lawn work out of mind for the             
year.  We can look at your list and discuss which things can be done            
in conjunction with other jobs to eliminate some repetition.                    
                                                                                
First, nitrogen fertilization of a bluegrass or fescue turf in the              
spring is optional in the Virginia Tech suggestions.  Fall is the               
proper time to make 2 or 3 applications of a high nitrogen fertilizer           
(20-10-10) to these grasses  for maximum storage the nutrients can be           
stored and so the root growth will not be hindered.  In LATE spring, a          
SMALL application (2 1/2 lbs. 20-10-10 per 1000 sq. ft.) of nitrogen            
fertilizer can be applied to bluegrass or fescue if that will make a            
person feel better, but too much and too early will lead to a lot of            
spring mowing and possibly to summer problems.                                  
                                                                                
Most common broad-leaf weed killers for lawns have a precaution about           
applying within several weeks before and after sowing new grass seed.           
However, late March and/or early April are optimum for the spring lawn          
seeding time and April and May are the months for broad-leaf lawn weed          
control in the spring.  You can seed as needed at the proper time and           
then make an application of Bromoxynil shortly after, since it is               
recommended to control young broad-leaf weed seedlings in newly seeded          
turf.  This chemical is sold as Nu-Lawn Weeder, Brominal, Buctril, and          
other trade names.                                                              
                                                                                
The recommended way to deal with crabgrass in lawns is to apply a               
crabgrass preventer (pre-emergent herbicide) in late winter or early            
spring (usually by April 1) before crabgrass emergence.  This can               
interfere with spring lawn seeding; however, there is the pre-emergent          
herbicide called Siduron (sold as Tupersan) that can be applied at the          
time of bluegrass, fescue, or perennial ryegrass seeding.  This                 
chemical kills the annual weedy grasses (like crabgrass) but does not           
affect the germination of the lawn grass seed mentioned.                        
                                                                                
Keep in mind that these special products like Bromoxynil and Siduron            
may cost more than chemicals that don't have the features you want.             
                                                                                
(Note:  Trade names are given for illustrative purposes only.  No               
discrimination is intended against trade names not given.)                      
 -------------------------------                                                
I think that I got chiggers in October from pulling up salad greens             
out of my garden in the back yard.  Or, could I have gotten them from           
being in the grass when I was hanging up clothes?  I've lived here for          
27 years and never before had anything like this.  If it is my garden,          
what could I spray with that would not hurt planting of a garden next           
year?                                                                           
                                                                                
The location where you got the chiggers (or where they got you) was             
most likely where there was tall grass, weeds, and/or brambles                  
around.                                                                         
                                                                                
Chiggers, or red bugs, are the immature (larval) stage of a small               
family of mites.  Adults lay eggs in the spring and the larva hatches           
from the egg in a few days in a hungry condition.  Thus, "chigger               
season" in Virginia begins in June and runs until early fall.                   
                                                                                
During the summer, Diazinon or other recommended chemicals can be used          
to treat grassy areas for chiggers, especially those areas that are             
not regularly mowed.  This recommendation is for during the summer,             
not now.  Also, mow areas around the house and avoid the areas                  
mentioned where chiggers are likely during the summer.                          
                                                                                
To prevent chiggers from attacking, there are a variety of insect               
repellents that can be used before you go into those areas of risk.             
                                                                                
 ----------------------------------                                             
Should clematis be cut back to the ground after the plant has turned            
all brown in the winter?                                                        
                                                                                
There are many clematis varieties that can be grown in Virginia, and            
the growth habit and flowering time determine the proper pruning time.          
However, pruning any clematis all the way back to the ground would              
likely be too severe.                                                           
                                                                                
The Jackmanii group of clematis hybrids is made of varieties that               
produce flowers on new growth in mid and late summer with some of the           
varieties even flowering until frost.  Because of this growth habit,            
stems of clematis in this group can be cut back to within two to four           
feet above the ground in late winter.  Suggested cultivars are `Alba'           
and `Rubra'.                                                                    
                                                                                
Hybrids in the Lanuginosa clematis group will flower in June if a               
major portion of the old growth is left unpruned in the spring.                 
However, if the stems of one of these clematis hybrids are cut back to          
within two to four feet of the ground in the spring, new shoots will            
grow quickly and abundant blooms will occur later in the summer.                
`Henryi' and `King Edward VII' are recommended cultivars.                       
                                                                                
Clematis varieties in the Patens group usually flower on the previous           
years' wood in the spring and/or early summer.  This means that a               
pruning would remove flower buds and eliminate the blooming for the             
year.  With these spring bloomers, the only pruning done in the winter          
is to prune out dead and broken growth.  Then, after flowering, a               
portion of old shoots should be cut back severely to encourage new              
growth that will be the flowering wood for the following spring.                
`Miss Bateman' and `Nelly Moser' are popular cultivars from this                
group.                                                                          
                                                                                
There is another summer flowering clematis group called the Viticella           
group that you may notice in garden literature.  Since this also                
flowers in the summer, clematis varieties in this group can be pruned           
back hard in the spring just like the Jackmanii group.group.  Recommended       
cultivars are `Huldine' and `Ville de Lyon'.                                    
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Monthly Notes July 1986                                                         
                                                                                
* Turning cabbage a quarter to a half turn if they start to crack               
will reduce water uptake. Or, use a shovel to cut through the                   
roots on one side of the plant. If that doesn't work, better                    
harvest them.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Plant Chinese cabbage in July about 90 days before the average                
date of the first fall frost in your locality. This will allow                  
crisp, firm heads to form in the cool days of early autumn.                     
                                                                                
* Fall is the best time to grow Brussels sprouts, since their                   
flavor is enhanced by a mild frost. Sow seeds directly in the                   
garden early in the month, or set out transplants. Brussels                     
sprouts are heavy feeders, so make monthly applications of                      
5-10-10 from the time the plants are 4" tall. Apply at a rate of                
1/2 cup per square yard.                                                        
                                                                                
* Strawberries need summer care. If you have your plants in                     
hills, pick off all runners. But if you planted a matted row,                   
encourage the runners to root and grow until the row is 2 feet                  
wide.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Store pesticides in a safe place in their original containers,                
away from children and pets. Use pesticides carefully in your                   
garden. Read the labels and follow the directions. The warnings                 
and precautions are for your protection.                                        
                                                                                
* Dry flowers now for use in arrangements next winter. Early                    
season blooms are better for this purpose than those that develop               
in late summer. Flowers for drying should be cut during midday,                 
in the late bud or early bloom stage.                                           
                                                                                
* Mulching herbs during hot weather protects the plant roots                    
and helps keep them healthy. Perennial herbs also need mulch                    
in the fall for protection from winter thaws and freezing.                      
                                                                                
* Japanese beetle traps should be placed at some distance from                  
the plants they are meant to protect. If placed nearby, beetles                 
lured by the trap will feed heavily on plants attractive to                     
them in the vicinity of the trap.                                               
                                                                                
* Hot, dry weather brings out the red spiders. Inspect roses,                   
evergreens, and marigolds, especially for signs of pale green                   
coloration. Hold a white sheet of paper underneath some foliage                 
and briskly tap it. Tiny, crawling mites will appear on the                     
paper if they are present. Severely infested annual plants may                  
be removed from the garden and destroyed. Others should be                      
chemically treated. If infestation is light, mites may be                       
discouraged by direct needle-like spray from the water hose.                    
                                                                                
* Moss in shady areas of lawns is a common problem brought on                   
by poorly-drained, compacted soil. Opening the soil with an                     
aeration machine allows more air and fertilizer to reach plant                  
roots.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Get a second bloom from faded annuals by cutting them back                    
to half their height; then fertilize with 1/2 cup 5-10-10 per                   
square yard of planted area, and apply a generous layer of                      
mulch.                                                                          
                                                                                
* If your annuals are dead, pull them out and add them to                       
the compost pile. You can replant beds with hardy annuals or                    
biennials, such as pansies, calendulas, globe thistle, or sea                   
pinks.                                                                          
                                                                                
* The soil in container grown vegetables and flowers can dry                    
out very quickly especially on a concrete patio in full sun.                    
Daily watering may be necessary. However, the soil should not be                
soggy or have water standing on top of it. Apply water until it                 
runs out the drainage holes. Clay pots have additional evapora-                 
tion from the sides and watering must be done more often. Small                 
pots dry out quicker than large window boxes. Check your contain-               
ers at least once a day and twice on hot, dry days. Feel the soil               
to see whether or not it is damp.                                               
                                                                                
* Protect plants in containers from very high heat caused by                    
light reflection from pavement. Move them to a cooler spot or                   
shade them during the hottest part of the day. Plants may be                    
moved to a more sheltered location during severe rain or wind                   
storms or as protection from the first fall frosts.                             
                                                                                
* July is a good time to begin looking for native and wild plants               
from which you can collect seed pods to use this fall and                       
winter. Be on the lookout for such material as dock, dried corn                 
tassels, and seed pods from locust, redbud, chaste tree, yellow                 
poplar and cattails.                                                            
                                                                                
* Chinese cabbage, if you are not familiar with it, does not                    
taste at all like regular cabbage. Its pleasant piquant taste                   
and texture are well-suited to salads and to cooking. Lightly                   
steamed and buttered Chinese cabbage is a delicacy. The best                    
planting time for Chinese cabbage is after July 1; plants will                  
mature when days are becoming progressively shorter and cooler.                 
Plants will head rather than shooting up flowers.                               
                                                                                
* July is an excellent month to root cuttings of such houseplants               
as coleus, fuchsia, geranium, gynura, poinsettia, shrimp plant,                 
Swedish ivy, wandering jew, wax plant, and other plants with                    
succulent (non-woody) stems.                                                    
                                                                                
* Continue to make successive plantings of crops like beans,                    
beets, cabbage, and sweet corn, to provide a continuous harvest                 
until fall. A small garden will produce a large quantity of                     
vegetables if replanting is done throughout the summer.                         
                                                                                
* Tall flowers should be staked to prevent damage by wind. Use                  
stakes which are large enough to support the plant but are not                  
too conspicuous. Use soft twine or the easy-twist tape and wire                 
ties.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Water early in the morning so that the least amount of water                  
will be lost to evaporation. This is particularly important                     
if you use overhead sprinklers. Morning watering is preferred                   
to evening watering as this allows an opportunity for the leaves                
to dry completely. Wet leaves at night encourage disease buildup.               
                                                                                
* Sidedress crops like corn and cabbage with 2 pounds of 5-10-5                 
per 50 feet of row about a month after growth starts. Scatter                   
the fertilizer between the rows and scratch into the soil with                  
a rake. If your garden is on an infertile sandy soil, sidedress                 
all of your vegetables to promote vigorous growth.                              
                                                                                
* Implement all the best cultural practices to reduce pest                      
problems but be prepared to spray as needed to control insects                  
and diseases. Some spraying or dusting usually is necessary to                  
insure the production of healthful, high-quality vegetables.                    
                                                                                
* Stop vine crops from taking over your garden or lawn by                       
pinching off the fuzzy growing tips. This also directs the                      
plant's energy into ripening fruit rather than producing more                   
vine.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Keep peas, beans, and berries cool while you pick them by                     
spreading a damp cloth over your harvest basket.                                
                                                                                
* Harvest your vegetables at the peak of maturity. One of the                   
most important advantages of the home garden is the opportunity                 
to have high quality vegetables. Don`t allow them to become                     
too old before you pick them. Harvest summer squash when about                  
6 inches long. Pick sweet corn just before it is to be used. If                 
it is held under warm conditions, the sugar changes to starch                   
and the corn is much poorer in quality.                                         
                                                                                
* Fireblight on apple and pear trees can be identified by looking               
for  blackened twigs and branches. The disease will spread                      
and kill the tree if not controlled. Remove all blighted twigs,                 
cutting below the infected area. Disinfect pruning tools after                  
each cut to prevent spread. Dip blades in a solution of 1 part                  
household bleach to 9 parts water.                                              
                                                                                
* Water your plants several hours before applying pesticides,                   
especially during dry weather. Drought-stressed plants have                     
less water in their plant tissues, and the chemicals that enter                 
the leaves will consequently be more concentrated and may burn                  
the leaves.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Light sprinkling is often harmful, especially on lawns. Proper                
watering means soaking. Soak the soil to the bottom of the                      
roots. Investigate automatic watering devices.                                  
                                                                                
* Now is the time to begin to sow cover crops between rows and                  
in vacated beds. Sow clover, rye and vetch. These, dug under                    
later, will return humus and nitrates to the soil.                              
                                                                                
* If the Sweet peas are heavily mulched, their roots will be kept               
cooler and their season prolonged. Use rough plant litter or                    
grass clippings. A little shade at midday will help to maintain                 
the quality of the flowers and prolong the season.                              
                                                                                
* When growth has stopped and vanished foliage indicates a                      
dormant condition, dig up a good root each of Bleedingheart,                    
Anchusa, Oriental Poppy. Cut these long roots into 1-2 inch                     
pieces and plant them in a mixture of sand and rich loam. Keep                  
the area fairly moist and soon tiny leaves will shoot up. The new               
plants will be ready for permanent quarters in the spring.                      
                                                                                
* Many plants are easily increased by layering. Verbenas, pinks                 
euonymus, pachysandra, ivy, daphne, climbing roses, in fact, all                
the things with reaching runners will probably take root if                     
fastened down on soft earth with a wire and covered with some                   
good soil.                                                                      
                                                                                
* For the largest flowers, the main stems of the dahlias should                 
be kept free of side shoots. In larger varieties, a single stalk                
is the best. Some sort of adequate support must be provided to                  
prevent storm breakage. Water well.                                             
                                                                                
* Cutting flowers is best done with a sharp shears or knife,                    
taking care to avoid injury to the growing plant by having tools                
sharp. A special pair of cutting scissors may be bought which                   
holds the cut-off stem, allowing the removal to be a one handed                 
operation. It is best to carry a bucket of water to the garden,                 
rather than the familiar cutting basket. A slanting cut will                    
expose a larger absorbing surface and will prevent the base of                  
the stem being sealed by resting upon the bottom of the vase.                   
                                                                                
* Ornamental kales and cabbage are among the showiest of all                    
winter plants and as the weather cools, the color intensifies.                  
Transplants of these improbably beautiful winter ornamentals are                
available at garden centers and nurseries now.                                  
                                                                                
* Clean greenhouse walls and under benches. Wash empty pots.                    
Change soil in benches. Spray to eliminate disease next winter.                 
                                                                                
* Sow seeds of hollyhocks, English daisies, foxgloves, violas,                  
Canterbury bells and Sweet Williams for next year`s bloom.                      
                                                                                
* Root holly, azalea, and camellia cuttings in a sand and peat                  
moss mixture, set in a cool, shady location. Ivy and periwinkle                 
can be rooted now to fill in any bare spots in your beds. Don`t                 
allow cuttings to dry out.                                                      
                                                                                
* During the hot dry summer set out a container of water to                     
attract birds to your garden.                                                   
                                                                                
* In response to the trend toward smaller gardens, new climbing                 
roses are being bred. The new climbers grow only 6 to 8 feet                    
tall and need little or no pruning. Look for cultivars such as                  
'Swan Lake' (creamy white), 'Spectra' (gold with red flush) and                 
'Rosarium Uetersen' (deep pink).                                                
                                                                                
* High temperatures accelerate respiration and evaporation from                 
cut flowers. Your refrigerator may be used to temporarily hold                  
floral arrangements if the temperature is no less than 40                       
degrees F, and if no fruit is stored in the cooler. Temperatures                
below 40 degrees F and ethylene gas given off by ripening fruit                 
can injury the petals of many flowers.                                          
                                                                                
* A cool basement will also work for temporary flower storage.                  
Remember to mist arrangements several times a day.                              
                                                                                
* Gerbera flowers (African daisy) can last up to two weeks in a                 
vase if the water is kept clean. Since gerbera stems are hairy                  
and easily dirty the water, do not immerse them more than a few                 
inches. Change the water every two days.                                        
                                                                                
* Divide and transplant bearded iris using the vigorous ends                    
of the rhizomes. Discard the old center portion. Cut the leaves                 
back to about 8" long. Do not worry about wounding the roots;                   
wounding actually encourages flowering.                                         
                                                                                
* In dry times, trees may shed up to 10% of their leaves to                     
reduce water loses through transpiration. This leaf loss causes                 
little or no harm.                                                              
                                                                                
* Inner leaves and twigs of trees normally drop from lack of                    
sunlight, but clusters of leaves attached to short twigs may                    
result from insect or squirrel activity. Girdling insects make                  
shallow, encircling depressions, while twigs broken by squirrels                
have diagonally several ends.                                                   
                                                                                
* Ripening grape clusters may be covered with brown paper or                    
polyethylene bags, or nylon netting to reduce bird damage. If                   
bags are used, make ventilation holes in the bottom of the bags.                
                                                                                
* Blueberry bushes also need to be covered with plastic netting                 
or fine cloth (tobacco cloth) to control birds. When harvesting                 
blueberries, remember to allow berries to remain on the plants                  
for 3-5 days after they turn blue. Waiting several days allows                  
berries to reach their maximum sugar content.                                   
                                                                                
* Gardeners in the mountainous regions of Virginia start planting               
fall vegetables this month. Request publication 426-334 Fall                    
Vegetable Gardening from your extension agent or The Virginia                   
Gardener for guidelines on planning and planting fall crops.                    
                                                                                
* In summer, dry soil may make working the soil difficult and                   
inhibit seed germination. Plant your fall vegetables when the                   
soil is moist after a rain, or water the area thoroughly the day                
before you plant. Seeds may be planted in a shallow trench to                   
conserve moisture. Cover the seeds about twice as deeply as you                 
do in the spring. Early maturing varieties are best for late                    
plantings.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Continue attracting insect eating birds to the garden area by                 
providing them a fresh water source.                                            
                                                                                
* Bromeliads are being promoted as new indoor plants. They are                  
ideal in the home because they tolerate low light conditions.                   
                                                                                
* Check the soil moisture of container grown vegetables and                     
flowers daily. As the temperature rises, some plants may need                   
water twice daily.                                                              
                                                                                
* Petunias vary their growth habit according to temperature and                 
daylength. At temperature of 62 degrees F and below, petunias                   
will be branched, bushy, compact and multiflowered. From 63 to                  
75 degrees, daylength affects their growth habit. If plants                     
receive less than 12 hours of sunlight at these temperatures,                   
petunias will be single stemmed and have only a single flower.                  
Over 75 degrees F, daylength has no effect and plants will always               
be tall, leggy and bear few flowers.                                            
                                                                                
* To encourage petunias to branch, pinch them at planting time                  
and again in mid-July. During July, cut them off about 3" to 4"                 
above ground level. Weed, fertilize and clean up around them. The               
next pinching should take place in mid-August, and the last,                    
during early September.                                                         
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Press Releases July 1986                                                        
                                                                                
Growing Onions                             62 lines                             
A Close Look at the Garden                 82 lines                             
Renovating Strawberries                    60 lines                             
Harvesting Vegetables                     120 lines                             
Geraniums                                  75 lines                             
                                                                                
                                                                                
Growing Onions                                                                  
                                                                                
Several different types of onions grow well in Virginia home                    
vegetable gardens.                                                              
                                                                                
The Egyptian onion, also known as the walking onion or tree                     
onion, is a perennial onion. It bears flowers on tall stalks,                   
which are later followed by small bulb-like structures called                   
bulbils. These tiny bulbs can be eaten, or may be replanted to                  
increase the size of the onion patch. If the plants are left                    
unattended, the stalks bend to the ground, the bulbs root                       
and seemingly "walk" through  your garden.                                      
                                                                                
Egyptian onions require little care and will grow almost any-                   
where. The best time to plant them is from the middle of August                 
to November so the plants can get a good start before winter. For               
best results, the ground should be prepared by mixing in generous               
quantities of compost.                                                          
                                                                                
All parts of the Egypian onion are edible at some time. The top                 
bulbs can be used cooked or raw for flavoring. Once dried, they                 
keep very well. The new green tips can substitute for chives. The               
white lower stalks can be chopped raw in a salad. Even the                      
coarser stalks can be added to a favorite stew.                                 
                                                                                
Another perennial onion is the Welsh onion. This onion produces                 
no true bulbs, but the leaves and stems are used for flavoring.                 
Compared to common onions, the flavor is quite mild and sweet.                  
Welsh onion seed can be planted in rows or beds in spring. They                 
will usually thrive in ordinary soil.                                           
                                                                                
Shallots can be used like green onions, or they can be allowed to               
mature into dry bulbs. As with other onions, there is no need to                
worry about light frosts on shallots. They are quite hardy and                  
resistant to cold.                                                              
                                                                                
In most of Virginia, shallots are planted in spring. In warm                    
areas, you may plant them in fall for winter and spring harvest.                
Bury the clove to half its depth, then firm the soil around it                  
making sure the top remains uncovered. Place the cloves at four                 
to six inch intervals in rows that are nine inches apart. After                 
five or six shoots have developed, mulch with straw, leaves, or                 
dry, unfinished compost. Too heavy a mulch will encourage onion                 
maggots and root rot. If grown in a well-drained, sunny location,               
shallots should not suffer from pest or disease damage.                         
                                                                                
Leeks are low in calories and care, and high in vitamins and                    
flavor. Leeks have a long history of being grown in Europe,                     
but they are not as popular in the United States.                               
                                                                                
Like shallots, leeks are generally grown from seeds. Because                    
they have a long growing season (four to five months), they                     
should be sown as early in spring as possible. In the colder                    
parts of the state it is beneficial to start seeds indoors. The                 
plants are very hardy; they can be harvested well into winter.                  
                                                                                
Although the leek is a member of the onion family, it does                      
not develop a true bulb; it grows straight from the neck to                     
the root. The white stems grow to be two inches thick and between               
six and eight inches long, with large, flat, grey-green tops                    
over a foot high. Leeks grow in just about any climate, but                     
require high fertility.                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
A Close Look at the Garden                                                      
                                                                                
Somewhere between the first burst of enthusiasm in the spring                   
and the heat of July, many gardeners tend to lose track of their                
gardens. After the initial soil preparation and sowing of seed,                 
they quit looking to the earth and see only the products from                   
the garden.                                                                     
                                                                                
Believing well-laid plans were properly implemented in the                      
spring, most gardeners are ready to reap the harvest. Rarely do                 
they review those plans to verify their effectiveness. To become                
a more effective gardener, make notes throughout the growing                    
season. At different times of day, take a note pad to the garden.               
Look and record what you see.                                                   
                                                                                
Look at the soil. A key to successful gardening is well-prepared                
soil rich in organic material. Does the soil dry too fast or stay               
water-logged for long periods of time? Has it developed a rich,                 
crumbly texture that makes it a pleasure to work? If it hasn't                  
reached the ideal condition, then there is more work to do.                     
                                                                                
If you have not had a soil test in several years, contact your                  
local Extension agent and do one now. If lime is required to                    
raise the pH, it should be applied in the fall to affect the                    
next year's garden. Till two inches of compost or four to six                   
inches of organic material into your garden this fall. Don't                    
leave it on the surface until spring, as that will slow down                    
the warming of the soil and will not enrich it as much as it                    
could were it tilled in.                                                        
                                                                                
Last spring when you planted the garden, there were no leaves                   
on the trees. Notice now where their shadows fall. Are any                      
of the taller vegetables casting shade on others? Design next                   
year's garden now to provide at least between six and eight                     
hours of full sun to the fruiting crops. Plan for leafy greens                  
in the semi-shade and tall crops and trellises to the north                     
end of the garden to reduce shading.                                            
                                                                                
After watering, the soil should be moist to a depth of at least                 
eight inches to insure deep root penetration. This requires                     
approximately one inch of water. If, your soil is not damp                      
at root depth, evaluate your watering technique.                                
                                                                                
A handheld hose delivers water at such a high rate that it                      
creates runoff before water can penetrate deeply. This partially                
can be overcome by burying a gallon can full of holes near larger               
plants such as tomatoes, and filling it with water for slow                     
seepage.                                                                        
                                                                                
Unfortunately, a greet deal of sprinkler water is lost to                       
evaporation and muddy pathways. Consider a trickle irrigation                   
system where the water removed from the soil by plants is                       
replaced daily. Most home systems will last about three years,                  
reduce water use and significantly increase yield.                              
                                                                                
Much of the work on the garden can be reduced by the proper                     
use of mulch. A good mulch such as leaves or straw helps maintain               
soil moisture, while a poor one such as fresh sawdust or peat                   
crusts and reduces water penetration. Avoid using grass clippings               
from lawns that have been treated with weed killer.                             
                                                                                
The bottom line of success in the garden for most of us is the                  
genuine satisfation we gain from producing some of our food.                    
If your yield is not what you expect, look over your garden                     
practices. If the peppers and tomatoes are vigorous but have no                 
fruit, you may have overfertilized with nitrogen. Low cucurbits                 
yields may be traced to poor bee pollination, perhaps due to                    
indiscriminate use of carbaryl insecticide which kill bees                      
as well as pests.                                                               
                                                                                
If the lettuce is bitter and your broccoli in bloom, you just                   
waited too late to harvest and they succumbed to summer heat.                   
Poor corn development may result from planting in single rows                   
instead of blocks of four or more rows to insure good wind polli-               
nation.                                                                         
                                                                                
If squash is woody, tomatoes rotting on the vine, and green                     
beans too old to snap, you probably planted too much. Reduce                    
the size of the garden and plant flowers, or invite friends                     
over to help with the harvest. Either way, you add a new dimen-                 
sion to the joy of gardening.                                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
Renovating Strawberries                                                         
                                                                                
Renovation of the strawberry patch is greeted with less enthu-                  
siasm than many other tasks in the garden. One has the feeling                  
that to delay the renovation will somehow lengthen the year's                   
harvest another day or another week. The best time to get your                  
berries ready for good yield next year, however, is to start as                 
soon as this year's harvest is complete.                                        
                                                                                
If your strawberry planting has made vigorous growth and is                     
free of weeds, it is a relatively simple task to rejuvenate it.                 
Remove the mulch and clip the tops of the plants to about one                   
inch above the crowns with a scythe or mower. Be careful not                    
to cut into the crown (the heavy growth point) at ground level.                 
If the crown is damaged, the plant may not recover.                             
                                                                                
If insects and foliage diseases are prevalent, dispose of the                   
leaves and mulch material. Apply a quickly soluble nitrogen                     
fertilizer such as nitrate of soda at the rate of 1/2 to 3/4                    
pounds per 100 feet of row to encourage vigorous top growth.                    
If nitrogen of soda is not readily available, you can substitute                
three pounds of 5-10-5 or 1.5 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer                     
per 100 square feet broadcast over the entire planting. Rototill                
or dig between the rows to incorporate the fertilizer and mulch                 
into the top few inches of soil.                                                
                                                                                
If the matted row is quite thick, the plants may require thin-                  
ning. After new foliage appears, thin the plants to six to eight                
inches apart leaving the strongest, most vigorous plants. Keep                  
the planting cultivated throughout the summer and irrigate when                 
necessary during dry periods to keep plants growing vigorously.                 
Fertilize again in the fall and renew mulch after freezing                      
weather begins.                                                                 
                                                                                
Early next spring, it would be a good idea to start a new                       
strawberry patch so that you can turn the one you renovated this                
year into a fall garden or plant a cover crop in its place. Two                 
really good harvests are about all you can expect from one patch                
so it's nice to have another one ready.                                         
                                                                                
Some people report maintaining the same patch for many years.                   
Either they have been incredibly fortunate with insects and                     
disease and have the most unbelievable soil in the area, or they                
have become accustomed to poor quality and low yield, and                       
forgotten that things can be much better.                                       
                                                                                
Don't try to scavenge plants from last year's beds to start                     
a new patch. Old plants will likely infest the bed with red                     
stele or other diseases and insects. Instead, order disease-free                
plants and experiment with new varieties.                                       
                                                                                
If your strawberry harvest comes from a strawberry jar, crock,                  
raised pyramid or other container, it is equally important to                   
renovate it and insure vigorous growth for next years. Try the                  
"hill" system of culture for such containers. Select the most                   
vigorous plants and remove all others that developed over the                   
last year. Keep all runners removed so that all of the plant's                  
energy goes into development of the primary plant. Use hand                     
shears to remove last year's foliage one inch above the soil                    
level to eliminate insect and diseases that they may harbor.                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
Harvesting Vegetables                                                           
                                                                                
Does a vine-ripened, home-grown tomato look different from a                    
hot-house produced, grocery-store tomato? With tomatoes, it may                 
be easy to tell when fruit is ripe, but for a beginning gardener,               
telling when to harvest produce may be difficult. Sometimes, as                 
much produce is lost due to improper harvesting as due to                       
insects. Here are descriptions of harvesting techniques for some                
common home grown vegetables.                                                   
                                                                                
Green or Wax Snap Beans--Pick when the pods are full size. The                  
newer varieties can be delayed until the beans are full size as                 
long as the pods are still tender. They should break off easily                 
with a "snap" when ready for harvesting. The seeds should not                   
cause the pods to bulge.                                                        
                                                                                
Pole and Half Runner Beans--Harvest as snap beans when young and                
stringless or shell beans when mature.                                          
                                                                                
Lima Beans--Pods should be green with swellings to show the                     
beans inside. Open a pod or two; beans should be plump but still                
green or gray-green (not white). Pick often to prolong picking                  
season.                                                                         
                                                                                
Sweet Corn--Harvest while the husk is still dark green. Kernels                 
should be full size and yellow or white to the tip of the ear,                  
but still in the soft, `milk stage' of growth. Corn is sweetest                 
just as the silk blackens. Remember that corn matures very                      
rapidly in hot weather and that it should be refrigerated                       
immediately after picking to prevent the sugar from turning to                  
starch.                                                                         
                                                                                
Cucumbers--Those of moderate size are best. Yellowing indicates                 
old age. Don't allow old cucumbers to remain on the vine because                
they will keep the vine from bearing more cucumbers. Harvest                    
while young and green when the seeds are soft. To use cukes for                 
sweet pickles, harvest when two to three inches long; for dills,                
five to six inches; and for slicing, six to eight inches.                       
                                                                                
Muskmelons--They develop the best flavor when they ripen in                     
warm, dry weather. They may taste more like cucumbers if they                   
mature in cool, rainy weather. Pick them at "full slip" stage                   
when the stem separates readily from the fruit. Fully ripe                      
melons are sweetest. As the melon ripens, the netting becomes                   
more prominent and the background color changes from a light                    
green to a tan or yellow cast. After harvesting, the fruit can be               
held at room temperature for one to three days until the blossom                
end softens.                                                                    
                                                                                
Okra or Gumbo--The best quality is when the pods are two to                     
three inches long. They may have to be harvested daily to get                   
the quality size. Pick within a few days after the flower                       
petals have fallen whether pods are to be used or not. If pods                  
are allowed to ripen, the plant ceases to produce.                              
                                                                                
Eggplant--Harvest when the fruits are large and shiny and an                    
even deep purple color. Keep mature fruits picked off and plants                
will produce over a long period of time. Fruit in which the                     
seeds have turned brown are of poor quality and past the edible                 
stage. To tell if the fruit is mature, press the side of the                    
fruit slightly. If the indentation remains, it is mature.                       
                                                                                
Potatoes--Dig them whenever tubers are large enough to eat.                     
Dig only what will be used immediately, because they keep better                
in the soil than in a warm house or basement. Harvest when the                  
tops have died down but before the first heavy freeze. When                     
digging, avoid skinning and injury. Avoid long exposure of                      
potatoes to light.                                                              
                                                                                
Tomatoes--Harvest them when fully vine-ripened and dark red.                    
Regardless of the state of maturity, picked tomatoes should be                  
put in the shade, not the sun. Light is not necessary for                       
immature tomatoes to ripen. Sun causes uneven ripening and                      
abnormal color formation. To obtain good color and flavor, hold                 
partly riped fruit at 70 degrees F then place in the refriger-                  
ator. Pick some green tomatoes and store in a cool (about 55                    
degrees F), moist, dark place before the first killing frost.                   
Ripen by putting them in a location that is 70 degrees F.                       
                                                                                
Cabbage--Harvest anytime after a firm head develops. If some                    
plants can't be harvested after they reach full maturity, bend                  
them to the ground on one side and break part of the roots to                   
reduce the possibility of head splitting from excess water                      
intake. If heads have not split, they can be stored for long                    
periods at tempertures of 32 to 45 degrees F.                                   
                                                                                
Broccoli--Cut while clustered flower heads are firm and green.                  
Take heads with leaves and 5 or 6 inches of stem (also edible).                 
Don't damage short side branches; they will produce smaller                     
heads if left to grow.                                                          
                                                                                
Brussels sprouts--Twist or snap off sprouts when they are firm                  
and still deep green (usually about the time lowest big leaves                  
start to yellow). Harvest lowest sprouts first. Upper ones will                 
continue to enlarge to harvesting size. The flavor of Brussels                  
sprouts improves after exposure to frosts.                                      
                                                                                
Cauliflower--As soon as blossom heads (farmers call them curds)                 
begin to form, pull the upper outer leaves over them to shade                   
from the sun. This blanching process gives a white curd. Inspect                
from time to time and cut off curd when the flower sections begin               
to separate.                                                                    
                                                                                
Kale--Cut off outer leaves from plants as needed. In thinning,                  
pull smaller plants and use (but don't eat roots).                              
                                                                                
New Zealand Spinach--Pinch off or cut with a sharp knife 2 to 3                 
inch lenths of tender stem tips with leaves. New shoots will grow               
to replace them.                                                                
                                                                                
Turnips and rutabagas--Pull young plants with tiny roots to thin                
rows and give growing room to the remaining plants. Eat thin-                   
nings, tops and all. At 2-inch diameters, roots are tastiest,                   
and tops are still good as greens. At 3 inches and above, roots                 
are still good and store a little better. Late planted rutabagas                
can stay in the ground until needed.                                            
                                                                                
                                                                                
Geraniums                                                                       
                                                                                
For over 300 years, gardeners have enjoyed the continuously                     
renewing color of geraniums in the garden. Bright colors, perky                 
flower heads, and contrasting foliage have made them increasingly               
popular. Geraniums come in every flower color, except blue and                  
yellow. Their diversity of flower form and color, growth habits,                
and garden requirements make them highly adaptable for home                     
gardeners.                                                                      
                                                                                
Zonal Geraniums                                                                 
                                                                                
So-called because many of them have zones or patterns in the                    
center of the leaves, these are the ones most people recognize                  
as geraniums (even though they're not geraniums to the botanist,                
but Pelargoniums). Varieties with self-branching habit and                      
compact growth make tidy, well-shaped plants with a show of                     
color all summer long. Some of the varieties have unusually dark                
green foliage which makes a particularly striking contrast to                   
the colorful flower heads held above the foliage. Semi-double                   
flower types are highly desirable because they resist weather                   
damage well and are not as subject to shattering as are singles.                
                                                                                
Many of the new zonal geranium varieties (Pelargonium hortorum)                 
have been bred for free flowering, earliness, compactness and                   
self-branching characteristics making them particularly good                    
plants for every geranium use, from planting beds to container                  
plants for porch and patio.                                                     
                                                                                
Ivy Leaf Geraniums                                                              
                                                                                
Ivy-leafed geraniums have been developed from Pelargonium                       
peltatum. In Europe, over 45% of all geraniums produced are ivy                 
geraniums. Ivy geraniums bear semi-double flowers in colors                     
from white through all the pastels of pink to red. Plants are                   
particularly valuable for use in container plantings, hanging                   
baskets and window boxes where their flowering character provides               
soft effects. Traditionally, they've been used alone, but in                    
recent years the trend has been to combine them with other                      
flowers such as bachelor buttons and ageratum in mixed plantings.               
The key to these plantings is fullness--one or more kinds of                    
flowers for a vertical line, lower growing plants for mass, and                 
trailing varieties such as ivy geraniums to drape over container                
edges for softness and color.                                                   
                                                                                
Ivy geraniums prefer full sun and an eastern exposure where                     
temperatures generally remain below 80 degrees F, but can grow                  
well and bloom in dappled shade where temperatures go higher. For               
container plantings, top dress with a slow-release fertilizer to                
provide nutrient needs. Water is critical in container plantings,               
even more so in hanging baskets where all parts of the container                
are exposed to air movement.                                                    
                                                                                
Cascades                                                                        
                                                                                
Breeding work has brought about a new class of geraniums called                 
cascades. Cascade varieties are the ultimate container plants                   
so heavily covered with blooms that the foliage becomes hidden by               
the blossoms. Cascades are very popular in Europe where they are                
widely used for balcony plantings, window boxes and other                       
container plantings. They also make outstanding ground cover                    
plantings where you want bloom all summer long. Use them on                     
slopes or in ground beds.                                                       
                                                                                
Plant in full sun for the most bloom, but cascade geraniums are                 
also delightful in partial shade or dappled shade. Plants bloom                 
well even if exposed to four hours of full shade per day. The                   
plants are self-branching; each one becomes a mound of color,                   
flowing over the edges of containers to soften the lines and                    
enhance the plantings. The plants are also self-cleaning, which                 
means that spent flower heads drop away when finished blooming.                 
Varieties range in height from tall (24 inches) to very compact                 
kinds which may not exceed 12 inches in length. Fertilize and                   
water regularly to produce a great crop.                                        
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
July 1986 The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                    
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan, Horticulture                     
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Special-               
ist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has                   
been developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                   
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
Summer Pruning Black Raspberries                     14 lines                   
Foliar Fertilization                                 28 lines                   
Succession Planting                                  21 lines                   
Water Conservation in the Garden                     46 lines                   
Temperature and Its Affect on Garden Plants          48 lines                   
Surfactants                                          73 lines                   
Potato 'Fruits'                                      14 lines                   
Tomato - Fruit or Vegetable                          42 lines                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
I have been watching a neighbor pruning the tops of her black                   
raspberries. I have never pruned my berry bushes like this. Is                  
it something new I should be doing?                                             
                                                                                
Tip pruning, also called summer topping, is practiced in July                   
and early August. It encourages branching in some brambles.                     
Black raspberries can be summer topped when the new shoots are                  
about 24" high; purple raspberries, when about 30" high. Red                    
raspberries should not be summer topped.                                        
                                                                                
Summer topping consists of removing the top three to four inches                
of the new shoots by snapping them off with the fingers or                      
cutting them with shears or a knife. Where trained to supports,                 
let new shoots grow six to eight inches taller before topping.                  
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
What can you tell me about the fertilizers you are supposed                     
to spray on your plants?                                                        
                                                                                
Under normal growing conditions, plants absorb most nutrients                   
from the soil. However, some nutrients can also be absorbed by                  
the leaves if a dilute solution is sprayed on the leaves. Care                  
must be taken that the concentration of nutrients is not too high               
or the leaf will be injured.                                                    
                                                                                
Foliar feeding can be useful when: 1) insufficient fertilizer                   
was used before planting; 2) a quick growth response is wanted;                 
3) micronutrients (such as iron or zinc) are unavailable to the                 
plant; or 4) the soil is too cold for the plants to extract or                  
use the fertilizer applied to the soil. Foliar applied nutrients                
are absorbed and used by the plant quite rapidly. Absorption                    
begins within minutes after application and, with most nutrients,               
it is completed within 1 to 2 days.                                             
                                                                                
Foliar nutrition can be a supplement to soil nutrition at a                     
critical time for the plant, but not a substitute. At transplant-               
ing time, an application of phosphorus spray will help in the                   
establishment of the young plant in cold soils. For perennial                   
plants, early spring growth is usually limited by cold soil, even               
when the air is warm. Under such conditions, soil microorganisms                
are not active enough to convert nutrients into forms available                 
for roots to absorb; yet, if the nutrients were available, the                  
plants could grow. A nutrient spray to the foliage will provide                 
the needed nutrients immediately to the plants, allowing them to                
begin growth.                                                                   
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
I have a very small area for gardening. Now that some crops like                
peas and radishes are over, can I replant these areas in other                  
vegetables?                                                                     
                                                                                
Succession planting is an excellent way to make the most of a                   
intensive garden. To obtain a succession of crops, plant some-                  
thing new in the spots vacated by spent plants - corn after                     
peas is an example of succession planting.                                      
                                                                                
Planting a spring, summer, and fall garden is form of succession                
planting. Cool season crops (broccoli, lettuce, peas) may be                    
followed by warm season crops (beans, tomatoes, peppers),                       
and, where possible, these may be followed by more cool-season                  
plants, or even a winter cover crop.                                            
                                                                                
Starting seeds indoors for transplanting is an important aspect                 
of this type of gardening. To get the most from your garden plot,               
a new crop should be ready to take the place of the crop being                  
removed. Several weeks may be gained by having 6" transplants                   
ready to go into the vacated area. Don't forget to recondition                  
the soil for the new plants.                                                    
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
It's been too dry for the garden plants but water is expen-                     
sive. I have already mulched. What else can I do to conserve                    
moisture for my plants?                                                         
                                                                                
Shading and the use of windbreaks are other moisture-conserving                 
techniques you should try. Plants that wilt in very sunny areas                 
can benefit from partial shade during the afternoon in summer.                  
Small plants, in particular, should be protected.                               
                                                                                
Air moving across a plant carries away the moisture on the leaf                 
surfaces, causing more water to be needed by the plant. In very                 
windy areas the roots often cannot keep up with leaf demands, and               
plants wilt. Temporary or permanent windbreaks can help tremen-                 
dously.                                                                         
                                                                                
In areas prone to drought, remember to look for drought-resistant               
varieties when buying plants or seeds.                                          
                                                                                
During those times when cultural practices simply aren't enough,                
when rainfall is sparse and the sun is hot, watering can benefit                
your garden with higher yields, or may save the garden altogether               
in severe drought years. By knowing the critical watering                       
periods for specific vegetables, you can reduce the amount of                   
water you add. In general, water is most needed: 1) during the                  
first weeks of plant development; 2) immediately after trans-                   
planting; and 3) during the development of storage organs which                 
are eaten. Specifically, make sure lettuce and cole crops have                  
ample water during head development. Beans and peas need water                  
when the pods are filling. The critical watering periods for                    
cucumbers, squashes, melons, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers are                
during flowering and while the fruits develop. Corn benefits from               
from moisture when silking and tasseling, and at ear development.               
                                                                                
If water supplies are short, you may want to consider using                     
'gray water', water recycled from household uses on your garden.                
A few rules should be observed:                                                 
    1. Apply gray water to the soil, not to plant leaves.                       
    2. If water is used from the bathtub or washing machine,                    
use mild, biodegradable soaps. Omit softeners and bleaches.                     
Never use borax-containing products such as washing soda, in                    
water intended for the garden because of the danger of boron                    
toxicity.                                                                       
    3. It is preferable not to use kitchen waste water that                     
contains grease, harsh cleaners or non-biodegradable detergents.                
    4. Never allow any water which has run through the toilet                   
to enter a gray water irrigation system. Organisms from human                   
wastes can contaminate food products.                                           
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
How does temperature effect growth of vegetables and flowers?                   
                                                                                
Temperature affects the productivity and growth of a plant,                     
depending upon whether the plant is a warm or cool season                       
crop. If temperatures are high and day length is long, cool                     
season crops such as spinach will flower. Temperatures that are                 
too low for a warm season crop such as tomato will prevent fruit                
set. Adverse temperatures also cause stunted growth and poor                    
quality vegetable production; for example, bitterness in lettuce                
is caused by high temperatures.                                                 
                                                                                
Sometimes temperatures are used in connection with daylength to                 
manipulate the flowering of plants. Chrysanthemums will flower                  
for a longer period of time if daylight temperatures are 59                     
degrees F.                                                                      
                                                                                
Temperatures alone also influence flowering. Daffodils are forced               
to flower by putting the bulbs in cold storage in October at 35                 
to 40 degrees F. Cold temperatures allow bulbs to mature. The                   
bulbs are transferred to the greenhouse in midwinter where growth               
begins. The flowers are then ready for cutting in 3 to 4 weeks.                 
                                                                                
Thermoperiod refers to a daily temperature change. Plants respond               
to and produce maximum growth when exposed to a day temperature                 
that is about 10 to 15 degrees higher than a night temperature.                 
This allows the plant to photosynthesize (build up nutrients) and               
respire (break down) during an optimum daytime temperature and to               
curtail the rate of respiration during a cooler night. Tempera-                 
tures higher than needed cause increased respiration, sometimes                 
above the rate of photosynthesis. This means that the products of               
photosynthesis are being more rapidly used than they are being                  
produced. For growth to occur, photosynthesis must be greater                   
than respiration.                                                               
                                                                                
Too low temperatures can  produce poor growth. Photosynthesis is                
slowed down at low temperatures. Since photosynthesis is slowed,                
growth is slowed, and this results in lower yields. Not all                     
plants grow best under the same temperature range. For example,                 
snapdragons grow best at nighttime temperatures of 55 degrees F                 
and poinsettias at 62 degrees F. Florist cyclamen does very well                
under very cool conditions while many bedding plants prefer a                   
higher temperature.                                                             
                                                                                
However, in some cases, a certain number of days of low tempera-                
ture are needed by plants in order to grow properly. This is true               
of crops growing in cold regions of the country. Peaches are a                  
prime example: most varieties require 700 to 1,000 hours below 45               
degrees F but above 32 degrees F before they break their rest                   
period and begin growth. Lilies need 6 weeks of temperatures at                 
33 degrees F before blooming.                                                   
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
Some pesticide labels mention that a surfactant should be added                 
when mixing them. What is this and what is its purpose?                         
                                                                                
When added to a pesticide, a surfactant reduces the surface                     
tension between two unlike materials, such as a spray film and a                
solid surface. For example, by adding a surfactant to a sprayer,                
oil and water will mix and can be sprayed on plant surfaces. With               
increasing emphasis on safe application of pesticides, such                     
factors as droplet size, spray pattern, and pesticide drift have                
focused more attention on surfactants to give ideal coverage                    
for pesticides.                                                                 
                                                                                
Surfactants include: activators, compatibility agents, defloccu-                
lators, detergents, dispersants, emulsifiers, foam and drift                    
suppressants, and spreading, sticking and wetting agents. These                 
materials are added to a spray mix to help keep the pesticide                   
in suspension; improve cohesiveness and dispersion of the spray;                
and increase the wetting (or coverage) of the leaves, fruits, and               
stems.                                                                          
                                                                                
Many surfactants act as spreading, sticking and wetting agents.                 
They are most useful when spraying the hard-to-wet foliage of                   
such plants as azalea, boxwood, camellia, carnation, conifers,                  
euonymus, gardenia, gladiolus, holly, iris, narcissus, peony,                   
rose, and yew. Whether a spray rolls off or sticks to a plant                   
surface depends on the physical and chemical properties of the                  
spray mixture and the physical properties of the surface itself.                
If the surface tension of the mixture is high, or if the plant                  
surface is waxy, the spray droplets will roll off. The list                     
below contains examples of surfactants and their purposes.                      
                                                                                
Spreader or Film Extender (spreader-activator)  A spreader is a                 
substance that, when added to a pesticide mix, increases the area               
that a given volume of spray will cover and improves contact                    
between the pesticide and the plant surface. A spreading agent                  
builds spray deposits and improves weatherability. Most wettable                
powder insecticides benefit from the addition of a spreader.                    
                                                                                
Sticker or Adhesive   A sticker is a material that, when added to               
a spray mix or dust, improves the adherence (tenacity) to a plant               
surface rather than increasing the initial deposit. Commercial                  
sticking agents are oily in consistency and increase the amount                 
of suspended solids retained on plant surfaces by coating the                   
particles in a resin or varnish-like film. Most fungicides,                     
especially wettable powders, benefit greatly from the use of                    
stickers. Stickers may be judged in terms of resistance to wind                 
and water, length of adherence, and mechanical or chemical                      
action.                                                                         
                                                                                
Wetting Agent  A wetting agent is a material that, when added to                
a pesticide, lowers the interfacial tension between a liquid and                
a solid; in this case, a plant surface. The effectiveness is                    
measured by the increase in spread of a liquid over a solid                     
surface and the ability of the spray film to make complete                      
contact with it. When a wetting agent reduces surface tension,                  
spreading naturally occurs.                                                     
                                                                                
The pesticide label should state whether a surfactant is needed                 
or should be added to a spray mix for certain applications and                  
should indicate restrictions in the selection of compatible                     
surfactants. In many cases, surfactants have been designed speci-               
fically for use with fungicides, insecticides, or herbicides.                   
Although choosing an effective surfactant to accompany a specific               
pesticide is no simple task, the label will state whether a                     
surfactant is needed and the brand that should be used.                         
                                                                                
All commercial spreading, sticking and wetting agents should be                 
mixed strictly according to label directions. Adding more                       
surfactant than recommended may cause excessive runoff, resulting               
in a poor spray deposit and reduced pest control. In general, if                
the spray mix contains one or more pesticides produced or                       
formulated by the same company, use a surfactant sold or recom-                 
mended by that company. Surfactants are sold separately from                    
pesticides and are not subject to EPA registration.                             
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
Why do my potato plants have little tomatoes on them?                           
                                                                                
Frequently gardeners observe small green fruit on potatoes, and                 
think they have a freak plant which will have tomatoes on top                   
and potatoes underground. This is not the case. Fruit formation                 
on potatoes is a normal occurance which should cause you no                     
concern.                                                                        
                                                                                
Potatoes and tomatoes belong to the same botanical family and                   
have similar fruits. On potatoes fruits remain relatively small                 
and green, and are of value only as a means of securing seeds,                  
if you are trying to breed a new variety. On tomato plants                      
fruits become large and fleshy, turn color when ripe, and are one               
of our most important vegetables.                                               
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
Is a tomato a fruit or a vegetable?                                             
                                                                                
Tomato is actually a fruit, a berry, and a vegetable. It is a                   
fruit because it develops from the pistil or center part of the                 
flower, which usually contains the seeds. It is a berry type of                 
fruit because it is soft and succulent all the way through. And                 
it is a vegetable because of the way it is used in our diet.                    
                                                                                
A vegetable is any edible part of a plant which you want to call                
a vegetable. It sounds crazy, but consider some different parts                 
of plants which are edible, and which we call vegetables.                       
                                                                                
Carrots, beets, turnips, and sweet potatoes are roots, which are                
also considered vegetables. In asparagus we eat fleshy stems. The               
potato also is a stem, but a specialized underground stem which                 
stores food reserves. (The eyes of the potato are buds at nodes                 
which the growing points located on stems. Roots do not have                    
nodes.)                                                                         
                                                                                
Many of the vegetables we eat are leaves for instance kale,                     
spinach, and leaf lettuce. In celery we eat mostly the stalk or                 
petiole of the leaf. This is not the stem. The stem is the small                
hard basal portion from which the long celery leaves arise.                     
                                                                                
In cabbage and head lettuce we eat enormous terminal buds which                 
develop on the top of short stems. The bud is, of course,                       
composed of many tightly folded leaves, but the whole thing is a                
bud. In Brussels sprouts we eat small side or lateral buds.                     
                                                                                
With shelled beans and peas, we eat seeds. While in the snap                    
beans and edible podded peas we eat the entire fruit with the                   
immature seeds inside. In sweet corn, the principal edible part                 
is the seed.                                                                    
                                                                                
There are many vegetables which actually are fruits such as                     
cucumber, okra, pumpkin, squash, and pepper. Technically musk-                  
melon and watermelon also fall into this catagory even though in                
our diet we think of them as fruits. In some cases we cut the                   
fruit open and discard the seeds for example muskmelon and                      
pumpkin. In many other cases, when the fruit is consumed when                   
quite young, we eat the seeds also, as in cucumbers, okra, and                  
summer squash.                                                                  
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Monthly Notes for July 1987                                                     
                                                                                
Herbaceous Plants                                                               
                                                                                
* If your annuals look poor, pull them out and add them to the                  
compost pile. You can replant beds with hardy annuals or biennia-               
ls, such as pansies, calendulas, globe thistle, or sea pinks.                   
                                                                                
* A plastic mesh bag filled with marbles holds flower arrange-                  
ments beautifully. Set it in the container and cover it with                    
water and the marbles will grip flower stems firmly without                     
injuring them.                                                                  
                                                                                
* A cool basement works well for temporary flower storage.                      
Remember to mist arrangements several times a day.                              
                                                                                
* High temperatures accelerate respiration and evaporation from                 
cut flowers. Your refrigerator may be used to temporarily hold                  
floral arrangements if the temperature is no less than 40 degrees               
F, and if no fruit is stored in the cooler. Temperatures below 40               
degrees F and ethylene gas given off by ripening fruit can injury               
the petals of many flowers.                                                     
                                                                                
* If the sweet peas are heavily mulched, their roots will be kept               
cooler and their season prolonged. Use rough plant litter or                    
grass clippings. A little shade at midday will help to maintain                 
the quality of the flowers and prolong the season.                              
                                                                                
* When growth has stopped and vanished foliage indicates a                      
dormant condition, dig up a good root each of Bleedingheart,                    
Anchusa, Oriental Poppy. Cut these long roots into 1-2 inch                     
pieces and plant them in a mixture of sand and rich loam. Keep                  
the area fairly moist and soon tiny leaves will shoot up. The new               
plants will be ready for permanent quarters in the spring.                      
                                                                                
* Often, you may run into a perennial whose habit and hardiness                 
has been untested in your region. If you like the look of the                   
plant, give it a try. Most perennials can be purchased at                       
reasonable cost and half the fun of gardening can be experimenti-               
ng with something new.                                                          
                                                                                
* In planning a perennial bed, first assess the site of the                     
garden. Is it shady? Sunny? Filtered shade? Is the soil acid or                 
alkaline? Does the soil tend to be dry or moist? What climatic                  
conditions are usual throughout the year? Is the soil well-                     
drained? Sandy? Full of clay? Once these things have been                       
considered, you can develop a plant list of possible plants for                 
such a location. Then the plan can be made.                                     
                                                                                
* The soil in container grown vegetables and flowers can dry out                
very quickly especially on a concrete patio in full sun.  Daily                 
watering may be necessary. However, the soil should not be soggy                
or have water standing on top of it. Apply water until it runs                  
out the drainage holes. Clay pots have additional evaporation                   
from the sides and watering must be done more often. Small pots                 
dry out quicker than large window boxes. Check your containers at               
least once a day and twice on hot, dry days. Feel the soil to see               
whether or not it is damp.                                                      
                                                                                
* Many plants are easily increased by layering. Verbenas, pinks                 
euonymus, pachysandra, ivy, daphne, climbing roses, in fact, many               
of the plants with reaching runners will probably take root if                  
fastened down on soft earth with a wire and covered with some                   
good soil.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Geranium cuttings should be made in late July to start plants                 
for winter and spring indoor bloom. To get flowers in the winter                
months you may need to install some fluorescent tubes over the                  
bench or shelves where you grow your plants. To make cuttings,                  
use the tip of branches about 4 inches long. Cut off the bottom                 
leaves and stick the cuttings about 1/3 their length in a moist                 
sand-peat mixture. Roots will develop rapidly and new plants                    
should be ready for potting in about 4 weeks.                                   
                                                                                
* In response to the trend toward smaller gardens, new climbing                 
roses are being bred. The new climbers grow only 6 to 8 feet tall               
and need little or no pruning. A wide range of colors are                       
available.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Time of bloom, height and size of mature plants, flower and                   
foliage colors, and texture are important considerations in                     
planning a perennial garden. Choices of specific plant varieties                
are very personal. Perennial gardens might include only a number                
of varieties of the same plant or they might, for instance,                     
include only plants that have gray foliage and white flowers.                   
Choices are countless; the important thing is to have a specific                
aim, to know what effect you are trying to achieve.                             
                                                                                
* Sow seeds of hollyhocks, English daisies, foxgloves, violas,                  
Canterbury bells and Sweet Williams now for next year`s bloom.                  
                                                                                
* For the largest flowers, the main stems of the dahlias should                 
be kept free of side shoots. In larger varieties, a single stalk                
is the best. Adequate support must be provided to prevent storm                 
breakage. Water well.                                                           
                                                                                
* Tall flowers should be staked to prevent damage by wind. Use                  
stakes which are large enough to support the plant but are not                  
too conspicuous. Use soft twine or the easy-twist tape and wire                 
ties.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Divide and transplant bearded iris replanting only the vigorous               
ends of the rhizomes. Discard the old center portion. Cut the                   
leaves back to about 8" long.                                                   
                                                                                
* Cutting flowers is best done with a sharp shears or a knife.                  
Take care to avoid injury to the growing plant by having sharp                  
tools. A special pair of cutting scissors may be bought which                   
holds the cut stem, allowing the removal to be a one handed                     
operation. It is best to carry a bucket of water to the garden,                 
for fresh cuttings rather than the familiar cutting basket. A                   
slanting cut will expose a larger absorbing surface to water and                
prevent the base of the stem from being sealed by resting upon                  
the bottom of the vase.                                                         
                                                                                
* Hot, dry weather brings out the red spiders mites. Inspect                    
roses, evergreens, and marigolds, especially for signs of pale                  
green coloration. Hold a white sheet of paper underneath some                   
foliage and briskly tap it. Tiny, crawling mites will drop to the               
note paper if they are present. Severely infested annual plants                 
may be removed from the garden and destroyed. Others should be                  
chemically treated. If infestation is light, mites may be                       
discouraged by direct spray from the water hose.                                
                                                                                
* Gerbera flowers (African daisy) can last up to two weeks in a                 
vase if the water is kept clean. Since gerbera stems are hairy,                 
do not immerse them more than a few inches. Change the water                    
every two days.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Chrysanthemums should be lightly fertilized every two weeks                   
with a water soluble fertilizer. To keep plants compact and full                
of blooms, pinch out new tip growth until eight weeks before they               
are to bloom, approximately mid-July. For large exhibition mums,                
allow only one or two shoots to develop, stake these shoots, and                
remove side buds as they start to develop.                                      
                                                                                
* Protect plants in containers from very high temperature caused                
by light reflection from pavement. Move them to a cooler spot or                
shade them during the hottest part of the day. Plants may be                    
moved to a more sheltered location during severe rain or wind                   
storms or as protection from the first fall frosts.                             
                                                                                
* Mulching herbs during hot weather protects the plant roots and                
helps keep them healthy. Perennial herbs also need mulch in the                 
fall for protection from winter thaws and freezing.                             
                                                                                
Woody Ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* In dry times, trees may shed up to 10% of their leaves to                     
reduce water loses through transpiration. This leaf loss causes                 
little or no harm.                                                              
                                                                                
* Root holly, azalea, and camellia cuttings in a sand and peat                  
moss mixture, set in a cool, shady location. Ivy and periwinkle                 
can be rooted now to fill in any bare spots in your beds. Don`t                 
allow cuttings to dry out.                                                      
                                                                                
* When it is necessary to transplant woody plants in hot weather,               
cover them with a sheet after they are planted. Dampen the sheet                
two or three times a day with the hose, and transplants should                  
suffer very little setback due to transpiration losses.                         
                                                                                
* Inner leaves and twigs of trees normally drop from lack of                    
sunlight, but clusters of leaves attached to short twigs may drop               
as a result of insect or squirrel activity. Girdling insects make               
shallow, encircling depressions, while twigs broken by squirrels                
have diagonally severed ends.                                                   
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
* Light sprinkling is often harmful, especially on lawns. Proper                
watering means soaking. Soak the soil to the bottom of the                      
roots. Investigate automatic watering devices.                                  
                                                                                
* Moss in shady areas of lawns is a common problem brought on by                
poorly-drained, compacted soil. Opening the soil with an aeration               
machine allows more air and fertilizer to reach plant roots. Also               
have a soil test done to check fertility and the possible need                  
for lime.                                                                       
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* Pick vegetables as they mature and weed regularly; over-ripe                  
vegetables and weeds use precious moisture and reduce production.               
                                                                                
* For a fall harvest of cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and                      
Brussels sprouts, set transplants in late July. For a fall                      
harvest of lettuce, radish, carrots, beets, turnips, kale, and                  
spinach sow seeds in late July to early August.                                 
                                                                                
* When your green beans have finished producing, mow the plants                 
down with the mower set to cut 3-4" high, then water well and                   
feed with manure tea. Plants will regrow and give you another                   
harvest in about a month.                                                       
                                                                                
* Fall is the best time to grow Brussels sprouts, since their                   
flavor is enhanced by a mild frost. Sow seeds directly in the                   
garden early in the July, or set out transplants. Brussels                      
sprouts are heavy feeders, so make monthly applications of                      
5-10-10 from the time the plants are 4" tall. Apply at a rate of                
1/2 cup per square yard.                                                        
                                                                                
* In summer, dry soil may make working the soil difficult and                   
inhibit seed germination. Plant your fall vegetables when the                   
soil is moist after a rain, or water the area thoroughly the day                
before you plant. Seeds may be planted in a shallow trench to                   
conserve moisture. Cover the seeds about twice as deeply as you                 
do in the spring. Early maturing varieties are best for late                    
plantings.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Gardeners in the mountainous regions of Virginia start planting               
fall vegetables this month. Request publication 426-334 Fall Veg-               
etable Gardening from your extension agent or write The Virginia                
Gardener for guidelines on planning and planting fall crops.                    
                                                                                
* Harvest your vegetables at the peak of maturity. One of the                   
most important advantages of the home garden is the opportunity                 
to have high quality vegetables. Don`t allow them to become too                 
old before you pick them. Harvest summer squash when about 6                    
inches long. Pick sweet corn just before it is to be used. If it                
is held under warm conditions, the sugar changes to starch and                  
the corn is much poorer in quality.                                             
                                                                                
* Stop vine crops from taking over your garden or lawn by                       
pinching off the fuzzy growing tips. This also directs the                      
plant's energy into ripening fruit rather than producing more                   
vine.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Implement all the best cultural practices to reduce pest                      
problems but be prepared to spray as needed to control insects                  
and diseases. Some spraying or dusting usually is necessary to                  
insure the production of healthful, high-quality vegetables.                    
                                                                                
* Sidedress crops like corn and cabbage with 2 pounds of 10-10-10               
per 100 feet of row about a month after growth starts. Scatter                  
the fertilizer between the rows and scratch into the soil with a                
rake. If your garden is on an infertile sandy soil, sidedress all               
of your vegetables to promote vigorous growth.                                  
                                                                                
* Continue to make successive plantings of crops like beans,                    
beets, cabbage, and sweet corn, to provide a continuous harvest                 
until fall. A small garden will produce a large quantity of                     
vegetables if replanting is done throughout the summer.                         
                                                                                
* Turning cabbage a quarter to a half turn if they start to crack               
will reduce water uptake. Or, use a shovel to cut through the                   
roots on one side of the plant. If that doesn't work, better                    
harvest them.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Ornamental kales and cabbage are among the showiest of all                    
winter plants and as the weather cools, the color intensifies.                  
Transplants of these beautiful winter ornamentals are available                 
at garden centers and nurseries now.                                            
                                                                                
* To reduce Japanese beetles: remove all flower blossoms as soon                
as they begin to fade, all fruit as soon as it is ripe. Japanese                
beetles are especially fond of over-ripe fruit and deteriorating                
flower blossoms. After these preventive steps, go out to your                   
garden daily and knock the insects off their perches and into a                 
wide-mouthed jar of soapy water. That will gum them up and                      
prevent them from flying away.                                                  
                                                                                
* Chinese cabbage, if you are not familiar with it, does not                    
taste at all like regular cabbage. Its pleasant piquant taste and               
texture are well-suited to salads and to cooking. Lightly steamed               
and buttered Chinese cabbage is a delicacy. The best planting                   
time for Chinese cabbage is after July 1; plants will mature when               
days are becoming progressively shorter and cooler. Plants will                 
head rather than shooting up flowers.                                           
                                                                                
* Greening of potatoes is caused by not covering tubers that grow               
too big. Mound up the soil around the plant as it grows.                        
                                                                                
* Snap bean flowers fail to develop because of high daytime                     
temperatures above 90 degrees F.                                                
                                                                                
* Keep peas, beans, and berries cool while you pick them by                     
spreading a damp cloth over your harvest basket.                                
                                                                                
Fruits/Nuts                                                                     
                                                                                
* Grape leaves, the "wrappers" in many Middle Eastern appetizers                
and entrees, are easy to freeze for a year-round supply. Gather                 
young, unsprayed leaves, lay them flat in freezer containers and                
freeze. When ready to use, scald them in boiling water for 30                   
seconds, then run cold water over them until cool.                              
                                                                                
* If you grow your own raspberries, harvest berries frequently to               
discourage Japanese beetles or sap beetles from becoming trouble-               
some. Both insects are especially attracted to ripe and overripe                
fruit. Prune out canes that have bore fruit immediately after                   
harvest.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Fireblight on apple and pear trees can be identified by looking               
for  blackened twigs and branches. The disease will spread and                  
kill the tree if not controlled. Remove all blighted twigs,                     
cutting below 8 inches of the infected area. Disinfect pruning                  
tools after each cut to prevent spread. Dip blades in a solution                
of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts water.                                    
                                                                                
* Blueberry bushes may need to be covered with plastic netting or               
fine cloth (tobacco cloth) to control birds. When harvesting                    
blueberries, remember to allow berries to remain on the plants                  
for 3-5 days after they turn blue. Waiting several days allows                  
berries to reach their maximum sugar content.                                   
                                                                                
* Ripening grape clusters may be covered with brown paper or                    
polyethylene bags, or nylon netting to reduce bird damage. If                   
bags are used, make ventilation holes in the bottom of the bags.                
                                                                                
* Strawberries need summer care. If you have your plants in                     
hills, pick off all runners. But if you planted a matted row,                   
encourage the runners to root and grow until the row is 2 feet                  
wide.                                                                           
                                                                                
Indoor Plants                                                                   
                                                                                
* Bromeliads are ideal in the home because they tolerate low                    
light conditions. In addition, some plants may produce a long                   
lasting and brightly colored floral spike.                                      
                                                                                
* July is an excellent month to root cuttings of such houseplants               
as coleus, fuchsia, geranium, gynura, poinsettia, shrimp plant,                 
Swedish ivy, wandering jew, wax plant, and other plants with                    
succulent (non-woody) stems.                                                    
                                                                                
* To avoid soaking the soil when giving potted plants a shower,                 
slit an aluminum foil pie plate from the rim to the center, turn                
under the cut edges, and slip it around the plant stem so it                    
covers the soil and makes the water run off.                                    
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* Do you know how many ways you can use an old (or new) laundry                 
basket? When you're going out to the "North 40" to work, use your               
basket to carry your hand tools, gloves, seeds, and fertilizer;                 
and when you're finished gardening, haul all those weeds and                    
clippings to the trash can or compost pile in your handy basket.                
When harvesting root crops such as beets, turnips, or carrots,                  
leave your bounty in your basket while you wash it with a                       
forceful squirt from the garden hose.                                           
                                                                                
* A garden needs 1" of rain or water each week. Early morning is                
the best time to water. Evening watering is less desirable                      
because leaves that remain wet through the night are more suscep-               
tible to fungus diseases. Mulch plants to reduce water losses and               
save money.                                                                     
                                                                                
* July is a good time to begin looking for native and wild plants               
from which you can collect seed pods to use in arrangements this                
fall and winter. Be on the lookout for such material as dock,                   
dried corn tassels, and seed pods from locust, redbud, chaste                   
tree and cattails.                                                              
                                                                                
* Now is the time to begin to sow cover crops between rows and in               
vacated beds. Sow clover, rye and vetch. These, dug under later,                
will return humus and nitrates to the soil.                                     
                                                                                
* Check the soil moisture of container grown vegetables and                     
flowers daily. As the temperature rises, some plants may need                   
water twice daily.                                                              
                                                                                
* Water your plants several hours before applying pesticides,                   
especially during dry weather. Drought-stressed plants have less                
water in their plant tissues, and the chemicals may burn the                    
leaves.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Attract insect eating birds to the garden area by providing                   
them a fresh water source.                                                      
                                                                                
* Dry flowers now for use in arrangements next winter. Early                    
season blooms are better for this purpose than those that develop               
in late summer. Flowers for drying should be cut during midday,                 
in the late bud or early bloom stage.                                           
                                                                                
* Store pesticides in a safe place in their original containers,                
away from children and pets. Use pesticides carefully in your                   
garden. Read the labels and follow the directions. The warnings                 
and precautions are for your protection.                                        
                                                                                
* Clean greenhouse walls and under benches. Wash empty pots.                    
Change soil in benches. Spray to eliminate disease next winter.                 
                                                                                
* Be alert for ground bees--particularly dangerous to those who                 
are allergic to bee venom. To eradicate ground bees spread Sevin                
dust on bee holes.                                                              
                                                                                
* Eliminate stagnant water to control mosquitos.                                
                                                                                
* Japanese beetle traps should be placed at some distance from                  
the plants they are meant to protect. When placed nearby, beetles               
lured by the trap will feed heavily on plants attractive to them                
which are in the vicinity of the trap.                                          
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Press Releases July 1987                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Extension                   
Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Home Horti-                 
culture, working with Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab. The               
Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed for agent                  
use in preparing radio and newspaper features and other                         
educational programs.                                                           
                                                                                
Pesticide Label                                  98  lines                      
To Shear or Not to Shear                         57  lines                      
Woodland Ferns for the Home and Garden           100 lines                      
Sow Perennials Now for Blooms Next Spring        63  lines                      
Statice                                          43  lines                      
Greenstriped Mapleworm                           37  lines                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
The Pesticide Label                                                            
                                                                                
The use of a pesticide is potentially hazardous if done                         
improperly. An understanding of the label information is                        
essential before work begins. The label printed on or attached to               
a container of pesticide will tell how to use the product                       
correctly and what special safety measures need to be taken. Read               
the directions before mixing or applying any pesticide. If you                  
are confused about any part of the instructions as listed on the                
label consult your extension agent or a representative of the                   
company which makes the product. Many pesticides now list a toll                
free number for consumers. Specific parts of the label include:                 
                                                                                
Contents Description:                                                           
                                                                                
Brand name: Each company uses brand names to identify its                       
products. The brand name shows up plainly on the front panel of                 
the label.                                                                      
Type of formulation: The same pesticide may be available in more                
than one formulation such as wettable powder and water soluble                  
concentrate.                                                                    
Ingredient statement: Each pesticide label must list the names                  
and amounts of the active ingredients and the amount of inert                   
ingredients in the product. Compare the amount of active                        
ingredient to cost on different brands of the same product to                   
save money.                                                                     
Common name and chemical name: Pesticides have complex chemical                 
names derived from their chemical composition, some have also                   
been given a common name to make them easier to identify.                       
Pesticides may be sold under several brand names, but you will                  
find either the common name or chemical name on all of them.                    
Net contents: The net contents tells how much is in the con-                    
tainer.                                                                         
                                                                                
Source and Registration:                                                        
                                                                                
Name and address of manufacturer: The law requires the maker or                 
distributor of a product to print the name and address of the                   
company on the label.                                                           
Registration number: A registration number must be on every                     
pesticide label. It shows that the product has been approved by                 
the E.P.A. for the uses listed on the label.                                    
Establishment number: The establishment number tells which                      
factory made the chemical.                                                      
                                                                                
Safety Information:                                                             
                                                                                
Precautionary statements: A section with a title similar to                     
"Hazards to Humans and Domestic Animals" will tell the ways in                  
which the product may be poisonous to man and animals. It will                  
also describe any special steps necessary to avoid poisoning,                   
such as the kind of protective equipment needed. If the product                 
is highly toxic, this section will inform physicians of the                     
proper treatment for poisoning.                                                 
Environmental hazards: The label tells how to avoid damage to the               
environment. Some examples are: "This product is highly toxic to                
bees exposed to direct treatment or residues on crops." "Do not                 
contaminate water when cleaning equipment or when disposing of                  
wastes," and "Do not apply where runoff is likely to occur."                    
                                                                                
Physical and Chemical Hazards: lists specific fire, explosion, or               
chemical hazards that the product may have.                                     
                                                                                
Signal words and symbols: Some pesticides may be hazardous to                   
people. You can tell how toxic a product is by reading the signal               
word and symbol on the label. Signal words to look for are                      
danger, poison, warning, and caution with the symbol of the skull               
and cross bones accompanying them.                                              
                                                                                
Statement of practical treatment: If swallowing or inhaling the                 
product or getting it in the eyes or on the skin would be                       
harmful, the label contains emergency first aid measures and                    
states types of exposure requiring medical attention. The                       
pesticide label is the most important information you can take to               
the physician when someone has been poisoned. Without the label,                
it may be difficult for the physician to help.                                  
                                                                                
Directions for use: The directions for use will include the pests               
the product will control; the crops, animal or other item the                   
product can be used on safely; how the product should be applied;               
how much to use; where and when the material should be applied.                 
                                                                                
Application to harvest periods: When used on fruits or vege-                    
tables, there may be a period of time that must pass from the                   
time of application until it is safe to pick and use the                        
crop. Known as the application to harvest period and expressed as               
"days to harvest," this is the time required for the residue to                 
drop to safe levels. It is often listed as a number in                          
parentheses following the crop name. It is a mistake to assume                  
that a residue can be washed off.                                               
                                                                                
Misuse statement: This section will remind you that it is a                     
violation of Federal law to use a product in a manner incon-                    
sistent with its labeling.                                                      
                                                                                
Storage and disposal directions: Every pesticide should be stored               
and disposed of correctly following label directions for                        
environmental and human safety.                                                 
To Shear or Not to Shear                                                       
                                                                                
The most common summer pruning practice is undoubtedly the                      
shearing of hedges. While this is an effective way of maintaining               
a neat and formal appearance to the landscape it may not be the                 
most beneficial treatment your shrubs can receive.                              
                                                                                
In shearing, the new young growth at the end of a branch is                     
removed. This encourages side buds near the cut end to sprout and               
increases the appearance of bushiness; but, this bushiness is                   
only skin deep. Shearing actually encourages the development of a               
skin or shell of thick leafy growth that can be detrimental to                  
the health of the shrub. The dense layer of outer leaves prevents               
penetration of light to the center of the shrub and gradually the               
inside leaves die and fall off. If the shrub is damaged, new                    
growth will be very slow to fill in the area and the shrub will                 
be unattractive for a long time.                                                
                                                                                
Shrubs with multiple stems arising from the ground are                          
particularily susceptible to damage from continuous shearing. The               
dense foliage shell prevents new stems from developing at the                   
base of the shrub. New stems are needed to maintain the vigor of                
the shrub. On most flowering shrubs the quantity and quality of                 
blossoms decline as the stem grows older. Therefore, overall                    
flower production will decrease greatly with the lack of young                  
stems.                                                                          
                                                                                
Shearing has other negative aspects. In most home landscapes                    
there is little room for the highly formal look of a sheared                    
shrub. The more informal lines of shrubs grown in their natural                 
state blend into the landscape and enhance the home setting                     
rather than contrasting and detracting from it.                                 
                                                                                
Shearing is actually a lot of work that is usually unnecessary if               
proper plant material is selected and appropriate pruning                       
techniques understood. Since the main goal of shearing is usually               
size control, it makes good sense to replace rampant growing                    
shrubs with dwarf varieties that require little maintenance.                    
                                                                                
Proper pruning of slow growing shrubs consists of a combination                 
of thinning out excessive growth and heading back or shortening                 
extra long branches. With single-stem shrubs, size control and                  
shaping are simply a matter of making the cuts at different                     
heights within the shrub, cutting to a bud, a branch, or a main                 
stem as appropriate. Besides maintaining the natural shape, other               
benefits include better interior growth, fewer cut leaves and                   
exposed stems and less regrowth requiring another pruning session               
in a few weeks.                                                                 
                                                                                
On multiple-stem shrubs new growth appears from the base. A                     
renewable system of pruning is used that allows the development                 
of new vigorous stems to replace old ones that are removed at                   
ground level after three to four years of growth. Six to ten                    
healthy middle age stems are left with the vigorous young canes                 
when the older wood is removed. On spring flowering shrubs such                 
as forsythia this is done in late spring to early summer after                  
blooming is complete.                                                           
Woodland Ferns for the Home and Garden                                         
                                                                                
Ferns are among the most adaptable of plants for home gardeners.                
They are ideal for ground cover or border plantings in the                      
landscape, and are especially useful as potted plants in the                    
home.                                                                           
                                                                                
Ferns are an ancient type of vegetation which occupied the world                
long before the evolution of seed producing plants. They are                    
strictly foliage plants, since they reproduce without flowering.                
                                                                                
Ferns produce long fronds which are similar to the leaves of seed               
producing plants. Fronds arise directly from the ground with no                 
central stem. The small brown spots on the underside of the                     
leaves contain spores which serve the same purpose as seeds in                  
reproducing the plant.                                                          
                                                                                
Most ferns used in Virginia landscapes are shade loving woodland                
types, although there are sun tolerant ferns available through                  
gardening catalogs. Native ferns grow abundantly in wooded areas                
and may be transplanted easily. They will thrive best if located                
near trees, or on the east or north side of a building, where                   
they will receive partial shade. Woodland ferns may grow quite                  
poorly if subjected to hot afternoon sun. Most ferns used in                    
Virginia landscapes are shade loving woodland types, although                   
there are sun tolerant ferns available through gardening                        
catalogs.                                                                       
                                                                                
Ferns start growth very early in the spring, and retain their                   
delicate leafy foliage until several light frosts freeze them                   
back in the fall. They are quite free from disease or insect                    
pests, and thus are easy to grow in the native gardens or border                
plantings around the home.                                                      
                                                                                
Woodland ferns grow best in a soil which has a high humus                       
content, almost pure leaf mold is ideal. The average garden soil                
may be made suitable for ferns by adding liberal quantities of                  
peat moss or compost. An abundant supply of water is also needed                
throughout the season to promote vigorous growth.                               
                                                                                
The best time to transplant ferns is in the spring about a month                
before the average last frost date, or in the fall a couple weeks               
after the average first frost date. Keep the roots covered with a               
protective ball of moist soil or peat moss at all times. Apply                  
water as needed after transplanting to maintain a high moisture                 
content in the soil.                                                            
                                                                                
Although ferns grow abundantly in moist woodlands, care should be               
taken in digging up the plants for landscaping your home. They                  
spread rather slowly from underground rootstocks. They also                     
reproduce from spores, but several years are required to produce                
a mature plant in this way. Therefore, in gathering ferns from                  
wild sources, first make sure you have permission from the land                 
owner to dig the ferns, then dig only a few plants and leave an                 
adequate group to maintain the original native collection.                      
                                                                                
Nursery or garden centers may have ferns, or they may be willing                
to secure plants for you. This may be a more practical way to                   
start than to collect them from the wild. Make sure that the                    
plants you buy are hardy woodland ferns and not tropical plants                 
that would die outdoors during the winter.                                      
                                                                                
The ferns in your landscape planting may serve as a source for                  
potted plants for use in the home. Maidenhair ferns and                         
spleenworts found in Virginia forests are particularly suitable.                
These smaller woodland ferns are easy to grow as house plants.                  
The key to growing outdoor ferns indoors is humidity. This can be               
provided by placing the pots on pebbles or crushed stone in a                   
tray of water. The pots should not stand in the water. The                      
atmosphere provided in a terrarium or bottle garden is ideal. Use               
a high humus potting soil and ample drainage material in the                    
bottom of the pot. Ferns are attractive only when making vigorous               
green growth. Therefore, apply a soluble house plant fertilizer                 
regularly. In the winter, locate ferns in bright light, but never               
in a hot sunny window.                                                          
                                                                                
The following is a list of ferns suggested for indoor and outdoor               
planting.                                                                       
                                                                                
Outdoor Ferns (hardy)                                                           
                                                                                
Japanese silver-painted fern - Athyrium Goeringianum cv.'Pictum'                
cinnamon fern - Osmunda cinnamomea                                              
Christmas fern - Polystichum acrostichoides                                     
maidenhair fern - Adiantum pedatum                                              
hay-scented fern - Dennstaedtia punctilobula                                    
ostrich fern - Matteuccia Struthiopteris                                        
                                                                                
Indoor Ferns (non-hardy)                                                        
                                                                                
Boston fern - Nephrolepis exaltata cv. 'Bostoniensis'                           
bird's-nest fern - Asplenium nidus                                              
staghorn fern - Platycerium bifurcatum                                          
rabbit's-foot fern - Davallia fejeensis cv.'Plumosa'                            
button fern - Pellaea rotundifolia                                              
strawberry fern - Hemionitis palmata                                            
                                                                                
Either Indoor or Outdoor                                                        
                                                                                
maidenhair fern - Adiantum pedatum                                              
walking fern - Camptosorus rhizophyllus                                         
spleenwort - Asplenium sp.                                                      
squirrel-foot fern - Devallia Mariesii                                          
felt fern - Pyrrosia sp.                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Sow Perennials Now for Blooms Next Spring                                       
                                                                                
Midsummer is an ideal time to sow the seeds of many types of                    
perennials for plants to be set in the flower border this fall or               
next spring. A few short rows in a location which receives some                 
shade from the hot afternoon sun will provide plenty of plants.                 
                                                                                
Sow the seeds thinly in shallow furrows. Cover lightly with sand                
or shredded sphagnum moss. Water carefully with a fine sprinkling               
nozzle, and repeat as needed to ensure rapid germination. The                   
seeds of most perennials will germinate in one or two weeks, and                
emerge easily through the sand or moss.                                         
                                                                                
When the seedlings have developed their second set of leaves,                   
they should be thinned out and the extra plants set about six                   
inches apart in rows of about two feet apart. Sidedress with 5-                 
10-5 or 10-10-10 fertilizer and keep the soil moist during the                  
late summer to promote the growth of sturdy plants.                             
                                                                                
The perennial plants will be ready for moving to flower beds and                
borders in the fall at about the time of the first frost. Trans-                
plant them with a good ball of soil around the roots. If spring                 
is a more convenient season for transplanting, the best time is                 
about a month before the average date of the last spring frost.                 
Perennials can be moved anytime the ground is not frozen in the                 
spring or fall.                                                                 
                                                                                
After transplanting, apply a one-inch mulch of shredded leaves,                 
peat moss, or similar material to conserve soil moisture and help               
control weeds. The plants should be protected during the winter                 
with several additional inches of coarse mulch. Stiff straw, corn               
stalks, or evergreen branches are suitable materials.                           
                                                                                
Along with the many perennial plants you can seed in mid-summer,                
pansies are easy to grow for blooming next year. The large                      
flowered Majestic Giant Hybrids, Steele's Jumbo, or Roggli's                    
Swiss Giant strains produce beautiful blooms. The tufted viola                  
with its solid colors, and medium size flowers is also excellent                
as an edging plant.                                                             
                                                                                
The delightful fragrance of pinks add interest to the garden, and               
provide small, stiff-stemmed flowers for arrangements. Perennial                
babysbreath is an ideal plant to provide filler material for cut                
flower arrangements.                                                            
                                                                                
Columbine with their graceful flowers are easy to raise. Dwarf                  
strains are about 18 inches tall, and the giant types may reach a               
height of 36 inches, with four-inch flowers.                                    
                                                                                
For daisy type flowers plant shasta daisy and rudbeckia or                      
coneflower. These provide striking colors in the garden, and                    
sturdy, long-lasting blooms for arrangements.                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
For the border background, foxglove and Pacific hybrid                          
delphiniums have tall spikes three to four feet tall. A few                     
clumps of these larger plants will increase interest in the                     
border. A few hollyhocks could also be grown as background                      
plants. Some of the new double varieties have beautiful blooms                  
similar to roses.                                                               
                                                                                
Many other periennials can also be raised from seeds planted in                 
July. Consult your favorite garden catalog, and start plant now                 
to increase the beauty of next year's your flowers border.                      
Statice                                                                        
                                                                                
With the ever increasing interest in dried and cut flowers, one                 
plant stands out as a favorite due to its durability. Statice has               
been a standard in flower arrangements for many years but many                  
people do not realize this plant can be grown in the home garden.               
Provide yourself with a constant source of flowers for fresh or                 
dried arrangements by planting a statice bed in the garden.                     
Statice (Limonium sp.) comes in many colors including shades of                 
blue, yellow, rose, lavendar and white. Plant statice seeds in                  
flats during early April. Set the flat in a sunny window or                     
greenhouse to germinate. Once the seedlings are up transplant                   
them into small pots. Harden them off for setting out in May.                   
                                                                                
There are both annual and perennial forms of statice, ranging in                
height from 18 to 36 inches. Annual species thrive in any fertile               
garden soil. Hardy perennial species perform best in light sandy                
soils which are well drained. Heavy clays should be lightened by                
adding quantities of compost for optimum plant growth. Plants                   
flower prolifically once they become established in a site. Leave               
them undisturbed except for an occasional top dressing of decayed               
manure.                                                                         
                                                                                
The annual growing species of statice available includes the most               
popular of the statice family, L. sinuata, which comes in many                  
colors with a height of 12 t0 24 inches. Another popular species                
is L. suworowii which has erect pink flowering spikes which can                 
reach a height of 18 inches. L. bonduelli, boasts bright yellow                 
blooms on 12 inch spikes.                                                       
                                                                                
The perennial species of statice on the market include L.                       
latifolium which grows to a height of 24 inches producing wide                  
spreading sprays of lavendar blue flowers. L. tatarica, has large               
silvery white flower heads to 12 to 20 inches tall. L. perezii,                 
has bright blue flowers with a growing height ranging from 18-36                
inches. It is hardy only in the deep south but could be grown as                
an annual in most of Virginia.                                                  
                                                                                
The best method for drying statice is to cut the flowers when the               
blooms are fully open and hang them in bundles in a cool shed or                
room to dry. Good air circulation is preferred with a minimum                   
amount of direct sunlight to keep the blooms from fading. Drying                
agents such as glycerine can also be used.                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
Greenstriped Mapleworm                                                         
                                                                                
An unwelcome guest in the garden and landscape is the                           
greenstriped mapleworm. This caterpillar which is native to the                 
eastern United States will attack various trees and shrubs                      
including maples, oaks and boxelder. Though it is found all                     
across Virginia it ranges as far west as Kansas, where most of                  
the severe damage occurs.                                                       
                                                                                
Mapleworm caterpillars or larvae are a pale yellowish-green with                
seven dark green lines running along their back and a double row                
of spines on each side of the body which end with four large                    
spines on the abdomen. The larvae also display a characteristic                 
pair of horns located behind a red head. These caterpillars reach               
an average size of one and a half inches.                                       
                                                                                
The life cycle of the mapleworm begins with the laying of eggs                  
from June to July by moths. These moths, identifiable by pale                   
yellow wings banded with pink, emerge from their overwintering                  
stage to lay their pale green eggs on the undersides of maple                   
leaves. Larvae appear from these eggs in approximately ten days                 
and begin feeding immediately. The larvae feed for a month before               
returning to the soil for the pupal stage. In Virginia, there are               
typically two generations per year.                                             
                                                                                
A severe mapleworm attack can defoliate a tree twice in a single                
season but this can be avoided if proper precautions are taken                  
during the growing season. Large populations can be reduced by an               
effective spray program and damage in subsequent years should                   
decline. Though several insect parasites and birds aid in                       
control, a spray program is the best means of stopping a severe                 
infestation once the mapleworm has been identified. Consult your                
local extension agent for the most recent control recommendations               
for greenstriped mapleworm.                                                     
                                                                                
(See the Pest Management Guide for further control                              
recommendations.)                                                               
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
July 1987  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                   
                                                                                
This material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Horticulture Extension               
Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist Home                  
Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has been                       
developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                        
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
Cuttings From Flowering Shrubs                   17 lines                       
Fertilizing Hanging Baskets                       8 lines                       
Purple-leaved Redbud                             11 lines                       
Gaillardia                                       16 lines                       
Watering Plants in the Heat of the Day           10 lines                       
Remove Tips of Winter Squash                      7 lines                       
Hardy Ferns                                      19 lines                       
Gerberas                                         28 lines                       
Okra Harvest                                      7 lines                       
Sourwood                                         28 lines                       
Harvest Sweet Corn                                9 lines                       
Japanese Iris                                    21 lines                       
Crop Placement for Maximum Sunlight              26 lines                       
Pruning Boxwood                                  17 lines                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
I would like to increase my hedge of flowering shrubs. When can I               
take cuttings?                                                                  
                                                                                
Mid- to late July is a good time to take cuttings from many woody               
plants. Take cuttings  4-6 inches long, from this year's growth                 
as it begins to harden or mature. A cutting taken too soft will                 
rot. One that's too mature will not root.                                       
                                                                                
Dip the cuttings in a rooting hormone, and then place the end                   
about an inch deep in rooting medium such as a mixture of equal                 
parts peat moss and either coarse sand, or perlite.                             
                                                                                
Water well, then cover with a clear plastic bag. A few garden                   
labels or sticks will keep the bag from collapsing. Place in the                
shade and water if needed until roots form.                                     
                                                                                
Plant rooted cuttings in a cold frame for protection the first                  
winter. Shade them the summer after transplanting.                              
                                                                                
 ------                                                                         
                                                                                
My hanging baskets are looking a little yellow. What is the best                
way to fertilizer them?                                                         
                                                                                
The best way to fertilize hanging plants is to apply a diluted                  
solution of soluble fertilizer. Fertilizing every two weeks                     
according to package instructions will keep the plants vigorous                 
into the fall. Plants that are overgrown can be cut back and                    
reshaped.                                                                       
 -------                                                                        
                                                                                
On my vacation, I saw what appeared to be a purple leaved redbud.               
Is there a cultivar with this leaf color?                                       
                                                                                
The plant you saw was Cercis canadensis 'Forest Pansy'. The newly               
emerging leaves on 'Forest Pansy' are a bright and glossy dark                  
purple color turning a dark greenish purple with maturity. These                
plants may occasionally be found in retail nurseries. If you have               
access to a plant, cuttings may be grafted onto native redbud                   
rootstocks. Purple-foliaged woody ornamentals are sure to arouse                
interest. In addition to the redbud, there are the purple-leaved                
forms of Norway maple, flowering plum, European beech, hazelnut,                
birch, smoke bush, and flowering crabapples.                                    
                                                                                
 -----                                                                          
                                                                                
Is gaillardia an annual or a perennial?                                         
                                                                                
Both. The two commonly recognized species are the sun-loving                    
annual gaillardia, Gaillardia pulchella, and its perennial cousin               
the blanketflower, Gaillardia x grandiflora.                                    
                                                                                
Annual gaillardias bloom in midsummer from seeds. The annuals are               
propagated by seeds sown in the open where the plants are to                    
grow. They thrive on ordinary but well drained soil. The color                  
mixture includes yellow, orange, gold, maroon and red. Perennial                
can be propagated by seeds, cuttings taken in late summer, or by                
division in early spring.                                                       
                                                                                
Gaillardia flowers will last for a week or more when cut. Stems                 
on the 18-36 inch high plants are long and leafless. Regular                    
harvesting will prolong bloom.                                                  
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
Does it harm plants to water with a over head sprinkler in the                  
heat of the day?                                                                
                                                                                
No. However, overhead sprinkling results in water loss due to                   
evaporation. If you do water by a sprinkler, it is best to use it               
in early morning to reduce evaporation. Add water slowly so it                  
will soak deeply into the soil. Always water early enough in the                
day to allow foliage to dry out before night to reduce disease                  
problems.Consider trickle irrigation and mulches to conserve                    
water.                                                                          
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
Should I remove tips of winter squash vines late in the season?                 
                                                                                
You can remove tips of winter squash vines in late August to stop               
plants from spreading. Any fruits that set after that time will                 
not ripen before early fall frost. Winter squashes need a long,                 
warm growing season to fully mature and develop good texture,                   
sweetness and flavor.                                                           
                                                                                
 --------                                                                       
                                                                                
I would like to grow hardy ferns. What conditions should I                      
provide for their growth?                                                       
                                                                                
The main requirements for growing most of the common hardy ferns                
are shade and a light, highly organic moist soil. Given these                   
elements ferns will establish themselves quickly and thrive under               
minimal care. Plants should be set at soil level. Once the fronds               
have developed fully, mulch can be applied to maintain soil                     
moisture.                                                                       
                                                                                
Two fern species that merit special mention are the cinnamon and                
Japanese silver-painted fern. Cinnamon fern is a vigorous                       
specimen that withstands dry soil and partial shade. It is                      
recognizable for the wooly brown appearance of the unfurling                    
fronds. Japanese silver-painted fern is noted for the highly                    
visible silver-green fronds which contrast well with other shade                
plants such as hosta. Growing to a height of no more than 18                    
inches, this fern is particularly suitable for those shady yet                  
noticeable areas of a garden.                                                   
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
I enjoy flower arranging and am always on the look out for                      
something new. A florist arrangement that I received contained                  
gerbera daisy. What can you tell me about them?                                 
                                                                                
Gerber daisy, Gerbera Jamesonii, a long-time florist favorite, is               
readily available through a variety of sources for the home                     
flower garden. The expense of these plants has turned many a                    
gardener away. However with proper attention, the reward will be                
worth the investment.                                                           
                                                                                
Gerberas are versatile plants which provide a pleasing show in                  
containers, in the summer border, or as cut flowers. The flowers                
can last as long as two weeks when cut. It is usually best to                   
purchase started plants rather than seeds since their germination               
is erratic. A good routine for buying and maintaining gerberas is               
to purchase budded plants as soon as available in spring to be                  
used indoors. Once the threat of frost has passed, transplant                   
them outdoors into beds or larger containers for summer show. In                
the fall, the plants can be dug or left in the container and                    
brought indoors for winter bloom if placed in a cool, sunny                     
window. This system works well in most of the state but gardeners               
near the coast can usually leave their gerberas outdoors year                   
round and treat them as perennials.                                             
                                                                                
Once established, gerberas have vigorous deep reaching root                     
systems; therefore, they should be transferred to larger contain-               
ers once each year. When provided full sun and moist soil,                      
gerberas can remain an attractive plant for many years.                         
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
When do you harvest okra?                                                       
                                                                                
Harvest fruits while young and tender. For most cultivars, this                 
is when the fruits are 3 to 3 1/2 inches long. Begin cutting okra               
pods when the first fruits are ready and continue every 2 to 3                  
days throughout the season. If the pods are allowed to mature the               
plant will stop producing.                                                      
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
There is a small tree near the edge of my woods which produces                  
white blooms in the summer and the bees just flock to it. Can you               
tell me what it is and something about it?                                      
                                                                                
The tree you described sounds like sourwood, Oxydendrum arboreum.               
Sourwood produces beautiful flowers from June through July. The                 
urn shaped, 1/4 to 3/8 inch long, white, fragrant flowers are                   
borne in a 4 to 10 inch long panicle. The flowers appear as a                   
lacy veil over the entire tree.                                                 
                                                                                
Sourwood displays excellent shade tolerance although flowering                  
and fall color are maximized in full sun. It grows in mixed                     
forests with oaks, beeches, maples and hickories on well drained                
slopes. This pyramidal to oval shaped tree has a rather graceful                
demeanor. In Virginia, sourwood is generally a small 25-30 feet                 
tree, with a 20 foot spread. But it can grow much larger nearing                
heights of 50 to 75 feet in optimum conditions.                                 
                                                                                
Sourwood is a reliable landscape plant whose lustrous green, 3 to               
8 inch long leaves are handsome throughout spring and summer.                   
With the advent of fall, sourwood offers a splendid fall color                  
display of red, reddish purple, and scarlet.                                    
                                                                                
Transplanting sourwood may be difficult. Using balled and                       
burlapped or container produced small trees reduces transplanting               
problems. As the tree flowers at a young age from seed, the use                 
of small trees is not a great disadvantage. Soil should be acid                 
(5.5 to 6.5), peaty, moist but well drained.                                    
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
How can I tell when my sweet corn is ready for harvest?                         
                                                                                
When the silks dry up and the kernels begin to crowd each other                 
closely, the sweet corn should be mature. Pop a kernel with your                
thumb nail. If the juice is clear, the ear is immature. If the                  
juice is milky, pick a batch and eat. If it is pasty you've                     
missed the optimum time for a high quality harvest. With practice               
you can learn to judge the maturity of an ear by how it feels                   
without opening the husks.                                                      
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
A friend suggested that I add Japanese iris to my flower border                 
to extend the blooming season. When do they bloom? Are they hardy               
here? Please give me any other pertinent information.                           
                                                                                
The Japanese iris (Iris Kaempferi) is a showy garden flower that                
blooms from late June into July. Japanese iris are hardy                        
throughout Virginia. Their colors include shades of white, pink,                
lavender, blue and deep purple. The flowers come in single and                  
double forms with various patterns and contrasting veins                        
accentuating the blooms. The plants thrive under high moisture                  
conditions and must have acid soil. However, while the plants are               
not in active growth the soil should be maintained relatively                   
dry. A possible reason why Japanese iris have not been as popular               
as the German bearded iris is the relatively short life span of                 
each individual bloom. An average bloom will last two to three                  
days while the normal bearded iris bloom lasts for three to six                 
days. A program initiated by U.S.D.A. plant breeders has started                
breeding and selection processes in order to increase the bloom                 
period of Japanese iris. Some growers recommend applications of                 
liquid manure just before blooming if especially large flowers                  
are desired.                                                                    
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
I am planning my landscape and want to include fruit trees and                  
brambles as well as a vegetable garden. My space is limited. Can                
you give me some planning hints?                                                
                                                                                
In city backyards with many shade trees, fruit trees and                        
ornamentals, availability of sunny spaces for growing vegetable                 
crops is often a limiting factor. However, by careful planning in               
the placement of trees and vegetables you can maximize the                      
interception of sunlight. Here are a few tips that may help.                    
                                                                                
Where possible place fruit trees, brambles and asparagus beds                   
along the north or west side of the garden area so shadows are                  
cast away from the garden.                                                      
                                                                                
Plant tall vegetables such as pole-beans, tomatoes and sweet corn               
toward the north side to avoid shading low-growing crops. For                   
successive plantings of sweet corn, start at the north side and                 
continue toward the south. Also, each corn planting should be in                
small blocks rather than in a single row to achieve better                      
pollination.                                                                    
                                                                                
Another suggestion is to use light reflecting material such as                  
white painted plywood or a white plastic fence angled to give                   
maximum sun reflection. This could also be accompanied by white                 
plastic mulch around each plant to increase the chance of light                 
reflection.                                                                     
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
How should I prune a large boxwood?                                             
                                                                                
Boxwood foliage is very dense. Outer shoots should be pruned so                 
that inner shoots can get light and air. Smaller branches should                
be removed at their juncture with larger branches by snapping                   
them out by hand with a twisting motion. Small hand pruners can                 
be used if you prefer. In this way air circulation is increased                 
without ruining the form of the plant. The plant should never be                
sheared. Shearing will create a thin outer layer of foliage and                 
large holes may appear due to damage such as ice breakage. The                  
bare branches beneath this hole will eventually fill in the void                
but because of the slow growth rate the process will take years.                
                                                                                
At least once a year, remove debris (leaves, twigs, etc.) that                  
have accumulated in your boxwoods. Much of it will come out if                  
you shake the bushes vigorously. Pick out the rest. If debris is                
not removed, it may promote disease.                                            
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Monthly Notes June 1986                                                         
                                                                                
* Plants may wilt from a lack of oxygen rather than a lack                      
of water. When the soil is compacted, the plant's tender feeder                 
roots and root hairs suffocate. The problem is compounded when                  
the well-meaning gardener assumes that the wilting is a sign of                 
water stress and immediately irrigates. Well-aerated soil,                      
enriched with organic matter, allows both air and water to                      
circulate freely about the root system for a vigorous plant.                    
                                                                                
* For very efficient, steady feeding of vegetables sink a                       
large can or bucket with many holes in its sides into the soil                  
and fill it about 2/3 full of rotted manure or compost; rain                    
or occasional watering will keep a rich supply of nutrients                     
seeping out to feed plants in a circle several feet wide.                       
                                                                                
* Divide spring and early summer flowering perennials. Instead                  
of severing the clump in half, try jiggling the roots apart                     
with two, sharp, spading forks. This takes more time, but consid-               
erably less root area is lost during division.                                  
                                                                                
* Stop cutting asparagus in mid or late June when the spears                    
become thin. Allow the tops to grow during the summer to store                  
food in the roots for the crop next spring.                                     
                                                                                
* As soon as the last cutting of asparagus is made, remove all                  
the weeds from the bed and fertilize with a 10-10-10 formula at                 
the rate of 3 pounds per 50 foot row.                                           
                                                                                
* To prevent overwatering of plants in containers without drain                 
holes, stick two or three plastic straws vertically down into the               
layer of gravel or rocks at the bottom of the pot before plant-                 
ing. Then cut them off just above the soil surface after plant-                 
ing. This will allow evaporation of excess moisture in the                      
drainage layer.                                                                 
                                                                                
* If in clay pots, plunge house plant pots to the rim in a                      
partially shaded flower bed or border for the summer. If in                     
glazed or plastic containers, remove the pot.                                   
                                                                                
* Energy Reporter - The Citizens' Newsletter of the Federal                     
Energy Administration says that, "a tall evergreen hedge north                  
of your home can cut heating bills by 34% in windswept regions                  
or by 10% in sheltered areas." As costs go up, this figure must                 
increase.                                                                       
                                                                                
* To get faster growth from your trees and shrubs, mulch is                     
better than grass or ground covers. In three experiments across                 
the country, researchers have shown that a variety of trees and                 
shrubs including dogwood, forsythia, Burford holly, Japanese                    
black pine and cottonwood had growth reduced significantly by                   
both ground covers and grasses.                                                 
                                                                                
* According to tests conducted by VA Tech Department of Human                   
Nutrition and Foods, microwave-blanched vegetables have less                    
flavor and poorer color and texture than vegetables blanched                    
with hot water or steam.                                                        
                                                                                
* Before pouring gasoline into the fuel tank of your lawn mower,                
garden tillers or other equipment, be sure to turn off engine                   
and allow to cool 5 minutes.                                                    
                                                                                
* Do not allow children to ride or drive riding lawn mowers. They               
are more dangerous than they appear. Always disengage the mower                 
blades and set the brake before getting off for any reason.                     
                                                                                
* Remove old flower heads from bedding plants to prolong the                    
period of bloom.                                                                
                                                                                
* Remove foliage from spring bulbs after it turns yellow and                    
begins to dry. Set out bedding plants in space previously                       
occupied by foliage, using care not to damage bulbs.                            
                                                                                
* Lacebugs feed on azaleas, pyrcantha and other woody plants                    
causing a gray, blanched or stippled appearance on the upper                    
surface of the leaves.                                                          
                                                                                
* Watch for and control blackspot and powdery mildew on rose                    
foliage.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Continue plantings of warm season crops such as beans, squash                 
and tomatoes. Toward the end of the month, start seeds of Chinese               
cabbage and cauliflower for fall harvest.                                       
                                                                                
* Yellow flowered perennials which abound this month include: St.               
John's Wort (Hypericum); Evening Primrose (Oenothera); yellow                   
loostrife (Lysimachia punctattta).                                              
                                                                                
* For hanging baskets in a cool shady location, select trailing                 
tuberous begonias, fuchsias, ferns, English ivy, impatiens or                   
fiberous rooted begonias in combination with trailing plants.                   
                                                                                
* When trimming grass with a power tool using rapidly spinning                  
monofilament line, be careful around young trees and shrubs.                    
Tender bark can easily be damaged, opening the tree to insect and               
disease problems.                                                               
                                                                                
* House plants may be kept in good condition for several weeks                  
while one is on vacation by using clear plastic bags as miniature               
greenhouses. Simply soak the pot thoroughly, allow to drain, then               
place the potted plant into a plastic bag. Tie the opening                      
tightly. By inserting two or more sticks in the soil before the                 
bag is put on, one may support the plastic-like tent and prevent                
it from resting on the plants. Plants, such as African violets,                 
that are apt to develop mildew should have a few air holes for                  
air circulation.                                                                
                                                                                
* When going on vacation, arrange for someone to mow your lawn                  
and harvest your garden.                                                        
                                                                                
* Spring flowering shrubs such as deutzia, weigela, vibrunum                    
and forsythia, should be pruned as soon as they complete bloom.                 
                                                                                
* Additional pruning may be required this month on fast-growing,                
narrow, leaf evergreens such as junipers and yews as well as                    
plants such as privet to maintain a desirable shape during the                  
growing season.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Many garden plants will appreciate a sidedressing of 5-10-10                  
at the rate of 1 lbs per 100 ft of row applied 4 to 6 weeks                     
after plants are established. Avoid sidedressing tomatoes,                      
eggplants and peppers until they have set their first fruit.                    
                                                                                
* Keep a close eye on the quality of your spring crops. Hot                     
weather causes lettuce to bolt and become bitter. Plant a warm                  
season crop as soon as the spring vegetables are removed.                       
                                                                                
* Drying grass clippings from your lawn before using them as                    
mulch keeps them from packing down, fermenting and smelling. If                 
you spray your lawn with weed killers, compost the clippings                    
before using them in the garden.                                                
                                                                                
* Rock gardens can be an interesting and challenging hobby for                  
the gardener.  A few perennials species that can be used success-               
fully are: Ajuga, Thrift, Sedum, Creeping Phlox, and Violas.                    
These can be planted in either spring or early fall, although                   
spring planting requires more attention to regular watering.                    
                                                                                
* Mid-to-late June is an excellent time to take softwood cuttings               
of shrubs to start new plants.  Some examples are spirea,                       
boxwood, and azalea.                                                            
                                                                                
* When you buy nursery stock that is container grown, check the                 
root ball and make sure its not bound too tightly.  As big mass                 
of circling roots will stay that way, even after it is in the                   
ground.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Large mesh wire has many uses in the garden: for a tomato                     
cage, as a compost bin, to hold down black plastic, to hold                     
mulches in place, or to use as a half-cylinder with plastic over                
it as a small greenhouse.                                                       
                                                                                
* If you don't have much landscaping space, consider using some                 
of the many available dwarf varieties.  These are plants that                   
have slow growth and stay small, so there is little pruning                     
maintenance.  There are numerous evergreens and flowering trees                 
and shrubs to choose from.                                                      
                                                                                
* When selecting a window box, it is best to use a wooden box.                  
Metal ones are more likely to overheat if sitting in the hot                    
summer sun.  Also the wooden boxes allow for drainage, whereas                  
the metal ones often do not. The color of the box also should be                
considered:  dark ones get warmer than light-colored boxes.                     
                                                                                
* Watch for insects now and keep to spray schedule on those                     
plants which need it throughout the summer.                                     
                                                                                
* Plant tropical water-lilies early in summer.                                  
                                                                                
* Rambling and climbing roses should be pruned immediately                      
after blooming.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Weed cultivation is important for a number of reasons:  it                    
conserves moisture, conserves nutrients in the soil, and helps                  
prevent the spread of disease and insects.                                      
                                                                                
* For hot summer months, mulch can be especially beneficial for                 
conserving water.  For the vegetable garden, leaves are a good                  
mulch material.  For ornamentals, pine needles or bark do the                   
best job.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Spread organic mulch in the garden once the soil has warmed and               
seedlings are about six inches tall.                                            
                                                                                
* Take care that newly planted materials receive a thorough                     
soaking each week.  Soak, do not sprinkle.  Mulch to conserve the               
moisture.  It is helpful to make a well for the water to collect                
in when mulching around trees.                                                  
                                                                                
* A sundial should be set on June 15th.  Place it so that the                   
shadow falls on 12:00 o'clock at exactly noon on this date.                     
                                                                                
* After your vegetable garden is well established, it is best to                
water it thoroughly once a week rather than a light watering                    
everyday.  That way, a deeper root system is encouraged which                   
will later help the plants tolerate dry weather.  Generally, an                 
application of one inch of water to the surface will wet soil to                
six or eight inches deep.                                                       
                                                                                
* A method of composting for limited space is to put all of the                 
compost materials (leaves, soil, weeds, kitchen garbage, and                    
manure) in a large polyethylene bag, moisten thoroughly, tie the                
top tightly and leave it out in the sun.  Kick the bag around                   
occasionally and let in fresh air every 2 weeks.  Before long you               
will have a convenient bag of well-rotten compost.                              
                                                                                
* Birds will generally not be scared away by scarecrows.  Try                   
instead tying pieces of glass, colored cloth, or tin to loose                   
strings so the wind can blow them and slash them together.                      
Random motion is the key to alarming the birds away from the                    
garden.                                                                         
                                                                                
* If you plant your Easter lily outdoors, it may flower again in                
late August.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Many of the weeds which occur in lawns are indicator plants                   
which signal poor growing conditions for turf grass.  Ground ivy,               
chickweed and violets often sprout up in places too shady for                   
most turf grasses. Sorrel, daisies and dock indicate a change to                
an acidic condition due to poor aeration and drainage, and lack                 
of humus.  Wild mustard, morning glories and quack grass warn of                
crusty soil and possible hard pan development.  The presence of                 
moss tells of soil compaction, poor drainage or fertility, or                   
excessive shade.  Before you begin weed control, consider                       
correcting the factors favorable to the weeds.                                  
                                                                                
* Lawn clippings return valuable nutrients especially nitrogen to               
turf grass.  Rake up grass clippings only when the grass has                    
grown unusually tall between mowings.                                           
                                                                                
* June is a great time to clean out the greenhouse.  Discard dead               
or diseased plants and old potting soil.  Good sanitation is                    
necessary to control greenhouse pests.                                          
                                                                                
* Remove crusted mineral salts from clay pots by soaking pots in                
water for a few days.  Start with hot water and renew the hot                   
bath several times. Scrub off heavy salt buildup with steel wool                
and dish detergent. Sterilize pots before reuse by soaking them                 
for ten minutes in a solution of 9 parts water to 1 part bleach.                
To reduce salt buildup on clay pots, wipe them weekly with a                    
cloth soaked in white vinegar.                                                  
                                                                                
* Pinch off faded magnolia flowers to stimulate new growth and                  
thicken the crown.                                                              
                                                                                
* The best time to harvest most herbs is just before flowering,                 
when their leaves contain the maximum essential oils.  Cut herbs                
early on a sunny day.                                                           
                                                                                
* Strawberries picked early in the day keep best.  Do not wash or               
stem berries until ready to use.  Store berries in covered                      
containers in the refrigerator.                                                 
                                                                                
* Only the uppermost ear or two develops to maturity in sweet                   
corn.  Any undeveloped lower ears can be picked just after the                  
silk appears and used in stir-fry vegetables, salads, or pickled.               
                                                                                
* Broken branches and suckers of tomato plants will often root if               
stuck into loose, moist soil.                                                   
                                                                                
* A new edible green called 'Tyfon' has been developed by                       
crossing turnips with Chinese cabbage.  Tyfon is frost tolerant,                
quick growing and capable of generating a second cutting in 3-4                 
weeks.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Identify garden pests before you attempt to control them.  If                 
you decide to use a chemical control, read the label carefully to               
be sure the chemical is compatible with the plant.  Make sure you               
apply the proper amount at the proper time.  Consult with your                  
local extension agent if you have questions about pesticides.                   
                                                                                
* Protect yourself, your family, and your pets from contact with                
pesticides.  Wear protective clothing and spray only on calm                    
days.  Wash your hands and clothing thoroughly after using garden               
chemicals.                                                                      
                                                                                
* To protect the bees which pollinate many of our crop plants,                  
spray in the evening after bees have returned to their hives.                   
                                                                                
* Heavy rains encourage slug problems.                                          
                                                                                
* Japanese beetle traps are most effective in neighborhoods where               
most residents use them.  An isolated trap or two can actually                  
draw the insects to your yard.  Traps should be placed at least                 
25' from fruit trees and roses to lure the pests away from                      
treasured plants.                                                               
                                                                                
* The same effect is true with the use of milky spore (Bacillus                 
popilliae). If your neighbors also apply the soil treatment                     
it will be most effective.  Otherwise Japanese beetle larvae                    
hatching in other yards will reinfest your property.                            
                                                                                
* Complaints and inquiries about questionable gardening advertis-               
ements can be sent to The Garden Writers Association of America                 
(GWAA) Horticultural Advertising Ethics Committee.  Mr. Jack                    
Siebenthaler, Chairman of the Ethics Committee, can be contacted                
at P.O. Box 6524, Clearwater, FL  33518.                                        
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Press Releases June 1986                                                        
                                                                                
Tomato Problems Caused by Culture or Environment    60 lines                    
Pinching and Disbudding Flowers                     52 lines                    
Garden Construction on a Budget                     65 lines                    
Iris Care                                           69 lines                    
Plants Have Many Roles                              72 lines                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
Tomato Problems Caused by Culture or Environment                                
                                                                                
Bossom End Rot. If your tomatoes appear to be inedible because                  
of large, dark, leathery areas on the end of the fruit where the                
blossom was, the problem may be blossom end rot. This is a                      
physiological problem associated with a water/calcium imbalance                 
in the plant. It is not caused by a fungus. Fungicides, there-                  
fore, will not correct the problem, although they may protect                   
the fruit from secondary fungi.                                                 
                                                                                
Blossom end rot occurs when there are dramatic fluctuations in                  
the amount of moisture the plant can absorb. These fluctuations                 
may be caused by heavy rainfall, drought or root injury. A lack                 
of calcium in the soil increases the severity of the problem.                   
                                                                                
To prevent blossom end rot, make sure the soil has sufficient                   
calcium. A standard soil test will indicate whether sufficient                  
calcium is present. Next, make sure your tomatoes receive a                     
constant, but not excessive supply of water. Adding organic                     
matter to the soil prior to planting will help, as will a layer                 
of mulch placed around the tomatoes.                                            
                                                                                
Always practice shallow cultivation in order to avoid injuring                  
tomato roots. Avoid applications of high nitrogen fertili-                      
zer, which promotes rapid growth. Superphosphate fertilizers                    
like 4-12-4, 5-20-5, and others are much better and contain                     
calcium, which may reduce blossom end rot.                                      
                                                                                
If your tomatoes develop blossom end rot, don't be too discour-                 
aged. The condition should correct itself when moisture fluctau-                
tions cease. Tomatoes which have blossom end rot may be usable.                 
Simply cut out the affected area if it is not too large.                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
Tomato Leaf Roll. Another tomato problem brought on by enviro-                  
nmental conditions is tomato leaf roll. The symptoms of this                    
nonparasitic disease usually begin with curling up of the                       
bottom leaflets. This curling may become so severe that the leaf                
margins touch or even overlap. Once the leaves are curled, they                 
will not unfold. Affected leaves will be firm and leathery.                     
                                                                                
Several conditions contribute to the development of tomato leaf                 
roll. Tomato plants that are severely pruned or have their root                 
system damaged by deep cultivation or moisture extremes are                     
likely to develop leaf roll. The condition is common following                  
heavy rains which keep the soil waterlogged. Some tomato varie-                 
ties are more susceptible to leaf roll than others.                             
                                                                                
Since tomato leaf roll is a nonparasitic disease, there is no                   
disease organism involved; therefore, pesticides will not prevent               
leaf roll of tomato plants. The problem can be avoided to a                     
great extent by planting tomatoes in well drained soil. However,                
the problem may develop during periods of heavy or prolonged                    
rain, regardless of soil condition.                                             
                                                                                
Tomato leaf roll does not normally affect the growth of the                     
plant. Tomato plants showing the condition should produce a                     
normal crop. Fruits may develop sunscald if the leaf roll is                    
severe and exposes them to full sunlight. Overall, tomato                       
leaf roll is nothing to worry about.                                            
                                                                                
                                                                                
Pinching and Disbudding Flowers                                                 
                                                                                
The training of the annual flowers in your garden can be as                     
fascinating as the pruning of your shrubs. In fact, it may be                   
more rewarding because you will see the results of your effort                  
within a very short time.                                                       
                                                                                
One of the first training operations is to pinch back the main                  
stems of your plants to encourage bushy growth. This should be                  
done with annuals such as petunia, snapdragon and zinnia.                       
                                                                                
Pinch off an inch of the top of the stem when the young plants                  
are 4 to 5 inches tall. This will cause side branches to develop                
on the lower part of the stem. To obtain very dense, bushy                      
plants, pinch back a second time when the laterals attain a 4                   
or 5 inch length. The double pinching of annual flowers will                    
produce a compact plant with many blooms. This procedure will                   
give large numbers of flowers for arrangements in the home, or a                
mass of blooms in the flower bed or border.                                     
                                                                                
Another type of training which you might want to practice is                    
disbudding. Remove all buds as they develop except the one at                   
the top. When you allow only the top bud to grow, it receives                   
all the food from the leaves on that stem and becomes a large                   
fine flower. This is the way to produce superior specimens for                  
flower shows.                                                                   
                                                                                
Disbudding is easy. While flowering stems are developing look                   
for the buds that form in the angles of the leaves along the                    
side of the stem. When these become large enough to be seen                     
easily, remove them by bending them to the side and snapping                    
them off at the base. Inspect your plants every few days because                
these lateral buds grow very fast during the early summer.                      
                                                                                
Pinching and disbudding are especially useful practices for                     
raising large chrysanthemums. As a rule the plant should be                     
pinched only once, and only two or three stems allowed to grow                  
on each plant. Remove all other lateral branches as they develop.               
                                                                                
To secure long-stemmed, exhibition type chrysanthemums you                      
should tie the two or three stems of each plant to separate                     
stakes or vertical string supports. Be sure to watch for buds                   
along the side of stems and remove them as soon as possible.                    
                                                                                
Roses should also be disbudded. As the stems develop, remove all                
side buds when they become about a half inch long. You will have                
fewer roses on your bushes, but the ones you do have will be                    
large beautiful specimens.                                                      
                                                                                
Remove all faded flowers from annuals and roses as soon as they                 
die. This will cause plants to continue to bloom throughout                     
summer.                                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
Garden Construction on a Budget                                                 
                                                                                
Many gardeners feel caught in a classic approach/avoidance                      
conflict. On the approach side, there are many projects to make                 
the yard more attractive, easier to care for, and more useful                   
for entertaining friends or just relaxing. On the avoidance side,               
money is often tight, and projects cost money.                                  
                                                                                
Of course, staying home and building a patio is cheaper than a                  
family vacation. But if you can't afford either one this year,                  
you need to learn the fine art of scrounging.                                   
                                                                                
A primary requirement for good scrounging is an active imagina-                 
tion. You've got to see possibilities in things others have                     
thrown or might throw away; might give away if properly asked;                  
or, as a last resort, might sell cheaply.                                       
                                                                                
Among the most familiar recycled materials found in the home                    
garden are railroad ties, broken concrete, salvaged timbers,                    
scrap lumber, slab wood, and used brick. With more imagination,                 
old tires, wire cable spools, wooden crates and pallets can be                  
used effectively. Some materials can be obtained for the hauling                
and others for a small investment, while others are lucrative                   
businesses for someone. Each has merits and drawbacks to be                     
considered.                                                                     
                                                                                
Railroad ties, about 6 x 8 inches of rough timber 8 feet long,                  
are usually pressure treated with creasote. They can be toxic to                
plants unless weathered for several years. The condition of the                 
tie and the type of wood varies, as does the cost. Ties are                     
especially good for low walls, such as raised beds, steps and                   
curbing. Treated timber, about 4 x 4 inches and larger, generally               
can be found in better condition and with a greater choice of                   
sizes than railroad ties. However, prices are much higher.                      
                                                                                
Scrap lumber from construction projects, demolitions or similar                 
sources is usally free but may be difficult to work with due to                 
varying sizes, nails, and chemical treatment. Avoid wood treated                
with pentachlorophynol (Penta), a wood preservative, as it                      
remains quite toxic to plants for many years. Penta is no longer                
being used to treat new wood but you may find it on some recycled               
lumber.                                                                         
                                                                                
If you live near a timber area, slab wood (the bark and timber                  
left after cutting a round log into a square beam), can be had                  
for free or up to about $8 a pickup load. What you don't burn to                
heat your house, can be used to build raised beds, rustic sheds,                
fences, and other structures.                                                   
                                                                                
Broken concrete, in sizes approximately 4 inches thick by 12                    
inches wide by 24 inches long, can be stacked for garden walls.                 
Leave pockets for plants spaced along the wall. For patios, odd                 
shapes of concrete result in a flagstone appearance and lend                    
themselves well to interplanting. An acid stain will give                       
concrete a more stonelike appearance.                                           
                                                                                
Used bricks can be less expensive and more attractive than new                  
ones in a rustic garden setting. Beware of using brick from                     
the inner layers of thick brick walls or from buildings that                    
have burned. They may not be weather resistant and you may end                  
up with a "brick dust" patio.                                                   
                                                                                
As your scrounging experience grows, so will your imagination                   
and quick eye. There are even stories of one gardener who used                  
bed springs to trellis his cucumbers.                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
Iris Care                                                                       
                                                                                
Bearded iris in the perennial border should be divided and                      
replanted in midsummer. The best time is immediately after the                  
blooming season is completed. The operation may be delayed until                
fall, but summer is preferred by most growers. When clumps                      
are divided at this time, the new plants will become well                       
established before winter and be ready to produce a fine crop of                
flowers next spring.                                                            
                                                                                
The bearded iris has a fleshy rhizome or stem which grows along                 
the surface of the soil. New side buds are developed each year                  
until a large network of branched rhizomes is established. If                   
large blooms are desired, the plants should be divided and                      
replanted every three to five years, depending on the density of                
the clump.                                                                      
                                                                                
In preparing to replant bearded iris, cut the leaves back to                    
about six inches. Then, with a pointed shovel dig around all                    
sides of the plant and lift the entire clump out of the ground.                 
Wash away the soil. With a sharp knife cut off the short side                   
branches which have a cluster of leaves at the end. Discard the                 
old center portion of the clump.                                                
                                                                                
Inspect each rhizome for signs of insect feeding or decay. The                  
most serious insect pest of iris, the iris borer, are often                     
found at this time. Check the rhizome for the 1 1/4 inch long,                  
pinkish larvae with a row of black spots down the sides, and                    
check the soil for the inch-long borer pupae. Destroy any that                  
are found. Rhizomes infested with borers may also be infected                   
with bacterial soft rot. Remove diseased areas with a knife. If                 
extensive rot is present, discard the entire rhizome.                           
                                                                                
Replant the new divisions after cutting the roots back to about                 
two inches. Plant in well drained soil and cover about one inch                 
deep. In heavy or poorly drained soils the top of the rhizome                   
should be exposed to reduce the possibility of rot.                             
                                                                                
After the planting operation is completed, apply a side dressing                
of 5-10-5 fertilizer at the rate of about two pounds per 100                    
feet of row. Scratch the fertilizer into the top inch of soil and               
water thoroughly. Apply a very light mulch of sawdust or peat                   
moss to help conserve soil moisture. Do not use a heavy mulch                   
which may increase the possibility of rhizome rot. Additional                   
water may be needed every two weeks during periods of drought.                  
                                                                                
After the ground has frozen, apply additional mulch. This will                  
conserve moisture and help to prevent the alternate freezing and                
thawing of the soil that may push plants out of the ground.                     
                                                                                
Irises grown from divisions should bloom the next spring after                  
planting. For a quick flower display, plant three individual                    
rhizomes 8 to 10 inches apart. But remember, the more closely                   
together iris rhizomes are planted, the sooner they will need to                
be divided.                                                                     
                                                                                
The same planting procedure is suggested for dwarf and interme-                 
diate bearded irises. Try some of these shorter types to add new                
interest to the garden. Dwarf varieties bloom in early spring,                  
followed by the intermediate and then the tall types. Some of                   
the intermediate varieities produce a second crop of flowers in                 
the fall.                                                                       
                                                                                
You might also consider planting some of the crested irises.                    
This is a dwarf type which is related to the bearded iris. The                  
plants grow to a height of six to nine inches, and are ideal for                
the rock garden or low border. This type received its name from                 
the crest of tissue along the falls (flower petals oriented                     
downward) in place of the beard.                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Plants Have Many Roles                                                          
                                                                                
Plants do a lot for people...they clean the atmosphere, modify                  
climate, abate noise, inhibit glare and control erosion. In                     
addition, many are lovely to the eye and tasty to eat.                          
                                                                                
Plants clean and purify existing air as well as manufacture                     
oxygen. Each person requires 30 to 60 pounds of clean air to                    
breathe each day. Ornamental plants provide clean air in four                   
ways: First, their "manufactured" air created through photosyn-                 
thesis dilutes polluted air and increases the ratio of "clean                   
to dirty" air.                                                                  
      Second, moisture that plants give off traps airborne                      
particles and acts as a filter for some pollutants. A single,                   
mature apple tree gives off 300 gallons of water per day.                       
      Third, hairy leaves and stems of many plants trap airborne                
particles and hold them until they are washed to the ground by                  
rain. In one large city, the dust count on the down-wind side of                
a heavily planted area measured 75 percent lower than a similar                 
count on the up-wind side.                                                      
      Fourth, trees can slow the air movement sufficiently for                  
heavier dust particles and pollutants to settle.                                
      Additionally, Fumes and odors can be masked by plants with                
particularly fragrant blooms or foliage.                                        
                                                                                
By modifying the intensity of sunlight and by wind and humidity                 
control, plants can have a significant impact on the temperature                
around the home. The shady area under trees is cooler because of                
both an increase in moisture and a decrease in direct solar                     
radiation.                                                                      
                                                                                
Trees not only give off moisture, but the leaf canopy tends to                  
prevent moisture-laden air from moving away. This moist air is                  
more difficult to heat than dry air and can help reduce the                     
temperature near the tree.                                                      
                                                                                
Trees are also effective at shielding something from the sun's                  
radiation. Leaves, twigs and branches absorb part of the radia-                 
tion, transmit a smaller portion, and reflect the rest.                         
                                                                                
There are several more ways plants can modify the climate. One                  
important way is to use trees that are deciduous (those which                   
lose their leaves in the winter) in landscaping, to reduce both                 
heating and cooling bills. Trees planted so that they reflect the               
sun away from the house and shade it during the summer help keep                
the house cool. In the winter, when they have lost their leaves,                
the sun is able to reach the house and warm it.                                 
                                                                                
Noise can be reduced with properly placed ornamental plantings.                 
Trees, shrubs, vines and turf absorb noises. Plant parts break                  
up sound waves, changing their direction and reducing their                     
intensity. Densely growing plants are best for sound control but                
the width of the planting is critical. To effectively screen                    
highway noises, plantings would have to be 25 to 35 feet thick.                 
Plant sounds, such as rustling leaves, help conceal or disguise                 
offensive noises.                                                               
                                                                                
Glare from car headlights can be annoying. Control of such glare                
can be achieved by placing buffer plantings between the light                   
source and the room. Place them close to the house to be most                   
effective.                                                                      
                                                                                
A secondary source of glare, such as reflected sunlight from                    
pavements, can be reduced by plants too. Plants, even in tubs or                
containers, can be used to visually "break up" or soften a                      
reflective surface. The light is reflected to the plant, which                  
softens it by diffraction before it reaches the viewers' eyes.                  
                                                                                
Finally, erosion control is an important role for plants. Trees,                
shrubs, vines, ground covers and grasses help prevent serious                   
erosion by intercepting and breaking the impact of raindrops and                
by holding the soil in place with their roots.                                  
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
June 1986 The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                    
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan and Debbie Blosser,               
Horticulture Extension Technicians, working with Diane Relf,                    
Extension Specialist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener                   
Question Box has been developed for agent use in preparing radio                
and newspaper features.                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
Dioecious Landscape Trees                          14 lines                     
Yam or Sweet Potato?                               32 lines                     
Choosing a Garden Sprayer                          79 lines                     
Perking Up Early Vegetables in an Organic Garden   24 lines                     
Petunia Groupings                                  15 lines                     
Lady's Mantle - Perennial Border Plant             14 lines                     
Japanese Clethra                                   26 lines                     
Chinese Scholar Tree                               12 lines                     
Why Radishes Go to Seed                             9 lines                     
Lath House Construction                            38 lines                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
Which trees are separated by sexes?  Do I always want both male                 
and female ornamentals in my yard?                                              
                                                                                
Persimmon, holly, ash, most maples, box elder, yew, cottonwood,                 
ginkgo, juniper, and some others are dioecious; that is, they                   
have male and female flowers on different plants. In the land-                  
scape, it is important to plant both sexes in order to produce                  
fruit or ornamental berries on persimmon and holly. Most others                 
are attractive in either sex with the exceptions of cottonwood                  
and ginkgo. Female cottonwoods produce fluffy "cotton" tufted                   
seeds. Many homeowners find this  fiber a nuisance and look for                 
male trees sold as "cottonless cottonwoods." Also avoid female                  
ginkgos which produce large, malodorous, fleshy, naked seeds                    
which resemble plum-shaped fruit. You would not want these                      
in your yard. Luckily, male clones are sold at most nurseries.                  
Before purchasing ginkgos, make sure the nursery guarantees only                
male plants.                                                                    
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
What is the difference between yams and sweet potatoes?                         
                                                                                
Sweet potatoes are not true yams--they belong to the morning                    
glory family (Convolvulaceae), while true yams belong to the                    
Dioscoreaceae family which grow only in the tropics. The true                   
yam is rarely available anywhere in the U.S. even though some say               
a few may be found in the extreme southern part of the United                   
States.                                                                         
                                                                                
The term "yam" is used here as a trade name that refers to the                  
moist flesh type of sweet potato. The department of Agriculture                 
designates sweet potatoes as 'dry flesh' or as 'moist flesh'                    
according to the sensation experienced in the mouth during the                  
eating of cooked sweet potatoes. (The terms do not refer to the                 
actual moisture content of the potato.)                                         
                                                                                
Yam seems to sound better on restaurant menus and yams with ham                 
goes better in supermarket advertising especially around the                    
holidays. But chances are very good that the yams you eat are                   
really sweet potatoes.                                                          
                                                                                
Plant traditional vining type sweet potatoes in raised ridges, in               
light, deep, loose soils. Ridges permit fast growth of smooth,                  
properly shaped roots and make digging easier. Set plants when                  
danger of killing frost has passed. Leave 6 to 8 inches between                 
them and 3 feet between rows. Some varieties require only a foot                
of row space because they are the new "vineless" type.                          
                                                                                
Harvest before frost--handle roots carefully to prevent cuts,                   
bruises and broken roots. Use sweet potatoes soon after harvest.                
Either cook the potatoes and freeze them, or cure the roots                     
thoroughly at 75 to 80 F. and store in a well-ventilated location               
at 50 to 60 F.                                                                  
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
What should I look for in choosing a garden sprayer or duster?                  
                                                                                
Before choosing a sprayer, consider how it will be used. The size               
of your yard and the type of spraying jobs to be done will help                 
you determine which sprayer is best for your needs. Choose a                    
sprayer that applies the spray with the right pressure, in the                  
right amount and pattern, and right on target. This will insure                 
complete converage of plants without waste.                                     
                                                                                
One of the most popular tools for applying pesticides is the                    
compressed-air sprayer. Highly versatile, it is ideal for almost                
any yard and garden spraying. You can also use it to control                    
crawling insects in and around your home. Compressed air sprayers               
are available in capacities from one to five gallons. In select-                
ing the sprayer that is the right size for you, remember that 1                 
gallon of water weighs 8 pounds. Therefore, a 5 gallon sprayer                  
weighs 40 pounds. Can you carry it?                                             
                                                                                
Compressed air sprayers give you control over the spray in these                
five important ways:                                                            
1. You mix the spray concentrate exactly as recommended for                     
best results.                                                                   
2. You control the pressure--high for a penetrating mist on                     
leafy plants; low for a coarse non-drift spray, ideal for                       
lawn weeds.                                                                     
3. The on-off control is instant, so you spray just to the                      
point of run-off without drenching or waste.                                    
4. With a long hose and extension, you can easily spray on                      
target to cover the entire plant and reach under leaves                         
where insects settle and some plant diseases begin.                             
5. You control the spray pattern--mist or coarse, close-up                      
or long range. Adjustable nozzle allows you to effectively                      
control different types of problems.                                            
                                                                                
Gardeners find added convenience in cordless electric sprayers.                 
With virtually the same performance as a compressed air sprayer,                
the cordless electric sprayer has an adjustable, nozzle, spray                  
extension and instant on-off control. Its lightweight and compact               
design make it easy to use and carry anywhere. A self-contained                 
battery supplies power for up to 45 minutes on an overnight                     
charge, more than enough for most lawn and garden spraying jobs.                
                                                                                
If trees need protection, a slide-type trombone sprayer sprays at               
high pressure to reach trees as high as 25 feet. The nozzle also                
adjusts to a fine spray good for low growing plants such as                     
flowers, vegetables, and shrubs. The sprayer draws the spray                    
material from a separate container such as a bucket.                            
                                                                                
For those with small gardens or patio plants, a hand sprayer with               
a one or two quart container is convenient and effective. These                 
sprayers develop pressure high enough to break up the spray                     
material into fine droplets. This is essential for enveloping the               
entire plant. Make sure the nozzle is adjustable, and the spray                 
can be directed under the leaves for complete coverage.                         
                                                                                
If you have a really large yard or garden, you might appreciate                 
the ease and big capacity (10 to 50 gallons) of a power sprayer.                
With power supplied by either a gas engine or electric moter, the               
power sprayer's high pressure assures extra range as well as                    
thorough coverage. Models are available that attach to lawn                     
tractors. Special accessories are also available further increas-               
ing this sprayer's convenience and versatility.                                 
                                                                                
The hose-end sprayer is a bottle with hose attachments which                    
holds liquid pesticides. The pesticide is mixed with water in a                 
certain ratio as the water flows out of the garden hose. These                  
devices are inexpensive and serve the purpose quite adequately;                 
however, it may take some figuring to get the appropriate ratio                 
of pesticide to water. An adjustable nozzle is a good feature. An               
antisiphon device should be part of a hose-end sprayer because if               
there is drop in your water pressure, the chemicals can be sucked               
up into your water system. The extra price you may have to pay                  
for this safety feature will be well worth the peace of mind.                   
                                                                                
A duster is a handy applicator for homeowners who prefer using                  
dust formulations to protect their plants and flowers. Be sure to               
choose a duster that has a long extension and adjustable nozzle.                
This will allow you to put the dust right where it is needed,                   
especially under leaves. (Adapted from article by extension                     
agents Michael L. Henry and Richard A. Nunnally)                                
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
I plant radishes every year. Except for the first harvest in                    
spring, I seldom get any more with good roots. What am I doing                  
wrong?                                                                          
                                                                                
You are doing nothing wrong for your radishes. High tempertures                 
and long days tend to stimulate vegetative growth and seed stalk                
development at the expense of root development. The best roots                  
are formed under moderate to cool temperatures. Therefore, avoid                
late spring and summer plantings of this cool season crop.                      
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
I am trying to produce an organic garden this year. However, the                
vegetables in my neighbor's garden look better. Is there any way                
I can perk up my crops?                                                         
                                                                                
Organic gardeners may notice that in early spring their crops                   
may not be as green or growing as well as their neighbors' who                  
are using synthetic granular or liquid fertilizers. This is                     
mainly due to the fact most organic sources of nitrogen are being               
released very slowly because the microorganisms that are respons-               
ible for this process are not very lively under cool soil                       
conditions. Increasing soil temperatures by using raised beds or                
black plastic will help; but since your crops are already                       
planted, this is not a solution applicable to this growing                      
season.                                                                         
                                                                                
What you may want to do now is add a few teaspoons of a soluable                
nitrogen source about one or two inches from the base of each                   
plant. If you do not want to give your plants a dose of synthetic               
fertilizer, here are a few fast-acting organic sources to use:                  
dried blood, fish emulsion, manure tea. It is easiest to use                    
liquid sources of nitrogen. If applying dry fertilizer, make                    
small slits or poke holes into the soil about 2-3 inches deep.                  
When making holes for fertilizer, try not to cut or disturb the                 
plant roots.                                                                    
                                                                                
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I read about single, double, multiflora and grandiflora petunias                
... what does it all mean?                                                      
                                                                                
Seed breeders use these terms to help lump similar varieties of                 
petunias into groups. Most petunias have "single" blossoms. This                
means they have only one layer of petals. "Double" blossoms have                
two or more layers of petals. Some fancy double varieties have                  
waved and frilled petal margins and resemble powder puffs.                      
                                                                                
Multiflora petunias have many medium sized blossoms. These                      
varieties withstand heat and humidity well. You can buy double or               
single multifloras.                                                             
                                                                                
Grandiflora petunias have large, rather ornate blossoms but not                 
as many as the multifloras. Varieties come in single or double                  
blossom forms and in compact or spreading varieties.                            
                                                                                
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What is a good plant to use as a border for a perennial bed in                  
the mountainous region of Virginia?                                             
                                                                                
One of the prettiest plants for edging borders is Lady's mantle,                
Alchemilla vulgaris. A perennial clump-forming herb. Lady's                     
mantle grows to 8 inches in height. It has soft gray-green leaves               
which appear early in spring and persist until late autumn.                     
In summer, it bears clusters of tiny greenish-yellow flowers on                 
10-inch forked stems.                                                           
                                                                                
A. vulgaris is easy to grow in a cool, moist climate. Plants seed               
very freely; fading flower heads should be removed promptly to                  
limit its spread. Alpine alchemilla (A. alpina), a smaller                      
species, has deeply serrated, silvery foliage, and forms dense                  
mats rather than clumps.                                                        
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
Is there a tall shrub with fragrant flowers and showy bark that                 
can grow in a shady spot in my landscape?                                       
                                                                                
Shrubs or trees with ornamental bark as well as flowers are                     
certainly not as common as the discriminating gardener would                    
like. One suggestion is Japanese tree clethra (Clethra barbinerv-               
is).                                                                            
                                                                                
Like its popular but much smaller American relative, summersweet                
or sweet pepperbush (C. alnifolia), this 15-20 foot shrub or                    
small tree produces an abundance of long-lasting 4-6 inch racemes               
of anise-scented white flowers in summer. These are unique being                
carried horizontally instead of upright. A more important feature               
which makes C. barbinervis attractive in all seasons is its                     
smooth, rich brown bark.                                                        
                                                                                
Japanese clethra withstands considerable shade and is pest-free                 
if not deprived of moisture. Ideal for the border or corner of a                
foundation planting, it deserves to be used more widely.                        
                                                                                
Cinnamon clethra (C. acuminata) is another American clethra. It                 
would be a useful tall shrub or small tree for landscapes in the                
higher elavations of Virginia if the soil is gravelly. It also                  
has fragrant, white flowers and ornamental bark. The bark is                    
shiny cinnamon brown. Since cinnamon clethra is a native to the                 
Southeast, it would work especially well in a naturalist landsca-               
pe.                                                                             
                                                                                
 -------------                                                                  
                                                                                
While in Washington, D.C. last fall, I noticed some interesting                 
street trees with fruit that looked like a string of green jelly                
beans. Could you tell me more about this odd tree?                              
                                                                                
Chinese scholar tree (Sophora japonica), also called Japanese                   
pagoda tree (although it is native to China and Korea) is a                     
versatile and handsome summer-flowering tree. This temperate                    
zone member of the pea family, hardy to -20 degrees F, rivals its               
many tropical relatives in floral beauty. In addition, it thrives               
in hot, dry, infertile situations making it an exceptionally good               
city tree Fine specimens can be seen on the steets of Washington.               
                                                                                
S. japonica grows to 40-60 feet with a round top. An unusual                    
feature is the shiny green color of young branches. Glossy,                     
locust-like, ferny foliage gives open shade that does not deter                 
lawn grass planted beneath it. Large (15"), creamy flower                       
clusters are showy from July into August Pale green seed pods                   
persist into winter.                                                            
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
I've been considering adding a lath house to my home grounds. Do                
you think a homeowner can actually get much use out of these                    
wooden structures?                                                              
                                                                                
The lath house is once again becoming a feature of fine gardens.                
But it is appearing in new forms, and is often multi-functional.                
Originally a simple shelter for summering indoor plants, it now                 
may be an elaborate "outdoor living" structure, a combination                   
conservatory and recreation center.                                             
                                                                                
On smaller properties, a lath house adjoining the patio or                      
attached to the home, garage, greenhouse, wall, or fence, is an                 
esthetically pleasing as well as space-saving solution. "Half-                  
and-half" designs, with part lath and part solid roof, or roofed                
with alternating wide and narrow lath, are another new approach.                
                                                                                
Then there is a Southern idea, now increasingly seen in more                    
Northward: the lath house that becomes a greenhouse in winter.                  
Usually this structure is attached to the home, so an open door                 
or window can supply at least enough heat for cool-growing                      
plants. Polyethylene sheeting, or sash covered on both sides with               
plastic, is tacked on in the fall.                                              
                                                                                
Some tips on design and construction of a lath house:                           
   1) standard 1-1/2 to 2 inch lath, spaced a lath width apart,                 
gives ample shading for many plants, with bamboo or reed shades                 
or vines to provide more shade if needed;                                       
   2) a concrete foundation is best for permanence in large                     
structures; plus a cement, stone, or gravel floor that can be                   
damped down for humidity-loving plants;                                         
   3) quite a few woods will serve for corner posts, studs and                  
beams when treated with wood preservative. Use 2 x 4's or larger                
for joists if you plan to hang plants. Roof beams can be steamed                
into curved shapes for a contemporary design.                                   
   4) a roof overhang will provide midday shade for a foundation                
planting.                                                                       
   5) a "sun wall" can be created using concrete blocks; ornamen-               
tal blocks such as those cast with a central open cloverleaf                    
design store heat from the day and are decorative as well.                      
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Herbaceous plants                                                               
                                                                                
* Remove foliage from spring bulbs after it turns yellow and                    
begins to dry. Set out bedding plants in space previously                       
occupied by foliage, using care not to damage bulbs.                            
                                                                                
* Plant annual flowers in tubs or large crocks for the porch or                 
terrace. Be sure there are holes in the bottom to provide good                  
drainage.                                                                       
                                                                                
* For hanging baskets in a cool shady location, select trailing                 
tuberous begonias, fuchsias, ferns, English ivy, impatiens or                   
fiberous rooted begonias in combination with trailing plants.                   
                                                                                
* Plant tropical water-lilies early in summer.                                  
                                                                                
* Yellow flowered perennials which abound this month include:St.                
John's Wort (Hypericum); Evening Primrose (Oenothera); yellow                   
loostrife (Lysimachia punctata).                                                
                                                                                
* Remove old flower heads from bedding plants to prolong the                    
period of bloom.                                                                
                                                                                
* Divide spring and early summer flowering perennials when they                 
have completed bloom. Instead of severing the clump in half, try                
jiggling the roots apart with two sharp spading forks. This takes               
more time, but considerably less root area is lost during                       
division.                                                                       
                                                                                
Woody ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* To get faster growth from your trees and shrubs, mulch is                     
better than grass or ground covers. In experiments across the                   
country, researchers have shown that a variety of trees and                     
shrubs including dogwood, forsythia, Burford holly, Japanese                    
black pine and cottonwood had growth reduced significantly by                   
both ground covers and grasses.                                                 
                                                                                
* Rambling roses should be pruned immediately after blooming.                   
                                                                                
* Shade trees may still be pruned if they have dead or damaged                  
branches which should be removed.                                               
                                                                                
* Additional pruning may be required this month on fast-growing,                
narrow, leaf evergreens such as junipers and yews as well as                    
plants such as privet to maintain a desirable shape during the                  
growing season.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Watch for and control blackspot and powdery mildew on rose                    
foliage.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Take care that newly planted materials receive a thorough                     
soaking each week.  Soak, do not sprinkle.  Mulch to conserve the               
moisture.  It is helpful to make a well for the water to collect                
in when mulching around trees.                                                  
                                                                                
* When it is necessary to transplant small to large woody plants                
in hot weather, cover them with a sheet after they are planted                  
and dampen the sheet two or three times a day with the hose, and                
they will suffer less setback.                                                  
                                                                                
* Plants may wilt from a lack of oxygen rather than a lack of                   
water. When the soil is compacted, the plant's tender feeder                    
roots and root hairs suffocate. The problem is compounded when                  
the well-meaning gardener assumes that the wilting is a sign of                 
water stress and immediately irrigates. Well-aerated soil,                      
enriched with organic matter, allows both air and water to                      
circulate freely about the root system for a vigorous plant.                    
                                                                                
* When you buy nursery stock that is container grown, check the                 
root ball and make sure its not bound too tightly.  As big mass                 
of circling roots will stay that way, even after it is in the                   
ground.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Pinch off faded magnolia flowers to stimulate new growth and                  
thicken the crown.                                                              
                                                                                
* Lacebugs feed on azaleas, pyrcantha and other woody plants                    
causing a gray, blanched or stippled appearance on the upper                    
surface of the leaves.                                                          
                                                                                
* Summer plantings of shrubs is practical if you use container                  
grown plants. Water frequently.                                                 
                                                                                
* Mid-to-late June is an excellent time to take softwood cuttings               
of shrubs to start new plants.  Some examples are spirea,                       
boxwood, and azalea.                                                            
                                                                                
* Spring flowering shrubs such as deutzia, weigela, vibrunum and                
forsythia, should be pruned as soon as they complete bloom.                     
                                                                                
Landscape                                                                       
                                                                                
* If you don't have much landscaping space, consider using some                 
of the many available dwarf varieties.  These are plants that                   
have slow growth and stay small, so there is little pruning                     
maintenance.  There are numerous evergreens and flowering trees                 
and shrubs to choose from.                                                      
                                                                                
* Rock gardens can be an interesting and challenging hobby for                  
the gardener.  A few perennials species that can be used success-               
fully are: ajuga, thrift, sedum, creeping phlox, and violas.                    
These can be planted in either spring or early fall, although                   
spring planting requires more attention to regular watering.                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
* Many of the weeds which occur in lawns are indicator plants                   
which signal poor growing conditions for turf grass.  Ground ivy,               
chickweed and violets often sprout up in places too shady for                   
most turf grasses. Sorrel, daisies and dock indicate a change to                
an acidic condition due to poor aeration and drainage, and lack                 
of humus.  Wild mustard, morning glories and quack grass warn of                
crusty soil and possible hard pan development.  The presence of                 
moss tells of soil compaction, poor drainage or fertility, or                   
excessive shade.  Before you begin weed control, consider                       
correcting the factors favorable to the weeds.                                  
                                                                                
* When going on vacation, arrange for someone to mow your lawn                  
and harvest your garden.                                                        
                                                                                
* When trimming grass with a power tool using rapidly spinning                  
monofilament line, be careful around young trees and shrubs.                    
Tender bark can easily be damaged, opening the tree to insect and               
disease problems.                                                               
                                                                                
* Lawn clippings return valuable nutrients especially nitrogen to               
turf grass.  Rake up grass clippings only when the grass has                    
grown unusually tall between mowings.                                           
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* After your vegetable garden is well established, it is best to                
water it thoroughly once a week rather than a light watering                    
everyday.  That way, a deeper root system is encouraged which                   
will later help the plants tolerate dry weather.  Generally, an                 
application of one inch of water to the surface will wet soil to                
six or eight inches deep.                                                       
                                                                                
* According to tests conducted by VA Tech Department of Human                   
Nutrition and Foods, microwave-blanched vegetables have less                    
flavor and poorer color and texture than vegetables blanched with               
hot water or steam.                                                             
                                                                                
* Set young melons and cantaloupes on top of tin cans--they'll                  
ripen faster and sweeter.                                                       
                                                                                
* Some Virginia soils are magnesium deficient--especially those                 
on which high calcium lime rather than lime containing magnesium                
(dolomite) are used. "Green" your peppers by giving them a                      
magnesium boost with epsom salts. This will also aid in fruit                   
production. Dilute one tablespoon of epsom salts in about a quart               
of water. Spray the solution on leaves and blossoms using a clean               
household spray bottle.                                                         
                                                                                
* The time of day can make a difference in the taste and texture                
of your vegetables. For sweetness, pick peas and corn late in the               
day. That's when they contain the most sugar, especially if the                 
day was cool and sunny. Other vegetables, such as lettuce and                   
cucumbers, are crisper and tastier if you harvest them early in                 
the morning before the day's heat has a chance to wilt and                      
shrivel them.                                                                   
                                                                                
* A new edible green called 'Tyfon' has been developed by                       
crossing turnips with Chinese cabbage.  Tyfon is frost tolerant,                
quick growing and capable of generating a second cutting in 3-4                 
weeks.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Broken branches and suckers of tomato plants will often root if               
stuck into loose, moist soil.                                                   
                                                                                
* As soon as the last cutting of asparagus is made, remove all                  
the weeds from the bed and fertilize with a 10-10-10 formula at                 
the rate of 3 pounds per 50 foot row.                                           
                                                                                
* Stop cutting asparagus in mid or late June when the spears                    
become thin. Allow the tops to grow during the summer to store                  
food in the roots for the crop next spring.                                     
                                                                                
* Mulch the vegetable garden when your seedlings are about six                  
inches tall. This will conserve moisture and discourage weeds.                  
                                                                                
* Many garden plants will appreciate a sidedressing of 5-10-10 at               
the rate of 1 lbs per 100 ft of row applied 4 to 6 weeks after                  
plants are established. Avoid sidedressing tomatoes, eggplants                  
and peppers until they have set their first fruit.                              
                                                                                
* For very efficient, steady feeding of vegetables sink a large                 
can or bucket with many holes in its sides into the soil and fill               
it about 2/3 full of rotted manure or compost; rain or occasional               
watering will keep a rich supply of nutrients seeping out to feed               
plants in a circle several feet wide.                                           
                                                                                
* Corn earworm may be controlled by use of mineral oil. A few                   
drops on the silk at the time of first pink blush, followed by                  
daily applications for heavy infestations will stop them. An                    
added bonus is the ease with which the silks may be removed when                
shucking the ears. However, overuse of mineral oil will adversely               
affect pollination--the silk end of the ear will not completely                 
fill out.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Keep a close eye on the quality of your spring crops. Hot                     
weather causes lettuce to bolt and become bitter. Plant a warm                  
season crop as soon as the spring vegetables are removed.                       
                                                                                
* If you are using transplants for late-season planting of                      
tomatoes, it is possible that the plants have reached a physio-                 
logical stage of growth in which some flowers may be forming or                 
even open at transplanting time. This can occur both in homegrown               
and purchased transplants. One problem with setting plants with                 
flowers or even small fruit is that the plants will tend to                     
mature one or more small fruit at the expense of desired vegeta-                
tive growth. Thus, the plants remain fairly small and their yield               
is low. If time and labor are available, removal of                             
flowers and fruit should be done soon after transplanting.                      
                                                                                
* For bigger and better Brussels sprouts, pinch out the top of                  
the plant when the sprouts at the bottom are full grown. The                    
smaller, upper sprouts are thus encouraged to grow much larger                  
than they otherwise would.                                                      
                                                                                
* Continue plantings of warm season crops such as beans, squash                 
and tomatoes. Toward the end of the month, start seeds of Chinese               
cabbage and cauliflower for fall harvest.                                       
                                                                                
* Only the uppermost ear or two develops to maturity in sweet                   
corn.  Any undeveloped lower ears can be picked just after the                  
silk appears and used in stir-fry vegetables, salads, or pickled.               
                                                                                
Fruit                                                                           
                                                                                
* Strawberries picked early in the day keep best.  Do not wash or               
stem berries until ready to use.  Store berries in covered                      
containers in the refrigerator.                                                 
                                                                                
Indoor plants                                                                   
                                                                                
* If in clay pots, plunge house plant pots to the rim in a                      
partially shaded flower bed or border for the summer. If in                     
glazed or plastic containers, remove the pot.                                   
                                                                                
* To prevent overwatering of plants in containers without drain                 
holes, stick two or three plastic straws vertically down into the               
layer of gravel or rocks at the bottom of the pot before                        
planting. Then cut them off just above the soil surface after                   
planting. This will allow evaporation of excess moisture in the                 
drainage layer.                                                                 
                                                                                
* If you plant your Easter lily outdoors, it may flower again in                
late August.                                                                    
                                                                                
* To avoid soaking the soil when giving potted plants a shower                  
bath, slit an aluminum foil pie plate from the rim to the center,               
turn under the cut edges, and slip it around the plant stem so it               
covers the soil and makes the water run off.                                    
                                                                                
* House plants may be kept in good condition for several weeks                  
while one is on vacation by using clear plastic bags as miniature               
greenhouses. Simply soak the pot thoroughly, allow to drain, then               
place the potted plant into a plastic bag. Tie the opening                      
tightly. By inserting two or more sticks in the soil before the                 
bag is put on, one may support the plastic-like tent and prevent                
it from resting on the plants. Plants, such as African violets,                 
that are apt to develop mildew should have a few air holes for                  
air circulation.                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Tools and equipment (includes container)                                        
                                                                                
* Birds will generally not be scared away by scarecrows. Instead                
try tying pieces of glass, colored cloth, or tin to loose strings               
so the wind can blow them and slash them together.  Random motion               
is the key to alarming the birds away from the garden.                          
                                                                                
* Do not allow children to ride or drive riding lawn mowers. They               
are more dangerous than they appear. Always disengage the mower                 
blades and set the brake before getting off for any reason.                     
                                                                                
* A method of composting for limited space is to put all of the                 
compost materials (leaves, soil, weeds, kitchen garbage, and                    
manure) in a large polyethylene bag, moisten thoroughly, tie the                
top tightly and leave it out in the sun.  Kick the bag around                   
occasionally and let in fresh air every two weeks.  Before long                 
you will have a convenient bag of well-rotted compost.                          
                                                                                
* Before pouring gasoline into the fuel tank of your lawn mower,                
garden tillers or other equipment, be sure to turn off engine and               
allow to cool five minutes.                                                     
                                                                                
* A sundial should be set on June 15th.  Place it so that the                   
shadow falls on 12:00 o'clock at exactly noon on this date.                     
                                                                                
* A plastic mesh bag filled with marbles holds flower arrange-                  
ments beautifully--set it in the container and cover it with                    
water and the marbles will grip flower stems firmly without                     
injuring them.                                                                  
                                                                                
* When selecting a window box, it is best to use a wooden box.                  
Metal ones are more likely to overheat if sitting in the hot                    
summer sun.  Also the wooden boxes allow for drainage, whereas                  
the metal ones often do not. The color of the box also should be                
considered:  dark ones get warmer than light-colored boxes.                     
                                                                                
* Large mesh wire has many uses in the garden such as a tomato                  
cage, a compost bin, to hold down black plastic, to hold mulches                
in place, or to use as a half-cylinder with plastic over it as a                
small greenhouse.                                                               
                                                                                
* Japanese beetle traps are effective in neighborhoods where most               
residents use them.  An isolated trap or two can actually draw                  
the insects to your yard.  Traps should be placed at least 25                   
feet from fruit trees and roses to lure the pests away from                     
treasured plants.                                                               
                                                                                
* Heavy rains encourage slug problems.                                          
                                                                                
* A mailbox mounted on a post in the garden can hold ties,                      
labels, small tools and other necessities that we so often forget               
to bring with us when we go out to the garden.                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
* Remove crusted mineral salts from clay pots by soaking pots in                
water for a few days.  Start with hot water and renew the hot                   
bath several times. Scrub off heavy salt buildup with steel wool                
and dish detergent. Sterilize pots before reuse by soaking them                 
for ten minutes in a solution of 9 parts water to 1 part bleach.                
To reduce salt buildup on clay pots, wipe them weekly with a                    
cloth soaked in white vinegar.                                                  
                                                                                
* June is a great time to clean out the greenhouse.  Discard dead               
or diseased plants and old potting soil.  Good sanitation is                    
necessary to control greenhouse pests.                                          
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* Spread organic mulch in the garden once the soil has warmed and               
seedlings are about six inches tall.                                            
                                                                                
* For hot summer months, mulch can be especially beneficial for                 
conserving water.  For the vegetable garden, leaves are a good                  
mulch material.  For ornamentals, pine needles or bark do the                   
best job.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Weed cultivation is important for a number of reasons.  It                    
conserves moisture and nutrients in the soil, while helping to                  
prevent the spread of disease and insects.                                      
                                                                                
* To avoid back strain and assorted muscle pains, try the                       
following suggestions while doing lawn work. When weeding, try to               
kneel keeping your chin close to your chest, rather than bending                
on all fours with your back parallel to the ground. When mowing                 
or hoeing make sure the handle is long enough so you can work                   
without doubling over. Lift heavy objects by bending at the                     
knees, not the back, and always move on to another job before                   
your muscles begin to protest at the one you are doing.                         
                                                                                
* The insect problem on your terrace after dusk may be reduced by               
using red or yellow light bulbs. Insects don't see these colors                 
as well as others, so they're not as attracted to the light                     
emitted.                                                                        
                                                                                
* The use of milky spore (Bacillus popilliae) is only effective                 
if your neighbors also apply the soil treatment.  Otherwise                     
Japanese beetle larvae hatching in other yards will reinfest your               
property.                                                                       
                                                                                
* To protect the bees which pollinate many of our crop plants,                  
spray in the evening after bees have returned to their hives.                   
                                                                                
* Protect yourself, your family, and your pets from contact with                
pesticides.  Wear protective clothing and spray only on calm                    
days.  Wash your hands and clothing thoroughly after using garden               
chemicals.                                                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
* Identify garden pests before you attempt to control them.  If                 
you decide to use a chemical control, read the label carefully to               
be sure the chemical is recommended for use on that plant.  Make                
sure you apply the proper amount at the proper time.  Consult                   
with your local extension agent if you have questions about                     
pesticides.                                                                     
                                                                                
Herbs                                                                           
                                                                                
* The best time to harvest most herbs is just before flowering,                 
when their leaves contain the maximum essential oils.  Cut herbs                
early on a sunny day.                                                           
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
Press Releases June 1987                                                        
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Extension                   
Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Home Horti-                 
culture, working with Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab. The               
Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed for agent                  
use in preparing radio and newspaper features and other                         
educational programs.                                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
Portulaca                                            53 lines                   
Prolong the Life of Cut Flowers                      67 lines                   
Viburnums for Year Round Interest                    88 lines                   
Shade Plants                                         45 lines                   
Siberian Iris                                        41 lines                   
Spider Mites                                         62 lines                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
Portulaca                                                                      
                                                                                
Moss Rose or Portulaca grandiflora, is a dependable garden annual               
that has endeared itself to generations of gardeners. It provides               
nonstop color in the summer garden but demands very little care.                
It is heat and drought resistant and is almost pest and disease                 
free.                                                                           
                                                                                
Overall the plant appears as a small mound 4 to 6 inches high                   
with a spread of up to 2 feet. The fleshy leaves are a pale olive               
green and are arranged alternately on the stem. At first glance                 
the leaves seem to be needle-shaped but closer examination                      
reveals a spoon-shape to the leaves. Because they are thick and                 
fleshy, the leaves have the ability to store water and so are                   
able to withstand drought.                                                      
                                                                                
Depending on the variety, the flowers are either singles, semi-                 
doubles or doubles. The singles look like delicate cups made up                 
of 5 petals. The semi-doubles and the doubles have the appearance               
of miniature roses (hence the name "Moss Rose"). The flower                     
colors range from soft shades of cream, lavender and white to                   
vivid yellow, orange, red, and pink. Although seed packets                      
usually contain mixed colors, some individual shades have been                  
isolated and are now available. The flowers traditionally close                 
on cloudy days and in the evenings. Recently hybridizers have                   
developed new varieties which remain open all day long, among                   
these is 'Afternoon Delight' and 'Cloudbeater.'                                 
                                                                                
Because the seeds are very small, they are difficult to handle                  
individually, but by mixing them with an equal part of dry sand,                
portulaca seeds are easy to sow. Since mature plants shouldn't be               
moved it is best to sow the seeds where you want the flowers. Sow               
in the early spring after all danger of frost has passed.                       
Broadcast the seeds over the area, press seeds into the soil,                   
water lightly, and allow 10-15 days for germination. Thin the                   
seedlings as overcrowding will severly stunt the plants.                        
                                                                                
The most important factors in selecting a garden location for                   
portulaca are sun and soil drainage. Be sure to choose an area                  
that receives full sun. Because this annual prefers drought, the                
soil of this sunny spot should have good drainage. Nothing else                 
really matters as portulaca needs no fertilization. There are                   
virtually no problems with pests and once established, portulaca                
tends to take care of itself during the course of the summer.                   
                                                                                
Portulaca is ideal for container gardening because it is small in               
size and has a shallow root system. Its preference for drought                  
conditions and high temperatures will help it withstand long                    
periods of neglect but in containers it still requires watering                 
every few days. For apartment dwellers, portulaca can provide                   
worry-free gardening on sunny balconies. Even if the gardener is                
away on weekends, portulaca will bide its time and continue to                  
produce vivid flowers.Prolong the Life of Cut Flowers                          
                                                                                
You can prolong the life of cut flowers by giving them special                  
attention when they are picked. A little extra care at that time                
will cause them to last longer in arrangements, or be more                      
attractive throughout a flower show.                                            
                                                                                
Cut flowers early in the morning or late in the evening when they               
are holding their maximum amount of water. If picked during                     
midday when stressed and wilting from lack of water, the flowers                
may not fully recover and need to be discarded. They should be                  
cut several hours before they are to be used to allow time for                  
conditioning.                                                                   
                                                                                
Regardless of what you may have read or heard, there seems to be                
no real preference for morning or evening as the best time for                  
cutting. Flowers and foliage may be somewhat more turgid in the                 
morning, especially if the soil in the garden is somewhat dry.                  
They will have a slightly higher supply of reserve foods in late                
evening, but may be less crisp because of water loss during sunny               
hot weather.                                                                    
                                                                                
Most flowers should be cut before they open fully. They will                    
retain their attractive form longer than if cut when mature.                    
Flowers which open rapidly like roses and poppies should be cut                 
when the buds show color.                                                       
                                                                                
Use a sharp knife or pruning shears when cutting flowers. Do not                
use household shears which will mash the stem and slow the                      
absorbtion of water by the flower. Make a clean slanting cut. A                 
square cut may allow the stem to rest flat on the bottom of the                 
container and reduce water uptake.                                              
                                                                                
Strip off any lower leaves which will not be needed in the flower               
arrangement. Immerse the stems in warm water at about 110                       
degrees. Flowers with shiny or leathery foliage, such as the                    
peony and rose, may be immersed up to the flower. Do not immerse                
leaves which have a soft or fuzzy surface. Flowers with soft                    
pulpy stems like tulips should be immersed in only two or three                 
inches of warm water as the stems soften quickly.                               
                                                                                
Flowers like poppy and poinsettia will bleed a milky sap when                   
cut. This may be prevented by plunging the stem into ice water as               
soon as it is cut, or putting the base of the stem in boiling                   
water for 30 seconds, or by searing the cut end with a flame.                   
Then place the stems in warm water for hardening as suggested                   
above.                                                                          
                                                                                
To ensure long life for your flower arrangement or display,                     
harden the flowers by covering the blooms with wax paper or loose               
plastic bags to reduce transpiration. Store the arrangement in a                
cool dark place out of drafts for 2 or 3 hours then unwrap and                  
display. Avoid conditions which will increase transpiration or                  
wilting. Do not place flowers in direct sun or drafts, or near                  
hot radiators or electric lights.                                               
                                                                                
The use of flower preservatives in the water will extend the life               
of cut flowers. These materials contain sugars to provide                       
nutrients, acids to prevent bacterial growth, and a fungicide to                
reduce the possibility of disease. The addition of aspirin or                   
alum to the water will not help, and the use of salt may be                     
harmful.                                                                        
                                                                                
Mashing woody stems will not increase water intake but may make                 
it easier to insert such stems on a pinpoint. Square cut stems of               
herbaceous materials may be easier to hold on a pinpoint than                   
those with a long slanting cut.                                                 
Viburnums for Year Round Interest                                              
                                                                                
The next time additions are in order for the home landscape                     
consider the benefits provided by viburnums. These plants are                   
dependable and have interesting ornamental value for all seasons                
of the year. The special characteristics of many viburnums                      
include fragrant white flowers in the spring, glossy green leaves               
during the summer, attractive autumn foliage and bright-colored                 
fruits in late summer and fall.                                                 
                                                                                
Viburnums are sturdy shrubs, which are easy to grow and most                    
varieties are hardy in all parts of Virginia. Many viburnums are                
virtually pest free, though some of the snowball viburnums are                  
occasionally attacked by aphids.                                                
                                                                                
Viburnums can be used as specimen shrubs, or in border plantings.               
Be sure to select an appropriate size for the location. Because                 
of the many varieties of viburnums available ranging from very                  
large to small, choose only those that fit space limitations. A                 
large viburnum shrub, constantly pruned to fit a small space will               
never provide the expected effect. If properly located, the shrub               
should need only moderate pruning to retain a desirable form.                   
Viburnums can also be used to attract wildlife such as birds and                
small mammals because of the abundance of fruit produced on each                
bush.                                                                           
                                                                                
Provide a well drained, fertile soil for viburnums. A mulch of                  
wood chips or other organic material extending several feet from                
the base will conserve soil moisture and help suppress weed                     
growth. On good soils, viburnums will make sufficient growth                    
without fertilizer. If the growth is somewhat weak, or the                      
foliage is light green, apply one cupful of 5-10-5 fertilizer                   
around each medium size shrub. Use half this amount on small                    
shrubs, and twice as much on large shrubs. Remember, use                        
fertilizer only on weak growing shrubs planted on infertile                     
soils. Consider some of the following species for planting in the               
home landscape.                                                                 
                                                                                
The Doublefile viburnum (V. plicatum tomentosum) is truly the                   
most spectacular of the viburnum family. In mid May, large white                
non-fragrant flowers are produced in flat clusters, along                       
horizontal branches somewhat like a dogwood. It grows eight feet                
tall with a slightly larger spread. In the fall the foliage                     
changes to a bright red and is accompanied by attractive red                    
fruit which gradually turn black. The dwarf doublefile cultivars,               
'Mariesii' and 'Shasta,' which grow to about six feet, can give                 
an effect equal to the larger species.                                          
                                                                                
The Korean Spice viburnum (V. carlesii) is a favorite because of                
its fragrant spring flowers. The white flowers emerge in late                   
April to early May followed by red to black fruit from August to                
September. This dense shrub is usually rounded with stiff,                      
upright spreading branches. It normally reaches a height of four                
to five feet with an equal to greater spread.                                   
The Wright virbunum (V. wrightii) is a medium size plant about                  
eight feet tall. It has attractive flowers in the spring and an                 
abundant crop of bright red berries from August until October.                  
During October and November, the foliage turns crimson.                         
                                                                                
The Witherod viburnum (V. cassinoides) reaches a height of six                  
feet. This shrub produces an abundance of blooms in late June to                
early July followed by fruits which gradually change color from                 
green to pink, then red to blue before becoming black in                        
September. This characteristic makes witherod viburnum a good                   
selection for high visibility gardens.                                          
                                                                                
The Tea viburnum (V. setigerum) is unusual because of its bright                
orange-colored fruits. It grows to a height of ten to twelve feet               
and has attractive white flowers in flat clusters in late May.                  
Though the fruit is outstanding, the plant does tend to become                  
leggy, and is best combined with other plants in the shrub border               
to hide bare bottom branches.                                                   
                                                                                
A large tree-like viburnum to use as a specimen or in a mass                    
planting is the Black haw (V. prunifolium). It grows fifteen feet               
tall and has attractive white flower clusters in mid May. In the                
fall shiny red leaves contrast with blue-black fruit.                           
                                                                                
Low growing forms of viburnum are now available. The compact                    
European Cranberry bush (V. opulus 'Compactum') grows only five                 
feet tall, with good flower and fruit production even when young.               
A dwarf cultivar, (V. opulus 'Nanum'), seldom exceeds two feet                  
and does not produce flowers or fruit. These low species are                    
useful as hedge plants.                                                         
                                                                                
There are many more varieties of viburnum. Visit a nursery or                   
arboretum to find out about the viburnums that will perform well                
in your area.                                                                   
                                                                                
Shade Plants                                                                   
                                                                                
On the coldest days of winter our memories of gardening center on               
the sunniest spots. But as summer approaches we become interested               
in a shady garden for July and August. Fortunately, there are a                 
number of plants that will not merely tolerate, but actually                    
welcome, the cool dampness of a shady location.                                 
                                                                                
Coleus does well in a semi-shady location. The foliage of these                 
popular plants can brighten the darker corners of your landscape                
with color. Easy-to-grow coleus can be started from cuttings or                 
seed, so they make an excellent plant to share with friends.                    
                                                                                
Another colorful foliage plant for shady locations is the                       
caladium. Caladiums have very few pests and grow well in rich                   
soil in semi-shade.  Grown from bulbs, these plants are expensive               
but can add a variety of color to an otherwise uninteresting                    
area. The variegated foliage may be crimson, scarlet, rose,                     
yellow, white, or green. Wide variety makes them worth the                      
investment for the right location.                                              
                                                                                
The best of the flowering annual shade lovers are the fibrous                   
rooted begonias and impatiens. The selection of both of these                   
plants has increased in recent years. Many of the most successful               
new hybrids have uniform growth habits such as flower size and                  
plant height but have been bred in a wide range of colors so that               
you can select or blend colors to suit a particular theme.                      
                                                                                
Additional plants for areas of partial shade are:                               
                                                                                
Perennials: Tuberous Begonias (if bulbs are dug each year),                     
Lobelia cardinalis, Primula (evening primrose)                                  
                                                                                
Biennials: Myosotis (forget-me-nots), Digitalis (foxglove),                     
Bellis (English daisy), Dianthus (sweet william)                                
                                                                                
Annuals: Malcomia (Virginian stock), Eschscholzia (California                   
poppy), Lobularia (sweet alyssum), Nicotiana ( flowering                        
tobacco), Viola (pansy), Vinca (periwinkle), Torenia, Balsam,                   
Godetia, Mimulus (monkey flower), Nemophila, Wax Begonia                        
                                                                                
Many of these shade plants have the added benefit of doing as                   
well in containers as in the ground; so if you don't have a place               
for a shade garden, try a few plants in pots on the patio or even               
in a window box on the northeast side of the house.                             
                                                                                
Siberian Iris                                                                  
                                                                                
Siberian or Beardless iris are among the easiest iris to grow.                  
They have graceful foliage and dainty flowers, and bloom for                    
about three to five weeks after the tall bearded irises in early                
to mid-summer. The blooms range in size from miniature to five                  
inches in diameter on standard varieties. The leaves have a                     
grass-like appearance and stay attractive all summer. Height                    
varies from 20 to 48 inches with the average in the 30 to 36 inch               
range. The seed pods are also attractive and useful in dried                    
flower arrangements.                                                            
                                                                                
The color range of Siberian irises includes many shades of white,               
blue, violet, rose, yellow and bicolors. Among the recommended                  
varieties of Siberian iris are Snow Crest, Blue Brilliant,                      
Caesar's Brother, and Eric the Red.                                             
                                                                                
The Siberian iris has excellent value as a landscape plant.                     
Virtually pest and disease free, they can be important as                       
specimen plants as well as in massed plantings. Very tolerant of                
cold temperatures, Siberian irises can be grown in all parts of                 
Virginia. These plants thrive in well-moistened areas and achieve               
their full height and good stem characteristics when grown in                   
high moisture areas like those found near ponds. They prefer                    
fertile soil that is adequately moist yet well drained.                         
Fertilization should take place in early spring and after                       
flowering. These iris have also been found to tolerate lime and                 
heavy clay soils.                                                               
                                                                                
Siberian iris flowers are ideal for arranging because they are so               
long lasting. Thriving in sun or shade, the plants are easily                   
propagated by root division, either in early spring or in early                 
fall. When dividing large clumps, separate them into groups of                  
five or more leafing rhizomes or fans. Recent experience shows                  
that the plants can be successfully transplanted in the spring                  
and also after blooming season if adequate moisture is given                    
until they are established. Before planting the divisions, make                 
sure that the holes in which you will be putting them are large                 
enough to spread out the fibrous roots for proper establishment.                
Adequate moisture is the key to growing Siberian irises well,                   
whether in the field, garden or container.                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Spider Mites                                                                   
                                                                                
Spider mites are not insects; they are closely related to                       
spiders, harvestmen (daddy longlegs), and ticks. Unlike insects                 
which have six legs and three body parts, spider mites have eight               
legs and a one-piece body. They also lack wings, antennae, and                  
compound eyes. Individual spider mites are almost microscopic,                  
yet when they occur in large numbers, they can cause serious                    
damage. Dozens of species attack shade trees, shrubs, and                       
herbaceous plants.                                                              
                                                                                
The two-spotted mite overwinters as an adult in the soil; the                   
honeylocust mite overwinters as an adult in the bark crevices on                
the trunk and branches. Most other common species on trees and                  
shrubs overwinter as tiny round eggs on leaves or bark. These                   
eggs hatch in March or April. First-stage larvae have only six                  
legs, but after molting, they become eight-legged nymphs. Both                  
larvae and nymphs resemble the adults. Development time from egg                
to adult varies from 5 to 21 days depending on the species of                   
mite and the weather. Many generations occur each year. Under                   
optimal conditions, populations can build up very rapidly.                      
                                                                                
Spider mites on conifers and broadleaved evergreens are cool                    
weather pests. They feed heavily and reproduce quickly in spring                
and fall. Activity is low during the hot part of summer, although               
damage is often at a maximum and becomes easier to see when other               
plants are green and growing normally. Spider mites on                          
honeylocust, linden, elm, willow, and oak are destructive in the                
summer. The two-spotted mite thrives whenever conditions are                    
favorable for plant growth.                                                     
                                                                                
Spider mites lack chewing or piercing sucking mouthparts. Instead               
they have a pair of needle-like structures called stylets which                 
are used to rupture leaf cells. A feeding spider mite pushes its                
mouth into the torn tissue and draws up cell sap. Small patches                 
of cells are killed, resulting in a stippling or fine flecking on               
the upper surface of leaves. On heavily infested plants, the                    
foliage appears bronzed, bleached, yellow, or grey. Untreated,                  
such plants lose vigor, become progressively weaker, and may                    
eventually die.                                                                 
                                                                                
Spider mite damage to foliage is similar on all host plants: fine               
stippling which progresses to an overall bronzing of the leaves.                
With a hand lens, egg shells and cast skins are usually visible                 
on the underside of damaged leaves. Mites can be observed by                    
shaking infested leaves over a white piece of paper. The mites                  
are about the size of the period at the end of this sentence.                   
                                                                                
Spruce Mites are found only on conifers, hemlock, arborvitae,                   
spruce, fir, juniper, and occasionally pine. A fine webbing which               
collects dust and dirt is produced on the foliage where they                    
feed. Infested plants lose their color and the foliage becomes                  
thin, because severly damaged needles drop prematurely.                         
                                                                                
Most insecticides are not effective on mites and some result in                 
increased mite damage by killing their natural enemies. Use a                   
recommended miticide as listed in Virginia Tech's Pest Control                  
Recommendations, call your local county or city Extension Agent.                
Always read the label before applying any pesticide.                            
                                                                                
(Information provided by Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab,                
adapted from Insect Identification Laboratory Factsheet Number 5,               
by Daniel J. Hilburn, Department of Entomology, Virginia Tech.)                 
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
June 1987  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
This material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Horticulture Extension               
Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist Home                  
Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has been                       
developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                        
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
Fertilizing Asparagus                     7 lines                               
Hypericum                                23 lines                               
Cabbage Head Splitting                   12 lines                               
Onion Seed Stalks                        17 lines                               
Bush Cherries                            22 lines                               
Poor Set on Peppers                      13 lines                               
Mixed Annual Containers                  35 lines                               
Scabiosa                                 21 lines                               
Liriope Hardiness                         8 lines                               
Yellowwood                               13 lines                               
Climbing Annual Vines                    44 lines                               
Kousa Dogwood                            24 lines                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Should I fertilize my asparagus?                                                
                                                                                
Work compost or other organic material into the soil and apply a                
complete fertilizer mixture such as 5-10-20 (1 pound per 10 feet                
of row) before planting asparagus. At the end of the cutting                    
season (around July 15) each year, apply an equal amount of a                   
complete fertilizer mixture.                                                    
                                                                                
 --------                                                                       
                                                                                
I need a shrub or ground cover for summer color that can                        
withstand poor soil and requires little maintenance. What can you               
recommend?                                                                      
                                                                                
For summer color many of us turn to the old standbys such as                    
crape myrtle or Rose of Sharon to provide interest in the shrub                 
border. You can add to the summer blooming period by using                      
hypericum in your landscape. To effectively describe this plant                 
the best word to use is "carefree."                                             
                                                                                
Hypericum is a low growing, semi-evergreen plant which ranges                   
from 1 to 4 feet in height and spread, depending on the variety.                
It blooms prolifically from June through October producing bright               
yellow blooms at the end of each new shoot. This shrub is at its                
best in full sun and well drained soil, but tends to be tolerant                
of a variety of conditions. Noted for its tolerance of city                     
conditions, it also withstands dry, rocky soils, variable pH, and               
partial shade.                                                                  
Hypericum has no major disease or insect problems and rarely                    
requires pruning. It is best used in front of tall shrubs but can               
also be effective in groupings or in mass. It can be bought in                  
containers and transplanted in spring or summer, if watered well                
for root establishment.                                                         
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
Why do cabbage heads split?                                                     
                                                                                
Cabbage heads split because of pressure from too much water                     
entering the head through the root system after the heads become                
solid. As the heads near full size and become moderately firm,                  
reducing the inflow of water will be critical, particularly if                  
the are frequent rains. There are several ways that this can be                 
accomplished. One idea is to cut the roots on one side with a                   
shovel thereby reducing the number of roots and water intake by                 
one half. A second option is to twist the head of the cabbage 90                
degrees also removing roots and lowering water uptake. Another                  
methos is simply to pull up on each plant enough to break a few                 
of the roots.                                                                   
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
Why do some onion plants form seed stalks and others not?                       
                                                                                
Onions are biennials so they grow vegetative by the first year                  
and produce seed the second year. Onion plants grown from seeds                 
sown in the late winter or early spring rarely form seed stalks                 
unless they are severly chilled by heavy frosts or freezing                     
temperatures.                                                                   
                                                                                
Onion plants grown from sets generally form seed stalks only when               
individual sets are larger than 3/4 inch in diameter when                       
planted. The reason for this is that onion sets are small onion                 
bulbs that have been harvested and cured before they reach full                 
size. Sets are produced by sowing seeds of the desired cultivar                 
very thickly in early summer - about 12 to 15 seeds per inch of                 
row, in rows of 12 to 15 inches apart. These are allowed to                     
mature and are stored for sales and planting the next spring.                   
Since the bulbs are in the second season of growth the larger                   
ones respond as mature biennials and flower.                                    
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
Is the bush cherry that I see advertised in catalogs a true                     
cherry? Will It give me fruit like a Bing cherry?                               
                                                                                
Although not a true cherry, the ornamental bush cherry (Prunus                  
tomentosa) is a useful plant which can provide fruit as well as                 
color in your garden. Bush cherries can be a problem solver for                 
the homeowner who wishes to have flowers and fruit but has little               
space. These plants occupy less space than many fruit trees while               
producing a large amount of fruit.                                              
                                                                                
Although the fruit do not compare to true cherries, the juicy,                  
red fruits are borne thickly along the branches requiring no                    
ladder, just a long arm since. Reaching a height of 4-6 feet,                   
these plants can be pruned into a hedge to form a fruiting screen               
for food and privacy. The tart and tangy cherries are best used                 
in canning and baking. These shrubs also serve to attract birds                 
to the yard if a plant to feed wildlife is desired.                             
                                                                                
As a landscape specimen, bush cherries provide a pleasing show of               
fragrant, snow white blossoms in early spring. Planted in full                  
sun and well drained soil. Once these plants become established                 
they should begin to produce fruit in as little as three years                  
and continue for 15-20 years.                                                   
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
What causes poor fruit set in sweet peppers?                                    
                                                                                
Pepper plants, especially cultivars of the large fruited,                       
California Wonder type, such as 'Lady Bell' and 'Jupiter'                       
occasionally fail to set early fruits. One reason for poor                      
fruiting is that the plants may have been too old and root bound                
before planting. Another possibility is the plants became too                   
cold during the holding period before planting. The pepper plants               
may also have become too dry sometime before planting, or were                  
severly chilled following planting. Too much nitrogen in                        
proportion to phosphorus and potassium in the soil also can cause               
excessive vegetative growth and result in poor fruit set. Once                  
the peppers are allowed to adjust to a favorable environment they               
should perform well.                                                            
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
Could you give some tips on making a mixed container of annuals?                
I love the effect they make.                                                    
                                                                                
Many gardeners are very successful with mixed containers, using                 
several varieties of flowers and foliages in pleasing                           
combinations of color and texture. Almost any type of plant can                 
be combined with a few guidelines.                                              
                                                                                
Design the container plantings for shade or for sun, combining                  
only those flowers which do well together. Semperflorens bronze-                
leaved begonia or any of the green-leaved begonias or medium-                   
flowered tuberous begonias, impatiens, salvia and browallia all                 
work well in containers for shade. For a sunny location, the                    
choice is almost unlimited.                                                     
                                                                                
Include plants for height (e.g. Shasta daisies or geraniums),                   
plants for spread (e.g. petunias,) and plants to grow down over                 
the edges of the containers. Trailing foliage plants are useful                 
here as well as those that flower such as hanging fuchsias and                  
verbena.                                                                        
                                                                                
Plant too much rather than too little. Err on the side of extra                 
plants for a lush, full effect. But to compensate for extra                     
plants fertilize and water properly. Apply a slow release                       
fertilizer for summer-long feeding. Water abundantly throughout                 
the summer.                                                                     
                                                                                
Here are a couple of ideas for container planting combinations                  
that work well.                                                                 
                                                                                
Pink and white full sun container: pink Begonia, white Nicotiana,               
rose-pink Geranium, white Petunias, white Snapdragon, white                     
Dimorphoteca, pink Vinca.                                                       
                                                                                
Blue and pink shade container: pink Impatiens, pink Begonia,                    
violet Impatiens, Browallia, Dusty Miller, and Alyssum.                         
                                                                                
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What is a Mourning Bride or a Pincushion Flower?                                
                                                                                
Both are common names for an admirable all purpose annual flower,               
Scabiosa atropurpureus. However, pincushion is the more apt name,               
as it describes blossom size and appearance. Interpreted                        
literally, the botanical name means a dark purple plant that                    
cures the itch, a totally incorrect description.                                
                                                                                
Pincushion grows rapidly from large, sure-sprouting seeds. Plants               
are rather open and floppy because of the long stems. Try growing               
2 or 3 plants inside a 2 ft. high cylinder of chicken wire, 8 to                
9 inches in diameter. After a while the wire will be virtually                  
invisible.                                                                      
                                                                                
Seeds can be sown early out-of-doors; young plants are frost                    
hardy. Pincushion flowers will withstand quite a bit of heat if                 
spent blossoms are removed and the plants are watered frequently.               
                                                                                
Seed breeders have selected a wide range of pastel pink, rose,                  
lavender and orchid colors while retaining the deep wine and                    
purple shades. Few other flowers can match pincushion for                       
production of long stemmed, long lasting cut flowers.                           
                                                                                
 -------------                                                                  
                                                                                
Can I grow Liriope or lily grass here in southwest Virginia? The                
information I've read says it's only hardy from Zone 7 south.                   
                                                                                
The lilyturfs, those grass-like, Oriental evergreen groundcover                 
and edging plants of the genera Liriope and Ophiopogon have long                
been considered plants for the South and the Pacific Coast.                     
However many of them today are grown successfully where tempera-                
tures go as low as -20 degrees. Give it a try! They may be                      
damaged in especially cold winters but should recover.                          
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
I'm looking for an unusual carefree tree. My neighbors all have                 
the large maples, oaks, etc. I would like something smaller. Have               
any ideas?                                                                      
                                                                                
A good choice for your needs may be the American Yellowwood,                    
(Cladrastis lutea). Yellowwood is a native tree of the southeast                
considered by many to be the foremost American flowering tree.                  
Its fragrant white blooms occur in 8 to 14 inch panicles in June.               
The tree is also noted for its attractive bright green leaves and               
smooth beech-like bark. Another asset of this species is the low                
incidence of disease and insect problems,including gypsy moths.                 
The tree should be placed in full sun and well drained soil. It                 
is of medium size and spread (average 40 feet in heaight and 45                 
feet in spread), making it an ideal tree for smaller properties.                
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
I recently moved into a ground floor apartment which has a                      
beautiful back patio surrounded by a wooden wall. I may only be                 
here a year or so and would like to enhance these walls and the                 
narrow planting beds without spending a lot of money on plants                  
which I'll just have to leave when I move out. What kind of                     
suggestions can you give me?                                                    
                                                                                
To give quick color and brighten your walls consider planting                   
several different kinds of annuals vines along with other long                  
blooming annuals such as marigolds. A good choice for easy                      
blooming along the walls is the scarlet runner bean which can be                
planted successively during the growing season for continuous                   
bloom. It is excellent for attracting hummingbirds.                             
                                                                                
Another easy to grow and inexpensive blooming vine is the morning               
glory which now comes in many new and exciting varieties that                   
make it a choice plant for quick color. Though native varieties                 
are known to be a garden pest, new cultivars are not rampant self               
seeders and can be grown safely without fear of invasion. These                 
varieties include 'Heavenly Blue,' 'Scarlet O'Hara' and 'Pearly                 
Gates.'                                                                         
                                                                                
A little known but potentially popular vine to try is Cobaea or                 
Cathedral Bells. This perennial, which is usually treated as an                 
annual, climbs to height of 10-20 feet and comes in shades of                   
deep blue and white.                                                            
                                                                                
An unusual vine that may quickly become your favorite is the                    
Black-eyed susan vine (Thunbergia alata). This vine has                         
characteristic yellow blooms with a black eye making it a unique                
addition to your blooming wall. It is a good choice for low                     
walls, growing to height of four feet.                                          
                                                                                
If you plan to provide evening entertainment, you may wish to                   
plant the Moon Vine which blooms from dusk to dawn. The fragrant                
white blooms of this vine will captivate your guests as well as                 
brighten any gloomy corner of your patio.                                       
                                                                                
Any of these selections are easily affordable when purchased as                 
seeds and sown where they are to grow. As a precaution you should               
check with your neighbors before planting the larger spreading                  
vines along common fences. They may not be as enthusiastic about                
having vining plants as you are, on the other hand, who would                   
complain about free flowers? If you suspect a problem stick to                  
varieties which grow no larger than your fence.                                 
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
I love dogwoods. Is there any way I can extend the blooming                     
season of these plants?                                                         
                                                                                
If you miss the effect of the flowering dogwood after its blooms                
are gone, you can extend the spring dogwood season by using Kousa               
dogwood, (Cornus kousa), in addition to the native varieties.                   
Kousa dogwood is a native  of Japan and Korea which blooms two to               
three weeks after our American varieties have ceased. The                       
pointed, creamy white bracts occur in June and can last up to six               
weeks or longer. The tree develops a beautiful exfoliating bark                 
which provides unusual winter interest. It has an effective red                 
to purple fall foliage as well as pinkish red drupes from August                
through October. The branching pattern is horizontal which is                   
distinctive to the dogwood family.                                              
                                                                                
Kousa dogwood has no serious disease or insect problems.  Kousa                 
prefers a sunny, well drained, organically amended soil while                   
native dogwoods grow in a variety of situations. Kousa dogwoods                 
are slower growing than natives but more drought resistant.                     
                                                                                
When planted at the corner of a house the Kousa, with its                       
horizontal branching habit, will break up the dominant vertical                 
lines of the house. The tree will slowly reach a height of 20                   
feet with an equal spread. Purchase young specimens either in a                 
container or balled and burlapped.                                              
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
March Notes                                                                     
                                                                                
* Plant roses and bare-root shrubs while they are still dormant,                
about 4 weeks before the average date of the last frost.                        
                                                                                
* Buy some new perennials for your flower border. Spring is                     
a good time to renew and add variety to your landscape. Visit                   
a local garden center or secure catalogs from your favorite                     
nursery.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Cannas for early flowering may be started in boxes or large                   
pots in a warm cellar or enclosed porch. Cut the rhizomes into                  
pieces of convenient size and plant in a soil mixture containing                
adequate sand for good drainage. The developing plants are tender               
to cold and may be set in the garden about a week after the                     
average date of the last frost in your area.                                    
                                                                                
* Complete the pruning of shrubs, ornamental trees and fruit                    
trees before growth starts, except for spring flowering shrubs.                 
Prune those which bloom in spring as soon as they finish flower-                
ing.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Repot houseplants that have grown too large for their con-                    
tainers. Cut back leggy plants to encourage compact growth. Root                
the cuttings in moist media to increase your supply of plants.                  
                                                                                
* Don't plow your garden when the soil is wet. It will form                     
clods which are difficult to break up and interfere with cultiva-               
tion during the summer.                                                         
                                                                                
* Don't rush to remove mulch from perennials and strawberries.                  
Leave it over your plants to protect them from later cold spells.               
When plants start to grow, the mulch must be removed to allow                   
leaves to develop in the light. If leaves develop under the                     
mulch, they will become etiolated and yellow from lack of                       
chlorophyll, and may be burned and die when they are exposed to                 
the sun.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Shrubs and trees in the home landscape break up sound waves                   
and reduce the nerve-shattering noise of modern society. Plant                  
some new shrubs and trees this spring to improve the beauty                     
and ambience of your home.                                                      
                                                                                
* Apply a liberal side dressing of 5-10-5 fertilizer on your                    
asparagus bed and around your rhubarb plants. Use about 4                       
lbs. per 100 sq. ft. and scratch it into the top 2 inches of                    
soil. Renew the organic mulch to a depth of about 1 inch to help                
conserve soil moisture during the summer.                                       
                                                                                
* Unsterilized soil may contain organisms that cause damping off,               
a disease that can make young seedlings wither and die suddenly.                
Use a sterilized potting mix in clean pots or flats.                            
                                                                                
* Prune evergreen shrubs before growth starts.                                  
                                                                                
* Boxwood should be pruned by thinning out the top half of the                  
plant and cutting back the branches to retain desired height.                   
                                                                                
* Trees and shrubs which are making weak growth should be                       
fertilized to stimulate more attractive development. About a                    
month before your average last frost apply approximately 1 cup of               
5-10-5 to shrubs 4-8 feet tall. Use more or less with different                 
sized plants. On trees, apply 2 lbs. of 5-10-5 for each inch                    
diameter measured at 3 feet above the ground. Apply uniformly                   
over root zone and water in thoroughly.                                         
                                                                                
* Seed root crops such as carrots, beets, radish and parsnips                   
in your garden.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Start transplants indoors of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant.                 
                                                                                
* Use crabgrass killer before forsythia blooms fade.                            
                                                                                
* When spring-flowering bulbs complete their flowering cycle,                   
fertilize with a little super phosphate or bonemeal to ensure                   
quality blooms next year. Remove the bulb foliage only after                    
it dies naturally.                                                              
                                                                                
* Many annual flowers are very frost hardy when plants are small                
including alyssum, California poppy, candytuft,larkspur, pansy &                
viola, phlox, pinks, Shirley poppy, snapdragon, stock, and sweet                
pea. Seeds can be sown as soon as the soil has thawed.                          
                                                                                
* Divide and transplant perennials such as ajuga, Shasta daisies,               
daylilies, liriope, and oxalis. Rework beds before planting,                    
adding organic matter and fertilizer.                                           
                                                                                
* Greenhouse-grown plants, even hardy kinds, should be acclimati-               
zed before transplanting to the garden in the early spring to                   
minimize the chance of frost injury.                                            
                                                                                
* Spring applications of pesticides should be made on peaches,                  
apples, and pears. Correct timing for spraying depends on the                   
stage of development of flowers. Request a spray schedule from                  
your local agent.                                                               
                                                                                
* Cover old stumps with soil to hasten decay.                                   
                                                                                
* Do not add lime to area for potatoes. The lower pH helps                      
control scab.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Mulches can change soil temperature. Black plastic warms the                  
soil and should be applied before planting. Organic materials                   
delay the sun's penetration thereby keeping the soil cooler. App-               
ly organic mulches after plants are 3-4 inches tall and soil is                 
warm.                                                                           
                                                                                
* A child's first garden should include sunflowers from seeds.                  
The large seeds sprout quickly and dependably and the strong                    
seedlings can push their way through crusted soil. If you are                   
shooting for record sunflowers, your plants will need to top 20                 
feet in height with seed head diameters of 2 feet to be in the                  
running.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Propagate deciduous shrubs such as forsythia and winter jasmine               
now by ground layering.                                                         
                                                                                
* Wait until the weather warms to start putting houseplants                     
outside.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Don't plant more flowers and vegetables than you can maintain.                
Instead, take time to enjoy the spring bulbs and other flowers.                 
                                                                                
* If you haven't done it already, check stored tools and outdoor                
furniture for signs of rust. Remove any surface rust with steel                 
wool and paint with rust-inhibitive paint.                                      
                                                                                
* Rejuvenate your liriope by using a lawn mower to cut back the                 
old foliage to a height of 2 to 3 inches. Avoid mowing too                      
closely and thereby damaging the crown of the plant, as that is                 
where the new growth emerges.                                                   
                                                                                
* Check the average date of the last frost in your area before                  
beginning spring gardening chores. Your county extension agent                  
can give you this information.                                                  
                                                                                
* When buying transplants of flowers and vegetables, choose those               
plants with a compact, bushy form and bright green leaves. Young,               
healthy plants with no flowers or flower buds will adapt more                   
easily and overcome the shock of planting much faster.                          
                                                                                
* Parsley is extremely rich in vitamins A and C. Start some seeds               
indoors now for later transplanting to a sunny corner of the                    
vegetable garden.                                                               
                                                                                
* Houseplants can be watered more frequently with the onset of                  
spring and new growth.                                                          
                                                                                
* Seeds of some annuals such as verbenas, snapdragons and                       
petunias that take 70 to 90 days to bloom should be started                     
indoors in early spring.                                                        
                                                                                
* Variegated plants can help add the illusion of light to a                     
dark area. Shade-loving groundcovers such as variegated liriope,                
ivies, euonymus, and hosta can be very effective for this.                      
                                                                                
* This is the time to start resurrecting the lily pool. Drain and               
clean the pool before growth begins. Plant new hardy water                      
lilies early.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Apply a pre-emergence herbicide before lawn weeds get started.                
These types of chemicals work by preventing the seed from                       
germinating. Therefore, it is important that the herbicides be                  
applied in early spring, before growth of the weed seedlings.                   
Check with your local extension agent for specific recommen-                    
dations.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Don't overexert those underworked winter muscles as you begin                 
your spring gardening. Bend at the knees and lift with your                     
legs, not your back.                                                            
                                                                                
* Hedges can receive their first pruning this month. As you                     
prune, be sure to leave the base of the plant wider than the top.               
This allows sunlight to get to the bottom of the plant, creating                
a full, dense hedge.                                                            
                                                                                
* You may wish to try some new, unusual vegetables in your garden               
this year. A few that can grow successfully in this area are bok                
choy, Jerusalem artichoke, kohlrabi, leeks and horseradish. For                 
planting and harvesting tips, call your extension agent.                        
                                                                                
* Towards the end of the month, plant onion sets, potatoes, peas,               
radishes, asparagus, carrots, turnips, leaf lettuce and other                   
cold-hardy vegetables.                                                          
                                                                                
* Turn the compost pile and add manure.                                         
                                                                                
* Garden magazines are a convenient source for gathering new                    
information. The cost is low, the information up-to-date, and                   
they're delivered to your door.                                                 
                                                                                
* If weeds occur in bulb beds do not remove them by cultivation,                
but pull them by hand so that the bulbs and roots will not be                   
disturbed.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Pick a permanent spot for herbs in the garden. Many of them                   
will come up year after year.                                                   
                                                                                
* When a blanket of snow insulates the lawn, temperatures at                    
ground level may rise to above freezing. Snow mold fungi which                  
appears as a white cottony growth on grass blades thrives at                    
temperatures between 32 and 65 F. To reduce possible snow mold                  
damage, remove heavy snow accumulations in shady areas. If you                  
cannot physically remove the snow, spread ashes or dry peat moss                
on the snow. The dark colored material will absorb solar radiati-               
on and melt the snow faster.                                                    
                                                                                
* Take care to keep off soft and soggy lawns. Lime spreaders,                   
wheelbarrows and other equipment will leave compaction marks.                   
Seed new lawns and do repairs after the land has drained.                       
                                                                                
* Do not spade clay soil when wet. Hard clods will form and                     
interfere with plant emergence and growth.                                      
                                                                                
* Trees which bleed such as birch and maple should not be pruned                
until after their leaves are fully developed.                                   
                                                                                
* Hostas, liriope, daylilies, dicentra, Shasta daisies and coral                
bells are some perennials which can be divided before growth                    
starts.                                                                         
                                                                                
* To extend the asparagus harvest, remove the mulch from only                   
half the bed at first. The sunlight will encourage these plants                 
to sprout more quickly. In 2 or 3 weeks when shoots appear in the               
mulched half, carefully remove the remaining mulch.                             
                                                                                
* When sowing seeds for transplants, leave about 1/4" of space                  
between seeds to allow them to grow adequately and to discourage                
damping-off fungus.                                                             
                                                                                
* The flavor and quality of the new white and yellow varieties of               
beets are similar to the traditional red cultivars.                             
                                                                                
* The Waterlily Society has been formed by a group of                           
aquatic plant lovers. For further information, write them at                    
Box 104, Lilypons, MD 21717.                                                    
                                                                                
* Topiary is the art of clipping and trimming a plant into                      
unusual designs. Forms for indoor typiary can be purchased or                   
shaped by hand from galvanized wire. One media mix for topiary                  
forms is 1 part peatmoss to 1 part potting soil surrounded by                   
sheet moss. Plants such as English ivy and creeping thyme work                  
well for this use.                                                              
                                                                                
* Crabapples, valued for their beautiful spring blossoms and                    
attractive fruit, are members of the rose family. Along with many               
of their relatives, many crabapples are susceptible to diseases                 
such as scab, cedar-apple rust, powdery mildew, and fire blight.                
All of these diseases shorten the life span of the trees and                    
diminish their ornamental qualities. You will want to plant                     
disease-resistant cultivars of crabapple such as 'Ames White',                  
'Autumn Glory', 'Baskatong', 'Beauty', 'Coral Cascade', 'Evelyn',               
'Harvest Gold', 'Molten Lava', 'Red Snow', 'Robinson', 'Tina',                  
or 'Wies'.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Boxwood may be moved now; do not plant them deeper than they                  
were previously planted. Trim and fertilize established boxwood                 
before new growth starts, but do not cultivate under boxwood                    
since their roots are shallow and may be damaged.                               
                                                                                
* After pussywillow catkins have passed their prime, prune the                  
plants drastically to encourage long branches and large catkins                 
for next year.                                                                  
                                                                                
* If your outdoor space is limited, consider gardening without a                
garden. Tomatoes, peppers, lettuce and many other vegetables do                 
well when grown in containers. Barrels, window boxes, cut off                   
milk jugs, almost anything providing good drainage will do as                   
long as it is deep enough to support the plant. Minimum depths                  
for some container-grown vegetables:                                            
 4"-lettuce, radishes, beets, low growing herbs                                 
 6"-chard, turnips, short-rooted carrots                                        
 8"-eggplant, peppers, bush cucumbers                                           
10"-cauliflower, broccoli                                                       
12"-tomatoes, long-rooted carrots                                               
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
March 1986 Press Releases                                                       
                                                                                
Strawberries                    70 lines                                        
Dahlia Culture                  66 lines                                        
Herb Gardening                  54 lines                                        
Grow Your Own Figs              67 lines                                        
Container Gardening             54 lines                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Strawberries                                                                    
                                                                                
Delicious strawberries can be grown in the home garden. Strawber-               
ries will produce more fruit in a small space than almost any                   
other berry crop. Twenty-five plants are enough for a row                       
approximately 40 feet long. They should produce 25 or more quarts               
of berries next spring if planted this year.                                    
                                                                                
Select several varieties to give early, midseason and late                      
harvest. Earlidawn is one of the best very early varieties as                   
its blossoms are somewhat tolerant to cold. Catskill and Pocahon-               
tas are fine for midseason. Surecrop and Redchief will supply                   
large crops of late fruit. Marlate is popular since it bears a                  
week or more after the other late varieties. Everbearing varieti-               
es produce fewer berries which are generally of lower quality,                  
but new varieties are beginning to show promise.                                
                                                                                
You will find strawberries are an easy crop to raise on fertile,                
well drained soil with a pH between 5.7 and 6.5. Fertilization                  
is seldom necessary on good soils supplied with organic matter.                 
Where a soil analysis indicates the need, about 1 lb. per 100' of               
row of a complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 or 10-6-4,                       
should be cultivated into the soil before planting.                             
                                                                                
Strawberries should be planted in the spring 3 or 4 weeks                       
before the average date of the last frost in your locality. Set                 
the plants from 12 to 24" apart, in rows 3 to 3 1/2 feet apart.                 
Set each plant so that the base of the central bud is at the                    
soil level. If set too low, soil may wash over the crown during                 
a rainstorm and smother the plant. If set too high, the top part                
of the roots will be exposed and the plant will make poor growth.               
Spread the roots out and firm the soil about them to eliminate                  
air pockets in the soil.                                                        
                                                                                
Pick off any flowers which develop during the first summer. The                 
plants need to use all of the food produced for the formation                   
of runners which will produce fruit next year. Even if you left                 
the flowers and secured a few berries this year, they would be                  
small and of poor quality.                                                      
                                                                                
Within a few weeks after planting, your strawberry plants will                  
start to develop runners. If allowed to grow without interference               
they will form a matted row about two feet wide. If you choose to               
allow your plants to grow in a matted row, begin with a wide                    
spacing -- 24" between plants.                                                  
                                                                                
Alternatively, you may wish to try the  hill system or the spaced               
row system of training. In the hill system of training, plants                  
are spaced 12" apart in the row but runners are removed as soon                 
as they start developing. Larger crowns with extra large berries                
develop with this system. Many homeowners prefer the hill system                
as plantings are easier to cultivate. When using the spaced row                 
system, plants are set 18 to 24 " apart. Runners are set 6 to 12"               
apart until the desired stand is established. All late forming                  
runners are removed as they appear. Spaced rows produce large,                  
uniform plants.                                                                 
                                                                                
Keep weeds and grass pulled from your strawberry bed. Perform                   
this job regularly, at least ever two weeks in new beds. Cultiva-               
tion must be shallow to prevent root injury. A light mulch (1-2")               
of straw, wood chips, or pine needles will help conserve soil                   
moisture and suppress weeds.                                                    
                                                                                
Your strawberries must continue to grow vigorously during the                   
summer and fall to develop large crowns with flower buds for the                
crop next summer. Apply water during dry periods. If the foliage                
becomes somewhat light green in late summer, broadcast 1 lb. of                 
10-10-10 per 100' row in late August or early September. Brush                  
the fertilizer off the plants to avoid foliage injury.                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Dahlia Culture                                                                  
                                                                                
The dahlia is an ideal flower for the home garden. It grows                     
vigorously and produces an abundance of beautiful flowers. The                  
blooms are excellent for arrangements, and for exhibition                       
purposes.                                                                       
                                                                                
Dahlias are now available in many sizes and shapes. Try some                    
of the new and attractive forms which have a wide range of                      
colors. Get catalogs from seedsmen who handle this plant, or                    
check with your local florist or garden center to be sure they                  
plan to have some of the new varieties this year.                               
                                                                                
Single dahlias look like large daisies with eight white or                      
colored petals. Collarette varieties are similar to the singles,                
but have an extra row of short petals around the center disc of                 
the flower. Orchid-flowered dahlias have very graceful form with                
eight petals curled into attractive pointed tubes.                              
                                                                                
New colors and forms are available in the double varieties. The                 
large decorative types have flowers which are eight to 12 inches                
across. Ball dahlias have compact round flowers from four                       
to six inches in diameter. Pompon types resemble small ball                     
dahlias, two inches or less in diameter. The cactus varieties                   
are very attractive and are particularly useful in flower                       
arrangements.                                                                   
                                                                                
Dahlias can be propagated by seed but plants from seed frequently               
do not come true to variety. Seeds which are produced in large                  
quantities by the single-flowered varieties are usually sold as                 
annual mixtures. Double-flowered varieties rarely produce                       
reliable seed. Tuberous root divisions give the showiest blooms.                
                                                                                
Dahlias grow best in a deep, fertile, well-drained soil in a                    
sunny location. Tubers should be spaced three or four feet apart                
if large exhibition flowers are desired. For small flowers in                   
beds or for cutting, plants may be about two feet apart. The                    
cluster of tuberous roots may be separated and planted at about                 
the time of the last killing frost. Root divisions should be                    
placed on their side about five inches deep. Cover with about two               
inches of soil and fill the remainder of the hole as the shoots                 
develop.                                                                        
                                                                                
For large blooms, allow only one stalk per root to develop.                     
Remove all small weak sprouts. When the shoot is about six inches               
tall, pinch back to about the third set of leaves to promote                    
branching. Only four main branches should be allowed to develop                 
on large flowering varieties. As the stems grow they should be                  
tied to a stake to prevent breakage. Disbudding may be practiced                
to secure large blooms for exhibition purposes.                                 
                                                                                
Seeds of the small varieties are sown early indoors in a light-w-               
eight medium. They will germinate in 10 to 15 days at 70 degrees                
F. Transplant young plants into individual pots after the third                 
true leaf develops. Plant in the garden after danger of frost has               
past.                                                                           
                                                                                
Adequate moisture must be provided to promote vigorous growth                   
and flower production in dahlias. A mulch of 1 or 2 inches of                   
peat moss or sawdust will help conserve soil moisture during dry                
periods. Eliminate all weeds which would compete with the plants.               
Fertilize at planting time with 1/2 cup per plant of a 5-10-5 or                
10-10-10 fertilizer dug into the soil. Faded flowers should be                  
removed to encourage continuous blooming. Gardeners should be on                
the lookout for damage by Japanese beetles; treat if necessary.                 
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Herb Gardening                                                                  
                                                                                
Herbs may be grown in the home garden to provide seasoning for                  
food, flavoring for cool drinks, and scents and decorations for                 
the home. Plants are quite free from damage by diseases and                     
insects. A few short rows in the vegetable or flower garden will                
provide an adequate supply for the average family.                              
                                                                                
A well-drained, fertile soil with pH 6.0 to 7.0 is best for                     
herbs. Apply two pounds of 10-10-10 or four pounds of 5-10-5                    
fertilizer per 100 square feet, and disc or rototill into the                   
soil when the garden is prepared for planting.                                  
                                                                                
For small seeded herbs, sow seeds directly into peat pots filled                
with seed-starting media about six weeks before the last frost                  
date. Large seeded varieties may also be started by this method,                
or sow seed directly into the garden about one week before the                  
average date of the last frost in your area. Sow the seeds thinly               
in a shallow furrow and cover with soil equal to about four times               
their largest diameter.                                                         
                                                                                
Control weeds during the growing season to eliminate their use                  
of water and nutrients which are needed by your herbs. A one inch               
mulch of shredded leaves or other loose organic material will                   
conserve soil moisture and help control annual weeds. Irrigation                
may be necessary for young plants during periods of drought.                    
                                                                                
Parsley and chives should probably be the first choices for the                 
herb garden. Short rows of each will produce an ample supply for                
culinary use during the summer. Plants of these two herbs can                   
also be grown in pots to provide succulent green sprigs through-                
out the year.                                                                   
                                                                                
Spearmint is an easily grown perennial which spreads by rhizomes                
underground. Mint seeds are very small and often have low                       
germination rates. It would be easier to acquire a start of                     
spearmint from a friend with an herb garden. Use caution in                     
where you plant any mint as they tend to be very invasive. Some                 
people prefer to grow them in containers that have been buried                  
partially in the ground.                                                        
                                                                                
Sage and thyme are perennials which will give repeated crops of                 
leaves for seasoning meats, dressing and soups. Fennel is                       
possibly more like a vegetable than an herb. Its bulb-like base                 
is used raw or cooked as a salad. Basil and borage planted for                  
their aromatic leaves may be included as attractive plants in                   
a flower border. Leaves of the nasturtiums give a peppery                       
flavor to a cold meat sandwich. All these herbs are easily                      
started from seed.                                                              
                                                                                
Many other types of herbs are available for gardeners who wish                  
to grow them. Consult your favorite garden catalog for descripti-               
ons and sources of seeds.                                                       
                                                                                
Grow Your Own Figs                                                              
                                                                                
The fig was one of the most important fruits for people of early                
civilizations which developed around the Mediterranean Sea. It                  
seems to have been introduced into Greece at lease eight centur-                
ies B.C. The fig is mentioned in numerous places in the Bible,                  
and was eulogized by many early Greek writers. At one period, the               
fruit was so highly prized in Greece, that its export was                       
forbidden by law.                                                               
                                                                                
Fig shrubs or trees grow to a height of 12 to 30 feet. A member                 
of the mulberry family, it is closely related to the common                     
indoor plant, the rubber plant. Figs are useful as ornamental and               
fruit bearing plants for the home garden. They can be planted                   
in protected locations in eastern Virginia and only the hardiest                
varieties should be used.In the areas where low temperatures                    
occur in winter, soil may be mounded up around the plants to a                  
height of 18 inches. If the top is killed back by cold, new                     
shoots will develop from the protected basal portion of the trunk               
and branches.                                                                   
                                                                                
There is considerable variation in hardiness of the common fig.                 
Some varieties are only slightly more resistant to cold than                    
orange trees. Mature trees of a few varieties will survive                      
winters in which the temperature may occasionally drop to nearly                
zero. Celeste is a popular variety. Its fruit is medium to                      
small sized, firm, juicy, sweet, and of excellent quality. Brown                
Turkey, although less vigorous than Celeste, is also an acceptab-               
le variety for home gardeners in eastern Virginia. The fruit is                 
medium to large and of good quality, though fruit is subject to                 
cracking in wet weather.                                                        
                                                                                
The fig tree is somewhat unusual in that it normally produces                   
two crops each year. The first crop is borne near the end of                    
branches which grew during the previous summer. The second crop                 
develops on new shoots of the current seasons growth.                           
                                                                                
Young trees one or two years old, and 18 to 36 inches tall,                     
should be selected for planting. Set the trees in early spring                  
about one month befor the average date of the last frost in your                
area.                                                                           
                                                                                
Figs grow best on a relatively heavy soil. Grass and weeds should               
be controlled for a distance of several feet around the trunk by                
cultivation or the use of mulch.Fertilizer or manure should be                  
used very sparingly around figs. If too much nitrogen is used,                  
the shoots will be more tender to the cold, and the fruits more                 
susceptible to splitting and souring.                                           
                                                                                
Figs should be harvested when they become soft, just before full                
ripeness. Firm, immature fruits do not develop their normal                     
flavor. Over-ripe figs may develop a sour odor because of                       
the fermentation of the juice.                                                  
                                                                                
Figs are more difficult to harvest than most other fruits.                      
Cotton gloves should be worn to protect hands from the irritating               
latex which exudues from the fruit and branching during the                     
picking operation. Figs require a rather strong twisting motion                 
to lossen the fruit from the stem.                                              
                                                                                
Figs may be eaten fresh, canned, or dried. The fruit is a                       
popular delicacy which may be used in salads, cakes or candies.                 
From a nutritional point of view, the fig is a beneficial                       
fruit because it contains useful quantities of protein, carbohyd-               
rates, calcium, phosphorus, and iron. It also supplies vitamins                 
A, B, and C.                                                                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Container Gardening                                                             
                                                                                
Even without a lot of land, home vegetable gardeners can produce                
a bountiful crop by container gardening. A window sill, patio,                  
balcony or doorstep can provide sufficient space for a productive               
container garden.                                                               
                                                                                
Almost any container can be used for plants as long as: 1) it is                
big enough to support the plants when they are fully grown; 2)                  
it will hold the potting media; and 3) it provides adequate                     
drainage. Examples are barrels, flower pots, cut off milk and                   
bleach jugs, recycled plastic coolers, window boxes and hanging                 
baskets.                                                                        
                                                                                
Containers should not be made of wood treated with creosote or                  
pentachlorophenol wood preservatives which may be toxic to plants               
and harmful to the gardener. Containers should have holes in                    
the bottom for drainage and be supported above the ground so that               
the plant roots do not stand in water. Most plants need containe-               
rs at least six inches deep.                                                    
                                                                                
A lightweight potting mix should be used in the containers. Most                
garden soil cannot be used because it is too heavy. The particles               
in garden soil are very small and become compacted in the contai-               
ner when it is watered. Media used in containers must be porous                 
because roots require both air and water.                                       
                                                                                
A packaged potting soil available at local garden centers                       
containing equlal parts of peat moss and perlite or vermiculite                 
is good to use because it is lightweight and sterile. Or gar-                   
deners can mix their own using this formula: for one bushel of                  
media, mix together half a bushel of #2 size vermiculite or                     
perlite; half a bushel of peat moss; five tablespoons ground                    
limestone; two tablespoons superphosphate; and eight tablespoons                
5-10-5 or 6-12-6 fertilizer.                                                    
                                                                                
Try dwarf and miniature varieties of vegetables in containers.                  
Or grow vegetables that occupy little space, such as carrots and                
radishes, and crops that continue to bear over a period of time,                
such as tomatoes and peppers.                                                   
                                                                                
The amount of sunlight that the garden spot receives may deter-                 
mine what crops can be grown. Generally root and leaf crops can                 
tolerate partial shade; but vegetables grown for their fruits,                  
such as tomatoes and peppers, need at least five hours of full                  
sunlight a day.                                                                 
                                                                                
Vegetables grown in containers can be attacked by the various                   
types of insects and diseases that are common to any vegetable                  
garden. Plants should be inspected periodically for the presence                
of foilage and fruit-feeding insects as well as the occurrence                  
of diseases. Plants grown in containers need the same care as                   
those in a garden and give the gardener a lot of the same                       
satisfactions.                                                                  
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan and Debbie Blosser,               
Horticulture Extension Technicians, working with Diane Relf,                    
Extension Specialist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener                   
Question Box has been developed for agent use in preparing radio                
and newspaper features.                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
The Virginia Gardener Question Box March 1986                                   
                                                                                
Blueberry culture                               50 lines                        
'Bleeding' of grape vines                       14 lines                        
Repotting houseplants                           34 lines                        
Using manure in the garden                      28 lines                        
Black raspberry renovation                      45 lines                        
Bleeding heart                                  30 lines                        
Rhubarb culture                                 79 lines                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
I enjoyed picking blueberries at a farm in the country. What                    
would I need to do to grow my own?                                              
                                                                                
Many home gardeners have been successful with blueberry plantings               
in Virginia. Although they may be grown in any area where native                
blueberries, azaleas, mountain laurel, or rhododendrons do well,                
they have a better flavor when grown where nights are cool during               
the ripening season.                                                            
                                                                                
Set blueberry plants in early spring, about 3 or 4 weeks before                 
the average date of the last frost. Plants are usually placed                   
every 4' in rows 6' apart. Blueberries should be planted where                  
they have full sunlight most of the day, and far enough from the                
roots of trees to avoid competition for moisture and nutrients.                 
The plants are shallow-rooted and must either be irrigated or                   
heavily mulched. Adequate drainage must be provided, because                    
blueberry bushes cannot tolerate wet feet.                                      
                                                                                
Blueberries grow best is porous, moist, sandy soils high in                     
organic matter with a pH range of 4.0 to 5.2. Have a soil test                  
made. If your soil is not acidic enough for blueberries, work                   
materials such as peat moss, oak leaves, pine needles, or sulfur                
into the area where the plants are to be set. This should be done               
6 months to a year before planting. Once the proper acidity is                  
established, it must be maintained through the annual use                       
of an acid fertilizer.                                                          
                                                                                
Blueberries are very exacting in soil and moisture requirements,                
but require little protection from insect and disease pests.                    
Birds are by far the greatest pest in the blueberry planting.                   
Covering the bushes with wire cages, fish or plastic netting, or                
tobacco cloth, is perhaps the best method of bird control.                      
Aluminum pie tins suspended by a string or wire above the bushes                
have been used successfully to keep the birds away.                             
                                                                                
Cross pollination is necessary for a good crop of blueberries. To               
provide for adequate cross pollination, two or more varieties of                
blueberries should be planted. The following varieties suggested                
for planting in home gardens in Virginia ripen over a 6 to 8 week               
period, beginning in early June and continuing through July. All                
are vigorous and productive under good growing conditions, and                  
produce berries of large size and good quality: Earliblue (not                  
recommended for planting in western Virginia), Ivanhoe, Blueray,                
Bluecrop, Jersey, Berkeley, Herbert and Coville.                                
                                                                                
The VCES publication 426-840 discusses the culture of small fruit               
crops in detail. You may request this bulletin by contacting your               
local extension agent.                                                          
                                                                                
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When I was pruning my grape vines, a strange thing happened. A                  
clear fluid began oozing out of the cuts. Is this harmful to                    
the plant?                                                                      
                                                                                
"Bleeding" of grape vines is normal if you prune vines after they               
have started growing. Pruning during dormancy does not usually                  
cause bleeding, but it can occur if a couple of warm days come                  
along right after pruning. Bleeding is not harmful to your vines,               
so don't worry about it.                                                        
                                                                                
If you want good size and quality fruit, you must prune your                    
vines annually. The best time to prune is while the vines are                   
dormant. Avoid heavy pruning in the middle of the summer as it                  
weakens the vines and encourages late growth that may not survive               
the winter.                                                                     
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
When should I repot my houseplants and how should I go about it?                
                                                                                
Foliage plants require repotting when their roots have filled                   
their pot and are growing out the bottom. Spring is the best                    
time to transplant as the weather is ideal to help the plant                    
recover from transplant stress. The pot selected for repotting                  
should be no more than two inches larger in diameter than the pot               
the plant is currently growing in, as an oversized pot will cause               
water logging of the soil and actually stunt growth. The pot                    
should have at least one drainage hole.                                         
                                                                                
Most plants are removed easily from their pot by holding the                    
container upside down and knocking the edge against any solid                   
object. Hold your hand over the soil, placing the plant between                 
the fore and middle fingers. Never try to pull the plant out of                 
the pot by its stem. If the plant has become root bound, it will                
be necessary to cut and unwind any roots that circle the pot                    
base, otherwise these roots will never develop normally. If the                 
old soil surface has accumulated a salty crust, the top inch                    
should be carefully removed.                                                    
                                                                                
Potting media used should be coarse enough to allow good drainage               
yet have good water retention capabilities. Media should be                     
moistened before you begin repotting as many potting soil mixes                 
contain peat moss which sheds moisture for a time before it                     
absorbs water. Begin repotting by placing a small amount of fresh               
media in the bottom of the pot. Set the rootball in the middle of               
the new soil. Fill soil around the sides between the rootball and               
pot. Do not add soil above the original level on the rootball,                  
unless the roots are exposed, or it has been necessary to remove                
some of the surface soil. Firm or settle the soil by tapping the                
pot against a table top and gently press the soil with your                     
fingers. Do not pack the soil. Make sure you leave space between                
the soil level and the top of the pot to allow for watering.                    
                                                                                
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Does all manure work in the garden? Aren't some strong enough to                
burn the plants? What about dog and cat droppings and the stuff                 
they sell packaged at the garden center?                                        
                                                                                
All manure is not alike. Manure from horses, cattle, pigs,                      
sheep and even pets has different properties. Before using any                  
type of manure, it is best to know the type and check with your                 
extension agent to find out if, how, when and how much to apply.                
                                                                                
Fresh sheep, rabbit and poultry manure have a very high nitrogen                
content, and so must be well rotted before using on a garden.                   
This means storing or composting the manure a year or so before                 
using it on a garden. Horse and cattle manure can be composted,                 
or applied to the garden in the fall to give it some time to                    
break down. Some garden centers offer sterilized bags of manure,                
but this form of fertilizer can become quite expensive if you are               
amending a large garden.                                                        
                                                                                
Roundworm, an intestinal parasite of pigs, is found in some                     
swine manure. Because of this parasite, some people neglect                     
using swine manure, but humans have rarely been infected with                   
roundworms traced to the use of pig manure in their gardens.                    
Simple hygiene--cleansing of hands after working in the garden                  
and washing of harvested crops--should eliminate any problems.                  
                                                                                
Dog and cat manure should be avoided because it could contain                   
parasite eggs and/or larvae which can infect man. Dogs may                      
harbor roundworms, while cats can be host to toxoplasmosis, a                   
protozoan parasite. (Information provided by Dr. Jorden Hansen,                 
Assistant Professor, Pathobiology & Public Practice)                            
                                                                                
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I recently bought a small farm that has a neglected patch of                    
black raspberries. I need information on when and how it would be               
best to trim and thin out these plants as they are very overgrown               
and thick.                                                                      
                                                                                
Before attempting to renovate your black raspberry patch,                       
consider two things. First, determine if it is a wild or cultiva-               
ted stand. A wild stand will not be worth putting much effort                   
into as newer, more productive varieties are available. Second,                 
be aware that black raspberries are more prone to virus diseases                
and should not be left near to where one anticipates planting                   
red raspberries. If your plot is a cultivated planting and you                  
choose to keep it, the chance of revitalizing it should be good                 
if proper pruining is done (assuming that other environmental                   
conditions such as plenty of sunlight and adequate moisture are                 
present for the plants.)                                                        
                                                                                
Start the renovation of cultivated black raspberry plants late                  
this winter with a dormant pruning to thin out and cut back                     
excess growth. Delay dormant pruning for bramble fruits until the               
danger of severe cold is passed in the winter, but before the                   
buds begin to swell for the new spring growth.                                  
                                                                                
In dormant pruning, remove all the dead, weak, and severely                     
damaged canes; in addition, eliminate crowded conditions. Cut out               
any dead canes since bramble fruits have biennial cane growth;                  
that is, they fruit on two year old canes which then die. Thin                  
each plant so that only four or five of the best year-old                       
canes remain per clump. Then, cut the side branches of the black                
raspberry canes so that they are only nine to tweleve inches                    
long. Since the new raspberry canes produced this year will be                  
the ones that fruit next year, you will want to save young, thick               
fruiting canes that are a half-inch or more in diameter.                        
                                                                                
In addition to the dormant pruning of the black raspberry plants,               
you should prune the young black raspberry shoots when they are                 
about two feet high next summer. For black raspberries, this                    
pruning operation, referred to as summer-topping, consists                      
of removing the top three or four inches of the new shoots.                     
Topping keeps the canes from growing too tall. To prevent the                   
possible spread of disease, canes should not be topped when they                
are wet or when rain is forecast that day.                                      
                                                                                
Since your black raspberry planting has been neglected for a                    
while, it would be advisable to take a soil test from the area                  
to see if there are any particular nutrient needs or a need for                 
lime. Normally, on fertile soils or where a good mulch is                       
maintained, bramble fruits do not need a regular fertilizer                     
program. If growth has been poor, the addition of one half to one               
pound of nitrate of soda to each 100 feet of row when growth                    
begins in the spring will be beneficial. (Adapted from an article               
by John Arbogast, Roanoke City Extension Agent.)                                
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
As a Valentine's Day gift, a friend ordered me a live plant                     
called bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis.) What should I                     
do when this arrives?                                                           
                                                                                
The flowers of the plant Dicentra spectabilis, the common or                    
garden bleeding heart, resemble tiny living valentines; pink                    
heart-shaped flowers appear on curved racemes. The plant does not               
ordinarily flower on February 14th, but could be made to do so                  
under controlled conditions. Ordinarily, it flowers in April                    
through early June, depending upon the part of the state in which               
you live.                                                                       
                                                                                
Early spring planting gives the best results for bleeding heart.                
Ordinarily, nurseries wait to ship planting stock until it is the               
correct planting time in your zone. Should your plant arrive                    
before the soil is workable, it may be stored for a week or two                 
in the refrigerator. Keep the plant in the original shipping                    
wrapper so it will not dry out.                                                 
                                                                                
The soil for dicentra should be rich in humus, and possess                      
excellent drainage in order for the plant to thrive and grow                    
healthy. Once planted, it thrives best when left alone in an                    
undisturbed environment.                                                        
                                                                                
Partial shade provides the best conditions for bleeding heart,                  
whether in the garden border or slipped in among shrubs so that                 
it is protected, but not crowded by the surrounding vegetation.                 
The foliage of garden bleeding heart is a rich green and its                    
texture is fine enough to add interest to the flower border and                 
provide contrast with the neighboring plants. Plants can grow                   
to a height of three feet, but two feet is more common. As the                  
summer progresses, the foliage is prone to die-back.                            
                                                                                
There is a variety known as D. spectabilis `Alba,' which is                     
white bleeding heart. Usually this plant is not as sturdy or                    
reliable as the species and more difficult to locate.                           
                                                                                
 --------------                                                                 
                                                                                
How do I establish a bed of rhubarb?                                            
                                                                                
Rhubarb, or pie plant, is one of the least finicky, most hardy,                 
longest living garden perennials. It does require a period of                   
dormancy and therefore, depending upon the cultivar, may not do                 
well in hotter parts of the state.                                              
                                                                                
As with all perennials, there are two ways to get rootstock:                    
from your neighbors and friends, or from a nursery grower. If you               
have a friend who plans to separate a rhubarb plant in the                      
spring, show up on the day with a sharp spade. Dig carefully to                 
expose the root system. Using the spade, cut straight down                      
through the roots so that each section you separate from the main               
crown has at least one strong bud. Two or three clumps of roots                 
should be ample for most families. (Ten pounds of stalks is the                 
average consumption per person per season.)                                     
                                                                                
Alternatively, obtain roots through a nursery grower in very                    
early spring. If a choice of rhubarb root stocks is offered,                    
choose the newer, all-red varieties.                                            
                                                                                
You may want to test the pH of your soil before planting the                    
roots. Rhubarb will do well in a pH range between 5.5 and 7.0.                  
The ideal way to prepare the soil is to dig holes three feet to                 
four feet on center, each hole being two feet deep and two feet                 
across. Discard the subsoil. Line the bottom of each hole with                  
six to eight inches of well-rotted cow manure, and then fill the                
holes with a mixture of equal parts compost and topsoil. One                    
pound of 5-10-20 per 100 feet of row before plants are set is                   
recommended for this heavy feeder. Set the roots, one per hole,                 
so that the tops of the roots lie two inches below the surface.                 
Roots should be planted as soon as the soil is workable in the                  
spring.                                                                         
                                                                                
Since the plant is long-lived, be sure to situate it where it                   
will remain undisturbed for years. Every five years or so, each                 
clump of roots should be dug up and separated; in this way you                  
will be assured of thick, tender stalks. Plants left alone too                  
long will lose their vitality and produce only thin stalks.                     
                                                                                
Many gardeners mulch their rhubarb plants with decomposed cow                   
manure in the fall. In the spring they remove the mulch, fertili-               
ze, and then replace it to encourage thick, juicy stalks every                  
spring. Seedstalks should be cut if you ever see them forming, as               
they sap energy from the roots. It is preferable to obtain roots                
rather than start rhubarb from seeds; frequently, seeds are not                 
true to variety and take a long time to become established.                     
                                                                                
Because rhubarb stalks, like asparagus, are the result of                       
nutrients stored in the roots, it is important not to harvest the               
first year and harvest lightly the second year. Harvest from                    
early spring until June. Always grasp the base of each stalk and                
pull sharply. Don't cut stalks with a knife as large stubs left                 
by cutting may become diseased and cause the rhizomes to which                  
they are attached to rot. Beginning in the third year, harvest                  
only for about eight weeks.                                                     
                                                                                
Immediately after pulling stalks, cut the leaves from the                       
petiole; the stalks will retain their moisture much longer. While               
the stalks have been used as a fruit, the leaves are not used                   
because of their poisonous concentration of oxalic acid. Ingesti-               
on can cause gastroenteritis; damage can result from the formati-               
on of calcium oxalate in the victim's kidneys.                                  
                                                                                
Even though this plant is very pest resistant, you should watch                 
for Japanese beetle and rhubarb curculio infestation. Crown rot                 
might be another problem. Rot forms at the base of the leaf                     
stalks, and wilting progresses from stalk base to stalk base                    
until the plant dies. There is no remedy. Dig up the plant                      
carefully to remove the infected roots and as much of the                       
infected soil as possible. Burn or dispose of what you dig up; do               
not compost it.                                                                 
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
March 1987 Monthly Notes                                                        
                                                                                
Herbaceous plants                                                               
                                                                                
* Hostas, liriope, daylilies, dicentra, Shasta daisies and coral                
bells are some perennials which can be divided before growth                    
starts.                                                                         
                                                                                
* If weeds occur in bulb beds do not remove them by cultivation,                
but pull them by hand so that the bulbs and roots will not be                   
disturbed.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Cannas for early flowering may be started in boxes or large                   
pots in a warm cellar or enclosed porch. Cut the rhizomes into                  
pieces of convenient size and plant in a soil mixture containing                
adequate sand for good drainage. The developing plants are tender               
to cold and may be set in the garden about a week after the                     
average date of the last frost in your area.                                    
                                                                                
* Buy some new perennials for your flower border. Spring is a                   
good time to renew and add variety to your landscape. Visit a                   
local garden center or secure catalogs from your favorite                       
nursery.                                                                        
                                                                                
 * The Waterlily Society has been formed by a group of                          
aquatic plant lovers. For further information, write them at                    
Box 104, Lilypons, MD 21717.                                                    
                                                                                
* Rejuvenate your liriope by using a lawn mower to cut back the                 
old foliage to a height of 2 to 3 inches. Avoid mowing too                      
closely and thereby damaging the crown of the plant, as that is                 
where the new growth emerges.                                                   
                                                                                
* Divide and transplant summer and fall blooming perennials                     
(astilbe, aster, bleeding heart, coral bells, daylilies, phlox,                 
shasta daisies). Perennials perform best in well-drained soil                   
with plenty of humus. Astilbe, hosta, and bleeding heart will                   
bloom in the shade.                                                             
                                                                                
* Some annuals such as verbenas, snapdragons and petunias that                  
take 70 to 90 days to bloom, and should be started indoors in                   
early spring or purchased as green house grown transplants.                     
                                                                                
Woody ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* Hedges can receive their first pruning this month. As you                     
prune, be sure to leave the base of the plant wider than the top.               
This allows sunlight to get to the bottom of the plant, creating                
a full, dense hedge.                                                            
                                                                                
* Crabapples, valued for their beautiful spring blossoms and                    
attractive fruit, are members of the rose family. Along with many               
of their relatives, many crabapples are susceptible to diseases                 
such as scab, cedar-apple rust, powdery mildew, and fire blight.                
All of these diseases shorten the life span of the trees and                    
diminish their ornamental qualities. Plant disease-resistant                    
cultivars of crabapple such as 'Ames White', 'Autumn Glory',                    
'Baskatong', 'Beauty', 'Coral Cascade', 'Evelyn', 'Harvest Gold',               
'Molten Lava', 'Red Snow', 'Robinson', 'Tina', or 'Wies'.                       
                                                                                
* Plant roses and bare-root shrubs while they are still dormant,                
about 4 weeks before the average date of the last frost.                        
                                                                                
* Divide and transplant perennials such as ajuga, Shasta daisies,               
daylilies, liriope, and oxalis. Rework beds before planting,                    
adding organic matter and fertilizer.                                           
                                                                                
* Trees and shrubs which are making weak growth should be                       
fertilized to stimulate more attractive development. About a                    
month before your average last frost apply approximately 1 cup of               
5-10-5 to shrubs 4-8 feet tall. Use more or less with different                 
sized plants. On trees, apply 2 lbs. of 5-10-5 for each inch                    
diameter measured at 3 feet above the ground. Apply uniformly                   
over root zone and water in thoroughly.                                         
                                                                                
* Dogwoods and magnolias should only be moved in early spring.                  
Always move magnolias with a ball of dirt.                                      
                                                                                
* This is the time to start resurrecting the lily pool. Drain and               
clean the pool before growth begins. Plant new hardy water lilies               
early.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Plant new rose bushes in properly dug beds. Fertilize estab-                  
lished roses after pruning. It is wise to have your soil tested                 
about every two years. If black spot or powdery mildew have been                
a problem, start applications of a recommended fungicide. Contact               
your local agent for current recommendations. When pruning or                   
cutting roses, cut all flower stems 1/4 inch above a complete (5                
leaflet) leaf leaving two complete leaves below the cut bud.                    
Always cut on a slant. Disbud hybrid tea roses when the buds                    
first form to prevent leaving a scar.                                           
                                                                                
* Prune evergreen shrubs before growth starts.                                  
                                                                                
* Trees which bleed such as birch and maple should not be pruned                
until after their leaves are fully developed.                                   
                                                                                
* Complete the pruning of shrubs, ornamental trees before growth                
starts, except for spring flowering shrubs. Prune those which                   
bloom in spring as soon as they finish flowering.                               
                                                                                
* Propagate deciduous shrubs such as forsythia and winter jasmine               
now by ground layering.                                                         
                                                                                
* Boxwood should be pruned by thinning out the outer foliage of                 
the plant and cutting back the branches to retain desired height.               
                                                                                
* When spring-flowering bulbs complete their flowering cycle,                   
fertilize with a little super phosphate or bonemeal to ensure                   
quality blooms next year. Remove the bulb foliage only after it                 
dies naturally.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Boxwood may be moved now; do not plant them deeper than they                  
were previously planted. Trim and fertilize established boxwood                 
before new growth starts, but do not cultivate under boxwood                    
since their roots are shallow and may be damaged.                               
                                                                                
* Prune spring flowering shrubs right after flowering is com-                   
plete.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Many annual flowers are very frost hardy when plants are small                
including alyssum, California poppy, candytuft,larkspur, pansy &                
viola, phlox, pinks, Shirley poppy, snapdragon, stock, and sweet                
pea. Seeds can be sown as soon as the soil has thawed.                          
                                                                                
 * After pussywillow catkins have passed their prime, prune the                 
plants drastically to encourage long branches and large catkins                 
for next year.                                                                  
                                                                                
Landscape                                                                       
                                                                                
* Variegated plants can help add the illusion of light to a dark                
area. Shade-loving groundcovers such as variegated liriope,                     
ivies, euonymus, and hosta can be very effective for this.                      
                                                                                
* Get your landscape design or redesign on paper. It's easier to                
erase it from a plan than to move it with a shovel.                             
                                                                                
* Shrubs and trees in the home landscape break up sound waves and               
reduce the nerve-shattering noise of modern society. Plant some                 
new shrubs and trees this spring to improve the beauty and                      
ambience of your home.                                                          
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
 * Take care to keep off soft and soggy lawns. Lime spreaders,                  
wheelbarrows and other equipment will leave compaction marks.                   
Seed new lawns and do repairs after the land has drained.                       
                                                                                
* When a blanket of snow insulates the lawn, temperatures at                    
ground level may rise to above freezing. Snow mold fungi which                  
appears as a white cottony growth on grass blades thrives at                    
temperatures between 32 and 65 F. To reduce possible snow mold                  
damage, remove heavy snow accumulations in shady areas. If you                  
cannot physically remove the snow, spread ashes or dry peat moss                
on the snow. The dark colored material will absorb solar radiati-               
on and melt the snow faster.                                                    
                                                                                
* Apply a pre-emergence herbicide before lawn weeds get started.                
These types of chemicals work by preventing the seed from                       
germinating. Therefore, it is important that the herbicides be                  
applied in early spring, before growth of the weed seedlings.                   
Check with your local extension agent for specific recommen-                    
dations.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Use crabgrass killer before forsythia blooms fade.                            
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* When buying transplants, choose those plants with a compact,                  
bushy form and bright green leaves. Young, healthy plants with no               
flowers or flower buds will adapt more easily and overcome the                  
shock of planting much faster.                                                  
                                                                                
* Remember, hardy vegetables such as cabbage, broccoli, lettuce                 
and Brussels sprouts can be transplanted two weeks prior to the                 
average date of the last frost and warm season crops such as                    
tomatoes, eggplant, pepper, muskmelon and watermelon should not                 
be planted until all danger of frost is past.                                   
                                                                                
* Start transplants indoors of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant.                 
                                                                                
* If your outdoor space is limited, consider gardening without a                
garden. Tomatoes, peppers, lettuce and many other vegetables do                 
well when grown in containers. Barrels, window boxes, cut off                   
milk jugs, almost anything providing good drainage will do as                   
long as it is deep enough to support the plant. Minimum depths                  
for some container-grown vegetables:                                            
 4"-lettuce, radishes, beets, low growing herbs                                 
 6"-chard, turnips, short-rooted carrots                                        
 8"-eggplant, peppers, bush cucumbers                                           
10"-cauliflower, broccoli                                                       
12"-tomatoes, long-rooted carrots                                               
                                                                                
* Seed root crops such as carrots, beets, radish and parsnips in                
your garden.                                                                    
                                                                                
* The flavor and quality of the new white and yellow varieties of               
beets are similar to the traditional red cultivars.                             
                                                                                
* When sowing seeds for transplants, leave about 1/4" of space                  
between seeds to allow them to grow adequately and to discourage                
damping-off fungus.                                                             
                                                                                
* To extend the asparagus harvest, remove the mulch from only                   
half the bed at first. The sunlight will encourage these plants                 
to sprout more quickly. In 2 or 3 weeks when shoots appear in the               
mulched half, carefully remove the remaining mulch.                             
                                                                                
* Don't plow your garden when the soil is wet. It will form clods               
which are difficult to break up and interfere with cultivation                  
during the summer.                                                              
                                                                                
* Do not add lime to area for potatoes. The lower pH helps                      
control scab.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Unsterilized soil may contain organisms that cause damping off,               
a disease that can make young seedlings wither and die suddenly.                
Use a sterilized potting mix in clean pots or flats.                            
                                                                                
* Towards the end of the month, plant onion sets, potatoes, peas,               
radishes, asparagus, carrots, turnips, leaf lettuce and other                   
cold-hardy vegetables.                                                          
                                                                                
* Jerusalem artichokes and horseradish are very persistent                      
perennials and may become weeds in your garden.                                 
                                                                                
* You may wish to try some new, unusual vegetables in your garden               
this year. A few that can grow successfully in this area are bok                
choy, Jerusalem artichoke, kohlrabi, leeks and horseradish. For                 
planting and harvesting tips, call your extension agent.                        
                                                                                
* Greenhouse-grown plants, even hardy kinds, should be acclimati-               
zed before transplanting to the garden in the early spring to                   
minimize the chance of frost injury.                                            
                                                                                
* Cloches for tall individual vegetables can be easily improvised               
by wrapping plastic around tomato cages and securing with tape.                 
Leave tops open during the day for ventilation and closed at                    
night by laying a board over the top. Another way would be to                   
place 3 or 4 stakes around each plant to form a frame and drop a                
large plastic bag over them.                                                    
                                                                                
* Apply a liberal side dressing of 5-10-5 fertilizer on your                    
asparagus bed and around your rhubarb plants. Use about 4                       
lbs. per 100 sq. ft. and scratch it into the top 2 inches of                    
soil. Renew the organic mulch to a depth of about 1 inch to help                
conserve soil moisture during the summer.                                       
                                                                                
* A plentiful supply of tomatoes can be obtained from 2-3 plants                
per family member. Additional plants can be planted if you plan                 
to can or make juice.                                                           
                                                                                
* Buy a notebook and use it to keep all your gardening informa-                 
tion. List what you plant in the garden. Include the name of seed               
companies, plant name, variety, planting date, and harvest date.                
During the growing season keep notes on how well the plant does.                
If the variety is susceptible to disease, record what was used to               
treat any problems. All this information will be helpful in                     
planning future gardens.                                                        
                                                                                
* Parsley is rich in vitamins A and C. Start some seeds indoors                 
now for later transplanting to a sunny corner of the vegetable                  
garden.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Plan your vegetable garden on a sheet of paper to utilize the                 
space most efficiently. Remember to rotate the vegetables in the                
garden to reduce insect and disease problems.                                   
                                                                                
* One way to avoid the danger of unusually cold nights is to set                
water-filled plastic jugs around each seedling. Warmed by the                   
sun, these will radiate heat all night, preventing cold damage.                 
Fruits/Nuts                                                                     
                                                                                
* Don't rush to remove mulch from strawberries. Leave it over                   
your plants to protect them from later cold spells. When plants                 
start to grow, the mulch must be removed to allow leaves to                     
develop in the light. If leaves develop under the mulch, they                   
will become etiolated and yellow from lack of chlorophyll, and                  
may be burned and die when they are exposed to the sun.                         
                                                                                
* Spring applications of pesticides should be made on peaches,                  
apples, and pears. Correct timing for spraying depends on the                   
stage of development of flowers. Request a spray schedule from                  
your local agent.                                                               
                                                                                
* Weed control is one of the most time-consuming, yet most impor-               
tant, practices in any fruit planting. Young strawberries,                      
raspberries, blueberries, grapes, and tree fruits all suffer if                 
weed growth is uncontrolled. Peach trees, of all the fruit trees,               
suffer the most from weed competition. Mulching helps control                   
weeds.                                                                          
                                                                                
Indoor plants                                                                   
* Topiary is the art of clipping and trimming a plant into                      
unusual designs. Forms for indoor typiary can be purchased or                   
shaped by hand from galvanized wire. One media mix for topiary                  
forms is 1 part peatmoss to 1 part potting soil surrounded by                   
sheet moss. Plants such as English ivy and creeping thyme work                  
well for this use.                                                              
                                                                                
* Wait until the weather warms to start putting houseplants                     
outside.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Repot houseplants that have grown too large for their con-                    
tainers. Cut back leggy plants to encourage compact growth. Root                
the cuttings in moist media to increase your supply of plants.                  
                                                                                
* Houseplants can be watered more frequently with the onset of                  
spring and new growth.                                                          
                                                                                
* Start fertilizing houseplants now for good growth. Any which                  
are rootbound should be repotted.                                               
                                                                                
Tools and equipment (includes container)                                        
                                                                                
* If you haven't done it already, check stored tools and outdoor                
furniture for signs of rust. Remove any surface rust with steel                 
wool and paint with rust-inhibitive paint.                                      
                                                                                
* If your tiller turns over slugglishly in spring, before trying                
to start it, move it to a sunny location and cover it with a                    
black plastic garbage bag for a half hour. A few minutes of solar               
heating will warmup the fluids and make starting easier.                        
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* Check the average date of the last frost in your area before                  
beginning spring gardening chores. Your county extension agent                  
can give you this information.                                                  
                                                                                
* A child's first garden should include sunflowers from seeds.                  
The large seeds sprout quickly and dependably and the strong                    
seedlings can push their way through crusted soil. If you are                   
shooting for record sunflowers, your plants will need to top 20                 
feet in height with seed head diameters of 2 feet to be in the                  
running.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Mulches can change soil temperature. Black plastic warms the                  
soil and should be applied before planting. Organic materials                   
delay the sun's penetration thereby keeping the soil cooler. App-               
ly organic mulches after plants are 3-4 inches tall and soil is                 
warm.                                                                           
                                                                                
* The Virginia gardener magazines are a convenient source for                   
gathering new information. The cost is low, the information                     
up-to-date, and it's delivered to your door.                                    
                                                                                
* Cover old stumps with soil to hasten decay.                                   
                                                                                
* Turn the compost pile and add manure.                                         
                                                                                
* Don't overexert those underworked winter muscles as you begin                 
your spring gardening. Bend at the knees and lift with your legs,               
not your back.                                                                  
                                                                                
Herbs                                                                           
                                                                                
* Pick a permanent spot for herbs in the garden. Many of them                   
will come up year after year.                                                   
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Press Releases March 1987                                                       
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Extension                   
Technician and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Home Horti-                  
culture, with Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab. The                       
Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed for agent                  
use in preparing radio and newspaper features and other                         
educational programs.                                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
Pruning Roses                          68 lines                                 
Lettuce                                55 lines                                 
Raising Jumbo Vegetables               41 lines                                 
Houseplant Fertilizers                 57 lines                                 
Choose Disease Resistant Vegetables    63 lines                                 
White Pine Weevil                      82 linesPruning Roses                   
                                                                                
If roses are not pruned for a number of years, plants deteriorate               
in appearance and often develop more than the usual disease and                 
insect problems, while the flowers become smaller and smaller.                  
                                                                                
Hybrid Tea, Grandiflora and Floribunda roses require annual                     
pruning in the spring after winter protection has been removed.                 
As a guideline, follow the old saying that roses are pruned when                
the forsythia blooms. If rosebushes are pruned too early, injury                
from repeated frost may make a second pruning necessary.                        
                                                                                
For small pruning jobs, the only tools necessary are sharp hand                 
pruning shears and gloves. If the rose collection is large, a                   
small saw with pointed blade and loppers will help. Loppers are                 
used to reach in and cut out large dead canes.                                  
                                                                                
Prune to remove branches that are dead, damaged, diseased, thin,                
weak or growing inward, and branches that cross or interfere with               
other branches. Proper pruning encourages new growth from the                   
base making the plant healthy and attractive and resulting in                   
large blossoms.                                                                 
                                                                                
Remove all dead and diseased wood by cutting at least one inch                  
below the damaged area. Remove all weak shoots. If two branches                 
rub or are close enough that they will do so soon, remove one. On               
old, heavy bushes, cut out one or two of the oldest canes each                  
year. Cut back the remaining canes. The height to which a rose                  
should be cut back will vary depending upon the normal habit of                 
the particular cultivar. The average pruning height for Floribun-               
das and Hybrid Teas is between twelve and eighteen inches, but                  
taller growing Hybrids and most Grandifloras may be left at two                 
feet. Make cuts at a 45 degree angle above a strong outer bud.                  
Aim the cut upward from the inner side of the bush to push growth               
outward and promote healthy shoots and quality flowers.                         
                                                                                
Other types of roses with special considerations in their pruning               
are:                                                                            
                                                                                
The Standard or Tree rose is a Hybrid Tea, Grandiflora, or                      
Floribunda budded at the top of a tall trunk. Prune tree roses as               
you do Hybrid Teas, cutting the branches to within six to ten                   
inches of the base of the crown in order to encourage rounded,                  
compact, vigorous new growth.                                                   
                                                                                
Miniature roses are six to twelve inches high, with tiny blooms                 
and foliage. Miniature roses do not need special pruning. Just                  
cut out dead growth and remove the hips.                                        
                                                                                
Old-fashioned Rambler roses have clusters of flowers, each                      
usually less than two inches across. They often produce pliable                 
canes ten to fifteen feet long in one season. Ramblers produce                  
best on year-old wood, so that this year's choice blooms come on                
last year's growth. Prune immediately after flowering. Remove                   
entirely some of the large old canes. Tie new canes to a support                
for the next year.                                                              
                                                                                
Climbing roses have large flowers, more than two inches across,                 
borne on wood that is two or more years old. Canes are larger and               
sturdier than those of Ramblers. Some flower just once in June,                 
but others, called ever-blooming climbers, flower more or less                  
continuously. This group should be pruned in autumn, any time                   
before cold weather sets in. First cut out dead and diseased                    
canes. After this, remove one or two of the oldest canes each                   
season at ground level to make room for new canes. The laterals,                
or side shoots, are shortened three to six inches after                         
flowering. If the plant is strong, keep five to eight main canes,               
which should be tied to the trellis, fence, wall, or other                      
support. If the plant is not strong, leave fewer canes.                         
                                                                                
Lettuce                                                                        
                                                                                
Lettuce is one of the easiest cool-season vegetable crops to                    
grow. Lettuce withstands light frost, however sunlight and high                 
summer temperatures usually cause bitter flavor and seed stalk                  
formation called bolting. Slow-bolting or heat-resistant                        
varieties are available and are recommended for extending the                   
lettuce-growing season. There are several types of lettuce                      
commonly grown in gardens.                                                      
                                                                                
Crisphead, also known as Iceberg, is the lettuce most widely                    
available in the grocery store. It has a tightly compacted head                 
with crisp, light green leaves. Many gardeners find this type                   
difficult to grow because it requires a long season and some of                 
the most advertised varieties are not heat-resistant and tend to                
go to seed as soon as temperatures go up. Select a slow-bolting                 
variety and start seed indoors in late winter or late summer for                
best results. Transplant in early spring or fall to take                        
advantage of cool weather and mulch well to keep soil temperatur-               
es from fluctuating and to retain moisture. An organic mulch is                 
more suitable than black plastic after soil warms up since                      
organic mulch will cool the soil and black plastic warms the                    
soil.                                                                           
                                                                                
Butterhead or Bibb is a loose-heading lettuce with dark green                   
leaves that are somewhat thicker than those of Iceberg lettuce.                 
Butterheads develop a light yellow, buttery appearance and are                  
very attractive in salads. A miniature variety of butterhead,                   
'Tom Thumb,' is very easy to grow, requiring a short growing                    
time; one head of this lettuce is about right for one or two                    
servings. It may be started indoors for a longer season. Bibb                   
lettuce will develop bitterness readily if temperatures get too                 
high.                                                                           
                                                                                
Romaine, or Cos, is less commonly grown by gardeners, but is a                  
very nutritious lettuce that deserves attention. It too, is                     
relatively easy to grow, forming upright heads with rather wavy,                
attractive leaves. It is particularly heat tolerant and does well               
in the warmer parts of the state.                                               
                                                                                
Most gardeners who grow lettuce raise the leaf type, with either                
green or reddish leaves. This type is a fast-growing, long                      
lasting lettuce good for salads, sandwiches, and in wilted                      
lettuce salads. Sow leaf varieties 10-20 seeds per foot, in rows                
8-12" apart. Thin individual plants 4-8" apart, depending on                    
variety. Leaf lettuce also grows successfully in a wide bed                     
arrangement; seedlings are thinned to 4-8" on all sides. Cos and                
head types should be sown or transplanted 12-18" apart. If in                   
rows, allow 30" between rows.                                                   
                                                                                
Cultivate lettuce carefully as it is shallow-rooted. Use                        
frequent, light waterings to encourage rapid growth, but do not                 
overwater, as this may cause disease of roots or leaves. Overhead               
watering should always be done in the morning to give plants time               
to dry. Mulches are helpful in maintaining soil moisture and                    
keeping leaves off the ground. Mulching also keeps soil off the                 
leaves, reducing chances of disease from soil-borne organisms.                  
                                                                                
Lettuce planted in very early spring should be planted in full                  
sun where the soil will be warm enough for rapid growth. For                    
lettuces later in the season, plant so that crops such as sweet                 
corn, staked tomatoes, pole beans or deciduous trees will shade                 
the plants during the hottest part of the day when temperatures                 
are over 70 degrees. Inter-planting between rows or within the                  
row of later-maturing crops like tomatoes, broccoli, and Brussels               
sprouts, is a space-saving practice. Some lettuces, like 'Tom                   
Thumb' and leaf lettuces, are attractive in flower borders.                     
                                                                                
Raising Jumbo Vegetables                                                       
                                                                                
Every gardener at some time or other has the urge to grow a giant               
pumpkin, tomato, cucumber or other vegetable. If you'd like to                  
try it this year and perhaps get your accomplishment in the                     
"Guinness Book of World Records" here are some tips.                            
                                                                                
First, start with the right variety. Fruit size is controlled by                
genes, and no amount of intensive culture will produce a giant                  
fruit unless a cultivar with the proper genes is grown. 'Atlantic               
Giant' seed, for example, produced the world record 493.5 pound                 
pumpkin. Its vines can grow to 90 feet and the fruits gain up to                
15 pounds a day in summer. 'Giant Show King' white squash can                   
yield 300 pound fruits, 'Cobb Gem' watermelons go to 130 pounds,                
the 'Bushel Gourd' attains 100 pounds, and `Big Daddy' muskmelons               
reach 14 pounds. The world record 6.5 pound tomato grown in 1976                
in Wisconsin was a 'Delicious'. Many flower shows, county and                   
state fairs, now have classes for giant vegetables.                             
                                                                                
Large amounts of food, water, sun, and protection from pests,                   
diseases, wind and weeds, are essential. Use a site with full sun               
and well-drained soil, start seed indoors, and transplant the                   
seedlings as early as possible in the spring.                                   
                                                                                
Growing these record breakers takes extra effort. One prize                     
winner reports that he dug a 4 foot by 6 foot pit, 2 feet deep                  
and filled it with two-to-three-year-old cow manure, covering                   
this with fine topsoil with 10-10-10 fertilizer added to grow his               
pumpkin. Several dozen gallons of water were provided daily.                    
                                                                                
In June and July, he pruned away any fruit that set too early or                
too close to the root. In late July, one fruit was allowed to                   
set, about 15 feet away from the root. Through August, he                       
topdressed with manure tea or fertilizer, especially at the                     
"knees" of the vine, the knobby junctures where tendrils root                   
down into the soil. Finally, he provided 4 foot high windscreens                
of plywood and particle board.                                                  
                                                                                
If you grow a record-size vegetable, send photos, notarized                     
witness identification, and all pertinent background data to                    
Sterling Publishing Co. (2 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10016) for                 
the "Guinness Book of World Records."                                           
                                                                                
House Plant Fertilizers                                                        
                                                                                
House plant fertilizers can be divided into two basic forms water               
soluble and slow release.                                                       
                                                                                
Soluble fertilizer is available as either a concentrated liquid                 
or soluble powder. It is mixed with water according to label                    
directions. It can be applied by hand with a watering can or can                
be proportioned during watering with a hose using a siphon                      
device.                                                                         
                                                                                
Liquid fertilizers may be applied on a regular weekly or bi-week-               
ly schedule throughout the growing season. Or they may be applied               
in a constant feed program in which a dilute solution is used at                
every watering. Because of the different formulations of fertili-               
zer available, it is important to follow the package recommenda-                
tions closely. If the dilution directions are followed, soluble                 
fertilizers will rarely injure or burn plants.                                  
                                                                                
Liquid fertilizer is taken up by the root system but most plants                
will also absorb nutrients quickly through their foliage. Foliage               
uptake is termed foliar feeding. Since liquid fertilizer enters                 
the plant in two ways, both through the leaves and through the                  
roots, it is fast acting. Do not foliar feed plants like African                
Violet that have hairy leaves as these plants may be injured by                 
wetting their leaves.                                                           
                                                                                
If you plan to use liquid fertilizer for house plants it is                     
economical to buy a concentrated brand. There are some liquid                   
fertilizers on the market that are premeasured and are applied                  
right from the bottle. While these predilluted types offer minor                
conveniences, you pay for water and the cost of shipping the                    
water.                                                                          
                                                                                
Slow release fertilizers offer indoor gardeners another excellent               
way to supply their plants with nutrients. Slow release                         
fertilizers are synthetic fertilizers especially prepared to                    
release nutrients over an extended period in amounts that match                 
the plant's need for nutrients. Slow release fertilizers can be                 
catagorized by the way in which the fertilizer is released. The                 
three major types of nutrient release are materials that dissolve               
slowly, materials from which the nitrogen is released by micro-                 
organisms and granular materials with membranes made of resin or                
sulfur.                                                                         
                                                                                
Slow release fertilizers are placed on the soil surface or                      
incorporated into the soil. Sometimes plants are sold with the                  
encapsulated fertilizer already applied. People have mistaken the               
swollen, jelly-like particles of some slow-release fertilizers                  
for insect eggs. The convenience of slow release fertilizers is                 
off set by their expense to many gardeners.                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
Choosing Vegetables Varieties                                                  
                                                                                
The use of disease resistant varieties not only makes gardening                 
easier, it reduces expense and pollution. Although many spray                   
materials which are applied for controlling diseases of                         
vegetables are not toxic to people, it is better to avoid their                 
use if possible. Seed catalogs and Virginia Tech Extension                      
Publication 426-480 Recommended Varieties for Virginia, indicate                
which varieties are resistant to various diseases. Watch for                    
these when you order seed. In addition, watch for heat and cold                 
tolerant varieties which are valuable to extend the harvest of                  
cool season crops.                                                              
                                                                                
Plant breeders have accomplished minor miracles in developing                   
improved varieties. They have searched the world for plants which               
are resistant to some of the common vegetable diseases and used                 
these to develop new varieties which carry the desired                          
resistance, attractive appearance, and high quality desired for                 
the home garden.                                                                
                                                                                
When selecting snap bean varieties look for mosaic resistance.                  
'Topcrop' and 'Cherokee Wax' have this characteristic.                          
'Contender' is resistant to mosaic and also to powdery mildew.                  
                                                                                
'Green Comet' is probably the best broccoli for an early crop                   
because it tolerates the heat of early summer. 'Green Valiant' is               
good for a fall crop because it tolerates cold and will continue                
to grow after frost occurs.                                                     
                                                                                
Select cabbage resistant to yellows. 'Stonehead' is a good one                  
for an early crop. 'Market Prize' is good for a later crop and is               
also resistant to head splitting.                                               
                                                                                
For tender, mild cabbage, plant a savoy type such as 'King' which               
is heat resistant and 'Chieftain' which is an excellent keeper                  
and slow to burst.                                                              
                                                                                
Most sweet corn varieties are resistant to Southern leaf blight.                
Some of the best are 'Gold Crest,' 'Early Xtra Sweet,' 'Sugar                   
Daddy,' 'Illini Super Sweet' or 'Xtra Sweet' and 'Silver Queen.'                
                                                                                
The selection of disease resistant varieties of slicing cucumbers               
is very important. 'Gemini' is resistant to scab, mosaic,                       
anthracnose, leafspot and downy and powdery mildew. 'Dasher II'                 
is another good cucumber which is resistant to anthracnose,                     
leafspot and downy and powdery mildew.                                          
                                                                                
Plant 'Salad Bowl' for an excellent leaf lettuce which is                       
tolerant of heat. 'Imperial 44' is a good head type which also                  
tolerates heat.                                                                 
                                                                                
Sweet peppers are easy to grow if you plant 'Bell Boy' which is                 
resistant to mosaic and drouth. Other good varieties are Emerald                
Giant and Jupiter. Both are resistant to mosaic.                                
                                                                                
Tomatoes are a fine crop for the home garden if disease resistant               
varieties are selected. 'Small Fry' is an excellent small cherry                
type which is resistant to fusarium and verticillium wilt, and                  
nematodes. 'La Roma' is a fine mild paste type which is resistant               
to fusarium wilt. One of the best main crop red tomatoes is                     
'Celebrity.' It is resistant to fruit cracking and many diseases.               
'Sunray' is a mild yellow tomato which is resistant to fusarium                 
wilt and fruit cracking.                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
White Pine Weevil                                                               
                                                                                
The white pine weevil is most common on eastern white pine and                  
Norway spruce, but occasionally attacks Scots and other pines as                
well as white and other spruces. Trees less than 35-40 feet tall                
are most commonly infested. The white pine weevil is a serious                  
pest of forest plantations, Christmas trees, landscape trees, and               
occasionally nursery crops.                                                     
                                                                                
Evidence of damage first appears in late May or early June when                 
the new developing terminal leader and its whorl of lateral                     
shoots wilt and droop. Within 2 to 4 weeks the new growth and                   
occasionally the previous year's growth dies and turns brown.                   
Unless pruned out, the dead shoot remains for several years,                    
although a lower lateral branch gradually grows upward to take                  
its place.                                                                      
                                                                                
The first evidence of  attack is resinous bleeding in March and                 
early April on 8 to 10 inches of stem below the terminal bud of                 
the upright leader. Adult weevils chew tiny holes in the bark to                
feed and lay eggs. During May and June, white, C-shaped grubs                   
with brown heads can be found tunneling down the main terminal                  
shoot. Beginning in July, round exit holes about 1/8 inch in                    
diameter can be found on the stem below the brown, dead terminal.               
                                                                                
Only the upright terminal leader is killed by white pine weevils.               
The deformity of the stem and loss of one to two year's growth is               
especially critical in forest, nursery, and Christmas tree                      
production. Damaged terminals may not be so critical on landscape               
trees. A somewhat crooked trunk and asymmetrical form can be                    
aesthetically pleasing. White pines that are frequently weeviled                
over many years provide picturesque older trees in the landscape.               
To produce straight, fast-growing trees, white pines should be                  
protected annually from white pine weevil attacks.                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
One generation of white pine weevils occur each year. Adults                    
remain hidden and overwinter in the litter on the ground or other               
protected places after emerging from infested terminal shoots in                
July. When the weather warms in March they become active and fly                
to the upright leaders of the host plants. Adults feed for 7 to                 
10 days by chewing tiny holes in the bark. They then begin to                   
deposit eggs individually in their feeding punctures. Within                    
several days, the eggs hatch and tiny grubs begin feeding within                
the stem and tunneling down the shoot. During this time, terminal               
buds open and new shoots develop normally. As the grubs become                  
larger and tunnel more extensively, the new growth wilts, droops                
and by early July turns brown. By the end of June or early July,                
grubs enter the pupal stage and transform to adults which chew                  
their way out of the stem. Adults may fly about to some extent in               
summer and fall, but usually seek hiberation sites in the ground                
litter. They do little if any feeding until the following spring.               
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
The most effective protection against the white pine weevil is                  
the application of a residual insecticide to the bark of the                    
terminal upright shoot of each tree before buds open. Do not                    
treat lateral shoots or the entire plant. Apply treatments no                   
later than late March or early April in more western or higher                  
elevations of Virginia. Since it is not predictable if a                        
particular tree will be attacked, valuable specimen trees should                
be treated every year.                                                          
                                                                                
Reductions in weevil populations may be accomplished by cutting                 
and destroying infested terminal shoots in May and June. Stems                  
must be cut below where larvae are tunneling before adult weevils               
emerage and holes are seen in the bark. If not destroyed, adults                
will emerge from the cut shoots. This method is more effective if               
done over a large area where there is less likelihood of an                     
invasion of flying weevils the following spring from surrounding                
plantings of the hosts.                                                         
                                                                                
Consult the Virginia Cooperative Extension Service Control                      
Recommendations for insecticides and dosage rates.                              
                                                                                
(Article adapted from Insect ID LAb Fact Sheet #7, prepared by                  
John Weidhaas and Dan Hilburn.)                                                 
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
The Virginia Gardener Question Box March 1987                                   
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan and J. T. Foley,                  
Horticulture Extension Technicians and Diane Relf, Extension                    
Specialist, Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box               
has been developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper               
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
Methods of Applying Fertilizer               52 lines                           
Misshapen Hedges                             14 lines                           
Nutrient Content of Organic Fertilizers      63 lines                           
Planting Hollyhock Seed                      16 lines                           
Hardening Transplants                        39 lines                           
Holding Seedlings Before Frost                8 lines                           
Soil Thermometers                            36 lines                           
Edging Plants                                43 lines                           
Nasturtiums                                  25 lines                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Is one method of applying fertilizer to the vegetable garden                    
better than another?                                                            
                                                                                
The different methods of applying fertilizer depend on the                      
formulation of the fertilizer and the needs of the crop.                        
                                                                                
Broadcasting is used over large garden areas or when time or                    
labor is limited. A recommended rate of fertilizer is spread over               
the growing area and left to filter into the soil or incorporated               
into the soil with a rototiller or spade.                                       
                                                                                
In banding, narrow bands of fertilizer are applied in furrows 2                 
to 3 inches from the garden seeds and 1 to 2 inches deeper than                 
the seeds or plants. Placement of the fertilizer band too close                 
to the seeds will burn the roots of the seedlings. The best                     
technique is to stretch a string where the seed row is to be                    
planted. With the corner of a hoe, dig a furrow 3 inches deep, 3                
inches to one side of, and parallel with the string. Spread the                 
fertilizer in the furrow and cover with soil. Repeat the banding                
operation on the other side of the string, then sow seeds                       
underneath the string.                                                          
                                                                                
For plants widely spaced, such as tomatoes, fertilizers can be                  
placed in bands 6 inches long for each plant or in a circle                     
around the plant. Place the bands 4 inches from the plant                       
base. If used in the hole itself, place the fertilizer at the                   
bottom of the hole, work it into the soil, place about 2 inches                 
of soil over the fertilized soil and then put the plant in the                  
hole.                                                                           
                                                                                
Starter solutions can be used as a way to satisfy the need for                  
phosphorus when setting out transplants of tomatoes, eggplant,                  
peppers or cabbage. Apply a water soluble fertilizer high in                    
phosphorus following directions on the label.                                   
                                                                                
Side dressing is the application of dry fertilizer after plants                 
are up and growing. Scatter fertilizer on both sides of the row 6               
to 8 inches from the plants. Rake it into the soil and water                    
thoroughly.                                                                     
                                                                                
Foliar feeding is used when insufficient fertilizer was used                    
before planting; a quick growth response is wanted;                             
micronutrients (such as iron or zinc) are locked into the soil;                 
or when the soil is too cold for the plants to extract or use                   
fertilizer applied to the soil. Water soluble fertilizers are                   
applied according to label directions. Foliar applied nutrients                 
are absorbed and used by the plant quite rapidly. Absorption                    
begins within minutes after application, and with most nutrients,               
it is completed within 1 to 2 days. Foliar nutrition can be a                   
supplement to soil nutrition at a critical time for the plant,                  
but not a substitute. At transplanting time, an application of                  
phosphorus spray will help plants become established in cold                    
soils.                                                                          
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
What can be done with a large, overgrown, bare-bottomed and                     
misshapen hedge?                                                                
                                                                                
If the hedge is made of deciduous plants (plants which drop their               
leaves in fall), rejuvenation is fairly simple. In spring, before               
leaves appear, prune to one foot below the desired height. Then                 
trim carefully for the next few years to give it the shape and                  
fullness desired. Occasionally hedge plants may have declined too               
much to recover from this treatment and replacing them may be                   
necessary.                                                                      
                                                                                
Rejuvenating evergreen hedges is more difficult. As a rule,                     
evergreens cannot stand the severe pruning described above.                     
Arborvitae and yew are exceptions. Other evergreen hedges may                   
have to be replaced.                                                            
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
I would like to know the nutrient content of the following                      
organic fertilizers and how to use them in my garden: cottonseed                
meal, dried blood, fish emulsion, manure.                                       
                                                                                
Cottonseed meal is a by-product of cotton processing. As a                      
fertilizer it is slightly acid in reaction. Formulas vary                       
slightly, but generally contain 6 percent nitrogen, 3 percent                   
phosphorus, and 2 percent potash. Nutrients in cottonseed meal                  
are more readily available to plants in warm soils, and there is                
little danger of burn. Cottonseed meal is frequently used for                   
fertilizing acid loving plants such as azaleas, camellias, and                  
rhododendrons.                                                                  
                                                                                
Blood meal is dried, powdered blood collected from cattle                       
slaughter houses. It is a rich source of nitrogen (approximately                
12 percent). So rich, in fact, that it may do harm if used in                   
excess. The gardener must be careful not to exceed the recommend-               
ed amount suggested on the label. In addition to nitrogen, blood                
meal supplies some of the essential trace elements, including                   
iron.                                                                           
                                                                                
Fish emulsion is a partially decomposed blend of finely pulveriz-               
ed fish. No matter how little is used, the odor is intense, but                 
it dissipates within a day or two. Fish emulsion is high in                     
nitrogen and is a source of several trace elements. In late                     
spring, when garden plants have sprouted, an application of fish                
emulsion followed by a deep watering will boost the plants' early               
growth spurt. Contrary to popular belief, too strong a solution                 
of fish emulsion can cause plants to burn, particularly containe-               
rized plants.                                                                   
                                                                                
Manure is a complete fertilizer, but low in nutrients. Manures                  
vary in nutrient content according to the animal source and what                
the animal has been eating, but a fertilizer ratio of 1-1-1 is                  
typical. Manures are best used as soil conditioners instead of                  
nutrient suppliers. Commonly available manures include horse,                   
cow, pig, chicken, and sheep. The actual nutrient content varies                
widely with the highest concentration found when manures are                    
fresh. As manure is aged, leached, or composted, nutrient content               
is reduced.                                                                     
                                                                                
Even though fresh manures have the highest amount of nutrients,                 
most gardeners prefer to use composted forms of manure to ensure                
lower amounts of salts, thereby reducing the chance of burning                  
plants. Fresh manure should not be used where it will contact                   
tender plant roots. Typical rates of manure applications vary                   
from a moderate 70 pounds per 1000 square feet to as much as one                
ton per 1000 square feet if bedding or straw are mixed in.                      
                                                                                
In the following table showing the approximate nutrient content                 
of manures and suggested yearly rates of applicaton per 1000                    
square feet of garden area, rates given are for materials used                  
singly. If combinations of two or more materials are used, the                  
rate should be reduced accordingly.                                             
                                                                                
                                                                                
Manure type     %N      %P      %K       Pounds/1000sq.ft.                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
Cow            .55     .15     .50       232                                    
Chicken       1.10     .90     .50       125                                    
Hog            .55     .30     .45       255                                    
Horse          .65     .25     .50       210                                    
Sheep         1.00     .75     .40       140                                    
                                                                                
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When should I plant hollyhock seed? Can I expect any flowers this               
year? How tall will the plants grow?                                            
                                                                                
You don't have to wait until next year for blossoms of holly-                   
hocks. Old-fashioned perennial holly-hocks are slow to develop,                 
but modern annual varieties bloom reliably the same year from                   
seed sown in late spring.                                                       
                                                                                
Hollyhock seeds are quite large, easy to handle, and sprout                     
easily. Don't automatically plant them in the back of other                     
flowers because some of the newer hollyhocks grow only 2 feet                   
tall and could be hidden by background flowers. Other modern                    
annual hollyhocks reach 3 to 4 feet in height so read the seed                  
packet or catalog descriptions carefully. For variety, look for                 
new colors in nearly every hue on the pastel palette plus deep                  
wine shades. There's lime-tinged cream, apricot, peach and plum,                
pristine white, lemon yellow and lavender-brushed pink shades.                  
                                                                                
 -------                                                                        
                                                                                
I am starting vegetables and flowers indoors for transplants this               
year. What is the best way to harden them off and exactly what                  
purpose does it serve?                                                          
                                                                                
Hardening is the process of altering the quality of plant growth                
to withstand the change in environmental conditions which occur                 
when plants are transferred from a greenhouse or home to the                    
garden. A severe check in growth may occur if plants produced in                
sheltered conditions are planted outdoors without a transition                  
period. A change from a soft, succulent type of growth to a                     
firmer, harder type is desired. Hardening is more critical with                 
early crops when adverse climatic conditions can be expected than               
it is for crops planted later in the season.                                    
                                                                                
Hardening can be accomplished by gradually lowering temperatures                
and relative humidity and reducing water. This procedure results                
in an accumulation of carbohydrates and a thickening of cell                    
walls.                                                                          
                                                                                
The hardening process should be started at least 2 weeks before                 
planting in the garden. If possible, plants should be moved to a                
45 to 50 degree temperature indoors or outdoors in a shady                      
location. A coldframe is excellent for this purpose. When put                   
outdoors, plants should be shaded then gradually moved into                     
sunlight. Each day, gradually increase the length of ex-                        
posure. Don't put tender seedlings outdoors on windy days or when               
temperatures are below 45 degrees F. Reduce the frequency of                    
watering to slow growth but don't allow plants to wilt.                         
                                                                                
Even cold hardy plants will be hurt if exposed to freezing                      
temperatures before they are hardened. After proper hardening,                  
however, they can be planted outdoors and light frosts will not                 
damage them.                                                                    
                                                                                
The hardening process is intended to slow plant growth. If                      
carried to the extreme of actually stopping plant growth,                       
significant damage can be done to certain crops. For example,                   
cauliflower will make thumb size heads and fail to develop                      
further if hardened too severely. Cucumbers and melons will stop                
growth if hardened.                                                             
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
What can I do with seedlings ready for garden planting when a                   
late cold snap threatens to freeze them if I plant anyway?                      
                                                                                
When the weather won't cooperate at planting-out time, seedlings                
may be stored in a cellar, porch or outbuilding kept at 35 to 40                
degrees F. If there is no natural light, use two 40 watt fluores-               
cent tubes 12" above the plants, 14 hours a day. Most flowers and               
vegetables can be stored at optimum transplanting size for two                  
weeks.                                                                          
                                                                                
 -------                                                                        
                                                                                
Is a soil thermometer a good investment for a gardener?                         
                                                                                
At low temperatures, many seeds will not germinate, and the                     
biological life of the soil which supplies nutrients and                        
maintains growth factors for the roots is largerly inactive. High               
temperatures halt root growth and can even kill the roots. At                   
both extremes, a soil thermometer can be a good investment as a                 
tool for soil temperature management along with appropriate                     
mulches.                                                                        
                                                                                
In spring, checking the soil temperature at 4" to 6" depth in                   
early afternoon tells you when to sow seed. The optimum for                     
germination of cool weather crops is 60 to 70 degrees; for warm                 
weather crops it is 70 to 80 degrees. Lettuce, onions, and                      
spinach will germinate at soil temperatures as low as 35 degrees;               
beets, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, parsley, peas, radishes,                  
Swiss chard, and turnips as low as 40 degrees; corn and tomatoes                
at 50 degrees; and beans, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, okra,                    
peppers, and squash at 60 degrees. Raising the soil temperature                 
even a few degrees above these minimums with a plastic mulch                    
will speed germination and growth.                                              
                                                                                
Black plastic mulch raises soil temperature 6 to 8 degrees, clear               
plastic can raise it 20 degrees or more. Too high a rise might                  
push seedling growth too much, so most gardeners use the black                  
plastic.                                                                        
                                                                                
A cooling organic mulch 2 to 4 inches thick should replace the                  
plastic mulch when the soil temperatures reach 75 degrees. Hay,                 
straw or grass clippings will lower soil temperature as much as                 
12 degrees, shredded leaves up to 18 degrees.                                   
                                                                                
Research with nursery, greenhouse and farm crops has shown that                 
soil temperature is often more important to growth than air                     
temperature. For vegetables the root-zone temperature is so                     
critical at certain seasons that manipulating the soil tempera-                 
ture can make a vegetable plot up to 20% more productive.                       
                                                                                
 --------                                                                       
                                                                                
Could you please suggest some new or unusual edging plants for                  
beds and borders? I'd like something besides ageratum or zinnia.                
                                                                                
For edging beds, borders, walks and patios, some annuals are                    
standbys: ageratum, sweet alyssum, marigolds, petunias, lobelia,                
verbena, dianthus, lilliput zinnias. But in recent years quite a                
few of the more uncommon annuals have been used for edging, often               
with very pleasing effect.                                                      
                                                                                
Meadowfoam, (Limnanthes douglasii), grows to 6" to 10", and bears               
starry bright gold blooms, with white tips. Flowers are produced                
in great abundance in early spring on dense feathery-leaved                     
plants. Meadowfoam forms a fine carpet and will self-sow if the                 
ground is not disturbed in the fall. It does best on moist soil.                
                                                                                
Toad Flax, (Linaria maroccana), is really unusual. Blooming to                  
the very end of the season, it bears snapdragon-like white, pink,               
red or purple flowers on 8" plants. They are difficult to                       
transplant and should be sown in place. They perform best where                 
nights are cool.                                                                
                                                                                
Lychnis viscaria, 'Blue Angel' and 'Rose Angel' produce their                   
azure-blue or rose flowers profusely through the summer. The pink               
'Love' and magenta 'Maggie May' are also heavy flowering. These                 
hardy perennials should be started from seed in full sun.                       
                                                                                
The flowers of feverfew, (Matricaria eximea), resemble miniature                
cushion mums. They are produced lavishly on 6-10 inch mounded                   
plants. Feverfew blooms in shades of white and yellow. These                    
tender perennials should be grown in full sun. To attain the                    
longest flowering season they should be started indoors early in                
the season.                                                                     
                                                                                
Nierembergia 'Purple Robe' is dense and compact plant which grows               
6 inches tall. It bears violet-blue flowers that do not fade in                 
the heat. These grow up to 2 inches across and bloom constantly                 
through the fall provided you keep cutting the dead flowers off.                
Grow in full sun in rich, moist soil.                                           
                                                                                
For hot sun and dry soil, the California Bluebell, (Phacelia                    
campanualaria), is an ideal choice. This native of the California               
desert grows to 9 inches and bears pure gentian-blue bell flowers               
with prominent white anthers. Sow seeds of this annual where                    
plants are to grow in full sun.                                                 
                                                                                
____________                                                                    
                                                                                
Are nasturtiums easy to grow? I would like to try them in my                    
edible landscape plan.                                                          
                                                                                
Useful for bedding, containers, and fences, nasturtiums have                    
sweet fragrances, withstand drought, and are among the easiest of               
all annuals to grow. Nasturtiums require full sun and well                      
drained, infertile soil. Too much nitrogen results in lush                      
foliage and few flowers.                                                        
                                                                                
Seed can be started in peat pots in winter for very early bloom,                
and cuttings taken before frost will provide blooming plants                    
indoors all winter. They rate high as edible ornamentals; the                   
leaves, flowers and even seeds being valuable in the kitchen.                   
Nasturtium leaves are rich in vitamin C and iron, and both the                  
flowers and watercress-flavored leaves are excellent in salads.                 
Pickled nasturtium seeds are a fine substitute for capers.                      
                                                                                
There are nasturtium varieties for every purpose. Semi-double                   
flowered dwarf Jewel series is offered in separate gold, mahagony               
and scarlet colors, or in a mix that includes many shades of                    
cream, orange, and red. Similar in color range and size is the                  
bright single-flowered Whirlybird group. For hanging baskets,                   
beds, or wall-stump-fence coverings, the 24" Gleam varieties grow               
semi-trailing and have large semi-double blooms. The                            
old-fashioned climbers, which grow 6' to 8' long, have also been                
improved. All forms are available from major seedsmen.                          
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
May Notes                                                                       
                                                                                
* When you visit gardens and arboreta, take your camera and                     
note pad with you. Now is the time to plan for changes you will                 
make in your landscape to add spring glory.                                     
                                                                                
* Raised beds warm up faster in the spring, provide good drainag-               
e, help protect soil structure, and may be built at a height for                
working without bending. But they dry out faster so don't forget                
to water.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Don't be surprised if variegated hosta has green leaves when                  
grown in the sun. The best variegated color pattern is secured                  
on plants in a semi-shady location.                                             
                                                                                
* Grass clippings can be used as a mulch in flower beds and                     
vegetable gardens if allowed to dry well before use. Fresh, damp                
grass clippings will mat and may attract pests. Never use                       
clippings from a lawn that has been treated with a herbicide.                   
                                                                                
* Put your tools away at the end of the day; clean them and                     
hang them up, if possible. Keep the cutting edge sharp for easier               
use.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Don't spray on a windy day. Not only is pesticide wasted,                     
it may endanger other crops or you.                                             
                                                                                
* Recycle your kitchen scraps in a compost trench to avoid                      
attracting birds or animals to your compost pile. Dig the trench                
between garden rows, covering each addition with garden soil. The               
material will enrich your soil as it breaks down.                               
                                                                                
* Four to five layers of newspaper will serve as an effective                   
mulch in the garden. Cover with sawdust or soil to reduce the                   
white glare and prevent it from blowing away.                                   
                                                                                
* Frequent picking of cucumbers, summer squash, beans, peas,                    
lettuce, and greens while they are small and tender will improve                
the quality of the produce and increase the yield of each plant.                
                                                                                
* Trellis and stake downwind from the prevailing winds so plants                
will lean against the supports when the wind is blowing.                        
                                                                                
* Drive stakes when you plant tomatoes or cucumbers. If you                     
try to install stakes later, you may damage the plant roots. Tie                
the plants with a soft material such as stockings or worn bed                   
sheets which will not cut into the stems.                                       
                                                                                
* Sprinkle seeds evenly by putting them in a small shaker. A                    
set of caps for seed sprouting jars will let you choose one                     
with appropriate-sized holes for the seeds you use. The problem                 
of sowing fine seed too thickly can be reduced by mixing them                   
with sand.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Stay out of the garden when foilage is wet. Walking through                   
a wet garden spreads disease from one plant to another.                         
                                                                                
* Moles feed on white grubs and in their feeding ruin the                       
lawn. Moles can be eliminated by eliminating the grubs. Consult                 
your extension service for current recommendations.                             
                                                                                
* Newly set plants should be protected from cutworms with                       
collars.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Flea beetles can severely damage newly set plants. Protect                    
plants with carbaryl as soon as these small shiny, black, hopping               
insects are noted.                                                              
                                                                                
* Move your house plants outdoors when the night temperatures                   
stay above 60 degrees. Avoid sun burning the foliage by moving                  
the plants gradually from the relative darkness of the house                    
to their summer location. Start by putting them in a well-shaded                
location and progressing to increasingly lighted areas.                         
                                                                                
* After planting seed from this year's packets, store leftovers                 
in a tightly sealed jar in the refrigerator. Add a dessicant                    
such as a layer of tissues in which 2 tablespoons of powdered                   
milk have been wrapped to absorb excess moisture from the air.                  
                                                                                
* A fern that is exceptionally tolerant of the dry air of the                   
home is the mother fern (Asplenium bulbiferum) so-called because                
it produces plantlets on its fronds. It does well at 30% humidit-               
y. For homes with 50% humidity, button ferns (Pellaea rotundi-                  
folia) are an excellent choice.                                                 
                                                                                
* Amaranth is an excellent substitute for cooked spinach accordi-               
ng to USDA tests. It does best in midsummer heat and harvestable                
leaves are produced in just 30 days from sowing.                                
                                                                                
* When planting shrubs on a steep slope, be sure to mulch or                    
use an erosion control netting if grasses or ground covers are                  
not already present. Digging planting holes and watering the                    
new plants will result in erosion problems on bare soil.                        
                                                                                
* Don't overwater your lawn this summer. Too much water leaches                 
out nitrogen, encourages a number of weeds and brings on disease                
problems.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Gladiola bulbs may be planted now.                                            
                                                                                
* Set out marigolds, petunias, ageratums and fiberous begonias.                 
All are good border plants.                                                     
                                                                                
* Prune forsythia, lilacs and other spring flowering shrubs                     
immediately after bloom.                                                        
                                                                                
* Deep transplanting is good for tomatoes. Tomato plants can be                 
set so deep in the ground that only a little tuft of leaves shows               
above the surface, after removing all leaves that would be                      
under the soil. New roots will sprout along the stem. Don't try                 
deep transplanting with other vegetables or flowers.                            
                                                                                
* When planting large-seeded lima or butter bean seed in heavy                  
soils, it may help germination to plant the seed on edge, facili-               
tating the emergence of the large cotyledons or seed leaves. On                 
light sandy soil, this is of dubious value because such soil                    
offers little resistance to sprouts.                                            
                                                                                
* When thinning beans, watch for "Snake Heads", seedlings which                 
have lost one or both of their cotyledons and produce poor weak                 
sprouts and "Bald Heads", seedlings which have the growth point                 
damaged so severely that they can't develop. Both types of                      
seedlings will be weak and delayed in growth and should be                      
removed.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Plant ground cover under shade trees that don't allow enough                  
sunlight to sustain grass. Periwinkle, English ivy, and liriope                 
are a few ground cover plants that grow well in shade.                          
                                                                                
* Consider planting some ornamental gourds in the garden this                   
year. After harvest in the fall, wash and dry thoroughly and                    
paint with clear shellac. Place in a basket or bowl and you'll                  
have an attractive centerpiece for Thanksgiving.                                
                                                                                
* Poison ivy leaves vary in shape and grow in threes. It is                     
dangerous all year round as you can get an irritation from the                  
leaves, roots, berries, and even smoke from burning the vines.                  
Learn to know the leaves, so you may guard against it. If you                   
think you may have come in contact with it, wash immediately with               
soap and water and remove any clothes that may have the oil on                  
them. Prevention is the best medicine for this ailment.                         
                                                                                
* Water newly planted trees and shrubs unless there is considera-               
ble rainfall. Mulch to conserve moisture and control weeds.                     
                                                                                
* Pinch back annuals which need to be trained for bushiness when                
4 to 6 inches high. Some of these are zinnias, petunias and                     
salvia.                                                                         
                                                                                
* When you remodel the kitchen, save a section of the old cabinet               
and use for a potting bench. It provides a comfortable working                  
height and storage below for pots, media, tools, etc.                           
                                                                                
* Set petunia plants among the fading tulips to offset the                      
unsightly wilting leaves. You can tie leaves in gentle knots to                 
hide them, but don't cut the tulip leaves until they have dried                 
completely.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Introducing your children to gardening can be a rewarding                     
experience for the entire family. Give them a small plot of                     
their own with full sun, good soil and drainage. Geraniums and                  
begonias from pots are easy for little hands to handle and                      
marigolds, radishes, and favorite vegetables can be added. It's                 
a pleasant and productive way to spend time together.                           
                                                                                
* 35 of the 39 snakes found in Virginia are beneficial to the                   
farmer and gardener. They eat insects and rodents. Of particul-                 
ar value is the large black rat snake, which consumes mice, rats,               
and other small mammals.                                                        
                                                                                
* Avoid using peat moss as a mulch. It tends to form a tight mat,               
virtually impermeable to light rain once it becomes dry. It is                  
best mixed in with soil as a conditioner.                                       
                                                                                
* Impatiens is the most satisfactory annual for use in shade.                   
Begonia, coleus, ageratum, salvia, and vinca prefer light shade                 
(5 to 6 hours of sunlight).                                                     
                                                                                
* Remember, insecticides such as Malathion cannot be used as                    
preventatives, but are only effective if they come in contact                   
with the insect. Use all pesticides with caution. Always read and               
follow the directions on the label.                                             
                                                                                
* Houseplants in containers without drainage holes are poor                     
candidates for outside. A good rainstorm may drown and rot them.                
All plants perform better in containers with drainage holes.                    
                                                                                
* Vacation hint:  Sink houseplants, pots and all, in the soil in                
a shady area of the garden. Mulch to reduce the need for frequent               
watering.                                                                       
                                                                                
* If you are building a home on a wooded lot, save young,                       
vigorous trees. They will adapt to changes in their environment                 
better than older trees. Trees that once grew in shade and are                  
suddenly exposed to increased sunlight, wider temperature                       
fluctuations and drying winds may not survive.                                  
                                                                                
* Red and silver maples, willows, poplars and elms often clog                   
septic lines. Plant these species well away from waterlines and                 
sewers.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Lace bugs, tiny fly-like insects with lacy wings, weaken                      
rhododendrons, azaleas and mountain laurel by sucking out                       
cellular fluids. Since these insects prefer hot, dry conditions,                
plants grown in semishade are less susceptible.                                 
                                                                                
* Large plate glass windows are apparently invisible to birds.                  
Hang small mobile twists of reflective ribbon or hanging baskets                
in front of the glass to prevent crashes.                                       
                                                                                
* Most evergreens have many roots near the soil surface. Avoid                  
deep cultivation that might wound roots.                                        
                                                                                
* If an old tree shows signs of advanced rotting, remove it                     
before it becomes a safety hazard.                                              
                                                                                
* Algae and lichens are primitive plants which grow nearly                      
anywhere there is adequate moisture. Although they are often                    
found growing on tree trunks, algae and lichens generally do not                
harm trees; often they indicate stressful conditions such as soil               
compaction, poor drainage or insufficient fertilizer.                           
                                                                                
* Divide indoor plants when new growth starts in spring. Root                   
cuttings during spring and summer when the plant is actively                    
growing.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Watering with soaker hoses or drip irrigation will deter the                  
spread of black spot in roses.                                                  
                                                                                
* Where earwigs and sowbugs are a problem, try trapping them with               
rolled up newspapers which have been moistened with water. The                  
insects will hide in the papers by day. Gather up the traps and                 
dispose of them frequently.                                                     
                                                                                
* To better evaluate your gardening successes, keep weather                     
records along with garden records. The most important items to                  
report are daily minimum and maximum temperatures, precipitation                
and cloud cover, and frost occurrences.                                         
                                                                                
* A rain gauge can be constructed from a large can and a plastic                
straw. Mark the straw in inches and fractions. After removing the               
lid from the can, set it out to collect rainfall. After a                       
rain, insert the straw to the bottom of the can and put your                    
finger over the opening. Withdraw the straw and hold it up to the               
light to read the amount of rainfall.                                           
                                                                                
* In clay soils, improve drainage for trees by planting on the                  
"high side."  Build up the area around the rootball with good                   
draining soil. Alternately lay draintile from the bottom of the                 
planting hole to a ditch or gravel drain constructed below the                  
planting hole.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Thin peaches four to six inches apart for large, high quality                 
fruit.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Lawns maintained at the correct height resist disease and weed                
infestation. Kentucky blueglass and tall fescue should be kept                  
between 2-3" in height. Mow frequently removing one third of the                
blade at each cutting.                                                          
                                                                                
* Creeping red fescue may be used for turf in shady, drought                    
prone areas. Keep this grass at 2 - 2 1/2 inches in height.                     
                                                                                
* Plan vegetable gardens with nutrition in mind. Compare the                    
nutritional values of your crops with the amount of space                       
allotted them. For example, your family will get more vitamins                  
and minerals from a block of spinach than from an equal amount of               
lettuce.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Lettuce, tomatoes, beans and peas are self-pollinating annual                 
vegetables from which seed can be easily saved. Make sure the                   
plants are open-pollinated (not hybrids) or next year's plants                  
will not likely grow like the parent plants. Write the Virginia                 
Gardener or your extension agent to request publication 426-316                 
for seed saving tips.                                                           
                                                                                
* Toads eat cutworms and other insect pests. Give them a home in                
your garden by placing inverted clay flower pots in shady spots.                
Make sure to chip out a piece of the pot rim to give the toads an               
entrance to their home.                                                         
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
May 1986 Press Releases                                                         
                                                                                
Identifying Pests                                 66 lines                      
Flowering Tobacco                                 38 lines                      
Summer Blooming Perennials                        79 lines                      
Trellis for Efficiency                            54 lines                      
Protecting Shade Trees from Construction Damage   64 lines                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Identifying Pests                                                               
                                                                                
A variety of insects live in home vegetable gardens in the                      
state. Although some are beneficial, such as lady bug beetles,                  
and praying mantis, many cause damage and  frustration to the                   
gardeners  as they attempt to get rid of them.                                  
                                                                                
Chemical insect controls are most effective when the correct                    
insecticide is applied properly to the insect it was meant to                   
control. Gardeners need to be able to identify the insects. Here                
is a description of some of the most common garden pests to help                
in identification:                                                              
                                                                                
Aphids or plant lice are small, soft-bodied sucking insects                     
usually found in large numbers on the undersides of many vege-                  
table plant leaves. They vary from gray to green, brown, yellow                 
or black in color. As the aphid sucks the juices from the plant,                
curling, wilting or even stunting may occur.                                    
                                                                                
Striped and spotted cucumber beetles feed on cucumber, squash,                  
melon, and related plants. The beetles first attack more mature                 
plants. Beetles may carry bacterial wilt disease which often                    
causes the plant's death. Both beetles are yellow and under 1/2"                
in length; one has black stripes, the other black spots. Late in                
the season, beetles may be found inside blossoms.                               
                                                                                
The cutworm is a familiar sight; it rolls up into a "ball" when                 
disturbed. Its damage is most conspicuous when young plants are                 
cut off at the soil surface. Weedy gardens tend to add to cutworm               
problems. The caterpillars, the larvae of night flying moths,                   
vary in color-green to brown to black and generally are soft-                   
bodied, smooth and cylindrical.                                                 
                                                                                
Although the Mexican bean beetle resembles one of the helpful                   
lady beetles, it is not beneficial. These yellowish to copper                   
colored beetles with black spots can be found on beans along with               
their fuzzy yellow larvae. The primary symptom is skeletonization               
of the leaves; however, the insects will attack young pods and                  
stems if the leaves are tough or already have been destroyed.                   
                                                                                
Colorado potato beetles defoliate potatoes, eggplants and                       
tomatoes. The beetles feed first on tender foliage. After                       
mating, females lay masses of yellow eggs on the undersides of                  
leaves. The larvae are brick red in color and have a slug-like                  
appearance. They also feed on the leaves, often leaving nothing                 
but a bare stalk.                                                               
                                                                                
The tomato hornworm is a large green caterpillar with white                     
markings. The hornworm has a spike-like projection on one of the                
last abdominal segments, hence its name. The tomato hornworm                    
feeds on tomato leaves and green fruit, causing early defoliation               
and deformed fruit. Many times gardeners see a hornworm with a                  
number of white projections on its back. These are the cocoons of               
a small parasitic wasp that is part of the natural control                      
complex for caterpillars, such as the hornworms. Hornworms with                 
cocoons on them should be left in the garden. The insect is                     
already declining and the wasps which hatch can control other                   
caterpillars.                                                                   
                                                                                
Cabbage loopers often go unoticed because their coloring is                     
similar to that of their host plants. They feed on cabbage and                  
related crops, including broccoli, cauliflower and kale. These                  
green worms first feed on the outer leaves, but gradually work                  
their way to the inner parts of the plant. A person may have                    
been surprised to find one or two in the water after cooking a                  
head of broccoli.                                                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
Flowering Tobacco                                                               
                                                                                
Plant breeders look for garden flowers that will stay in bloom                  
for several weeks despite summer heat and humidity. They have a                 
good prospect in the dwarf, day-blooming, fragrant nicotiana.                   
The old style tall flowering tobacco was treasured for its                      
evening frangrance but it didn't have a great deal else to                      
offer. Tall spikes of flowers remained closed until dusk and the                
colors were rather muddy. The spindly spikes could be wrecked by                
wind and rain.                                                                  
                                                                                
New dwarf nicotianas grow to a height of only 15 to 18 inches,                  
branch at the base to form multiple flower spikes and are day                   
blooming. Their delectable fragrance, is noticeable from several                
feet away on calm, humid days. If there are hummingbirds anywhere               
in the neighborhood, they'll be visiting the nicotiana.                         
                                                                                
So many of the tubular, starpointed blossoms are borne on each                  
plant that the breeders have had to select for a "self cleaning"                
habit. Spent blossoms of the new varieties are shaken off by the                
gentlest breeze.                                                                
                                                                                
Rain or shine, the color impact of nicotianas is extraoridinary;                
weather that fades, beats down, or blemishes other summer flowers               
fazes the new nicotianas little. Dwarf nicotianas bloom early and               
continue blooming all summer long. Rosy pink, deep rose, white                  
and crimson colors are available.                                               
                                                                                
Despite its tiny seeds, nicotiana is easy to grow from seed if                  
sown in warm soil in the garden. Make a short "nursery row",                    
water it thoroughly and top with a shallow layer of potting soil.               
Do not cover the seeds; they need light to sprout. Sprinkle                     
daily with a fine mist. If necessary, transplant the seedlings                  
while they are small; they recover quickly.                                     
                                                                                
Nicotianas prefer full sun but will tolerate light shade. Plant                 
them behind brightly colored low growing flowers, around trees                  
or shrubs, or in medium sized containers.                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
Summer Blooming Perennials                                                      
                                                                                
Daylilies                                                                       
                                                                                
The bright orange daylily that blooms along roads and on rail                   
road banks is a showy summer perennial. Plant breeders have                     
"tamed" or "changed" the color, and your garden may have yellow,                
orange, maroon, or pinkish daylilies. Many nursery gardeners grow               
only daylilies. A single mature plant may have over 50 blossoms                 
and by choosing only four of the many varieities, you can have                  
blooms all summer.                                                              
                                                                                
Divide large daylily clumps as soon as they have finished                       
blooming. They like full sun or partial shade, but are content                  
with only four hours of sunlight a day. Some daylilies grown                    
only 2 feet tall; others show their flowers on 4 foot stems.                    
Select a variety whose height and color fit into your border                    
plan. Plant them in large clumps next to shrubbery or wherever                  
you need lots of green foliage. Daylilies grow in practically all               
types of soil, but bloom more if you mix organic matter or                      
compost into the soil when you plant them.                                      
                                                                                
Gaillardia                                                                      
                                                                                
Gaillardia, also known as blanketflower, has blooms of rich                     
yellow with red centers. The cut flowers keep well and can be                   
used for corsages.                                                              
                                                                                
Gaillardia is easily divided in the spring and thrives in any                   
soil except heavy clay. Since it blooms from June until after                   
killing frosts, it can be planted in front of iris for a nice                   
display. The many soft, hairy leaves tend to hide the iris after                
it has finished blooming. With a height of up to 3 feet, gaillar-               
dia can be planted in the middle of the flower border. A low-                   
growing form under 1' in height is now available.                               
                                                                                
Coreopsis                                                                       
                                                                                
Coreopsis is a popular yellow daisylike flower, sometimes called                
tickseed. Coreopsis blooms from June until frost. The leaves are                
narrow and light green, and the yellow flowers are from 2 to 3                  
inches across. The flowers are on long, graceful stems, making                  
them attractive for indoor use. Continual removal of the faded                  
flowers before seeds form assures a supply of coreopsis blooms                  
all summer.                                                                     
                                                                                
It is best to divide the old, crowded plants in early spring and                
to reset them about 3 feet apart. All coreopsis asks is plenty of               
sunlight and good soil.                                                         
                                                                                
Shasta Daisy                                                                    
                                                                                
Shasta daisy is a friendly neighbor for coreopsis. It, too, has                 
daisylike flowers and blooms freely, giving many blossoms that                  
fit into any summer flower arrangement. Shasta daisy is related                 
to fall mums; new varieties are double and look much like                       
chrysanthemums.                                                                 
                                                                                
Sun and good soil keep shasta daisies content. Divide crowded                   
plants in early spring and reset them near the middle of the                    
flower border since the plants grow to a height of about 2 feet.                
Bugs and diseases seldom bother shasta daisies.                                 
                                                                                
Phlox                                                                           
                                                                                
Phlox means flame in Greek. No doubt the bright red heads of                    
the standard variety are the reason for its name. Phlox is found                
in many perennial gardens, probably because the large clusters of               
showy flowers come in many colors, and cultivars vary in height                 
and time of bloom. A planting with colors graded from light                     
pink to dark red is most striking. The blooms can also be used                  
for cut flowers.                                                                
                                                                                
Phlox is best planted in groups in beds along driveways and paths               
and in front of shrubbery. They are hungry plants and need plenty               
of moisture and good rich soil. If set too close together, phlox                
may be attacked by mildew. Spray any mildewed plants with                       
fungicide. If necessary, divide phlox in September and reset the                
outer sections of the old plants.                                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
Trellis for Efficiency                                                          
                                                                                
One of the surest ways to increase the efficiency of your garden                
space is by growing highly productive vining crops and maintaini-               
ng them on a trellis.                                                           
                                                                                
Some vines climb by spiraling around supports and twining around                
any object small enough to embrace. Others have short tendrils                  
that cling to supports and, if trained occasionally, will grow                  
up alongside a post or within a cage. Others are so heavy and                   
have so few tendrils that they need frequent training; if left                  
to their own devices, they would lie about on the ground.                       
                                                                                
The climbing habits of a vine determine the kind of support                     
needed. Climbers or twiners include pole or runner beans,                       
asparagus beans and most of the flowering vines. Clingers                       
include tall varieties of green peas, gourds, and sweet peas. The               
heavy vining vegetables are cantaloupe, pumpkin, squash and                     
watermelon.                                                                     
                                                                                
The simplest and least expensive support for twining vines is a                 
6 to 7 foot high frame. Provide top and bottom stringers of                     
heavy guage wire or crossbars of lumber. Lace strong twine                      
vertically and train the tendrils as soon as they are long                      
enough to twine around two or three times. Only occasional                      
training will be needed to assist wayward tendrils the rest of                  
the season.                                                                     
                                                                                
Clinging vines can get by with shorter supports, five to six feet               
in height. Disposable netting stretched over a vertical frame                   
works very well and requires less maintenance than chicken wire.                
                                                                                
Semi-permanent trellises with sturdy posts and crossbars or wire                
stringers placed every foot or so are needed for heavy fruited                  
vines. Any wood used on semi-permanent trellisses should be                     
construction grade salt-treated lumber. Gardeners with untreated                
lumber on hand can treat their wood with copper napthenate, a                   
preservative that is not toxic to plants.                                       
                                                                                
Although trellising may be more work initially than growing the                 
bush varieities, the advantages make it ultimately worthwhile.                  
The yield per square foot is much higher than that of bush                      
varieties, sometimes as much as double. Many vining varieties                   
yield up to 4 weeks longer than bush varieties eliminating the                  
need to replant for fall harvest. The produce is easier to                      
harvest, especially for someone who finds kneeling and stooping a               
challange.                                                                      
                                                                                
Since foliage dries out faster with the good air circulation                    
around a trellised crop, disease is less of a problem. When                     
spraying or dusting does become necessary, it is easier to                      
thoroughly cover both sides of the leaf. And as a final benefit,                
you don't have to watch where you put your feet as you make your                
way through the garden.                                                         
Protecting Shade Trees from Construction Damage                                 
                                                                                
Nearly everyone recognizes the value of trees in providing                      
shade, ornament, and protection to building sites, city streets,                
and roadsides. All too frequently, however, the trees that make                 
a site attractive are damaged or killed during construction work                
by carelessness or inadequate protection. Frequently, it is                     
possible to repair such damage or to restore a tree's health,                   
but it is always better and usually more econimcal to prevent                   
damage than to correct it. Before beginning actual construction,                
it is worthwhile to give careful thought to the protection of                   
trees on the site.                                                              
                                                                                
A basic way to lessen construction damage to trees is to reduce                 
traffic as much as possible around the construction site. Talk                  
this over with your contractor before construction begins.                      
Establish definite traffic patterns and fence off trees, if                     
necessary. Locate areas where soil and building materials are                   
stockpiled well away from the drip line of the trees you want to                
save.                                                                           
                                                                                
When you install temporary or permanent driveways or traffic                    
lanes, cut nearby tree roots cleanly. Cleanly cut roots will                    
heal better and new roots will develop. Sometimes it is necessary               
for traffic to pass temporarily near trees. In this case build a                
bridge to keep the weight of heavy vehicles off the soil. Place                 
railroad ties on the ground and place steel plates over the ties                
for a temporary equipment bridge.                                               
                                                                                
Cut-and-fill damage can injure trees just as much as compaction.                
The symptoms of the two problems are almost identical: early leaf               
drop in fall, twig die-back, and leaf dwarfing. In most cases,                  
injury and death occurs more rapidly from cut-and-fill damage.                  
Fill that covers the root system of a tree will smother it by                   
cutting off the air supply and, sometimes, the moisture that the                
tree must have to survive.                                                      
                                                                                
If you want to place fill dirt over existing root systems you                   
will need to install 4 to 6 inch standard agricultural field                    
drain tile in a pattern with 8 radials extending from 1 1/2 -2'                 
from the trunk to beyond the drip line. Cover the tile with 6 to                
8 inches of coarse 1/2 to 3 inch stone. Use creek gravel, not                   
crushed limestone which is commonly used for road work. Crushed                 
limestone can harm trees by raising the soil pH. The fill                       
soil should be porous as possible or amended with sand or                       
organic materials. Sandy soil permits much more natural drainage                
of air and water than clay, which packs more easily. Two or                     
three inches of sandy soil can be filled over a root system                     
without harming the tree, while 2 to 3 inches of clay soil                      
filled over a root system may kill the tree.                                    
                                                                                
Removing soil from underneath a tree canopy can seriously damage                
roots and may even impare the stability of the tree. If you need                
to lower the soil level near trees leave the largest possible                   
area at the original soil level. Build a retaining wall around                  
the undisturbed soil or gradually taper the soil level between                  
the different heights. Plant the exposed soil in grass or                       
groundcover to prevent erosion.                                                 
                                                                                
There are no shortcuts to tree protection. You may save time and                
avoid mistakes if you obtain competent assistance before you make               
plans for construction operations or before you treat trees that                
have suffered from widespread construction damage. Sometimes it                 
may be desirable to consult the extension service first.                        
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
May 1986 Virginia Gardener Question Box                                         
                                                                                
Care of Potted Geraniums                    22 lines                            
Hints for Novice Landscapers                20 lines                            
Fragrant Flowers                            19 lines                            
Avoid Soil Damage                           14 lines                            
Thinning Fruit in the Home Orchard          60 lines                            
Interplanting in the Vegetable Garden       44 lines                            
Reducing Water Needs in the Garden          38 lines                            
Trees to Avoid                              98 lines                            
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
I have been given a potted azalea. How should I care for it? Can                
I plant it outdoors in summer?                                                  
                                                                                
Indoor azaleas require full sunlight to remain healthy. A night                 
temperature of 60 degrees will prolong bloom. Keep the soil                     
constantly moist. If the leaves should turn yellow, the soil is                 
not acid enough. Use an acid fertilizer sold especially for                     
azaleas. Do not use softened water as it may have too high                      
pH. When repotting, use a mixture high in acid peat moss.                       
                                                                                
Azaleas can be planted, pot and all, in a shady spot in the                     
garden during the summer months. Examine them frequently and keep               
them watered during dry periods. Greenhouse azaleas are not                     
hardy, and need to be brought indoors before freezing weather.                  
                                                                                
Azaleas need a cool rest treatment before they are forced into                  
bloom. Place the plants in a room with a temperature between                    
35-50 degrees F and filtered light. During this rest period,                    
flower buds will develop. Then place in a well lighted warm (65                 
F) room around January 1 and the plant will bloom. Unless you                   
have the proper growing conditions for the azalea, you should not               
attempt to carry the plants over.                                               
                                                                                
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Our family (two adults, two young children) has just moved into                 
our first home. We will be planting the yard ourselves to save                  
money. What hints do you have for novice landscapers?                           
                                                                                
A sucessful landscape should be able to age and mature with a                   
family. Don't plan a landscape whose use will remain static                     
because it will not function as a family's needs change. A plan                 
for a very young family calls for inexpensive plantings. There                  
should be open areas in which children and pets can play. As a                  
family reaches its middle years, more extensive and expensive                   
plantings can be put in. The children's play area can serve other               
functions; for example, a sand box area can be converted into a                 
lily pool. As the children grow up they require less play area                  
and less parental supervision; providing both a place and time                  
for more sophisticated landscaping. With the approach of retire-                
ment years, the landscape should become one of low maintenance.                 
Mature trees and shrubs will carry the landscape theme. High                    
labor areas such as flower beds should be minimized. Ramps and                  
walks may replace steps.                                                        
                                                                                
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What I enjoy best about a garden are the sweet scents. Please                   
give me some suggestions for fragrant flowers.                                  
                                                                                
Gardens appeal to several of our senses: touch and smell as well                
as sight. The following list contains flowers noted for their                   
pleasant fragance.                                                              
                                                                                
Fragrant annuals: Alyssum, Nicotiana (flowering tobacco),                       
Dianthus (pinks), Stock, Heliotrope, Petunias, Mignonette (herb),               
Phlox, Nasturtiums, Sweet peas.                                                 
                                                                                
Fragrant perennials: Southernwood, Lily-of-the-Valley, Dianthus                 
plumarius (Grass Pink), Dictamnus albus (Dittany or Gas Plant),                 
Galium odoratum (Sweet woodruff), Hesperis matronalis (Sweet                    
Rocket), Hosta plantaginea grandiflora (Funkia or Big Plantain                  
Lily), Heliotropium arborescens, Monarda didyma (Bee Balm),                     
Peony, Phlox paniculata (Phlox), Rose species, Valeriana officin-               
alis (Common Valerian), Viola cornuta (Tufted Pansy, Horned                     
violet), Viola odorata (Sweet Violet), Lavandula vera (True                     
Lavender).                                                                      
                                                                                
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When does cultivating or hoeing the garden damage the soil the                  
least?                                                                          
                                                                                
Cultivation is best done when the soil is somewhat moist, but not               
wet. Working wet soil will change the structure, especially in                  
heavy soils. When it is too dry, weeds are difficult to pull and                
hoeing is also harder. A day or two after a rain or irrigation is               
probably the best time to cultivate. If you have a choice,                      
remember that the work will be much more pleasant in the cool                   
temperatures of early morning or evening. On hot summer after-                  
noons, you are likely to fatigue more easily, get a sunburn, or                 
suffer from sun poisoning, sunstroke or worse. Wear protective                  
clothing if you must work when it's hot, and stop frequently for                
rest and refreshment.                                                           
                                                                                
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Is thinning of peaches, plums and apples recommended in a home                  
orchard? If so, how do I do it quickly? Is there a chemical I                   
can use?                                                                        
                                                                                
Quite frequently, peach and apple trees set more fruit than                     
they can mature to a desirable size. By thinning (removing excess               
fruit), this difficulty can be overcome. Thinning not only allows               
for an increase in size of the remaining fruit on the tree, but                 
also improves fruit color and quality, reduces limb breakage, and               
promotes general tree vigor. Thinning induces regular annual                    
bearing in certain apple varieties, such as Golden Delicious,                   
Yellow Transparent, and York Imperial, which otherwise have a                   
tendency to bear heavy crops every other year. Perhaps one of the               
greatest benefits from thinning fruits is that it permits more                  
thorough spraying or dusting for effective disease and insect                   
control.                                                                        
                                                                                
Peach thinning is a standard practice in commercial orchards.                   
Experimental results indicate that the sooner peach trees are                   
thinned after bloom, the earlier the ripening and the larger                    
the fruits at harvest. It is doubtful that final size of the                    
fruits of any variety will be greatly increased by thinning                     
if it is delayed much after the pits begin to harden. It is                     
generally recommended that peaches be spaced 6 to 8" apart.                     
When thinning by hand, grasp the stem or branch firmly between                  
your thumb and forefinger and pull the fruit off with a quick                   
motion of the second and third fingers.                                         
                                                                                
Many growers use the pole method of thinning peaches. A 4 or 5'                 
section of bamboo or other light wood is used. A piece of 3/4"                  
garden or spray hose about 15" long is forced tightly onto the                  
end of the pole, leaving some 8 to 10" of the hose extending                    
beyond the end of the pole. A snug fit is necessary so the hose                 
will remain in place while being used.                                          
                                                                                
Many modifications of this tool are used. One of the most                       
common is a 30" section of plastic pipe, 1" in diameter. Remove                 
peaches by striking the limbs about 18" from their tips with the                
flexible part of the hose, using sharp, firm blows. This dislodg-               
es any loosely attached fruits. With a little practice, you                     
should be able to remove individual fruits by this method.                      
                                                                                
Apples should be thinned as soon as possible after the fruit                    
has set. If full benefits are to be obtained, thinning should                   
be completed within 20 to 25 days after full bloom. In hand-thin-               
ning apples, use the same general technique used in hand-thinning               
peaches. A distance of 6 to 10" between fruits is recommended.                  
With varieties of Delicious apples, where greater size of                       
individual fruits is important, the greater spacing is preferred.               
The center apple of a cluster is usually the largest and the best               
apple to leave.                                                                 
                                                                                
Thinning plums is usually limited to the large Japanese varie-                  
ties. The primary concern here is to facilitate insect and                      
disease control. Plums are usually thinned by hand to about 4"                  
apart.                                                                          
                                                                                
Chemical sprays are used by many commercial growers to thin                     
apples and peaches. If you wish to use them in your planting,                   
contact your local Extension Agent for recommendations.                         
                                                                                
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Twice now I have tried to cover a very visible slope in my yard                 
with groundcover plants; twice now I have failed, ending up with                
weeds. I need some pointers. These plants are expensive.                        
                                                                                
Selection of a ground cover will depend upon the area where it                  
will be used. Is it in sun, partially or deeply shaded?  Soil                   
conditions must be studied.  Some ground covers prefer a moist                  
soil, rich in organic matter while others will adapt to dry,                    
sandy situations.  Give consideration to color, texture, height                 
and habit as well, since some ground covers tend to grow rampant-               
ly.                                                                             
                                                                                
One problem that limits the use of ground covers is the cost of                 
installation since large numbers of small, individual plants are                
required. In addition, a well prepared planting bed is essential                
to the establishment of ground covers and can be costly and                     
time consuming.                                                                 
                                                                                
Significant maintenance is necessary for the first one to three                 
years or until the ground cover becomes established. They require               
cultivation to control weeds and other plant invaders; fertiliza-               
tion to encourage fast, vigorous growth to achieve good cover;                  
irrigation in times of dryness; and disease and pest control.                   
When these maintenance considerations are ignored, the progress                 
toward achieving a good ground cover planting is disappointing.                 
                                                                                
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Please explain  the word "interplanting" as used in gardening                   
magazines.                                                                      
                                                                                
Growing two or more types of vegetables in the same place at the                
same time is known as interplanting. Proper planning is essenti-                
al to obtain higher production and increased quality of the crops               
planted. This technique has been practiced for thousands of                     
years, but is just now gaining widespread support in this                       
country.                                                                        
                                                                                
To successfully plan an interplanted garden the following factors               
must be taken into account for each plant: the length of the                    
plant's growth period, its growth pattern (tall, short, below or                
above ground), possible negative effects on other plants (such as               
the allelopathic effects of sunflowers and Jerusalem artichokes                 
on nearby plants), preferred season, and light, nutrient and                    
moisture requirements.                                                          
                                                                                
Interplanting can be accomplished by alternating rows within a                  
bed (plant a row of peppers next to a row of onions), by mixing                 
plants within a row, or by distributing various species througho-               
ut the bed. For the beginner, alternating rows may be the easiest               
to manage at first.                                                             
                                                                                
Long season (slow maturing) and short season (quick maturing)                   
plants like carrots and radishes, respectively, can be planted at               
the same time. The radishes are harvested before they begin to                  
crowd the carrots. An example of combining growth patterns is                   
planting smaller plants close to larger plants, (radishes at the                
base of beans or broccoli). Shade tolerant species like lettuce,                
spinach, and celery may be planted in the shadow of taller crops.               
Heavy feeders, such as cabbage family crops, should be mixed with               
less gluttonous plants. Root, leaf, and soil-building crops                     
(legumes) may be mixed to take advantage of available nutrients.                
                                                                                
Interplanting can help keep insect and disease problems under                   
control. Pests are usually fairly crop-specific; that is, they                  
prefer vegetables of one type or family. Mixing families of                     
plants helps to break up large expanses of the pest-preferred                   
crop, helping to contain early pest damage within a small area,                 
thus giving the gardener a little more time to deal with the                    
problem. One disadvantage is that when it does come time to                     
spray for pests, it's harder to be sure that all plants are                     
protected.                                                                      
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
I have sandy soil in my garden. What do I do to keep from                       
having to water so often?                                                       
                                                                                
Addition of organic matter is the first step in improving                       
the moisture conditions in your garden. The moisture-holding                    
capacity of sandy soils is improved by additions of organic                     
matter. Though most soil water in sandy soil is available to                    
plants, it drains so quickly that plants are unable to reach                    
water after even a few days following a rain. Humus in sandy                    
soil gives the water something to cling to until it is needed by                
plants.                                                                         
                                                                                
Mulching is a cultural practice which can significantly decrease                
the amount of water that must be added to the soil. A 6-8"                      
organic mulch can reduce water needs by as much as 1/2 by                       
smothering annual weeds (which take up and transpire moisture)                  
and by reducing evaporation of moisture directly from the soil.                 
Organic mulches themselves hold some water and increase the                     
humidity level around the plant. Black plastic mulch also                       
conserves moisture but may increase soil temperatures drama-                    
tically during the summer (to the detriment of some plants and                  
the benefit of others) if not covered by other mulch materials or               
foliage.                                                                        
                                                                                
Shading and the use of windbreaks are other moisture-conserving                 
techniques. Plants that wilt in very sunny areas can benefit                    
from partial shade during the afternoon in summer. Small plants,                
in particular, should be protected. Air moving across a plant                   
carries away the moisture on the leaf surfaces, causing more                    
water to be needed by the plant. In very windy areas the roots                  
often cannot keep up with leaf demands, and plants wilt. Tempor-                
ary or permanent windbreaks can help tremendously.                              
                                                                                
During those times when cultural practices simply aren't enough,                
when rainfall is sparse and the sun is hot, watering can benefit                
your garden with higher yields, or may save the garden altogether               
in severe drought years.                                                        
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
Would it help my houseplants if I used the potting soil sold in                 
the stores? I've not had great luck with potted plants but I'd                  
hate to throw money away.                                                       
                                                                                
The potting soil or media in which a plant grows must be of good                
quality. It should be porous for root aeration and drainage but                 
also capable of water and nutrient retention. Most commercially                 
prepared mixes are termed artificial which means they contain no                
soil. High quality artificial mixes generally contain slow                      
release fertilizers which take care of a plant's nutritional                    
requirements for several months.                                                
                                                                                
Many commercial soil mixes are well formulated for plants grown                 
in containers. However there are also many cases in which the                   
potting soil is appropriate for pot plants, containing tii much                 
well decomposed organic material and very little drainage                       
material. If you have alot of plants and the space to do the                    
mixing you may save a few dollars and some headaches. If not,                   
you should purchase a small quanity of the potting soil to                      
determine its suitablity before making a large investment.                      
                                                                                
Most mixes contain a combination of organic matter, such as                     
peat moss or ground pine bark, and an inorganic material like,                  
washed sand, vermiculite or perlite. Materials commonly used for                
house plants are the peat-lite mixtures, consisting of peat moss                
and either vermiculite or perlite.                                              
                                                                                
The following materials will make two bushels of mix:                           
		1 bushel shredded peat moss                                                   
		2 bushels perlite or vermiculite                                              
		1/2 cup finely ground agricultural lime                                       
		1/3 cup 20% superphosphate                                                    
		1/2 cup 8-8-8 or similar analysis mixed fertilizer                            
		1 level teaspoon chelated iron                                                
                                                                                
Artificial mixtures are usually very low in trace or minor elem-                
ents, therefore, it is important to use a fertilizer that                       
contains these trace elements.                                                  
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
There are alot of weedy trees I would rather not plant. What                    
trees would you avoid in your yard?                                             
                                                                                
When selecting a tree to plant in your yard it is nice to know                  
exactly what you are getting. Many homeowners plant a sapling,                  
enjoy it for a few years, and then discover some serious disad-                 
vantages when the tree reaches an effective height.                             
                                                                                
Following is a list of trees which you should know something                    
about before you plant them in your yard:                                       
                                                                                
Acer negundo (Box Elder) This tree has weak wood, is short-                     
lived and is susceptible to box elder bugs.                                     
                                                                                
Acer saccharinum (Silver Maple) One of the worst trees available                
because of its brittle wood and tendency to become hollow and                   
hazardous. Its shallow surface roots can ruin sidewalks and                     
driveways, clog up septic systems, and prevent turfgrass growth.                
Also susceptible to insects.                                                    
                                                                                
Ailanthus altissima (Tree of Heaven) A weed tree that sprouts                   
up everywhere and has a disagreeable odor. It is outlawed in                    
some cities.                                                                    
                                                                                
Albizia julibrissin (Mimosa) Susceptible to Mimosa Wilt (root-                  
fungus) and has weak, fast growth.                                              
                                                                                
Betula papyrifera (White Clump Birch) Authorities say it isn't                  
likely to do well where the mean July temperature is above 70                   
degrees F. It is pretty but short-lived.                                        
                                                                                
Betula pendula (European White Birch) This birch is susceptible                 
to insects and much environmental stress.                                       
                                                                                
Catalpa sp. All Catalpas have messy flowers and seed pods.                      
                                                                                
Ginkgo biloba (Gingko) Do not plant the female Ginkgo. It's                     
fruits have a very offensive odor.                                              
                                                                                
Juglans nigra (Black Walnut) The tree roots produce a toxin that                
is harmful to certain other plants and anthracnose will defoliate               
it during August and September. The wood is valuable though.                    
                                                                                
Laburnum anagyroides (Golden Chain Tree) This tree is subject to                
much environmental stress.                                                      
                                                                                
Malus species (Crabapple) Most varieties are defoliated by scab                 
diseases every year. The fruits can be messy.                                   
                                                                                
Melia azedarach (Chinaberry) This tree has weak wood, seeds                     
that are a pest and many suckers.                                               
                                                                                
Morus species (Mulberry) Mulberries have messy fruit.                           
                                                                                
Paulownia tomentosa (Empress Tree) Its pretty flowers become                    
thousands of seeds which sprout everywhere.                                     
                                                                                
Platanus occidentalis (Sycamore) Leaves and seeds from this tree                
are messy; it has brittle wood and surface roots. Anthracnose, a                
late spring blight which occurs most years will attack it.                      
                                                                                
Populus species (Lombardy poplar, white or silver poplar, hybrid                
poplars, cottonwood) These trees have brittle wood and surface                  
root systems, but their main problem is that they are very                      
susceptible to canker diseases which disfigure and usually kill                 
them. Some also have messy flowers or send up suckers from their                
roots. The Lombardy poplar is very short-lived. Note that the                   
tulip poplar (or Yellow Poplar) is not a poplar, but rather a                   
magnolia. While it does have brittle wood, it is a pretty good                  
tree.                                                                           
                                                                                
Prunus serotina (Black Cherry) Has objectionable fruit; is                      
susceptible to insects and attracts many birds.                                 
                                                                                
Robinia pseudoacacia (Black Locust) It is good for fence posts                  
and firewood, but not for landscaping. It has brittle wood, is                  
susceptible to cankers, and leaf miners render it unattractive by               
summer.                                                                         
                                                                                
Salix species (Willows) These trees have very brittle wood and                  
are susceptible to canker diseases. Their roots will clog sewer                 
and drain pipes. Some are attractive on large lots.                             
                                                                                
Sorbus species (Mountain Ash) Does best in cool climates. Subject               
to damage from sawflies, borers, scale, and fire blight.                        
                                                                                
Ulmus americana (American Elm) Until Dutch elm disease can be                   
controlled, this long time favorite should not be planted.                      
                                                                                
Ulmus pumila (Siberian Elm) Its brittle wood will result in                     
severe damage in ice storms, and its seeds and suckering habit                  
make it a pest. Also very short-lived. Note that the Chinese elm                
(Ulmus parvifolia) is often confused with the Siberian Elm, but                 
is far superior.                                                                
                                                                                
Fruit trees (and fruit trees that only flower) These are often                  
subject to Japanese beetle infestation. Fruit trees require a                   
genuine commitment; don't try to get into them halfway.                         
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Monthly notes  for May 1987                                                     
                                                                                
Herbaceous plants                                                               
                                                                                
* To grow annuals in pots on the patio, use a light weight soil                 
mixture. Keep the plants well watered. Container grown plants dry               
out fast. Use liquid fertilizer every two weeks.                                
                                                                                
* Impatiens is the most satisfactory annual for use in shade.                   
Begonia, coleus, ageratum, salvia, and vinca prefer light shade                 
(5 to 6 hours of sunlight).                                                     
                                                                                
* Gladiolus bulbs may be planted now.                                           
                                                                                
* Set out marigolds, petunias, ageratums and fiberous begonias.                 
All are good border plants.                                                     
                                                                                
* Set petunia plants among the fading bulbs to offset the                       
unsightly wilting leaves. You can tie leaves in gentle knots to                 
hide them, but don't cut the leaves until they have dried                       
completely.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Remove crowded tulip bulbs and store in a dry, cool place over                
summer. Replant in autumn.                                                      
                                                                                
* Pinch back annuals which need to be trained for bushiness when                
4 to 6 inches high. Some of these are zinnias, petunias and                     
salvia.                                                                         
                                                                                
* In the past, begonias were recommended for areas of partial sun               
and full shade. Today "sunproof" varieties such as the Pizzazz,                 
Coco, Cocktail, and Calico Hybrid varieties do as well in full                  
sun as in shade. Take care to keep begonias planted in sunny,                   
moist locations.                                                                
                                                                                
Woody ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* Prune out winter-kill on trees and shrubs by cutting back to                  
green wood once new growth begins.                                              
                                                                                
* Watering with soaker hoses or drip irrigation will deter the                  
spread of black spot in roses.                                                  
                                                                                
* Plant ground cover under shade trees that don't allow enough                  
sunlight to sustain grass. Periwinkle, English ivy, and liriope                 
are a few ground cover plants that grow well in shade.                          
                                                                                
* Red and silver maples, willows, poplars and elms often clog                   
septic lines. Plant these species well away from waterlines and                 
sewers.                                                                         
                                                                                
* If you are building a home on a wooded lot, save young,                       
vigorous trees. They will adapt to changes in their environment                 
better than older trees. Trees that once grew in shade and are                  
suddenly exposed to increased sunlight, wider temperature                       
fluctuations and drying winds may not survive.                                  
* In clay soils, improve drainage for trees by planting on the                  
high side. Build up the area around the rootball with good                      
draining soil. Alternately lay draintile from the bottom of the                 
planting hole to a ditch or gravel drain constructed below the                  
planting hole.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Water newly planted trees and shrubs the first year or two to                 
establish a good root system. They need at least one inch of                    
water each week. Soak deeply never water lightly. Mulch to                      
conserve moisture and control weeds.                                            
                                                                                
* If an old tree shows signs of advanced rotting, remove it                     
before it becomes a safety hazard.                                              
                                                                                
* Don't be surprised if variegated hosta has green leaves when                  
grown in the sun. The best variegated color pattern is secured on               
plants in a semi-shady location.                                                
                                                                                
* Mulch around newly planted trees and shrubs. This reduces                     
weeds, reduces fluctuations in soil temperature, retains mois-                  
ture, prevents lawn mower damage to the trunks, and looks neat                  
and orderly.                                                                    
                                                                                
* When planting shrubs on a steep slope, be sure to mulch or use                
an erosion control netting if grasses or ground covers are not                  
already present. Digging planting holes and watering the new                    
plants will result in erosion problems on bare soil.                            
                                                                                
* Poison ivy leaves vary in shape and grow in threes. It is                     
dangerous all year round as you can get an irritation from the                  
leaves, roots, berries, and even smoke from burning the vines.                  
Learn to know the leaves, so you may guard against it. If you                   
think you may have come in contact with it, wash immediately with               
soap and water and remove any clothes that may have the oil on                  
them. Prevention is the best medicine.                                          
                                                                                
* Most evergreens have many roots near the soil surface. Avoid                  
deep cultivation that might wound roots.                                        
                                                                                
Landscape                                                                       
                                                                                
* Save some money on mulch materials by using 4 inches of wood                  
chips before spreading 2 inches of decorative shredded bark. Wood               
chips are less expensive than shredded bark and last longer too.                
Take care to keep deep mulch at least 6 inches away from the                    
trunks of trees and shrubs.                                                     
                                                                                
* Raised beds warm up faster in the spring, provide good                        
drainage, help protect soil structure, and may be built at a                    
height for working without bending. They also dry out faster so                 
don't forget to water.                                                          
                                                                                
* When you visit any formal gardens be sure to take your camera                 
and note pad with you. It is a good time to plan for changes you                
will make in your landscape.                                                    
                                                                                
* For maximum landscape interest in a small space, try vines.                   
They can disguise ugly walls and enliven fences. When trellised,                
they create shade and privacy while hiding undesirable views.Con-               
sider these annual vines which can be started indoors or sown                   
outside after the last frost date: morning glory and its relative               
cardinal climber (Ipomoea sp.); canary creeper (Tropaeolum sp.)                 
can be grown in mountainous areas. For edible ornamentals use                   
scarlet-runner beans and balsam pear or Chinese bitter melon                    
(Momordica sp.).                                                                
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
* Lawns maintained at the correct height resist disease and weed                
infestation. Kentucky blueglass and tall fescue should be kept                  
between 2-3" in height. Mow frequently removing one third of the                
blade at each cutting.                                                          
                                                                                
* Don't overwater your lawn this summer. Too much water leaches                 
out nitrogen, encourages a number of weeds and brings on disease                
problems.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Moles feed on white grubs and in their feeding ruin the                       
lawn. The number of mole can be reduced by eliminating the grubs.               
Consult your extension service for current recommendations.                     
                                                                                
* If your lawn is bluegrass/fescue, resist the urge to fertilize                
now. Fall is the time to fertilize these grasses. Fertilizing now               
will keep you behind the lawn mower all spring and increase the                 
injury to lawns from summer disease and drought.                                
                                                                                
* Grass clippings can be used as a mulch in flower beds and                     
vegetable gardens if allowed to dry well before use. Fresh, damp                
grass clippings will mat and may attract pests. Never use                       
clippings from a lawn that has been treated with a herbicide.                   
                                                                                
* Creeping red fescue may be used for turf in shady, drought                    
prone areas. Keep this grass at 2 - 2 1/2 inches in height.                     
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* Imported cabbage worms are velvety, green worms which eat large               
holes in the leaves of plants in the cabbage family. They are                   
difficult to see, but the holes and green "frass" or excrement on               
the plants are evidence of there presence. Also look for the                    
familiar adult cabbage moth--white, with dark tipped wings.                     
Caterpillars may be hand picked or sprayed with Bacillus                        
thuringiensis, a natural, non-toxic preparation available by                    
various trade names.                                                            
                                                                                
* Slugs love cool, moist weather and succulent, leafy crops,                    
especially lettuce and cabbage. Debris in the garden provides                   
them with a place to hide and should be removed promptly. To see                
if your garden is under attack, put out a board or invert a                     
flower pot. The next morning, see if there are any slugs clinging               
to the underside of the pot or board. If so, begin removing them                
by hand every few days to decrease their populations.                           
                                                                                
* Newly set plants should be protected from cutworms with                       
collars.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Lettuce, tomatoes, beans and peas are self-pollinating annual                 
vegetables from which seed can be easily saved. Make sure the                   
plants are open-pollinated (not hybrids) or next year's plants                  
will not grow like the parent plants. Write the Virginia Gardener               
or your extension agent to request publication 426-316 for seed                 
saving tips.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Plan vegetable gardens with nutrition in mind. Compare the                    
nutritional values of your crops with the amount of space                       
allotted them. For example, your family will get more vitamins                  
and minerals from a block of spinach than from an equal amount of               
lettuce.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Consider planting some ornamental gourds in the garden this                   
year. After harvest in the fall, wash and dry thoroughly and                    
paint with clear shellac. Place in a basket or bowl and you'll                  
have an attractive centerpiece for Thanksgiving.                                
                                                                                
* When thinning beans, watch for poor weak sprouts. In particular               
look for seedlings which have lost one or both of their                         
cotyledons and those which have the growth point damaged so                     
severely that they can't develop. Both types of seedlings will be               
weak and delayed in growth and should be removed.                               
                                                                                
* Stay out of the garden when foilage is wet. Walking through a                 
wet garden spreads disease from one plant to another.                           
                                                                                
* When planting large-seeded lima or butter bean seed in heavy                  
soils, it may help germination to plant the seed on their narrow                
edge. This will facilitate the emergence of the large cotyledons                
or seed leaves. On light sandy soil, this is of less value                      
because such soil offers little resistance to sprouts.                          
                                                                                
* Deep transplanting is good for tomatoes. Tomato plants can be                 
set in the ground so just a little tuft of leaves shows above the               
surface. After removing all leaves that would be under the soil,                
set out the plants. New roots will sprout along the stem. Deep                  
transplanting does not work with other vegetables.                              
                                                                                
* Sprinkle seeds evenly by putting them in a small shaker. A set                
of caps for seed sprouting jars will let you choose one with                    
appropriate-sized holes for the seeds you use. The problem of                   
sowing fine seed too thickly can be reduced by mixing them with                 
sand.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Drive stakes when you plant tomatoes or cucumbers. If you try                 
to install stakes later, you may damage the plant roots. Tie the                
plants with a soft material such as stockings or worn bed sheets                
which will not cut into the stems.                                              
                                                                                
* Trellis and stake downwind from the prevailing winds so plants                
will lean against the supports when the wind is blowing.                        
                                                                                
* Amaranth is an excellent substitute for cooked spinach accordi-               
ng to USDA tests. It does best in midsummer heat and harvestable                
leaves are produced in just 30 days from sowing.                                
                                                                                
* Spinach leaf miners tunnel between the surfaces of the leaves                 
of beets, spinach, swiss chard, and lettuce and leave white                     
trails etched in the leaves. White grubs hatch from white eggs                  
which were laid on the underside of the leaf by a small fly. You                
may prevent the fly from laying eggs by keeping plants covered                  
with a cheesecloth tent or spun polyester row cover. If you                     
cannot cover your plants, consult your extension agent for                      
controls.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Look for the new red variety of okra which is both edible and                 
ornamental. Plants and fruit become deep red, giving color to                   
gardens. High yields, early maturity, and a short plant height                  
are other traits that should make the okra popular.                             
                                                                                
* Frequent picking of cucumbers, summer squash, beans, peas,                    
lettuce, and greens while they are small and tender will improve                
the quality of the produce and increase the yield of each plant.                
                                                                                
* After planting seed from this year's packets, store leftovers                 
in a tightly sealed jar in the refrigerator. Add a dessicant such               
as a layer of tissues in which 2 tablespoons of powdered milk                   
have been wrapped to absorb excess moisture from the air.                       
                                                                                
* Four to five layers of newspaper will serve as an effective                   
mulch in the garden. Cover with sawdust or soil to reduce the                   
white glare and prevent it from blowing away.                                   
                                                                                
* Flea beetles can severely damage newly set plants. Consult your               
extension agent for control methods as soon as these small shiny,               
black, hopping insects are noted.                                               
                                                                                
* When selecting green leafy vegetables, generally the darker                   
green the leaf, the higher the vitamin content. For example,                    
romaine and looseleaf lettuce contain more vitamin A and C, and                 
calcium than either crisphead or butterhead. Fresh spinach                      
contains large amounts of potassium, iron, and vitamin A.                       
                                                                                
* Don't use a weed-and-feed type fertilizer in the garden. Weed                 
killers don't know a vegetable from a weed. It may injure your                  
crop as well as contaminate it.                                                 
                                                                                
Fruits/Nuts                                                                     
                                                                                
* Thin peaches four to six inches apart for large, high quality                 
fruit.                                                                          
                                                                                
Indoor plants                                                                   
                                                                                
* Divide indoor plants when new growth starts in spring. Root                   
cuttings during spring and summer when the plant is actively                    
growing.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Vacation hint:  Sink houseplants, pots and all, in the soil in                
a shady area of the garden. Mulch to reduce the need for frequent               
watering.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Houseplants in containers without drainage holes are poor                     
candidates for outside. A good rainstorm may drown and rot them.                
All plants perform better in containers with drainage holes.                    
                                                                                
* A fern that is exceptionally tolerant of the dry air of the                   
home is the mother fern (Asplenium bulbiferum) so-called because                
it produces plantlets on its fronds. It does well at 30%                        
humidity. For homes with 50% humidity, button ferns (Pellaea                    
rotundifolia) are an excellent choice.                                          
                                                                                
* Move your house plants outdoors when the night temperatures                   
stay above 60 degrees. Avoid sun burning the foliage by moving                  
the plants gradually from the relative darkness of the house to                 
their summer location. Start by putting them in a well-shaded                   
location and progressing to increasingly lighted areas.                         
                                                                                
Tools and equipment (includes container)                                        
                                                                                
* A rain gauge can be constructed from a large can and a plastic                
straw. Mark the straw in inches and fractions. After removing the               
lid from the can, set it out to collect rainfall. After a rain,                 
insert the straw to the bottom of the can and put your finger                   
over the opening. Withdraw the straw and hold it up to the light                
to read the amount of rainfall.                                                 
                                                                                
* Put your tools away at the end of the day; clean them and hang                
them up, if possible. Keep the cutting edge sharp for easier use.               
                                                                                
* When you remodel the kitchen, save a section of the old cabinet               
and use for a potting bench. It provides a comfortable working                  
height and storage below for pots, media, tools, etc.                           
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* Toads eat cutworms and other insect pests. Give them a home in                
your garden by placing inverted clay flower pots in shady spots.                
Make sure to chip out a piece of the pot rim to give the toads an               
entrance to their home.                                                         
                                                                                
* Recycle your kitchen scraps in a compost trench to avoid                      
attracting birds or animals to your compost pile. Dig the trench                
between garden rows, covering each addition with garden soil. The               
material will enrich your soil as it breaks down.                               
                                                                                
* To better evaluate your gardening successes, keep weather                     
records along with garden records. The most important items to                  
report are daily minimum and maximum temperatures, precipitation                
and cloud cover, and frost occurrences.                                         
                                                                                
* Where earwigs and sowbugs are a problem, try trapping them with               
rolled up newspapers which have been moistened with water. The                  
insects will hide in the papers by day. Gather up the traps and                 
dispose of them frequently.                                                     
                                                                                
 * Algae and lichens are primitive plants which grow nearly                     
anywhere there is adequate moisture. Although they are often                    
found growing on tree trunks, algae and lichens generally do not                
harm trees; often they indicate stressful conditions such as soil               
compaction, poor drainage or insufficient fertilizer.                           
                                                                                
* Don't spray on a windy day. Not only is pesticide wasted, it                  
may endanger other crops or you.                                                
                                                                                
* Large plate glass windows are apparently invisible to birds.                  
Hang small mobile twists of reflective ribbon or hanging baskets                
in front of the glass to prevent crashes.                                       
                                                                                
* Lace bugs, tiny fly-like insects with lacy wings, weaken                      
rhododendrons, azaleas and mountain laurel by sucking out                       
cellular fluids. Since these insects prefer hot, dry conditions,                
plants grown in semishade are less susceptible. Consult your                    
extension agent for control reccommendations.                                   
                                                                                
* Avoid using peat moss as a mulch. It tends to form a tight mat,               
virtually impermeable to light rain once it becomes dry. It is                  
best mixed in with soil as a conditioner.                                       
                                                                                
* 35 of the 39 snakes found in Virginia are beneficial to the                   
farmer and gardener. They eat insects and rodents. Of particular                
value is the large black rat snake, which consumes mice, rats,                  
and other small mammals.                                                        
                                                                                
* Introducing your children to gardening can be a rewarding                     
experience for the entire family. Give them a small plot of their               
own with full sun, good soil and drainage. Geraniums and begonias               
from pots are easy for little hands to handle and marigolds,                    
radishes, and favorite vegetables can be added. It's a pleasant                 
and productive way to spend time together.                                      
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
May 1987 Press Releases                                                         
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Extension                   
Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Home Horti-                 
culture, working with Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab and                
Mike Weaver, Coordinator of the Chemical, Drug and Pesticide                    
Unit. The Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed                  
for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper features and other               
educational programs.                                                           
                                                                                
Calibrating Sprayers and Spray Patterns             84 lines                    
Starting New Plants From Stem Cuttings              78 lines                    
Selecting a Power Tiller                            61 lines                    
Miniature Gladiolus                                 49 lines                    
Pesticide Formulation                               66 lines                    
Galls                                               54 lines                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Calibrating Sprayers and Spray Patterns                                         
                                                                                
The usual approach homeowners use when applying a pesticide over                
a given area is to mix a tablespoon or two of a certain pesticide               
and apply it to a problem area. This is acceptable if the label                 
gives recommended rates in teaspoons or tablespoons per gallon.                 
But some pesticides, specifically herbicides and insecticides for               
lawns, do not give rates in tablespoons or teaspoons per                        
gallon. Instead, they give rates of application in teaspoons or                 
tablespoons per 100 or 500 square feet. Unfortunately the                       
homeowner all too often solves this problem by guessing how much                
to use. This can be dangerous; a high concentration of a                        
pesticide may be too toxic; too little will not control the                     
problem. It is irresponsible of the homeowner to apply chemicals                
at improper rates. It can be dangerous to himself, his neighbors,               
and the environment.                                                            
                                                                                
A better approach is to calibrate the sprayer. The calibration of               
a home sprayer is relatively easy. Once it has been done, it has                
been done for the life of the sprayer provided the nozzle remains               
unchanged, clean, and adequate pressure is used. It must be kept                
in mind that the rate at which the liquid is applied varies with                
the pressure and size of the opening in the nozzle. High pressure               
and a large opening in the nozzle permit more liquid to be                      
applied over a given area than low pressure and/or smaller size                 
nozzle. For calibrating a sprayer, the procedure is as follows:                 
                                                                                
   1) Fully pressurize the sprayer and determine delivery                       
time. This is done by spraying water for a set time (ie. 30                     
seconds) through the sprayer into a jar, and measuring the amount               
collected. Mark this delivery time on the sprayer for future use.               
                                                                                
   2) Spray an area with water, at normal working speed, for 30                 
seconds. Measure the area sprayed. This tells how much area can                 
be sprayed in 30 seconds and therefore the amount that is applied               
over that area. For example, assuming that it has been                          
established: 30 seconds of spraying delivers 1/2 cup and 30                     
seconds of spraying will cover 100 square feet; then, 1/2 cup                   
covers 100 sq ft or 5 cups spray (.5 x 10) covers 1,000 sq ft.If                
the label calls for 3 tablespoons of pesticide for 1000 square                  
feet, then, 3 tablespoons of pesticide must be mixed with 5 cups                
(1 qt and 1 cup or 40 oz) of water to achieve proper spray                      
coverage.                                                                       
                                                                                
   3) Calculate the area to be treated. Measure the area that is                
to be sprayed. Multiply length times width to determine the area                
of a rectangle. The area of a triangle is calculated by multiply-               
ing the base times the height and dividing by 2. Most areas can                 
be calculated by combining rectangles and triangles or subtracti-               
ng triangles from rectangles.                                                   
                                                                                
   4) If the area is large, divide it into sections equal to the                
size of the delivery area.                                                      
                                                                                
   5) Mix the exact amount of spray needed so there is no left                  
over.                                                                           
                                                                                
The spray pattern best used to cover an area of ground is one                   
which will give uniform coverage with little spray overlap. Over-               
lap can be a problem, causing certain areas to end up with an                   
extra dose of pesticide. The spray pattern used to apply the                    
pesticide should be continuous and uninterrupted. If a herbicide                
is being applied, the sprayer should not be slowed down or                      
stopped at each weed. If the herbicide has been mixed correctly                 
and the sprayer is properly calibrated, the continuous                          
uninterrupted flow of chemical will be sufficient for good pest                 
control.                                                                        
                                                                                
The spray pattern should be directed so that the applicator does                
not walk through it while spraying. The spray pattern should form               
an arc no more than 3-4 feet on either side of the operator. The                
sprayed area should have a small amount of overlap to insure                    
coverage. There can be a time when overlap may be beneficial. If                
good spray coverage is questionable such as when using hose end                 
sprayers, cut the application rate in half and apply the                        
pesticide first in an east-west pattern, then in a north-south                  
direction. Be sure to let the first application dry before                      
applying it a second time. This gives better coverage with                      
devices typically poor in their metering capabilities.                          
                                                                                
When the mixture on the label is in teaspoons or tablespoons per                
gallon and the plants are upright such as shade trees, fruit                    
trees, shrubs and vegetables, spray the leaves until run off                    
(pesticide solution drips from the leaves). Don't forget to spray               
the underside of leaves for good coverage.                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
Starting New Plants from Stem Cuttings                                         
                                                                                
Share cherished plant material with friends, relatives or                       
neighbors by making stem cuttings. Taking and rooting stem                      
cuttings is a simple process of plant propagation which can be                  
fun as well as a learning experience.                                           
                                                                                
Cuttings should be taken with a sharp knife or razor blade to                   
reduce injury to the plant. Remove flowers and flower buds from                 
cuttings to allow the cutting to use its energy and stored                      
carbohydrates for root and shoot formation. On woody plants, to                 
hasten rooting, increase the number of roots, or to obtain                      
uniform rooting, use a rooting hormone, preferably one containing               
a fungicide. Put some rooting hormone in a separate container for               
dipping cuttings.                                                               
                                                                                
Many different rooting media are effective for starting cuttings                
including coarse sand, vermiculite, and a mixture of peat and                   
perlite. For some plants potting soil and for some water will                   
allow satisfactory rooting. It is important to choose the correct               
rooting medium to get optimum rooting in the shortest time. In                  
general, the rooting medium should be sterile, low in fertility,                
drain well yet retain moisture to prevent wilting. Moisten the                  
medium before inserting cuttings, and keep it evenly moist while                
cuttings are rooting and forming new shoots. Place cuttings in                  
bright but indirect light.                                                      
                                                                                
Although other parts of the plant can be used for cuttings, by                  
far the largest number of plant species are propagated by stem                  
cuttings. Some can be taken at any time of the year, but stem                   
cuttings of many woody plants must be taken in late summer or                   
fall and others in the dormant season.                                          
                                                                                
Different parts of the stem can be used for cuttings:                           
                                                                                
Tip cuttings: Detach a 2-6 inch piece of stem, including the                    
terminal bud. Make the cut just below a node. Remove lower leaves               
that would touch or be below the medium. Dip the stem in rooting                
hormone if desired. Gently tap the end of the cutting to remove                 
excess hormone. Insert the cutting deeply enough into the media                 
to support itself. At least one node should be below the surface,               
as many plants will only root at the node.                                      
                                                                                
Medial cuttings: Make the first cut just above a node, and the                  
second cut just above a node 2-6 inch down the stem. Prepare and                
insert the cutting as you would a tip cutting. Be sure to                       
position right side up. Buds are always above leaves. These are                 
usually slower to root and grow into an attractive plant than tip               
cuttings.                                                                       
                                                                                
When a number of new plants are desired from a single stock plant               
a small portion of the stem may be used as a cutting. These small               
cuttings must put out roots and sprout new leaves from the buds                 
so growth is much slower than in tip or medial cuttings. These                  
types of cuttings include cane, single eye, double eye and heel.                
                                                                                
Cane cuttings: Cut cane-like stems from plants such as Chinese                  
evergreen and Dumbcane into sections containing one or two nodes.               
Dust ends with fungicide or activated charcoal. Allow to dry                    
several hours. Lay horizontally with about half of the cutting                  
below the media surface, eye or bud facing upward. Cane cuttings                
are usually potted when roots and new shoots appear. These                      
cutting are useful when many plants are desired from a single                   
parent. They are slow to produce sizable plants.                                
                                                                                
Single Eye: The eye refers to the node. This is used for plants                 
with alternate leaves. Cut the stem about 1/2 inch above and 1/2                
inch below a node. Place cutting horizontally or vertically in                  
the medium.                                                                     
                                                                                
Double Eye: This is used for plants with opposite leaves. Cut the               
stem about 1/2 inch above and 1/2 inch below the same node.                     
Insert the cutting vertically in the medium with the node just                  
touching the surface.                                                           
                                                                                
Heel cutting: This method is used with woody stems. Make a                      
shield-shaped cut about halfway through the stem around a leaf                  
and axial bud. Insert the shield horizontally into the medium.                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
Selecting a Power Tiller                                                       
                                                                                
The power rotary tiller is probably the power tool most commonly                
purchased by gardeners. Whether or not a gardener needs a rotary                
tiller depends on the size of the garden, the gardener's                        
capabilities, and the intended uses of the tiller. Most home                    
gardeners will find it more economical to rent a tiller or hire                 
someone for those occasional tilling needs. However, for those                  
who choose to buy, careful selection of the tiller should be                    
based on the nature of the work to be done, the quality of the                  
machine and ease of repair, as well as personal preference. The                 
tiller's engine powers rotating blades, or tines, which can make                
garden soil loose and fluffy, ready for planting. It can also                   
chop up plant debris and mix it into the soil. Incorporating                    
organic matter and manures into the garden is easily accomplished               
with a tiller, reducing the tendency to procrastinate this most                 
necessary chore.                                                                
                                                                                
The ability of the tiller to do these jobs effectively is a                     
function of its weight, strength, design, type of tines, and the                
type of soil. A heavy, powerful tiller is most effective on stony               
clay soils, while in a small garden or one with light soil, a                   
smaller tiller is more appropriate. Very lightweight tillers,                   
known as "soil blenders," are designed mainly for raised bed                    
gardening; however, they are not widely available and frequently                
must be mail-ordered.                                                           
                                                                                
Both front and rear tine rotary tillers are available. Rear-tined               
tillers are generally better able to self-propel on all but the                 
rockiest soils. Rear-tined tillers often have a number of                       
attachments available for a variety of uses, such as hilling                    
potatoes, making raised beds, even plowing snow! The price of a                 
rear-tined rototiller is considerably higher in most cases than                 
that of the front-tined type; consideration should be given to                  
the payback time necessary for such a large investment.                         
If gardening is simply a hobby, and the garden is small, a                      
front-tined tiller may be more suitable. Front-tined tillers are                
usually lighter in weight, but may require more strength to guide               
them through the soil. Operating this type of tiller is                         
comparable to handling a large floor polisher such as those used                
in schools and hospitals mainly, leverage is required for                       
control, but new gardeners are sometimes scared away from these                 
tillers because of the initial experience of having a tiller run                
away with them. The front-tined tiller may not make as straight a               
pass as the heavier rear-tined type, but it is much easier to                   
turn. Due to this increased maneuverability, the front-tined                    
tiller is easier to use in small gardens and in corner areas.                   
                                                                                
The purchase of a tiller is a major investment as garden tools                  
go. Features to look for include heavy cast iron, steel plate and               
tubing, heavy bearings, strong welds used in construction, and                  
easily operable controls. Ask to look at the operator's manual                  
and try to determine how simply a tune-up can be performed; you                 
may save yourself a great deal of trouble and money if you can                  
replace plugs and points yourself, particularly if you have no                  
pick-up truck on which to load the tiller. Also consider the                    
locations of service centers and parts dealers. Careful attention               
to your needs, abilities, and price range is important. Talk to                 
people who have the types of tillers you are interested in. If                  
possible, borrow or rent various types of machines and send for                 
information before you buy.                                                     
Miniature Gladiolus                                                            
                                                                                
When people think of gladiolus, their immediate image is of showy               
spikes five to six feet tall, towering over the other flowers in                
the garden. Although many enthusiasts strive for the largest                    
possible gladiolus, others scoff at them as flowers for funerals                
and cathedral weddings.                                                         
                                                                                
As landscapes are concentrated in smaller space around the house,               
these tall spikes tend to distract rather than add to the visual                
appeal. Actually, they are best suited to a cut flower garden or                
a few rows in the vegetable garden rather than the flower border.               
However, all gladiolus do not have to be eliminated from the list               
of bulbs that enhance perennial borders. A careful search of                    
catalogs will reveal a number of desirable miniature gladiolus.                 
                                                                                
The miniature gladiolus were first discovered in the rain forests               
of South Africa. The individual flowers were small and scattered                
along the stem, so they were not very impressive. As a result,                  
they were neglected until recent years, when their real potential               
became appreciated. Now, plant breeders have developed some                     
exquisite varieties in fresh, unusual colors.                                   
                                                                                
Miniature glads are easy to grow. All they need is fertile, well                
drained soil. They love the sun, so do not plant them near trees.               
Although they grow well even during a hot summer, more attractive               
flowers will be produced if adequate moisture is provided.                      
                                                                                
Plant the corms, which are sometimes erroneously referred to as                 
bulbs, four to five inches deep. No support will be needed for                  
these shorter spikes. They are very effective in groups of at                   
least six of a kind in the border or small flower garden.                       
                                                                                
The new varieties of miniature gladiolus have strong, wiry stems.               
They are also quite flexible, so arrangements can be casual and                 
graceful. The petals have good substance and are long-lasting                   
after being cut. The spikes open gradually from the base of the                 
stem, so each bloom may be attractive for about 10 days.                        
                                                                                
Among the miniature varieties, there are ruffled, hooded and                    
wide-open blossoms, as well as long, thin petals, which are among               
the daintiest of all. Some are solidly colored, while others have               
a contrasting center blotch or picotee edge. Some will produce                  
two short spikes.                                                               
                                                                                
A gladiolus mixture is a good way to become acquainted with these               
smaller blooming corms. Ensure a good selection by writing for                  
one of the gladiolus catalogs in which the varieties are listed                 
by color.                                                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
Pesticide Formulation                                                          
                                                                                
The formulation describes the physical state of a pesticide and                 
determines how it will be applied. Pesticides are rarely applied                
full strength. The chemical in the pesticide formulation that                   
actually kills the pest(s) is termed the active ingredient. The                 
added chemical(s), those which make the product easy and safe to                
formulate or apply, are termed the inert ingredients. The common                
pesticide formulations that follow are divided into two groups,                 
formulations that require mixing and formulations that are ready                
to use when purchased.                                                          
                                                                                
Formulations that require mixing:                                               
                                                                                
1. Emulsifiable concentrates (EC or E): The active ingredient is                
mixed with an oil base (often listed as petroleum derivatives)                  
forming an emulsion which is diluted with water for application.                
ECs are common in the home garden trade, being easy to mix and                  
use. They can cause a minor surface bronzing of light colored                   
fruit. They should be protected from freezing temperatures which                
can break down the emulsifier.                                                  
                                                                                
2. Flowables (F or L): A flowable, or liquid, can be mixed with                 
water to form a suspension in a spray tank.                                     
                                                                                
3. Wettable powders (WP or W): Wettable powder formulations are                 
made by combining the active ingredient with a fine powder. They                
look like dusts, but they are made to mix with water. These                     
formulations need continuous agitation to maintain a suspension                 
and are thus difficult for home gardeners to use. When mixing a                 
WP, first mix the measured quantity with a small amount of water,               
forming a slurry, (a paper cup with a popsicle stick makes a good               
disposable mixing container) then add it and the additional water               
to the spray tank. The spray tank must be frequently shaken to                  
maintain the suspension.                                                        
                                                                                
4. Soluble powders (SP): A soluble powder formulation is made                   
from an active ingredient in powder form that dissolves in water.               
                                                                                
Formulations that are ready to use as they are purchased.                       
                                                                                
1. Solutions (S): These formulations are premixed, ready to                     
use. They are often used in household pest products.                            
                                                                                
2. Aerosols (A): These are very low concentrate solutions,                      
usually applied as a fine spray or mist. They are generally sold                
in aerosol cans and are a very expensive source of pesticide.                   
                                                                                
3. Dusts (D): Dust formulations are made by adding the active                   
ingredients to a fine inert powder or talc. They are generally                  
used dry.                                                                       
                                                                                
4. Granules (G): Granular formulations are made by adding the                   
active ingredient to coarse particles (granules) of inert                       
material like fired clay particles.                                             
                                                                                
5. Baits (B): A bait formulation is made by adding the active                   
ingredient to an edible or attractive substance. Baits are often                
used to control slugs, snails, or small ground insects and                      
rodents.                                                                        
                                                                                
Gardeners often attempt to compare a spray with a dust. It should               
be noted that dusts are a type of formulation, but sprays are not               
a formulation, they are one means of applying several different                 
formulations such as wettable powders or emulsifiable                           
concentrates that are mixed with water.                                         
Galls                                                                          
                                                                                
Galls are abnormal growths of plant tissue induced by insects and               
other organisms. Gall-making parasites release growth-regulating                
chemicals as they feed, causing adjacent plant tissues to form a                
gall. The parasite then develops within the relative security of                
the gall. Several different groups of insects and one family of                 
mites have developed the ability to induce plant galls. In                      
addition, there are a few galls produced by nematodes, bacteria,                
fungi, and viruses.                                                             
                                                                                
Galls come in an endless variety of forms. Many are strikingly                  
colored or curiously shaped. Each gall-making species causes a                  
gall structurally different from all others. By noting the type                 
of host plant and the structure of the gall, one can identify the               
gall-making organism without actually seeing it.                                
                                                                                
The most important group of gall-producers are gall mites. Mites                
which cause galls are members of the family Eriophyidae. They are               
not insects. Many eriophyid mites live in buds or are free-living               
on the surface of leaves and do not produce galls. Some are                     
serious pests; the Rivet Rust Mite, Hemlock Rust Mite, and                      
Juniper Bud Mite are examples.                                                  
                                                                                
These mites are so small that the larger species are barely                     
visible with a 10X hand lens. Their bodies are carrot-shaped and                
ringed with transverse lines. They have four stubby legs rather                 
than eight as do other mites.                                                   
                                                                                
The following common galls are caused by gall mites:                            
                                                                                
Maple Bladder Galls are small globular growths on the upper                     
surface of maple leaves. Several tiny mites live within each                    
gall. The galls may be red or green, and they may occur singly or               
in clusters. Silver maple and red maple are the most susceptible                
hosts.                                                                          
                                                                                
Maple Spindle Galls occurs most frequently on sugar maple.                      
Slender, pointed growths stick out from the upper surface of the                
leaves. Similarly-shaped spindle galls are found on elm, cherry,                
and linden.                                                                     
                                                                                
Erineum Galls are dense, felt-like patches of plant hairs. On                   
maple, erineum galls are sometimes red, white on alder, beech,                  
and poplar they are buff-colored.                                               
                                                                                
Blister Galls are irregular blister-like swellings on leaves.                   
Walnut and butternut are especially susceptible hosts.                          
                                                                                
Leaf Roll Galls are often seen on pecan. Gall mites live within                 
the narrow infoldings of the leaf edges.                                        
                                                                                
(Information provided by Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab,                
adapted from Factsheet, No. 4, by Daniel Hilburn, Lab Specialist)               
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
May 1987  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                    
                                                                                
This material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Horticulture Extension               
Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist Home                  
Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has been                       
developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                        
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
How to Care for Pruners                   11 lines                              
Getting Larger Flowers on Roses           11 lines                              
Protective Clothing and Pesticides        27 lines                              
Scented Geraniums Outside                 24 lines                              
Mexican Zinnias                           18 lines                              
Wisteria Won't Bloom                      21 lines                              
Verbenas as Groundcovers                  24 lines                              
Growing Delphiniums                       32 lines                              
Tools to Trim Hedges                      16 lines                              
Premature Cabbage Flowering               16 lines                              
Sweet Corn Pollination                    13 lines                              
Harvesting Beets                          10 lines                              
Rudbeckia                                 21 lines                              
Shape your Pine by Pinching               15 lines                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
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I just bought new pruners which were rather expensive.  I'd                     
like them to last a long time.  How should I care for them?                     
                                                                                
Clean and oil pruners regularly, including wiping an oily cloth                 
on the blades and other surfaces. Keep cutting edges sharp.                     
Several passes with a good oil stone will usually suffice. Wooden               
handles on loppers should be either painted, varnished, or                      
regularly treated with linseed oil. Use tools properly. Don't                   
twist or strain pruners or loppers. Keep the branch to be cut as                
deeply in the jaws and near the pivot as possible. Don't cut                    
wires with pruning tools.                                                       
                                                                                
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The flowers on my rose bush seem to be getting smaller every                    
year. Why?                                                                      
                                                                                
The more flowers and fruit a plant produces, the smaller they                   
become, as can be witnessed on an unpruned rose bush or fruit                   
tree. Pruning reduces the amount of wood and so diverts energy                  
into the production of larger, though possibly fewer, flowers                   
and/or fruit. Most flowering shrubs bloom either on the previous                
year's growth or on new growth so proper timing of pruning is                   
important to increase the production of wood that will bear                     
flowers.	                                                                       
                                                                                
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Should I wear protective clothing when I use pesticides?                        
                                                                                
Pesticides sold in the home garden trade generally do not require               
special protective clothing. However, anytime you handle                        
pesticides, you should wear a long sleeved shirt and long legged                
trousers, or a coverall type garment and shoes. If you desire                   
additional protection, wear unlined neoprene or rubber gloves, a                
wide-brimmed plastic hard hat that covers the back of the neck                  
and goggles or face shield to protect the eyes. Rubber gloves and               
goggles are particularly important when mixing or pouring                       
pesticides.                                                                     
                                                                                
Many professionally used and highly toxic chemicals require                     
special protective clothing. These chemicals will state clothing                
requirements on the label. Toxic commercial pesticides may                      
require neoprene boots, chemical cartridge respirators, face                    
masks, neoprene suits, or even gas masks. These more toxic                      
chemicals should not be used in a home garden setting.                          
                                                                                
After using any pesticide, wash your hands and arms thoroughly                  
with soap and water. Never eat, drink or smoke before washing                   
your hands. If you have been doing a lot of spraying or dusting,                
remove your clothes, take a shower, and put on clean clothes.                   
Clothing should be laundered separately from the family wash. The               
washer should be run empty with detergent after cleaning                        
pesticide contaminated clothing. If you get sprayed, change and                 
shower immediately. Use first aid procedures if necessary.                      
                                                                                
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Will scented geraniums grow in a windy sunny spot outside?                      
                                                                                
For hot windy spots, scented geraniums (Pelargonium species) are                
an excellent choice. They grow vigorously and thrive despite                    
baking sun and frequent high winds. Plants are easy to grow and                 
are rarely bothered by pests. Most of them tolerate considerable                
dryness but do require good drainage.                                           
                                                                                
Scented geraniums have numberous uses in flower gardens and                     
containers. The fast-growing tall types make fine temporary                     
hedges or screens. Cuttings taken in spring or fall root readily.               
Spring cuttings can increase the size of the planting, while fall               
cuttings can be used to overwinter these non-hardy perennials                   
indoors.                                                                        
                                                                                
The most robust scented geraniums, (up to 4 feet in a season)                   
such as the sweet scented Pelargonium graveolens and peppermint                 
scented P. tomentosum should be located in the center or at the                 
rear of the beds. Low growing species such as the coconut (P.                   
grossularioides), nutmeg (P.x fragrans), and apple (P.                          
odoratissimum) scented varieties work as borders in beds, where                 
their unique fragrance can be enjoyed close up. Popular                         
variegated forms of sweet scented geraniums, also make attractive               
bedding plants.                                                                 
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What conditions are best for Mexican Zinnias?                                   
                                                                                
Warm colored Mexican zinnias (Z. Haageana) thrive under a wide                  
range of garden conditions. They grow especially well in gravelly               
or sandy soils, and in sunny corners of the garden that receive                 
little care and attention.                                                      
                                                                                
The annual plants of Mexican zinnias are low growing, ranging                   
from 8 to 24 inches in height, and bush out to form flowering                   
mounds. The leaves are much narrower than those of standard                     
zinnias and lose less water to evaporation. This explains the                   
drought tolerance of Mexican zinnias.                                           
                                                                                
Mexican zinnias are patterned in shades of cream, yellow and gold               
marked with red, maroon and burgundy. Blossoms are small ( 2 to 2               
1/2 inches in diameter) but numerous. The long-stemmed blossoms                 
of Mexican zinnias make excellent cut flowers and will hold in                  
bouquets for 5 to 7 days.                                                       
                                                                                
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Why doesn't my wisteria bloom?                                                  
                                                                                
Youth could be the problem since seedling plants require several                
years to flower and sometimes fail to flower at all. Grafted                    
plants, the kind purchased at nurseries and garden centers,                     
should not have this problem.                                                   
                                                                                
Reluctance of wisteria to bloom abundantly is usually due to a                  
lack of one or more of the following cultural requirments: full                 
sun, good drainage, and light fertilization in the fall, not                    
spring. Another essential is annual pruning, which can be done by               
shortening new shoots to five buds in summer. If a grafted or                   
cutting-grown Chinese wisteria refuses to flower in three or four               
years after planting, or a Japanese wisteria is barren after                    
about seven years, prune it heavily and fertilize with                          
superphosphate. If this fails to produce blooms root-prune by                   
driving a spade into the soil 24 inches from the trunk around the               
plant. Gardeners in the northernmost states are often deprived of               
wisteria flowers because of winterkill of flowerbuds, however,                  
Virginia gardeners can expect flowers yearly after the vine                     
matures.                                                                        
                                                                                
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Could verbenas be used as a ground cover? I only see them used in               
hanging baskets.                                                                
                                                                                
Verbenas are one of the best low-growing flowering groundcovers                 
for filling in between shrubs and for converting containers into                
cascades of color in bright full sun. Quick growing and                         
early-flowering verbena plants will spread and knit together                    
without rambling all over adjacent flowers. Verbenas come in                    
straight shades of violet, red, pink, white, and mixed colors.                  
Most flowers have clear white eyes which enliven the effect. The                
blossoms are flat clusters about 3 inches wide. The dark green,                 
ribbed leaves are attractive but are upstaged by the vivid                      
blossoms.                                                                       
                                                                                
Verbena seeds need warmth to sprout. For the longest bloom period               
start seed indoors or buy transplants.  Verbenas are  moderately                
heat resistant; therefore, you should plant them as soon as                     
possible after frost danger is past.                                            
                                                                                
Few flowers surpass verbenas for adaptability. They can be grown                
in a wide range of climates and on soils ranging from rich loams                
to poor sandy or gravelly loams. Verbenas respond well to                       
occasional light applications of fertilizer, especially if their                
foliage is yellowish or if the rate of growth has slowed.                       
                                                                                
 -------                                                                        
                                                                                
What is the secret to growing delphiniums? Are they annuals or                  
perennials?                                                                     
                                                                                
The big secret to maintaining delphiniums as perennials for                     
several years is heavy feeding and good drainage. A deep, very                  
rich soil is essential to develop and maintain a vigorous root                  
system so that the plant will withstand summer heat and resist                  
disease. Prepare the soil 36 inches deep for the tall hybrids, 18               
inches deep for the small ones. Gardeners may boost soil                        
fertility by adding loam, compost and aged manure to the planting               
site. The soil should also be on the alkaline side therefore lime               
may need to be worked into the ground before planting.                          
                                                                                
The best solution is to treat delphiniums as annuals (sow seed                  
very early) or biennials (sow in summer) which requires less                    
intense soil preparation. As a general rule, delphiniums should                 
be spaced 18-24 inches apart. Sufficient space is important in                  
order that full sun and good air circulation can be provided for                
proper growth as well as to prevent disease. A second flush of                  
bloom is possible in autumn. Cut off flower stalks below the                    
lowest flower when they have finished blooming in early summer                  
but be aware that return flowering is not always consistent.                    
Water and fertilize.                                                            
                                                                                
The hybrids Blackmore & Langdon, and New Century, tall strains of               
delphinium, are more apt to be truly perennial (though still                    
short-lived) than the Pacific Giants series, which needs cool                   
summers and tends to suffer crown rot in winter. Crown rot can be               
avoided by supplying a well drained site. Additions of sand (at                 
least 1/3 to 1/2 of total soil volume) may help soil drainage. In               
areas of hot summers and wet winters, use pine needle mulch in                  
summer.                                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
What tools are best to trim hedges?                                             
                                                                                
The traditional pair of scissor-action hedge shears is still the                
best all-round tool for hedge trimming. It will cut much better                 
and closer than electric trimmers which often break and tear                    
twigs. Hand shears can be used on any type of hedge, while                      
electric trimmers do poorly on large-leaved and wiry-twigged                    
varieties. Electric trimmers sometimes jam on thick twigs. Hand                 
shears are also quieter and safer, less likely to gouge the hedge               
or harm the operator than electric trimmers.                                    
                                                                                
Hand pruners are useful in removing a few stray branches, and are               
essential if an informal look is desired. Large individual                      
branches can be removed with loppers and/or a pruning saw. Chain                
saws are not recommended for use on hedges or any other home                    
pruning need.                                                                   
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
What makes cabbage flower prematurely?                                          
                                                                                
What really upsets gardeners is when cabbage is growing                         
beautifully during cool weather and goes to seed before harvest                 
stage. Just when the taste buds are primed, no cabbage!                         
                                                                                
Premature flowering is called bolting and is caused by prolonged                
exposure to cold weather. If you start early or use large                       
transplants, and they are exposed to continuous 40 to 50 degree                 
weather for 30 to 60 days, some or all of the plants will bolt.                 
                                                                                
Research shows that the best way to avoid bolting is to start                   
with small plants. Transplants should have leaves no more than 1                
to 1 1/2 inches wide. Bolting is especially serious where mild                  
winters allow very early planting or where fall planted cabbage                 
overwinter.                                                                     
                                                                                
 --------------                                                                 
                                                                                
How can you ensure good pollination of sweet corn? Is corn                      
sweeter in late fall?                                                           
                                                                                
Plant corn in blocks of several short rows rather than a single                 
long row to help ensure good pollination. Space plants 10 to 12                 
inches apart in rows 3 feet apart. Well-balanced soil fertility,                
plenty of moisture and full pollination are essential for well-                 
filled ears of high quality corn. The sweetest, tenderest sweet                 
corn is harvested in the late summer and early fall from healthy,               
properly fertilized plants that get plenty of moisture and                      
sunlight. The warm days and cool nights ensure maximum sugar                    
production during the day and minimum use of sugar by the plant                 
at night.                                                                       
                                                                                
 --------                                                                       
                                                                                
When do you harvest beets?                                                      
                                                                                
Start harvesting beets when roots are about 1 inch in diameter.                 
Clean thoroughly and cook both roots and tops. Continue                         
harvesting by pulling the larger plants; however, the older outer               
leaves will be tough and fibrous after early summer and should be               
discarded. Harvest all roots before they are more than 3 inches                 
in diameter. If you want a longer harvest season, plant                         
additional seedlings up to August first. Consult publication 426-               
334, "Fall Vegetable Gardening."                                                
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
Are Rudbeckias and Gloriosa daisies the same thing?                             
                                                                                
Rudbeckia is the common and scientific name for many diverse                    
species and man-made hybrids of this large genus also called                    
coneflowers. 'Gloriosa Daisy' is the cultivar name created for a                
man-made variety hybridized years ago. It specifically applies to               
a tall, large flowered rudbeckia available in both single and                   
double flowered forms. Closely related to our common Black-eyed                 
Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) the flowers are typically orange-yellow,                
banded with maroon.                                                             
                                                                                
These tetraploid strains, tend to be perennial but bloom the                    
first year from seed with heads six inches across. Cultivars or                 
named varieties of other rudbeckias have been introduced since                  
'Gloriosa Daisy.' These include a double blooming strain known as               
'Double Glorisa Daisy' as well as other related cultivars such as               
'Goldstrum' and 'Goldilocks.'                                                   
                                                                                
Plant the quick sprouting seeds out of doors as you would zinnias               
and marigolds for late summer to fall bloom. Rudbeckias will                    
often overwinter and bloom for two or three season.                             
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
How can I control the height and shape of my pine tree?                         
                                                                                
The best time to prune pines is just after growth has been                      
completed but before tissues in the stem have completely hardened               
off. This is usually about early June to early July depending on                
the pine species and area in the state.                                         
                                                                                
The height and width of pines can be restricted and a more dense                
growth can be induced using this method. Half to two-thirds of                  
the candle-like terminal growth can be pinched by hand or cut off               
with hand pruners before needles unfold. Do not use hedge shears.               
Large shears can damage the needles around the candle and the                   
brown ends will give the tree an unsightly look. When pines are                 
pruned annually, pruning can be limited to cutting back part or                 
all of the new growth.                                                          
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
November Notes                                                                  
                                                                                
* Dead leaf stalks of perennial vegetables such as asparagus                    
and rhubarb should be cut to the ground after their tops are                    
killed by frost.                                                                
                                                                                
* Before storing your stakes and trellises, be sure they are                    
thoroughly cleaned of remnants of plant materials and dirt. Hose                
down all particularly dirty places. Put stakes in bundles and                   
stack them so they won't get lost over the winter. Roll up                      
trellises and tie them securely.                                                
                                                                                
* When time or weather conditions prohibit plowing or cover                     
cropping, you may wish to let your garden lie under a mulch                     
of compost, plant wastes, or leaves all winter to be plowed                     
or tilled under in the spring. However, if you want to plant                    
early the next spring, a mulch of heavy materials such as whole                 
leaves may become matted and keep the soil cold long enough                     
to delay planting. In this case, chop organic matter fine enough                
that it will break down over winter.                                            
                                                                                
* Clean, oil, and mend all hand tools. Repaint handles or identi-               
fication marks that have faded over the summer. Sharpen all                     
blades and remove any rust.                                                     
                                                                                
* Power tools should be cleaned of all plant material and dirt.                 
Replace worn spark plugs, oil all necessary parts, and sharpen                  
blades. Store all tools in their proper place indoors, never                    
outdoors where they will rust over the winter.                                  
                                                                                
* Select accent plants for your landscape that will provide                     
interesting autumn colors. Trees which turn red include dogwood,                
red maple, sweet gum, and red or scarlet oak. Shrubs with red                   
fall foliage include viburnum, winged euonymous, and barberry.                  
                                                                                
* Many perennials and rock garden plants may be planted or                      
divided and replanted during the fall. Set them out early enough                
to establish their roots before the ground freezes.                             
                                                                                
* Remove leaves from the gutters of your home to avoid overflow                 
during fall rains. Paint the inside of the gutters with rust                    
resistant paint. You will extend their life for many years by                   
this treatment.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Peonies can be planted now in full sun and fertile, well-drain-               
ed soil rich in organic matter. Dig holes 18" and fill halfway                  
with a mixture of soil, compost, and a handful of 5-10-10                       
fertilizer. Add a few more inches of soil and set the tubers so                 
the buds are 1-2" below the soil surface. Backfill, firm the                    
soil, and water thoroughly. Peonies resent being moved and will                 
not bloom for several years. So, disturb only if necessary.                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
* Reduce peony botrytis blight and hollyhock rust by removing                   
and burning all old stems this fall. This will reduce the                       
carry-over of the diseases during the winter and you will have                  
less trouble next year.                                                         
                                                                                
* Reduce mouse damage to shrubs and young fruit trees by removing               
the mulch from around the stem. A ring of crushed stone extending               
out about 8" from the stem will be helpful.                                     
                                                                                
* Avoid transplanting shrubs and trees on sunny or windy days. On               
these days, the roots are exposed to too much light or drying                   
winds which puts undue stress on the plant.                                     
                                                                                
* Water pipes and outdoor faucets in the garden or patio should                 
be drained before cold weather occurs to prevent damage by freez-               
ing. Check guy wires around newly planted trees to be sure they                 
will not be damaged by windy weather during the fall and winter.                
                                                                                
* After the ground freezes, mulch small fruit plants such as                    
strawberries. One inch of straw or leaves is ideal for straw-                   
berries. Small branches may be used to keep mulch in place.                     
                                                                                
* After chrysanthemums have stopped blooming, cut stems back                    
close to the ground and dispose of stems and all dropped and                    
dried leaves and branches.                                                      
                                                                                
* The best way to prevent winter damage to shrubs is to select                  
hardy species when they are planted. Consult publications which                 
contain information on the climatic zones to which shrubs are                   
adapted. It is better to select hardy species in the first place                
than to attempt to protect tender plants later on.                              
                                                                                
* Watch for standing water in perennial beds after long periods                 
of rain. Water which collects on the surface during winter will                 
freeze and may damage perennials. Dig shallow trenches to help                  
drain excess water away. Make a note to raise that bed in spring.               
                                                                                
* Dig up a vigorous rhubarb crown now if you are planning on                    
forcing stalks later this winter.                                               
                                                                                
* Protect concrete pools by covering them, or by floating logs                  
in the water. Drain the water before freezing weather and place                 
a few boards or logs on the pool bottom to absorb the expansion                 
of freezing water that might accumulate.                                        
                                                                                
* Protect the roots of azaleas and rhododendrons with a heavy                   
mulch of acidic materials such as oak leaves, sawdust, or peat                  
moss.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Broadleaf evergreens may need to be protected to prevent drying               
out during the winter. Branches of pines or other evergreens                    
thrust into the ground around the plants work well. Where boughs                
are not plentiful, a screen of wooden boards, corn stalks or                    
burlap tacked to wooden frames will serve the purpose.                          
* Caulk and plug any entrances around the home used by wasps                    
this past summer.                                                               
                                                                                
* If there is any evidence of scale on trees and shrubs, spray                  
with dormant oil in late fall and again in early spring.                        
                                                                                
* Remove grass and weeds from trunks of fruit trees and grapes                  
to prevent damage by mice and rodents. Leave a bare circle one                  
foot wide around tree trunks when spreading mulch to keep mice                  
from feeding on the bark. A collar or fence of poultry wire                     
or a commercial tree guard approximately 18" high will deter                    
rodents and rabbits.                                                            
                                                                                
* Newly planted shade trees especially those with smooth bark                   
are often injured by temperature fluctuations and strong winter                 
sunshine. Prevent sunscald by wrapping the tree trunks with                     
commercial tree wrap, 4" burlap strips, or simply shading with                  
a board against the south side of the trunk.                                    
                                                                                
* If you are planning on having a live, balled and burlapped                    
Christmas tree, dig a planting hole now before the ground                       
freezes. Fill the hole with straw or hay to keep it from freez-                 
ing. Storing the soil in a garage or shed will give you workable                
soil when you need it.                                                          
                                                                                
* Earthworms must remain below frost line to survive. Mulch                     
piled on top of soil raises the frost line. If you want earth-                  
worms to help break down organice matter in the upper soil                      
layers, mulch deeply. If you need the subsoil aerated, leave the                
surface mulch thin; the worms will burrow downward to stay warm.                
                                                                                
* To prevent strawberries from heaving, apply straw or hay mulch                
2 to 5 inches deep after the ground freezes.                                    
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
November 1985                                                                   
                                Number of lines   Page                          
Native Trees                       60               2                           
House Plants Need Light            58               4                           
Winter Flowers Indoors             35               6                           
Plants At War                      53               7                           
Protecting Ornamentals             46               8                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
NATIVE TREES                                                                    
                                                                                
One way that often is recommended to reduce maintenance in the                  
home landscape is to select native trees and shrubs. These plants               
usually are more tolerant of local environmental conditions and                 
pests insuring better performance with less care. One difficulty                
in this approach is that many homeowners have problems identify-                
ing the desirable species among the multitude of trees in our                   
forests.                                                                        
                                                                                
Carolina silverbell (Halesia carolina), native to North Carolina,               
can be seen throughout the mountains of Virginia, but it does                   
well throughout the state. Usually considered to be a small tree,               
height between 30 and 40 feet, the species occasionally has                     
reached 80 feet. Its primary value is its clusters of small,                    
white, bell-like flowers borne on year-old growth in late April                 
or early May. These attractive flowers have a subtle beauty that                
is effective for about a week. Their summer foliage, with its                   
dark, yellowish green tone, also is an asset to the landscape.                  
                                                                                
The American yellowwood (Cladrastus lutea) is a native with its                 
showy spring flowers. In late May and early June, these fragrant                
white blossoms hang in clusters between 8 and 14 inches long.                   
They begin flowering when the tree is between 12 and 18 feet                    
tall. The flowers are as noted for their fragrance as well                      
as their beauty. Bees particularly are attracted to them.                       
Unfortunately, American yellowwoods tend to bloom every second or               
third year, so it would be best to combine them with other plants               
that bloom in the same season to assure an annual show. Because                 
of its medium size (30 to 50 feet) and spreading habit, it is                   
a good tree for smaller properties. Its yellow fall foliage and                 
smooth gray bark bring additional interest to the landscape.                    
                                                                                
A group of native trees that should interest homeowners is the                  
serviceberry. Two of the most interesting are the downy service-                
berry or shadblow (Amelanchier arborea), and Allegheny service-                 
berry (A. laevis). Serviceberries bloom in early April with                     
clusters of white flowers on the tops of the branches. They are                 
among the earliest plants to have fruits, blue or black berries                 
ripening in July. The sweet fruit was first used by American                    
Indians. One common name, the pie bush, indicates how the fruit                 
can be prepared. The fruit also is a favorite of some wildlife                  
and can be used to attract songbirds to the garden.                             
                                                                                
Although there are many other worthy native trees, two that are                 
not well known are the spicebush and American hornbeam. The                     
spicebush (Lindera benzion) grows from six to 12 feet tall with a               
normal spread. It is particularly noted for its pungent aroma                   
when any part of the plant is broken.                                           
                                                                                
American hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana), also called blue beech,               
ironwood or musclewood has smooth, thin, dark bluish gray bark                  
that is sinewy, greatly resembling flexed muscles. The wood                     
itself is very hard and heavy. American hornbeam grows to a                     
height of 20 to 30 feet and is best used in natural looking                     
sites.                                                                          
                                                                                
One difficulty in using the trees named in this column is, with                 
the exception of the American yellowwood, they are not commonly                 
found in the nursery. It may be necessary to locate a supplier of               
native trees, or dig them yourself from the wild.                               
HOUSE PLANTS NEED LIGHT                                                        
                                                                                
Different indoor house plants have varying light requirements. To               
grow them successfully, we must know what these requirements are                
and have a basic knowledge of light and its effects on plant life               
in general.                                                                     
                                                                                
Plants are selected as houseplants primarily because most of them               
do not require a lot of light to grow. Many indoor plants are                   
natives of jungles where light reaches them sporadically.                       
However, other house plants, the cacti and succulents for                       
example, come from open arid regions and thrive on intense light.               
                                                                                
Most house plants would be as badly damaged by overexposure as by               
underexposure. When there is too much light, the chlorophyll (the               
green pigment involved in photosynthesis) is broken down and                    
destroyed. The result is a chlorotic plant which is sick and                    
non-vigorous. In fact, it may look as if someone has dumped                     
bleach on it. Those plants that are not receiving enough light                  
have their own difficulties. They tend to become spindly and                    
leggy, don't flower, and may develop a discolored appearance or                 
lose their distinctive markings.                                                
                                                                                
The most accurate way to measure the quantity of light that                     
plants receive is with a light meter which reads in foot-candles.               
Indoor gardeners should take periodic light inventories with a                  
light meter in the various rooms where plants are growing. If you               
don't have one, a camera with a built-in light meter can be used                
to provide a reasonable light intensity estimate.                               
                                                                                
Be sure to clean windows inside and out to provide the most light               
to your plants. Eastern and western exposures provide moderate                  
light, to about 1,000 foot-candles. This generally is ideal light               
for many house plants. Southern exposures are the sunniest,                     
providing light intensities in the thousands of foot-candle                     
range. This may be too bright for tender foliage plants but is                  
great for the light lovers such as jade plants. You can always                  
shade plants with curtains.                                                     
                                                                                
Generally, windows with a northern exposure yield the least                     
light, having intensity readings in the hundreds of foot-candle                 
range. Remember, if light levels are less than 50 foot-candles,                 
it is difficult to even maintain plants for any length of time                  
and impossible to grow them. If the natural light is inade-                     
quate, try artificial sources. You can supplement the number of                 
exposure hours with artificial lighting, but don't leave lights                 
on plants for more than 16 hours. Most plants cannot tolerate                   
24-hour illumination as it upsets their delicate botanical                      
processes. An inexpensive electric timer can insure the right                   
length of time of artificial light.                                             
                                                                                
For maximum usefulness, artificial light sources need to be close               
to the plants. This probably will be no more than one foot away                 
for fluorescent fixtures and a slightly greater distance for                    
incandescent lights since they generate heat. By using multiple                 
fluorescent tubes and placing plants close to them, light                       
intensities of around 1,000 foot-candles can be provided.                       
WINTER FLOWERS INDOORS                                                         
                                                                                
One of the most reliable sources of winter bloom is the Spathi-                 
phyllum. Its white leaf-like flower is quite striking against the               
deep green foliage. It can easily outgrow most home settings,                   
however, as the plant may reach two or three feet in height.                    
                                                                                
The Streptocarpus or cape primrose is a smaller, but actually                   
much showier, plant. It has blossoms in various shades of purple,               
violet and rose, as well as white. A relative of the African                    
violet, it is easy to care for but equally prone to mealybugs.                  
                                                                                
The flame violet or Episcia is a vining relative of the African                 
violet with deep, orange-red blossoms. Although some people                     
report them difficult to grow, you should have little trouble as                
long as you give them plenty of light, and water thoroughly when                
the soil begins to dry.                                                         
                                                                                
There are several Bromeliads which create a showy display of                    
color on coarse, odd-looking plants. These relatives of the                     
pineapple vaguely resemble the severed top of a pineapple fruit.                
The flame sword and the air pine are the most common. Queen's                   
tears bromeliad provides year-round architecturally interesting                 
foliage and periodically rewards your patience with spikes of                   
pink, blue and yellow flowers. Most Bromeliads are easy to grow                 
but bloom only once. Many gradually die after flowering; but some               
put up side shoots that can be repotted for future plants and                   
flowers.                                                                        
                                                                                
There are many flowering plants, such as mums, poinsettias,                     
cyclamen and zebra plants, available from florists throughout the               
winter. Any of these, with skill and luck, can be induced to                    
rebloom after the initial show; but many gardeners find that it                 
simply isn't worth the effort and toss out the plant when it                    
becomes unattractive.                                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
PLANTS AT WAR                                                                   
                                                                                
Chemical warfare has been practiced in the plant kingdom far                    
longer than it has been practiced by man. Canada thistle, yellow                
nutsedge and quackgrass not only do hand-to-hand combat with                    
crops to rob them of water, nutrients and sunlight, they produce                
toxic chemicals that inhibit the other plants' growth.                          
                                                                                
Allelopathy is the term which is used to describe the toxic                     
effect of one plant on another. Toxic chemicals can be released                 
by the roots or leaves of living or dead plants. In some cases,                 
they may be produced by micro-organisms that break down the                     
organic matter.                                                                 
                                                                                
The most common occurence of this characteristic is with the                    
black walnut (Juglans nigra). Since the time of ancient Rome,                   
gardeners have observed that walnut trees are toxic to many other               
plants. Although this toxicity is not fully understood, it is                   
known that a toxic substance called juglone is exuded from the                  
roots of black walnut trees. Not all plants are susceptible to                  
damage. In fact, some seem to have improved vigor when grown near               
a black walnut.                                                                 
                                                                                
Studies show that roots of the tree must have contact with, or be               
very close to, susceptible plants to cause injury. This may                     
include a much larger area, however, than most people expect as                 
the roots of a mature black walnut may occupy an area five or six               
times that of the tree's crown. Even after a walnut tree is                     
removed, the toxic substance will remain in the soil for about a                
year. Although leaves, husks and bark contain juglone, mulches of               
these tree parts are reported not to cause the toxic response                   
that occurs with actual root contact.                                           
                                                                                
Plants which have been recorded as harmed by black walnut include               
tomatoes, potatoes, blackberries, blueberries, rhododendron,                    
azaleas, and mountain laurel. Plants that do as well, or better,                
under black walnuts include Kentucky bluegrass, snap beans, sweet               
corn, red cedars, daffodils and maples. Noticing that the soil                  
under black walnuts is alkaline (the pH may be 0.7 points higher                
than the soil beyond the roots), one researcher suggests that                   
this may influence which plants perform well.                                   
                                                                                
Other researchers are looking at allelopathy as a possible way to               
control weeds. For example, certain selections of rye, wheat and                
barley significantly reduce weed growth, in part by the release                 
of toxic root substances. Therefore, they offer partial control                 
of certain annual weeds when grown as cover crops in fruit                      
orchards. Although research is in early stages, published reports               
indicate a potential for use that some day may be worthwhile for                
consideration by the home orchardist. The use of allelopathic                   
plants will not eliminate the need for herbicides, but it is                    
exciting to know that research is being conducted that may                      
provide another alternative to mechanical or synthetic chemical                 
control of weeds.                                                               
                                                                                
PROTECTING ORNAMENTALS                                                          
                                                                                
Homeowners can take several special actions to protect their                    
trees and shrubs for the winter. Although these actions won't                   
guarantee total absence of damage to the plants, they should                    
limit the severity of the problem.                                              
                                                                                
Any snow that collects on your shrubs should be removed with a                  
broom. Always sweep upward with the broom to lift off the snow.                 
When the branches are frozen and brittle, however, avoid disturb-               
ing the branches. Wait until a warmer day.                                      
                                                                                
Bark splitting is an especially dangerous condition to be guarded               
against on newly planted trees. It may be prevented by wrapping                 
trunks with burlap strips or with commercial tree wrap.                         
                                                                                
If the winter is particularly severe, many plants may show                      
substantial injury. Discolored or "burned" evergreen needles or                 
leaves, dead branch tips and branches, "heaved" root systems and                
broken branches are among the symptoms.                                         
                                                                                
Small evergreens can be protected by erecting wind breaks made                  
out of burlap, canvas, or similar materials attached to a frame                 
surrounding a plant. A complete wrapping of straw and burlap                    
sometimes is used.                                                              
                                                                                
Black plastic should be avoided as a material for wrapping                      
plants. During the day, it allows heat to increase inside and                   
actually increases the fluctuations between day and night                       
temperatures. It also may speed the growth of buds in the spring,               
making them more vulnerable to late frosts.                                     
                                                                                
Since the various boxes, shields and wrappings detract from your                
winter landscape, it might be wise to move sensitive plants to a                
more protected location and replace them with hardier specimens                 
that don't need such protection each year.                                      
                                                                                
Anti-dessicant (anti-dryout) compounds can be used on valuable                  
evergreens to lessen damage during severe freezes. They must be                 
applied at the onset of the coldest weather when plants are                     
unable to take up water from frozen ground. These compounds act                 
as barriers to the movement of water from the plant through                     
the leaves. The protection provided by an anti-dessicant is                     
temporary. After a few days, the film disintegrates.                            
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
November Question Box                                                           
                                                                                
Celery cabbage              16 lines                                            
Ornamental currant          36 lines                                            
Soil acidity                28 lines                                            
Hollow nuts                 40 lines                                            
Sweet gum                   64 lines                                            
Ming aralia                 18 lines                                            
Small aesculus species      36 lines                                            
Wild garden                 34 lines                                            
Spicebush                   30 lines                                            
Fig                         12 lines                                            
                                                                                
This material was prepared by  Virginia Nathan, Horticulture                    
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Special-               
ist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has                   
been developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                   
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
I noticed a strange vegetable that looked something like celery                 
in the supermarket. It was called celery cabbage. Can you tell me               
something about how to use and grow it?                                         
                                                                                
Celery cabbage is the most common name, but this green vegetable                
is also called bok-choy or pak-choi. It is a sweetly flavored,                  
lettuce-like vegetable with large crisp leaves. It is used fresh                
in salads, boiled as greens, sauteed, or wokfried.                              
                                                                                
Celery cabbage is in the Brassica family (related to broccoli                   
and cabbage) and requires cool weather during most of its growing               
season. It can be planted in early spring or grown as a fall                    
crop. It can be direct seeded, but in some areas transplants are                
available. Look for a seed source in a catalog which speci-                     
alizes in oriental vegetables. Most varieties mature in 70 to 80                
days.                                                                           
                                                                                
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In Europe I saw some attractive hedge plants called alpine                      
currants. I like currants somewhat, but I'm sure most of the                    
fruit will go to the birds which like them. Will these bushes                   
grow in Virginia?                                                               
                                                                                
In addition to the currants and gooseberries grown principally                  
for their edible fruit, there are several species that are purely               
ornamental. The mountain, or alpine, currant (Ribes alpinum) is a               
native of Europe, but it is grown in this country as well, mostly               
as a hedge plant and for attracting birds. Unlike garden cur-                   
rants, the male flowers and female flowers are on separate plants               
of alpine currants. Because only the female plants produce                      
fruits, some male plants nearby are necessary to insure fruiting.               
Most available cultivars are male clones which produce no fruit                 
but tend to be more rust resistant. Plants grow three to eight                  
feet tall and nearly as wide. They grow best in semishaded                      
locations and are hardy throughout Virginia.                                    
                                                                                
Another ornamental currant is the flowering, or winter, currant                 
(Ribes sanguineum). A native of western North America, it is an                 
attractive shrub, producing pink, red, or white flowers in the                  
spring (depending on the cultivar), and blue-black berries later                
in the season. Flowering currant is hardy only where winters                    
seldom get much below zero. They grow to a height of ten to                     
twelve feet.                                                                    
                                                                                
Be aware that currants are alternate hosts to the white pine                    
blister rust disease and their planting is restricted in many                   
areas of Virginia. In these counties, a permit must be obtained                 
from the Commissioner of Agriculture and Commerce in Richmond                   
before planting. No permit will be issued if the plants are to be               
within 1500' of sizable plantings of ornamental or commercial                   
white pine stands. At present, 33 counties are on the restricted                
list. Contact your extension agent for regulations concerning                   
growing currants in your area.                                                  
                                                                                
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How do I make soil more acid for azaleas and camellias?                         
                                                                                
A number of shrubs which are useful in the home landscape or                    
garden, grow best in an acid soil with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5. Some                 
of the plants which require this low pH are andromeda, azalea,                  
blueberry, camellia, laurel, and rhododendron.                                  
                                                                                
To lower the pH of a soil, first have your soil tested by your                  
extension service to determine its present pH level. If it is                   
higher than pH 5.5, you will need to apply flowers of sulfur or                 
aluminum sulfate to make it more acid. One pound of sulfur or 2                 
pounds of aluminum sulfate per 100 square feet lowers the pH                    
of loam soil about 1 pH value. Work the acidifying material into                
the top several inches of soil and water thoroughly.                            
                                                                                
Sandy soils need only half as much of the acidifying material as                
loam. Therefore, use 1/2 pound of sulfur or 1 pound of aluminum                 
sulfate per 100 square feet for a sandy soil to reduce the pH                   
level 1 pH value. Clay soils need approximately twice as much                   
sulfur or aluminum sulfate as loam to lower the pH. Therefore,                  
use 2 pounds of sulfur or 4 pounds of aluminum sufate per 100                   
square feet to make a clay soil 1 pH value lower (more acidic).                 
                                                                                
After 3 or 4 months, test the soil again for pH. You may need to                
apply more sulfur or aluminum sulfate to secure the desired pH                  
level. Since the procedure of lowering an area's pH takes some                  
time, consider beginning the process now so that your planting                  
bed will have the proper pH at spring planting time.                            
                                                                                
 -----------------                                                              
                                                                                
What causes the nuts on my walnuts and pecans to have no meat                   
inside?                                                                         
                                                                                
Walnut, butternuts, pecans, and hazelnuts that have poorly                      
developed or shriveled and decayed fruit result mostly from                     
problems which began early in the season. At this time of the                   
year, it is difficult or impossible to determine the exact                      
cause, but consider the following suggestions:                                  
Symptom                               Possible Cause                            
1. Fruit absent                       Incomplete pollination due                
                                      to adverse weather during                 
                                      fruit set or lack of a                    
                                      pollinating variety                       
2. Fruit shriveled, but not decayed   Water deficit which could                 
                                      have been due to low soil                 
                                      moisture, crown gall or                   
                                      impaired root system                      
3. Fruit decayed                      a. Insect injury followed                 
                                         by invasion by decay                   
                                         organisms                              
                                         (this would have                       
                                         happpened when the nuts                
                                         were quite small and the               
                                         husk was soft)                         
                                                                                
                                      b. Anthracnose (a fungal                  
                                         disease)                               
                                      c. Bacterial blight                       
                                         (English walnuts are                   
                                         susceptible)                           
                                                                                
If the problem was discovered this fall, next year would be the                 
time to collect specimens. Inspect nuts throughout the growing                  
season for insect injury or disease. Submit specimens to your                   
extension service when symptoms are first noticed.                              
                                                                                
For trees in the home yard, sanitation measures are important.                  
Rake and destroy fallen tree litter before spring arrives.                      
Provide fertilizer in the spring and, where practical, water                    
during dry periods. Water is particularly important for nut                     
development. Consult your extension agent for chemical control of               
insects and fungi if necessary.                                                 
                                                                                
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This autumn I noticed a tree with 5-pointed, nearly star-shaped                 
leaves which had such beautiful fall color, reds and scarlet. It                
reminded me somewhat of a maple tree, but it is not one that I                  
know. Can you identify this tree?                                               
                                                                                
The sweet gum (Liquidambar styraciflua) is one of the most                      
beautiful trees in its fall color. Its leaves turn from a bright,               
shiny green to a gorgeous crimson in autumn. With five to seven                 
lobes and serrated edges, the 5- to 6-inch wide, star-shaped                    
leaves are quite like those of maples. However, sweet gum leaves                
are born on the stems alternately instead of opposite one                       
another, as are maple leaves.                                                   
                                                                                
The fruit of the sweet gum is another distinctive feature of the                
tree. Prickly globes about 1 inch in diameter turn from green to                
brown in the fall. These fruit can be quite a nuisance in areas                 
where people walk, but they are highly sought after as an                       
ingredient in pine cone and seed wreaths and other seasonal                     
arrangements and decorations.                                                   
                                                                                
The bark on older sweet gum trees is deeply furrowed. The twigs                 
of the sweet gum are covered with corky bark that forms wing-like               
ridges similar to those on winged euonymous. The overall shape of               
the tree is pyramidal making it an excellent lawn tree.                         
                                                                                
The roots are fleshy, consequently the tree tends to be somewhat                
difficult to transplant in large sizes. (Transplant sweet gums no               
larger than 1-1/2 to 2 inches in trunk diameter.) Sweet gums tend               
to prefer a moist, slightly acidic, planting site with full sun.                
Avoid using this tree in areas where air pollution is a problem                 
or where the root system will be restricted.                                    
                                                                                
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I have a large ming aralia whose lower branches break off at the                
joints. A new shoot develops and grows in place of the lost one.                
Can you diagnose the problem?                                                   
                                                                                
Ming aralia (Polyscias fruticosa) drops leaves and branches when                
moved to a new environment, or when subjected to drafts. It is                  
also possible that you are feeding the aralia with a high                       
nitrogen product, which produces soft vegetative growth which is                
more prone to mechanical, insect, or disease related injury.                    
A liquid 5-10-10 fertilizer diluted according to label instruc-                 
tions should be applied once a month during the active growing                  
season (Mar. through Oct.) if the ming aralia is grown in a sunny               
location. Fertilization should be less if the plant is being                    
grown in light below 200 ft. candles and should be suspended                    
(Nov. through Oct.) while the plant is dormant. Provide ming                    
aralias with bright light, relative humidity of 50 percent, or                  
higher, and winter temperatures not over 70 degrees F. Water                    
thoroughly once a week when the plant is growing actively,                      
and a little less during dormancy, for a healthier plant.                       
                                                                                
 ----------------                                                               
                                                                                
Do you know of any buckeye (horse chestnut) varieties suitable                  
for a smaller home landscape? I remember these trees fondly from                
my youth, but I remember them as being huge. I would gladly plant               
one or two near my new home if I found one suitable for a                       
suburban-sized yard.                                                            
                                                                                
The Ohio buckeye, Aesculus glabra, grows to be 35-45' in height;                
the yellow buckeye, A. octandra reaches 60-75'; while the common                
horsechestnut, A. hippocastanum is 55-60' in height. Since these                
species are large trees with coarse texture, they are best suited               
to large areas such as parks and arboretums. In addition, the                   
fruit with its prickly husks, and the large leaves create                       
maintenance problems and increase fall cleanup in lawn areas.                   
Another reason few horticulturists recommend certain Aesculus is                
their tendency to develop leaf scorch by mid-summer leading to                  
early defoliation. In addition, the trees are susceptible to                    
pest problems such as powdery mildew.                                           
                                                                                
If you still want to try an Aesculus on your property, the                      
cultivars of Aesculus x carnea are smaller trees with red blooms                
and fewer leaf scorch problems, thus more suitable for specimen                 
and residential use. A. x carnea, also called red horsechestnut,                
is popular in Europe as a landscape tree in the 30-40' range.                   
Red buckeye, A. pavia, and bottlebrush buckeye, A. parviflora,                  
are smaller plants even more suited to small properties. Both                   
grow as clump-forming, multi-stemmed shrubs or small trees (under               
20') with flowering interest.                                                   
                                                                                
I advise you to locate these trees and shrubs on the edge of your               
property to minimize your maintenance duties; but be careful not                
to allow the mature canopy to overlap your neighbors' lawn and                  
create extra work for them. Perhaps an even better use for                      
Aesculus species would be in a wild or natural setting where                    
cleanup could be eliminated altogether. Moist, deep, well-drained               
soil in full sun to partial shade satisfies most species.                       
                                                                                
 --------------                                                                 
                                                                                
I am planning a natural or 'wild' garden. I would like to know                  
where to get some plants without disturbing wild habitats.                      
                                                                                
The best source of native plants for a naturalistic garden is a                 
seedsman or nursery which specializes in such species. Plants                   
should not be collected from the wild. Unless the transplanting                 
is done with extreme care, collected plants are likely to die.                  
Wild plants should be left in their native location for all                     
to enjoy.                                                                       
                                                                                
Select species which are suitable for the soil conditions and                   
exposure of your garden. Do some research to find out whether the               
plants or seeds you desire are adapted to sun or shade, or for                  
moist or dry soils. Your must select species which are adapted to               
your particular garden, or adapt your growing area to fit                       
the plants' needs.                                                              
                                                                                
In caring for a wild garden, attempt to duplicate the conditions                
to which the plants were adapted in their native location. Only                 
moderate amounts of fertilizer are needed. A mulch of pine                      
needles, shredded leaves, peat moss, or similar organic material                
will be beneficial. For best results, pick a site with an                       
irregular terrain and the partial shade of established shrubs and               
trees.                                                                          
                                                                                
Be conservative in the use of wild flowers and native plants. If                
you are offered plants from a friend, gather only the small                     
quantity needed for a special purpose. Handle them carefully to                 
prevent wilting and damage, and get them replanted as soon as                   
possible.                                                                       
                                                                                
Occasionally, attractive wild plants are growing on construction                
sites. If you can get the landowner's permission allowing you to                
remove the plants, you may be able to save a plant with an                      
uncertain fate.                                                                 
                                                                                
 --------------                                                                 
                                                                                
I recently found a shrub in the undergrowth of a wooded area                    
which has a spicy aroma to its twigs. A friend calls it "wild                   
forsythia". What can you tell me about this bush? Is it ever                    
cultivated?                                                                     
                                                                                
Spicebush, sometimes called "forsythia of the wilds", technical-                
ly, is Lindera benzion. The shrub which grows from 6-12 feet in                 
height, when not crowded by other plants, is valuable as an                     
ornamental. In the early spring, the limbs are covered with tiny                
yellow blossoms (hence the name wild forsythia). In the fall,                   
the leaves turn a brilliant yellow especially when grown in full                
sun.                                                                            
                                                                                
The sweet fragrance of the leaves and the bark helps to identify                
the shrub. Smooth, deep green leaves produce a sweet, lemony                    
fragrance when crushed. The twigs and bark bear an especially                   
spicy scent, as do the red berries that are produced in fall. All               
plant parts have been used in potpourri.                                        
                                                                                
Spicebush can be difficult to transplant from the wild because of               
its coarse fibrous roots. Transplanted shrubs are slow to                       
re-establish themselves. If you wish to put one in your land-                   
scape, obtain a container grown nursery plant. Plant it in moist,               
well-drained soil where it will receive sun at least part of the                
day. In sunny spots, it will become a dense shrub with spring and               
fall interest.                                                                  
                                                                                
A taller Oriental species of Lindera can occasionally be found in               
garden centers. Japanese spicebush (L. obtusiloba) can be trained               
as a shrub or small tree (up to 20'). In fall, its deep yellow                  
leaves and shiny red fruits make it a desired ornamental.                       
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
Is possible to grow figs in Virginia?                                           
                                                                                
Fig production in Virginia is limited mainly to the warm coastal                
areas.  The plants are easily injured by cold and cannot be grown               
successfully without protection where winter temperatures                       
frequently drop below 20 F. Figs require a minimum of care and                  
are included in home plantings in the Tidewater area. Two                       
varieties of figs are recommended for planting in Virginia,                     
Celeste and Brown Turkey. Both are good for eating fresh when                   
fully ripe, and are excellent for preserving. A fair crop of                    
fruit may be expected the second year after planting. A single                  
plant will usually produce enough fruit for an entire family.                   
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
November Notes                                                                  
                                                                                
* Dead leaf stalks of perennial vegetables such as asparagus                    
and rhubarb should be cut to the ground after their tops are                    
killed by frost.                                                                
                                                                                
* Before storing your stakes and trellises, be sure they are                    
thoroughly cleaned of remnants of plant materials and dirt. Hose                
down all particularly dirty places. Put stakes in bundles and                   
stack them so they won't get lost over the winter. Roll up                      
trellis netting and tie it securely.                                            
                                                                                
* When time or weather conditions prohibit plowing or cover                     
cropping, you may wish to let your garden lie under a mulch                     
of compost, plant wastes, or leaves all winter. Plow or till                    
under the organic matter in spring. However, if you want to plant               
early next spring, a mulch of heavy materials such as whole                     
leaves may become matted and keep the soil cold long enough                     
to delay planting. Chop organic matter fine enough that it will                 
break down over winter.                                                         
                                                                                
* Clean, oil, and mend all hand tools. Repaint handles or identi-               
fication marks that have faded over the summer. Sharpen all                     
blades and remove any rust.                                                     
                                                                                
* Power tools should be cleaned of all plant material and dirt.                 
Replace worn spark plugs, oil all necessary parts, and sharpen                  
blades. Store all tools in their proper place indoors, never                    
outdoors where they will rust over the winter.                                  
                                                                                
* Select accent plants for your landscape that will provide                     
interesting autumn colors. Trees which turn red include dogwood,                
red maple, sweet gum, and red or scarlet oak. Shrubs with red                   
fall foliage include viburnum, winged euonymous, and barberry.                  
                                                                                
* Many perennials and rock garden plants may be planted or                      
divided and replanted during the fall. Set them out early enough                
to establish their roots before the ground freezes.                             
                                                                                
* Remove leaves from the gutters of your home to avoid overflow                 
during fall rains. Paint the inside of the gutters with rust                    
resistant paint to extend their life by many years.                             
                                                                                
* Peonies can be planted now in full sun and fertile, well-drain-               
ed soil rich in organic matter. Dig holes 18" and fill halfway                  
with a mixture of soil, compost, and a handful of 5-10-10                       
fertilizer. Add a few more inches of soil and set the roots so                  
buds are 1-2" below the soil surface. Backfill, firm the soil,                  
and water thoroughly. Peonies resent being moved and will                       
not bloom for several years. So, choose the original site                       
carefully and disturb only if absolutely necessary.                             
                                                                                
* Reduce peony botrytis blight and hollyhock rust by removing                   
and burning all old stems in fall. This will reduce the carry--                 
over of the diseases during winter and you will have less                       
trouble next year.                                                              
                                                                                
* Avoid transplanting shrubs and trees on sunny or windy days. On               
these days, roots are exposed to too much sun and drying winds                  
which puts undue stress on the plant.                                           
                                                                                
* Water pipes and outdoor faucets in the garden or patio should                 
be drained before cold weather occurs to prevent damage by freez-               
ing. Check guy wires around newly planted trees to be sure they                 
will not be damaged by windy weather during the fall and winter.                
                                                                                
* After the ground freezes, mulch small fruit plants such as                    
strawberries. One to two inches of straw or leaves is ideal for                 
strawberries. Small branches of evergreens may be used to keep                  
mulch in place.                                                                 
                                                                                
* After chrysanthemums have stopped blooming, cut stems back                    
close to the ground. Dispose of stems, dropped leaves and                       
branches.                                                                       
                                                                                
* The best way to prevent winter damage to shrubs is to select                  
hardy species when they are planted. Consult publications which                 
contain information on the climatic zones to which shrubs are                   
adapted. It is better to select hardy species in the first place                
than to attempt to protect tender plants later on.                              
                                                                                
* Watch for standing water in perennial beds after long periods                 
of rain. Water which collects on the surface during winter will                 
freeze and may damage perennials. Dig shallow trenches to help                  
drain excess water away. Make a note to raise the height of that                
bed in spring.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Dig up a vigorous rhubarb crown now if you are planning on                    
forcing stalks later this winter.                                               
                                                                                
* Protect concrete pools by covering them or by floating logs                   
in the water. Drain the water before freezing weather and place                 
a few boards or logs on the pool bottom to absorb the expansion                 
of freezing water that might accumulate.                                        
                                                                                
* Protect roots of azaleas and rhododendrons with a heavy                       
mulch of an acidic material such as oak leaves, aged sawdust, or                
pine needles.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Broadleaf evergreens may need to be protected to prevent drying               
out during the winter. Branches of pines or other evergreens                    
thrust into the ground around the plants work well. Where boughs                
are not plentiful, a screen of wooden boards, corn stalks or                    
burlap tacked to wooden frames will serve the purpose. Ideally,                 
these plants should be located out of severe winds.                             
                                                                                
* Caulk and plug any entrances around the home used by wasps                    
this past summer.                                                               
                                                                                
* If there is any evidence of scale on trees and shrubs, spray                  
with dormant oil in late fall and again in early spring.                        
                                                                                
* Remove grass and weeds from trunks of fruit trees and grapes                  
to prevent damage by mice and rodents. Leave a bare circle one                  
foot wide around tree trunks when spreading mulch to keep mice                  
from feeding on the bark. A collar or fence of poultry wire                     
or a commercial tree guard approximately 18" high will deter                    
rodents and rabbits.                                                            
                                                                                
* Newly planted shade trees especially those with smooth bark                   
are often injured by temperature fluctuations and strong winter                 
sunshine. Prevent sunscald by wrapping the tree trunks with                     
commercial tree wrap, 4" burlap strips, or simply shading with                  
a board against the south side of the trunk.                                    
                                                                                
* If you are planning on having a live, balled and burlapped                    
Christmas tree, dig a planting hole now before the ground                       
freezes. Fill the hole with straw or hay to keep it from freez-                 
ing. Storing the soil in a garage or shed will give you workable                
soil when you need it.                                                          
                                                                                
* Earthworms must remain below frost line to survive. Mulch                     
piled on top of soil raises the frost line. If you want earth-                  
worms to help break down organic matter in the upper soil                       
layers, mulch deeply. If you need the subsoil aerated, leave the                
surface mulch thin; the worms will burrow downward to stay warm.                
                                                                                
* If fall rains have been scarce, water landscape evergreens                    
thoroughly once every week or so until the ground freezes. Ever-                
greens continue to lose moisture from their foliage all winter;                 
but once the ground is frozen, they'll be unable to take up                     
enough water to replace water losses. Sending them into winter                  
well watered reduces the potential for damaged foliage. Broad-                  
leaved and tender evergreens exposed to drying winds and sun may                
need to be shaded on the south and southwest sides to reduce                    
moisture loss and foliage injury.                                               
                                                                                
* Keep the compost heap moist to aid in the decay process. Turn                 
the pile to mix in all late fall additions. Empty any fertilizer                
residues from open bags you are discarding onto the pile and                    
mix in.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Inspect trees and shrubs for bagworm capsules and the silvery                 
egg masses of tent caterpillars. Remove and destroy them to                     
reduce next year's pest population.                                             
                                                                                
* In Northern Virginia, gypsy moths are in the egg stage from now               
until April. Look for tan, fuzzy patches that look like a piece                 
of camel hair coat 1" long and 1/2" wide attached to trees,                     
rocks, fences, lawn furniture, wood piles and buildings. If you                 
find any, scrape them off and kill them in a jar of alcohol or                  
bleach. To confirm identification of the gypsy moth, bring                      
samples of the egg mass to your local extension service.                        
                                                                                
* Low spots in the lawn or irregularities in the surface may                    
be top-dressed using good soil. When not more than 2" of soil                   
is applied, the grass has a chance to come through again.                       
                                                                                
* Fertilize wisteria after leaves have fallen to avoid excess                   
top growth and lack of bloom.                                                   
                                                                                
* Now is a good time to clean out tangled, overgrown vines. Cut-                
ting out old and diseased wood will benefit the remaining                       
branches.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Dwarf fruit trees have a double purpose in furnishing flowers                 
in the spring, as well as fruit in the fall. They are particular-               
ly suited to small lots. Early November is a good time to plant                 
most fruit trees especially if a light mulch is applied to the                  
soil afterwards.                                                                
                                                                                
* Where circumstances necessitate very late planting of trees                   
and shrubs remember to dig the holes before the soil freezes if                 
possible, and mulch the area heavily to keep the ground thawed.                 
                                                                                
* Break the crust on the surface of any sawdust mulch you have                  
around blueberries, shrubs and perennials to improve the absorp-                
tion of water from fall rains.                                                  
                                                                                
* Rough plow or spade garden plots containing heavy, clay                       
soil. Add organic matter and lime if indicated by a soil test.                  
Leave the soil rough -- winter's thawing and freezing will break                
up the clods and kill some of the insects and slugs overwintering               
in the soil. A rough soil surface also catches more moisture and                
reduces erosion.                                                                
                                                                                
* If you use manure as a soil conditioner, apply it now and                     
till it under. Manure can be a source of weed seed. Composting                  
before application can reduce the number of viable seeds.                       
                                                                                
* Store pesticides in a frost-free location away from food                      
and out of the reach of children. If a pesticide is in a paper                  
container, put the whole package in a plastic container and                     
seal it. Be sure that all bottles and cans are tightly sealed                   
and well-labeled.                                                               
                                                                                
* Lock liquid pesticides where temperatures will not fall                       
below 40 degrees F. Too low a temperature may result in a                       
breakdown of the chemical. If the liquid should freeze, there is                
danger of the glass container breaking and scattering the                       
chemical in the storage area.                                                   
                                                                                
* Clean, dry, and put away sprayers and mixing equipment. Any-                  
thing that has been used with a weed-killer should be labeled for               
use only with herbicides. Herbicide residues may later damage                   
valuable plants that you spray with another mixture using the                   
same sprayer.                                                                   
                                                                                
* As soon as seed flats are emptied of fall transplants, wash                   
and sterilize them before storage so that you may use them immed-               
iately when you need them in spring.                                            
                                                                                
* African violets like a day temperature of 70 degrees F and                    
a night temperature of 65 degrees F. They may die if the air                    
temperature surrounding them stays below 55 degrees F for too                   
long. African violets do well under flourescent lights 12-14                    
hours a day; lights should be 8-12" from the plant.                             
                                                                                
* The watt rating of a bulb or tube indicates the electric                      
power it consumes, not the light intensity it generates. A fluor-               
escent tube produces more lumens (a somewhat arbitrary measure                  
of visible light emitted) than an incandescent bulb of the same                 
wattage.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Insufficient light will cause a jade plant to lose most of                    
its old, thick leaves and grow thin, new ones on spindly stems.                 
While it will survive low light, it needs as much direct sunlight               
as possible to look its best.                                                   
                                                                                
* Do not neglect to make successional sowings of vegetable                      
crops such as lettuce and radishes in the greenhouse. The secret                
to fresh food all winter is to sow small quantities frequently.                 
                                                                                
* Try dwarf varieties of annual flowers to use as house plants                  
this winter. Asters, calendulas, celosias, and marigolds come                   
in compact, colorful cultivars which can be maintained in the                   
home if sufficient light is provided.                                           
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
NOVEMBER 1986 QUESTION BOX                                                      
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by Virginia Nathan, Extension               
Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Home Horti-                 
culture. The Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed               
for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper features and                     
other educational programs.                                                     
                                                                                
Iron Chlorosis                                   63 lines                       
Weeping English Yew                              54 lines                       
Avoid Over Fertilizing Indoor Plants             53 lines                       
Scotch Broom                                     53 lines                       
Developing Resistant Varieties Takes Time        51 lines                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
IRON CHLOROSIS SIGNALS PROBLEMS                                                 
                                                                                
Chlorosis means "becoming green". The term was first applied to                 
a human condition in which the skin took on a greenish hue.                     
Today it is more frequently used to describe plants whose                       
normal color is green, but which have a condition which results                 
in a lack of green color in some leaves. Chlorosis in plants                    
results from nutrient deficiency, insufficient light, or certain                
virus diseases.                                                                 
                                                                                
The most frequent cause of chlorosis linked to nutrient deficien-               
cy is iron chlorosis. This develops when a plant is unable to                   
absorb enough iron from the soil. Sometimes the soil does not                   
contain enough iron; but most often iron is in the soil but in a                
chemical form which makes it unavailable to the plant. Soils with               
high pH (alkaline) often bind iron in a form plants cannot use.                 
                                                                                
Most plants do not develop iron chlorosis in neutral (pH 7) or                  
slightly acid soil, but begin to develop yellowing as soils                     
become more and more alkaline (pH>7). Such plants include                       
rose, iris, firethorn, spirea, apple and peach.                                 
                                                                                
Some plants require very acid soil and develop iron chlorosis                   
when they are grown in soils which are not acid enough. Such                    
plants include azaleas, rhododendron, holly, hydrangea, blueberry               
and pin oak.                                                                    
                                                                                
Iron chlorsis is different from other types of chlorosis; it                    
affects young, new leaves first. Other forms of chlorosis                       
often affect older foliage initially. Leaf color of plants                      
with chlorosis ranges from yellow-green to almost white. Leaves                 
showing iron chlorosis often retain green veins. In severe cases,               
leaf margins may be brown and die, and eventually entire plants                 
may be killed. Even in mild cases where yellowing is slight,                    
growth is reduced.                                                              
                                                                                
Iron chlorosis is usually associated with deficiency or unavaila-               
bility of iron in the soil but it may also appear when roots are                
damaged by overwatering, poor drainage, or overfertilization. Any               
condition that kills roots or does not allow feeder root develop-               
ment can lead to iron chlorosis.                                                
                                                                                
Treat iron chlorosis by eliminating the cause. A soil test will                 
determine soil pH. Alkaline soil, or soil which is not acid                     
enough, may be treated with sulfur or iron sulfate to make it                   
more acidic. Poorly drained soils should be improved and plants                 
subject to iron chlorosis should be watered carefully. The                      
color of plants several months after soil is amendmended will                   
indicate need for future treatment.                                             
                                                                                
To achieve temporary improvement in leaf color, there are                       
materials available for providing iron quickly to plants. Iron                  
chelates are organic compounds containing readily-absorbed iron.                
They can be placed in the soil for absorption by the roots or                   
sprayed in dilute form directly on the leaves. Since the chemical               
concentration of the compound may vary with manufacturer,                       
carefully follow directions given on the package.                               
                                                                                
When fertilizer is sprayed onto leaves the process is called                    
foliar fertilization. It is a good way to supply some nutrients,                
including iron, to plants rapidly, but foliar feeding is not a                  
substitute for good soil conditions. Foliar fertilizer can                      
supplement soil nutrition at a critical time, but to eliminate                  
iron chlorosis, correct the conditions causing it.                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
WEEPING ENGLISH YEW                                                             
                                                                                
Needle-leaf evergreens are valuable in the landscape because of                 
their fine texture and year-round color. Most needle-leaf                       
evergreens grow quite tall leaving few choices where a short,                   
delicate-looking evergreen is needed. Weeping English yew,                      
(Taxus baccata 'Repandens') is a low-growing conifer which may                  
fill the need for such a plant in your landscape.                               
                                                                                
The foliage of weeping English yew is attractive in both texture                
and color. New twigs have a feathery appearance. When mature,                   
twigs display a lustrous, dark green color giving the illusion                  
that the surface is wet. The plants weeping, compact habit                      
adds to the watery illusion as the branches are tiered in such a                
way that it looks like a series of cascades flowing from top to                 
bottom. When this plant is used in the shade, it gives a sensa-                 
tion of refreshing coolness, especially when planted near a                     
white flowering shrub or herbaceous plant.                                      
                                                                                
Weeping English yew develops bright red berries which are very                  
decorative however, the red fruits may be too attractive to                     
small children. Yews are among the most toxic of plants. Foliage,               
bark and seeds contain the greatest concentration of the toxin,                 
but no part of the plant should be ingested. Consider this fact                 
when choosing a site.                                                           
                                                                                
A very low growing plant, weeping English yew will reach a                      
maximum height of about 4 feet with a spread of up to 20 feet.                  
It is useful as an understory plant, in a shrub border, founda-                 
tion, corner or mass planting.                                                  
                                                                                
Different species of yews generally have the same growing                       
requirements. They can be transplanted in spring or fall. They                  
are generally sold balled and burlapped although some plants are                
now being marketed as container-grown. Yews prefer partial                      
shade, but can be successfully grown in sun or shade. Locate                    
plants where they will not be battered by severe winds.                         
                                                                                
The most important consideration when locating yews is good soil                
drainage. In wet soils they will slowly decline and die. In dry                 
spots they will lose their vigor. Modify the soil as necessary                  
to make it fertile and well-drained. Provide plants with suffi-                 
cient moisture at dry times.                                                    
                                                                                
'Repandens' is the most hardy cultivar of the English yews, all                 
of which are less hardy than the Japanese or Canadian species. It               
is resistant to most diseases but there are several insects to                  
watch for. Black vine weevil can pose a serious threat; lesser                  
problems can be caused by mealybugs, scale and yew gall-midge.                  
                                                                                
When sited correctly, weeping English yew is a four-season                      
plant of tremendous quality. The shrubs are naturally compact                   
and symmetrical and should require little corrective pruning. If                
allowed to retain it's natural form, weeping English yew can be                 
rivaled by few low-growing conifer.                                             
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
AVOID OVER FERTILIZING INDOOR PLANTS                                            
                                                                                
Fertilizing house plants is a question in plant care that gives                 
many new indoor plant owners a difficult time. The object                       
of growing plants indoors is to maintain a fairly steady, but                   
slow rate of growth. Since indoor plants are usually under less                 
than optimal environmental conditions such as light and humidity,               
fertilizer levels should be kept high enough to keep the plant                  
healthy but low enough to keep from injuring it. Over fertilizing               
seems to be more of a problem than under fertilizing.                           
                                                                                
The easiest form of fertilizer to use for indoor plants is the                  
water soluble form. Water-soluble fertilizer comes as a dry                     
compound or concentrated liquid which is diluted with water                     
before use.                                                                     
                                                                                
Slow release and organic fertilizers are also good for house                    
plants. Slow release fertilizers dispense nutrients to plants                   
slowly, usually over a period of months. They are available in                  
pellet or spike form. Organic fertilizers release nutrients more                
slowly than water-soluble fertilizers, but they must be mixed                   
into solution and applied more readily than slow-release formula-               
tions. Some organic fertilizers have an odor which is objection-                
able for indoor use. One drawback about slow release and organic                
fertilizers may be price. Both are expensive per unit of nutri-                 
ent. (See "Estimating the Cost of Convenience" The Virginia                     
Gardener, July 1982 for more information.)                                      
                                                                                
At this time of year, many plants begin a winter dormant period                 
during which they require no fertilizer. Even plants which do                   
not become dormant, require little, if any fertilizer, in the                   
winter because of lower ligh levels. You will observe the                       
greatest response to fertilizer applications during spring and                  
summer as the plants go through their growth flushes.                           
                                                                                
Symptoms of over and under fertilizing are quite varied and                     
depend on the particular nutrients involved. Symptoms range from                
stunting to leaf scorch, marginal necrosis (dead edges on leaves)               
to general chlorosis (leaf yellowing), reddening or purpling of                 
the foliage, and others. If you suspect a nutrient problem, it is               
best to consult your county agent or plant clinician who can                    
send a soil sample to the Va Tech Soil Lab to diagnose the                      
problem.                                                                        
                                                                                
The following are a few "don'ts" to remember about indoor plant                 
fertilzation: 1)Never apply fertilizers at concentrations greater               
than the label recommends. You may see better results by halving                
the recommended rate and applying the diluted mix more frequent-                
ly. 2)Never fertilize newly purchased plants as they need time to               
acclimate to their new environment. Many plants raised as indoor                
specimens have been grown under intense light and have been                     
heavily fertilized to promote rapid growth prior to sale. 3)Never               
fertilize diseased, insect-infested or environment-stressed                     
plants until they have recovered. Fertilizer is not a medicine.                 
SCOTCH BROOM                                                                    
                                                                                
Scotch broom (Cytisus scoparius) is a small shrub that draws                    
interest to itself at this time of year. Its small green leaves                 
have fallen, yet the fine textured shrub still appears grass                    
green. This is because the young stems of Scotch broom maintain                 
their green color all year making it an attractive landscape                    
plant especially in winter.                                                     
                                                                                
Although Scotch broom isn't used very much in the United States,                
large plantings of it can be seen at Montecello, Thomas Jeffer-                 
son's home. Jefferson used the plant extensively in his land-                   
scape, both where the green color would be appreciated in winter                
and where the bright yellow flowers could be enjoyed in late                    
spring. In Virginia, the plants have been used to stabilize                     
disturbed areas along road cuts.                                                
                                                                                
Scotch broom remains very popular in Europe as it was during                    
Jefferson's time. Plants grow to be five to six feet tall when                  
grown where they have ample room. In a tight situation such as a                
mixed shrub border, plants stretch upward reaching twice as tall.               
The plant's width equals or exceeds its height being widest when                
grown in an open area. Brooms will shed viable seed and can                     
establish large colonies. Locate plants where there is room for                 
it to spread.                                                                   
                                                                                
Winter interest makes Scotch broom an asset to the landscape,                   
but its most ornamental feature is a profusion of bright yellow                 
flowers that open in May to June. The blooms are borne along the                
the stems on old wood. To produce the best show of bloom year                   
after year, prune plants each summer shortly after the plant                    
ceases blooming.                                                                
                                                                                
There are over one hundred cultivars of brooms with flower                      
colors, ranging from white to yellow, red to purple, and all                    
kinds of color combinations. Most cultivars are difficult to find               
in nurseries; you may be able to order through a mail order                     
nursery to get the unusual ones.                                                
                                                                                
Pretty, long, grass-green stems of Scotch broom can be an asset                 
indoors as well as out. The stems work well as greenery in floral               
arrangements and can be molded into curved shapes for special                   
effects. Broom stems may be preserved by air drying small                       
clumps hung upside down in a warm location with good air circula-               
tion.                                                                           
                                                                                
Scotch broom is easy to grow, has few problems, and even thrives                
in poor conditions. It grows best in dry, sandy soil with full                  
sun but doesn't do well in fertile, wet soils. Plants tolerate a                
wide range in soil pH. It is a good choice for erosion control of               
a sandy, non-fertile area. Plants are hardy in Zone 5 to 8                      
making it a good plant thoughout the state. After a severe                      
winter, plants may exhibit some winter kill in the mountainous                  
plant of the state, but overall the shrubs do well in Virginia.                 
DEVELOPING PLANT VARIETIES WITH DISEASE RESISTENCE TAKES TIME                   
                                                                                
Plant diseases cause major garden losses in food production,                    
aesthetic quality and labor. Some varieties have natural resist-                
ance to particular diseases, but other varieties do not. Trans-                 
ferring  disease resistance is a common goal of plant patholog-                 
ists and plant breeders.                                                        
                                                                                
Before an improved variety with a particular disease resistance                 
is introduced to gardeners, many years of hard work and patience                
have preceded the release. Plant pathologists start the process                 
by identifying the organism causing a significant crop disease.                 
Screening tests in which the pathogen, host plants and environ-                 
mental conditions are varied, help pathologists learn how the                   
disease develops and what plants are affected. The next step                    
involves the search for resistance in the host plant. The                       
resistant trait may be found in a cultivated form of the plant,                 
but more often it is in a wild relative. The search may take only               
a few months but usually it takes years.                                        
                                                                                
Once resistance is identified in a plant, plant breeders must                   
determine if the genetic information for resistance can be                      
transferred to other plants. The plants are crossed by controlled               
pollination and plants from the resulting seed are tested.                      
                                                                                
If the genetic information is transferable, breeders then work on               
incorporating it into commercially acceptable types of food                     
crops. Finally, after many generations of crossing and resistance               
selection, the breeder is able to identify horticulturally                      
superior plants which carry the disease resistance genes. From                  
start to finish this process may take decades.                                  
                                                                                
Before the resistant variety can be released, an adequate supply                
of seed must be produced. The original or "breeder" seed is                     
multiplied by growing out the plants and allowing them to set                   
seed. A certifying agency assures that the seed is carefully                    
reproduced to avoid all possibilities of genetic alteration. Seed               
production may be contracted to private growers under supervision               
of the certifying agency.                                                       
                                                                                
The first, second and third generations of seed after breeders                  
seed are known as foundation, registered, and certified, respect-               
ively. Foundation and registered seed is used for further seed                  
production. Certified seed is available for sale for crop                       
production.                                                                     
                                                                                
It may take years before certified seed becomes widely available                
to gardeners. Seed companies choose the varieties they carry with               
great care. If you try a new variety, let the company know how it               
performed for you. If you have heard of a variety that you wish                 
to try, ask for it. Public demand plays an important role in                    
selection of seeds carried by a company.                                        
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
NOVEMBER 1986 QUESTION BOX                                                      
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan, Horticulture                     
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Special-               
ist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has                   
been developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                   
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
Pine Nuts                                    36 lines                           
Sweet Gum or Sour Gum Tree                   29 lines                           
Katsura Tree                                 26 lines                           
Hymenocallis (Ismene, Spider lily)           33 lines                           
Designing a Dry Streambed                    40 lines                           
Choosing a Tree Surgeon                      38 lines                           
Grafting Cactus with Glue                    29 lines                           
Vegetable Marrow Squash                      22 lines                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Can one grow the type of pines which produce pine nuts or pinons                
noted in some Italian recipes?                                                  
                                                                                
Shelled pine nuts are used in dished from Italian pesto to soups,               
salads, even eggnog and pies. Also called pinons, pinyons,                      
pignoli and Indian nuts, pine nuts are the edible seeds of many                 
pine trees. They are delicious, high in protein, and expensive to               
buy.                                                                            
                                                                                
Gardeners can grow species of pine which bear edible nuts almost                
anywhere in the U.S., however, one must be willing to wait 10-20                
years for the first crop. Several native species, as well as some               
from Mediterranean Europe and Asia, are handsome ornamentals that               
bear large nuts.                                                                
                                                                                
One of the most ornamental nut producing pines is Korean pine                   
(Pinus koraiensis). Hardy to -35 degrees F, it is a lavish                      
producer of nuts the size of pistachios. Trees grow to 40' in a                 
beautiful pyramidal shape branched to the ground. Korean pine                   
makes a fine specimen plant or windbreak tree. It can be grown                  
in Virginia.                                                                    
                                                                                
Swiss stone pine (P. cembra) is another ornamental pine with                    
edible nuts suitable for planting in Virginia. These trees                      
transplant better than most pines. An open area with well--                     
drained, loamy soil is best for the trees. Mature trees grow 40'                
tall and up to 25' wide.                                                        
                                                                                
Other pines with edible nuts grow well in other parts of the                    
country. In the Southwest. you may see Pinyon pine (P. cembroi-                 
des) which bears large seeds on small trees. In the South,                      
Italian stone pine (P. pinea) grows into a broad, umbrella-                     
shaped tree. This tree is grown commercially in southern Italy                  
and France for its superior nuts. In California, the native                     
torrey (P. torreyana) and digger (P. sabiniana) pines are                       
occasionally grown for their nuts and ornamental value.                         
                                                                                
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Are sweet gum and sour gum the same tree?                                       
                                                                                
Though sweet gum (Liquidambar styraciflua) and sour gum (Nyssa                  
sylvatica) are unrelated species, they are both native trees                    
which provide four-seasons of interest in the landscape. Both are               
hardy where temperatures do not go much below -15 degrees F.                    
                                                                                
Sweet gum is a beautifully symmetrical tree; its habit is conical               
when young and broadly pyramidal with age. Trees mature at 60-70'               
in height. Sweet gum has glossy, star-shaped leaves which are                   
strongly incense-scented when crushed.                                          
                                                                                
Sour gum tress are oval to pyramidal-shaped and grow 40' tall and               
25' wide. Its leaves are oval, dark green, lustrous and leathery.               
                                                                                
Both trees are outstanding autumn performers. Sour gum is one of                
the first to show color, becoming brilliant scarlet in early                    
September. Sweet gum is one of the last to turn and gives a                     
spectacular display in golds, reds, and smoky wine purples.                     
Winter brings out the picturesque branch structure of sour gum,                 
while sweet gum is noted for its corky-winged branches and                      
bur-like fruits useful for winter decorations.                                  
                                                                                
Both gums display dense canopies, have few pest problems, and                   
prefer moist, rich, deep loams. Sweet gum trees are best used in                
parks or at the edge of a large landscape as its spiny, round                   
seed capsules can appear messy in finely groomed turf. Sour gum                 
does best in wet soils and is a fine tree for swampy spots. Both                
trees are difficult to transplant; only nursery grown trees are                 
advised.                                                                        
                                                                                
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Will katsura tree do well in Virginia?                                          
                                                                                
Katsura is an Oriental tree handsome in all seasons. Hardy to -20               
degrees F, it makes an unusually fine lawn specimen. There are                  
two species: the single-stem Chinese species, Cercidiphyllum                    
japonicum, and the Japanese species, C. magnificum which usually                
forms several trunks and has wider leaves.                                      
                                                                                
Katsura trees are generally upright in form but sometimes quite                 
wide-spreading. They often grow over 100' tall in their native                  
habitat but in cultivation they range in height from 30 to 60'                  
and in width from 20-40'.                                                       
                                                                                
Broadly oval leaves, which resemble those of the redbud tree, are               
reddish-purple when they open and later become bluish-green.                    
Autumn foliage color is attractive, ranging from yellow to                      
pink and shades of red. Color may be affected by soil pH --                     
predominantly yellow in trees grown at pH of 6.5 to 7.5, but a                  
beautiful apricot-red at pH 5.5 to 6.                                           
                                                                                
Katsura is very handsome in winter, both from a distance and when               
viewed close-up where its shaggy bark, red-brown stems and                      
reddish buds are apparent. Trees have virtually no pest or                      
disease problems and can tolerate a wide range of sites. They do                
best in a moist, rich, well-drained soil in full sun. Nitrogen                  
fertilization and adequate water stimulates rapid sturdy growth                 
in young trees.                                                                 
                                                                                
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I have seen a picture of a summer bulb called spider lily                       
(Ismene) in a catalog. Can I grow this in Virginia?                             
                                                                                
Ismene is a tender bulb showing up in catalogs. Summer or                       
Peruvian daffodil are other names it is sold by. Its unique                     
spidery flowers have earned it the name of spider lily, but this                
common name can be confusing as the fall-blooming, red, pink or                 
orange Lycoris is also known by this name. The true botanical                   
name for ismene is Hymenocallis.                                                
                                                                                
There are about 25 species of Hymenocallis, some of which are                   
native to North America. In the southern U.S., native species                   
such as H. rotata are often transplanted into moist, fertile                    
sites in the garden, where they can be left in the ground over                  
winter. In the cold parts of Virginia, hymenocallis bulbs must be               
lifted before frost and stored in dry peat or sand at 60 degrees                
F or more.                                                                      
                                                                                
Planted in spring when the weather has warmed, spider lilies                    
bloom very quickly. Budded stems often shoot up a week or two                   
after planting. Clusters of 5-10 fragrant white or yellow flowers               
appear on stout leafless stems. Blooms last two weeks; succession               
planting gives a longer season of bloom. Glossy, green, strap--                 
shaped leaves spread upward as the flowers diminish.                            
                                                                                
The best known spider lilies are the white H. narcissiflora,                    
sometimes known as H. calathina. Its 18 to 24" flower stems bear                
up to 5 fragrant flowers. 'Advance' is a cultivar with larger                   
flowers; 'Sulfur Queen' is a yellow hybrid; and 'Festalis                       
Zwanenburg' is a white hybrid with twisted, elongated outer                     
petals. Some of the ismene sold in catalogues are either H.                     
latifolia or H. caribea, both native to the West Indies. These                  
species tend to be only 12" tall with eight or more funnel-shaped               
blooms.                                                                         
                                                                                
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Can a dry streambed like those seen in Oriental display gardens                 
be a part of a home landscape? How would you begin constructing                 
one?                                                                            
                                                                                
A dry streambed, an element in Oriental gardens, is not something               
many gardeners think of when designing their properties but it                  
can be a fine landscape feature in a garden of almost any size.                 
It may be purely decorative, or it may be functional, as a                      
channel for standing water or a stable gully during heavy rains.                
                                                                                
Your garden's topography, either natural or created by grading,                 
determines the kind of stream you design. Gentle slopes suggest                 
a meandering brook with perhaps some long curves widening                       
occasionally to small pools. Steeper slopes call for more of a                  
mountain stream design, narrow with falls and cascades.                         
                                                                                
By careful selection and placement of stones and rocks, you can                 
give the illusion of moving water in a dry streambed. For                       
example, using larger stones in the background and smaller ones                 
spaced more widely apart in the foreground will give the impress-               
ion that the water is moving in the viewer's direction. The same                
can be done with boulders lining the stream and with boulders                   
and rock slabs in the stream itself.                                            
                                                                                
Use clusters of small stones to balance larger ones. A strategi-                
cally placed rock that thrusts upward will add to the feeling of                
strongly moving water. Gravel used to fill in between the stones                
should thin out in "rapids" and heap up the edges of "falls".                   
                                                                                
Be sure to lay black plastic or one of the new weed mat fabrics                 
as the base of the dry bed. The feeling of the stream will                      
be lost if weed control is overlooked.                                          
                                                                                
Designing a dry streambed should not be done in haste. For best                 
results, observe streams in your region to see the types of rocks               
and how they have been shaped and oriented by the forces of the                 
water. Note plants on the banks, the occurrence of mosses and                   
lichens in shade, and the interplay of shapes, colors and                       
textures of living and non-living elements. Although you will not               
be able to use the same plants in a dry bed, you may be able to                 
emulate nature's design through wise plant choices.                             
                                                                                
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I need the help of good tree surgeon to correct and remove some                 
large trees. How would you choose a tree service?                               
                                                                                
According to the American Forestry Association, a key to good                   
tree service is finding professionals. You will have to seek out                
the best companies, since they're generally so busy that they                   
don't have time to go around seeking jobs door-to-door. Companies               
that are members of either the National Arborist Association or                 
the International Society of Arboriculture are generally reli-                  
able.                                                                           
                                                                                
For major jobs contact more than one company for evaluations and                
estimates. Steer clear of people who routinely suggest tree                     
topping (pollarding). The better alternative to topping for                     
trees needing their tops reduced is selective pruning.                          
                                                                                
Don't accept a casual statement that a company is "fully in-                    
sured". Ask for a copy of the certificate of insurance and for                  
details on workman's compensation.                                              
                                                                                
Unusually low estimates are clues that a company may be "fly-by--               
night". You should expect the following in a proposal from a                    
reputable firm:                                                                 
    Starting date.                                                              
    Details of the work to be done, explicitly noting any                       
         chemicals to be used.                                                  
    Cleanup work to be done.                                                    
    Completion date.                                                            
    Total price.                                                                
                                                                                
You should pay when billed, not in advance. Don't pay if you're                 
unhappy with the work; instead, see the company immediately                     
for corrections.                                                                
                                                                                
Try to schedule work during the winter to take advantage of lower               
rates offered by some companies during their slow season.                       
Discount rates may be available for work done for several people                
in a neighborhood, so ask your nearby friends if they've been                   
planning to have tree work done, too.                                           
                                                                                
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Do you believe that cacti can be grafted together with glue?                    
                                                                                
Grafting of cactus is easy with cyanoacrylate adhesive (Super                   
Glue* TM) and other similar products. (It isn't clear yet whether               
or not some commercial brands of cyanoacrylate adhesive are                     
better than others for cactus grafting.) A recent article in the                
Hort Science, the journal of the American Society for Horticul-                 
tural Science contained these simple instructions for glue                      
grafting cacti.                                                                 
                                                                                
Steps for gluing a cactus:                                                      
    1)Cut off the top of the rootstock and the bottom of the                    
scion (the top stock) horizontally. Don't dry off the wet cut                   
surfaces as the wetness actually accelerates the union of the                   
stock and scion.                                                                
    2)Squeeze out a small amount of adhesive onto the outer                     
ring (cortex) of the cut in the rootstock, or put the glue on                   
the scion if it is more convenient. Avoid covering the central                  
core of the cut with adhesive. To avoid glue coagulation on the                 
adhesive dispenser tip, don't touch the tip to the wet cut                      
surface.                                                                        
    3)Press the cut surfaces together for about 10 seconds                      
before leaving the graft to heal.                                               
                                                                                
*Trade Mark                                                                     
Trade and brand names are used only for the purpose of informa-                 
tion and the Virginia Cooperative Extension Service does not                    
guarantee nor warrant the standard of the product, nor does it                  
imply approval of the product to the exclusion of other, which                  
may also be suitable.                                                           
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I have seen a squash called vegetable marrow being sold at a                    
roadside stand. What is it used for? How do I know when it's                    
ripe?                                                                           
                                                                                
A "new" summer squash vegetable marrow is appearing in the                      
markets. Seedsmen are beginning to offer it to gardeners, too.                  
                                                                                
Vegetable marrow has long been popular in Europe and Canada but                 
it's hardly know in the U.S. Marrows have a delicate flavor and                 
non-string, melting texture. They're also as easy to grow and as                
prolific as any zucchini.                                                       
                                                                                
`White Bush', sometimes sold as `Long White', is the most popular               
variety. Its fruits, which should be harvested when 8" long, are                
oblong and faintly ribbed. The skin is creamy white and the flesh               
pale green. `Green Bush' and `Long Green Striped' produce larger,               
green-skinned fruits.                                                           
                                                                                
Italian vegetable marrow or cocozelle has a dark green skin with                
light green stripes. It is an excellent squash for areas with                   
very hot summers. There's also cousa, a Middle Eastern marrow                   
sometimes called the Lebanese zucchini, which produces very high                
yields of small pale green fruits on bushy plants.                              
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
November Notes 1987                                                             
                                                                                
Herbaceous Plants                                                               
                                                                                
* After chrysanthemums have stopped blooming, cut stems back                    
close to the ground and dispose of stems and all dropped and                    
dried leaves and branches.                                                      
                                                                                
* Reduce peony botrytis blight and hollyhock rust by removing and               
burning all old stems this fall. This will reduce the carry-over                
of the diseases during the winter and you will have less trouble                
next year.                                                                      
                                                                                
*  Try dwarf varieties of annual flowers to use as house plants                 
this winter. Asters, calendulas, celosias, and marigolds come in                
compact, colorful cultivars which can be maintained in the home                 
if sufficient light is provided.                                                
                                                                                
* Peonies can be planted now in full sun and fertile, well-drain-               
ed soil rich in organic matter. Dig holes 18" and fill halfway                  
with a mixture of soil, compost, and a handful of 5-10-10                       
fertilizer. Add a few more inches of soil and set the tubers so                 
the buds are 1-2" below the soil surface. Backfill, firm the                    
soil, and water thoroughly. Peonies resent being moved and will                 
not bloom for several years. So, disturb only if necessary.                     
                                                                                
*  Now is a good time to clean out tangled, overgrown vines. Cut-               
ting out old and diseased wood will benefit the remaining vines.                
                                                                                
* Watch for standing water in perennial beds after long periods                 
of rain. Water which collects on the surface during winter will                 
freeze and may damage perennials. Dig shallow trenches to help                  
drain excess water away. Make a note to raise that bed in spring.               
                                                                                
Woody Ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* If you are planning on having a live, balled and burlapped                    
Christmas tree, dig a planting hole now before the ground                       
freezes. Fill the hole with straw or hay to keep it from freez-                 
ing. Storing the soil in a garage or shed will give you workable                
soil when you need it.                                                          
                                                                                
* If there is any evidence of scale on trees and shrubs, spray                  
with dormant oil in late fall and again in early spring.                        
                                                                                
* Newly planted shade trees especially those with smooth bark are               
often injured by temperature fluctuations and strong winter                     
sunshine. Prevent sunscald by wrapping the tree trunks with 4"                  
burlap strips or simply by shading with a board against the south               
side of the trunk.                                                              
                                                                                
*  Inspect trees and shrubs for bagworm capsules and the silvery                
egg masses of tent caterpillars. Remove and destroy them to                     
reduce next year's pest population.                                             
                                                                                
*  If fall rains have been scarce, water landscape evergreens                   
thoroughly once every week or so until the ground freezes. Ever-                
greens continue to lose moisture from their foliage all winter;                 
but once the ground is frozen, they'll be unable to take up                     
enough water to replace it. Sending them into winter well watered               
reduces the potential for damaged foliage.                                      
                                                                                
*  Broadleaved and tender evergreen shrubs exposed to drying                    
winds and sun may need to be shaded on the south and southwest                  
sides to reduce moisture loss and foliage injury.                               
                                                                                
* Protect the roots of azaleas and rhododendrons with a heavy                   
mulch of organic material such as oak leaves, pine needles or                   
wood chips.                                                                     
                                                                                
*  Fertilize wisteria after leaves have fallen to maintain vigor                
without excess top growth and reduced bloom.                                    
                                                                                
* Select accent plants for your landscape that will provide                     
interesting autumn colors. Trees which turn red include dogwood,                
black gum, red maple, sweet gum, and red or scarlet oak. Shrubs                 
with red fall foliage include viburnum, winged euonymous, and                   
barberry.                                                                       
                                                                                
*  Explore bonsai - the ancient oriental art of dwarfing and                    
shaping container grown trees. Many libraries have how-to books                 
on the subject. Plants suitable for bonsai work that may be                     
treated as houseplants include pyracantha, common myrtle,                       
gardenia and small leaved azaleas. These miniature trees make                   
fascinating displays in all stages of training.                                 
                                                                                
* Broadleaf evergreens may need to be protected to prevent drying               
out during the winter. Branches of pines or other evergreens                    
thrust into the ground around the plants work well. Where boughs                
are not plentiful, a screen of wooden boards, corn stalks or                    
burlap tacked to wooden frames will serve the purpose.                          
                                                                                
* However, the best way to prevent winter damage to shrubs is to                
select hardy species when they are planted. Consult publications                
which contain information on the climatic zones to which shrubs                 
are adapted. It is better to select hardy species in the first                  
place than to attempt to protect tender plants later on.                        
                                                                                
*  Trim hollies and other evergreens such as magnolia, aucuba,                  
boxwood and pyracantha to furnish material for Thanksgiving                     
decorations.                                                                    
                                                                                
*  Renovation of overgrown deciduous shrubs is easier after leaf                
fall. Begin by removing all diseased or broken stems. Next,                     
remove 1/3 of all remaining shoots, eliminating the oldest and                  
tallest. If the bush is still too tall, cut the remaining stems                 
to a side bud or branch. Repeat the process in the second or                    
third year to complete renovation.                                              
                                                                                
*  Nurserymen and landscape architects may be less busy over the                
next few months and be more available to help you with plans for                
improving your landscape.                                                       
                                                                                
* Avoid transplanting shrubs and trees on sunny or windy days. On               
these days, the roots are exposed to too much light or drying                   
winds which puts undue stress on the plant.                                     
                                                                                
*  Where circumstances necessitate very late planting of trees                  
and shrubs remember to mulch the area heavily to keep the ground                
from freezing as early so the roots can become established.                     
                                                                                
*  A November application of fertilizer is very beneficial to the               
lawn. It promotes root development without excessive top growth.                
With a strong root system your lawn is better able to withstand                 
drought conditions. If a November application is used, you won't                
need an early spring application.                                               
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
*  If you've purchased gourds this year as decorations, plan to                 
grow them yourself next year. They make great garden projects for               
kids.                                                                           
                                                                                
*  Do not neglect to make successional sowings of vegetable crops               
such as lettuce and radishes in the greenhouse. The secret to                   
fresh food all winter is to sow small quantities frequently.                    
                                                                                
* Dead leaf stalks of perennial vegetables such as asparagus and                
rhubarb should be cut to the ground after their tops are killed                 
by frost.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Dig up a vigorous rhubarb crown now if you are planning on                    
forcing stalks later this winter.                                               
                                                                                
*  Be sure not to store apples or pears with vegetables. The                    
fruits give off ethylene gas which speeds up the breakdown of                   
vegetables and will cause them to develop off-flavors.                          
                                                                                
Fruits/Nuts                                                                     
                                                                                
* After the ground freezes, mulch strawberries with 2 -5 inches                 
of straw or leaves to prevent heaving caused by thawing and                     
freezing of the ground. Small branches may be used to keep mulch                
in place.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Remove grass and weeds from trunks of fruit trees and grapes to               
prevent damage by mice and rodents. Leave a bare circle six                     
inches out from the tree trunk when spreading mulch to keep mice                
from feeding on the bark. A collar or fence of poultry wire or a                
commercial tree guard approximately 18" high will deter rodents                 
and rabbits.                                                                    
                                                                                
*  Break the crust on the surface of any sawdust mulch you have                 
around blueberries, shrubs and perennials to improve the absorp-                
tion of water from fall rains.                                                  
                                                                                
*  Dwarf fruit trees have a double purpose in furnishing flowers                
in the spring, as well as fruit in the fall. They are particular-               
ly suited to small lots. Early November is a good time to plant                 
most fruit trees. Apply a mulch to the soil afterwards.                         
                                                                                
*  Remove all mummified fruit from fruit trees and grape vines,                 
rake up and destroy those on the ground. Also, rake and burn                    
apple and cherry leaves. Good sanitation practices reduce                       
reinfestation of insects and diseases the following season.                     
                                                                                
Indoor Plants                                                                   
                                                                                
*  Be sure to close shades at night to insulate window plants                   
from cold outdoor temperatures.                                                 
                                                                                
*  Remember cactus go dormant during the winter so be sure to                   
keep them cool (around 50 degrees F) and withhold water until                   
they show signs of growth in spring.                                            
                                                                                
*  Insufficient light will cause a jade plant to lose most of its               
old, thick leaves and grow thin, new ones on spindly stems. While               
it will survive low light, it needs as much direct sunlight as                  
possible to look its best.                                                      
                                                                                
*  African violets like a day temperature of 70 degrees F and a                 
night temoerature of 65 degrees F. They may die if the air                      
temperature dips below 55 degrees F. African violets do well                    
under flourescent lights 12-14 hours a day; lights should be 8-12               
inches from the plant.                                                          
                                                                                
*  For an exotic houseplant, try growing a mango tree. Deep                     
within the flesh of the mango fruit there is a large hairy husk                 
and within this is the seed. Scrape the fruit from the husk and                 
allow it to dry overnight. The next day nick the husk and gently                
pry it open with a dull knife. The seed is very large and is best               
started in a plastic bag filled with damp sphagnum moss. It will                
germinate in 2-3 weeks and will become a slow growing leathery-                 
leaved tree.                                                                    
                                                                                
Tools and Equipment                                                             
                                                                                
*  Rinse pesticide spray equipment after each use and before                    
winter storage. Add water and several drops of detergent to fill                
the spray tank 1/10th full. Shake the tank and spray the water in               
a save location. Caution: rinsing will not remove herbicides from               
sprayers. A seperate sprayer must be used to apply herbicides to                
prevent the residue from killing plants when other pesticides are               
applied.                                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
* Water pipes and outdoor faucets in the garden or patio should                 
be drained before cold weather to prevent damage by freezing.                   
                                                                                
*Check guy wires around newly planted trees to be sure they will                
not be damaged by windy weather during the fall and winter.                     
                                                                                
*  Fluorescent lighting makes a collection of African violets                   
thrive where there is little or no light. To create your own                    
setup use two fluorescent tubes - one cool blue and one warm red                
  with a reflector to focus the light on the plants. Hang the                   
lights 12-18 in. above most plants. The tubes give off less light               
then the center; arrange plants accordingly.                                    
                                                                                
*  The watt rating of a light bulb indicates the electric power                 
it consumes, not the light intensity it generates. A flourescent                
tube produces more lumens (a somewhat arbitrary measure of                      
visible light emitted) than an incandescent bulb of the same                    
wattage.                                                                        
                                                                                
*  As soon as seed flats are emptied of fall transplants, wash                  
and sterilize them before storage so that you may use them immed-               
iately when you need them in spring.                                            
                                                                                
* Caulk and plug any entrances around the home used by wasps this               
past summer.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Power tools should be cleaned of all plant material and dirt.                 
Replace worn spark plugs, oil all necessary parts, and sharpen                  
blades. Store all tools in their proper place indoors, never                    
outdoors where they will rust over the winter.                                  
                                                                                
* Drain concrete pools before freezing weather and place a few                  
boards or logs on the pool bottom to absorb the expansion of                    
freezing water that might accumulate.                                           
                                                                                
* Before storing your stakes and trellises, be sure they are                    
thoroughly cleaned of remnants of plant materials and dirt. Hose                
down all particularly dirty places. Put stakes in bundles and                   
stack them so they won't get lost over the winter. Roll up                      
trellises and tie them securely.                                                
                                                                                
* Clean, oil, and mend all hand tools. Repaint handles and                      
identification marks that have faded over the summer. Sharpen all               
blades and remove any rust.                                                     
                                                                                
Misc.                                                                           
                                                                                
*  Weave garlic, onions or dried chilies together to create                     
holiday wreaths with a gourmet twist.                                           
                                                                                
*  Keep the compost heap moist to aid in the decay process. Turn                
the pile to mix in all late fall additions. Empty any fertilizer                
residues from open bags you are discarding onto the pile and mix.               
                                                                                
* Earthworms must remain below frost line to survive. Mulch piled               
on top of soil raises the frost line. If you want earthworms to                 
help break down organice matter in the upper soil layers, mulch                 
deeply. If you need the subsoil aerated, leave the surface mulch                
thin; the worms will burrow downward to stay warm.                              
                                                                                
* When time or weather conditions prohibit plowing or cover                     
cropping, you may wish to let your garden lie under a mulch of                  
compost, plant wastes, or leaves all winter to be plowed or                     
tilled under in the spring. However, if you want to plant early                 
the next spring, a heavy mulch may keep the soil cold long enough               
to delay planting. Chop organic matter fine enough that it will                 
break down over winter.                                                         
                                                                                
*  Store liquid pesticides where temperatures will not fall below               
40 degrees F. Too low a temperature may result in a breakdown of                
the chemical. If the liquid should freeze, there is the  danger                 
of the glass container breaking and leaking the chemical in the                 
storage area.                                                                   
                                                                                
*  Store pesticides in a frost-free location away from food and                 
out of the reach of children. If a pesticide is in a paper                      
container, put the whole package in a plastic container and seal                
it. Be sure that all bottles and cans are tightly sealed and                    
well-labeled.                                                                   
                                                                                
*  Apply manure as a soil conditioner now and till it                           
under. Manure can be a source of weed seed. Composting before                   
application can reduce the number of viable seeds.                              
                                                                                
*  Rough plow or spade garden plots containing heavy, clay                      
soil. Add organic matter and lime if indicated by a soil test. -                
Leave the soil rough -- winter's thawing and freezing will break                
up the clods and kill some of the insects and weeds overwintering               
in the soil. A rough soil surface also catches more moisture and                
reduces erosion.                                                                
                                                                                
*  Set up an aquarium to display beautiful waterplants and fish.                
Search pet shops for interesting varieties or try introducing                   
water loving houseplants such as Nephthitus. For healthier plants               
and possible flower production allow them to grow out of the                    
water and trail over the sides of the aquarium.                                 
                                                                                
*  Order seed catalogs now for garden planning in January. For                  
excitement consider companies that specialize in old and rare                   
varieties or wildflowers.                                                       
                                                                                
*  The gypsy moth is in the egg stage from now until April. Look                
for tan, fuzzy patches that look like a piece of camel hair coat                
1" long and 1/2" wide attached to trees, rocks, fences, lawn                    
furniture, wood piles and buildings. If you find any, scrape them               
off and kill them in a jar of alcohol or bleach. To confirm                     
identification of the gypsy moth, bring samples of the egg mass                 
to your local extension service.                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Press Releases November 1987                                                    
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Extension                   
Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Home Horti-                 
culture, working with Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab. The               
Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed for agent                  
use in preparing radio and newspaper features and other                         
educational programs.                                                           
                                                                                
Severe Tree Topping Not Recommended                   44 lines                  
Horticulture Is Therapy                               49 lines                  
Ivy as Houseplants                                    64 lines                  
Pruning Vines                                         83 lines                  
Sweet Potatoes - A Complete Nutritious Food           53 lines                  
Common Insects of Boxwood                             28 linesSevere Tree Toppi
                                                                                
Homeowners often get the urge to top or dehorn yard trees. This                 
practice does not improve the quality or function of shade trees                
and often causes serious permanent damage. Power line maintenance               
personnel sometimes top or extensively trim trees under or near                 
power lines. They have a legal right to do so since the lines                   
must be protected. To avoid this problem, always plant trees away               
from power lines or choose small species that will not reach the                
lines.                                                                          
                                                                                
In topping, large branches are cut back to stubs or all the way                 
back to the trunk. The large wounds take a long time to heal and                
encourage attack by diseases and insects. Severe topping of a                   
large tree may kill it.                                                         
                                                                                
Topping causes a proliferation of buds at the point where the                   
branch was cut. Shoots then rise from these buds, forming a dense               
bush at the end of the branch. This dense growth is weakly                      
attached and is subject to easy breakage by wind storms. The                    
growth does not appear natural, nor is it aesthetically pleasing.               
                                                                                
This new vigorous growth strains the tree's root system, since                  
food reserves are used to support it. Thus, the tree's root                     
system is weakened and its overall vigor is reduced, making the                 
tree more susceptible to attack from insects, diseases and                      
adverse environmental conditions. Sunscald can occur early in the               
season because the inner branches are exposed to the direct rays                
of the sun. Severely limiting the crown development can reduce                  
food manufacturing in the leaves.                                               
                                                                                
Topping reduces a tree's size and life expectancy, therefore                    
decreasing its value in the landscape. Knowledgeable appraisers                 
severely reduce the value of a topped or dehorned tree.                         
                                                                                
Most mature shade trees require no pruning. However, when                       
necessary, proper pruning involves removing unwanted or damaged                 
branches from the tree crown with a minimum of large branches                   
being cut. This practice is not nearly as noticeable as topping,                
retains the crown shape, and provides good air movement and light               
penetration.                                                                    
                                                                                
Trees are a long-term investment and proper pruning and care will               
help protect that investment.Horticulture Is Therapy                           
                                                                                
Any enthusiastic gardener knows that gardening is good                          
preventative therapy. A few minutes in the garden and the worries               
of the day begin to melt away. It is possible to work off anger                 
and frustration in the garden with a sharp hoe or a pair of                     
pruner and improve the plants at the same time.                                 
                                                                                
However, most gardeners are not aware that working with plants is               
now being used as a form of treatment for many physical and                     
mental problems. Horticultural therapy as a recognized profession               
is relatively new. Only in the last few years has it been                       
posssible for someone to receive university training to prepare                 
for a career in this field.                                                     
                                                                                
At the turn of the century, before professionals recognized the                 
beneficial change that occurred in their patients from working                  
with plants, gardening was looked on as mere diversion or perhaps               
a job to help pay the expenses of indigent patients. Today                      
horticulture is part of the prescribed treatment plan in                        
psychiatric hospitals, veterans hospitals, rehabilitation                       
centers,and similar facilities.                                                 
                                                                                
Staff at nursing homes find that plants give residents an added                 
interest in the future as they anticipate the first ripe tomatoes               
or await the opening of a flower. When the residents have                       
complete responsibility for the plants there is a special pride                 
and a sense of nuturing that is too often missing in these                      
settings.                                                                       
                                                                                
Prison programs have found that prisoners who go through their                  
horticulture program generally have a better record of                          
rehabilitation than those that have been in other program                       
areas. Many prisons in Virginia have gardens, farms or                          
greenhouses.                                                                    
                                                                                
One of the areas in which horticulture has been most effective in               
changing the lives of handicapped individuals is in the                         
vocational training of mentally retarded individuals. Throughout                
the country there are numerous vocational schools and training                  
centers that prepare their graduates for jobs in the horticulture               
industry. Grounds maintenance and indoor plant maintenance are                  
two of the major areas of training. Such greenhouse and nursery                 
skills as transplanting and watering are also marketable.                       
                                                                                
Next time you are working the garden and the heavy frown you                    
brought home from the office disappears, think about the small                  
ways in which horticulture changes your life and the major way it               
is changing the life of many others.                                            
                                                                                
Ivy as House Plants                                                            
                                                                                
Many types of ivy can be used as house plants. They are grown                   
primarily for their attractive foliage. As potted plants they can               
be trained in several forms such as a compact mound, on a small                 
trellis or around a window, or trailing over the edge of an                     
elevated container.                                                             
                                                                                
Although ivy will thrive under subdued light conditions which are               
not suitable for flowering plants, some exposure to sun is                      
necessary. Locate ivy plants in a north or east window. Avoid                   
direct, hot sun. Fluorescent lights can be used to stimulate                    
growth in locations where plants do not receive direct sunlight.                
                                                                                
The air should be as fresh and humid as possible. The humidity                  
around the plants can be increased by placing the pots on crushed               
stones in a tray containing water. The pots should not be in the                
water because the soil would remain saturated and result in poor                
growth and possible stem rot.                                                   
                                                                                
Ivy should receive enough water to maintain moderate but not                    
excessive moisture in the soil. Provide good drainage to reduce                 
the possibility of overwatering.                                                
                                                                                
Several of the outdoor ivies can be used as house plants. These                 
plants make good growth even in the relatively dry atmosphere of                
the average home. English Ivy, (Hedera helix), is the most common               
species having rather large, glossy green leaves. The rampant                   
growth remains attractive during all seasons of the year. The                   
cultivar named 'Hahn's Self-branching' produces many short side                 
branches and is one of the best as a house plant.                               
                                                                                
Variegated forms of ivy with green and white leaves are popular                 
as accent plants. They grow less vigorously than the solid green                
types, and seem somewhat more susceptible to disease and insects.               
'Williamsiana' variegated ivy is a good variety.                                
                                                                                
The 'Albany' ivy is a bushy type which does not climb or trail,                 
but forms a dense, broad plant with leaves like small English                   
Ivy. It is somewhat susceptible to black spot.                                  
                                                                                
In addition, there are tropical plants also known as ivy which do               
well as houseplants.                                                            
                                                                                
Grape Ivy, (Cissus rhombifolia), is an easy to care for plant                   
with rich green, glossy leaves. It prefers bright indirect light                
and night temperatures in the 50's.                                             
                                                                                
Kangaroo Vine Ivy, (Cissus antarctica), has leathery, serrated,                 
four-inch leaves on wiry red stems. It is easily propogated by                  
cuttings and is replacing the Grape Ivy in popularity in some                   
localities.                                                                     
                                                                                
Devil's Ivy or Pothos, (Epipremnum aureum), is a tender climbing                
plant similar to philodendron but with oval lance-shaped green                  
leaves spotted with yellow. Several varieties are available.                    
                                                                                
German Ivy, (Senecio mikanioides), is a tender twining house                    
plant with clear green ivy-like leaves which are two to four                    
inches long. However, the flowers have a very unpleasant odor.                  
                                                                                
Swedish Ivy, (Plectranthus australis), is a fast growing plant                  
with irregularly rounded leaves. They prefer a constantly moist                 
soil and bright indirect light.                                                 
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Pruning Vines                                                                  
                                                                                
The main purpose of pruning vines is to limit growth, remove dead               
wood, and thin stems and branches. Pruning also helps promote new               
growth and improve flowering. Some fast growing vines can be                    
severly cut back to induce growth close to the ground, others                   
require periodic severe pruning or complete cut-back at or near                 
the ground level. Severe pruning is not harmful if done in the                  
spring before new growth starts.                                                
                                                                                
The growth and development of vines are influenced by the type of               
support they have. It is important to know how a vine climbs in                 
order to provide the best support and increase ease of                          
maintenance.                                                                    
                                                                                
One group of vines climbs by attachment to the wall or support                  
with rootlike hold fasts or modified tendrils with circular                     
discs. A second group climbs by winding tendrils around a wire                  
support or trellis, others climb by twining the vine itself                     
around the support.                                                             
                                                                                
The general principles of pruning ornamental shrubs also apply to               
vines. Always prune back to a lateral branch, twig, or bud and do               
not leave a stub. Prune the dead, weak and thin wood back to                    
healthy wood. Annual thinning of the old and weak stems                         
encourages new growth. Thin crowded stems by cutting them to the                
ground. Some vines grow so thick and fast that much pruning is                  
necessary. Weak or slow growing vines require little pruning.                   
                                                                                
Some common vines make rapid vertical growth with few lateral                   
branches except near the top. These vines can be pinched and tied               
or leaders can be pruned back in the growing season to develop                  
more horizontal growing branches to cover the desired areas                     
quicker. Then vertical growth can be allowed to develop where                   
needed. Horizontal branches tend to grow slower and produce more                
leaves and flowers than vertical branches.                                      
                                                                                
The best time to prune most vines is the dormant season before                  
new growth begins. Early spring flowering vines should be pruned                
after they flower, since new growth that develops after pruning                 
produces buds for the next year. Vines that flower on growth made               
in the current year, as do many of the hybrid clematis, can be                  
pruned in early spring a few feet to a few inches from the                      
ground.                                                                         
                                                                                
Each individual must use his own imagination and sense of beauty                
to train vines for specific design or landscape need. Some                      
pruning requirements of specific plants follow:                                 
                                                                                
Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata): Prune branches to                     
control spreading.                                                              
                                                                                
Clematis: Determine if the vine blooms on the previous year or                  
current year wood according to the cultivar type. Prune after                   
bloom for early spring flowering types and before new growth                    
begins for later flowering types. Flowers are produced on long                  
stems that grow during that season.                                             
                                                                                
Wintercreeper (Euonymus radicans): A useful vine and ground                     
cover. Prune the branches back to control spreading or stems                    
growing out from a support.                                                     
                                                                                
There are a number of rampant growing vines available for special               
use in the landscape. Select cultivars that are easier to control               
but continue to monitor their growth, pruning to maintain them                  
within bounds.                                                                  
                                                                                
Dutchman's Pipe (Aristolochia durior): A rapid grower, often used               
to cover porches, cut the top back to control size and induce                   
branching. Thin out older stems to promote new growth.                          
                                                                                
Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica): A serious woodland weed in the                 
Mid-Atlantic region must be kept under control or other species                 
grown.                                                                          
                                                                                
Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans): Each year cut stems back                    
three to four buds to promote new growth. Cut tops back to                      
encourage the vine to branch. C. radicans 'Flava,'is a large                    
blooming cultivar.                                                              
                                                                                
Wisteria: Prune back stems to three or four buds each year to                   
promote new growth and flowers. The tops can be cut back to                     
induce branching.                                                               
                                                                                
Sweet Potatoes - A Complete Nutritious Food                                    
                                                                                
Horticulture crops supply many of our favorite foods. Among these               
are sweet potatoes which are ideal for providing variety during                 
the fall and winter seasons.                                                    
                                                                                
The sweet potato is a member of the morning glory family,                       
(Ipomoea), and forms vines along the ground. It rarely produces                 
flowers, except in extreme southern regions which have a long                   
growing season. The edible sweet potato is a swollen or tuberous                
root. It is quite different from a white potato which is a                      
enlarged underground stem called a tuber.                                       
                                                                                
Unlike the white potato which is started from pieces of the                     
tuber, propagation by means of transplants or slips is the common               
way to start sweet potatoes. Roots selected for the growing of                  
slips are placed in a heated bed and covered with a layer of                    
sand. Small plants arise from the sprouting nodes or eyes of the                
roots in about six weeks. The plants can be harvested several                   
times from these same roots and planted out for successive crop                 
plantings. Plant sweet potatoes on hills or mounds in a                         
relatively sandy soil. High amounts of fertilizer are not                       
reccommended since this tends to induce vegetative growth instead               
of root development.                                                            
                                                                                
Sweet potatoes originated in the tropics, probably in Mexico or                 
South America. Columbus mentioned this plant in the records of                  
his fourth voyage. It is believed he also observed it on earlier                
expeditions to the West Indies. Because of its tropical origin,                 
the sweet potato will thrive only in a warm climate with an                     
average temperature above 70 degrees F. during July and August.                 
The growing season must have at least four frost-free months.                   
Large quantities are grown in southeastern Virginia and on the                  
Eastern Shore.                                                                  
                                                                                
The sweet potato is one of the most completely nutritious foods                 
available. It was the principal item in the diet of the early                   
settlers in the southern states. Some South Sea Islanders live                  
almost exclusively on sweet potatoes.                                           
                                                                                
The modern sweet potato industry of the U.S. was started from the               
variety Mameya in 1908. It seems to have been smuggled into this                
country illegally from Puerto Rico by an unknown agricultural                   
worker. This variety was known as a yellow yam in Puerto Rico.                  
                                                                                
The sweet, moist, soft Puerto Rico types are more desirable than                
the dry types. Moist sweet potatoes are often called yams, but                  
this is incorrect. The true yam is an entirely different plant                  
which is cultivated as food for people and livestock.                           
                                                                                
Sweet potatoes are not only a fine nutritious food, they have                   
delicious flavor. This versatile vegetable may be boiled, baked,                
browned, fried or candied.                                                      
                                                                                
Common Insects of Boxwood                                                       
                                                                                
Boxwood mite, one of the spider mites, attacks both American and                
European boxwood varieties. Leaves of infested plants appear to                 
be pin-pricked or scratched with tiny white or yellow marks. The                
mites themselves are difficult to find even under a dissecting                  
microscope. Egg shells and cast skins can be important clues but                
they are not as apparent as they are with other spider mite                     
species.                                                                        
                                                                                
The adult boxwood leafminer is a small, delicate fly. Damage is                 
caused by its' larvae which feed between the upper and lower                    
layers of leaves. Two to six larvae typically occur in a single                 
leaf. Infested leaves appear blistered on the underside and are                 
often discolored. Boxwood leafminer larvae overwinter within the                
tunnels in the leaves. With a little practice, they are easily                  
found by breaking open a blistered leaf with the thumbnail. Adult               
flies are evident around boxwoods in late April and early May.                  
                                                                                
Boxwood psyllid is a member of a family of insects closely                      
related to aphids. Adults are active during July and early                      
August, but they are rarely seen. Eggs are laid between bud                     
scales and nymphs emerge from them in mid-to late April. Nymphs                 
soon cover themselves with white, cotton-like secretions. Their                 
feeding on tender new growth causes leaves to cup and stunts the                
growth of shoots.                                                               
                                                                                
Agent Note: Refer to your PMG for control recommendations.                      
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
November 1987 Question Box                                                      
                                                                                
This material was prepared by J. T. Foley and Kimberly Mathias,                 
Horticulture Extension Technicians, working with Diane Relf,                    
Extension Specialist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener                   
Question Box has been developed for agent use in preparing radio                
and newspaper features.                                                         
                                                                                
Caladiums Indoors						34 lines                                                 
Fruit Trees Indoors						26 lines                                               
Fall Sown Annuals						 7 lines                                                 
Reliable Indoor Foliage Plants			42 lines                                       
Sheetrock in the Garden					20 lines                                            
Fertilizing Home Fruit Trees				15 lines                                        
Substituting Fertilizers					27 lines                                           
Oak Apple Gall							13 lines                                                   
Golden Locust Tree						17 lines                                                
Winter Sweet Shrub						24 lines                                                
                                                                                
__________________                                                              
                                                                                
I have always considered caladiums as outdoor plants but recently               
saw them for sale as interior pot plants.  How useful are they                  
this way?  Can I start them from bulbs?                                         
                                                                                
No matter what exposure you have, indoors or out, a caladium will               
be successful.     Caladiums have the unique ability of bringing                
color to areas of sun or deep shade in the garden, but can also                 
thrive in bright indirect light of the home or office. Outdoor                  
colors are strongest when grown in shade.  They become bleached                 
in full sun.                                                                    
                                                                                
Caladiums can be started at anytime of year and will last from                  
seven to eight months. It is usually best to start the tubers at                
6 month intervals to insure that the color of mature plants can                 
be maintained year round. To start individual bulbs, place them 1               
inch deep in a 6 inch pot filled with a commercial potting mix.                 
An efficient way of starting a large group of tubers is to place                
them closely in a shallow container from which they will be                     
transplanted to permanent locations in the border.  Many                        
varieties require heat to break tuber dormancy prior to planting                
and growing.  Warmth is essential to leaf development; therefore,               
temperatures around 70 degrees should be maintained in the early                
growth stages. Once the tubers are up, temperatures may range                   
from the low 60's at night to the mid 80's during the day.                      
                                                                                
Typically, caladium foliage begins to wither after 6-8 months.                  
At this time, withhold watering and allow the foliage to die                    
completely. Tubers can then be dug and the soil removed from them               
for storing. Place uprooted bulbs in dry peat moss at 55 to 60                  
degrees for four to five month rest, then start them again as                   
before.                                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
Tubers are generally not available year round and mail order                    
shipping in winter is risky since the tubers are very cold                      
sensitive.  Therefore plan ahead and order your tubers for winter               
use in the fall prior to cold weather.                                          
                                                                                
__________________                                                              
                                                                                
What kinds of fruit trees can I grow indoors?                                   
                                                                                
Calamondins, lemons, limes, kumquats, and pomegranates are good                 
choices for indoor gardening and will often bear successions of                 
perfumed flowers and fruit.  Citrus and other fruit trees should                
be given sunny southern or eastern exposure and their soil kept                 
evenly moist. A well-balanced fertilizer should be applied every                
four to six weeks. Pomegranates, calamondins, and kumquats are                  
the easiest species to grow.                                                    
                                                                                
Calamondins (X Citrofortunella mitis).  Dark green, dense                       
leathery leaves on dwarf trees. White, sweetly perfumed blossoms.               
Sour, deep orange-yellow fruits 1 to 2 inches in diameter.                      
Fruiting season late fall through early summer; occasionally,                   
trees are everbearing. Fruits often used for making marmalade.                  
Excellent pot plant.                                                            
                                                                                
Dwarf pomegranate (Punica granatum nana). Bright green, delicate                
narrow leaves. Flowers scarlet, trumpet shaped. Continuous crops                
of small, orange-red fruits with juicy, edible pulp; slightly                   
more sour than commercial pomegranates. Very easy culture.                      
                                                                                
Nagami kumquat (Fortunella margarita). Small bushy tree. Long,                  
pointed shiny, dark-green leaves. Fragrant white flowers.                       
Prolific yields of sweet fruit, good for preserves or eating                    
fresh. Fruiting season early fall through winter, often longer.                 
                                                                                
__________________                                                              
                                                                                
Is it true that seeds of some annuals can be sown in the garden                 
now?                                                                            
                                                                                
Cosmos, calliopsis, snapdragon, portulaca, calendula and poppy                  
are some annual seeds which can be sown in the garden this month.               
These hardy seeds will germinate in early spring. But don't                     
forget where you put them!                                                      
                                                                                
__________________                                                              
                                                                                
I know nothing about plants but would like to have some reliable                
plants for my light conditions indoors.  Can you tell me about                  
plants that I can't kill?                                                       
                                                                                
Some people are literally `in the dark' when it comes to plants.                
If you enjoy the greenery in your home, but have limited                        
sunlight, you might consider growing the following foliage or                   
flowering plants:                                                               
                                                                                
Cast Iron Plant, (Aspidistra elatior) gets its name from its                    
ability to withstand abuse.  However, its long, leathery leaves                 
will be more attractive with good care. Requires moderate                       
temperatures (70 Degrees F by day 50 to 55 degrees at night).                   
Keep soil moderately moist, but not wet, at all times.                          
                                                                                
Chinese Evergreen, (Aglaonema commutatum).  The leaves have                     
beautiful silver markings on a dark green background. Although                  
slow growing it is one of the most tolerant plants of adverse                   
conditions. All Aglaonema species prefer warm temperatures (80 to               
85 degrees F by day and 62 to 65 at night) and moderately moist                 
soil. They will, however, grow in moderately dry soils.                         
                                                                                
Victoria Table Fern or Silver Leaf Table Fern, (Pteris                          
ensiformis), has irregular forking, silver fronds with wavy green               
margins. This dwarf is often used in terrariums or in hanging                   
baskets. It requires moderate to warm temperatures and moderately               
moist soils.                                                                    
                                                                                
Flamingo Flower, (Anthurium x ferrierense).  The main attraction                
is its colorful spathe (flower bract or sheath). The plant will                 
bloom during any season, but more often from February to July.                  
Other Anthruium species are available with red, white or pink                   
spathes. Requires warm temperature and soils should be kept very                
moist, except in winter when soil should be kept moderately                     
moist.                                                                          
                                                                                
Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum `Clevelandii'),  likes soil with high                 
organic content. Its leaves are sent out from the base of the                   
plant and its spathes or `flowers' resemble a flattened Calla                   
Lily. Normally blooming in the summer and fall, the Peace Lily                  
makes an excellent potted plant for the home. It requires warm                  
temperatures and soil should be very moist at all times.                        
                                                                                
__________________                                                              
                                                                                
Can I use sheetrock in my garden instead of limestone? I have a                 
large free supply.                                                              
                                                                                
The gypsum contained within sheetrock is safe to use; the                       
wallboard exterior is normal pressboard paper and has no toxic                  
components. For sheetrock to react well with the soil, it should                
first be ground or pulverized.                                                  
                                                                                
However, gypsum is not considered a liming material.  It does not               
cause a change in pH when added to the soil.  Gypsum is not any                 
more effective in Virginia for improving the friability of the                  
soil than regular limestone. Out in the Far West on certain                     
alkaline soils where limestone is not needed to neutralize soil                 
acidity, the calcium from gypsum is used to replace sodium in the               
soil which makes those soils more friable. The same is not true,                
however, for Virginia soils.                                                    
                                                                                
The only beneficial use for gypsum in Virginia is to supply                     
Calcium ions for plants growth where upward shift in pH is                      
undesirable as in potatoes, peanuts or certain ornamentals.                     
                                                                                
__________________                                                              
                                                                                
My apple and peach trees growing on the lawn look anemic.  The                  
foilage is yellow and slightly scorched around the edges. Do they               
need to be fertilized?  I have never performed the task, assuming               
it was unnecessary.                                                             
                                                                                
Fruit trees should be fertilized each year.  Every spring before                
growth starts or on heavy soils in the fall after leaf drop,                    
apply 1/4 lbs. sodium nitrate (16% actual nitrogen). After the                  
tree begins to bear increase the rate to 1/4 lbs. for each year                 
of the tree's age. For mature trees the rate should be about 5                  
lbs. but this amount can vary depending upon tree vigor.  The                   
growth rate for a mature apple tree should be 8-10 inches while                 
mature peach trees should grow 10-15 inches a year.  Young peach                
trees should have 20-30 inches of growth during the first growing               
season, young apple trees 16-20 inches.                                         
                                                                                
__________________                                                              
                                                                                
I cannot always find the fertilizer recommended in articles or                  
books. Can I substitute another fertilizer?                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
Often times it is necessary to substitute other kinds of                        
fertilizer when the recommended kind is not available or when                   
tests indicate a deficiency of other nutrients in the soil.                     
When substitutions are made, be sure to adjust the amount of                    
material to supply the quantity of actual nitrogen recommended.                 
For example, to determine the amount of a substitute fertilizer                 
needed to give the recommended amount of actual nitrogen provided               
by sodium nitrate:                                                              
                                                                                
      1. Multiply the amount of sodium nitrate recommended by the               
percent nitrogen in sodium nitrate (16% or 0.16).  This gives the               
amount of actual nitrogen recommended.                                          
                                                                                
      2. Divide the amount of actual nitrogen recommended, as                   
determined in step one, by the percent nitrogen in the new                      
source.  This gives the amount of the new source needed.                        
                                                                                
      3. Example:                                                               
		Substitute 33% ammonium nitrate for 8 oz. of 16% sodium                       
		nitrate                                                                       
                                                                                
		(8oz.) X (0.16) = 1.28 oz. actual nitrogen in sodium                          
							  nitrate                                                                
          (1.28 oz.) / (0.33) = 3.9 oz. of ammonium nitrate                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
__________________                                                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
We have a spectacular oak tree in our yard that had an                          
infestation of oak galls last year. The gall was a pale                         
parchment-like ball, slightly smaller than a golf ball, and                     
hollow inside. If it happens again this year, what damage can it                
do to the tree and is there any way to prevent it?                              
                                                                                
The oak apple gall which you have described is caused by the                    
cynipid wasp.  The immature insect is a legless white larva, the                
adult a small black wasp.  This gall, as is true with most other                
galls, causes little or no damage to the tree, although  heavy                  
infestation may affect its appearance.  The only way to prevent                 
galls is to eliminate the insects that cause them.  This is a                   
difficult task; there are no known chemical methods of control                  
for the oak apple gall.                                                         
                                                                                
__________________	                                                             
                                                                                
Nearly two years ago I planted a golden locust tree.  Today it is               
about 12 feet tall.  It has beautiful golden leaves, but the                    
trunk looks much to spindly. How can I prune this tree to keep it               
growing tall yet still induce stronger and larger trunk growth?                 
                                                                                
The problem with the golden locust as well as other plants with                 
mostly yellow or white leaves is that the leaves do not have very               
much chlorophyll and that means low carbohydrate or food                        
production.                                                                     
                                                                                
Carbohydrates produced in the leaves are the main source for                    
energy for new growth in the trunk, roots, and limbs.  A dark                   
green leaf can produce more food than a yellow one because they                 
contain considerably larger amounts of chlorophyll.                             
                                                                                
Therefore to promote new growth of the tree and to help it become               
more sturdy, do not prune it at all. When a healthy leaf is                     
removed a food producer is lost.                                                
                                                                                
__________________                                                              
                                                                                
Winter sweet (Chimonanthus praecox) upon first glance appears to                
be just an average shrub-not unlike all the others.  Unless, of                 
course, the first glance is during the winter.                                  
                                                                                
In winter this plant produces fragrant blossoms on short stalks,                
projecting from the previous seasons growth.  The flowers usually               
appear by late December or early January.  In milder climates                   
they may come out in November, and in colder climates as late as                
March.  It is possible that during a very severe winter flowers                 
may not appear at all.  The limit of hardiness is Zone 7. In                    
sheltered locations winter sweet can be hardy through out                       
Virginia.  The shrub may reach eight or nine feet in height and                 
therefore can be easily planted in the home landscape.                          
                                                                                
The fragrance is what makes winter sweet a treasure. It is both                 
pleasing and powerful.  A branch of only three or four blossoms                 
is enough to perfume an entire room. However, only a mature shrub               
should be cut since winter sweet is fairly slow growing and takes               
many years to produce flowers.  Severe pruning is never needed                  
and one should be reluctant to prune at all.                                    
                                                                                
Winter sweet may be planted next to a south or west facing wall                 
in order to provide good winter protection. It is also said to                  
thrive in chalky soils, although it also does well in acid soil                 
rich in humus.  Good drainage is important.                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
October Notes                                                                   
                                                                                
* If the weather stays dry enough before the ground freezes,                    
you can plow. Fall plowing allows earlier planting in the spring                
and is especially good for heavy soils since they are exposed                   
to the freezing and thawing action of winter. This will help                    
improve your soil's structure.                                                  
                                                                                
* Remove any diseased or insect-infested plant material from                    
your garden; it may harbor overwintering stages of disease and                  
insect pests. If you leave this plant material in your garden,                  
you are leaving diseases and insects which will begin to reprod-                
uce again next spring and add to next year's pest problem.                      
                                                                                
* The bitter, golf-ball sized fruits of the trifoliate orange                   
(Poncirus trifoliate) may have some uses after all. Sections                    
of the fruit in hot tea have been reported as tastier than lemon                
and the entire fruit make an attractive, miniature pomander                     
when filled with cloves and covered with spices.                                
                                                                                
* Pumpkins which are free from insects, disease or damage will                  
keep 2-3 months if stored at 50-55 degrees F with a relative                    
humidity of 70-75%.                                                             
                                                                                
* Use coldframes to overwinter cuttings of trees and shrubs                     
and perennial seedlings started in mid to late summer. Bulbs                    
prepared for forcing can also be stored in coldframes until                     
time to take indoors.                                                           
                                                                                
* Fertilize trees and shrubs that have shown signs of weak growth               
after they are dormant but before soil temperature drops below                  
45 degrees F.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Water trees and shrubs well to increase winter hardiness.                     
                                                                                
* Move and divide crowded perennials. Arrange for swaps with                    
friends and neighbors.                                                          
                                                                                
* Bring in cannas, dahlias, and gladiolas if not hardy in your                  
area after the tops are hurt by frost. Dry, clean, and store                    
in peat moss or vermiculite in a cool location free from frost.                 
                                                                                
* Treat magnolia and beech leaves for dried flower arrangements                 
in a mixture of 1/3 glycerine, 2/3 warm water. Crush stems and                  
submerge 3 weeks to produce a rich, glossy brown foliage.                       
                                                                                
* Remove leaves from lawn to reduce lawn problems. Compost or                   
save for next year's mulch.                                                     
                                                                                
* Clean up home orchard and small fruit plantings. Sanitation                   
is essential for good maintenance. Dried fruits or "mummies"                    
carry disease organisms through the winter to attack next year's                
crop.                                                                           
                                                                                
* If you have a sunny area to naturalize with small flowering                   
annuals, sow seeds of sweet alyssum or johnny-jump-ups. They                    
will come up this fall or early spring and bloom extra early                    
next spring. Both are very hardy and self-seed readily to                       
maintain the natural area.                                                      
                                                                                
* In deciding on new trees or shrubs to plant around your home,                 
remember to select varieties with a mature height to fit the                    
desired location. This will greatly reduce pruning and other                    
maintenance in the future.                                                      
                                                                                
* House plants will slow down growth as the days get shorter                    
and light intensity is reduced. This means that they will need                  
less frequent watering and fertilizing until next spring. Too                   
much of either in the winter months can cause weak growth.                      
                                                                                
* Make a note of plants displaying outstanding fall colors                      
as you drive along city streets and the surrounding countryside.                
You may wish to incorporate some of them into your own landscape.               
Fall color can often be enjoyed for much longer than the plant's                
flowers in the spring. For this reason, it may be more desirable                
when selecting trees and shrubs for landscape use to plan                       
greater emphasis on their fall features.                                        
                                                                                
* A great deal of winter losses is the result of plants being                   
allowed to become dry during this season.  This is especially                   
true of evergreens because they hold their leaves and lose water                
all during the winter. If the weather is at all dry, water right                
up to the time the ground freezes hard.                                         
                                                                                
* Do not become alarmed if you yews, pines, arborvitae and                      
junipers begin to shed their innermost needles. It is natural                   
for them to do so at this time of year.                                         
                                                                                
* As you plant your spring bulbs, remember that a mass planting                 
of one flower type or color will produce a better effect than a                 
mixture of many colors. Flowers of bulbs stand out more vividly                 
if displayed against a contrasting background: for example, white               
hyacinths among English ivy, yellow daffodils against a `Burford'               
holly hedge, or red tulips towering over a carpet of yellow                     
pansies.                                                                        
                                                                                
* A lily bulb is never dormant; it must be planted as soon as it                
is received. Have beds prepared ahead of time.                                  
                                                                                
* Allow a few of the seeds of your favorite delphinium and holly-               
hock to ripen on their stalks. When mature, plant the seeds                     
at once in a garden bed where they will grow into husky little                  
plants that winter well.                                                        
                                                                                
* To beat birds, squirrels, and other pests to your crops, prompt               
harvest is a must. This month harvest pecans, grapes, and                       
pawpaws.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Bring out the bird feeders and stock them with treats for the                 
birds. Remember to provide fresh water for your feathered                       
friends.                                                                        
                                                                                
* A plant or two of parsley taken from the garden and potted up                 
will do well all winter if watered and set in a sunny window.                   
Chives, sage, and thyme can also be maintained in this manner.                  
                                                                                
* Get the cold frame ready for cuttings you may have rooted in                  
summer. The cold frame is also a good place to root bulbs grown                 
in containers to force into bloom this winter.                                  
                                                                                
* If your climbing roses are in an exposed location, tie them up                
firmly with broad strips of rags so that the wind will not whip                 
them against the trellis and bruise the bark.                                   
                                                                                
* Fall is an excellent time for taking soil samples in your lawn                
and garden.  Soil tests will measure the acidity or alkalinity of               
the soil and the levels of some of the major elements required                  
for plant growth: phosphorus, and potassium. Where lime is                      
needed, now is a good time to apply it.                                         
                                                                                
* Do not use quick acting fertilizers in preparing beds during                  
the fall. They will be leached away before spring. Use materials                
which act slowly and last a long time, such as bone meal.                       
                                                                                
* Mow lawn for as long as it continues to grow to prevent matting               
through the winter which encourages root rots.                                  
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
October  1985                                                                   
LANDSCAPING THE FRONT YARD                                                      
                                                                                
A traditional element in the homesites of most Virginians is the                
yard. Whether it is a 15-by-20 foot patch in front of a townhouse               
or an acre of land fenced-off from the rest of a farm, this space               
is set aside for public viewing and should be an attractive                     
display for all who approach it.                                                
                                                                                
When space permits, a lawn becomes the canvas upon which your                   
landscape picture is constructed. As such, it should be open and                
as wide as possible to give the impression of spaciousness to the               
property.                                                                       
                                                                                
The ground should slope down from the house to cause water to                   
move away from the foundation. If possible, the grading should                  
provide gentle slopes which are easy to mow. Banks which exceed                 
one foot of drop for each two feet of horizontal distance will be               
difficult to maintain in sod, hard to mow, and susceptible to                   
erosion. Such as area as this would be better suited to ground                  
covers.                                                                         
                                                                                
Ideally, the house should be framed with trees. Tall species                    
should be located in the back yard to provide a green backdrop to               
the house. Medium-sized trees should be planted toward the sides                
of the front lawn area. This will focus attention on the resid-                 
ence as the most important feature of the landscape picture.                    
                                                                                
A foundation planting of shrubs or small trees is often located                 
around the house to soften its harsh architectural features and                 
to cause it to blend into the landscape. This is particularly                   
effective if used where vertical lines of the building meet the                 
ground at corners and doorways.                                                 
                                                                                
A continuous planting will reduce the apparent height of a tall                 
house. However, a low house, without an exposed foundation, will                
look larger and more impressive if the shrub planting is not                    
continuous, and ground covers are used in one or two places                     
between the corner and the front door.                                          
                                                                                
Use a limited number of species in the foundation planting.                     
Some variation in form and texture is important, but avoid                      
numerous different types, or mixtures of evergreen and deciduous                
shrubs.                                                                         
                                                                                
Select varieties which will be of suitable size when mature,                    
and be sure to provide adequate space for normal growth. Avoid                  
placing large shrubs under windows, as they will need continuous                
heavy pruning, or will grow too tall.                                           
                                                                                
The height of shrubs is very important along the front of the                   
house. Relatively tall ones should be located at the corners, and               
shorter ones on each side of the front door. This will have the                 
effect of funneling attention on the entrance.                                  
Be prepared to renew or improve your landscaping periodically.                  
Most shrubs need to be replaced with young, more desirable                      
specimens about every 15 or 20 years.                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
VIRGINIA IS FOR APPLE LOVERS                                                    
                                                                                
Virginia is the fifth largest apple producing state in the United               
States. More than 12 million bushels of apples are harvested                    
each year in our state. Consequently, it is possible for Virgin-                
ians to select high quality apples for a variety of purposes.                   
The key is knowing what varieties to buy and where to find them.                
 Here are some favorites:                                                       
                                                                                
 Red Delicious, the number one apple in the supermarket, is                     
excellent for salads and eating out of hand. Since they are                     
readily available year-round, Red Delicious could be skipped for                
the harder-to-get varieties during the peak harvest time.                       
                                                                                
 Golden Delicious, also widely available in supermarkets, is                    
ranked high for eating fresh and cooking.                                       
                                                                                
 Jonathan is very tart, juicy and firm. It is an excellent                      
choice for snacks, salads and cooking. Although it ripens from                  
early to midseason, it is widely available into the fall.                       
                                                                                
 Stayman, a late ripening apple, is juicy with a moderately tart,               
rich, wine-like flavor. It is good for fresh eating, salads and                 
cooking.                                                                        
                                                                                
 Winesap apples have very firm, tart, juicy fruit which hold                    
their shape well when cooked.                                                   
                                                                                
 Rome Beauty, considered by some to be "the world's best baking                 
apple," is a variety with a slightly tart taste. The fruit                      
has a long storage life and is widely available.                                
                                                                                
 York is also a popular variety with Virginia producers. It's                   
tart, crisp fruit provides good eating out of hand or cooked.                   
                                                                                
 One variety which has gained popularity recently is the Granny                 
Smith. It is an excellent variety that is being planted in                      
Virginia orchards. Locally produced Granny Smiths may not be                    
available in your area yet, but should be within the next few                   
years.                                                                          
                                                                                
Many of the less common varieties are more easily obtained from                 
Virginia apple orchards and their roadside markets than at the                  
local supermarket. A weekend excursion could take you to the                    
orchards for a bushel of apples. Watch for apple cider and                      
pumpkins too, while you are enjoying the fall foliage.                          
                                                                                
In addition to the more popular modern varieties in some of the                 
old orchards on both eastern and western slopes of the Blue Ridge               
varieties such as Arkansas Black Twig, Baldwin, Ben Davis, Esopus               
Spitzenburg, Gano, King David, Grimes Golden, Horse Apple, Maiden               
Blush, Northern Spy, Smokehouse, Winter Banana and Wolf River are               
grown.                                                                          
                                                                                
Many of the old varieties lost favor with the commercial grower                 
because of low productivity, lack of attractiveness, susceptibil-               
ity to insects and disease, and poor shipping quality. For the                  
home gardener, however, these faults are overshadowed by the                    
delightful flavor, rich aroma, and culinary characteristics                     
found in few of the more recently introduced apple varieties.                   
If you find some of these old varieties at a roadside stand, you                
might try them. Each still has a following among apple lovers.                  
                                                                                
When buying apples, the Virginia State Apple Commission points                  
out that the background or "ground color", on varieties that are                
not solid red, should be yellow-green. If too green, the color                  
indicates immaturity. Too yellow of a color indicates an overripe               
apple.                                                                          
                                                                                
Apples with a brownish roughened area on the skin called surface                
russeting make good eating and may be less expensive. Russeting                 
is only a cosmetic defect.                                                      
                                                                                
It usually is more economical to buy apples in large quantities                 
when they are in season. Purchase only what can be used or                      
stored, however. Smaller apples usually will keep longer and have               
less bruising.                                                                  
                                                                                
Apples should be kept refrigerated. Store in perforated plastic                 
bags to allow proper air circulation. Place away from foods with                
strong odors as the flavor will transfer.                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
FALL RASPBERRIES                                                                
                                                                                
With the introduction of some newer varieties, raspberries can be               
treats in both the summer and the fall. In fact, unless your area               
has been caught by an unseasonably early frost, you still could                 
be picking raspberries from your everbearing varieties. One of                  
the best and most frequently grown everbearing raspberries                      
in Virginia is Heritage.                                                        
                                                                                
The so-called everbearing varieties of raspberries actually                     
should be considered two-season bearers as each cane produces                   
the first crop in the fall its first year, and a second crop in                 
the summer of its second year. After the second crop is produc-                 
ed, the cane dies and should be removed. The crown of the plant,                
however, lives for eight or more years and continues to produce                 
new canes each year. This means that after you have completed                   
the June harvest and removed all canes, there still will be many                
new ones that will produce a fall crop.                                         
                                                                                
For those people who find this system confusing, there is                       
another way of pruning that has proven quite successful with the                
Heritage raspberry. It eliminates the need to decide if a cane                  
has completed both crops and should be removed. In this system,                 
Heritage is grown as a fall bearer only and never allowed                       
to set the second crop in the summer.                                           
                                                                                
Canes grow for a season, produce a crop in the fall and are left                
on the plant to help it survive the winter. They are then removed               
in early spring.  The canes can be cut with a rotary mower and                  
all cut material removed from the planting. New canes will grow                 
from the crowns to produce that fall's harvest and the cutting                  
procedure can be repeated the next spring. Although you miss the                
June harvest, the total yield will be higher in the fall than it                
is on plants producing two crops per year, and the maintenance                  
will be reduced greatly.                                                        
                                                                                
If you don't want to miss those June raspberries, you might set                 
aside one part of your Heritage patch for traditional pruning.                  
Or you might grow one of the June bearing varieties such as                     
Latham.                                                                         
                                                                                
October is the time to prepare your soil to plant raspberries                   
next spring. They prefer a pH of 5.8 to 6.5 and a deep sandy-loam               
soil. Converting part of your garden to raspberries could be                    
ideal, but avoid areas where tomatoes, eggplants or potatoes have               
grown. These crops often carry verticillium wilt which lives in                 
the soil many years and is very damaging to raspberries.                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
MICE, VOLES OR MOLES                                                            
                                                                                
When we discover that creatures have been eating our plants, we                 
tend to get excited and start looking for ways to eliminate the                 
pests rather than trying to identify and understand them. This                  
can reduce our effectiveness at times.                                          
                                                                                
One case is the mice, vole, or mole dilemma.  Although easily                   
mistaken by the novice, they are not all plant-devouring rodents.               
 In fact, the mole is neither a rodent nor a plant eater. A close               
relative of the shrew, the mole tunnels through your yard in                    
search of grubs or other soil insects.                                          
                                                                                
Pine or meadow voles, often called mice as they are in that                     
family, are more likely the culprits that are damaging bulbs,                   
roots and tree bark. The pine vole and the mole seem to work as a               
team in creating havoc, as the pine vole loves to use the tunnels               
created by moles as a running path for easy access to its dinner.               
The meadow vole, on the other hand, stays above ground and                      
tunnels through leaves, straw, and other debris to reach its                    
favorite food.                                                                  
                                                                                
While moles are a nuisance, making the yard unsightly and                       
difficult to cross in high heels, they do relatively little                     
actual damage to plants with the exception of pushing small                     
perennials out of the ground. Voles however, can do more damage                 
than insects or disease in a fruit orchard.  They have been known               
to girdle and kill a tree in one winter.                                        
                                                                                
To prevent damage this winter, there are several things a                       
homeowner can do. First, eliminate potential homes for the                      
creatures. Moles can be discouraged by reducing the insect                      
population in the soil, usually through the use of soil insectic-               
ides. Traps may also be used to stop the moles. After the moles                 
are gone, their tunnels should be collapsed around fruit trees to               
prevent winter use by the pine voles.                                           
                                                                                
Mulch, stems, leaves, and dead grass should be removed from                     
around the trunks of trees to reduce meadow vole damage. Tree                   
guards are helpful in reducing summer and early fall damage. They               
should be constructed from hardware cloth with no larger than                   
1/4-inch mesh. Guards should enclose the tree trunk and extend                  
from several inches below ground to about 18 inches above the                   
soil's surface. Never use tarpaper or roofing paper as they may                 
damage the tree by lowering its winter hardiness.                               
                                                                                
If a vole problem still develops, it is better for the homeowner                
to use traps rather than poisonous baits, as the latter are                     
dangerous to pets and children. Common household mouse traps                    
baited with apples and placed in the trail system are probably                  
the most effective control. Continue to use the traps for four to               
five days, surrounding your trees at 10 to 20 square foot                       
intervals to get rid of all the voles.                                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
EARLY AMERICAN VEGETABLES                                                       
                                                                                
North American Indians were cultivating several common garden                   
crops when Europeans arrived. Corn, beans and pumpkins were                     
among their most important foods. Sunflowers and Jerusalem                      
artichokes also supplemented their diets.                                       
                                                                                
Believed to be a "gift of the gods," corn was of central importa-               
nce for many of the native Americans. Although popcorn and sweet                
corn were known, they were not as important for food crops as                   
field corn or roasting ears.                                                    
                                                                                
Green corn was roasted in the shuck and also was mixed with green               
beans to make succotash. Dried corn was washed in wood ashes and                
quicklime to make hominy, or parched to make it pop slightly for                
easy eating. Ground hominy or dried field corn was used for                     
making unleavened bread or tortillas. It was also mixed with                    
other foods, such as pumpkins, beans, or acorns to make bread.                  
Evidence indicates that sweet corn primarily was grown for                      
special occasions. Interestingly, it was eaten parched rather                   
than fresh.                                                                     
                                                                                
Some methods used by the Indians to insure a successful crop                    
might be of value in today's home gardens. They included planting               
in a shallow pit in windy areas or dry soils to hold moisture,                  
and soaking seeds for two days to hasten sprouting. Interplant-                 
ing with pumpkins to save space may be an asset to some gardens                 
if field corn is planted and allowed to mature before harvest.                  
When such interplanting is tried with sweet corn, most people                   
have to fight the pumpkin vines to get the corn at harvest                      
time.                                                                           
                                                                                
The pumpkin was second only to corn in importance as a food                     
crop to North American Indians. Pumpkins were protected from                    
freezing in early winter by storing them in corn shocks. As the                 
weather got colder, they were sliced into rings and dried over                  
fires. The dried pumpkin could be ground into meal and used for                 
breads. The seeds that weren't needed for planting the next year                
were roasted and eaten.                                                         
                                                                                
The kidney bean, which includes most snap or green beans, was                   
domesticated in Peru before 6000 B.C. and in Mexico prior to 5000               
B.C. Its use spread north from Mexico, as did corn and pumpkins.                
 These three plants became the principle crops in North America                 
in prehistoric times.                                                           
                                                                                
The early colonist found the native Americans planting pole or                  
"half-runner" types of kidney beans. They often were put among                  
the corn plants so they could climb the stalks. This practice                   
not only led to easier bean harvests, it made it possible to grow               
good crops of corn on the same ground for several years in a row.               
The native Americans did not understand why this worked but, by                 
observing the benefits, were able to take advantage of the fact                 
that beans actually improved the soil by helping to extract                     
nitrogen from the atmosphere and storing it in the soil. The                    
oldest known variety of beans, the "White Half Runner," has been                
planted for as long as records exist by mountain residents in the               
Southeastern United States.                                                     
                                                                                
Another crop grown by the North American Indians was the sunflow-               
er. It is the only important crop plant to have actually been                   
domesticated in what is now the United States. All other crops                  
were brought here by native Americans after domestication.                      
Surprisingly, sunflower did not become important as a food plant                
until it was carried to Russia where it was found to be suitable                
for growth in large areas of that vast country.  This led to the                
development of several new varieties.                                           
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
This material was prepared by  Virginia Nathan, Extension                       
Technician Horticulture, working with Diane Relf, Home Horticul-                
ture Extension Specialist. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has               
been developed for agent use in preparing the radio and newspaper               
features and is a monthly section of HortFacts.                                 
                                                                                
I already have apple trees growing on my land.  I would like to                 
try pears if they are no more work.  Are they?                                  
                                                                                
Pears are fine trees for home fruit planting.  One good feature                 
of pears is that they are not commonly damaged by insects and                   
diseases.  They can be grown quite easily with the same spray                   
program used on apples.                                                         
                                                                                
Fire blight, a bacterial disease, is the one serious problem of                 
pears in the Eastern states.  It is very destructive on suscepti-               
ble varieties, but many varieties available are quite resistant                 
to fire blight.  Select from Moonglow, Magness, Orient, Seckel or               
Keiffer.                                                                        
                                                                                
Pears are long lived and hardy.  Dwarf trees will begin to bear                 
in two or three years, and the standard sizes in five to seven                  
years.  Dwarf pears grow well along a fence or wire trellis like                
grapes.  The dwarf or standard trees are excellent for training                 
as espalier trees against the side of a house or garage.                        
                                                                                
Fall is an ideal season for planting pears.  The best time is                   
about a month after the average date of the first frost in your                 
area.  Like many other types of fruit, pears are mostly self-unf-               
ruitful.  Plant two or more different varieties to provide                      
cross pollination for good fruit set.                                           
__________________________                                                      
                                                                                
With all the rain we've been getting, some of my shrubs are                     
beginning to sprout and the dogwoods look like they're ready to                 
bloom.  I know if a cold spell hits these plants are in trouble.                
Should I wrap them in burlap or something?                                      
                                                                                
Under normal conditions, the active growth of most shrubs ends                  
during September.  In October and November when cold and freezing               
weather occurs, they move into their dormant condition.  During a               
warm and rainy fall, shrubs may be stimulated into renewed growth               
in late September and October instead of becoming dormant.  When                
exposed to a quick and severe drop in temperature tender new                    
shoots and buds may be seriously damaged.  But if cold weather                  
occurs gradually, shrubs develop a satisfactory degree of                       
dormancy and survive the winter well.                                           
                                                                                
In some cases renewed growth is accompanied by flowering which                  
should not have occured until next spring.  If the buds merely                  
swell up but do not open, they may return to a dormant condition                
and bloom next year.  The flowers which open this fall will, of                 
course, not bloom again next spring.  Most of the flower buds on                
your trees will not open in the fall. You should have a good                    
number left for next season if they escape damage by cold this                  
winter.                                                                         
                                                                                
You may wrap your shrubs in burlap to give them some protection.                
This may reduce damage by desiccation, but will probably offer                  
very slight protection from severe cold temperatures.  Broad-leaf               
evergreens benefit most from this practice; needle bearing                      
species should fare well without protection.                                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
My bunches of grapes never sweeten up in storage.  I am careful                 
to pick the fruit before frost but I am not pleased with the                    
flavor.  What can I do?                                                         
                                                                                
Grapes are different from most fruits because they do not mature                
and improve in quality after harvest.  They must develop all of                 
their sugar and fine flavor while still on the vine.  Color is a                
poor index of maturity in bunch grapes.  Many varieties change                  
color long before they are fully ripe, and practically all                      
varieties become sweeter and less acid as they mature.                          
                                                                                
For table grapes, maturity is usually determined by taste or by                 
the color of the seeds, which changes from green to brown.                      
Truly, the best way to determine when they are fully ripe is to                 
pick a few berries and taste them for sweetness.                                
                                                                                
Although the highest quality fruit may be obtained by harvesting                
fully ripened clusters, it is sometimes necessary to harvest the                
crop before the fruit is fully mature to prevent loss.  Where the               
growing season is short, a freeze or frost may damage the crop.                 
You are correct in harvesting before the cold damages the fruit,                
but the flavor of these grapes will never be quite as good.                     
                                                                                
 -----------------                                                              
                                                                                
Our budget does not allow us to buy trees from a garden center. -               
Can we move some trees from our woods into the yard?                            
                                                                                
Many native trees can be used for landscaping if care is taken in               
transplanting them. Most plants that are dug from the wild are                  
best transplanted in early spring before growth starts. This                    
requires that they be identified in a dormant condition. People                 
who can identify the plants only when they are in leaf or flower                
should mark plants during the growing season and move plants the                
following spring.                                                               
                                                                                
It is usually better to move small plants, because, despite                     
careful digging, only a small percentage of the roots will remain               
unharmed.  Trees that develop a tap root such as oaks and nut                   
trees, are particularly difficult to transplant and should                      
only be moved as very young plants.   Be sure to bring a large                  
root                                                                            
ball with the tree.                                                             
                                                                                
Despite the fact that the trees are native, some require careful                
site selection. Try to duplicate, as closely as possible, their                 
natural growing environments.                                                   
                                                                                
Unless small trees are transplanted, they will require extensive                
top pruning, too. First, the lower branches that interfere with                 
mowing can be removed. Next, branches that come out at very                     
narrow angles should be eliminated. Attention should be given to                
the spacing of branches and symmetry. Thinning of the twigs on                  
the trunk and larger branches will help compensate for the loss                 
of roots. The practice of removing the tops of trees should be                  
avoided.                                                                        
                                                                                
Young trees should be watered through the first and second                      
growing seasons. Pests and weeds must be controlled.  Wrap the                  
trunk with burlap, kraft paper or vinyl tree guards for the                     
winter to prevent sunscald and provide rodent protection.                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Why do I get conflicting advice from different so-called "garden                
experts"?  Even things I read often contradict one another.                     
                                                                                
Most horticulturists are quite sincere when they offer advice on                
growing different plants. Usually these cultural methods are                    
based on their own experience. Sometimes even expert gardeners                  
forget that conditions can vary considerably from one garden                    
to another. Some soils are heavy; others are sandy. Light,                      
moisture content and pH may vary between locations. The growing                 
environment can change quite radically from garden to garden even               
in the same neighborhood.                                                       
                                                                                
Temper what you read and hear before you go "all out" in your own               
garden. Ask your local extension agent for his/her advice. But                  
remember, you may need to do a little experimenting in your                     
specific growing environment to be successful with your planting-               
s.                                                                              
                                                                                
 --------------------                                                           
                                                                                
Grass does not grow well under my shade trees. What can I try                   
instead?                                                                        
                                                                                
It is generally best to avoid setting plants too close to trees                 
with roots near the soil surface, such as most maples. Few plants               
can successfully compete with such trees for the moisture and                   
nutrients they must have. If you wish to eliminate the grass and                
try a gound cover under the tree, a shade tolerant, trailing vine               
would be a good choice. The plants can be set some distance away                
from the tree trunk and in time the vines will cover most of the                
soil.                                                                           
                                                                                
Periwinkle (Vinca minor), Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus                      
quinquefolia), Boston Ivy (P. tricuspidata), Japanese spurge                    
(Pachysandra terminalis),and Carpet bugle (Ajuga reptans) could                 
adapt to the site. Prepare the soil by adding a layer of organic                
matter (such as leafmold or peat moss) and incorporating a                      
granular fertilizer. To keep the plants healthy, be prepared to                 
fertilize several times each year.                                              
                                                                                
 --------------------                                                           
                                                                                
When I lived in Tennessee, several mountain stewartia grew in our               
yard.  They are such beautiful trees, especially in the fall.                   
Will they grow here?                                                            
                                                                                
Mountain stewartia (Stewartia ovata) is a native plant from                     
Tennessee to Florida, but it will do well in Virginia.  It is a                 
very fine specimen tree which is attractive in all seasons.  The                
simple leaves (2 - 5" long) are dark green in the summer and                    
beautiful orange or red in the fall.  Even after leaf drop, the                 
trees retain their ornamental appeal.  The bark, which is deep                  
brown, flakes off revealing light green patches.                                
                                                                                
Mountain stewartia may be grown as a large shrub or small tree.                 
At maturity it will stand between 10 and 15' high, but it will                  
remain bushy with spreading branches.  In summer you will see 4"                
white flowers with purple stamens which form small seed capsules                
in the autumn.                                                                  
                                                                                
Though a lovely landscape plants, stewartias have not been                      
popular in the nursery trade because they are difficult to                      
transplant.  Relocating these trees must be done when the tree is               
small (under 5' tall) in the early spring.  Moist acid soil                     
(pH 4.5 to 5.5) is necessary.  Use plenty of leaf mold or peat                  
moss in the planting hole.  Mountain stewartia would fit in well                
near blueberries, rhododendrons, and other ericaceous plants.                   
                                                                                
Mountain stewartia likes sun, but it does best if it is shaded                  
during the hottest part of the day.  These trees require little                 
maintenance and are practically free of pests.  Two other                       
cultivated stewartias may be more easily found in nurseries:                    
Korean stewartia (Stewartia koreana), a hardy, pyramidal shaped                 
tree, and Japanese stewartia (Stewartia pseudo - camellia), which               
can grow to 60'.  The Japanese stewartia has smaller flowers and                
beautiful, red flaking bark.                                                    
                                                                                
________________________                                                        
                                                                                
Some of my onions are rotting in storage.  What can I do?                       
                                                                                
To have onions that keep well, you must plant one of the brown                  
storage-type varieties such as Ebenezer, Stuttgarter, or Yellow                 
Globe Danvers.  The Bermuda and White types will not keep as well               
as these brown varieties.                                                       
                                                                                
To have your brown onions keep during the fall and winter, they                 
must be harvested at the right stage of maturity and stored                     
properly.  Onions should be harvested when about two-thirds of                  
the tops have fallen over.  Unfortunately, in many parts of                     
Virginia this was a very rainy period, and many onions were                     
harvested in very moist conditions or later than they should have               
been.                                                                           
                                                                                
Careful handling to avoid bruising helps control storage rots.                  
In dry weather, onions may be pulled and left in the field for                  
several days to dry.  Then cure in a well ventilated attic or                   
porch for one to two weeks out of direct sun.  Tops may be                      
left on or cut off; but, leave at least one inch of the top when                
storing.  Thorough curing will increase storage life.                           
                                                                                
Store in shallow, slatted trays not over 2 or 3 onions deep in a                
cool, dark, dry basement room.  Ideal storage conditions are                    
temperature at 32 degrees F and relative humidity of 65-70%.                    
Sort your onions every week or 10 days, and discard any that                    
become soft or start to rot.  The important thing is for the                    
onions to stay dry in a cool, dark place.  Under such conditions                
your onions should keep until midwinter or later.                               
                                                                                
_________________________                                                       
                                                                                
Rabbits nibble on my fruit trees during the winter.  What do you                
recommend to prevent their damage?                                              
                                                                                
Rabbits are responsible for the loss of thousands of young fruit                
trees each year.  Perhaps the most satisfactory method of                       
preventing rabbit damage is the use of a mechanical guard.                      
                                                                                
Galvanized screen or "hardware cloth" with a 1/4" mesh is                       
frequently used.  A roll 36" wide may be cut lengthwise forming                 
two 18" strips.  By cutting these strips into pieces 14" long,                  
guards 14 by 18" are obtained.                                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Roll or bend the strip around the trunk of the tree so that the                 
long side is up and down the trunk and the edges overlap.  Twist                
a small wire loosely about the center to prevent the strip from                 
unrolling.  Push the lower edges well into the ground.  This                    
metal guard will last indefinitely and can be left in place all                 
year.                                                                           
                                                                                
Other methods of rabbit control have been successful.  Ordinary                 
whitewash has given good results in some instances.  A repellent                
wash recommended by the USDA, containing equal parts of fish oil,               
concentrated lime sulfur, and water is used by some commercial                  
growers.  Also, rabbit repellents under various trade names are                 
available.  All these materials may be applied with a paint brush               
to the trunk of the tree from the ground up into the scaffold                   
limbs.                                                                          
                                                                                
_________________________                                                       
                                                                                
I am considering planting a windbreak of those quick-growing,                   
hybrid poplars.  What can you tell me about these trees?  How                   
fast will they grow, and how wide do they get?                                  
                                                                                
Extensive advertising campaigns have been used to promote sales                 
of hybrid poplars.  Their primary use is for a quick growing                    
timber tree, but they may be used in the home landscape on a                    
limited basis.                                                                  
                                                                                
In your situation, you could use hybrid poplars if the windbreak                
is located away from buildings and valuable landscape plants.                   
The trees tend to be weak wooded.  Falling branches could injure                
other property.                                                                 
                                                                                
Hybrid poplars are not considered a long-lived tree.  Few live to               
be over 40 years old.  An ideal landscape use of these trees                    
would be to plant them as a nurse windbreak.  That is, plant                    
several rows of poplars first, then plant several rows of more                  
desirable windbreak species a few years later.  The poplars will                
protect the more valuable trees from wind as they become establi-               
shed.  When the other trees reach sufficient height and the                     
poplars begin to lose vigor, remove the poplars.                                
                                                                                
Hybrid poplars will grow from 45 to 60 feet tall if given plenty                
of growing room.  In the forest or as a hedge where they are                    
planted close, they can reach 80 to 90 feet in height.  Trees can               
grow up to 10' per year in optimal conditions.  Varieties                       
developed for shade trees can spread to 30-35' in diameter.                     
Screening cultivars will grow about 10' wide.  To attain maximum                
growth, the trees need to be watered, fertilized, and kept free                 
from grass and weed competition.  Use mulch and cultivation                     
equipment to keep the trunks free from weeds.  Do not use                       
herbicides as they can injure the trees.                                        
                                                                                
Rooted cuttings or small trees adapt best when spring planted.                  
They prefer a site with partial to full sun and well-drained                    
soil.                                                                           
                                                                                
Hybrid poplars are prone to winter injury.  In young trees, the                 
entire above ground portion can die back.  Fortunately, poplars                 
have a natural tendency to sprout from the roots and the tree may               
not be lost entirely.  Where there is shallow topsoil and hard                  
compacted subsoil, sprouts may appear yearly.  Prune back sprouts               
each fall.                                                                      
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
October Notes                                                                   
                                                                                
* If the weather stays dry enough before the ground freezes,                    
you can plow. Fall plowing allows earlier planting in the spring                
and is especially good for heavy soils since they are exposed                   
to the freezing and thawing action of winter. This will help                    
improve your soil's structure.                                                  
                                                                                
* Remove any diseased or insect-infested plant material from                    
your garden; it may harbor overwintering stages of disease and                  
insect pests. If you leave this plant material in your garden,                  
you are leaving diseases and insects which will begin to reprod-                
uce again next spring and add to next year's pest problem.                      
                                                                                
* The bitter, golf-ball sized fruits of the trifoliate orange                   
(Poncirus trifoliate) may have some uses after all. Sections                    
of the fruit in hot tea have been reported as tastier than lemon                
and the entire fruit makes an attractive, miniature pomander                    
when filled with cloves and covered with spices.                                
                                                                                
* Use coldframes to overwinter cuttings of trees and shrubs                     
and perennial seedlings started in mid to late summer. Bulbs                    
prepared for forcing can also be stored in coldframes until                     
time to take indoors.                                                           
                                                                                
* Fertilize trees and shrubs that have shown signs of weak growth               
after they are dormant but before soil temperature drops below                  
45 degrees F.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Water trees and shrubs well to increase winter hardiness.                     
                                                                                
* Move and divide crowded perennials. Arrange for swaps with                    
friends and neighbors.                                                          
                                                                                
* Bring in cannas, dahlias, and gladiolas if not hardy in your                  
area after the tops are hurt by frost. Dry, clean, and store                    
in peat moss or vermiculite in a cool location free from frost.                 
                                                                                
* Treat magnolia and beech leaves for dried flower arrangements                 
in a mixture of 1/3 glycerine, 2/3 warm water. Crush stems and                  
submerge 3 weeks to produce a rich, glossy, brown foliage.                      
                                                                                
* Remove leaves from lawns to reduce lawn problems. Compost or                  
save for next year's mulch.                                                     
                                                                                
* Clean up home orchard and small fruit plantings. Sanitation                   
is essential for good maintenance. Dried fruits or "mummies"                    
carry disease organisms through the winter to attack next year's                
crop.                                                                           
                                                                                
* If you have a sunny area to naturalize with small flowering                   
annuals, sow seeds of sweet alyssum or Johnny-jump-ups. They                    
will come up this fall or early spring and bloom extra early                    
next spring. Both are very hardy and self-seed readily to                       
maintain the natural area.                                                      
                                                                                
* In deciding on new trees or shrubs to plant around your home,                 
remember to select varieties with a mature height to fit the                    
desired location. This will greatly reduce pruning and other                    
maintenance in the future.                                                      
                                                                                
* House plants will slow down growth as the days get shorter                    
and light intensity is reduced. This means that they will need                  
less frequent watering and fertilizing until next spring. Too                   
much of either in the winter months can cause weak growth.                      
                                                                                
* Make a note of plants displaying outstanding fall colors                      
as you drive along city streets and the surrounding countryside.                
You may wish to incorporate some of them into your own landscape.               
Fall color can often be enjoyed for much longer than the plant's                
flowers in the spring. For this reason, it may be more desirable                
when selecting trees and shrubs for landscape use to plan                       
greater emphasis on their fall features.                                        
                                                                                
* A great deal of winter losses is the result of plants being                   
allowed to become dry during this season.  This is especially                   
true of evergreens because they hold their leaves and lose water                
all during the winter. If the weather is at all dry, water right                
up to the time the ground freezes hard.                                         
                                                                                
* Do not become alarmed if you yews, pines, arborvitae and                      
junipers begin to shed their innermost needles. It is natural                   
for them to do so at this time of year.                                         
                                                                                
* As you plant spring bulbs, remember that a mass planting                      
of one flower type or color will produce a better effect than a                 
mixture of many colors. Flowers of bulbs stand out more vividly                 
if displayed against a contrasting background: for example, white               
hyacinths among English ivy, yellow daffodils against a `Burford'               
holly hedge, or red tulips towering over a carpet of yellow                     
pansies.                                                                        
                                                                                
* A lily bulb is never dormant; it must be planted as soon as it                
is received. Have beds prepared ahead of time.                                  
                                                                                
* Allow a few of the seeds of your favorite delphinium and holly-               
hock to ripen on their stalks. When mature, plant the seeds                     
at once in a garden bed where they will grow into husky little                  
plants that winter well.                                                        
                                                                                
* To beat birds, squirrels, and other pests to your crops, prompt               
harvest is a must. This month harvest pecans, grapes, and                       
pawpaws.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Bring out the bird feeders and stock them with treats for the                 
birds. Remember to provide fresh water for your feathered                       
friends.                                                                        
                                                                                
* A plant or two of parsley taken from the garden and potted up                 
will do well all winter if watered and set in a sunny window.                   
Chives, sage and thyme can also be maintained in this manner.                   
                                                                                
* If your climbing roses are in an exposed location, tie them up                
firmly with broad strips of rags so that the wind will not whip                 
them against the trellis and bruise the bark.                                   
                                                                                
* Fall is an excellent time for taking soil samples in your lawn                
and garden.  Soil tests will measure the acidity or alkalinity of               
the soil and the levels of some of the major elements required                  
for plant growth: phosphorus, and potassium. Where lime is                      
needed, now is a good time to apply it.                                         
                                                                                
* In preparing flower beds which will be planted next spring, do                
not use quick-acting fertilizers. Nutrients will be leached away                
before spring comes.                                                            
                                                                                
* Surround the trunks of fruit trees with hardware cloth or                     
similar wire, and bury the edges in the ground to prevent rodents               
from chewing on them.                                                           
                                                                                
* Pick bagworms from evergreen shrubs. This will eliminate the                  
overwintering females who would lay eggs next spring.                           
                                                                                
* To protect young trees against deer damage, there are a number                
of deterrents you can try. Remember, deer will become accustomed                
to any object, so alternating items will help. Hang bars of soap,               
mesh bags filled with human hair, bags of dried blood or strips                 
of white plastic trash or freezer bags on trees that are likely                 
to be attacked. Chemical deer repellents can also be used. Be                   
sure to reapply any chemicals after 2 to 3 weeks of normal                      
weathering.                                                                     
                                                                                
* A final weeding of strawberries, blueberries, or raspberries                  
will help keep weed problems down to a minimum. Obtain mulch for                
covering strawberries for November. Apply mulch after the ground                
has frozen.                                                                     
                                                                                
* A ripe apple placed in a closed container with green tomatoes                 
will encourage the tomatoes to turn red. Ripe apples give off                   
ethylene gas which will cause tomatoes to ripen.                                
                                                                                
* Check the fence or arbor to see if it should be protected with                
a fresh coat of stain or a paint job.                                           
                                                                                
* Garden tools add up to a large financial investment. Take care                
of tools so they need not be replaced. Bring all your gardening                 
tools inside. Clean them off. Use a stick to remove soil that is                
caked on. With a rag apply oil to the metal parts of tools to                   
prevent rust. With proper care quality tools can last you a                     
lifetime.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Cure pumpkins, butternut and Hubbard squash at temperatures                   
between 70-80 degrees F for two to three weeks immediately after                
harvest. After curing, store them in a dry place at 55-60 degrees               
F. If stored at 50 degrees F or below, pumpkins and squashes are                
subject to damage by chilling. At temperatures above 60 degrees                 
F, they gradually lose moisture and become stringy.                             
                                                                                
* Fall is the best time for taking a soil tests. Contact your                   
local extension agent for the instructions and a sample box.                    
                                                                                
* Many virus diseases overwinter in the roots of perennial                      
weeds so from the aspect of disease control, good fall cleanup is               
essential.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Add mulch to your perennial border. A one-inch layer of                       
weed-free straw or shredded leaves will help conserve soil                      
moisture, protect the root system, and reduce plant loss by                     
heaving during the winter.                                                      
                                                                                
* Continue to mow your lawn so your lawn grasses will not grow so               
high that they mat down under winter snows. Matted grass is an                  
ideal place for lawn diseases to start.                                         
                                                                                
* Poinsettias are short day plants and need special treatment to                
have them bloom for Christmas. Keep the plants in an area where                 
night temperatures are around 60 degrees F and protect from all                 
light at night. Control day length by placing the plant in a dark               
area at 5:00 p.m. and removing it at 8:00 a.m. Do this for 11                   
weeks; so if you start now, they will bloom for Christmas. In                   
addition to this treatment, be sure to provide them with adequate               
water, fertilizer, and night temperatures to get a healthy                      
display of color for the holidays.                                              
                                                                                
* Houseplants should be well watered throughout the summer months               
when they are growing the most. But, when they are resting during               
the cool winter months, less water should be applied.                           
                                                                                
* Plan for Thanksgiving bouquets, cut chrysanthemum stems before                
heavy frosts. Remove all leaves and plunge stems into a pail of                 
water leaving only the blossoms exposed on top. Store the flowers               
in a cool garage or cellar where they will not freeze. Make                     
flower arrangements 5-7 days before the holiday.                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
THE VIRGINIA GARDENER PRESS RELEASES                                            
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by Virginia Nathan, Extension               
Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Home Horti-                 
culture. The Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed               
for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper features and                     
other educational programs.                                                     
                                                                                
October 1986 Press Release Topics                                               
                                                                                
Barberry Barriers                       66 lines                                
Recycled Leaves Improve Garden Soil     74 lines                                
Soil Composition                        64 lines                                
Low-Growing Junipers                    60 lines                                
Uncommon Hydrangeas for the Landscape   63 lines                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
BARBERRY BARRIERS                                                               
                                                                                
Barberry is a common and useful shrub. Its dense, thorny growth                 
makes it ideal for barrier plantings in many locations. Barberry                
plants grow in almost any soil and endure dry conditions better                 
than many other shrubs. Most species available from nurseries are               
quite hardy.                                                                    
                                                                                
Most barberries have small, yellow, waxy flowers. They are                      
somewhat inconspicuous, but do add interest during the spring                   
blooming season. Fruits of barberry are small berries varying                   
in color from bright red to dark purple. They are an attractive                 
feature of the shrub during autumn.                                             
                                                                                
The hardy Japanese Barberry, and some other deciduous types,                    
retain their bright colored berries all winter. Another attrac-                 
tive feature of deciduous barberries is the brilliant red color                 
of the foliage in autumn.                                                       
                                                                                
The berries of evergreen types fall rather quickly after ripen-                 
ing, or are eated by birds. The spiny foliage of evergreen                      
species provides year-round interest, but does not have as vivid                
fall coloration as deciduous barberries.                                        
                                                                                
Spines of barberry shrubs are a bonus feature which gives it                    
unique value. Plants may be used as a barriers to prevent                       
undesirable traffic crossing the lawn. The dense spiny bushes                   
will control both animal and people movement.                                   
                                                                                
A precaution should be observed. Do not plant the common bar-                   
berry, Berberis vulgaris. It is an alternate host for stem rust                 
of wheat. It may cause severe losses to farmers in areas where                  
wheat is grown. There are many fine species of barberry which are               
resistant to the rust therefore, there is no need to plant common               
barberry, or other species which are susceptible to this disease.               
Types now offered by nurseries are resitant to rust.                            
                                                                                
Japanese Barberry is the most popular and dependable species.                   
The shrub grows to a height of two to six feet depending on                     
cultivar. It is available in red (purplish) or green leaf                       
type. Japanese barberry is of particular interst in the spring                  
when it has its waxy yellow flower, last year's red berries, and                
new green leaves. In the fall the foliage turns brilliant red. It               
has a place in almost all home landscape plantings.                             
                                                                                
Two common cultivars of Japanese barberry are 'Crimson Pygmy' and               
`Aurea' (also called yellow barberry). 'Crimson Pygmy' is a                     
minature red-leafed barberry. It is a fine shrub to use as a low                
hedge or border plant. When mature it reaches about two feet with               
a spread of three feet. 'Aurea' is a colorful, slow-growing plant               
which attains a height of about four feet. It has attractive                    
yellowish foliage when grown in full sun.                                       
                                                                                
Among the best evergreen barberries is Chenault barberry. Plants                
grow 3-4 feet tall. The foliage turns bronze-red in the fall. It                
is a fine shrub in a foundation planting or hedge.                              
                                                                                
Wintergreen barberry is probably the hardiest of the evergreen                  
barberries although leaf burning may occur after exposure to                    
severe cold temperatures. Plants form a 6-8 foot mound of dense                 
branches almost impenetrable by people or pets. For this reason,                
it makes a good barrier or hedge.                                               
                                                                                
Descriptions and pictures of the most popular and useful species                
of barberry may be found in nursery catalogs. They may be                       
planted in fall about a month or six weeks after the first                      
killing frost in your area.                                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
RECYCLED LEAVES IMPROVE GARDEN SOIL                                             
                                                                                
The leaves which add color to the autumn landscape become a fine                
source of organic matter for your garden when they fall. Gather-                
ing them makes extra work but it is worth the effort because of                 
their value as mulch or as a component of compost. Leaves which                 
fall onto lawns, should be raked up so they will not smother                    
grass and cause bare spots in the turf next summer.                             
                                                                                
If your lawn is small, raking leaves will provide pleasant                      
exercise on a sunny afternoon. A lawn sweeper or vacuum will make               
the job easier if you have a large lot with many trees. Lawn                    
mowers equipt with collecting bags can be used on any size lawn.                
You will be able to collect leaves while trimming the grass                     
saving several steps.                                                           
                                                                                
The problem of disposing of leaves is easy if you save them for                 
mulch or compost. Avoid burning this valuable material as this                  
practice pollutes the air and destroys organic matter which can                 
benefit your garden can benefit.                                                
                                                                                
Mulching                                                                        
You can secure double value from leaves by using a 2-3 inch layer               
as mulch in your vegetable or flower garden during the summer.                  
Then plow or rototill them into the soil in fall. As a mulch they               
conserve moisture, temper changes in soil temperature and control               
weeds. When plowed into the ground, leaves decompose improving                  
soil structure and adding nutrients.                                            
                                                                                
In most locations, leaves used as mulch tend to anchor themselves               
after the first rain or two. But if your yard is in a windy                     
location, coarse leaves may blow around. Try shredding them to                  
make a mulch which stays in place. A shredding machine is the                   
best method for grinding leaves. It will reduce the leaves to                   
about ten percent of their original volume.                                     
                                                                                
If you have no access to a shredder, run over leaves with a                     
rotary lawn mower. Spread leaves in a long low pile on a smooth                 
paved surface and mow over them several times. If they are dry                  
and brittle this procedure should reduce them to about 25 percent               
of their original volume. Finely chopped leaves make a fine mulch               
material, or an addition to the compost pile which decomposes                   
rapidly.                                                                        
                                                                                
A practice especially effective to reduce soil erosion and weed                 
invasion in gardens is clump mulching. Save autumn leaves                       
for clump mulching by piling loose leaves in a back corner of                   
your lot and allow them to weather over winter. To avoid having                 
leaves blow around, enclose the pile with chicken wire or snow                  
fence. In spring, lift 2-3" thick clumps of leaves off the pile                 
and place them on soil or around the base of plants.                            
                                                                                
Organic mulch such as leaves are also useful as winter protection               
to newly planted evergreens, low growing plants, bulbs and tender               
plants especially when there is little snow cover. Mulching will                
help prevent plants from being heaved out of the ground by                      
alternated freezing and thawing. Avoid to thick a layer which                   
can compact and cause rotting of foliage.                                       
                                                                                
Composting                                                                      
Composting leaves will also reduce their original volume and                    
produce a material beneficial to garden soil. Through composting,               
large amounts of organic refuse can be reduced to a pile of                     
crumbly, black humus which makes an ideal soil conditioner.                     
Compost added regularly to the soil will improve soil structure.                
In clay soil, this leads to increasing air spaces thus improving                
drainage and air infiltration into the soil. In sandy soil, humus               
helps soil particles stick together adding to the nutrient- and                 
moisture-holding capacities.                                                    
                                                                                
Leaves make a fine addition to a compost pile used to decompose                 
kitchen wastes and garden refuse. Details for starting a compost                
pile can be found in Extension publication #426-325 and many                    
gardening books. Extension publications can be obtained from                    
your local Extension office.                                                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
SOIL COMPOSITION                                                                
                                                                                
Soil is composed of three ingredients: particles of broken                      
rock, organic matter, and microorganisms. When water and air are                
present in proper amounts, this mixture provides physical and                   
nutritional support for plants.                                                 
                                                                                
The texture of soil, which refers to the size of the rock                       
particles, is the most important feature in determining whether                 
it is good or poor for a garden. Particle size varies from sand                 
which is coarse, to silt which is fine, and to clay which is                    
very fine. The size of the particle determines the total surface                
area in a given amount of soil. This in turn determines the                     
nutrient holding ability. Small particles such as clay have a                   
great deal of total surface area therefore hold nutrients                       
readily. Particle size also influences the amount of air space                  
between particles and the ability of the soil to hold water.                    
                                                                                
Coarse sandy soils are infertile and hold very little water.                    
Clay, on the other hand, with its very fine texture, is quite                   
fertile. Clay particles pack closely together and hold large                    
amounts of water making them heavy and hard to work. Silt is                    
between sand and clay in fineness and also in its fertility and                 
water holding capacity.                                                         
                                                                                
Organic matter is a very important material because it adds                     
fertility and improves the water holding capacity of sandy                      
soils. It is very useful in clay soils because it loosens them                  
and makes them easier to work.                                                  
                                                                                
Loam, the ideal soil type, is composed of a mixture of sand,                    
silt, clay, and organic matter. It is ideal because sand provides               
aeration and drainage, and silt, clay and organic matter give                   
fertility and water holding ability.                                            
                                                                                
In your home garden you cannot easily change the amount of sand                 
or clay in your soil. However, by using organic matter, you can                 
improve either one and make it more productive and easier to                    
work.                                                                           
                                                                                
One of the best ways to improve soil is to use an organic mulch                 
such as straw, grass clippings or leaves during the growing                     
season. In fall, till in the organic mulch along with old                       
vegetable and flower plants which have been cut into pieces about               
six to eight inches long. Before chopping garden debris, check to               
make sure it does not harbor disease or insect pests which can                  
overwinter. Infested plant material is best disgarded or added to               
a 'hot' (active) compost pile.                                                  
                                                                                
Working soil in fall has several advantages over traditional                    
spring plowing: 1)It allows for earlier spring planting; 2)Organ-               
ic matter decomposes better while soil is still warm in fall;                   
3)Insects, disease organisms, and perennial weeds may be reduced                
by exposure to harsh winter weather; 4)The physical condition                   
of heavy clay can be improved by alternate freezing and thawing.                
                                                                                
Fall plowing is not recommended for hillsides or steep garden                   
plots since the soil would be subject to erosion all winter.                    
A winter cover crop such as winter rye may be grown to improve                  
soil and decrease erosion. Alternatively, leave coarsely chopped                
garden refuse on the garden as a winter mulch. Plow the cover                   
crop or plant debris into the soil in spring along with an                      
application of fertilizer. Spring plowing is also better for                    
sandy soils and where shallow tilling is practiced.                             
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
LOW GROWING JUNIPERS                                                            
                                                                                
Among the conifers, junipers provide some of the most desirable                 
forms of ground covers. They are extremely valuable both aesthe-                
tically and practically, and are useful in various situations.                  
Some varieties maintain neat, prostrate growth and are suitable                 
for formal as well as informal sites.                                           
                                                                                
Juniper foliage varies through shades of green, gray and blue,                  
with many different textures. Junipers are effective, long-endur-               
ing covers for many difficult situations. The following varie-                  
ties have been useful for problem areas in either full or partial               
sun:                                                                            
                                                                                
Creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) is a native North                     
American prostrate shrub with rapidly extending long branches.                  
Its rate of growth is slow to medium; established plants gain                   
over 1' in diameter per year.                                                   
                                                                                
Several named forms have been introduced, each slighty varied in                
color and growth habit. Selected favorites include: 1)'Bar                      
Harbor' which closely hugs the ground (12" tall) and spreads in                 
all directions maturing at 6-8' in width. Its very short ascend-                
ing branchlets are waxy and grey-green. 2)'Wiltonii', also called               
Blue Rug, one of the best and most popular forms is more compact                
than 'Bar Harbor'. It forms silvery blue capet up to 6" tall and                
8' wide. Foliage assumes a light purple tinge in winter. 'Wil-                  
tonii' is one of the faster growing juniper.                                    
                                                                                
Japanese garden juniper (Juniperus procumbens) has stiff branches               
covered with grey-green foliage. Like creeping juniper, well                    
cared for plants can grow over a foot in diameter per year.                     
Plants are tolerant of many soils but needs full sun.                           
                                                                                
Japanese garden juniper forms a handsome ground cover for beds,                 
borders, terraces and hillsides. The dwarf cultivar 'Nana' is                   
bluish green in summer and purple tinged in winter.                             
                                                                                
Shore juniper (Juniperus conferta) is a native of the sea coasts                
of Japan. It is prostrate with short, ascending, bright green                   
branches which contrast with other blue, grey or dark green                     
junipers. Shore junipers grow slower than either creeping or                    
Japanese garden juniper.. At maturity, plants will spread over                  
6'.                                                                             
                                                                                
Shore juniper is an invaluable undemanding carpet for many                      
difficult areas. It is tolerant of salt spray and poor soils. Use               
shore juniper on banks, in planter boxer or where it can cascade                
over a wall.                                                                    
                                                                                
One to two year old plants of ground cover junipers are set                     
36" from each other. In areas where there are are more than two                 
rows of plants, rows should be staggered so that the plants of                  
every other row are between the plants in the adjacent row. A                   
2" layer of a coarse organic mulch such as shredded pine bark                   
looks good around the plants, conserves moisture, and reduces                   
weed encroachment as the plants get established. When fall                      
planting, be sure to soak the soil around newly planted woody                   
ornamentals each week.                                                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
UNCOMMON HYDRANGEAS FOR THE LANDSCAPE                                           
                                                                                
Hydrangeas attract attention wherever they are planted. Large                   
flower heads adorn the plants from midsummer until frost.                       
Most species are best used for mass plantings and in shrub                      
borders. Dwarf forms and less common species becoming available                 
in nurseries may be suited for an area of your landscape.                       
                                                                                
Dwarf Hydrangea 'Forever Pink'                                                  
The Dwarf Hydrangea 'Forever Pink' is an unusual hydrangea                      
because its large, bright pink flower heads begin to appear in                  
June, an entire month earlier than other Hydrangeas. The floral                 
interest continues reliably until the first frost.                              
                                                                                
The petite size of this plant, 2-3 feet, is also unique in                      
hydrangeas as most varieties mature at 5 feet. Glossy, dark green               
foliage, which stays attractive until a hard frost, and compact                 
rounded habit are other stunning features which can make this                   
plant a star in your yard.                                                      
                                                                                
For best results, purchase hydrangeas grown as container plants.                
Locate plants in a moist, well-drained soil amended with peat                   
moss. pH 6.0-6.5 is ideal. 'Forever Pink' will tolerate a                       
fully shaded spot, but for the fullest effect from the 4" flower                
heads and glossy green foliage give it more sun if possible.                    
                                                                                
You may want to use this multi-featured shrub in a mixed border,                
around the foundation of your house, or as a specimen plant to                  
attract deserved attention. The problems homeowners should keep                 
an eye out for with 'Forever Pink' are aphids, nematodes, and                   
powdery mildew.                                                                 
                                                                                
Oakleaf Hydrangea                                                               
Oakleaf Hydrangea is another excellent choice for a shrub border                
or it may be appropriate in your landscape as a large foundation                
plant. It is hardy in zones 5-9 which makes it a splendid                       
specimen throughout Virginia. It has an upright irregular habit.                
Plants mature at 6-8 feet in height.  year round coarse texture                 
because of its large leaves (3"-8" long).                                       
                                                                                
Some of the ornamental features associated with oakleaf hydrangea               
are the older cinnamon-brown bark of mature plants which exfoli-                
ates; large, dark green, oak-like leaves which give the plant a                 
coarse visual texture; showy fall color of orange, red, and                     
purple; and showy bracts surrounding the flowers. The ornamental                
bracts provide floral interest late June through July. They are                 
white at first, change to pink as summer progresses, and then                   
to brown in late fall. The paper bracts cling to the plant into                 
winter providing yet another season of interest in the landscape.               
                                                                                
Best conditions for Oakleaf Hydrangea are full sun to partial                   
shade and moist, fertile, well-drained soil. Partial shade is                   
important for plant vigor in the warmer regions of the state.                   
Care for this plant should include keeping it in moist soil                     
and pruning it after flowering in late summer or possibly later,                
if height control is necessary.                                                 
                                                                                
Uses for this plant are limited to shrub borders and shady                      
areas because of its texture. It is an attractive plant which                   
should have no problem finding a place in many landscape situ-                  
ations. Some available cultivars of Oakleaf Hydrangea are                       
'Harmony', 'Roanoke', and 'Snowflake'.                                          
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
THE VIRGINIA GARDENER QUESTION BOX                                              
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan, Horticulture                     
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Special-               
ist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has                   
been developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                   
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
October 1986 Topics                                                             
                                                                                
Root Drying in Transplants                      33 lines                        
Winterberry, A Groundcover                      21 lines                        
Berm Construction                               34 lines                        
Jerusalem Artichokes                            42 lines                        
Tea Viburnub Shrub                              16 lines                        
Bulb Hardiness Relates to Soil Temperature      40 lines                        
Frost Protection with a Water Spray             21 lines                        
Shrub Hardiness                                 63 lines                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
How fast do exposed tree roots dry out? Should I soak tree roots                
which arrive dry in the mail? Should I keep the roots in water as               
I transplant?                                                                   
                                                                                
Recent experiments in England provide some data which begins to                 
answer your questions. One-year-old birch and ash seedlings were                
dug from nursery beds, then allowed to dry out at room tempera-                 
ture and about 50% relative humidity for up to 72 hours. It was                 
found that lateral roots lost moisture more quickly than tap                    
roots. Half of the water initially in laterals can be lost in                   
under two hours, while a similar loss from tap roots takes about                
three hours. Laterals were bone dry after about 20 hours, but tap               
roots retained a bit of water even after 72 hours of drying.                    
                                                                                
It appears that a few minutes of drying has neglible effect on                  
root system health of some broad-leaf trees, but needle-leaf                    
trees may drop needles if allowed to dry out.                                   
                                                                                
Should roots that arrive dry in the mail be soaked before                       
planting? The English research suggests a cautious "yes". Soaking               
birch and ash roots that had been dried for several hours                       
sometimes resulted in better growth. No harm was seen due                       
to soaking for a short period of time.                                          
                                                                                
If plants arrive in questionable condition, check for signs of                  
life in the roots and stems of trees by scratching off a small                  
area of bark. Look for succulent, light-colored tissue under-                   
neath. Plant new purchases as soon as possible. Although nurser-                
ies usually ship plants in good condition and with adequate                     
packing to retain moisture, plants too long in transit can dry                  
out to a damaging level. Do not hesitate to return plants if they               
arrive in poor shape. If something fails to grow, notify the                    
nursery immediately.                                                            
                                                                                
 --------                                                                       
                                                                                
Are parts of the groundcover wintergreen edible? Is it native to                
Virginia? Can it be grown from seed?                                            
                                                                                
Wintergreen or checkerberry (Gaultheria procumbens) is native to                
the eastern part of Canada and the U.S. occurring as far south as               
Alabama. Growing in deep woods, it makes an evergreen carpet,                   
with tiny leaves all along its slender branches. Small white bell               
flowers are borne in the leaf axils in late spring through early                
fall. Fragrant, 1/3", red berries which begin ripening in late                  
summer are easy to harvest and delectable fresh or cooked. The                  
flavor is unique, a delicately sweet, slightly acidic winter-                   
green. Oil extracted from leaves was the original source of                     
wintergreen flavoring.                                                          
                                                                                
Wintergreen is a delightful, edible, ornamental groundcover for                 
light to deep shade and organic, acidic soil. Given these condi-                
tions it will ramble over rotting logs and stumps and thrive                    
under all sorts of acid-loving shrubs.                                          
Seed of creeping wintergreen can be collected from wild plants or               
ordered from nurseries specializing in native plants. They should               
be sown in autumn. Plants can also be propagated by division and                
root or stem cuttings in late spring.                                           
                                                                                
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Can you offer any pointers for constructing and planting a hill                 
(berm) in the landscape?                                                        
                                                                                
A well-designed berm or man-made "hill" can be a landscape asset.               
Even a low berm adds considerable interest on a flat property. A                
berm will provide screening for privacy, deflect and absorb                     
noise, or redirect wind or water flow where necessary. It can                   
also improve the microclimates for plants, its south side staying               
warmer all year, the north side cooler.                                         
                                                                                
A berm should be asymmetrical, its peak located near one end or                 
one side rather than in the center. Try to vary the height, width               
and degree of slope as much as possible, or have several peaks,                 
or even make two or more berms of different sizes and contouring                
if space permits.                                                               
                                                                                
Soft contouring is essential; the berm should never look like                   
just a bump on the land. Make the change from flat ground to the                
berm's slopes very gradual, and keep the crown of the berm gently               
rounded. This will both make the berm appear to be a natural                    
feature of the landscape and make plant maintenance easier.                     
                                                                                
Plantings should accentuate the form of the berm. Plant several                 
trees along the sides rather than at the top. Shrubs are general-               
ly best in masses that flow across or around the berm to empha-                 
size its form. Remember that too many individual plants will                    
cause the landscape to look ununified. Mulch or groundcover                     
plants should cover the entire surface to minimize erosion. Grass               
is rarely used on berms because of difficulty of mowing on a                    
slope.                                                                          
                                                                                
Be sure not to construct a berm where the built-up soil would                   
smother the roots of existing trees. Where space is limited, a                  
retaining wall can be used on one side of the berm instead of a                 
slope.                                                                          
                                                                                
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Please tell me what to do with Jerusalem artichokes, those funny                
looking potato-like vegetables in the specialty produce section.                
Are they locally grown?                                                         
                                                                                
Jerusalem artichokes, native Eastern wildflowers, were very well                
known to the Indians and Colonial Americans. They are reappearing               
in markets and some nursery catalogs, but most gardeners and                    
shoppers still don't know what they are looking at when they see                
Jerusalem artichokes - or what to do with them.                                 
                                                                                
The edible tubers grow underground and look like knobby whitish                 
potatoes. Tubers can be peeled and cooked exactly like potatoes,                
or sliced raw into a salad. The texture is apple-crisp with a                   
flavor much like that of water chestnuts for which they are a                   
good substitute.                                                                
                                                                                
Jerusalem artichokes store for up to one month in a perforated                  
plastic bag in the crisper of the refrigerator. Tubers also keep                
well in the soil where they were grown if the plot is covered                   
with a thick layer of straw or other organic mulch in fall.                     
Unlike potatoes, if tubers are dug and stored in a dry environ-                 
ment, they soon shrivel because of their thin skin.                             
                                                                                
Jerusalem artichokes thrive everywhere in the U.S. except the                   
deep South. A few mail-order nurseries carry seed tubers. Culture               
is simple. Spade the soil well, and plant tubers about 4 inches                 
deep and a foot apart. If the soil is moderately fertile nothing                
else is needed, although some gardeners like to spade in 3 inches               
of compost and mulch with the same amount each spring. The plants               
prefer full sun but do well even in a partly shaded area. Few                   
pests bother Jerusalem artichokes in gardens.                                   
                                                                                
Like potatoes, tubers of Jerusalem artichokes develop after top                 
growth is well developed. Stalks die at the end of summer but                   
tubers live on sprouting the next spring about April. In fact, in               
clay soil volunteer plants can become pesty and difficult to                    
eradicate. Roots grown in heavy clay also tend to be small and                  
misshapened.                                                                    
                                                                                
Cut dead stalks down in late fall and mulch heavily. Dig tubers                 
as needed. Those you overlook along with the ones too small to                  
bother harvesting will grow next year's crop. The harvest                       
averages about a pound per plant per season.                                    
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
What can you tell me about the tea viburnum shrub?                              
                                                                                
Tea viburnum (Viburnum setigerum) is a native of China. It is one               
of the lesser known viburnums but quite useful in landscapes.                   
Growing narrowly upright to 10', it is better suited in small                   
gardens than the more vigorous viburnum species. Its graceful                   
habit, lustrous leaves, and white flowers in spring make it                     
useful for foundation and border plantings.                                     
                                                                                
In fall tea viburnum becomes a real stand-out, its branches                     
literally weighted down with great clusters of brilliant red                    
fruit. These persist until long after the bronze-green foliage                  
has fallen, ignored by birds while other food is present,. The                  
shrub is hardy to -15 degrees F in a protected spot. An orange--                
fruited cultivar `Aurantiacum' is available from some nurseries.                
(For more information on Viburnums see The Virginia Gardener                    
Vol.3, No.11 and Vol.4, No.4.                                                   
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
Each year I loose some spring bulbs - I think to the cold. Which                
bulbs can I rely on in the mountains of Virginia?                               
                                                                                
If you're planning to plant "hardy bulbs" this fall, be advised                 
that the widely published hardiness zones are based on minimum                  
air temperatures. According to horticulturists at the University                
of Minnesota, the appropriate criterion for rating hardiness of                 
bulbous plants is soil temperature. In the mid 1970's reasearch-                
ers there measured soil temperatures causing severe injury to                   
several species of bulbous plants. Here are the results:                        
                                                                                
Species						Soil Temp. for Severe Injury                                       
                                      in degrees Fahrenheit                     
Allium Moly/lily leek					20                                                    
Allium neapolitanum/daffodil garlic		16                                         
Anemone blanda/Greek anemone				16                                              
Camassia Quamash/quamash					 4                                                 
Crocus speciosus/crocus					16                                                  
Endymion hispanicus/Spanish bluebell		16                                        
Eranthis hyemalis/winter aconite			12                                           
Galanthus nivalis/common snowdrop			16                                          
Hyacinthus orientalis/hyacinth			16                                             
	(cv.`King of the Blues')                                                       
Ixia species/corn lily					28                                                   
Iriolirion tataricum/Siberian lily			 0                                         
Leucjum aestivum/giant snowflake			20                                           
Muscari armeniacum/Armenian grape hyacinth	16                                   
	(cv.`Blue Spike')                                                              
Puschkinia scilloides/striped squill		16                                        
Scilla siberica/Siberian squill			12                                            
Scilla Tubergenianal/squill				16                                               
Sparaxis tricolor/wandflower				28                                              
Sternbergia lutea/winter daffodil			20                                          
Tulipa Fosterana/tulip					 8                                                   
	(cv.`Red Emperor')                                                             
Tulipa generana/tulip					 8                                                    
	(cv. `Apledoorn')                                                              
Tulipa Kaufmaniana/water-lily tulip		16                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
You may wish to start monitoring soil temperature with an                       
inexpensive soil thermometer available from some garden centers                 
and mail order garden supply companies. If you know local                       
expected minimum soil temperatures at bulb planting depths, the                 
above table will give you a rough indication of which bulbs                     
should be hardy for you. Marginal locations can be improved by                  
adding mulch to the soil surface after it freezes.                              
                                                                                
 --------                                                                       
                                                                                
Have you heard about spraying water on plants to protect them                   
from frost? How does this work?                                                 
                                                                                
Protection against an early frost may be given to particularly                  
valuable specimen plants and crops by spraying them with a                      
gentle, continuous spray of water. When the air temperature drops               
below freezing, the water sprayed onto the plants begins to form                
ice. During the process of freezing, water gives off heat.                      
Enough heat is absorbed by the plants to prevent them from                      
freezing.                                                                       
                                                                                
The application of the water should begin when the temperature                  
descends to 34 degrees F at the height of the plants. A station-                
ary or rotary sprinkler will give satisfactory results. Watering                
must be constant throughout the period when air temperature is                  
below freezing and continued until all ice has melted from the                  
plants. Satisfactory frost protection can be obtained in many                   
cases, even when the temperature drops as low as 20 degrees F.                  
But use this technique with caution as ice build up during a                    
prolonged freeze can result in breakage or other damage to the                  
plants.                                                                         
                                                                                
___________                                                                     
                                                                                
Why are some shrubs more hardy than others? Why do certain                      
species or varieties of shrubs, roses, or perennials survive the                
winter, while others die, or become so badly damaged that they                  
need to be replaced in the spring?                                              
                                                                                
The type of hardiness you refer to relates to a plant's ability                 
to tolerate severe winter weather with little or no injury. For                 
most plants the answer to the hardiness question is quite simple.               
Hardy plants bind the water in their cells so tightly in a                      
colloidal complex, that it does not freeze at the usual tempera-                
ture. Thus, the first solution to the hardiness problem is to                   
select hardy shrubs.                                                            
                                                                                
The other half of the answer to hardiness concerns the way                      
you treat your plants during the summer. Fertilize shrubs                       
and perennial plants in the spring, not late in the season., As                 
late summer approaches, active growth should cease. This is a                   
natural process which may be promoted by withholding fertilizer                 
and providing only moderate amounts of water. This practice                     
allows carbohydrates to accumulate which increase the amount of                 
bound water and also the hardiness. Control weeds and supply                    
water as needed during the summer to promote green, vigorous                    
growth. Disease and insect pests must be controlled too if shrubs               
are to have good foliage and develop their maximum hardiness.                   
Severe foliage damage will reduce carbohydrate formation, and                   
prevent plants from maturing properly. Keep your plants healthy.                
They will be more attractive in the landscape and more resistant                
to damage by cold.                                                              
                                                                                
Shrubs may be stimulated into renewed growth by rainy weather in                
the fall, if they have been damaged by pests or drought in the                  
summer. In some cases a late crop of flowers may develop. Fall                  
growth of this sort will utilize carbohydrate reserves and be                   
immature. It may be injured if cold weather occurs early in the                 
winter.                                                                         
                                                                                
Heavy pruning of shrubs and fruit trees should be avoided in the                
fall and early winter. Pruning at this time removes reserve foods               
and shocks plants making them becomes more susceptible to winter                
injury, especially if a rapid and severe drop in temperature                    
occurs. Heavy pruning in late summer should also be avoided as                  
it stimulates new growth that will not have time to mature                      
before cold weather arrives.                                                    
                                                                                
Also be concerned about desiccation or water loss from plant                    
tissues during the winter. This type of damage, called windburn                 
or sunburn, may be severe enough to cause death, especially on                  
evergreen shrubs. The best way to prevent injury by dessiccation                
is to be sure the soil around the shrub is moist before the                     
ground freezes. This is especially true for plants which have not               
become established after being transplanted. If there is insuffi-               
cient rainfall to keep soil around shrubs moist, start watering                 
shrubs at about the average date of the first fall frost. At this               
time there will be no possibility of causing tender, late season                
growth. Apply water at weekly intervals until the ground freezes.               
                                                                                
Evergreen shrubs located on windy sites may be dried out quite                  
severely even on moist soils. This damage may be reduced or                     
prevented by wrapping the plants in burlap. Spraying the foliage                
with an anti-wilt spray also helps, but plants must be sprayed                  
regularly, as often as weekly, as the compound breaks down                      
readily. The best solution is to move tender shrubs to a better                 
location and replant the area with species that can withstand                   
harsh conditions.                                                               
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Monthly Notes for October 1987                                                  
                                                                                
Herbaceous Plants                                                               
                                                                                
* Move and divide crowded perennials. Arrange for swaps with                    
friends and neighbors.                                                          
                                                                                
* Add mulch to your perennial border. A one-inch layer of                       
weed-free straw or chopped leaves will help conserve soil                       
moisture, protect the root system, and reduce plant loss from                   
heaving during the winter.                                                      
                                                                                
* A lily bulb is never dormant; it must be planted as soon as it                
is received. Have beds prepared ahead of time.                                  
                                                                                
* If your climbing roses are in an exposed location, tie them up                
firmly with broad strips of rags so that the wind will not whip                 
them against the trellis and bruise the bark.                                   
                                                                                
* It is too late this year to prune roses as they would become                  
subject to winter injury. However, the rose garden should be                    
raked and cleaned to prevent black spot and other diseases.                     
Additional mulch should be added after the ground has frozen.                   
                                                                                
* For colorful greenery in window boxes during the winter, try a                
varigated variety of Vinca minor with its evergreen foliage.                    
                                                                                
* Plan for Thanksgiving bouquets, cut chrysanthemum stems before                
heavy frosts. Remove all leaves and plunge stems into a pail of                 
water leaving only the blossoms exposed on top. Store the flowers               
in a cool garage or cellar where they will not freeze. Make                     
flower arrangements 5-7 days before the holiday.                                
                                                                                
* Bring in cannas, dahlias, and gladiolas if not hardy in your                  
area after the tops are hurt by frost. Dry, clean, and store in                 
peat moss or vermiculite in a cool location free from frost.                    
                                                                                
* Use coldframes to overwinter cuttings of trees and shrubs and                 
perennial seedlings started in mid to late summer. Bulbs prepared               
for forcing can also be stored in coldframes until time to take                 
indoors.                                                                        
                                                                                
Herbs                                                                           
                                                                                
* A plant or two of parsley taken from the garden and potted up                 
will do well all winter if watered and set in a sunny window.                   
Chives, sage, and thyme can also be maintained in this manner.                  
                                                                                
Woody Ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* Water evergreens thoroughly before the ground freezes.                        
Evergreens continue to lose water by transpiring during the                     
winter, but when the ground is frozen they cannot replenish the                 
water.                                                                          
                                                                                
* The bitter, golf-ball sized fruits of the trifoliate orange                   
(Poncirus trifoliate) may have some uses after all. Sections of                 
the fruit in hot tea have been reported as tastier than lemon and               
the entire fruit make an attractive, miniature pomander when                    
covered with cloves and coated with spices.                                     
                                                                                
* Fertilize trees and shrubs that have shown signs of weak growth               
after they are dormant but before soil temperature drops below 45               
degrees F.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Water trees and shrubs well to increase winter hardiness.                     
                                                                                
* The eastern native, Canby paxistima (Paxistima canbyi) makes a                
fine, carefree evergreen groundcover or low hedge.  It grows                    
about 1' tall and 3' to 5' across. A handsome small leaved plant                
it grows well in sun or light shade. Plants will tolerate high pH               
soil if it is high in organic matter and well drained. Once                     
established, it requires little attention.                                      
                                                                                
* Do not become alarmed if yews, pines, arborvitae and junipers                 
begin to shed their innermost needles. It is natural for them to                
do so at this time of year.                                                     
                                                                                
* Pick bagworms from evergreen shrubs. This will eliminate the                  
overwintering females who would lay eggs next spring.                           
Landscape                                                                       
                                                                                
* In deciding on new trees or shrubs to plant around your home,                 
remember to select varieties with a mature height to fit the                    
desired location. This will greatly reduce pruning and other                    
maintenance in the future.                                                      
                                                                                
* Fall color can often be enjoyed for much longer than the                      
plant's flowers in the spring. For this reason, it may be more                  
desirable when selecting trees and shrubs for landscape use to                  
plan greater emphasis on their fall features.                                   
                                                                                
* Make a note of plants displaying outstanding fall colors as you               
drive along city streets and the surrounding countryside.  You                  
may wish to incorporate some of them into your own landscape.                   
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
* Remove leaves from the lawn to reduce problems. Compost or save               
for next year's mulch.                                                          
                                                                                
* Mow lawn for as long as it continues to grow to prevent matting               
through the winter which encourages root rots.                                  
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* Many virus diseases overwinter in the roots of perennial weeds.               
Tomato mosaic virus overwinters in the roots of ground cherry,                  
horsenettle, jimson weed, nightshade, and bittersweet; cucumber                 
mosaic virus lives in the roots of milkweed, catnip, white                      
cockle, hollyhock, and wild bluebell; bean mosaic overwinters in                
white sweet clover roots; and lettuce yellows virus and lettuce                 
mosaic virus overwinter in most field weeds. So, from the aspect                
of disease control, it is evident that a good fall cleanup is                   
essential.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Remove any diseased or insect-infested plant material from your               
garden; it may harbor overwintering stages of disease and insect                
pests. If you leave this plant material in your garden, you are                 
leaving diseases and insects which will begin to reproduce again                
next spring and add to next year's pest problem.                                
                                                                                
* Cure butternut and Hubbard squash at temperatures between 70-80               
degrees F for two to three weeks immediately after harvest. After               
curing, store them in a dry place at 55-60 degrees F. If stored                 
at 50 degrees F or below, squashes are subject to damage by                     
chilling. At temperatures above 60 degrees F, they gradually lose               
moisture and become stringy.                                                    
                                                                                
* A ripe apple placed in a closed container with green tomatoes                 
will encourage the tomatoes to turn red. Ripe apples give off                   
ethylene gas which will cause tomatoes to ripen.                                
                                                                                
* Pumpkins which are free from insects, disease or damage will                  
keep 2-3 months if stored at 50-55 degrees F with a relative                    
humidity of 70-75%.                                                             
                                                                                
Fruits/ Nuts                                                                    
                                                                                
* Surround the trunks of fruit trees with hardware cloth or                     
similar wire, and bury the edges in the ground to prevent rodents               
from chewing on the bark.                                                       
                                                                                
* Clean up home orchard and small fruit plantings. Sanitation is                
essential for good maintenance. Dried fruits or "mummies" carry                 
disease organisms through the winter to attack next year's crop.                
                                                                                
* Nut trees are a fine addition to the home landscape. They may                 
accent the house, provide shade in the summer, and even become a                
good source of home grown nuts.                                                 
                                                                                
* To beat birds, squirrels, and other pests to your crops, prompt               
harvest is a must. This month harvest pecans and pawpaws.                       
                                                                                
* A final weeding of strawberries, blueberries, or raspberries                  
will help keep weed problems down to a minimum. Order mulch for                 
your strawberries for November. Apply mulch after the ground has                
frozen.                                                                         
                                                                                
Indoor Plants                                                                   
                                                                                
* House plants will slow down growth as the days get shorter and                
light intensity is reduced. This means that they will need less                 
frequent watering and fertilizing until next spring. Too much of                
either in the winter months can cause weak growth.                              
                                                                                
* Christmas cactus need special care now to reveal its beautiful                
flowers this December. Buds will form at 50-60 degrees F in a                   
spare room or if the plant is insured of at least 13 hours of                   
complete darkness each night. The extra effort is well worth it.                
                                                                                
* House plants need to come indoors before they are damaged by                  
the cold (below 50 degrees F). First be sure to check them for                  
pests. Rinse the plants' leaves and soak pots in water for 15-20                
minutes to drown most soil-dwelling pests.                                      
                                                                                
* House plants should be well watered throughout the summer                     
months when they are growing the most. But, when they are resting               
during the cool winter months, less water should be applied.                    
                                                                                
* Poinsettias are short day plants and need special treatment to                
have them bloom for Christmas. Keep the plants in an area where                 
night temperatures are around 60 degrees F. Control day length by               
placing the plant in a dark area at 5:00 p.m. and removing it at                
8:00 a.m. Do this for 11 weeks; so if you start now, they will                  
bloom for Christmas. In addition to this treatment, be sure to                  
provide them with adequate water, fertilizer, and night                         
temperatures to get a healthy display of color for the holidays.                
                                                                                
Tools and Equipment                                                             
                                                                                
* The cool dry days of fall are an ideal time for painting                      
buildings and wood fences. The job will enhance the beauty,                     
usefulness, and value of your property.                                         
                                                                                
* During fall, demand for garden supplies is low, so keep an eye                
open for special prices on hand tools and power equipment to be                 
given as gifts or used next year.                                               
                                                                                
* Garden tools add up to a large financial investment. Take care                
of tools so they need not be replaced. Bring all gardening tools                
inside and clean them. Use a stick to remove soil that is caked                 
on. With a rag apply oil to the metal parts of tools to prevent                 
rust. With proper care quality tools can last a lifetime.                       
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* To speed decomposition of organic material in the garden,                     
sprinkle a quick release nitrogen fertilizer over the plant                     
material before working it into the soil. Turn the soil every 2-3               
weeks until decomposition is complete.                                          
                                                                                
* Quick acting fertilizers applied to bare soil during the fall                 
will be leached away before spring. Use materials which take a                  
long time to break down and become available to plants, such as                 
bone meal.                                                                      
                                                                                
* If the weather stays dry enough before the ground freezes, you                
can plow. Fall plowing allows earlier planting in the spring and                
is especially good for heavy soils since they are exposed to the                
freezing and thawing action of winter. This will help improve                   
your soil's structure.                                                          
                                                                                
* Fall is an excellent time for taking soil samples in your lawn                
and garden.  Soil tests will measure the acidity or alkalinity of               
the soil and the levels of two major elements required for plant                
growth: phosphorus, and potassium. Where lime is needed, now is a               
good time to apply it.                                                          
                                                                                
* In folklore, woolybear caterpillars are used to forecast the                  
severity of the winter - the more black on the woolybear, the                   
colder the winter will be. Conduct your own research to see if it               
works. Though these insects feed on a variety of garden                         
vegetables they are not present in large numbers and are not                    
pests of any particular plant.                                                  
                                                                                
* `Tis the season for apples. Visit your farmer's market or a                   
"pick-your-own" orchard for unusual and local varieties. For a                  
listing of PYO farms write:  Va. Dept. of Agriculture and                       
Consumer Services, Division of Markets, P.O.Box 1163, Richmond,                 
Virginia  23209.                                                                
                                                                                
* Pebbles or crushed rock make an attractive mulch. With a                      
combination of rocks and a barrier layer (such as 3-4 sheets of                 
newpaper or one of the new weed barrier fabrics) underneath, weed               
control is assured for up to 2 years. Plastic is effective in                   
weed control under rocks; however, it reduces the movement of                   
oxygen into the soil and can reduce water availablity. If plastic               
is used check periodically to see that the soil beneath remains                 
moist; cut holes in it if the water doesn't seem to be getting                  
through.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Pine needles are like good building insulation, full of air                   
spaces. They insulate the soil and make an ideal winter mulch for               
perennial flowers, small fruit plants, especially strawberries,                 
and acid-loving shrubs and trees. Pine needles prevent alternate                
freezing and thawing which may heave shallow-rooted plants out of               
the ground, a problem especially serious on heavy soils.                        
                                                                                
* Bring out the bird feeders and stock them with treats for the                 
birds. Remember to provide fresh water for your feathered                       
friends.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Treat magnolia and beech leaves for dried flower arrangements                 
in a mixture of 1/3 glycerine, 2/3 warm water. Crush stems and                  
submerge 3 weeks to produce a rich, glossy brown foliage.                       
                                                                                
* To protect young trees against deer damage, there are a number                
of deterrents you can try. Remember, deer will become accustomed                
to any object, so alternating items will help. Hang bars of soap,               
mesh bags filled with human hair, bags of dried blood or strips                 
of white plastic trash or freezer bags on trees that are likely                 
to be attacked. Chemical deer repellents can also be applied,                   
such as creosote on felt strips. Be sure to reapply any chemicals               
after 2 to 3 weeks of normal weathering.                                        
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Press Releases October 1987                                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Extension                   
Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist in Home Horti-                 
culture, working with Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab. The               
Virginia Gardener Press Releases have been developed for agent                  
use in preparing radio and newspaper features and other                         
educational programs.                                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
Selecting Shade Trees                               83 lines                    
Seed Stratification                                 53 lines                    
Fall Clean up Can Be Fun                            47 lines                    
Dianthus                                            48 lines                    
Avoiding Winter Injury in Trees and Shrubs          86 lines                    
Pine Needle Scale                                   30 lines                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Selecting Shade Trees                                                          
                                                                                
People are sometimes hesitant to invest in a tree, rationalizing                
that it may be several years before the tree has any aesthetic or               
environmental impact on their home. However, it is precisely                    
because of this time lag that trees should be one of the first                  
elements added to the landscape. As the tree matures, the                       
investment is regained not only in pleasure, but in enhanced                    
value to your home and in savings on heating and cooling bills.                 
                                                                                
Once the purposes and location for trees have been established,                 
select trees that will best fit your needs. To do this, consider                
the following factors:                                                          
                                                                                
Hardiness - the ability to survive extremes of winter and summer                
temperatures. Native species are typically hardy selections.                    
                                                                                
Mature height and spread - a particularly important aspect of the               
tree is to provide shade. Consider the space available and make                 
sure trees are not planted so close to the house or other trees                 
as to require removal of branches as they develop. Avoid planting               
trees near overhead wires.                                                      
                                                                                
Growth rate - particularly important in determining how soon a                  
tree will have desired characteristics.                                         
                                                                                
Type of root system - deeper rooting trees can better tolerate                  
drought. Shallow rooted trees give more problems in sewage lines                
and drainage fields.                                                            
                                                                                
Maintenance requirements - consider moisture and fertility                      
requirements, cleanliness, desirable fruits, nuts or seed pods.                 
Avoid weak wood that breaks easily creating pruning problems.                   
                                                                                
Ornamental effect - such as branching habit, texture and color of               
bark, flowers, fruit and foliage.                                               
                                                                                
Insect and disease susceptibility - a particularly important                    
aspect as the gypsy moth becomes more prevalent in Virginia.                    
                                                                                
There are many excellant trees that thrive in Virginia. The                     
following list contains a number of trees that deserve more                     
attention and should be considered for planting.                                
                                                                                
Allegheny serviceberry (Amelanchier laevis). A small deciduous                  
tree with an ultimate height of 40 feet,desirable features                      
include prominent gray winter bark, delicate white flowers in                   
early spring, red fruit in July, and yellow to red autumn                       
foliage.                                                                        
                                                                                
Littleleaf linden (Tilia cordata). Several new and improved                     
selections of linden are becoming increasingly available in the                 
trade. The cultivar Greenspire has an oval shape with small,                    
dense, dark leaves and can reach an ultimate mature height of 100               
feet. All perform well under difficult city conditions.                         
                                                                                
Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora japonica). Valued for its large                   
white to yellow clusters of pea-like flowers in late July to                    
early August, it is tolerant of city conditions and reaches a                   
maximum height of 80 feet.                                                      
                                                                                
River birch (Betula nigra). A large tree, often approaching 100                 
feet, it is typically found along stream beds or low lands, where               
roots can easily penetrate to water. Noted for its excellent                    
cinnamon-colored, exfoliating bark and resistance to borers.                    
                                                                                
A few commonly used trees have significant problems that should                 
limit their landscape use. These include:                                       
                                                                                
Box elder (Acer negundo) is weak-wooded and subject to numerous                 
insect problems.                                                                
                                                                                
Silver maple (Acer saccharinum) is also weak-wooded with                        
generally a poor branch development that results in severe                      
breakage during wind or ice storms. It has a shallow root system.               
                                                                                
Lombardy poplar (Populus nigra 'Italica') is very susceptible to                
wind and ice damage due to structurally weak wood. In addition,                 
it has numerous insect and disease problems.                                    
                                                                                
Siberian elm (Ulmus pumila) is a weak wooded tree easily broken                 
and damaged during wind and ice storms. It is also subject to                   
severe defoliation by the elm leaf beetle and bark borer. Don,t                 
confuse this species with the more attractive Chinese elm (U.                   
parvifolia).                                                                    
Seed Stratification                                                            
                                                                                
Seeds of some fall-ripening trees and shrubs of the temperate                   
zone will not germinate unless chilled underground as they over-                
winter. This so called after-ripening may be accomplished                       
artificially by a practice called stratification.                               
                                                                                
Stratification can be described as the imitation of nature                      
intended to ensure the sprouting of seeds. When seeds drop on the               
ground in early fall, they are usually covered by a natural mulch               
of forest debris such as leaves. This mulch protects the seeds by               
providing a moist, dark haven where they can remain until time to               
sprout while winter temperatures fulfill the cold requirements of               
the seed. Stratification mimics this natural process using moist                
sand or a peat moss medium in which the seeds are mixed and                     
chilled for the proper period of time.                                          
                                                                                
The following stratification procedure is usually successful. Put               
sand or vermiculite in a clay pot to about 1 inch from the top.                 
Place the seeds on top of the medium and cover with 1/2 inch of                 
sand or vermiculite. Wet the medium thoroughly and allow excess                 
water to drain through the hole in the pot. Place the pot                       
containing the moist medium and seeds in a plastic bag and tie                  
the bag using a twist-tie or rubber band. Place the bag in a                    
refrigerator. Temperatures in the range of 35-45 F (2-7 C) are                  
effective. Most refrigerators operate in this range. Periodically               
check to see if the medium is moist but not wet. Additional water               
will probably not be necessary.                                                 
                                                                                
After 10-12 weeks, remove the pot from the bag and set it in a                  
warm place in the house. Water often enough to keep the medium                  
moist. Soon the seedlings should emerge. When the young plants                  
are about 3 inches tall, transplant them into pots to grow until                
time for setting outside.                                                       
                                                                                
Another approach is to use sphagnum moss or peat moss. Wet                      
thoroughly, then squeeze out excess water with hands. Mix seed                  
with the sphagnum or peat and place in a plastic bag. Use a                     
twist-tie or rubber band to secure the top and put the bag in a                 
refrigerator and check periodically. If there is condensation on                
the inside of the bag, the process will probably be successful.                 
After 10-12 weeks remove the bag from the refrigerator. Plant the               
seeds in pots to germinate and grow. Handle seeds carefully.                    
Often the small roots and shoots are emerging by the end of the                 
stratification period. Care must be taken not to break these off.               
                                                                                
Seeds of most fruit and nut trees can be successfully germinated                
by these procedures. Seeds of peaches should be removed from the                
hard pit. Care must be taken when cracking the pits. Any injury                 
to the seed itself can be an entry path for disease organisms.                  
Other woody plants which require seed stratification include:                   
maples, firs, birch, chestnut, dogwood, holly, juniper, hickory,                
pine, cherry, oak, spruce, yew, and viburnum.                                   
                                                                                
Fall Clean Up Can Be Fun                                                        
                                                                                
Clean-up and planting around the garden can provide enjoyable                   
exercise on sunny fall days. Be sure to keep leaves raked up from               
the lawn. If they are allowed to accumulate and become matted                   
down by rain, they may smother the grass. Rake them up regularly                
and store them in a pile for use as mulch in the garden next                    
summer.                                                                         
                                                                                
Cut down the plants in the vegetable and flower garden and turn                 
them under to decompose. This will enrich the soil with organic                 
matter while eliminating over wintering sites for insects and                   
disease. If your garden is on a slope, leave the chopped trash to               
protect the soil and prevent winter erosion. Use hand pruners,                  
hedge shears or a sharp sickle to cut the plants into pieces                    
about six inches long.                                                          
                                                                                
Low growing plants like beans and dwarf flowers can be cut up by                
running along the row with a rotary lawn mower. For most home                   
gardeners the incorporation of garden debris is a much more                     
practical way of maintaining soil organic matter than seeding a                 
fall cover crop of rye.                                                         
                                                                                
Coarse materials such as corn stalks, or evergreen branches may                 
be used as mulch on chrysanthemums. In the colder parts of the                  
state a better procedure than using mulch on chrysanthemums is to               
cut the tops back to about three inches long, dig the plants, and               
place them in pots or flats in a cold frame until growth starts                 
in the spring. Cuttings or divisions can be taken from these                    
plants which will make vigorous growth next summer. Such plants                 
usually will produce better flowers than the older plants.                      
                                                                                
Try sowing some hardy annual flowers to secure an early start in                
the garden next year. The following seeds will tolerate the cold                
of winter and be ready to grow rapidly when warm weather arrives                
next spring: calliopsis, cornflower, larkspur, Johnny-jump-up,                  
and annual poppies.  When planting hardy annual flowers in the                  
fall, make a shallow, wide furrow. Sow seeds thinly in a band                   
about three or four inches wide and cover lightly with soil.                    
Space the seed wide enough apart to allow some of the young                     
plants to be easily transplanted into more desirable locations in               
flower beds and borders.                                                        
                                                                                
Mulch fall-sown annuals with coarse material to reduce erosion                  
and damage by rapid and extreme changes in temperature. Mark the                
rows carefully so you will know where to look for young seedlings               
next spring. Remove the mulch after cold weather is past but                    
before the plants start to grow.                                                
Dianthus                                                                       
                                                                                
The Dianthus family is often recognized by its most common                      
member, the carnation, but this group includes smaller flowering                
plants which can provide color to the home grounds. Dianthus,                   
commonly called pinks, includes many fine annual, biennial and                  
perennial flowers. The fragrant blooms add beauty to the                        
landscape and are ideal for small and medium arrangements.                      
                                                                                
Annual dianthus varieties will bloom freely and continuously from               
June until frost. Clusters of small double flowers about one inch               
in diameter, on stiff, erect stems are produced. The annual China               
Pink (D. chinensis) is a popular species which can be used in                   
containers, beds or as an edging plant. Planted in masses this                  
species can provide a dramatic effect throughout summer in many                 
landscape situations. It performs best with afternoon shade in                  
the hottest part of the state.                                                  
                                                                                
The biennial Sweet William (D. barbatus) has been in cultivation                
for about three centuries. On well drained soils it may endure as               
a perennial. The single forms are more hardy and easier to grow                 
than the double types. Sweet William produces clusters of small                 
flowers in May and June. The plants are about eighteen inches                   
tall. The blooms have numerous combinations of red, pink and                    
white, with novel ring and spot markings. The plants are about                  
eigthteen inches tall and tolerate light shade.                                 
                                                                                
The perennial pinks are old favorites which bloom for many years                
if planted in a sunny location and a well drained soil. The color               
range includes white as well as shades of pink and red edged in                 
white. The Cheddar Pink (D. gratianopolitanus) produces small                   
solitary flowers on plants that grow to eight inches tall. The                  
cultivar `Tiny Rubies' has a dense flat mat of leaves topped by                 
double pink flowers on stems 2-3 inches tall. It blooms in late                 
spring as a very effective addition to rock gardens or along path               
ways. Grass Pink (D. plumarius) is another good perennial for                   
sunny locations with well drained soil and is reliably hardy                    
throughout Virginia. The plants self sow but are not invasive.                  
The seedlings will not be true to the parents but they tend to be               
quite lovely. The plants can also be propagated by shoot cuttings               
or division of the clumps in spring or fall.                                    
                                                                                
Select a well drained sandy loam soil for annual or perennial                   
pinks. Add enough lime to bring the soil to nearly neutral at pH                
7.0. Use an organic mulch of wood chips or pine needles to help                 
conserve soil moisture and control weeds during the summer. Apply               
a light coarse mulch after the ground freezes in the fall to                    
protect the plants during the winter.                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Maintaining Winter Hardiness in Trees and Shrubs                               
                                                                                
Gardeners have long known that certain species of trees, shrubs,                
roses or perennials will survive the winter while others die, or                
become so badly damaged that they need to be replaced in the                    
spring. Usually this is due to differences in the plants' cold                  
hardiness.                                                                      
                                                                                
Hardiness refers to a plant's ability to survive the extreme                    
environmental conditions in which it is growing. This includes                  
tolerance to severe winter weather with little or no injury. A                  
plant's natural cold hardiness is explained most simply as the                  
result of the plant's ability to bind water in its cells in a way               
that it does not freeze at the usual temperatures.  However,                    
hardiness can be influenced by a number of factors. These factors               
include cultural considerations such as the lowest winter                       
temperature in the area, the amount of water the plant receives                 
during the growing season and winter, type of soil and its                      
drainage capacity, protection from wind, and the amount of yearly               
sunlight. By selecting plants that are naturally hardy, winter                  
damage problems can be avoided. However, cultural practices play                
a significant role in a plant's ability to withstand cold.                      
                                                                                
The way plants are treated during the summer is particularly                    
important in increasing hardiness. A plant's growth rate must be                
reduced after mid-August so that preparations can begin for                     
winter. The accumulation of food reserves in the form of                        
carbohydrates will increase a plant's hardiness. During the                     
spring and early summer, the carbohydrates which are manufactured               
by photosynthesis are used for growth as rapidly as they are                    
produced. As late summer approaches, active growth should cease                 
to allow food reserves or carbohydrates to accumulate. If the                   
plant is stimulated into further growth instead of storing food,                
it can go into the dormancy period in a weakened state allowing                 
greater chance of winter injury. This natural process can be                    
promoted by withholding fertilizer and providing only moderate                  
amounts of water.                                                               
                                                                                
Fertilizers should be applied either in the spring or in the fall               
after the plants are dormant. Roots remain active as long as the                
soil temperature is above 40 degrees F. and nutrient up-take                    
continues. Fall fertilization promotes green, vigorous growth                   
without increasing the probability of winter injury. Disease and                
insect pests must also be controlled if shrubs are to have good                 
foliage and develop maximum hardiness. Severe foliage damage will               
reduce carbohydrate formation and prevent plants from maturing                  
properly. Keeping your plants healthy will not only make them                   
attractive but also more resistant to damage by cold.                           
                                                                                
Shrubs can be stimulated into renewed vigorous growth by rainy                  
weather in the fall if they have been damaged by pests or drought               
in the summer. Once the source of stress to a plant such as                     
drought has been lessened or eliminated, the plant attempts to                  
compensate for the adverse conditions by putting on a quick flush               
of growth late in the season. In some cases, a late flush of                    
flowers may develop. This late season growth uses carbohydrate                  
reserves and thus weakens the plant.  In addition, this soft                    
growth may be injured if cold weather occurs early in the winter                
before it has hardened.                                                         
                                                                                
Late summer pruning can encourage growth that will not have                     
sufficient time to harden and will be susceptible to winter                     
damage. Heavy pruning of shrubs and fruit trees in the fall and                 
early winter may result in winter damage in the colder parts of                 
the state, especially in severe winters. Pruning removes food                   
reserves and shocks the plant, making it more susceptible to                    
winter injury, especially if a rapid and severe drop in                         
temperature occurs.                                                             
                                                                                
Another important consideration is keeping water loss from plant                
tissues to a minimum during the winter. Damage due to drying out                
is called windburn or desiccation and may be severe enough to                   
cause death, especially in evergreen shrubs. The best way to                    
prevent injury by desiccation is to be sure the soil around the                 
shrub is moist before the ground freezes. This is especially                    
important for plants which have not yet become established after                
being transplanted.                                                             
                                                                                
Start watering shrubs near the average date of the first fall                   
frost. If rainfall is insufficient to supply needed moisture                    
apply water at weekly intervals until the ground freezes. Even in               
moist soils, evergreen shrubs located on windy sites may dry out                
quite severely. This damage can be reduced or prevented by                      
wrapping the plants in burlap. However, this is quite                           
unattractive. It may be preferable to move easily damaged plants                
to more protected locations.                                                    
Pine Needle Scale                                                              
                                                                                
Pine needle scale can be a serious pest of Christmas trees as                   
well as ornamental trees and shrubs including mugho, Scotch and                 
Austrian pines as well as the Norway Spruce. Though present, it                 
is seldom damaging to white pine.                                               
                                                                                
Damage is not apparent until large populations have been present                
for more than one or two seasons. Affected trees are stunted,                   
grow slowly, and have short needles and shoots. Occasionally the                
feeding of scales produces chlorotic, yellowish flecks on the                   
needles, but normally this is not apparent. Heavily infested                    
plants are seriously weakened and may be in a state of decline.                 
                                                                                
The coverings on pine needle scale insects are about 1/8 inch                   
long, elongate, narrow in front and broad in back. They are most                
often identified by their characteristic white color. Eggs under                
the scale covers are purplish in color. Crawlers and settled                    
nymphs are reddish in color beneath the white scale covers.                     
                                                                                
The hatching period is relatively short, lasting from seven to                  
ten days in mid May and again in mid to late July. The first                    
generation crawlers settle on old needles, since new growth is                  
not fully developed until later. Second generation crawlers                     
settle primarily on the current year's growth. Females produce 5-               
30 reddish purple eggs. Although the number of eggs laid is                     
relatively small, two generations a year permit rapid buildup of                
infestations. In areas where infestations are large, lady beetles               
are an effective predator. For chemical controls contact your                   
local extension agent for the most recent spray recommendations.                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
October 1987  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                
                                                                                
This material was prepared by J. T. Foley, Horticulture Extension               
Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Specialist Home                  
Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has been                       
developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                        
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
Moisture Tolerant Trees, Shrubs and Perennials      33 lines                    
Sludge                                              18 lines                    
Daylilies                                           17 lines                    
Tree Tomatoes                                       21 lines                    
American Chestnut Tree Research                     21 lines                    
Storage of Onions                                   13 lines                    
Geranium Cuttings                                   14 lines                    
Moving Established Rose Bushes                      10 lines                    
Home Storage of Apples                              15 lines                    
Attracting Butterflies                              15 lines                    
Root Cuttings                                       18 lines                    
Greenhouse Containers                               23 lines                    
Pruning Fireblight                                  11 lines                    
Late Summer Flowering Shrubs                        17 lines                    
                                                                                
________________________                                                        
                                                                                
What, other than willows and swamp azaleas, will survive in an                  
area where the soil stays quite moist?                                          
                                                                                
Many landscapes are troubled by incurable wet spots. No amount of               
tilling, breaking up hardpan, or adding organic matter can reduce               
sogginess due to a high water table, shallow bedrock, or a                      
subsurface spring.                                                              
                                                                                
The following trees are able to tolerate wet conditions: sour gum               
(Nyssa sylvatica), red maple (Acer rubrum), sweetbay magnolia                   
(Magnolia virginiana), sweet gum (Liquidambar styraciflua), swamp               
white oak (Quercus bicolor), river birch (Betula nigra), bald                   
cypress (Taxodium distichum), tamarack (Larix laricina), alder                  
(Alnus spp.), and London plane (Platanus x acerifolia).                         
                                                                                
Shrubs for moist to wet conditions:  Hollies: winterberry (Ilex                 
verticillata), inkberry (I.glabra), yaupon (I. vomitoria), dahoon               
(I. cassine); Viburnums: arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum), witherod                
(V. cassinoides), cranberry (V. trilobum); Dogwoods: silky                      
(Cornus amomum), bloodtwig (C. sanguinea), red osier (C.                        
stolonifera); Azaleas: sweet (Rhododendron arborescens), flame                  
(R. nudiflorum), rhodora (R. canadense), pinkshell (R. vaseyi);                 
Others: Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), buttonbush (Cephalanthus                   
occidentalis), summersweet (Clethra alnifolia), bayberry (Myrica                
pennsylvanica), leatherwood (Dirca palustris), mountain holly                   
(Nemopanthus mucronatus), American elder (Sanbucus canadensis),                 
blueberry (Vaccinium), red chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia), and                 
mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia).                                             
                                                                                
Perennials which tolerate moist soil:                                           
Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata, marsh marigold (Caltha                     
palustris, Joe-pye-weed (Eupatorium purpureum), swamp rose mallow               
(Hibicus Moscheutos), yellowflag (Iris pseudacorus), cardinal                   
flower (Lobelia cardinalis), loosestrife (Lysimachia                            
clethroides), bee-balm (Monarda didyma).                                        
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
In some garden centers I see "sludge" being sold along with the                 
fertilizers. What is it and what do you use it for?                             
                                                                                
Sewer sludge is the recycled product of municipal sewage                        
treatment plants, which may be added to soil. Two forms are                     
commonly available, activated and composted. Activated sludge has               
higher concentrations of nutrients (roughly 6-3-0) than composted               
sludge, and is usually sold in a dry, granular form. It may be                  
used as a general purpose, longlasting, nonburning fertilizer.                  
Composted sludge has a lower nutrient content (roughly 1-2-0) and               
is used primarily as a soil amendment.                                          
                                                                                
There is some question about the long term effect of using sewage               
sludge products in the garden, particularly around edible crops.                
Heavy metals, such as cadmium are sometimes present in the                      
sludge, and may build up in the soil and consequently in                        
crops. Possible negative effects vary not only with the origin of               
the sludge but also with the characteristics of the soil to which               
it is added.                                                                    
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
My flower border looks drab this month. What could I grow to                    
brighten things up?                                                             
                                                                                
Some of the new and beautiful hybrid daylily plants might be a                  
fine addition. You can select varieties of daylilies that will                  
extend the flowering season from June to late fall. It will take                
more than one variety to cover this period, but a few carefully                 
selected varieties will add color through the summer. Colors from               
pale yellow through gold, melon, peach, pink, rose,lavender,                    
purple, red, wine and a few that are almost white are available.                
                                                                                
Unlike some perennials, the daylily (Hemerocallis) has attractive               
foliage. Additionally it is practically pest free and has height                
range in height from 12 inches to well over 3 feet. The best time               
for planting is spring or fall. It is a good idea to set the                    
plants early enough in the fall so that their roots will become                 
established and will not heave out of the ground over winter.                   
Daylilies are sunloving flowers that will tolerate partial shade.               
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
What are tree tomatoes?                                                         
                                                                                
The tree tomato (Cyphomandra betacea) is a member of the                        
nightshade family as is the regular tomato; however, the tree                   
tomato belongs to a different species. Like the tomato, it is                   
native to Peru and grown in home and market gardens in the semi-                
tropical areas of Peru, Brazil, New Zealand and other countries.                
                                                                                
The tree tomato is woody, upright, and grows 8 to 10 feet tall.                 
The plant is propogated from seeds or woody cuttings. It does not               
begin to bear fruit until 2 years after seeding and may continue                
to bear for 5 or 6 years. Tree tomatoes cannot survive Virginia                 
winters outdoors and must be brought inside.                                    
                                                                                
Fruits of the most common tree tomato are oval, about 2 inches                  
long and change from greenish purple to orange or bright red when               
fully ripe. The fruit are not as acidic as regular tomatoes and                 
have a good flavor.                                                             
                                                                                
Although the fruit can be eaten fresh it is most often used in                  
stews or preserves after removal of the tough skin and hard                     
seeds.                                                                          
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
We have a small group of American chestnut trees. This year one                 
of them produced burrs for the first time. I thought the American               
chestnut was nonexistent. Do we have a rarity?                                  
                                                                                
There are many stands of young American chestnut trees scattered                
across the country. Shoots from old, blight-killed chestnut trees               
grow and survive for up to twenty years only to be infected and                 
killed by the blight-causing fungus Endothia parasitica. However,               
help seems to be on the way for future survival of this beautiful               
tree.                                                                           
                                                                                
Extensive research has been carried out at Virginia Tech on                     
reviving the American chestnut. The introduction of an avirulent                
strain of Endothia parasitica offers some hope for the return of                
this former king of the forest. The avirulent strain does not                   
cause the extent of canker damage that the original killing                     
strain of the blight caused. In fact, the weaker strain prohibits               
the infection of the stronger blight organisms once the tree is                 
infected.                                                                       
______________                                                                  
                                                                                
Are the fruit of Japanese flowering quince edible? If so, how are               
they used?                                                                      
                                                                                
Yes they are. Many people make quince jelly or preserves from                   
them.                                                                           
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
How should I store onions from my garden for winter?                            
                                                                                
Onions must be mature and thoroughly dry to keep well in storage.               
Damaged onions and onions that have thick necks will not keep.                  
Store onions in a dry, well-ventilated place, such as an attic or               
unheated room. Keep them in ventilated containers, such as                      
slatted crates or open-mesh bags. Fill bags half full and hang                  
them on overhead hooks. Crates should be half filled and then                   
stacked on crossbars. Don't store onions in cellars.                            
                                                                                
Panty hose work well for storage. Drop in an onion, tie a knot,                 
and continue filling then suspend from rafters. Make sure your                  
variety keeps well. Most onions grown in Virginia do not store                  
for long.                                                                       
___________                                                                     
                                                                                
How should I overwinter the geraniums I have planted around my                  
house?                                                                          
                                                                                
One way is to take cuttings by snapping off stems 2-3 inches long               
and stripping each stem of all but three or four of the top                     
leaves. Leave the cuttings in a shady location for a day with the               
cut end exposed to air to help form a callous and reduce rot. Set               
each stem in a pot of moist, sterlized soil packed lightly. Keep                
the soil moist but not soggy. In about three weeks the roots                    
should be a half inch long. After roots develop, place the pot in               
a bright, sunny window; let soil dry between waterings and                      
fertilize after new growth begins. Once plants are five inches                  
tall or so, pinch back stem tips to encourage branching. Under                  
proper growing conditions flowering begins about 4 to 5 months                  
later.                                                                          
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
What is the best way to transplant established rose bushes?                     
                                                                                
Older rose bushes are slow to develop new roots and may take                    
years to become reestablished. Therefore, it is best to consider                
buying new plants. If the older plants have a sentimental value                 
and must be moved, the best moving time is the fall. Move as much               
of the soil and root ball as you can handle. Take pains to cut                  
only small roots if any must be severed. Once placed in its new                 
home the top can be pruned as if it were a newly purchased rose.                
Water the plant well and mulch the crown to prepare for winter.                 
__________                                                                      
                                                                                
We have a bumper crop of apples. Please, tell us how apples are                 
stored.                                                                         
                                                                                
The storage life of produce depends on varietiesgrown, storage                  
temperature, humidity and produce condition. For the best holding               
of any fruit or vegetable, harvest and handle each crop                         
carefully. Avoid bruising and skin breaks from dropping or rough                
handling, Store clean produce free of disease or insect injury.                 
Harvest at the best maturity for long keeping.                                  
                                                                                
Virginia grown apples keep longest when they are held near 32                   
degrees F in home storage. Such a low temperature is seldom                     
available from normal air cooling in the fall in the state.                     
Storage life of apples is considerably reduced at higher                        
temperatures and fruit quickly becomes over-ripe at 70 degrees F.               
To prevent shriveling, apples need a relative humidilty of 85 to                
90 %.                                                                           
_____________                                                                   
                                                                                
Can you suggest some plants the I might use to attract                          
butterflies to my garden next year?                                             
                                                                                
Plants with flowers that attract butterflies include butterfly                  
weed (Asclepias tuberosa), butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii),                   
abelia, sedums, annual and perennial phloxes, thrift (Phlox                     
subulata), lantana, stock, marigolds, chives, purple coneflower,                
coreopsis, dianthus and pinks, verbena, goldenrod, joe-pye weed                 
and native asters.                                                              
                                                                                
The following plants provide food for the caterpillars of one or                
more species of butterflies: wild indigo or baptisia, clovers,                  
Queen Anne's Lace, parsley, tulip poplar, milkweeds, sweet bay,                 
sassafras, pawpaw, alfalfa, spicebush (Lindera benzoin), native                 
asters, thistles, passionflower, violets, elms, willows, wild                   
cherry, mistletoe, plaintain, and burdock.                                      
                                                                                
________________                                                                
                                                                                
Please give me information on making root cuttings.                             
                                                                                
Root cuttings are usually taken from 2-3 year old plants during                 
their dormant season when they have a large carbohydrate supply.                
Root cuttings of some species produce new shoots, which then form               
their own root systems, while root cuttings of other plants                     
develop root systems before producing new shoots.                               
                                                                                
Plants with large roots:  Make a straight top cut. Make a slanted               
cut 2-6" below the first cut. Store about 3 weeks in moist                      
sawdust, peat moss or sand at 40 degrees F. Remove from storage.                
Insert the cutting vertically with the top approximately level                  
with the surface  of the rooting medium. This method is often                   
done outdoors.                                                                  
                                                                                
Plants with small roots:  Take 1-2" sections of roots. Insert the               
cuttings horizontally about 1/2" below the surface of the medium.               
This method is usually done indoors or in a hotbed.                             
____________                                                                    
                                                                                
I have a new home greenhouse and plan to start many of my own                   
seedlings this next year. What do you recommend for containers?                 
                                                                                
Wooden or plastic flats and trays can be purchased or you can                   
make your own from scrap lumber. A convenient size to handle                    
would be about 18 inches long and 12 inches wide with a depth of                
about 2 inches. Leave cracks of about 1/8 of an inch between the                
boards in the bottom or drill a series of holes to ensure                       
drainage.                                                                       
                                                                                
Flower pots of either clay or plastic can be used. You can also                 
make your own containers for starting seeds by recycling such                   
things as cottage cheese containers, the bottoms of milk cartons                
or bleach containers and pie pans, as long as good drainage is                  
provided.                                                                       
                                                                                
Numerous types of pots and strips made of compressed peat are                   
also on the market which can be utilized to start seeds. Plant                  
bands and plastic cell packs are also available. Each cell or                   
minipot holds a single plant which reduces the risk of root                     
injury when transplanting. Peat pellets, peat or fiber based                    
blocks and expanded plastic foam cubes can also be used for                     
seeding. Here the growing medium itself forms the container unit.               
                                                                                
______________                                                                  
                                                                                
I pruned a pear tree with fireblight and it seemed to get worse.                
Why?                                                                            
                                                                                
When removing wood infected with a disease, such as a fungal                    
canker or fire blight, it is important that the cut be made in                  
healthy wood beyond the point of infection. Any dying branch or                 
stub can be the entry point or build-up chamber for fungi that                  
could spread to other parts of the tree. In addition , it is very               
important the pruners be dipped in a solution of one part bleach                
to nine parts of water to kill any disease organisms that might                 
have been picked up while pruning. Infected pruners are a major                 
way that disease can be spread throughout the tree.                             
_____________                                                                   
                                                                                
After spring bulbs and flowering shrubs have faded, my landscape                
suddenly has no color. What shrubs can I plant to add summer                    
color from July until fall foliage begins to color?                             
                                                                                
Many gardeners are familiar with spring flowering shrubs and                    
trees such as azaleas, rhododendrons, crabapples, lilacs,                       
viburnums, cercis (Redbud), and weigelias, to name a few.                       
However, shrubs are available which provide mid to late summer                  
bloom that may not be as familiar.                                              
                                                                                
Shrubs with mid to late summer bloom include:  butterfly bush                   
(Buddleia Davidii), blue spirea (Caryopteris incana), summer-                   
sweet (Clethra alnifolia), rose-of-Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus),                  
hills-of-snow (Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle'), sourwood tree                
(Oxydendrum arboreum), shrubby cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa),               
Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora japonica), crape myrtle                           
(Lagerstroemia indica - for use in the warmer parts of the                      
state).                                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
September Monthly Notes                                                         
                                                                                
* An easy indoor plant watering system can be designed by                       
inserting an asbestos-glass water wick into one of the drainage                 
holes of a pot. Old nylon stockings can be braided and used                     
instead. Set the pot on a water reservoir made from heavy plastic               
such as large-sized whipped margarine containers. Prepare the                   
lid by making two holes; one for the wick to reach the water,                   
and a larger one for supplying fresh water. This is a highly                    
efficient system for carefree watering. However, the plants                     
should be periodically watered from the top to flush accumulated                
minerals from the soil.                                                         
                                                                                
* Don't overlook excellent sources of organic material available                
during the fall. Leaves are abundant and neighbors will usually                 
be glad to give their leaves to you. Plow some into the garden                  
now and store some for next year's mulch.                                       
                                                                                
* You can help leaves break down more easily by running a lawn                  
mover back and forth over the pile. Put the shredded leaves                     
directly onto the garden or compost pile.                                       
                                                                                
* Cover crops can be planted as early as August 1, but should                   
not be planted any later than November 1. They should make some                 
growth before hard frost kills them. Where you have fall crops                  
growing, you can sow cover crop seed between rows a month or                    
less before expected harvest. This way, the cover crop gets                     
a good start but will not interfere with vegetable plant growth.                
                                                                                
* If you plan to move some of your chives indoors this winter,                  
this is the time to pot them up. When dividing your outdoor                     
plants, select young, mature plants and pot 8 to 10 per 6"                      
pot. They will do best on a sunny windowsill.                                   
                                                                                
* Sowing seeds of hardy annuals such as sweet alyssum, pinks                    
and sweet peas will give the seedlings time to get established                  
and develop good root systems before the coldest part of winter.                
This gives them a head start on growth and flowering next spring.               
                                                                                
* Take cuttings of such annual bedding plants as begonias,                      
coleus, geraniums and impatiens. Rooted indoors, these overwinter               
in a bright window and give plants for next year's garden.                      
                                                                                
* If you enjoy growing wild flowers, now is the time to collect                 
seed for your garden from many of the summer flowering types.                   
                                                                                
* When using a cold frame to extend your harvest season, be                     
sure to close the top for frosty nights to protect the plants                   
from the cold. When the sun comes out the next morning and the                  
air warms, you can open the cold frame again.                                   
                                                                                
* Fall is a good time for planting. Researchers have concluded                  
that the last safe planting date is approximately 4 weeks before                
soil temperatures fall to 40 degrees which inhibits root develop-               
ment. For plants which are marginally hardy and hard-to-trans-                  
plant, this date should be early.                                               
                                                                                
* Wood ashes contain phosphorous, calcium and potassium and                     
can be placed on garden, flower beds, or spread on lawn but                     
don't overdo it. Avoid acid-loving plants as it raises the pH.                  
                                                                                
* A green manure or cover crop improves water infiltration,                     
reduces soil erosion, reduces nutrient leaching and promotes                    
the growth of microorganisms. Annual rye can be sown at the                     
rate of 15.2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. during September and October.                
A light fertilization with 1-2 lbs. of 5-10-10 will generally                   
increase plant growth.                                                          
                                                                                
* The tomato variety Long Keeper has received high acclaim by                   
home gardeners who have successfully kept fruit past the first                  
of the new year in parts of Virginia.                                           
                                                                                
* Before moving your houseplants back inside from their outdoor                 
summer, take time to wash your windows. Not only will it be                     
easier without plants in the way, it will make considerably                     
more light available and help your plants adjust to their new                   
lower light regime.                                                             
                                                                                
* Don't wait for frost warnings to move your plants indoors. Tem-               
peratures of 50 degrees or lower can damage many tropical                       
houseplants.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Dried beans and peas are among the easiest crops to store. They               
will keep for many months in a cool, dry location. Control                      
weevils before storage by placing in a freezer at 0 degrees F or                
lower for 4 days, or heat to 180 degrees F for at least 15                      
minutes. Following this treatment, place the dry beans or peas in               
a tight container and place in a cool, dry place.                               
                                                                                
* Winter type pumpkins and squash such as acorn, butternut and                  
spaghetti may keep for several months in a cool, medium-dry                     
basement, garage or tool shed. Allow the fruit to ripen fully                   
on the vine, and cure in the sun to form a hard rind. Harvest                   
before frost, and leave a piece of stem on each when they are                   
cut from the vine. If the floor is damp, place pumpkins and                     
squash on shelves to reduce the possibility of rot. The best                    
storage temperature is about 60 degrees F.                                      
                                                                                
* Sweet potatoes will keep for several months in a medium dry                   
basement. Handle sweet potatoes very carefully to avoid bruising                
or cutting. Cure for about 10 days at 80 degrees F or for 20                    
days at 70 degrees F to dry and toughen the skin. This can be                   
done near the furnace in your basement. Store under medium dry                  
conditions at 60 degrees F, or as close to this temperature                     
as possible. Sort your sweet potatoes carefully every few weeks                 
and remove any that may start to decay.                                         
                                                                                
* Hot peppers will keep best if stored after they are dry. Pull                 
the plants and hang them up, or pick the peppers and thread                     
on a string. Store in any cool, dry place.                                      
                                                                                
* Green tomatoes may be stored for 4 to 6 weeks and will gradual-               
ly ripen to a nice red color. The best storage conditions are                   
about 60 degrees F and a moderately moist atmosphere. Harvest the               
tomatoes in a firm, green condition before frost. Remove the                    
stems to prevent puncturing other fruits. Wash dirt off rather                  
than wiping, which may cause skin scratches which will be                       
susceptible to decay. If the basement is quite dry, the tomatoes                
may be placed in film bags, or film-lined boxes to increase the                 
humidity. Sort the fruit every week to remove those which ripen                 
or start to decay.                                                              
                                                                                
* Dig out the list of spring flowering bulbs you made last spring               
and start getting them into the ground so you can be among the                  
blissful rather than wistful as next winter snows begin to                      
melt. If you did not get a list started last spring, a few bulbs                
to consider for starters are Snowflake, Glory-of-the-Snow,                      
Snowdrops, and Winter Aconite.                                                  
                                                                                
* Divide lilies-of-the-valley.  Mix bone meal in the soil before                
replanting.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Plant new Madonna lilies as soon as they arrive.  Do not plant                
deeper than two inches from top of bulb to ground level.  Set                   
bulb in sand.                                                                   
                                                                                
* As the nights become cool, caladiums will begin to lose leaves.               
Dig up, dry, and store in a warm, dry place to prevent rot.                     
This space can be replanted with Christmas peppers or Jerusalem                 
cherry plants which have been grown from seed in pots sunk in the               
vegetable garden, or transplant mums that have been grown to                    
flower size in the vegetable garden.                                            
                                                                                
* Mums can be transplanted while in bloom which makes them useful               
for instant landscapes in early Autumn.  Dig plants carefully                   
after thorough watering, retaining as much of the root system as                
feasible.  Gently loosen a small amount of soil from the outer                  
soil depth.  Water thoroughly to set plants in.  As with any                    
transplanting, it is best to do this in early morning or late                   
evening when temperatures are cool. Monitor plants carefully for                
several days for wilting, and shade briefly during the hotter                   
periods of the day, if necessary.                                               
                                                                                
* For early blooms in May and June next year, certain annuals can               
be sown now, including larkspur, nigella, calendula, Shirley                    
poppies, annual scabious, and coreopsis.  Sown in the open, they                
should be well established by the time the cold weather comes.                  
                                                                                
* Plant tubers of both garden and tree peonies in September or                  
early October so they will have time to become established in the               
soil before winter.  Dig a hole 18 inches across and 18 inches                  
deep for each tuber. Space the holes so that the plants will be                 
at least 3 feet apart.  Pile loose soil at the side of the hole                 
and break up all lumps.                                                         
                                                                                
* If pesky seedlings of woody plants, such as elm or hackberry,                 
are found growing in your hedge, remove them as soon as possible.               
If left too long, they will take over and leaves gaps in the                    
hedge when they are finally removed.                                            
                                                                                
* Check grapevines for mummied berries - victims of black rot.                  
Pick them and dispose of (do not compost) before they can spread                
the disease.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Rake up leaves, twigs, and fruit from crabapple trees and                     
dispose of them in the trash to help control scab.                              
                                                                                
* Pot up chives, parsley and other herbs to extend the growing                  
season in the house.                                                            
                                                                                
* Harvesting guidelines: PEARS should be picked at the hard ripe                
stage, and allowed to finish ripening off the tree.  The base                   
color of yellow pears should change from green to yellow as                     
the fruit approaches maturity. APPLES should separate readily                   
from the trees when lifted gently upwards.                                      
                                                                                
* The gardening season can be extended well into the winter.                    
Lettuce, cress, radishes, endive, and spinach can all be grown in               
the well-known structure, the coldframe.  In cooler weather,                    
insulate the outer sides of the box with banked soil or sawdust.                
Cover the top with sacks stuffed with straw or other insulation                 
during cold nights.                                                             
                                                                                
* Fall is usually cool and moist and a good time to plant trees                 
and shrubs.  Research has shown that roots will continue to grow                
until the soil freezes, which is about Thanksgiving.  This is                   
true for both evergreens and deciduous plants. The best time for                
lawn construction is from mid-August to mid-September for                       
cool-season grasses.  Seeding at this time allows for a long                    
fall growing period, when temperatures and moisture conditions                  
are most favorable and weed competition is at a minimum.  By the                
time cold weather arrives, the grass is fairly well established                 
and ready to grow and thicken early the following spring.                       
                                                                                
* Perennial flowers which will bloom in September include:                      
Biglow sneezeweed (Helenium biglovi), hardy asters, hardy                       
chrysanthemums, showy stonecrop (Sedum spectabile), false                       
dragonhead (Physostagia virgianana), bigleaf sea lavender                       
(Limonium latifolium), and great azure sage (Salvia pitcheri).                  
                                                                                
* Spray cabbage, broccoli, and caulifower with BT (bacillus                     
thuringiensis) once a week through harvest to avoid cabbage                     
loopers.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Allow plants to finish the summer growth cycle in a normal                    
manner. Never encourage growth with heavy applications of                       
fertilizer or excessive pruning at this time.  Plants will                      
quickly delay their hardening process that has already begun in                 
anticipation of winter several months ahead.  New growth can be                 
injured by an early freeze.                                                     
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
PREPARING FOR FROST                                                             
                                                                                
It  may seem a little early to begin worrying about frost, but                  
well-laid plans now may avoid disaster and disappointment                       
later.                                                                          
                                                                                
When the nights begin to reach 55 degrees F, it's time to                       
acclimate your house plants to return indoors.  Move them to a                  
lower light area and bring them in at night.  Most tropical house               
plants can be injured by low night temperatures that are well                   
above freezing. Inspect plants closely for insects and complete                 
any pesticide spraying while the plants are still out-of-doors.                 
                                                                                
If a pot has been in contact with the soil, you may want to soak                
it in a bucket of water for several hours to drown any insects                  
that may have entered the drain hole. Clean the foliage and wash                
your windows to provide maximum light this winter before taking                 
the plants inside.  Remember, that with lower light and cooler                  
temperatures, plant growth will slow down so less water and                     
fertilizer will be required.                                                    
                                                                                
Begonias, coleus, geraniums and impatiens can be potted up and                  
moved indoors for added winter color.  If this is not desirable,                
cuttings can be taken and rooted in a glass of water to make a                  
fresh start of young plants.  Protecting your chrysanthemums,                   
marigolds, and other flowers from the first light frost may                     
prolong their flowering period through the warm Indian summer                   
that usually follows our early freezes.                                         
                                                                                
If there are tender plants, such as tomatoes, in your vegetable                 
garden, that still hold an abundance of immature fruit when                     
frost arrives, plan to cover them during the night.  Start                      
collecting baskets, burlap or canvas sacks, boxes, blankets or                  
buckets to protect them from the frost.  The warm days after the                
frost will mature some of the fruit as long as the plants have                  
this nightly frost protection.                                                  
                                                                                
Summer squash, melons, eggplant, cucumbers, peppers and okra are                
some crops that cannot withstand frost and should be picked                     
immediately prior to heavy frosts. Store the vegetables in a                    
refrigerator until needed for eating or processing.                             
                                                                                
Cool-season crops, such as cabbage, cauliflower, peas, broccoli                 
and Brussels sprouts can withstand some cold; in fact, their                    
favor is often enhanced after a frost.  They cannot stay in                     
the garden all winter, but do not need to be picked immediately                 
when frost comes.                                                               
                                                                                
Kale, spinach, evergreen bunching onions, lettuce, parsley,                     
parsnips, carrots, and salsify are crops that may survive all                   
winter in your garden.  Mulch overwintering vegetables with                     
8 inches of mulch to prevent heaving of the soil.  Most of these                
vegetables can be dug or picked as needed throughout the winter                 
or in early spring.                                                             
                                                                                
The average date of the first killing frost in your areas can be                
obtained from a local Extension agent.                                          
Tom Brunback, Virginia Tech agricultural meteorologist, explain-                
s, however, that although these average dates can be used to                    
determine when the first freeze is expected, weather systems and                
local effects largely determine the exact date.  The first freeze               
of autumn forms when the air is relatively cool the day before.                 
Be wary of cloudy daytime skies that prevent maximum temperatures               
from reaching 65 degrees F.  Freezes are especially likely when                 
these cool days are followed by a clear night with little or no                 
wind.                                                                           
                                                                                
The clear night skies allow heat from the soil surface and                      
plants to escape into space.  Eventually, if there are enough                   
hours of this night time heat loss, plant temperatures will fall                
below freezing, usually just before sunrise.  Since the ground                  
and plant surfaces cool the most, any wind helps mix warmer air                 
from above and thus reduces the risk of a freeze.  Likewise,                    
cloudy skies at night reduce heat loss and freeze risks.                        
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
PLANT HARDY BULBS FOR NEXT YEAR'S COLOR                                         
                                                                                
Hardy bulbs can be planted now to provide color from early                      
spring until the end of summer.  Most people think of fall as the               
time to plant daffodils and tulips.  Certainly these lovely bulbs               
with their spectacular displays should not be forgotten, but the                
wealth of other bulbs can't be ignored.                                         
                                                                                
Winter can be endured more easily if promises of spring are                     
brought by such extra early small bulbs as Glory of the Snow,                   
winter aconite and snowdrops.  With flowers from three to six                   
inches tall, these bulbs grow will in rock gardens or raised                    
beds.  They also naturalize well under leafy trees that allow                   
light early in the season but give shade in the summer.                         
                                                                                
Species tulips, such as the Kaufmannia and Fosterlana, bloom                    
next. Their unusual flower shapes and colors set them apart from                
the later blooming, larger tulips.  Because of their smaller                    
sizes, these tulips also lend themselves to rock gardens, raised                
beds or window boxes that give them special places to show their                
individuality.                                                                  
                                                                                
Hyacinths, daffodils and tulips follow, assuring everyone                       
that spring is indeed here to stay and summer is on the way.                    
                                                                                
Depending on the variety grown, alliums or "flowering onions"                   
may be the next to bloom.  Giant alliums produce flower balls up                
to nine inches across on stalks four to eight feet tall.  They                  
are certainly not an easy plant to use in the flower bed, but                   
their astounding flower can be the spark that ignites a child's                 
enthusiasm for plants.  Other species of small, red, yellow and                 
white flowering alliums (under a foot tall) can also be found in                
most bulb catalogs.                                                             
                                                                                
Another allium with lovely blossoms that often is relegated to                  
the herb garden is chives.  Chives can be a very effective part                 
of the flower border with their pinkish lavender, ball-shaped                   
flowers in early June. The added benefit of snipping leaves                     
throughout the summer flavors soups and salads.                                 
                                                                                
Lilies are a highly diverse group of summer flowering perennials                
that can provide the novice or the experienced gardener with a                  
highly rewarding, continuous show of color from June through                    
October.  Careful selection of varieties not only can provide                   
this prolonged profusion of color, but a diversity in shape and                 
color of blossom and size of plant. Yellows and oranges predom-                 
inate, but whites, pinks and reds are readily available.                        
Although some varieties reach over eight feet tall, the newer                   
hybrids that bloom at between two and three feet easily integrate               
themselves into most flower borders.                                            
                                                                                
Foxtail lilies, which are really an Eremus, make dramatic                       
accents in the early summer, producing tall spikes covered with                 
hundreds of starry bells.  Some species reach as tall as 10 feet,               
so unless you design a giant-sized flower border, be careful to                 
select from the shorter (3-4 feet) species.  Actually grown from                
tubers rather than true bulbs, foxtail lilies are more difficult                
to establish than most of the hardy bulbs but are well worth the                
effort.                                                                         
                                                                                
Another favorite for late summer bloom is the blackberry lily.                  
Actually a member of the iris family, this plant is started from                
division of rhizomes or fleshy underground stems.  In August and                
September graceful sprays of small red-spotted orange flowers                   
appear, producing a thick green capsule type fruit.  Later in the               
fall, the capsules split to reveal clusters of black seed,                      
resembling a blackberry, thus its name. These seed heads are                    
useful for dried flower arrangements.                                           
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
HARDY MUMS FOR FALL COLOR                                                       
                                                                                
Many flower gardeners find the essence of autumn in the diversi-                
ty of their hardy chrysanthemums.  This herbaceous perennial is                 
noteworthy for its wide range of colors, sizes and shapes of                    
flowers.                                                                        
                                                                                
Their usefulness in extending the flower gardening season to the                
first heavy frost can't be matched.  They can be used in borders                
for massing, as accent plants, or even to replant containers that               
were filled with summer annuals.  Their long-lasting cut flowers                
are a welcome bonus after the summer cutting garden has passed                  
its peak.                                                                       
                                                                                
As chrysanthemums bloom during the shorter days of late summer                  
and early fall, their natural flowering period coincides with the               
coloring of autumn foliage.  Their color range often resembles                  
the leaves of a hardwood forest with yellows, rusts, reds and                   
bronze predominating. Whites, pinks and lavenders also are                      
available.                                                                      
                                                                                
Decorative button, pompon, spoon, spider and daisy are only a                   
few of the flower types that are available.  Chrysanthemum size                 
differs among varieties but also can be manipulated by the                      
gardener.                                                                       
                                                                                
If you would like extra large blooms, disbud or remove all of                   
the flower buds on the stem except for the large terminal bud in                
the center of the cluster.  This will greatly reduce the total                  
number of flowers but the one that does open will be much more                  
showy.  This is the method that is used, in combination with                    
careful variety selection, to produce the large mums you see at                 
football games.                                                                 
                                                                                
Many garden centers have a wide array of mums available in full                 
bloom to dress up your autumn landscape.  These mums, grown in                  
gallon containers, can easily be planted anywhere in the garden                 
for instant show.  With care, it even is possible to transplant                 
mums in bloom from one location to another, more permanent spot.                
                                                                                
Dig the plants carefully after thorough watering, retaining as                  
much of the root system as feasible.  Gently loosen a small                     
amount of soil from the outer edge of the root ball and replant                 
in the new location at the same soil depth.  Water thoroughly to                
settle the plants and monitor them for several days.  If needed,                
shade the plants during the hottest part of the day.                            
                                                                                
Some gardeners try planting greenhouse grown mums received as                   
pot plants.  Unfortunately, most of these are not hardy and won't               
survive even the mildest winter.  True hardiness, even for the                  
garden varieties, may be marginal in parts of Virginia.  These                  
mums are best grown as annuals.                                                 
                                                                                
Chrysanthemums are relatively easy perennials to grow.  However,                
careful site and variety selection and proper cultural practices                
are needed to assure maximum autumn show.  Diseases and insects                 
can cause problems--especially stem rots, powdery mildew, aphids                
and spider mites. Should these or other problems occur, consult                 
your local Extension agent for recommended control measures.                    
                                                                                
As you enjoy the chrysanthemums in bloom around your neighbor-                  
hood, take note of your favorites.  Perhaps you can arrange for a               
trade of "starts" next spring when they are divided and thinned.                
Or, at least get the name so you can order it from the catalogs                 
to set in your favorite spot.                                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
FALL SOIL MANAGEMENT                                                            
                                                                                
Gardeners often wonder whether to do their plowing or tilling in                
the spring or fall.  Working the soil in the fall has several                   
advantages over the traditional spring plowing.                                 
                                                                                
It allows for earlier planting, since the basic soil preparation                
is already done when spring arrives.  The turning under of large                
amount of organic matter is likely to result in better decomposi-               
tion when done in the fall, as autumn temperatures are higher                   
than those of early spring, and there is more time for the                      
process to take place.                                                          
                                                                                
Insects, disease organisms and perennial weeds may be reduced                   
through burial, or exposure to harsh winter weather.  The                       
physical condition of heavy clay soils may be improved by the                   
alternate freezing and thawing, which breaks tightly aggregated                 
particles.                                                                      
                                                                                
When snow is trapped between the hills of roughly-plowed soil,                  
more moisture is retained than on flat, bare ground.  Incorpo-                  
ration of limestone in the fall gives the mineral time to become                
intergrated into the soil and influences spring plant growth.                   
                                                                                
To prepare for fall tilling, you should check soil fertility and                
pH by having your soil analyzed through a local Extension office.               
This test should be repeated at least once every three years.                   
                                                                                
Soil pH measures the degree of acidity or alkalinity of the                     
soil. Vegetables vary some in their requirements, but most garden               
crops will do well with a soil pH of 6.2-6.8.  This is a little                 
below neutral or slightly acid (sour).                                          
                                                                                
If soil pH is too high or low, poor crop growth will result,                    
largely due to the effects of pH on the availability of nutrients               
to plants.  A soil test also will give you an idea of the                       
nutrient level in your soil.                                                    
                                                                                
Lime and sulfur are commonly used to change soil pH.  The                       
correct soil pH is essential for optimum plant growth.  Dolomitic               
limestone adds calcium and magnesium as it increases pH.  Sulfur                
acidifies alkaline soil.  The amount to add depends on the                      
current and desired pH.  This is a good reason to have your soil                
checked periodically.                                                           
                                                                                
Wood ashes are often used as a soil amendment.  They contain                    
potash (potassium), phosphate, boron, and other elements.  Wood                 
ashes can be used to raise soil pH with twice as much ash applied               
as limestone for the same effect.                                               
                                                                                
Ashes should not come into contact with germinating seedlings or                
plant roots as they may cause root burn.  Spread a thin layer of                
ashes prior to winter, and incorporate it into the soil.  Check                 
pH yearly if you use wood ashes.  Never use coal ashes or large                 
amounts of wood ash (no more than 20 pounds per 1,000 square                    
feet), as toxicity problems may occur.                                          
                                                                                
Animal manures are commonly used directly as a garden soil                      
amendment both to improve soil structure and increase nutrients.                
The value of manure in terms of the nutrients it contains varies.               
                                                                                
Fresh horse, sheep, rabbit and poultry manures are quite high in                
nitrogen and may even "burn" plants if applied directly to a                    
growing garden.  They are best applied in the fall and tilled                   
under.                                                                          
                                                                                
Cover crops shouldn't be underestimated as a source for inexpens-               
ive soil improvement.  Green manures, or such cover crops                       
as annual rye, ryegrass, and oats, are planted in the garden in                 
the fall for incorporation in the spring.  For best results, seed               
should be sown at least a month before the first killing frost.                 
                                                                                
In a fall garden, plant cover crops between the rows and in any                 
cleared areas.  Cover cropping provides additional organic                      
matter, holds nutrients that might have been lost over the winter               
and helps reduce erosion and loss of topsoil.  Legume cover crops               
can increase the amount of nitrogen in the soil and reduce                      
fertilizer needs.                                                               
                                                                                
A deep-rooted cover crop like buckwheat, allowed to grow for a                  
season in problem soil, can help break a hardpan and greatly                    
improve tilth. Incorporate green manures into the soil at least                 
two weeks before planting vegetables. Do not allow them to go to                
seed.                                                                           
                                                                                
Fall plowing is not recommended for hillside or steep garden                    
plots since the soil, left exposed all winter, is subject to                    
erosion when the spring rains come.  If a winter cover crop is                  
grown to improve soil and prevent erosion, the ground will have                 
to be tilled in the fall to prepare the soil for seed, and again                
in spring to turn under the green manure.                                       
                                                                                
Spring plowing is better for sandy soils and those where shallow                
tilling is practiced.  Generally, most gardens must be disked or                
rotary-tilled in the spring to smooth the soil for planting.                    
However, as research is being done for no-till methods of crop                  
production, the potential for eliminating the heavy work of                     
tilling or plowing looks increasingly bright.                                   
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
This material was prepared by  Virginia Nathan, Horticulture                    
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Special-               
ist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has                   
been developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                   
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
 -----------------------                                                        
                                                                                
Can I dig up my chives and parsley and grow them indoors in                     
winter, or do I need to start from seed?                                        
                                                                                
To provide chives and parsley for winter use you may transplant a               
few clumps into five or six inch pots and grow them on a sunny                  
window sill. Use a light potting soil such as you would use for                 
your flowering house plants. Water at weekly intervals with a                   
soluble house plant fertilizer to promote vigorous growth.                      
                                                                                
Since chive bulbs multiply rapidly, clumps need to be divided                   
every two or three years to prevent excessive crowding. Dividing                
your plants now will benefit them and provide you with winter                   
herbs.                                                                          
                                                                                
Parsley is a biennial which ordinarily produces leaves during the               
first season, followed by flowers and seeds the second year. If                 
you pot up some of your plants this fall, they will continue to                 
produce leaves during the winter. They will not produce flower                  
stalks because they must go through a cold dormant period to                    
cause young flowers to be formed in the crown of the plant.                     
__________________________                                                      
                                                                                
Could you suggest some nut trees which will shade my yard as well               
as produce a crop in Virginia?                                                  
                                                                                
Pecans are suitable for home planting if you select varieties                   
which are adapted for your locality. Paper-shell pecans such as                 
Stuart and Desirable may be grown in southeastern Virginia. These               
require a long growing season to allow the kernel to attain plump               
size and fill the nut. The hardy northern pecans are divided into               
two groups: 1) Colby and Posey, 2) Major Giles and Perugue. These               
varieties are somewhat smaller than the southern types, but will                
produce edible nuts during the shorter growing season of the                    
Piedmont and Mountain areas. At least one from each group should                
be planted to insure cross-pollination.                                         
                                                                                
Walnuts can also be grown in Virginia if you select the hardy                   
Carpathian or Persian types. These are similar to the commercial                
types of English walnuts which are grown in California, but are                 
more tolerant of cold climatic conditions. Colby, Hansen, Helmle                
and McKinster are suggested varieties.                                          
                                                                                
Chinese Chestnuts are resistant to the blight which killed the                  
American species many years ago. Although the nuts are not                      
identical to those from native trees, they are an acceptable                    
substitute if you like chestnuts. Choose from the varieties                     
Orrin, Crane, Nanking, Abundance and Meiling. However, be aware                 
that the flowers can have a very unpleasant odor.                               
                                                                                
To ensure pollination and fruit set, plant two or more varieties                
of each type of nut. Select a deep, well-drained site to promote                
vigorous growth and long life. The best time to plant is about a                
month after the first killing frost, once the leaves have fallen                
from the trees. Apply a two-inch mulch of sawdust, peat moss, or                
other organic material around the trunk to conserve soil moisture               
and help reduce weed competition to the newly planted trees.                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
We have a hillside which I would like to make into a rock garden.               
Many rocks are already exposed. Please give me some pointers.                   
                                                                                
A rocky hillside or ledge may be made into a rock garden with a                 
minimum of work. For the best effect, at least half of the                      
surface should be made up of exposed rocks. If more rocks are                   
needed than are already present, use weathered native stone.                    
Place the rocks in a natural position with the strata in the same               
plane as existing material. The rocks you use should be large and               
well imbedded in the soil.                                                      
                                                                                
Plan your rock garden for easy maintenance. Place some large,                   
relatively flat stones throughout the garden on which you can                   
walk and stand to weed and set out new plants.                                  
                                                                                
Good soil drainage is essential in rock gardens. Most suitable                  
plants need adequate moisture, but they cannot tolerate poor                    
drainage and wet feet. Provide an adequate depth of good soil for               
your plants in the pockets between the rocks. If the soil is                    
poor, add leaf mold, or shredded peat moss and some dried manure.               
                                                                                
Autumn is a good time to set out bulbs and perennials in rock                   
gardens. Your planting should be completed by about the time of                 
the average first frost date to allow the plants or bulbs to send               
out new roots and become established before the ground freezes.                 
Apply water as needed during the fall and early winter to keep                  
the soil moist. Use a mulch of straw, shredded leaves or similar                
material to provide winter protection and conserve soil moisture.               
                                                                                
__________________________                                                      
                                                                                
Our lawn has many shade trees and I have been saving the leaves                 
through the winter to mulch my gardens for many years. Storage                  
space is at a premium now that we have a boat. Would compost work               
as well as a mulch, and what is the best way to compost leaves?                 
                                                                                
Although you will derive greater benefits by using leaves as a                  
mulch, composting them will reduce their volume to a manageable                 
level. Compost is excellent material to improve the soil in the                 
flower or vegetable garden, but it does not act as effective-                   
ly in weed control as leaves. And, of course, it does involve the               
additional work of building a compost pile.                                     
                                                                                
To make compost, assemble your leaves, lawn clippings and other                 
plant material in a six to eight inch layer. Apply one cup of                   
ground limestone, and one cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer per square                 
yard of organic litter, and cover with about one-half inch of                   
soil. Make as many layers as necessary to utilize the leaves you                
have available. Leave the pile concave on top to collect rain to                
supply the necessary moisture. During dry spells, water the pile                
to keep the contents moist.                                                     
                                                                                
Decomposition will proceed very slowly during the winter but will               
be quite rapid next spring. Turning the pile over once a month                  
will speed the process. Compost made this way should be ready to                
use by midsummer next year. Shredding the leaves with a commer-                 
cial shredder or lawn mower before building the compost pile will               
lessen the time required to break-down the leaves. The composting               
would be complete in several months and be ready for spring use.                
                                                                                
 -----------------------                                                        
                                                                                
I have peanuts growing in my garden. I have never grown them                    
before. When are they ready to dig and eat?                                     
                                                                                
The peanut crop should be harvested about 60 days after flowering               
when the plants turn yellow, or are killed by frost. When ready                 
to harvest, the inside of the shell should be brown and the                     
seedcoat will be light pink, unwrinkled, and very thin. The                     
inside of the pods will begin to develop dark-colored veins. If                 
harvested early, the seed will not have developed their maximum                 
size in the pod. Over-mature pods will break off the vine during                
the digging operation.                                                          
                                                                                
Lift the plants carefully with a garden fork and shake off the                  
loose soil. Cure the peanuts on the vine, or pulled off in trays,               
in a warm, airy place. About 4 to 8 weeks will be needed to dry                 
the nuts before roasting, depending on the temperature and                      
relative humidity of the air.                                                   
                                                                                
Roast unshelled or shelled peanuts on a cookie sheet for about 30               
minutes in an oven preheated to 300 degrees F. Stir frequently to               
avoid scorching. The nuts should be poured out of the hot pan as                
soon as they are removed from the oven. It is better to roast                   
peanuts for too short a time than to have them overcooked. When                 
properly roasted, the skin slips easily and the kernel is light                 
brown.                                                                          
                                                                                
Shelled, roasted peanuts should be stored in tight containers in                
a refrigerator. For long storage, place them in a freezer at 0                  
degrees F or lower.                                                             
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Should I cut off the fronds of my asparagus?  If so, when?                      
                                                                                
After harvest is over, asparagus spears should be allowed to                    
grow. Asparagus has an attractive, fern-like foliage that makes a               
nice garden border. Some gardeners prefer to support the growing                
foliage with stakes and strings to keep them tidy. In high-wind                 
areas, it is a good idea to plant the rows parallel to the                      
prevailing winds so that the plants support each other to some                  
extent.                                                                         
                                                                                
In all asparagus plantings, cut the foliage down to 2" stubs                    
after frost, when the foliage yellows, but before the red berries               
fall off. A 4-6" mulch of compost, manure, leaves or other                      
material added at this time will help control weeds and add                     
organic matter and nutrients.                                                   
_______________________                                                         
                                                                                
How and when should I plant hyacinths?  Are they perennials?  Are               
they hardy?                                                                     
                                                                                
Hyacinths grow from bulbs which must be planted in the fall. They               
are easy to plant and require very little maintenance. They are                 
hardy perennials, and will continue to bloom for several years,                 
although the quality of the flower decreases each year in many                  
areas. Plant hyacinth bulbs when the soil temperature has fallen                
to 60 degrees F. In northern climates that generally occurs from                
late September to early November. In the South, the bulbs can be                
planted through December.                                                       
                                                                                
Hyacinths prefer partial shade. Avoid planting them in areas                    
which receive direct midday sun. Good drainage is essential.                    
Break up and loosen the soil to a depth of 10 inches. If the soil               
is mostly clay, mix in an organic material such as peat moss or                 
compost in amounts up to 50 percent in volume.                                  
Plant hyacinths, tulips and other large bulbs 8 inches deep (from               
ground level to the base of the bulb). Space them 6 inches apart.               
Once the bulbs are in position, cover them with about 3 to 4                    
inches of soil and water the area. Add  the remaining soil and                  
water again.                                                                    
                                                                                
Fertilization improves bulb performance and encourages longevity.               
Two fertilizing methods are recommended. One utilizes a sulfur                  
coated, slow release complete fertilizer incorporated into the                  
rooting area at the rate of one rounded tablespoon per square                   
foot. A single application will nourish the bulbs throughout the                
fall, winter and spring. The other method is an application of                  
8-8-8 (one level tablespoon) or 10-10-10 (one rounded teaspoon)                 
fertilizer per square foot in the fall. Apply again in the spring               
when the first shoots break through the ground.                                 
                                                                                
Many gardeners prefer to use bone meal as a slow release source                 
of phosphorus for their bulbs. This works very well used at the                 
rate of one teaspoon incorporated into the planting hole of each                
bulb.                                                                           
After planting, cover the area with a 3-inch layer of organic                   
mulch. Keep the soil moist, particularly during dry spells.                     
                                                                                
Avoid the temptation to plant hyacinths in stiff rows and stark                 
geometric patterns.                                                             
They look best when nestled among shrubbery or interplanted in                  
clumps with other bulb flowers. Since they grow about 10 inches                 
tall, they are especially effective in combination with daffodils               
and tulips. If hyacinths are to be used in borders, plant them                  
two or three rows deep, rather than in a single row. Mix and                    
match colors for maximum effect.                                                
                                                                                
 -------------------------                                                      
                                                                                
What should I do with empty pesticide containers?                               
                                                                                
Dispose of empty pesticide containers in the manner specified on                
their labels. Generally the recommendation is either to burn the                
container, or throw it away with trash destined for a sanitary                  
landfill.                                                                       
                                                                                
Some states have special chemical dumps for pesticides; however,                
Virginia does not have such dump sites.                                         
                                                                                
Containers designed to hold liquids should be rinsed with a small               
quantity of water. The rinse water should be poured into a spray                
tank and used.                                                                  
                                                                                
Containers designed to hold dry formulations should be burned,                  
one at a time, in a location where the smoke can not reach                      
desirable plants, people and animals. In many cases this may be                 
impossible. If so, containers should be thrown away following the               
EPA procedures below for bags of chemicals. Never burn aerosol                  
cans; they can explode.                                                         
                                                                                
The EPA suggested procedures for homeowners to dispose of small                 
quantities of waste pesticides are as follows:                                  
                                                                                
Liquid formulations in quantities of less than 1 gallon should be               
left in the original container. Make sure the cap is securely in                
place to prevent spills or leaks. Wrap in several layers of                     
newspaper and secure. The package should then be placed in a                    
trash receptacle for routine collection with municipal refuse.                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
Dry formulations in quantities of one bag or less (up to 10                     
pounds) should be secured to prevent leaking. This can be done by               
wrapping in paper or placing the package in a tight carton or                   
bag, and taping or tying it closed. Once secured, the package                   
should be placed in an appropriate trash collection receptacle.                 
                                                                                
                                                                                
Small quantities of pesticides, when handled as described above,                
do not present a hazard to trash collectors or to the environ-                  
ment. A properly operated sanitary landfill presents a large                    
dilution factor and provides sufficient containment to negate any               
hazardous effects the product may present. One should be aware of               
local ordinances and sanitary landfill rules before disposing of                
pesticides.                                                                     
                                                                                
These are the federal EPA guidelines and not those of the                       
Virginia Cooperative Extension Service. Although they seem                      
reasonable for most situations, there can be exceptions which                   
warrant further guidance. If in doubt contact your local exten-                 
sion agent, or call the Virginia Department of Agriculture and                  
Consumer Services (804/786-3798), the Virginia Department of                    
Health,  Bureau of Solid and Hazardous Waste Management (804-                   
786-1754), or the EPA (800/424-9346).                                           
                                                                                
(Excerpted from an article by Michael J. Weaver, Extension                      
Pesticide Information Coordinator)                                              
                                                                                
 -----------------------                                                        
                                                                                
Little by little, my lawn is being taken over by moss. What can I               
do to stop it?                                                                  
                                                                                
The presence of moss in a lawn indicates a basic fault in the                   
lawn environment; it rarely invades a healthy lawn. Moss is                     
usually associated with low fertility, poor subsurface drainage                 
and high soil acidity; but improper watering, too much shade,                   
soil compaction, or a combination of any of these factors can                   
lead to moss encroachment. The environmental problem must be                    
diagnosed and corrected in order to eliminate moss growth.                      
                                                                                
Lack of fertility is the most common cause of moss invasion. A                  
regular balanced fertilizer program will go a long way toward                   
preventing moss. Aerating the soil, incorporating coarse organic                
matter, and liming also discourages moss.                                       
                                                                                
Algae is another type of plant that may be found growing in moist               
areas under trees where it is often mistaken for moss. Typical                  
forms of algae are the green slimes on the trunks of trees and                  
flower pots, and the green scum on pond water. Algae is colony of               
fresh water plants with no true roots, stems or leaves. Like                    
moss, algae will return if the causal factor, usually poor                      
drainage, is not corrected.                                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS FOR NURSERY OPERATORS                              
        __________________________________________                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
        The  Virginia  Tech Extension Service is planning a series of educa-    
        tional programs for nursery operators over the  next  seven  months.    
        Following is a schedule of program dates and topics:                    
                                                                                
        o  Oct.   21-22,   Opportunities   in  Horticulture  and  Turfgrass,    
           Donaldson Brown Continuing Education Center, Virginia Tech           
                                                                                
        o  Oct. 28-30, Beginning in the  Nursery  Business,  Prince  William    
           County Extension Office, Manassas                                    
                                                                                
        o  Nov. 4-5, Weed Control in the Nursery, Donaldson Brown Center        
                                                                                
        o  Nov. 17-19, Production of Native Plants, Donaldson Brown Center      
                                                                                
        o  Feb. 17-19, Plant Propagation and Tissue Culture, Donaldson Brown    
           Center                                                               
                                                                                
        o  Feb.  24-25,  Container-Grown  Plant  Production  and  Nutrition,    
           Hampton Roads Agriculture Experiment Station, Virginia Beach         
                                                                                
        o  Mar. 24-25, Nursery and Greenhouse Insects, Donaldson Brown  Cen-    
           ter                                                                  
                                                                                
        All  programs  will  begin  at 8 a.m. with the exception of the weed    
        control seminar which begins at 12:30 p.m.  Registration is  limited    
        to  20  in  each program with the exception of the plant propagation    
        program which is limited to 15.                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        NOTES FROM HAMPTON ROADS AG EXPT STATION                                
        ________________________________________                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        Anyone using or considering using one of the in-ground  fabric  con-    
        tainers  for nursery or living Christmas tree production (Field-Grow    
        Container and Tree Sox are the only two that are on the market right    
        now), learn from my mistakes this year.   We  augered  some  of  our    
        planting  holes  too  deep, and when we backfilled to bring the soil    
        level up to the recommended planting height, we did  not  pack  that    
        soil down enough.  Between that settling and the settling of soil in    
        the  two container types, some of my trees are becoming mild subter-    
        ranean and may be harvested by the Chinese in a few years!    There-    
        fore,  don't  auger those holes too deep and pack the soil in before    
        planting.  Err on the shallow side if anything.  And consider what I    
        plan to do this year; I'm going to put mine in the ground this  fall    
        and let them settle in over winter before spring planting into them.    
        That could help spread out labor use also.                              
                                                                                
        A  Christmas tree species from the southwest that likes sandy soils,    
        drought, and heat (Pinus eldarica) will be added  to  the  Christmas    
                          ________________                                      
        tree  demonstration  plot  next year for evaluation.   It reportedly    
        grows up to six feet per year in Arizona.  We'll keep you posted  on    
        how it does.                                                            
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        Also  to  be  added to the Christmas tree plot next year will be se-    
        veral hollies for evaluation as cut Christmas  greens.    J.  Nelson    
        Stuart  of Lancaster, Virginia, feels we have great potential in the    
        Tidewater area for English holly orcharding that  could  rival  pro-    
        duction now almost exclusively restricted to Oregon and Washington.     
                                                                                
        SEEDS AND PLANTS NOW CAN BE PATENTED:  A recent decision by the U.S.    
        Board of Patent Appeals and Interferences, reversing decades of fed-    
        eral rulings, allows patents to be granted for "man-made" plant life    
        (artificially bred "novel" forms).  In 1980, the Supreme Court ruled    
        that  "man-made" microorganisms can be patented; the recent BPAI de-    
        cision extends this ruling to seeds, plants, and plant  tissue  cul-    
        tures.                                                                  
                                                                                
        The history behind plant-patenting is interesting.  The Plant Patent    
        Act  (PPA)  of  1930  permitted patenting of vegetatively propagated    
        plants only; the Plant Variety Protection Act (PVPA) allowed certain    
        rights for developers of  new  varieties  of  some  seed  propagated    
        plants.    In  both  cases, the protected plants were required to be    
        "novel."  Before the PPA, plant-patenting had been dismissed as  in-    
        appropriate  because plants were considered to be products of nature    
        and because written descriptions  (as  required  for  patents)  were    
        thought to be difficult or impossible for plants.                       
                                                                                
        Now  breeders  and  propagators  can protect "new" plants which they    
        "create" and in some cases this can simply mean finding a novel  va-    
        riety  already  growing  somewhere, although usually it will involve    
        breeding - via a standard product patent.  Of course, the  seed  in-    
        dustry is unabashedly gleeful over this turn of events, making pred-    
        ictions   for   increasing   applications   of   "biotechnology"  in    
        agriculture and horticulture.  One thing is clear - there will be  a    
        lot of patented plants in our future!                                   
                                                                                
        (Taken  from  Seed  World, Vol. 123, No. 13, December 1985, Scranton    
        Gillette Communications, Inc., 380 Northwest Hwy., Des  Plaines,  IL    
        60016.)                                                                 
                                                                                
        ROUNDUP AROUND WOODY PLANTS SAFEST IN THE FALL?:  Recent research at    
        North  Carolina  State University appears to imply that applications    
        of  glyphosate   herbicide   (Monsanto's   Roundup)   around   woody    
        ornamentals  may be safest in the fall.  In trials with several spe-    
        cies, glyphosate was found to be minimally toxic  (or  at  least  no    
        more  toxic)  in the fall, compared to applications in the spring or    
        in the summer.  In the absence of data on  other  species'  seasonal    
        fluctuations  in  glyphosate tolerance, it seems reasonable to apply    
        the herbicide only in the fall to limit possible  damage  to  nearby    
        woody ornamentals -- assuming, of course, that adequate weed control    
        with  glyphosate  is  possible  at that time of year in the specific    
        situation at hand.  (If you must use it at all.)                        
                                                                                
        (By J. C. Neal and W. A. Skroch, "Effects  of  Timing  and  Rate  of    
        Glyphosate  Application  on Toxicity to Selected Woody Ornamentals,"    
        Journal of The American Society for Hort. Science, Vol. 110, No.  6,    
        November 1985.)                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        LANDSCAPE  IRRIGATION  SYSTEMS MAINTENANCE HANDBOOK:   The Idea Bank    
        (1000 E. Apache Blvd, Suite 211, Tempe,  AZ  85281)  is  selling  an    
        88-page  handbook on troubleshooting and maintaining landscape irri-    
        gation systems,  with  step-by-step  guidelines  and  how-to  illus-    
        trations for in-field workers.  Price is $16 postpaid.                  
                                                                                
        KEEP  THIS  NUMBER HANDY IF YOU USE PESTICIDES:  The National Pesti-    
        cide Telecommunication Network (NPTN) is a  round-the-clock  service    
        funded  by  the  U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.   A toll-free    
        call to NPTN at 1-800-858-7379 from anywhere within  the  contiguous    
        U.S.  will  access  information  in  a  hurry on pesticide poisoning    
        treatment, pesticide product information, clean-up and disposal rec-    
        ommendations, regulatory laws, etc.                                     
                                                                                
        COVER UP FOR PESTICIDE APPLICATION -- BUT HOW?:  Researchers at  the    
        University  of  California,  Berkeley, report that recent tests have    
        shown that pesticides can sometimes accumulate on skin areas covered    
        by protective clothing, including rubber gloves.  Just how the chem-    
        icals penetrate safety garb is currently unknown, and the  research-    
        ers  admit  to  being  surprised  by  the findings.   For occasional    
        pesticide users, it appears that the best plan  is  to  shower  com-    
        pletely after exposure -- just washing off "exposed" areas, that is,    
        areas  unprotected  by  clothing, may not be adequate since even the    
        "protected" areas could in fact be exposed!                             
                                                                                
        (Taken from Agrichemical  Age,  Vol.  29,  No.  10,  December  1985,    
        California  Publishing  Co.,  83  Stevenson  St.,  San Francisco, CA    
        94105.)                                                                 
                                                                                
        COMPUTER SOFTWARE FOR CUSTOM PRINTING PLANT TAGS:    Fox  Hill  Farm    
        (444  W.  Michigan  Ave.,  Box  7,  Parma,  MI  49269)  is  offering    
        "Tagprinter" (IBM PC compatible) software to  custom  print  plastic    
        plant  tags  using a conventional dot-matrix printer.  Several lines    
        of information can be printed on each tag.  Price is $95,  including    
        a  supply  of  tags (extra tags are available from Fox Hill).  Looks    
        like an economical alternative to preprinted or handwritten tags for    
        small commercial growers.  Write for more details and sample tags.      
                                                                                
        TRICKLE IRRIGATION PUBLICATION:  "Trickle Irrigation in the  Eastern    
        U.S.,"  a  24-page  guidebook,  is available for $3.00 postpaid from    
        NRAES, Riley Robb Hall, Cornell University, Ithaca,  NY  14853.    A    
        4-page  bulletin,  "Trickle  Irrigation  for  Home Gardens," is also    
        available from the same address for 30 cents.    NRAES  offers  many    
        other  publications and computer programs of interest to amateur and    
        professional growers; write for a complete list.                        
                                                                                
                                                                Bonnie          
        Appleton                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        FALL PLANTING AND GARDENING ACTIVITIES                                  
        ______________________________________                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
        Don't retire the lawn mower when the growth of your lawn slows  down    
        this  fall.    As  long as the grass continues to grow, it should be    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        mowed.  Contact your local Cooperative Extension Office for  recomm-    
        endations on fertilizing your lawn this fall.                           
                                                                                
        Do  not  allow  leaves  to accumulate on the lawn.  When leaves fall    
        from your shade trees, rake them up regularly and store  them  in  a    
        pile for use as mulch in your garden next summer.  If leaves accumu-    
        late and become matted down by rain, they will seriously damage your    
        grass.                                                                  
                                                                                
        Plant  shrubs  and trees this fall to add new interest to your land-    
        scape.  Balled and burlapped evergreen  species  or  container-grown    
        deciduous  shrubs may be planted at any time.  Field-grown deciduous    
        plants which are usually sold bare-root  are  easier  to  transplant    
        when  they  are dormant.   The best time for this job is to start at    
        about the time of the first killing frost in your area and finish in    
        about 3 to 4 weeks.   This will allow  your  plants  to  start  root    
        growth before deep cold sets in and the ground freezes.                 
                                                                                
        When  planting trees and shrubs, dig holes which are large enough to    
        allow all roots to be extended  to  their  full  length.    Put  the    
        topsoil  in  one  pile and the less fertile subsoil in another.  Use    
        the topsoil around the roots of your plant and the subsoil  on  top.    
        Do  not put fertilizer in the planting hole because it will burn the    
        roots.  Scatter some 5-10-5 garden fertilizer on the surface  around    
        the newly planted shrub or tree and rake it into the soil.              
                                                                                
        Daffodils,  tulips,  and  other  spring  flowering  bulbs  should be    
        planted as soon as they are secured from your garden center or plant    
        store.  Plant as early as possible in the fall to allow the bulbs to    
        develop a good root system before the ground freezes.  The  planting    
        should  be  completed  not later than 2 or 3 weeks after the average    
        first fall frost date in your area.                                     
                                                                                
        Buy only high-quality bulbs from a reliable source.  Cheap bulbs may    
        be of poor quality and inferior  varieties.    Small  bulbs  produce    
        small  blooms.    High-quality  U.S. bulbs are just as good as those    
        from foreign sources.                                                   
                                                                                
        Daffodils are probably the most  useful  and  dependable  of  spring    
        flowering  bulbs.  Varieties are now available which range in height    
        from 4 to 20 inches.  Some of the dwarf daffodils may be  used  like    
        crocus  in  the shrub or border plantings.  The taller varieties may    
        be used for mass display in beds, naturalizing, or for  cut  flowers    
        in the home.                                                            
                                                                                
        Some of the new pink daffodils are extremely attractive.  During re-    
        cent  years  some  plant breeders have worked frantically to develop    
        varieties with a bright pink trumpet or cup.  You may also add vari-    
        ety to your daffodil collection by including some of  the  fragrant,    
        cluster-flowered  Tazetta  types.    They  will bring the delightful    
        aroma of spring into your home when they are used in flower arrange-    
        ments.                                                                  
                                                                                
                                                                JAMES     A.    
        FAISZT                                                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        PRE-PLANT FUMIGATION FOR SMALL FRUITS                                   
        _____________________________________                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
        Fumigation prior to planting should be considered by all small fruit    
        growers.  Fumigation is almost always beneficial, and if it were not    
        for  cost,  this  practice  would  be  a standard recommendation for    
        brambles and strawberries.                                              
                                                                                
        The advantages of fumigation are nematode,  soil-insect,  weed,  and    
        pathogen  control in one procedure.  The major disadvantage is cost,    
        so the grower must decide if benefits outweigh the expense.    Obvi-    
        ously  fumigation  is  beneficial  in sites infested with nematodes,    
        verticillium wilt, Phytophthora spp., and insect larvae.    However,    
                           ____________                                         
        many  growers in the Northeast can select a site which is relatively    
        free of these harmful pests.  Can fumigation pay for itself in  such    
        sites?                                                                  
                                                                                
        In  California,  strawberry  beds  are  fumigated each year prior to    
        planting because site selection  is  limited.    Over  half  of  the    
        fumigated acreage in that state is planted to strawberries.  A study    
        conducted  in 1971 by Victor Voth revealed that even after 5 succes-    
        sive fumigations, a methyl  bromide-chloropicrin  mixture  increased    
        yields  27%  over  a non-fumigated bed (which had been fumigated the    
        previous 5 years).  This increase was more than  sufficient  to  pay    
        for  the  cost  of the fumigation.  A study in West Virginia in 1978    
        found that yields of 'Surecrop' were increased 1/2 ton per  acre  in    
        response  to  Vorlex fumigation.  In 1984, Voth and Bringhurst found    
        that Vapam fumigation  increased  yields  19%  and  methyl  bromide-    
        chloropicrin 27%.  A study in Kentucky documented yield increases of    
        9% in land never planted to strawberries.  No differences were noted    
        the second year, however.                                               
                                                                                
        Strawberry  yields  in  California  averaged  11,000  lbs/acre  from    
        1950-1960.  After the widespread use of fumigation, yields increased    
        to an average of 55,000 lbs/acre.   Obviously not all  the  increase    
        was  due  to  fumigation;  however, this practice allowed strawberry    
        breeders to concentrate on yield, size, and shipping  quality  while    
        ignoring  disease  resistance.   Strawberry breeders could then make    
        rapid progress through selection on fewer trials.  Eastern  breeders    
        must   screen   cultivars   for   resistance  to  several  races  of    
        Phytophthora and Verticillium, in addition to fruit quality traits.     
        ____________     _____________                                          
                                                                                
        There are several additional advantages of soil fumigation.  Pythium    
                                                                     _______    
        and other harmful pathogens are controlled.   Nitrogen  is  released    
        from these dying organisms, and bacteria which oxidize nitrogen to a    
        leachable form are destroyed.  Fertilizer needs have been reduced in    
        half  since  growers began fumigating in California.  They have also    
        measured better nutrient uptake even though  mycorrhizae  fungi  are    
        killed.   Since weeds are also controlled, growers have been able to    
        avoid the use of herbicides.                                            
                                                                                
        This last point may have implications for raspberry growers  in  the    
        Northeast.    We  have  received  reports that young tissue-cultured    
        raspberries are extremely sensitive to simazine.  When we  attempted    
        to  find  an alternative, all the herbicides we examined had effects    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        on growth.  One solution may be to plant only on fumigated beds  and    
        avoid the use of herbicides for one year.                               
                                                                                
        There are several choices of a fumigant although some may be prohib-    
        ited  in  certain  areas  (e.g.  Long Island).   The most common are    
        MBC-33   (methyl   bromide-chloropicrin),   Vorlex,    Vapam,    D-D    
        (dichloropropene-dichloropropane),  and Telone II.  The former gives    
        the broad range of pest control with the methyl bromide  controlling    
        weeds and nematodes, and chloropicrin controlling soil pathogens.       
                                                                                
        Regardless  of choice, one must prepare the site for the fumigant to    
        work properly.  The site must be free of weeds and all  plant  mate-    
        rial  must be decomposed.  Fumigants can be absorbed by organic mat-    
        ter and lose effectiveness.  Since the fumigant  moves  through  the    
        soil  air,  the  soil  should be friable with no clods.  Soil should    
        also be moist (approx. 50% field capacity) and have a temperature of    
        50-90*F.  The best time to fumigate in the Northeast  is  September.    
        This  will allow sufficient time for the fumigant to escape from the    
        soil prior to spring planting.                                          
                                                                                
        The following are specific notes  for  some  of  the  commonly  used    
        fumigants.                                                              
                                                                                
        MBC-33 OR MBC-2                                                         
                                                                                
        1.  Use MBC-33 (33% chloropicrin) where soil pathogens are present.     
        2.  Requires a special application device.                              
        3.  Bed must be tarped after injection.                                 
        4.  Must rework bed after one week to allow gases to escape.            
        5.  Expensive but effective.                                            
        6.  Can be used to sterilize straw prior to mulching.                   
                                                                                
        VORLEX                                                                  
                                                                                
        1.  Requires a special application device.                              
        2.  Will  work on cold soils (to 40*F), but not on warm soils (above    
            75*) without tarping.                                               
        3.  Tarping is most effective although a water seal will work.          
        4.  Fall application is recommended as it is slow to leave the soil.    
        5.  Herbicide program still necessary in first year.                    
        6.  Avoid ammonium based fertilizers the following spring.              
                                                                                
        VAPAM                                                                   
                                                                                
        1.  Can be applied through an irrigation system (including drip sys-    
            tems).                                                              
        2.  Relatively safe to use.                                             
        3.  Herbicide program still necessary in first year.                    
                                                                                
        D-D                                                                     
                                                                                
        1.  Not effective in heavy soils.                                       
        2.  Avoid ammonium based fertilizers the following spring.              
        3.  Herbicide program still necessary in first year.                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        TELONE II                                                               
                                                                                
        1.  Most effective on nematodes but little weed control.                
        2.  Do not use on heavy soils.                                          
        3.  Corrosive.                                                          
                                                                                
        With any fumigant, avoid recontamination by cleaning field equipment    
        before entering the site, keep weeds  mowed  in  surrounding  areas,    
        avoid  deep  plowing, and do not use transplants infested with pests    
        or pathogens.                                                           
                                                                                
        Now back to the original question.  Will fumigation pay for  itself?    
        Obviously  no  one  answer  will apply to everyone.  If the site has    
        high  levels  of  nematodes,  or   if   Phytophthora,   red   stele,    
                                                _____________                   
        verticillium wilt, black root rot, or root weevils are present, then    
        the  answer is probably yes.  If a site has been planted to the same    
        crop for many years, it should help to fumigate prior to replanting.    
                                                                                
        Now is the time to consider fumigation for sites to  be  planted  in    
        1987.                                                                   
                                                                                
        (By  Marvin  P.  Pritts,  Extension Faculty, Department of Pomology,    
        Cornell University, Ithaca, NY.  Taken from Small Fruit  Newsletter,    
        August  1986,  Cooperative  Extension Association of Suffolk County,    
        New York.)                                                              
                                                                                
                                                                 JERRY          
        WILLIAMS                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        USE CAUTION WITH HOMEMADE FERTILIZERS                                   
        _____________________________________                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
        We would like our homegrown vegetables and summer flowering  annuals    
        to  look  like the pictures we see in the seed catalogs and the blue    
        ribbon winners at the county fair.   With the range  of  fertilizers    
        available  these  days,  we  needn't be satisfied with less than the    
        ideal.                                                                  
                                                                                
        Fertilizers build soil and provide plants with the nutrients  needed    
        to  increase  growth and nutritional content and the gardener's per-    
        sonal satisfaction.  Fertilizer for the average home gardener is not    
        expensive.   A few dollars  buys  enough  fertilizer  to  completely    
        change  the  nutrient level of the soil.  A wide variety of formulas    
        are available and suitable for most gardening  situations,  although    
        5-10-5 and 10-10-10 seem to be the favorites.                           
                                                                                
        Some valuable soil boosters like ashes, compost, or barnyard manure,    
        for  example,  are  free.   Compost is decomposed, discarded organic    
        plant material such as leaves or grass clippings, stems  and  stalks    
        from  harvested  vegetables, pea hulls, overripe fruits, and kitchen    
        scraps, including egg shells and coffee grounds.                        
                                                                                
        Gardeners should exercise caution in using  these  commonplace  soil    
        boosters.    Ashes,  for  example,  should come only from woodstoves    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        where little or no trash is incinerated.  Coal ashes and ashes  from    
        lead-painted  or  chemically-treated  wood  may have a bad effect on    
        plants.   Ashes from cardboard boxes  and  paper  bags  may  contain    
        boron,  a  component  of glue that is toxic to plants if too much is    
        present in the soil.  Ashes should not be applied to  gardens  where    
        potassium  levels  are  high  or  added to the soil at the same time    
        fertilizers containing nitrogen in the form of ammonium are added.      
                                                                                
        Gardeners should exercise judgment  before  using  compost.    While    
        composts  can get rid of a lot of plant refuse from the yard or gar-    
        den, composting will not kill many weed seeds, disease organisms, or    
        underground stems and roots  of  many  weeds  and  grasses.    These    
        plants,  as  well  as those homegrown vegetables which were infected    
        with root maggots, should be kept out of the compost pile.              
                                                                                
        Since most plant refuse needs nitrogen to decompose, a  second  pre-    
        caution  must be followed when making and using compost from plants.    
        If the refuse is to be composted first, apply nitrogen fertilizer to    
        the compost pile.  If you wish to add  organic  refuse  directly  to    
        your  garden soil, add a nitrogen fertilizer at the same time.  This    
        will prevent the undecomposed organic material from robbing nitrogen    
        from the soil.    Compost  from  kitchen  scraps  need  no  nitrogen    
        fertilizer  unless  there  is a lot of plant material like cornhusks    
        mixed in.                                                               
                                                                                
        Manure can be a good fertilizer, but its value depends on the extent    
        to which it has been diluted with straw,  sawdust  or  shavings,  or    
        whether  or  not it has been stored outdoors where heavy rains leach    
        out valuable nutrients.  Fresh manure should never touch plants  di-    
        rectly.    It  is  best applied in the fall after already being par-    
        tially decomposed and allowed to  complete  decomposition  over  the    
        winter.  Rotted or dehydrated manure can be mixed with the soil dur-    
        ing prepaation of plant beds in the spring and as a mulch.              
                                                                                
                                                                  JAMES   A.    
        FAISZT                                                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        ALL AMERICAN SELECTIONS FOR 1987                                        
        ________________________________                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
        Basil, 'Purple Ruffles' -- An  annual  ornamental  herb  with  deep,    
        _______________________                                                 
        reddish black glossy leaves, quite possibly the darkest purple color    
        of  any  garden  annual.   It has strong aromatic fragrance when the    
        leaves are lightly crushed.                                             
                                                                                
        Petunia, 'Purple Pirouette' -- It is the first double petunia with a    
        ___________________________                                             
        pure white petal edge.  Each ruffled petal has a white border with a    
        rich velvety purple center.   The fully  double  grandiflora  blooms    
        measure 3 1/2 to 4 inches and are borne on dwarf compact plants.        
                                                                                
        Sanvitalia  (Creeping  Zinnia),  'Mandarin  Orange'  -- Is the first    
        ___________________________________________________                     
        sanvitalia with orange flowers, and the flower form can be described    
        as a miniature sunflower with one inch semidouble flowers.  It has a    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        spreading ground  cover.    Once  established  it  thrives  in  hot,    
        brilliantly sunny locations and requires little garden maintenance.     
                                                                                
        Snapdragon,  'Princess White with Purple Eye' -- It is a new bicolor    
        _____________________________________________                           
        in the semidwarf class.  Pure white florets with  a  purple  center.    
        The  6  to  8  inch flower spikes can be cut and used for floral ar-    
        rangements.  Will grow in either a full sun or a half day shade  lo-    
        cation.                                                                 
                                                                                
        Pumpkin  Hybrid,  'Autumn  Gold'  -- It begins coloring its pumpkins    
        ________________________________                                        
        golden yellow while still immature.  It is very early to mature,  90    
        days  from sowing.  Early coloring pumpkins and an early harvest are    
        two unique qualities that give 'Autumn Gold'  a  distinct  advantage    
        for  gardeners.    The  hybrid  vigor results in a highly productive    
        plant bearing three to five pumpkins per vine.   The pumpkins  weigh    
        from seven to ten pounds.                                               
                                                                                
                                                                    PAUL  L.    
        SMEAL                                                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        NEW PORTABLE OR FIELD USE POCKET PH METER                               
        _________________________________________                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
        Dear Extension Agents:                                                  
                                                                                
        Before you read this, remember this is a communication to you not  a    
        commercial  for the general public for some product or a recommenda-    
        tion to the general public.  Ears perk up in  many  places  when  we    
        mention  product  names, but the purpose of HortFacts is to communi-    
                                                    _________                   
        cate information to you agents, so  please  remember  the  following    
        product  information  does not qualify for penalty mail to your cli-    
                                   ___                                          
        ents.                                                                   
                                                                                
        Production of vegetable crops requires close attention to  all  cul-    
        tural   best  management  practices,  including  soil  pH  and  soil    
        fertility.  Even older experienced vegetable producers  occasionally    
        "back-slide"  and forget how fast intensive vegetable production can    
        lower soil pH.  I have a favorite saying about soil pH and vegetable    
        production -- Lime is your BEST fertilizer!  Lime is also  the  most    
        economical of all soil amendments to purchase, truly a bargain!         
                                                                                
        However, we can also overlime or get carried away to extremes on an-    
        ything (why I even once turkey hunted and camped in the woods in the    
        rain  for  3  straight  days,  nearly  ruining my clothing, firearm,    
        health, and outlook)!  Sending off soil samples is costly and  slow,    
        especially  if  a farmer client has a suspected soil pH problem on a    
        vegetable crop field at planting time or even early  in  the  season    
        after planting.  A quick on-the-spot accurate pH test and quick cor-    
                                             ________                           
        rective  liming  action will improve both his profitability and your    
        professional image!                                                     
                                                                                
        With this thought in mind, I've tried several  portable  pH  meters.    
        Most   are  cheaply  priced  and  results  are  terrible,  i.e.  not    
        duplicable  or  consistently  repeatable.    Then,  when  calibrated    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
        against  known pH standards and soil pH lab tests, they were inaccu-    
                                    ___                                         
        rate, often "off" by several points; save your money folks!             
                                                                                
        Then last February, alone out at the  Indiana  State  Hort.  Society    
        Meetings  and  Trade  Show,  I suddenly spied this cute little . . .    
        gadget at a booth, called the  Nester  Instruments  pH  Pen.    With    
        miniaturized,  space  age  circuitry  winking back at me, powered by    
        tiny calculator-type batteries, a protected glass/gel proble, even a    
        pocket clip (sigh), my heart went out to it.   But fate  intervened,    
        the $90 cost I could not find so far from home!  The best I could do    
        was  return  with  a  flyer  handout  to hang on my office wall as a    
        "pin-up poster" in memory of our fateful meeting!                       
                                                                                
        Finally I found the funds to purchase this little beauty and ran  it    
        through the tests against both known pH lab standards and field soil    
        test  lab results.  I received the pen in late August so field tests    
        are not sufficiently completed, but so far the pen is right on, both    
        accurate and repeatable to within .1 pH point in every case.            
                                                                                
        Following is more information for your use, including the simple in-    
        structions for field soil pH testing.  This product really works and    
        only requires a 5 minute wait for stabilizing a half cup soil and  a    
        half cup of distilled water stirred together before reading results!    
        If  I  appear to be carrying a sidearm, why it's only my plastic jug    
        of distilled H2O on my belt.   With a firm  jaw,  steely  eyes,  and    
        quick  draw, I'll get the drop on the 'ole acid bankrobber before he    
        can even blink and get buffered up!                                     
                                                                                
                                                                CHARLES   R.    
        O'DELL                                                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
September Monthly Notes                                                         
                                                                                
* An easy indoor plant watering system can be designed by                       
inserting an asbestos-glass water wick into one of the drainage                 
holes of a pot. Or old nylon stockings can be braided and used                  
instead. Set the pot on a water reservoir made from heavy plastic               
such as large-sized whipped margarine containers. Prepare the                   
lid by making two holes; one for the wick to reach the water,                   
and a larger one for supplying fresh water. This is a highly                    
efficient system for carefree watering. However, the plants                     
should be periodically watered from the top to flush accumulated                
minerals from the soil.                                                         
                                                                                
* Don't overlook excellent sources of organic material available                
during the fall. Leaves are abundant and neighbors will usually                 
be glad to give their leaves to you. Plow some into the garden                  
now and store some for next year's mulch.                                       
                                                                                
* You can help leaves break down more easily by running a lawn                  
mover back and forth over the pile. Put the shredded leaves                     
directly onto the garden or compost pile.                                       
                                                                                
* Cover crops can be planted as early as August 1, but should                   
not be planted any later than November 1. They should make some                 
growth before hard frost kills them. Where you have fall crops                  
growing, you can sow cover crop seed between rows a month or                    
less before expected harvest. This way, the cover crop gets                     
a good start but will not interfere with vegetable plant growth.                
                                                                                
* If you plan to move some of your chives indoors this winter,                  
this is the time to pot them up. When dividing your outdoor                     
plants, select young, mature plants and pot 8 to 10 per 6"                      
pot. They will do best on a sunny windowsill.                                   
                                                                                
* Sowing seeds of hardy annuals such as sweet alyssum, pinks                    
and sweet peas will give the seedlings time to get established                  
and develop good root systems before the coldest part of winter.                
This gives them a head start on growth and flowering next spring.               
                                                                                
* Take cuttings of such annual bedding plants as begonias,                      
coleus, geraniums and impatiens. Rooted indoors, these overwinter               
in a bright window and give plants for next year's garden.                      
                                                                                
* If you enjoy growing wild flowers, now is the time to collect                 
seed for your garden from many of the summer flowering types.                   
                                                                                
* When using a cold frame to extend your harvest season, be                     
sure to close the top for frosty nights to protect the plants                   
from the cold. When the sun comes out the next morning and the                  
air warms, you can open the cold frame again.                                   
                                                                                
* Fall is a good time for planting. Researchers have concluded                  
that the last safe planting date is approximately 4 weeks before                
soil temperatures fall to 40 degrees F which inhibits root                      
development. For plants which are marginally hardy and hard-to-                 
transplant, this date should be early.                                          
                                                                                
* Wood ashes contain phosphorous, calcium and potassium and                     
can be placed on garden, flower beds, or spread on lawn, but                    
don't overdo it. Avoid using wood ashes on acid-loving plants as                
it raises the pH.                                                               
                                                                                
* A green manure or cover crop improves water infiltration,                     
reduces soil erosion, reduces nutrient leaching and promotes                    
the growth of microorganisms. Annual rye can be sown at the                     
rate of 15.2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. during September and October.                
A light fertilization with 1-2 lbs. of 5-10-10 will generally                   
increase plant growth.                                                          
                                                                                
* The tomato variety Long Keeper has received high acclaim by                   
home gardeners who have successfully kept fruit past the first                  
of the new year in parts of Virginia.                                           
                                                                                
* Before moving your houseplants back inside from their outdoor                 
summer, take time to wash your windows. Not only will it be                     
easier without plants in the way, it will make considerably                     
more light available and help your plants adjust to their new                   
lower light regime.                                                             
                                                                                
* Don't wait for frost warnings to move your plants indoors. Tem-               
peratures of 50 degrees F or lower can damage many tropical                     
houseplants.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Dried beans and peas are among the easiest crops to store. They               
will keep for many months in a cool, dry location. Control                      
weevils before storage by placing in a freezer at 0 degrees F or                
lower for 4 days, or heat to 180 degrees F for at least 15                      
minutes. Following this treatment, place the dry beans or peas in               
a tight container and place in a cool, dry place.                               
                                                                                
* Winter type pumpkins and squash such as acorn, butternut and                  
spaghetti may keep for several months in a cool, medium-dry                     
basement, garage or tool shed. Allow the fruit to ripen fully                   
on the vine, and cure in the sun to form a hard rind. Harvest                   
before frost, and leave a piece of stem on each when they are                   
cut from the vine. If the floor is damp, place pumpkins and                     
squash on shelves to reduce the possibility of rot. The best                    
storage temperature is about 60 degrees F.                                      
                                                                                
* Sweet potatoes will keep for several months in a medium dry                   
basement. Handle sweet potatoes very carefully to avoid bruising                
or cutting. Cure for about 10 days at 80 degrees F or for 20                    
days at 70 degrees F to dry and toughen the skin. This can be                   
done near the furnace in your basement. Store under medium dry                  
conditions at 60 degrees F, or as close to this temperature                     
as possible. Sort your sweet potatoes carefully every few weeks                 
and remove any that may start to decay.                                         
                                                                                
* Hot peppers will keep best if stored after they are dry. Pull                 
the plants and hang them up, or pick the peppers and thread                     
on a string. Store in any cool, dry place.                                      
                                                                                
* Green tomatoes may be stored for 4 to 6 weeks and will gradual-               
ly ripen to a nice red color. The best storage conditions are                   
about 60 degrees F and a moderately moist atmosphere. Harvest the               
tomatoes in a firm, green condition before frost. Remove the                    
stems to prevent puncturing other fruits. Wash dirt off rather                  
than wiping, which may cause skin scratches which will be                       
susceptible to decay. If the basement is quite dry, the tomatoes                
may be placed in film bags, or film-lined boxes to increase the                 
humidity. Sort the fruit every week to remove those which ripen                 
or start to decay.                                                              
                                                                                
* Dig out the list of spring flowering bulbs you made last spring               
and start getting them into the ground so you can be among the                  
blissful rather than wistful as next winter snows begin to                      
melt. If you did not get a list started last spring, a few bulbs                
to consider for starters are Snowflake, Glory-of-the-Snow,                      
Snowdrops, and Winter Aconite.                                                  
                                                                                
* Divide lilies-of-the-valley. Mix bone meal in the soil before                 
replanting.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Plant new Madonna lilies as soon as they arrive. Do not plant                 
deeper than two inches from top of bulb to ground level. Set                    
bulb in sand.                                                                   
                                                                                
* As the nights become cool, caladiums will begin to lose leaves.               
Dig up, dry, and store in a warm, dry place to prevent rot. This                
space can be replanted with Christmas peppers or Jerusalem                      
cherry plants which have been grown from seed in pots sunk in the               
vegetable garden, or transplant mums that have been grown to                    
flower size in the vegetable garden.                                            
                                                                                
* Mums can be transplanted while in bloom which makes them useful               
for instant landscapes in early Autumn. Dig plants carefully                    
after thorough watering, retaining as much of the root system as                
feasible. Gently loosen a small amount of soil from the outer                   
soil depth. Water thoroughly to set plants in. As with any                      
transplanting, it is best to do this in early morning or late                   
evening when temperatures are cool. Monitor plants carefully for                
several days for wilting, and shade briefly during the hotter                   
periods of the day, if necessary.                                               
                                                                                
* For early blooms in May and June next year, certain annuals can               
be sown now, including larkspur, nigella, calendula, Shirley                    
poppies, annual scabious, and coreopsis. Sown in the open, they                 
should be well established by the time the cold weather comes.                  
                                                                                
* Plant tubers of both garden and tree peonies in September or                  
early October so they will have time to become established in the               
soil before winter. Dig a hole 18 inches across and 18 inches                   
deep for each tuber. Space the holes so that the plants will be                 
at least 3 feet apart. Pile loose soil at the side of the hole                  
and break up all lumps.                                                         
                                                                                
* If pesky seedlings of woody plants, such as elm or hackberry,                 
are found growing in your hedge, remove them as soon as possible.               
If left too long, they will take over and leaves gaps in the                    
hedge when they are finally removed.                                            
                                                                                
* Check grapevines for mummied berries - victims of black rot.                  
Pick them and dispose of (do not compost) before they can spread                
the disease.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Rake up leaves, twigs, and fruit from crabapple trees and                     
dispose of them in the trash to help control scab.                              
                                                                                
* Pot up chives, parsley and other herbs to extend the growing                  
season in the house.                                                            
                                                                                
* Harvesting guidelines: PEARS should be picked at the hard ripe                
stage, and allowed to finish ripening off the tree. The base                    
color of yellow pears should change from green to yellow as                     
the fruit approaches maturity. APPLES should separate readily                   
from the trees when lifted gently upwards.                                      
                                                                                
* The gardening season can be extended well into the winter.                    
Lettuce, cress, radishes, endive, and spinach can all be grown in               
the well-known structure, the coldframe. In cooler weather,                     
insulate the outer sides of the box with banked soil or sawdust.                
Cover the top with sacks stuffed with straw or other insulation                 
during cold nights.                                                             
                                                                                
* Fall is usually cool and moist and a good time to plant trees                 
and shrubs. Research has shown that roots will continue to grow                 
until the soil freezes, which is about Thanksgiving. This is                    
true for both evergreens and deciduous plants. The best time for                
lawn construction is from mid-August to mid-September for                       
cool-season grasses. Seeding at this time allows for a long                     
fall growing period, when temperatures and moisture conditions                  
are most favorable and weed competition is at a minimum. By the                 
time cold weather arrives, the grass is fairly well established                 
and ready to grow and thicken early the following spring.                       
                                                                                
* Perennial flowers which will bloom in September include:                      
Biglow sneezeweed (Helenium biglovi), hardy asters, hardy                       
chrysanthemums, showy stonecrop (Sedum spectabile), false                       
dragonhead (Physostegia virginiana), bigleaf sea lavender                       
(Limonium latifolium), and great azure sage (Salvia pitcheri).                  
                                                                                
* Spray cabbage, broccoli, and caulifower with BT (Bacillus                     
thuringiensis) once a week through harvest to avoid cabbage                     
loopers.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Allow plants to finish the summer growth cycle in a normal                    
manner. Never encourage growth with heavy applications of                       
fertilizer or excessive pruning at this time. Plants will                       
quickly delay their hardening process that has already begun in                 
anticipation of winter several months ahead. New growth can be                  
injured by an early freeze.                                                     
                                                                                
* Harvest fall-bearing and/or everbearing raspberries as quickly                
as they ripen. Frequent harvesting helps to reduce insect and                   
disease problems. Prune out canes (or portions of canes on                      
everbearers) that have borne fruit immediately after harvest.                   
                                                                                
* There are several methods that can be used to determine when                  
apples are ready to be picked. The first is to hold a fruit                     
gently in the palm of your hand. Then, slowly lift up on the                    
fruit. If the stem easily separates from the tree, it is ripe.                  
Second, the base color, the side of the fruit nearest the trunk,                
of many varieties changes from a darker to a lighter shade of                   
green as the fruit reaches maturity. A third test is to cut                     
a fruit in half to check the color of its seeds. Brown seeds                    
indicate ripeness or maturity.                                                  
                                                                                
* Establish new perennial flower beds; dig, divide, and replant                 
overcrowded beds of bearded iris, cannas, daylilies, violets,                   
and shasta daisies. Spread a liberal amount of organic matter                   
and bulb fertilizer evenly over the area. Mix this into the                     
soil at least 6 to 8 inches deep. Space divisions at least                      
1 foot apart in all directions so that root competition will                    
not be a problem for several year.                                              
                                                                                
* The disease, powdery mildew, becomes more abundant following                  
periods of cool nights and warm, dry days. Infected plants                      
such as crepe myrtle, lilac, zinnias, and azalea are covered                    
with a white powdery growth. Benomyl is a fungicide which can                   
be used for control of powdery mildew.                                          
                                                                                
* Dig gladiolus corms when the leaves yellow. The tops should                   
be cut off 1/2 inch above the top of the corm immediately after                 
digging. After digging, dry the corms (about 10-20 days),                       
separate the large corms from the smaller ones and store them in                
damp peat moss at 40-45 degrees F where there is good air                       
circulation.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Perennial phlox should be divided about every third or fourth                 
year. Divide big clumps of perennial phlox into thirds. Early                   
fall and early spring are the best times to plant and transplant                
them.                                                                           
                                                                                
* The National Chrysanthemum Society is currently operating out                 
of Virginia. Contact B. L. Markham, 2612 Beverly Road, Roanoke,                 
VA 24015 for information on this group.                                         
                                                                                
* Get in a supply of sand (without salt) for the winter. It                     
comes in handy not only for walks and driveways, but also for                   
making soil mixtures and for storing root crops.                                
                                                                                
* Keep basil, parsley, mint, sage, balm, and borage producing                   
by pinching out the seed pods. Herbs can be used fresh, frozen                  
in airtight bags, or dried. Wait until the dew has dried and                    
cut a few stems, tie a string around this little bouquet and                    
hang in a cool, dry place until completely dry. Crumble and                     
place in a jar for use during the winter.                                       
                                                                                
* Onions should be mature now. Dig on any airy day and store                    
in a shady, dry place, in mesh bags or braided into a rope and                  
hung.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Garlic is harvested when the tops die down. To prepare garlic                 
for long term storage, cure the bulbs for four to six weeks                     
in a warm, dry, shady location where there is very good air                     
circulation. Pile bulbs no more than two to three deep. After                   
curing, store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated spot.                             
                                                                                
* To harvest sunflower seeds, wait until the seeds are fully                    
grown and firm, then cut the head leaving one foot of stem. Hang                
it in a dry, airy spot to finish ripening. Do not store sun-                    
flowers one on top of the other, or they may rot.                               
                                                                                
* Autumn is a good time for improving your garden soil. Add                     
manure, compost, wood chips and leaves to increase the organic                  
matter content. Before adding lime to your soil, have your soil                 
tested to determine if your garden needs lime.                                  
                                                                                
* Houseplants should be moved into the house when night tempera-                
tures hit 50 degrees F.                                                         
                                                                                
* Fall is a good time to plant trees around your home. According                
to the U.S. Forest Service, lawn trees increase the real estate                 
value of your home by 5-7%. In addition to this economic advan-                 
tage, trees provide erosion control, air cooling, wildlife                      
shelter, and air pollution reduction.                                           
                                                                                
* Needle leaf or cone-bearing evergreens can be moved now if you                
want to transplant them. Move plants with ample rootball.                       
                                                                                
* Generally, it is best for amateur arborists not to move                       
deciduous trees before their leaves fall.                                       
                                                                                
* Remember to stake and wire newly planted trees. Use rubber                    
hose around the guy wires to protect the trunk. Remember to                     
take the supports and stakes out in a few months once the tree                  
is established.                                                                 
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
MINIBULBS IN THE LANDSCAPE                                                      
                                                                                
Start planning your fall bulb planting. Try some of the small                   
spring flowering bulbs this year. They will add new charm and                   
beauty to your landscape. Dwarf types are ideal for rock gardens,               
at the edge of the terrace, or in front of the shrub border.                    
                                                                                
Consider miniature daffodils especially useful if your garden is                
small. They need only a few square inches of space for each bulb,               
so you may have a collection of several varieties or species in                 
a few square feet of space.                                                     
                                                                                
Hoop-Petticoat daffodil is a favorite miniature with many garden-               
ers. The trumpet or corona is long and cone shaped, and resembles               
hoop-skirt dresses for which it was names. Yellow and white                     
varieties are available.                                                        
                                                                                
Several of the small daffodil varieties have a typical long                     
trumpet like the standard types, but produce flowers only six or                
eight inches tall. Some interesting varieties include February                  
Gold, February Silver, Little Beauty and Lobularis.                             
                                                                                
If you prefer the cluster flower type of daffodils with small                   
cups you may want to try Baby Moon, Tenuior, or Minnow. These                   
miniatures daffodils will give blooms for several weeks in the                  
garden, and are useful for small flower arrangements.                           
                                                                                
Include some of the dwarf species type tulips in your collection                
of spring flowering bulbs. T. Batalinii produces fine yellow                    
flowers which are seven inches tall. T. pulchella `Violacea' has                
beautiful red-violet blooms which have long lasting quality, and                
often occur two on a stem. T. praestans `Fusilier' is one of the                
brightest red tulips, with several flowers per stem.                            
                                                                                
Don't forget Kaufmanniana (water lily) tulips. This dwarf                       
species produces flowers about two weeks before other tulips, and               
is useful when planted in front of standard size daffodils.                     
                                                                                
Hardy anemones also called windflowers are among the first to                   
bloom in the spring. These daisy-like flowers are available in                  
various shades of blue, red, pin, and white. They vary in height                
from six to twelve inches. The plants are easily grown in                       
well-drained soil and will bloom from March through May.                        
                                                                                
Several types of hyacinth should be present in delicate bulb                    
borders. Scilla siberica or Forest Hyacinth will produce small                  
blue spikes about eight inches tall and bloom very early along                  
with crocus. Scilla campanulata, the Woods Hyacinth or Spanish                  
Bluebell, blooms later along with Darwin tulips. Blue, pink and                 
white varieites are available.                                                  
                                                                                
Muscari or Grape Hyacinth is an old favorite which blooms as                    
crocus fades. Blue varieties seem to be the most popular, but                   
white ones are also available. Plumosum is an unusual form of                   
Muscari which has feathery plumes of violet colored flowers.                    
                                                                                
Consult fall bulb catalogs for pictures and descriptions of the                 
many dwarf and standard species which are available. Order your                 
selections within the next few weeks to allow adequate time for                 
planting before soil freezes.                                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
FALL BLOOMING PERENNIALS                                                        
                                                                                
Perennial beds and borders can provide floral interest in                       
autumn if plants which bloom in fall are incorporated into them.                
The plants featured below are hardy perennials which you will                   
want to try in your landscape for late season color.                            
                                                                                
Fall Asters                                                                     
Fall asters, as the name implies, bloom largely during autumn.                  
Your garden can break into shades of pink and blue with varieties               
of fall asters, also called Michaelmas daisies. Use masses of                   
white varieties between blue cultivars to heighten perception of                
the blue color.                                                                 
                                                                                
Both tall and low varieties bring color to a perennial border                   
often lacking at this time of year. Taller varieties (up to 6')                 
may be planted to hide fences or as a background for lower                      
perennials. You may want to stake tall varieties. Plant shorter                 
asters (as low as 6") in low borders and reock gardens. Asters                  
are at home anywhere from a naturalistic planting or to along                   
the side of a barn or garage.                                                   
                                                                                
Divide large clumps in spring and reset plants in your border.                  
Asters grow best in full sun, but will bloom brightly in partial                
shade. Plants grow rapidly in almost any soil.                                  
                                                                                
Hardy Chrysanthemums                                                            
Chrysanthemum is such a long name that these plants are usually                 
called mums. Although generally said to be hardy, they do not                   
always live through a hard winter. Mums sold as potted plants                   
are often not hardy. If you can't get chrysanthemum divisions                   
which have overwintered successfully in your locality from                      
friends, buy cultivars that have proven hardy in northern                       
nurseries.                                                                      
                                                                                
To increase the plants' ability to overwinter, mums should be cut               
back to within a few inches of the ground after a hard freeze.                  
Evergreen boughs placed over trimmed plants is a good winter                    
covering.                                                                       
                                                                                
Mums are at their best where autumns are long and warm. They are                
easy to grow and will flower for many weeks. They come in all                   
colors except blue. Varieties vary widely in height, flower size                
and form, and time of bloom. Low growing "cushion" mums average                 
15" in height and require the least work.                                       
                                                                                
For maximum bushiness, all but the cushion types are pinched back               
until mid-July. Pinch out the soft growing tip of each shoot when               
it reaches 4-6 inches in length. If you have a lot of plants, use               
garden shears to top them.                                                      
                                                                                
When plants get crowded in 2-3 years, divide mums in spring and                 
reset them about 2 feet apart. Cushion mums are best divided                    
yearly. Mums like fertile soil. Mix rotted manure or fertilizer                 
with the soil when you set the plants.                                          
                                                                                
Shasta Daisies                                                                  
Shasta daisies are really a type of chrysanthemum. They do best                 
in areas with cool summers and rich, moist, well-drained soil.                  
Light shade is helpful in hot locations.                                        
                                                                                
White blooms with yellow centers grace the plants in summer and                 
fall. Remove spent flower heads to keep blossoms coming. Fall                   
varieties can be kept bushy by pinching back or shearing as is                  
done for other mums. This produces smaller flowers in greater                   
number. Divide plants every other spring for best growth.                       
                                                                                
Fall Blooming Anemones                                                          
Fall blooming anemones, collectively known as Japanese anemones,                
put on their floral show from late summer until frost. Like                     
early season anemones, Japanese anemones display a vivid profu-                 
sion of mauve, rose, pink and white blossoms. Flowers are                       
borne on leafless stalks 15" to 4' tall. Blooms last a long time                
on the plant, but flowers are unreliable as cut flowers.                        
                                                                                
Japanese anemones are hardy perennials. A light organic mulch                   
such as shredded bark will protect the roots in cold areas in                   
winter. In rich, sandy loam, anemones spread and can be used in                 
naturalizing. In areas with heavier soil, they tend to remain in                
clumps. Well-drained garden soil amended with peat or leaf mold                 
provides a satisfactory root environment. Plants prefer a                       
slightly acid soil.                                                             
                                                                                
A sheltered location with filtered sunlight is ideal for Japanese               
anemones, but where summers are cool, they can take full sun.                   
Consider using them as border plants, in rock gardens, and in                   
open soil near deciduous trees. The roots dislike being disturbed               
so the original site should be carefully chosen. Be aware that                  
it may take Japanese anemones several years to become established               
and display their best bloom. Divisions should be taken only when               
clumps become crowded.                                                          
                                                                                
Black-eyed Susans                                                               
Black-eyed Susans are also known as yellow coneflowers and                      
Rudbeckias. The species, Rudbeckia fulgida is one of the best                   
late blooming perennials. It holds golden yellow daisy-like                     
blooms for several weeks. The dark central cone remains attrac-                 
tive after the petals fall.                                                     
                                                                                
Perennial Black-eyed Susans are long-lived. They grow well in                   
any moderately fertile soil. In light, moist soil, they will grow               
fast and require division every few years. Most varieties of                    
Rudbeckias grow from 2-3 feet tall. `Golstrum' is a compact                     
cultivar with large flowers. It will not come true to seed;                     
propagate by division.                                                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
INDOOR BULB GARDENS                                                             
                                                                                
You can take the chill out of the upcoming winter months with an                
indoor garden of sunny tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and other                   
spring-flowering bulbs. A simple procedure called "forcing' makes               
it possible to enjoy spring blooms in winter. If you start the                  
bulbs in late September, blossoms will begin to appear in                       
January. You can have a sequence of bulbs in bloom through                      
March by potting them at two-week intervals through the end of                  
November.                                                                       
                                                                                
It takes about 18 weeks from the time the bulbs are potted until                
they burst into bloom. They must spend at least 13 of those                     
weeks in a simulated winter environment. A cool (35 to 48                       
degrees F) location such as a basement, unheated closet, attic or               
garage will do. During this "cooling" period bulbs develop roots.               
                                                                                
To begin the forcing process, select a container that is twice                  
the depth of the bulb and has a bottom drainage hole. A clay or                 
plastic flower pot or a ceramic planter are excellent. If you                   
use a new clay pot, soak it overnight in water to allow it to                   
absorb moisture. Whatever container you use, be sure it is clean                
inside and out before planting the bulbs.                                       
                                                                                
Bulbs need light, well-drained media. A combination of equal                    
parts potting soil, peat moss and sand is recommended. No                       
fertilizer is necessary.                                                        
                                                                                
Place a few flat pebbles or pieces of broken clay pot over the                  
drainage hole and fill the container half way with media. If                    
you're potting tulip bulbs, position them so that the flat side                 
is facing the side of the pot. Plant hyacinths, daffodils and                   
other bulbs upright with the tips of the bulbs level with the                   
container rim. In both cases, gently tamp the soil firmly around                
the base of the bulbs.                                                          
                                                                                
After the bulbs are in place, add more potting media. Cover small               
bulbs completely, but leave the tips of larger bulbs exposed.                   
Water the soil thoroughly and let it drain. Label the container                 
with the flower type, variety, color, and potting date. Place                   
it in a cool location and water the soil regularly to keep the                  
media moist but not waterlogged.                                                
                                                                                
After approximately 10 weeks at 48 degrees F, roots will begin                  
to grow out of the drainage hole and light green shoots will                    
emerge from the bulbs. This is your cue to move the container                   
to a mild (60 to 65 degreee F), sunny room. In a matter of 20 to                
25 days the buds will open. You can prolong the life of the                     
flowers by keeping them away from radiators, heaters and drafts.                
                                                                                
When bulbs have finished flowering, remove the faded flowers but                
not the foliage. Continue watering the potted bulbs until the                   
ground can be dug in spring. Then plant the bulbs outdoors. Bulbs               
that have been forced will not bloom again indoors, but flowers,                
especially daffodils, have been known to bloom the following                    
spring in the garden.                                                           
                                                                                
Some bulb varieties suggested for forcing are tulips, hyacinths,                
daffodils, and minor bulbs such as crocus, Iris reticulata, and                 
muscari.                                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
BROAD-LEAVED EVERGREEN GROUND COVER SHRUBS                                      
                                                                                
Some low growing, broad-leaved evergreen shrubs function well as                
ground covers. In addition they provide unique textural effects                 
in the landscape. Many of these plants display attractive                       
flowers and fruits. Consider the following broad leafed ever-                   
greens as ground covers:                                                        
                                                                                
For sun:                                                                        
Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) is a hardy native evergreen                 
which ranges over the cooler temperate areas of the northern                    
hemisphere. It is a trailing shrub with slender branches which                  
bear shiny oval evergreen leaves. Small urn-shaped, pink or white               
flowers appear in April or May. Small brilliant red fruits                      
develop in mid-summer and persist on the plants.                                
                                                                                
Bearberry forms an excellent carpet in gardens in full or                       
partial sun. It looks graceful draping over slopes or rock                      
faces. Plants need good drainage but thrive in infertile soil.                  
Bearberry also exhibits good salt tolerance. Pruning and fertil-                
izing is seldom necessary. In Virginia, bearberry is suited to                  
mountainous regions. Purchase container grown nursery stock for                 
establishing the planting.                                                      
                                                                                
Creeping Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens) is native to a                     
large area of the eastern United States. It is a slow growing                   
evergreen shrub three to six inches tall. It spreads by creeping                
roots which produce upright shoots. These shoots carry a cluster                
of dark, showy, oval leaves about an inch in length. Leaves turn                
reddish in winter. Flowers which appear in summer are nodding and               
pinkish. They form bright red, round fruits.                                    
                                                                                
Gaultherias a have strong aromatic odor and taste. In the past                  
leaves have been used as a source of wintergreen oil. This                      
native is adapatable to sunny as well as shady areas and is an                  
excellent foreground cover for larger shrubs. Its soil require-                 
ments are moist, acidic soil high in organic matter. Pot grown                  
nursery plants transplanted in spring or early fall are recom-                  
mended in order to assure a dependable introduction to the                      
garden.                                                                         
                                                                                
In shade:                                                                       
Dwarf varieties of Oregon grapeholly (Mahonia aquifolium), a                    
native of the western Pacific area of the U.S., can be considered               
for shady locations where a taller evergreen groundcover with a                 
coarse texture is desired. The varieties 'Compactum' and 'Mayham                
Strain' grow up to 2' tall. The rate of growth is quite slow.                   
                                                                                
Dwarf mahonias have proven to be excellent ground covers in deep                
shade. Avoid hot, dry sites and windy areas. Plants may become                  
partially browned by severe winter weather, but new foliage                     
rapidly replaces much of the damage. The plant is very attractive               
in April with its fragrant, rich yellow flowers in dense terminal               
clusters. Blue-black berries are produced later. The shrubs bear                
glossy, holly-like foliage. Both these traits account for the                   
common name, Oregon-grapeholly.                                                 
                                                                                
Other western dwarf species, casades mahonia (M. nervosa) and                   
creeping mahonia (M. repens) are too slow growing to be classifi-               
ed as dense ground covers, but they can be very attractive for                  
limited use. Cascades mahonia readily reaches 16" in height;                    
creeping mahonia grows several inches lower. Both bear yellow                   
flowers in spring.                                                              
                                                                                
Low growing, broad-leaved evergreen shrubs may not be readily                   
available at your favorite nursery or local garden center. Some                 
nurseries will special order plants for their custumers. Alterna-               
tively, you may order special plants by mail.                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
HOBBY GREENHOUSES                                                               
                                                                                
Why stop enjoying gardening just because cold weather stops                     
plant growth outdoors? Continue your gardening activities all                   
winter in a greenhouse. There is still time to construct a                      
greenhouse facility this fall. Such a structutre will provide                   
pleasure during the months ahead and will be a valuable addition                
to your property.                                                               
                                                                                
You can easily plan a greenhouse to fit your budget. A few                      
shelves in a dormer window may be installed for less than 100                   
dollars. For a slightly larger amount, you may enclose a side                   
porch to secure a sunroom type conservatory.                                    
                                                                                
A lean-to or small plastic greenhouse may be constructed for a                  
few hundred dollars. A more elaborate glass greenhouse may cost                 
several thousand dollars. Save money by recycling building                      
materials and using standard sizes of lumber and glazing.                       
                                                                                
An attached greenhouse is best located on the south or west side                
of the house. It should be in full sun and not shaded by trees.                 
If it is a small structure, heaters are available to keep the                   
structure warm. The floor of your greenhouse could be crushed                   
stone or gravel on packed earth; or it may be brick or concrete.                
All are low maintenance, low cost materials.                                    
                                                                                
Plants in a greenhouse require daily attention to provide water                 
and a suitable temperature. You may arrange to leave for periods                
of one to several weeks if you enlist the aid of a friend to do                 
the watering and watching but automatic controls for ventilators,               
heating systems and watering may be more reliable.                              
                                                                                
Spring flowering bulbs are an ideal winter crop for the home                    
greenhouse. Following a period of cold storage, they may be                     
placed under the benches to start growth. When leaves appear,                   
place them in full sun until they bloom.                                        
                                                                                
Potted flowering plants are easy to grow if you have a green-                   
house. Many dwarf annuals can be grown in this way. Try mari-                   
gold, calendula, geranium and nasterium. Plan to use at least                   
part of one bench for cut flowers, such as snapdragons, carna-                  
tions and chrysanthemums, if you enjoy displaying flowers in your               
home.                                                                           
                                                                                
A greenhouse is an excellent place in which to propagate favorite               
shrubs. For example, you may start azaleas from seeds in spring,                
or root semihardwood cuttings from your landscape plants in                     
midsummer. A simple, automated misting system which can be                      
constructed inexpensively will aid plant propagation.                           
                                                                                
You may also grow delicious vegetables in your greenhouse. Look                 
in seed catalogs for varieties suited for greenhouse growing.                   
Tomatoes and cucumbers are two crops easy to grow in a warm                     
greenhouse. Tomatoes require very little space if trained to a                  
single stem on a strong cord. You can raise fine cucumbers on a                 
trellis. In an unheated greenhouse, you can force rhubarb and                   
grow lettuce, Swiss chard and other hardy greens.                               
                                                                                
One of the most important reasons for having a home greenhouse                  
is to produce flower and vegetable transplants in spring for your               
garden. Greenhouse growing allows gardeners a larger choice of                  
varieties than those offered for sale by nurseries. Bedding                     
plants may also be sold as a source of additional income. Some                  
easy to grow transplants are cabbage, broccoli, tomatoes, salvia,               
basil and statice.                                                              
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
SEPTEMBER 1986 QUESTION BOX                                                     
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan, Horticulture                     
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Special-               
ist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has                   
been developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                   
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
September 1986 Topics:                                                          
                                                                                
Fertilizer/Pesticide Combination Products              25 lines                 
Preparing to Plant a Hedge                             71 lines                 
Why "Hardy" Plants May Fail                            35 lines                 
Vegetable Marrow                                       23 lines                 
Onion Sets Set Seed                                    26 lines                 
Ferns for Sunny Spots                                  27 lines                 
Transplanting Tips for Woody Ornamentals               38 lines                 
Perennial Tulips                                       28 lines                 
Snowbell Trees                                         25 lines                 
                                                                                
                                                                                
I would like to save some time on yard work by buying some lawn                 
fertilizer which also contains pesticides. Do you recommend these               
duo-purpose products?                                                           
                                                                                
The major reason for buying a fertilizer combined with a pesti-                 
cide is convenience. It is very convenient to combine everything                
you need in one application, but it is also very expensive.                     
Beside cost, the other problem with fertilizer/pesticide combina-               
tion products is that the timing for a fertilizer application                   
often does not coincide with the appearance of a disease or an                  
insect problem.                                                                 
                                                                                
In the case of a number of turfgrass diseases, the primary cause                
of disease infestation is improper fertilization. A fertilizer-                 
insecticide combination can do an adequate job of controlling a                 
turf pest plus give the grass "a shot in the arm" and help it in                
its recovery if the amount of fertilizer and timing are appropri-               
ate.                                                                            
                                                                                
Remember that the time for fertilizing cool season grasses is in                
the fall while warm season grasses should be fertilized in                      
summer. The time to control different pests varies widely. Also,                
never use a fertilizer/pesticide product on a garden. It may                    
contain chemicals harmful if ingested and it may kill crop                      
plants and flowers. Contact your local Cooperative Extension                    
Service for more detailed information.                                          
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
We are considering surrounding our property with a hedge. We have               
seen some hedges which look good but many which look thin and                   
poor after some years. How can we maintain a good looking hedge?                
                                                                                
Establishment of a deciduous hedge begins with the selection                    
of nursery stock. Choose young trees or shrubs one to two feet                  
high, preferably with multiple stems. Privet, Tartarian honey-                  
suckle and winged euonymus are popular deciduous hedge plants.                  
Consider arborvitae, hemlock or yew if you want a needle-leaved,                
evergreen hedge. Broad-leaved evergreens such as English holly                  
and boxwood make good hedges although they are slow growing.                    
                                                                                
A well-shaped hedge is no accident. It must be trained from the                 
beginning. When planting, cut deciduous plants back to six or                   
eight inches. This will induce low branching. Late in the first                 
season or before bud-break in the next, prune off half of the new               
growth. In the following year, again trim off half.                             
                                                                                
In the third year, start shaping. Trim to the desired shape                     
before the hedge grows to the desired size. Never allow plants to               
grow untrimmed to the final height before shearing. By that time                
it will be too late to get maximum branching at the base. Lower                 
branches must not be allowed to be shaded out. After the hedge                  
has reached the dimensions desired, trim closely in order to keep               
within chosen bounds.                                                           
                                                                                
Evergreen nursery stock for hedging need not be as small as                     
deciduous material and should not be cut back when planted. Trim                
lightly after a year or two. Start shaping as individual plants                 
merge into a continuous hedge. Do not trim too closely because                  
many needle-bearing evergreens do not easily generate new growth                
from old wood.                                                                  
                                                                                
Before shaping, some thought should be given to the shape of the                
untrimmed plant. Hedges are often shaped with flat tops and                     
vertical sides. This unnatural shaping is seldom successful. The                
best shape, as far as the plant is concerned, is a natural form,                
rounded or slightly pointed top with sides slanting to a wide                   
base.                                                                           
                                                                                
After plants have been pruned initially to induce branching at                  
the base, low branching must be maintained by trimming the top                  
narrower than the bottom, so that sunlight can reach all of the                 
leaves on the plant. Rounded or peaked tops aid in the shedding                 
of snow, which if left, may break branches.                                     
                                                                                
These questions often arise: "How often should this hedge be                    
trimmed?" and "When should I trim?". Answers depend to some                     
extent on how formal an appearance is desired. Excessive untrimm-               
ed growth will kill leaves beneath, and also pull the hedge out                 
of shape. In general, trim before growth exceeds one foot.                      
                                                                                
Hedges of slow-growing plants such as boxwood need trimming                     
sooner, but do not shear. Shearing boxwood results in plants with               
a thin layer of leaves on the outside of plants. Boxwood shrubs                 
should be pruned by thinning out the top half of the plant and                  
cutting back branches to retain the desired height.                             
                                                                                
In mountainous areas of Virginia, yews and other evergreens may                 
need shearing only once annually and then not before July. In                   
milder areas, two or even three shearings may be necessary.                     
Deciduous material should be trimmed earlier than July, but after               
the spring flush of new growth, and will often need to be trimmed               
once or twice more. Frequency depends on the kind of shrub,                     
season, and degree of neatness desired.                                         
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
Sometimes I loose landscape plants over winter which I believe                  
are "hardy". Other times the plants survive but turn brown or do                
not flower as expected. What can be done?                                       
                                                                                
Winter injury can occur to hardy plants if temperatures are                     
extremely low or if unseasonably low temperatures occur early in                
fall or late in spring. If temperatures drop too low during                     
winter, entire trees of some species are killed by freezing and                 
splitting plant cells and tissue. Planting hardy varieties is the               
best way to lessen losses due to cold temperatures.                             
                                                                                
Winter injury may also occur on hardy plants because of desiccat-               
ion or drying out. Plants need water during winter. When the soil               
is frozen, movement of water into plants is severely restricted.                
On a windy winter day, broadleaf evergreens can become water-de-                
ficient; the leaves or needles then turn brown. You may prevent                 
winter injury caused by desiccation by supplying your plants with               
sufficient moisture as they go into winter and watering them                    
during mild periods in winter. Try to locate new plantings of                   
broad-leaved evergreens in wind sheltered locations. Wind breaks                
may be constructed to decrease water loss from leaves of ever-                  
greens already located in windy locations.                                      
                                                                                
Site selection in regards to soil pH, drainage and light also                   
affects a plant's hardiness. Locate plants where their cultural                 
requirements are met, or modify the area to meet their needs.                   
                                                                                
Wide variations in winter temperatures can cause premature bud                  
break in some plants and consequent bud freezing. There is                      
nothing which can be done to delay bud break if it is caused by                 
unseasonably warm temperatures but this may also occur if plants                
are set near a stone wall or other heat retaining surface. Avoid                
placing early blooming plants in these locations. Choose late                   
blooming cultivars when available if your plants often fail to                  
bloom in spring.                                                                
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
I have seen a squash called vegetable marrow being sold at a                    
roadside stand. What is it used for? How do I know when it's                    
ripe?                                                                           
                                                                                
A "new" summer squash vegetable marrow is appearing in the                      
markets. Seedsmen are beginning to offer it to gardeners, too.                  
                                                                                
Vegetable marrow has long been popular in Europe and Canada but                 
it's hardly know in the U.S. Marrows have a delicate flavor and                 
non-string, melting texture. They're also as easy to grow and as                
prolific as any zucchini.                                                       
                                                                                
`White Bush', sometimes sold as `Long White', is the most popular               
variety. Its fruits, which should be harvested when 8" long, are                
oblong and faintly ribbed. The skin is creamy white and the flesh               
pale green. `Green Bush' and `Long Green Striped' produce larger,               
green-skinned fruits.                                                           
                                                                                
Italian vegetable marrow or cocozelle has a dark green skin with                
light green stripes. It is an excellent squash for areas with                   
very hot summers. There's also cousa, a Middle Eastern marrow                   
sometimes called the Lebanese zucchini, which produces very                     
high yields of small pale green fruits on bushy plants.                         
                                                                                
__________                                                                      
                                                                                
In spring I put out onion sets. Now I have seed heads, no bulbs.                
Why is this?                                                                    
                                                                                
Onions are biennial that is under normal growing conditions they                
are vegetative the first year and produce seed the second. The                  
risk you run when buying sets is that the plants may behave as                  
though they are in their second year of growth and, rather than                 
bulbing, produce seed. When growing onions from sets, try to buy                
small sets (ones smaller than a dime). They will usually stay                   
vegetative. Onion sets may also produce seed if they have been                  
stored for long periods at 45 to 50 degrees F.                                  
                                                                                
Onions are sensitive to day length, forming a bulb when days                    
become longer than a certain critical day length. Southern and                  
western cultivars form bulbs in response to long days and short                 
nights. Northern cultivars bulb after midsummer, when days grow                 
shorter. This is why northern cultivars do not form bulbs                       
reliably in the South and southern cultivars bulb prematurely in                
the North. It is important to grow an onion that was developed                  
for your region. Your local Extension agent can provide a list of               
recommended cultivars.                                                          
                                                                                
Where the season is long, onions grown from seed bulb reliably.                 
Many gardeners report best success growing green or salad onions                
from sets and bulbs from seed or transplants. Some nurseries are                
beginning to carry onion transplants in spring. Alternatively you               
may want to try growing your own transplants.                                   
                                                                                
 ---------                                                                      
                                                                                
I have seen ferns growing in the sun. Are these special varie-                  
ties? How does on keep ferns looking healthy in the sun?                        
                                                                                
Ferns have a greater range of adaptability than most gardeners                  
realize. Contemporary landscaping trends have given new promi-                  
nence to these low maintenance perennials. They have become                     
popular in rock gardens, woodland settings, and foundation                      
plantings.                                                                      
                                                                                
Ferns will grow in sunny situtations provided they have ample                   
moisture. An organic mulch such as shredded bark helps maintain                 
soil moisture especially on sites with full open sun. A few                     
ferns which actually can thrive in full sunlight are maidenhair                 
spleenwort, Asplenium trichomanes, an evergreen; cinnamon fern,                 
Osmunda cinnamomea, useful for bold effects; and Christmas                      
fern, Polystichum acrostichoides which forms compact clumps 1-2'                
round. Other sun tolerant ferns are sensitive fern, Onoclea                     
sensibilis, up to 18" tall but can become invasive even in full                 
sun; hay-scented fern, Dennstaedtia puctilobula, 24" - adaptable                
to almost any soil and moisture conditions and an excellent                     
groundcover for rough banks; native climbing fern, Lygodium                     
palmatum, an semievergreen climbing species for bright, moist,                  
very acid situations; two cliff ferns, Woodsia ilvensis and W.                  
obtusa, very easy to grow on dry rock ledges or walls; ostrich                  
fern, Pteretis nodulosa, spreads too rampantly for small gardens                
but good for vast areas; and two for very moist locations,                      
Virginia chain fern, Woodwardia virginica, 36", and marsh fern,                 
Thelypteris palustris, 24".                                                     
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
How can I have better success transplanting woody ornamentals?                  
                                                                                
About 75% of woody plant failures are due to improper siting.                   
Careful analysis of the planting site can save much disappoint-                 
ment and replanting work and cost.                                              
                                                                                
Soil pH and drainage are vital considerations. Check the soil for               
rubble, depth and quality before siting plants. Have a soil test                
done and follow the recommendations provided with it. It is best                
to choose a species suited to the existing conditions than to try               
to modify the site.                                                             
                                                                                
To test soil drainage for ornamental plants, dig a hole two feet                
deep and fill it with water. Allow the water to drain away for 24               
hours then refill with water. If the water level drops at less                  
than 1/10" per hour after the second filling, there is a drainage               
problem. Improving drainage may be as easy as adding organic                    
matter to the soil if it is heavy clay; but if an impervious                    
hardpan is near the surface, a system of underground drainage                   
tiles may be necessary. Sometimes it is advisable to divert                     
runoff from other areas, or to plant on a mound or in a raised                  
bed instead.                                                                    
                                                                                
Changes in and interactions between sun, wind and temperature                   
through the seasons affect plant hardiness. In winter, for                      
example, sun plus wind can severely desiccate plants evergreen                  
plants. Remember that wind may be stronger in certain spots where               
it is deflected by walls.                                                       
                                                                                
Sunlight and heat reflected from structures and pavement may be                 
equally injurious in summer. Plants of borderline hardiness or                  
which bloom in early spring should never be planted on extra warm               
sites such as near a sunny, rock wall. Sensitive plants should                  
also not be located in low spots to which cold air drains.                      
                                                                                
The other 25% of plant losses are primarily due to poor planting                
technique. Few losses can be attributed to poor stock if plants                 
are purchased from a reliable nursery. When planting, be careful                
not to let roots dry out. Avoid planting too high or too low;                   
ask the nursery personnel or the Extension service for advice.                  
Often a small move or a minor change in the above or below ground               
environment can make the difference between a thriving plant and                
one that declines or fails.                                                     
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
Can you suggest a few varieties of tulips which will be reliably                
perennial?                                                                      
                                                                                
It can be difficult to get tulips to grow as perennials in the                  
Mid-south. Here is a list of the cultivars that naturalized best                
in trials at the University of Kentucky in order of bloom (early                
to late):                                                                       
                                                                                
Type					Cultivars                                                              
Kaufmaniana Fosteriana	'Hearts Delight'                                         
                         'Red Emperor' (a.k.a. 'Madame Lefeber')                
                         'White Emperor' (a.k.a. 'Purissima')                   
                                                                                
Greigii Darwin Hybrid    'Margaret Herbst'                                      
                         'Dawnglow'                                             
                         'Elizabeth Arden'                                      
                         'General Eisenhower'                                   
                         'Gudoshnik'                                            
                         'Jewel of Spring'                                      
                                                                                
Single Early             'General de Wet'                                       
                         'Princess Irene'                                       
                                                                                
Lily Flowered            'Jacqueline'                                           
                         'White Triumphator'                                    
                                                                                
Double Late              'Bonanza'                                              
                         'May Wonder'                                           
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
Please discuss the flowering trees called snowbells. Are these                  
native to Virginia?                                                             
                                                                                
Japanese snowbell (Styrax japonica) and fragrant snowbell (S.                   
obassia) are among the best spring-flowering small trees. Both                  
grow 20 to 30' tall, are hardy to -20 degrees F. They make fine                 
lawn or patio trees and also look good in a border of mixed                     
trees. Japanese snowbell tends to be multistemmed and spreading;                
fragrant snowbell is more columnar, with larger leaves, beautiful               
peeling bark, and longer racemes of fragrant bell-shaped white                  
flowers. Japanese snowbell is more readily available in nurseries               
than the fragrant species.                                                      
                                                                                
Two fine shrubby American species are coming into use in land-                  
scapes. American snowbell (S. americana) grows 6 - 8' tall and                  
is multistemmed and twiggy. It has the largest flowers of all the               
styraxes, beautiful white blossoms in June or July. The trees do                
best in cool, moist, slightly acid soil and can be found in damp                
lowlands and bordering streams. In its native habitat, the woods                
of the Southeast, American snowbell tends to grow rather open but               
in the garden, it is a handsome, dense shrub. A variety, S. a.                  
pulverulenta, is lower and more spreading and has hairy leaves.                 
                                                                                
Bigleaf snowbell (S. grandifolius) grow as tall as 12'. This                    
species, too, has beautiful, fragrant, white flowers and large,                 
dark fruits. Leaves may be as long as 6" to 7". Bigleaf snowbell                
is hardy to 0 degrees F. Trees have rarely been propagated by                   
nurseries. Wild specimens may be found along stream banks from                  
Virginia to Georgia.                                                            
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Monthly Notes for September, 1987                                               
                                                                                
Herbaceous Plants                                                               
                                                                                
* Sowing seeds of hardy annuals such as sweet alyssum, pinks and                
sweet peas will give the seedlings time to get established and                  
develop good root systems before the coldest part of winter. This               
gives them a head start on growth and flowering next spring.                    
                                                                                
* Other annuals that can be sown now, including larkspur,                       
nigella, calendula, Shirley poppies, annual scabious, and                       
coreopsis. Sown in the open, they should be well established by                 
the time the cold weather comes.                                                
                                                                                
* Dig prize gladiolus corms when the leaves yellow. The tops                    
should be cut off 1/2 inch above the top of the corm immediately                
after digging. After digging, dry the corms (about 10-20 days),                 
separate the large corms from the smaller ones and store them in                
damp peat moss at 40-45 degrees F where there is good air                       
circulation. In most parts of the state, glads will normally over               
winter without the need to dig them.                                            
                                                                                
* To harvest sunflower seeds, wait until the seeds are fully                    
grown and starting to take on a brownish tinge, then cut the head               
leaving one foot of stem. Hang it in a dry, airy spot. Do not                   
store sunflowers one on top of the other, or they may rot.                      
                                                                                
* Take cuttings of such annual bedding plants as begonias,                      
coleus, geraniums and impatiens. Rooted indoors, these overwinter               
in a bright window and give plants for next year's garden.                      
                                                                                
* Perennial flowers which will bloom in September include:                      
Biglow sneezeweed (Helenium Biglovii), hardy asters, hardy                      
chrysanthemums, showy stonecrop (Sedum spectabile), false                       
dragonhead (Physostegia virginiana), bigleaf sea lavender                       
(Limonium latifolium), and great azure sage (Salvia Pitcheri).                  
                                                                                
* Plant new Madonna lilies as soon as they arrive. Do not plant                 
deeper than one inches from top of bulb to ground level.                        
                                                                                
* Mums can be transplanted while in bloom which makes them useful               
for instant landscapes in early Autumn. Dig plants carefully                    
after thorough watering, retaining as much of the root system as                
feasible. Gently loosen a small amount of soil from the outer                   
soil depth. Water thoroughly to set plants in. As with any                      
transplanting, it is best to do this in early morning or late                   
evening when temperatures are cool. Monitor plants carefully for                
several days for wilting, and shade briefly during the hotter                   
periods of the day, if necessary.                                               
                                                                                
* Establish new perennial flower beds; dig, divide, and replant                 
overcrowded beds of bearded iris, cannas, daylilies, violets, and               
shasta daisies. Spread a liberal amount of organic matter and                   
bulb fertilizer evenly over the area. Mix this into the soil at                 
least 6 to 8 inches deep. Space divisions at least 1 foot apart                 
in all directions so that root competition will not be a problem                
for several year.                                                               
                                                                                
* Dig out the list of spring flowering bulbs you made last spring               
and start getting them into the ground so you can be among the                  
blissful rather than wistful as next winter snows begin to                      
melt. If you did not get a list started last spring, a few bulbs                
to consider for starters are Snowflake, Glory-of-the-Snow,                      
Snowdrops, and Winter Aconite.                                                  
                                                                                
* If you enjoy growing wild flowers, now is the time to collect                 
seed for your garden from many of the summer flowering types.                   
                                                                                
* As the nights become cool, caladiums will begin to lose leaves.               
Dig up, dry, and store in a warm, dry place to prevent rot. This                
space can be replanted with Christmas peppers or Jerusalem cherry               
plants which have been grown from seed in pots sunk in the                      
vegetable garden, or transplant mums that have been grown to                    
flower size in the vegetable garden.                                            
                                                                                
* Lots of spring bulb fanciers swear by bonemeal for fertilizing                
their planting beds, but the phosphorus in bonemeal is almost                   
completely unavailable to plants until the soil temperature                     
reaches about 50 degrees F. Bonemeal might aid your bulbs late in               
the growing season, but it does not aid flowering appreciable.                  
More soluble phosphorus fertilizers may work better in spring.                  
                                                                                
* Perennial phlox should be divided about every third or fourth                 
year. Divide big clumps of perennial phlox into thirds. Early                   
fall and early spring are the best times to plant and transplant                
them.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Plant tubers of both garden and tree peonies in September or                  
early October so they will have time to become established in the               
soil before winter. Dig a hole 18 inches across and 18 inches                   
deep for each tuber. Space the holes so that the plants will be                 
at least 3 feet apart. Pile loose soil at the side of the hole                  
and break up all lumps. Make sure the roots are buried only 1 1/2               
 2 inches below ground level so they will bloom next summer.                    
                                                                                
* Divide lilies-of-the-valley. Mix bone meal in the soil before                 
replanting.                                                                     
                                                                                
* A generation or two ago, gardeners over-wintered geraniums as                 
houseplants. In sunny windows, the plants flowered but usually                  
grew quite leggy. Development of new compact cultivars of                       
geraniums provides incentive to try overwintering a few plants.                 
In fact, some geranium producers are growing them as pot plants                 
for fall and winter sales.                                                      
                                                                                
* The maintanance of tulips as perennials depends on proper                     
selection of site, cultivars, and nutrition. Soil aeration is the               
most important consideration in siting tulips--forget poorly                    
drained sites. Add organic materials to heavy clay soils and                    
loosen the soil down to a foot deep, if possible.                               
                                                                                
Herbs                                                                           
                                                                                
* To insure a good crop of big bulbs next fall plant garlic                     
cloves this fall. Be sure to cover with a layer of organic mulch.               
                                                                                
* Garlic is harvested when the tops die down. To prepare garlic                 
for long term storage, cure the bulbs for four to six weeks in a                
warm, dry, shady location where there is very good air circu-                   
lation. Pile bulbs no more than two to three deep. After curing,                
store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated spot.                                     
                                                                                
* If you plan to move some of your chives indoors this winter,                  
this is the time to pot them up. When dividing your outdoor                     
plants, select young, mature plants and pot 8 to 10 per 6"                      
pot. They will do best on a sunny windowsill.                                   
                                                                                
* Keep basil, parsley, mint, sage, balm, and borage producing by                
pinching out the seed pods. Herbs can be used fresh, frozen in                  
airtight bags, or dried. Wait until the dew has dried and cut a                 
few stems, tie a string around this little bouquet and hang in a                
cool, dry place until completely dry. Crumble and place in a jar                
for use during the winter.                                                      
                                                                                
Woody Ornamentals                                                               
                                                                                
* An easy way to propagate autumn olive bushes by seed is to                    
simply plant the whole fruits soon after they ripen in the fall.                
                                                                                
* The disease, powdery mildew, becomes more abundant following                  
periods of cool nights and warm, dry days. Infected plants such                 
as crepe myrtle, lilac, zinnias, and azalea are covered with a                  
white powdery growth. Powdery mildew can be contralled by the use               
of appropriate fungicides. Contact your local Extension agent for               
recommendations.                                                                
                                                                                
* If pesky seedlings of woody plants, such as elm or hackberry,                 
are found growing in your hedge, remove them as soon as possible.               
If left too long, they will take over and leaves gaps in the                    
hedge when they are finally removed.                                            
                                                                                
* Allow plants to finish the summer growth cycle in a normal                    
manner. Heavy applications of fertilizer or excessive pruning at                
this time will encourage new growth. This will delay the                        
hardening process that has already begun in anticipation of                     
winter several months ahead. New growth can be injured by an                    
early freeze.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Select some accent plants for your landscape that will provide                
autumn colors. Trees that turn red include: dogwood, red maple,                 
black gum, sweet gum, and red or scarlet oak. Shrubs with red                   
fall foliage include: viburnum, winged euonymus, and barberry.                  
                                                                                
* Rake up leaves, twigs, and fruit from crabapple trees and                     
dispose of them in the trash to help control scab.                              
                                                                                
* Water newly planted trees and shrubs to provide sufficient                    
moisture and prevent winter damage. Add a 3" layer of a organic                 
mulch such as shredded bark around the base of plants to retain                 
soil moisture and regulate soil temperature. Leave mulch back                   
about 5" from the trunk of the tree to prvent mice feed on the                  
bark.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Remember to stake and wire newly planted trees. Use rubber hose               
around the guy wires to protect the trunk. Remember to take the                 
supports and stakes out in a few months once the tree is establi-               
shed.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Generally, it is best for home gardeners not to attempt moving                
deciduous trees before their leaves fall.                                       
                                                                                
* Needle leaf or cone-bearing evergreens can be transplanted now.               
Dig plants with ample rootball.                                                 
                                                                                
* Fall is a good time to plant trees around your home. According                
to the U.S. Forest Service, lawn trees increase the real estate                 
value of your home by 5-7%. In addition to this economic advan-                 
tage, trees provide erosion control, air cooling, wildlife                      
shelter, and air pollution reduction.                                           
                                                                                
* Fall is usually cool and moist and a good time to plant trees                 
and shrubs. Research has shown that roots will continue to grow                 
until the soil freezes. This is true for both evergreens and                    
deciduous plants.                                                               
                                                                                
Lawns                                                                           
                                                                                
* Lawns should be fertilized in late September or early October.                
Consult your local Extension agent for the most recent recommen-                
dations for your area.                                                          
                                                                                
* Healthy green grass outside the windows of your home can cool                 
the breeze off hot pavement by as much as 10 degrees F.                         
                                                                                
* Wood ashes contain phosphorous, calcium and potassium and can                 
be placed on garden, flower beds, or spread on lawn, but don't                  
overdo it. Avoid using wood ashes on acid-loving plants as it                   
raises the pH.                                                                  
                                                                                
* The best time for lawn construction is from mid-August to                     
mid-September for cool-season grasses. Seeding at this time                     
allows for a long fall growing period, when temperatures and                    
moisture conditions are most favorable and weed competition is at               
a minimum. By the time cold weather arrives, the grass is fairly                
well established and ready to grow and thicken early the                        
following spring.                                                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
Vegetables                                                                      
                                                                                
* Dried beans and peas are among the easiest crops to store. They               
will keep for many months in a cool, dry location. Control                      
weevils before storage by placing in a freezer at 0 degrees F or                
lower for 4 days, or heat to 180 degrees F for at least 15                      
minutes. Following this treatment, place the dry beans or peas in               
a tight container and place in a cool, dry place.                               
                                                                                
* Spinach is much better as a fall crop as it goes to seed                      
quickly when the weather warms up in spring.                                    
                                                                                
* Plant spinach, lettuce, kale, turnips, and radishes in early                  
September as the last crops for your fall garden. Soak seed                     
furrows well before sowing seed and mulch lightly. Water the rows               
daily to promote germination and growth of young seedlings.                     
                                                                                
* Save seeds from favorite self-pollinating non-hybrid flowers                  
and vegetables by allowing the flower heads to mature. Lay seeds                
on newspaper, turning often to dry; then store in glass jars or                 
envelopes in a cool (40-50 degrees F) dry, dark place.                          
                                                                                
* The tomato variety Long Keeper has received high acclaim by                   
home gardeners who have successfully kept fruit past the first of               
the new year in parts of Virginia.                                              
                                                                                
* Onions should be mature now. Dig on any airy day and store in a               
shady, dry place, in mesh bags or braided into a rope and hung.                 
                                                                                
* Green tomatoes may be stored for 4 to 6 weeks and will gradual-               
ly ripen to a nice red color. The best storage conditions are                   
about 60 degrees F and a moderately moist atmosphere. Harvest the               
tomatoes in a firm, green condition before frost. Remove the                    
stems to prevent puncturing other fruits. Wash dirt off rather                  
than wiping, which may cause skin scratches which will be                       
susceptible to decay. If the basement is quite dry, the tomatoes                
may be placed in film bags, or film-lined boxes to increase the                 
humidity. Sort the fruit every week to remove those which ripen                 
or start to decay.                                                              
                                                                                
* Hot peppers will keep best if stored after they are dry. Pull                 
the plants and hang them up, or pick the peppers and thread on a                
string. Store in any cool, dry place.                                           
                                                                                
* Spray cabbage, broccoli, and caulifower with BT (Bacillus                     
thuringiensis) once a week through harvest to avoid cabbage                     
loopers.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Sweet potatoes will keep for several months in a medium dry                   
basement. Handle sweet potatoes very carefully to avoid bruising                
or cutting. Cure for about 10 days at 80 degrees F or for 20 days               
at 70 degrees F to dry and toughen the skin. This can be done                   
near the furnace in your basement. Store under medium dry                       
conditions at 60 degrees F, or as close to this temperature as                  
possible. Sort your sweet potatoes carefully every few weeks and                
remove any that may start to decay.                                             
                                                                                
* The gardening season can be extended well into the winter.                    
Lettuce, cress, radishes, endive, and spinach can all be grown in               
the well-known structure, the coldframe. In cooler weather,                     
insulate the outer sides of the box with banked soil or sawdust.                
Cover the top with sacks stuffed with straw or other insulation                 
during cold nights.                                                             
                                                                                
* Winter type pumpkins and squash such as acorn, butternut and                  
spaghetti may keep for several months in a cool, medium-dry                     
basement, garage or tool shed. Allow the fruit to ripen fully on                
the vine, and cure in the sun to form a hard rind. Harvest before               
frost, and leave a piece of stem on each when they are cut from                 
the vine. If the floor is damp, place pumpkins and squash on                    
shelves to reduce the possibility of rot. The best storage                      
temperature is about 60 degrees F.                                              
                                                                                
* Cover crops can be planted as early as August 1, but should not               
be planted any later than November 1. They should make some                     
growth before hard frost kills them. Where you have fall crops                  
growing, you can sow cover crop seed between rows a month or less               
before expected harvest. This way, the cover crop gets a good                   
start but will not interfere with vegetable plant growth.                       
                                                                                
Fruits/ Nuts                                                                    
                                                                                
* Pears should be picked at the hard ripe stage, and allowed to                 
finish ripening off the tree. The base color of yellow pears                    
should change from green to yellow as the fruit approaches                      
maturity. Pick Kieffer pears when full size but still green.                    
Store at 60 to 70 degrees F. Then store at 35-40 degrees for top                
quality.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Check grapevines for mummied berries - victims of black rot.                  
Pick them and dispose of (do not compost) before they can spread                
the disease.                                                                    
                                                                                
* There are several methods that can be used to determine when                  
apples are ready to be picked. The first is to hold a fruit                     
gently in the palm of your hand. Then, slowly lift up on the                    
fruit. If the stem easily separates from the tree, it is ripe.                  
Second, the base color, the side of the fruit nearest the trunk,                
of many varieties changes from a darker to a lighter shade of                   
green as the fruit reaches maturity. A third test is to cut a                   
fruit in half to check the color of its seeds. Brown seeds                      
indicate ripeness or maturity.                                                  
                                                                                
* Harvest fall-bearing and/or everbearing raspberries as quickly                
as they ripen. Frequent harvesting helps to reduce insect and                   
disease problems. Prune out canes (or portions of canes on                      
everbearers) that have borne fruit immediately after harvest.                   
                                                                                
Indoor Plants                                                                   
                                                                                
* Don't wait for frost warnings to move your plants indoors. Tem-               
peratures of 50 degrees F or lower can damage many tropical                     
houseplants.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Before moving your houseplants back inside from their outdoor                 
summer, take time to wash your windows. Not only will it be                     
easier without plants in the way, it will make considerably more                
light available and help your plants adjust to their new lower                  
light regime.                                                                   
                                                                                
* An easy indoor plant watering system can be designed by                       
inserting an asbestos-glass water wick into one of the drainage                 
holes of a pot. Or old nylon stockings can be braided and used                  
instead. Set the pot on a water reservoir made from heavy plastic               
such as large-sized whipped margarine containers. Prepare the lid               
by making two holes; one for the wick to reach the water, and a                 
larger one for supplying fresh water. This is a highly efficient                
system for carefree watering. However, the plants should be                     
periodically watered from the top to flush accumulated minerals                 
from the soil.                                                                  
                                                                                
Miscellaneous                                                                   
                                                                                
* When using a cold frame to extend your harvest season, be sure                
to close the top for frosty nights to protect the plants from the               
cold. When the sun comes out the next morning and the air warms,                
you can open the cold frame again.                                              
                                                                                
* All those leaves which fall each autumn are perfect for                       
starting a compost pile. A compost pile does not have to be                     
anything fancy. Simply pile up leaves in a corner of your garden.               
Mix in some soil to provide organisms that will break down the                  
leaves and other compost material. Next spring you can                          
incorporate the broken down leaves (leaf mold) into your garden                 
when you turn the soil over. For more detailed information on                   
composting request publication 426-325.                                         
                                                                                
* Now is the time to collect okra, gourds, seed pods, sumac seed                
heads, rose hips and other suitable material for dried flower                   
arrangements. Air dry these materials in a dark, cool location.                 
                                                                                
* Autumn is a good time for improving your garden soil. Add                     
manure, compost, sawdust and leaves to increase the organic                     
matter content. Before adding lime to your soil, have your soil                 
tested to determine if your garden needs lime.                                  
                                                                                
* You can help leaves break down more easily by running a lawn                  
mover back and forth over the pile. Put the shredded leaves                     
directly onto the garden or compost pile.                                       
                                                                                
* Get in a supply of sand (without salt) for the winter. It comes               
in handy not only for walks and driveways, but also for making                  
soil mixtures and for storing root crops.                                       
                                                                                
* A green manure or cover crop improves water infiltration,                     
reduces soil erosion, reduces nutrient leaching and promotes the                
growth of microorganisms. Annual rye can be sown at the rate of                 
15.2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. during September and October. A light                
fertilization with 1-2 lbs. of 5-10-10 will generally increase                  
plant growth.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Try a cover crop this fall. Planted as early as possible winter               
rye (the grain, not the grass) can produce lush growth which when               
turned under in spring loosens and enriches the soil.                           
                                                                                
* While leaves are abundant, plow some into the garden and store                
some for next year's mulch.                                                     
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Press Releases September 1987                                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
Press release material was prepared by J. T. Foley and Clare                    
McGinnis, Extension Technicians, and Diane Relf, Extension                      
Specialist in Consumer Horticulture, working with Eric Day,                     
Manager of the Insect ID Lab. The Virginia Gardener Press                       
Releases have been developed for agent use in preparing radio and               
newspaper features and other educational programs.                              
                                                                                
Daffodils and Tulips                                72 lines                    
Starting a Wildflower Meadow                        79 lines                    
Ginseng                                             49 lines                    
Clematis for the Landscape                          71 lines                    
Lilies, Aristocrats of the Garden                   53 lines                    
Boxelder Bugs                                       52 lines                    
                                                                                
Daffodils and Tulips                                                           
                                                                                
Would you like to plant some flowers that are practically                       
guaranteed to bloom? There are many bulbs which are very                        
dependable, with  daffodils and tulips leading the list. Plant                  
them this fall for fine blooms next spring.                                     
                                                                                
Some general guidelines:                                                        
                                                                                
Purchase only high quality bulbs from a reliable source. Cheap                  
bulbs may be of poor quality and inferior varieties. Small bulbs                
produce small blooms. Plant fall bulbs soon after you get them                  
from the garden center or mail order catalog. If necessary they                 
can be stored for several weeks in a cool, dry place. Be sure                   
they are not held in a damp basement where they may rot.                        
                                                                                
The best time to plant spring-flowering bulbs is when soil                      
temperatures fall below 60 degrees F. In Virginia this is                       
generally from late September to early November. Planting as                    
early as possible in the fall allows the bulbs to develop a good                
root system before the ground freezes. Planting should be                       
completed not later than two or three weeks after the average                   
first fall frost date in your area.                                             
                                                                                
Spring flowering bulbs should be planted in well drained soil.                  
They need a good moisture supply during the growing season, but                 
will rot if the ground stays wet for long periods. Plant tulips,                
daffodils and other large bulbs 6 inches deep from ground level                 
to the base of the bulb. Space them 6 inches apart. In lighter                  
sandy soils, plant bulbs a little deeper, in heavier soils not as               
deep.                                                                           
                                                                                
Fertilizaton improves bulb performance and encourages bloom in                  
sucessive years. Either of two fertilizing methods is                           
recommended. One utilizes a sulfur-coated, slow-release complete                
fertilizer incorporated into the rooting area at the rate of one                
rounded tablespoon per square foot, or 4 lbs per 100 sq.ft. This                
is applied once per year in the fall.                                           
                                                                                
The other method is an application of 8-8-8 at 4 lbs per 100 sq.                
ft. or 10-10-10, at 3 lbs per 100 sq. ft. (roughly one rounded                  
teaspoon fertilizer per square foot), in the early fall. Apply                  
again in the spring when the first shoots break through the                     
ground.                                                                         
                                                                                
Cover the planted area with a 3 inch layer of organic mulch. Keep               
the soil moist, particularly during dry spells.                                 
                                                                                
Daffodils are probably the most useful and dependable of spring                 
flowering bulbs. Varieties are now available which range in                     
height from about four to 20 inches. Dwarf daffodils work nicely                
in shrub or border plantings. The taller varieties are good for                 
mass display in beds, naturalizing, or for cut flowers in the                   
home.                                                                           
                                                                                
The large trumpet-flowered daffodils are the type most frequently               
seen. Add variety to your collection by planting some of the                    
fragrant cluster-flowered Tazetta types such as Paper-whites. As                
cut flowers they will bring spring freshness into your home. They               
last quite well in arrangements.                                                
                                                                                
Do not neglect tulips in your fall planting. Plant breeders have                
done a terrific job in supplying new varieties. Many colors are                 
available in dwarf and tall varieites for all types of gardens. A               
catalog will be helpful to determine which are best for your                    
particular garden.                                                              
                                                                                
Consider planting some of the dwarf and medium-sized tulips. They               
are long lasting in the garden and less subject to wind damage                  
than the tall species. Also, plant a few of the cluster flowered                
varieties. These May-flowering tulips are quite different from                  
those which have only one flower per stem.                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Starting a Wildflower Meadow                                                   
                                                                                
The first step in starting a wildflower area is selecting an                    
appropriate site and matching the species to that site. When                    
possible, use indigenous species. Plants are adapted to                         
environmental factors such as climate, rainfall, pH and type of                 
soil and any attempt to establish wildflowers must begin with                   
recognizing these field conditions. Research indicates that                     
indigenous species have a high rate of germination and survival                 
which are keys to successful establishment of wildflowers.                      
                                                                                
To determine  a species desirability, several factors should be                 
considered. Does the species exhibit showy vegetation or flowers?               
Will the species be successful in establishing itself? Will it be               
able to maintain itself in that location? Is it a perennial or a                
self-seeding biennial or annual? Finally, is the species invasive               
or considered a noxious weed?                                                   
                                                                                
The typically cool, wet months of fall are the optimum time to                  
plant seed for next spring's wildflowers. There are two reasons                 
for this early start. Some species germinate in the fall,                       
establishing a root system and some vegetative growth prior to                  
winter. Other seeds require a cold period to break their                        
dormancy. Germination is induced when a warm, wet spring occurs                 
after sufficient chilling. Therefore, a fall seeding is the most                
economical approach to establishing spring and early summer                     
wildflowers. A recognized problem with some wildflowers is                      
getting the seeds to sprout. However, in successive growing                     
seasons, some of the residual seeds will germinate. Establishing                
a good stand of wildflowers can take several years and plenty of                
patience.                                                                       
                                                                                
Ground preparation depends on the area to be planted, but one                   
rule applies to all situations. There must be good seed/soil                    
contact to provide protection from bird predation, optimum                      
moisture for germination, and a growing substrate for the                       
seedlings. Fertilization in most cases does not benefit the plant               
and can cause excess vegetative growth at the expense of                        
flowering.                                                                      
                                                                                
For large areas where tilling is not economical or desirable,                   
several planting techniques exist. The first is to mow existing                 
vegetation to ground level and loose the surface of the topsoil                 
to make it possible to rake seed into the soil to ensure good                   
seed/soil contact. Another technique is to mow the vegetation as                
short as possible, spread a thin layer of topsoil (1/2 to 1 inch)               
and work seed into it. The least effective method of wildflower                 
seeding is the "feeding the chickens" technique of imitating                    
Mother Nature by randomly scattering seed on unprepared ground.                 
This process works in nature because it occurs over and over                    
again with hundreds or even thousands of times more seed.                       
                                                                                
The actual process of scattering the seed is another consider-                  
ation. Even distribution of seed at the recommended rate                        
determines the resulting wildflower density. An adjustable hand                 
carried mechanical seeder works well for many species. Some                     
species have such small seed that even distribution is very                     
difficult. If you scatter the seed manually, mix very small seed                
with damp sand to improve the results. Whether by hand or                       
mechanical seeder, evenly spreading a commercial wildflower mix                 
is difficult because of the different size and weight of the seed               
included in the mix. If possible, purchase each species                         
separately and seed one at a time to eliminate this problem.                    
                                                                                
All plants require water for seed germination. Watering is                      
recommended if fall rains are insufficient. Water thoroughly once               
and then lightly each week thereafter until the first freeze. If                
there is no winter moisture, water a couple of times during                     
December and January. This will provide moisture to the root zone               
of seedlings and effectively provide a cold wet treatment for                   
spring germinating seeds. If spring rains are light or                          
nonexistant, periodic watering will ensure optimal growth and                   
flowering.                                                                      
                                                                                
Do not mow until at least half of the latest flowering species                  
has dropped its seed. Annual and biennial wildflowers must be                   
allowed to reseed themselves to produce a good stand the next                   
year. Once established, wildflowers should return each year with                
little or no reseeding necessary and minimal maintenance.                       
Ginseng                                                                        
                                                                                
American ginseng is a herbaceous plant with a fleshy root. It                   
grows in open hardwood forests from Maine to Minnesota, and south               
to the mountains of Carolina and Georgia. The plant was                         
discovered by a missionary near Montreal, Canada in 1716 and is                 
very similar in appearance and aromatic properties to Chinese                   
ginseng.                                                                        
                                                                                
The scientific name of the American species of ginseng is Panax                 
quiquefolius. The genus name, Panax, means it is a panacea or                   
remedy for ills of the flesh. The species name quiquefolius,                    
refers to the five leaflets or segments of each leaf. The Asian                 
species is named Panax pseudoginseng. The species name in this                  
case means man-shape, a likeness which the root often favors.                   
                                                                                
Ginseng requires a well drained light loam soil, with a high                    
organic matter content. An adequate supply of moisture must be                  
available at all times. The planting must be protected from hot                 
sun by tall trees or a slatted shade covering.                                  
                                                                                
The seeds of ginseng mature in September and should be planted                  
immediately. When this procedure is followed, a good percentage                 
will germinate the next spring. If seeds are allowed to become                  
thoroughly dry, they may require an additional twelve to eighteen               
months germination time.                                                        
                                                                                
When grown in a bed, ginseng plants can be spaced about two by                  
six inches apart where they will be grown for one or two years.                 
They should then be transplanted to a permanent location with                   
plants four inches apart in rows 12 to 15 inches apart.                         
                                                                                
Keep ginseng beds free from grass and weeds at all times. Apply                 
one pound of bone meal per square yard each spring about a month                
before the average date of the last frost. Scratch this into the                
surface soil and water thoroughly. Soluble fertilizers are not                  
recommended, a naturally enriched organic soil is always best.                  
Also add a light organic mulch to help conserve soil moisture and               
keep the soil cool.                                                             
                                                                                
Ginseng reaches marketable size in five or six years. Dig the                   
roots carefully because the trade accepts only whole roots. Dry                 
them in a well ventilated room at 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.                  
Large roots dry slowly and must be turned regularly to avoid                    
molding.                                                                        
                                                                                
Ginseng can be sold to wholesale pharmaceutical dealers who                     
supply the U.S. market and export to China. Be sure to check on                 
the outlet for your crop before starting production.                            
                                                                                
Clematis for the Landscape                                                     
                                                                                
Large flowering clematis vines will add dramatic beauty to your                 
garden or landscape. The original large flowering form of                       
Clematis, C. x Jackmanii, has purple flowers up to about three                  
inches across. The new hybrid varieties have six to eight inch                  
blooms in attractive shades of violet, red, white, blue, pink,                  
and bi-colors.                                                                  
                                                                                
The vines make a striking display on a post, old tree stump,                    
arbor, fence, or trellis. The plants do not have tendrils, but                  
are supported by twining leaf stalks. Common varieties are hardy                
at temperatures to 30 degrees below zero.                                       
                                                                                
Clematis blooms from early summer until fall depending on the                   
variety. The plant is excellent as a landscape specimen, and the                
flowers are very good for arrangements. Blooms may last ten days                
if cut with some older wood attached.                                           
                                                                                
The clematis has a very unusual and interesting flower which has                
no petals. The colorful parts are actually enlarged sepals which                
give the impression of being long beautiful petals.                             
                                                                                
Fall is a good time to set out clematis vines. Check with                       
nurseryman now for the plants you will need. The best time for                  
planting is a couple weeks after the average first frost in your                
area. If you don't get the job done this fall, plant them next                  
spring, about a month before the average date of the last frost.                
                                                                                
Select a deep, well drained, fertile loam soil, in a sunny                      
location. For good growth, clematis should receive at least six                 
hours of sun daily.                                                             
                                                                                
Dig a deep large hole to allow plenty of room to spread the                     
roots. Mix an amount of shredded peat moss equal to one third the               
volume of the hole with the excavated soil. Clematis prefer a pH                
of 6.5 to 7.0 so add ground limestone if your soil is acidic. Set               
the crown of the plants about two to three inches below the soil                
surface. Stem rot can occur when clematis is planted too                        
shallowly. Fill the hole about three-fourths full of rich soil                  
and tamp down firmly around the roots. Then add several gallons                 
of water, and after it has been completely absorbed, finish                     
filling the hole to ground level.                                               
                                                                                
After planting, the clematis should be cut back to a height of                  
about ten inches. The stems are slender and brittle and should be               
carefully tied to a supporting stake immediately after planting.                
The stems are easily broken if whipped by the wind, or bent by                  
cultural equipment. Also, sharp or repeated bending may break the               
bark and provide an easy entrance for disease organisms.                        
                                                                                
Clematis plants require an abundance of moisture and a cool soil                
to promote vigorous growth. They will not tolerate poor drainage                
and wet feet, or a sun baked soil. Mulch with a two inch layer of               
shredded bark, peat moss, wood chips, or other organic material.                
This will help to conserve moisture, keep the soil cool, and                    
control weeds.                                                                  
                                                                                
Fertilize your clematis in early spring and late fall with a 5-                 
10-5 fertilizer. Use about one cupful per plant spread evenly in                
a circle extending about two feet around the plant. Do not use                  
fertilizer during the middle or late summer as it will stimulate                
new growth which might be damaged by cold weather. Occasional                   
soil pH adjustment may be needed as well.                                       
                                                                                
Light to moderate pruning of clematis is needed to maintain vigor               
and desirable size. Most hybrid varieties bloom on new shoots                   
which grow during the spring. Such vines are pruned in late                     
winter before growth starts. However, some varieties produce                    
flowers on old wood which grew the previous summer. These should                
be pruned as soon as they stop blooming.                                        
                                                                                
Lilies, Aristocrats of the Garden                                              
                                                                                
During recent years, plant breeders have developed many fine new                
hybrid lilies. Their stately grace and color add charm and beauty               
to the landscape. The flowers are ideal for arrangements in the                 
home or church. The plants are hardy and easy to grow.                          
                                                                                
Lily varieties can be selected by color, blooming season, and                   
height. Lilies will bloom from June until September, ranging in                 
height from two to six feet. Clear white or spotted varieties are               
available as well as shades of yellow, orange, pink, red and                    
violet. Bulbs of these new hybrids suffer less from virus                       
diseases than the old species types. Study the descriptions and                 
pictures in catalogs to help select the varieties which are best                
for your particular garden. Most catalogs are reliable sources of               
information.                                                                    
                                                                                
Lilies should be planted during September or October, as early as               
the bulbs can be secured. Lily bulbs do not become completely                   
dormant like daffodils and tulips. They must be kept moist at all               
times. When buying lilies look for fresh bulbs with a cluster of                
living roots at the base, packed in a plastic bag with moist                    
peat. Plant immediately.                                                        
                                                                                
The location of the lily planting is important. Plant lily bulbs                
where they will remain undisturbed for many years. Select a well-               
drained fertile loam soil. In areas where excessive soil moisture               
in winter can occur, surround the bulbs with coarse sand to avoid               
rotting. Most lilies grow best in full sun, but will tolerate                   
partial shade.                                                                  
                                                                                
Displays of lilies will be more attractive if planted bulbs are                 
in groups of three, spaced about 12 inches apart. If your taste                 
runs to some of the more expensive new varieties, you may prefer                
to buy only one bulb and wait patiently for a few years for it to               
multiply. Some varieties multiply quite rapidly and may be dug up               
and divided every four to six years.                                            
                                                                                
To plant the lilies, cover the bulbs with soil equal to about                   
twice their largest diameter. Plant those that produce roots at                 
above the top of the bulb at least four inches deep, however                    
plant lilies which form roots only at the base of the bulb, such                
as madonna lily, about 1 inch deep. Mark the location carefully,                
or make a planting chart, to avoid damaging young shoots when                   
working in the flower border next spring.                                       
                                                                                
Use one to two inches of a mulch such as bark, peat moss,                       
shredded leaves or wood chips around lilies to help conserve soil               
moisture and provide to protection during the winter. Lilies can                
be harmed by large amounts of nitrogen fertilizer or fresh                      
manure. Promote vigorous growth by using 5-10-5 fertilizer as a                 
side-dressing once in the early spring and again in mid-summer.                 
Apply about one pound per 100 square feet of bed area.                          
                                                                                
Boxelder Bug                                                                    
                                                                                
The boxelder bug becomes a pest in and around many homes each                   
year in fall and spring. This one half inch long bug is black                   
with three red lines on the thorax, a red line along each side,                 
and an oblique red line on each wing. The wings lie flat on the                 
back when at rest. The young nymphs are red and gray.                           
                                                                                
Boxelder bugs normally feed on the leaves, flowers, and seed pods               
of the boxelder tree. Though a large population of the insects                  
may be present, they actually do little detectable damage to the                
plant. Large infestations are usually on the female, or pod-                    
bearing tree. They usually do not build up to such large numbers                
when feeding on male boxelder trees and other plants such as ash,               
maple or fruit trees.                                                           
                                                                                
Boxelder bugs have piercing-sucking mouth parts and feed on plant               
juices. A large infestation will commonly stunt a plant but not                 
drastically effect the overall appearance. The major worry of                   
many homeowners is the invasion of their homes by these                         
conspicuous insects. Control measures are not commonly suggested                
unless the insects threaten to over run the house.                              
                                                                                
Adult boxelder bugs lay eggs in the spring and the nymphs emerge                
in a few days. The nymphs are small and show more red than                      
adults. These nymphs develop into adults during the summer, then                
mate and lay eggs which hatch into nymphs of the second                         
generation. Activity of nearly fully grown nymphs is noticed in                 
August and September when they gather in large numbers on the                   
trunks of boxelder trees. The migration of the adults begins at                 
this time.                                                                      
                                                                                
The adults' search for a place to overwinter brings them into                   
homes where they hide in small cracks and crevices in walls, door               
and window casings, attics, and around the foundation. During                   
warm days in winter and early spring they come out and scatter                  
through the house. They are primarily a nuisance as they crawl or               
fly about in the rooms. They do no damage by feeding, but their                 
excrement spots on draperies are difficult to remove.                           
                                                                                
Boxelder bugs do not feed on household structures, so there is no               
need for extensive chemical control in the house. The bugs can be               
cleaned up with a vacuum cleaner. Eliminate hiding places such as               
piles of rocks, boards, leaves, and general debris close to                     
houses. Repair places where the bugs may enter the house, such as               
cracks around doors, windows, weather-boarding, and in the                      
foundation.                                                                     
                                                                                
(Information provided by Eric Day, Manager of the Insect ID Lab,                
adapted from Insect Control for Ornamentals, Gardens, and the                   
Home, Publication 371, by William Robinson, Extension Specialist,               
Entomology.)                                                                    
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
                                                                                
September 1987  The Virginia Gardener Question Box                              
                                                                                
This material was prepared by J. T. Foley and Clare McGinnis,                   
Horticulture Extension Technicians, working with Diane Relf,                    
Extension Specialist Consumer Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener               
Question Box has been developed for agent use in preparing radio                
and newspaper features.                                                         
                                                                                
Harvesting Carrots and Parsnips                  27 lines                       
Reasons to Plant Trees                           44 lines                       
Cabbages Resistant to Cabbage Yellows Fungus      8 lines                       
Planting Garlic                                  24 lines                       
Black Gum                                        18 lines                       
Winter Onions                                    35 lines                       
Harvesting and Curing Gourds                     12 lines                       
Digging Gladiolus Bulbs                          14 lines                       
Insects Carry Disease                            18 lines                       
Balloon Flower                                   18 lines                       
                                                                                
___________________                                                             
                                                                                
How and when should you harvest carrots and parsnips for home                   
storage?                                                                        
                                                                                
To store carrots and parsnips indoors, harvest the roots when                   
fully mature as the thicker skin helps them store better. Plant                 
root crops so that they mature as late as possible to allow the                 
cool weather to sweeten them and to have the freshest possible                  
roots for storage. Dig the roots after 2-3 days of dry weather                  
and leave them in the sun for a few hours to kill the root hairs                
and force the root to become dormant. Cut the tops off close to                 
the root and do not wash! Do not store diseased roots, broken                   
roots, or roots with cuts or bruises as they are susceptible to                 
rot. Store roots in a root celler or in an insulated box in a                   
cool room. Pack the roots loosely. With good air circulation,                   
roots are less likely to rot.                                                   
                                                                                
However, carrots and parsnips may be left in the ground all                     
winter long. In fact, parsnips need several frosts to develop                   
good flavor and may be best when harvested in the spring. Carrots               
and parsnips need about 10 inches of mulch over the soil to                     
maintain even soil temperature and to prevent the ground from                   
freezing and keeping you from harvesting them. In early spring,                 
stored starches are changed to sugar as the plants prepare for                  
new growth, thus roots harvested in early spring are especially                 
tender and sweet. The roots lose flavor and become fibrous if you               
do not harvest them before new tops and seed stalks begin to                    
grow. This method is simple and especially useful for those who                 
have limited storage space.                                                     
                                                                                
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I have recently purchased a house on a lot with no landscaping or               
trees. It looks very barren and not at all welcoming. Planting                  
large trees is a significant investment. Will I get good return                 
for my money?                                                                   
                                                                                
Yes, trees provide return on investment in many ways. As well as                
beautifying a site, ornamental trees provide other benefits and                 
have many uses.                                                                 
                                                                                
Trees provide a great deal of shelter. They give shade from the                 
hot sun and they eliminate much of the cutting force of strong                  
wind and rain. Their canopy helps retain moisture in the soil.                  
They help secure privacy by providing eye-pleasing barriers,                    
borders and hedges.                                                             
                                                                                
Evergreen trees act as noise barriers between busy highways and                 
home or business sites.                                                         
                                                                                
Trees can also save you energy dollars. By placing trees in                     
strategic locations around your home to act as windbreaks you may               
realize energy savings of 25 to 40 percent. By reducing wind                    
speeds home heating costs can be lowered significantly.                         
(See publication 324-859, Landscaping to Cut Fuel Costs or                      
September `86 issue of the Virginia Gardener with article of the                
same name).                                                                     
                                                                                
Trees convert carbon dioxide to oxygen. It is estimated that each               
person needs seven trees to perform this task of keeping our air                
fresh and clean.                                                                
                                                                                
Trees may enrich a pleasant feature such as a perennial border in               
the garden by forming a contrasting background for that feature.                
They can be used to screen unsightly objects or to frame and                    
accent pleasing views. Trees are also an excellant way of                       
preventing soil erosion on steep slopes and banks.                              
                                                                                
In addition, trees increase land values. Landscaping can add to                 
the resale value of your property. A well-planted, properly                     
maintained home site may have its orginal value increased from 10               
to 15 percent.                                                                  
                                                                                
Research and planning are crucial to successful use of trees in a               
landscape. Your library, extension agent, or local nursery should               
be able to provide helpful information.                                         
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
Are there cultivars of cabbage resistant to yellows disease?                    
                                                                                
The cabbage yellows fungus is found in many Virginia garden soils               
and, once present, can live there for many years. However there                 
are yellows resistant cultivars available. Some of these,                       
recommended in VPI publication 450-171 by Robert Lambe plant                    
pathologist, are:`Gourmet`,`Moneymaker`, `Abbott and Cobb No.5                  
Plus`,`Blue Boy`,`Prime Pak`,`Little Rock`, and`Market Prize`.                  
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
I would like to grow garlic in my garden and have been told that                
it can be started in the fall. How do I go about planting it?                   
                                                                                
Plant  garlic in the fall or early spring for a vigorous start                  
that will help it grow the healthy tops necessary for large                     
bulbs. Bulbing begins when days get long and temperatures warm                  
and is completed in August when the tops die back.                              
                                                                                
Full sun, good fertility and loose, crumbly soil are important to               
a successful garlic crop. For a ten-foot row, which will produce                
about twenty bulbs, spread one pound of 5-10-10 fertilizer or the               
organic equivalent and a three-inch layer of compost or other                   
organic matter and work thoroughly into the soil. Buy several                   
bulbs of garlic from the market, and using the largest, outer                   
cloves, plant them one inch deep and six inches apart. Use                      
smaller cloves for cooking. Cloves must be planted as soon as                   
they are removed from the bulb for best development.                            
                                                                                
In spring, when the leaves are six or eight inches high, side                   
dress with about a quarter of a cup of 5-10-10. The plants will                 
flower in early summer, but this does not have a major effect on                
bulbing. The bulbs are ready for harvesting when the foliage                    
begins to die back and fall over. To harvest, lift the bulbs from               
underneath, free them of soil, and let them dry in a cool place                 
for several days.                                                               
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
Last fall I noticed a tree in the woods with brilliant red leaves               
that I did not recognize. A neighbor suggested it might be a gum.               
What kind of gum could it be? Can I obtain this tree from a                     
nursery?                                                                        
                                                                                
Black gum, Nyssa sylvatica, is a beautiful native tree that is                  
not often found in nurseries. Another gum with attractive fall                  
foliage is the sweet gum, a common nursery plant. In spite of                   
their similar common names, black gum and sweet gum are not                     
related. Sweet gum belongs to the witch-hazel family; is tall,                  
upright with large star-shaped leaves and conspicuous ball shaped               
fruits. Black gum, also known as tupelo or sour gum, is often                   
straight and single trunked when young but becomes gnarled and                  
twisted in a picturesque manner when old. A spreading and round                 
headed tree with rather small unlobed and untoothed leaves, its                 
fall foliage is spectacular - the brightest red of any native                   
tree. Found in swamps in the wild, the black gum grows well in                  
heavy clay and poorly drained soil. It is very deep rooted,                     
making it difficult to transplant, especially large specimens.                  
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
Can you give me information on "winter" onions?                                 
                                                                                
The term "winter" onion refers to perennial onions that, unlike                 
ordinary onions, may be left year to year without problems                      
associated with bolting. There are several types of winter onions               
that may be of interest to Virginia gardeners. Among these are                  
the walker onions (top multipliers or Egyptian onions) and the                  
bunching onions (Welsh or Japanese onions).                                     
                                                                                
Walker onions (Allium cepa var. viviparum) produce flowers at the               
top of stalks in the summer followed by miniature onions                        
(bulbils) instead of seeds. As summer progresses the hollow stalk               
bearing the bulbils ages and falls over, dropping the little                    
onions to the ground. The bulbils then root and create new plants               
giving the plant the name "walker" onion. Plant these onions in                 
September or October to allow them to develop root systems before               
winter. The plants mature in mid-summer and form their bulbils.                 
They produce no big bulb underground, however the green blades                  
may be snipped while tender for use as green onions and the                     
strong-flavored bulbils used in pickling. The bulbils keep very                 
well by storing indoors, hanging and drying. These plants are                   
very hardy and all parts are edible.                                            
                                                                                
Bunching onions (Allium fistulosum) are hardy green onions with a               
mild, sweet flavor. They originated in Asia and are widely used                 
in Oriental cuisine. Bunching onions were widely cultivated in                  
English herb gardens from the 17th century but never quite caught               
on in the West. They are best grown in a trench with soil pulled                
in around the stem as they grow. This is called "blanching" and                 
will increase the amount of white stem formed (as with leeks).                  
These plants will suffer if the soil dries out and do well with a               
thick layer of mulch. Bunching onions multiply from the base of                 
the plants much like shallots, however they will not produce a                  
bulb. They don't store well, and are best left in the garden to                 
be dug for immediate use.                                                       
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
When do you harvest gourds and how can you make them last?                      
                                                                                
Harvest ornamental gourd cultivars when fruits are fully mature                 
and the stem that attaches the gourd to the vine has shriveled                  
and become hard. Cut the fruit from the vine leaving a few inches               
of stem on the gourd.                                                           
                                                                                
Ornamental gourds require thorough curing to preserve them. Wash                
newly harvested gourds in warm soapy water and dry with a soft                  
cloth. Allow them to air dry completely before polishing the                    
fruit with floor or furniture wax or coating with white shellac                 
to improve appearance and prolong storage. Store in a dry, well-                
ventilated location.                                                            
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
When should I dig my gladiolus bulbs and how do I go about it?                  
                                                                                
Gladiolus corms do not need to be dug in most parts of Virginia                 
except as a precaution against winter damage on especially prized               
specimens. Gladiolus may be dug when the foliage begins to yellow               
after the first killing frost. Loosen the dirt under the corms,                 
remove the plants, and cut the foliage back 1/2 inch from the tip               
of the corms. Lay the corms out in a warm, airy spot out of                     
direct sunlight for about one week. After they have dried, break                
off the main or parent corm and separate the smaller cormels.                   
Place these in a paper bag along with a few moth flakes (to kill                
destructive thrips) and a light dusting of fungicide for disease                
control. Store in a cool, dry room with the temperature around 45               
degrees F.                                                                      
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
I recently had a sick bush in my hedge. I noticed some tiny                     
insects on the plant's leaves so I took a sample of the leaves                  
and insects to the extension office to learn what was killing the               
plant. The plant lab report said that the bush was diseased and                 
must be removed because insects would transmit the disease to the               
rest of the hedge. My question is how would insects spread                      
disease?                                                                        
                                                                                
Insects are responsible for spreading plant diseases in a number                
of different ways: (a) by feeding or laying eggs or boring into                 
plants, they make an entrance point for a disease that is not                   
actually transported by them; (b) by disseminating pathogens on                 
or in their bodies, from one plant to a susceptible surface of                  
another plant; (c) by harboring pathogens inside their bodies                   
during adverse periods, such as winter, drought or host plant                   
scarcity and protecting them from adverse climatic conditions.                  
The insect later injects the pathogen into the host plant when                  
feeding.                                                                        
                                                                                
 --------------                                                                 
                                                                                
I'm looking for new or unusual flowers that can be used for                     
flower arrangements. What can you tell me about the possible uses               
of balloon flower?                                                              
                                                                                
The balloon flower, Platycodon grandiflorum, is an attractive,                  
long-lived, hardy herbaceous perennial with thick, fleshy,                      
carrot-like roots. Flower colors are blue, white, and light pink.               
Before the flower opens, the petals remain fused, giving the                    
swollen bud a balloon-like appearance. Although balloon flower is               
usually grown for its beauty in the garden, recent interest in                  
using perennials as cut flowers has increased and brought more                  
attention to balloon flower because of its upright growth habit,                
attractive buds and flowers, and the long period of time that the               
plants remain in flower.                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
In research at Penn State, it has been found that balloon flower                
could be forced in the greenhouse for use as a cut flower. Though               
individual buds, once opened, lasted only 2 to 3 days before                    
fading, the flower stem remained attractive and with time, nearly               
all the buds enlarged and opened over an 8-10 day period.                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
December Notes                                                                  
                                                                                
* Minimizing traffic on the frozen lawn will reduce winter                      
damage.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Turn your houseplants frequently to insure uniform light                      
distribution and straighter growth. Avoid putting them on the                   
television, near the heater vents or other sources of heat. Don't               
overwater; growth has slowed significantly for the winter so less               
water and fertilizer is required.                                               
                                                                                
* Once the ground freezes in your area, mulch your perennial                    
flowers and small fruit plants to prevent winter heaving.                       
                                                                                
* Check any fruits and vegetables, or corms and tubers that you                 
have in storage. Sort out any that show signs of disease and                    
dispose of them.                                                                
                                                                                
* Start reviewing and expanding your garden notes to help with                  
next year's plans.                                                              
                                                                                
* Plan a visit to a public garden or nursery where you can                      
observe trees and shrubs in their winter phase. Some have quite                 
lovely shapes and colors that could be an asset to your land-                   
scape.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Assess the energy efficiency of your landscape. Do you have                   
evergreen trees or shrubs blocking a window where the sun's                     
warmth would be welcome? Consider replacing them with a deciduous               
plant that would let sun in in the winter but cast cooling shade                
in the summer.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Prepare gifts from your garden. Wreaths or swags from pruning                 
your evergreen will be welcome holiday decorations anywhere. If                 
you have seed from a treasured variety that you know comes back                 
the same year after year, share some with an equally treasured                  
friend. Write I.O.U.'s for perennials that you will be dividing                 
in the spring so the recipient can plan ahead for the best                      
location.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Handbook on Culinary Herbs, a complete concise manual of herbs                
for cooking, is available from the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens, 1000               
Washington Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11225 for $2.25 plus .80 postage                
and handling. They have an extensive list of handbooks on a                     
variety of horticultural topics. Write them for a complete list.                
                                                                                
* Give a friend a subscription to The Virginia Gardener--an                     
inexpensive way to say "Good Gardening" all year long.                          
                                                                                
* Dust your foliage plants or give them an occasional shower.                   
They'll get more light and grow better without a coating of dust.               
                                                                                
* Don't forget to use some of those vegetables still out in your                
garden--carrots, turnip greens, kale, or other hardy one.                       
                                                                                
* For easy "country candle sticks" cut an assortment of 5 to 7                  
small logs (approximately 2-3 inches in diameter) into lengths                  
from 3 to 6 inches. Drill holes in the log tops the diameter of                 
the candles you plan to use. A collection of these surrounded                   
with pine cones and nuts make an attractive centerpiece for                     
the holidays.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Use hair spray to keep seed heads and dried flowers intact.                   
                                                                                
* Although most people postpone this chore to late winter, grape                
vines can be pruned between Thanksgiving and the end of Decem-                  
ber. Use the long vines to make wreaths, baskets, and other                     
country decorations.                                                            
                                                                                
* Pots of narcissus started indoors now will still bring fra-                   
grance of spring before their outside cousins bloom.                            
                                                                                
* Use branches from discarded Christmas trees to mulch beds of                  
bulbs.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Both live and cut Christmas trees need water while they are                   
inside. Keep live trees indoors for a minimum of time to keep                   
them healthy.                                                                   
                                                                                
* When cutting holly and boxwood for Christmas decorations, use                 
care to prevent harm to your plants. Distribute pruning over                    
entire plant. Limit cutting to mild shaping and thinning.                       
                                                                                
* Use a combination of red and green sweet peppers frozen from                  
last summer's garden to give holiday food a seasonal flair.                     
                                                                                
* The Avant Gardener (P.O. Box 485, New York, NY 10028) gives                   
three useful resource lists for gardeners interested in growing                 
and conserving wildflowers. These are "Nursery Sources for Native               
Plants" and "Botanical Clubs and Native Plant Societies", $2 each               
from the New England Wildflower Society (Hemenway Road, Framing-                
ham, MA 01701), and the new edition of "Sources of Native Seeds                 
and Plants", $2.50 from the Soil Conservation Society of America                
(7515 Ankeny Road, Ankeny, IA 50021)--the last also includes                    
trees and shrubs.                                                               
                                                                                
* Mice chew off the bark of fruit trees at ground level or below                
and often completely girdle a tree causing it to die. To reduce                 
this damage, keep mulch pulled away from the base of the tree and               
examine it frequently for the presence of mice.                                 
                                                                                
* To prevent rabbit damage, roll or bend a strip of 1/4" galvan-                
ized screen (approximately 14" x 18") around the trunk of the                   
tree so that the long side is up and down the trunk and the edges               
overlap. Twist a small wire loosely about the center to prevent                 
the strip from unrolling. Push the lower edges well into the                    
ground. This metal guard will last indefinitely and can be left                 
in place all year.list.                                                         
                                                                                
* Before the snow sticks, do filling and grading around the                     
yard. The loose soil will settle during the cold months.                        
                                                                                
* Fresh nuts of hickory, butternut, and black walnut germinate                  
quite readily if planted outdoors approximately 1" deep. The                    
alternating freezing and thawing splits their hard shells and                   
allows the root to emerge. A small wire cage placed over the nut                
will mark planting spots and keep the squirrels from excavating                 
the seeds.                                                                      
                                                                                
* The more tender plants in rock gardens will benefit from a                    
light covering of evergreen boughs or oak branches retaining                    
their leaves. The purpose of this covering is to lessen dessica-                
tion by wind. Care must be taken not to smother the plants. You                 
should be able to see the plants through the branches.                          
                                                                                
* Early winter is a good time to collect more stones for expand-                
ing the rock garden in spring. The rocks are more visible and the               
solid ground makes a good base on which to haul stone.                          
                                                                                
* Peat moss absorbs moisture very slowly. When it is used in                    
potting soil mixes, break clods apart and moisten the material                  
slightly before incorporating it into the mixture. Ideally,                     
prepare potting soil the day before you use it so the moisture                  
equalizes throughout the mixture.                                               
                                                                                
* Chicory is an easy winter salad plant to force. Plant roots in                
a box and place in a warm, dark place such as your cellar.                      
Keep the soil moderately moist. The shoots will be ready for                    
cutting in 3-5 weeks. Rhubarb roots also respond to this treat-                 
ment.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Check dahlia tubers and gladiolus corms in storage. If they are               
sprouting, place them in a cooler spot. If they show signs of                   
shriveling, rewrap them in ventilated plastic bags. Moldy or                    
damaged roots must be removed and destroyed. Molding indicates                  
over moist conditions. Move healthy bulbs to a location with                    
better ventilation and set in dry peat moss.                                    
                                                                                
* Erect snow deflectors over shrubs under the dripline of houses                
and other buildings to protect them against avalanches off the                  
roof.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Take a few minutes to decorate your home with materials from                  
your yard. Evergreen trees such as pines, junipers, cedar and                   
arborvitae tolerate selective pruning and their fragrance adds a                
holiday touch. Among the broadleaf evergreens, cut holly, laurel,               
and boxwood sprigs.                                                             
                                                                                
* Be unconventional -- offer perennial divisons, seedlings, and                 
shrub volunteers as gifts to your gardening friends.                            
                                                                                
* Ask Santa for a special plant or garden tool for yourself.                    
Begin a collection of your favorite perennials and request a new                
plant every year. If you garden indoors, start a collection of                  
succulents which can be added to yearly.                                        
                                                                                
* For hours of windowside enjoyment, trim a tree for the birds.                 
Tie on dried fruit, suet, and peanut butter covered pine cones                  
rolled in bird seed.                                                            
                                                                                
* On very cold nights, cover cold frames in which semi-hardy                    
plants are being overwintered. Use old carpet scraps, burlap bags               
stuffed with leaves, bales of hay or soil.                                      
                                                                                
* Where snow drifts, plan to plant a windbreak next spring. Ex-                 
periment with a movable barrier to decide the best angle and                    
position for the planting.                                                      
                                                                                
* Keep several jars of sprouts going to keep your family in fresh               
greens all winter long.                                                         
                                                                                
* Move gift plants with caution. Plants shocked by the cold may                 
drop their leaves in a few days and no longer be such a lovely                  
gift. Wrap each plant in ten or more layers of newspaper. If it                 
is freezing outside, warm up the car before loading the plants.                 
                                                                                
* You still have time to make herb vinegars from chives, shallot-               
s, garlic, or any windowsill herbs for the holidays. Use approxi-               
mately 4 oz. of fresh herbs to one quart of wine vinegar. Allow                 
the herbs to infuse for at least two weeks.                                     
                                                                                
* The aim of tree wrapping is to keep the trunk from heating                    
unevenly on bright, sunny winter days. The bark tends to split as               
it cools rapidly after the winter sun has warmed the south and                  
west sides. Use commercially available tree wraps or put up                     
canvas or burlap screens to shade young fruit trees. Even a plank               
leaned up against the south side of the trunk will help. Painting               
trunks with white latex paint is a technique used in orchards                   
which achieves the same purpose. Consider this practice if you                  
have many young tender-barked trees.                                            
November Notes                                                                  
                                                                                
* Dead leaf stalks of perennial vegetables such as asparagus                    
and rhubarb should be cut to the ground after their tops are                    
killed by frost.                                                                
                                                                                
* Before storing your stakes and trellises, be sure they are                    
thoroughly cleaned of remnants of plant materials and dirt. Hose                
down all particularly dirty places. Put stakes in bundles and                   
stack them so they won't get lost over the winter. Roll up                      
trellises and tie them securely.                                                
                                                                                
* When time or weather conditions prohibit plowing or cover                     
cropping, you may wish to let your garden lie under a mulch                     
of compost, plant wastes, or leaves all winter to be plowed                     
or tilled under in the spring. However, if you want to plant                    
early the next spring, a mulch of heavy materials such as whole                 
leaves may become matted and keep the soil cold long enough                     
to delay planting. In this case, chop organic matter fine enough                
that it will break down over winter.                                            
                                                                                
* Clean, oil, and mend all hand tools. Repaint handles or identi-               
fication marks that have faded over the summer. Sharpen all                     
blades and remove any rust.                                                     
                                                                                
* Power tools should be cleaned of all plant material and dirt.                 
Replace worn spark plugs, oil all necessary parts, and sharpen                  
blades. Store all tools in their proper place indoors, never                    
outdoors where they will rust over the winter.                                  
                                                                                
* Select accent plants for your landscape that will provide                     
interesting autumn colors. Trees which turn red include dogwood,                
red maple, sweet gum, and red or scarlet oak. Shrubs with red                   
fall foliage include viburnum, winged euonymous, and barberry.                  
                                                                                
* Many perennials and rock garden plants may be planted or                      
divided and replanted during the fall. Set them out early enough                
to establish their roots before the ground freezes.                             
                                                                                
* Remove leaves from the gutters of your home to avoid overflow                 
during fall rains. Paint the inside of the gutters with rust                    
resistant paint. You will extend their life for many years by                   
this treatment.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Peonies can be planted now in full sun and fertile, well-drain-               
ed soil rich in organic matter. Dig holes 18" and fill halfway                  
with a mixture of soil, compost, and a handful of 5-10-10                       
fertilizer. Add a few more inches of soil and set the tubers so                 
the buds are 1-2" below the soil surface. Backfill, firm the                    
soil, and water thoroughly. Peonies resent being moved and will                 
not bloom for several years. So, disturb only if necessary.                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
* Reduce peony botrytis blight and hollyhock rust by removing                   
and burning all old stems this fall. This will reduce the                       
carry-over of the diseases during the winter and you will have                  
less trouble next year.                                                         
                                                                                
* Reduce mouse damage to shrubs and young fruit trees by removing               
the mulch from around the stem. A ring of crushed stone extending               
out about 8" from the stem will be helpful.                                     
                                                                                
* Avoid transplanting shrubs and trees on sunny or windy days. On               
these days, the roots are exposed to too much light or drying                   
winds which puts undue stress on the plant.                                     
                                                                                
* Water pipes and outdoor faucets in the garden or patio should                 
be drained before cold weather occurs to prevent damage by freez-               
ing. Check guy wires around newly planted trees to be sure they                 
will not be damaged by windy weather during the fall and winter.                
                                                                                
* After the ground freezes, mulch small fruit plants such as                    
strawberries. One inch of straw or leaves is ideal for straw-                   
berries. Small branches may be used to keep mulch in place.                     
                                                                                
* After chrysanthemums have stopped blooming, cut stems back                    
close to the ground and dispose of stems and all dropped and                    
dried leaves and branches.                                                      
                                                                                
* The best way to prevent winter damage to shrubs is to select                  
hardy species when they are planted. Consult publications which                 
contain information on the climatic zones to which shrubs are                   
adapted. It is better to select hardy species in the first place                
than to attempt to protect tender plants later on.                              
                                                                                
* Watch for standing water in perennial beds after long periods                 
of rain. Water which collects on the surface during winter will                 
freeze and may damage perennials. Dig shallow trenches to help                  
drain excess water away. Make a note to raise that bed in spring.               
                                                                                
* Dig up a vigorous rhubarb crown now if you are planning on                    
forcing stalks later this winter.                                               
                                                                                
* Protect concrete pools by covering them, or by floating logs                  
in the water. Drain the water before freezing weather and place                 
a few boards or logs on the pool bottom to absorb the expansion                 
of freezing water that might accumulate.                                        
                                                                                
* Protect the roots of azaleas and rhododendrons with a heavy                   
mulch of acidic materials such as oak leaves, sawdust, or peat                  
moss.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Broadleaf evergreens may need to be protected to prevent drying               
out during the winter. Branches of pines or other evergreens                    
thrust into the ground around the plants work well. Where boughs                
are not plentiful, a screen of wooden boards, corn stalks or                    
burlap tacked to wooden frames will serve the purpose.                          
* Caulk and plug any entrances around the home used by wasps                    
this past summer.                                                               
                                                                                
* If there is any evidence of scale on trees and shrubs, spray                  
with dormant oil in late fall and again in early spring.                        
                                                                                
* Remove grass and weeds from trunks of fruit trees and grapes                  
to prevent damage by mice and rodents. Leave a bare circle one                  
foot wide around tree trunks when spreading mulch to keep mice                  
from feeding on the bark. A collar or fence of poultry wire                     
or a commercial tree guard approximately 18" high will deter                    
rodents and rabbits.                                                            
                                                                                
* Newly planted shade trees especially those with smooth bark                   
are often injured by temperature fluctuations and strong winter                 
sunshine. Prevent sunscald by wrapping the tree trunks with                     
commercial tree wrap, 4" burlap strips, or simply shading with                  
a board against the south side of the trunk.                                    
                                                                                
* If you are planning on having a live, balled and burlapped                    
Christmas tree, dig a planting hole now before the ground                       
freezes. Fill the hole with straw or hay to keep it from freez-                 
ing. Storing the soil in a garage or shed will give you workable                
soil when you need it.                                                          
                                                                                
* Earthworms must remain below frost line to survive. Mulch                     
piled on top of soil raises the frost line. If you want earth-                  
worms to help break down organice matter in the upper soil                      
layers, mulch deeply. If you need the subsoil aerated, leave the                
surface mulch thin; the worms will burrow downward to stay warm.                
                                                                                
* To prevent strawberries from heaving, apply straw or hay mulch                
2 to 5 inches deep after the ground freezes.                                    
October Notes                                                                   
                                                                                
* If the weather stays dry enough before the ground freezes,                    
you can plow. Fall plowing allows earlier planting in the spring                
and is especially good for heavy soils since they are exposed                   
to the freezing and thawing action of winter. This will help                    
improve your soil's structure.                                                  
                                                                                
* Remove any diseased or insect-infested plant material from                    
your garden; it may harbor overwintering stages of disease and                  
insect pests. If you leave this plant material in your garden,                  
you are leaving diseases and insects which will begin to reprod-                
uce again next spring and add to next year's pest problem.                      
                                                                                
* The bitter, golf-ball sized fruits of the trifoliate orange                   
(Poncirus trifoliate) may have some uses after all. Sections                    
of the fruit in hot tea have been reported as tastier than lemon                
and the entire fruit make an attractive, miniature pomander                     
when filled with cloves and covered with spices.                                
                                                                                
* Pumpkins which are free from insects, disease or damage will                  
keep 2-3 months if stored at 50-55 degrees F with a relative                    
humidity of 70-75%.                                                             
                                                                                
* Use coldframes to overwinter cuttings of trees and shrubs                     
and perennial seedlings started in mid to late summer. Bulbs                    
prepared for forcing can also be stored in coldframes until                     
time to take indoors.                                                           
                                                                                
* Fertilize trees and shrubs that have shown signs of weak growth               
after they are dormant but before soil temperature drops below                  
45 degrees F.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Water trees and shrubs well to increase winter hardiness.                     
                                                                                
* Move and divide crowded perennials. Arrange for swaps with                    
friends and neighbors.                                                          
                                                                                
* Bring in cannas, dahlias, and gladiolas if not hardy in your                  
area after the tops are hurt by frost. Dry, clean, and store                    
in peat moss or vermiculite in a cool location free from frost.                 
                                                                                
* Treat magnolia and beech leaves for dried flower arrangements                 
in a mixture of 1/3 glycerine, 2/3 warm water. Crush stems and                  
submerge 3 weeks to produce a rich, glossy brown foliage.                       
                                                                                
* Remove leaves from lawn to reduce lawn problems. Compost or                   
save for next year's mulch.                                                     
                                                                                
* Clean up home orchard and small fruit plantings. Sanitation                   
is essential for good maintenance. Dried fruits or "mummies"                    
carry disease organisms through the winter to attack next year's                
crop.                                                                           
                                                                                
* If you have a sunny area to naturalize with small flowering                   
annuals, sow seeds of sweet alyssum or johnny-jump-ups. They                    
will come up this fall or early spring and bloom extra early                    
next spring. Both are very hardy and self-seed readily to                       
maintain the natural area.                                                      
                                                                                
* In deciding on new trees or shrubs to plant around your home,                 
remember to select varieties with a mature height to fit the                    
desired location. This will greatly reduce pruning and other                    
maintenance in the future.                                                      
                                                                                
* House plants will slow down growth as the days get shorter                    
and light intensity is reduced. This means that they will need                  
less frequent watering and fertilizing until next spring. Too                   
much of either in the winter months can cause weak growth.                      
                                                                                
* Make a note of plants displaying outstanding fall colors                      
as you drive along city streets and the surrounding countryside.                
You may wish to incorporate some of them into your own landscape.               
Fall color can often be enjoyed for much longer than the plant's                
flowers in the spring. For this reason, it may be more desirable                
when selecting trees and shrubs for landscape use to plan                       
greater emphasis on their fall features.                                        
                                                                                
* A great deal of winter losses is the result of plants being                   
allowed to become dry during this season.  This is especially                   
true of evergreens because they hold their leaves and lose water                
all during the winter. If the weather is at all dry, water right                
up to the time the ground freezes hard.                                         
                                                                                
* Do not become alarmed if you yews, pines, arborvitae and                      
junipers begin to shed their innermost needles. It is natural                   
for them to do so at this time of year.                                         
                                                                                
* As you plant your spring bulbs, remember that a mass planting                 
of one flower type or color will produce a better effect than a                 
mixture of many colors. Flowers of bulbs stand out more vividly                 
if displayed against a contrasting background: for example, white               
hyacinths among English ivy, yellow daffodils against a `Burford'               
holly hedge, or red tulips towering over a carpet of yellow                     
pansies.                                                                        
                                                                                
* A lily bulb is never dormant; it must be planted as soon as it                
is received. Have beds prepared ahead of time.                                  
                                                                                
* Allow a few of the seeds of your favorite delphinium and holly-               
hock to ripen on their stalks. When mature, plant the seeds                     
at once in a garden bed where they will grow into husky little                  
plants that winter well.                                                        
                                                                                
* To beat birds, squirrels, and other pests to your crops, prompt               
harvest is a must. This month harvest pecans, grapes, and                       
pawpaws.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Bring out the bird feeders and stock them with treats for the                 
birds. Remember to provide fresh water for your feathered                       
friends.                                                                        
                                                                                
* A plant or two of parsley taken from the garden and potted up                 
will do well all winter if watered and set in a sunny window.                   
Chives, sage, and thyme can also be maintained in this manner.                  
                                                                                
* Get the cold frame ready for cuttings you may have rooted in                  
summer. The cold frame is also a good place to root bulbs grown                 
in containers to force into bloom this winter.                                  
                                                                                
* If your climbing roses are in an exposed location, tie them up                
firmly with broad strips of rags so that the wind will not whip                 
them against the trellis and bruise the bark.                                   
                                                                                
* Fall is an excellent time for taking soil samples in your lawn                
and garden.  Soil tests will measure the acidity or alkalinity of               
the soil and the levels of some of the major elements required                  
for plant growth: phosphorus, and potassium. Where lime is                      
needed, now is a good time to apply it.                                         
                                                                                
* Do not use quick acting fertilizers in preparing beds during                  
the fall. They will be leached away before spring. Use materials                
which act slowly and last a long time, such as bone meal.                       
                                                                                
* Mow lawn for as long as it continues to grow to prevent matting               
through the winter which encourages root rots.                                  
                                                                                
September Monthly Notes                                                         
                                                                                
* An easy indoor plant watering system can be designed by                       
inserting an asbestos-glass water wick into one of the drainage                 
holes of a pot. Old nylon stockings can be braided and used                     
instead. Set the pot on a water reservoir made from heavy plastic               
such as large-sized whipped margarine containers. Prepare the                   
lid by making two holes; one for the wick to reach the water,                   
and a larger one for supplying fresh water. This is a highly                    
efficient system for carefree watering. However, the plants                     
should be periodically watered from the top to flush accumulated                
minerals from the soil.                                                         
                                                                                
* Don't overlook excellent sources of organic material available                
during the fall. Leaves are abundant and neighbors will usually                 
be glad to give their leaves to you. Plow some into the garden                  
now and store some for next year's mulch.                                       
                                                                                
* You can help leaves break down more easily by running a lawn                  
mover back and forth over the pile. Put the shredded leaves                     
directly onto the garden or compost pile.                                       
                                                                                
* Cover crops can be planted as early as August 1, but should                   
not be planted any later than November 1. They should make some                 
growth before hard frost kills them. Where you have fall crops                  
growing, you can sow cover crop seed between rows a month or                    
less before expected harvest. This way, the cover crop gets                     
a good start but will not interfere with vegetable plant growth.                
                                                                                
* If you plan to move some of your chives indoors this winter,                  
this is the time to pot them up. When dividing your outdoor                     
plants, select young, mature plants and pot 8 to 10 per 6"                      
pot. They will do best on a sunny windowsill.                                   
                                                                                
* Sowing seeds of hardy annuals such as sweet alyssum, pinks                    
and sweet peas will give the seedlings time to get established                  
and develop good root systems before the coldest part of winter.                
This gives them a head start on growth and flowering next spring.               
                                                                                
* Take cuttings of such annual bedding plants as begonias,                      
coleus, geraniums and impatiens. Rooted indoors, these overwinter               
in a bright window and give plants for next year's garden.                      
                                                                                
* If you enjoy growing wild flowers, now is the time to collect                 
seed for your garden from many of the summer flowering types.                   
                                                                                
* When using a cold frame to extend your harvest season, be                     
sure to close the top for frosty nights to protect the plants                   
from the cold. When the sun comes out the next morning and the                  
air warms, you can open the cold frame again.                                   
                                                                                
* Fall is a good time for planting. Researchers have concluded                  
that the last safe planting date is approximately 4 weeks before                
soil temperatures fall to 40 degrees which inhibits root develop-               
ment. For plants which are marginally hardy and hard-to-trans-                  
plant, this date should be early.                                               
                                                                                
* Wood ashes contain phosphorous, calcium and potassium and                     
can be placed on garden, flower beds, or spread on lawn but                     
don't overdo it. Avoid acid-loving plants as it raises the pH.                  
                                                                                
* A green manure or cover crop improves water infiltration,                     
reduces soil erosion, reduces nutrient leaching and promotes                    
the growth of microorganisms. Annual rye can be sown at the                     
rate of 15.2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. during September and October.                
A light fertilization with 1-2 lbs. of 5-10-10 will generally                   
increase plant growth.                                                          
                                                                                
* The tomato variety Long Keeper has received high acclaim by                   
home gardeners who have successfully kept fruit past the first                  
of the new year in parts of Virginia.                                           
                                                                                
* Before moving your houseplants back inside from their outdoor                 
summer, take time to wash your windows. Not only will it be                     
easier without plants in the way, it will make considerably                     
more light available and help your plants adjust to their new                   
lower light regime.                                                             
                                                                                
* Don't wait for frost warnings to move your plants indoors. Tem-               
peratures of 50 degrees or lower can damage many tropical                       
houseplants.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Dried beans and peas are among the easiest crops to store. They               
will keep for many months in a cool, dry location. Control                      
weevils before storage by placing in a freezer at 0 degrees F or                
lower for 4 days, or heat to 180 degrees F for at least 15                      
minutes. Following this treatment, place the dry beans or peas in               
a tight container and place in a cool, dry place.                               
                                                                                
* Winter type pumpkins and squash such as acorn, butternut and                  
spaghetti may keep for several months in a cool, medium-dry                     
basement, garage or tool shed. Allow the fruit to ripen fully                   
on the vine, and cure in the sun to form a hard rind. Harvest                   
before frost, and leave a piece of stem on each when they are                   
cut from the vine. If the floor is damp, place pumpkins and                     
squash on shelves to reduce the possibility of rot. The best                    
storage temperature is about 60 degrees F.                                      
                                                                                
* Sweet potatoes will keep for several months in a medium dry                   
basement. Handle sweet potatoes very carefully to avoid bruising                
or cutting. Cure for about 10 days at 80 degrees F or for 20                    
days at 70 degrees F to dry and toughen the skin. This can be                   
done near the furnace in your basement. Store under medium dry                  
conditions at 60 degrees F, or as close to this temperature                     
as possible. Sort your sweet potatoes carefully every few weeks                 
and remove any that may start to decay.                                         
                                                                                
* Hot peppers will keep best if stored after they are dry. Pull                 
the plants and hang them up, or pick the peppers and thread                     
on a string. Store in any cool, dry place.                                      
                                                                                
* Green tomatoes may be stored for 4 to 6 weeks and will gradual-               
ly ripen to a nice red color. The best storage conditions are                   
about 60 degrees F and a moderately moist atmosphere. Harvest the               
tomatoes in a firm, green condition before frost. Remove the                    
stems to prevent puncturing other fruits. Wash dirt off rather                  
than wiping, which may cause skin scratches which will be                       
susceptible to decay. If the basement is quite dry, the tomatoes                
may be placed in film bags, or film-lined boxes to increase the                 
humidity. Sort the fruit every week to remove those which ripen                 
or start to decay.                                                              
                                                                                
* Dig out the list of spring flowering bulbs you made last spring               
and start getting them into the ground so you can be among the                  
blissful rather than wistful as next winter snows begin to                      
melt. If you did not get a list started last spring, a few bulbs                
to consider for starters are Snowflake, Glory-of-the-Snow,                      
Snowdrops, and Winter Aconite.                                                  
                                                                                
* Divide lilies-of-the-valley.  Mix bone meal in the soil before                
replanting.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Plant new Madonna lilies as soon as they arrive.  Do not plant                
deeper than two inches from top of bulb to ground level.  Set                   
bulb in sand.                                                                   
                                                                                
* As the nights become cool, caladiums will begin to lose leaves.               
Dig up, dry, and store in a warm, dry place to prevent rot.                     
This space can be replanted with Christmas peppers or Jerusalem                 
cherry plants which have been grown from seed in pots sunk in the               
vegetable garden, or transplant mums that have been grown to                    
flower size in the vegetable garden.                                            
                                                                                
* Mums can be transplanted while in bloom which makes them useful               
for instant landscapes in early Autumn.  Dig plants carefully                   
after thorough watering, retaining as much of the root system as                
feasible.  Gently loosen a small amount of soil from the outer                  
soil depth.  Water thoroughly to set plants in.  As with any                    
transplanting, it is best to do this in early morning or late                   
evening when temperatures are cool. Monitor plants carefully for                
several days for wilting, and shade briefly during the hotter                   
periods of the day, if necessary.                                               
                                                                                
* For early blooms in May and June next year, certain annuals can               
be sown now, including larkspur, nigella, calendula, Shirley                    
poppies, annual scabious, and coreopsis.  Sown in the open, they                
should be well established by the time the cold weather comes.                  
                                                                                
* Plant tubers of both garden and tree peonies in September or                  
early October so they will have time to become established in the               
soil before winter.  Dig a hole 18 inches across and 18 inches                  
deep for each tuber. Space the holes so that the plants will be                 
at least 3 feet apart.  Pile loose soil at the side of the hole                 
and break up all lumps.                                                         
                                                                                
* If pesky seedlings of woody plants, such as elm or hackberry,                 
are found growing in your hedge, remove them as soon as possible.               
If left too long, they will take over and leaves gaps in the                    
hedge when they are finally removed.                                            
                                                                                
* Check grapevines for mummied berries - victims of black rot.                  
Pick them and dispose of (do not compost) before they can spread                
the disease.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Rake up leaves, twigs, and fruit from crabapple trees and                     
dispose of them in the trash to help control scab.                              
                                                                                
* Pot up chives, parsley and other herbs to extend the growing                  
season in the house.                                                            
                                                                                
* Harvesting guidelines: PEARS should be picked at the hard ripe                
stage, and allowed to finish ripening off the tree.  The base                   
color of yellow pears should change from green to yellow as                     
the fruit approaches maturity. APPLES should separate readily                   
from the trees when lifted gently upwards.                                      
                                                                                
* The gardening season can be extended well into the winter.                    
Lettuce, cress, radishes, endive, and spinach can all be grown in               
the well-known structure, the coldframe.  In cooler weather,                    
insulate the outer sides of the box with banked soil or sawdust.                
Cover the top with sacks stuffed with straw or other insulation                 
during cold nights.                                                             
                                                                                
* Fall is usually cool and moist and a good time to plant trees                 
and shrubs.  Research has shown that roots will continue to grow                
until the soil freezes, which is about Thanksgiving.  This is                   
true for both evergreens and deciduous plants. The best time for                
lawn construction is from mid-August to mid-September for                       
cool-season grasses.  Seeding at this time allows for a long                    
fall growing period, when temperatures and moisture conditions                  
are most favorable and weed competition is at a minimum.  By the                
time cold weather arrives, the grass is fairly well established                 
and ready to grow and thicken early the following spring.                       
                                                                                
* Perennial flowers which will bloom in September include:                      
Biglow sneezeweed (Helenium biglovi), hardy asters, hardy                       
chrysanthemums, showy stonecrop (Sedum spectabile), false                       
dragonhead (Physostagia virgianana), bigleaf sea lavender                       
(Limonium latifolium), and great azure sage (Salvia pitcheri).                  
                                                                                
* Spray cabbage, broccoli, and caulifower with BT (bacillus                     
thuringiensis) once a week through harvest to avoid cabbage                     
loopers.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Allow plants to finish the summer growth cycle in a normal                    
manner. Never encourage growth with heavy applications of                       
fertilizer or excessive pruning at this time.  Plants will                      
quickly delay their hardening process that has already begun in                 
anticipation of winter several months ahead.  New growth can be                 
injured by an early freeze.                                                     
AUGUST NOTES                                                                    
                                                                                
* The last fall garden vegetables should be planted in August                   
in most sections of Virginia. For hardy crops like cabbage,                     
cauliflower, and collard, count back from your average first                    
frost date the number of days the particular variety requires                   
to mature and plant at that time. For half-hardy crops like                     
beets and carrots, allow an additional week. For tender crops                   
like beans and sweet corn, allow an extra 2 weeks to be sure                    
an early frost does not kill your vegetables before they mature.                
                                                                                
* If going on vacation this month, be sure to harvest all your                  
vegetables and then arrange for someone to pick such fast-maturing              
crops as squash and okra; otherwise, they will become over-mature               
and stop producing.                                                             
                                                                                
* Potatoes continue to grow as long as the tops are green. Dig                  
only as many as you need for immediate use. The tubers will                     
keep better in the ground than in a warm, dry home.                             
                                                                                
* Be sure to mow the lawn before going on vacation. If you will                 
be gone over two weeks, arrange to have it cut while you are                    
away. If you don't, too much of the top growth will be removed                  
on its next mowing. Removal of over 2/3 of the growth at one                    
time weakens the plant.                                                         
                                                                                
* Cut strawflowers for winter use when the blooms are only half                 
open. Hang head down in a well-ventilated place to dry.                         
                                                                                
* Don't let your hybrid annual flowers go to seed. This weakens                 
the plant and reduces bloom. In addition, the seed are not desirable            
to save as the plant will ordinarily be very different from                     
the parent and of poorer quality.                                               
                                                                                
* Do not add weeds with ripened seed heads to your compost pile. Many           
will remain viable and germinate wherever the compost is used                   
next year.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Order your spring-flowering bulbs now! Be careful about buying                
so-called "bargains," as the bulbs may be small or of inferior                  
quality.                                                                        
                                                                                
* An effective biological control agent for verticillium, one                   
of the world's worst crop diseases, is being tested by scientists               
at USDA'S Agricultural Research Service (ARS). The biocontrol                   
agent is a fungus  Talaromyces flavus that fights other fungi,                  
especially those that cause the disease.                                        
                                                                                
* Pinch off onion seed pods from the top of the plants to keep                  
them from going to seed.                                                        
                                                                                
* Pick winter squash and pumpkins with two or three inches of                   
stem; they'll keep better in storage.                                           
                                                                                
* Landscape plants, particularly trees, have important dollar                   
value and steps should be taken if anything damages or destroys                 
them. A folder is available for 10 cents from The Council of                    
Tree and Landscape Appraisers (232 Southern Bldg., Washington,                  
D.C. 20005) to help homeowners understand this value.                           
                                                                                
* August is the time to fertilize your strawberries. On plants                  
set out this spring, apply 4 to 6 ounces of ammonium nitrate                    
(33% actual nitrogen) or 12-18 oz. of 10-10-10- per 25 ft. of                   
row. Spread uniformly in a band 14" wide over the row when the                  
foliage is dry. Brush fertilizer off the leaves to avoid leaf                   
burn. For plants in the second year of growth, increase the                     
application rate to 6 to 8 oz. ammonium nitrate or 18-24 oz. of                 
10-10-10- per 25 ft. row.                                                       
                                                                                
* Select a good site for spring flower bulbs. For daffodils                     
dig the soil twelve inches deep in a sunny location. Work in                    
bone meal and peat moss.                                                        
                                                                                
* It's not too late to plant a fall garden. Lettuce, radishes,                  
spinach, turnip, and peas can be started from seed. Chinese                     
cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower transplants will still have                  
time to produce a good harvest. Be extra diligent in watching                   
for pests on these crops.                                                       
                                                                                
* Many plants in the flower border will make excellent house                    
plants this winter. Among the easy-to-maintain indoors, are                     
begonias, coleus, geraniums, and ivy. If they are already being                 
grown in containers, it is a simple matter to bring them in-                    
doors. Start moving them indoors at night when the temperature                  
drops below 60 degrees F to maintain their vigor and flower                     
production. Locate them where they receive sunlight equivalent                  
to what they received out-of-doors for optimum bloom.                           
                                                                                
* Many plants growing in the ground can be successfully dug                     
and placed in pots. However, this is generally more difficult                   
and usually requires a severe pruning to insure survival. Some                  
plants are slow to recover from such treatment and may not give                 
good flowers during the winter.                                                 
                                                                                
* Cuttings from these plants started in late August and early                   
September should make attractive, bushy pot plants before frosts                
kill the parent plant.                                                          
                                                                                
* Plant a winter cover crop to enrich your garden soil. Annual                  
rye, red clover, and hairy vetch are good choices. Plant between                
August 1 and November 1. Sow seeds in unused portions of the                    
garden after the last summer harvest or between the row of your                 
fall crops.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Plan changes in your perennial plantings. Autumn is usually                   
the best time for moving and dividing perennials as the gardening               
pace has slowed considerably and it offers the opportunity to                   
add new bulbs to your design. Peonies, Bleeding heart, and Oriental             
poppies resent being disturbed, so plan to work around them                     
without disturbance.                                                            
                                                                                
* Inspect your house plants for signs of insect damage. Pest                    
control is much easier and safer while the plants are outside                   
for the summer than after you bring them in this fall.                          
                                                                                
* Plant bulbs of the Hardy Amaryllis or Magic Lily in August                    
as soon as received at a depth of 5". They will produce foliage                 
in the spring which dies down by late summer. The lily-like,                    
pink flowers borne on three-foot stalks in clusters of six to                   
nine will appear in August. The bulbs will live almost indefinitely             
and prefer not to be disturbed.                                                 
                                                                                
* Keep tall flowers staked and cut out dead stalks.                             
                                                                                
* Keep roots of lilies cool for best growth.  Unless foliage                    
of surrounding plants shades the roots,mulch the ground with                    
grass clippings or similar weed-free material.                                  
                                                                                
* Do not mulch oriental poppies.  They prefer hot, sun-baked                    
ground while "resting."                                                         
                                                                                
* Do not allow phlox to go to seed.  Seedlings do not come true                 
to parent color and may overtake your planting, giving the impression           
that the parent plants have reverted.                                           
                                                                                
* Disbudding chrysanthemums produces larger blooms.  Most mums,                 
except spray types, respond well to disbudding.                                 
                                                                                
* Fressia corms can be planted early this month for December                    
flowering.  Plant 2 inches deep in pots, then place out of doors                
in a shady place.                                                               
                                                                                
* Apples and pears trained as cordons and espaliers and other                   
formal shapes can be summer pruned in early August.                             
                                                                                
* Prop branches of fruit trees that are threatening to break                    
under increasing weight of ripening fruit.                                      
                                                                                
* Fall is the time to rejuvenate or plant home lawns.                           
                                                                                
* Inspect trunks and branches of dogwood for injured bark or                    
fine dust being pushed from burrows in trunk by borers.                         
                                                                                
* Keep newly planted trees and shrubs well watered.                             
                                                                                
* Root cuttings of woody shrubs and evergreens, azaleas, holly,                 
hydrangea, and  verbena should do well at this time of year.                    
                                                                                
* Check for lacewing on azalea, rhododendron and pyracantha.                    
They suck juice from the underside and cause white speckling                    
on upper surfaces.                                                              
                                                                                
* Leaf miner's larvae tunnel inside leaves and produce whitish                  
trails as they move about inside leaf.  Holly, boxwood, and                     
locust are particularly susceptible to damage.                                  
                                                                                
* Water shrubs well deeply once a week during August.  Many                     
plants (camellias, rhododendrons) are starting next season's                    
bloom at this time.  Immature berries of hollies and pyracantha                 
may be lost if too dry.                                                         
                                                                                
* If azaleas look chlorotic (pale green to yellow) check pH. They               
need acid soil as alkalinity locks up soil iron needed for green                
color.  Sulfur reduces pH.                                                      
                                                                                
* Take cuttings of roses to root, 6-9 inches long.  Using a                     
sharp knife, remove all but top 2-3 leaves, insert 4-6 inches                   
down in well-prepared soil in bright light out of the sun.                      
Firm, water well, cover with inverted glass jar.                                
                                                                                
* Remove bedding plants that have definately finished blooming                  
for the season.  Replace with annuals or mums.                                  
                                                                                
* Locate manure to compost for next spring.                                     
                                                                                
* Every weed that ripens seed means more trouble next year. Control             
weeds now.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Herbs can still be harvested and used for a multitude of purposes.            
                                                                                
* Sow annuals for winter flowering indoors if you have a                        
greenhouse or bright southern window.  Calendulas bloom well                    
and keep long.  Browallia, mignonette, ageratum, marigolds,                     
snapdragons and many others are good subjects.                                  
                                                                                
* Go over all the coldframe sashes and greenhouse glazing, replacing            
broken glass, puttying and repainting.                                          
                                                                                
* If you are planning to take some garden plants indoors to                     
provide for early fall bloom, use a sharp knife to root prune                   
them now to a size a little smaller than the pot.  Remove all                   
buds and flowers and cut back the top growth severely.  Water                   
well until ready to lift.                                                       
                                                                                
* Look over the house plants which are summering out of doors                   
to see that they are not suffering for want of water.  Be careful               
not to disturb those now going through their rest periods.                      
                                                                                
* If you do not have a coldframe, now is a good time to plan                    
one.                                                                            
                                                                                
* It is just as necessary to prune vines as other plants.  All                  
unproductive wood should be removed.  This will give room for                   
the more vigorous shoots and promote the general welfare of                     
the plants.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Many self-sown seedlings of Hollyhocks, Larkspur, Columbine,                  
Sweet William, etc. are now appearing.  If the parent plant                     
is not a hybrid, these should be carefully guarded, for here                    
is a way to stretch your garden budget.                                         
1                                                                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
                          SELECTED VEGETABLE CROPS                              
      CULTURE NOTES GUIDE                                                       
0     Individual plant sheets have been developed to provide an easy to         
      use guide,  a  summary of a wide range  of information concerning         
      the culture,  nutritional value,  harvest,and storage of specific         
      food  crops.    They   are  not  intended  to   be  comprehensive         
      references, and you may need to consult other materials to obtain         
      very detailed information.    In most cases,  though,   the plant         
      sheets should  provide you  with enough  know-how to  get a  crop         
      through from seed to harvest.                                             
0     The following key will help to  explain the various terms on each         
      food crop fact sheet.                                                     
0     ENVIRONMENTAL PREFERENCES                                                 
0     LIGHT:  sunny (requires direct light at least six hours per day;          
              prefers 8-10 hours/day ) sunshine  per day, but probably          
              needs at least 5 hours/day )  prefers shade  ( more than          
              six hours of direct sunlight  may  be  harmful;  prefers          
              filtered  light,  probably  needs  at least 3-4 hours of          
              light per day)                                                    
0     SOIL:   well-drained (water does not stand or remain puddled for          
              more than 24 hours after a hard rain )  deep  ( at least          
              8-12"  of topsoil or loose subsoil; no shallow hardpan )          
              loam ( soil composed roughly  of equal portions  of clay          
              and sand, with a reasonable amount of humus; good garden          
              soils)                                                            
0     FERTILITY:  results  of soil  tests  can be used to indicate the          
              basic  fertility level of soils.   Soil testing does not          
              indicate nitrogen levels due to variability.                      
0                    lbs./acre P O      lbs./acre K  O                          
                     low     0-25 lbs.      0-90 lbs.                           
                     medium  6-85 lbs.     9-212 lbs.                           
                     high    86+ lbs.       213+ lbs.                           
0             acidity or alkalinity of the soil. 7.0 is neutral, below          
              7.0 is acid, above 7.0 is alkaline                                
0     TEMPERATURE: Approximate ranges of daily  mean  temperature  pre-         
                   ferred for optimum growth                                    
0     MOISTURE: Amount  of  rainfall  or  supplemental watering  needed         
              for optimum  growth;  more  for  sandy  soils,  less  for         
              clay average ( roughly  one  inch  of  water  per  week )         
1                                                                               
                                                                                
              moist (roughly 1-2" water per week; soil should  be well-         
              drained)                                                          
0     CULTURE                                                                   
0     PLANTING:  specific information needed to get plants started, such        
              as  when to  seed,  whether to  start plants indoors, best        
              transplant time, etc.                                             
0     SPACING:  optimum distances between plants and rows .                     
0     HARDINESS:  very  hardy perennial (can withstand winter extremes in       
              most parts of Virginia with only slight protection).  Hardy       
              perennial (can withstand winters with protection in               
              colder areas).                                                    
0             hardy annual (can withstand frosts in spring and fall; may        
              need protection from heavy frosts or freezing)                    
0             half-hardy annual (can withstand light frosts, but not heavy      
              frosts or freezing)                                               
0             tender annual (frost will seriously damage plant tissue)          
0             very tender annual (frost will destroy plant tissues; needs       
              warm weather for growth)                                          
0     FERTILIZER NEEDS:  low, medium, or heavy feeder (refers to relative       
              levels  of nutrient uptake from the soil.                         
0     This information can be used to group similar types of plants, so         
      that  fertilizers  may  be  applied to  sections  of  the  garden         
      according to plant needs).                                                
0     CULTURAL PRACTICES:  Gives general  growing  information. Includes        
              proven methods for increasing production and/or decreasing        
              pest   problems.   Unique   growing   suggestions  may  be        
              included.                                                         
0     COMMON PROBLEMS                                                           
0     This section  gives a general list  of the most  common diseases,         
      insects  and  cultural problems  of  the  crop  in the  state  of         
      Virginia.  Identify the cause of the problem, review non-chemical         
      and preventative control information,  then refer to current Pest         
      Management Guides  or contact your  extension agent  for specific         
      chemical control information.                                             
0     HARVESTING AND STORAGE                                                    
0     APPROXIMATE YIELDS: (These figures vary according to the variety,         
              local environmental  conditions,  planting  designs,  and         
              cultural practices.)                                              
1                                                                               
                                                                                
      AMOUNT TO RAISE PER PERSON:  (These figures are  average  ranges.         
              Specific amounts will vary depending on projected  usage,         
              whether fresh  or  processed,  and  according to personal         
              preferences.)                                                     
0     STORAGE: (Optimum  storage  conditions;  gives temperature ranges         
              and % RH - percent relative humidity.)                            
0     PRESERVATION:  ( Suggestions for preserving the crop over an  ex-         
              tended  period.  See  extention   publications   on  food         
              preservation  for specific methods.)                              
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
December Press Releases                                                         
                                                                                
Cranberries                               51 lines                              
Caring for Live Christmas Trees           47 lines                              
Minigreenhouse Project for Children       36 lines                              
Decorating with Houseplants               50 lines                              
Gift Plants Continue Giving               54 lines                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
CRANBERRIES                                                                     
                                                                                
     The cranberry is a traditional part of our menu and decora-                
tions during the Christmas holiday season. It is native to the                  
northeastern United States, and its commercial production is                    
confined primarily to this country. Practically the entire crop                 
is consumed in the U.S. with very small quantities being ex-                    
ported.                                                                         
     Cranberry production is a very specialized business. The                   
plants grow only in acid bogs or swampy areas, which are of no                  
value for other agricultural use. Almost half of the worlds'                    
supply is grown in Massachusetts. A few scattered fields are                    
found in Virginia, but there are no really important commercial                 
plantings in the state.                                                         
     Cranberries are not cultivated as are most horticultural                   
crops. They are grown as a solid mass of trailing evergreen                     
vines in a low flat bog, criss-crossed with drainage ditches. The               
thick mass of plants suppresses the growth of weeds.                            
     Although the cranberry is native to the cold northern                      
states, they are not extremely hardy. In their natural locations                
in bogs, the plants are usually covered by water during the                     
winter, which protects them from the cold. The commercial grower                
secures the same result by flooding his planting from November                  
until March.                                                                    
     Another reason why cranberries grow in wet swampy locations                
is that the plants have no root hairs for water intake. The                     
plants absorb water directly through the epidermis or outer layer               
of cells on the root.                                                           
     With such unusual production requirements, you can under-                  
stand why cranberries are not suggested as a crop for home                      
gardeners. In some localities you may be able to pick native                    
berries, but the best way to secure fine flavored fruit is from                 
your local food market.                                                         
     A unique aspect of cranberry production is the grading of                  
the crop. Whereas we handle most fruits with care to avoid                      
bruising, cranberries are deliberately dropped on a hard board                  
to separate the good from the bad berries. When the berries are                 
at their ideal stage of ripeness, they are firm and resilient.                  
The fruit is poured in a thin stream onto a sloping board. The                  
high quality berries bounce over a partition into a container.                  
The green and soft berries do not bounce, but roll down into a                  
bin for low grade fruit and are discarded.                                      
     The delicious unusual flavor of cranberries adds real zip to               
holiday meals. You may start with cranberry juice, cocktail, or                 
salad. Use cranberry sauce, jelly, or relish as a complement for                
meat, fish, or fowl. And close the meal with cranberry pie,                     
pudding, tarts, or cobbler.                                                     
     Cranberries are not only delicious, they are good for you.                 
They contain beneficial levels of vitamin A, ascorbic acid, and                 
thiamine. They also have an energy value of 26 calories per 100                 
grams.                                                                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
CARING FOR LIVE CHRISTMAS TREES                                                 
                                                                                
     Many Virginians continue enjoying their Christmas trees                    
long after the holiday season has passed. These persons opt to                  
buy live trees offered by the many garden centers around the                    
state.                                                                          
     If you are planning to buy a live tree for planting after                  
the season, there are certain things that you should remember.                  
Decide ahead of time where the tree will be planted and dig                     
the hole before the ground freezes. (If you live in the moun-                   
tains, this should be done immediately.)  Remember to make the                  
hole larger than the root ball of the tree. A hole two to three                 
feet wide and two to three feet deep should be sufficient for                   
most trees.                                                                     
     Fill the hole with leaves and cover it with plastic. Make                  
certain that the plastic is mounded over the leaves so that rain                
water will not puddle and pull it down. Secure the plastic                      
edges with stakes, stones, or soil and place a board on top to                  
prevent someone from tumbling into the hole.                                    
     The act of moving a live tree from the cold into a warm,                   
dry house is a shock to the tree's system; do it gradually,                     
if possible. Keep the tree indoors for as short a period as                     
necessary, several days rather than several weeks, to prevent                   
the tree from drying out.                                                       
     Water the root ball to keep the roots moist while the tree                 
is indoors. Wrapping the root ball in plastic prevents water                    
from ruining the floor and helps preserve the moisture. But take                
care not to let roots sit in a puddle of water.                                 
     When planting the tree after Christmas, remove the protect-                
ive plastic from around the root ball. Uncover the hole, and                    
remove the leaves. Burlap should be loosened from around the                    
trunk but you do not need to remove it from the roots. You                      
should however make sure that no burlap will be exposed to the                  
air after filling in the hole as it will wick water away from                   
the roots. If the root ball has been wrapped with plastic or                    
vinyl, remove this covering before planting as it will not                      
decompose but will restrict the roots.                                          
     Set the tree so that it will grow at the same level at                     
which it was growing before being removed. Add soil to fill in                  
the hole, firming it with your feet. Soak with several buckets                  
of water. Mound the leaves around the base to prevent the deep                  
freezing of the soil and the drying of the roots. You may find                  
it necessary to thin the twigs and foliage because of the dense                 
outer growth that was created by the shearing.                                  
     If you are thinking of moving one of your own live trees,                  
remember it should be dug with an intact root ball and tightly                  
wrapped in burlap in the fall before the ground freezes.                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
MINIGREENHOUSE PROJECT FOR YOUNGSTERS                                           
                                                                                
     As the weather grows colder, youngsters need indoor projects               
to occupy the evenings. Watching their own plants start to grow                 
in a mini-greenhouse can be a good project for youngsters to see                
the development of living things.                                               
     Here are the instructions for a mini-greenhouse. The                       
materials needed are a half-gallon milk carton, a coat hanger,                  
clear plastic or a plastic bag, wire cutters, masking tape, and                 
a few plant cuttings or seeds.                                                  
     First, clean a half-gallon milk carton. Lay it on its side                 
so that the opened spout is up. Cut off the side with the spout                 
to form an open box, and punch holes for drainage along the                     
bottom.                                                                         
     With wire cutters, cut coat hanger wire and bend it so that                
it makes an arch. Fit the two wires into the box - one on each                  
end so they form arches to support the plastic roof. Tape the                   
wires into the corners of the box so they will stand up.                        
     Fill the greenhouse directly with potting soil mix or use                  
peat pots filled with potting soil inside of it. Peat pots,                     
which can be purchased at garden supply stores, make trans-                     
planting easier for the person who is planning to plant the                     
seedlings into another container.                                               
     Once the greenhouse is filled, take the piece of clear                     
plastic or the plastic bag and drape it over the entire box and                 
wires. The wires will hold the plastic up over the box and the                  
plants as they grow. Tuck the ends of the plastic under the                     
box. If you are using a plastic bag, just put the greenhouse                    
into the bag and tie the end.                                                   
     A youngster could use the mini-greenhouse to start plants                  
to use as Christmas gifts. Try using seeds from grapefruits or                  
oranges to start plants for gifts. Or, get cuttings from indoor                 
plants such as ivy or coleus to give. If the mini-greenhouse                    
can be placed in a very sunny window, the young gardener might                  
even be able to use leftover marigold or zinnia seeds and grow                  
enough to create a pot full of flowers to give at Christmas.                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
DECORATING WITH HOUSEPLANTS                                                     
                                                                                
     Many genuine plant lovers find the idea of decorating with                 
houseplants distressing since decorating, by definition, means                  
that the plants must be attractive and arranged artfully. The                   
hobbiest's clutter must be eliminated and the near-dead plants                  
removed.                                                                        
     Once people begin to see plants as assets, rather than                     
simply acquisitions, plants actually become fun and rewarding to                
have around. In fact, there are many different ways in which                    
plants can enhance your home.                                                   
     Plants may be used as an architectural or structural                       
element in a room. For example, several large plants can serve                  
as a room divider or a group of hanging baskets can act as                      
curtains in providing privacy at a window.                                      
     Plants also may serve as a form of art. Large plants with                  
distinct or unusual shapes can be displayed in the same way as                  
sculpture. Specimens of candelabra or pencil cacti are particu-                 
larly striking.                                                                 
     Caution must be exercised in selecting plants to complement                
the style of the home and furniture. Putting a cactus into a                    
French provincial living room would be counterproductive. The                   
same plant, however, would be a focal point in a Spanish,                       
Mediterranean, or modern setting.                                               
     An organized arrangement of small plants in a window or on                 
lighted shelves can serve the same function as a painting,                      
enhancing a color scheme and bringing pleasure to the viewer.                   
     Plants can add warmth and coziness to a room by softening                  
the effect of the interior architecture's straight lines. By                    
breaking up larger wall spaces and casting interesting shadows,                 
they can diminish the size of a room and make it more comfortable               
and personal. This effect can be enhanced by using lights on                    
the floor to increase wall or ceiling shadows. Ferns, ficus                     
benjamina, scheffleras, and other finer foliaged plants are                     
particularly useful to those who want to create this feeling of                 
intimacy.                                                                       
     Regardless of the decorating purpose to which you plan to                  
put your plants, there are certain guidelines to remember. Select               
plants that can do the intended job in the environmental condi-                 
tions provided. (Remember that no plant does well for long                      
in the dark.) If the plant doesn't do the job or begins to look                 
bad in a certain location, move it. You would never leave an                    
uncomfortable chair in front of the television. In a similar                    
manner, never leave your plants out of place.                                   
     Become familiar with your plants and give them what they                   
need. Different soils, various types and sizes of containers,                   
temperature, air flow and the amount of sunlight will influence                 
how much water a plant needs. Forget the idea that you can water                
all of your plants every Saturday morning and have them do well.                
Adjust your watering regimen to the individual plant's needs.                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
GIFT PLANTS CONTINUE GIVING                                                     
                                                                                
     Many of you received plants as gifts this season. To                       
assure that the plants will continue to bring you enjoyment, you                
should take certain protective steps.                                           
     Most plants need bright light, but do not place them                       
directly in the sun. Avoid putting potted plants in dry, over-                  
heated rooms. Most plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 70                 
degrees F. Remember to keep plants in locations that are free of                
drafts and where sudden temperature changes are not likely to                   
occur. Be especially careful of plants kept on window sills                     
where temperatures fluctuate widely between daytime and night.                  
     Before watering, stick a finger an inch into the soil. If                  
the soil is almost dry, water the plant remembering to keep the                 
soil moist but not wet. The water should be at or near room                     
temperature when used. The humidity around a plant can be raised                
by setting the pots on trays or pans of gravel and water.                       
     Plant foods are beneficial, but remember that a little                     
fertilizer can go a long way. Many gift plants may not need to be               
fertilized until spring.                                                        
     The special plants of the holiday season - the Christmas                   
cactus, the kalanchoe, and the poinsettia - need special care.                  
The Christmas cactus produces red flowers around Christmas                      
if given proper temperature and light conditions. It requires                   
12 or more hours of uninterrupted darkness and cool temperatures                
for several weeks before the desired bloom date. Although a                     
cactus, it will not tolerate extended dry periods, especially in                
the summer. The Christmas cactus prefers bright light but                       
should not be placed directly in the sun.                                       
     The kalanchoe is a succulent plant with bright orange or                   
red flowers. It should receive the full sun or very bright                      
light and should be watered when the soil is almost dry. The                    
kalanchoe will bloom most readily when it receives the same                     
long-night treatment that you give to the Christmas cactus.                     
     The poinsettia, a native of Mexico, has showy bracts of                    
red, pink, or white. The true flower is the small yellow one in                 
the middle of the bracts. To care for the poinsettia, remember                  
to keep temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees F and the humidity               
at more than 30 percent.                                                        
     If you would like the plant to survive to next year, you                   
should take certain steps. After the bracts and leaves have                     
dropped, start drying the plant by keeping it in a cool (50                     
degree F), dry, light place until May. Water just enough to keep                
stems and roots from becoming too dry.                                          
     In May, prune the stems to about six inches and start                      
watering and fertilizing. Place outdoors in June. Keep the                      
tips pinched off until early September when you bring the plant                 
inside and place it in a sunny window.                                          
     As the poinsettia is a short day plant, be sure it gets no                 
light from sundown to sunup as even a short period of light may                 
prevent it from flowering. The poinsettia requires 14 hours of                  
complete darkness daily from earle October until color shows,                   
which usually is around Thanksgiving. The plant then can be kept                
in the room and enjoyed as part of the holiday decorations.                     
November 1985                                                                   
                                Number of lines   Page                          
Native Trees                       60               2                           
House Plants Need Light            58               4                           
Winter Flowers Indoors             35               6                           
Plants At War                      53               7                           
Protecting Ornamentals             46               8                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
NATIVE TREES                                                                    
                                                                                
One way that often is recommended to reduce maintenance in the                  
home landscape is to select native trees and shrubs. These plants               
usually are more tolerant of local environmental conditions and                 
pests insuring better performance with less care. One difficulty                
in this approach is that many homeowners have problems identify-                
ing the desirable species among the multitude of trees in our                   
forests.                                                                        
                                                                                
Carolina silverbell (Halesia carolina), native to North Carolina,               
can be seen throughout the mountains of Virginia, but it does                   
well throughout the state. Usually considered to be a small tree,               
height between 30 and 40 feet, the species occasionally has                     
reached 80 feet. Its primary value is its clusters of small,                    
white, bell-like flowers borne on year-old growth in late April                 
or early May. These attractive flowers have a subtle beauty that                
is effective for about a week. Their summer foliage, with its                   
dark, yellowish green tone, also is an asset to the landscape.                  
                                                                                
The American yellowwood (Cladrastus lutea) is a native with its                 
showy spring flowers. In late May and early June, these fragrant                
white blossoms hang in clusters between 8 and 14 inches long.                   
They begin flowering when the tree is between 12 and 18 feet                    
tall. The flowers are as noted for their fragrance as well                      
as their beauty. Bees particularly are attracted to them.                       
Unfortunately, American yellowwoods tend to bloom every second or               
third year, so it would be best to combine them with other plants               
that bloom in the same season to assure an annual show. Because                 
of its medium size (30 to 50 feet) and spreading habit, it is                   
a good tree for smaller properties. Its yellow fall foliage and                 
smooth gray bark bring additional interest to the landscape.                    
                                                                                
A group of native trees that should interest homeowners is the                  
serviceberry. Two of the most interesting are the downy service-                
berry or shadblow (Amelanchier arborea), and Allegheny service-                 
berry (A. laevis). Serviceberries bloom in early April with                     
clusters of white flowers on the tops of the branches. They are                 
among the earliest plants to have fruits, blue or black berries                 
ripening in July. The sweet fruit was first used by American                    
Indians. One common name, the pie bush, indicates how the fruit                 
can be prepared. The fruit also is a favorite of some wildlife                  
and can be used to attract songbirds to the garden.                             
                                                                                
Although there are many other worthy native trees, two that are                 
not well known are the spicebush and American hornbeam. The                     
spicebush (Lindera benzion) grows from six to 12 feet tall with a               
normal spread. It is particularly noted for its pungent aroma                   
when any part of the plant is broken.                                           
                                                                                
American hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana), also called blue beech,               
ironwood or musclewood has smooth, thin, dark bluish gray bark                  
that is sinewy, greatly resembling flexed muscles. The wood                     
itself is very hard and heavy. American hornbeam grows to a                     
height of 20 to 30 feet and is best used in natural looking                     
sites.                                                                          
                                                                                
One difficulty in using the trees named in this column is, with                 
the exception of the American yellowwood, they are not commonly                 
found in the nursery. It may be necessary to locate a supplier of               
native trees, or dig them yourself from the wild.                               
HOUSE PLANTS NEED LIGHT                                                        
                                                                                
Different indoor house plants have varying light requirements. To               
grow them successfully, we must know what these requirements are                
and have a basic knowledge of light and its effects on plant life               
in general.                                                                     
                                                                                
Plants are selected as houseplants primarily because most of them               
do not require a lot of light to grow. Many indoor plants are                   
natives of jungles where light reaches them sporadically.                       
However, other house plants, the cacti and succulents for                       
example, come from open arid regions and thrive on intense light.               
                                                                                
Most house plants would be as badly damaged by overexposure as by               
underexposure. When there is too much light, the chlorophyll (the               
green pigment involved in photosynthesis) is broken down and                    
destroyed. The result is a chlorotic plant which is sick and                    
non-vigorous. In fact, it may look as if someone has dumped                     
bleach on it. Those plants that are not receiving enough light                  
have their own difficulties. They tend to become spindly and                    
leggy, don't flower, and may develop a discolored appearance or                 
lose their distinctive markings.                                                
                                                                                
The most accurate way to measure the quantity of light that                     
plants receive is with a light meter which reads in foot-candles.               
Indoor gardeners should take periodic light inventories with a                  
light meter in the various rooms where plants are growing. If you               
don't have one, a camera with a built-in light meter can be used                
to provide a reasonable light intensity estimate.                               
                                                                                
Be sure to clean windows inside and out to provide the most light               
to your plants. Eastern and western exposures provide moderate                  
light, to about 1,000 foot-candles. This generally is ideal light               
for many house plants. Southern exposures are the sunniest,                     
providing light intensities in the thousands of foot-candle                     
range. This may be too bright for tender foliage plants but is                  
great for the light lovers such as jade plants. You can always                  
shade plants with curtains.                                                     
                                                                                
Generally, windows with a northern exposure yield the least                     
light, having intensity readings in the hundreds of foot-candle                 
range. Remember, if light levels are less than 50 foot-candles,                 
it is difficult to even maintain plants for any length of time                  
and impossible to grow them. If the natural light is inade-                     
quate, try artificial sources. You can supplement the number of                 
exposure hours with artificial lighting, but don't leave lights                 
on plants for more than 16 hours. Most plants cannot tolerate                   
24-hour illumination as it upsets their delicate botanical                      
processes. An inexpensive electric timer can insure the right                   
length of time of artificial light.                                             
                                                                                
For maximum usefulness, artificial light sources need to be close               
to the plants. This probably will be no more than one foot away                 
for fluorescent fixtures and a slightly greater distance for                    
incandescent lights since they generate heat. By using multiple                 
fluorescent tubes and placing plants close to them, light                       
intensities of around 1,000 foot-candles can be provided.                       
WINTER FLOWERS INDOORS                                                         
                                                                                
One of the most reliable sources of winter bloom is the Spathi-                 
phyllum. Its white leaf-like flower is quite striking against the               
deep green foliage. It can easily outgrow most home settings,                   
however, as the plant may reach two or three feet in height.                    
                                                                                
The Streptocarpus or cape primrose is a smaller, but actually                   
much showier, plant. It has blossoms in various shades of purple,               
violet and rose, as well as white. A relative of the African                    
violet, it is easy to care for but equally prone to mealybugs.                  
                                                                                
The flame violet or Episcia is a vining relative of the African                 
violet with deep, orange-red blossoms. Although some people                     
report them difficult to grow, you should have little trouble as                
long as you give them plenty of light, and water thoroughly when                
the soil begins to dry.                                                         
                                                                                
There are several Bromeliads which create a showy display of                    
color on coarse, odd-looking plants. These relatives of the                     
pineapple vaguely resemble the severed top of a pineapple fruit.                
The flame sword and the air pine are the most common. Queen's                   
tears bromeliad provides year-round architecturally interesting                 
foliage and periodically rewards your patience with spikes of                   
pink, blue and yellow flowers. Most Bromeliads are easy to grow                 
but bloom only once. Many gradually die after flowering; but some               
put up side shoots that can be repotted for future plants and                   
flowers.                                                                        
                                                                                
There are many flowering plants, such as mums, poinsettias,                     
cyclamen and zebra plants, available from florists throughout the               
winter. Any of these, with skill and luck, can be induced to                    
rebloom after the initial show; but many gardeners find that it                 
simply isn't worth the effort and toss out the plant when it                    
becomes unattractive.                                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
PLANTS AT WAR                                                                   
                                                                                
Chemical warfare has been practiced in the plant kingdom far                    
longer than it has been practiced by man. Canada thistle, yellow                
nutsedge and quackgrass not only do hand-to-hand combat with                    
crops to rob them of water, nutrients and sunlight, they produce                
toxic chemicals that inhibit the other plants' growth.                          
                                                                                
Allelopathy is the term which is used to describe the toxic                     
effect of one plant on another. Toxic chemicals can be released                 
by the roots or leaves of living or dead plants. In some cases,                 
they may be produced by micro-organisms that break down the                     
organic matter.                                                                 
                                                                                
The most common occurence of this characteristic is with the                    
black walnut (Juglans nigra). Since the time of ancient Rome,                   
gardeners have observed that walnut trees are toxic to many other               
plants. Although this toxicity is not fully understood, it is                   
known that a toxic substance called juglone is exuded from the                  
roots of black walnut trees. Not all plants are susceptible to                  
damage. In fact, some seem to have improved vigor when grown near               
a black walnut.                                                                 
                                                                                
Studies show that roots of the tree must have contact with, or be               
very close to, susceptible plants to cause injury. This may                     
include a much larger area, however, than most people expect as                 
the roots of a mature black walnut may occupy an area five or six               
times that of the tree's crown. Even after a walnut tree is                     
removed, the toxic substance will remain in the soil for about a                
year. Although leaves, husks and bark contain juglone, mulches of               
these tree parts are reported not to cause the toxic response                   
that occurs with actual root contact.                                           
                                                                                
Plants which have been recorded as harmed by black walnut include               
tomatoes, potatoes, blackberries, blueberries, rhododendron,                    
azaleas, and mountain laurel. Plants that do as well, or better,                
under black walnuts include Kentucky bluegrass, snap beans, sweet               
corn, red cedars, daffodils and maples. Noticing that the soil                  
under black walnuts is alkaline (the pH may be 0.7 points higher                
than the soil beyond the roots), one researcher suggests that                   
this may influence which plants perform well.                                   
                                                                                
Other researchers are looking at allelopathy as a possible way to               
control weeds. For example, certain selections of rye, wheat and                
barley significantly reduce weed growth, in part by the release                 
of toxic root substances. Therefore, they offer partial control                 
of certain annual weeds when grown as cover crops in fruit                      
orchards. Although research is in early stages, published reports               
indicate a potential for use that some day may be worthwhile for                
consideration by the home orchardist. The use of allelopathic                   
plants will not eliminate the need for herbicides, but it is                    
exciting to know that research is being conducted that may                      
provide another alternative to mechanical or synthetic chemical                 
control of weeds.                                                               
                                                                                
PROTECTING ORNAMENTALS                                                          
                                                                                
Homeowners can take several special actions to protect their                    
trees and shrubs for the winter. Although these actions won't                   
guarantee total absence of damage to the plants, they should                    
limit the severity of the problem.                                              
                                                                                
Any snow that collects on your shrubs should be removed with a                  
broom. Always sweep upward with the broom to lift off the snow.                 
When the branches are frozen and brittle, however, avoid disturb-               
ing the branches. Wait until a warmer day.                                      
                                                                                
Bark splitting is an especially dangerous condition to be guarded               
against on newly planted trees. It may be prevented by wrapping                 
trunks with burlap strips or with commercial tree wrap.                         
                                                                                
If the winter is particularly severe, many plants may show                      
substantial injury. Discolored or "burned" evergreen needles or                 
leaves, dead branch tips and branches, "heaved" root systems and                
broken branches are among the symptoms.                                         
                                                                                
Small evergreens can be protected by erecting wind breaks made                  
out of burlap, canvas, or similar materials attached to a frame                 
surrounding a plant. A complete wrapping of straw and burlap                    
sometimes is used.                                                              
                                                                                
Black plastic should be avoided as a material for wrapping                      
plants. During the day, it allows heat to increase inside and                   
actually increases the fluctuations between day and night                       
temperatures. It also may speed the growth of buds in the spring,               
making them more vulnerable to late frosts.                                     
                                                                                
Since the various boxes, shields and wrappings detract from your                
winter landscape, it might be wise to move sensitive plants to a                
more protected location and replace them with hardier specimens                 
that don't need such protection each year.                                      
                                                                                
Anti-dessicant (anti-dryout) compounds can be used on valuable                  
evergreens to lessen damage during severe freezes. They must be                 
applied at the onset of the coldest weather when plants are                     
unable to take up water from frozen ground. These compounds act                 
as barriers to the movement of water from the plant through                     
the leaves. The protection provided by an anti-dessicant is                     
temporary. After a few days, the film disintegrates.                            
October  1985                                                                   
LANDSCAPING THE FRONT YARD                                                      
                                                                                
A traditional element in the homesites of most Virginians is the                
yard. Whether it is a 15-by-20 foot patch in front of a townhouse               
or an acre of land fenced-off from the rest of a farm, this space               
is set aside for public viewing and should be an attractive                     
display for all who approach it.                                                
                                                                                
When space permits, a lawn becomes the canvas upon which your                   
landscape picture is constructed. As such, it should be open and                
as wide as possible to give the impression of spaciousness to the               
property.                                                                       
                                                                                
The ground should slope down from the house to cause water to                   
move away from the foundation. If possible, the grading should                  
provide gentle slopes which are easy to mow. Banks which exceed                 
one foot of drop for each two feet of horizontal distance will be               
difficult to maintain in sod, hard to mow, and susceptible to                   
erosion. Such as area as this would be better suited to ground                  
covers.                                                                         
                                                                                
Ideally, the house should be framed with trees. Tall species                    
should be located in the back yard to provide a green backdrop to               
the house. Medium-sized trees should be planted toward the sides                
of the front lawn area. This will focus attention on the resid-                 
ence as the most important feature of the landscape picture.                    
                                                                                
A foundation planting of shrubs or small trees is often located                 
around the house to soften its harsh architectural features and                 
to cause it to blend into the landscape. This is particularly                   
effective if used where vertical lines of the building meet the                 
ground at corners and doorways.                                                 
                                                                                
A continuous planting will reduce the apparent height of a tall                 
house. However, a low house, without an exposed foundation, will                
look larger and more impressive if the shrub planting is not                    
continuous, and ground covers are used in one or two places                     
between the corner and the front door.                                          
                                                                                
Use a limited number of species in the foundation planting.                     
Some variation in form and texture is important, but avoid                      
numerous different types, or mixtures of evergreen and deciduous                
shrubs.                                                                         
                                                                                
Select varieties which will be of suitable size when mature,                    
and be sure to provide adequate space for normal growth. Avoid                  
placing large shrubs under windows, as they will need continuous                
heavy pruning, or will grow too tall.                                           
                                                                                
The height of shrubs is very important along the front of the                   
house. Relatively tall ones should be located at the corners, and               
shorter ones on each side of the front door. This will have the                 
effect of funneling attention on the entrance.                                  
Be prepared to renew or improve your landscaping periodically.                  
Most shrubs need to be replaced with young, more desirable                      
specimens about every 15 or 20 years.                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
VIRGINIA IS FOR APPLE LOVERS                                                    
                                                                                
Virginia is the fifth largest apple producing state in the United               
States. More than 12 million bushels of apples are harvested                    
each year in our state. Consequently, it is possible for Virgin-                
ians to select high quality apples for a variety of purposes.                   
The key is knowing what varieties to buy and where to find them.                
 Here are some favorites:                                                       
                                                                                
 Red Delicious, the number one apple in the supermarket, is                     
excellent for salads and eating out of hand. Since they are                     
readily available year-round, Red Delicious could be skipped for                
the harder-to-get varieties during the peak harvest time.                       
                                                                                
 Golden Delicious, also widely available in supermarkets, is                    
ranked high for eating fresh and cooking.                                       
                                                                                
 Jonathan is very tart, juicy and firm. It is an excellent                      
choice for snacks, salads and cooking. Although it ripens from                  
early to midseason, it is widely available into the fall.                       
                                                                                
 Stayman, a late ripening apple, is juicy with a moderately tart,               
rich, wine-like flavor. It is good for fresh eating, salads and                 
cooking.                                                                        
                                                                                
 Winesap apples have very firm, tart, juicy fruit which hold                    
their shape well when cooked.                                                   
                                                                                
 Rome Beauty, considered by some to be "the world's best baking                 
apple," is a variety with a slightly tart taste. The fruit                      
has a long storage life and is widely available.                                
                                                                                
 York is also a popular variety with Virginia producers. It's                   
tart, crisp fruit provides good eating out of hand or cooked.                   
                                                                                
 One variety which has gained popularity recently is the Granny                 
Smith. It is an excellent variety that is being planted in                      
Virginia orchards. Locally produced Granny Smiths may not be                    
available in your area yet, but should be within the next few                   
years.                                                                          
                                                                                
Many of the less common varieties are more easily obtained from                 
Virginia apple orchards and their roadside markets than at the                  
local supermarket. A weekend excursion could take you to the                    
orchards for a bushel of apples. Watch for apple cider and                      
pumpkins too, while you are enjoying the fall foliage.                          
                                                                                
In addition to the more popular modern varieties in some of the                 
old orchards on both eastern and western slopes of the Blue Ridge               
varieties such as Arkansas Black Twig, Baldwin, Ben Davis, Esopus               
Spitzenburg, Gano, King David, Grimes Golden, Horse Apple, Maiden               
Blush, Northern Spy, Smokehouse, Winter Banana and Wolf River are               
grown.                                                                          
                                                                                
Many of the old varieties lost favor with the commercial grower                 
because of low productivity, lack of attractiveness, susceptibil-               
ity to insects and disease, and poor shipping quality. For the                  
home gardener, however, these faults are overshadowed by the                    
delightful flavor, rich aroma, and culinary characteristics                     
found in few of the more recently introduced apple varieties.                   
If you find some of these old varieties at a roadside stand, you                
might try them. Each still has a following among apple lovers.                  
                                                                                
When buying apples, the Virginia State Apple Commission points                  
out that the background or "ground color", on varieties that are                
not solid red, should be yellow-green. If too green, the color                  
indicates immaturity. Too yellow of a color indicates an overripe               
apple.                                                                          
                                                                                
Apples with a brownish roughened area on the skin called surface                
russeting make good eating and may be less expensive. Russeting                 
is only a cosmetic defect.                                                      
                                                                                
It usually is more economical to buy apples in large quantities                 
when they are in season. Purchase only what can be used or                      
stored, however. Smaller apples usually will keep longer and have               
less bruising.                                                                  
                                                                                
Apples should be kept refrigerated. Store in perforated plastic                 
bags to allow proper air circulation. Place away from foods with                
strong odors as the flavor will transfer.                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
FALL RASPBERRIES                                                                
                                                                                
With the introduction of some newer varieties, raspberries can be               
treats in both the summer and the fall. In fact, unless your area               
has been caught by an unseasonably early frost, you still could                 
be picking raspberries from your everbearing varieties. One of                  
the best and most frequently grown everbearing raspberries                      
in Virginia is Heritage.                                                        
                                                                                
The so-called everbearing varieties of raspberries actually                     
should be considered two-season bearers as each cane produces                   
the first crop in the fall its first year, and a second crop in                 
the summer of its second year. After the second crop is produc-                 
ed, the cane dies and should be removed. The crown of the plant,                
however, lives for eight or more years and continues to produce                 
new canes each year. This means that after you have completed                   
the June harvest and removed all canes, there still will be many                
new ones that will produce a fall crop.                                         
                                                                                
For those people who find this system confusing, there is                       
another way of pruning that has proven quite successful with the                
Heritage raspberry. It eliminates the need to decide if a cane                  
has completed both crops and should be removed. In this system,                 
Heritage is grown as a fall bearer only and never allowed                       
to set the second crop in the summer.                                           
                                                                                
Canes grow for a season, produce a crop in the fall and are left                
on the plant to help it survive the winter. They are then removed               
in early spring.  The canes can be cut with a rotary mower and                  
all cut material removed from the planting. New canes will grow                 
from the crowns to produce that fall's harvest and the cutting                  
procedure can be repeated the next spring. Although you miss the                
June harvest, the total yield will be higher in the fall than it                
is on plants producing two crops per year, and the maintenance                  
will be reduced greatly.                                                        
                                                                                
If you don't want to miss those June raspberries, you might set                 
aside one part of your Heritage patch for traditional pruning.                  
Or you might grow one of the June bearing varieties such as                     
Latham.                                                                         
                                                                                
October is the time to prepare your soil to plant raspberries                   
next spring. They prefer a pH of 5.8 to 6.5 and a deep sandy-loam               
soil. Converting part of your garden to raspberries could be                    
ideal, but avoid areas where tomatoes, eggplants or potatoes have               
grown. These crops often carry verticillium wilt which lives in                 
the soil many years and is very damaging to raspberries.                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
MICE, VOLES OR MOLES                                                            
                                                                                
When we discover that creatures have been eating our plants, we                 
tend to get excited and start looking for ways to eliminate the                 
pests rather than trying to identify and understand them. This                  
can reduce our effectiveness at times.                                          
                                                                                
One case is the mice, vole, or mole dilemma.  Although easily                   
mistaken by the novice, they are not all plant-devouring rodents.               
 In fact, the mole is neither a rodent nor a plant eater. A close               
relative of the shrew, the mole tunnels through your yard in                    
search of grubs or other soil insects.                                          
                                                                                
Pine or meadow voles, often called mice as they are in that                     
family, are more likely the culprits that are damaging bulbs,                   
roots and tree bark. The pine vole and the mole seem to work as a               
team in creating havoc, as the pine vole loves to use the tunnels               
created by moles as a running path for easy access to its dinner.               
The meadow vole, on the other hand, stays above ground and                      
tunnels through leaves, straw, and other debris to reach its                    
favorite food.                                                                  
                                                                                
While moles are a nuisance, making the yard unsightly and                       
difficult to cross in high heels, they do relatively little                     
actual damage to plants with the exception of pushing small                     
perennials out of the ground. Voles however, can do more damage                 
than insects or disease in a fruit orchard.  They have been known               
to girdle and kill a tree in one winter.                                        
                                                                                
To prevent damage this winter, there are several things a                       
homeowner can do. First, eliminate potential homes for the                      
creatures. Moles can be discouraged by reducing the insect                      
population in the soil, usually through the use of soil insectic-               
ides. Traps may also be used to stop the moles. After the moles                 
are gone, their tunnels should be collapsed around fruit trees to               
prevent winter use by the pine voles.                                           
                                                                                
Mulch, stems, leaves, and dead grass should be removed from                     
around the trunks of trees to reduce meadow vole damage. Tree                   
guards are helpful in reducing summer and early fall damage. They               
should be constructed from hardware cloth with no larger than                   
1/4-inch mesh. Guards should enclose the tree trunk and extend                  
from several inches below ground to about 18 inches above the                   
soil's surface. Never use tarpaper or roofing paper as they may                 
damage the tree by lowering its winter hardiness.                               
                                                                                
If a vole problem still develops, it is better for the homeowner                
to use traps rather than poisonous baits, as the latter are                     
dangerous to pets and children. Common household mouse traps                    
baited with apples and placed in the trail system are probably                  
the most effective control. Continue to use the traps for four to               
five days, surrounding your trees at 10 to 20 square foot                       
intervals to get rid of all the voles.                                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
EARLY AMERICAN VEGETABLES                                                       
                                                                                
North American Indians were cultivating several common garden                   
crops when Europeans arrived. Corn, beans and pumpkins were                     
among their most important foods. Sunflowers and Jerusalem                      
artichokes also supplemented their diets.                                       
                                                                                
Believed to be a "gift of the gods," corn was of central importa-               
nce for many of the native Americans. Although popcorn and sweet                
corn were known, they were not as important for food crops as                   
field corn or roasting ears.                                                    
                                                                                
Green corn was roasted in the shuck and also was mixed with green               
beans to make succotash. Dried corn was washed in wood ashes and                
quicklime to make hominy, or parched to make it pop slightly for                
easy eating. Ground hominy or dried field corn was used for                     
making unleavened bread or tortillas. It was also mixed with                    
other foods, such as pumpkins, beans, or acorns to make bread.                  
Evidence indicates that sweet corn primarily was grown for                      
special occasions. Interestingly, it was eaten parched rather                   
than fresh.                                                                     
                                                                                
Some methods used by the Indians to insure a successful crop                    
might be of value in today's home gardens. They included planting               
in a shallow pit in windy areas or dry soils to hold moisture,                  
and soaking seeds for two days to hasten sprouting. Interplant-                 
ing with pumpkins to save space may be an asset to some gardens                 
if field corn is planted and allowed to mature before harvest.                  
When such interplanting is tried with sweet corn, most people                   
have to fight the pumpkin vines to get the corn at harvest                      
time.                                                                           
                                                                                
The pumpkin was second only to corn in importance as a food                     
crop to North American Indians. Pumpkins were protected from                    
freezing in early winter by storing them in corn shocks. As the                 
weather got colder, they were sliced into rings and dried over                  
fires. The dried pumpkin could be ground into meal and used for                 
breads. The seeds that weren't needed for planting the next year                
were roasted and eaten.                                                         
                                                                                
The kidney bean, which includes most snap or green beans, was                   
domesticated in Peru before 6000 B.C. and in Mexico prior to 5000               
B.C. Its use spread north from Mexico, as did corn and pumpkins.                
 These three plants became the principle crops in North America                 
in prehistoric times.                                                           
                                                                                
The early colonist found the native Americans planting pole or                  
"half-runner" types of kidney beans. They often were put among                  
the corn plants so they could climb the stalks. This practice                   
not only led to easier bean harvests, it made it possible to grow               
good crops of corn on the same ground for several years in a row.               
The native Americans did not understand why this worked but, by                 
observing the benefits, were able to take advantage of the fact                 
that beans actually improved the soil by helping to extract                     
nitrogen from the atmosphere and storing it in the soil. The                    
oldest known variety of beans, the "White Half Runner," has been                
planted for as long as records exist by mountain residents in the               
Southeastern United States.                                                     
                                                                                
Another crop grown by the North American Indians was the sunflow-               
er. It is the only important crop plant to have actually been                   
domesticated in what is now the United States. All other crops                  
were brought here by native Americans after domestication.                      
Surprisingly, sunflower did not become important as a food plant                
until it was carried to Russia where it was found to be suitable                
for growth in large areas of that vast country.  This led to the                
development of several new varieties.                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
PREPARING FOR FROST                                                             
                                                                                
It  may seem a little early to begin worrying about frost, but                  
well-laid plans now may avoid disaster and disappointment                       
later.                                                                          
                                                                                
When the nights begin to reach 55 degrees F, it's time to                       
acclimate your house plants to return indoors.  Move them to a                  
lower light area and bring them in at night.  Most tropical house               
plants can be injured by low night temperatures that are well                   
above freezing. Inspect plants closely for insects and complete                 
any pesticide spraying while the plants are still out-of-doors.                 
                                                                                
If a pot has been in contact with the soil, you may want to soak                
it in a bucket of water for several hours to drown any insects                  
that may have entered the drain hole. Clean the foliage and wash                
your windows to provide maximum light this winter before taking                 
the plants inside.  Remember, that with lower light and cooler                  
temperatures, plant growth will slow down so less water and                     
fertilizer will be required.                                                    
                                                                                
Begonias, coleus, geraniums and impatiens can be potted up and                  
moved indoors for added winter color.  If this is not desirable,                
cuttings can be taken and rooted in a glass of water to make a                  
fresh start of young plants.  Protecting your chrysanthemums,                   
marigolds, and other flowers from the first light frost may                     
prolong their flowering period through the warm Indian summer                   
that usually follows our early freezes.                                         
                                                                                
If there are tender plants, such as tomatoes, in your vegetable                 
garden, that still hold an abundance of immature fruit when                     
frost arrives, plan to cover them during the night.  Start                      
collecting baskets, burlap or canvas sacks, boxes, blankets or                  
buckets to protect them from the frost.  The warm days after the                
frost will mature some of the fruit as long as the plants have                  
this nightly frost protection.                                                  
                                                                                
Summer squash, melons, eggplant, cucumbers, peppers and okra are                
some crops that cannot withstand frost and should be picked                     
immediately prior to heavy frosts. Store the vegetables in a                    
refrigerator until needed for eating or processing.                             
                                                                                
Cool-season crops, such as cabbage, cauliflower, peas, broccoli                 
and Brussels sprouts can withstand some cold; in fact, their                    
favor is often enhanced after a frost.  They cannot stay in                     
the garden all winter, but do not need to be picked immediately                 
when frost comes.                                                               
                                                                                
Kale, spinach, evergreen bunching onions, lettuce, parsley,                     
parsnips, carrots, and salsify are crops that may survive all                   
winter in your garden.  Mulch overwintering vegetables with                     
8 inches of mulch to prevent heaving of the soil.  Most of these                
vegetables can be dug or picked as needed throughout the winter                 
or in early spring.                                                             
                                                                                
The average date of the first killing frost in your areas can be                
obtained from a local Extension agent.                                          
Tom Brunback, Virginia Tech agricultural meteorologist, explain-                
s, however, that although these average dates can be used to                    
determine when the first freeze is expected, weather systems and                
local effects largely determine the exact date.  The first freeze               
of autumn forms when the air is relatively cool the day before.                 
Be wary of cloudy daytime skies that prevent maximum temperatures               
from reaching 65 degrees F.  Freezes are especially likely when                 
these cool days are followed by a clear night with little or no                 
wind.                                                                           
                                                                                
The clear night skies allow heat from the soil surface and                      
plants to escape into space.  Eventually, if there are enough                   
hours of this night time heat loss, plant temperatures will fall                
below freezing, usually just before sunrise.  Since the ground                  
and plant surfaces cool the most, any wind helps mix warmer air                 
from above and thus reduces the risk of a freeze.  Likewise,                    
cloudy skies at night reduce heat loss and freeze risks.                        
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
PLANT HARDY BULBS FOR NEXT YEAR'S COLOR                                         
                                                                                
Hardy bulbs can be planted now to provide color from early                      
spring until the end of summer.  Most people think of fall as the               
time to plant daffodils and tulips.  Certainly these lovely bulbs               
with their spectacular displays should not be forgotten, but the                
wealth of other bulbs can't be ignored.                                         
                                                                                
Winter can be endured more easily if promises of spring are                     
brought by such extra early small bulbs as Glory of the Snow,                   
winter aconite and snowdrops.  With flowers from three to six                   
inches tall, these bulbs grow will in rock gardens or raised                    
beds.  They also naturalize well under leafy trees that allow                   
light early in the season but give shade in the summer.                         
                                                                                
Species tulips, such as the Kaufmannia and Fosterlana, bloom                    
next. Their unusual flower shapes and colors set them apart from                
the later blooming, larger tulips.  Because of their smaller                    
sizes, these tulips also lend themselves to rock gardens, raised                
beds or window boxes that give them special places to show their                
individuality.                                                                  
                                                                                
Hyacinths, daffodils and tulips follow, assuring everyone                       
that spring is indeed here to stay and summer is on the way.                    
                                                                                
Depending on the variety grown, alliums or "flowering onions"                   
may be the next to bloom.  Giant alliums produce flower balls up                
to nine inches across on stalks four to eight feet tall.  They                  
are certainly not an easy plant to use in the flower bed, but                   
their astounding flower can be the spark that ignites a child's                 
enthusiasm for plants.  Other species of small, red, yellow and                 
white flowering alliums (under a foot tall) can also be found in                
most bulb catalogs.                                                             
                                                                                
Another allium with lovely blossoms that often is relegated to                  
the herb garden is chives.  Chives can be a very effective part                 
of the flower border with their pinkish lavender, ball-shaped                   
flowers in early June. The added benefit of snipping leaves                     
throughout the summer flavors soups and salads.                                 
                                                                                
Lilies are a highly diverse group of summer flowering perennials                
that can provide the novice or the experienced gardener with a                  
highly rewarding, continuous show of color from June through                    
October.  Careful selection of varieties not only can provide                   
this prolonged profusion of color, but a diversity in shape and                 
color of blossom and size of plant. Yellows and oranges predom-                 
inate, but whites, pinks and reds are readily available.                        
Although some varieties reach over eight feet tall, the newer                   
hybrids that bloom at between two and three feet easily integrate               
themselves into most flower borders.                                            
                                                                                
Foxtail lilies, which are really an Eremus, make dramatic                       
accents in the early summer, producing tall spikes covered with                 
hundreds of starry bells.  Some species reach as tall as 10 feet,               
so unless you design a giant-sized flower border, be careful to                 
select from the shorter (3-4 feet) species.  Actually grown from                
tubers rather than true bulbs, foxtail lilies are more difficult                
to establish than most of the hardy bulbs but are well worth the                
effort.                                                                         
                                                                                
Another favorite for late summer bloom is the blackberry lily.                  
Actually a member of the iris family, this plant is started from                
division of rhizomes or fleshy underground stems.  In August and                
September graceful sprays of small red-spotted orange flowers                   
appear, producing a thick green capsule type fruit.  Later in the               
fall, the capsules split to reveal clusters of black seed,                      
resembling a blackberry, thus its name. These seed heads are                    
useful for dried flower arrangements.                                           
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
HARDY MUMS FOR FALL COLOR                                                       
                                                                                
Many flower gardeners find the essence of autumn in the diversi-                
ty of their hardy chrysanthemums.  This herbaceous perennial is                 
noteworthy for its wide range of colors, sizes and shapes of                    
flowers.                                                                        
                                                                                
Their usefulness in extending the flower gardening season to the                
first heavy frost can't be matched.  They can be used in borders                
for massing, as accent plants, or even to replant containers that               
were filled with summer annuals.  Their long-lasting cut flowers                
are a welcome bonus after the summer cutting garden has passed                  
its peak.                                                                       
                                                                                
As chrysanthemums bloom during the shorter days of late summer                  
and early fall, their natural flowering period coincides with the               
coloring of autumn foliage.  Their color range often resembles                  
the leaves of a hardwood forest with yellows, rusts, reds and                   
bronze predominating. Whites, pinks and lavenders also are                      
available.                                                                      
                                                                                
Decorative button, pompon, spoon, spider and daisy are only a                   
few of the flower types that are available.  Chrysanthemum size                 
differs among varieties but also can be manipulated by the                      
gardener.                                                                       
                                                                                
If you would like extra large blooms, disbud or remove all of                   
the flower buds on the stem except for the large terminal bud in                
the center of the cluster.  This will greatly reduce the total                  
number of flowers but the one that does open will be much more                  
showy.  This is the method that is used, in combination with                    
careful variety selection, to produce the large mums you see at                 
football games.                                                                 
                                                                                
Many garden centers have a wide array of mums available in full                 
bloom to dress up your autumn landscape.  These mums, grown in                  
gallon containers, can easily be planted anywhere in the garden                 
for instant show.  With care, it even is possible to transplant                 
mums in bloom from one location to another, more permanent spot.                
                                                                                
Dig the plants carefully after thorough watering, retaining as                  
much of the root system as feasible.  Gently loosen a small                     
amount of soil from the outer edge of the root ball and replant                 
in the new location at the same soil depth.  Water thoroughly to                
settle the plants and monitor them for several days.  If needed,                
shade the plants during the hottest part of the day.                            
                                                                                
Some gardeners try planting greenhouse grown mums received as                   
pot plants.  Unfortunately, most of these are not hardy and won't               
survive even the mildest winter.  True hardiness, even for the                  
garden varieties, may be marginal in parts of Virginia.  These                  
mums are best grown as annuals.                                                 
                                                                                
Chrysanthemums are relatively easy perennials to grow.  However,                
careful site and variety selection and proper cultural practices                
are needed to assure maximum autumn show.  Diseases and insects                 
can cause problems--especially stem rots, powdery mildew, aphids                
and spider mites. Should these or other problems occur, consult                 
your local Extension agent for recommended control measures.                    
                                                                                
As you enjoy the chrysanthemums in bloom around your neighbor-                  
hood, take note of your favorites.  Perhaps you can arrange for a               
trade of "starts" next spring when they are divided and thinned.                
Or, at least get the name so you can order it from the catalogs                 
to set in your favorite spot.                                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
FALL SOIL MANAGEMENT                                                            
                                                                                
Gardeners often wonder whether to do their plowing or tilling in                
the spring or fall.  Working the soil in the fall has several                   
advantages over the traditional spring plowing.                                 
                                                                                
It allows for earlier planting, since the basic soil preparation                
is already done when spring arrives.  The turning under of large                
amount of organic matter is likely to result in better decomposi-               
tion when done in the fall, as autumn temperatures are higher                   
than those of early spring, and there is more time for the                      
process to take place.                                                          
                                                                                
Insects, disease organisms and perennial weeds may be reduced                   
through burial, or exposure to harsh winter weather.  The                       
physical condition of heavy clay soils may be improved by the                   
alternate freezing and thawing, which breaks tightly aggregated                 
particles.                                                                      
                                                                                
When snow is trapped between the hills of roughly-plowed soil,                  
more moisture is retained than on flat, bare ground.  Incorpo-                  
ration of limestone in the fall gives the mineral time to become                
intergrated into the soil and influences spring plant growth.                   
                                                                                
To prepare for fall tilling, you should check soil fertility and                
pH by having your soil analyzed through a local Extension office.               
This test should be repeated at least once every three years.                   
                                                                                
Soil pH measures the degree of acidity or alkalinity of the                     
soil. Vegetables vary some in their requirements, but most garden               
crops will do well with a soil pH of 6.2-6.8.  This is a little                 
below neutral or slightly acid (sour).                                          
                                                                                
If soil pH is too high or low, poor crop growth will result,                    
largely due to the effects of pH on the availability of nutrients               
to plants.  A soil test also will give you an idea of the                       
nutrient level in your soil.                                                    
                                                                                
Lime and sulfur are commonly used to change soil pH.  The                       
correct soil pH is essential for optimum plant growth.  Dolomitic               
limestone adds calcium and magnesium as it increases pH.  Sulfur                
acidifies alkaline soil.  The amount to add depends on the                      
current and desired pH.  This is a good reason to have your soil                
checked periodically.                                                           
                                                                                
Wood ashes are often used as a soil amendment.  They contain                    
potash (potassium), phosphate, boron, and other elements.  Wood                 
ashes can be used to raise soil pH with twice as much ash applied               
as limestone for the same effect.                                               
                                                                                
Ashes should not come into contact with germinating seedlings or                
plant roots as they may cause root burn.  Spread a thin layer of                
ashes prior to winter, and incorporate it into the soil.  Check                 
pH yearly if you use wood ashes.  Never use coal ashes or large                 
amounts of wood ash (no more than 20 pounds per 1,000 square                    
feet), as toxicity problems may occur.                                          
                                                                                
Animal manures are commonly used directly as a garden soil                      
amendment both to improve soil structure and increase nutrients.                
The value of manure in terms of the nutrients it contains varies.               
                                                                                
Fresh horse, sheep, rabbit and poultry manures are quite high in                
nitrogen and may even "burn" plants if applied directly to a                    
growing garden.  They are best applied in the fall and tilled                   
under.                                                                          
                                                                                
Cover crops shouldn't be underestimated as a source for inexpens-               
ive soil improvement.  Green manures, or such cover crops                       
as annual rye, ryegrass, and oats, are planted in the garden in                 
the fall for incorporation in the spring.  For best results, seed               
should be sown at least a month before the first killing frost.                 
                                                                                
In a fall garden, plant cover crops between the rows and in any                 
cleared areas.  Cover cropping provides additional organic                      
matter, holds nutrients that might have been lost over the winter               
and helps reduce erosion and loss of topsoil.  Legume cover crops               
can increase the amount of nitrogen in the soil and reduce                      
fertilizer needs.                                                               
                                                                                
A deep-rooted cover crop like buckwheat, allowed to grow for a                  
season in problem soil, can help break a hardpan and greatly                    
improve tilth. Incorporate green manures into the soil at least                 
two weeks before planting vegetables. Do not allow them to go to                
seed.                                                                           
                                                                                
Fall plowing is not recommended for hillside or steep garden                    
plots since the soil, left exposed all winter, is subject to                    
erosion when the spring rains come.  If a winter cover crop is                  
grown to improve soil and prevent erosion, the ground will have                 
to be tilled in the fall to prepare the soil for seed, and again                
in spring to turn under the green manure.                                       
                                                                                
Spring plowing is better for sandy soils and those where shallow                
tilling is practiced.  Generally, most gardens must be disked or                
rotary-tilled in the spring to smooth the soil for planting.                    
However, as research is being done for no-till methods of crop                  
production, the potential for eliminating the heavy work of                     
tilling or plowing looks increasingly bright.                                   
                                                                                
  Planting a Winter Cover Crop                                                  
                                                                                
 A cover crop is a temporary planting made to add organic                       
matter to the soil and improves its physical condition.                         
                                                                                
 A  cover crop can have many benefits for the home vegetable                    
garden.  Cover crops hold nitrogen and other plant nutrient                     
that might be leached away during the winter. Their extensive                   
root systems loosen heavy soils, and the added humus helps aggregate            
soil particles in sandy soils.                                                  
                                                                                
 If you have plenty of garden space, a good plan is to put                      
a third to a half of it into a cover crop each year, then alternate             
the cover crop with the vegetable planting.                                     
                                                                                
 Keep in mind that the different kinds of roots do different                    
kinds of jobs. Fine grass and cloer roots are ideal for developing              
soil crumbs in the upper 6 to 12 inches of the garden. Alfalfa                  
and sweet clover taproots extend deeper. When they die and rot,                 
the roots leave channels for air and water movement.                            
                                                                                
 Annual rye, Abruizzi rye, red clover and hairy vetch are                       
excellent choices for a winter cover. By being good, cool-season                
producers, any of them will grow quickly this fall. They provide                
excellent erosion control soil won't wash away during fall and                  
winter rains. By fertilizing with one pound of 10-10-10 per                     
100 square feet, these cover crops will provide good top growth                 
this fall.                                                                      
                                                                                
 Cover crops can be planted as early as the beginning of                        
August, but should not be planted any later than Nov. 1. The                    
plants should become established before hard freezes stop their                 
growth.                                                                         
                                                                                
 Winter cover crops can even be started where the gardener                      
has fall crops growing. Sow the seed between rows a month or                    
less before the harvest is expected. This way the cover crop                    
gets a good start, but will not interfere with vegetable plant                  
growth.                                                                         
                                                                                
 One problem with cover crops is that the gardeners tend                        
to delay tilling them in the next spring. Consequently, gardeners               
may get a late start in planting. The crop may require mowing                   
before tilling if it has grown large enough to clog up the tines                
of the tiller. Turn over the cover crop as early in Spring as                   
the ground can be worked, and the benefits should outweigh the                  
problems.                                                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
   Gardening:  The Rx for Good Health                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
 It is surprising that in this health-conscious society,                        
people often fail to realize that one of the Nation's favorite                  
pastimes, gardening, is also one of its riches sources of good                  
health - both physical and mental.                                              
                                                                                
 In the garden, you get exercise and fresh air, burn calories,                  
and stretch muscles that otherwise go unused. Pruning, mowing,                  
digging and hoeing add new meaning to the word exercise. As                     
an avid gardener, you will help keep your body in shape as you                  
maintain your lawn and garden throughout the gardening year.                    
                                                                                
 Of course, from the vegetable garden you get highly nutritious                 
produce that can be a great help on a diet. Try nibbling carrots                
straight from the garden. They taste better than candy.                         
                                                                                
 The benefits of gardening as preventive medicine for good                      
mental health are less apparent, but consider how your attitudes                
change as you work outside. Stresses fade as you become absorbed                
in the familiar tasks of planting, cultivating and harvesting. Anger            
can be worked out with the garden hoe or a pair of pruners as                   
you agressively attack an important gardening chore. When the                   
job is done, you feel better and the garden looks better.                       
                                                                                
 The ability to create something beautiful and to maintain                      
order around the home through gardening gives many of us a sense                
of peace and tranquility as we escape from the chaos surrounding                
us.                                                                             
                                                                                
 To insure that we gain these benefits from gardening, however,                 
we must avoid the temptation to take the rules of survival in                   
modern life into the garden with us. The garden is not a place                  
to compete, not even with yourself. Don't strive for perfection,                
nothing in nature is truly perfect.                                             
                                                                                
 There are always insects, diseases, weeds and strange plants                   
in the wrong place. Instead, try to recognize and accept the                    
natural order of perfection that allows plants and animals to                   
survive together. Take time to see the beauty in a spider web                   
or a bird in flight, even if you know it will eat your blue-                    
berries. Settle for a little less imposed perfection and allow                  
your spirit to heal from daily stresses as your garden grows.                   
                                                                                
 If you discover that your garden is more than you can manage                   
in the August heat and gives you no time to savor the rewards                   
of hard work, find easier ways to do the job. If the vegetable                  
garden is too big, plow part of it under and plant a cover crop. If             
there is too much area and parts of the lawn are hard to mow,                   
plant ground covers. If the hedge takes more pruning than your                  
arms can give, consider maintaining it in a natural shape instead               
of a formal one.                                                                
                                                                                
 Plan your garden so that as you grow older, you can continue                   
to gain the satisfaction of caring for plants. Perhaps some                     
beds can be built higher so that bending and stooping can be                    
avoided. Containers can be placed on the patio for vegetables                   
and flowers. At the very least, remember that moderation in                     
the garden is the more productive and healthful approach, and                   
will make your gardening years more fruitful.                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
   Houseplants from the Garden                                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
 If you start planning now, the first frosts of Autumn do                       
not have to bring to an end the pleasures provided by your flower               
beds and vegetable gardens. Many plants can be brought inside                   
to provide winter color and, if you have a sunny window or green-               
house, an occasional harvest.                                                   
                                                                                
 If you have plants already growing in containers, it will                      
be a simple matter to bring them indoors. Start moving them                     
indoors at night when the temperature drops below 60 degrees                    
F. to maintain their vigor and flower productivity.  When it                    
is time to leave them indoors, place them where they receive                    
sunlight equivalent to what they received out-of-doors.                         
                                                                                
 Among the plants that are easy to maintain indoors are                         
begonia, coleus, geraniums and ivy. Hanging baskets of these                    
plants thrive in a bright window. Even petunias can be brought                  
indoors and maintained in a southern-facing window.                             
                                                                                
 Some vegetables do well indoors in a southern window, parti-                   
cularly leafy greens such as lettuce, and fast growing crops                    
such as radishes. However, with sufficient light, tomatoes will                 
give fruit throughout the winter. Try small fruited varieties                   
for greatest success.                                                           
                                                                                
 Many herbs also are welcome additions to the winter window                     
garden. Chives, parsley, and thyme will grow well and receive                   
frequent use in the kitchen.                                                    
                                                                                
 Starting new plants from seed may be the best way to introduce                 
such fast-growing annuals as lettuce, marigolds and zinnias                     
to indoor culture. Start several seeds in each pot and remove                   
the weakest ones to achieve proper spacing for the container.                   
                                                                                
 Remember that plants that require full sun in the summer                       
will be equally demanding in the winter, and perform best in                    
a southern window. Be ready to protect them from the cold night                 
temperatures penetrating the glass by drawing a shade or curtain.               
                                                                                
 Experiment with different types of plants and different                        
varieties of the same plant to see what will do best in the                     
winter conditions of your home.                                                 
   Fall Vegetable Gardening                                                     
                                                                                
 By now, most of your spring crops are out of the garden                        
and weeds are beginning to encroach on what once was a productive               
space. Don't yield to the summer doldrums, lay in the sun, and                  
let the weeds take over.                                                        
                                                                                
 Weeds will increase your garden work by providing a home                       
from which insects and diseases can attack your vegetables as                   
well as being the source of a thousand more seeds and weeds.                    
They will gradually make their way to your still productive                     
garden space and reduce the harvest by competing for light,                     
water, and nutrients.                                                           
                                                                                
 These potential problems can be stopped before developing                      
by planting another crop in those empty spaces. These vegetables                
can be harvested at the end of the growing season, just before                  
the first fall frost. Some of the best quality produce comes                    
from the warm days and cool nights of the fall season. These                    
environmental conditions add sugar to sweet corn and crispness                  
to carrots.                                                                     
                                                                                
 Succession plantings of warm season crops (such as corn                        
and beans) can be harvested until the first killing frost. Cool                 
season crops such as kale, turnips, mustard, broccoli, cabbage,                 
and spinach grow well during the fall days and withstand light                  
frosts.                                                                         
                                                                                
 Timely planting is a key to a successful fall garden. To                       
determine the time to plant a particular vegetable for the latest               
harvest in your area, you need to know the average first date                   
of killing frost and the number of days to maturity for the                     
variety you are growing (found on most seed packets). By subtracting            
the number of days to maturity from the first date of killing                   
frost, you can determine the last date to plant. Since crop                     
maturity is slower in the cool temperature of fall and frost                    
could come early, it is wise to allow two additional weeks in                   
figuring a final planting date.                                                 
                                                                                
 Remember to restore fertility to the soil before planting                      
your fall crops by working in a light layer of compost or aged                  
manure or a small application of a complete chemical fertilizer.                
                                                                                
 Dry soil may present a problem with getting a uniform germi-                   
nation from seeds during midsummer. Plant your fall vegetables                  
when the soil is moist after a rain, or thoroughly water the                    
area before you plant. Cover your seeds about twice as deeply                   
as you did last spring.                                                         
                                                                                
 Young plants also need sufficient moisture. Irrigate when                      
necessary, and prevent weed growth by cultivation and mulching.                 
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
  Late Summer Care of Trees and Shrubs                                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
 Late summer care of trees and shrubs consists more of tasks                    
to be avoided than those that should be done.                                   
                                                                                
 Landscape plants should neither be pruned nor fertilized                       
from now until late fall. Both activities only stimulate a flush                
of growth that will not have time to mature or harden before                    
the first killing frosts. Such succulent, tender growth is easily               
killed and will leave the plant unattractive throughout the                     
winter.                                                                         
                                                                                
 In addition, heavy pruning in late summer is a devitalizing                    
process. It removes much of the plant's reserves, weakens it                    
and makes it more susceptible to winter injury.                                 
                                                                                
 Late summer pruning should be limited to minor corrective                      
pruning of damaged wood. Special attention should be given to                   
avoiding damage to trees and shrubs while maintaining the lawn. The             
tender bark of young plants can be damaged by the nylon threads                 
of various weed-cutting devices. While the damage may hardly                    
be noticeable, it can increase the susceptibility of the plants                 
to insects, disease and winter damage.                                          
                                                                                
 In a similar manner, even mature trees can be damaged and                      
severely weakened by lawn mowers. Perhaps the easiest way to                    
avoid these problems is to control weeds and lawn grass around                  
the base of landscape plants with ground covers such as vinca                   
or ivy, or by using mulch.                                                      
                                                                                
 If a mulch is used, remember that coarse mulches, such                         
as straw, hay or pine needles, may provide winter shelter for                   
mice that can tunnel to the base of the plant and chew the bark. To             
control this, keep the mulch back six inches from the trunk.                    
                                                                                
 Avoid damage from late summer construction projects. Digging                   
a trench for utility lines can be very damaging. If a mature                    
tree loses all roots on one side, it will be severely and probably              
fatally damaged. Unfortunately, it can take months or years                     
for damage to become visible and you may not realize what caused                
the problem.                                                                    
                                                                                
 There are several other construction activities that damage                    
landscape plants. Soil compaction is created by running heavy                   
vehicles in the area of plants. A change in grade can remove                    
soil and roots; or it may accumulate soil around the base of                    
plants and thereby starve the roots for air. Physical damage                    
from running into the plants with equipment is another problem.                 
                                                                                
 Perhaps the most important thing you can do to insure healthy                  
growth during late summer is maintain an adequate water supply. This            
is particularly true for plants that have suffered from construction            
or winter damage, or for those that have recently been trans-                   
planted. Water by soaking the ground slowly and deeply.                         
                                                                                
 However, in heavy clay soil, avoid overwatering. If a plant                    
looks wilted but it has rained or you've watered recently, check                
the soil before you drag out the hose. Water logged soil will                   
deprive the roots of air and lead to a wilted, weak plant.                      
                                                                                
 The hot, dry days of August can cause young plants to give                     
off water faster than the roots can take it up, resulting in                    
wilting. Where feasible, shading the new plants can help correct                
this problem until the roots can develop fully.                                 
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
   Saving Seeds                                                                 
                                                                                
 Dependable commercial seed growers are the best source                         
of seed for gardening.  They make a business of choosing proper                 
growing regions and knowing the techniques for providing disease-free           
uniform seed.                                                                   
                                                                                
 However, some home vegetable gardeners may want to save                        
the seeds from a variety that is not available commercially,                    
or to perpetuate a disease-resistant variety or one that is                     
well adapted to the locality. It is possible to save the seed                   
in some self-pollinated annuals, such as lettuce, beans, peas                   
and tomatoes. Saving seeds from cross-pollinated crops is not                   
generally recommended for the novice due to the problems with                   
selection, hand pollination, biennial habits and genetic variability.           
                                                                                
 To save seed for beans and peas, allow the seed pods to                        
turn brown on the plant.  Harvest the pods and air dry them                     
for one to two weeks.  Shell the pods and store the seeds in                    
a cool, dry environment in a paper bag.  A cool environment                     
is one that is below 50 degrees.                                                
                                                                                
 To save lettuce seed, cut the seed stalks when they appear                     
fluffy, just before all seeds are completely dried.  The seeds                  
will fall off the stalk and be lost if they are allowed to mature               
on the plant.  Dry the harvested seed stalk, shake the seeds                    
off and store in a cool, dry place.                                             
                                                                                
 To save tomato seeds, pick fruit from the desired plants                       
when it is ripe.  Cut open the fruit and squeeze the pulp into                  
a container.  Add a little water, then let seeds and pulp ferment               
two to four days at room temperature, stir occasionally.  When                  
the seeds settle, pour off the pulp and spread the seeds thinly                 
to dry thoroughly.  Store in a cool, dry place.                                 
                                                                                
 Seed saving exchange clubs are becoming popular with gardeners                 
who enjoy saving and trading seeds.  These exchange make heirloom               
and unusual varieties available to their members.                               
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
December 1985 Question Box                                                      
                                                                                
Flowering plants - Cyclamen, caleolaria, cineraria   37 lines                   
Apple trees from seed                                28 lines                   
Rhododendrons - Fall bloom                           26 lines                   
Why hollies fail to bear                             25 lines                   
Hoya - Inducing flowers                              19 lines                   
Creeping groundcovers                                31 lines                   
Amaryllis                                            17 lines                   
Staghorn fern                                        23 lines                   
Growing vegetables indoors                           48 lines                   
Turf damage by skunks                                25 lines                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
I would like a flowering plant for a cool room in my house. Any                 
suggestions?                                                                    
                                                                                
Cyclamen, calceolaria, and cineraria flowers offer a wide range                 
of color during the winter in a cool room. All of these plants                  
like night temperatures from 65 degrees F down to 50 degrees and                
plenty of light.                                                                
                                                                                
Although it is not related to violet, cyclamen is commonly called               
Swiss, Alpine or Persian violet. The flowers may be white with a                
red-violet or purple center or they may be pink, salmon, red, or                
lavender. The unusual flowers consist of oval petals, which are                 
swept back from the center. In some varieties, the petals are                   
fringed. Cyclamen requires frequent light waterings. Be sure that               
the water does not stand on the exposed cormlike structure for                  
this will cause it to rot. When flowering stops, allow the leaves               
to continue to grow until they yellow. Then let the soil dry out                
and once the ground has warmed bury the pot outdoors for the                    
summer. Be sure to bring cyclamen in before the first frost. Once               
indoors, water and feed to generate new growth.                                 
                                                                                
Pocket plant or slipperwort, some common names of calceolaria,                  
refer to it's pouch-shaped flowers. The flowers come in a range                 
of warm colors: yellow, orange, bronze, red, and rose. Some                     
flowers have splotches of one color on a background of another                  
color, such as bronze on yellow. Take care in watering calceo-                  
laria because water will spot the flowers.                                      
                                                                                
Cineraria's daisy-like flowers form a canopy over the foliage in                
a range of colors from white with a dark center to pink, scarlet,               
red, crimson, sky blue or purple. Both cinerarias and calce-                    
olarias benefit from "double potting" in which a small pot                      
is placed inside a larger one. The gap between the pots is filled               
with soil or sphagnum moss which is kept wet so that the inner                  
pot stays moist. Although they are perennials, cinerarias and                   
calceolarias will grow and bloom better if started anew each                    
year. Whether you chose one, two, or all three, purchase a plant                
in bloom so that you can see the color of the flowers.                          
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
Can I start apples from seeds?                                                  
                                                                                
The likelihood of growing a tree which bears quality fruit from a               
seed extracted from an apple is extremely slim as the varieties                 
of apples we enjoy eating result from genetic crossing or                       
selected mutations called sports. The seeds produced from these                 
cultivars do not produce trees or bear fruit which resemble their               
parents.                                                                        
                                                                                
The primary use of seed-grown apple trees is for root stocks for                
grafting known varieties of apples. However if you would like to                
experiment, now is a good time to begin the cold treatment                      
required for apple seeds to germinate in spring.                                
                                                                                
Stratification is the name given to cold storage of seeds to                    
enhance germination. In fact, some seeds will not germinate at                  
all until they receive cold temperatures for a specific amount                  
of time. Apple seeds must be held for 60 to 90 days at 35 to                    
45 degrees F in order for the seeds to germinate. Some nurseries                
plant seeds in the fall so that they naturally receive their                    
chilling requirement. If your soil is not frozen, plant seeds                   
outdoors in shallow (1/2 inch) depressions. In the spring, you                  
will need to break the soil crust over these seeds to allow the                 
seedlings to grow straight. Alternatively, you can stratify                     
seeds in the coldest part of your refrigerator until you are                    
ready for spring planting.                                                      
                                                                                
Apple seedlings that do not grow to a satisfactory  size in one                 
year should be removed. Trees grown from seeds tend to be quite                 
large. Plan accordingly in your landscape.                                      
                                                                                
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Why did my azaleas and rhododendrons bloom last month?  Will they               
bloom again in spring?                                                          
                                                                                
Extended dry periods like the one we experienced this summer will               
cause rhododendrons to go dormant. When the hurricanes affected                 
our weather last month, the deluge of rain caused the rhododen-                 
dron buds to break dormancy and bloom. The bloom last month                     
probably was not a full bloom; that is, the whole flower cluster                
did not open as it does in the spring. Unfortunately, buds that                 
did not open in those clusters will probably be killed this                     
winter because they may not be prepared for cold weather.                       
                                                                                
Because flower buds are initiated in early summer, those florets                
which opened this fall will not bloom again this spring. Thus                   
bloom was sparse this fall and will be sparse in the spring.                    
Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do to prevent this                      
since it is a weather-related problem.                                          
                                                                                
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I looked forward to decorating my home with boughs from my holly                
tree. But it has no berries on it. What could be wrong?                         
                                                                                
There are a number of reasons why hollies fail to produce                       
berries. Hollies are dioecious. That is, the plants have male and               
female flowers on different plants. The berries are produced only               
from the female flowers and it is necessary to have a male plant                
nearby to provide pollination. The female of most varieties will                
flower but will not set fruit if they are not pollinated.                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Bees are the principal pollinators of holly, thus these insects                 
must be present when the flowers open if an abundant crop of                    
berries is to be produced. If insecticides toxic to bees, such as               
those containing carbaryl, were used during flowering, bees in                  
the area may have been killed before pollination consequently no                
fruit set.                                                                      
                                                                                
Late freezes or frost may kill flower buds or flowers of holly                  
before they are pollinated. This often occurs in Chinese hollies                
since they are usually early flowering. The flower buds, which                  
develop late in the summer, may be killed by cold snaps in spring               
thus eliminating the possibility of a berry crop the next summer.               
                                                                                
Hollies occasionally shed their berries in extremely dry periods,               
especially in early summer. Also, about 8 years is required for                 
the plants to become old enough to produce berries.                             
                                                                                
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My neighbor gave me a Hoya cutting. Hers is blooming like mad                   
while mine has never produced a flower. How can I get mine to                   
bloom?                                                                          
                                                                                
Hoya carnosa, or wax plant, produces clusters of waxy-looking                   
pale pink or white flowers however it is rather picky in its                    
bloom requirements. First, the plants are slow to flower often                  
taking 3-4 years to do so. They will  bloom alittle sooner if                   
potbound. Second, they must also have full sun in order to bloom.               
Even if potbound, the hoya won't bloom if grown in shade.                       
                                                                                
Hoya requires fertilization spring through fall, but reduced food               
and water during the winter. The plant needs a winter rest in                   
order to bloom. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizer when the plant                   
should be forming flower buds in late winter. If your plant still               
won't bloom, try shocking it by changing the amount of light and                
water it receives or by slightly raising or lowering the tempera-               
ture, but don't let the plant get chilled. To keep hoya blooming,               
don't pinch off old flower spurs because new flowers grow out of                
these points.                                                                   
                                                                                
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I'm interested in a creeping vine for a naturalized area. I've                  
heard crownvetch described as the "miracle groundcover."  Would                 
this be a good choice?                                                          
                                                                                
Coronilla varia is a hardy perennial which produces a luxuriant                 
mat of foliage and bears pink flowers throughout much of the                    
season. It spreads rapidly by underground stems and may be too                  
vigorous for most gardens. In order to get rid of the plant,                    
all parts must be dug out and herbicides may have to be used. In                
fact, because of its extreme vigor, I would advise against its                  
intended use except in the most out of the way places.                          
                                                                                
While not strictly vines, the following are suggested under-                    
stories that offer flower interest. For sun to partial shade,                   
Hypericum calycinum, or Potentilla x Tonguei are good choices.                  
Hypericum is a semi-evergreen shrub that will grow 12 to 18" high               
with prostrate branches spreading 18 to 24". It is fast growing                 
and spreads from underground runners. Bright yellow flowers cover               
the plant from June to September. For a shorter plant, try                      
potentilla. It only reaches a height of 3" and has a spread of                  
18". Potentilla is covered with crimsoncentered yellow flowers                  
from June until frost. Both plants work well in informal areas.                 
                                                                                
For a shady location, it would be better to plant either Lamium                 
maculatum 'Beacon Silver' or Vinca minor, periwinkle. Lamium's                  
silvery leaves edged in green can brighten a dark spot. Small                   
clusters of pink flowers offer a secondary interest in the spring               
and may sporadically appear again in the fall. Vinca forms an                   
evergreen groundcover 3-6" high and roots along the stem. A                     
multitude of lilac-blue flowers open March through April or May                 
and will appear sporadically throughout the season.                             
                                                                                
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I have received a beautiful potted Amaryllis. I know these bulbs                
can be stored to use again next year. How do I do this?                         
                                                                                
After-bloom care is necessary for next season's flowers on                      
Amaryllis. In general, at least four strong leaves are needed for               
each flower stalk. As flowers fade remove the spent blooms                      
including the seed pod, but leave the stem to wither on its own.                
Locate the plant in a room which is 70 degrees F by day and 60                  
degrees F at night. Keep the bulb well-watered and fertilized                   
with a houseplant fertilizer, such as 5-10-10, weekly until early               
July. Then stop fertilizer application and taper off watering                   
gradually throughout the month. Once the foliage is dry, trim it                
off and store the pots in a dark location until next November                   
when they can be watered and forced into bloom for the holidays.                
                                                                                
Every two or three years, it is best to repot Amaryllis bulbs in                
fresh media and increase the pot size if necessary. If offsets                  
are present, you may pot them individually. Immature bulbs                      
generally require 2-3 years to reach blooming size.                             
                                                                                
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I've had a staghorn fern for several years. At first it grew                    
pretty well, but recently has begun to decline. What is wrong?                  
                                                                                
In the wild, staghorn ferns grow epiphytically, that is, living                 
on the surface of another plant, in the crotches of tree tops.                  
The ferns have two types of fronds: shield fronds and fertile                   
fronds. The shield or basal frond is sterile. It clasps the tree                
bark to anchor the fern and may form a cup in order to catch                    
debris, water, and nutrients. The fertile fronds are the most                   
visible and resemble deer antlers, thus the plants' name.                       
The staghorn fern may be grown in a pot or anchored on a wooden                 
slab like a hunting trophy. If grown in a pot, provide ample                    
humus and keep the cup formed by basal fronds moist. Immerse                    
roots for ten minutes in likewarm water once or twice a week                    
if plant is mounted on a slab of wood. Give staghorn ferns a                    
bright spot out of the sun with cool night temperatures.                        
                                                                                
If the green fronds continually die back, the fern is probably                  
receiving too much heat or hot drafts. If the green fronds dry                  
out and turn brown, the plant is either getting too much sun or                 
inconsistent watering. Be sure to deep water staghorn ferns, but                
allow to dry out slightly before next watering.                                 
                                                                                
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Is it possible to grow vegetables indoors during the winter? I do               
not have a greenhouse, but I am especially interested in tomatoes               
and other salad crops which have little flavor when bought at the               
grocery.                                                                        
                                                                                
A sunny south-facing window is almost a must for indoor vegetable               
growing. Fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers will                  
also need supplemental light, such as a combination  warm                       
white/cool white fluorescent fixture. Insufficient light will                   
result in tall, spindly plants and failure to flower and set                    
fruit.                                                                          
                                                                                
The small-fruited varieties of tomatoes such as Tiny Tim, Small                 
Fry and the paste tomato, Roma, may be raised quite satisfactori-               
ly in the home. They will challenge your gardening ability, and                 
supply fruits which can be eaten whole, cooked, or served with                  
salad. The Tiny Tim tomato grows to a height of about 12-15".                   
Small Fry, which is about three feet tall, and Roma will need                   
more space and should be located on a enclosed porch or in a sun                
room. Several new varieties have been developed for hanging                     
baskets. Check catalogs for greenhouse cultivars.                               
                                                                                
Some of the small-fruited peppers may be grown as house plants.                 
Like tomatoes, they prefer warm, bright conditions in order to                  
grow well. If temperatures are kept between 60 and 85 degrees F                 
and light is sufficient, tomatoes and peppers will be ready to                  
harvest about ten to twelve weeks after transplanting. Seed-grown               
plants will take an additional six to eight weeks to bear fruit.                
                                                                                
For a quick-growing crop, try radishes. These must be grown very                
rapidly if they are to be crisp and succulent. Scatter radish                   
seeds on moist soil in a six or eight-inch pot. Cover with 1/4                  
inch of soil and place a piece of glass or plastic wrap over the                
pot to conserve moisture until the seeds germinate. Thin to about               
1 and 1/2 inches apart after the first true leave appear.                       
                                                                                
Carrots are slower growing, but they can be grown in the same way               
as radishes. Use the small-rooted varieties, such as Little                     
Finger, for best results indoors.                                               
                                                                                
Experiment with various types of lettuce. Leaf lettuce and the                  
miniture Tom Thumb butterhead are some to try. Space them                       
according to package directions. Keep lettuce moist and in a very               
sunny spot.                                                                     
                                                                                
Lettuce, radishes and carrots can be grown where the temperature                
is below that needed for tomatoes and peppers. They will produce                
crops when kept above freezing, quite readily in warm locations                 
and more slowly when cool. Take care not to overwater plants when               
the temperature is low.                                                         
                                                                                
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Holes have been appearing in my yard. They are about three inches               
deep. The lawn company says it is not grubs. There are no mole                  
tunnels. What could this be?                                                    
                                                                                
The damage you describe sounds like the digging damage typically                
caused by skunks. Skunks dig cone-shaped holes 3-4" deep in the                 
ground searching for food. Some sod may be overturned in the                    
process especially where grubs have severed the grass blades                    
from the roots.                                                                 
                                                                                
Skunks do like to eat grubs which is one common reason they dig                 
in turf. However, skunks will eat other animal material which is                
high in protein and rich in calories. Some other insects in the                 
soil may have been their objective. Yellow jacket wasp larvae and               
other insects below the soil will attract them.                                 
                                                                                
The broad range of foods eaten by skunks is similar to that eaten               
by raccoons which occasionally dig at lawns. One way to find out                
which animal you are dealing with is to set several pieces of                   
cardboard covered with flour in areas where the lawn is most                    
disrupted. Animals travelling along the route will leave their                  
footprints. A book on animals tracks will let you to compare your               
visitor's tracks with common woodland animals. (Adapted from a                  
column by John K. Arbogast, Roanoke City Extension Agent)                       
November Question Box                                                           
                                                                                
Celery cabbage              16 lines                                            
Ornamental currant          36 lines                                            
Soil acidity                28 lines                                            
Hollow nuts                 40 lines                                            
Sweet gum                   64 lines                                            
Ming aralia                 18 lines                                            
Small aesculus species      36 lines                                            
Wild garden                 34 lines                                            
Spicebush                   30 lines                                            
Fig                         12 lines                                            
                                                                                
This material was prepared by  Virginia Nathan, Horticulture                    
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Special-               
ist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has                   
been developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                   
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
I noticed a strange vegetable that looked something like celery                 
in the supermarket. It was called celery cabbage. Can you tell me               
something about how to use and grow it?                                         
                                                                                
Celery cabbage is the most common name, but this green vegetable                
is also called bok-choy or pak-choi. It is a sweetly flavored,                  
lettuce-like vegetable with large crisp leaves. It is used fresh                
in salads, boiled as greens, sauteed, or wokfried.                              
                                                                                
Celery cabbage is in the Brassica family (related to broccoli                   
and cabbage) and requires cool weather during most of its growing               
season. It can be planted in early spring or grown as a fall                    
crop. It can be direct seeded, but in some areas transplants are                
available. Look for a seed source in a catalog which speci-                     
alizes in oriental vegetables. Most varieties mature in 70 to 80                
days.                                                                           
                                                                                
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In Europe I saw some attractive hedge plants called alpine                      
currants. I like currants somewhat, but I'm sure most of the                    
fruit will go to the birds which like them. Will these bushes                   
grow in Virginia?                                                               
                                                                                
In addition to the currants and gooseberries grown principally                  
for their edible fruit, there are several species that are purely               
ornamental. The mountain, or alpine, currant (Ribes alpinum) is a               
native of Europe, but it is grown in this country as well, mostly               
as a hedge plant and for attracting birds. Unlike garden cur-                   
rants, the male flowers and female flowers are on separate plants               
of alpine currants. Because only the female plants produce                      
fruits, some male plants nearby are necessary to insure fruiting.               
Most available cultivars are male clones which produce no fruit                 
but tend to be more rust resistant. Plants grow three to eight                  
feet tall and nearly as wide. They grow best in semishaded                      
locations and are hardy throughout Virginia.                                    
                                                                                
Another ornamental currant is the flowering, or winter, currant                 
(Ribes sanguineum). A native of western North America, it is an                 
attractive shrub, producing pink, red, or white flowers in the                  
spring (depending on the cultivar), and blue-black berries later                
in the season. Flowering currant is hardy only where winters                    
seldom get much below zero. They grow to a height of ten to                     
twelve feet.                                                                    
                                                                                
Be aware that currants are alternate hosts to the white pine                    
blister rust disease and their planting is restricted in many                   
areas of Virginia. In these counties, a permit must be obtained                 
from the Commissioner of Agriculture and Commerce in Richmond                   
before planting. No permit will be issued if the plants are to be               
within 1500' of sizable plantings of ornamental or commercial                   
white pine stands. At present, 33 counties are on the restricted                
list. Contact your extension agent for regulations concerning                   
growing currants in your area.                                                  
                                                                                
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How do I make soil more acid for azaleas and camellias?                         
                                                                                
A number of shrubs which are useful in the home landscape or                    
garden, grow best in an acid soil with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5. Some                 
of the plants which require this low pH are andromeda, azalea,                  
blueberry, camellia, laurel, and rhododendron.                                  
                                                                                
To lower the pH of a soil, first have your soil tested by your                  
extension service to determine its present pH level. If it is                   
higher than pH 5.5, you will need to apply flowers of sulfur or                 
aluminum sulfate to make it more acid. One pound of sulfur or 2                 
pounds of aluminum sulfate per 100 square feet lowers the pH                    
of loam soil about 1 pH value. Work the acidifying material into                
the top several inches of soil and water thoroughly.                            
                                                                                
Sandy soils need only half as much of the acidifying material as                
loam. Therefore, use 1/2 pound of sulfur or 1 pound of aluminum                 
sulfate per 100 square feet for a sandy soil to reduce the pH                   
level 1 pH value. Clay soils need approximately twice as much                   
sulfur or aluminum sulfate as loam to lower the pH. Therefore,                  
use 2 pounds of sulfur or 4 pounds of aluminum sufate per 100                   
square feet to make a clay soil 1 pH value lower (more acidic).                 
                                                                                
After 3 or 4 months, test the soil again for pH. You may need to                
apply more sulfur or aluminum sulfate to secure the desired pH                  
level. Since the procedure of lowering an area's pH takes some                  
time, consider beginning the process now so that your planting                  
bed will have the proper pH at spring planting time.                            
                                                                                
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What causes the nuts on my walnuts and pecans to have no meat                   
inside?                                                                         
                                                                                
Walnut, butternuts, pecans, and hazelnuts that have poorly                      
developed or shriveled and decayed fruit result mostly from                     
problems which began early in the season. At this time of the                   
year, it is difficult or impossible to determine the exact                      
cause, but consider the following suggestions:                                  
Symptom                               Possible Cause                            
1. Fruit absent                       Incomplete pollination due                
                                      to adverse weather during                 
                                      fruit set or lack of a                    
                                      pollinating variety                       
2. Fruit shriveled, but not decayed   Water deficit which could                 
                                      have been due to low soil                 
                                      moisture, crown gall or                   
                                      impaired root system                      
3. Fruit decayed                      a. Insect injury followed                 
                                         by invasion by decay                   
                                         organisms                              
                                         (this would have                       
                                         happpened when the nuts                
                                         were quite small and the               
                                         husk was soft)                         
                                                                                
                                      b. Anthracnose (a fungal                  
                                         disease)                               
                                      c. Bacterial blight                       
                                         (English walnuts are                   
                                         susceptible)                           
                                                                                
If the problem was discovered this fall, next year would be the                 
time to collect specimens. Inspect nuts throughout the growing                  
season for insect injury or disease. Submit specimens to your                   
extension service when symptoms are first noticed.                              
                                                                                
For trees in the home yard, sanitation measures are important.                  
Rake and destroy fallen tree litter before spring arrives.                      
Provide fertilizer in the spring and, where practical, water                    
during dry periods. Water is particularly important for nut                     
development. Consult your extension agent for chemical control of               
insects and fungi if necessary.                                                 
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
This autumn I noticed a tree with 5-pointed, nearly star-shaped                 
leaves which had such beautiful fall color, reds and scarlet. It                
reminded me somewhat of a maple tree, but it is not one that I                  
know. Can you identify this tree?                                               
                                                                                
The sweet gum (Liquidambar styraciflua) is one of the most                      
beautiful trees in its fall color. Its leaves turn from a bright,               
shiny green to a gorgeous crimson in autumn. With five to seven                 
lobes and serrated edges, the 5- to 6-inch wide, star-shaped                    
leaves are quite like those of maples. However, sweet gum leaves                
are born on the stems alternately instead of opposite one                       
another, as are maple leaves.                                                   
                                                                                
The fruit of the sweet gum is another distinctive feature of the                
tree. Prickly globes about 1 inch in diameter turn from green to                
brown in the fall. These fruit can be quite a nuisance in areas                 
where people walk, but they are highly sought after as an                       
ingredient in pine cone and seed wreaths and other seasonal                     
arrangements and decorations.                                                   
                                                                                
The bark on older sweet gum trees is deeply furrowed. The twigs                 
of the sweet gum are covered with corky bark that forms wing-like               
ridges similar to those on winged euonymous. The overall shape of               
the tree is pyramidal making it an excellent lawn tree.                         
                                                                                
The roots are fleshy, consequently the tree tends to be somewhat                
difficult to transplant in large sizes. (Transplant sweet gums no               
larger than 1-1/2 to 2 inches in trunk diameter.) Sweet gums tend               
to prefer a moist, slightly acidic, planting site with full sun.                
Avoid using this tree in areas where air pollution is a problem                 
or where the root system will be restricted.                                    
                                                                                
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I have a large ming aralia whose lower branches break off at the                
joints. A new shoot develops and grows in place of the lost one.                
Can you diagnose the problem?                                                   
                                                                                
Ming aralia (Polyscias fruticosa) drops leaves and branches when                
moved to a new environment, or when subjected to drafts. It is                  
also possible that you are feeding the aralia with a high                       
nitrogen product, which produces soft vegetative growth which is                
more prone to mechanical, insect, or disease related injury.                    
A liquid 5-10-10 fertilizer diluted according to label instruc-                 
tions should be applied once a month during the active growing                  
season (Mar. through Oct.) if the ming aralia is grown in a sunny               
location. Fertilization should be less if the plant is being                    
grown in light below 200 ft. candles and should be suspended                    
(Nov. through Oct.) while the plant is dormant. Provide ming                    
aralias with bright light, relative humidity of 50 percent, or                  
higher, and winter temperatures not over 70 degrees F. Water                    
thoroughly once a week when the plant is growing actively,                      
and a little less during dormancy, for a healthier plant.                       
                                                                                
 ----------------                                                               
                                                                                
Do you know of any buckeye (horse chestnut) varieties suitable                  
for a smaller home landscape? I remember these trees fondly from                
my youth, but I remember them as being huge. I would gladly plant               
one or two near my new home if I found one suitable for a                       
suburban-sized yard.                                                            
                                                                                
The Ohio buckeye, Aesculus glabra, grows to be 35-45' in height;                
the yellow buckeye, A. octandra reaches 60-75'; while the common                
horsechestnut, A. hippocastanum is 55-60' in height. Since these                
species are large trees with coarse texture, they are best suited               
to large areas such as parks and arboretums. In addition, the                   
fruit with its prickly husks, and the large leaves create                       
maintenance problems and increase fall cleanup in lawn areas.                   
Another reason few horticulturists recommend certain Aesculus is                
their tendency to develop leaf scorch by mid-summer leading to                  
early defoliation. In addition, the trees are susceptible to                    
pest problems such as powdery mildew.                                           
                                                                                
If you still want to try an Aesculus on your property, the                      
cultivars of Aesculus x carnea are smaller trees with red blooms                
and fewer leaf scorch problems, thus more suitable for specimen                 
and residential use. A. x carnea, also called red horsechestnut,                
is popular in Europe as a landscape tree in the 30-40' range.                   
Red buckeye, A. pavia, and bottlebrush buckeye, A. parviflora,                  
are smaller plants even more suited to small properties. Both                   
grow as clump-forming, multi-stemmed shrubs or small trees (under               
20') with flowering interest.                                                   
                                                                                
I advise you to locate these trees and shrubs on the edge of your               
property to minimize your maintenance duties; but be careful not                
to allow the mature canopy to overlap your neighbors' lawn and                  
create extra work for them. Perhaps an even better use for                      
Aesculus species would be in a wild or natural setting where                    
cleanup could be eliminated altogether. Moist, deep, well-drained               
soil in full sun to partial shade satisfies most species.                       
                                                                                
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I am planning a natural or 'wild' garden. I would like to know                  
where to get some plants without disturbing wild habitats.                      
                                                                                
The best source of native plants for a naturalistic garden is a                 
seedsman or nursery which specializes in such species. Plants                   
should not be collected from the wild. Unless the transplanting                 
is done with extreme care, collected plants are likely to die.                  
Wild plants should be left in their native location for all                     
to enjoy.                                                                       
                                                                                
Select species which are suitable for the soil conditions and                   
exposure of your garden. Do some research to find out whether the               
plants or seeds you desire are adapted to sun or shade, or for                  
moist or dry soils. Your must select species which are adapted to               
your particular garden, or adapt your growing area to fit                       
the plants' needs.                                                              
                                                                                
In caring for a wild garden, attempt to duplicate the conditions                
to which the plants were adapted in their native location. Only                 
moderate amounts of fertilizer are needed. A mulch of pine                      
needles, shredded leaves, peat moss, or similar organic material                
will be beneficial. For best results, pick a site with an                       
irregular terrain and the partial shade of established shrubs and               
trees.                                                                          
                                                                                
Be conservative in the use of wild flowers and native plants. If                
you are offered plants from a friend, gather only the small                     
quantity needed for a special purpose. Handle them carefully to                 
prevent wilting and damage, and get them replanted as soon as                   
possible.                                                                       
                                                                                
Occasionally, attractive wild plants are growing on construction                
sites. If you can get the landowner's permission allowing you to                
remove the plants, you may be able to save a plant with an                      
uncertain fate.                                                                 
                                                                                
 --------------                                                                 
                                                                                
I recently found a shrub in the undergrowth of a wooded area                    
which has a spicy aroma to its twigs. A friend calls it "wild                   
forsythia". What can you tell me about this bush? Is it ever                    
cultivated?                                                                     
                                                                                
Spicebush, sometimes called "forsythia of the wilds", technical-                
ly, is Lindera benzion. The shrub which grows from 6-12 feet in                 
height, when not crowded by other plants, is valuable as an                     
ornamental. In the early spring, the limbs are covered with tiny                
yellow blossoms (hence the name wild forsythia). In the fall,                   
the leaves turn a brilliant yellow especially when grown in full                
sun.                                                                            
                                                                                
The sweet fragrance of the leaves and the bark helps to identify                
the shrub. Smooth, deep green leaves produce a sweet, lemony                    
fragrance when crushed. The twigs and bark bear an especially                   
spicy scent, as do the red berries that are produced in fall. All               
plant parts have been used in potpourri.                                        
                                                                                
Spicebush can be difficult to transplant from the wild because of               
its coarse fibrous roots. Transplanted shrubs are slow to                       
re-establish themselves. If you wish to put one in your land-                   
scape, obtain a container grown nursery plant. Plant it in moist,               
well-drained soil where it will receive sun at least part of the                
day. In sunny spots, it will become a dense shrub with spring and               
fall interest.                                                                  
                                                                                
A taller Oriental species of Lindera can occasionally be found in               
garden centers. Japanese spicebush (L. obtusiloba) can be trained               
as a shrub or small tree (up to 20'). In fall, its deep yellow                  
leaves and shiny red fruits make it a desired ornamental.                       
                                                                                
 -----------                                                                    
                                                                                
Is possible to grow figs in Virginia?                                           
                                                                                
Fig production in Virginia is limited mainly to the warm coastal                
areas.  The plants are easily injured by cold and cannot be grown               
successfully without protection where winter temperatures                       
frequently drop below 20 F. Figs require a minimum of care and                  
are included in home plantings in the Tidewater area. Two                       
varieties of figs are recommended for planting in Virginia,                     
Celeste and Brown Turkey. Both are good for eating fresh when                   
fully ripe, and are excellent for preserving. A fair crop of                    
fruit may be expected the second year after planting. A single                  
plant will usually produce enough fruit for an entire family.                   
This material was prepared by  Virginia Nathan, Extension                       
Technician Horticulture, working with Diane Relf, Home Horticul-                
ture Extension Specialist. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has               
been developed for agent use in preparing the radio and newspaper               
features and is a monthly section of HortFacts.                                 
                                                                                
I already have apple trees growing on my land.  I would like to                 
try pears if they are no more work.  Are they?                                  
                                                                                
Pears are fine trees for home fruit planting.  One good feature                 
of pears is that they are not commonly damaged by insects and                   
diseases.  They can be grown quite easily with the same spray                   
program used on apples.                                                         
                                                                                
Fire blight, a bacterial disease, is the one serious problem of                 
pears in the Eastern states.  It is very destructive on suscepti-               
ble varieties, but many varieties available are quite resistant                 
to fire blight.  Select from Moonglow, Magness, Orient, Seckel or               
Keiffer.                                                                        
                                                                                
Pears are long lived and hardy.  Dwarf trees will begin to bear                 
in two or three years, and the standard sizes in five to seven                  
years.  Dwarf pears grow well along a fence or wire trellis like                
grapes.  The dwarf or standard trees are excellent for training                 
as espalier trees against the side of a house or garage.                        
                                                                                
Fall is an ideal season for planting pears.  The best time is                   
about a month after the average date of the first frost in your                 
area.  Like many other types of fruit, pears are mostly self-unf-               
ruitful.  Plant two or more different varieties to provide                      
cross pollination for good fruit set.                                           
__________________________                                                      
                                                                                
With all the rain we've been getting, some of my shrubs are                     
beginning to sprout and the dogwoods look like they're ready to                 
bloom.  I know if a cold spell hits these plants are in trouble.                
Should I wrap them in burlap or something?                                      
                                                                                
Under normal conditions, the active growth of most shrubs ends                  
during September.  In October and November when cold and freezing               
weather occurs, they move into their dormant condition.  During a               
warm and rainy fall, shrubs may be stimulated into renewed growth               
in late September and October instead of becoming dormant.  When                
exposed to a quick and severe drop in temperature tender new                    
shoots and buds may be seriously damaged.  But if cold weather                  
occurs gradually, shrubs develop a satisfactory degree of                       
dormancy and survive the winter well.                                           
                                                                                
In some cases renewed growth is accompanied by flowering which                  
should not have occured until next spring.  If the buds merely                  
swell up but do not open, they may return to a dormant condition                
and bloom next year.  The flowers which open this fall will, of                 
course, not bloom again next spring.  Most of the flower buds on                
your trees will not open in the fall. You should have a good                    
number left for next season if they escape damage by cold this                  
winter.                                                                         
                                                                                
You may wrap your shrubs in burlap to give them some protection.                
This may reduce damage by desiccation, but will probably offer                  
very slight protection from severe cold temperatures.  Broad-leaf               
evergreens benefit most from this practice; needle bearing                      
species should fare well without protection.                                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
My bunches of grapes never sweeten up in storage.  I am careful                 
to pick the fruit before frost but I am not pleased with the                    
flavor.  What can I do?                                                         
                                                                                
Grapes are different from most fruits because they do not mature                
and improve in quality after harvest.  They must develop all of                 
their sugar and fine flavor while still on the vine.  Color is a                
poor index of maturity in bunch grapes.  Many varieties change                  
color long before they are fully ripe, and practically all                      
varieties become sweeter and less acid as they mature.                          
                                                                                
For table grapes, maturity is usually determined by taste or by                 
the color of the seeds, which changes from green to brown.                      
Truly, the best way to determine when they are fully ripe is to                 
pick a few berries and taste them for sweetness.                                
                                                                                
Although the highest quality fruit may be obtained by harvesting                
fully ripened clusters, it is sometimes necessary to harvest the                
crop before the fruit is fully mature to prevent loss.  Where the               
growing season is short, a freeze or frost may damage the crop.                 
You are correct in harvesting before the cold damages the fruit,                
but the flavor of these grapes will never be quite as good.                     
                                                                                
 -----------------                                                              
                                                                                
Our budget does not allow us to buy trees from a garden center. -               
Can we move some trees from our woods into the yard?                            
                                                                                
Many native trees can be used for landscaping if care is taken in               
transplanting them. Most plants that are dug from the wild are                  
best transplanted in early spring before growth starts. This                    
requires that they be identified in a dormant condition. People                 
who can identify the plants only when they are in leaf or flower                
should mark plants during the growing season and move plants the                
following spring.                                                               
                                                                                
It is usually better to move small plants, because, despite                     
careful digging, only a small percentage of the roots will remain               
unharmed.  Trees that develop a tap root such as oaks and nut                   
trees, are particularly difficult to transplant and should                      
only be moved as very young plants.   Be sure to bring a large                  
root                                                                            
ball with the tree.                                                             
                                                                                
Despite the fact that the trees are native, some require careful                
site selection. Try to duplicate, as closely as possible, their                 
natural growing environments.                                                   
                                                                                
Unless small trees are transplanted, they will require extensive                
top pruning, too. First, the lower branches that interfere with                 
mowing can be removed. Next, branches that come out at very                     
narrow angles should be eliminated. Attention should be given to                
the spacing of branches and symmetry. Thinning of the twigs on                  
the trunk and larger branches will help compensate for the loss                 
of roots. The practice of removing the tops of trees should be                  
avoided.                                                                        
                                                                                
Young trees should be watered through the first and second                      
growing seasons. Pests and weeds must be controlled.  Wrap the                  
trunk with burlap, kraft paper or vinyl tree guards for the                     
winter to prevent sunscald and provide rodent protection.                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Why do I get conflicting advice from different so-called "garden                
experts"?  Even things I read often contradict one another.                     
                                                                                
Most horticulturists are quite sincere when they offer advice on                
growing different plants. Usually these cultural methods are                    
based on their own experience. Sometimes even expert gardeners                  
forget that conditions can vary considerably from one garden                    
to another. Some soils are heavy; others are sandy. Light,                      
moisture content and pH may vary between locations. The growing                 
environment can change quite radically from garden to garden even               
in the same neighborhood.                                                       
                                                                                
Temper what you read and hear before you go "all out" in your own               
garden. Ask your local extension agent for his/her advice. But                  
remember, you may need to do a little experimenting in your                     
specific growing environment to be successful with your planting-               
s.                                                                              
                                                                                
 --------------------                                                           
                                                                                
Grass does not grow well under my shade trees. What can I try                   
instead?                                                                        
                                                                                
It is generally best to avoid setting plants too close to trees                 
with roots near the soil surface, such as most maples. Few plants               
can successfully compete with such trees for the moisture and                   
nutrients they must have. If you wish to eliminate the grass and                
try a gound cover under the tree, a shade tolerant, trailing vine               
would be a good choice. The plants can be set some distance away                
from the tree trunk and in time the vines will cover most of the                
soil.                                                                           
                                                                                
Periwinkle (Vinca minor), Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus                      
quinquefolia), Boston Ivy (P. tricuspidata), Japanese spurge                    
(Pachysandra terminalis),and Carpet bugle (Ajuga reptans) could                 
adapt to the site. Prepare the soil by adding a layer of organic                
matter (such as leafmold or peat moss) and incorporating a                      
granular fertilizer. To keep the plants healthy, be prepared to                 
fertilize several times each year.                                              
                                                                                
 --------------------                                                           
                                                                                
When I lived in Tennessee, several mountain stewartia grew in our               
yard.  They are such beautiful trees, especially in the fall.                   
Will they grow here?                                                            
                                                                                
Mountain stewartia (Stewartia ovata) is a native plant from                     
Tennessee to Florida, but it will do well in Virginia.  It is a                 
very fine specimen tree which is attractive in all seasons.  The                
simple leaves (2 - 5" long) are dark green in the summer and                    
beautiful orange or red in the fall.  Even after leaf drop, the                 
trees retain their ornamental appeal.  The bark, which is deep                  
brown, flakes off revealing light green patches.                                
                                                                                
Mountain stewartia may be grown as a large shrub or small tree.                 
At maturity it will stand between 10 and 15' high, but it will                  
remain bushy with spreading branches.  In summer you will see 4"                
white flowers with purple stamens which form small seed capsules                
in the autumn.                                                                  
                                                                                
Though a lovely landscape plants, stewartias have not been                      
popular in the nursery trade because they are difficult to                      
transplant.  Relocating these trees must be done when the tree is               
small (under 5' tall) in the early spring.  Moist acid soil                     
(pH 4.5 to 5.5) is necessary.  Use plenty of leaf mold or peat                  
moss in the planting hole.  Mountain stewartia would fit in well                
near blueberries, rhododendrons, and other ericaceous plants.                   
                                                                                
Mountain stewartia likes sun, but it does best if it is shaded                  
during the hottest part of the day.  These trees require little                 
maintenance and are practically free of pests.  Two other                       
cultivated stewartias may be more easily found in nurseries:                    
Korean stewartia (Stewartia koreana), a hardy, pyramidal shaped                 
tree, and Japanese stewartia (Stewartia pseudo - camellia), which               
can grow to 60'.  The Japanese stewartia has smaller flowers and                
beautiful, red flaking bark.                                                    
                                                                                
________________________                                                        
                                                                                
Some of my onions are rotting in storage.  What can I do?                       
                                                                                
To have onions that keep well, you must plant one of the brown                  
storage-type varieties such as Ebenezer, Stuttgarter, or Yellow                 
Globe Danvers.  The Bermuda and White types will not keep as well               
as these brown varieties.                                                       
                                                                                
To have your brown onions keep during the fall and winter, they                 
must be harvested at the right stage of maturity and stored                     
properly.  Onions should be harvested when about two-thirds of                  
the tops have fallen over.  Unfortunately, in many parts of                     
Virginia this was a very rainy period, and many onions were                     
harvested in very moist conditions or later than they should have               
been.                                                                           
                                                                                
Careful handling to avoid bruising helps control storage rots.                  
In dry weather, onions may be pulled and left in the field for                  
several days to dry.  Then cure in a well ventilated attic or                   
porch for one to two weeks out of direct sun.  Tops may be                      
left on or cut off; but, leave at least one inch of the top when                
storing.  Thorough curing will increase storage life.                           
                                                                                
Store in shallow, slatted trays not over 2 or 3 onions deep in a                
cool, dark, dry basement room.  Ideal storage conditions are                    
temperature at 32 degrees F and relative humidity of 65-70%.                    
Sort your onions every week or 10 days, and discard any that                    
become soft or start to rot.  The important thing is for the                    
onions to stay dry in a cool, dark place.  Under such conditions                
your onions should keep until midwinter or later.                               
                                                                                
_________________________                                                       
                                                                                
Rabbits nibble on my fruit trees during the winter.  What do you                
recommend to prevent their damage?                                              
                                                                                
Rabbits are responsible for the loss of thousands of young fruit                
trees each year.  Perhaps the most satisfactory method of                       
preventing rabbit damage is the use of a mechanical guard.                      
                                                                                
Galvanized screen or "hardware cloth" with a 1/4" mesh is                       
frequently used.  A roll 36" wide may be cut lengthwise forming                 
two 18" strips.  By cutting these strips into pieces 14" long,                  
guards 14 by 18" are obtained.                                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Roll or bend the strip around the trunk of the tree so that the                 
long side is up and down the trunk and the edges overlap.  Twist                
a small wire loosely about the center to prevent the strip from                 
unrolling.  Push the lower edges well into the ground.  This                    
metal guard will last indefinitely and can be left in place all                 
year.                                                                           
                                                                                
Other methods of rabbit control have been successful.  Ordinary                 
whitewash has given good results in some instances.  A repellent                
wash recommended by the USDA, containing equal parts of fish oil,               
concentrated lime sulfur, and water is used by some commercial                  
growers.  Also, rabbit repellents under various trade names are                 
available.  All these materials may be applied with a paint brush               
to the trunk of the tree from the ground up into the scaffold                   
limbs.                                                                          
                                                                                
_________________________                                                       
                                                                                
I am considering planting a windbreak of those quick-growing,                   
hybrid poplars.  What can you tell me about these trees?  How                   
fast will they grow, and how wide do they get?                                  
                                                                                
Extensive advertising campaigns have been used to promote sales                 
of hybrid poplars.  Their primary use is for a quick growing                    
timber tree, but they may be used in the home landscape on a                    
limited basis.                                                                  
                                                                                
In your situation, you could use hybrid poplars if the windbreak                
is located away from buildings and valuable landscape plants.                   
The trees tend to be weak wooded.  Falling branches could injure                
other property.                                                                 
                                                                                
Hybrid poplars are not considered a long-lived tree.  Few live to               
be over 40 years old.  An ideal landscape use of these trees                    
would be to plant them as a nurse windbreak.  That is, plant                    
several rows of poplars first, then plant several rows of more                  
desirable windbreak species a few years later.  The poplars will                
protect the more valuable trees from wind as they become establi-               
shed.  When the other trees reach sufficient height and the                     
poplars begin to lose vigor, remove the poplars.                                
                                                                                
Hybrid poplars will grow from 45 to 60 feet tall if given plenty                
of growing room.  In the forest or as a hedge where they are                    
planted close, they can reach 80 to 90 feet in height.  Trees can               
grow up to 10' per year in optimal conditions.  Varieties                       
developed for shade trees can spread to 30-35' in diameter.                     
Screening cultivars will grow about 10' wide.  To attain maximum                
growth, the trees need to be watered, fertilized, and kept free                 
from grass and weed competition.  Use mulch and cultivation                     
equipment to keep the trunks free from weeds.  Do not use                       
herbicides as they can injure the trees.                                        
                                                                                
Rooted cuttings or small trees adapt best when spring planted.                  
They prefer a site with partial to full sun and well-drained                    
soil.                                                                           
                                                                                
Hybrid poplars are prone to winter injury.  In young trees, the                 
entire above ground portion can die back.  Fortunately, poplars                 
have a natural tendency to sprout from the roots and the tree may               
not be lost entirely.  Where there is shallow topsoil and hard                  
compacted subsoil, sprouts may appear yearly.  Prune back sprouts               
each fall.                                                                      
This material was prepared by  Virginia Nathan, Horticulture                    
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Special-               
ist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has                   
been developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                   
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
 -----------------------                                                        
                                                                                
Can I dig up my chives and parsley and grow them indoors in                     
winter, or do I need to start from seed?                                        
                                                                                
To provide chives and parsley for winter use you may transplant a               
few clumps into five or six inch pots and grow them on a sunny                  
window sill. Use a light potting soil such as you would use for                 
your flowering house plants. Water at weekly intervals with a                   
soluble house plant fertilizer to promote vigorous growth.                      
                                                                                
Since chive bulbs multiply rapidly, clumps need to be divided                   
every two or three years to prevent excessive crowding. Dividing                
your plants now will benefit them and provide you with winter                   
herbs.                                                                          
                                                                                
Parsley is a biennial which ordinarily produces leaves during the               
first season, followed by flowers and seeds the second year. If                 
you pot up some of your plants this fall, they will continue to                 
produce leaves during the winter. They will not produce flower                  
stalks because they must go through a cold dormant period to                    
cause young flowers to be formed in the crown of the plant.                     
__________________________                                                      
                                                                                
Could you suggest some nut trees which will shade my yard as well               
as produce a crop in Virginia?                                                  
                                                                                
Pecans are suitable for home planting if you select varieties                   
which are adapted for your locality. Paper-shell pecans such as                 
Stuart and Desirable may be grown in southeastern Virginia. These               
require a long growing season to allow the kernel to attain plump               
size and fill the nut. The hardy northern pecans are divided into               
two groups: 1) Colby and Posey, 2) Major Giles and Perugue. These               
varieties are somewhat smaller than the southern types, but will                
produce edible nuts during the shorter growing season of the                    
Piedmont and Mountain areas. At least one from each group should                
be planted to insure cross-pollination.                                         
                                                                                
Walnuts can also be grown in Virginia if you select the hardy                   
Carpathian or Persian types. These are similar to the commercial                
types of English walnuts which are grown in California, but are                 
more tolerant of cold climatic conditions. Colby, Hansen, Helmle                
and McKinster are suggested varieties.                                          
                                                                                
Chinese Chestnuts are resistant to the blight which killed the                  
American species many years ago. Although the nuts are not                      
identical to those from native trees, they are an acceptable                    
substitute if you like chestnuts. Choose from the varieties                     
Orrin, Crane, Nanking, Abundance and Meiling. However, be aware                 
that the flowers can have a very unpleasant odor.                               
                                                                                
To ensure pollination and fruit set, plant two or more varieties                
of each type of nut. Select a deep, well-drained site to promote                
vigorous growth and long life. The best time to plant is about a                
month after the first killing frost, once the leaves have fallen                
from the trees. Apply a two-inch mulch of sawdust, peat moss, or                
other organic material around the trunk to conserve soil moisture               
and help reduce weed competition to the newly planted trees.                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
We have a hillside which I would like to make into a rock garden.               
Many rocks are already exposed. Please give me some pointers.                   
                                                                                
A rocky hillside or ledge may be made into a rock garden with a                 
minimum of work. For the best effect, at least half of the                      
surface should be made up of exposed rocks. If more rocks are                   
needed than are already present, use weathered native stone.                    
Place the rocks in a natural position with the strata in the same               
plane as existing material. The rocks you use should be large and               
well imbedded in the soil.                                                      
                                                                                
Plan your rock garden for easy maintenance. Place some large,                   
relatively flat stones throughout the garden on which you can                   
walk and stand to weed and set out new plants.                                  
                                                                                
Good soil drainage is essential in rock gardens. Most suitable                  
plants need adequate moisture, but they cannot tolerate poor                    
drainage and wet feet. Provide an adequate depth of good soil for               
your plants in the pockets between the rocks. If the soil is                    
poor, add leaf mold, or shredded peat moss and some dried manure.               
                                                                                
Autumn is a good time to set out bulbs and perennials in rock                   
gardens. Your planting should be completed by about the time of                 
the average first frost date to allow the plants or bulbs to send               
out new roots and become established before the ground freezes.                 
Apply water as needed during the fall and early winter to keep                  
the soil moist. Use a mulch of straw, shredded leaves or similar                
material to provide winter protection and conserve soil moisture.               
                                                                                
__________________________                                                      
                                                                                
Our lawn has many shade trees and I have been saving the leaves                 
through the winter to mulch my gardens for many years. Storage                  
space is at a premium now that we have a boat. Would compost work               
as well as a mulch, and what is the best way to compost leaves?                 
                                                                                
Although you will derive greater benefits by using leaves as a                  
mulch, composting them will reduce their volume to a manageable                 
level. Compost is excellent material to improve the soil in the                 
flower or vegetable garden, but it does not act as effective-                   
ly in weed control as leaves. And, of course, it does involve the               
additional work of building a compost pile.                                     
                                                                                
To make compost, assemble your leaves, lawn clippings and other                 
plant material in a six to eight inch layer. Apply one cup of                   
ground limestone, and one cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer per square                 
yard of organic litter, and cover with about one-half inch of                   
soil. Make as many layers as necessary to utilize the leaves you                
have available. Leave the pile concave on top to collect rain to                
supply the necessary moisture. During dry spells, water the pile                
to keep the contents moist.                                                     
                                                                                
Decomposition will proceed very slowly during the winter but will               
be quite rapid next spring. Turning the pile over once a month                  
will speed the process. Compost made this way should be ready to                
use by midsummer next year. Shredding the leaves with a commer-                 
cial shredder or lawn mower before building the compost pile will               
lessen the time required to break-down the leaves. The composting               
would be complete in several months and be ready for spring use.                
                                                                                
 -----------------------                                                        
                                                                                
I have peanuts growing in my garden. I have never grown them                    
before. When are they ready to dig and eat?                                     
                                                                                
The peanut crop should be harvested about 60 days after flowering               
when the plants turn yellow, or are killed by frost. When ready                 
to harvest, the inside of the shell should be brown and the                     
seedcoat will be light pink, unwrinkled, and very thin. The                     
inside of the pods will begin to develop dark-colored veins. If                 
harvested early, the seed will not have developed their maximum                 
size in the pod. Over-mature pods will break off the vine during                
the digging operation.                                                          
                                                                                
Lift the plants carefully with a garden fork and shake off the                  
loose soil. Cure the peanuts on the vine, or pulled off in trays,               
in a warm, airy place. About 4 to 8 weeks will be needed to dry                 
the nuts before roasting, depending on the temperature and                      
relative humidity of the air.                                                   
                                                                                
Roast unshelled or shelled peanuts on a cookie sheet for about 30               
minutes in an oven preheated to 300 degrees F. Stir frequently to               
avoid scorching. The nuts should be poured out of the hot pan as                
soon as they are removed from the oven. It is better to roast                   
peanuts for too short a time than to have them overcooked. When                 
properly roasted, the skin slips easily and the kernel is light                 
brown.                                                                          
                                                                                
Shelled, roasted peanuts should be stored in tight containers in                
a refrigerator. For long storage, place them in a freezer at 0                  
degrees F or lower.                                                             
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Should I cut off the fronds of my asparagus?  If so, when?                      
                                                                                
After harvest is over, asparagus spears should be allowed to                    
grow. Asparagus has an attractive, fern-like foliage that makes a               
nice garden border. Some gardeners prefer to support the growing                
foliage with stakes and strings to keep them tidy. In high-wind                 
areas, it is a good idea to plant the rows parallel to the                      
prevailing winds so that the plants support each other to some                  
extent.                                                                         
                                                                                
In all asparagus plantings, cut the foliage down to 2" stubs                    
after frost, when the foliage yellows, but before the red berries               
fall off. A 4-6" mulch of compost, manure, leaves or other                      
material added at this time will help control weeds and add                     
organic matter and nutrients.                                                   
_______________________                                                         
                                                                                
How and when should I plant hyacinths?  Are they perennials?  Are               
they hardy?                                                                     
                                                                                
Hyacinths grow from bulbs which must be planted in the fall. They               
are easy to plant and require very little maintenance. They are                 
hardy perennials, and will continue to bloom for several years,                 
although the quality of the flower decreases each year in many                  
areas. Plant hyacinth bulbs when the soil temperature has fallen                
to 60 degrees F. In northern climates that generally occurs from                
late September to early November. In the South, the bulbs can be                
planted through December.                                                       
                                                                                
Hyacinths prefer partial shade. Avoid planting them in areas                    
which receive direct midday sun. Good drainage is essential.                    
Break up and loosen the soil to a depth of 10 inches. If the soil               
is mostly clay, mix in an organic material such as peat moss or                 
compost in amounts up to 50 percent in volume.                                  
Plant hyacinths, tulips and other large bulbs 8 inches deep (from               
ground level to the base of the bulb). Space them 6 inches apart.               
Once the bulbs are in position, cover them with about 3 to 4                    
inches of soil and water the area. Add  the remaining soil and                  
water again.                                                                    
                                                                                
Fertilization improves bulb performance and encourages longevity.               
Two fertilizing methods are recommended. One utilizes a sulfur                  
coated, slow release complete fertilizer incorporated into the                  
rooting area at the rate of one rounded tablespoon per square                   
foot. A single application will nourish the bulbs throughout the                
fall, winter and spring. The other method is an application of                  
8-8-8 (one level tablespoon) or 10-10-10 (one rounded teaspoon)                 
fertilizer per square foot in the fall. Apply again in the spring               
when the first shoots break through the ground.                                 
                                                                                
Many gardeners prefer to use bone meal as a slow release source                 
of phosphorus for their bulbs. This works very well used at the                 
rate of one teaspoon incorporated into the planting hole of each                
bulb.                                                                           
After planting, cover the area with a 3-inch layer of organic                   
mulch. Keep the soil moist, particularly during dry spells.                     
                                                                                
Avoid the temptation to plant hyacinths in stiff rows and stark                 
geometric patterns.                                                             
They look best when nestled among shrubbery or interplanted in                  
clumps with other bulb flowers. Since they grow about 10 inches                 
tall, they are especially effective in combination with daffodils               
and tulips. If hyacinths are to be used in borders, plant them                  
two or three rows deep, rather than in a single row. Mix and                    
match colors for maximum effect.                                                
                                                                                
 -------------------------                                                      
                                                                                
What should I do with empty pesticide containers?                               
                                                                                
Dispose of empty pesticide containers in the manner specified on                
their labels. Generally the recommendation is either to burn the                
container, or throw it away with trash destined for a sanitary                  
landfill.                                                                       
                                                                                
Some states have special chemical dumps for pesticides; however,                
Virginia does not have such dump sites.                                         
                                                                                
Containers designed to hold liquids should be rinsed with a small               
quantity of water. The rinse water should be poured into a spray                
tank and used.                                                                  
                                                                                
Containers designed to hold dry formulations should be burned,                  
one at a time, in a location where the smoke can not reach                      
desirable plants, people and animals. In many cases this may be                 
impossible. If so, containers should be thrown away following the               
EPA procedures below for bags of chemicals. Never burn aerosol                  
cans; they can explode.                                                         
                                                                                
The EPA suggested procedures for homeowners to dispose of small                 
quantities of waste pesticides are as follows:                                  
                                                                                
Liquid formulations in quantities of less than 1 gallon should be               
left in the original container. Make sure the cap is securely in                
place to prevent spills or leaks. Wrap in several layers of                     
newspaper and secure. The package should then be placed in a                    
trash receptacle for routine collection with municipal refuse.                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
Dry formulations in quantities of one bag or less (up to 10                     
pounds) should be secured to prevent leaking. This can be done by               
wrapping in paper or placing the package in a tight carton or                   
bag, and taping or tying it closed. Once secured, the package                   
should be placed in an appropriate trash collection receptacle.                 
                                                                                
                                                                                
Small quantities of pesticides, when handled as described above,                
do not present a hazard to trash collectors or to the environ-                  
ment. A properly operated sanitary landfill presents a large                    
dilution factor and provides sufficient containment to negate any               
hazardous effects the product may present. One should be aware of               
local ordinances and sanitary landfill rules before disposing of                
pesticides.                                                                     
                                                                                
These are the federal EPA guidelines and not those of the                       
Virginia Cooperative Extension Service. Although they seem                      
reasonable for most situations, there can be exceptions which                   
warrant further guidance. If in doubt contact your local exten-                 
sion agent, or call the Virginia Department of Agriculture and                  
Consumer Services (804/786-3798), the Virginia Department of                    
Health,  Bureau of Solid and Hazardous Waste Management (804-                   
786-1754), or the EPA (800/424-9346).                                           
                                                                                
(Excerpted from an article by Michael J. Weaver, Extension                      
Pesticide Information Coordinator)                                              
                                                                                
 -----------------------                                                        
                                                                                
Little by little, my lawn is being taken over by moss. What can I               
do to stop it?                                                                  
                                                                                
The presence of moss in a lawn indicates a basic fault in the                   
lawn environment; it rarely invades a healthy lawn. Moss is                     
usually associated with low fertility, poor subsurface drainage                 
and high soil acidity; but improper watering, too much shade,                   
soil compaction, or a combination of any of these factors can                   
lead to moss encroachment. The environmental problem must be                    
diagnosed and corrected in order to eliminate moss growth.                      
                                                                                
Lack of fertility is the most common cause of moss invasion. A                  
regular balanced fertilizer program will go a long way toward                   
preventing moss. Aerating the soil, incorporating coarse organic                
matter, and liming also discourages moss.                                       
                                                                                
Algae is another type of plant that may be found growing in moist               
areas under trees where it is often mistaken for moss. Typical                  
forms of algae are the green slimes on the trunks of trees and                  
flower pots, and the green scum on pond water. Algae is colony of               
fresh water plants with no true roots, stems or leaves. Like                    
moss, algae will return if the causal factor, usually poor                      
drainage, is not corrected.                                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
This material was prepared by  Virginia Nathan, an Extension                    
Technician, working with Diane Relf. The Virginia Gardener Question             
Box has been developed for agent use in preparing the radio                     
and newspaper features and is a monthly section of HortFacts.                   
                                                                                
Our new home does not have a root cellar like I am used to.                     
I need some tips on storing my cabbages and root vegetables                     
here.                                                                           
                                                                                
Modern homes do not have the desirable storage places which                     
were formerly available in most town and country homes. If you                  
look around however, and do a bit of innovating, you may find                   
you can locate some good storage facilities.                                    
                                                                                
Cool damp cellars are fine for beets, carrots, white potatoes,                  
and winter type cabbage. The room should be dark. Be sure to                    
provide ventilation to avoid a musty condition. If your basement                
is quite cool, preferably below 40 degrees, your stored crops                   
may last for several months. A dry, unheated basement may be                    
used by covering your produce with slightly damp peat moss or                   
a loose plastic covering to reduce water loss.                                  
                                                                                
If a suitable place is not available in the house, you may store                
your root crops, potatoes and cabbage in an unheated garage                     
or tool shed. The temperature will remain at a more uniform                     
low level if the building is insulated. Place the produce in                    
barrels or boxes to exclude light, but do provide some ventilation.             
The use of peat moss, sawdust, or plastic will help reduce water                
loss as suggested for basement storage. As the temperature gets                 
colder in early winter you may need to add insulation to avoid                  
damage by freezing.                                                             
                                                                                
A small but practical pit-type storage can be made at the edge                  
of the garden from a wooden barrel or metal drum. Lay the container             
on its side and make a hole several inches square at the top                    
of the solid end to provide the needed ventilation. Cover with                  
a piece of quarter inch hardware cloth wire screen to exclude                   
mice. Make a cover which fits tightly over the open end. Cover                  
your barrel-type pit storage with several inches of straw, coarse               
dry weeds, corn stalks, or other material. Then add several                     
inches of soil. Dig this soil from around your pit storage to                   
provide extra drainage during rainy periods. In very cold weather,              
additional insulation in the form of corn stalks or evergreen                   
boughs may be needed to prevent freezing of the crops.                          
                                                                                
__________________________                                                      
                                                                                
The flowers of the potted hydrangea which I planted outdoors                    
several years ago have changed to pink. Originally they were                    
blue. I hear this has something to do with the soil. Can you                    
explain?                                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Flowers of Florist House hydrangea, and Blue hydrangea have                     
pink or blue color depending on the pH level of the soil. Soil                  
pH is a measure of the degree, or strength, of the acidity or                   
alkalinity level in a soil. It is measured on a scale of 0 to                   
14;  7 is nuetral. Any number below 7 indicates that a soil                     
is acid (sour); any number over 7 indicates that a soil is alkaline             
(sweet). Florist and Blue hydrangeas, grown on fertile, well-drained            
soils, with a pH level of 6.5 or 7.0 will have pink flowers.                    
On acid soils with a pH 5.0 to 5.5, the flowers will be blue.                   
                                                                                
Generally blue flowers can be secured by applying an acid forming               
soil additive. These additives usually contain aluminum or sulfur.              
If you prefer the pink color, you can make the area more basic                  
by using ground limestone. Because different soil types react                   
differently to soil additives, a soil test will help you determine              
the correct amount to use on your hydrangeas.                                   
                                                                                
It's easy to collect soil samples and have them tested. Contact                 
the Cooperative Extension Service in your county for details.                   
The results you receive will advise you how to adjust the acidity               
level of the soil.                                                              
                                                                                
__________________________                                                      
                                                                                
When do I harvest and how do I preserve gourds?                                 
                                                                                
Decorative gourds should be picked when fully mature but before                 
frost to reduce the possibility of spoilage during or after                     
curing. When ripe, the stem will turn brown and start to shrivel.               
The rind should be hardening, but the skin will still be tender.                
Cut the fruits from the vines with pruning shears, leaving a                    
short section of the stem attached. This stem may drop off when                 
the gourd dries but will be attractive if it remains on the                     
fruit.                                                                          
                                                                                
Gourds must be handled with care to avoid bruises and scratches                 
which may lead to rotting. Wipe each fruit with a cloth dampened                
with rubbing alcohol to remove dirt and decay organisms. If                     
the gourds are quite dirty, they may be washed in warm soapy                    
water. Rinse in clean water to which a household disinfectant                   
has been added. Dry each fruit carefully with a soft cloth.                     
                                                                                
The gourds should be cured for about a week in a well-ventilated                
porch, garage or shed. Place the fruit one layer deep in shallow                
slatted trays or on an open shelf. During the first week of                     
curing, the skin will become quite hard and tough. Turn the                     
gourds each day and discard any that shrivel or develop soft                    
spots.                                                                          
                                                                                
An additional period of about three weeks is needed for complete                
drying. During this time the gourds may be stored in shallow                    
wood or cardboard trays in a well-ventilated room, attic or                     
garage. If no other suitable location is available, they may                    
be placed under a bed or chest. Continue to inspect the fruit                   
every few days to remove any which shrivel or show evidence                     
of decay. Gourds should not be stored in a damp basement, a                     
closed, heated room or in tight, unventilated containers. Such                  
conditions will encourage the development of mold and rot.                      
                                                                                
Well-cured, decorative gourds usually retain their attractive                   
color for at least three or four months. A protective coating                   
of shellac, floor wax or furniture wax will enchance their appearance           
and prolong their life.                                                         
                                                                                
__________________________                                                      
                                                                                
When should I order peony roots?  I do not want them to dry                     
out before I plant them. Also are they only for sunny spots?                    
And do I have to work on the soil?                                              
                                                                                
Peony tubers should be ordered now for planting in September.                   
Purchase large healthy divisions with three roots and three                     
to five buds. The roots should be nearly one inch thick at the                  
top and four to six inches long. Divisions with only one or                     
two buds will take an extra year or two before they reach the                   
age of flowering.                                                               
                                                                                
Locate your peonies in the sun. Although peonies will grow in                   
spots that are shaded 2 or 3 hours each day, they will not produce              
large flowers. When grown beneath trees or shrubs, the roots                    
of the larger plants take up water that the peonies need. Also                  
remember to plant peonies where they will be sheltered from                     
strong winds which may blow down the heavy blossoms.                            
                                                                                
Peonies need carefully prepared beds because they remain in                     
place for many years. Prepare the soil 2 to 4 weeks before planting             
time, so that it will settle thoroughly by the time you plant.                  
Spade organic matter compost, well-rotted manure, or peat moss                  
into the soil. Dig a hole 18 inches across and 18 inches deep                   
for each tuber. Space the holes so that the plants will be at                   
least 3 feet apart. Refill the hole about half full of soil                     
mixed with a handful of 10-6-4 fertilizer. Leave the rest of                    
the soil at the side until planting time.                                       
                                                                                
Start planting about a month before the average first frost                     
date in your area. Be sure to get all the tubers planted by                     
the time the first killing frost occurs so the roots will be                    
established before the soil freezes.                                            
                                                                                
Plant a garden peony tuber with the uppermost eye no more than                  
2 inches below the ground surface. Put a little soil around                     
the tuber and water thoroughly. Then fill the hole with the                     
remaining soil, and press it down firmly. Water again to settle                 
the tuber.                                                                      
                                                                                
Mulch peonies in both winter and summer. Winter mulch prevents                  
alternate freezing and thawing that pushes plants out of the                    
soil. Summer mulching discourages weed growth. Use one to two                   
inches of straw or peat moss as mulch. Add a layer of evergreen                 
boughs for winter protection.                                                   
                                                                                
 ------------------                                                             
                                                                                
This is my first year trying to grow watermelons. My vines are                  
full of fruit which are still quite small. Do you think these                   
melons will ripen? I have used black plastic to cover the soil.                 
                                                                                
Watermelon is a very tender crop requiring a long, hot growing                  
season. The plants appreciate full sun, uniform soil moisture,                  
and one or two side dressings of fertilizer during the season.                  
                                                                                
A mulch is beneficial to keep soil moisture up and weeds down.                  
Black plastic mulch may accelerate the crop by warming the soil                 
early in the season, but don't forget to remove the polyfilm,                   
or cover it with organic mulch later in the hottest part of                     
the summer. Plastic mulch alone may cause soil temperatures                     
to rise too much and overheat the roots. If you choose to keep                  
the black plastic in place, check periodically to insure that                   
the soil remains moist beneath the plastic. You may need to                     
cut holes in the plastic to aid water infiltration.                             
                                                                                
Breeding advances in resistance and compact habit have brought                  
watermelon production into the realm of more home gardeners.                    
Smaller fruited, earlier, and even seedless cultivars are now                   
available.                                                                      
                                                                                
With watermelons, more warm days mean more fruit set. When few                  
hot days and warm nights remain, remove all blossoms to hasten                  
fruit maturation. Larger, uniform, quick-to-develop fruits grow                 
when only one or two melons are left on the vine. If size is                    
not important, plants can be allowed to set more fruit. Most                    
large-fruited varieties produce one or two melons per vine. Smaller             
cultivars set more, smaller fruits.                                             
_________________________                                                       
                                                                                
Would you set me straight on the terminology associated with                    
perennials?  There are herbaceous perennials, hardy perennials,                 
bulbs, etc. What separates one from the other?                                  
                                                                                
A perennial is a plant that normally lives three years or more                  
in a given locale. Many perennials, once planted, will return                   
every year for a life time or more. Peonies are a good example                  
of very long-lived perennials; while lupines are short lived                    
and may only persist for four or five years.                                    
                                                                                
Some perennial plants must be treated as annuals when they are                  
grown beyond their native climatic requirements. The plants                     
can either be grown and enjoyed for one season, or they can                     
be lifted in fall and stored until next summer. For example,                    
dahlia tubers are often treated either way.                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
Herbaceous perennials are those with non-woody growth that usually              
dies back to the ground each winter. Black-eyed Susans and daylilies            
are typical examples of herbaceous perennials.                                  
                                                                                
Woody perennials are those plants with trunks or stems that                     
persist through the winter. They develop new spring growth on                   
those stems rather than from the root system. Most of our flowering             
shrubs like lilac and forsythia are in the woody perennial group.               
                                                                                
Plants with hardy bulbs or corms, such as daffodils, crocuses                   
and tulips are both herbaceous and perennial. Ordinarily, they                  
are considered in a group of their own because of their special                 
pattern of growth. Many plants with hardy underground storage                   
roots are long-lived perennials.                                                
                                                                                
_________________________                                                       
                                                                                
I would like to use my cold frame to keep greens growing for                    
fall and winter. How do I begin?                                                
                                                                                
Late summer and early fall is a good time for sowing some cool                  
weather crops in cold frames. If provided with adequate moisture                
and fertilization, most cool-season crops will continue to grow                 
through early winter in the protected environment of the frame. De-             
pending on the harshness of the winter and whether or not additional            
heating is used, your frame may continue to provide you with                    
fresh greens, herbs, and root crops throughout the cold winter                  
months.                                                                         
                                                                                
In summer extreme heat and intensive sunlight can damage plants.                
This can be avoided by shading with lath sashes or old bamboo                   
window blinds. Ventilation is most critical. The sash should                    
be raised to prevent the buildup of extreme temperatures inside                 
the frame. Watering should be done early in the day so that                     
plants dry before dark to help reduce disease problems. Lower                   
or replace the sash on evenings when frost threatens.                           
To increase the use of your cold frame, you may convert it to                   
a hotbed. For a manure-heated bed: dig out to 2' feet deep,                     
(deeper to add gravel if increased drainage is needed). Add                     
an 18" layer of strawy horse manure, then cover with 6" of good                 
soil. For an electric-heated bed, dig out area 8" or 9" deep.                   
Lay down a thermostatically-controlled electric cable (available                
at garden supply stores) in 6-8" wide loops, evenly spacing                     
the cable but never crossing itself. Cover the cable with 2"                    
of sand or soil. Add a layer of hardware cloth to protect cable                 
and over with 4-6" of good soil.                                                
                                                                                
_________________________                                                       
                                                                                
Can I move cherished perennials now while they are in full leaf? We             
are moving and I want to take these plants to my new garden.                    
                                                                                
Whenever you move plants it is difficult not to disturb or lose                 
some of the root system. The larger the plant, the greater the                  
possibility of disturbing the balance between the amount of                     
leaf area and the amount of roots needed to support those leaves.               
Ordinarily, try to move plants before they put on too much growth               
or before the leaves are out.                                                   
                                                                                
You can, however, move most perennials in leaf if you are extremely             
careful and take extra care after they are transplanted. Be                     
sure to move large root balls with plenty of soil attached.                     
Pay close attention to watering and drainage during establishment.              
A layer of organic mulch will benefit the plants greatly at                     
this time. Be sure to replant the perennials at the same depth                  
they were in their last location.                                               
                                                                                
_________________________                                                       
                                                                                
A neighbor showed me a copy of a computer planned garden done                   
by the Virginia Cooperative Extension Service. How can I have                   
one done?                                                                       
                                                                                
Computer-assisted garden planning is available through your                     
local extension agent. Two different methods are currently being                
employed to produce a personalized computer planned garden.                     
                                                                                
At some Virginia Cooperative Extension offices, your local agent                
will actually do a garden plan through his office computer.                     
You will be asked to supply information on the size of your                     
garden, its orientation to the sun (which direction is North),                  
the cultural methods you use (hand tools, rototilling, tractors,                
etc.), the number of adults you wish to feed with your garden,                  
and the crops you wish to grow.                                                 
                                                                                
Other VCES offices are using the publication 426-490, THE GARDEN,               
to gather your garden information for computer planning. Information            
collected on this form is processed at Virginia Tech. The results               
are then returned to you or your agent.                                         
                                                                                
It is a good idea to contact your local extension agent now                     
to make a plan for next year's garden. The computer plan you                    
receive will help you compare your present garden layout to                     
the computer's suggestions. It will also help you plan any changes              
you wish to implement.                                                          
                                                                                
Be sure to ask your agent how to have your soil tested at the                   
same time. The computer plan and soil test results you receive                  
will help prepare you for next growing season.                                  
                                                                                
 ---------------------                                                          
                                                                                
What can you tekk me about milorganite?                                         
                                                                                
The Massachusetts Cooperative Extension Service monthly newsletter,             
Greenflash, provided this information on milorganite in their                   
June 1985 issue.                                                                
                                                                                
Milorganite is sewage sludge that has been processed so that                    
it can be sold as fertilizer. It has about 5% nitrogen (N),                     
2-5% phosphoric acid (P2O5), up to 2% potash (K) as well as                     
small amounts of other elements.                                                
                                                                                
In addition, high levels of cadmium, a heavy metal, have been                   
found in milorganite. Cadmium is toxic to humans. As a result                   
it is recommended that milorganite be used only with ornamental                 
plants (non-food plants) to eliminate the risk of consuming                     
fruits or vegtables that have taken up cadmium from the soil.                   
                                                                                
One problem with the recommendation to use milorganite for ornamental           
plants is that it assumes that no food plants will ever be grown                
where those ornamental plants are now growing. Cadmium is not                   
very mobile. It will not move in or leach out of the soil. In                   
other words, if you apply milorganite to your soil, there will                  
be cadmium in that location for many, many years, if not forever.               
                                                                                
You must also consider the hazard of ingesting cadmium in the                   
process of working with the milorganite. This is particularly                   
of concern if young children are playing or gardening in the                    
area with the milorganite.                                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Monthly Notes July 1986                                                         
                                                                                
* Turning cabbage a quarter to a half turn if they start to crack               
will reduce water uptake. Or, use a shovel to cut through the                   
roots on one side of the plant. If that doesn't work, better                    
harvest them.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Plant Chinese cabbage in July about 90 days before the average                
date of the first fall frost in your locality. This will allow                  
crisp, firm heads to form in the cool days of early autumn.                     
                                                                                
* Fall is the best time to grow Brussels sprouts, since their                   
flavor is enhanced by a mild frost. Sow seeds directly in the                   
garden early in the month, or set out transplants. Brussels                     
sprouts are heavy feeders, so make monthly applications of                      
5-10-10 from the time the plants are 4" tall. Apply at a rate of                
1/2 cup per square yard.                                                        
                                                                                
* Strawberries need summer care. If you have your plants in                     
hills, pick off all runners. But if you planted a matted row,                   
encourage the runners to root and grow until the row is 2 feet                  
wide.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Store pesticides in a safe place in their original containers,                
away from children and pets. Use pesticides carefully in your                   
garden. Read the labels and follow the directions. The warnings                 
and precautions are for your protection.                                        
                                                                                
* Dry flowers now for use in arrangements next winter. Early                    
season blooms are better for this purpose than those that develop               
in late summer. Flowers for drying should be cut during midday,                 
in the late bud or early bloom stage.                                           
                                                                                
* Mulching herbs during hot weather protects the plant roots                    
and helps keep them healthy. Perennial herbs also need mulch                    
in the fall for protection from winter thaws and freezing.                      
                                                                                
* Japanese beetle traps should be placed at some distance from                  
the plants they are meant to protect. If placed nearby, beetles                 
lured by the trap will feed heavily on plants attractive to                     
them in the vicinity of the trap.                                               
                                                                                
* Hot, dry weather brings out the red spiders. Inspect roses,                   
evergreens, and marigolds, especially for signs of pale green                   
coloration. Hold a white sheet of paper underneath some foliage                 
and briskly tap it. Tiny, crawling mites will appear on the                     
paper if they are present. Severely infested annual plants may                  
be removed from the garden and destroyed. Others should be                      
chemically treated. If infestation is light, mites may be                       
discouraged by direct needle-like spray from the water hose.                    
                                                                                
* Moss in shady areas of lawns is a common problem brought on                   
by poorly-drained, compacted soil. Opening the soil with an                     
aeration machine allows more air and fertilizer to reach plant                  
roots.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Get a second bloom from faded annuals by cutting them back                    
to half their height; then fertilize with 1/2 cup 5-10-10 per                   
square yard of planted area, and apply a generous layer of                      
mulch.                                                                          
                                                                                
* If your annuals are dead, pull them out and add them to                       
the compost pile. You can replant beds with hardy annuals or                    
biennials, such as pansies, calendulas, globe thistle, or sea                   
pinks.                                                                          
                                                                                
* The soil in container grown vegetables and flowers can dry                    
out very quickly especially on a concrete patio in full sun.                    
Daily watering may be necessary. However, the soil should not be                
soggy or have water standing on top of it. Apply water until it                 
runs out the drainage holes. Clay pots have additional evapora-                 
tion from the sides and watering must be done more often. Small                 
pots dry out quicker than large window boxes. Check your contain-               
ers at least once a day and twice on hot, dry days. Feel the soil               
to see whether or not it is damp.                                               
                                                                                
* Protect plants in containers from very high heat caused by                    
light reflection from pavement. Move them to a cooler spot or                   
shade them during the hottest part of the day. Plants may be                    
moved to a more sheltered location during severe rain or wind                   
storms or as protection from the first fall frosts.                             
                                                                                
* July is a good time to begin looking for native and wild plants               
from which you can collect seed pods to use this fall and                       
winter. Be on the lookout for such material as dock, dried corn                 
tassels, and seed pods from locust, redbud, chaste tree, yellow                 
poplar and cattails.                                                            
                                                                                
* Chinese cabbage, if you are not familiar with it, does not                    
taste at all like regular cabbage. Its pleasant piquant taste                   
and texture are well-suited to salads and to cooking. Lightly                   
steamed and buttered Chinese cabbage is a delicacy. The best                    
planting time for Chinese cabbage is after July 1; plants will                  
mature when days are becoming progressively shorter and cooler.                 
Plants will head rather than shooting up flowers.                               
                                                                                
* July is an excellent month to root cuttings of such houseplants               
as coleus, fuchsia, geranium, gynura, poinsettia, shrimp plant,                 
Swedish ivy, wandering jew, wax plant, and other plants with                    
succulent (non-woody) stems.                                                    
                                                                                
* Continue to make successive plantings of crops like beans,                    
beets, cabbage, and sweet corn, to provide a continuous harvest                 
until fall. A small garden will produce a large quantity of                     
vegetables if replanting is done throughout the summer.                         
                                                                                
* Tall flowers should be staked to prevent damage by wind. Use                  
stakes which are large enough to support the plant but are not                  
too conspicuous. Use soft twine or the easy-twist tape and wire                 
ties.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Water early in the morning so that the least amount of water                  
will be lost to evaporation. This is particularly important                     
if you use overhead sprinklers. Morning watering is preferred                   
to evening watering as this allows an opportunity for the leaves                
to dry completely. Wet leaves at night encourage disease buildup.               
                                                                                
* Sidedress crops like corn and cabbage with 2 pounds of 5-10-5                 
per 50 feet of row about a month after growth starts. Scatter                   
the fertilizer between the rows and scratch into the soil with                  
a rake. If your garden is on an infertile sandy soil, sidedress                 
all of your vegetables to promote vigorous growth.                              
                                                                                
* Implement all the best cultural practices to reduce pest                      
problems but be prepared to spray as needed to control insects                  
and diseases. Some spraying or dusting usually is necessary to                  
insure the production of healthful, high-quality vegetables.                    
                                                                                
* Stop vine crops from taking over your garden or lawn by                       
pinching off the fuzzy growing tips. This also directs the                      
plant's energy into ripening fruit rather than producing more                   
vine.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Keep peas, beans, and berries cool while you pick them by                     
spreading a damp cloth over your harvest basket.                                
                                                                                
* Harvest your vegetables at the peak of maturity. One of the                   
most important advantages of the home garden is the opportunity                 
to have high quality vegetables. Don`t allow them to become                     
too old before you pick them. Harvest summer squash when about                  
6 inches long. Pick sweet corn just before it is to be used. If                 
it is held under warm conditions, the sugar changes to starch                   
and the corn is much poorer in quality.                                         
                                                                                
* Fireblight on apple and pear trees can be identified by looking               
for  blackened twigs and branches. The disease will spread                      
and kill the tree if not controlled. Remove all blighted twigs,                 
cutting below the infected area. Disinfect pruning tools after                  
each cut to prevent spread. Dip blades in a solution of 1 part                  
household bleach to 9 parts water.                                              
                                                                                
* Water your plants several hours before applying pesticides,                   
especially during dry weather. Drought-stressed plants have                     
less water in their plant tissues, and the chemicals that enter                 
the leaves will consequently be more concentrated and may burn                  
the leaves.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Light sprinkling is often harmful, especially on lawns. Proper                
watering means soaking. Soak the soil to the bottom of the                      
roots. Investigate automatic watering devices.                                  
                                                                                
* Now is the time to begin to sow cover crops between rows and                  
in vacated beds. Sow clover, rye and vetch. These, dug under                    
later, will return humus and nitrates to the soil.                              
                                                                                
* If the Sweet peas are heavily mulched, their roots will be kept               
cooler and their season prolonged. Use rough plant litter or                    
grass clippings. A little shade at midday will help to maintain                 
the quality of the flowers and prolong the season.                              
                                                                                
* When growth has stopped and vanished foliage indicates a                      
dormant condition, dig up a good root each of Bleedingheart,                    
Anchusa, Oriental Poppy. Cut these long roots into 1-2 inch                     
pieces and plant them in a mixture of sand and rich loam. Keep                  
the area fairly moist and soon tiny leaves will shoot up. The new               
plants will be ready for permanent quarters in the spring.                      
                                                                                
* Many plants are easily increased by layering. Verbenas, pinks                 
euonymus, pachysandra, ivy, daphne, climbing roses, in fact, all                
the things with reaching runners will probably take root if                     
fastened down on soft earth with a wire and covered with some                   
good soil.                                                                      
                                                                                
* For the largest flowers, the main stems of the dahlias should                 
be kept free of side shoots. In larger varieties, a single stalk                
is the best. Some sort of adequate support must be provided to                  
prevent storm breakage. Water well.                                             
                                                                                
* Cutting flowers is best done with a sharp shears or knife,                    
taking care to avoid injury to the growing plant by having tools                
sharp. A special pair of cutting scissors may be bought which                   
holds the cut-off stem, allowing the removal to be a one handed                 
operation. It is best to carry a bucket of water to the garden,                 
rather than the familiar cutting basket. A slanting cut will                    
expose a larger absorbing surface and will prevent the base of                  
the stem being sealed by resting upon the bottom of the vase.                   
                                                                                
* Ornamental kales and cabbage are among the showiest of all                    
winter plants and as the weather cools, the color intensifies.                  
Transplants of these improbably beautiful winter ornamentals are                
available at garden centers and nurseries now.                                  
                                                                                
* Clean greenhouse walls and under benches. Wash empty pots.                    
Change soil in benches. Spray to eliminate disease next winter.                 
                                                                                
* Sow seeds of hollyhocks, English daisies, foxgloves, violas,                  
Canterbury bells and Sweet Williams for next year`s bloom.                      
                                                                                
* Root holly, azalea, and camellia cuttings in a sand and peat                  
moss mixture, set in a cool, shady location. Ivy and periwinkle                 
can be rooted now to fill in any bare spots in your beds. Don`t                 
allow cuttings to dry out.                                                      
                                                                                
* During the hot dry summer set out a container of water to                     
attract birds to your garden.                                                   
                                                                                
* In response to the trend toward smaller gardens, new climbing                 
roses are being bred. The new climbers grow only 6 to 8 feet                    
tall and need little or no pruning. Look for cultivars such as                  
'Swan Lake' (creamy white), 'Spectra' (gold with red flush) and                 
'Rosarium Uetersen' (deep pink).                                                
                                                                                
* High temperatures accelerate respiration and evaporation from                 
cut flowers. Your refrigerator may be used to temporarily hold                  
floral arrangements if the temperature is no less than 40                       
degrees F, and if no fruit is stored in the cooler. Temperatures                
below 40 degrees F and ethylene gas given off by ripening fruit                 
can injury the petals of many flowers.                                          
                                                                                
* A cool basement will also work for temporary flower storage.                  
Remember to mist arrangements several times a day.                              
                                                                                
* Gerbera flowers (African daisy) can last up to two weeks in a                 
vase if the water is kept clean. Since gerbera stems are hairy                  
and easily dirty the water, do not immerse them more than a few                 
inches. Change the water every two days.                                        
                                                                                
* Divide and transplant bearded iris using the vigorous ends                    
of the rhizomes. Discard the old center portion. Cut the leaves                 
back to about 8" long. Do not worry about wounding the roots;                   
wounding actually encourages flowering.                                         
                                                                                
* In dry times, trees may shed up to 10% of their leaves to                     
reduce water loses through transpiration. This leaf loss causes                 
little or no harm.                                                              
                                                                                
* Inner leaves and twigs of trees normally drop from lack of                    
sunlight, but clusters of leaves attached to short twigs may                    
result from insect or squirrel activity. Girdling insects make                  
shallow, encircling depressions, while twigs broken by squirrels                
have diagonally several ends.                                                   
                                                                                
* Ripening grape clusters may be covered with brown paper or                    
polyethylene bags, or nylon netting to reduce bird damage. If                   
bags are used, make ventilation holes in the bottom of the bags.                
                                                                                
* Blueberry bushes also need to be covered with plastic netting                 
or fine cloth (tobacco cloth) to control birds. When harvesting                 
blueberries, remember to allow berries to remain on the plants                  
for 3-5 days after they turn blue. Waiting several days allows                  
berries to reach their maximum sugar content.                                   
                                                                                
* Gardeners in the mountainous regions of Virginia start planting               
fall vegetables this month. Request publication 426-334 Fall                    
Vegetable Gardening from your extension agent or The Virginia                   
Gardener for guidelines on planning and planting fall crops.                    
                                                                                
* In summer, dry soil may make working the soil difficult and                   
inhibit seed germination. Plant your fall vegetables when the                   
soil is moist after a rain, or water the area thoroughly the day                
before you plant. Seeds may be planted in a shallow trench to                   
conserve moisture. Cover the seeds about twice as deeply as you                 
do in the spring. Early maturing varieties are best for late                    
plantings.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Continue attracting insect eating birds to the garden area by                 
providing them a fresh water source.                                            
                                                                                
* Bromeliads are being promoted as new indoor plants. They are                  
ideal in the home because they tolerate low light conditions.                   
                                                                                
* Check the soil moisture of container grown vegetables and                     
flowers daily. As the temperature rises, some plants may need                   
water twice daily.                                                              
                                                                                
* Petunias vary their growth habit according to temperature and                 
daylength. At temperature of 62 degrees F and below, petunias                   
will be branched, bushy, compact and multiflowered. From 63 to                  
75 degrees, daylength affects their growth habit. If plants                     
receive less than 12 hours of sunlight at these temperatures,                   
petunias will be single stemmed and have only a single flower.                  
Over 75 degrees F, daylength has no effect and plants will always               
be tall, leggy and bear few flowers.                                            
                                                                                
* To encourage petunias to branch, pinch them at planting time                  
and again in mid-July. During July, cut them off about 3" to 4"                 
above ground level. Weed, fertilize and clean up around them. The               
next pinching should take place in mid-August, and the last,                    
during early September.                                                         
Monthly Notes June 1986                                                         
                                                                                
* Plants may wilt from a lack of oxygen rather than a lack                      
of water. When the soil is compacted, the plant's tender feeder                 
roots and root hairs suffocate. The problem is compounded when                  
the well-meaning gardener assumes that the wilting is a sign of                 
water stress and immediately irrigates. Well-aerated soil,                      
enriched with organic matter, allows both air and water to                      
circulate freely about the root system for a vigorous plant.                    
                                                                                
* For very efficient, steady feeding of vegetables sink a                       
large can or bucket with many holes in its sides into the soil                  
and fill it about 2/3 full of rotted manure or compost; rain                    
or occasional watering will keep a rich supply of nutrients                     
seeping out to feed plants in a circle several feet wide.                       
                                                                                
* Divide spring and early summer flowering perennials. Instead                  
of severing the clump in half, try jiggling the roots apart                     
with two, sharp, spading forks. This takes more time, but consid-               
erably less root area is lost during division.                                  
                                                                                
* Stop cutting asparagus in mid or late June when the spears                    
become thin. Allow the tops to grow during the summer to store                  
food in the roots for the crop next spring.                                     
                                                                                
* As soon as the last cutting of asparagus is made, remove all                  
the weeds from the bed and fertilize with a 10-10-10 formula at                 
the rate of 3 pounds per 50 foot row.                                           
                                                                                
* To prevent overwatering of plants in containers without drain                 
holes, stick two or three plastic straws vertically down into the               
layer of gravel or rocks at the bottom of the pot before plant-                 
ing. Then cut them off just above the soil surface after plant-                 
ing. This will allow evaporation of excess moisture in the                      
drainage layer.                                                                 
                                                                                
* If in clay pots, plunge house plant pots to the rim in a                      
partially shaded flower bed or border for the summer. If in                     
glazed or plastic containers, remove the pot.                                   
                                                                                
* Energy Reporter - The Citizens' Newsletter of the Federal                     
Energy Administration says that, "a tall evergreen hedge north                  
of your home can cut heating bills by 34% in windswept regions                  
or by 10% in sheltered areas." As costs go up, this figure must                 
increase.                                                                       
                                                                                
* To get faster growth from your trees and shrubs, mulch is                     
better than grass or ground covers. In three experiments across                 
the country, researchers have shown that a variety of trees and                 
shrubs including dogwood, forsythia, Burford holly, Japanese                    
black pine and cottonwood had growth reduced significantly by                   
both ground covers and grasses.                                                 
                                                                                
* According to tests conducted by VA Tech Department of Human                   
Nutrition and Foods, microwave-blanched vegetables have less                    
flavor and poorer color and texture than vegetables blanched                    
with hot water or steam.                                                        
                                                                                
* Before pouring gasoline into the fuel tank of your lawn mower,                
garden tillers or other equipment, be sure to turn off engine                   
and allow to cool 5 minutes.                                                    
                                                                                
* Do not allow children to ride or drive riding lawn mowers. They               
are more dangerous than they appear. Always disengage the mower                 
blades and set the brake before getting off for any reason.                     
                                                                                
* Remove old flower heads from bedding plants to prolong the                    
period of bloom.                                                                
                                                                                
* Remove foliage from spring bulbs after it turns yellow and                    
begins to dry. Set out bedding plants in space previously                       
occupied by foliage, using care not to damage bulbs.                            
                                                                                
* Lacebugs feed on azaleas, pyrcantha and other woody plants                    
causing a gray, blanched or stippled appearance on the upper                    
surface of the leaves.                                                          
                                                                                
* Watch for and control blackspot and powdery mildew on rose                    
foliage.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Continue plantings of warm season crops such as beans, squash                 
and tomatoes. Toward the end of the month, start seeds of Chinese               
cabbage and cauliflower for fall harvest.                                       
                                                                                
* Yellow flowered perennials which abound this month include: St.               
John's Wort (Hypericum); Evening Primrose (Oenothera); yellow                   
loostrife (Lysimachia punctattta).                                              
                                                                                
* For hanging baskets in a cool shady location, select trailing                 
tuberous begonias, fuchsias, ferns, English ivy, impatiens or                   
fiberous rooted begonias in combination with trailing plants.                   
                                                                                
* When trimming grass with a power tool using rapidly spinning                  
monofilament line, be careful around young trees and shrubs.                    
Tender bark can easily be damaged, opening the tree to insect and               
disease problems.                                                               
                                                                                
* House plants may be kept in good condition for several weeks                  
while one is on vacation by using clear plastic bags as miniature               
greenhouses. Simply soak the pot thoroughly, allow to drain, then               
place the potted plant into a plastic bag. Tie the opening                      
tightly. By inserting two or more sticks in the soil before the                 
bag is put on, one may support the plastic-like tent and prevent                
it from resting on the plants. Plants, such as African violets,                 
that are apt to develop mildew should have a few air holes for                  
air circulation.                                                                
                                                                                
* When going on vacation, arrange for someone to mow your lawn                  
and harvest your garden.                                                        
                                                                                
* Spring flowering shrubs such as deutzia, weigela, vibrunum                    
and forsythia, should be pruned as soon as they complete bloom.                 
                                                                                
* Additional pruning may be required this month on fast-growing,                
narrow, leaf evergreens such as junipers and yews as well as                    
plants such as privet to maintain a desirable shape during the                  
growing season.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Many garden plants will appreciate a sidedressing of 5-10-10                  
at the rate of 1 lbs per 100 ft of row applied 4 to 6 weeks                     
after plants are established. Avoid sidedressing tomatoes,                      
eggplants and peppers until they have set their first fruit.                    
                                                                                
* Keep a close eye on the quality of your spring crops. Hot                     
weather causes lettuce to bolt and become bitter. Plant a warm                  
season crop as soon as the spring vegetables are removed.                       
                                                                                
* Drying grass clippings from your lawn before using them as                    
mulch keeps them from packing down, fermenting and smelling. If                 
you spray your lawn with weed killers, compost the clippings                    
before using them in the garden.                                                
                                                                                
* Rock gardens can be an interesting and challenging hobby for                  
the gardener.  A few perennials species that can be used success-               
fully are: Ajuga, Thrift, Sedum, Creeping Phlox, and Violas.                    
These can be planted in either spring or early fall, although                   
spring planting requires more attention to regular watering.                    
                                                                                
* Mid-to-late June is an excellent time to take softwood cuttings               
of shrubs to start new plants.  Some examples are spirea,                       
boxwood, and azalea.                                                            
                                                                                
* When you buy nursery stock that is container grown, check the                 
root ball and make sure its not bound too tightly.  As big mass                 
of circling roots will stay that way, even after it is in the                   
ground.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Large mesh wire has many uses in the garden: for a tomato                     
cage, as a compost bin, to hold down black plastic, to hold                     
mulches in place, or to use as a half-cylinder with plastic over                
it as a small greenhouse.                                                       
                                                                                
* If you don't have much landscaping space, consider using some                 
of the many available dwarf varieties.  These are plants that                   
have slow growth and stay small, so there is little pruning                     
maintenance.  There are numerous evergreens and flowering trees                 
and shrubs to choose from.                                                      
                                                                                
* When selecting a window box, it is best to use a wooden box.                  
Metal ones are more likely to overheat if sitting in the hot                    
summer sun.  Also the wooden boxes allow for drainage, whereas                  
the metal ones often do not. The color of the box also should be                
considered:  dark ones get warmer than light-colored boxes.                     
                                                                                
* Watch for insects now and keep to spray schedule on those                     
plants which need it throughout the summer.                                     
                                                                                
* Plant tropical water-lilies early in summer.                                  
                                                                                
* Rambling and climbing roses should be pruned immediately                      
after blooming.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Weed cultivation is important for a number of reasons:  it                    
conserves moisture, conserves nutrients in the soil, and helps                  
prevent the spread of disease and insects.                                      
                                                                                
* For hot summer months, mulch can be especially beneficial for                 
conserving water.  For the vegetable garden, leaves are a good                  
mulch material.  For ornamentals, pine needles or bark do the                   
best job.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Spread organic mulch in the garden once the soil has warmed and               
seedlings are about six inches tall.                                            
                                                                                
* Take care that newly planted materials receive a thorough                     
soaking each week.  Soak, do not sprinkle.  Mulch to conserve the               
moisture.  It is helpful to make a well for the water to collect                
in when mulching around trees.                                                  
                                                                                
* A sundial should be set on June 15th.  Place it so that the                   
shadow falls on 12:00 o'clock at exactly noon on this date.                     
                                                                                
* After your vegetable garden is well established, it is best to                
water it thoroughly once a week rather than a light watering                    
everyday.  That way, a deeper root system is encouraged which                   
will later help the plants tolerate dry weather.  Generally, an                 
application of one inch of water to the surface will wet soil to                
six or eight inches deep.                                                       
                                                                                
* A method of composting for limited space is to put all of the                 
compost materials (leaves, soil, weeds, kitchen garbage, and                    
manure) in a large polyethylene bag, moisten thoroughly, tie the                
top tightly and leave it out in the sun.  Kick the bag around                   
occasionally and let in fresh air every 2 weeks.  Before long you               
will have a convenient bag of well-rotten compost.                              
                                                                                
* Birds will generally not be scared away by scarecrows.  Try                   
instead tying pieces of glass, colored cloth, or tin to loose                   
strings so the wind can blow them and slash them together.                      
Random motion is the key to alarming the birds away from the                    
garden.                                                                         
                                                                                
* If you plant your Easter lily outdoors, it may flower again in                
late August.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Many of the weeds which occur in lawns are indicator plants                   
which signal poor growing conditions for turf grass.  Ground ivy,               
chickweed and violets often sprout up in places too shady for                   
most turf grasses. Sorrel, daisies and dock indicate a change to                
an acidic condition due to poor aeration and drainage, and lack                 
of humus.  Wild mustard, morning glories and quack grass warn of                
crusty soil and possible hard pan development.  The presence of                 
moss tells of soil compaction, poor drainage or fertility, or                   
excessive shade.  Before you begin weed control, consider                       
correcting the factors favorable to the weeds.                                  
                                                                                
* Lawn clippings return valuable nutrients especially nitrogen to               
turf grass.  Rake up grass clippings only when the grass has                    
grown unusually tall between mowings.                                           
                                                                                
* June is a great time to clean out the greenhouse.  Discard dead               
or diseased plants and old potting soil.  Good sanitation is                    
necessary to control greenhouse pests.                                          
                                                                                
* Remove crusted mineral salts from clay pots by soaking pots in                
water for a few days.  Start with hot water and renew the hot                   
bath several times. Scrub off heavy salt buildup with steel wool                
and dish detergent. Sterilize pots before reuse by soaking them                 
for ten minutes in a solution of 9 parts water to 1 part bleach.                
To reduce salt buildup on clay pots, wipe them weekly with a                    
cloth soaked in white vinegar.                                                  
                                                                                
* Pinch off faded magnolia flowers to stimulate new growth and                  
thicken the crown.                                                              
                                                                                
* The best time to harvest most herbs is just before flowering,                 
when their leaves contain the maximum essential oils.  Cut herbs                
early on a sunny day.                                                           
                                                                                
* Strawberries picked early in the day keep best.  Do not wash or               
stem berries until ready to use.  Store berries in covered                      
containers in the refrigerator.                                                 
                                                                                
* Only the uppermost ear or two develops to maturity in sweet                   
corn.  Any undeveloped lower ears can be picked just after the                  
silk appears and used in stir-fry vegetables, salads, or pickled.               
                                                                                
* Broken branches and suckers of tomato plants will often root if               
stuck into loose, moist soil.                                                   
                                                                                
* A new edible green called 'Tyfon' has been developed by                       
crossing turnips with Chinese cabbage.  Tyfon is frost tolerant,                
quick growing and capable of generating a second cutting in 3-4                 
weeks.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Identify garden pests before you attempt to control them.  If                 
you decide to use a chemical control, read the label carefully to               
be sure the chemical is compatible with the plant.  Make sure you               
apply the proper amount at the proper time.  Consult with your                  
local extension agent if you have questions about pesticides.                   
                                                                                
* Protect yourself, your family, and your pets from contact with                
pesticides.  Wear protective clothing and spray only on calm                    
days.  Wash your hands and clothing thoroughly after using garden               
chemicals.                                                                      
                                                                                
* To protect the bees which pollinate many of our crop plants,                  
spray in the evening after bees have returned to their hives.                   
                                                                                
* Heavy rains encourage slug problems.                                          
                                                                                
* Japanese beetle traps are most effective in neighborhoods where               
most residents use them.  An isolated trap or two can actually                  
draw the insects to your yard.  Traps should be placed at least                 
25' from fruit trees and roses to lure the pests away from                      
treasured plants.                                                               
                                                                                
* The same effect is true with the use of milky spore (Bacillus                 
popilliae). If your neighbors also apply the soil treatment                     
it will be most effective.  Otherwise Japanese beetle larvae                    
hatching in other yards will reinfest your property.                            
                                                                                
* Complaints and inquiries about questionable gardening advertis-               
ements can be sent to The Garden Writers Association of America                 
(GWAA) Horticultural Advertising Ethics Committee.  Mr. Jack                    
Siebenthaler, Chairman of the Ethics Committee, can be contacted                
at P.O. Box 6524, Clearwater, FL  33518.                                        
May Notes                                                                       
                                                                                
* When you visit gardens and arboreta, take your camera and                     
note pad with you. Now is the time to plan for changes you will                 
make in your landscape to add spring glory.                                     
                                                                                
* Raised beds warm up faster in the spring, provide good drainag-               
e, help protect soil structure, and may be built at a height for                
working without bending. But they dry out faster so don't forget                
to water.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Don't be surprised if variegated hosta has green leaves when                  
grown in the sun. The best variegated color pattern is secured                  
on plants in a semi-shady location.                                             
                                                                                
* Grass clippings can be used as a mulch in flower beds and                     
vegetable gardens if allowed to dry well before use. Fresh, damp                
grass clippings will mat and may attract pests. Never use                       
clippings from a lawn that has been treated with a herbicide.                   
                                                                                
* Put your tools away at the end of the day; clean them and                     
hang them up, if possible. Keep the cutting edge sharp for easier               
use.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Don't spray on a windy day. Not only is pesticide wasted,                     
it may endanger other crops or you.                                             
                                                                                
* Recycle your kitchen scraps in a compost trench to avoid                      
attracting birds or animals to your compost pile. Dig the trench                
between garden rows, covering each addition with garden soil. The               
material will enrich your soil as it breaks down.                               
                                                                                
* Four to five layers of newspaper will serve as an effective                   
mulch in the garden. Cover with sawdust or soil to reduce the                   
white glare and prevent it from blowing away.                                   
                                                                                
* Frequent picking of cucumbers, summer squash, beans, peas,                    
lettuce, and greens while they are small and tender will improve                
the quality of the produce and increase the yield of each plant.                
                                                                                
* Trellis and stake downwind from the prevailing winds so plants                
will lean against the supports when the wind is blowing.                        
                                                                                
* Drive stakes when you plant tomatoes or cucumbers. If you                     
try to install stakes later, you may damage the plant roots. Tie                
the plants with a soft material such as stockings or worn bed                   
sheets which will not cut into the stems.                                       
                                                                                
* Sprinkle seeds evenly by putting them in a small shaker. A                    
set of caps for seed sprouting jars will let you choose one                     
with appropriate-sized holes for the seeds you use. The problem                 
of sowing fine seed too thickly can be reduced by mixing them                   
with sand.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Stay out of the garden when foilage is wet. Walking through                   
a wet garden spreads disease from one plant to another.                         
                                                                                
* Moles feed on white grubs and in their feeding ruin the                       
lawn. Moles can be eliminated by eliminating the grubs. Consult                 
your extension service for current recommendations.                             
                                                                                
* Newly set plants should be protected from cutworms with                       
collars.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Flea beetles can severely damage newly set plants. Protect                    
plants with carbaryl as soon as these small shiny, black, hopping               
insects are noted.                                                              
                                                                                
* Move your house plants outdoors when the night temperatures                   
stay above 60 degrees. Avoid sun burning the foliage by moving                  
the plants gradually from the relative darkness of the house                    
to their summer location. Start by putting them in a well-shaded                
location and progressing to increasingly lighted areas.                         
                                                                                
* After planting seed from this year's packets, store leftovers                 
in a tightly sealed jar in the refrigerator. Add a dessicant                    
such as a layer of tissues in which 2 tablespoons of powdered                   
milk have been wrapped to absorb excess moisture from the air.                  
                                                                                
* A fern that is exceptionally tolerant of the dry air of the                   
home is the mother fern (Asplenium bulbiferum) so-called because                
it produces plantlets on its fronds. It does well at 30% humidit-               
y. For homes with 50% humidity, button ferns (Pellaea rotundi-                  
folia) are an excellent choice.                                                 
                                                                                
* Amaranth is an excellent substitute for cooked spinach accordi-               
ng to USDA tests. It does best in midsummer heat and harvestable                
leaves are produced in just 30 days from sowing.                                
                                                                                
* When planting shrubs on a steep slope, be sure to mulch or                    
use an erosion control netting if grasses or ground covers are                  
not already present. Digging planting holes and watering the                    
new plants will result in erosion problems on bare soil.                        
                                                                                
* Don't overwater your lawn this summer. Too much water leaches                 
out nitrogen, encourages a number of weeds and brings on disease                
problems.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Gladiola bulbs may be planted now.                                            
                                                                                
* Set out marigolds, petunias, ageratums and fiberous begonias.                 
All are good border plants.                                                     
                                                                                
* Prune forsythia, lilacs and other spring flowering shrubs                     
immediately after bloom.                                                        
                                                                                
* Deep transplanting is good for tomatoes. Tomato plants can be                 
set so deep in the ground that only a little tuft of leaves shows               
above the surface, after removing all leaves that would be                      
under the soil. New roots will sprout along the stem. Don't try                 
deep transplanting with other vegetables or flowers.                            
                                                                                
* When planting large-seeded lima or butter bean seed in heavy                  
soils, it may help germination to plant the seed on edge, facili-               
tating the emergence of the large cotyledons or seed leaves. On                 
light sandy soil, this is of dubious value because such soil                    
offers little resistance to sprouts.                                            
                                                                                
* When thinning beans, watch for "Snake Heads", seedlings which                 
have lost one or both of their cotyledons and produce poor weak                 
sprouts and "Bald Heads", seedlings which have the growth point                 
damaged so severely that they can't develop. Both types of                      
seedlings will be weak and delayed in growth and should be                      
removed.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Plant ground cover under shade trees that don't allow enough                  
sunlight to sustain grass. Periwinkle, English ivy, and liriope                 
are a few ground cover plants that grow well in shade.                          
                                                                                
* Consider planting some ornamental gourds in the garden this                   
year. After harvest in the fall, wash and dry thoroughly and                    
paint with clear shellac. Place in a basket or bowl and you'll                  
have an attractive centerpiece for Thanksgiving.                                
                                                                                
* Poison ivy leaves vary in shape and grow in threes. It is                     
dangerous all year round as you can get an irritation from the                  
leaves, roots, berries, and even smoke from burning the vines.                  
Learn to know the leaves, so you may guard against it. If you                   
think you may have come in contact with it, wash immediately with               
soap and water and remove any clothes that may have the oil on                  
them. Prevention is the best medicine for this ailment.                         
                                                                                
* Water newly planted trees and shrubs unless there is considera-               
ble rainfall. Mulch to conserve moisture and control weeds.                     
                                                                                
* Pinch back annuals which need to be trained for bushiness when                
4 to 6 inches high. Some of these are zinnias, petunias and                     
salvia.                                                                         
                                                                                
* When you remodel the kitchen, save a section of the old cabinet               
and use for a potting bench. It provides a comfortable working                  
height and storage below for pots, media, tools, etc.                           
                                                                                
* Set petunia plants among the fading tulips to offset the                      
unsightly wilting leaves. You can tie leaves in gentle knots to                 
hide them, but don't cut the tulip leaves until they have dried                 
completely.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Introducing your children to gardening can be a rewarding                     
experience for the entire family. Give them a small plot of                     
their own with full sun, good soil and drainage. Geraniums and                  
begonias from pots are easy for little hands to handle and                      
marigolds, radishes, and favorite vegetables can be added. It's                 
a pleasant and productive way to spend time together.                           
                                                                                
* 35 of the 39 snakes found in Virginia are beneficial to the                   
farmer and gardener. They eat insects and rodents. Of particul-                 
ar value is the large black rat snake, which consumes mice, rats,               
and other small mammals.                                                        
                                                                                
* Avoid using peat moss as a mulch. It tends to form a tight mat,               
virtually impermeable to light rain once it becomes dry. It is                  
best mixed in with soil as a conditioner.                                       
                                                                                
* Impatiens is the most satisfactory annual for use in shade.                   
Begonia, coleus, ageratum, salvia, and vinca prefer light shade                 
(5 to 6 hours of sunlight).                                                     
                                                                                
* Remember, insecticides such as Malathion cannot be used as                    
preventatives, but are only effective if they come in contact                   
with the insect. Use all pesticides with caution. Always read and               
follow the directions on the label.                                             
                                                                                
* Houseplants in containers without drainage holes are poor                     
candidates for outside. A good rainstorm may drown and rot them.                
All plants perform better in containers with drainage holes.                    
                                                                                
* Vacation hint:  Sink houseplants, pots and all, in the soil in                
a shady area of the garden. Mulch to reduce the need for frequent               
watering.                                                                       
                                                                                
* If you are building a home on a wooded lot, save young,                       
vigorous trees. They will adapt to changes in their environment                 
better than older trees. Trees that once grew in shade and are                  
suddenly exposed to increased sunlight, wider temperature                       
fluctuations and drying winds may not survive.                                  
                                                                                
* Red and silver maples, willows, poplars and elms often clog                   
septic lines. Plant these species well away from waterlines and                 
sewers.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Lace bugs, tiny fly-like insects with lacy wings, weaken                      
rhododendrons, azaleas and mountain laurel by sucking out                       
cellular fluids. Since these insects prefer hot, dry conditions,                
plants grown in semishade are less susceptible.                                 
                                                                                
* Large plate glass windows are apparently invisible to birds.                  
Hang small mobile twists of reflective ribbon or hanging baskets                
in front of the glass to prevent crashes.                                       
                                                                                
* Most evergreens have many roots near the soil surface. Avoid                  
deep cultivation that might wound roots.                                        
                                                                                
* If an old tree shows signs of advanced rotting, remove it                     
before it becomes a safety hazard.                                              
                                                                                
* Algae and lichens are primitive plants which grow nearly                      
anywhere there is adequate moisture. Although they are often                    
found growing on tree trunks, algae and lichens generally do not                
harm trees; often they indicate stressful conditions such as soil               
compaction, poor drainage or insufficient fertilizer.                           
                                                                                
* Divide indoor plants when new growth starts in spring. Root                   
cuttings during spring and summer when the plant is actively                    
growing.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Watering with soaker hoses or drip irrigation will deter the                  
spread of black spot in roses.                                                  
                                                                                
* Where earwigs and sowbugs are a problem, try trapping them with               
rolled up newspapers which have been moistened with water. The                  
insects will hide in the papers by day. Gather up the traps and                 
dispose of them frequently.                                                     
                                                                                
* To better evaluate your gardening successes, keep weather                     
records along with garden records. The most important items to                  
report are daily minimum and maximum temperatures, precipitation                
and cloud cover, and frost occurrences.                                         
                                                                                
* A rain gauge can be constructed from a large can and a plastic                
straw. Mark the straw in inches and fractions. After removing the               
lid from the can, set it out to collect rainfall. After a                       
rain, insert the straw to the bottom of the can and put your                    
finger over the opening. Withdraw the straw and hold it up to the               
light to read the amount of rainfall.                                           
                                                                                
* In clay soils, improve drainage for trees by planting on the                  
"high side."  Build up the area around the rootball with good                   
draining soil. Alternately lay draintile from the bottom of the                 
planting hole to a ditch or gravel drain constructed below the                  
planting hole.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Thin peaches four to six inches apart for large, high quality                 
fruit.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Lawns maintained at the correct height resist disease and weed                
infestation. Kentucky blueglass and tall fescue should be kept                  
between 2-3" in height. Mow frequently removing one third of the                
blade at each cutting.                                                          
                                                                                
* Creeping red fescue may be used for turf in shady, drought                    
prone areas. Keep this grass at 2 - 2 1/2 inches in height.                     
                                                                                
* Plan vegetable gardens with nutrition in mind. Compare the                    
nutritional values of your crops with the amount of space                       
allotted them. For example, your family will get more vitamins                  
and minerals from a block of spinach than from an equal amount of               
lettuce.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Lettuce, tomatoes, beans and peas are self-pollinating annual                 
vegetables from which seed can be easily saved. Make sure the                   
plants are open-pollinated (not hybrids) or next year's plants                  
will not likely grow like the parent plants. Write the Virginia                 
Gardener or your extension agent to request publication 426-316                 
for seed saving tips.                                                           
                                                                                
* Toads eat cutworms and other insect pests. Give them a home in                
your garden by placing inverted clay flower pots in shady spots.                
Make sure to chip out a piece of the pot rim to give the toads an               
entrance to their home.                                                         
April Notes                                                                     
                                                                                
* Remove sticks, rocks and other debris from your lawn to prevent               
damaging your lawnmower or injuring yourself when mowing. Check                 
your lawnmower and other lawn-care equipment in preparation                     
for the coming season.                                                          
                                                                                
* Start herb seeds indoors in moist medium. Place in bright,                    
indirect light and move to a sunny window when germination                      
begins. When the seedlings are 2-3" tall, transplant into peat                  
pots for the garden or into clay pots for use on your terrace                   
or balcony. Some herbs early grown from seed include chives,                    
sage, sweet marjoram, basil, summery savory, dill and parsley.                  
                                                                                
* To extend the blooming period of gladiolus, plant early, middle               
and late-season selections each week until the middle of June.                  
Choose a sunny location and plant the corms 4-6" deep and 6-8"                  
apart.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Put a birdhouse in the garden to attract insect-eating friends.               
                                                                                
* Measure the rainfall with a rain gauge posted near the garden                 
so you can tell when to water. You can buy one or make one by                   
sinking a can partway into the ground and marking off its                       
interior in inches. The garden needs about one inch of rain per                 
week from April to September.                                                   
                                                                                
* Scatter annual poppy seeds in flower borders. The fine seeds                  
need no covering. The plants grow rapidly and provide colorful                  
flowers in early summer.                                                        
                                                                                
* Make a plot layout of your flower borders. This is a very                     
essential but easily neglected chore. With an accurate plot                     
plan, you will know where to locate the spring flowering bulbs                  
you plant next fall. Also, it will make your spring and summer                  
gardening easier. You will be able to correctly identify the                    
plants in your border and plan for continuous blooming by setting               
young annuals between bulbs and early flowering perennials after                
their blooms have faded.                                                        
                                                                                
* Before planting bare-root shrubs and trees, soak the roots in                 
water overnight.                                                                
                                                                                
* Interior latex type paint may be used on the trunks of newly                  
planted trees to prevent sunburn. This material is easy to apply                
and will gradually weather away and allow the bark to become                    
resistant to exposure to the sun.                                               
                                                                                
* If you are interested in exchanging seeds and cuttings of                     
less available crops, you may wish to contact one of those organ-               
izations interested in preserving the variety and quality of                    
our food crops. The Seed Savers Exchange (Kent Whealy, R.R. 2,                  
Princeton, MO 64673) which provides for exchange of vegetable                   
seed also maintains an Heirloom Seed Bank, and a Growers Network                
to multiply special collections of vegetables. The North American               
Fruit Explorers (Ray Walker, Box 711, St. Louis, MO 63188)                      
has a scion exchange and fruit testing programs.                                
                                                                                
* Aphids on your roses will cause deformed, inferior flowers. If                
aphids are noticed, contact your extension agent for an approved                
insecticide that you can spray.                                                 
                                                                                
* In the Piedmont and Mountain regions, this is the time to set                 
out cool-weather vegetables such as broccoli, brussel sprouts,                  
cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, and onions. When the danger of                   
frost has passed, transplant tomatoes, peppers and eggplant.                    
                                                                                
* Some shrubs grow best on acid soils with a pH of about 5.0.                   
These include andromeda, azalea, blueberry, camellia, mountain                  
laurel, and rhododendron. At a higher pH value these shrubs may                 
become yellow and make very poor growth.                                        
                                                                                
* Many herbs are excellent for natural appearing rock gardens                   
or formal plantings with brick pathways. These herbs do well                    
in sandy soil and are partial to full sun locations: creeping                   
thyme, sage, santolina and garlic.                                              
                                                                                
* Blue amaryllis (Hippeastrum procerum) and green amaryllis                     
(H. calyptrata) present a rewarding challenge to patient gar-                   
deners. Seeds are available from selected mail order seed                       
companies and bloom in about 5 years.                                           
                                                                                
* For a handsome addition to your herb collection, try lovage                   
(Levisticum officinale) a hardy perennial with a sharp but sweet                
celery flavor. Leaves can be used sparingly in soups and salads;                
stems can be blanched or eaten raw; and seeds can be added to                   
candies, bread, and cakes.                                                      
                                                                                
* Tree seedlings can have a strong start in quart or half-gallon                
milk cartons. Remove top and bottom and stand on a frame covered                
with 1/4" mesh hardware. Fill with a mixture of peat moss,                      
perlite and vermiculite. As the tap root grows through the bottom               
of the milk carton tube and mesh, it is "air pruned" forcing the                
development of fibrous side roots.                                              
                                                                                
* The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station reports that                  
larger plants with more flowers can be grown in a soil mix                      
consisting of 1 part sphagnum moss, 1 part peat moss, 2 parts                   
perlite, and 2 parts compost than with 4 other commonly used                    
mixes. Sphagnum moss is reported to increase aeration and                       
water-holding capacity and to suppress soil-borne diseases.                     
                                                                                
* For faster growth of vegetables in containers, use black                      
plastic pots to warm the soil---81 degrees on sunny days compared               
to 72 degrees for the same mixes in clay or white plastic pots.                 
                                                                                
* In a sunny location with poor soil, plant nasturtiums for                     
a colorful show. They require warm soil to sprout and start                     
blooming in about 50 days. Too much water and fertilizer produces               
excess leaves and few flowers.                                                  
                                                                                
* For easier watering of tomatoes and other large vegetables,                   
plant a gallon can with holes punched in the bottom nearby.                     
Watering through the can keeps water off the top of the ground                  
and puts it near the roots where it's needed.                                   
                                                                                
* Plant clematis in locations which receive at least 6 hours                    
of sunshine a day. Use organic mulch or ground cover to shade                   
roots and keep them cool. Plant in rich, well-drained loam.                     
                                                                                
* Plant dahlia tubers as soon as danger of frost is passed. Stake               
at the time of planting to avoid injury to tubers.                              
                                                                                
* Many popular perennials can be divided now including: phlox,                  
fall asters, shasta daisies, baby's breath and liriope. Set                     
up a plant exchange with friends and neighbors to share the                     
excess.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Prune spring blooming shrubs such as forsythia, weigelia and                  
early spirea after they have completed flowering.                               
                                                                                
* Thin young fruits of apples, pears, and peaches to insure                     
larger, healthier fruit. Thin within 25 days of the peak bloom,                 
leaving 4 to 6 inches between fruit.                                            
                                                                                
* Cut flower stalks back to the ground on daffodils, hyacinths,                 
and other spring flowering bulbs as the flowers fade. DO NOT                    
cut the foliage until it dies naturally.                                        
                                                                                
* Don't be too anxious to move your houseplants outdoors. Even                  
a good chill can knock the leaves off of tender plants.                         
                                                                                
* For hot weather color, select one of the following: Gloriosa                  
Daisy, Madagascar Periwinkle, Ornamental Peppers, Mexican Zinnia,               
Amaranthus `Joseph's Coat'. Plant after all danger of frost                     
is past and plan for color until winter arrives.                                
                                                                                
* A popular gift plant at Easter, the Easter lily needs bright,                 
indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist. It                  
can be planted in a sunny spot in the garden after danger of                    
frost is over, where it will bloom next year.                                   
                                                                                
* Do not cut the leaves of spring flowering bulbs, but let them                 
brown naturally, then cut off. The leaves are necessary to                      
produce strong bulbs capable of reflowering.                                    
                                                                                
* Don't overpot African violets. They bloom better in small pots.               
                                                                                
* If wisteria does not bloom, it needs careful pruning to correct               
the condition. Prune long, straggling canes and all dead wood.                  
Root pruning sometimes helps, too.                                              
                                                                                
* Did you know that you can get a free soil test?  Mailing                      
cartons and instructions are available at your extension office.                
                                                                                
* Control insect pests before they become unmanageable. Spray or                
dust tent caterpillars while they are still small.                              
                                                                                
* The lawn mower blade should always be sharp so as not to tear                 
the grass. If you sharpen the blade at home, be sure to balance                 
it too. Place the center hole of the blade on a screwdriver                     
handle held upright in the vise. Check to see if it balances. If                
not, sharpen the heavier side some more until the blade balances                
on the handle.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Once the snow melts and the surface is dry, established                       
but uneven lawns will benefit from being rolled. Depressed areas                
may be filled with sifted topsoil. Fill in the sparser areas by                 
sowing new seed.                                                                
                                                                                
* Raspberry canes can be pruned and thinned now. Removal of                     
excessive canes at ground level will improve air circulation and                
light penetration for heavier fruiting. All dead tips of the                    
canes should be cut off.                                                        
                                                                                
* Do not fertilize azaleas and camellias until they have finished               
blooming. They should be pruned, if necessary, after blooming                   
also.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Plant cold frame plants outdoors now.                                         
                                                                                
* April is a good time to clean up plants and flower beds. Pick                 
out dead leaves and twigs and prune dead limbs.                                 
                                                                                
* Grape vines with excessive vegetative growth generally have                   
less high quality fruit. In early spring, prune out the canes                   
with the fewest buds to allow light, moisture and air circulation               
within the plant to improve the quality and quantity of the                     
fruit.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Plant strawberries if you haven't already. Place straw around                 
established plants as a mulch, after weeding and fertilizing the                
bed.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Do not mow the lawn until it has grown at least 2 inches. The                 
roots are being renewed in the spring and grass needs vigorous                  
top growth initially.                                                           
                                                                                
* Label the clumps of daffodils that are too crowded, as over-                  
crowding inhibits blooming. Dig up and separate in July.                        
                                                                                
* The best time to plant shrubs and trees is on a windless,                     
cloudy day.                                                                     
                                                                                
* When pruning forsythia do not cut ends of the twigs. It is best               
to thin out the old branches as close to the ground as possible.                
This should be done immediately after blooming.                                 
                                                                                
* Fill the bare spots in the flower bed with moss roses (Portula-               
ca) and feed regularly to encourage blooms into the summer.                     
                                                                                
* When planning your vegetable garden, consider that vegetables                 
need at least 6 to 10 hours of sunlight in order to develop                     
properly. Most vegetables, such as tomatoes, squash, eggplant,                  
and peppers need full sun.                                                      
                                                                                
* When weather is wet or cold, allow about twice the germination                
time listed on the seed packet. If there is no sign of growth                   
after this time, dig around a little to check for sprouted seeds.               
If you find no signs of life, the seed has probably rotted and                  
you will need to replant.                                                       
                                                                                
* The date of the last killing frost in your area can be used to                
calculate the approximate earliest and latest planting date for                 
spring crops. VCES publication #426-331, Vegetable Planting Guide               
and Recommended Planting Dates can be used to determine planting                
dates and the average length of harvest for each crop. Harvest                  
dates are particularly important if you also plan on having a                   
fall garden.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Have you taken soil tests of your gardens, lawn, orchard and                  
berry patch in the past year?  Don't guess about fertilization.                 
Soil analysis will help you base fertilizer and lime applications               
on the present condition of the soil and the nutrients needed by                
your plants. Contact your local extension agent for instructions                
for sampling soil.                                                              
                                                                                
* Over or under fertilization can weaken or kill plants. Nitrogen               
deficiency is characterized by stunted, yellowing leaves near the               
bottom of the plant and slow, stunted growth. Over application of               
nitrogen may cause leaf tip burn or all vegetative growth (no                   
flowers or fruit).                                                              
                                                                                
* Harden transplants by decreasing water, fertilizer, and growing               
temperatures. Transplant on a shady day, in late afternoon or in                
early evening to reduce transplant shock. Water with a half-stre-               
ngth fertilizer solution. For a few days after transplanting,                   
protect the plants from wind and sun by placing a piece of                      
newspaper or cardboard on their south sides, or by covering with                
jugs, baskets, or flower pots. Water the plants once or twice                   
during the next week.                                                           
                                                                                
* Quality bedding plants are sold already hardened off. Woody and               
yellow plants are overhardened and will be slow to resume growth.               
                                                                                
* Plant Swiss Chard for a constant harvest of greens from spring                
until fall.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Delay mulching to allow soil to warm deeply, but act before                   
weeds become established.                                                       
                                                                                
* If fruit trees are lacking pollinators nearby, cut bouquets of                
blossoms from good pollinators and place them in pails under                    
blossoming trees. Make plans to plant pollinating varieties this                
fall.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Moles are tunnelling insect eaters particularly attracted to                  
grubs. When bulbs are missing, or shrubs have root damage, look                 
for voles or field mice to be the culprits. These rodents often                 
use mole tunnels as their runs.                                                 
                                                                                
* Estimate your grass seed needs at 2-3 lbs of bluegrass seed or                
4-8 lbs. tall fescue per 1000 square feet. Remove debris, level                 
and firm soil before seeding. Cover seed by raking the area                     
lightly.                                                                        
                                                                                
* The last Friday in April is National Arbor Day - plant a tree,                
or support an organization which does.                                          
                                                                                
* Once new growth begins on trees and shrubs, cut back twigs                    
affected by winterkill to green wood.                                           
                                                                                
* For more compact pyracantha bushes without the risk of losing                 
the crop of berries, pinch back new growth now.                                 
                                                                                
* Prune roses to buds which point outward to encourage good air                 
and sunlight penetration. Dark-colored canes indicate dead wood.                
Cut back an inch below these darkened areas. If no live buds are                
left, remove the entire cane or branch.                                         
                                                                                
* Wild greens are often best in early spring when their flavor is               
mild. Common weeds that are edible include: pigweed, mustard,                   
purslane, lambs quarter and dandelion greens. Harvesting these                  
plants from your garden plot will benefit you doubly.                           
                                                                                
* When iris leaves appear thin and limp, check for borers. These                
grub-like insects can ruin an entire planting if not detected and               
eradicated early.                                                               
                                                                                
* When chrysanthemums show signs of life, dig up and divide large               
plants. Discard woody portions and replant divisions 12-15"                     
apart.                                                                          
                                                                                
* To ensure the dahlia tubers you plant have survived storage,                  
sprout them indoors in a warm, lit spot.                                        
March Notes                                                                     
                                                                                
* Plant roses and bare-root shrubs while they are still dormant,                
about 4 weeks before the average date of the last frost.                        
                                                                                
* Buy some new perennials for your flower border. Spring is                     
a good time to renew and add variety to your landscape. Visit                   
a local garden center or secure catalogs from your favorite                     
nursery.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Cannas for early flowering may be started in boxes or large                   
pots in a warm cellar or enclosed porch. Cut the rhizomes into                  
pieces of convenient size and plant in a soil mixture containing                
adequate sand for good drainage. The developing plants are tender               
to cold and may be set in the garden about a week after the                     
average date of the last frost in your area.                                    
                                                                                
* Complete the pruning of shrubs, ornamental trees and fruit                    
trees before growth starts, except for spring flowering shrubs.                 
Prune those which bloom in spring as soon as they finish flower-                
ing.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Repot houseplants that have grown too large for their con-                    
tainers. Cut back leggy plants to encourage compact growth. Root                
the cuttings in moist media to increase your supply of plants.                  
                                                                                
* Don't plow your garden when the soil is wet. It will form                     
clods which are difficult to break up and interfere with cultiva-               
tion during the summer.                                                         
                                                                                
* Don't rush to remove mulch from perennials and strawberries.                  
Leave it over your plants to protect them from later cold spells.               
When plants start to grow, the mulch must be removed to allow                   
leaves to develop in the light. If leaves develop under the                     
mulch, they will become etiolated and yellow from lack of                       
chlorophyll, and may be burned and die when they are exposed to                 
the sun.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Shrubs and trees in the home landscape break up sound waves                   
and reduce the nerve-shattering noise of modern society. Plant                  
some new shrubs and trees this spring to improve the beauty                     
and ambience of your home.                                                      
                                                                                
* Apply a liberal side dressing of 5-10-5 fertilizer on your                    
asparagus bed and around your rhubarb plants. Use about 4                       
lbs. per 100 sq. ft. and scratch it into the top 2 inches of                    
soil. Renew the organic mulch to a depth of about 1 inch to help                
conserve soil moisture during the summer.                                       
                                                                                
* Unsterilized soil may contain organisms that cause damping off,               
a disease that can make young seedlings wither and die suddenly.                
Use a sterilized potting mix in clean pots or flats.                            
                                                                                
* Prune evergreen shrubs before growth starts.                                  
                                                                                
* Boxwood should be pruned by thinning out the top half of the                  
plant and cutting back the branches to retain desired height.                   
                                                                                
* Trees and shrubs which are making weak growth should be                       
fertilized to stimulate more attractive development. About a                    
month before your average last frost apply approximately 1 cup of               
5-10-5 to shrubs 4-8 feet tall. Use more or less with different                 
sized plants. On trees, apply 2 lbs. of 5-10-5 for each inch                    
diameter measured at 3 feet above the ground. Apply uniformly                   
over root zone and water in thoroughly.                                         
                                                                                
* Seed root crops such as carrots, beets, radish and parsnips                   
in your garden.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Start transplants indoors of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant.                 
                                                                                
* Use crabgrass killer before forsythia blooms fade.                            
                                                                                
* When spring-flowering bulbs complete their flowering cycle,                   
fertilize with a little super phosphate or bonemeal to ensure                   
quality blooms next year. Remove the bulb foliage only after                    
it dies naturally.                                                              
                                                                                
* Many annual flowers are very frost hardy when plants are small                
including alyssum, California poppy, candytuft,larkspur, pansy &                
viola, phlox, pinks, Shirley poppy, snapdragon, stock, and sweet                
pea. Seeds can be sown as soon as the soil has thawed.                          
                                                                                
* Divide and transplant perennials such as ajuga, Shasta daisies,               
daylilies, liriope, and oxalis. Rework beds before planting,                    
adding organic matter and fertilizer.                                           
                                                                                
* Greenhouse-grown plants, even hardy kinds, should be acclimati-               
zed before transplanting to the garden in the early spring to                   
minimize the chance of frost injury.                                            
                                                                                
* Spring applications of pesticides should be made on peaches,                  
apples, and pears. Correct timing for spraying depends on the                   
stage of development of flowers. Request a spray schedule from                  
your local agent.                                                               
                                                                                
* Cover old stumps with soil to hasten decay.                                   
                                                                                
* Do not add lime to area for potatoes. The lower pH helps                      
control scab.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Mulches can change soil temperature. Black plastic warms the                  
soil and should be applied before planting. Organic materials                   
delay the sun's penetration thereby keeping the soil cooler. App-               
ly organic mulches after plants are 3-4 inches tall and soil is                 
warm.                                                                           
                                                                                
* A child's first garden should include sunflowers from seeds.                  
The large seeds sprout quickly and dependably and the strong                    
seedlings can push their way through crusted soil. If you are                   
shooting for record sunflowers, your plants will need to top 20                 
feet in height with seed head diameters of 2 feet to be in the                  
running.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Propagate deciduous shrubs such as forsythia and winter jasmine               
now by ground layering.                                                         
                                                                                
* Wait until the weather warms to start putting houseplants                     
outside.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Don't plant more flowers and vegetables than you can maintain.                
Instead, take time to enjoy the spring bulbs and other flowers.                 
                                                                                
* If you haven't done it already, check stored tools and outdoor                
furniture for signs of rust. Remove any surface rust with steel                 
wool and paint with rust-inhibitive paint.                                      
                                                                                
* Rejuvenate your liriope by using a lawn mower to cut back the                 
old foliage to a height of 2 to 3 inches. Avoid mowing too                      
closely and thereby damaging the crown of the plant, as that is                 
where the new growth emerges.                                                   
                                                                                
* Check the average date of the last frost in your area before                  
beginning spring gardening chores. Your county extension agent                  
can give you this information.                                                  
                                                                                
* When buying transplants of flowers and vegetables, choose those               
plants with a compact, bushy form and bright green leaves. Young,               
healthy plants with no flowers or flower buds will adapt more                   
easily and overcome the shock of planting much faster.                          
                                                                                
* Parsley is extremely rich in vitamins A and C. Start some seeds               
indoors now for later transplanting to a sunny corner of the                    
vegetable garden.                                                               
                                                                                
* Houseplants can be watered more frequently with the onset of                  
spring and new growth.                                                          
                                                                                
* Seeds of some annuals such as verbenas, snapdragons and                       
petunias that take 70 to 90 days to bloom should be started                     
indoors in early spring.                                                        
                                                                                
* Variegated plants can help add the illusion of light to a                     
dark area. Shade-loving groundcovers such as variegated liriope,                
ivies, euonymus, and hosta can be very effective for this.                      
                                                                                
* This is the time to start resurrecting the lily pool. Drain and               
clean the pool before growth begins. Plant new hardy water                      
lilies early.                                                                   
                                                                                
* Apply a pre-emergence herbicide before lawn weeds get started.                
These types of chemicals work by preventing the seed from                       
germinating. Therefore, it is important that the herbicides be                  
applied in early spring, before growth of the weed seedlings.                   
Check with your local extension agent for specific recommen-                    
dations.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Don't overexert those underworked winter muscles as you begin                 
your spring gardening. Bend at the knees and lift with your                     
legs, not your back.                                                            
                                                                                
* Hedges can receive their first pruning this month. As you                     
prune, be sure to leave the base of the plant wider than the top.               
This allows sunlight to get to the bottom of the plant, creating                
a full, dense hedge.                                                            
                                                                                
* You may wish to try some new, unusual vegetables in your garden               
this year. A few that can grow successfully in this area are bok                
choy, Jerusalem artichoke, kohlrabi, leeks and horseradish. For                 
planting and harvesting tips, call your extension agent.                        
                                                                                
* Towards the end of the month, plant onion sets, potatoes, peas,               
radishes, asparagus, carrots, turnips, leaf lettuce and other                   
cold-hardy vegetables.                                                          
                                                                                
* Turn the compost pile and add manure.                                         
                                                                                
* Garden magazines are a convenient source for gathering new                    
information. The cost is low, the information up-to-date, and                   
they're delivered to your door.                                                 
                                                                                
* If weeds occur in bulb beds do not remove them by cultivation,                
but pull them by hand so that the bulbs and roots will not be                   
disturbed.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Pick a permanent spot for herbs in the garden. Many of them                   
will come up year after year.                                                   
                                                                                
* When a blanket of snow insulates the lawn, temperatures at                    
ground level may rise to above freezing. Snow mold fungi which                  
appears as a white cottony growth on grass blades thrives at                    
temperatures between 32 and 65 F. To reduce possible snow mold                  
damage, remove heavy snow accumulations in shady areas. If you                  
cannot physically remove the snow, spread ashes or dry peat moss                
on the snow. The dark colored material will absorb solar radiati-               
on and melt the snow faster.                                                    
                                                                                
* Take care to keep off soft and soggy lawns. Lime spreaders,                   
wheelbarrows and other equipment will leave compaction marks.                   
Seed new lawns and do repairs after the land has drained.                       
                                                                                
* Do not spade clay soil when wet. Hard clods will form and                     
interfere with plant emergence and growth.                                      
                                                                                
* Trees which bleed such as birch and maple should not be pruned                
until after their leaves are fully developed.                                   
                                                                                
* Hostas, liriope, daylilies, dicentra, Shasta daisies and coral                
bells are some perennials which can be divided before growth                    
starts.                                                                         
                                                                                
* To extend the asparagus harvest, remove the mulch from only                   
half the bed at first. The sunlight will encourage these plants                 
to sprout more quickly. In 2 or 3 weeks when shoots appear in the               
mulched half, carefully remove the remaining mulch.                             
                                                                                
* When sowing seeds for transplants, leave about 1/4" of space                  
between seeds to allow them to grow adequately and to discourage                
damping-off fungus.                                                             
                                                                                
* The flavor and quality of the new white and yellow varieties of               
beets are similar to the traditional red cultivars.                             
                                                                                
* The Waterlily Society has been formed by a group of                           
aquatic plant lovers. For further information, write them at                    
Box 104, Lilypons, MD 21717.                                                    
                                                                                
* Topiary is the art of clipping and trimming a plant into                      
unusual designs. Forms for indoor typiary can be purchased or                   
shaped by hand from galvanized wire. One media mix for topiary                  
forms is 1 part peatmoss to 1 part potting soil surrounded by                   
sheet moss. Plants such as English ivy and creeping thyme work                  
well for this use.                                                              
                                                                                
* Crabapples, valued for their beautiful spring blossoms and                    
attractive fruit, are members of the rose family. Along with many               
of their relatives, many crabapples are susceptible to diseases                 
such as scab, cedar-apple rust, powdery mildew, and fire blight.                
All of these diseases shorten the life span of the trees and                    
diminish their ornamental qualities. You will want to plant                     
disease-resistant cultivars of crabapple such as 'Ames White',                  
'Autumn Glory', 'Baskatong', 'Beauty', 'Coral Cascade', 'Evelyn',               
'Harvest Gold', 'Molten Lava', 'Red Snow', 'Robinson', 'Tina',                  
or 'Wies'.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Boxwood may be moved now; do not plant them deeper than they                  
were previously planted. Trim and fertilize established boxwood                 
before new growth starts, but do not cultivate under boxwood                    
since their roots are shallow and may be damaged.                               
                                                                                
* After pussywillow catkins have passed their prime, prune the                  
plants drastically to encourage long branches and large catkins                 
for next year.                                                                  
                                                                                
* If your outdoor space is limited, consider gardening without a                
garden. Tomatoes, peppers, lettuce and many other vegetables do                 
well when grown in containers. Barrels, window boxes, cut off                   
milk jugs, almost anything providing good drainage will do as                   
long as it is deep enough to support the plant. Minimum depths                  
for some container-grown vegetables:                                            
 4"-lettuce, radishes, beets, low growing herbs                                 
 6"-chard, turnips, short-rooted carrots                                        
 8"-eggplant, peppers, bush cucumbers                                           
10"-cauliflower, broccoli                                                       
12"-tomatoes, long-rooted carrots                                               
FEBRUARY NOTES                                                                  
                                                                                
* Planning pays off in the intensively cultivated vegetable                     
garden. If you are a novice vegetable gardener, request Publicat-               
ion 836, "Guide to the Beginning Gardener" from your local                      
extension agent. If you are more experienced but have specific                  
questions, there are over 80 fact sheets available to assist you.               
                                                                                
* Plan on hanging a few vegetables this spring, not for criminal                
offense, but for a convenient harvest on your porch or deck. Bush               
cucumbers, small tomato varieties, even lettuce and spinach                     
can be grown in hanging baskets. Many herbs including chives,                   
parsley, and thyme are well-suited to baskets.                                  
                                                                                
* Something new --- True Potato Seed (T.P.S.) are exactly                       
what they are called, true seed (not seed pieces from the tuber)                
for producing a potato crop. The variety Explorer represents                    
a significant breakthrough in potato breeding. Watch for it in                  
catalogs.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Water shrubs in your landscape if the soil is dry. Evergreen                  
plants transpire water from their leaves whenever air temperature               
is above 40 degrees F.                                                          
                                                                                
* Shrubs for spring planting should be ordered now. Bare root,                  
deciduous types should be planted while still dormant, about                    
1 month before the average date of last frost in your area. Hardy               
container-grown and balled and burlapped shrubs may be planted                  
anytime except during severe cold weather.                                      
                                                                                
* Time to transplant deciduous native plants if the ground is                   
not too wet or too frozen.                                                      
                                                                                
* Don't remove your mulch too early. A warm day may make you                    
think spring is almost here but there may be more cold weather                  
yet to come.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Bring branches of spring flowering shrubs and fruit trees                     
indoors to force into bloom. Within about 3 weeks, their flowers                
bring a promise of spring.                                                      
                                                                                
* Don't start your vegetable and flower plants indoors too                      
early. Six weeks ahead of the expected planting date is early                   
enough for the fast-growth species. Eight weeks allows enough                   
time for the slower-growing types.                                              
                                                                                
* Prune shrubs and trees on warm days this month after the                      
coldest weather is past in your area. In the cooler mountain                    
areas of Virginia wait until late February. Wait until early                    
summer to prune your spring flowering shrubs in order to get                    
maximum blossoms.                                                               
                                                                                
* Work the area for early spring garden crops as soon as pos-                   
sible. Apply lime if your soil tests indicate a need. Peas,                     
onions, and Irish potatoes can be planted before March 1 in                     
eastern Virginia.                                                               
                                                                                
* Fruit trees such as peaches, pears, apples and plums can be                   
sprayed with dormant oils to reduce insect problems.                            
                                                                                
* Prune fruit trees and grapes in late February or early March                  
after the worst of the winter cold is passed but before spring                  
growth begins.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Order gladiolus corms now for planting later in the spring                    
after all danger of frost has passed. Locate in full sun in                     
well-drained soil.                                                              
                                                                                
* Bare-rooted trees and shrubs can be planted in late winter                    
while still dormant. Prune off dead or damaged roots and plant                  
in a hole large enough to accommodate root spread in a natural                  
shape. Prune top to compensate for loss of roots.                               
                                                                                
* Kerosene heaters in a small home greenhouse may damage plants                 
from the fumes produced.                                                        
                                                                                
* Root pruning will enhance success of transplanting trees and                  
shrubs if you can wait until next year to move them. This spring                
use a sharp spade to cut a circle 8 inches deep around the                      
plant. (Distance from the trunk will depend on plant size.) New                 
roots form inside this circle during the growing season and can                 
be moved to the new location next spring.                                       
                                                                                
* On mild, sunny days be sure to ventilate cold frames and green-               
houses.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Onion seeds for transplants can be sown indoors early this                    
month.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Order your vegetable and annual flower seeds now while you                    
still have a selection.                                                         
                                                                                
* Remove honeysuckle and other weedy vines from deciduous plants                
while the plants are still leafless. It's easier to distinguish                 
between the weeds and desired plants.                                           
                                                                                
* Gardening in a raised bed improves drainage and gives an                      
earlier start in areas with cold, wet soil.                                     
                                                                                
* If your soil dries out extra fast in the summer, you may                      
experiment with gardening in a depression. Prepare soil in a hole               
or trough several inches below the surface of paths to reduce                   
evaporation and make watering easier.                                           
                                                                                
* Tired of Christmas poinsettia? Don't feel guilty if you toss                  
it out. It, like the Christmas tree, has its seasonal symbolism                 
that many of us prefer to keep intact.                                          
                                                                                
* Use some of the coldest days of February to sit by a fire and                 
read a good gardening book. It will give you ideas and inspira-                 
tion for the spring.                                                            
                                                                                
* Pressed flowers collected last summer or pictures from your old               
garden catalogs can be used to add a romantic floral touch to an                
old-fashioned valentine.                                                        
                                                                                
* Make labels for this spring's garden.  Plastic milk jugs or                   
bleach bottles cut in strips 1 inch by 6 or 7 work well. Use                    
permanent ink markers to write on them.                                         
                                                                                
* Grape vine pruning can be made into attractive wreaths decorat-               
ed with hearts or birds nests as a valentine gift or made into a                
heart shape over a wire frame.                                                  
                                                                                
* Wash your house plants and your windows occasionally to get the               
maximum light to the leaves. Showers for your plants will also                  
help reduce pests such as spider mites.                                         
                                                                                
* If you have seed left from last year, test for germination by                 
placing 10 or 20 in a moist paper towel and covering with                       
plastic. If seed germination is poor, order new seeds - the                     
smallest investment in your gardening budget.                                   
                                                                                
* Check any vegetables you have in storage. Use or dispose of                   
any that show signs of shriveling or rotting.                                   
                                                                                
* Ever wonder why apricots don't set much fruit in Virginia? It                 
is because of the warm days in February or March that encourage                 
the apricot to break dormancy and bloom - only to be followed by                
more freezing weather that knocks the fruit off.                                
                                                                                
* If a warm weekend shows up, consider working an area in the                   
garden for early spring planting. But check the soil first; it                  
should be dry enough to crumble in your hand before you work it.                
                                                                                
* For those who enjoy growing annual herbs but are frustrated by                
the number of extra seed in each packet, make a thoughtful gift                 
for friends or co-workers. On a card draw a design for a small                  
herb garden, then divide the seed from the packet into small                    
envelopes such as a stamp collectors use. Tape the seed to the                  
garden plan and offer a few cultural hints.                                     
                                                                                
* Watch for signs of "heaving" amoung your perennials and small                 
shrubs. The freezing and thawing of the ground can force shallow-               
rooted plants out of the soil. Replant any that have been                       
"heaved" and mulch with 2 inches of organic material to reduce                  
soil temperature fluctuation.                                                   
                                                                                
* In most of Virginia it's too early to start all but your                      
slowestgrowing seed (such as onions), but it's not too early to                 
start getting ready. Gather and wash seeding flats. Treat with a                
1:10 bleach solution to kill micro-organisms. Collect "pots"                    
for transplanting seedings such as styrofoam cups, 3-inch deep                  
bands cut from quart milk jugs, etc.                                            
                                                                                
* Start building up your supply of gardening aids such as plastic               
milk jugs for hot caps and orange juice cans to make guards to                  
stop cut worms.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Cold winds this month should remind you to order evergreen                    
windbreaks. Some suggestions: American arborvitae, Austrian                     
pine, Canadian hemlock, white spruce.                                           
                                                                                
* For cut flowers this summer, order phlox, daisies, dahlias,                   
cosmos, asters, gladiolus, and lilies.                                          
                                                                                
* Prune fruit trees and shade trees as buds begin to swell. For                 
disease and insect control, cut out dead wood and dispose of the                
prunings.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Apple and pear trees are best trained with a modified central                 
leader. Prune to maintain a pyramidal shape--wide at the bottom,                
gradually tapering toward the top. Order publication 426-841 for                
complete instructions.                                                          
                                                                                
* Peaches grow best when maintained with an open center (no                     
central leader). Keep three or four strong scaffold branches                    
evenly distributed around the trunk. Limbs which branch out at a                
60 degree angle are preferred, but spreaders can be used to                     
widen narrow crotch angles.                                                     
                                                                                
* Prune grapes, roses, bush fruits, foliage shrubs, and shrubs                  
which flower in summer while dormant but after the coldest part                 
of winter.                                                                      
                                                                                
* Branches of forsythia, pussy willow, quince, spirea, and                      
dogwood can be forced for indoor bloom. Make long, slanted cuts                 
when collecting the branches and place them in a vase of water.                 
Change the water every four days.                                               
                                                                                
* Bring some apple, cherry, and peach boughs indoors for forcing.               
While the color of fruit blossoms are somewhat pale when forced                 
they hint of the spring show ahead.                                             
                                                                                
* Incorporate any organic matter which you spread on the garden                 
this fall as soon as the soil is thawed and drained.                            
                                                                                
* For an early crop, sow spinach seed in well-drained soil which                
was turned over in autumn. Cover lightly with strawy manure.                    
                                                                                
* Pinch off early buds from developing pansies to encourage                     
plants to branch and form more buds.                                            
                                                                                
* Watch for signs of growth in spring bulbs. Start removing mulch               
gradually when foliage is 1" high. Cloudy days are best best for                
the intial exposure of the leaves as strong sunlight can burn                   
tender foliage.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Fertilize fruit trees as soon as possible after the ground                    
thaws but before blossom time.                                                  
                                                                                
* If bird feeding has been a favorite activity this winter,                     
order trees and shrubs which provide cover and small fruits for                 
your feathered friends. Consider species such as crabapple,                     
hawthorn, holly, dogwood, and pyracantha which help lure hungery                
birds from cultivated fruits, if planted on the opposite side of                
the yard.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Check valuable trees and shrubs for silvery gray, foamy-looking               
tent caterpillar egg masses and bag worms. Remove egg cases to                  
reduce the number of destructive pests this spring.                             
                                                                                
* As a mid-winter project grow plants from fruit seeds. Oranges,                
grapefruits, lemons, tangerines, and pomegranates may have viable               
seed. Try germinating them in a light potting soil mixture                      
containing half peat moss. Keep seeds well watered and in a                     
warm location. If seedlings fail to appear in six weeks, try                    
again.                                                                          
                                                                                
* Citrus plants grown from seeds generally will not produce                     
flowers or fruit, but they will have attractive shiny-leaved                    
foliage.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Blueberries are self-sterile. Be sure to plan for more than                   
one variety to achieve pollination necessary for fruit. High                    
bush blueberries make attractive ornamental hedges with bright                  
red fall color.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Design a flower bed for a shady area. Plan to try impatiens,                  
foxgloves, rosy vinca, begonias,and browallia.                                  
January Notes                                                                   
                                                                                
* Give your holiday gift plants the best care so you can retain                 
their original, attractive appearance. Keep them cool with a                    
temperature of 70 degrees F. during the day and 60 degrees at                   
night. Set the pots on crushed stone or gravel in a pan of water                
to maintain higher humidity.                                                    
                                                                                
* Recycle your holiday decorations. Greenery used in ornaments                  
can be used again in the garden. Wreaths and branches stripped                  
from Christmas trees make excellent mulch for protecting newly                  
planted ornamentals. Remove the material in the spring and                      
compost it.                                                                     
                                                                                
* Move garden ornaments such as urns or jars into the garage                    
or basement to prevent damage during the cold winter season.                    
                                                                                
* Keep all outdoor containers turned upside down during the                     
winter so water will not collect in them and freeze causing                     
breakage. If containers are too large to move, cover them with                  
wood or other sturdy material to prevent water collection.                      
                                                                                
* Avoid heavy traffic on the dormant lawn. Dry grass is easily                  
broken and the crown of the plant may be severely damaged or                    
killed.                                                                         
                                                                                
* When salt is needed to melt ice on walks and drives, spread                   
it carefully to avoid severe damage to nearby lawns and shrubs.                 
Damage to needle-type evergreens will be evident next spring by                 
copper and yellow tones. Damaged deciduous plants will have                     
bronze or reddish leaves.                                                       
                                                                                
* Turn and prune house plants regularly to keep them shapely.                   
Pinch back the stems of house plants as needed to promote                       
balanced growth.                                                                
                                                                                
* During the winter most houses are too dry for house plants.                   
Humidity may be increased by placing plants on trays lined with                 
pebbles and filled with water to within one half inch of the base               
of the pot. If you heat with wood, keep a pot of water on the                   
stove. The added moisture will be healthier for you as well as                  
your plants.                                                                    
                                                                                
* If you have some time this winter, paint the handles of garden                
tools red. This will preserve the wood and make the tools easier                
to locate next summer when you lay them down in the garden or                   
on the lawn.                                                                    
                                                                                
* Overhaul your garden sprayer, inspect leather washers and                     
plunger and replace any worn parts (after thoroughly oiling                     
new leather). It may be difficult to locate some exact parts                    
for your model sprayer. By starting now, you'll have them by                    
gardening season.                                                               
                                                                                
* When reviewing your garden catalogs for new varieties to try,                 
an important consideration is improved insect and/or disease                    
resistance over older plants. Watch also for drought-tolerant                   
plants.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Don't let snow build up on the branches of your shrubs as                     
the weight will distort and break them. Use care in brushing                    
it off to avoid damage.                                                         
                                                                                
* House plants and holidy gift plants should not be placed on                   
top of the television. It is too warm a location and in most                    
homes too far from windows to provide adequate light.                           
                                                                                
* Check all of your plants closely for insect infestations. Pests               
are sometimes brought in on gift plants and those that were                     
present in small numbers before the holidays, may have multiplied               
under neglect.                                                                  
                                                                                
* Plan your herbaceous flower beds now so you can make changes                  
early in the spring. Many perennials will need to be divided.                   
Perhaps you can arrange to trade with friends and neighbors.                    
Designate location in the bed for summer flowering annuals to                   
fill in color between your spring perennials and fall chrysanthe-               
mums.                                                                           
                                                                                
* Review your vegetable garden plans. Perhaps a smaller garden                  
with fewer weeds and insects will give you more produce.                        
                                                                                
* Start planning now for next year's holiday gifts and decora-                  
tions. Record those items you wished you had this year (dried                   
flowers, herbs, pickles and preserves) and make sure you plant                  
them for next year.                                                             
                                                                                
* Before ordering your spring seed, do a "rag doll" germination                 
test on those seeds left over from last year's order. Roll 10                   
or 20 seeds in a damp paper towel, keep moist in a warm location.               
On most crops, germination of viable seed will occur within a                   
week. If half the seeds germinate and you have enough left to                   
plant twice as many as you usually do, you should get an adequate               
crop. Otherwise, order more seed. It's a small investment to                    
insure success.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Don't wait too late in the winter to order seed. Many varieties               
sell out early.                                                                 
                                                                                
* Remember, trees and shrubs have an economic value. If killed                  
or damaged by ice or accident, they may be covered by homeowner's               
insurance or they may be a legitimate loss on your taxes.                       
                                                                                
* Do-it-yourself landscaping projects have a high priority these                
days. They provide savings in more ways than most people realize:               
(1) they enhance property value; (2) they can reduce the cost                   
of heating and cooling bills; (3) they save the actual out-of-                  
pocket expense of contracting to have the job done; (4) they                    
provide indirect savings on taxes (for example, someone in the                  
30% tax bracket would have to earn $430 to have enough after-tax                
cash to pay $300 for a job done around the home); (5) home                      
landscaping is great preventative therapy and improves one's                    
mental health.                                                                  
                                                                                
* For an interesting ornamental plant and a culinary addition,                  
buy a plump unshriveled ginger root at the grocery store and                    
plant in a light sandy soil just under the surface in a 6" to 8"                
pot. Place in a warm sunny window and keep damp until shoots                    
appear. Increase water and fertilize monthly with high phos-                    
phorus. Harvest your crop in about 8 months, saving a piece to                  
replant.                                                                        
                                                                                
* For tips on being a smart mail-order shopper and a list of                    
95 mail-order nurseries, send a self-addressed business sized                   
envelope with 37 cents postage to The Complete Guide to Gardening               
by Mail, Mail Order Association of Nurserymen, Inc., 210 Cart-                  
wright Blvd., Massapequa Park, NY 11762.                                        
                                                                                
* Look at your landscape. Do you need evergreens to protect                     
your privacy, reduce street noise, block the glare of street                    
lights? Order plants now and in February for March planning.                    
                                                                                
* In warmer parts of the state, tuberous begonias and caladiums                 
can be started indoors now. In mountain areas, start next                       
month. Set root starts in pots or shallow boxes of rich soil (1/3               
sand, 1/3 peat, 1/3 loam). Cover with one inch of mixture. Keep                 
moist, not wet, in good light at 65 degrees F. Transplant to                    
larger pots in 6 weeks and set outside in ground after all danger               
of frost.                                                                       
                                                                                
* Bring in bulbs of narcissus, and hyacinths started in pots                    
last fall for late winter indoor blooms.                                        
                                                                                
* Use care in putting wood ashes on the garden. They are alkaline               
and too much will raise the soil pH higher than optimum.                        
                                                                                
* One solution to the deer problem found effective in Louisiana                 
is rotten eggs. A mixture of 12-18 eggs in 5 gallons of water                   
sprayed over an acre emits enough odor to repel deer but not                    
offend the gardener.                                                            
                                                                                
* For added security around the home, plant thorny shrubs on                    
property lines and under windows. Some very thorny ones to                      
consider include pyracantha, tri-foliate orange, Rosa rugosa,                   
or thorny elaeagnus.                                                            
                                                                                
* Late winter (February and March) is the time to prune many                    
deciduous trees. Look over your plants now for dead, dying,                     
or unsightly parts of the tree; sprouts growing at or near the                  
base of the tree trunk; crossed branches (disease organisms                     
enter the tree through the abraded area where branches rub to-                  
gether); and V crotches. As the tree matures, V crotches become                 
increasingly susceptible to splitting. If possible, remove one                  
side of the crotch while the plant is young.                                    
                                                                                
* The 1986 edition of the American Rose Society's Handbook for                  
Selecting Roses is now available. More than 1000 roses are                      
listed alphabetically with color, classification, and a rating                  
as to how well they grow. There is also a section listing high                  
rated roses for easy reference or choice. To obtain your copy,                  
send 60 cents and a stamped, self-addressed envelope to: The                    
American Rose Society, Department US, P.O. Box 30,000, Shreves-                 
port, LA 71130.                                                                 
                                                                                
* For easier lawn maintenance, eliminate the hard to mow spaces.                
Put the bird bath in a flower bed or surround it with ground                    
cover. Eliminate acute angles. Combine single trees or shrubs                   
into a large planting connected with ground.                                    
                                                                                
* Do some reading on trickle irrigation this winter. It will                    
save you time and water and increase your garden yield.                         
                                                                                
* Watch for The Virginia Gardener on television this spring. A                  
weekly series of two-minute programs will be seen on cable                      
stations throughout the state during the 1986 growing season.                   
                                                                                
* After-bloom care is necessary for next year's flowers on                      
amaryllis. In general, at least four strong leaves are needed for               
each flower stalk. Keep the plant growing strongly until mid-July               
before allowing it to go dormant.                                               
                                                                                
* Every two or three years it is best to repot amaryllis bulbs in               
fresh media and increase the pot size is necessary. if offsets                  
are present, you may pot them individually. Immature bulbs                      
generally require 2-3 years to reach bloom size.                                
                                                                                
* Start ageratum, baby's breath, begonia, statics, pansy, sweet                 
pea and snapdragon seed indoors this month.                                     
                                                                                
* On warm days, check if any perennials have been heaved by                     
freezing and thawing of soil. Firmly press down any which have                  
lifted and cover with at least 2" of organic mulch.                             
                                                                                
* There are many prescriptions to keep deer from nibbling                       
ornamentals: fencing, plastic netting, repellants, sprays, hot                  
pepper sauce, egg whites, human hare, lion or tiger manure, even                
rock music. Try a few to find out what works for your uninvited                 
pruners.                                                                        
                                                                                
* Stamp down snow near young trees to discourage mice from                      
nesting under the snow around them.                                             
                                                                                
* Bring house plants which normally thrive on the north side of                 
the house to east windows, while allowing the plants from the                   
east more sun on the south. Also, give the plants that usually                  
are set on the tables away from direct light a short midwinter                  
visit to one of the less exposed windowsills. When extremely cold               
nights prevail, draw the window shades at night or slip lengths                 
of protective cardboard between plants and the glass. Move the                  
tenderest plants away from the window panes on the coldest                      
nights.                                                                         
                                                                                
* If you are considering installing supplemental lighting for                   
your indoor plants, the 48 inch, 40 watt fixture with two                       
fluorescent tubes is the industry standard. Spare parts are                     
readily available and high production assures lower costs for 48                
inch than for other size tubes. Use one cool white and one warm                 
white tube to obtain a light mix most beneficial to plants.                     
                                                                                
* Fluorescent tubes lose intensity with age. If your are using                  
quite a few fluorescent lamps, change a few tubes at a time to                  
avoid plant damage by the sudden increase in light intensity.                   
                                                                                
* Spend a cold evening in front of the fire going through seed                  
catalogs to decide what you are going to plant in this year's                   
garden.                                                                         
                                                                                
* Analyze last year's planting records, and fertilizeing and                    
spraying calendar. Make notations to reorder successful varieties               
as well as those you wish to try again.                                         
                                                                                
* If you potted bulbs of daffodils, crocus, tulips, or hyacinths                
in fall, bring them indoors now to force them into bloom. Place                 
pots in a window that receives direct sunlight for at least a few               
hours each day. Allow soil to dry partially between each water-                 
ing.                                                                            
                                                                                
* Tree branches that have grown so much as to cast excess shade                 
over flower plantings should be cut off in winter when, in                      
falling, they can do no damage to the bed.                                      
                                                                                
* Continue harvesting the carrots, parsnips, turnips, and                       
horseradish you left in the garden in the fall.                                 
                                                                                
* Thin leaved plants seem most sensitive to transplant shock. If                
a plant wilts after repotting, encase the entire plant in a                     
plastic bag. Twist the bag shut and punch two or three holes in                 
it. Allow the plant to recuperate in this protected environment                 
for two or three days. Resist the urge to water a wilted plant if               
the soil is moist.                                                              
                                                                                
* Winter is the time to apply miscible oil sprays to kill                       
over-wintering mites, aphids, and scale. Use on deciduous plants                
and hardy evergreens but not on needleleaf species.                             
                                                                                
* Spray miscible oils when temperatures are above 40 degrees F                  
but not within 24 hours of a freeze. Because oil kills insects by               
suffocation, avoid spraying on windy days to ensure that all                    
surfaces of the plant are covered.                                              
                                                                                
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
Press Releases July 1986                                                        
                                                                                
Growing Onions                             62 lines                             
A Close Look at the Garden                 82 lines                             
Renovating Strawberries                    60 lines                             
Harvesting Vegetables                     120 lines                             
Geraniums                                  75 lines                             
                                                                                
                                                                                
Growing Onions                                                                  
                                                                                
Several different types of onions grow well in Virginia home                    
vegetable gardens.                                                              
                                                                                
The Egyptian onion, also known as the walking onion or tree                     
onion, is a perennial onion. It bears flowers on tall stalks,                   
which are later followed by small bulb-like structures called                   
bulbils. These tiny bulbs can be eaten, or may be replanted to                  
increase the size of the onion patch. If the plants are left                    
unattended, the stalks bend to the ground, the bulbs root                       
and seemingly "walk" through  your garden.                                      
                                                                                
Egyptian onions require little care and will grow almost any-                   
where. The best time to plant them is from the middle of August                 
to November so the plants can get a good start before winter. For               
best results, the ground should be prepared by mixing in generous               
quantities of compost.                                                          
                                                                                
All parts of the Egypian onion are edible at some time. The top                 
bulbs can be used cooked or raw for flavoring. Once dried, they                 
keep very well. The new green tips can substitute for chives. The               
white lower stalks can be chopped raw in a salad. Even the                      
coarser stalks can be added to a favorite stew.                                 
                                                                                
Another perennial onion is the Welsh onion. This onion produces                 
no true bulbs, but the leaves and stems are used for flavoring.                 
Compared to common onions, the flavor is quite mild and sweet.                  
Welsh onion seed can be planted in rows or beds in spring. They                 
will usually thrive in ordinary soil.                                           
                                                                                
Shallots can be used like green onions, or they can be allowed to               
mature into dry bulbs. As with other onions, there is no need to                
worry about light frosts on shallots. They are quite hardy and                  
resistant to cold.                                                              
                                                                                
In most of Virginia, shallots are planted in spring. In warm                    
areas, you may plant them in fall for winter and spring harvest.                
Bury the clove to half its depth, then firm the soil around it                  
making sure the top remains uncovered. Place the cloves at four                 
to six inch intervals in rows that are nine inches apart. After                 
five or six shoots have developed, mulch with straw, leaves, or                 
dry, unfinished compost. Too heavy a mulch will encourage onion                 
maggots and root rot. If grown in a well-drained, sunny location,               
shallots should not suffer from pest or disease damage.                         
                                                                                
Leeks are low in calories and care, and high in vitamins and                    
flavor. Leeks have a long history of being grown in Europe,                     
but they are not as popular in the United States.                               
                                                                                
Like shallots, leeks are generally grown from seeds. Because                    
they have a long growing season (four to five months), they                     
should be sown as early in spring as possible. In the colder                    
parts of the state it is beneficial to start seeds indoors. The                 
plants are very hardy; they can be harvested well into winter.                  
                                                                                
Although the leek is a member of the onion family, it does                      
not develop a true bulb; it grows straight from the neck to                     
the root. The white stems grow to be two inches thick and between               
six and eight inches long, with large, flat, grey-green tops                    
over a foot high. Leeks grow in just about any climate, but                     
require high fertility.                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
A Close Look at the Garden                                                      
                                                                                
Somewhere between the first burst of enthusiasm in the spring                   
and the heat of July, many gardeners tend to lose track of their                
gardens. After the initial soil preparation and sowing of seed,                 
they quit looking to the earth and see only the products from                   
the garden.                                                                     
                                                                                
Believing well-laid plans were properly implemented in the                      
spring, most gardeners are ready to reap the harvest. Rarely do                 
they review those plans to verify their effectiveness. To become                
a more effective gardener, make notes throughout the growing                    
season. At different times of day, take a note pad to the garden.               
Look and record what you see.                                                   
                                                                                
Look at the soil. A key to successful gardening is well-prepared                
soil rich in organic material. Does the soil dry too fast or stay               
water-logged for long periods of time? Has it developed a rich,                 
crumbly texture that makes it a pleasure to work? If it hasn't                  
reached the ideal condition, then there is more work to do.                     
                                                                                
If you have not had a soil test in several years, contact your                  
local Extension agent and do one now. If lime is required to                    
raise the pH, it should be applied in the fall to affect the                    
next year's garden. Till two inches of compost or four to six                   
inches of organic material into your garden this fall. Don't                    
leave it on the surface until spring, as that will slow down                    
the warming of the soil and will not enrich it as much as it                    
could were it tilled in.                                                        
                                                                                
Last spring when you planted the garden, there were no leaves                   
on the trees. Notice now where their shadows fall. Are any                      
of the taller vegetables casting shade on others? Design next                   
year's garden now to provide at least between six and eight                     
hours of full sun to the fruiting crops. Plan for leafy greens                  
in the semi-shade and tall crops and trellises to the north                     
end of the garden to reduce shading.                                            
                                                                                
After watering, the soil should be moist to a depth of at least                 
eight inches to insure deep root penetration. This requires                     
approximately one inch of water. If, your soil is not damp                      
at root depth, evaluate your watering technique.                                
                                                                                
A handheld hose delivers water at such a high rate that it                      
creates runoff before water can penetrate deeply. This partially                
can be overcome by burying a gallon can full of holes near larger               
plants such as tomatoes, and filling it with water for slow                     
seepage.                                                                        
                                                                                
Unfortunately, a greet deal of sprinkler water is lost to                       
evaporation and muddy pathways. Consider a trickle irrigation                   
system where the water removed from the soil by plants is                       
replaced daily. Most home systems will last about three years,                  
reduce water use and significantly increase yield.                              
                                                                                
Much of the work on the garden can be reduced by the proper                     
use of mulch. A good mulch such as leaves or straw helps maintain               
soil moisture, while a poor one such as fresh sawdust or peat                   
crusts and reduces water penetration. Avoid using grass clippings               
from lawns that have been treated with weed killer.                             
                                                                                
The bottom line of success in the garden for most of us is the                  
genuine satisfation we gain from producing some of our food.                    
If your yield is not what you expect, look over your garden                     
practices. If the peppers and tomatoes are vigorous but have no                 
fruit, you may have overfertilized with nitrogen. Low cucurbits                 
yields may be traced to poor bee pollination, perhaps due to                    
indiscriminate use of carbaryl insecticide which kill bees                      
as well as pests.                                                               
                                                                                
If the lettuce is bitter and your broccoli in bloom, you just                   
waited too late to harvest and they succumbed to summer heat.                   
Poor corn development may result from planting in single rows                   
instead of blocks of four or more rows to insure good wind polli-               
nation.                                                                         
                                                                                
If squash is woody, tomatoes rotting on the vine, and green                     
beans too old to snap, you probably planted too much. Reduce                    
the size of the garden and plant flowers, or invite friends                     
over to help with the harvest. Either way, you add a new dimen-                 
sion to the joy of gardening.                                                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
Renovating Strawberries                                                         
                                                                                
Renovation of the strawberry patch is greeted with less enthu-                  
siasm than many other tasks in the garden. One has the feeling                  
that to delay the renovation will somehow lengthen the year's                   
harvest another day or another week. The best time to get your                  
berries ready for good yield next year, however, is to start as                 
soon as this year's harvest is complete.                                        
                                                                                
If your strawberry planting has made vigorous growth and is                     
free of weeds, it is a relatively simple task to rejuvenate it.                 
Remove the mulch and clip the tops of the plants to about one                   
inch above the crowns with a scythe or mower. Be careful not                    
to cut into the crown (the heavy growth point) at ground level.                 
If the crown is damaged, the plant may not recover.                             
                                                                                
If insects and foliage diseases are prevalent, dispose of the                   
leaves and mulch material. Apply a quickly soluble nitrogen                     
fertilizer such as nitrate of soda at the rate of 1/2 to 3/4                    
pounds per 100 feet of row to encourage vigorous top growth.                    
If nitrogen of soda is not readily available, you can substitute                
three pounds of 5-10-5 or 1.5 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer                     
per 100 square feet broadcast over the entire planting. Rototill                
or dig between the rows to incorporate the fertilizer and mulch                 
into the top few inches of soil.                                                
                                                                                
If the matted row is quite thick, the plants may require thin-                  
ning. After new foliage appears, thin the plants to six to eight                
inches apart leaving the strongest, most vigorous plants. Keep                  
the planting cultivated throughout the summer and irrigate when                 
necessary during dry periods to keep plants growing vigorously.                 
Fertilize again in the fall and renew mulch after freezing                      
weather begins.                                                                 
                                                                                
Early next spring, it would be a good idea to start a new                       
strawberry patch so that you can turn the one you renovated this                
year into a fall garden or plant a cover crop in its place. Two                 
really good harvests are about all you can expect from one patch                
so it's nice to have another one ready.                                         
                                                                                
Some people report maintaining the same patch for many years.                   
Either they have been incredibly fortunate with insects and                     
disease and have the most unbelievable soil in the area, or they                
have become accustomed to poor quality and low yield, and                       
forgotten that things can be much better.                                       
                                                                                
Don't try to scavenge plants from last year's beds to start                     
a new patch. Old plants will likely infest the bed with red                     
stele or other diseases and insects. Instead, order disease-free                
plants and experiment with new varieties.                                       
                                                                                
If your strawberry harvest comes from a strawberry jar, crock,                  
raised pyramid or other container, it is equally important to                   
renovate it and insure vigorous growth for next years. Try the                  
"hill" system of culture for such containers. Select the most                   
vigorous plants and remove all others that developed over the                   
last year. Keep all runners removed so that all of the plant's                  
energy goes into development of the primary plant. Use hand                     
shears to remove last year's foliage one inch above the soil                    
level to eliminate insect and diseases that they may harbor.                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
Harvesting Vegetables                                                           
                                                                                
Does a vine-ripened, home-grown tomato look different from a                    
hot-house produced, grocery-store tomato? With tomatoes, it may                 
be easy to tell when fruit is ripe, but for a beginning gardener,               
telling when to harvest produce may be difficult. Sometimes, as                 
much produce is lost due to improper harvesting as due to                       
insects. Here are descriptions of harvesting techniques for some                
common home grown vegetables.                                                   
                                                                                
Green or Wax Snap Beans--Pick when the pods are full size. The                  
newer varieties can be delayed until the beans are full size as                 
long as the pods are still tender. They should break off easily                 
with a "snap" when ready for harvesting. The seeds should not                   
cause the pods to bulge.                                                        
                                                                                
Pole and Half Runner Beans--Harvest as snap beans when young and                
stringless or shell beans when mature.                                          
                                                                                
Lima Beans--Pods should be green with swellings to show the                     
beans inside. Open a pod or two; beans should be plump but still                
green or gray-green (not white). Pick often to prolong picking                  
season.                                                                         
                                                                                
Sweet Corn--Harvest while the husk is still dark green. Kernels                 
should be full size and yellow or white to the tip of the ear,                  
but still in the soft, `milk stage' of growth. Corn is sweetest                 
just as the silk blackens. Remember that corn matures very                      
rapidly in hot weather and that it should be refrigerated                       
immediately after picking to prevent the sugar from turning to                  
starch.                                                                         
                                                                                
Cucumbers--Those of moderate size are best. Yellowing indicates                 
old age. Don't allow old cucumbers to remain on the vine because                
they will keep the vine from bearing more cucumbers. Harvest                    
while young and green when the seeds are soft. To use cukes for                 
sweet pickles, harvest when two to three inches long; for dills,                
five to six inches; and for slicing, six to eight inches.                       
                                                                                
Muskmelons--They develop the best flavor when they ripen in                     
warm, dry weather. They may taste more like cucumbers if they                   
mature in cool, rainy weather. Pick them at "full slip" stage                   
when the stem separates readily from the fruit. Fully ripe                      
melons are sweetest. As the melon ripens, the netting becomes                   
more prominent and the background color changes from a light                    
green to a tan or yellow cast. After harvesting, the fruit can be               
held at room temperature for one to three days until the blossom                
end softens.                                                                    
                                                                                
Okra or Gumbo--The best quality is when the pods are two to                     
three inches long. They may have to be harvested daily to get                   
the quality size. Pick within a few days after the flower                       
petals have fallen whether pods are to be used or not. If pods                  
are allowed to ripen, the plant ceases to produce.                              
                                                                                
Eggplant--Harvest when the fruits are large and shiny and an                    
even deep purple color. Keep mature fruits picked off and plants                
will produce over a long period of time. Fruit in which the                     
seeds have turned brown are of poor quality and past the edible                 
stage. To tell if the fruit is mature, press the side of the                    
fruit slightly. If the indentation remains, it is mature.                       
                                                                                
Potatoes--Dig them whenever tubers are large enough to eat.                     
Dig only what will be used immediately, because they keep better                
in the soil than in a warm house or basement. Harvest when the                  
tops have died down but before the first heavy freeze. When                     
digging, avoid skinning and injury. Avoid long exposure of                      
potatoes to light.                                                              
                                                                                
Tomatoes--Harvest them when fully vine-ripened and dark red.                    
Regardless of the state of maturity, picked tomatoes should be                  
put in the shade, not the sun. Light is not necessary for                       
immature tomatoes to ripen. Sun causes uneven ripening and                      
abnormal color formation. To obtain good color and flavor, hold                 
partly riped fruit at 70 degrees F then place in the refriger-                  
ator. Pick some green tomatoes and store in a cool (about 55                    
degrees F), moist, dark place before the first killing frost.                   
Ripen by putting them in a location that is 70 degrees F.                       
                                                                                
Cabbage--Harvest anytime after a firm head develops. If some                    
plants can't be harvested after they reach full maturity, bend                  
them to the ground on one side and break part of the roots to                   
reduce the possibility of head splitting from excess water                      
intake. If heads have not split, they can be stored for long                    
periods at tempertures of 32 to 45 degrees F.                                   
                                                                                
Broccoli--Cut while clustered flower heads are firm and green.                  
Take heads with leaves and 5 or 6 inches of stem (also edible).                 
Don't damage short side branches; they will produce smaller                     
heads if left to grow.                                                          
                                                                                
Brussels sprouts--Twist or snap off sprouts when they are firm                  
and still deep green (usually about the time lowest big leaves                  
start to yellow). Harvest lowest sprouts first. Upper ones will                 
continue to enlarge to harvesting size. The flavor of Brussels                  
sprouts improves after exposure to frosts.                                      
                                                                                
Cauliflower--As soon as blossom heads (farmers call them curds)                 
begin to form, pull the upper outer leaves over them to shade                   
from the sun. This blanching process gives a white curd. Inspect                
from time to time and cut off curd when the flower sections begin               
to separate.                                                                    
                                                                                
Kale--Cut off outer leaves from plants as needed. In thinning,                  
pull smaller plants and use (but don't eat roots).                              
                                                                                
New Zealand Spinach--Pinch off or cut with a sharp knife 2 to 3                 
inch lenths of tender stem tips with leaves. New shoots will grow               
to replace them.                                                                
                                                                                
Turnips and rutabagas--Pull young plants with tiny roots to thin                
rows and give growing room to the remaining plants. Eat thin-                   
nings, tops and all. At 2-inch diameters, roots are tastiest,                   
and tops are still good as greens. At 3 inches and above, roots                 
are still good and store a little better. Late planted rutabagas                
can stay in the ground until needed.                                            
                                                                                
                                                                                
Geraniums                                                                       
                                                                                
For over 300 years, gardeners have enjoyed the continuously                     
renewing color of geraniums in the garden. Bright colors, perky                 
flower heads, and contrasting foliage have made them increasingly               
popular. Geraniums come in every flower color, except blue and                  
yellow. Their diversity of flower form and color, growth habits,                
and garden requirements make them highly adaptable for home                     
gardeners.                                                                      
                                                                                
Zonal Geraniums                                                                 
                                                                                
So-called because many of them have zones or patterns in the                    
center of the leaves, these are the ones most people recognize                  
as geraniums (even though they're not geraniums to the botanist,                
but Pelargoniums). Varieties with self-branching habit and                      
compact growth make tidy, well-shaped plants with a show of                     
color all summer long. Some of the varieties have unusually dark                
green foliage which makes a particularly striking contrast to                   
the colorful flower heads held above the foliage. Semi-double                   
flower types are highly desirable because they resist weather                   
damage well and are not as subject to shattering as are singles.                
                                                                                
Many of the new zonal geranium varieties (Pelargonium hortorum)                 
have been bred for free flowering, earliness, compactness and                   
self-branching characteristics making them particularly good                    
plants for every geranium use, from planting beds to container                  
plants for porch and patio.                                                     
                                                                                
Ivy Leaf Geraniums                                                              
                                                                                
Ivy-leafed geraniums have been developed from Pelargonium                       
peltatum. In Europe, over 45% of all geraniums produced are ivy                 
geraniums. Ivy geraniums bear semi-double flowers in colors                     
from white through all the pastels of pink to red. Plants are                   
particularly valuable for use in container plantings, hanging                   
baskets and window boxes where their flowering character provides               
soft effects. Traditionally, they've been used alone, but in                    
recent years the trend has been to combine them with other                      
flowers such as bachelor buttons and ageratum in mixed plantings.               
The key to these plantings is fullness--one or more kinds of                    
flowers for a vertical line, lower growing plants for mass, and                 
trailing varieties such as ivy geraniums to drape over container                
edges for softness and color.                                                   
                                                                                
Ivy geraniums prefer full sun and an eastern exposure where                     
temperatures generally remain below 80 degrees F, but can grow                  
well and bloom in dappled shade where temperatures go higher. For               
container plantings, top dress with a slow-release fertilizer to                
provide nutrient needs. Water is critical in container plantings,               
even more so in hanging baskets where all parts of the container                
are exposed to air movement.                                                    
                                                                                
Cascades                                                                        
                                                                                
Breeding work has brought about a new class of geraniums called                 
cascades. Cascade varieties are the ultimate container plants                   
so heavily covered with blooms that the foliage becomes hidden by               
the blossoms. Cascades are very popular in Europe where they are                
widely used for balcony plantings, window boxes and other                       
container plantings. They also make outstanding ground cover                    
plantings where you want bloom all summer long. Use them on                     
slopes or in ground beds.                                                       
                                                                                
Plant in full sun for the most bloom, but cascade geraniums are                 
also delightful in partial shade or dappled shade. Plants bloom                 
well even if exposed to four hours of full shade per day. The                   
plants are self-branching; each one becomes a mound of color,                   
flowing over the edges of containers to soften the lines and                    
enhance the plantings. The plants are also self-cleaning, which                 
means that spent flower heads drop away when finished blooming.                 
Varieties range in height from tall (24 inches) to very compact                 
kinds which may not exceed 12 inches in length. Fertilize and                   
water regularly to produce a great crop.                                        
                                                                                
Press Releases June 1986                                                        
                                                                                
Tomato Problems Caused by Culture or Environment    60 lines                    
Pinching and Disbudding Flowers                     52 lines                    
Garden Construction on a Budget                     65 lines                    
Iris Care                                           69 lines                    
Plants Have Many Roles                              72 lines                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
Tomato Problems Caused by Culture or Environment                                
                                                                                
Bossom End Rot. If your tomatoes appear to be inedible because                  
of large, dark, leathery areas on the end of the fruit where the                
blossom was, the problem may be blossom end rot. This is a                      
physiological problem associated with a water/calcium imbalance                 
in the plant. It is not caused by a fungus. Fungicides, there-                  
fore, will not correct the problem, although they may protect                   
the fruit from secondary fungi.                                                 
                                                                                
Blossom end rot occurs when there are dramatic fluctuations in                  
the amount of moisture the plant can absorb. These fluctuations                 
may be caused by heavy rainfall, drought or root injury. A lack                 
of calcium in the soil increases the severity of the problem.                   
                                                                                
To prevent blossom end rot, make sure the soil has sufficient                   
calcium. A standard soil test will indicate whether sufficient                  
calcium is present. Next, make sure your tomatoes receive a                     
constant, but not excessive supply of water. Adding organic                     
matter to the soil prior to planting will help, as will a layer                 
of mulch placed around the tomatoes.                                            
                                                                                
Always practice shallow cultivation in order to avoid injuring                  
tomato roots. Avoid applications of high nitrogen fertili-                      
zer, which promotes rapid growth. Superphosphate fertilizers                    
like 4-12-4, 5-20-5, and others are much better and contain                     
calcium, which may reduce blossom end rot.                                      
                                                                                
If your tomatoes develop blossom end rot, don't be too discour-                 
aged. The condition should correct itself when moisture fluctau-                
tions cease. Tomatoes which have blossom end rot may be usable.                 
Simply cut out the affected area if it is not too large.                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
Tomato Leaf Roll. Another tomato problem brought on by enviro-                  
nmental conditions is tomato leaf roll. The symptoms of this                    
nonparasitic disease usually begin with curling up of the                       
bottom leaflets. This curling may become so severe that the leaf                
margins touch or even overlap. Once the leaves are curled, they                 
will not unfold. Affected leaves will be firm and leathery.                     
                                                                                
Several conditions contribute to the development of tomato leaf                 
roll. Tomato plants that are severely pruned or have their root                 
system damaged by deep cultivation or moisture extremes are                     
likely to develop leaf roll. The condition is common following                  
heavy rains which keep the soil waterlogged. Some tomato varie-                 
ties are more susceptible to leaf roll than others.                             
                                                                                
Since tomato leaf roll is a nonparasitic disease, there is no                   
disease organism involved; therefore, pesticides will not prevent               
leaf roll of tomato plants. The problem can be avoided to a                     
great extent by planting tomatoes in well drained soil. However,                
the problem may develop during periods of heavy or prolonged                    
rain, regardless of soil condition.                                             
                                                                                
Tomato leaf roll does not normally affect the growth of the                     
plant. Tomato plants showing the condition should produce a                     
normal crop. Fruits may develop sunscald if the leaf roll is                    
severe and exposes them to full sunlight. Overall, tomato                       
leaf roll is nothing to worry about.                                            
                                                                                
                                                                                
Pinching and Disbudding Flowers                                                 
                                                                                
The training of the annual flowers in your garden can be as                     
fascinating as the pruning of your shrubs. In fact, it may be                   
more rewarding because you will see the results of your effort                  
within a very short time.                                                       
                                                                                
One of the first training operations is to pinch back the main                  
stems of your plants to encourage bushy growth. This should be                  
done with annuals such as petunia, snapdragon and zinnia.                       
                                                                                
Pinch off an inch of the top of the stem when the young plants                  
are 4 to 5 inches tall. This will cause side branches to develop                
on the lower part of the stem. To obtain very dense, bushy                      
plants, pinch back a second time when the laterals attain a 4                   
or 5 inch length. The double pinching of annual flowers will                    
produce a compact plant with many blooms. This procedure will                   
give large numbers of flowers for arrangements in the home, or a                
mass of blooms in the flower bed or border.                                     
                                                                                
Another type of training which you might want to practice is                    
disbudding. Remove all buds as they develop except the one at                   
the top. When you allow only the top bud to grow, it receives                   
all the food from the leaves on that stem and becomes a large                   
fine flower. This is the way to produce superior specimens for                  
flower shows.                                                                   
                                                                                
Disbudding is easy. While flowering stems are developing look                   
for the buds that form in the angles of the leaves along the                    
side of the stem. When these become large enough to be seen                     
easily, remove them by bending them to the side and snapping                    
them off at the base. Inspect your plants every few days because                
these lateral buds grow very fast during the early summer.                      
                                                                                
Pinching and disbudding are especially useful practices for                     
raising large chrysanthemums. As a rule the plant should be                     
pinched only once, and only two or three stems allowed to grow                  
on each plant. Remove all other lateral branches as they develop.               
                                                                                
To secure long-stemmed, exhibition type chrysanthemums you                      
should tie the two or three stems of each plant to separate                     
stakes or vertical string supports. Be sure to watch for buds                   
along the side of stems and remove them as soon as possible.                    
                                                                                
Roses should also be disbudded. As the stems develop, remove all                
side buds when they become about a half inch long. You will have                
fewer roses on your bushes, but the ones you do have will be                    
large beautiful specimens.                                                      
                                                                                
Remove all faded flowers from annuals and roses as soon as they                 
die. This will cause plants to continue to bloom throughout                     
summer.                                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
Garden Construction on a Budget                                                 
                                                                                
Many gardeners feel caught in a classic approach/avoidance                      
conflict. On the approach side, there are many projects to make                 
the yard more attractive, easier to care for, and more useful                   
for entertaining friends or just relaxing. On the avoidance side,               
money is often tight, and projects cost money.                                  
                                                                                
Of course, staying home and building a patio is cheaper than a                  
family vacation. But if you can't afford either one this year,                  
you need to learn the fine art of scrounging.                                   
                                                                                
A primary requirement for good scrounging is an active imagina-                 
tion. You've got to see possibilities in things others have                     
thrown or might throw away; might give away if properly asked;                  
or, as a last resort, might sell cheaply.                                       
                                                                                
Among the most familiar recycled materials found in the home                    
garden are railroad ties, broken concrete, salvaged timbers,                    
scrap lumber, slab wood, and used brick. With more imagination,                 
old tires, wire cable spools, wooden crates and pallets can be                  
used effectively. Some materials can be obtained for the hauling                
and others for a small investment, while others are lucrative                   
businesses for someone. Each has merits and drawbacks to be                     
considered.                                                                     
                                                                                
Railroad ties, about 6 x 8 inches of rough timber 8 feet long,                  
are usually pressure treated with creasote. They can be toxic to                
plants unless weathered for several years. The condition of the                 
tie and the type of wood varies, as does the cost. Ties are                     
especially good for low walls, such as raised beds, steps and                   
curbing. Treated timber, about 4 x 4 inches and larger, generally               
can be found in better condition and with a greater choice of                   
sizes than railroad ties. However, prices are much higher.                      
                                                                                
Scrap lumber from construction projects, demolitions or similar                 
sources is usally free but may be difficult to work with due to                 
varying sizes, nails, and chemical treatment. Avoid wood treated                
with pentachlorophynol (Penta), a wood preservative, as it                      
remains quite toxic to plants for many years. Penta is no longer                
being used to treat new wood but you may find it on some recycled               
lumber.                                                                         
                                                                                
If you live near a timber area, slab wood (the bark and timber                  
left after cutting a round log into a square beam), can be had                  
for free or up to about $8 a pickup load. What you don't burn to                
heat your house, can be used to build raised beds, rustic sheds,                
fences, and other structures.                                                   
                                                                                
Broken concrete, in sizes approximately 4 inches thick by 12                    
inches wide by 24 inches long, can be stacked for garden walls.                 
Leave pockets for plants spaced along the wall. For patios, odd                 
shapes of concrete result in a flagstone appearance and lend                    
themselves well to interplanting. An acid stain will give                       
concrete a more stonelike appearance.                                           
                                                                                
Used bricks can be less expensive and more attractive than new                  
ones in a rustic garden setting. Beware of using brick from                     
the inner layers of thick brick walls or from buildings that                    
have burned. They may not be weather resistant and you may end                  
up with a "brick dust" patio.                                                   
                                                                                
As your scrounging experience grows, so will your imagination                   
and quick eye. There are even stories of one gardener who used                  
bed springs to trellis his cucumbers.                                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
Iris Care                                                                       
                                                                                
Bearded iris in the perennial border should be divided and                      
replanted in midsummer. The best time is immediately after the                  
blooming season is completed. The operation may be delayed until                
fall, but summer is preferred by most growers. When clumps                      
are divided at this time, the new plants will become well                       
established before winter and be ready to produce a fine crop of                
flowers next spring.                                                            
                                                                                
The bearded iris has a fleshy rhizome or stem which grows along                 
the surface of the soil. New side buds are developed each year                  
until a large network of branched rhizomes is established. If                   
large blooms are desired, the plants should be divided and                      
replanted every three to five years, depending on the density of                
the clump.                                                                      
                                                                                
In preparing to replant bearded iris, cut the leaves back to                    
about six inches. Then, with a pointed shovel dig around all                    
sides of the plant and lift the entire clump out of the ground.                 
Wash away the soil. With a sharp knife cut off the short side                   
branches which have a cluster of leaves at the end. Discard the                 
old center portion of the clump.                                                
                                                                                
Inspect each rhizome for signs of insect feeding or decay. The                  
most serious insect pest of iris, the iris borer, are often                     
found at this time. Check the rhizome for the 1 1/4 inch long,                  
pinkish larvae with a row of black spots down the sides, and                    
check the soil for the inch-long borer pupae. Destroy any that                  
are found. Rhizomes infested with borers may also be infected                   
with bacterial soft rot. Remove diseased areas with a knife. If                 
extensive rot is present, discard the entire rhizome.                           
                                                                                
Replant the new divisions after cutting the roots back to about                 
two inches. Plant in well drained soil and cover about one inch                 
deep. In heavy or poorly drained soils the top of the rhizome                   
should be exposed to reduce the possibility of rot.                             
                                                                                
After the planting operation is completed, apply a side dressing                
of 5-10-5 fertilizer at the rate of about two pounds per 100                    
feet of row. Scratch the fertilizer into the top inch of soil and               
water thoroughly. Apply a very light mulch of sawdust or peat                   
moss to help conserve soil moisture. Do not use a heavy mulch                   
which may increase the possibility of rhizome rot. Additional                   
water may be needed every two weeks during periods of drought.                  
                                                                                
After the ground has frozen, apply additional mulch. This will                  
conserve moisture and help to prevent the alternate freezing and                
thawing of the soil that may push plants out of the ground.                     
                                                                                
Irises grown from divisions should bloom the next spring after                  
planting. For a quick flower display, plant three individual                    
rhizomes 8 to 10 inches apart. But remember, the more closely                   
together iris rhizomes are planted, the sooner they will need to                
be divided.                                                                     
                                                                                
The same planting procedure is suggested for dwarf and interme-                 
diate bearded irises. Try some of these shorter types to add new                
interest to the garden. Dwarf varieties bloom in early spring,                  
followed by the intermediate and then the tall types. Some of                   
the intermediate varieities produce a second crop of flowers in                 
the fall.                                                                       
                                                                                
You might also consider planting some of the crested irises.                    
This is a dwarf type which is related to the bearded iris. The                  
plants grow to a height of six to nine inches, and are ideal for                
the rock garden or low border. This type received its name from                 
the crest of tissue along the falls (flower petals oriented                     
downward) in place of the beard.                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Plants Have Many Roles                                                          
                                                                                
Plants do a lot for people...they clean the atmosphere, modify                  
climate, abate noise, inhibit glare and control erosion. In                     
addition, many are lovely to the eye and tasty to eat.                          
                                                                                
Plants clean and purify existing air as well as manufacture                     
oxygen. Each person requires 30 to 60 pounds of clean air to                    
breathe each day. Ornamental plants provide clean air in four                   
ways: First, their "manufactured" air created through photosyn-                 
thesis dilutes polluted air and increases the ratio of "clean                   
to dirty" air.                                                                  
      Second, moisture that plants give off traps airborne                      
particles and acts as a filter for some pollutants. A single,                   
mature apple tree gives off 300 gallons of water per day.                       
      Third, hairy leaves and stems of many plants trap airborne                
particles and hold them until they are washed to the ground by                  
rain. In one large city, the dust count on the down-wind side of                
a heavily planted area measured 75 percent lower than a similar                 
count on the up-wind side.                                                      
      Fourth, trees can slow the air movement sufficiently for                  
heavier dust particles and pollutants to settle.                                
      Additionally, Fumes and odors can be masked by plants with                
particularly fragrant blooms or foliage.                                        
                                                                                
By modifying the intensity of sunlight and by wind and humidity                 
control, plants can have a significant impact on the temperature                
around the home. The shady area under trees is cooler because of                
both an increase in moisture and a decrease in direct solar                     
radiation.                                                                      
                                                                                
Trees not only give off moisture, but the leaf canopy tends to                  
prevent moisture-laden air from moving away. This moist air is                  
more difficult to heat than dry air and can help reduce the                     
temperature near the tree.                                                      
                                                                                
Trees are also effective at shielding something from the sun's                  
radiation. Leaves, twigs and branches absorb part of the radia-                 
tion, transmit a smaller portion, and reflect the rest.                         
                                                                                
There are several more ways plants can modify the climate. One                  
important way is to use trees that are deciduous (those which                   
lose their leaves in the winter) in landscaping, to reduce both                 
heating and cooling bills. Trees planted so that they reflect the               
sun away from the house and shade it during the summer help keep                
the house cool. In the winter, when they have lost their leaves,                
the sun is able to reach the house and warm it.                                 
                                                                                
Noise can be reduced with properly placed ornamental plantings.                 
Trees, shrubs, vines and turf absorb noises. Plant parts break                  
up sound waves, changing their direction and reducing their                     
intensity. Densely growing plants are best for sound control but                
the width of the planting is critical. To effectively screen                    
highway noises, plantings would have to be 25 to 35 feet thick.                 
Plant sounds, such as rustling leaves, help conceal or disguise                 
offensive noises.                                                               
                                                                                
Glare from car headlights can be annoying. Control of such glare                
can be achieved by placing buffer plantings between the light                   
source and the room. Place them close to the house to be most                   
effective.                                                                      
                                                                                
A secondary source of glare, such as reflected sunlight from                    
pavements, can be reduced by plants too. Plants, even in tubs or                
containers, can be used to visually "break up" or soften a                      
reflective surface. The light is reflected to the plant, which                  
softens it by diffraction before it reaches the viewers' eyes.                  
                                                                                
Finally, erosion control is an important role for plants. Trees,                
shrubs, vines, ground covers and grasses help prevent serious                   
erosion by intercepting and breaking the impact of raindrops and                
by holding the soil in place with their roots.                                  
May 1986 Press Releases                                                         
                                                                                
Identifying Pests                                 66 lines                      
Flowering Tobacco                                 38 lines                      
Summer Blooming Perennials                        79 lines                      
Trellis for Efficiency                            54 lines                      
Protecting Shade Trees from Construction Damage   64 lines                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Identifying Pests                                                               
                                                                                
A variety of insects live in home vegetable gardens in the                      
state. Although some are beneficial, such as lady bug beetles,                  
and praying mantis, many cause damage and  frustration to the                   
gardeners  as they attempt to get rid of them.                                  
                                                                                
Chemical insect controls are most effective when the correct                    
insecticide is applied properly to the insect it was meant to                   
control. Gardeners need to be able to identify the insects. Here                
is a description of some of the most common garden pests to help                
in identification:                                                              
                                                                                
Aphids or plant lice are small, soft-bodied sucking insects                     
usually found in large numbers on the undersides of many vege-                  
table plant leaves. They vary from gray to green, brown, yellow                 
or black in color. As the aphid sucks the juices from the plant,                
curling, wilting or even stunting may occur.                                    
                                                                                
Striped and spotted cucumber beetles feed on cucumber, squash,                  
melon, and related plants. The beetles first attack more mature                 
plants. Beetles may carry bacterial wilt disease which often                    
causes the plant's death. Both beetles are yellow and under 1/2"                
in length; one has black stripes, the other black spots. Late in                
the season, beetles may be found inside blossoms.                               
                                                                                
The cutworm is a familiar sight; it rolls up into a "ball" when                 
disturbed. Its damage is most conspicuous when young plants are                 
cut off at the soil surface. Weedy gardens tend to add to cutworm               
problems. The caterpillars, the larvae of night flying moths,                   
vary in color-green to brown to black and generally are soft-                   
bodied, smooth and cylindrical.                                                 
                                                                                
Although the Mexican bean beetle resembles one of the helpful                   
lady beetles, it is not beneficial. These yellowish to copper                   
colored beetles with black spots can be found on beans along with               
their fuzzy yellow larvae. The primary symptom is skeletonization               
of the leaves; however, the insects will attack young pods and                  
stems if the leaves are tough or already have been destroyed.                   
                                                                                
Colorado potato beetles defoliate potatoes, eggplants and                       
tomatoes. The beetles feed first on tender foliage. After                       
mating, females lay masses of yellow eggs on the undersides of                  
leaves. The larvae are brick red in color and have a slug-like                  
appearance. They also feed on the leaves, often leaving nothing                 
but a bare stalk.                                                               
                                                                                
The tomato hornworm is a large green caterpillar with white                     
markings. The hornworm has a spike-like projection on one of the                
last abdominal segments, hence its name. The tomato hornworm                    
feeds on tomato leaves and green fruit, causing early defoliation               
and deformed fruit. Many times gardeners see a hornworm with a                  
number of white projections on its back. These are the cocoons of               
a small parasitic wasp that is part of the natural control                      
complex for caterpillars, such as the hornworms. Hornworms with                 
cocoons on them should be left in the garden. The insect is                     
already declining and the wasps which hatch can control other                   
caterpillars.                                                                   
                                                                                
Cabbage loopers often go unoticed because their coloring is                     
similar to that of their host plants. They feed on cabbage and                  
related crops, including broccoli, cauliflower and kale. These                  
green worms first feed on the outer leaves, but gradually work                  
their way to the inner parts of the plant. A person may have                    
been surprised to find one or two in the water after cooking a                  
head of broccoli.                                                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
Flowering Tobacco                                                               
                                                                                
Plant breeders look for garden flowers that will stay in bloom                  
for several weeks despite summer heat and humidity. They have a                 
good prospect in the dwarf, day-blooming, fragrant nicotiana.                   
The old style tall flowering tobacco was treasured for its                      
evening frangrance but it didn't have a great deal else to                      
offer. Tall spikes of flowers remained closed until dusk and the                
colors were rather muddy. The spindly spikes could be wrecked by                
wind and rain.                                                                  
                                                                                
New dwarf nicotianas grow to a height of only 15 to 18 inches,                  
branch at the base to form multiple flower spikes and are day                   
blooming. Their delectable fragrance, is noticeable from several                
feet away on calm, humid days. If there are hummingbirds anywhere               
in the neighborhood, they'll be visiting the nicotiana.                         
                                                                                
So many of the tubular, starpointed blossoms are borne on each                  
plant that the breeders have had to select for a "self cleaning"                
habit. Spent blossoms of the new varieties are shaken off by the                
gentlest breeze.                                                                
                                                                                
Rain or shine, the color impact of nicotianas is extraoridinary;                
weather that fades, beats down, or blemishes other summer flowers               
fazes the new nicotianas little. Dwarf nicotianas bloom early and               
continue blooming all summer long. Rosy pink, deep rose, white                  
and crimson colors are available.                                               
                                                                                
Despite its tiny seeds, nicotiana is easy to grow from seed if                  
sown in warm soil in the garden. Make a short "nursery row",                    
water it thoroughly and top with a shallow layer of potting soil.               
Do not cover the seeds; they need light to sprout. Sprinkle                     
daily with a fine mist. If necessary, transplant the seedlings                  
while they are small; they recover quickly.                                     
                                                                                
Nicotianas prefer full sun but will tolerate light shade. Plant                 
them behind brightly colored low growing flowers, around trees                  
or shrubs, or in medium sized containers.                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
Summer Blooming Perennials                                                      
                                                                                
Daylilies                                                                       
                                                                                
The bright orange daylily that blooms along roads and on rail                   
road banks is a showy summer perennial. Plant breeders have                     
"tamed" or "changed" the color, and your garden may have yellow,                
orange, maroon, or pinkish daylilies. Many nursery gardeners grow               
only daylilies. A single mature plant may have over 50 blossoms                 
and by choosing only four of the many varieities, you can have                  
blooms all summer.                                                              
                                                                                
Divide large daylily clumps as soon as they have finished                       
blooming. They like full sun or partial shade, but are content                  
with only four hours of sunlight a day. Some daylilies grown                    
only 2 feet tall; others show their flowers on 4 foot stems.                    
Select a variety whose height and color fit into your border                    
plan. Plant them in large clumps next to shrubbery or wherever                  
you need lots of green foliage. Daylilies grow in practically all               
types of soil, but bloom more if you mix organic matter or                      
compost into the soil when you plant them.                                      
                                                                                
Gaillardia                                                                      
                                                                                
Gaillardia, also known as blanketflower, has blooms of rich                     
yellow with red centers. The cut flowers keep well and can be                   
used for corsages.                                                              
                                                                                
Gaillardia is easily divided in the spring and thrives in any                   
soil except heavy clay. Since it blooms from June until after                   
killing frosts, it can be planted in front of iris for a nice                   
display. The many soft, hairy leaves tend to hide the iris after                
it has finished blooming. With a height of up to 3 feet, gaillar-               
dia can be planted in the middle of the flower border. A low-                   
growing form under 1' in height is now available.                               
                                                                                
Coreopsis                                                                       
                                                                                
Coreopsis is a popular yellow daisylike flower, sometimes called                
tickseed. Coreopsis blooms from June until frost. The leaves are                
narrow and light green, and the yellow flowers are from 2 to 3                  
inches across. The flowers are on long, graceful stems, making                  
them attractive for indoor use. Continual removal of the faded                  
flowers before seeds form assures a supply of coreopsis blooms                  
all summer.                                                                     
                                                                                
It is best to divide the old, crowded plants in early spring and                
to reset them about 3 feet apart. All coreopsis asks is plenty of               
sunlight and good soil.                                                         
                                                                                
Shasta Daisy                                                                    
                                                                                
Shasta daisy is a friendly neighbor for coreopsis. It, too, has                 
daisylike flowers and blooms freely, giving many blossoms that                  
fit into any summer flower arrangement. Shasta daisy is related                 
to fall mums; new varieties are double and look much like                       
chrysanthemums.                                                                 
                                                                                
Sun and good soil keep shasta daisies content. Divide crowded                   
plants in early spring and reset them near the middle of the                    
flower border since the plants grow to a height of about 2 feet.                
Bugs and diseases seldom bother shasta daisies.                                 
                                                                                
Phlox                                                                           
                                                                                
Phlox means flame in Greek. No doubt the bright red heads of                    
the standard variety are the reason for its name. Phlox is found                
in many perennial gardens, probably because the large clusters of               
showy flowers come in many colors, and cultivars vary in height                 
and time of bloom. A planting with colors graded from light                     
pink to dark red is most striking. The blooms can also be used                  
for cut flowers.                                                                
                                                                                
Phlox is best planted in groups in beds along driveways and paths               
and in front of shrubbery. They are hungry plants and need plenty               
of moisture and good rich soil. If set too close together, phlox                
may be attacked by mildew. Spray any mildewed plants with                       
fungicide. If necessary, divide phlox in September and reset the                
outer sections of the old plants.                                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
Trellis for Efficiency                                                          
                                                                                
One of the surest ways to increase the efficiency of your garden                
space is by growing highly productive vining crops and maintaini-               
ng them on a trellis.                                                           
                                                                                
Some vines climb by spiraling around supports and twining around                
any object small enough to embrace. Others have short tendrils                  
that cling to supports and, if trained occasionally, will grow                  
up alongside a post or within a cage. Others are so heavy and                   
have so few tendrils that they need frequent training; if left                  
to their own devices, they would lie about on the ground.                       
                                                                                
The climbing habits of a vine determine the kind of support                     
needed. Climbers or twiners include pole or runner beans,                       
asparagus beans and most of the flowering vines. Clingers                       
include tall varieties of green peas, gourds, and sweet peas. The               
heavy vining vegetables are cantaloupe, pumpkin, squash and                     
watermelon.                                                                     
                                                                                
The simplest and least expensive support for twining vines is a                 
6 to 7 foot high frame. Provide top and bottom stringers of                     
heavy guage wire or crossbars of lumber. Lace strong twine                      
vertically and train the tendrils as soon as they are long                      
enough to twine around two or three times. Only occasional                      
training will be needed to assist wayward tendrils the rest of                  
the season.                                                                     
                                                                                
Clinging vines can get by with shorter supports, five to six feet               
in height. Disposable netting stretched over a vertical frame                   
works very well and requires less maintenance than chicken wire.                
                                                                                
Semi-permanent trellises with sturdy posts and crossbars or wire                
stringers placed every foot or so are needed for heavy fruited                  
vines. Any wood used on semi-permanent trellisses should be                     
construction grade salt-treated lumber. Gardeners with untreated                
lumber on hand can treat their wood with copper napthenate, a                   
preservative that is not toxic to plants.                                       
                                                                                
Although trellising may be more work initially than growing the                 
bush varieities, the advantages make it ultimately worthwhile.                  
The yield per square foot is much higher than that of bush                      
varieties, sometimes as much as double. Many vining varieties                   
yield up to 4 weeks longer than bush varieties eliminating the                  
need to replant for fall harvest. The produce is easier to                      
harvest, especially for someone who finds kneeling and stooping a               
challange.                                                                      
                                                                                
Since foliage dries out faster with the good air circulation                    
around a trellised crop, disease is less of a problem. When                     
spraying or dusting does become necessary, it is easier to                      
thoroughly cover both sides of the leaf. And as a final benefit,                
you don't have to watch where you put your feet as you make your                
way through the garden.                                                         
Protecting Shade Trees from Construction Damage                                 
                                                                                
Nearly everyone recognizes the value of trees in providing                      
shade, ornament, and protection to building sites, city streets,                
and roadsides. All too frequently, however, the trees that make                 
a site attractive are damaged or killed during construction work                
by carelessness or inadequate protection. Frequently, it is                     
possible to repair such damage or to restore a tree's health,                   
but it is always better and usually more econimcal to prevent                   
damage than to correct it. Before beginning actual construction,                
it is worthwhile to give careful thought to the protection of                   
trees on the site.                                                              
                                                                                
A basic way to lessen construction damage to trees is to reduce                 
traffic as much as possible around the construction site. Talk                  
this over with your contractor before construction begins.                      
Establish definite traffic patterns and fence off trees, if                     
necessary. Locate areas where soil and building materials are                   
stockpiled well away from the drip line of the trees you want to                
save.                                                                           
                                                                                
When you install temporary or permanent driveways or traffic                    
lanes, cut nearby tree roots cleanly. Cleanly cut roots will                    
heal better and new roots will develop. Sometimes it is necessary               
for traffic to pass temporarily near trees. In this case build a                
bridge to keep the weight of heavy vehicles off the soil. Place                 
railroad ties on the ground and place steel plates over the ties                
for a temporary equipment bridge.                                               
                                                                                
Cut-and-fill damage can injure trees just as much as compaction.                
The symptoms of the two problems are almost identical: early leaf               
drop in fall, twig die-back, and leaf dwarfing. In most cases,                  
injury and death occurs more rapidly from cut-and-fill damage.                  
Fill that covers the root system of a tree will smother it by                   
cutting off the air supply and, sometimes, the moisture that the                
tree must have to survive.                                                      
                                                                                
If you want to place fill dirt over existing root systems you                   
will need to install 4 to 6 inch standard agricultural field                    
drain tile in a pattern with 8 radials extending from 1 1/2 -2'                 
from the trunk to beyond the drip line. Cover the tile with 6 to                
8 inches of coarse 1/2 to 3 inch stone. Use creek gravel, not                   
crushed limestone which is commonly used for road work. Crushed                 
limestone can harm trees by raising the soil pH. The fill                       
soil should be porous as possible or amended with sand or                       
organic materials. Sandy soil permits much more natural drainage                
of air and water than clay, which packs more easily. Two or                     
three inches of sandy soil can be filled over a root system                     
without harming the tree, while 2 to 3 inches of clay soil                      
filled over a root system may kill the tree.                                    
                                                                                
Removing soil from underneath a tree canopy can seriously damage                
roots and may even impare the stability of the tree. If you need                
to lower the soil level near trees leave the largest possible                   
area at the original soil level. Build a retaining wall around                  
the undisturbed soil or gradually taper the soil level between                  
the different heights. Plant the exposed soil in grass or                       
groundcover to prevent erosion.                                                 
                                                                                
There are no shortcuts to tree protection. You may save time and                
avoid mistakes if you obtain competent assistance before you make               
plans for construction operations or before you treat trees that                
have suffered from widespread construction damage. Sometimes it                 
may be desirable to consult the extension service first.                        
                                                                                
April 1986 Press Releases                                                       
                                                                                
Spinach                             30 lines                                    
Annual Vines in the Landscape       49 lines                                    
Nasturiums                          42 lines                                    
Trickle Irrigation                  78 lines                                    
Minimum Chemical Gardening          70 lines                                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
SPINACH                                                                         
                                                                                
Spinach is one of our most important crops for use as greens. It                
is an easy and quick vegetable to grow in the home garden during                
cool spring or fall weather.                                                    
                                                                                
Spinach is hardy and will withstand frost as low as 10 or 12                    
degrees below freezing. It may be planted a month or more before                
the average last frost date in your locality. Spinach is best as                
a spring or fall crop as seeds do not germinate well in warm                    
weather and plants bolt in the heat of summer.                                  
                                                                                
Spinach does not grow satisfactorily during continually wet                     
weather. If your soil is somewhat heavy, plant on low ridges to                 
provide extra drainage. Sow seeds 1/2" deep, 2-4" apart in rows                 
12-18" apart. In wide beds plant seed 4" apart in all directions.               
Crowding can stress plants and encourage early development of                   
flower stalks. Thin plants to about four inches apart in the row.               
                                                                                
Be sure to plant spinach on a fertile loam soil to ensure rapid                 
growth. The entire plant is cut when the desired size is reached                
in about 40 to 50 days after planting. Or outside leaves can be                 
harvested from the time the plant has 6-8 leaves until just                     
before the flower stalks develop.                                               
                                                                                
There are two common types of spinach: the savoyed or crumpled                  
leaf varieties used mostly for fresh market, and the smooth leaf                
varieties used commericially for canning. Long standing or slow                 
bolting strains should be planted as these go to seed slower than               
other types providing a longer harvest period.                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
ANNUAL VINES IN THE LANDSCAPE                                                   
                                                                                
Annual flowering vines are useful for many locations around the                 
home. They add new interest to the landscape when grown on a                    
fence, arbor or trellis. They grow rapidly to form an attractive                
mass of foliage and flowers.                                                    
                                                                                
Annual vines climb by twining around a support, or by clinging                  
with tendrils. They may be used to provide shade along a porch,                 
give new charm to a fence or add color and new appeal to the                    
side of the garage. Wooden lattice, woven wire fencing, or                      
string is all that is needed.                                                   
                                                                                
Morning glory is one of the most colorful vines you can plant.                  
Brilliant flowers are available in white and shades of blue                     
and red. The flowers are four to five inches across and are borne               
freely on vines which may grow to a height of 12 to 15 feet tall.               
Morning glories grow best on a well drained soil in a warm sunny                
location. Avoid rich soil and excessive fertilization which                     
produces vigorous vines with few flowers. Start seeds indoors in                
four inch pots, and plant outdoors two or three weeks after the                 
average last frost date in your area. Soaking the seeds in water                
overnight will speed germination. Be careful when choosing a                    
location for morning glory vines. The plants self sow readily and               
you will get volunteers in the following year.                                  
                                                                                
Vine-forming nasturtium cultivars grow four or five feet tall.                  
They bloom profusely, producing fragrant flowers in shades of red               
and yellow. The plants perform best in well drained soil of                     
average or low fertility. In rich soil, they will produce mostly                
leaves and very few flowers. The canary creeper is closely                      
related to the nasturtium. This tender vine grows to a height of                
about eight feet. Yellow flowers have two large fringed petals,                 
three smaller ones, and a green spur.                                           
                                                                                
Scarlet runner bean is an edible ornamental suitable for trellis-               
ing. Rosy scarlet flowers top long twining vines. The purplish                  
pods are ornamental and can be shelled for cooking purposes. A                  
white runner bean, `White Dutch' can be found in some seed                      
catalogs.                                                                       
                                                                                
Gourds have rather inconspicuous flowers, but produce colorful                  
fruit which are ornamental on the vine during late summer. The                  
fruit may be dried for fall and winter arrangements in the home.                
                                                                                
Avoid planting Japanese hops vines. These grow rapidly, reseed                  
prolifically, and may become a weed which is difficult to                       
control. Some people are sensitive to the prickly leaves of this                
plant, which may cause unsightly red welts.                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
NASTURTIUMS                                                                     
                                                                                
Nasturtiums originated in the high Andes mountains of Peru and                  
are therefore, an important native flower of the western hemi-                  
sphere. They need plenty of light to produce good flowers                       
in shades of yellow, orange, red and mahogany. Double flower                    
cultivars are available.                                                        
                                                                                
Nasturtiums grow rapidly and come into bloom in about six or                    
eight weeks from seed, quicker than most other annual flowers.                  
Plant them after the danger of frost is past. Sow nasturtium                    
seeds in soil of below average fertility to encourage slow growth               
and abundant flowering. Rich soils will produce lush green plants               
with few blooms. These excellent plants are almost pest free                    
except for occasion aphid infestation.                                          
                                                                                
A unique feature of nasturtiums is that some parts of this                      
ornamental plant are edible. The young flower buds and unripe                   
seeds have a pleasant pungent flavor. Young leaves have a peppery               
flavor and may be used in sandwiches and salads. The flowers may                
be used as an edible garnish.                                                   
                                                                                
The low bushy type nasturtiums grow to a height of one or two                   
feet. They are fine as edging plants or massed in the flower                    
border. The flowers are produced freely and are useful in small                 
and medium sized arrangements.                                                  
                                                                                
The climbing type nasturtium rapidly grows to a height of six to                
eight feet, and will quickly cover a fence or lattice. This vine                
climbs by twining around its support; therefore, you will need                  
to provide string, wire, or a trellis for climbing nasturtiums.                 
Climbing types may also be used to hang down from a window box                  
or trail along a bank or stone retaining wall. Vining varieties                 
prefer shade from the midday sun.                                               
                                                                                
The canary creeper is closely related to the nasturtium. When                   
planted in a semi-shaded location with a rich moist soil, this                  
vine will grow to a height of six to ten feet. The leaves are                   
somewhat similar to maple but more deeply notched. The pale                     
yellow flowers about one inch across display two large and                      
three small petals, and a green spur. From a distance they look                 
like small canary birds.                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
TRICKLE IRRIGATION                                                              
                                                                                
The greatest interest in trickle irrigation usually occurs about                
July when the novelty of moving sprinklers and hoses about the                  
garden has worn off and the impossiblity of watering and harvest-               
ing in the garden at the same time has made itself clear. But                   
now is the time to plant and install your trickle system while                  
you are planting the garden.                                                    
                                                                                
Trickle irrigation involves frequent, sometimes daily, applica-                 
tions of small amounts of water to replace water in the soil as                 
it is used by plants. This is done by using a system of "remit-                 
ters" or hoses to slowly apply water under low pressure to the                  
plant root zone.                                                                
                                                                                
There are a number of advantages to trickle irrigation over                     
traditional watering systems:                                                   
  considerably less water is required to meet the plant's needs                 
for optimum growth.                                                             
  since the plant is never put under water stress, its production               
is increased, sometimes by as much as 100%.                                     
  since only a fraction of the soil is wetted, only that directly               
around the plant roots, the garden is accessible at all times.                  
  since you are not watering pathways and non-production areas,                 
fewer weeds are encouraged to grow; thus there are less weeds to                
control.                                                                        
  the foliage will not be wetted by a trickle system so disease                 
problems will be reduced.                                                       
  water soluble fertilizer can be applied through the trickle                   
irrigation, making the job easier and reducing the chances of                   
fertilizer burn on foliage and stems from sidedressing.                         
  since water is applied slowly, it puts less of a strain on the                
water system in dry periods particularly if you are on a well or                
spring.                                                                         
  the trickle irrigation system can be automated by the use of a                
simple timer and solenoid valves so you don't have to worry                     
about watering if you're gone for a few days.                                   
                                                                                
There are some problems associated with trickle irrigation that                 
you should be aware of in considering a system:                                 
 clogging. The holes that allow water to seep from the hose to                  
the soil are extremely small. Particles in some water such as                   
fine sand, algae, and mineral salts that build up due to evapora-               
tion can clog these holes. Chemical treatments or filters may be                
required to correct these problems.                                             
 run-off. Fine textured soils such as clays may not absorb water                
fast enough to prevent puddling and run-off. Sandy soils and                    
medium textured soils are usually best for trickle irrigation.                  
 sloped terrain. Steep slopes in the garden may result in 50%                   
more water being applied at the lower end than the upper end of                 
the hose. Terracing or raised beds will help this.                              
                                                                                
There are a number of commercially available emitters with                      
different application rates. Complete kits to set systems for a                 
backyard garden (usually 30x50) can be purchased.                               
                                                                                
A system generally consisits of a main line to carry water from                 
the house to the garden. A 1/2" diameter black polyetheylene                    
pipe will work. At the end of this pipe at the garden site, a                   
flow regulating valve is inserted with plastic adaptors to                      
control the amount of water delivered. A 1gpm (gallon per                       
minute) flow-regulating valve will supply enough water in 1 hour                
for a 1000 sq.ft. garden.                                                       
                                                                                
A 1/2" black plastic pipe is then continued across the garden as                
a header. Commercial emitters are attached to the header with                   
appropriate adaptors to carry water directly to the base of the                 
plant. The emitters or hose is most effectively placed under the                
soil surface or beneath mulch material.                                         
                                                                                
The rate and frequency of application will depend on the type of                
system installed, total application will be approximately 57                    
gallons of water per day (400 gal/wk) for a 1000 sq. ft. garden                 
as compared to the recommended one inch or 625 gallons per weeek                
(89 gal/day) with the traditional watering system.                              
                                                                                
(Agents: For additional information see 442-031 Trickle Irri-                   
gation for Home Gardeners)                                                      
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
MINIMUM CHEMICAL GARDENING                                                      
                                                                                
Public concern over the use and misuse of pesticides has led                    
increasing numbers of home gardeners to seek means of "natural"                 
pest control. Although some people do not have the time or                      
knowledge to practice all the available alternative methods                     
for controlling pests, there are many cultural practices which                  
will help reduce losses.                                                        
                                                                                
Soil conditions affect pest populations. Maintain a slightly acid               
soil (around pH 6.5). Appropriate pH allows vegetable plants to                 
have acess to all the necessary soil nutrients and provides a                   
suitable environments for earthworms and microorganisms.                        
                                                                                
Follow recommended fertilizer practices. Supplement fertilizers                 
with organic material or compost to help assure that all trace                  
elements are available, as well as major nutrients. "Feed" the                  
soil, not just the plants; providing and appropriate environment                
for all soil life will result in healthier plants which are more                
resistant to pests and diseases.                                                
                                                                                
Rotate your garden plot, if you can. Use related crops in one                   
site only once every three or four years.                                       
                                                                                
Use interplantings as opposed to solid plantings of a crop. This                
can slow the spread of diseases and pests, giving you more time                 
to deal with them.                                                              
                                                                                
Thin young plants to a proper standard. Overcrowding causes weak                
growth and subsequent insect and disease problems.                              
                                                                                
Keep down weeds and grass. They often harbor pests and compete                  
for nutrients and water.                                                        
                                                                                
Use a mulch to reduce soil splash, which brings soil borne                      
diseases into contact with lower leaves.                                        
                                                                                
Water in the morning so that plants have time to dry before the                 
cool evening. Drip irrigation prevents foliage from getting wet                 
at all when watering. For  plants susceptible to fungus infec-                  
tions leave extra space between them to allow for good air flow;                
orient rows so that prevailing winds will help foliage dry                      
quickly after a rain or watering.                                               
                                                                                
Select disease-resistant varieties and plant crops that are                     
suited to the soil and climate. If you do plant vegetables or                   
fruits that are not normally grown in your area, do your best to                
provide necessary conditions. Use certified seed and plants                     
if available.                                                                   
                                                                                
Remove infected leaves from diseased plants as soon as you                      
observe them. Dispose of severely diseased plants before they                   
contaminate others. Clean up crop refuse as soon as you are                     
finished harvesting.                                                            
                                                                                
Time plantings in such a way that the majority of your crop will                
avoid the peak of insect infestations. Keep a record of the                     
dates and conditions under which disease and insect problems                    
occur.                                                                          
                                                                                
Take advantage of the biological control already taking place in                
your garden by encouraging natural predators. Learn to recognize                
the eggs and larvae of the beneficial insects and avoid harming                 
them.                                                                           
                                                                                
The most effective and most important of all practices is to                    
observe what is going on in the garden. Many serious disease or                 
insect problems can be halted or slowed down early by the                       
gardener who knows what to look for and regularly visits the                    
garden for the purpose of trouble-shooting.                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
March 1986 Press Releases                                                       
                                                                                
Strawberries                    70 lines                                        
Dahlia Culture                  66 lines                                        
Herb Gardening                  54 lines                                        
Grow Your Own Figs              67 lines                                        
Container Gardening             54 lines                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Strawberries                                                                    
                                                                                
Delicious strawberries can be grown in the home garden. Strawber-               
ries will produce more fruit in a small space than almost any                   
other berry crop. Twenty-five plants are enough for a row                       
approximately 40 feet long. They should produce 25 or more quarts               
of berries next spring if planted this year.                                    
                                                                                
Select several varieties to give early, midseason and late                      
harvest. Earlidawn is one of the best very early varieties as                   
its blossoms are somewhat tolerant to cold. Catskill and Pocahon-               
tas are fine for midseason. Surecrop and Redchief will supply                   
large crops of late fruit. Marlate is popular since it bears a                  
week or more after the other late varieties. Everbearing varieti-               
es produce fewer berries which are generally of lower quality,                  
but new varieties are beginning to show promise.                                
                                                                                
You will find strawberries are an easy crop to raise on fertile,                
well drained soil with a pH between 5.7 and 6.5. Fertilization                  
is seldom necessary on good soils supplied with organic matter.                 
Where a soil analysis indicates the need, about 1 lb. per 100' of               
row of a complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 or 10-6-4,                       
should be cultivated into the soil before planting.                             
                                                                                
Strawberries should be planted in the spring 3 or 4 weeks                       
before the average date of the last frost in your locality. Set                 
the plants from 12 to 24" apart, in rows 3 to 3 1/2 feet apart.                 
Set each plant so that the base of the central bud is at the                    
soil level. If set too low, soil may wash over the crown during                 
a rainstorm and smother the plant. If set too high, the top part                
of the roots will be exposed and the plant will make poor growth.               
Spread the roots out and firm the soil about them to eliminate                  
air pockets in the soil.                                                        
                                                                                
Pick off any flowers which develop during the first summer. The                 
plants need to use all of the food produced for the formation                   
of runners which will produce fruit next year. Even if you left                 
the flowers and secured a few berries this year, they would be                  
small and of poor quality.                                                      
                                                                                
Within a few weeks after planting, your strawberry plants will                  
start to develop runners. If allowed to grow without interference               
they will form a matted row about two feet wide. If you choose to               
allow your plants to grow in a matted row, begin with a wide                    
spacing -- 24" between plants.                                                  
                                                                                
Alternatively, you may wish to try the  hill system or the spaced               
row system of training. In the hill system of training, plants                  
are spaced 12" apart in the row but runners are removed as soon                 
as they start developing. Larger crowns with extra large berries                
develop with this system. Many homeowners prefer the hill system                
as plantings are easier to cultivate. When using the spaced row                 
system, plants are set 18 to 24 " apart. Runners are set 6 to 12"               
apart until the desired stand is established. All late forming                  
runners are removed as they appear. Spaced rows produce large,                  
uniform plants.                                                                 
                                                                                
Keep weeds and grass pulled from your strawberry bed. Perform                   
this job regularly, at least ever two weeks in new beds. Cultiva-               
tion must be shallow to prevent root injury. A light mulch (1-2")               
of straw, wood chips, or pine needles will help conserve soil                   
moisture and suppress weeds.                                                    
                                                                                
Your strawberries must continue to grow vigorously during the                   
summer and fall to develop large crowns with flower buds for the                
crop next summer. Apply water during dry periods. If the foliage                
becomes somewhat light green in late summer, broadcast 1 lb. of                 
10-10-10 per 100' row in late August or early September. Brush                  
the fertilizer off the plants to avoid foliage injury.                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Dahlia Culture                                                                  
                                                                                
The dahlia is an ideal flower for the home garden. It grows                     
vigorously and produces an abundance of beautiful flowers. The                  
blooms are excellent for arrangements, and for exhibition                       
purposes.                                                                       
                                                                                
Dahlias are now available in many sizes and shapes. Try some                    
of the new and attractive forms which have a wide range of                      
colors. Get catalogs from seedsmen who handle this plant, or                    
check with your local florist or garden center to be sure they                  
plan to have some of the new varieties this year.                               
                                                                                
Single dahlias look like large daisies with eight white or                      
colored petals. Collarette varieties are similar to the singles,                
but have an extra row of short petals around the center disc of                 
the flower. Orchid-flowered dahlias have very graceful form with                
eight petals curled into attractive pointed tubes.                              
                                                                                
New colors and forms are available in the double varieties. The                 
large decorative types have flowers which are eight to 12 inches                
across. Ball dahlias have compact round flowers from four                       
to six inches in diameter. Pompon types resemble small ball                     
dahlias, two inches or less in diameter. The cactus varieties                   
are very attractive and are particularly useful in flower                       
arrangements.                                                                   
                                                                                
Dahlias can be propagated by seed but plants from seed frequently               
do not come true to variety. Seeds which are produced in large                  
quantities by the single-flowered varieties are usually sold as                 
annual mixtures. Double-flowered varieties rarely produce                       
reliable seed. Tuberous root divisions give the showiest blooms.                
                                                                                
Dahlias grow best in a deep, fertile, well-drained soil in a                    
sunny location. Tubers should be spaced three or four feet apart                
if large exhibition flowers are desired. For small flowers in                   
beds or for cutting, plants may be about two feet apart. The                    
cluster of tuberous roots may be separated and planted at about                 
the time of the last killing frost. Root divisions should be                    
placed on their side about five inches deep. Cover with about two               
inches of soil and fill the remainder of the hole as the shoots                 
develop.                                                                        
                                                                                
For large blooms, allow only one stalk per root to develop.                     
Remove all small weak sprouts. When the shoot is about six inches               
tall, pinch back to about the third set of leaves to promote                    
branching. Only four main branches should be allowed to develop                 
on large flowering varieties. As the stems grow they should be                  
tied to a stake to prevent breakage. Disbudding may be practiced                
to secure large blooms for exhibition purposes.                                 
                                                                                
Seeds of the small varieties are sown early indoors in a light-w-               
eight medium. They will germinate in 10 to 15 days at 70 degrees                
F. Transplant young plants into individual pots after the third                 
true leaf develops. Plant in the garden after danger of frost has               
past.                                                                           
                                                                                
Adequate moisture must be provided to promote vigorous growth                   
and flower production in dahlias. A mulch of 1 or 2 inches of                   
peat moss or sawdust will help conserve soil moisture during dry                
periods. Eliminate all weeds which would compete with the plants.               
Fertilize at planting time with 1/2 cup per plant of a 5-10-5 or                
10-10-10 fertilizer dug into the soil. Faded flowers should be                  
removed to encourage continuous blooming. Gardeners should be on                
the lookout for damage by Japanese beetles; treat if necessary.                 
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Herb Gardening                                                                  
                                                                                
Herbs may be grown in the home garden to provide seasoning for                  
food, flavoring for cool drinks, and scents and decorations for                 
the home. Plants are quite free from damage by diseases and                     
insects. A few short rows in the vegetable or flower garden will                
provide an adequate supply for the average family.                              
                                                                                
A well-drained, fertile soil with pH 6.0 to 7.0 is best for                     
herbs. Apply two pounds of 10-10-10 or four pounds of 5-10-5                    
fertilizer per 100 square feet, and disc or rototill into the                   
soil when the garden is prepared for planting.                                  
                                                                                
For small seeded herbs, sow seeds directly into peat pots filled                
with seed-starting media about six weeks before the last frost                  
date. Large seeded varieties may also be started by this method,                
or sow seed directly into the garden about one week before the                  
average date of the last frost in your area. Sow the seeds thinly               
in a shallow furrow and cover with soil equal to about four times               
their largest diameter.                                                         
                                                                                
Control weeds during the growing season to eliminate their use                  
of water and nutrients which are needed by your herbs. A one inch               
mulch of shredded leaves or other loose organic material will                   
conserve soil moisture and help control annual weeds. Irrigation                
may be necessary for young plants during periods of drought.                    
                                                                                
Parsley and chives should probably be the first choices for the                 
herb garden. Short rows of each will produce an ample supply for                
culinary use during the summer. Plants of these two herbs can                   
also be grown in pots to provide succulent green sprigs through-                
out the year.                                                                   
                                                                                
Spearmint is an easily grown perennial which spreads by rhizomes                
underground. Mint seeds are very small and often have low                       
germination rates. It would be easier to acquire a start of                     
spearmint from a friend with an herb garden. Use caution in                     
where you plant any mint as they tend to be very invasive. Some                 
people prefer to grow them in containers that have been buried                  
partially in the ground.                                                        
                                                                                
Sage and thyme are perennials which will give repeated crops of                 
leaves for seasoning meats, dressing and soups. Fennel is                       
possibly more like a vegetable than an herb. Its bulb-like base                 
is used raw or cooked as a salad. Basil and borage planted for                  
their aromatic leaves may be included as attractive plants in                   
a flower border. Leaves of the nasturtiums give a peppery                       
flavor to a cold meat sandwich. All these herbs are easily                      
started from seed.                                                              
                                                                                
Many other types of herbs are available for gardeners who wish                  
to grow them. Consult your favorite garden catalog for descripti-               
ons and sources of seeds.                                                       
                                                                                
Grow Your Own Figs                                                              
                                                                                
The fig was one of the most important fruits for people of early                
civilizations which developed around the Mediterranean Sea. It                  
seems to have been introduced into Greece at lease eight centur-                
ies B.C. The fig is mentioned in numerous places in the Bible,                  
and was eulogized by many early Greek writers. At one period, the               
fruit was so highly prized in Greece, that its export was                       
forbidden by law.                                                               
                                                                                
Fig shrubs or trees grow to a height of 12 to 30 feet. A member                 
of the mulberry family, it is closely related to the common                     
indoor plant, the rubber plant. Figs are useful as ornamental and               
fruit bearing plants for the home garden. They can be planted                   
in protected locations in eastern Virginia and only the hardiest                
varieties should be used.In the areas where low temperatures                    
occur in winter, soil may be mounded up around the plants to a                  
height of 18 inches. If the top is killed back by cold, new                     
shoots will develop from the protected basal portion of the trunk               
and branches.                                                                   
                                                                                
There is considerable variation in hardiness of the common fig.                 
Some varieties are only slightly more resistant to cold than                    
orange trees. Mature trees of a few varieties will survive                      
winters in which the temperature may occasionally drop to nearly                
zero. Celeste is a popular variety. Its fruit is medium to                      
small sized, firm, juicy, sweet, and of excellent quality. Brown                
Turkey, although less vigorous than Celeste, is also an acceptab-               
le variety for home gardeners in eastern Virginia. The fruit is                 
medium to large and of good quality, though fruit is subject to                 
cracking in wet weather.                                                        
                                                                                
The fig tree is somewhat unusual in that it normally produces                   
two crops each year. The first crop is borne near the end of                    
branches which grew during the previous summer. The second crop                 
develops on new shoots of the current seasons growth.                           
                                                                                
Young trees one or two years old, and 18 to 36 inches tall,                     
should be selected for planting. Set the trees in early spring                  
about one month befor the average date of the last frost in your                
area.                                                                           
                                                                                
Figs grow best on a relatively heavy soil. Grass and weeds should               
be controlled for a distance of several feet around the trunk by                
cultivation or the use of mulch.Fertilizer or manure should be                  
used very sparingly around figs. If too much nitrogen is used,                  
the shoots will be more tender to the cold, and the fruits more                 
susceptible to splitting and souring.                                           
                                                                                
Figs should be harvested when they become soft, just before full                
ripeness. Firm, immature fruits do not develop their normal                     
flavor. Over-ripe figs may develop a sour odor because of                       
the fermentation of the juice.                                                  
                                                                                
Figs are more difficult to harvest than most other fruits.                      
Cotton gloves should be worn to protect hands from the irritating               
latex which exudues from the fruit and branching during the                     
picking operation. Figs require a rather strong twisting motion                 
to lossen the fruit from the stem.                                              
                                                                                
Figs may be eaten fresh, canned, or dried. The fruit is a                       
popular delicacy which may be used in salads, cakes or candies.                 
From a nutritional point of view, the fig is a beneficial                       
fruit because it contains useful quantities of protein, carbohyd-               
rates, calcium, phosphorus, and iron. It also supplies vitamins                 
A, B, and C.                                                                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Container Gardening                                                             
                                                                                
Even without a lot of land, home vegetable gardeners can produce                
a bountiful crop by container gardening. A window sill, patio,                  
balcony or doorstep can provide sufficient space for a productive               
container garden.                                                               
                                                                                
Almost any container can be used for plants as long as: 1) it is                
big enough to support the plants when they are fully grown; 2)                  
it will hold the potting media; and 3) it provides adequate                     
drainage. Examples are barrels, flower pots, cut off milk and                   
bleach jugs, recycled plastic coolers, window boxes and hanging                 
baskets.                                                                        
                                                                                
Containers should not be made of wood treated with creosote or                  
pentachlorophenol wood preservatives which may be toxic to plants               
and harmful to the gardener. Containers should have holes in                    
the bottom for drainage and be supported above the ground so that               
the plant roots do not stand in water. Most plants need containe-               
rs at least six inches deep.                                                    
                                                                                
A lightweight potting mix should be used in the containers. Most                
garden soil cannot be used because it is too heavy. The particles               
in garden soil are very small and become compacted in the contai-               
ner when it is watered. Media used in containers must be porous                 
because roots require both air and water.                                       
                                                                                
A packaged potting soil available at local garden centers                       
containing equlal parts of peat moss and perlite or vermiculite                 
is good to use because it is lightweight and sterile. Or gar-                   
deners can mix their own using this formula: for one bushel of                  
media, mix together half a bushel of #2 size vermiculite or                     
perlite; half a bushel of peat moss; five tablespoons ground                    
limestone; two tablespoons superphosphate; and eight tablespoons                
5-10-5 or 6-12-6 fertilizer.                                                    
                                                                                
Try dwarf and miniature varieties of vegetables in containers.                  
Or grow vegetables that occupy little space, such as carrots and                
radishes, and crops that continue to bear over a period of time,                
such as tomatoes and peppers.                                                   
                                                                                
The amount of sunlight that the garden spot receives may deter-                 
mine what crops can be grown. Generally root and leaf crops can                 
tolerate partial shade; but vegetables grown for their fruits,                  
such as tomatoes and peppers, need at least five hours of full                  
sunlight a day.                                                                 
                                                                                
Vegetables grown in containers can be attacked by the various                   
types of insects and diseases that are common to any vegetable                  
garden. Plants should be inspected periodically for the presence                
of foilage and fruit-feeding insects as well as the occurrence                  
of diseases. Plants grown in containers need the same care as                   
those in a garden and give the gardener a lot of the same                       
satisfactions.                                                                  
                                                                                
February 1986 Press Releases                                                    
                                                                                
Stems of Flowering Shrubs for Winter Decoration      52 lines                   
Pruning Summer Flowering Shrubs                      37 lines                   
Cabbage                                              53 lines                   
Planting Early Vegetables                            54 lines                   
Houseplants from Groceries                           37 lines                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Stems of Flowering Shrubs for Winter Decoration                                 
                                                                                
     The stems of many types of flowering shrubs and trees may be               
used for beautiful winter arrangements. Those brown stems on your               
forsythia and other spring flowering shrubs will burst into bloom               
if you bring them into the house, unless they bloomed extensively               
last fall as they did in many parts of the state. Branches which                
have been out in the cold all winter are ready to break dormancy.               
Indoors they will bloom in a relatively short time once exposed                 
to warm temperatures.                                                           
     Do not be afraid that you will damage your shrubs by the                   
removal of a few stems. The cutting of branches from vigorous                   
shrubs is a beneficial part of the pruning operation. This will                 
help to renew the growth, and keep the bush in a well-proportion-               
ed form.                                                                        
     When cutting stems for indoor use, select those with                       
well-spaced side branches. Make a slanting cut at the base and                  
place the stem in a container of cool, fresh water. Remove any                  
buds or leaves from the part which will be under the water.                     
Place the dormant branches in a warm, well-lighted room until the               
flowers appear.                                                                 
     Open, spreading growth produces the best cut stems. The best               
branches can be secured from shrubs located on the edge of an                   
open lawn area or in a wide mixed border planting. Shrubs in the                
foundation planting which are heavily pruned will not provide                   
attractive, well-shaped branches.                                               
     Many types of flowering shrubs and trees add interest                      
and beauty to your landscape and supply branches for decorative                 
use. If you don't have them already, plant some of the following                
kinds this spring:                                                              
     Forsythia is one of the most popular spring flowering shrubs               
with bright yellow flowers which appear before the foliage.                     
     Winter Honeysuckle is a medium-size spreading shrub which                  
produces fragrant white flowers in April. The berries are                       
attractive to birds.                                                            
     Fragrant Viburnum is a tall, erect shrub which has fragrant                
pink to white flowers in late March.                                            
     Japanese Andromeda is a tall, compact, bushy evergreen shrub               
with white, urn-shaped flowers in sprays resembling Lily-of-the--               
Valley in late April.                                                           
     Mountain Andromeda is a medium-size, compact, slow growing                 
shrub which produces white flowers in upright open panicles.                    
     Pussy Willow has large silky gray buds which add unique                    
interest to early spring flower arrangements.                                   
     Fruit trees of many types can provide branches for early                   
spring forcing. The flowers of cherry, pear and plum are white.                 
Apple and peach flowers have attractive pink tones.                             
     Red Maple produces interesting stems when the small flowers                
develop and the young leaves first appear.                                      
     Horse Chestnut branches have showy flowers and attractive                  
young foliage.                                                                  
     For especially attractive arrangements, try mixing some of                 
the branches from different plants.                                             
                                                                                
Pruning Summer Flowering Shrubs                                                 
                                                                                
     Before the first signs of spring arrive, there are some                    
chores that the home gardener should do. Pruning of summer                      
flowering shrubs is one of those tasks.                                         
     The blooms of summer flowering shrubs develop on new wood;                 
therefore, in early spring, before the new growth begins, these                 
shrubs should be pruned. Here are suggestions on how to prune                   
some of the common summer flowering shrubs.                                     
                                                                                
Butterflybush--Cut the stems to the ground every year to promote                
new growth and produce large flower stalks.                                     
                                                                                
Crepe myrtle--Prune to control the shape and produce flowers. If                
this plant isn't pruned, it will produce small flowers or no                    
flowers at all. Heavy pruning is needed for vivid flower dis-                   
plays.                                                                          
                                                                                
Hydrangea--Prune back to a few buds to promote new growth. Cut                  
out crowded stems as necessary.                                                 
                                                                                
Magnolia--Cut back the tips of new shoots when necessary to shape               
the plant. Do not prune the branches except when a poorly shaped                
or damaged plant must be reshaped.                                              
                                                                                
Hypericum St. Johnswort--Thin crowded branches and cut other                    
branches back, leaving about two buds on each branch.                           
                                                                                
Spirea--Some common summer flowering types are Anthony Waterer,                 
Bumalda, Japanese and Billiard. Remove crowded stems as necessary               
and cut other stems back to a few buds. Remove the seed pods when               
they form.                                                                      
                                                                                
Sumac--The common types are staghorn and smooth sumac. Prune the                
stems to the grounds to promote new growth. Sumac can be trained                
to grow as a tree when only one stem is allowed to grow.                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Cabbage                                                                         
                                                                                
     Remember cabbage when you start planning your spring                       
garden. This crop grows best during cool, humid weather. Well-                  
hardened plants will survive temperatures as low as 20 degrees                  
Fahrenheit.                                                                     
     You need not worry much about frost with this crop. Cabbage                
plants may safely be set in your garden about a month before the                
average date of the last frost in your area. Sow seeds indoors                  
about six or eight weeks earlier, to produce the young plants you               
need.                                                                           
     The edible part of cabbage is an enormous terminal bud,                    
composed of large leaves in a compact head. It is rich in                       
vitamins C and A, and quite low in calories. Cabbage is an                      
excellent food because it provides roughage to aid digestion, and               
in the raw form, it is a good cleanser for teeth and gums.                      
     Consider the different types of cabbage when you order your                
seeds. Popular green varieties are available for early, midseason               
and late maturity. Also try the red or purple types which will                  
add new interest when used for cole slaw or salad.                              
     Are you familar with the savoy cabbage? This type has                      
puckered or wrinkled leaves. The head does not become as hard as                
the green or red types. Savoy cabbage has a pleasant mild                       
flavor when served raw or cooked.                                               
     In selecting varieties of cabbage, look for those which are                
resistant to yellows. This fungus disease lives over winter in                  
the soil and is easy to control if you rotate crops and select                  
resistant varieties.                                                            
     Six to a dozen plants should give a family all the early                   
cabbage they need. Follow this with successive plantings of seeds               
to provide a continuous supply during the summer and fall.                      
     Promote vigorous growth with adequate water, and mulch to                  
conserve soil moisture. Do not allow the soil to become dry when                
the plants approach maturity. If you apply water, or have a good                
rainstorm after a drought, your cabbage heads may split open. To                
reduce splitting cut the roots on one side of the plant with a                  
sharp spade.                                                                    
     Cabbages may be harvested for home use over a period of                    
several weeks. Trim them carefully, leaving as many green leaves                
as possible. These outer leaves are the most nutritious.                        
     Cabbage may be served in many ways to tempt the appetite. In               
the raw form it is delicious as cole slaw, or when mixed with                   
apples and raisins as a combination salad. As a cooked vegetable,               
cabbage may be boiled, stuffed, or used in soup. It is a particu-               
larly tasty dish when combined with cheese in a casserole.                      
     One type of cabbage which may not be successful if planted                 
now is the Chinese cabbage. If sown in the spring for a summer                  
crop, the temperature may get too high before a good head is                    
formed and the plants may go to seed rather than make good heads.               
Chinese cabbage should be planted in midsummer about 90 days                    
before the average first fall frost date. It will then form crisp               
firm heads which may be used as coleslaw, salad, or boiled.                     
                                                                                
Planting Early Crops                                                            
                                                                                
     It is time to plant early vegetables in your garden. You may               
sow the hardy types about a month before the average last frost                 
date in your area. It is late already in some parts of Virginia.                
     To promote vigorous growth, apply a liberal application of                 
5-10-5 fertilizer when you plow your garden. Broadcast about four               
pounds per 100 square feet and disc it into the top five inches                 
of soil before planting.                                                        
     Do not cover seeds too deeply in your early plantings. The                 
soil is cool and moist and the seeds need only a light covering.                
A depth of two or three times their longest dimension is plenty.                
     Lettuce is one of the best early crops. Try Salad Bowl if                  
you have not selected it before. It is a leaf lettuce which grows               
very well even after warm weather arrives. Great Lakes is a                     
dependable lettuce of the solid, crisp-head type in areas where                 
spring is long and cool. However in much of Virginia it is very                 
difficult to get a good yield on crisp-head types of lettuse due                
to the heat. If you have had trouble producing a headed lettuse,                
you should also include a few plants of Buttercrunch. This is an                
All America Selection of the Bibb type which has thick, tender,                 
delicious quality in  a loose head. The Cos or Romaine type                     
lettuce are also quite heat tolerant and produce an attractive                  
elongated head.                                                                 
     Include a few radishes in your early garden, but not too                   
many. They will be ready to eat in about four weeks, but will                   
become quite sharp in flavor as soon as warm weather arrives.                   
     Secure some onion sets or small plants from your local                     
garden center of seed source. They will grow rapidly and soon be                
ready for use as early green onions. Silverskin is a mild white                 
variety which is ideal for this purpose.                                        
     Nothing surpasses the delicious sweet flavor of early green                
peas, fresh from the garden. Try Alaska or Greater Progress. All                
of these will be ready to pick in about 60 days. Wando matures                  
about a week later but will tolerate warm weather better than                   
most other peas. Also consider the edible-podded peas for an                    
early crop. The snow peas can be sown at the same time as other                 
green peas; however, the snap peas such as Sugar Snap will                      
germinate better if the soil has warmed slightly.                               
     For early greens, plant mustard. Tendergreen and Southern                  
Giant Curled varieties will be ready to harvest in five or six                  
weeks. Kale is another crop for greens which should be in your                  
early garden. Dwarf Blue Curled Vates is ready to harvest in                    
about eight weeks.                                                              
     Broccoli is an easy crop for the home garden. You will need                
to spray or dust a few times to control the green cabbage worms.                
Premium Crop is fine for the early crop because it tolerates                    
heat. Be sure to include early cabbage in the spring garden.                    
Plant yellows resistant varieties such as Stonehead. You will be                
able to harvest either broccoli, or cabbage about eight or nine                 
weeks after you set the plants in your garden.                                  
     For the latest suggestions on varieties, contact the                       
Extension Agent in your county for a copy of publication 426-480                
"Vegetables Recommended for Virginia."                                          
                                                                                
Houseplants from Groceries                                                      
                                                                                
     When you bring home produce from the grocery, you may very                 
well have purchased items which may be used to produce house-                   
plants. You and your children can gain some horticultural                       
knowledge by growing fruit and vegetable plants from kitchen                    
wastes.                                                                         
     Carrots produce graceful fern-like leaves. To start a carrot               
plant, cut a 1/2 inch section from the top of a carrot. Plant it                
in moist sand with the uppermost part exposed. Small leaves will                
soon appear if the carrot start is kept moist.                                  
     Pineapples can be started somewhat like carrots. Cut off                   
the part containing the top green leaves with one inch of solid                 
fruit attached. Place the basal part which includes the fruit                   
into water leaving the leaves exposed to the air. When roots                    
develop, transplant to a pot with well-drained potting soil.                    
Cover the plant with a plastic bag for three weeks to help it                   
acclimate to its new environment.                                               
     Sweet potatoes produce viny stems somewhat similar to                      
philodendron. Develop this plant by putting a sweet potato root                 
in a container of water leaving the top 1/3 exposed to the air.                 
The vines which grow can be trained on a stake or small trellis.                
     Try planting grapefruit, orange, lemon, or tangerine seeds.                
As soon as the seeds are removed from the fruit, plant them                     
in a soil mixture which contains 50% sphagnum peat moss. Keep                   
these seeds damp, warm, and in a bright but indirect light and                  
watch for plants to grow.                                                       
     Avocado pits are often rooted for indoor plants. After                     
cleaning off the pit, insert three or four toothpicks 1/2 inch                  
into the pit at its midpoint. Space the toothpicks evenly around                
the seed since they will support the the pit in a container of                  
water. Balance the pit over a glass of water, placing the                       
wider of the ends in the water. If kept in a warm, well-lit                     
environment a root will appear in 3-4 weeks followed by leaves.                 
After four leaves are present, transplant to a deep pot contain-                
ing potting media.                                                              
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
January Press Releases                                                          
                                                                                
Assessing the Winter Landscape                     52 lines                     
Container Media                                    52 lines                     
Seed Storage                                       51 lines                     
Coping with the Catalog                            16 lines                     
Reading the Seed Packet                            56 lines                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
ASSESSING THE WINTER LANDSCAPE                                                  
                                                                                
     Winter is an "in-between" time for gardeners. It is the                    
time to take stock of last year's landscape and plan improvements               
for the next year. As you consider changes in your landscape,                   
take time to study the winter view from your favorite window and                
consider ways to enhance it.                                                    
     Three of the most prominent features of the winter landscape               
are the silhouettes of the trees and shrubs, the colors of the                  
bark, and the red and orange fruit on many species.                             
     The leafless silhouettes of trees and shrubs are individual                
to each species and can be used effectively to improve your                     
winter landscape. The convoluted branches of the hazel cultivar                 
"contorta" make an interesting pattern against a fence, while                   
the horizontal branches of the flowering dogwood can add an                     
oriental style to your garden. (A cultivar is a variety which                   
has evolved through horticultural efforts, rather than through                  
natural means.)                                                                 
     The bark of trees and shrubs now attracts attention. The                   
brightest reds and corals of the winter twigs are found among                   
the species of shrub dogwoods, particularly the cultivar                        
"sibirica."  Yellow colors can be found on the shrub dogwood                    
cultivar "flaviramea" and the kerria cultivar "aureo-vittata."                  
     Athea varieties of kerria are noted for their green winter                 
twigs, along with the trifoliate orange and the different types                 
of brown. However, the most striking of the barks is the white                  
of the trunks on branches of the white bush and sycamore. The                   
pink tones of a winter sunset on the white bark of sycamore                     
almost make me forget what a nuisance this tree can be the rest                 
of the year.                                                                    
     For red fruit throughout much of the winter, two good                      
selections are the autumn olive and the possum haw. The autumn                  
olive has silvery red fruit that 25 species of birds enjoy. The                 
possum haw is heavily covered with large red fruit about the                    
size of cherries.                                                               
     Many other trees and shrubs brighten the winter landscape                  
with their fruit. Washington hawthorn has an abundance of shiny                 
red corymbs of fruit. The Lalandei firethorn is one of the                      
hardiest and showiest of the firethorns, with scarlet red fruit                 
covering the shrub well into January.                                           
     If you bundle up against the cold and go outside, you can                  
explore more closely your winter landscape. Examine closely the                 
twigs around you to be awed by nature's complex protection of                   
life at rest. Each dormant bud that will become next year's                     
leaf or flower is sheltered by bud scales that protect it from                  
dry air which would wither it during the cold winter months.                    
     Look also at the bark. Discover the "wings" on the sweet                   
gum and the winged euonymus. Notice that the bark on the birch                  
and sycamore is not smooth but is exfoliating; that is, shedding                
off in long strips or flaking off in irregular patches.                         
     Visit arboreta or nurseries during this "in-between" season                
and gather more ideas for a year-round landscape.                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
CONTAINER MEDIA                                                                 
                                                                                
     Did you ever consider why we have different mixtures of                    
soil and other materials for use in growing and propagating                     
house plants?  Why not use good old garden soil instead of                      
bothering with all these special combinations?                                  
     The big problem with indoor plants is soil aeration, which                 
is related to drainage. Most garden soils contain so much fine                  
silt or clay that they pack down and provide poor aeration and                  
drainage when used in pots. To correct this problem you need to                 
mix sand and peat moss with your soil.                                          
     A good general purpose mixture for house plants, or the                    
seedlings you will raise next spring, is one part each of soil,                 
shredded peat moss, and coarse sand. Add one-half part of dried                 
manure to improve the nutritional level.                                        
     Any mixture which contains soil should be sterilized to                    
kill insects, nematodes, disease organisms, and weed seeds. This                
may be accomplished by baking in the oven at 180 degrees for 30                 
minutes or by using a soil fumigant following the instruc-                      
tions on the package.                                                           
     You can avoid the need for sterilization by using a peat                   
moss and vermiculite mixture. Mix equal parts of shredded peat                  
moss and No. 2 horticultural grade vermiculite. Add a cupful of                 
ground limestone and a cupful of 5-10-5 fertilizer per bushel.                  
This mixture is excellent for growing seedling plants. You may                  
provide a more enduring nutrient supply for potted plants by                    
adding six quarts of dried manure per bushel of the above                       
mixture. This mixture may be used without sterilization.                        
     An now, let's discuss the mixtures you need for plant                      
propagation by cuttings. This is a quite different situation,                   
because the cuttings need moisture from a well aerated medium,                  
but practically no nutrients. You need sand, peat moss, vermicu-                
lite or perlite as a propagating medium.                                        
     You should consider the characteristics of these materials                 
to appreciate why they are so useful for the gardener. Sand is                  
excellent because of its good aeration and lack of nutrients,                   
but it has very low water holding capacity. The addition of                     
peat moss or vermiculite will provide the needed water retention.               
     Peat moss is partially decomposed swamp vegetation. It has                 
a high water holding capacity and usually contains one to three                 
percent nitrogen. It may be acid or alkaline, depending on the                  
source. Peat is useful as a mulch or as a medium for rooting                    
cuttings when mixed with sand, vermiculite, or perlite.                         
     Vermiculite is a heat expanded mica which is very light in                 
weight and has a high water holding capacity. It is an excellent                
material for rooting cuttings when mixed with sand or peat moss.                
When seeds are planted in heavy soils, they may be covered with                 
vermiculite to promote improved germination and easy emergence.                 
     Perlite is a heat expanded volcanic lava. The small sharp                  
particles are very light because of small trapped air pockets. It               
is useful as a propagation media when mixed with peat moss or                   
vermiculite.                                                                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
SEED STORAGE                                                                    
                                                                                
     Are those seeds any good which you had left over after                     
planting your garden last spring?  Most packets now cost 25                     
cents or more, compared to a dime only a few years ago. So, it                  
would be a nice saving if you could plant this spring those                     
which you did not use last year.                                                
     Many kinds of garden seeds remain viable for several years.                
Therefore, check your supply carefully before you make out your                 
new order.                                                                      
     The germination percentage you secure from old seeds                       
depends in part on the conditions under which they are stored.                  
The best way to keep most seeds from year to year is in a tight                 
jar in your home refrigerator. We appreciate that such space                    
usually is not available.                                                       
     The second choice is to store your seeds in a tight con-                   
tainer in a cool basement. Seeds may lose viability quite                       
rapidly in the warm temperatures of the average home.                           
     In general, garden seeds may be divided into three groups,                 
in terms of their longevity. Short life span seeds should give                  
satisfactory germination for one or two years. Medium life span                 
seeds usually will remain viable for three or four years. Long                  
life seeds should grow after storage of five to six years and                   
sometimes longer.                                                               
     Accurate information on the longevity of flower seeds is                   
hard to find. Based on limited observations, the following                      
should be considered as short ife span seeds:  astor, candytuft,                
cleome, columbine, honesty, kochia, phlox, salvia, strawflower,                 
and vinca.                                                                      
     Some of the more common flowers with long life seeds are                   
alyssum, calendula, centaurea, coreopsis, cosmos, marigold,                     
nasturtium, nigella, petunia, salpiglossis, scabiosa,                           
schizanthus, sweet pea, verbena, viola, and zinnia.                             
     Most vegetable seeds have rather long life, but there are a                
few important exceptions. For example, corn, leek, onion, and                   
parsnip seeds have short life spans. Those with medium longevity                
include beans, beet, carrot, Swiss chard, mustard, pepper,                      
pumpkin, and tomato. The seeds of other commonly grown vege-                    
tables will usually grow quite well even when five or more years                
old.                                                                            
     You may test the germination of your seeds by placing a                    
definite number on moist blotter paper in a dish or pan covered                 
with plastic or glass to maintain a high humidity. Place your                   
seed containers in a warm location and count those which germi-                 
nate in 10 to 14 days. From these figures you can easily deter-                 
mine the percentage germination and adjust the thickenss of                     
planting accordingly.                                                           
     Plant your old seeds more thickly than you do fresh ones. If               
the seeds are at or beyond the above suggested ages, plant                      
them about twice as thick as usual. Scatter them in a band in                   
the row rather than in a narrow dense line.                                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
COPING WITH THE CATALOG                                                         
                                                                                
     If you are like me, you can easily be overwhelmed by the                   
beautiful pictures in the catalog.                                              
     Best defense is a good plan. Look and dream, write down                    
what looks good, check it against last year's notes (what did                   
well) and extension agent's recommendations.                                    
     Test last year's seed for germination by placing 10-12                     
seeds between moist blotter or paper towel in warm location. The                
seed should germinate in 5-7 days if it's still good.                           
     Decide how much space you can really take care of.                         
     Then start making a list and refining your plan. Look for                  
disease resistance and drought resistance.                                      
     Only experiment with a few new things each year.                           
     Make your "final" list then talk to friends and neighbors.                 
Maybe you can share some seed.                                                  
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
READING THE SEED PACKET                                                         
                                                                                
     To the beginning gardener, reading the packets in a seed                   
display may seem a bit like reading a horticultural textbook.                   
Most seed packets contain a wealth of information if you know                   
what to look for and understand the terminology.                                
     A gardener who picks up a packet of tomato seeds may be                    
confronted with a description like "Small Fry VFN Hybrid A.A.S."                
It is important that the gardener decipher this code if he is to                
determine if that variety is the one to use.                                    
     Each variety is unique from the others that grow the same                  
crop. And often, one variety will be far more satisfactory for                  
your purposes than another. "Small Fry VFN Hybrid A.A.S." is a                  
determinate variety (with stems growing a predetermined length)                 
of tomato well-suited to certain culture, producing small, one-                 
inch diameter fruit. "Sweet 100 Hybrid" produces a smaller                      
fruit on a vigorous indeterminate vine that requires staking.                   
"Better Boy VFN Hybrid" may produce tomatoes up to 1 1/2 pounds                 
on large vines. So, the choice is yours.                                        
     Notice also the letters and words following the variety                    
name. Many of today's seeds are hybrids. This is a plant result-                
ing from crossing two plants of the same type to produce a                      
plant with a desired characteristic for one or more traits, such                
as height, fruit size, and flower color.                                        
     Hybrids usually are more vigorous, uniform in growth and                   
productive than non-hybrids. Also, they do not come true from                   
seed in the next generation. That is, the plants resulting from                 
the seed that you buy will have known characteristics but if you                
try to save seed from those fruits and raise additional plants,                 
they will be entirely different.                                                
     The letters VFN are codes to represent disease resistance.                 
(V = verticillium wilt, F = fusarium wilt, N = nematodes.)                      
Tomato varieties coded with these letters are less susceptible                  
to those specific problems. Always look for varieties which are                 
resistant to diseases. This will reduce your work and increase                  
your yield in the garden.                                                       
     The letters A.A.S. indicate that the variety was awarded a                 
medal for outstanding performance in variety trials nationwide                  
by the All-America Selections Committee. Although some varieties                
marked A.A.S. may not do well in Virginia, most will perform                    
superiorly.                                                                     
     Another item to watch for on the seed packet is the date. It               
should be clearly stated that the seed was packed for the                       
current growing season. Old seeds cannot be guaranteed to have                  
as high a germination rate, particularly if they were stored                    
improperly.                                                                     
     All packets will give some indication of the quantity of                   
content. The weight is far less useful than the number of seeds                 
or the amount of garden space that can be planted from that                     
packet. Information on timing the planting and spacing after                    
thinning or even drawings to help you identify the seedling when                
removing weeds add to the value of the packet.                                  
     After buying seeds, try storing them in a small file labeled               
with the date to plant them. After labeling the plants in the                   
garden with variety and date planted, return the empty packet to                
the file as a handy reference.                                                  
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
July 1986 The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                    
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan, Horticulture                     
Extension Technician, working with Diane Relf, Extension Special-               
ist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener Question Box has                   
been developed for agent use in preparing radio and newspaper                   
features.                                                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
Summer Pruning Black Raspberries                     14 lines                   
Foliar Fertilization                                 28 lines                   
Succession Planting                                  21 lines                   
Water Conservation in the Garden                     46 lines                   
Temperature and Its Affect on Garden Plants          48 lines                   
Surfactants                                          73 lines                   
Potato 'Fruits'                                      14 lines                   
Tomato - Fruit or Vegetable                          42 lines                   
                                                                                
                                                                                
I have been watching a neighbor pruning the tops of her black                   
raspberries. I have never pruned my berry bushes like this. Is                  
it something new I should be doing?                                             
                                                                                
Tip pruning, also called summer topping, is practiced in July                   
and early August. It encourages branching in some brambles.                     
Black raspberries can be summer topped when the new shoots are                  
about 24" high; purple raspberries, when about 30" high. Red                    
raspberries should not be summer topped.                                        
                                                                                
Summer topping consists of removing the top three to four inches                
of the new shoots by snapping them off with the fingers or                      
cutting them with shears or a knife. Where trained to supports,                 
let new shoots grow six to eight inches taller before topping.                  
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
What can you tell me about the fertilizers you are supposed                     
to spray on your plants?                                                        
                                                                                
Under normal growing conditions, plants absorb most nutrients                   
from the soil. However, some nutrients can also be absorbed by                  
the leaves if a dilute solution is sprayed on the leaves. Care                  
must be taken that the concentration of nutrients is not too high               
or the leaf will be injured.                                                    
                                                                                
Foliar feeding can be useful when: 1) insufficient fertilizer                   
was used before planting; 2) a quick growth response is wanted;                 
3) micronutrients (such as iron or zinc) are unavailable to the                 
plant; or 4) the soil is too cold for the plants to extract or                  
use the fertilizer applied to the soil. Foliar applied nutrients                
are absorbed and used by the plant quite rapidly. Absorption                    
begins within minutes after application and, with most nutrients,               
it is completed within 1 to 2 days.                                             
                                                                                
Foliar nutrition can be a supplement to soil nutrition at a                     
critical time for the plant, but not a substitute. At transplant-               
ing time, an application of phosphorus spray will help in the                   
establishment of the young plant in cold soils. For perennial                   
plants, early spring growth is usually limited by cold soil, even               
when the air is warm. Under such conditions, soil microorganisms                
are not active enough to convert nutrients into forms available                 
for roots to absorb; yet, if the nutrients were available, the                  
plants could grow. A nutrient spray to the foliage will provide                 
the needed nutrients immediately to the plants, allowing them to                
begin growth.                                                                   
                                                                                
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I have a very small area for gardening. Now that some crops like                
peas and radishes are over, can I replant these areas in other                  
vegetables?                                                                     
                                                                                
Succession planting is an excellent way to make the most of a                   
intensive garden. To obtain a succession of crops, plant some-                  
thing new in the spots vacated by spent plants - corn after                     
peas is an example of succession planting.                                      
                                                                                
Planting a spring, summer, and fall garden is form of succession                
planting. Cool season crops (broccoli, lettuce, peas) may be                    
followed by warm season crops (beans, tomatoes, peppers),                       
and, where possible, these may be followed by more cool-season                  
plants, or even a winter cover crop.                                            
                                                                                
Starting seeds indoors for transplanting is an important aspect                 
of this type of gardening. To get the most from your garden plot,               
a new crop should be ready to take the place of the crop being                  
removed. Several weeks may be gained by having 6" transplants                   
ready to go into the vacated area. Don't forget to recondition                  
the soil for the new plants.                                                    
                                                                                
 ----------                                                                     
                                                                                
It's been too dry for the garden plants but water is expen-                     
sive. I have already mulched. What else can I do to conserve                    
moisture for my plants?                                                         
                                                                                
Shading and the use of windbreaks are other moisture-conserving                 
techniques you should try. Plants that wilt in very sunny areas                 
can benefit from partial shade during the afternoon in summer.                  
Small plants, in particular, should be protected.                               
                                                                                
Air moving across a plant carries away the moisture on the leaf                 
surfaces, causing more water to be needed by the plant. In very                 
windy areas the roots often cannot keep up with leaf demands, and               
plants wilt. Temporary or permanent windbreaks can help tremen-                 
dously.                                                                         
                                                                                
In areas prone to drought, remember to look for drought-resistant               
varieties when buying plants or seeds.                                          
                                                                                
During those times when cultural practices simply aren't enough,                
when rainfall is sparse and the sun is hot, watering can benefit                
your garden with higher yields, or may save the garden altogether               
in severe drought years. By knowing the critical watering                       
periods for specific vegetables, you can reduce the amount of                   
water you add. In general, water is most needed: 1) during the                  
first weeks of plant development; 2) immediately after trans-                   
planting; and 3) during the development of storage organs which                 
are eaten. Specifically, make sure lettuce and cole crops have                  
ample water during head development. Beans and peas need water                  
when the pods are filling. The critical watering periods for                    
cucumbers, squashes, melons, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers are                
during flowering and while the fruits develop. Corn benefits from               
from moisture when silking and tasseling, and at ear development.               
                                                                                
If water supplies are short, you may want to consider using                     
'gray water', water recycled from household uses on your garden.                
A few rules should be observed:                                                 
    1. Apply gray water to the soil, not to plant leaves.                       
    2. If water is used from the bathtub or washing machine,                    
use mild, biodegradable soaps. Omit softeners and bleaches.                     
Never use borax-containing products such as washing soda, in                    
water intended for the garden because of the danger of boron                    
toxicity.                                                                       
    3. It is preferable not to use kitchen waste water that                     
contains grease, harsh cleaners or non-biodegradable detergents.                
    4. Never allow any water which has run through the toilet                   
to enter a gray water irrigation system. Organisms from human                   
wastes can contaminate food products.                                           
                                                                                
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How does temperature effect growth of vegetables and flowers?                   
                                                                                
Temperature affects the productivity and growth of a plant,                     
depending upon whether the plant is a warm or cool season                       
crop. If temperatures are high and day length is long, cool                     
season crops such as spinach will flower. Temperatures that are                 
too low for a warm season crop such as tomato will prevent fruit                
set. Adverse temperatures also cause stunted growth and poor                    
quality vegetable production; for example, bitterness in lettuce                
is caused by high temperatures.                                                 
                                                                                
Sometimes temperatures are used in connection with daylength to                 
manipulate the flowering of plants. Chrysanthemums will flower                  
for a longer period of time if daylight temperatures are 59                     
degrees F.                                                                      
                                                                                
Temperatures alone also influence flowering. Daffodils are forced               
to flower by putting the bulbs in cold storage in October at 35                 
to 40 degrees F. Cold temperatures allow bulbs to mature. The                   
bulbs are transferred to the greenhouse in midwinter where growth               
begins. The flowers are then ready for cutting in 3 to 4 weeks.                 
                                                                                
Thermoperiod refers to a daily temperature change. Plants respond               
to and produce maximum growth when exposed to a day temperature                 
that is about 10 to 15 degrees higher than a night temperature.                 
This allows the plant to photosynthesize (build up nutrients) and               
respire (break down) during an optimum daytime temperature and to               
curtail the rate of respiration during a cooler night. Tempera-                 
tures higher than needed cause increased respiration, sometimes                 
above the rate of photosynthesis. This means that the products of               
photosynthesis are being more rapidly used than they are being                  
produced. For growth to occur, photosynthesis must be greater                   
than respiration.                                                               
                                                                                
Too low temperatures can  produce poor growth. Photosynthesis is                
slowed down at low temperatures. Since photosynthesis is slowed,                
growth is slowed, and this results in lower yields. Not all                     
plants grow best under the same temperature range. For example,                 
snapdragons grow best at nighttime temperatures of 55 degrees F                 
and poinsettias at 62 degrees F. Florist cyclamen does very well                
under very cool conditions while many bedding plants prefer a                   
higher temperature.                                                             
                                                                                
However, in some cases, a certain number of days of low tempera-                
ture are needed by plants in order to grow properly. This is true               
of crops growing in cold regions of the country. Peaches are a                  
prime example: most varieties require 700 to 1,000 hours below 45               
degrees F but above 32 degrees F before they break their rest                   
period and begin growth. Lilies need 6 weeks of temperatures at                 
33 degrees F before blooming.                                                   
                                                                                
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Some pesticide labels mention that a surfactant should be added                 
when mixing them. What is this and what is its purpose?                         
                                                                                
When added to a pesticide, a surfactant reduces the surface                     
tension between two unlike materials, such as a spray film and a                
solid surface. For example, by adding a surfactant to a sprayer,                
oil and water will mix and can be sprayed on plant surfaces. With               
increasing emphasis on safe application of pesticides, such                     
factors as droplet size, spray pattern, and pesticide drift have                
focused more attention on surfactants to give ideal coverage                    
for pesticides.                                                                 
                                                                                
Surfactants include: activators, compatibility agents, defloccu-                
lators, detergents, dispersants, emulsifiers, foam and drift                    
suppressants, and spreading, sticking and wetting agents. These                 
materials are added to a spray mix to help keep the pesticide                   
in suspension; improve cohesiveness and dispersion of the spray;                
and increase the wetting (or coverage) of the leaves, fruits, and               
stems.                                                                          
                                                                                
Many surfactants act as spreading, sticking and wetting agents.                 
They are most useful when spraying the hard-to-wet foliage of                   
such plants as azalea, boxwood, camellia, carnation, conifers,                  
euonymus, gardenia, gladiolus, holly, iris, narcissus, peony,                   
rose, and yew. Whether a spray rolls off or sticks to a plant                   
surface depends on the physical and chemical properties of the                  
spray mixture and the physical properties of the surface itself.                
If the surface tension of the mixture is high, or if the plant                  
surface is waxy, the spray droplets will roll off. The list                     
below contains examples of surfactants and their purposes.                      
                                                                                
Spreader or Film Extender (spreader-activator)  A spreader is a                 
substance that, when added to a pesticide mix, increases the area               
that a given volume of spray will cover and improves contact                    
between the pesticide and the plant surface. A spreading agent                  
builds spray deposits and improves weatherability. Most wettable                
powder insecticides benefit from the addition of a spreader.                    
                                                                                
Sticker or Adhesive   A sticker is a material that, when added to               
a spray mix or dust, improves the adherence (tenacity) to a plant               
surface rather than increasing the initial deposit. Commercial                  
sticking agents are oily in consistency and increase the amount                 
of suspended solids retained on plant surfaces by coating the                   
particles in a resin or varnish-like film. Most fungicides,                     
especially wettable powders, benefit greatly from the use of                    
stickers. Stickers may be judged in terms of resistance to wind                 
and water, length of adherence, and mechanical or chemical                      
action.                                                                         
                                                                                
Wetting Agent  A wetting agent is a material that, when added to                
a pesticide, lowers the interfacial tension between a liquid and                
a solid; in this case, a plant surface. The effectiveness is                    
measured by the increase in spread of a liquid over a solid                     
surface and the ability of the spray film to make complete                      
contact with it. When a wetting agent reduces surface tension,                  
spreading naturally occurs.                                                     
                                                                                
The pesticide label should state whether a surfactant is needed                 
or should be added to a spray mix for certain applications and                  
should indicate restrictions in the selection of compatible                     
surfactants. In many cases, surfactants have been designed speci-               
fically for use with fungicides, insecticides, or herbicides.                   
Although choosing an effective surfactant to accompany a specific               
pesticide is no simple task, the label will state whether a                     
surfactant is needed and the brand that should be used.                         
                                                                                
All commercial spreading, sticking and wetting agents should be                 
mixed strictly according to label directions. Adding more                       
surfactant than recommended may cause excessive runoff, resulting               
in a poor spray deposit and reduced pest control. In general, if                
the spray mix contains one or more pesticides produced or                       
formulated by the same company, use a surfactant sold or recom-                 
mended by that company. Surfactants are sold separately from                    
pesticides and are not subject to EPA registration.                             
                                                                                
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Why do my potato plants have little tomatoes on them?                           
                                                                                
Frequently gardeners observe small green fruit on potatoes, and                 
think they have a freak plant which will have tomatoes on top                   
and potatoes underground. This is not the case. Fruit formation                 
on potatoes is a normal occurance which should cause you no                     
concern.                                                                        
                                                                                
Potatoes and tomatoes belong to the same botanical family and                   
have similar fruits. On potatoes fruits remain relatively small                 
and green, and are of value only as a means of securing seeds,                  
if you are trying to breed a new variety. On tomato plants                      
fruits become large and fleshy, turn color when ripe, and are one               
of our most important vegetables.                                               
                                                                                
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Is a tomato a fruit or a vegetable?                                             
                                                                                
Tomato is actually a fruit, a berry, and a vegetable. It is a                   
fruit because it develops from the pistil or center part of the                 
flower, which usually contains the seeds. It is a berry type of                 
fruit because it is soft and succulent all the way through. And                 
it is a vegetable because of the way it is used in our diet.                    
                                                                                
A vegetable is any edible part of a plant which you want to call                
a vegetable. It sounds crazy, but consider some different parts                 
of plants which are edible, and which we call vegetables.                       
                                                                                
Carrots, beets, turnips, and sweet potatoes are roots, which are                
also considered vegetables. In asparagus we eat fleshy stems. The               
potato also is a stem, but a specialized underground stem which                 
stores food reserves. (The eyes of the potato are buds at nodes                 
which the growing points located on stems. Roots do not have                    
nodes.)                                                                         
                                                                                
Many of the vegetables we eat are leaves for instance kale,                     
spinach, and leaf lettuce. In celery we eat mostly the stalk or                 
petiole of the leaf. This is not the stem. The stem is the small                
hard basal portion from which the long celery leaves arise.                     
                                                                                
In cabbage and head lettuce we eat enormous terminal buds which                 
develop on the top of short stems. The bud is, of course,                       
composed of many tightly folded leaves, but the whole thing is a                
bud. In Brussels sprouts we eat small side or lateral buds.                     
                                                                                
With shelled beans and peas, we eat seeds. While in the snap                    
beans and edible podded peas we eat the entire fruit with the                   
immature seeds inside. In sweet corn, the principal edible part                 
is the seed.                                                                    
                                                                                
There are many vegetables which actually are fruits such as                     
cucumber, okra, pumpkin, squash, and pepper. Technically musk-                  
melon and watermelon also fall into this catagory even though in                
our diet we think of them as fruits. In some cases we cut the                   
fruit open and discard the seeds for example muskmelon and                      
pumpkin. In many other cases, when the fruit is consumed when                   
quite young, we eat the seeds also, as in cucumbers, okra, and                  
summer squash.                                                                  
June 1986 The Virginia Gardener Question Box                                    
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan and Debbie Blosser,               
Horticulture Extension Technicians, working with Diane Relf,                    
Extension Specialist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener                   
Question Box has been developed for agent use in preparing radio                
and newspaper features.                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
Dioecious Landscape Trees                          14 lines                     
Yam or Sweet Potato?                               32 lines                     
Choosing a Garden Sprayer                          79 lines                     
Perking Up Early Vegetables in an Organic Garden   24 lines                     
Petunia Groupings                                  15 lines                     
Lady's Mantle - Perennial Border Plant             14 lines                     
Japanese Clethra                                   26 lines                     
Chinese Scholar Tree                               12 lines                     
Why Radishes Go to Seed                             9 lines                     
Lath House Construction                            38 lines                     
                                                                                
                                                                                
Which trees are separated by sexes?  Do I always want both male                 
and female ornamentals in my yard?                                              
                                                                                
Persimmon, holly, ash, most maples, box elder, yew, cottonwood,                 
ginkgo, juniper, and some others are dioecious; that is, they                   
have male and female flowers on different plants. In the land-                  
scape, it is important to plant both sexes in order to produce                  
fruit or ornamental berries on persimmon and holly. Most others                 
are attractive in either sex with the exceptions of cottonwood                  
and ginkgo. Female cottonwoods produce fluffy "cotton" tufted                   
seeds. Many homeowners find this  fiber a nuisance and look for                 
male trees sold as "cottonless cottonwoods." Also avoid female                  
ginkgos which produce large, malodorous, fleshy, naked seeds                    
which resemble plum-shaped fruit. You would not want these                      
in your yard. Luckily, male clones are sold at most nurseries.                  
Before purchasing ginkgos, make sure the nursery guarantees only                
male plants.                                                                    
                                                                                
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What is the difference between yams and sweet potatoes?                         
                                                                                
Sweet potatoes are not true yams--they belong to the morning                    
glory family (Convolvulaceae), while true yams belong to the                    
Dioscoreaceae family which grow only in the tropics. The true                   
yam is rarely available anywhere in the U.S. even though some say               
a few may be found in the extreme southern part of the United                   
States.                                                                         
                                                                                
The term "yam" is used here as a trade name that refers to the                  
moist flesh type of sweet potato. The department of Agriculture                 
designates sweet potatoes as 'dry flesh' or as 'moist flesh'                    
according to the sensation experienced in the mouth during the                  
eating of cooked sweet potatoes. (The terms do not refer to the                 
actual moisture content of the potato.)                                         
                                                                                
Yam seems to sound better on restaurant menus and yams with ham                 
goes better in supermarket advertising especially around the                    
holidays. But chances are very good that the yams you eat are                   
really sweet potatoes.                                                          
                                                                                
Plant traditional vining type sweet potatoes in raised ridges, in               
light, deep, loose soils. Ridges permit fast growth of smooth,                  
properly shaped roots and make digging easier. Set plants when                  
danger of killing frost has passed. Leave 6 to 8 inches between                 
them and 3 feet between rows. Some varieties require only a foot                
of row space because they are the new "vineless" type.                          
                                                                                
Harvest before frost--handle roots carefully to prevent cuts,                   
bruises and broken roots. Use sweet potatoes soon after harvest.                
Either cook the potatoes and freeze them, or cure the roots                     
thoroughly at 75 to 80 F. and store in a well-ventilated location               
at 50 to 60 F.                                                                  
                                                                                
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What should I look for in choosing a garden sprayer or duster?                  
                                                                                
Before choosing a sprayer, consider how it will be used. The size               
of your yard and the type of spraying jobs to be done will help                 
you determine which sprayer is best for your needs. Choose a                    
sprayer that applies the spray with the right pressure, in the                  
right amount and pattern, and right on target. This will insure                 
complete converage of plants without waste.                                     
                                                                                
One of the most popular tools for applying pesticides is the                    
compressed-air sprayer. Highly versatile, it is ideal for almost                
any yard and garden spraying. You can also use it to control                    
crawling insects in and around your home. Compressed air sprayers               
are available in capacities from one to five gallons. In select-                
ing the sprayer that is the right size for you, remember that 1                 
gallon of water weighs 8 pounds. Therefore, a 5 gallon sprayer                  
weighs 40 pounds. Can you carry it?                                             
                                                                                
Compressed air sprayers give you control over the spray in these                
five important ways:                                                            
1. You mix the spray concentrate exactly as recommended for                     
best results.                                                                   
2. You control the pressure--high for a penetrating mist on                     
leafy plants; low for a coarse non-drift spray, ideal for                       
lawn weeds.                                                                     
3. The on-off control is instant, so you spray just to the                      
point of run-off without drenching or waste.                                    
4. With a long hose and extension, you can easily spray on                      
target to cover the entire plant and reach under leaves                         
where insects settle and some plant diseases begin.                             
5. You control the spray pattern--mist or coarse, close-up                      
or long range. Adjustable nozzle allows you to effectively                      
control different types of problems.                                            
                                                                                
Gardeners find added convenience in cordless electric sprayers.                 
With virtually the same performance as a compressed air sprayer,                
the cordless electric sprayer has an adjustable, nozzle, spray                  
extension and instant on-off control. Its lightweight and compact               
design make it easy to use and carry anywhere. A self-contained                 
battery supplies power for up to 45 minutes on an overnight                     
charge, more than enough for most lawn and garden spraying jobs.                
                                                                                
If trees need protection, a slide-type trombone sprayer sprays at               
high pressure to reach trees as high as 25 feet. The nozzle also                
adjusts to a fine spray good for low growing plants such as                     
flowers, vegetables, and shrubs. The sprayer draws the spray                    
material from a separate container such as a bucket.                            
                                                                                
For those with small gardens or patio plants, a hand sprayer with               
a one or two quart container is convenient and effective. These                 
sprayers develop pressure high enough to break up the spray                     
material into fine droplets. This is essential for enveloping the               
entire plant. Make sure the nozzle is adjustable, and the spray                 
can be directed under the leaves for complete coverage.                         
                                                                                
If you have a really large yard or garden, you might appreciate                 
the ease and big capacity (10 to 50 gallons) of a power sprayer.                
With power supplied by either a gas engine or electric moter, the               
power sprayer's high pressure assures extra range as well as                    
thorough coverage. Models are available that attach to lawn                     
tractors. Special accessories are also available further increas-               
ing this sprayer's convenience and versatility.                                 
                                                                                
The hose-end sprayer is a bottle with hose attachments which                    
holds liquid pesticides. The pesticide is mixed with water in a                 
certain ratio as the water flows out of the garden hose. These                  
devices are inexpensive and serve the purpose quite adequately;                 
however, it may take some figuring to get the appropriate ratio                 
of pesticide to water. An adjustable nozzle is a good feature. An               
antisiphon device should be part of a hose-end sprayer because if               
there is drop in your water pressure, the chemicals can be sucked               
up into your water system. The extra price you may have to pay                  
for this safety feature will be well worth the peace of mind.                   
                                                                                
A duster is a handy applicator for homeowners who prefer using                  
dust formulations to protect their plants and flowers. Be sure to               
choose a duster that has a long extension and adjustable nozzle.                
This will allow you to put the dust right where it is needed,                   
especially under leaves. (Adapted from article by extension                     
agents Michael L. Henry and Richard A. Nunnally)                                
                                                                                
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I plant radishes every year. Except for the first harvest in                    
spring, I seldom get any more with good roots. What am I doing                  
wrong?                                                                          
                                                                                
You are doing nothing wrong for your radishes. High tempertures                 
and long days tend to stimulate vegetative growth and seed stalk                
development at the expense of root development. The best roots                  
are formed under moderate to cool temperatures. Therefore, avoid                
late spring and summer plantings of this cool season crop.                      
                                                                                
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I am trying to produce an organic garden this year. However, the                
vegetables in my neighbor's garden look better. Is there any way                
I can perk up my crops?                                                         
                                                                                
Organic gardeners may notice that in early spring their crops                   
may not be as green or growing as well as their neighbors' who                  
are using synthetic granular or liquid fertilizers. This is                     
mainly due to the fact most organic sources of nitrogen are being               
released very slowly because the microorganisms that are respons-               
ible for this process are not very lively under cool soil                       
conditions. Increasing soil temperatures by using raised beds or                
black plastic will help; but since your crops are already                       
planted, this is not a solution applicable to this growing                      
season.                                                                         
                                                                                
What you may want to do now is add a few teaspoons of a soluable                
nitrogen source about one or two inches from the base of each                   
plant. If you do not want to give your plants a dose of synthetic               
fertilizer, here are a few fast-acting organic sources to use:                  
dried blood, fish emulsion, manure tea. It is easiest to use                    
liquid sources of nitrogen. If applying dry fertilizer, make                    
small slits or poke holes into the soil about 2-3 inches deep.                  
When making holes for fertilizer, try not to cut or disturb the                 
plant roots.                                                                    
                                                                                
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I read about single, double, multiflora and grandiflora petunias                
... what does it all mean?                                                      
                                                                                
Seed breeders use these terms to help lump similar varieties of                 
petunias into groups. Most petunias have "single" blossoms. This                
means they have only one layer of petals. "Double" blossoms have                
two or more layers of petals. Some fancy double varieties have                  
waved and frilled petal margins and resemble powder puffs.                      
                                                                                
Multiflora petunias have many medium sized blossoms. These                      
varieties withstand heat and humidity well. You can buy double or               
single multifloras.                                                             
                                                                                
Grandiflora petunias have large, rather ornate blossoms but not                 
as many as the multifloras. Varieties come in single or double                  
blossom forms and in compact or spreading varieties.                            
                                                                                
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What is a good plant to use as a border for a perennial bed in                  
the mountainous region of Virginia?                                             
                                                                                
One of the prettiest plants for edging borders is Lady's mantle,                
Alchemilla vulgaris. A perennial clump-forming herb. Lady's                     
mantle grows to 8 inches in height. It has soft gray-green leaves               
which appear early in spring and persist until late autumn.                     
In summer, it bears clusters of tiny greenish-yellow flowers on                 
10-inch forked stems.                                                           
                                                                                
A. vulgaris is easy to grow in a cool, moist climate. Plants seed               
very freely; fading flower heads should be removed promptly to                  
limit its spread. Alpine alchemilla (A. alpina), a smaller                      
species, has deeply serrated, silvery foliage, and forms dense                  
mats rather than clumps.                                                        
                                                                                
 ---------------                                                                
                                                                                
Is there a tall shrub with fragrant flowers and showy bark that                 
can grow in a shady spot in my landscape?                                       
                                                                                
Shrubs or trees with ornamental bark as well as flowers are                     
certainly not as common as the discriminating gardener would                    
like. One suggestion is Japanese tree clethra (Clethra barbinerv-               
is).                                                                            
                                                                                
Like its popular but much smaller American relative, summersweet                
or sweet pepperbush (C. alnifolia), this 15-20 foot shrub or                    
small tree produces an abundance of long-lasting 4-6 inch racemes               
of anise-scented white flowers in summer. These are unique being                
carried horizontally instead of upright. A more important feature               
which makes C. barbinervis attractive in all seasons is its                     
smooth, rich brown bark.                                                        
                                                                                
Japanese clethra withstands considerable shade and is pest-free                 
if not deprived of moisture. Ideal for the border or corner of a                
foundation planting, it deserves to be used more widely.                        
                                                                                
Cinnamon clethra (C. acuminata) is another American clethra. It                 
would be a useful tall shrub or small tree for landscapes in the                
higher elavations of Virginia if the soil is gravelly. It also                  
has fragrant, white flowers and ornamental bark. The bark is                    
shiny cinnamon brown. Since cinnamon clethra is a native to the                 
Southeast, it would work especially well in a naturalist landsca-               
pe.                                                                             
                                                                                
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While in Washington, D.C. last fall, I noticed some interesting                 
street trees with fruit that looked like a string of green jelly                
beans. Could you tell me more about this odd tree?                              
                                                                                
Chinese scholar tree (Sophora japonica), also called Japanese                   
pagoda tree (although it is native to China and Korea) is a                     
versatile and handsome summer-flowering tree. This temperate                    
zone member of the pea family, hardy to -20 degrees F, rivals its               
many tropical relatives in floral beauty. In addition, it thrives               
in hot, dry, infertile situations making it an exceptionally good               
city tree Fine specimens can be seen on the steets of Washington.               
                                                                                
S. japonica grows to 40-60 feet with a round top. An unusual                    
feature is the shiny green color of young branches. Glossy,                     
locust-like, ferny foliage gives open shade that does not deter                 
lawn grass planted beneath it. Large (15"), creamy flower                       
clusters are showy from July into August Pale green seed pods                   
persist into winter.                                                            
                                                                                
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I've been considering adding a lath house to my home grounds. Do                
you think a homeowner can actually get much use out of these                    
wooden structures?                                                              
                                                                                
The lath house is once again becoming a feature of fine gardens.                
But it is appearing in new forms, and is often multi-functional.                
Originally a simple shelter for summering indoor plants, it now                 
may be an elaborate "outdoor living" structure, a combination                   
conservatory and recreation center.                                             
                                                                                
On smaller properties, a lath house adjoining the patio or                      
attached to the home, garage, greenhouse, wall, or fence, is an                 
esthetically pleasing as well as space-saving solution. "Half-                  
and-half" designs, with part lath and part solid roof, or roofed                
with alternating wide and narrow lath, are another new approach.                
                                                                                
Then there is a Southern idea, now increasingly seen in more                    
Northward: the lath house that becomes a greenhouse in winter.                  
Usually this structure is attached to the home, so an open door                 
or window can supply at least enough heat for cool-growing                      
plants. Polyethylene sheeting, or sash covered on both sides with               
plastic, is tacked on in the fall.                                              
                                                                                
Some tips on design and construction of a lath house:                           
   1) standard 1-1/2 to 2 inch lath, spaced a lath width apart,                 
gives ample shading for many plants, with bamboo or reed shades                 
or vines to provide more shade if needed;                                       
   2) a concrete foundation is best for permanence in large                     
structures; plus a cement, stone, or gravel floor that can be                   
damped down for humidity-loving plants;                                         
   3) quite a few woods will serve for corner posts, studs and                  
beams when treated with wood preservative. Use 2 x 4's or larger                
for joists if you plan to hang plants. Roof beams can be steamed                
into curved shapes for a contemporary design.                                   
   4) a roof overhang will provide midday shade for a foundation                
planting.                                                                       
   5) a "sun wall" can be created using concrete blocks; ornamen-               
tal blocks such as those cast with a central open cloverleaf                    
design store heat from the day and are decorative as well.                      
May 1986 Virginia Gardener Question Box                                         
                                                                                
Care of Potted Geraniums                    22 lines                            
Hints for Novice Landscapers                20 lines                            
Fragrant Flowers                            19 lines                            
Avoid Soil Damage                           14 lines                            
Thinning Fruit in the Home Orchard          60 lines                            
Interplanting in the Vegetable Garden       44 lines                            
Reducing Water Needs in the Garden          38 lines                            
Trees to Avoid                              98 lines                            
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
I have been given a potted azalea. How should I care for it? Can                
I plant it outdoors in summer?                                                  
                                                                                
Indoor azaleas require full sunlight to remain healthy. A night                 
temperature of 60 degrees will prolong bloom. Keep the soil                     
constantly moist. If the leaves should turn yellow, the soil is                 
not acid enough. Use an acid fertilizer sold especially for                     
azaleas. Do not use softened water as it may have too high                      
pH. When repotting, use a mixture high in acid peat moss.                       
                                                                                
Azaleas can be planted, pot and all, in a shady spot in the                     
garden during the summer months. Examine them frequently and keep               
them watered during dry periods. Greenhouse azaleas are not                     
hardy, and need to be brought indoors before freezing weather.                  
                                                                                
Azaleas need a cool rest treatment before they are forced into                  
bloom. Place the plants in a room with a temperature between                    
35-50 degrees F and filtered light. During this rest period,                    
flower buds will develop. Then place in a well lighted warm (65                 
F) room around January 1 and the plant will bloom. Unless you                   
have the proper growing conditions for the azalea, you should not               
attempt to carry the plants over.                                               
                                                                                
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Our family (two adults, two young children) has just moved into                 
our first home. We will be planting the yard ourselves to save                  
money. What hints do you have for novice landscapers?                           
                                                                                
A sucessful landscape should be able to age and mature with a                   
family. Don't plan a landscape whose use will remain static                     
because it will not function as a family's needs change. A plan                 
for a very young family calls for inexpensive plantings. There                  
should be open areas in which children and pets can play. As a                  
family reaches its middle years, more extensive and expensive                   
plantings can be put in. The children's play area can serve other               
functions; for example, a sand box area can be converted into a                 
lily pool. As the children grow up they require less play area                  
and less parental supervision; providing both a place and time                  
for more sophisticated landscaping. With the approach of retire-                
ment years, the landscape should become one of low maintenance.                 
Mature trees and shrubs will carry the landscape theme. High                    
labor areas such as flower beds should be minimized. Ramps and                  
walks may replace steps.                                                        
                                                                                
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What I enjoy best about a garden are the sweet scents. Please                   
give me some suggestions for fragrant flowers.                                  
                                                                                
Gardens appeal to several of our senses: touch and smell as well                
as sight. The following list contains flowers noted for their                   
pleasant fragance.                                                              
                                                                                
Fragrant annuals: Alyssum, Nicotiana (flowering tobacco),                       
Dianthus (pinks), Stock, Heliotrope, Petunias, Mignonette (herb),               
Phlox, Nasturtiums, Sweet peas.                                                 
                                                                                
Fragrant perennials: Southernwood, Lily-of-the-Valley, Dianthus                 
plumarius (Grass Pink), Dictamnus albus (Dittany or Gas Plant),                 
Galium odoratum (Sweet woodruff), Hesperis matronalis (Sweet                    
Rocket), Hosta plantaginea grandiflora (Funkia or Big Plantain                  
Lily), Heliotropium arborescens, Monarda didyma (Bee Balm),                     
Peony, Phlox paniculata (Phlox), Rose species, Valeriana officin-               
alis (Common Valerian), Viola cornuta (Tufted Pansy, Horned                     
violet), Viola odorata (Sweet Violet), Lavandula vera (True                     
Lavender).                                                                      
                                                                                
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When does cultivating or hoeing the garden damage the soil the                  
least?                                                                          
                                                                                
Cultivation is best done when the soil is somewhat moist, but not               
wet. Working wet soil will change the structure, especially in                  
heavy soils. When it is too dry, weeds are difficult to pull and                
hoeing is also harder. A day or two after a rain or irrigation is               
probably the best time to cultivate. If you have a choice,                      
remember that the work will be much more pleasant in the cool                   
temperatures of early morning or evening. On hot summer after-                  
noons, you are likely to fatigue more easily, get a sunburn, or                 
suffer from sun poisoning, sunstroke or worse. Wear protective                  
clothing if you must work when it's hot, and stop frequently for                
rest and refreshment.                                                           
                                                                                
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Is thinning of peaches, plums and apples recommended in a home                  
orchard? If so, how do I do it quickly? Is there a chemical I                   
can use?                                                                        
                                                                                
Quite frequently, peach and apple trees set more fruit than                     
they can mature to a desirable size. By thinning (removing excess               
fruit), this difficulty can be overcome. Thinning not only allows               
for an increase in size of the remaining fruit on the tree, but                 
also improves fruit color and quality, reduces limb breakage, and               
promotes general tree vigor. Thinning induces regular annual                    
bearing in certain apple varieties, such as Golden Delicious,                   
Yellow Transparent, and York Imperial, which otherwise have a                   
tendency to bear heavy crops every other year. Perhaps one of the               
greatest benefits from thinning fruits is that it permits more                  
thorough spraying or dusting for effective disease and insect                   
control.                                                                        
                                                                                
Peach thinning is a standard practice in commercial orchards.                   
Experimental results indicate that the sooner peach trees are                   
thinned after bloom, the earlier the ripening and the larger                    
the fruits at harvest. It is doubtful that final size of the                    
fruits of any variety will be greatly increased by thinning                     
if it is delayed much after the pits begin to harden. It is                     
generally recommended that peaches be spaced 6 to 8" apart.                     
When thinning by hand, grasp the stem or branch firmly between                  
your thumb and forefinger and pull the fruit off with a quick                   
motion of the second and third fingers.                                         
                                                                                
Many growers use the pole method of thinning peaches. A 4 or 5'                 
section of bamboo or other light wood is used. A piece of 3/4"                  
garden or spray hose about 15" long is forced tightly onto the                  
end of the pole, leaving some 8 to 10" of the hose extending                    
beyond the end of the pole. A snug fit is necessary so the hose                 
will remain in place while being used.                                          
                                                                                
Many modifications of this tool are used. One of the most                       
common is a 30" section of plastic pipe, 1" in diameter. Remove                 
peaches by striking the limbs about 18" from their tips with the                
flexible part of the hose, using sharp, firm blows. This dislodg-               
es any loosely attached fruits. With a little practice, you                     
should be able to remove individual fruits by this method.                      
                                                                                
Apples should be thinned as soon as possible after the fruit                    
has set. If full benefits are to be obtained, thinning should                   
be completed within 20 to 25 days after full bloom. In hand-thin-               
ning apples, use the same general technique used in hand-thinning               
peaches. A distance of 6 to 10" between fruits is recommended.                  
With varieties of Delicious apples, where greater size of                       
individual fruits is important, the greater spacing is preferred.               
The center apple of a cluster is usually the largest and the best               
apple to leave.                                                                 
                                                                                
Thinning plums is usually limited to the large Japanese varie-                  
ties. The primary concern here is to facilitate insect and                      
disease control. Plums are usually thinned by hand to about 4"                  
apart.                                                                          
                                                                                
Chemical sprays are used by many commercial growers to thin                     
apples and peaches. If you wish to use them in your planting,                   
contact your local Extension Agent for recommendations.                         
                                                                                
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Twice now I have tried to cover a very visible slope in my yard                 
with groundcover plants; twice now I have failed, ending up with                
weeds. I need some pointers. These plants are expensive.                        
                                                                                
Selection of a ground cover will depend upon the area where it                  
will be used. Is it in sun, partially or deeply shaded?  Soil                   
conditions must be studied.  Some ground covers prefer a moist                  
soil, rich in organic matter while others will adapt to dry,                    
sandy situations.  Give consideration to color, texture, height                 
and habit as well, since some ground covers tend to grow rampant-               
ly.                                                                             
                                                                                
One problem that limits the use of ground covers is the cost of                 
installation since large numbers of small, individual plants are                
required. In addition, a well prepared planting bed is essential                
to the establishment of ground covers and can be costly and                     
time consuming.                                                                 
                                                                                
Significant maintenance is necessary for the first one to three                 
years or until the ground cover becomes established. They require               
cultivation to control weeds and other plant invaders; fertiliza-               
tion to encourage fast, vigorous growth to achieve good cover;                  
irrigation in times of dryness; and disease and pest control.                   
When these maintenance considerations are ignored, the progress                 
toward achieving a good ground cover planting is disappointing.                 
                                                                                
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Please explain  the word "interplanting" as used in gardening                   
magazines.                                                                      
                                                                                
Growing two or more types of vegetables in the same place at the                
same time is known as interplanting. Proper planning is essenti-                
al to obtain higher production and increased quality of the crops               
planted. This technique has been practiced for thousands of                     
years, but is just now gaining widespread support in this                       
country.                                                                        
                                                                                
To successfully plan an interplanted garden the following factors               
must be taken into account for each plant: the length of the                    
plant's growth period, its growth pattern (tall, short, below or                
above ground), possible negative effects on other plants (such as               
the allelopathic effects of sunflowers and Jerusalem artichokes                 
on nearby plants), preferred season, and light, nutrient and                    
moisture requirements.                                                          
                                                                                
Interplanting can be accomplished by alternating rows within a                  
bed (plant a row of peppers next to a row of onions), by mixing                 
plants within a row, or by distributing various species througho-               
ut the bed. For the beginner, alternating rows may be the easiest               
to manage at first.                                                             
                                                                                
Long season (slow maturing) and short season (quick maturing)                   
plants like carrots and radishes, respectively, can be planted at               
the same time. The radishes are harvested before they begin to                  
crowd the carrots. An example of combining growth patterns is                   
planting smaller plants close to larger plants, (radishes at the                
base of beans or broccoli). Shade tolerant species like lettuce,                
spinach, and celery may be planted in the shadow of taller crops.               
Heavy feeders, such as cabbage family crops, should be mixed with               
less gluttonous plants. Root, leaf, and soil-building crops                     
(legumes) may be mixed to take advantage of available nutrients.                
                                                                                
Interplanting can help keep insect and disease problems under                   
control. Pests are usually fairly crop-specific; that is, they                  
prefer vegetables of one type or family. Mixing families of                     
plants helps to break up large expanses of the pest-preferred                   
crop, helping to contain early pest damage within a small area,                 
thus giving the gardener a little more time to deal with the                    
problem. One disadvantage is that when it does come time to                     
spray for pests, it's harder to be sure that all plants are                     
protected.                                                                      
                                                                                
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I have sandy soil in my garden. What do I do to keep from                       
having to water so often?                                                       
                                                                                
Addition of organic matter is the first step in improving                       
the moisture conditions in your garden. The moisture-holding                    
capacity of sandy soils is improved by additions of organic                     
matter. Though most soil water in sandy soil is available to                    
plants, it drains so quickly that plants are unable to reach                    
water after even a few days following a rain. Humus in sandy                    
soil gives the water something to cling to until it is needed by                
plants.                                                                         
                                                                                
Mulching is a cultural practice which can significantly decrease                
the amount of water that must be added to the soil. A 6-8"                      
organic mulch can reduce water needs by as much as 1/2 by                       
smothering annual weeds (which take up and transpire moisture)                  
and by reducing evaporation of moisture directly from the soil.                 
Organic mulches themselves hold some water and increase the                     
humidity level around the plant. Black plastic mulch also                       
conserves moisture but may increase soil temperatures drama-                    
tically during the summer (to the detriment of some plants and                  
the benefit of others) if not covered by other mulch materials or               
foliage.                                                                        
                                                                                
Shading and the use of windbreaks are other moisture-conserving                 
techniques. Plants that wilt in very sunny areas can benefit                    
from partial shade during the afternoon in summer. Small plants,                
in particular, should be protected. Air moving across a plant                   
carries away the moisture on the leaf surfaces, causing more                    
water to be needed by the plant. In very windy areas the roots                  
often cannot keep up with leaf demands, and plants wilt. Tempor-                
ary or permanent windbreaks can help tremendously.                              
                                                                                
During those times when cultural practices simply aren't enough,                
when rainfall is sparse and the sun is hot, watering can benefit                
your garden with higher yields, or may save the garden altogether               
in severe drought years.                                                        
                                                                                
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Would it help my houseplants if I used the potting soil sold in                 
the stores? I've not had great luck with potted plants but I'd                  
hate to throw money away.                                                       
                                                                                
The potting soil or media in which a plant grows must be of good                
quality. It should be porous for root aeration and drainage but                 
also capable of water and nutrient retention. Most commercially                 
prepared mixes are termed artificial which means they contain no                
soil. High quality artificial mixes generally contain slow                      
release fertilizers which take care of a plant's nutritional                    
requirements for several months.                                                
                                                                                
Many commercial soil mixes are well formulated for plants grown                 
in containers. However there are also many cases in which the                   
potting soil is appropriate for pot plants, containing tii much                 
well decomposed organic material and very little drainage                       
material. If you have alot of plants and the space to do the                    
mixing you may save a few dollars and some headaches. If not,                   
you should purchase a small quanity of the potting soil to                      
determine its suitablity before making a large investment.                      
                                                                                
Most mixes contain a combination of organic matter, such as                     
peat moss or ground pine bark, and an inorganic material like,                  
washed sand, vermiculite or perlite. Materials commonly used for                
house plants are the peat-lite mixtures, consisting of peat moss                
and either vermiculite or perlite.                                              
                                                                                
The following materials will make two bushels of mix:                           
		1 bushel shredded peat moss                                                   
		2 bushels perlite or vermiculite                                              
		1/2 cup finely ground agricultural lime                                       
		1/3 cup 20% superphosphate                                                    
		1/2 cup 8-8-8 or similar analysis mixed fertilizer                            
		1 level teaspoon chelated iron                                                
                                                                                
Artificial mixtures are usually very low in trace or minor elem-                
ents, therefore, it is important to use a fertilizer that                       
contains these trace elements.                                                  
                                                                                
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There are alot of weedy trees I would rather not plant. What                    
trees would you avoid in your yard?                                             
                                                                                
When selecting a tree to plant in your yard it is nice to know                  
exactly what you are getting. Many homeowners plant a sapling,                  
enjoy it for a few years, and then discover some serious disad-                 
vantages when the tree reaches an effective height.                             
                                                                                
Following is a list of trees which you should know something                    
about before you plant them in your yard:                                       
                                                                                
Acer negundo (Box Elder) This tree has weak wood, is short-                     
lived and is susceptible to box elder bugs.                                     
                                                                                
Acer saccharinum (Silver Maple) One of the worst trees available                
because of its brittle wood and tendency to become hollow and                   
hazardous. Its shallow surface roots can ruin sidewalks and                     
driveways, clog up septic systems, and prevent turfgrass growth.                
Also susceptible to insects.                                                    
                                                                                
Ailanthus altissima (Tree of Heaven) A weed tree that sprouts                   
up everywhere and has a disagreeable odor. It is outlawed in                    
some cities.                                                                    
                                                                                
Albizia julibrissin (Mimosa) Susceptible to Mimosa Wilt (root-                  
fungus) and has weak, fast growth.                                              
                                                                                
Betula papyrifera (White Clump Birch) Authorities say it isn't                  
likely to do well where the mean July temperature is above 70                   
degrees F. It is pretty but short-lived.                                        
                                                                                
Betula pendula (European White Birch) This birch is susceptible                 
to insects and much environmental stress.                                       
                                                                                
Catalpa sp. All Catalpas have messy flowers and seed pods.                      
                                                                                
Ginkgo biloba (Gingko) Do not plant the female Ginkgo. It's                     
fruits have a very offensive odor.                                              
                                                                                
Juglans nigra (Black Walnut) The tree roots produce a toxin that                
is harmful to certain other plants and anthracnose will defoliate               
it during August and September. The wood is valuable though.                    
                                                                                
Laburnum anagyroides (Golden Chain Tree) This tree is subject to                
much environmental stress.                                                      
                                                                                
Malus species (Crabapple) Most varieties are defoliated by scab                 
diseases every year. The fruits can be messy.                                   
                                                                                
Melia azedarach (Chinaberry) This tree has weak wood, seeds                     
that are a pest and many suckers.                                               
                                                                                
Morus species (Mulberry) Mulberries have messy fruit.                           
                                                                                
Paulownia tomentosa (Empress Tree) Its pretty flowers become                    
thousands of seeds which sprout everywhere.                                     
                                                                                
Platanus occidentalis (Sycamore) Leaves and seeds from this tree                
are messy; it has brittle wood and surface roots. Anthracnose, a                
late spring blight which occurs most years will attack it.                      
                                                                                
Populus species (Lombardy poplar, white or silver poplar, hybrid                
poplars, cottonwood) These trees have brittle wood and surface                  
root systems, but their main problem is that they are very                      
susceptible to canker diseases which disfigure and usually kill                 
them. Some also have messy flowers or send up suckers from their                
roots. The Lombardy poplar is very short-lived. Note that the                   
tulip poplar (or Yellow Poplar) is not a poplar, but rather a                   
magnolia. While it does have brittle wood, it is a pretty good                  
tree.                                                                           
                                                                                
Prunus serotina (Black Cherry) Has objectionable fruit; is                      
susceptible to insects and attracts many birds.                                 
                                                                                
Robinia pseudoacacia (Black Locust) It is good for fence posts                  
and firewood, but not for landscaping. It has brittle wood, is                  
susceptible to cankers, and leaf miners render it unattractive by               
summer.                                                                         
                                                                                
Salix species (Willows) These trees have very brittle wood and                  
are susceptible to canker diseases. Their roots will clog sewer                 
and drain pipes. Some are attractive on large lots.                             
                                                                                
Sorbus species (Mountain Ash) Does best in cool climates. Subject               
to damage from sawflies, borers, scale, and fire blight.                        
                                                                                
Ulmus americana (American Elm) Until Dutch elm disease can be                   
controlled, this long time favorite should not be planted.                      
                                                                                
Ulmus pumila (Siberian Elm) Its brittle wood will result in                     
severe damage in ice storms, and its seeds and suckering habit                  
make it a pest. Also very short-lived. Note that the Chinese elm                
(Ulmus parvifolia) is often confused with the Siberian Elm, but                 
is far superior.                                                                
                                                                                
Fruit trees (and fruit trees that only flower) These are often                  
subject to Japanese beetle infestation. Fruit trees require a                   
genuine commitment; don't try to get into them halfway.                         
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan and Debbie Blosser,               
Horticulture Extension Technicians, working with Diane Relf,                    
Extension Specialist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener                   
Question Box has been developed for agent use in preparing radio                
and newspaper features.                                                         
                                                                                
                                                                                
The Virginia Gardener Question Box March 1986                                   
                                                                                
Blueberry culture                               50 lines                        
'Bleeding' of grape vines                       14 lines                        
Repotting houseplants                           34 lines                        
Using manure in the garden                      28 lines                        
Black raspberry renovation                      45 lines                        
Bleeding heart                                  30 lines                        
Rhubarb culture                                 79 lines                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
I enjoyed picking blueberries at a farm in the country. What                    
would I need to do to grow my own?                                              
                                                                                
Many home gardeners have been successful with blueberry plantings               
in Virginia. Although they may be grown in any area where native                
blueberries, azaleas, mountain laurel, or rhododendrons do well,                
they have a better flavor when grown where nights are cool during               
the ripening season.                                                            
                                                                                
Set blueberry plants in early spring, about 3 or 4 weeks before                 
the average date of the last frost. Plants are usually placed                   
every 4' in rows 6' apart. Blueberries should be planted where                  
they have full sunlight most of the day, and far enough from the                
roots of trees to avoid competition for moisture and nutrients.                 
The plants are shallow-rooted and must either be irrigated or                   
heavily mulched. Adequate drainage must be provided, because                    
blueberry bushes cannot tolerate wet feet.                                      
                                                                                
Blueberries grow best is porous, moist, sandy soils high in                     
organic matter with a pH range of 4.0 to 5.2. Have a soil test                  
made. If your soil is not acidic enough for blueberries, work                   
materials such as peat moss, oak leaves, pine needles, or sulfur                
into the area where the plants are to be set. This should be done               
6 months to a year before planting. Once the proper acidity is                  
established, it must be maintained through the annual use                       
of an acid fertilizer.                                                          
                                                                                
Blueberries are very exacting in soil and moisture requirements,                
but require little protection from insect and disease pests.                    
Birds are by far the greatest pest in the blueberry planting.                   
Covering the bushes with wire cages, fish or plastic netting, or                
tobacco cloth, is perhaps the best method of bird control.                      
Aluminum pie tins suspended by a string or wire above the bushes                
have been used successfully to keep the birds away.                             
                                                                                
Cross pollination is necessary for a good crop of blueberries. To               
provide for adequate cross pollination, two or more varieties of                
blueberries should be planted. The following varieties suggested                
for planting in home gardens in Virginia ripen over a 6 to 8 week               
period, beginning in early June and continuing through July. All                
are vigorous and productive under good growing conditions, and                  
produce berries of large size and good quality: Earliblue (not                  
recommended for planting in western Virginia), Ivanhoe, Blueray,                
Bluecrop, Jersey, Berkeley, Herbert and Coville.                                
                                                                                
The VCES publication 426-840 discusses the culture of small fruit               
crops in detail. You may request this bulletin by contacting your               
local extension agent.                                                          
                                                                                
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When I was pruning my grape vines, a strange thing happened. A                  
clear fluid began oozing out of the cuts. Is this harmful to                    
the plant?                                                                      
                                                                                
"Bleeding" of grape vines is normal if you prune vines after they               
have started growing. Pruning during dormancy does not usually                  
cause bleeding, but it can occur if a couple of warm days come                  
along right after pruning. Bleeding is not harmful to your vines,               
so don't worry about it.                                                        
                                                                                
If you want good size and quality fruit, you must prune your                    
vines annually. The best time to prune is while the vines are                   
dormant. Avoid heavy pruning in the middle of the summer as it                  
weakens the vines and encourages late growth that may not survive               
the winter.                                                                     
                                                                                
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When should I repot my houseplants and how should I go about it?                
                                                                                
Foliage plants require repotting when their roots have filled                   
their pot and are growing out the bottom. Spring is the best                    
time to transplant as the weather is ideal to help the plant                    
recover from transplant stress. The pot selected for repotting                  
should be no more than two inches larger in diameter than the pot               
the plant is currently growing in, as an oversized pot will cause               
water logging of the soil and actually stunt growth. The pot                    
should have at least one drainage hole.                                         
                                                                                
Most plants are removed easily from their pot by holding the                    
container upside down and knocking the edge against any solid                   
object. Hold your hand over the soil, placing the plant between                 
the fore and middle fingers. Never try to pull the plant out of                 
the pot by its stem. If the plant has become root bound, it will                
be necessary to cut and unwind any roots that circle the pot                    
base, otherwise these roots will never develop normally. If the                 
old soil surface has accumulated a salty crust, the top inch                    
should be carefully removed.                                                    
                                                                                
Potting media used should be coarse enough to allow good drainage               
yet have good water retention capabilities. Media should be                     
moistened before you begin repotting as many potting soil mixes                 
contain peat moss which sheds moisture for a time before it                     
absorbs water. Begin repotting by placing a small amount of fresh               
media in the bottom of the pot. Set the rootball in the middle of               
the new soil. Fill soil around the sides between the rootball and               
pot. Do not add soil above the original level on the rootball,                  
unless the roots are exposed, or it has been necessary to remove                
some of the surface soil. Firm or settle the soil by tapping the                
pot against a table top and gently press the soil with your                     
fingers. Do not pack the soil. Make sure you leave space between                
the soil level and the top of the pot to allow for watering.                    
                                                                                
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Does all manure work in the garden? Aren't some strong enough to                
burn the plants? What about dog and cat droppings and the stuff                 
they sell packaged at the garden center?                                        
                                                                                
All manure is not alike. Manure from horses, cattle, pigs,                      
sheep and even pets has different properties. Before using any                  
type of manure, it is best to know the type and check with your                 
extension agent to find out if, how, when and how much to apply.                
                                                                                
Fresh sheep, rabbit and poultry manure have a very high nitrogen                
content, and so must be well rotted before using on a garden.                   
This means storing or composting the manure a year or so before                 
using it on a garden. Horse and cattle manure can be composted,                 
or applied to the garden in the fall to give it some time to                    
break down. Some garden centers offer sterilized bags of manure,                
but this form of fertilizer can become quite expensive if you are               
amending a large garden.                                                        
                                                                                
Roundworm, an intestinal parasite of pigs, is found in some                     
swine manure. Because of this parasite, some people neglect                     
using swine manure, but humans have rarely been infected with                   
roundworms traced to the use of pig manure in their gardens.                    
Simple hygiene--cleansing of hands after working in the garden                  
and washing of harvested crops--should eliminate any problems.                  
                                                                                
Dog and cat manure should be avoided because it could contain                   
parasite eggs and/or larvae which can infect man. Dogs may                      
harbor roundworms, while cats can be host to toxoplasmosis, a                   
protozoan parasite. (Information provided by Dr. Jorden Hansen,                 
Assistant Professor, Pathobiology & Public Practice)                            
                                                                                
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I recently bought a small farm that has a neglected patch of                    
black raspberries. I need information on when and how it would be               
best to trim and thin out these plants as they are very overgrown               
and thick.                                                                      
                                                                                
Before attempting to renovate your black raspberry patch,                       
consider two things. First, determine if it is a wild or cultiva-               
ted stand. A wild stand will not be worth putting much effort                   
into as newer, more productive varieties are available. Second,                 
be aware that black raspberries are more prone to virus diseases                
and should not be left near to where one anticipates planting                   
red raspberries. If your plot is a cultivated planting and you                  
choose to keep it, the chance of revitalizing it should be good                 
if proper pruining is done (assuming that other environmental                   
conditions such as plenty of sunlight and adequate moisture are                 
present for the plants.)                                                        
                                                                                
Start the renovation of cultivated black raspberry plants late                  
this winter with a dormant pruning to thin out and cut back                     
excess growth. Delay dormant pruning for bramble fruits until the               
danger of severe cold is passed in the winter, but before the                   
buds begin to swell for the new spring growth.                                  
                                                                                
In dormant pruning, remove all the dead, weak, and severely                     
damaged canes; in addition, eliminate crowded conditions. Cut out               
any dead canes since bramble fruits have biennial cane growth;                  
that is, they fruit on two year old canes which then die. Thin                  
each plant so that only four or five of the best year-old                       
canes remain per clump. Then, cut the side branches of the black                
raspberry canes so that they are only nine to tweleve inches                    
long. Since the new raspberry canes produced this year will be                  
the ones that fruit next year, you will want to save young, thick               
fruiting canes that are a half-inch or more in diameter.                        
                                                                                
In addition to the dormant pruning of the black raspberry plants,               
you should prune the young black raspberry shoots when they are                 
about two feet high next summer. For black raspberries, this                    
pruning operation, referred to as summer-topping, consists                      
of removing the top three or four inches of the new shoots.                     
Topping keeps the canes from growing too tall. To prevent the                   
possible spread of disease, canes should not be topped when they                
are wet or when rain is forecast that day.                                      
                                                                                
Since your black raspberry planting has been neglected for a                    
while, it would be advisable to take a soil test from the area                  
to see if there are any particular nutrient needs or a need for                 
lime. Normally, on fertile soils or where a good mulch is                       
maintained, bramble fruits do not need a regular fertilizer                     
program. If growth has been poor, the addition of one half to one               
pound of nitrate of soda to each 100 feet of row when growth                    
begins in the spring will be beneficial. (Adapted from an article               
by John Arbogast, Roanoke City Extension Agent.)                                
                                                                                
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As a Valentine's Day gift, a friend ordered me a live plant                     
called bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis.) What should I                     
do when this arrives?                                                           
                                                                                
The flowers of the plant Dicentra spectabilis, the common or                    
garden bleeding heart, resemble tiny living valentines; pink                    
heart-shaped flowers appear on curved racemes. The plant does not               
ordinarily flower on February 14th, but could be made to do so                  
under controlled conditions. Ordinarily, it flowers in April                    
through early June, depending upon the part of the state in which               
you live.                                                                       
                                                                                
Early spring planting gives the best results for bleeding heart.                
Ordinarily, nurseries wait to ship planting stock until it is the               
correct planting time in your zone. Should your plant arrive                    
before the soil is workable, it may be stored for a week or two                 
in the refrigerator. Keep the plant in the original shipping                    
wrapper so it will not dry out.                                                 
                                                                                
The soil for dicentra should be rich in humus, and possess                      
excellent drainage in order for the plant to thrive and grow                    
healthy. Once planted, it thrives best when left alone in an                    
undisturbed environment.                                                        
                                                                                
Partial shade provides the best conditions for bleeding heart,                  
whether in the garden border or slipped in among shrubs so that                 
it is protected, but not crowded by the surrounding vegetation.                 
The foliage of garden bleeding heart is a rich green and its                    
texture is fine enough to add interest to the flower border and                 
provide contrast with the neighboring plants. Plants can grow                   
to a height of three feet, but two feet is more common. As the                  
summer progresses, the foliage is prone to die-back.                            
                                                                                
There is a variety known as D. spectabilis `Alba,' which is                     
white bleeding heart. Usually this plant is not as sturdy or                    
reliable as the species and more difficult to locate.                           
                                                                                
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How do I establish a bed of rhubarb?                                            
                                                                                
Rhubarb, or pie plant, is one of the least finicky, most hardy,                 
longest living garden perennials. It does require a period of                   
dormancy and therefore, depending upon the cultivar, may not do                 
well in hotter parts of the state.                                              
                                                                                
As with all perennials, there are two ways to get rootstock:                    
from your neighbors and friends, or from a nursery grower. If you               
have a friend who plans to separate a rhubarb plant in the                      
spring, show up on the day with a sharp spade. Dig carefully to                 
expose the root system. Using the spade, cut straight down                      
through the roots so that each section you separate from the main               
crown has at least one strong bud. Two or three clumps of roots                 
should be ample for most families. (Ten pounds of stalks is the                 
average consumption per person per season.)                                     
                                                                                
Alternatively, obtain roots through a nursery grower in very                    
early spring. If a choice of rhubarb root stocks is offered,                    
choose the newer, all-red varieties.                                            
                                                                                
You may want to test the pH of your soil before planting the                    
roots. Rhubarb will do well in a pH range between 5.5 and 7.0.                  
The ideal way to prepare the soil is to dig holes three feet to                 
four feet on center, each hole being two feet deep and two feet                 
across. Discard the subsoil. Line the bottom of each hole with                  
six to eight inches of well-rotted cow manure, and then fill the                
holes with a mixture of equal parts compost and topsoil. One                    
pound of 5-10-20 per 100 feet of row before plants are set is                   
recommended for this heavy feeder. Set the roots, one per hole,                 
so that the tops of the roots lie two inches below the surface.                 
Roots should be planted as soon as the soil is workable in the                  
spring.                                                                         
                                                                                
Since the plant is long-lived, be sure to situate it where it                   
will remain undisturbed for years. Every five years or so, each                 
clump of roots should be dug up and separated; in this way you                  
will be assured of thick, tender stalks. Plants left alone too                  
long will lose their vitality and produce only thin stalks.                     
                                                                                
Many gardeners mulch their rhubarb plants with decomposed cow                   
manure in the fall. In the spring they remove the mulch, fertili-               
ze, and then replace it to encourage thick, juicy stalks every                  
spring. Seedstalks should be cut if you ever see them forming, as               
they sap energy from the roots. It is preferable to obtain roots                
rather than start rhubarb from seeds; frequently, seeds are not                 
true to variety and take a long time to become established.                     
                                                                                
Because rhubarb stalks, like asparagus, are the result of                       
nutrients stored in the roots, it is important not to harvest the               
first year and harvest lightly the second year. Harvest from                    
early spring until June. Always grasp the base of each stalk and                
pull sharply. Don't cut stalks with a knife as large stubs left                 
by cutting may become diseased and cause the rhizomes to which                  
they are attached to rot. Beginning in the third year, harvest                  
only for about eight weeks.                                                     
                                                                                
Immediately after pulling stalks, cut the leaves from the                       
petiole; the stalks will retain their moisture much longer. While               
the stalks have been used as a fruit, the leaves are not used                   
because of their poisonous concentration of oxalic acid. Ingesti-               
on can cause gastroenteritis; damage can result from the formati-               
on of calcium oxalate in the victim's kidneys.                                  
                                                                                
Even though this plant is very pest resistant, you should watch                 
for Japanese beetle and rhubarb curculio infestation. Crown rot                 
might be another problem. Rot forms at the base of the leaf                     
stalks, and wilting progresses from stalk base to stalk base                    
until the plant dies. There is no remedy. Dig up the plant                      
carefully to remove the infected roots and as much of the                       
infected soil as possible. Burn or dispose of what you dig up; do               
not compost it.                                                                 
FEBRUARY 1986 QUESTION BOX                                                      
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan and Debbie Blosser,               
Horticulture Extension Technicians, working with Diane Relf,                    
Extension Specialist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener                   
Question Box has been developed for agent use in preparing radio                
and newspaper features.                                                         
                                                                                
EDITOR'S NOTE: In the January 1986 TVG Question Box, in reference               
to little-leaf linden: Foliage feeding insects such as Japanese                 
beetles can cause serious damage to little-leaf and American                    
lindens in areas where there are high populations of these                      
insects.                                                                        
                                                                                
                                                                                
Saffron                                       25 lines                          
Vegetable Gardening in the Shade              19 lines                          
Serviceberry                                  37 lines                          
Spanish Malibar Spinach                       15 lines                          
Terrace Construction                          20 lines                          
Storing Winter Squash                         14 lines                          
Pansies                                       25 lines                          
Cactus Blooming                               39 lines                          
Lithops (Living rocks)                        51 lines                          
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Where does the spice saffron come from?                                         
                                                                                
Saffron comes from the dried stigmas of Crocus sativus, autumn                  
crocus. Crocuses grow wild in the Mediterranean region and into                 
southwest Asia. They belong to the Iris family. There are more                  
than seventy-five species, and numerous forms or varieties.                     
Several are available through seed catalogs and garden centers.                 
                                                                                
Saffron flowers are called autumn crocus because as the weather                 
turns cold and the trees begin shedding their leaves, lovely                    
lilac flowers appear. Each flower has three scarlet-orange                      
stigmas which are collected, dried and used as a textile dye or                 
food spice.                                                                     
                                                                                
Purchase mature saffron plants or corms to observe the flowers.                 
New corms usually won't blossom for three years. The corms are                  
planted in late July to early August. Place them six inches deep                
and six inches apart. The soil should be light and rich; the                    
location sheltered.                                                             
                                                                                
If you expect to collect the stigmas, be sure to plant thousands                
of saffron as 60,000 stigmas weigh only a pound. Obviously, the                 
dried material is very expensive, and the spice sold is often                   
adulterated--or stretched--with arnica or calendula petals or                   
safflower florets.                                                              
                                                                                
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Part of my yard is shaded from a nearby tree. Since this is the                 
only place I can have a garden, are there any vegetables which                  
can be grown in that area?                                                      
                                                                                
Provided that this section of your garden is not densely shaded                 
and receives some direct sun, you should be able to grow many                   
leafy vegetables and root crops. Some of the vegetables to                      
consider include lettuce, Swiss chard, spinach, mustard greens,                 
cabbage, kale, chives, parsley, beets, radish, turnips and                      
carrots. Fruiting crops such as tomato, cucumber, sweet corn,                   
beans and squash require a minimun of 6 to 8 hours of direct                    
sunlight each day for good growth and yields and would not be                   
recommended for the shaded area of your garden.                                 
                                                                                
One other consideration about gardening in this area is the                     
location of the trees' roots. A shallow rooted tree would remove                
water and nutrients your garden needs. You might have to install                
irrigation and increase fertilization if this is the case. If                   
your garden is quite a distance from the tree itself, this may                  
not be necessary.                                                               
                                                                                
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I'm looking for a large shrub, 20' tall or more, with year-round                
interest. What should I plant?                                                  
                                                                                
Amelanchier, or serviceberry, is a plant which adds landscape                   
interest throughout the year. In April, it produces a profusion                 
of small white flowers which last only a week or so. In summer,                 
the foliage is finely textured and turns into a vivid display                   
ranging from yellow-orange to red as fall approaches. In midsum-                
mer small reddish, apple-like fruits appear. These can be                       
made into jelly when the fruit ripens. During winter months, the                
silvery bark and graceful branches and trunks are noticeable,                   
especially when outlined with fresh snow.                                       
                                                                                
Species of serviceberry reach 30-35 feet at maturity and can be                 
used as a large shrub or small tree. The plant is especially                    
attractive against a dark woodland background. It looks best                    
when incorporated into natural or informal settings.                            
                                                                                
Since the serviceberry is a member of the rose family, it                       
sometimes is affected by diseases and insects that cause problems               
on other members of the family such as apple, quince, and                       
crabapple. However, none of these problems are serious enough to                
discourage the use of the plant.                                                
                                                                                
The three most common species are Amelanchier canadensis (shad-                 
blow serviceberry), A. laevis (allegheny serviceberry), A. x                    
grandiflora (apple serviceberry). A. canadensis is a shrub with                 
erect stems and spreads by suckers at the base of the plant. It                 
will grow from 6 to 20 feet tall and has yellow to gold fall                    
color. White flowers are born on 2-3" long racemes and fruit is                 
black, juicy, and sweet. A. laevis has bronze-colored unfolding                 
leaves. Its fruit is black and sweet. A. x grandiflora is a                     
natural hybrid between A. arborea and A. laevis. The young                      
leaves of A. x grandiflora are purplish and pubescent. The                      
flowers are larger and the racemes longer and slimmer than on                   
the above species. Also, its flower buds are tinged in pink.                    
Unless flowers and developing leaves are present, these species                 
are difficult to accurately separate.                                           
                                                                                
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I just ordered Malabar spinach seeds. It was advertised as a                    
three-season, climbing spinach which does not bolt. Please                      
provide information on proper culture.                                          
                                                                                
For gardeners interested in a long production spinach crop,                     
Malabar spinach (Basella alba or B. rubra) may satisfy them. Also               
known as Ceylon Spinach and Vine Spinach, it is native to India.                
Although unrelated to spinach, it may be substituted for spinach                
in cooked foods.                                                                
                                                                                
Malabar spinach seed can be started under fluorescent light in                  
early spring, but do not place transplants outdoors until all                   
danger of frost has past. Germination at 70 degrees F with a                    
heating cable takes about seven days. Outdoors you can plant                    
seeds/plants 2-3 feet apart, six inches from a fence or trellis                 
as plants climb readily. Seeds should be sown 1" deep after the                 
last frost date in your area.                                                   
                                                                                
Malabar spinach is one of only a few leafy vegetables with a long               
production season. The more leaves harvested, the more new growth               
is produced. Two or three new leaves begin developing where one                 
leaf is pinched out. The process never quits until the plants are               
frost-killed in the fall. The crop is relatively disease and                    
insect-free but the fungus, Cercospora beticola sometimes causes                
leaf spotting. Infected leaves should be removed as soon as they                
are noticed.                                                                    
                                                                                
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We're thinking of adding a terrace to our house. What things                    
should we take into consideration when planning the design?                     
                                                                                
A terrace can be an attractive and useful addition to the home                  
landscape. It will enhance the value of your property and                       
provide a location for recreation and entertainment. A terrace                  
near the house will provide an extra outdoor room for family                    
living. From a landscapers' point of view, the terrace serves as                
a platform for the residence and improves the relationship of the               
house to the grounds.                                                           
                                                                                
The terrace should be located adjacent to the kitchen or family                 
room of the home. Make it large enough for the intended use.                    
Allow adequate space for tables and chairs and the easy movement                
of people. As a general rule, the terrace should be as wide as                  
the height of the house from the ground to the eaves. A narrow                  
terrace will look skimpy. The shape may carry out the lines of                  
the adjacent building, but may have an irregular free form if                   
appropriate shrubs and trees are planted nearby to soften the                   
lines.                                                                          
                                                                                
The surface of your terrace should be firm and relatively                       
smooth. It should slope gently down from the house to be sure                   
water drains away from the foundation. A paved terrace will                     
provide a smooth surface for chairs and tables, and is easy to                  
clean. You may prefer the design which can be secured from                      
bricks or flagstones. If such materials are used, install them                  
on a firm, well-drained sand or tamped cinder base. A brick or                  
flagstone terrace will be much easier to clean and maintain in                  
an attractive condition if the cracks are completely mortared.                  
                                                                                
Your terrace should be designed to provide privacy for your                     
picnic or entertainment use. It should not be a part of the                     
walk or drive system around the home. A wood or masonry fence                   
will provide a partial screen. Vines or espaliered trees will                   
add interest to your fence. Shrubs or small trees may also be                   
used as a screen, but will require more space than a fence. One                 
or more trees may be located in the lawn near the terrace to                    
provide shade from the late afternoon sun.                                      
                                                                                
Plan to include accessories which will make your terrace more                   
useful. Install electric lights and weatherproof receptacles.                   
This will extend the hours of use and provide power for outdoor                 
grills, radios, or other appliances. Flowering plants or shrubs                 
in pots or tubs will make your terrace more attractive.                         
                                                                                
Provide a storage place for the grill, folding chairs and other                 
items which are used on the terrace. If space is not available                  
in a nearby basement or garage, an attractive garden shed may be                
constructed. Screen the shed with shrubs to help it to blend                    
into the landscape picture.                                                     
                                                                                
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The winter squash I've stored in my basement are developing soft                
spots. The temperature is in the 50's. The squash are in bushel                 
baskets. Why aren't they keeping?                                               
                                                                                
Most winter squash should keep several months stored at 55                      
degrees F. and low humidity. If your basement is damp, you're                   
likely to have problems with mold and rot, especially with                      
squash piled on one another. Storing on open shelves, so fruit                  
do not touch one another, would be preferable. Avoid storing on                 
a cold concrete floor.                                                          
                                                                                
Storing squash with nicks, or other injuries will result in                     
storage problems. Use damaged fruits or any that got frost-nipped               
first. Store only unblemished squash. Check frequently and use                  
any that show signs of deterioration.                                           
                                                                                
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When is the best time to plant pansies?  Should I plant seed or                 
set out transplants?                                                            
                                                                                
Pansy seeds for spring bloom are customarily started indoors in                 
midwinter and carefully "hardened off" by gradual exposure to the               
elements. Sow seeds in a flat and cover with 1/8" of soil. At                   
65 degrees F,  pansy seeds will take about 10 days to germinate.                
Give seedlings night temperature of 50 degrees F. for 10 to 12                  
weeks. Move to the garden 2 weeks before average last frost date.               
                                                                                
Pansy transplants can endure spring weather that is cold and                    
damp. On the first dry day in early spring, "set in" a border                   
or bed of pansy plants. Despite light frosts, rain or snow                      
showers, they will develop blooms.                                              
                                                                                
Pansies have large flowers, up to 3 inches in diameter during                   
cool weather. They decline in warm weather. First, the blossoms                 
decrease in size; then plants begin to die. Don't fight it.                     
Except where summers are short and cool you are better off                      
putting in a second planting for fall bloom.                                    
                                                                                
It's a much simpler matter to grow pansies for fall bloom because               
seeds can be sown directly in the garden during late summer. If                 
an early fall catches the young pansy plants before they bloom,                 
don't worry. Except where winters are long and extremely bitter,                
they will live over and bloom the following spring.                             
                                                                                
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Do cactus bloom?  If so, how can I get mine to flower?                          
                                                                                
Most house plant cacti fail to bloom because they don't get                     
enough light. This can be easily remedied. Cacti take very well                 
to artificial lighting, so you can either grow them totally                     
dependent on fluorescent tubes or you can supplement their                      
natural light. The other major cause of flowerless cacti is the                 
lack of a dormant period. Their native homes offer them cool                    
temperatures and very little water in the winter. These plants                  
expect this period of dormancy in order to blossom when weather                 
changes in the spring. Most cacti need very cold air all winter                 
and lower light intensity to set buds. This dormancy period is a                
little tricky but is essential.                                                 
                                                                                
Beginning in October or November, place cacti on a window sill                  
between the window and the curtain. The temperature in this space               
can drop to between 40 and 50 degrees F but make sure freezing                  
does not occur. Cacti need short days or limited exposure to                    
artificial lights in order to form flower buds. In autumn, they                 
will receive this requirement naturally.                                        
                                                                                
At the same time, give the cacti a drought period by only                       
watering them when they begin to shrivel a bit (every 6 to 8                    
weeks). In March, when the days get longer and warmer, water the                
plants about every 2 weeks. Cacti will bloom in the spring.                     
                                                                                
Contrary to popular belief, cacti don't have to be very old to                  
blossom, nor do they flower only once in seven years. A mature,                 
healthy cactus flowers annually if it is treated to the right                   
conditions. Once a plant has bloomed, you can expect to enjoy its               
flowers every year. If it fails to produce blossoms twelve                      
months later, you are doing something wrong. On the other hand,                 
an immature cactus, won't bloom regardless of its treatment. Some               
take years and others need a lot of space to become fully mature                
enough to flower. Others are incapable of maturing in a container               
of any kind, but these aren't often sold as house plants.                       
Those that are available in pots or that can be purchased through               
the mail can and will flower if treated properly.                               
January 1986 Question Box                                                       
                                                                                
This material was prepared by Virginia Nathan and Debbie Blosser,               
Horticulture Extension Technicians, working with Diane Relf,                    
Extension Specialist Home Horticulture. The Virginia Gardener                   
Question Box has been developed for agent use in preparing radio                
and newspaper features.                                                         
                                                                                
EDITOR'S NOTE: In the November 1985 TVG Question Box, in referen-               
ce to acidifying soil: Although aluminum sulfate has traditional-               
ly been recommended to lower pH, in some soils it may build up to               
toxic levels (ie. heavy metal accumulation). Consult with the                   
Extension Specialists in Agronomy for correct recommendations                   
for your area.                                                                  
                                                                                
JANUARY TOPICS                                                                  
                                                                                
Wire imbedded in tree trunk                  14 lines                           
Jade plant                                   15 lines                           
Vacation watering of houseplants             21 lines                           
Little-leaf linden                           27 lines                           
Slow release fertilizer                      31 lines                           
Tissue culture                               31 lines                           
Spaghetti squash                             15 lines                           
Tayberry                                     22 lines                           
Juniper identification                       18 lines                           
Venus fly trap/carnivorous plants            40 lines                           
Micronutrients                               38 lines                           
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
Will a wire growing around a tree trunk harm the tree?                          
                                                                                
Wires which become embedded in bark can be very destructive to a                
tree. Although the wire will rust, it won't disintegrate.                       
Therefore, as the bark, and then the wood, envelop the wire, the                
obstruction interferes with water and nutrient flow. Conse-                     
quently, the tree may die. In addition, the wire may cause the                  
tree to become weak at this point and it may break in high                      
winds. Also, in years to come, if the tree is cut down for                      
firewood, the hidden metal may ruin the saw or pieces of metal                  
may fly up and hurt someone.                                                    
                                                                                
If the wire is near the surface, using pliers or a vice grip, try               
to remove the fencing but remember all tree wounds provide an                   
entrance for insects and pathogens. Therefore, if the wire is                   
deeply embedded, just cut the fence and route it away from the                  
tree to prevent further damage.                                                 
                                                                                
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Does jade ever flower?  How long will a jade plant live?                        
                                                                                
The common jade, one of the most popular house plants, is valued                
primarily for its glossy green leaves. It seldom flowers under                  
household conditions unless subjected to high light intensity. A                
healthy plant several years old grown in a sunny window with an                 
adequate water supply may display clusters of pale pink blossoms                
occasionally.                                                                   
                                                                                
Jade thrives as a foliage plant under a wide range of environmen-               
tal conditions. It tolerates low light levels, hot dry air and                  
infrequent watering. It propagates readily from cuttings which                  
grow quickly to respectable size. Given good care, a plant will                 
live as long as you or I.                                                       
                                                                                
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I am planning my vacation and have been unable to find anyone to                
tend my plants while I'm gone. Is there anyway to keep them                     
watered?                                                                        
                                                                                
To keep potted plants watered while you're away, all you need is                
heavy cotton clothesline, a sink or large container filled with                 
water, and several objects to act as weights. Cut the clothesline               
into lengths long enough to reach from the bottom of the water-f-               
illed sink or container to the soil of each plant. Weight                       
the ends down that are in the water; insert the other end into                  
the soil by making a hole with a pencil and then firm the soil                  
around the clothesline. Start the siphon action by watering the                 
plant. Be sure to place saucers under plants to catch excess                    
water.                                                                          
                                                                                
Water plants in this manner the day before you leave to be sure                 
that the system is working properly for all the plants. A three                 
gallon container will water six plants in 6" pots for ten days in               
a house with normal relative humidity. If your home is very dry,                
make more water available. Because this method tends to over-                   
water some plants, which may result in disease problems, use this               
watering system only as a temporary measure.                                    
                                                                                
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Our neighborhood planning committee has selected little-leaf                    
lindens as street trees in front of our home. What do they look                 
like? What kind of care will be required?                                       
                                                                                
The little leaf linden, Tilia cordata, often is called the                      
small-leaved European linden. The tree is easily recognized at a                
distance, particularly in winter, because of its symmetrical,                   
almost sheared, appearance. As a young tree it is mostly conical                
in shape but as it matures it develops a nearly columnar growth                 
habit. The leaves are 1 1/2 to 3 inches long and nearly as wide.                
You may look forward to small but fragrant yellowish flowers in                 
early summer. In a well-drained soil, little-leaf linden will                   
easily produce eighteen to twenty-four inches of growth a year.                 
                                                                                
Little leaf linden is a strong tree rarely subject to the                       
breakage from ice or snow. In addition, it falls prey to few                    
insect pests and diseases. Aphids, while occasionally present in                
the trees, are usually of little consequence to the plant's                     
overall health. Perhaps the worst enemy of the linden is man,                   
himself, when he plants the tree in a heavy clay soil with poor                 
drainage and overfertilizes, or when he applies herbicides over                 
the root system.                                                                
                                                                                
Little leaf linden is widely used on the streets in Europe and                  
has gained favor in many American cities. Crosses, using little                 
leaf linden as one of the parents, have also resulted in some                   
useful trees for the landscape, including the Crimean linden.                   
                                                                                
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A plant which was given to me last month has little tan balls                   
appearing on the soil surface. What kind of eggs could they be?                 
How should I treat for it?                                                      
                                                                                
Chances are the spheres appearing on the soil surface are not                   
eggs at all, but slow-release fertilizer pellets. Slow-release                  
fertilizer is supposed to release nutrients at the same rate they               
are taken up by the plants.                                                     
                                                                                
The slow release fertilizer used on most indoor plants is                       
composed of granular fertilizer coated with resin to control the                
rate of nutrient release from the granules into the soil. When                  
the resin-coated granules come in contact with water, the resin                 
swells and the pores increases in size allowing the fertilizer                  
to dissolve and move into the soil. Release rate depends on the                 
coating thickness, temperature, and water content of the soil.                  
Release timing can be from 1 to 6 months depending on the                       
coating.                                                                        
                                                                                
Slow release fertilizers provide benefits to both the plant owner               
and the plant. The grower only needs to reapply the fertilizer                  
every few months depending on the formulation. Fertilizer                       
concentrations higher than usual can be applied as there is                     
little danger from fertilizer burn. Plants may use the nitrogen                 
in slow release fertilizers more efficiently than in other forms                
since it is continually being released at the proper rate. The                  
plants also do not experience "feast or famine" in regard to the                
rate at which they recieve nutrients. One should consider                       
two other aspects about slow release fertilizers before before                  
opting to use them: 1) they are generally more expensive than                   
other types of fertilization; 2) they may encourage excess growth               
in plants you would prefer to keep small.                                       
                                                                                
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I hear a lot about tissue culture as the new way to propagate                   
plants? What does this involve?                                                 
                                                                                
Plant tissue culture techniques have become important for the                   
study of a wide range of problems in plant research. Although                   
technical prodecures for tissue culture are diverse and sometimes               
complicated, a simplified procedure can be followed in the home.                
All that is needed are a few basic supplies which can easily be                 
obtained at local grocery stores.                                               
                                                                                
The procedures can be used in the home to propagate various                     
species of plants which are either easy (African violets, coleus,               
chrysanthemums) or difficult (orchids, ferns, weeping figs) to                  
propagate. Small, actively growing portions usually result in the               
most vigorous plantlets. For example, ferns are most readily                    
propagated by using only 1/2 inch of the tip of a rhizome. For                  
other species, 1/2 to 1 inch of the shoot tip is sufficient.                    
                                                                                
Plant parts to be tissue cultured are first disinfected in a                    
dilute solution of bleach, then transferred to a sterile contain-               
er (such as a baby food jar) filled with a specially prepared                   
culture medium. This is then placed in a warm, well-lighted                     
environment to encourage growth.                                                
                                                                                
When plantlets have grown to a sufficient size, they are trans-                 
planted into a light media. Transplanting should be as gentle as                
possible because the plants are leaving a warm, humid environment               
for a harsher, drier one. If you would like complete instruc-                   
tions, request publication 426-385 Plant Tissue Culture for the                 
Homeowner. (Excerpt from article an by Mark Bridgen, Graduate                   
Assistant, and Richard Veilleux, Assistant Professor, Horti-                    
culture, Virginia Tech.)                                                        
                                                                                
 --------------                                                                 
                                                                                
What is "spaghetti squash"?                                                     
                                                                                
Spaghetti squash is a vegetable that is rapidly moving off the                  
"unusual" list because it is becoming so popular. A substitute                  
for noodles, this winter squash is simply boiled or baked and the               
pulp, when "fluffed out" with a fork, looks like noodles and                    
tastes delicious served with a sauce or butter. Spaghetti squash                
is grown like other vining winter squash and is susceptible to                  
the same problems. The vine spreads over a large area but has                   
been successfully trellised on a heavy tomato cage; each squash                 
being supported by a net sling to prevent its pulling the vine                  
down or falling off. Because they have a long growing season,                   
they should be started early. Spaghetti squash are ready to                     
harvest when they turn light yellow. Most seed companies carry                  
spaghetti squash sometimes calling it vegetable spaghetti.                      
                                                                                
 ------------                                                                   
                                                                                
I am seeing a new type of raspberry in seed catalogs. It is                     
called tayberry. What can you tell me about it?                                 
                                                                                
The tayberry, a result of a Scottish breeding program, is an                    
offspring of two very different bramble plants, the blackberry                  
and the red raspberry. Although it resembles the logenberry, its                
fruit are considerably larger and more conical. It pulls from the               
bush much like the blackberry where the core remains with the                   
fruit rather than staying attached to the plant as is the case                  
for the raspberry.                                                              
                                                                                
Tayberry's growth habit more resembles that of the spreading                    
blackberry than the raspberry. Some outstanding yields have been                
obtained from these plants under experimental growing conditions.               
Because they are propagated by tissue culture, which requires                   
special facilities and techniques, their price is greater than                  
that of similar plants. However, tissue culture insures that the                
brambles will be vigorous, superior plants.                                     
                                                                                
Tayberry plants are not widely available at present. However,                   
they deserve to be planted by all home gardeners interested in                  
bramble production. (Excerpt from article by Jerry Williams,                    
Assistant Professor, Horticulture, Virginia Tech)                               
                                                                                
 --------------                                                                 
                                                                                
Do you have any tips for telling junipers apart?                                
                                                                                
The foliage of junipers are of two distinct kinds: the juvenile                 
stage with sharp-pointed, prickly needles, and the adult,                       
scale-like formation. The prickly needles may predominate in one                
tree, the scale-like needles in another. Both kinds frequently                  
appear on the same tree, either permanently or in the                           
transitional stage.                                                             
                                                                                
Aside from the division of juniper foliage as either juvenile or                
adult, there is little help in distinguishing junipers from                     
foliage alone. Identification of junipers is mainly reduced to a                
consideration of the color of the foliage and the habit of the                  
plant. Because of characteristic differences in this regard, it                 
is necessary to become familiar with shapes and colors exhibited                
in various species and varieties. However, junipers may be easily               
distinguished from other genera of evergreens if they are found                 
with their semi-fleshy, bluish or reddish-brown cones often                     
called "juniper berries."                                                       
                                                                                
 -------------                                                                  
                                                                                
A friend gave me a Venus fly trap. Does this plant really eat                   
flies?                                                                          
                                                                                
Carnivorous plants, such as Venus fly trap, are true botanical                  
oddities. Many of these meat-eating plants evolved as a result of               
a habitat deficient in nitrogen, which is required for growth,                  
development, and reproduction.                                                  
                                                                                
All carnivorous plants can be grouped into three major categories               
(active, semi-active, or passive) based on the way they ensnare                 
their prey. Active traps, like Venus fly trap and bladderworts,                 
employ swift movements to prevent escape by prey. Semi-active                   
traps move much more slowly and generally have sticky, viscous                  
liquids to detain the victim in the interim; sundews and butterw-               
orts fit into this category. Finally, some carnivorous plants                   
must rely on peculiar shaped leaves to attract and trap insects.                
Such a mechanism is called passive since the trapping does not                  
involve leaf movement, only a clever arrangement of hairs and                   
other leaf modifications which permit the prey to travel in only                
one direction. Pitcher plants are representative of this categor-               
y.                                                                              
                                                                                
On Venus fly trap, the end of each leaf consists of two matching                
pads, outlined with needle-like teeth. Both pads are hinged                     
together and have the ability to open and close in the same way a               
clam or scallop does. This highly specialized ability is control-               
led by three sensory hairs projecting from the internal surface                 
of each pad. Trap closure depends on repeated stimulation, or                   
touching, of these hairs. This characteristic insures that if a                 
leaf or twig falls upon the trap with a single impact, it will                  
not cause the plant to expend energy enclosing a useless object.                
However, a potential victim stumbling over the hairs several                    
times will cause immediate entrapment.                                          
                                                                                
The Venus fly-trap (Dionaea muscipula) grows primarily in certain               
boggy areas within North Carolina. The Venus fly trap has been                  
placed on the endangered species list since careless and greedy                 
collecting occurred throughout the past. Vegetatively propagated                
plants are generally inexpensive and readily available from local               
or mail order sources.(Excerpt from article by Robert E. Lyons,                 
Assistant Professor, Horticulture, Virginia Tech)                               
                                                                                
 -------------                                                                  
                                                                                
Some fertilizers (the expensive ones) contain micronutrients. Do                
my plants need these?                                                           
                                                                                
To understand the role that fertilization plays in supplying                    
plant nutrients, it is necessary to look at the plants's total                  
nutritional needs. Plants require 16 elements for proper growth                 
and development. Three of these 16 elements (carbon, hydrogen,                  
and oxygen) come directly from air and water. The remaining 13                  
elements come from the soil. In naturally occurring ecosystems,                 
most soils are able to supply adequate amounts of these 13                      
elements to support plant growth as can be seen by viewing our                  
native woodlands. In the production of crops and house plants,                  
however, it is necessary to supplement some of the nutrients in                 
the soil with fertilizer.                                                       
                                                                                
The 13 elements provided by the soil can be broken into 2                       
categories: those required by plants in large amounts, the                      
macronutrients, and those required by plants in small amounts,                  
the micronutrients or trace elements. The macronutrients consist                
of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium. magnesium and                      
sulfur. The micronutrients or trace elements consist of zinc,                   
manganese, copper, iron, boron, molybdenum, and chlorine.                       
                                                                                
Trace elements are not normally supplied on a regular basis,                    
since the soil is usually able to supply the small amounts needed               
for plant growth. However, occasions do arise where on certain                  
soils and for certain crops, it is necessary to apply one or more               
of these trace elements. This is normally the exception rather                  
than the rule in crop production. Inadequate trace element                      
supplies can often be corrected by adjusting the soil pH to the                 
proper level, since pH has a direct effect on the availability of               
many soil nutrients.                                                            
                                                                                
To determine the nutrient requirements of your crop, have your                  
soil tested on a regular basis. Your county extension agent will                
provide you with the necessary information and materials for                    
taking and submitting a soil sample for analysis. (Excerpt from                 
an article by Stephen J. Donohue, Extension Specialist, Soil and                
Plant Analysis)                                                                 
                                                                                
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
SCRIPT/VS 3.0.1: DEVICE 1403W6 CHARS MONO                                      
{                                                                               
                                                                               
                                Apple - Insects                                
                                _______________                                
                                                                               
     1.  Rosy  apple  aphids  cause curl and deformation of small fruits by    
         feeding on buds and young leaves.                                     
                                                                               
     2.  These aphids lay eggs in late fall on twigs or in  bark  crevices,    
         so a delayed dormant oil spray is very helpful in smothering aphid    
         eggs.                                                                 
                                                                               
     3.  The green apple worm damages apples by eating from the side or end    
         of the young green apple.                                             
                                                                               
     4.  The  eggs  are lain in early spring on twigs and branches, and the    
         larvae begin feeding on very small fruit as they hatch.               
                                                                               
     5.  Apples that are not totally consumed may  be  badly  blemished  by    
         scars from the worms' feeding.                                        
                                                                               
     6.  European  red mites are serious pests of apples, especially damag-    
         ing after the use of  certain  insecticides  which  destroy  their    
         predators.  Bright-red  or  orange  eggs  on  stalks overwinter on    
         branches and twigs, hatching  into  red  nymphs  which  grow  into    
         adults  only  about 1/50" long. The mites puncture leaves and suck    
         juices out, turning the leaves a bronze color, looking as if  they    
         were  covered  with dust. This mite does not produce much webbing,    
         one characteristic that  distinguishes  it  from  the  two-spotted    
         mite, which also is a pest of apples.                                 
                                                                               
     7.  Dormant oil appled to apples is helpful in destroying the eggs and    
         preventing damage.                                                    
                                                                               
     8.  The  codling  moth  is usually the adult of the "proverbial" apple    
         worm which is a serious pest of apples and  other  fruits,  boring    
         holes into the side or blossom end of the fruit and eating its way    
         through the flesh.                                                    
                                                                               
     9.  The  larva  overwinters in a silky cocoon underneath loose bark on    
         in debris on the ground.                                              
                                                                               
     10. The redbanded leafroller is another caterpillar capable of causing    
         serious damage to apple crops. The young worms feed on leaves  and    
         fruit. They roll and tie leaves and terminal growth.                  
                                                                               
     11. At maturity feeding by the leafroller appears as russeted scars on    
         the fruit.                                                            
                                                                               
     12. The  full-grown caterpillars pupate inside rolled leaves or make a    
         flimsy cocoon on the trunk or branches. The moth emerges  in  late    
         June or July.                                                         
                                                                               
     13. The  Oriental fruit moth injures fruit in a manner similar to that    
         of the codling moth, but the larva enters through the stem instead    
                                                                               
                                                                          1    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
         of the outside of the apple, and damage may not be  evident  until    
         late in the fruit's development.                                      
                                                                               
     14. The  corn  earworm,  also  known  as  tomato  fruitworm and cotton    
         bollworm, has no qualms about attacking apples,  too.  This  is  a    
         rare  occurrence,  but  may be the result of letting grass get too    
         tall in the orchard.                                                  
                                                                               
     15. San Jose Scale is common pest of many fruit  trees  and  landscape    
         plants.                                                               
                                                                               
     16. On  apples,  a red inflammed-looking area around the scale is com-    
         mon. Dorman oil in January controls this scale.                       
                                                                               
     17. Young  apple  trees  may  be  seen  with  mysterious  girdled   or    
         partially-girdled areas on stems or trunks.                           
                                                                               
     18. One possible culprit, if the season is summer, is the grasshopper.    
         In  winter, girdling damage is more likely done by larger animals,    
         such as mice, rabbits or deer.                                        
                                                                               
     19. The apple leafhopper causes foliage to turn pale; the  upper  sur-    
         face  has  white  specks  and the lower side is covered with dark-    
         colored excrement and white cast skins.                               
                                                                               
     20. This is the leafhopper. There is no relation  between  the  insect    
         and the cracking of this fruit, which was caused by high humidity.    
                                                                               
     21. Woolly  apple  aphids  are found in white cottony masses on trunks    
         and branches. The aphids feed on roots, forming knots and  causing    
         stunting and even death of young trees.                               
                                                                               
     22. Blank                                                                 
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                          2    
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
SCRIPT/VS 3.0.1: DEVICE 1403W6 CHARS MONO                                      
{                                                                               
                                                                               
                                FRUIT DISORDERS                                
                                _______________                                
                                                                               
     APPLE                                                                     
     _____                                                                     
                                                                               
     1.  The  goal of growing the perfect apple may be thwarted by many na-    
         tural events.                                                         
                                                                               
     2.  Beginning in early spring,  the  tender  buds  must  survive  late    
         frosts ...                                                            
                                                                               
     3.  which can cause injury both to leaves...                              
                                                                               
     4.  and newly-opened flowers. Browning of flower petals...                
                                                                               
     5.  and  puckering  of  leaves are signs of frost injury. This cupping    
         occurs because the lower side of the leaf stops growing. The lower    
         epidermis will be stretched across the cupped  part  like  a  drum    
         head.                                                                 
                                                                               
     6.  Frost injury to young fruit may result in russeting...                
                                                                               
     7.  which may appear as bands or circles on the fruit...                  
                                                                               
     8.  or in vertical stripes as shown here.                                 
                                                                               
     9.  Rings around the calyx end of the apple...                            
                                                                               
     10. may  also  indicate  cold  injury, and can be a point of entry for    
         secondary disease organisms.                                          
                                                                               
     11. Severe russeting has runied the appearance of these apples.           
                                                                               
     12. The trunk of the apple tree itself can also be damaged by a combi-    
         nation of severe cold and sunscald, which occurs when cold bark is    
         warmed quickly by the sun. This is most likely to occur on  south-    
         ern  exposures  of the tree. The damaged bark splits, exposing the    
         inner tissues to invasion by insects and disease. Dry soil  inten-    
         sifies this problem.                                                  
                                                                               
     13. Later  in  the season, largle apples may be damaged by hail.  This    
         is an invitation to pest problems, though the hail  damage  itself    
         may or may not be severe.                                             
                                                                               
     14. Chimera, which comes from the Greek word "fabulous monster," after    
         a  mythical beast with the head of a lion, the body of a goat, and    
         the tail of a dragon, is not quite so fabulous a phenomenon in ap-    
         ples, but may result in a good exhibit for the unusual fruit prize    
         at the county fair. Chimera is caused by a  genetic  mutation  in-    
         volving only one area of tissue.                                      
                                                                               
     15. Another relatively rare disorder is triple fruit, caused by...        
                                                                               
                                                                          1    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     16. drought affects trees as well as herbaceous plants if it is severe    
         enough. Young trees are especially susceptible and should be irri-    
         gated during prolonged dry periods.                                   
                                                                               
     17. Calcium  toxicity (or excess) appears as bleached or scorched leaf    
         margins.                                                              
                                                                               
     18. Leaves turning pale, with dark green veins, may indicate herbicide    
         injury.                                                               
                                                                               
     19. Bitter pitis a physiological disorder most important in stored ap-    
         ples. It is associated with irregular moisture  supply,  imbalance    
         of  nutrients, or other factors. Round, sunken spots appear on the    
         skin, and dark, corky areas with a bitter taste form in the flesh.    
                                                                               
     20. Brown, corky spots, causing some deformation of the fruit may  ap-    
         pear, especially during drought periods.                              
                                                                               
     21. Cork  spot  is caused by boron deficiency and can be controlled by    
         applying boron at recommended doses when testing indicates  it  is    
         needed.                                                               
                                                                               
     22. Fruit  trees  are susceptible to damage by mice, especially during    
         winter and in plantings with organic mulches or  other  protective    
         cover that surrounds the tree trunk.                                  
                                                                               
     23. Mice simply gnaw off bark at the tree base, sometimes girdling the    
         plant, with obvious consequences.                                     
                                                                               
     24. Tree  guards  are helpful in preventing this problem. Cats provide    
         some biological control.                                              
                                                                               
     25. However, cats can cause their own problems  if  better  scratching    
         posts are not available.                                              
                                                                               
     26. Tree guards reduce both animal and mechanical damage.                 
                                                                               
     27. This  is not a modern Indian totem pole. It is sapsucker damage to    
         an apple tree.                                                        
                                                                               
     28. Blank                                                                 
                                                                               
                                      PEACHES                                  
                                      _______                                  
                                                                               
     29. This table shows the major causes of trouble with peaches.  Though    
         insects  and  diseases  are  important, the major portion of peach    
         disorders may be preventable with good planting conditions.           
                                                                               
     30. One of themost important  factors  is  frost  resistance.  Peaches    
         planted in an area where frosts are likely during bloom period...     
                                                                               
     31. are susceptible to severe cold injury.                                
                                                                               
                                                                          2    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     32. Blossoms  are killed by late frosts in spring, and so the tree may    
         produce little or no fruit.                                           
                                                                               
     33. The young fruit is also susceptible to cold damage.                   
                                                                               
     34. Fruits may be stunted in size if they do grow.                        
                                                                               
     35. Or they may develop corky spots on the skin.                          
                                                                               
     36. (Ed Phillips' idea of art) ??                                         
                                                                               
     37. Catfacing may also be the result of cold injury to fruit.             
                                                                               
     38. Peach trees themselves are often damaged by winter cold.              
                                                                               
     39. Splitting bark is symptomatic.                                        
                                                                               
     40. A split trunk can mean the end of a peach tree.                       
                                                                               
     41. Blackened wood of a cold-damaged limb.                                
                                                                               
     42. One way to prevent injury caused by bark warming up too quickly is    
         by whitewashing trunks to reflect sunlight.                           
                                                                               
     43. Of course peach trees are susceptible to  breakage  by  ice.  Some    
         breakage  due  to  heavy loads of ice or fruit can be prevented by    
         choosing branches with wide crotch angles when pruning and  train-    
         ing.                                                                  
                                                                               
     44. Sunscald  on  peaches causes the same type of split bark injury as    
         on apple trees.                                                       
                                                                               
     45. Here the bark peeled back from the crack,  resulting  in  a  large    
         amount of exposed wood.                                               
                                                                               
     46. Hail damage on young peach twigs can cause severe wounds.             
                                                                               
     47. The tender peach fruit is easily damaged by hail also.                
                                                                               
     48. Hail damage on ripening fruit.                                        
                                                                               
     49. Peach  trees are badly affected by poor soil conditions. One thing    
         they cannot tolerate is standing water.                               
                                                                               
     50. Trees growing in  wet  spots  are  stunted  with  sparse  foliage.    
         Leaves are dwarfed and roots, twigs and branches die back.            
                                                                               
     51. Drought also causes damage to peach fruit.                            
                                                                               
     52. On  the  other  hand, trees that have been over-irrigated may have    
         fruit with watery areas around the pit.                               
                                                                               
     53. Spray injury to peach trees results in necrotic areas on leaves...    
                                                                               
                                                                          3    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     54. that drop out, leaving holes in the leaves.                           
                                                                               
     55. "Burned" leaf margins may indicate toxic levels of fertilizer.        
                                                                               
     56. Mechanical injuries result from tools and machines or other  phys-    
         ical causes.                                                          
                                                                               
     57. These can have various effects.                                       
                                                                               
     58. Open wounds are subject to invasion by diseases and insects.          
                                                                               
     59. Mouse  damage occurs near the base of the tree and can even be se-    
         vere enough to girdle the plant.                                      
                                                                               
     60. Pollution injury to peaches may be  seen  as  blackened  spots  on    
         leaves...                                                             
                                                                               
     61. or  a  peculiar deformity of fruit. Peaches are classified as very    
         sensitive to a number of major polluntants.                           
                                                                               
     62. If there is doubt as to whether pollution is causing the  problem,    
         observe pines in the area. Many react to polluntants with this or-    
         ange coloration or bleaching of the needles.                          
                                                                               
                                    TO THE AGENT                               
                                    ____________                               
                                                                               
            Very  little  attempt has been made to include control measures    
         on these slides, since chemicals may  become  outdated  and  since    
         master gardeners would probably not remember enough from the slide    
         show  to  be  effective.  Instead, it is recommended that you make    
         recommendations as you go along, based  on  your  experience,  and    
         that  the master garderner have access to the current Pest Manage-    
         ment Guide 17, "Chemical Pest Control Information for  Home  Fruit    
         Production," as well as a diagnostic guide or key.                    
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                          4    
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
1                                                                               
                                                                                
                                                                                
 CARE OF GARDEN EQUIPMENT                                                       
0Clean-up  of  tools  and   equipment  is  another  important                   
 practice related to  the garden which should  not be ignored                   
 in the fall.   Proper clean-up of  tools now will leave them                   
 in top shape and ready to use when spring comes.  Clean, oil                   
 and mend all hand tools.   Repaint handles or identification                   
 marks that have faded over  the summer.   Sharpen all blades                   
 and remove any rust.   Power tools  should be cleaned of all                   
 plant material and dirt.   Replace worn spark plugs, oil all                   
 necessary parts  and sharpen  blades.   Store  all tools  in                   
 their proper place indoors,  never  outdoors where they will                   
 rust over the winter.                                                          
0Unless you  are lucky enough  to live  in a warm  area where                   
 your cold frame will protect vegetables all winter, you will                   
 need to  clean up  the frame when  all vegetables  have been                   
 harvested.   Remove all remaining  plant material and spread                   
 it on the cold frame soil.    Spade the plant refuse and any                   
 other organic  material into the soil  in the cold  frame as                   
 thoroughly as possible.    Do not leave the top  on the cold                   
 frame over the winter, as the cold air or the weight of snow                   
 may crack  or break  the glass.   Remove  the top,   wash it                   
 thoroughly,  and store it on its  side in a protected indoor                   
 area where it will not get broken.                                             
0Successful  gardening doesn't  stop when  frost comes,   but                   
 continues throughout the fall and early winter months.  When                   
 following good garden care practices during this time,  your                   
 garden will  be ready for  the growth of  healthy vegetables                   
 next spring.                                                                   
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
SCRIPT/VS 3.0.1: DEVICE 1403W6 CHARS MONO                                      
{                                                                               
                                                                               
                      LANDSCAPING FOR YEAR ROUND INTEREST                      
                      ___________________________________                      
                             By: Albert S. Beecher                             
                           Department of Horticulture                          
              Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University              
                                                                               
                                                                               
        In  Virginia with the wide selection of plant material available it    
     is possible to develop landscaping that is of interest  twelve  months    
     of  the year.  Most folks associate color with flowering plants.  But,    
     it is well to remember that flowers are very transient and last only a    
     few weeks at the most.  Year-round interest in the yard can be  devel-    
     oped  by  considering some of the other characteristics of plants like    
     colorful bark, colorful fruit and interesting foliage.   In  addition,    
     interest  can be provided through the use of rocks, water, wood as ar-    
     chitectural features.                                                     
                                                                               
     1.  Colorful bark can serve as a point of interest  twelve  months  of    
         the  year.    The  Sycamore has striking bark but is too large for    
         most residential landscapes.                                          
                                                                               
     2.  The White Birch is another tree with colorful bark.   It  is  most    
         effective against a green background.  The foliage of the birch is    
         of interest especially in the spring when it first appears.           
                                                                               
     3.  The  Crape  Myrtle  is  a good example of a plant with interesting    
         bark.  It also has attractive summer flowers and fall foliage.        
                                                                               
     4.  The Crape Myrtle in flower.  This shrub is not fully hardy in ele-    
         vated exposed locations in western and northern Virginia.   During    
         severe  winters  it  may  be killed to the ground but will usually    
         grow back from the root the next year.                                
                                                                               
     5.  Fall foliage of the crape myrtle.                                     
                                                                               
     6.  Many shrubs add color to the  landscape  because  of  their  showy    
         fruit.    The  pyracantha has orange or red berries depending upon    
         the variety.  The color of the fruit  is  very  effective  in  the    
         fall.                                                                 
                                                                               
     7.  The  Nandina  (Nandina  domestica)  has  showy fruit and evergreen    
         foliage.  This shrub may be killed back during severe  winters  in    
         western Virginia.                                                     
                                                                               
     8.  The  American  holly  (Ilex opaca) makes an ideal year round plant    
         because of its broadleaf foliage.  In this garden it serves  as  a    
         focal point.                                                          
                                                                               
     9.  The  fruit  of  the  female  American holly.   Male plants must be    
         planted near female shrubs if a good crop of berries is to be  se-    
         cured.                                                                
                                                                               
                                                                          1    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     10. A   yellow   fruited  form  of  the  American  holly  (Ilex  opaca    
         xanthocarpa).  The fruits should be retained and remain attractive    
         until midwinter.                                                      
                                                                               
     11. The Mountain Ash (Sorbus aucuporia) is a small tree with a  summer    
         display  of  fruit.    The fruit are eaten by birds or fall off in    
         early winter.                                                         
                                                                               
     12. Some plants are of interest because of their showy  fall  foilage.    
         The Sugar Maple (Acer Saccharum) is shown here.                       
                                                                               
     13. The Scarlet Oak (Quercus Coccinea) showing fall coloration.           
                                                                               
     14. The winged Euonymous (Euonymous alatus) or Burning Bush is a shrub    
         with brilliant color in the fall.                                     
                                                                               
     15. A flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) with its fall coloration.        
                                                                               
     16. The same dogwood plant showing the flower color in the spring.        
                                                                               
     17. Several  pink  dogwoods  planted together to form a mass of flower    
         color.  Also in bloom is the white flowering crab apple.              
                                                                               
     18. The same mass of dogwoods showing fall coloration.                    
                                                                               
     19. Interesting  year  round  color  can  be  found  in  some  of  our    
         Evergreens.  Golden forms of Chamaecyparis are available.             
                                                                               
     20. Blue colors are found in some Evergreens.   Shown here is the Blue    
         Atlas Cedar (Cedrus Atlantica Glauca).                                
                                                                               
     21. Deciduous  shrubs and trees with colorful summer foliage are espe-    
         cially good to provide a focal point or a mass display  of  color.    
         These Japanese Red Maple (Acer palmatum) are an example.              
                                                                               
     22. Brilliant summer foliage of the Purple Leaf Beech (Fagus sylvatica    
         Atropunicea).    Give this plant space so it will not be necessary    
         to cut lower branches.                                                
                                                                               
     23. Color can be provided through the use of stones  in  a  garden  or    
         border planting.                                                      
                                                                               
     24. Year  Round  interest in this garden is provided by the Art Piece.    
         Such objects should have an appropriate background planting, or be    
         used as a focal point of a garden.                                    
                                                                               
     25. The Beauty Bush (Kockwi tzia Amabilis) is an example of a colorful    
         flowering plant.                                                      
                                                                               
     26. The flowering crab apples (Malus species) are especially  colorful    
         in  the spring.  There is a wide color range, white, pink, red and    
         purple.                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                          2    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     27. The fruit of the flowering crab apple.  Some varieties have  beau-    
         tiful red fruits which are suitable for making jelly, or are eaten    
         by birds.                                                             
                                                                               
     28. A  massed  spring  display of color:   dogwood, azaleas and bulbs.    
         This is ideal for the side yard or private areas of  the  residen-    
         tial property.                                                        
                                                                               
     29. Azaleas may be used effectively in the foundation or border plant-    
         ing  of  the public area.  The lawn should be quite open to create    
         an impression of spaciousness to the property and cause  the  home    
         to be the focal point of the landscape picture.                       
                                                                               
     30. Plants  in  containers on the patio could be changed each month to    
         provide color or interest.  An azalea is used in this tub.            
                                                                               
     31. Roses are another important group  of  plants  which  may  provide    
         color  in  the garden.  Roses may be used in beds of a formal gar-    
         den, or as hedge or specimen plants in the landscape.  Dwarf types    
         are useful in a rock garden.                                          
                                                                               
     32. Annuals and perennials provide color during the summer.  They  may    
         be used for special accent points in the landscape.                   
                                                                               
     33. The  use of lights extend the hours during which the landscape may    
         be enjoyed.                                                           
                                                                               
     34. A garden with bulbs and flowering dogwood.                            
                                                                               
     35. The next three slides show a garden view from a deck.   The  first    
         slide features the forsythia.                                         
                                                                               
     36. The  same  garden  in  the summer with roses in the rear providing    
         color.                                                                
                                                                               
     37. A view of the same garden in winter.                                  
                                                                               
     38. A garden in spring.  The Kwanzan cherry (Prunus serrulata Kwanzan)    
         is the pink blooming trees.  The white flowering dogwood  is  also    
         in bloom.                                                             
                                                                               
     39. The same garden with winter interest produced by plants and snow.     
                                                                               
     40. By  the careful selection of plant material and through the use of    
         architectural features it is possible to have an interesting  yard    
         or garden 12 months of the year.                                      
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
SCRIPT/VS 3.0.1: DEVICE 1403W6 CHARS MONO                                      
{                                                                               
                                                                               
                              Peach and Nectarines                             
                              ____________________                             
                                                                               
     Insects                                                                   
     _______                                                                   
                                                                               
     1.  European  red  mites found on apple trees also affect peach trees.    
         The damage is similar - sucking of sap and resulting  bronzing  of    
         leaves - and the yield of the tree may be reduced.                    
                                                                               
     2.  The tarnished plant bug is the same insect that flower and vegeta-    
         ble  gardeners  commonly battle. This bug injects a toxin into the    
         plant that causes deformation of leaves, dieback  of  shoots,  and    
         dwarfed, pitted fruit.                                                
                                                                               
     3.  Stink  bugs  also  cause  deformation  of fruit. Hard calluses are    
         formed around the puncture where the insect has fed.                  
                                                                               
     4.  Damage by the plum curculio is seen at first  as  small  crescent-    
         shaped cuts in the fruit skin where eggs are deposited.               
                                                                               
     5.  Later, when the fruit is opened up, the unappetizing larva and its    
         damage may be seen. This weevil also infests apples.                  
                                                                               
     6.  The Oriental fruit moth which attacks apples also damages peaches.    
         New  shoot  growth is damaged as the larvae bore through the stems    
         causing young terminals to die.                                       
                                                                               
     7.  They enter the fruit through the stem and feast on the  flesh  and    
         even the seed.                                                        
                                                                               
     8.  Four  of  the 20 or more scale insects attacking peaches are worth    
         consideration. Terrapin scale  and  European  fruit  lecanium  are    
         small and shiny brown.                                                
                                                                               
     9.  Besides  feeding  on  the  sap,  damage is done by sooty mold that    
         grows on the honeydew excreted by the scale insects.                  
                                                                               
     10. San Jose scale causes the same inflammed appearance on peaches  as    
         it does on apple fruits.                                              
                                                                               
     11. Males  of the white peach scale cause branches to look whitewashed    
         from a distance. In this slide, males and females are on  separate    
         branches.  All  the scale insects can cause weakening of the trees    
         if uncontrolled.                                                      
                                                                               
     12. Two peach tree borers are major pests of peaches  and  nectarines.    
         The  lesser  peach tree borer attacks upper branches. It lays eggs    
         in damaged sites in the bark.                                         
                                                                               
     13. This is a close-up of an entry  site  where  cast  skins  indicate    
         their  presence. A gummy substance mixed with brown sawdust exudes    
         from the area of infestation.                                         
                                                                               
                                                                          1    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     14.  Male and female lesser peach tree borer moths (female larger?).      
                                                                               
     15. The regular peach tree borer moth is similar  in  appearance,  but    
         the  female has an orange band around her abdomen. This borer lays    
         eggs near the crown or base of the tree trunk.                        
                                                                               
     16. PDB (paradichlorobenzene) crystals - the same ingredient  used  in    
         mothballs  -  can  be  used  in control of this pest, applied in a    
         soil-covered band around the trunk of the tree.   Rates are  shown    
         here.                                                                 
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
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VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
1                                                                               
                                                                                
0PLANTING                                                                       
0Plant your container crops at the same time you would if you                   
 were planting your regular garden.    Fill a clean container                   
 to within  one-half inch of the  top with the  slightly damp                   
 soil mixture.   Peat  moss in the mix will  absorb water and                   
 mix  much more  readily  if soaked  with  warm water  before                   
 putting the  mix in  the container.   Sow  the seeds  or set                   
 transplants  according  to  the  instructions  on  the  seed                   
 package.   Put a label with the name,  variety,  and date of                   
 planting on or in each  container.   After planting,  gently                   
 soak the soil with water,  being  careful not to wash out or                   
 displace seeds.    Thin seedlings  to obtain  proper spacing                   
 when the plants have two or three leaves.  If cages, stakes,                   
 or other supports are needed,   provide them when the plants                   
 are very small to avoid root damage later.                                     
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
1                                                                               
                                                                                
0SEEDING AND PLANTING TOOLS                                                     
0Depending  on the  size  of your  garden  and your  physical                   
 abilities,  you may want to consider a row seeder.   Seeders                   
 with wheels  make easy work of  sowing long rows of  corn or                   
 beans or other vegetables.  Seeders are available which make                   
 a furrow,  drop the seeds properly spaced,  and close up the                   
 furrow behind  the seed,   all in  one pass.    They do  not                   
 perform quite as well on small-seeded  crops,  and it is not                   
 really worth  the effort  of setting up  a seeder  for small                   
 areas.   A hand-held seeder is  probably a better choice for                   
 this type  of work.    Broadcast seeders  are available  for                   
 sowing seeds such as rye or wheat for a cover crop,  but are                   
 generally not necessary for the average home gardener, since                   
 broadcasting  is  easily  done  by   hand  once  the  proper                   
 technique is learned.   Finally,  fluid sowing kits are sold                   
 for sowing pre-sprouted seeds in a gel that prevents drying.                   
 Fluid sowing devices may be made  at home,  however,  at low                   
 cost.                                                                          
0ENVIRONMENTAL MONITORING EQUIPMENT                                             
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-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
1                                                                               
                                                                                
0     SAVING SEED                                                               
0     Saving your own  vegetable seed is another  pleasurable activity.         
      It offers a sense of self-sufficiency  and saves money.   You can         
      maintain a  variety that  is not  available commercially,   which         
      helps  to perpetuate  a broad  genetic base  of plant  materials.         
      Breeders often search  for old-time varieties when  attempting to         
      improve commercial plants, since the heirloom vegetables (as they         
      are sometimes  called)   often  have inbred  disease-  and  pest-         
      resistance or  cold-hardiness.   Participation in  a seed-saver's         
      exchange can  be a rewarding  experience.   Extra seeds  that you         
      have  may be  traded for  unusual  types that  are not  available         
      through other sources.                                                    
0     There are certain considerations that should be kept in mind when         
      saving seed,  however.   Hybrid varieties will not likely grow to         
      be the same as the parent plants; therefore, only open-pollinated         
      varieties should  be used for  home seed production.    Some seed         
      dealers have responded to the  increasing interest in seed-saving         
      by clearly  marking open-pollinated varieties in  their catalogs.         
      Another  consideration  in  saving seed  is  the  possibility  of         
      carrying seed-borne  diseases into the  next year's  crop.   Many         
      commercially grown  seeds are  grown in  dry areas  unsuitable to         
      fungal, viral and bacterial diseases which may be present in your         
      region.   Take care  to control diseases which can  be carried in         
      seed.   Another weather-related factor is  the speed of drying of         
      seeds,  which can be adversely  affected by frequent rains and/or         
      humidity.  And finally, if you've ever saved squash seed during a         
      season in which you had more than one type of squash planted, you         
      have probably  seen the wierd results  that may be  obtained from         
      cross-pollination!   Saving  seeds from crosspollinated  crops is         
      not generally recommended for the novice because of problems with         
      selection,   requirements  for hand  pollination  and  isolation,         
      biennial habits, and genetic variability.                                 
0     Some common self-pollinated annual plants  from which seed may be         
      saved include lettuce, beans and peas, herbs, and tomatoes.               
0     Saving beans  and peas:   Allow  seed pods  to turn brown  on the         
      plant.  Harvest pods, dry for 1-2 weeks, shell, and then store in         
      a cool (below 50~% F.), dry environment in a paper bag.                   
0     Saving  lettuce  seed:    Cut  off seed  stalks  when  fluffy  in         
      appearance,   just before  all the  seeds  are completely  dried.         
      Seeds will fall off the stalk and be lost if allowed to mature on         
      the plant.   Dry  the harvested seed stalk  further,  shake seeds         
      off, and then store in a cool,  dry environment in an envelope or         
      small glass jar.                                                          
0     Saving  herb seeds:    Herbs  vary in  the  way  their seeds  are         
      produced.   In  general,  allow herb seeds  to dry on  the plants         
      until they are almost completely dry.   Some seed heads,  such as         
      dill,  will shatter and drop their seeds as soon as they are dry.         
1                                                                               
                                                                                
      Watch the early-ripening seeds; if they tend to fall off, harvest         
      the other  seed heads  before they  get to  that point,   leaving         
      several inches of stem attached.  Hang several stems upside down,         
      covered with a paper bag to catch  falling seed,  in a warm,  dry         
      place until the drying is complete.    Remove seeds from the seed         
      heads and  store in  envelopes or small  glass jars.    Some herb         
      seeds  - dill,   celery,   anise,  cumin,   and  others are  used         
      themselves for flavoring and are ready  to use once dry.   Saving         
      tomato seeds:   Pick fruit from desirable plants when ripe.   Cut         
      fruit and squeeze out pulp into a container.  Add a little water,         
      then  let  ferment  2-4  days   at  room  temperature,   stirring         
      occasionally.   When seeds settle out,   pour off pulp and spread         
      seeds thinly to  dry thoroughly.   Store in an  envelope or glass         
      jar in a cool dry place.                                                  
0     For  all kinds  of  saved seeds,   be sure  to  mark the  storage         
      containers clearly  with permanent (preferably  waterproof)  ink,         
      indicating the variety and date saved.   Seeds will remain viable         
      for  some time  if properly  stored.   To  test for  germination,         
      sprout seeds between moist paper  towels;  if germination is low,         
      either  discard  the seed  or  plant  enough  extra to  give  the         
      desirable number of plants.                                               
0     Viability  of vegetable  seeds   (Average #  Years  Seeds May  be         
      Saved)                                                                    
0     Vegetable Years     Vegetable Years Asparagus     3    Leek           1   
      Bean 3    Lettuce   5 Beet 4  Muskmelon 5 Broccoli 5   Mustard   4        
      Brussels sprouts 5  Okra 2 Cabbage 5    Onion     1 Carrot 3     Parsley  
      Cauliflower 5  Parsnip   1 Celery 5     Pea  3 Chinese cabbage 5 Pepper   
      Collard 5 Pumpkin   4 Corn salad 5 Radish    5 Cress, water 5    Rutabaga 
      Cucumber 5     Spinach   5 Eggplant 5   Squash    5 Endive 5     Sweet    
      corn 1 Kale 5  Tomato    4 Kohlrabi 5   Turnip    5 Watermelon 5          
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
SCRIPT/VS 3.0.1: DEVICE 1403W6 CHARS MONO                                      
{                                                                               
                                                                               
                           HOME AND GARDEN SLIDE SETS                          
                           __________________________                          
                                                                               
     The following comments briefly describe the contents of all slide sets    
     available  from this office, to aid you in your selection and planning    
     processes. Sets are listed in alphabetical order.                         
                                                                               
     1.  All America Selections: Vegetables, 1977-1981 (20 slides)             
                                                                               
            Fairly thorough descriptions of some of the AAS vegetable vari-    
         ety choices for these five years. An alternative to Vegetable  Va-    
         rieties for the Home Garden.                                          
                                                                               
     2.  All America Selection Winning Flowers, 1977-1981 (20 slides)          
                                                                               
            Twenty slides describing new AAS flower varieties.                 
                                                                               
     3.  Annual Flowers (40 slides)                                            
                                                                               
            Describes general groups of annuals and their use.                 
                                                                               
     4.  Azaleas in the Garden (40 slides)                                     
                                                                               
            Includes suggestions for use of azaleas in landscaping, culture    
         of azalea plants, and descriptions of some varieties.                 
                                                                               
     5.  Careers in Horticulture (40 slides)                                   
                                                                               
            Illustrates   opportunities  in  laboratories,  florist  shops,    
         greenhouse management and construction, landscaping, nursery oper-    
         ations, bedding plant production,  garden  centers,  arboreta  and    
         display  gardens,  fruit  and vegetable growing, pest control, and    
         other fields available  to  persons  trained  in  horticulture.  -    
         Horticulture therapy is covered in a separate set by that name.       
                                                                               
     6.  Container Gardening: Construction and Planting (40 slides)            
                                                                               
            General  container  gardening  procedures,  including choice of    
         containers, making soil mixes, providing for  drainage,  watering,    
         fertilizing,  pest  control,  repotting, etc. Suggestions for con-    
         tainer plants. Mostly for outdoor gardening.                          
                                                                               
     7.  Dried Flowers and Arrangements (20 slides)                            
                                                                               
            Various uses of dried flowers, generally  for  formal  arrange-    
         ments. Drying methods are also covered.                               
                                                                               
     8.  Dwarf Apples on a Fence (20 slides)                                   
                                                                               
            Instructions  for  planting  and training apple trees espalier-    
         style. Especially useful for those with small production spaces.      
                                                                               
     9.  Exhibiting and Judging Flowers (40 slides)                            
                                                                               
                                                                          1    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
            Points to consider in judging narcissus, tulips,  roses,  iris,    
         glads,   snapdragons,   dahlias,  chrysanthemums,  marigolds,  and    
         calendulas.                                                           
                                                                               
     10. Fall and Winter Garden Care (40 slides)                               
                                                                               
            Recommended practices for preparing a vegetable garden for  the    
         winter.  Covers  clean-up of garden area, protection of half-hardy    
         and perennial plants, disposal of wastes, composting, fall plowing    
         and cover crops, storage of garden  equipment,  and  cleaning  and    
         storage of tools.                                                     
                                                                               
     11. Fighting Drought in the Home Garden (40 slides)                       
                                                                               
            Practices which help prevent plant loss during extended dry pe-    
         riods.  Mulching  (including  various  types of mulches), watering    
         practices (sprinkler, hose, trickle irrigation, timing  of  water-    
         ing),  variety  selection for drought resistance, root depths, use    
         of grey water, and rain barrels.                                      
                                                                               
     12. Flower Arrangements for Christmas (40 slides)                         
                                                                               
            Traditional and nontraditional arrangements and  wreaths  using    
         living  and  nonliving  horticultural  materials, plus Christ- mas    
         ornaments and candles for seasonal decoration.                        
                                                                               
     13. Flower Arranging for the Home (40 slides)                             
                                                                               
            A variety of arrangement styles with both sketches  and  photo-    
         graphs for teaching principles of floral design.                      
                                                                               
     14. Flower Beds and Borders (40 slides)                                   
                                                                               
            Suggestions  for  use  of bulbs and other perennials as well as    
         annual flowers in the landscape. Discusses some principles of  bed    
         design and effective use of plant material.                           
                                                                               
     15. Flowering Houseplants (20 slides)                                     
                                                                               
            Houseplants  selected  for their attractive flowers and ease of    
         flowering indoors. Includes culture and uses for each plant.          
                                                                               
     16. Garden Insects (40 slides)                                            
                                                                               
            Slides of some commonly found insects in  the  home  fruit  and    
         vegetable garden. Includes several beneficial insects. Cur- rently    
         has no script.                                                        
                                                                               
     17. Gardening in a Small Space (60 slides)                                
                                                                               
            For those without a large garden plot, or who have little time,    
         or a physical disability preventing larger-scale gard- ening. Dis-    
         cusses careful garden planning, intensive cropping methods (inter-    
         cropping,   succession   cropping,   intensive  matrix,  wide  row    
                                                                               
                                                                          2    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
         gardening, vertical planting), use of dwarf varieties, planting in    
         flower beds, raised beds and containers, use of hot beds and  cold    
         frames, and fall gardening. A sample plan for a small space garden    
         is included.                                                          
                                                                               
     18. Gardening in Raised Beds (40 slides)                                  
                                                                               
            Suggestions  for  various  types  of raised beds and their con-    
         struction and use. Soil  preparation,  problems  and  advantages.-    
         Touches  on intensive planting, and can be supplemented by Garden-    
         ing in a Small Space. Useful for handicapped, elderly, and persons    
         who have only hand tools, and for those  who  like  the  aesthetic    
         value of raised beds.                                                 
                                                                               
     19. Gardening with Wildlife (40 slides)                                   
                                                                               
            Attracting  wildlife to the garden through the use of appropri-    
         ate plant materials. Description and culture of trees, shrubs  and    
         herbaceous plants that wildlife prefer.                               
                                                                               
     20. Grafting (20 slides)                                                  
                                                                               
            Step-by-step  techniques  for  grafting,  including  whip, side    
         tongue, cleft, and bark grafts.                                       
                                                                               
     21. Green Survival (77 slides + cassette)                                 
                                                                               
            Professionally prepared slide set with  cassette  tape  by  the    
         American  Association of Nurserymen. Improvement of the quality of    
         life through the use of plant material is the theme.                  
                                                                               
     22. Ground Covers in the Landscape (40 slides)                            
                                                                               
            Largely a description of ground cover plants and their uses.       
                                                                               
     23. Herb Culture for the Home Garden (33 slides)                          
                                                                               
            Descriptions and culinary uses of nineteen common herbs. - Cur-    
         rently under revision.                                                
                                                                               
     24. Home Vegetable Diseases (40 slides)                                   
                                                                               
            Common diseases of tomatoes, cucumbers, beans and  Irish  pota-    
         toes. Has no script at present.                                       
                                                                               
     25. Horticulture Therapy (40 slides)                                      
                                                                               
               Describes  this  growing field's benefits and opportunities,    
         gives examples of successful therapy programs,  discusses  various    
         tools  and  modifications  made  for  the  handicapped, and covers    
         horticulture therapy in Virginia.                                     
                                                                               
     26. House Plants for the Home (40 slides)                                 
                                                                               
                                                                          3    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
            Short descriptions of common house plants, with general culture    
         notes.  Includes  flowering  and   foliage   plants,   cacti   and    
         succulents, ferns, orchids, African violets, and poinsettias.         
                                                                               
     27. Indoor Plantscaping (20 slides)                                       
                                                                               
            Culture  and  uses  of  twenty indoor plants; includes propaga-    
         tion methods and original habitats..                                  
                                                                               
     28. Judging Fruits and Vegetables (40 slides)                             
                                                                               
            Indicates what to look for when judging fruits and vegetab- les    
         in competition. Thirteen types of vegetables, eight  varieties  of    
         apples,  pears and grapes are covered.  Landscape for Outdoor Liv-    
         ing (40 slides)                                                       
                                                                               
            Landscape planning for practical outdoor uses,  including  ter-    
         races, patios, walls, porches and other garden construction ideas,    
         outdoor furniture, play equipment and plant materials.                
                                                                               
     29. Landscaping for Year-Round Interest (40 slides)                       
                                                                               
            Choices of landscape plants for attractiveness in all seasons.     
                                                                               
     30. Landscaping the Home (40 slides)                                      
                                                                               
            Basic principles of landscape design, with examples of good and    
         poor landscaping. Suggest supplementing with more modern landscap-    
         ing design slides if you have them.                                   
                                                                               
     31. Landscaping with Trees (40 slides)                                    
                                                                               
            Use  of  trees  in the landscape, with photographs of some com-    
         monly used trees.                                                     
                                                                               
     32. Minimum Chemical Garden (60 slides)                                   
                                                                               
            Recently revised and expanded.  Covers  basic  practices  which    
         will  enable  a  home  vegetable  gardener to reduce the number of    
         chemicals used in the garden: soil preparation,  plant  selection,    
         cultural practices, and alternatives to chemicals.                    
                                                                               
     33. Perennials (40 slides)                                                
                                                                               
            Culture and use of perennial flowers.                              
                                                                               
     34. Plant Propagation (20 slides)                                         
                                                                               
            Various  methods  of  propagation, including seeding, cuttings,    
         and air layering. Also  describes  different  growing  media.  See    
         Starting  Your  Own  Vegetable Seed for more in-depth set covering    
         seeds.                                                                
                                                                               
     35. Plants Changing Man's Environment (40 slides)                         
                                                                               
                                                                          4    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
            Use of plants in landscaping and in homes and offices  to  make    
         humans more comfortable in their surroundings, as well as for home    
         food productions.                                                     
                                                                               
     36. Plants for Hanging Baskets (20 slides)                                
                                                                               
            Description  and culture of 19 plants suitable for hanging bas-    
         kets.                                                                 
                                                                               
     37. Plastic Greenhouse Construction (Estate Size) (20 slides)             
                                                                               
            Erection of a small gothic style greenhouse, step by step,  for    
         home gardeners. This is a free-standing style, and unfor- tunately    
         the set doesn't include an attached solar greenhouse.                 
                                                                               
     38. Pruning - Principles and Practices (60 slides)                        
                                                                               
            Photographs  and  sketches  showing  basic pruning tools, prac-    
         tices, and possibilities, mostly for  ornamental  plants.    Fruit    
         trees are covered superficially.                                      
                                                                               
     39. Pruning Shrubs and Trees (40 slides)                                  
                                                                               
            This  is  the  old  version  of  Pruning - Principles and Prac-    
         tices, and is only used during heavy loan periods.  Basically  the    
         same, except shorter.                                                 
                                                                               
     40. Rock Gardens (40 slides)                                              
                                                                               
            Examples of rock gardens and some of the plants used in them.      
                                                                               
     41. Roses (30 slides)                                                     
                                                                               
            Description of several rose varieties and some general comments    
         on desirable and undesirable qualities to look for in roses.          
                                                                               
     42. Shrubs for a Shady Location (20 slides)                               
                                                                               
               Description  of  shrubs  that  will tolerate shade and their    
         cultural requirements.                                                
                                                                               
     43. Small Fruit Varieties and Culture: Blueberry, Raspberry, and Grape    
         (34 slides)                                                           
                                                                               
            Planting, training, pruning, maintenance and pest management of    
         these crops. Emphasis on raining and pruning.                         
                                                                               
     44. Spring Bulbs for Indoor Bloom (20 slides)                             
                                                                               
               Step-by-step procedures for forcing spring  flowering  bulbs    
         indoors.                                                              
                                                                               
     45. Spring Flowering Bulbs (40 sides)                                     
                                                                               
                                                                          5    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
            Description  of  daffodils, tulips, crocus, hyacinths and other    
         bulbs for spring flowers.                                             
                                                                               
     46. Starting Early Plants (20 slides)                                     
                                                                               
            Short lesson on starting bedding plant seeds inside. For a more    
         thorough discussion of seed-starting, see Starting Your Own  Vege-    
         table Seed.                                                           
                                                                               
     47. Starting Your Own Vegetable Seed (80 slides)                          
                                                                               
            Expanded  set describing the details of seed starting, both in-    
         doors and out. Includes techniques such  as  fluid  sowing  (gel),    
         seed tapes, presoaking, and using cold frames and cloches, as well    
         as standard practices.                                                
                                                                               
     48. Strawberry Culture (24 slides)                                        
                                                                               
            Briefly  covers  varieties,  soil fumigation, planting methods,    
         mulching, spring frost damage, diseases and renovation.               
                                                                               
     49. Tree Fruit in the Home Garden (38 slides)                             
                                                                               
            Planting, training and pruning, fertilizing,  mulching,  spring    
         frost damage, and general pest control of common tree fruits.         
                                                                               
     50. Unusual Vegetables for the Home Garden (40 slides)                    
                                                                               
            Descriptions and culture of 23 unusual plants for the home veg-    
         etable garden.                                                        
                                                                               
     51. Vegetable Garden Planting and Culture (40 slides)                     
                                                                               
               Basic  vegetable  gardening,  including  sowing seeds, using    
         transplants, mulching; briefly discusses tomato culture.              
                                                                               
     52. Vegetable Garden Soil: Cartoon Chart Lecture (20 slides)              
                                                                               
            A cute little sunflower explains site selection,  organic  mat-    
         ter, soil pH, fertilization, weed control, mulching and watering.     
                                                                               
     53. Vegetable Gardening for the Beginner (60 slides)                      
                                                                               
            An expanded version of Vegetable Garden Planting and Cul- ture.    
         Covers  planning,  site  location,  soil  preparation  and  ferti-    
         lization, intensive techniques, seed  sowing,  using  transplants,    
         mulching, cultivation, watering and pest management.                  
                                                                               
     54. Vegetable Varieties for Home Gardeners (40 slides)                    
                                                                               
            Some  choices  available  for  the vegetable garden. A wide se-    
         lection, 30 types, are pictured and discussed.                        
                                                                               
     55. Water Gardens and Pools (40 slides)                                   
                                                                               
                                                                          6    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
            Ideas for those with ambitious  landscaping  visions.  Includes    
         both  formal  and naturalized settings. Some discussion of aquatic    
         plants.                                                               
                                                                               
     56. Weed Control in the Home Garden (20 slides)                           
                                                                               
            Brief discussion of various methods of weed control,  including    
         cultivation, hand pulling, mulching and herbicides.                   
                                                                               
     57. Wild Flowers of Virginia (40 slides)                                  
                                                                               
            Photographs and discussion of common Virginia wild flowers.        
                                                                               
     58. Winterizing Your Trees and Shrubs (40 slides)                         
                                                                               
            Preparation  of  landscape  plants for winter and discussion of    
         various kinds of winter damage.                                       
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                          7    
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
SCRIPT/VS 3.0.1: DEVICE 1403W6 CHARS MONO                                      
{                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                           INSECTS OF THE HOME GARDEN                          
                                                                               
                       Prepared by D. Relf and J. Roberts                      
                                                                               
         (Note:  The written material to accompany these slides was adapted    
         from  Rodale's  Color  Handbook  of  Garden  Insects by Anna Carr.    
         Available from Rodale Press, Emmaus, PA.  It is an excellent  ref-    
         erence  with  over  300 color photographs.)  For chemical control,    
         refer to PMG 1.                                                       
                                                                               
     INSECTS                                                                   
                                                                               
     Aphid  (cabbage aphid and corn leaf aphid shown on slides)                
     _____                                                                     
                                                                               
     1.  General:  Soft body, pear-shaped, 1/10" long, winged or  wingless,    
         colors vary with species:  green, bluish-black, pink, red, brown.     
                                                                               
     2.   Cycle:  Many generations per year.  Hibernation occurs in the egg    
         stage.                                                                
                                                                               
     3.  Plants:  Most garden vegetables and fruit.                            
                                                                               
     4.  Hanging  Habits:  Aphids congregate on succulent foliage and stems    
         and suck juices.  Leaves turn yellow and the  plant  is  generally    
         weakened.                                                             
                                                                               
     5.  Natural Controls:  Spray foliage with soapy water, then rinse with    
         clear water.                                                          
                                                                               
         Beetles                                                               
                                                                               
         Colorado Potato Beetle                                                
         ______________________                                                
                                                                               
     6.  General:    Yellow with black stripes on wing covers and dark dots    
         just behind the head; hard shelled, very convex;  1/3  inch  long.    
         Eggs  are  orange,  laid in rows on underside of leaves.  Larva is    
         red with black legs and head, changing to pink or orange with  two    
         rows of black spots on each side; plump.                              
                                                                               
     7.  Life Cycle:  One to three generations per year.  Adults overwinter    
         in the soil.                                                          
                                                                               
     8.  Host Plants:  Eggplant, pepper, potato, tomato.                       
                                                                               
     9.  Feeding Habits:  Adults and grubs feed on leaves.                     
                                                                               
     10. Insect Predators:  Ground beetle (harpalus caliginosus)               
                                                                               
                                                                          1    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     11. Natural  Controls:  Mulch well with a 1-foot layer of clean hay or    
         straw.                                                                
                                                                               
         Flea :hp1Beetle/Striped Flea Beetle                                   
         ____                    ____ ______                                   
                                                                               
     12. General:  Black, shiny, with curved yellow or white  stripes;  ac-    
         tive, hops away when disturbed; 1/10" long; eggs are whitish; min-    
         ute; laid in soil.                                                    
                                                                               
     13. Similar Insects:  Grape flea bettle                                   
                                                                               
     14. Life  Cycle:   One or two generations per year.  Adults overwinter    
         in garden weeds and trash.                                            
                                                                               
     15. Host Plants:  Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower. Similar  species  on    
         almost every vegetable.  Eggplant is heavily attacked.                
                                                                               
     16. Feeding  Habits:   Adults and larvae chew tiny holes in leaves and    
         transmit viral and bacterial diseases.                                
                                                                               
     17. natural Controls:  Dust with diatomaceous earth.                      
                                                                               
         Mexican Bean Beetle                                                   
                                                                               
     18. General:   Yellowish brown with 16 black  spots  on  wing  covers;    
         round;  1/4"  long;  eggs  are  laid  in  clusters on underside of    
         leaves; larva is orange; spined; 1/3 inches long.                     
                                                                               
     19. Similar Insects:  Lady beetles Life Cycle:   One to  three  gener-    
         ations per year.  Adults hibernate in open fields or woods.           
                                                                               
     20. Host Plants:  Bean.                                                   
                                                                               
     21. Feeding  Habits:  Larvae and adults skeletonize leaves from under-    
         neath.                                                                
                                                                               
     22. Insect Predators:    Various  assassin  bugs,  a  wasp  (pediobius    
         foveolatus).                                                          
                                                                               
         Spotted Cucumber Beetle                                               
         _______________________                                               
                                                                               
     23. General:    Greenish  yellow  with a small black head and 11 black    
         spots on the back; 1/4" long; eggs are yellow; oval; laid in  soil    
         at  the base of plants; larva is beige with a brown head and brown    
         spot on the last body segment; and 1/2" long.                         
                                                                               
     24. Life Cycle:  In the North, there are one or  two  generations;  in    
         the  South,  there are up to four.  Adult overwinters in plant de-    
         bris and garden trash.                                                
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                          2    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     25. Host Plants:  Corn, cucumber, eggplant, melon, pea,  potato,squash    
         and tomato, as well as many tree fruits.                              
                                                                               
     26. Feeding  Habits:   Adults chew holes in plant leaves. flowers, and    
         fruits and transmit brown rot among  stone  fruits.    Larvae  eat    
         roots and stems of plants early in the season.                        
                                                                               
     27. Insect Predators:  A tachinid fly (Celatoria diabrotica).             
                                                                               
         Striped Cucumber Beetle                                               
         _______________________                                               
                                                                               
     28. General:  Pale yellow to orange with three black stripes and black    
         head;  1/4" long; eggs are orange, laid in the soil at the base of    
         the host plants; larvae is white; slender; 1/4" long                  
                                                                               
     29. Life Cycle:   One generation in the North;  two  to  four  in  the    
         South.  Adults overwinter in plant debris.                            
                                                                               
     30. Host Plants:  Bean, Corn, cucumber, melon, pea, pumpkin, squash.      
                                                                               
     31. Feeding  Habits:  Adults chew leaves and flowers and transmit bac-    
         terial wilt and cucumber mosiac.  Larvae feed on underground stems    
         and roots.                                                            
                                                                               
     32. Insect Predators:  Various soldier beetles.                           
                                                                               
         Borer                                                                 
                                                                               
         Squash Vine Borer;eh1                                                 
         ______ ____ _________                                                 
                                                                               
     33. General:  White caterpillar with a brown head; wrinkled; 1"  long.    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         Adult  is  orange  and  black, clear-winged moth with coppery fore    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         wings and black stripes around the abdomen; 1 to 1/2"  long;  eggs    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         are brown, flat, oval; laid singly along the stems.                   
         ___________________________________________________                   
                                                                               
     34. Life  Cycle:  One to two generations.  Hibernates as larva or pupa    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         in a cocoon, 1" deep in the soil.                                     
         _________________________________                                     
                                                                               
     35. Host Plants:  Cucumber, gourd, melon, pumpkin,  squash.    Feeding    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         Habits:  Borers enter base of stems in early summer, causing vines    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         to  wilt suddenly and masses of greenish frass to exude from holes    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         in the stems.                                                         
         _____________                                                         
                                                                               
         BUG                                                                   
         ___                                                                   
                                                                               
         Squash Bug                                                            
         __________                                                            
                                                                               
     36. General:  Dark brown to black with orange or brown abdominal  per-    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         imeter;  emits  a  peculiar odor when crushed; 1/2" long; eggs are    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         brown, shiny; laid in groups or singly on the underside of  leaves    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         and  stems;  nymphs  are  yellowish  green  with  dark abdomen and    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         thorax.                                                               
         _______                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                          3    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     37. Life Cycle:  One generation per year.  Hibernates as an adult.        
     ___ ______________________________________________________________        
                                                                               
     38. Host Plants:  Cucumber, melon, pumpkin, squash.                       
     ___ _______________________________________________                       
                                                                               
     39. Feeding Habits:  Adults and nymphs congregate on  leaves,  causing    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         them to wilt and blacken.                                             
         _________________________                                             
                                                                               
     40. Insect Predators:  The tachinid fly (Trichopoda Pennipes).            
     ___ __________________________________________________________            
                                                                               
         CATERPILLARS                                                          
         ____________                                                          
                                                                               
         Cabbage Looper                                                        
         ______________                                                        
                                                                               
     41. General:  Green with pale stripes down the back; loops its body as    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         it crawls; 1 1/2" long.  The adult is brownish with a silvery spot    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         in the middle of each forewing; night flying; 1 1/2-inch wingspan.    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Eggs  are  greenish white, round; laid singly on the upper surface    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         of the leaves.                                                        
         ______________                                                        
                                                                               
     42. Similar Insects:    Diamondback  moth;  garden  webworm;  imported    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         cabbageworm.                                                          
         ____________                                                          
                                                                               
     43. Life  Cycle:    Several broods per year.  Winter is spent as apupa    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         attached to a leaf, but in  norther  regions  adults  may  migrate    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         south  for  the  winter.   Host Plants:   Bean, broccoli, cabbage,    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         cauliflower, celery, kale, lettuce, parsley, pea, potato,  radish,    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         spinach, tomato.                                                      
         ________________                                                      
                                                                               
     44. Feeding Habits:  Larvae chew leaves.                                  
     ___ ____________________________________                                  
                                                                               
     45. Insect Predators:  Trichogramma wasps.                                
     ___ ______________________________________                                
                                                                               
     46. Natural   Controls:     Use  Bacillus  thuringiensis  for  serious    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         infestations.                                                         
         _____________                                                         
                                                                               
         Imported Cabbageworm                                                  
         ____________________                                                  
                                                                               
     47. General:  Velvety pale green with yellow  stripes;  leaves  behind    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         dark  green pellets of excrement; 1 1/4 inches long.  The adult is    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         a white moth with black tip on the forewing and two or three black    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         spots; 1 to 2 inch wingspan. Eggs are  yellowish;  bullet  shaped;    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         ridged; laid singly on the leave                                      
         ________________________________                                      
                                                                               
     48. Similar   Insects:    Cabbage  looper,  diamondback  moth,  garden    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         webworm.                                                              
         ________                                                              
                                                                               
     49. Life Cycle:  Two to three generations pr year.  Hibernation is  in    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         the pupal stage.                                                      
         ________________                                                      
                                                                               
     50. Host  Plants:    Cabbage,  cauliflower,  kale,  kohlrabi, mustard,    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         radish, turnip.                                                       
         _______________                                                       
                                                                               
                                                                          4    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     51. Feeding Habits:  Caterpillars feed on leaves, chewing  huge  holes    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         in them.                                                              
         ________                                                              
                                                                               
     52. Insect Predators:  Various trichogramma wasps                         
     ___ _____________________________________________                         
                                                                               
     53. Natural Controls:  Bacillus thuringiensis can be used                 
     ___ _____________________________________________________                 
                                                                               
         Corn Earworm                                                          
         ____________                                                          
                                                                               
         General:   color varies from white to green and even red with four    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         pairs of prolegs; spined;  1  1/2  inches  long.    The  adult  is    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         greenish  gray or brown moth with black markings on the for wings;    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         night flying; 1 1/2 inch wingspan.  Eggs are light brown  or  yel-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         low; domed, ridged; laid singly on plant leaves.  Similar Insects:    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         European  corn  borer.    Life Cycle:   Up to seven generatons per    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         year.  Pupa passes winter in soil.  Host Plants:  Bean, corn, pea,    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         pepper, potato, squash, tomato.   Feeding Habits:   Earworms  chew    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         buds  and leaves, causing plants to be stunted.  Later, they enter    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         corn ears at the tip and work their way to the kernels.  Masses of    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         moist castings result; pollination is hindered; mold  forms.    On    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         tomato,  larvae  enter the stem end.  Larvae chew foliage of other    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         crops.    Insect  Predators:    Tachinid  fly  (Lydella  stabulans    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         grisescens).   Natural Controls:  Bacillus thuringiensis for seri-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         ous infestations on garden vegetables.  On corn,  apply a drop  of    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         mineral oil inside the tip of each ear after silk has wilted.         
         _____________________________________________________________         
                                                                               
         Cutworms General:  Grayish or brown; curls up when disturbed; sel-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         dom  seen  during  the  day; 1 to 2 inches long.  Adult is gray or    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         brownish moth with paler hind wings; night  flying,  attracted  to    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         light;  1  to  1 1/2 -inch wingspan.  Eggs are usually laid in the    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         soil.  Life Cycle:  One to five generations, depending  upon  spe-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         cies.    Winter  is passed as a pupa or young larva.  Host Plants:    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         All garden vegetables,  particularly  seedlings  and  transplants.    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Feeding  Habits:  Larvae feed near the soil surface, cutting stems    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         several inches below ground level or just above it.  Insect Preda-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         tors:  Trichogramma wasps.  Natural Controls:  Place a  collar  of    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         stiff paper or cardboard around each plant when it is transplanted    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         to   the  garden.     Bacillus  thuringiensis  kills  the  larvae.    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Fruittree Leafroller General:  Green with dark brown head; covered    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         with fine spines; 1inch long.  The adult is brownish  yellow  moth    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         with  mottling  and  two beige spots on the wing margins; 3/4 inch    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         wingspan.  Eggs are pale yellow to brown,  covered  with  brownish    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         varnish;  laid in masses of up to 100 on twigs and branches.  Life    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Cycle:  One generation per year.   Hibernates as  an  egg.    Host    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Plants:    Apple  and other fruit trees.   Feeding Habits:  Larvae    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         spin webs around leaves at the tops of branches and feed on  bugs,    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         leaves,  and  small  fruits.    Mature apples have deep, russedted    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         scars.  Insect Predators:   Various trichogramma wasps.    Natural    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Controls:    Dormant-oil  spray  applied  just before buds open or    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Bacillus thuringiensis after the caterpillars appear.                 
         _____________________________________________________                 
                                                                               
         Tomato Hornworm General:  Green with seven or eight white  stripes    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         and  a  black  horn projecting from the rear; similar species, to-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         bacco hornworm, has a red horn; 3 to 4 inches long.  The adult  is    
         __________________________________________________________________    
                                                                               
                                                                          5    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
         grayish  or brownish moth with white zigzags on the rear wings and    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         orange or brownish spots on the body; 4 to 5-inch wingspan.   Eggs    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         are greenish yellow; laid on the underside of leaves.  Life Cycle:    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         One  or  two  generations per year.  Winter is passed in the pupal    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         stage.  Host Plants:  Eggplant, pepper, potato, tomato.    Feeding    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Habits:    Larvae  chew  leaves  and  fruits.    Insect Predators:    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Braconid wasps lay eggs on caterpillars, often forming small white    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         cocoons on the skin.  Trichogramma wasps parasitize  hornworms  in    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         the  egg stage.  Natural Controls:  Plants can tolerate some feed-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         ing but if the caterpillars become a problem, remove them by  hand    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         and destroy them.                                                     
         _________________                                                     
                                                                               
         FLY                                                                   
         ___                                                                   
                                                                               
         Leafminers  General:    Black  and yellow stripes; 1/10 inch long.    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Eggs are laid on leaf surfaces.   Larva is  yellowish,  stout  and    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         wormlike.    Life Cycle:  Several generations per year.  Hibernate    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         in cocoons in the soil.  Host Plants:  Bean, blackberry,  cabbage,    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         lettuce,   pepper,  potato,  spinach,  turnip.    Feeding  Habits:    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Maggots mine beneath the surface of the leaves, causing white tun-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         nels to form.  Related leafmines may chew blotches in leaves.  Na-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         tural Controls:  Remove and destroy infested leaves, this may help    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         reduce problems.                                                      
         ________________                                                      
                                                                               
         Cabbage Maggot General:  Gray with black stripes  on  the  thorax;    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         resembles  ahouse  fly;  1/4  inch long.   Eggs are white, laid on    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         plants near the soil surface.  Larva is white,  blunt  ended,  1/4    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         inch  long.  Life Cycle:  Two to three broods per year.  Winter is    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         passed as a pupa in the soul.   Host Plants:   Broccoli,  Brussels    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         sprouts,  cabbage,  cauliflower, radish, turnip.   Feeding Habits:    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Maggots tunnel into roots and stems, causing plants  to  wilt  and    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         develop  bacterial  or  fungal diseases.   Insect Predators:  Rove    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         beetles.  Natural Controls:  Protect seedlings with  a  square  of    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         tar  paper  laid  flat on the ground around the stem or cover with    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         screening.  Dust with rock phosphate or with diatomaceous earth.      
         ________________________________________________________________      
                                                                               
         Onion Maggot General:  Gray or brown with a humped back and  large    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         wings;  1/4  inch long.   Eggs are white, cylindrical, laid at the    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         base of plants or in bulbs.  Larva is white, blunt ended, 1/3 inch    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         long.  Life Cycle:  Two to three generations per year.  Hibernates    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         as a pupa in the soil.    Host  Plants:    Onion  Feeding  Habits:    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Larvae  tunnel  into  bulbs, ruining crops and often killing young    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         onions.  Most damage is done in spring.                               
         _______________________________________                               
                                                                               
         GRASSHOPPER                                                           
         ___________                                                           
                                                                               
         Grasshoppers/Locusts General:  Brown to reddish yellow  or  green;    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         long  bodies with prominent jaws and short antennae; enlarged hind    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         legs for jumping; 1 to 2 inches long.  Eggs are laid in  egg  pods    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         in  soil  and weeds.  Life Cycle:  One generation per year.  Over-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         winters in the egg stage.   Host Plants:   Most  vegetable  crops.    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Feeding  Habits:    Grasshoppers feed during the day on leaves and    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         stems, often defoliating plants during dry periods.  Natural  Con-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
                                                                               
                                                                          6    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
         trols:    Trap  grasshoppers  in  mason  jars  partly  filled with    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         molasses and water and buried in the garden                           
         ___________________________________________                           
                                                                               
         LEAFHOPPER Potato Leafhopper General:  Green with white  spots  on    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         the  head, wings, and part of the thorax; 1/5 inch long.  Eggs are    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         yellowish white; laid in veins on the underside of leaves.   Simi-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         lar  Insects:    Beet  leafhopper.    Life  Cycle:    Two  to four    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         genrations per year.  Adults hibernate in garden trash and weeds.     
         _________________________________________________________________     
                                                                               
     54. Host Plants:   Bean, celery, citrus,  eggplant,  potato,  rhubarb.    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         Feeding Habits:  Adults and nymphs transmit viral diseases to host    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         plants.    Infected leaves are curled and strippled or stunted and    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         bleached.                                                             
         _________                                                             
                                                                               
         WHITEFLY                                                              
         ________                                                              
                                                                               
         Greenhouse Whitefly                                                   
         ___________________                                                   
                                                                               
     55. General:  White, mothlike; 1/20 to 1/12 inch long.  Eggs are  yel-    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         low,  cone  shaped;  laid on small projections on the underside of    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         leaves.  Nymph is green, translucent, flat with  fine  waxy  fila-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         ments.                                                                
         ______                                                                
                                                                               
     56. Life  Cycle:    Many  broods  each year.   Hibernates in the nymph    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         stage.                                                                
         ______                                                                
                                                                               
     57. Host Plants:  Most fruits and vegetables.                             
     ___ _________________________________________                             
                                                                               
     58. Feeding Habits:  Nymphs and adults suck the juices from  succulent    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         new growth and cause plants to become weak and susceptible to dis-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         ease.                                                                 
         _____                                                                 
                                                                               
     59. Natural Controls:  Trap adults.                                       
     ___ _______________________________                                       
                                                                               
         WIREWORM                                                              
         ________                                                              
                                                                               
         Eastern Field Wireworm                                                
         ______________________                                                
                                                                               
     60. General:    Brown to yellowish; shiny, hard skin, cylindrical; 1/3    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         to 1/2 inches long.  Adult is black to grayish or brown with  dark    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         spots  on  the  head  and bands across wing covers; 1/2 inch long.    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Eggs are laid in damp soil several  inches  beneath  the  surface.    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Similar Insects:  Millipedes                                          
         ____________________________                                          
                                                                               
     61. Life Cycle:  One generation per year, the life cycle requiring one    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         to  six  years to complete.   Adult beetles overwinter in cells in    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         the soil.                                                             
         _________                                                             
                                                                               
     62. Host Plants:  Bean, beet, carrot, corn, lettuce, onion,  pea,  po-    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         tato.                                                                 
         _____                                                                 
                                                                               
                                                                          7    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     63. Feeding  Habits:   Larvae chew seed, feed on underground roots and    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         tubers, and burrow into other  plant  parts.    Natural  Controls:    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Trap wireworms in pieces of potato scattered around the garden.       
         _______________________________________________________________       
                                                                               
         NON-INSECT                                                            
         __________                                                            
                                                                               
         Mites/Spider Mites                                                    
         __________________                                                    
                                                                               
     64. General:    Reddish  brown or pale in color; spiderlike with eight    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         legs and no antennae, thorax, or wings; about 1/150 to  1/50  inch    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         long.  Eggs are laid at the base of plants or on leaves and buds.     
         _________________________________________________________________     
                                                                               
     65. Life  Cycle:   Many generations per year, the life cycle often re-    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         quiring only a few days.  Adult mites hibernate in debris or under    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         bark.                                                                 
         _____                                                                 
                                                                               
     66. Host Plants:   Various species feed on  many  plants,  particulary    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         fruit  trees  and  various small fruits.  European red mites are a    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         major problem on apple trees in the Northeast.                        
         ______________________________________________                        
                                                                               
     67. Feeding Habits:  Mites feed on leaves, fruits,  and  roots.    In-    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         fested  leaves  become silvery and may turn yellow.  They curl and    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         may be covered with a fine web.  Fruit may be  russeted,  dry  and    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         rough  or deformed.  A few species of mites form blisters on young    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         leaves.                                                               
         _______                                                               
                                                                               
     68. Insect Predators:  Lacewings, lady beetles, predatory mites.          
     ___ ____________________________________________________________          
                                                                               
     69. Natural Controls:  Spray brisk stream of cold water on leaves.        
     ___ ______________________________________________________________        
                                                                               
         Slugs and Snails                                                      
         ________________                                                      
                                                                               
     70. General:  Gray to black to brown; soft bodied,  often  with  asoft    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         hump in the center; eyes at the tips of small tentacles; two other    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         tentacles  used  for smelling.   Snails have a single shell; slugs    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         have none; 1/2 to 3 inches long.                                      
         ________________________________                                      
                                                                               
     71. Life Cycle:  Several years are required to complete the  life  cy-    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         cle. Winter is spent in the soil or in garden litter.                 
         _____________________________________________________                 
                                                                               
     72. Host  Plants:    Many  garden and orchard crops.   Feeding Habits:    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         Most slugs and snails feed at night, spending the day beneath  de-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         caying  boards  or  in garden trash.  They scrape holes in foliage    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         and may cause extensive damage.  Some snail species are predaceous    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         and feed on many different small insects.                             
         _________________________________________                             
                                                                               
     73. Natural Controls:  Handpick slugs and snails when they  emerge  in    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         the  evenings.    Dust  with  diatomaceous  earth for more serious    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         infestations.  Trap slugs under boards or shingles.  Trap slugs in    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         containers of stale beer.  (Pans of beer must be recessed in  soil    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         so that lip of pan is flush with soil surface.)                       
         _______________________________________________                       
                                                                               
                                                                          8    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
         BENEFICIAL INSECTS;                                                   
         ___________________                                                   
         BEETLE                                                                
         ______                                                                
                                                                               
         Lady Beetle                                                           
         ___________                                                           
                                                                               
     74. General:    Orange  or  red,  usually  with  12 black spots, black    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         pronotum with two white stripes and white  rims;  1/4  inch  long.    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         Eggs  are  orange, cylindrical.  Larva is black with orange spots;    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         long, flat; 1/2 inch long.                                            
         __________________________                                            
                                                                               
     75. Life Cycle:   One generation per year.   In  most  regions  adults    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         overwinter in garden trash.                                           
         ___________________________                                           
                                                                               
     76. Feeding Habits:  Adults and larvae are important predators of many    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         aphids and sometimes feed on mealybugs, scales, or other small in-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         sects.                                                                
         ______                                                                
                                                                               
         Lady Beetle (with no spots)                                           
         ___________________________                                           
                                                                               
     77. General:    Orange  to  bright  red  wing  covers  with  few or no    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         markings, black and white marks just behind the head; 1/10 to  1/4    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         inch  long.    Eggs are orange; laid upright in clusters on leaves    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         and stems.  Larva is grayish, flat bodies wrinkled.                   
         ___________________________________________________                   
                                                                               
     78. Range:  Western United States.  Similar species distributed in the    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         South and West.                                                       
         _______________                                                       
                                                                               
     79. Life Cycle:  Many generations per year.  Overwinter as adults.        
     ___ ______________________________________________________________        
                                                                               
     80. Feeding Habits:   Larvae and adults  eat  aphids,  mealybugs,  and    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         scales.                                                               
         _______                                                               
                                                                               
         LACEWING                                                              
         ________                                                              
                                                                               
         Green Lacewing                                                        
         ______________                                                        
                                                                               
     81. General:  Pale green; slender body with delicate long green wings;    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         1/2 to 3/4 inches long.  Eggs are white, laid on slender stalks on    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         the  underside  of  leaves.    Larva  is yellowish gray with brown    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         marks, turfs of hair, long jaws.                                      
         ________________________________                                      
                                                                               
     82. Life Cycle:  Three to four generations per year.  Passes the  win-    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         ter in the pupal stage.                                               
         _______________________                                               
                                                                               
     83. Feeding  Habits:    Many  adult and larvae prey on aphids, various    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         larvae, and the eggs of other insects.                                
         ______________________________________                                
                                                                               
         WASP                                                                  
         ____                                                                  
                                                                               
         Braconid Wasps                                                        
         ______________                                                        
                                                                               
                                                                          9    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     84. General:  Black, yellowish or red; 1/10 to 1/4 inch  long.    Eggs    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         are  laid  in  the bodies of hosts.  Larva is white; wormlike, de-    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         velop within the host.                                                
         ______________________                                                
                                                                               
     85. Life Cycle:  Usually several generations per year.   Most  species    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         hibernate as larvae or pupae in their hosts.                          
         ____________________________________________                          
                                                                               
     86. Feeding  Habits:    Adults  lay  eggs  on  the  larvae  of various    
     ___ __________________________________________________________________    
         caterpillars or aphids.  Larvae may feed within the host or on the    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         surface.  Often brown cocoons are seen on the backs  of  hornworms    
         __________________________________________________________________    
         and other caterpillars.                                               
         _______________________                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                         10    
-End-                                                                           
-Title-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VA TECH HORT FACTS                                                              
SCRIPT/VS 3.0.1: DEVICE 1403W6 CHARS MONO                                      
{                                                                               
                                                                               
                            VINES FOR THE LANDSCAPE                            
                            _______________________                            
                                                                               
     1.  Akebia quinat.  A Fiveleaf Akebia Decid.  Sun to shade.               
                                                                               
            A  very  aggressive  twining  vine  with  small purple flowers.    
         Needs support. Can become a nuisance if not controlled  carefully.    
         Also called Chocolate Vine.                                           
                                                                               
     2.  Ampelopsis  brevi  -  Blueberry or Porcelain Decid.  Sun to shade.    
         Pedunculata  Ampelopsis.  Better fruiting in sun.                     
                                                                               
            Beautiful maroon tinged foliage  color  and  small,  blue-black    
         fruit.  Vigorous grower.  Climbs by attaching tendrils to trellis-    
         type support.                                                         
                                                                               
     3.  Campsis radicans.  Trumpet Creeper Decid.  Sun to shade.              
                                                                               
            Native vine with large, orange, bell-shaped flowers in  summer.    
         Strong  shrubby  vine  which clings to stone or wood by holdfasts.    
         Very large and rampant.   Easy to propagate by  cutting  or  seed.    
         Spreads by root suckers. Can become weedy.                            
                                                                               
     4.  Clematis  cultivars.  Clematis Decid.  Sun to shade.  Best flowers    
         in sun.                                                               
                                                                               
            Large 4-5" flowers. Cultivars include   Huldine  (white);  Mme.    
         Andre (crimson); Gypsy Queen (dark purple); Jackman (blue-violet).    
         All  these  bloom  on  new  wood so early spring pruning is recom-    
         mended. Needs moist, cool soil and support.                           
                                                                               
     5.  Clematis Sweet Autumn Semi-Sun paniculata.  Clematis Evergreen.       
                                                                               
            Heavy white fragrant flower cover in late summer,  followed  by    
         attractive  fluffy seed heads. A very vigorous vine that is little    
         affected by insect pests or diseases.  Useful on fence for screen-    
         ing.                                                                  
                                                                               
     6.  Euonymus fortunei  Bigleaf   Evergr.   Plant in partial  shade  to    
         avoid 'Vegetus' Wintercreeper winter burn.                            
                                                                               
            An  excellent  semi-shrub  with round 1- 1 1/2" diameter leaves    
         and very effective orange fruit. Relatively slow growing  compared    
         to  most  vines. Can be grown as a shrub to about 4 feet. Responds    
         well to pruning. A clinging type that adapts well to walls, fences    
         or most any type of support. Showy fruit in fall.                     
                                                                               
     7.  Gelsemium Carolina Jessamine Evergr.  Sun to shade.  sempervirens.    
                                                                               
            Native to zone 8 and 9.  Beautiful, yellow, bell-shaped flowers    
         1" to 2" long in spring. Excellent twining vine. New double  flow-    
         ering  variety  is available. Needs well drained acid soil. Plants    
         are poisonous if eaten. (Southeast Virginia only.)                    
                                                                               
                                                                          1    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
     8.  Hedera helix  English Ivy Evergr.  Semi-shade to shade.               
                                                                               
            Should not be used on wooden  structures  since  rootlets  will    
         promote  rotting  of lumber.  Excellent for chain link fences, but    
         keep excess foliage and stems pruned to reduce weight and pull  on    
         fence.  Many  cultivars  available. Root like holdfasts allow this    
         ivy to climb tree trunks and stone walls.                             
                                                                               
     9.  Hydrangea anomal.  A Climbing Hydrange.  A Decid.   Sun to  Shade.    
         petiolaris.                                                           
                                                                               
            Excellent clinging vine, with spectacular white flower clusters    
         borne  in  profusion  in June. The shredding red-brown bark is at-    
         tractive in winter.                                                   
                                                                               
     10. Ipomoea purpure a Morning Glory Annual.  Sun to semishade.            
                                                                               
            New cultivars are super.  Try  'Blue  Star',  'Heavenly  Blue',    
         'Pearly  Gates' and 'Scarlett O'Hara.  Easily grown from seed. Na-    
         tive types self-seed and can become weedy.    Twining  vine  needs    
         support.                                                              
                                                                               
     11. Lonicera  heckrotti.    Everblooming  Decid.    Sun  to semishade.    
         Honeysuckle.                                                          
                                                                               
            One of the best climbing honeysuckles. Blooms  throughout  sum-    
         mer.  Purple blooms with yellow centers.                              
                                                                               
     12. Parthenocissus   Virginia   Creeper   Decid.      Sun   to  shade.    
         quinquefolia.                                                         
                                                                               
            Vine climbs by tendrils.  Do not use on  wooden  structures  as    
         rootlets will promote rotting of lumber. Excellent for fall color.    
         Fruit attracts birds.  Easily propagated by cuttings or seed.         
                                                                               
     13. Parthenocissus Boston Ivy Decid.  Sun to shade.  tricuspidata.        
                                                                               
            Simple,  3-lobed leaves help you distinguish this from Virginia    
         Creeper which has five leaflets. Excellent fall  color  and  fruit    
         for  birds.  Do  not  use on wooden structures. Nice against stone    
         work.                                                                 
                                                                               
     14. Wisteria floribund. A Japanese Wisteri.  A Decid.  Sun.               
                                                                               
            Not as widely grown in the U.S. as Chinese Wisteria. This  vig-    
         orous  twining  vine  has flowers in racemes up to 3 feet long (in    
         the purple variety, Macrobotrys). The flowers open  progressively,    
         top  to  bottom, so that by the time the lower flowers have opened    
         the upper ones have faded. Heavy fragrance.                           
                                                                               
     15. Wisteria sinensis Chinese Wisteri.  A Decid.  Sun to shade.           
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                          2    
{                                                                               
                                                                               
            Very large twining vine with large clusters of fragrant  purple    
         flowers which resemble grape clusters. Roots spread into surround-    
         ing areas unless confined by walks, walls, or buildings.              
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                               
                                                                          3    
-End-                                                                           

-Title-
EARWIGS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
EARWIGS

     Adult earwigs are flattened insects, up to one and one-
fourth inches in length, and light red-brown to black.  Some
species are wingless but others have a pair of leathery forewings
covering a few segments of the abdomen and the membranous hind
wings, which have the tips protruding.

     The forceps-like appendages at the end of the abdomen are
strongly curved in the male.  The female's are smaller and less
curved.  The forceps are used primarily for defense and during
courtship and cannot harm man.

     Eggs are laid in small batches or clutches in a chamber two
to three inches beneath the soil surface.  The mother guards the
eggs and the newly hatched young.  After the first molt, the
young leave the nest and fend for themselves.  They differ from
the adults in color pattern, forceps' shape and size, lack of
wings, and in body size.  The young usually mature in one season
and most species in this country have one generation per year,
overwintering as eggs or adults in the soil.  Some tunnel as
deeply as six feet to escape the cold.

     Eggs and young require moisture.  Heavy rains are
detrimental to both forms as are rapid temperature changes.

     Earwigs are primarily scavengers on dead insects and rotted
plant materials.  Some species are predators; others feed on
living plants and often become pests in greenhouses and field
crops.

     They are active at night and some species are attracted to
lights in large numbers.  During the day they usually find
shelter beneath stones, boards, sidewalks, or debris.  Earwigs
are rapid runners and migrate short distances in this manner.
Only a few of the winged species are good fliers.  They are often
transported great distances in plant materials and occasionally
in other freight.

     Control.  Chemical control consists of the applications made
outdoors, since the problem originates outdoors.  Sevin (2
percent) will provide effective control of earwigs.  The
effectiveness of chemical treatments may be enhanced by removing
debris sheltering earwigs.  If earwigs already have gained
entrance to a building, indoor treating is desirable although
those indoors will die off eventually.

     Outdoor Chemical Applications.  Apply insecticides around
the building foundation, in subfloor crawl spaces, and to flower
beds and turf within a couple of yards of the building.  Mulches
in such flower beds should be treated very thoroughly from top to
bottom.

     Apply sprays in late afternoon if possible so that residues
are fresh when the earwigs become active in the evening.  Earwigs
are protected during the day when they are beneath debris or
below the soil surface.  Emulsifiable concentrates or wettable
powders can be used with good results.  Apply insecticides at the
rate recommended on the label, but use sufficient water so that
the water carries the toxicant down to the zone where the earwigs
are active.

     Indoor Chemical Applications.  Indoor treatment is only a
supplement to outdoor treatment to eliminate those earwigs
already indoors.  Indoor treatment alone will not solve the
problem.  Use aerosol insecticides registered for indoor use.
Indoor treatment generally consists of residual sprays applied to
baseboards, beneath cabinets, and other hiding places at floor
level.  For most earwig treatments indoors, the insecticides used
for cockroaches are effective.





-End-
-Title-
SOLDIER BEETLE LARVAE
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
SOLDIER BEETLE LARVAE

     The larvae of solder beetles are on the move in the fall.
The small (half inch), velvety-brown larvae have well-developed
legs and prominent mouth parts.  They feed on other insects found
in the grass surrounding houses.  The adult beetles are yellow
and black and usually go unnoticed.  In the fall the larvae
migrate toward buildings (for the heat?), apparently looking for
a place to overwinter.  They can occur in great numbers, and
cause quite a stir!  These larvae frequently show up on patios
and sidewalks around houses.  They will not infest the house or
bite humans.  If control is needed, 2 percent carbaryl (Sevin)
will be effective.
-End-
-Title-
DRAIN FLIES/MOTH FLIES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
DRAIN FLIES/MOTH FLIES

     Drain flies (or moth flies) are small, dark, fussy, moth-
like insects.  They are often found clinging to the walls of
bathrooms, kitchens, or in the basement.  They are weak fliers,
typically flying but a few feet at a time.  Although these flies
do not bite, they can be an annoyance in the home.

     Drain flies breed in polluted shallow water or the scum that
often collects around drains.  They are perhaps the most common
insect inhabitant of sewage treatment plants.  In the home, drain
flies lay their eggs in the gelatinous material which accumulates
on the sides of drains and overflow pipes, and the larvae feed on
the decaying organic matter and microscopic plants and animals
that occur there.  Adults usually emerge in a week or two,
although during the colder months of the year development may
take longer.  During the day, adult flies rest on walls or on the
sides of tubs and shower stalls.  They become more active at
night, hovering over drains, sinks and other breeding areas.
Because of their small size, drain flies are able to get into
residences from outside, sometimes through ordinary window
screen.

     Control of drain flies should be aimed at control of the
breeding sites.  The most effective control method is to clean
the drain pipes with a stiff brush, removing all the slime in
which the flies breed.  Sometimes it may be necessary to remove
the trap to thoroughly eliminate the breeding media.  Pouring
water down the drain provides short-term control.  Drain fly
larvae are difficult to drown because they are able to trap an
air bubble and remain submerged for a day or more.

-End-
-Title-
LARDER BEETLES IN HOUSES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
LARDER BEETLES IN HOUSES

     The larder beetle is often found in houses--and not just in
the larder! (the kitchen).  This beetle is a member of the carpet
beetle family Dermestidae; however, the larder beetle, Dermestes
lardarius can feed on a great variety of materials--not just
carpets.  They will feed on any stored animal or plant products,
such as leather, insect, bird, and mammal specimens, cured meats,
cheese, tobacco, dried fish meal, and a few things we can't even
mention!

     Outdoors the life cycle of this insect is regulated by the
seasons; indoors it may breed continuously throughout the year.
Eggs are laid in batches of 6-8, with the total per female being
about 200.  The larvae are dark colored and covered with dark
brown hairs.  The larvae pass through five or six stages during
the 35 to 80 days of their life.  The larvae have a strong
tendency to remain in dark places.  Just before the larvae pupate
they begin to migrate, and are often encountered by homeowners at
this time.  These older larvae often bore into materials such as
wood, cork, or insulation looking for a place to pupate.  The
pupal period lasts about 15 days.  The adults mate soon after
emerging and eggs are laid near a food source.

     Control.  Identifying and eliminating the food source is the
first step in controlling these pests.  Larder beetles found in
and around the kitchen may be infesting stored food.  Larvae or
adults found in an upstairs room or attic may be infesting a dead
animal.  Consider all the possibilities for food when looking for
an in-house infestation site.  Applying aerosol chemicals in
areas where larvae are found may provide some control.  However,
larvae do travel when they are full grown and the place they are
sited may be far from the actual food source!

-End-
-Title-
CARPET BEETLES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
CARPET BEETLES

     The four most important and most common species are the
black carpet beetle (Attagenus mezatoma), the varied carpet
beetle (Anthrenus verbasci), the common carpet beetle (Anthrenus
scrophulariae), and the furniture beetle (Anthrenus flavipes).
The adults feed primarily on pollen and nectar and can be found
on plants outdoors during the summer.  The larval stages cause
damage to a variety of material.  Their preferred food varies
with the species, but all carpet beetles larvae can feed on wool
carpets and other wool products, furs, hides, horns, feathers,
hair, and silk.  They will also feed on linen, cotton, and rayon
if these fabrics are soiled with juice, food, or animal excreta.
They can be pests in cereals, stored grains, nuts, meal, Indian
corn, red pepper, and similar products.  Carpet beetle larvae are
frequently pests of insect collections and other museum
specimens.

     All of these beetle species have a complete life cycle--egg,
larva, pupa, and adult.  Adult carpet beetles are commonly found
outdoors on flower heads and indoors at windows.  They are small,
oval insects, usually less than one-fourth of an inch long.
Adults can mate and reproduce without feeding.  Females can lay
from 30 to 100 eggs, depending on the species.  Eggs are laid in
lint, behind and under baseboards, in floor cracks, or other dark
and protected locations.  Eggs hatch in one to three weeks.

     Larvae develop over a 3 to 36 month period, and can molt
(shed their skin) from 5 to 12 times.  The old skins are often
mistaken for live larvae, and can give the impression of a larger
infestation than really exists.  Carpet beetle larvae are usually
about the size of the adult beetle, one-fourth inch or less in
length.  They have dense tufts of long setae (bristles) on their
bodies.  Carpet beetle larvae often wander about the infested
location--from room to room in a house.  This behavior results in
spreading the infestation throughout the house.  The pupal stage
lasts 6 to 24 days, but the adult may take up to three weeks
before it emerges.

     Control.  The best way to attack a carpet beetle problem is
prevention!  Vacuum regularly, do not store soiled fabrics (that
is fabric that has been exposed to food spills), and use moth
crystals or flakes when storing wool or other potential food of
carpet beetles.  When an infestation has become established, it
is necessary to locate--as best possible--the source of the
infestation in the house.  Check all potential food materials
inside the house.  Carpet beetles may be coming from an abandoned
bird nest or bee/wasp nest or from a dead mouse or squirrel in a
wall.  Discard all infested material.  Household aerosol sprays
should be directed at suspected areas.  A professional pest
control operator can be contacted.  If so, insecticides such as
Ficam (odorless), diazinon, Dursban L.O. (low odor), Safrotin
(low odor), or Baygon can be used.
-End-
-Title-
CLUSTER FLIES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
CLUSTER FLIES

     The cluster fly is slightly larger than the common house
fly.  There are no distinct lines or stripes behind the head, and
the abdomen has irregular light and dark gray areas.  Cluster
flies are parasitic on certain earthworms.  The female lays eggs
in the soil near the burrows of earthworms.  The tiny maggots
that hatch from the eggs seek out earthworms to feed upon.  The
maggots of cluster flies have never been reared on any other food
but living earthworms.  When full grown, the parasitic maggot
leaves the body of the host and enters the soil.  There are about
four generations a year.

     Adult flies of the last generation of the year become
numerous during the latter days of September to mid-October.  As
cold weather progresses, adults seek protected places to spend
the winter.  In many cases, this is within walls, attics, storage
rooms, and basements of homes.  Screens offer no protection since
these flies prefer to crawl in through small openings elsewhere
around the building.  For this reason they are extremely
difficult to keep out of homes.  Isolated homes in the country
are especially prone to invasion, since they offer the only warm
shelter for miles around.

     Control.  Complete control of cluster flies is almost
impossible, since the overwintering adults are concealed in
walls, attics, etc.  When possible, cover the louver to the attic
with screen, and use a caulking compound to seal openings to the
outside.  Adults are sluggish enough in the winter to be picked
up with a vacuum cleaner.

     It is probably not practical to attempt to control the host
of cluster flies -- earthworms in the ground around the house.
Earthworms are important to soil, and cluster flies would simply
come from surrounding areas.  Chemical control should be
concentrated in the home where the adults hibernate.  An easy
method of chemical control is to use dichlorvos strips (Vapona)
in the attic, storage closets, etc.  Do not apply in bedrooms or
in wallpapered or other well-finished rooms.

     When using the strips or the spray, it may be more effective
to concentrate the chemical on the sunny side of the house.
These walls are the warmer and generally attract more flies.

     Adults that buzz about the house can be killed with an
aerosol spray of pyrethrins.  Pyrethrins are "quick kill"
insecticides and have little or no residual action.

     Prevention of cluster fly infestations is very difficult,
but certainly warrants a try.  Timing is the most important
factor.  Applying a synthetic pyrethroid (permethrin is an
example) to the outside of the structure with an electric fogging
machine will help treat all entry sites.  Application should be
made in the first two weeks of August.
-End-
-Title-
OLD HOUSE BORER
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
OLD HOUSE BORER

     The chewing sounds produced by the feeding of old house
borer larvae can be heard in wood during the spring and summer
months.  The larvae feed little during the winter months of
December through February.  The larvae can live in seasoned
softwood for several years.  When the adults are full grown,
which usually takes about five years, they emerge through oval
holes in the surface of the wood.  Emergence occurs during June
and July.  During the first few years of feeding, the larvae
cannot be heard, but when they are about four years old the
chewing sounds are audible.  The actual structural damage caused
by these beetles depends on the number of larvae feeding, the
extent of the infestation (how many years), and whether there has
been a reinfestation.

     Control of old house borers involves the use of insecticides
applied to the surface of wood or the use of an insecticidal gas
(fumigation).  When there is an extensive and active infestation
of this insect, fumigation may be the best control method.
However, limited infestations can be controlled by applying
insecticides to the surface of the wood to prevent reinfestation,
and perhaps kill larvae that may feed close to the surface and
contact the chemical just below the surface.

-End-
-Title-
ELM LEAF BEETLE
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
ELM LEAF BEETLE

     Elm leaf beetles are a pest in and around homes in the fall
and spring.  The adult beetles usually overwinter in houses,
garages, barns, etc.; and when the days warm up in the spring and
the trees begin to leaf out, the adult beetles move about, and
leave the house.  They are frequently overlooked or stay hidden
during the winter months, but are noticed in the spring.

     Description and Life History.  The adult beetle is about 1/4
inch long, yellowish to olive green with a black stripe along
each side of the back.  The stripes are sometimes indistinct in
the dark green forms.  There are 3-4 black spots on the region
behind the head.

     In the spring and summer the larvae and adult beetles feed
on the leaves of elms.  Successive generations continue
throughout the summer and into fall when the adults seeking
shelter for overwintering, again invade houses.

     Control.  Obviously there is no danger to household foods or
materials from these insects.  They will not infest the house --
simply spend the winter there.  Control of these insects should
be directed toward the larvae and adults on the trees.
Preventing the beetles from entering the house may be possible.
Use a caulking compound to fill in cracks around doors and
windows and all other openings large enough for insects to go
through.  Sevin can be used to kill adults outdoors, but should
not be used indoors.  A commercial aerosol can be used indoors.
-End-
-Title-
CARPENTER BEES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
CARPENTER BEES

     These insects build their nests in wood siding, the ends of
logs used in modern log houses, or other areas where bare or
painted wood is exposed.  The males and females cut a one-half
inch circular hole into the wood, then create a tunnel parallel
to the surface of the wood.  Within the tunnel the female stores
food and lays eggs.  The developing carpenter bee larvae are in
individual cells in the tunnel.  There is usually only one
generation per year.  Carpenter bees are large bees, resembling
bumblebees.

     Control of these insects can be achieved by spraying the
entrance hole with an aerosol insecticide.  Existing holes can be
plugged with a moth ball to prevent adults from returning or the
second generation adults from emerging.
-End-
-Title-
BROWN RECLUSE SPIDERS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
BROWN RECLUSE SPIDERS

     Brown recluse spiders belong to a group of spiders commonly
known as violin spiders or fiddlebacks.  This is because of a
characteristic fiddle-shaped pattern they have on their head
region.  The spider is golden brown with the fiddle being dark
brown or black.  This spider is not hairy and the fiddle pattern
is often shiny.  They are about one-fourth to three-fourths inch
long.

     Brown recluse spiders are found primarily in the mid-west.
Many cases of bites are reported from Texas, Kansas, Missouri,
and Oklahoma.  The edge of its range just reaches the tip of
western Virginia, but it occurs very rarely in this state.

     The spider commonly lives in basements and garages of houses
and often hides behind boards and boxes.  Bites often occur when
the spiders hide in towels or old clothes left in those areas.
The severity of the bite may vary.  The symptoms may vary from no
harm at all to a reaction that is very severe.  Often there is a
systemic reaction, within 24-36 hours, characterized by
restlessness, fever, chills, nausea, weakness, and joint pain.
Where the bite occurs there is often tissue death and skin is
sloughed off.  In some bad cases, a wound may develop that lasts
several months.  In all cases, a physician should be notified.
If at all possible, kill and take the spider to the physician for
positive identification.

     Control.  Individual spiders can be crushed underfoot or
sprayed with an aerosol spray.  Clean up and remove any potential
hiding places.

     Important note:  Many of the wolf spiders are similar in
appearance and have similar markings as the brown recluse.  They
are large, robust, and hairy and, therefore, can be distinguished
from the brown recluse.


-End-
-Title-
BLACK WIDOW SPIDER
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
BLACK WIDOW SPIDER

     Black widow spiders are common around wood piles, and are
frequently encountered when homeowners carry firewood into the
house.

     The black widow is not aggressive.  They will, however, bite
instinctively when touched or pressed, and for this reason one
should be very careful when working around areas where black
widows may be established.  Take proper precautions - wear gloves
and pay attention to where you are working.

     Black widow bites are sharp and painful, and the victim
should go to the doctor immediately for treatment.  It is
important to recognize this spider and describe the symptoms
accurately and fully so the physician can diagnose the trouble
correctly.

     To control the black widow, carefully remove all materials
where they might hide.  They can be cleaned out of an area simply
by knocking the webs, spiders, and round tan egg sacs down with a
stick and crushing them underfoot.

-End-
-Title-
TERMITES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
TERMITES

     Termite damage is usually first seen at or near the ground.
However, damage can occur far above ground if the infestation has
remained undetected for a long period.  Termite-damaged wood has
no sawdust associated with it, but the wood does contain mud
tubes, and the galleries are lined with soil.  Termite damage is
sometimes located in wood adjacent to heaters or fireplaces.
Perhaps the soil in these areas remains at higher temperatures
during the winter, or the drainage around fireplaces is poor and
the soil remains moist for long periods.  Termites actually eat
wood and can cause physical damage.  Termites often attack wood
that is touching soil or close to it.

     Control of subterranean termites is best left in the hands
of a professional pest control operator.  The application of
termiticides in and around the home--around pipes, wells, and
heating ducts--requires experience and the proper tools.

     Chlordane has been removed from the market, but there are
many other chemicals available for the prevention and control of
termites.

     Dursban TC is an insecticide that is registered for the
prevention and control of subterranean termites.  This is a
relatively new formulation and use for dursban, but it is gaining
in use.  Homeowners should be aware that this chemical is not
more effective than chlordane, not safer than chlordane, and not
the same price as chlordane.  Dursban TC is applied in a manner
similar to chlordane.  The residual life of dursban is less than
chlordane, so retreatment may be necessary in 15-20 years.
Dursban is slightly more expensive than chlordane.
-End-
-Title-
CREMATOGASTER ANTS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
CREMATOGASTER ANTS

     These ants are very small and reddish brown.  They infest
moisture damaged wood by building nests and tunneling out small
to large areas in the wood.  They can be found in areas adjacent
to downspouts or in roofs that have small leaks.  They are
usually associated with houses on wooded lots.  The amount of
damage caused by these ants is minimal--they are small and seem
to restrict their nest building and tunneling to the moisture-
damaged wood.  However, they can produce a quantity of fine
sawdust or frass, and that can cause some concern to homeowners.

     Control of these small ants is best achieved by removing the
damaged wood.  The very presence of these ants indicates that the
wood is damaged by moisture, and that there is a structural fault
somewhere.  Replacement of the wood would control the ants and
correct the structural problem.

-End-
-Title-
MIDGES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
MIDGES

     The name "midge" is best applied to the mosquito-like flies
in the family Chironomidae.  Midges are different from
mosquitoes:  the females do not bite (mosquito females do!); the
males have large, bushy antennae (mosquitoes don't).  Adults
frequently collect in large swarms in late afternoon or evening
near streams, ponds, and lakes.  They are often attracted to
outdoor lights of houses close to these swarming sites.  The
adults produce a high pitched humming sound when they swarm.

     Midges breed chiefly in water, but some develop in decaying
vegetation, manure, or under bark of trees.  Because larvae occur
in huge numbers in water, they are an important source of food
for many species of fish.  Adults emerge in the spring,
frequently in large numbers.  Houses adjacent to the emergence
sites can be over-run with these flies.  Although they do not
bite, the adults can be a severe nuisance simply by their
numbers!

     Control is nearly impossible.  Streams, ponds, and lakes
cannot (and should not!) be treated with insecticides to control
these flies.  Fogging for adults is not practical.

-End-
-Title-
CLOTHES MOTHS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
CLOTHES MOTHS

     Clothes moths can feed on wool products, such as clothing,
carpets, rugs, furs, fabrics, blankets, and piano felts.  They
may feed on fabrics of vegetable origin (cotton) if the fabrics
are mixed with wool or soiled with food particles.  These
articles must be protected from clothes moth attack, either by
frequent cleaning or storing in insect-free environments.

     Clothes moths can be serious pests of small or large wool
rugs.  The caterpillars can feed on the underside of the carpet
for a long time--do considerable damage--before they are
detected.  Wool rugs should be inspected and cleaned (if small
enough) on a regular basis.

     Clothes moths are small, yellowish to slightly gold colored
moths with narrow, slightly pointed wings.  They are not
attracted to lights and usually hide when disturbed.
-End-
-Title-
FUNGUS GNATS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
FUNGUS GNATS

     Fungus gnats are small (1/8 inch), brown or black flies that
are common household pests.  They are usually seen flying at
windows and around potted plants.  Homeowners usually notice
these small flies when they water their potted plants; the flies
become distrubed and fly around.  The larvae of fungus gnats live
in moist soil and feed on decaying organic matter.  These
conditions are abundant outside in the fall season and nearly
year round in potted plants.  Although the larvae rarely attack
healthy plant roots, they may nibble at a few and reduce the
vitality of house plants.

     Control of fungus gnats in the house is relatively simple.
Adult fungus gnats are attracted to moist, organically-rich soil.
Examine all house plants for "overwatered soil."  Allowing the
soil to dry out for several days (or longer) is probably the best
control of these pests.  The larvae live in the top layer of
soil, and if this becomes dry the larvae will die and the adults
will be denied a place to lay their eggs.

     An effective, chemical control of fungus gnat larvae is to
place a small amount of loose tobacco (2 shredded cigarettes) in
a glass of water.  Allow this "mixture" to sit for a day or two,
then pour over soil of infested plants.  The nicotene from the
tobacco will kill the fungus gnat larvae.

-End-
-Title-
WOOD ROACHES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
WOOD ROACHES

     Only a few of the thousands of species of cockroaches are
pests in the homes and other structures of man.  Most cockroaches
live outdoors and are rarely seen by homeowners.  Except for the
"woodroach"!  This cockroach is commonly encountered in homes in
the spring, and frequently causes some concern among homeowners.

     The wood cockroach lives outdoors in the leaf litter and
debris of wooded areas.  The adults of this cockroach are about
1/2 to 3/4 inch long, brown, and the outer edges of the wings are
pale.  The adult cockroaches are very capable flyers, and they
frequently fly to lights at night--especially the warm nights of
early spring and fall.  The adult cockroaches are active during
the spring and fall, and are frequently found in houses at this
time.  In the spring these insects are probably attracted to
outside lights at night.  In the fall the adults are probably
brought into the house with firewood.  In either case, this
species of cockroach does not infest houses--they are simply
casual or accidental invaders.

     Control of these infrequent cockroaches can be achieved with
a fly swatter or a nudge out the door!  An aerosol insecticide
can be used if considered necessary.  This insect will not take
up residence in structures, so chemical control is usually not
necessary.

-End-
-Title-
YELLOW ANTS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
YELLOW ANTS

     Yellow ants frequently swarm in the fall season -- causing
great concern!  They can appear around the outside of houses,
usually associated with a sidewalk, patio, other concrete slabs,
and foundation walls.  Their nests are in these locations, but go
unnoticed for most of the year.  They swarm in the spring and
fall, and there may be thousands of winged ants produced from one
or more nests in the area.  It is not uncommon for several nests
to swarm at the same time--producing lots of ants!  Yellow ants
are not structural pests.  They nest in soil or even in wood
close to houses, but rarely enter houses in search of food.  They
do not damage wood.  If control is necessary, use some liquid
insecticide (Sevin, diazinon, dursban) directly on the nest.
-End-
-Title-
AMERICAN AND ORIENTAL COCKROACHES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
AMERICAN AND ORIENTAL COCKROACHES

     American cockroach adults are one and one-half inches long,
reddish brown in color, and have a yellowish margin on the body
region behind the head.  When disturbed, these cockroaches run
rapidly and adults may fly.

     Oriental cockroach adults are one and one-fourth inches long
and dark reddish brown to black in color.  Females have only tiny
buds for wings.  Males have fully developed wings but cannot fly.
Unlike other pest cockroaches, oriental cockroaches move
sluggishly and cannot climb up smooth surfaces (they lack sticky
pads on their feet).  Immature cockroaches resemble adults except
that they are wingless.

     Females produce egg cases and carry them protruding from the
tip of the abdomen for about two days.  Egg cases are then
generally glued to a surface in a hidden location.  Egg cases are
3/8 inch long, brown, and purse shaped.  Immature cockroaches
emerge from egg cases in 6 to 8 weeks and require 6 to 12 months
to mature.  Adult cockroaches can live up to one year, during
which females produce an average of 150 young.

     American and oriental cockroaches generally live in moist
areas, but can survive in dry areas if they have access to water.
American cockroaches prefer warm temperatures around 84 degrees
Fahrenheit and do not tolerate cold temperatures.  In residential
areas, these cockroaches live in basements and sewers, and may
move outdoors into yards during warm weather.  Oriental
cockroaches prefer cooler temperatures around 75 degrees
Fahrenheit and can overwinter in protected areas outdoors where
temperatures average 40 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit.  These
cockroaches are common in basements, crawl spaces, cracks and
crevices of porches, foundations, and walkways adjacent to
buildings.  American and oriental cockroaches feed on a wide
variety of plant and animal material.

     Control.  Due to the large size and slow development of
American and oriental cockroaches, large infestations of these
insects are not common within homes.  However, during certain
times of the year, American and oriental cockroaches may move
inside a home from outside sources.  For example, in winter these
cockroaches may move indoors, seeking warmer temperatures and
food.  Cockroaches may enter homes via sewer connections, under
doors, around utility pipes, air ducts, or other openings in the
foundation.  Exclusion is the best way to control this inward
movement of cockroaches.  Place fine mesh screening over crawl
space vents and basement floor drains.  Seal exterior doors with
weather stripping.  Fill gaps in walls and floors where pipes
enter using steel wool and/or caulking compounds.  Cockroach
populations in basements can be reduced by decreasing dampness
and applying insecticides in cracks and crevices where there is
evidence of cockroach activity (presence of egg cases, dead
cockroaches, brown fecal smears).

     Cockroach populations around the perimeter of homes are more
difficult to control.  First, limit the availability of food and
water.  Place garbage in trash cans, not plastic bags.  (Plastic
bags rip easily).  Divert water from gutters at least 3 feet away
from the foundation.  Secondly, reduce hiding places for the
cockroaches.  Do not stack firewood or debris next to the
foundation.  Make a visual inspection about one to two hours
after sunset to locate cracks and crevices in the building from
which cockroaches are emerging.  Spray these areas with
insecticide and seal these cracks and crevices, if possible.

-End-
-Title-
BOOKLICE
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
BOOKLICE

     Booklice are small, almost microscopic insects that are
grouped together in the insect order Psocoptera.  Other members
of this order are the "barklice".  Although there are many
species of psocoptera, most people see only a few species that
occur in houses or buildings.  Most of the species found in
buildings are wingless, and because they often live among books
and papers, they are usually called "booklice".  The term "lice"
in the names "booklice" and "barklice" is somewhat misleading for
none of these insects if parasitic and they are not louselike in
appearance.  The majority of the psocopterans live outdoors and
occur on the bark or leaves of trees or shrubs.  A few species
live indoors, but rarely cause any damage beyond being a nuisance
to homeowners.

     Pcocopterans feed on molds, fungi, cereals, pollen,
fragments of dead insects or other similar materials.  Booklice
(in houses) are frequently found associated with old books and
papers.  Booklice are very common in libraries, paper storage
warehouses, packing and shipping warehouses that contain a lot of
cardboard boxes, accounting and billing offices, large
secretarial offices, and other places in which large quantities
of paper are stored or used on a daily basis.  In houses, these
small insects can be found infesting cereals, grits, flour, and
grain in the kitchen or basement.  They can be very common in the
late summer when temperatures and relative humidities are high.

     The most favorable environment for booklice is one of high
temperature and relative humidity.  The eggs are laid singly or
in clusters and are often covered with a silken web.  Most
species pass through six nymphal stages and time between egg and
adult can range from 30 to 60 days--depending on the environment.

     Control.  These insects are probably found in every house in
eastern and southeastern U.S.  They are usually present in small
numbers and go unnoticed.  However, when conditions are
favorable, and there is adequate food available, booklice can
become numerous and a nuisance.  There are a few instances in
which these small insects were the cause of delusory parasitosis,
that is, people thought that these tiny insects were causing
bites and skin rashes.  In fact, booklice do not bite humans.

     Adjusting the environment is the first step in controlling
booklice.  If there are unnecessary collections of books or
papers--remove them, especially if they are in the basement or
other damp storage area.  Reduce the relative humidity by heating
the environment for several days (over a weekend if a commercial
establishment).  If these methods fail to give adequate control,
the use of aerosol insecticides in areas where booklice have
occurred will be effective.  Whole-house spraying is not
necessary.

-End-
-Title-
CIGARETTE BEETLE
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
CIGARETTE BEETLE

     The cigarette beetle is one of the most common household
insect pests in Virginia.  It can be found throughout the year,
but seems to be more common in the fall and winter months.  As
its name implies, the cigarette beetle is a pest of dried tobacco
either in the stored, bundled form or in cigars, cigarettes, and
chewing tobacco.  But the larval stages of the cigarette beetle
can feed on a variety of stored products including grain, cereal
products, ginger, raisins, dates, pepper, dried fish, drugs, and
seeds.  This feeding habit often makes them a serious pantry
pest.  The range of food makes them difficult to control.

     Infestations of cigarette beetles have been reported from
dried flowers.  The larvae can feed within the head of the
flowers in the arrangement, causing the flower to drop or all the
petals to fall.  Infestations of this type may be "fumigated" by
placing a small amount of moth crystals and the flowers in a
plastic bag for a day or two.

     The adult beetles are oval, about 1/10 of an inch long, and
are covered with small hairs which give them a silky, yellowish-
brown color.  The female produces about 100 eggs, and they are
deposited on or near the available food supply.  The wormlike
larvae are slightly smaller than the adult beetles.  They are
creamy white except for the yellow head and brown mouthparts.
Larvae become full grown in about 40 days.  The entire life cycle
can be completed in 45-50 days, and there may be 3-6 generations
a year.

     Control.  The first step in control of the cigarette beetle
is to find the source of the infestation.  This means inspecting
all of the dried foods in the infested cabinets or drawers.  Once
the infested material is found, it should be destroyed.  Clean
all the cabinets and drawers with a vacuum cleaner (then throw
the cleaner bag away!).  Chemical sprays should be used only as a
last resort!

-End-
-Title-
SPRINGTAILS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
SPRINGTAILS

     Springtails are very small (rarely more than 1/5 inch long),
pale brown to cream colored insects that seem to hop and
disappear when disturbed.  The common name "springtail" has been
applied to these insects because of this habit of springing away.
A hook-like structure on the bottom side of the abdomen is
snapped against the ground and this propels the insect.
Springtails are commonly found in moist or damp places, usually
in contact with soil.  Homeowners encounter them in damp
basements and on the surface of the soil of household plants.

     Springtails have chewing mouthparts, but they rarely, if
ever, damage house plants (roots or leaves).  The moist, organic
soil of house plants provides them the proper environment to live
and increase in numbers.  Plants that are over-watered during the
fall and winter can support a large population of springtails in
the potting soil.  Frequently the plants begin to decline and
homeowners blame the springtails.  But not so!  Springtails
rarely cause the death of house plants -- over-watering can,
however.

     Control.  Controlling these tiny critters is not difficult -
here are the options:

1)   Do nothing, but stop over-watering the plant!  Let the soil
     dry out -- the springtails will leave or die.

2)   Soak a few cigarettes in a cup of water for a few days --
     then pour the water over the soil of the infested plants.
     The nicotine will kill the springtails.

3)   Place a few moth balls on the surface of the soil.

4)   Throw the plant out and start again.

-End-
-Title-
GROUND BEETLES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
GROUND BEETLES

     Ground beetles (Family Carabidae) are often found in houses
in the spring.  There are a great number of species of these
beetles, and some are rather ferocious looking -- resulting in
some very worried homeowners!  These shiny, blackish brown
beetles are predators on other insects and may enter houses in
the spring looking for other insects (=food).  They may simply
crawl around basements on ground floor rooms, or fly to bright
lights.

     Ground beetles have well developed mandibles, but are not
known to bite man.  They use their strong mouthparts to devour
other insects.  The larval stages of ground beetles are also
predators on insects, but they live in the grass and soil around
the house.  Certainly, there is no need to worry about these
beetles permanently infesting a house.  Extensive control
programs for these casual invaders is not recommended.

     Control of these beetles in the house is done best with an
aerosol spray or a fly swatter.  There is no need to apply
insecticides outside the house.  Ground beetles are beneficial
insects and an important part of the natural animal populations
in turf, pasture, and crop land.  Indeed some ground beetles are
an important natural control of some insect pests of corn.

-End-
-Title-
DRUG STORE BEETLE
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
DRUG STORE BEETLE

     The drug store beetle (Stegobium paniceum) is similar to the
cigarette beetle in appearance but is slightly larger, more
elongate, and has distinctly striated wing covers.  It is 2-3 mm
long.  The last three segments of the antennae are like a saw.
Its food is even more varied than that of the cigarette beetle,
and it is said to feed "upon almost anything except cast iron."
Its peculiar diet includes such odd materials as strychnine and
books as well as flour, oatmeal, spices, and other foods.

     Control of this pantry pest begins with the location of the
infested food.  A thorough clean up, using a vacuum cleaner to
get into the cracks and crevices, will control this pest.

-End-
-Title-
FRUIT FLIES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
FRUIT FLIES

     With the end of the summer season, many homeowners often
encounter fruit flies in and about their kitchens and near their
garbage storage areas.  The adult flies are very small insects,
about 1/8 inch long, and their body color is usually a light
yellow to tan color.  Fruit flies are weak fliers and they are
generally found hovering around decaying vegetation and overripe
fruit.  These pesky insects are often found in the kitchen,
especially when vegetable or fruit materials are present after
major home canning efforts.

     Female fruit flies lay their eggs on the surface of rotting
fruit.  These eggs hatch into larvae, which molt twice before
becoming full grown.  Fruit fly larvae feed on the yeast
organisms and fungi growing in the fruit and vegetable materials,
and through their feeding efforts, they soon turn their food into
a semi-liquid mess.  When the full grown larvae are ready to
pupate, they leave the rotten fruit for drier areas, usually to
the sides of the garbage can.  The time required to complete one
life cycle is mainly dependent on the temperature of the growth
medium and surrounding air; at 64 degrees Fahrenheit, it takes
18-20 days for growth from the egg stage to adult, while at 77
degrees Fahrenheit, only 8-10 days are required to complete the
stages of development.

     Control.  Should fruit flies become abundant, a careful
search for the larval breeding areas should be made by the
homeowner.  Removal of any overripe fruit or vegetable materials
should alleviate any recurrence of these insects.  Any lingering
adult flies in the kitchen my be destroyed via the judicious use
of a fly swatter or an aerosol spray.
-End-
-Title-
INDIAN MEAL MOTH
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
INDIAN MEAL MOTH

     The Indian meal moth is one of the most common and
troublesome of the moths infesting stored products.  The
caterpillar stage of this insect will feed on a variety of
grains, meal, breakfast foods, dried nuts, seeds, chocolate,
powdered milk, and especially dry pet foods.  Infested material
may be more or less webbed together.  Small two-colored moths
(gray and reddish-brown) will also be seen flying about the
infested area.

     The life cycle and habits of this pantry pest is similar to
other moths infesting stored products.  The adult moths usually
fly at night.  When at rest the wings are folded together along
the line of the body.  The front half of the forewings is a
grayish-white color, and the tip half is a reddish-brown color.
Eggs are laid on or near the food.  A female moth may deposit
from 40 to 350 eggs.  After hatching the small caterpillars begin
spinning silken threads in the infested food material.  They feed
for about two weeks before becoming full grown.  They crawl up to
the surface of the food material and pupate within a cocoon.  The
adult emerges in about 30 days.  The entire cycle requires about
six weeks and there are from 4-6 generations per year.

     Control of this pest begins with the location of the
infested food.  A thorough clean up, using a vacuum cleaner to
get into the cracks and crevices, will control this pest.

-End-
-Title-
WHEEL BUG
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
WHEEL BUG

     The wheel bug (Arilus cristatus) is a "monster" of the
insect world.  With its bizarre appearance and deadly beak, it is
a dreaded foe of other insects.  At the same time, it is a
beneficial ally of man.  The wheel bug is one of the largest
members of the family of insects known as assassin bugs.  Most
members of the family are predacious on other insects.

     The adult is brownish-black and about an inch long.  It has
a distinctive semi-circular crest behind the head which resembles
half a cogwheel (thus the name wheel bug).  The long, slender
antennae, beak, and ends of the legs are reddish brown.  The head
is very narrow and slightly constricted behind the eyes forming a
slender "neck."  Bending down and back from the front of the head
is a rigid, 3-segmented beak.

     The nymphs are small and lack the cogwheel crest.  Their
abdomen is bright red and curls upward when they are young.

     The wheel bug has one generation per year and overwinters as
barrel-shaped eggs cemented together in masses of 10-40 eggs
each.  The eggs hatch in May and June, and nymphs soon begin
hunting for prey.  Caterpillars are among their favorite meals.
The wheel bug spears its unfortunate host with its sharp beak and
sucks up the victim's body fluids.  They molt several times and
grow in size through the season.  By late summer they are adults
ready to mate and lay eggs.

     Control.  Wheel bugs are beneficial insects and should be
considered valuable allies.  Do not handle them, however, as they
can inflict a painful and lasting "bite" with their beak.
-End-
-Title-
PAPER WASPS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
PAPER WASPS

     Paper wasps are three-fourths to one inch long and have
longer legs and more slender bodies compared to yellow jackets
and hornets.  Their abdomen tapers at both ends.  Paper wasps are
sometimes called "umbrella wasps" because their nests consist of
a single exposed comb suspended by a narrow stalk.  Paper wasps
may be more inclined to build nests in attics than yellow jackets
or hornets because their nests lack an outer covering.

     Individual paper wasps and their nests can be sprayed with
an aerosol insecticide.  It is best to knock down the nest if
possible after spraying all the wasps on it.

-End-
-Title-
BARK BEETLES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
BARK BEETLES

     People often report large numbers of small brown beetles in
their houses.  These beetles are often seen collecting around
windows and lights.  These beetles are often bark beetles and
they usually come from firewood that is in the house.  Over 600
beetles in the family Scolytidae are commonly referred to as bark
beetles.  Species identification is difficult because nearly all
bark beetles are black or brown, cylindrical, hard-shelled, and
between one-eighth and one-third inch long.  Fortunately all
species have similar life cycles and species identification is
not necessary.

     Adult bark beetles bore through the bark to the cambium
layer of suitable host trees.  Females excavate a tunnel between
the bark and wood along which they lay their eggs.  Upon
hatching, each grub burrows away from the egg tunnel and feeds on
the live bark tissue (phloem) and outer cell layers of wood
(xylem).  The resulting network of egg and larval tunnels beneath
the bark is called a gallery.  The "shot hole" appearance seen on
firewood and trees indicates that many beetles have matured,
chewed exit holes, and flown off to find new breeding sites.
These breeding sites must be dying trees or live but weakened
trees because they will not infest dead wood.  This includes
houses.  They will not infest any wood found in a house.

     To control bark beetles, simply burn the firewood that is
infested first.  Try to keep all firewood outside until you are
ready to burn it.  Control the beetles indoors with an aerosol if
they become a nuisance.

-End-
-Title-
FLEAS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
FLEAS

     Adult fleas are about one-eighth inch long, wingless, and
very dark in color.  They have three pairs of legs, the hind pair
is modified for jumping.  Fleas are flat vertically like a fish
and can move easily through the hair of a host.  The immature
stage or larval stage of the flea looks like a small white worm
with a dark head.  Flea eggs are very small and white.

     Female fleas lay eggs loosely in the hosts (usually cat or
dog) hair.  The eggs drop off and hatch into tiny, hairy, worm-
like larvae.  The larvae are usually found where the animal
sleeps, along baseboards, in carpets, or on furniture.  Larvae
pupate and new adults emerge.  The new adults seek a host
immediately and must get a blood meal to survive and produce
eggs.  They will often bite humans especially when they cannot
find their usual animal host or if they become very numerous.
Their bite often will leave a small, red, irritated area on
humans.

     The cooler and drier fall weather will bring a reduction in
the number of household fleas.  However, dogs and cats that spend
much time indoors can still have problems until late fall, when
household heating significantly lowers the relative humidity.
House pets usually maintain small flea populations throughout the
winter, the numbers increase slowly in the spring, and may
"explode" in mid to late summer.  Although vacuuming only removes
a small percentage of the flea larvae in carpet, vacuuming can
remove a large percentage of flea eggs, if it is done on a
regular basis.  The key to successful household flea control is
frequent vacuuming of pet bedding and resting areas, treatment of
the pet, and careful use of insecticides.

-End-
-Title-
BOXELDER BUGS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
BOXELDER BUGS

     The boxelder bug becomes a pest in many homes each year in
fall and spring.

     This bug is about one-half inch long and one-third as wide.
It is black with three red lines on the thorax, a red line along
each side, and an oblique red line on each wing.  The wings lie
flat on the back when at rest.  The young nymphs are red and
gray.

     Feeding Habits.  Boxelder bugs normally feed on the leaves,
flowers, and seed pods of the boxelder tree.  The populations of
bugs may number into the thousands.  Large infestations are
usually on the female, or pod-bearing, tree.  While they may feed
on male boxelder trees and other trees and plants, they usually
do not build up to such large numbers.  The bugs cause little
damage to trees.

     Life Cycle.  The adult bugs lay eggs in the spring and the
nymphs emerge in a few days.  The nymphs are small and show more
red than adults.  These nymphs develop into adults during the
summer, then mate and lay eggs which hatch into the nymphs of the
second generation.  Activity of nearly fully grown nymphs is
noticed in August and September when they gather in large numbers
on the trunks of boxelder trees.  The migration of the adults
begins at this time.

     The adults' search for a place to overwinter brings them
into houses where they hide in small cracks and crevices in
walls, door and window casings, attics, and around the
foundation.  During warm days in winter and early spring they
come out and scatter through the house.  They are primarily a
nuisance as they crawl or fly about in the rooms.  They do no
damage by feeding, but their excrement spots on draperies are
difficult to remove.

     Non-chemical Control.  Boxelder bugs do not feed on
household structures, so there is no need for extensive chemical
control in the house.  The bugs can be cleaned up with a vacuum
cleaner.

     Eliminate hiding places such as piles of rocks, boards,
leaves, and general debris close to houses.  Repair places where
the bugs may enter the house, such as cracks around doors,
windows, weather-boarding, and in the foundation.

     Chemical Control.  If the bugs become so numerous, chemical
control may be necessary.

-End-
-Title-
YELLOW JACKETS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
YELLOW JACKETS

     Yellow jacket wasps are often pests in recreational areas in
Virginia from late summer until early autumn.  During this time
of year, wasp colonies have attained their largest size, and in
the vicinity of numerous colonies, foraging workers may become
serious pests as they search for food--usually food that is eaten
or discarded by people.  If a colony is disturbed, worker yellow
jackets will aggressively defend their colony by stinging.

     Like all wasps, yellow jackets are predators on a wide
variety of insects and other arthropods.  Yellow jackets are
unusual in that workers also forage on foods consumer by people,
especially sweets and meats.  Because of this habit, yellow
jackets are frequently found associated with recreational areas,
and may create a nuisance and life-threatening stinging episodes.

     Recent surveys indicate that between 0.5 and 1.0 percent of
the population may be allergic to yellow jacket venom.  For most
of us a sting may be just a temporary painful experience, but for
allergic individuals a single sting may result in a serious
reaction.

     Management of Yellow Jacket Foragers.  Destruction of all
yellow jackets in and around a recreational area is advised to
reduce the possibility of a dangerous sting.  Nests should be
located during the day when the workers are going and coming on a
regular basis; the location of the nest should be marked.  Return
late at night to treat the nest with a liquid insecticide.  The
destruction of individual colonies may not eliminate all the
yellow jacket workers from an area in which food is available.
This is because yellow jackets are capable of flying a mile from
their colonies in search of food.

     Effective management of yellow jackets can be achieved by:
(1) rigorous sanitation, and (2) use of physical exclusion from a
food source.  The principle behind these practices is the denial
of attractive food to the foraging worker wasps.  If begun early
in the summer and carried out through mid-autumn, proper
sanitation will help to reduce the buildup of foraging yellow
jackets in an area.  Trash containers should be kept closed (lid)
whenever possible; open containers should be emptied regularly
(every few hours when a large number of foragers are present).
Use an aerosol insecticide to remove yellow jackets present
around trash cans in order to empty them.  Place a one-half or
one-quarter section of no-pest strips to the inside of the lid of
a closed trash container to kill the yellow jackets that may
become trapped inside.

     The following measures are of no value in reducing the
number of yellow jacket foragers in an area:  (1) general
spraying of an infested area, and (2) electrocuting devices
employing UV light.
-End-
-Title-
CARPENTER ANTS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
CARPENTER ANTS

     Ants of the genus Camponotus are known as carpenter ants
because they house their colonies in galleries they excavate in
wood.  These ants are large (from 1/4 inch for a worker up to 3/4
inch for a queen) and are black, or sometimes red and black.
Under natural conditions, carpenter ants nest in live and dead
trees and in rotting logs and stumps.  However, they will also
construct their nests in houses, telephone poles, and other man-
made wooden structures.

     Nests are begun in deteriorating wood which has been exposed
to moisture.  Often, the colony will extend its nest to adjacent,
sound wood.  Nests are commonly found in porch pillars and roofs,
window sills, and wood in contact with soil.  Carpenter ants do
not eat the wood they remove during their nest-building
activities, but deposit it outside entrances to the colony in
small piles.  The wood is used solely as a nesting site.  The
galleries of carpenter ants are kept smooth and clean, and are
not lined with moist soil as termite galleries are.

     Carpenter ants rarely cause structural damage to buildings.
Although most carpenter ant damage is cosmetic, the ants are
nevertheless considered serious pests by homeowners.  The natural
food of the ants consists of honeydew from aphids, other insects,
and plant juices, but they will readily forage for water and food
scraps within the home.

     The colonies of carpenter ants are often long lived.  Each
colony is founded by a single fertilized queen.  She establishes
a nesting site in a cavity in wood.  She then rears her first
brood of workers, feeding them salivary secretions.  She does not
leave the nest nor feed herself throughout this period.  The
workers which are reared first assume the task of gathering food
with which to feed the younger larvae.  As the food supply
becomes more constant, the colony population grows very rapidly.

     A colony does not reach maturity and become capable of
producing young queens and males until it contains 2000 or more
workers.  It may take a colony from three to six or more years to
reach this stage.  Each year thereafter, the colony will continue
to produce winged queens and males, which leave their nest and
conduct mating flights from May through July.

     Control of carpenter ant infestations requires that the nest
be found.  Once this is done, the infested wood can be removed or
treated chemically, and causes of moisture damage to the wood can
be corrected.

     Carpenter ants are active indoors during many months of the
year, usually during the spring and summer.  When ants are active
in the house during late winter/early spring (February/March),
the infestation (nest) is probably within the household.  When
carpenter ants are first seen in the spring and summer
(May/June), then the nest is likely outdoors and the ants are
simply coming in for food.   The best procedure is to inspect all
possible locations--and to select these locations on the basis of
potential water exposure.  Once the nest is located, control can
be achieved by the use of an aerosol insecticide.
-End-
-Title-
CONFUSED FLOUR BEETLE AND RED FLOUR BEETLE
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
CONFUSED FLOUR BEETLE AND RED FLOUR BEETLE

     The confused flour beetle (Tribolium confusum) and the red
flour beetle (Tribolium castaneum) are similar in appearance and
habits.  Adult confused flour beetles have the antennae gradually
enlarged toward the tip; the antennae of the red flour beetle
have the last three segments abruptly enlarged.  T. confusum
cannot fly, but T. castaneum may fly.  The elongate, reddish-
brown beetles are about 3-4 mm long, with a distinct joint
between the thorax and abdomen.  The adult female may live for as
long as two years, depositing 300 to 400 eggs.  The mature larva
is brownish-white, has six legs, and is up to 13 mm long.  The
life cycle requires one to four months when temperatures are
favorable.  These beetles are very important pests infesting many
flour mills, warehouses, and grocery stores.  They also feed upon
grain, beans, dried fruits, nuts, chocolate, and other foods in
the home.

     Control of these pests begins with the location of the
infested food.  A thorough clean up, using a vacuum cleaner to
get into the cracks and crevices, will control this pest.

-End-
-Title-
SILVERFISH
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
SILVERFISH

     Silverfish normally live outdoors under rocks, bark and leaf
mold, in the nests of birds and mammals, and in ant and termite
nests.  However, many occur in homes and are considered a pest,
or at least a nuisance, by homeowners.

     Silverfish are not often seen by homeowners because they are
nocturnal and can run very swiftly.  Occasionally, they are found
in bathtubs.  They crawl in seeking food or moisture and can't
climb out.  These insects prefer vegetable matter with a high
carbohydrate and protein content.  However, indoors they will
feed on almost anything.  A partial list includes dried beef,
flour, starch, paper, gum, glue, cotton, linen, rayon, silk,
sugar, molds and breakfast cereals.  They can go for up to one
year without food, so sanitation alone will not eliminate an
infestation, although it may prevent new ones from starting.

     Adults lay eggs in small groups containing a few to 50 eggs.
The eggs are very small and deposited in cracks and crevices.  A
female normally lays less than 100 eggs during her lifespan of
two to eight years.  Under ideal conditions, the eggs hatch in
two weeks, but may take up to two months to hatch.

     The young nymphs are very much like the adults except for
size.  Several years are required before they are sexually
mature, and they must mate after each molt if viable eggs are to
be produced.  Populations do not build up rapidly because of
their slow development rate and the small number of eggs laid.  A
large infestation usually means the house has been infested for
some time.

     Control.  Residual insecticides (use an aerosol) will help
to control these pests.  Removing old papers, boxes, books, and
clothes from the attic to basement will help remove food and
hiding places.  Moth crystals placed in boxes in the attic will
also help.

-End-
-Title-
DEER TICKS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
DEER TICKS

     Deer ticks are small, dark-colored ticks sometimes called
seed ticks.  These ticks congregate along paths, trails, and
roadways and may inflict a painful bite.  Deer ticks feed mostly
on deer, cattle, and other large animals, but they will feed on
man when they get a chance.  Deer ticks can carry Lyme disease.
Deer ticks are in the genus Ixodes, and there are several species
of Ixodes that carry the Lyme disease bacteria in their systems.

     Lyme disease has become an important tick-borne disease in
Virginia and other eastern states.  It is an affliction of the
summer months.  This tick-transmitted bacterial disease is most
likely to be contracted during the months of June through
September, when young people and adults are outdoors.  It is
spreading rapidly and is now the most frequently diagnosed tick-
transmitted illness in the United States.  The disease was first
reported in Connecticut in 1975, and is named after the town of
Lyme in which the disease was first observed.

     The symptoms of Lyme disease vary, ranging from acute
headache to neurological impairment, and symptoms resembling
rheumatoid arthritis.  The onset of the symptoms usually follow a
skin rash one to several weeks earlier.  Fortunately Lyme disease
can be treated successfully with antibiotics administered orally.
Lyme disease is also becoming a veterinary problem.  Dogs and
horses in areas where the disease is common have developed joint
problems that veterinarians believe to be caused by Lyme
bacteria.

-End-
-Title-
PARASITIC WASPS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
PARASITIC WASPS

     Homeowners usually encounter parasitic wasps in houses in
the fall and winter, partly because these wasps emerge from
infested insects associated with firewood.

     The adults of the parasitic wasps vary considerably in size,
form, and coloration, but the majority resemble slender wasps.
They do not sting.  They differ from the wasps that sting in that
they have very long antennae.  The adults attack and lay eggs in
a great variety of hosts; the larvae are internal parasites of
the immature stages of the host.  The parasite larva usually
completes development in the host, and emerges from the host when
an adult.  The parasite kills the host (that's the beneficial
part!).

     There are a great variety of hosts for these wasps:
caterpillars, moths, leafminers, wood-boring beetle larvae,
flies, aphids, gypsy moth, weevils, and spiders.  These parasites
help to reduce the number of pest insects, thus taking an edge
off the amount of damage from pests.  Research by biological
control programs has helped to increase the number of parasitic
wasps in an area, again to help reduce the number of pests.  No
control is recommended for these wasps.
-End-
-Title-
POWDERPOST BEETLES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
POWDERPOST BEETLES

     There are species of beetles that infest softwoods (pine,
spruce, fir) and hardwoods (oak, maple), and make small (one-
eighth inch), round holes in the wood.  These beetles are
referred to as powderpost beetles.  In modern log houses,
powderpost beetles are usually encountered in the logs after the
first year or two.  The first evidence is small holes with fine
sawdust streaming from them, usually in the spring of the year.
They have a one to two year life cycle, and they can reinfest the
logs.  Certainly there will be no structural damage from these
beetles unless they continue to feed in the logs for many years.

-End-
-Title-
PAVEMENT ANTS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
PAVEMENT ANTS

     Pavement ants are very common in the eastern United States.
These small, brown to black ants usually nest under stones,
concrete slabs, at the edge of pavements, and in houses in
crevices in woodwork and masonry.  Pavement ants feed on a
variety of materials, including live and dead insects, honeydew
from aphids, meats, grease, etc.  They often enter houses looking
for food.  They may become numerous in a short period of time in
a kitchen or outside on a patio.  The nests are often difficult
to locate, so control is usually aimed at individual ants or
groups of ants.
-End-
-Title-
MOSQUITOES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
MOSQUITOES

     Adult female (only!) mosquitoes seek a blood meal so they
can produce a new patch of eggs.  Mosquitoes can travel a mile or
more from their breeding spot to find a meal.  However, most
remain close to the lake, pond, or clogged gutter they lived in
as larvae.  Excess rain in the spring will provide plenty of
breeding places for mosquitoes.  Homeowners should carefully
inspect their house (gutters) and yard (bird bath, old tires) for
standing water - then dump it!  Non-chemical control in the
spring is easier and more effective than chemical control in the
summer.

-End-
-Title-
MILLIPEDES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
MILLIPEDES

     Millipedes have caused some problems around the state in the
summer and fall.  There were several locations in which the
numbers of millipedes were so excessive that they swarmed over
mulched flower beds and invaded basements and other ground level
rooms in houses.  Millipedes develop best in damp and dark
locations with abundant organic matter (food).  Areas around
houses that provide these conditions include piles of grass
clippings, a wooded lot close to the house, excessive mulch
around the house, and similar locations.  They lay eggs in the
spring and populations build up during the summer.  Under good
conditions -- adequate food and habitat -- populations can become
very large.  Then changes in the habitat -- excessive moisture,
lack of food, too little moisture -- cause the population to
disperse.  At times there can be thousands of millipedes moving
across lawn areas and into houses.

     Controlling such large numbers of millipedes can be very
difficult.  It seems that most insecticides available to
homeowners are not very effective in killing millipedes.
Diazinon (granular formulation) is probably the most effective.
Liquid formulations may have to be re-applied on a three to seven
day basis.  Nonchemical control measures, such as looking for the
source of the problem, may be useful--but not always possible or
effective.  Populations of millipedes may build to large numbers
in one year, the habitat become overcrowded, and thousands of
them migrate to other areas.

-End-
-Title-
MEALWORMS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
MEALWORMS

     The yellow mealworm (Tenebrio molitor) and the dark mealworm
(Tenebrio obscurus) are very similar in appearance.  The adults
are large beetles, 12-15 mm in length.  The adult of T. molitor
is dark shiny brown to black; T. obscurus is a dull black.  The
larvae resemble wireworms and are familiar to many people as
dried food for aquarium animals.  Although these insects are
cosmopolitan in distribution, they are rarely of major
importance.

     Control.  Controlling mealworms requires carefully
inspecting all cereal foods, discarding the heavily infested
material, repackaging material in new containers, and vacuuming
kitchen cabinets.

-End-
-Title-
SAW-TOOTHED GRAIN BEETLE
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
SAW-TOOTHED GRAIN BEETLE

     The saw-toothed grain beetle (Oryzaephilus sarinamensis) is
an important pest known throughout most of the world.  A closely
related species, Oryzaephilus mercator, is also important and is
often mistaken for the saw-toothed grain beetle.  The adult is a
small, active, brown beetle, 2-3 mm long, with a flattened body
and six saw-toothed projections on each side of the thorax.  The
larva is yellowish-white, about 2 to 3 mm long, with a brown
head.  The abdomen tapers toward the tip.  The females live from
6 to 10 months and deposit 45 to 285 eggs in foodstuffs.  Several
generations may occur each year, as the life cycle requires only
3 to 4 weeks during the summer.  The saw-toothed grain beetle is
an important pest in grocery stores, food warehouses, and grain
storage.  It readily penetrates packaged cereals, dried fruits,
and candies.  It also attacks flour, meal, sugar, drugs, dried
meat, and tobacco.

     Control.  Controlling this pantry pest requires careful
inspection of all cereal foods, discarding the heavily infested
material, repackaging material in new containers, and vacuuming
kitchen cabinets.  Vacuuming the cabinets will be much more
beneficial than washing them.  Vacuuming will remove flour dust
and scraps in the cracks and crevices of the cabinet.  Washing
may make a paste of the flour.
-End-
-Title-
HOUSE FLIES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
HOUSE FLIES

     August is the "house fly month" for household insect pests.
The hot days of July and August will result in a great number of
flies by the end of August and September.  At the height of the
summer season, a generation of flies (egg to adult) may be
produced in 12 to 14 days.  In Virginia there might be time for
10 or 12 generations during a season.  It has been estimated that
the progeny of a single female fly at the end of the ninth
generation may reach the number of 1,953,000,000 female flies, to
say nothing of all the males produced.  Fortunately, all the
eggs, larvae, pupae, and adults don't live!

     Control of house flies is important.  They can and do carry
and spread disease.  Control should be aimed in two directions--
the breeding site and in the house.  House flies breed in garbage
(primarily).  Garbage cans and large trash containers can be a
breeding place for house flies.  Attaching no-pest strips to the
underside of the lids or covers will help kill adults and larvae.
Plain boiling water is an excellent (and inexpensive) way to kill
house fly maggots in garbage cans.  Fly paper, fly swatters, and
aerosols are the best methods for adult control.  No-pest strips
are designed to be used in a closed area to allow for the
chemical given off by the plastic strip to accumulate.  They are
not very effective in breezy rooms, carports, patios, etc.

-End-
-Title-
SPIDERS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
SPIDERS

     Spiders are common household pests in the fall.  After
spending the summer catching flies and moths, adult spiders begin
looking for a safe (warm!) place to spend the winter.  Homeowners
frequently encounter these eight-legged critters around windows,
doors, house plants, and in clutter in basements and garages.

     Most homeowners have misconceptions about spiders -- they
are pictured to be poisonous (even deadly), and likely to attack
at any time.  Wrong.  The only dangerous spiders we have in
Virginia are the brown recluse spider and the black widow spider.
The brown recluse is not common.  The black widow is common, but
reports of it biting people are infrequent.  For the most part,
spiders are beneficial, eating insects and other spiders.

     The following spiders are commonly found around houses:

     Golden garden spiders have a rather flat head and a thorax
region covered with whitish hair.  They are black with yellow
markings.

     Large orb weavers are found about houses in the fall.  Their
legs are usually shorter and their body not as big as the golden
garden spider.

     Wolf spiders are usually large, hairy spiders that are not
associated with webs.  They look much worse than they are.

     Jumping spiders do just that -- jump!  They are small,
usually black with red or white markings, and often found in
windows.  They rarely bite.

     House spiders have "dirty" white and gray markings on their
abdomen.  They build complicated webs in corners, under tables,
chairs, etc.

     Sheet web spiders have a pair of dark bands across their
yellowish head-thorax and abdomen region.  They are common on
shrubs and weeds around the house.

     Control.  Spider control is best done on a one-to-one, as
needed basis.  A general spray for spiders is not recommended,
unless the infestation seems severe.  Tolerate what you can,
spray with an aerosol what you can't.

-End-
-Title-
HORNETS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
HORNETS

     The bald-faced hornet is a large, black and white insect
which is widely distributed in Virginia.  The oval-shaped nests
are often quite large and are usually found attached to limbs of
trees.  The nests are constructed of the same paper-like material
as that of other wasps (yellow jackets).  They differ a great
deal from other wasp nests in being enclosed in a thick "paper"
envelope.  There is a single opening at the lower end of the
nest; this is always guarded by a few hornets.  Nests are
abandoned at the end of the season.  The workers are killed by
frosts in the fall.  The fertilized females (future queens)
hibernate in barns, attics, and other sheltered places, emerge
and begin new nests in the spring.  Hornets are beneficial; they
prey upon flies and caterpillars.  Unfortunately they can be a
potential health hazard to people allergic to their stings.

     Control.  Hornet nests in trees, lawns, or buildings away
from the normal activity of people should not be considered
dangerous -- and should not be removed.  Removing a nest is not
easy and always dangerous.  Here are some suggestions:  work at
night (when the temperature is low and it is fully dark); use a
red light to see (hornets cannot see red light very well); use
material known as (or similar to) "wasp freeze"; and, do not use
gasoline.
-End-
-Title-
GIANT EUROPEAN HORNET
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
GIANT EUROPEAN HORNET

     The giant European hornet is a common pest in the summer.
It is a large, robust, brown and yellow wasp, about  one and
three-fourths inches long.  This insect was introduced into the
United States from Europe, and occurs primarily in the eastern
seaboard states including Virginia.  The nests of the giant
hornet may be in hollow tree trunks, in buildings, in other
sheltered places, and occasionally in the ground.

     Giant European hornets are powerful, agile wasps that prey
on active insects.  Captured prey includes butterflies, moths,
caterpillars, flies, bees, and other wasps.  Giant hornets rarely
visit flowers for nectar.  They are often encountered at outdoor
lights at night -- preying on the other insects attracted to the
light.  Although they are very large and active, giant hornets
are not prone to attacking and stinging man.

     The size of the colony and the number of individuals
increases during the summer.  Nests decline in fall, and males
and new queens are produced.  The nests of these wasps are used
for only one season.

     Control.  The control of any pest begins with locating the
source.  In the case of wasps, it is the nest.  Giant hornet
nests are difficult to locate; they may not be close to the area
where the wasps are occurring.

     Aerosol sprays can be used to kill individual wasps.  If the
nest is located, insecticides can be used (at night and with
protective clothing).

-End-
-Title-
STINGING CATERPILLARS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
STINGING CATERPILLARS

     The majority of ferocious looking caterpillars are
completely harmless.  There are, however, six rather common
species in Virginia with poisonous hairs or spines.  These so
called urticating hairs are hollow and connected to underlying
poison glands.  Contact with them causes a burning sensation and
inflammation that can be as painful as a bee sting.  The
irritation can last for a day or two and may be accompanied by
nausea during the first few hours.  Specific symptoms vary
depending on the species of caterpillar and the susceptibility of
the victim, but usually the site of contact reddens and swells
much like a bee sting.

     A person "stung" by a poisonous caterpillar should
immediately wash the affected area to remove any insect hairs and
poison that remain.  An ice pack will help reduce swelling, and
creams and lotions containing steroids will lessen the discomfort
and promote healing.  Persons known to be sensitive to insect
stings should consult a physician.

     Most stinging caterpillars are general feeders and are
commonly encountered on shade trees and ornamental shrubs.  The
six species common in Virginia are the saddle-back caterpillar,
puss caterpillar, hagmoth, hackberry leaf slug, io moth, and buck
moth.  They are found in late summer.

     The saddle-back caterpillar is about an inch long and
possesses poisonous spines on four large projections (tubercles)
and many smaller ones that stick out from the sides of its body.
The "saddle" consists of an oval purplish-brown spot in the
middle of a green patch on the back.  Saddle-back caterpillars
feed on the leaves of basswood, chestnut, cherry, plum, oak, and
other trees and shrubs.

     The puss caterpillar is also about an inch long and
completely covered with long, silken, brownish hairs.  Hidden
among the hairs are short, poisonous spines.  Puss caterpillars
are commonly found on hackberry, elm, plum, sycamore, oak and
rose.

     Hagmoth larvae are extremely bizarre in appearance.  They
are covered with short, dark brown hairs and have nine pairs of
fleshy appendages, some of which are long and twisted.  Rose,
sassafras, alder, and spirea are among their favorite hosts.

     The hackberry leaf slug grows to about an inch long and has
six small tufts of hair on each segment.  Its body is off-white
with a large purple patch on the back.  Hackberry leaves are its
preferred food.

     A mature io moth caterpillar may be up to two and one-half
inches long.  They are a beautiful pale green color with white
and red stripes on the sides.  Short spines radiate from numerous
tubercles on the back.  These larvae feed on alder, ash, birch,
cherry, elm, locust, oak, sassafras, and other deciduous trees
and herbaceous plants.  They are not uncommon in corn fields.

     The buck moth caterpillar is unusual in this group since it
is found in the early summer, mainly in June.  It is often
confused with spiny elm caterpillars and gypsy moth caterpillars
which are also active at that time.  Buck moth caterpillars grow
up to two inches long.  The head, prolegs, and anal plate are
reddish, but the rest of the body is black with small white
spots.  Long branched spines and tufts of shorter spines cover
the body.  Buck moth caterpillars are found most commonly on oak.
But willow, hazelnut, cherry, and rose are also suitable host
plants.

     In addition to the above mentioned stinging caterpillars,
there is one non-stinging caterpillar of note.  The Hickory
Horned Devil is a frightful looking large caterpillar (up to 5.5
inches) that has many orange and green spines and horns.  The
spines are not poisonous and are not particularly sharp--it only
looks mean.  The adult of this caterpillar is the orange and
brown Royal Walnut Moth.

     Stinging caterpillars rarely occur in sufficient numbers to
be considered plant pests, but people who work with ornamental
plants should learn to recognize them and avoid touching them.

-End-
-Title-
TICKS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
TICKS

     Ticks are one of the most important pests in Virginia.
There are several species of "wood ticks" in the state, and two
of them transmit Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever (RMSF) to man.
People working and playing outdoors in the spring can encounter
ticks, get bitten, and risk contracting RMSF.  While only one to
two percent of the tick population actively carries RMSF, and
those in danger are the very young and the very old, it is best
that everyone knows how to identify the tick species likely to
transmit this disease.  Along with identification, it is
important that people know the best way to remove ticks that are
imbedded in the skin.

     Identification.  Identifying the species of ticks that can
spread RMSF is not difficult.  The best character to remember is
that any tick with white markings on its body has the "potential"
of spreading RMSF.

     The American dog tick has an uneven pattern of white
markings on its back and sides.  The lone star tick usually has
one large white spot in the middle of its back.  The brown dog
tick is solid brown in color and does not transmit RMSF.

     Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever.  In spite of the name, this
disease is very common in the eastern and southeastern United
States.  Virginia and the bordering states usually have a large
number of cases of this disease reported each year--there are few
deaths.  Over 90 percent of those affected become ill between
April 1 and September 1.  Ticks (and RMSF) are most active in the
spring and fall of the year.  The nymph and adult ticks seek a
small rodent, dog, or man as a host to take a blood meal at this
time.  During feeding, the tick can transmit diseases to the
host.  However, feeding usually has to last for 20-40 minutes
before the disease agent is transferred.  Prompt removal of ticks
can help to eliminate the potential of infection.

     Removal.  Removing ticks that have inserted their mouthparts
into the skin is not difficult, and should be done with as little
worry and excitement as possible.  While hot matches, kerosene,
petroleum jelly, and "home cure" are popular, they do not work as
well as simply grasping the tick firmly with the thumb and
forefinger and pulling it gently, but firmly, out!  A tissue may
be placed over the tick during this process.

-End-
-Title-
BED BUGS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
BED BUGS

     Bed bugs are sometimes called "red coats", "chinches", or
"mahogany flats".  The adult bed bug is a brown, wingless insect
that is flattened from top to bottom.  They feed on blood --
principally the blood of man.  They feed by piercing the skin
with a long beak and sucking blood into their stomachs.  The
stages in the life cycle of a bed bug are:  egg, nymph, adult.

     Bed bugs feed mostly at night, by biting people who are
asleep.  But if they are very hungry and if the light is dim,
they will feed during the day.  The females lay about 200 eggs,
usually at the rate of three or four a day.  The eggs are laid in
cracks and crevices in the floor or bed -- areas that the bugs
hide in during the day.  Newly hatched bugs begin feeding
immediately.  They shed their skin five times before becoming
adults.  There may be three or more generations per year under
favorable conditions.

     At the beginning of an infestation, bed bugs are likely to
be found only in the tufts, seams, and folds of mattresses and
bed covers.  In areas of heavy infestations, bed bugs can be
found in crevices in the bedsteads.

     Control.  In private homes, find all the areas that bed bugs
hide in during the day time.  These must be treated with
chemicals.  In hotels, apartments, and other multiple-type
dwelling places, bed bugs may spread from one unit to another.
All units should be inspected.

-End-
-Title-
BLOW FLY LARVAE AND PUPAE
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
BLOW FLY LARVAE AND PUPAE

     Homeowners frequently report finding fly maggots and/or
pupae on the floor or carpeting around an unused fireplace.
Large numbers of maggots may be encountered crawling across the
floor or numerous small, oval-shaped pupae may be found under a
rug close to a fireplace.  The insects are usually blow flies,
and the reason is usually a dead animal in the fireplace or flue.
Abandoned stoves and fireplaces may be used by birds for nesting,
or a mouse, squirrel, or other animal may become trapped in the
flue stack.  Once the animal dies and the body begins to decay,
blow flies are attracted for egg laying.  The maggots complete
development in the decaying flesh, then seek a dry place to
pupate.  Fly maggots have the habit of wandering a distance
before selecting a place to pupate.  They may wander out into the
living area of a house and cause concern to homeowners.  There is
really no need for alarm or extensive control of these insects.
The pupae and larvae can be picked up and discarded.  The real
concern should be for the cause of the problem.  Get the flue
checked, especially if there are ever plans for another fire.  A
blocked fireplace flue can cause more damage than a few fly
maggots or pupae on the floor.
-End-
-Title-
SELECTING A PROFESSIONAL PEST CONTROL OPERATOR
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
SELECTING A PROFESSIONAL PEST CONTROL OPERATOR

     Small local companies can be just as reliable and capable as
large, regional or national companies.

     There are no secret chemicals or formulas for the control of
termites or other wood-infesting insects.  There are a few
chemicals available to all the professionals.  The careful
application of those chemicals is the most important aspect of
insect control.

     Membership in the state or national association demonstrates
some degree of professionalism and probably participation in
regular training sessions.

     Ask that the company representative explain all the
procedures to be used.  Ask about odor or potential problems with
wells located close to the house or heating ducts buried in the
slab or in walls.

     Consider getting the opinion of two or three professionals
before making the final decision on treatment.

-End-
-Title-
VELVET ANTS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
VELVET ANTS

     Velvet ants are medium-sized, red and black insects that
resemble ants, but are more closely related to wasps.  Their
bodies are densely clothed with red and black hairs that give the
insect a velvety appearance.  The wingless females (males are
winged and rarely seen) can inflict a nasty sting, and can make a
squeaking noise when captured.

     These insects are parasitic on wasps and bees.  The female
velvet ant invades a nest of wasps or bumblebees and lays eggs in
the cells of the host.  The velvet ant larva kills and eats the
host bee pupa.

     If control is desired, individual velvet ants can be killed
with an aerosol spray.

-End-
-Title-
HONEYBEES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
HONEYBEES

     The honeybee is covered with short, dense hair, usually
golden-brown and black, and its abdomen is striped.  There are
three castes of honeybees in the colony:  workers (2/5 to 3/5
inch long), drones (3/4 to 5/8 inch long), and the queen (3/5 to
3/4 inch long).  Most people see only the workers because these
are the bees that regularly fly in and out of the nest.

     The queen is responsible for reproduction.  The drones are
fertile male bees that mate with new queens.  The workers are
sterile females responsible for feeding the queen, maintaining
the hive, gathering the pollen and nectar, and protecting the
hive.  Honeybee workers have a barbed stinger that becomes
detached along with a venom sac after the sting.

     When stung by a bee, immediately remove the stinger and
venom sac by gently scraping or flicking the stinger with a
fingernail or knife.  Do not use tweezers or try to squeeze out
the stinger--this pushes more venom into the wound.  Next, wash
the sting site with soap and water.  Apply ice to minimize pain
and swelling.  For normal sting reactions, a solution of 1/2
teaspoon meat tenderizer dissolved in 1 teaspoon water (or
commercially available sting solution) can be applied to the skin
to relieve discomfort.  If you experience anything more than a
localized, normal reaction, seek medical attention immediately.
Sting victims should be kept calm, quiet and inactive.  In some
cases, an allergy specialist may advise a series of injections to
lessen sensitivity for persons with case histories of severe
allergic reactions to insect stings.

     Prevention.  Wear proper clothing and use caution when
worker honeybees are foraging around houses on flowering trees
and plants.  When flowers finish blooming, the danger will
decrease.

     It is best to allow swarms of honeybees to leave on their
own.  A swarm of bees will remain clustered until scout bees have
located a suitable site for permanent nesting.  In two days or
less, the swarm will usually break the cluster and fly away.  If
it is necessary to remove a swarm, be sure to contact a local
beekeeper, who usually will be happy to get the bees.

     Removal from Buildings.  When honeybees establish a nest in
your house or other undesirable places, you can either hire
professional help (certified pest control operator or beekeeper)
or do the job yourself.  Remember that after the honeybees are
killed, they must be removed with their comb nest along with
honey.  Untended honey soon begins to decompose and/or seep out
of the comb, causing odor problems, staining walls or ceilings,
and encouraging secondary pest infestations by ants, cockroaches,
wax moths, flies and dermestid beetles.
-End-
-Title-
CLICK BEETLES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
CLICK BEETLES

     In the mid to late summer, people often encounter large
numbers of click beetles coming to lights and getting into
houses.

     These flattened, elongate, brown beetles are about 1/4 to
3/4 inch long.  On their underside, they have a click mechanism
that aids them in defense and righting themselves when they are
turned upside down.  They release this mechanism with an audible
"click" which causes the head to snap back with such force that
they can be propelled into the air as much as several inches.

     The larval form of the click beetle is the wireworm which
can be a pest in gardens and turf if in large numbers.  The
wireworms feed on the roots of plants.  Click beetles feed on
nectar from flowers and are not pests.  The best way to reduce
the number of click beetles in the house is with a reduction in
the number of outside lights on at night and tightening and
patching of screens.  If desired, individual beetles can be
controlled with an aerosol spray.

-End-
-Title-
BROWN-BANDED COCKROACHES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
BROWN-BANDED COCKROACHES

     The brown-banded cockroach, Supella longipalpa (Fabr.), is
more likely to be found in houses, hotels or apartments rather
than commercial stores or restaurants.  These insects feed on
starchy materials and even non-food materials such as nylon
stockings.  They prefer to hide in warm, elevated areas near the
ceiling, behind wall decorations and loose wallpaper, in closets,
beneath or inside upholstered furniture, and in electrical
appliances such as TV sets, stereos, radios, and toasters.  They
develop and live throughout the building, making control
difficult.  Roaches can foul food, damage wallpaper and books,
eat glue from furniture and produce an unpleasant odor.  Some
homeowners are allergic to roaches.  The pests can contaminate
food with certain bacterial diseases that result in food
poisoning, dysentery or diarrhea.

     Most cockroaches have a flattened, oval shape; spiny legs;
and long, filamentous antennae.  Immature stages are smaller,
have undeveloped wings and resemble adults.  Adult brown-banded
cockroaches are light brown to glossy dark brown, are about 5/8
inch long, and have wings.  Males are capable of flight.  Nymphs
and females are broad when viewed from above, while the male is
slender.  The male's wings cover the abdomen, whereas the
female's wings are short, exposing the abdomen.  These roaches
have two light, transverse bands across the base of the wings and
abdomen.  These bands may appear irregular or broken but are
usually quite apparent on the nymphs and females.  Egg capsules
are about 1/4 inch long and reddish-brown.

     Brown-banded cockroach females deposit egg cases in clusters
on furniture, draperies, wall decorations, shelving and ceilings.
The egg capsule contains 14 to 16 eggs; a female produces 10 to
20 cases in her lifetime.  Eggs hatch in 50 to 75 days, and
nymphs develop in 90 to 270 days, with adults living 150 to 200
days.  These roaches are active at night, and nymphs and adults
jump rapidly when disturbed.  These pests do not require as much
moisture as German cockroaches and tend to avoid light.  No room
or furniture is immune to infestations, and one may find tiny,
dark droppings and cast skins on cabinets and shelves.  The
roaches are commonly transported in furniture, luggage, and other
items in houses and soon develop into annoying infestations under
warm, humid conditions.  Control is difficult--treatments must be
extensive or directed at population sources determined by bait
trapping.  Traps can determine infestation severity and monitor
chemical controls, especially with brown-banded and German
cockroaches.

     Brown-banded cockroaches can be detected by examining the
premises after dark with a flashlight.  During the day, probing
hiding places with a wire will expose roaches.  Household sprays
of 0.1 percent pyrethrins applied to hiding places will flush out
roaches, sometimes killing them if they contact the spray.

     Because brown-banded roaches commonly hitchhike into the
house, it is important to inspect sacks, cartons and boxes, etc.,
brought into the home and destroy any roaches.  Sanitation is
critical in roach control.  Clean up spilled foods and liquids,
avoid leaving scraps of food on unwashed dishes and counter tops,
keep food in tightly sealed containers, rinse cans and bottles
before putting them in the trash and transfer garbage outdoors
into roach-proof receptacles.  Seal openings with putty or
plastic wood.

     Apply chemicals at roach hiding places.  Enter a dark room
quietly, turn on the light and watch where the roaches run.  Spot
treat these hiding places and known pathways, especially under
and behind loose baseboards or molding strips and around pipes or
conduits along the walls.  Do not treat entire floors, walls or
ceilings.  Roaches may hide around the kitchen sink or drain
board, in cracks underneath cupboards and cabinets, inside the
motor compartment of refrigerators, behind window and door
frames, in radio and TV cabinets, and around closet and bookcase
shelves.  Surfaces where food is prepared should not be treated.
Buildings with multiple dwellings usually require the treatment
of each unit.

     There are numerous cockroach insecticide formulations.  Some
are labeled "general use" for homeowner application, and others
are labeled "restricted use" for professional pest control or
licensed, certified applicators only.  Before using any
insecticide, read the label and follow directions.
-End-
-Title-
GERMAN COCKROACHES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
GERMAN COCKROACHES

     German cockroaches, Blatella germanica (L.), are the most
common roaches found in homes and restaurants.  They eat food of
all kinds and may hitchhike into the house on egg cartons, soft
drink cartons, sacks of potatoes or onions, used furniture, beer
cases, etc.  These roaches will move from building to building
during the warm summer months.  They can develop into large
populations and live throughout the house, especially in the
kitchen and bathroom.  Roaches can foul food, damage wallpaper
and books, eat glue from furniture and produce an unpleasant
odor.  Some homeowners are allergic to roaches.  The pests can
contaminate food with certain bacterial diseases that result in
food poisoning, dysentery, or diarrhea.

     Most cockroaches have a flattened, oval shape; spiny legs;
and, long, filamentous antennae.  Immature stages are smaller,
have undeveloped wings and resemble the adults.  Adult German
cockroaches are light brown except for the shield behind the head
marked with two dark stripes, which run lengthwise on the body.
Adults are about 5/8 inch long and have wings (but rarely fly).
Young roaches are wingless and nearly black with a single light
stripe running down the middle of the back.  Egg capsules are
light tan and about 1/3 inch long.

     German cockroach females, unlike most other roaches, carry
the egg capsule protruding from their abdomen until the eggs are
ready to hatch.  The case is then dropped in a secluded location,
with the nymphs emerging one to two days later.  A female may
produce four to eight cases during her lifetime, each containing
30 to 40 eggs.  Eggs hatch in 28 to 30 days, and nymphs develop
in 40 to 125 days.  Female roaches live about 200 days and males
not as long.  The roach produces more eggs and has more
generations per year (three to four) than other roaches, and only
a few individuals are needed to develop into troublesome
infestations.  During the day, these roaches may be found hiding
clustered behind baseboard molding; in cracks around cabinets,
closets or pantries; and, in and under stoves, refrigerators and
dishwashers.  When seen during the day in clusters, the
population is large.  Without food or water, adults may die in
two weeks, but they can live a month with water.

     German cockroaches can be detected by examining the premises
after dark with a flashlight.  During the day, probing hiding
places with a wire or thin wood strip will expose roaches.
Household sprays of 0.1 percent pyrethrins applied to hiding
places will flush out roaches, sometimes killing them if they
contact the spray.

     Prevention.  German cockroaches can move from one building
to the next during the summer, entering through cracks in
foundations, around loose-fitting doors or windows, and along
water and gas pipes.  Seal openings with putty or plastic wood.
Inspect sacks, cartons and boxes, etc., brought into the house,
and destroy any roaches.  Sanitation is critical in roach
control.  Clean up spilled foods and liquids, avoid leaving
scraps of food on unwashed dishes and counter tops, keep food in
tightly sealed containers, rinse cans and bottles before putting
them in trash and transfer garbage outdoors into roach-proof
receptacles.

     Insecticides.  Apply chemicals at roach hiding places.
Enter a dark room quietly, turn on the light and watch where the
roaches run.  Spot treat these hiding places and known pathways,
especially under and behind loose baseboards or molding strips
and around pipes or conduits along the walls and through it.  Do
not treat entire floors, walls or ceilings.  Roaches may hide
around the kitchen sink or drain board, in cracks underneath
cupboards and cabinets, inside the motor compartment of
refrigerators, behind window and door frames, in radio and TV
cabinets, and around closet and bookcase shelves.  Surfaces where
food is prepared should not be treated.  Roaches in buildings
with multiple dwellings usually require the treatment of other
units as well.
-End-
-Title-
BUMBLEBEES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
BUMBLEBEES

     Bumblebees are common and inconspicuous insects, often
encountered foraging at roadside flowers.  Yet most people have
never seen the fascinating bustle of activity that is the nest of
the bumblebee.  Inside the nest, a colony of these social insects
may number 200 or more, members engage in most of the activities
of a human society -- gathering food, caring for offspring,
constructing a home, defending it, and regulating the environment
inside it.

     Bumblebees are beneficial insects, performing unexcelled
pollinating services for such crops as red clover and
blueberries.  Their colonies are a spectacular example of social
organization, with each member working tirelessly to protect and
build the colony.  Yet, as many homeowners have discovered, they
can also be a nuisance because of the tendency of some species to
choose nesting places around people's houses.  Wooden storage
sheds and small barns, which may also house small rodents, are a
favorite nesting place of bumblebees.  Many species, normally
docile and unaggressive while foraging on flowers, turn vicious
when their nests are disturbed, chasing intruders for many yards
away from the nest.  Because their stings are so effective,
bumblebees have to worry about very few natural enemies, skunks
being one of the few animals that find bumblebees tasty, sting
and all.

     Control is usually not recommended.  But if desired, it
would be best to find and destroy the nest.  Individual
bumblebees that get into the house can be controlled with an
aerosol.
-End-
-Title-
LONGHORNED BEETLES/ROUNDHEADED BORERS
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
LONGHORNED BEETLES/ROUNDHEADED BORERS

     Most of the hundreds of species of roundheaded borers are
found in weakened, dying, and dead trees.  In addition, they feed
on felled trees, stumps, and cut firewood.  Roundheaded borers
feed under the bark and in the sapwood of trees.  They bore long
holes as they feed and weaken and destroy the wood.  Infested
trees are often rendered unusable for commercial purposes.

     Adult roundheaded borers (longhorned beetles) do very little
damage to trees and spend most of their time feeding at flowers
on pollen.  A few species commonly referred to as twig pruners
will kill small branches and twigs.

     Roundheaded borers are elongate, cylindrical, and have large
gnawing mandibles.  The name roundheaded borer refers to the
enlarged thorax directly behind the head.

     Adult roundheaded borers are medium to large cylindrical
beetles, usually brown, reddish brown, or black in color.  They
are sometimes mottled or banded with white or gray.  Adult
roundheaded borers are often referred to as longhorned beetles
because of their very long and distinctive 11-segmented antenna,
often longer than the beetle's body.  The thorax and wing covers
on some species bear small, stout spines.

     Adults lay their eggs on weakened and damaged parts of the
tree.  The larvae bore into the tree, feed under the bark at
first, and later bore into the heartwood.  They may take one to
several years to mature before they pupate inside the tree just
under the bark.

     Adults often emerge from firewood that is brought into the
house and may cause concern.  They will not infest structural
wood and are thus a nuisance only.  Insecticide control is not
recommended for firewood, simply burn the infested wood first.

-End-
-Title-
CENTIPEDES, SOW BUGS, PILL BUGS, MILLIPEDES
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
CENTIPEDES, SOW BUGS, PILL BUGS, MILLIPEDES

     There are several insects and relatives to insects that are
commonly encountered in damp basements in the fall.  These
include sow bugs, pill bugs, millipedes, and centipedes.  Pill
bugs, sow bugs, and millipedes feed on decaying vegetation.  They
may be attracted to organic matter in rich potting soils.
Occasionally, they feed on vegetables stored in basements,
especially if the vegetables have been damaged.  Centipedes feed
on live insects and other small animals; they do not damage
plants.  Controlling these pests should start with reducing the
moisture and humidity in the basement, then the use of aerosols.

-End-
-Title-
FLATHEADED BORER - WOOD INFESTING INSECT
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
FLATHEADED BORER - WOOD INFESTING INSECT

     Beetles in the family Buprestidae, or flatheaded borers, are
beautifully marked, metallic-colored beetles, varying greatly in
size but usually somewhat flattened and boat-shaped.  The wood-
boring larvae are characterized by a hammer-headed shape produced
by a flattened enlargement of the body region behind the head.

     The flatheaded borers are of considerable importance in the
forest.  The greatest damage results from the larvae boring into
the sapwood of recently felled logs.  The larvae will attack and
feed on a variety of softwoods and hardwoods.

     Adult females lay eggs singly or in groups on the bark or in
crevices in the bark or wood.  The young borers (larvae) mine the
inner bark or wood.  The galleries of the larvae are flattened,
usually oval in cross section, and winding, gradually enlarging
as the larva increases in size.  These larval mines are always
tightly packed with fine sawdust arranged in arc-like layers.
The adult beetles on emerging through the bark or the wood leave
a characteristic oval or elliptical exit hole.

     The life cycle may be completed in part of one season, or
extend to two years.  Some forms complete their development in
the summer, transform to adults, and do not emerge until the
following spring.

     Buprestis lineata is a common flatheaded borer in the
eastern and southeastern United States.  It has been found
associated with loblolly, scrub, longleaf pine, pitch pine, and
white pine.  It has been found causing damage to log houses in
many parts of the southeast and middle Atlantic states.  The
larvae feed during the summer and early fall, pupation occurs
early in spring, and adults emerge soon after.  The larvae may
require two years to complete development.

     The characteristics of flatheaded borer damage are:  medium
sized (1/4 - 1/2 inch), oval holes in the wood; flattened tunnels
in the sapwood of softwoods and hardwoods; powdery, pale-colored
sawdust in tunnels.

     Flatheaded borers are rarely a problem in Virginia, and
infestations tend to be small and localized.  If control is
desired, the best method is to spot treat the local infestations.
This can be done by applying insecticides to the surface of the
wood to prevent reinfestation, and perhaps kill larvae that feed
close to the surface and contact the chemical just below the
surface.

-End-

-Title-
Bagworm
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Bagworm

Lepidoptera:  Psychidae, Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Juniper, arborvitae, other cedars, pine, hemlock,
spruce, Chinese elm, honeylocust, primarily also on crabapple, maple,
sycamore, box elder, willow, linden, poplar, and many others.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Increasing degree of leaf damage from June to
defoliation by late July and August.  Stripping of leaves usually most
noticeable in the uppermost parts of trees and shrubbery.  Associated with
presence of many psindle-shaped bags up to 1 1/2" in length from late
summer to spring.

IDENTIFICATION:  Larvae enclosed in cone-shaped bags consume foliage.
Insect seldom seen, except head of larva protruding from the bag.  The
larva is mottled brown to black, enclosed in a bag spun from silkstrands,
incorporating bits of leaves and twigs from the host.  During June bags
are difficult to see, since they start less than 1/4" in length.  Bags
increase to 1 1/2" by late summer.  Adult males fly and are the only form
occurring outside the bags.  Females develop inside the pupal case within
the bag where the eggs are laid.

LIFE HISTORY:  Overwintering eggs begin hatching in early June.  The tiny
larva immediately begins to construct a tiny silken bag around itself and
initiates feeding.  Larvae and bags remain small (less than 1/4" long) for
a few weeks and are not easily discovered.  Feeding and molting continues
until August when pupation occurs.  Adults are active in late August and
September.  Only males leave the bag to mate with females which remain in
the bags to lay overwintering eggs.  Prior to molting and pupation, larvae
attach the bag by silk strands to twigs and close the opening, protecting
the larva.

CONTROL:  It is important to treat during mid-June.  Small larvae are more
susceptible to insecticides.  Larger larvae and molting larvae are not
easily killed.  Insecticides with some residual are preferred.  Picking
off and burning bags from fall till spring will reduce populations, but is
tedious.  The presence of bags during winter is a good indication of which
plants to treat the following year.  Diazinon, carbaryl, and dimethoate
are effective.  One generation per year.

REMARKS:  Bagworm is a serious pest, capable of rapid buildup and
extensive defoliation.  Annual surveys during fall, winter, or early
spring are important to detect infested plants before serious damage
results.

-End-
-Title-
Boxelder Bugs
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Boxelder Bugs



PLANTS ATTACKED:  Boxelder trees and other trees and plants.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Boxelder bugs normally feed on the leaves,
flowers, and seed pods of the boxelder tree.  The populations of bugs may
number into the thousands.  Large infestations are usually on the female,
or pod-bearing tree.  While they may feed on male boxelder trees and other
trees and plants, they usually do not build up to such large numbers.  The
bugs cause little damage to trees.

IDENTIFICATION:  This bug is about 1/2" long and 1/3 as wide.  It is black
with 3 red lines on the thorax, and a red line along each side, and an
oblique red line on each wing.  The wings lie flat on the back when at
rest.  They young nymphs are red and gray.

LIFE HISTORY:  The adult bugs lay eggs in the spring and the nymphs emerge
in a few days.  The nymphs are small and show more red than adults.  These
nymphs develop into adults during the summer, then mate and lay eggs which
hatch into the nymphs of the second generation.  Activity of nearly fully
grown nymphs is noticed in August and September when they gather in large
numbers on the trunks of boxelder trees.  The migration of the adults
begins at this time.

The adults' search for a place to overwinter brings them into homes where
they hide in small cracks and crevices in walls, door and window casings,
attics, and around the foundation.  During warm days in winter and early
spring they come out and scatter through the house.  They are primarily a
nuisance as they crawl or fly about in the rooms.  Tye do no damage by
feeding, but their excrement spots on draperies are difficult to remove.

CONTROL:  Non-Chemical--Boxelder bugs do not feed on household structures,
so there is no need for extensive chemical control in the house.  The bugs
can be cleaned up with a vacuum cleaner.

Eliminate hiding places such as piles of rocks, boards, leaves, and
general debris close to houses.  Repair places where the bugs may enter
the house, such as cracks around doors, windows, weather-boarding, and in
the foundation.

Use vacuum cleaner to pick up the bugs in the house.

Chemical--If the bugs become so numerous that a chemical control is
needed, use:  carbaryl (Sevin) 0.12% in water; spray outdoors on the
clusters of boxelder bugs on trunks of trees, or other areas where they
gather.

-End-
-Title-
Boxwood Mite, Boxwood Leafminer, Boxwood Psyllid
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Boxwood Mite, Boxwood Leafminer, Boxwood Psyllid

Order:  Family, species

PLANTS ATTACKED:  American and European Boxwood

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:

Boxwood Mite:  Leaves of infested plants appear to be pin-pricked or
scratched with tiny white or yellow marks.

Boxwood Leafminer:  Infested leaves appear blistered on the underside and
are often discolored.

Boxwood Psyllid:  Their feeding on tender new growth causes leaves to cup
and stunts the growth of shoots.

IDENTIFICATION:

Boxwood Mite:  One of the spider mites. Difficult to find even under a
dissecting microscope.  Egg shells and cast skins can be important clues
but they are not as apparent as they are with other spider mites species.

Boxwood Leafminer:  A small, delicate fly.  Damage is caused by larvae
which feed between the upper and lower layers of leaves.  Two to six
larvae typically occur in a single leaf.  With a little practice, they are
easily found by breaking open a blistered leaf with your thumbnail.

Boxwood Psyllid:  Member of a family of insects closely related to aphids.
 Adults are rarely seen.  Nymphs cover themselves with white, cotton-like
secretions.

LIFE HISTORY:

Boxwood Leafminer:  Larvae overwinter within their mines.  Adult flies are
evident around boxwoods in late April and early May.

Boxwood Psyllid:  Adults are active during July and early August, but they
are rarely seen.  Eggs are laid between bud scales and nymphs emerge from
them in mid-to-late April.  Nymphs soon cover themselves with white,
cotton-like secretions.

-End-
-Title-
Black Vine Weevil (taxus weevil)
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Black Vine Weevil (taxus weevil)

Coleoptera: Curculionidae, Otiorhynchus sulcatus

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Mostly feeds on taxus, euonymus, and other broad and
narrow-leaved evergreens, but feeds on numerous other plants.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Leaf of root feeder.  Not evident until extensive
root damage has been done.  Then plants turn brown and die.  In early
stages of infestation, notches in the margins of leaves indicate presence
of adults and potential larvae in the soil.  On taxus, needles nearer to
the main trunk down inside the shrub show notching and feeding scars.
Broad-leaved evergreens exhibit notching similar to that caused by the
Japanese weevil and fullers rose beetle. Black adults chew marginal
notches in leaves; larvae chew off roots.

IDENTIFICATION:  Adults are black, large (1/4") weevils with short broad
snouts.  The head is narrow, the thorax medium and rounded, and the wing
covers broad and well rounded.  (See card illustrations).  The wing covers
have find yellow hairs present and conspicuous corrugations which appear
as lines down the back.  Wing covers are fused together; adults cannot fly.

LIFE HISTORY:  Overwintering larvae feed on roots in the spring deep in
the soil and pupate in May.  Adults dig their way out of the ground in mid
june and crawl up the plants to feed.  Feeding occurs mostly at night and
adults hide in dark places during the day on the plants or on the ground.
When disturbed they quickly drop to the ground.  After 1-2 weeks of
feeding adults crawl or drop to the ground to lay eggs.  For several weeks
they alternately feed and lay eggs.  Occasionally a few adults can be
found in houses during winter, presumably able to overwinter in this
stage.  Most die in the fall and larvae survive the winter.  One
generation per year.

CONTROL:  It is critical to apply an insecticide after most adults have
emerged but before they begin laying eggs.  The second or third week of
June is optimal.  Chlordane is effective.  Other available insecticides
have not been found to be effective.  There is NO evidence that grub
treatments will control this species.  Tests have not been successful.
Adult treatments should be made thoroughly to treat the soil surface, the
main stems and branches.

REMARKS:  Control is aimed at adults as they crawl on the ground and up
the plants.  Taxus should be examined by looking for adults feeding down
in the center of plants near the amin trunk or stems.  Adults usually hide
in crotches under heavy bunches of needles.  Larvae overwinter in the soil.

-End-
-Title-
Cottony Maple Scale
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Cottony Maple Scale

Homoptera: Coccidae, Pulvinaria innumerabilis

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Maples.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Discoloration and deformity of leaves feeding on
may kill branches and twigs heavily infested.

IDENTIFICATION:  Larger than maple leaf scale - it is brown in color and
elongate and oval in shape.

LIFE HISTORY:  Eggs are laid in April and June and hatching occurs
throughout the early summer.  Crawlers ettle on leaves, and stems.  Nymphs
complete their development by fall and are fertilized.  The adult female
then migrates back to the stem to overwinter.  In spring the eggs are laid
in a white cottony sac which usually has no distinct characteristic.  One
generation per year.  Overwinter as adults.

CONTROL:  Bimonthly sprays during the crawler stage in early summer.

REMARKS:  Heavily fed upon by natural enemies, and in some cases chemical
controls are not needed.  Sometimes confused with Maple leaf scale.  Egg
masses are primarily on the branches and stems.

-End-
-Title-
Dogwood Twig Borer
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Dogwood Twig Borer

Coleoptera: Cerambycidae, Obrea tripunctata

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Elm, dogwood, viburnum and many fruit trees.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  The larvae feed down the center of the branch
making a long series of closely placed round holes for the exudation of
frass.  Periodically the larvae cut off portions of the twig from within
and continues feeding on the green wood.

IDENTIFICATION:  Larvae tunnel in live twigs.  Larvae are about 1-2" long
and white with a yellowish-brown head.  Adults are cylindrical, with a
black head, wing covers, and abdomen.  Thorax is orange with three black
dots.

LIFE HISTORY:  Adult borers appear in early June.  They girdle the tips of
branches and deposit their eggs on the living twigs near the girdling.
Eggs hatch and the larvae enter the twig and bore down the center.  Damage
usually causes death to branches and ruins the appearance of shrubs or
trees.  The larvae overwinter in the stems.  In spring some larvae pupate
while others continue to develop into the second year.  Thos pupating
emerge by mid May or early june.  One generation per year.  Larvae or
pupae overwinter.

CONTROL:  Pruning burning of infested twigs is an effective control
measure.  Sprays with recommended materials (in C.S. 141) prior to budding
will also control this borer.

-End-
-Title-
Elm Leaf Beetle
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Elm Leaf Beetle

Coleoptera:  Chrysomelidae, Pyrrhalta luteola

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Chinese, English, Camperdown, American elms severely,
also other elms.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Young larvae produce light skeletonizing on under
surfaces of leaves, which increases in severity as larvae grow larger.
Larvae do not chew holes in leaves, but drying of epidermis often results
in dead tissue dropping out of leaves, leaving holes.  Trees appear quite
brown from a distance.

IDENTIFICATION:  Newly hatched larvae are black; newly molted larvae are
yellowish to olive green with a light dorsum.  Two rows of dark green
spots occur along the dorsum.  Mature larvae are much darker.  Pupae are
bright yellow and found in July on the trunk and bases of trees in
clusters up to 1" dep.  Adults are olive green in fall and dull dark olive
by spring.  The wing covers are yellowish with two basal spots and two
marginal bands of dark olive color.

LIFE HISTORY:  Overwintering adults migrate from protected areas as new
leaves unfold from the buds in early spring.  They chew very small
inconsequential holes in the new leaves and are ctive but uninjurious
until late May or early June when they lay clusters of orange eggs
(resembling lady beetle eggs) on the undersides of elm leaves.  Egg laying
may occur over a two week period.  Feeding by larvae occurs June into
mid-July as the immatures develop.  By July larvae start migrating down
the branches to pupate in the cracks of the trunk and in the grass and
leaves adjacent to the base of the tree.  Adults begin emerging within
7-10 days and are active but noninjurious until fall when they fly to
buildings to hibernate.  One generation per year.

CONTROL:  Application of an insecticide soon after most eggs have hatched
is essential.  normally this is in late May to early June.  Spraying too
early or later than mid-June is not effective.  Spraying for adults or
pupae at the bases of trees is not effective.  Mist blowers are highly
effective, as well ashydraulic sprayers.  Homeowners are not equipped to
spray large trees and should contract with arborists or commercial
applicators.  Proper timing and equipment large enough to cover tall trees
should be specified in a contract.

REMARKS:  Control of adults in buildings is a household insect problem;
but this is not an effective means of protecting trees.  Good control of
elm leaf beetle on trees on an area-wide basis will reduce problems of
overwintering beetles in houses.  Previously, elm leaf beetle was named
Galerucella  xanthomelaena.

-End-
-Title-
Eastern Test Caterpillar
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Eastern Test Caterpillar

Lepidoptera: Lasiocampidae, Malacosoma americanum

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Black cherry, choke cherry and apple are favored; also
feeds on hawthorn, pear, plum, and flowering fruits.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Defoliator.  The larvae initiate small webs ni
branch crotches as soon as eggs hatch.  As the larvae feed on the foliage,
they continually increase the size of the web until it is a large nest or
tent, a foot or more in length.  Most larvae crawl back to the tent at
night, but forage out to feed during the day, defoliating increasingly
larger portions of the branches and tree.

LIFE HISTORY:  Winter is spent in the egg stage as one of many in a dark
brown varnished collar or belt encircling the twigs.  The young larvae
hatch at or before bud growth in March or April and gather in a fork of
the limbs to spin their large webby nests.  The larvae leave during the
day to feed, but return to the nest at night, or during rainy weather.
They are full grown (2 to 2 1/2 inches) in 4 to 6 weeks and often crawl to
nearby buildings or protected places to spin their dirty white cocoon.
The moths emerge in about 3 weeks and each female lays an egg collar
(containing 150 to 350 eggs) around a twig.  One generation per year.
Overwinter in egg masses on small twigs.

CONTROL:  Early control is important.  However, it is difficult becaue
larvae begin feeding on leaves unfolding from the bud before there is
adequate leaf surface to be sprayed.  Insecticides with residual
effectiveness are desirable.  Most will kill larvae hit by the spray,
however, larvae in webs are protected from sprays.  Treat foliage and
twigs during the day.  Webs can be flash-flamed at night with care not to
get bark scorch or burning.  See C.S. 142, C.S. 143 for recommendations
for sprays.  Carbaryl is most effective.

REMARKS:  Larvae most frequently cause concern when migrating to protected
places to hibernate.  They crawl on other types of plants, roadways,
walks, buildings, etc.  Suggesting infestations elsewhere than on the
host.  No further feeding occurs when larvae are mature and migrate.
Insecticides are generally ineffective against mature larvae.

-End-
-Title-
Euonymus Scale
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Euonymus Scale

Homoptera: Diaspididae, Unaspis euonymi (Comstock)

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Euonymus, bittersweet, pachysandra, etc.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Plants loose vigor and become spindly.  The leaves
turn yellow and fall prematurely.  Heavy infestations can kill the plants.

IDENTIFICATION:  Females, pear-shaped and dark brown, male scales are
white with yellow cap on one end - easily observable on plants.  All
stages damage plants.

LIFE HISTORY:  Eggs are laid early in the spring and hatch in late May or
early June.  These crawlers settle quickly and produce a second brood by
mid-July.  A third brood is produced in October.  There is continuous
overlapping of broods, so that, all stages may be found during favorable
conditions.  Two to three-plus generations per year; weather dependent.
Overwintering stage - adult female.

CONTROL:  Sprays applied at time of hatch in late May and repeated in 7-10
days should control crawlers.  For heavy infestations spray in early June,
mid July, and early October as stated above.

REMARKS:  We still lack a thoroughly effective control.  Most difficult to
kill are scales at the base of the plant near the ground, particularly on
vine type of euonymus.

-End-
-Title-
European Hornet
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
European Hornet

Hymenoptera:  Vespidae, Vespa crabro germana

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Lilac boxwood, birch, willow, poplar, Ligustrum,
rhododendron and other trees and shrubs.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  May girdle smaller twigs and gnaw holes in the
bark of larger branches.  Often the portion of the twig beyond the girdled
area dies.  Injury becomes most noticeable in August and September.  The
hornets chew off the bark for use in making their paper nests.

IDENTIFICATION:  This is the largest hornet in this country, approximately
1 inch long, dark reddish brown with orange markings on the abdomen.  It
resembles the cicada killer but is stouter and hairier.

LIFE HISTORY:  Damage is most extensive in late summer and early fall when
large colonies have developed.  The hornets build their nests in protected
areas such as hollow trees, hollow posts, partitions in sheds, barns,
porches, attics and occasionally in the ground.  Nests generally consist
of several horizontal combs, without the papery covering associated with
many other hornets' nests.  Nests can be very large, up to 2-3 feet in
length and 20 inches in diameter.  These hornets have a large stinger and
large poison sac but they do not appear to be particularly aggressive or
vicious.

CONTROL:  There is no known insecticidal control on host plants.  Attempt
to locate the nest by following the hornet in its flight to and from the
nest and destroy the nest when located.  See Insect Control for
ornamentals, Gardens, and the Home, Publication 690 and Pest Management
Guide 1, "Insect Pests of Recreation Areas" and "Insects-Household" for
correct procedure for destroying nests.

-End-
-Title-
European Rose Slug
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
European Rose Slug

Hymenoptera:  Tenthredinidae, Caliroa aethiops

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Most varieties of rose.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  The larvae feeds on the upper surface only,
skeletonizing the leaves, only the soft tissue is eaten, leaving the veins
and lower epidermal tissues.

IDENTIFICATION:  The larva is yellowish green in color and partially
translucent with ingested food causing the digestive track to appear to be
dark olive green.  There are two other species of sawfly on rose, the
bristly rose slug and the coiled roseworm, both of which do not
skeletonize, but chew holes in the foliage.

LIFE HISTORY:  Eggs are laid in pockets in the leaf tissue near the edge
of the leaflets.  The larvae skeletonize the upper surface of the leaf.
When they are full-grown, the larvae leaves the bush and enters the ground
where it constructs a cell, cementing together particles of sand and earth
to form a capsule-shaped chamber.  This stage of quiescence occupies the
largest part of the year.  One generation per year.  Overwintering stage -
pupa.

CONTROL:  Application of carbaryl when the initial signs of skeletonizing
appear is effective.  Emergence of adults occurs in late spring, but may
occur over a period of time.  Surveillance of plants is important to
determine when plants should be treated and when treatments need to be
repeated.  Feeding progresses rapidly.  A period of relatively few days
results in extensive skeletonizing, if infestations are overlooked and not
treated.

REMARKS:  Rose slugs are more unsightly and aesthetically undesirable than
seriously damaging to the plants.  They are conspicuous and cause concern
resulting in numerous calls for diagnosis.  The application of control
measure is a judgment decision based on the immediate aesthetic value of
the foilage.

-End-
-Title-
MIMOSAWWMimosa Webworm
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
     MIMOSAWWMimosa Webworm

     LSRPCHTRLesser Peach Tree Borer

     OBSRESCLObscure Scale

     OYSTRSHLOystershell Scale

     PCHTREBRPeach Tree Borer

     PINEBRKAPine Bark Aphid

     PINENDLSPine Needle Scale

     PINESAWYPine Sawyers

     PSOCIDSPsocids

     RDHDASHBRedheaded Ask Borer

     RNDHDATBRound-headed Apple Tree Borer

     TRNSHPLBTarnished Plant Bug

     TULPTSCLTulip Tree Scale

     TULPTLFMTulip Tree Leaf Miner

     WAXSCALE(Ceriferus) Waxscale

     WHPCHSCLWhite Peach Scale

     LILACBORLilac Borer

     BOXWODINBoxwood Insects

-End-
-Title-
Fall Webworm
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Fall Webworm

Lepidoptera:  Arctiidae, Hyphantria cunea

PLANTS ATTACKED:  120 varieties of fruit, shade, and woodland trees.
Favorite hosts are: apple, cherry, peach, pecan, English walnut, black
walnut, ash, boxelder, birch, choke cherry, elm, hickory, linden, poplar,
sycamore, white oak, and willows -- sometimes roses and other shrubs.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Damage is much like that of the tent caterpillar,
but it makes its nest over the end of branches, never in tree crotches.
The web initially involves a few leaves at the end of a single branch.  As
larvae grow, more leaves are covered with unsightly, conspicuous webs
until an entire branch or several may be attacked.  Webs often are 2-3
feet long.

IDENTIFICATION:  The full grown larva is about 1" long, very hairy, and
pale yellowish or greenish.  There is a broad darkish band down the dorsum
and a yellowish stripe along the sides.  Body hairs arise from black and
orange humps on the body.

LIFE HISTORY:  Cocoons enclosing brown pupae winter under trash on ground
or under loose bark.  Moths emerge in May and June and again in July and
August.  Eggs are laid in white masses of 400-500 on the undersides of
leaves.  As soon as they hatch larvae begin to spin webs over the foliage
and begin to feed on the enclosed leaves.  The web is enlarged as the
larvae grow and consume the foliage.  Larvae are gregarious and remain
clustered, usually not crawling away from the web until ready to pupate.
Larvae drop or crawl to the ground to spin cocoons in hidden places in the
duff, ground litter, or other debris.  Adults, may emerge over a period of
2 or 3 weeks, thus not all webs are started at the same time.  One or two
generations per year.  Overwintering stage - pupae.

CONTROL:  Since larvae are gregarious, only one or a few branches in an
entire tree are affected when populations are light.  Which branch is
involved is not known until webbing is first produced.  Spot treatments of
infestations when larvae first begin to produce webs is most effective.
Light foliage feeding is not injurious.  Treat branches whith carbaryl
(Sevin) when webs first appear.  Spray the entire branch.  Where
infestations have been severe, it is worthwhile to spray the entire tree
to avoid frequent repetition of spot treatments.  New webs begin to appear
in mid to late June.

REMARKS:  The eastern tent caterpillar produces webs in the crotches of
larger branches never at the ends of branches.  It is an early spring pest
and larvae are gone by the time fall webworm appears.

-End-
-Title-
Flatheaded Apple Tree Borer
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Flatheaded Apple Tree Borer

Coleoptera:  Buprestidae, Chrysobothris femorata

PLANTS ATTACKED:  All hardwoods.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  The larvae girdle the trees causing their death.
If the tree is not killed, the mines or tunnels produced by the larvae
produce large deadened patches of bark which peel off.

IDENTIFICATION: Adult is elongate-oval, flattened, shiny dark bronze
above and brassy beneath.  The wings are marked with irregular
impressions.  The larvae is flat headed and grayish white.  Damaging
stage : larvae.

LIFE HISTORY:  They are very injurious to weakened or injured hardwoods.
The eggs are laid beneath scales of bark, from which points the larvae
extend meandering galleries.  At maturity the larvae move from under the
bark into the wood and form the pupal cells.  They overwinter in the pupal
stage and mature in the spring.  The adults begin emerging in the late
spring and emerge throughout the summer.  They are very nervous and active
insects which buzz like bees when flying.  They may be found on the sunny
side of infested trees.  One generation per year.  Overwintering stage -
pupa.

CONTROL:  No satisfactory sprays are available for this pest.  Since they
attack weakened and injured trees it is advantageous to keep trees healthy
by proper watering and fertilizing to stimulate growth, therefore making
the plant more resistant.  The use of mechanical barriers such as paper or
burlap around the steps of pruned or transplanted trees will prevent
attack.

-End-
-Title-
Gloomy Scale
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Gloomy Scale

Homoptera:  Diaspididae, Melanaspis tenebricosus (Comstock)

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Primarily red and silver maple; also elm, hackberry, and
boxelder.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  The bark becomes roughened and encrusted with
scales.  Branches and limbs die back and result in a rapid decline in tree
vigor, occasionally resulting in the death of trees.  Seriously weakened
trees are common in Virginia as a result of scale populations, especially
red and silver maples.

IDENTIFICATION:  The scale cover is circular, dark gray, with a black
nipple on dorsum.  The underside cover is snowy white.  Damaging stage -
nymphs and adults.

LIFE HISTORY:  Immatures complete development in spring and by early- to
mid-June eggs are hatching.  These crawlers settle and produce a second
brood by late summer to early fall.  These immatures overwinter until
spring when development is completed.  Two-plus generations per year.
Overwintering stage - immatures.

CONTROL:  Spray with oils during dormant periods.  Sprays for crawlers may
help, but crawlers emerge over a long period.  There is a peak in
mid-June, but 2 or 3 sprays at weekly intervals are necessary to obtain
only fair control.

REMARKS:  Very destructive to forest and shade trees.

-End-
-Title-
Gypsy Moth
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Gypsy Moth

Lepidoptera:  Lymantriidae, Lymantria dispar (L.)

PLANTS ATTACKED:  General feeder on trees and shrubs.  Preferred hosts
include oak, willow, apple, alder, poplar, sumac, larch, birch, and many
others.  In addition, pine, spruce, and hemlock are fed upon by large
larvae during severe infestations if favored hosts are available which
allow the young larvae to begin development and become established.
Plants which usually are avoided include:  arborvitae, ash, azalea,
catalpa, cedar, dogwood, holly, locust, maple, sycamore, yellow poplar,
and walnut.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  In lightly infested areas, feeding by the gypsy
moth caterpillars often goes unnoticed.  However, in heavy infestations,
all the leaves may be stripped from suitable hosts.

Deciduous trees usually can withstand one or two complete defoliations by
caterpillars.  By mid-summer defoliated trees put out new leaves, but the
foliage is less dense and the leaves smaller.  If this happens more than
two consecutive years, the tree food reserves may become critically low.
In this condition, trees become susceptible to secondary insect pests,
diseases, and unfavorable environmental conditions (drought).

Evergreens are much less tolerant of defoliation.  Many are unable to
survive a single season of heavy feeding.

IDENTIFICATION:  Gypsy moth eggs are laid in clusters called egg masses.
Each egg mass contains 100 to 1,000 round, brown or black eggs.  They are
scattered among the hairs of a felt-like mat from 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches
long.  The buff-colored egg masses are found ost commonly on tree trunks,
often near the base, but upper branches, rocks, stacked firewood, houses,
and other objects are all suitable egg-laying sites.

The caterpillars are less than 1/4 inch long when they hatch, but at
maturity they will have grown to nearly 2-1/2 inches.  The brownish black
caterpillars are covered with tufts of long, soft hairs.  Older ones have
three light stripes which run along their backs, and each segment bears a
pair of colored spots.  The first five pairs are blue, the last six are
red.  Pupae are brown and teardrop shaped.

The adult male moth is mottled brown with a wingspread of about 1-1/2
inches.  The front wings have black wavy lines and V-shaped markings.
They are strong flyers.  Male moths have large feather-like antennae which
they use to find females.  Female gypsy moths are larger with wingspreads
of 2 to 2-1/2 inches, but cannot fly.  They are predominantly white with a
yellow abdomen.  Their forewings also have black wavy lines and V-shaped
markings.  The hindwings are off-white, and both pairs of wings have a
line of black dots near the outer edge.

LIFE HISTORY:  The gypsy moth has one generation per year nad overwinters
in the egg stage.  Eggs begin to hatch in April in warm sunny places, and
the hatch may continue for about a month.  Tiny caterpillars soon climb
trees and begin feeding.  Natural spread occurs during this stage when the
small, hairy larvae suspend themselves on silken threads and are picked up
by the wind.  Young caterpillars feed during the day and rest on the
foliage at night.  Larger caterpillars feed mostly at night and crawl down
the tree to rest in protected shady spots during the day.  In overcrowded
areas, however, larvae will feed day and night to try to satisfy their
hunger.  At maturity each is capable of devouring several leaves per day.
This stage is prevalent from early June to early July.  Short distance
dispersal may occur at this time when hungry caterpillars wander in search
of new food or hiding places in which to pupate.

Pupation takes place in sheltered spots over a period lasting from 7 to 17
days.  Adult moths begin to emerge around July 1.  The females are so
heavily laden with eggs that they cannot fly.  They crawl or flutter a
short distance from their pupal cases and begin to emit a chemical
(pheromone) which attracts males.  Egg laying begins soon after mating,
and once this is completed the moths die.  Adults do not feed; their sole
function is to reproduce.

Gypsy moth numbers in an area tend to fluctuate widely.  For long periods,
they may be relatively scare, then populations increase, and they become
incredibly abundant.  Sudden population collapses are also characteristic
of the species.

CONTROL:  Non-Chemical--Manual methods of control are cheap and usually
sufficiently effective in lightly infested areas to prevent defoliation of
individual shade trees and very small wood lots.  Egg masses should be
painted with creosote or scraped off with a putty knife and buried,
burned, or put into a container of kerosene or gasoline.  Caterpillars can
be trapped under bands of burlap as they move up and down trees in their
daily cycle.  Cut the burlap into strips about 10 inches wide.  Wrap the
strip around a tree, tie it in the middle with a peice of cord, and fold
the top down to produce a double flap.  Check the flaps daily and remove
and destroy all caterpillars and pupae.

Chemical--Contact your County Extension Office of the Virginia Department
of Agriculture and Consumer Services for insecticide recommendations.
Protection of large trees will normally require hiring professionals in
tree maintenance.

REMARKS:  The gypsy moth is one of the most serious pest of trees int he
Eastern United States.  A french scientist brought it to this country from
Europe in 1869 hoping to develop a hardy, silk-producing caterpillar.
Some of the larvae escaped creating a colossal pest problem.  The first
noticeable defoliation occurred in Medford, Massachusetts, in 1889.  By
1905 the infestation had spread to Connecticutt; it reached New York in
1922 and Pennsylvania in 1932.  Like ripples in a pond, the outbreak
continues to expand.  The leading edge of the outbreak reached Northern
Virginia in 1981.  In the future, the gypsy moth may occupy all of
Virginia and eventually all the predominantly oak forest regions east of
the Great Plains.

-End-
-Title-
Hickory Leaf Stem Gall Aphid
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Hickory Leaf Stem Gall Aphid

Homoptera:  Phylloxeridae, Phylloxera caryaecaulis

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Hickory.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Development of swellings or galls on petioles and
occasionally new shoots of hickory.  In spring and early summer the galls
are green, leathery, and bullet shaped varying in size from a pea to 1/2"
or more in diameter.  The galls may be round or irregular in shape.  By
mid- to late-summer, the leaves fall prematurely, causing concern by the
tree's owner.  Damaging stages - adults and nymphs.

IDENTIFICATION:  Typical adelgid or chermid aphids fill the galls.  The
aphids are whitish to greenish and live among considerable waxy
secretions.  Adult initially enclosed by the gall produce a great many
young, filling the gall with small and large aphids by the time the galls
is fully developed.

LIFE HISTORY:  Eggs are laid in late summer or fall in cracks and crevices
of the bark and in old stem galls.  The eggs hatch as new budgs open and
grown in the early spring.  Young aphids crawl to newly expanding foliage
where they feed on the new growth by piercing the epidermis and sucking
cell sap.  The feeding causes the tissue to grow galls which enclose the
aphids.  Several generations of aphids develop within the galls during
May, and June, and into July.  In late July, the galls split open, turn
black and jagged in appearance and the aphids emerge.  At this time most
of the affected leaves fall prematurely.  Several generations per year.
Overwintering stage - eggs in gall and bark crevices.

CONTROL:  Malathion sprays have been suggested when the buds have expanded
to about 1/2" and are beginning to show green.  However, reports indicate
this treatment may not be very effective.  Determining the exact timing is
difficult and it is unlikely all aphids will be hit with insecticides.  No
other control measures have been developed.

REMARKS:  This pest is not likely to cause serious damage to the trees.
Pre-mature leaf drop alarms tree owners resulting in calls and questions.
However, the problem is minor.  When leaf drop is noticed it is much too
late to take action.

-End-
-Title-
Holly Leafminer & Nature Holly Leafminer
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Holly Leafminer & Nature Holly Leafminer

Diptera:  Agromyzidae, Phytomyza ilicis & P. ilicicola

PLANTS ATTACKED:  American and English varieties of boxwood, inkberry.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Linear or blotch mines are evident on the upper
surface of leaves from July through May.  P. ilicis makes a linear mine;
P. ilicicola makes a blotch mine.  There are numerous other species of
holly leafminers more or less related to specific hosts.  Japanese and
Chinese hollies are not attacked by leafminers.  Adult feeding causes
numerous puncture marks on the undersides of the leaves.

IDENTIFICATION:  Adults can be seen in early May when new growth is 1/2-1"
in length.  They are jet black, shiny flies about 1/16" long.  Larvae are
cream colored to yellowish and one per mine is usual.  Leaves may have one
or more mines per leaf.  Pupae are brown to black and located in the leaf
attached to a grayish spot where the adult will emerge.

LIFE HISTORY:  Pupation may occur in late fall or early spring.  Adult
emergence begins in early May and peaks as new leaves and shoots begin to
develop, about the time old leaves naturally drop to the ground on
American Holly.  Adult flies spend a several days puncturing new leaves
with the ovipositor and feeding on bleeding cell sap.  In mid May they
insert their ovipositors deep into leaf tissue from the underside and
deposit an egg.  Larval development starts two or three weeks later in
June.  Larvae develop slowly until mid or late summer when mines develop
into a lrge blotch.  Larval development is complete by fall.  One
generation per year.  Overwintering stage - larvae.

CONTROL:  Systemic insecticides, dimethoate and oxydemetonmethyl, are
highly effective if applied after eggs have hatched.  Best time to treat i
mid-June, although later treatment iwll kill larvae.  Diazinon is also
effective after mines have started to form.  Malathion is fair for
control.  applications made before June are ineffective.  when contact
insecticides, such as DDT, were used previously, treatments were suggested
when adults were active.  Some people have switched to new materials but
have not changed timing.  Ineffective results are thus obtained.
Dimethoate will injure Chinese Holly varieties, especialy burfordi, but
leafminers do not attack these plants.

REMARKS:  Be sure to include a precaution against spraying Chinese Hollies
with dimethoate.

-End-
-Title-
Iris Borer
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Iris Borer

Macronoctua onusta (Grote)

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Iris and the native blue flag.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Larvae may completely hollow-out one or more
rhizomes.

IDENTIFICATION: Full grown caterpillars are cylindrical, smooth, and
measure up to 1 3/4" long.  Pupae are dark brown to nearly black and
quite shiny.  Adult moths have a wing spread of 1 1/2-2 inches.  The
wings are covered with scales, purplish brown on the front wings and
yellowish on the hind wings.  Eggs are not smooth but highly sculptured.
From an initial creamy color with a greenish tinge, they become lavender
in color.  They are found primarily in creviceds and rough spots on
dried out, brown, dead leaves.

LIFE HISTORY:  Adult moths may produce as many as 1000 eggs.  They are
laid in the fall on brown, dried leaves and remain there through the
winter until spring.  Hatching occurs in April and larvae feed on the
leaves.  Some leaf-mining occurs before the larvae work down into the
lower parts of the growing plants.  They reach the crown and rhizome when
about half grown.  During the summer the large larvae may completely
hollow out one or more rhizomes.  By August pupation is initiated and
adult moths emerge in September and October.

CONTROL:  Removal and burning of dead leaves, dried rhizomes, and damaged
plants helps destroy large numbers of eggs.  Adult moths are active fliers
and may invade healthy beds.

Until withdrawn from use, DDT was highly effective against this pest.
Recent tests have shown that several other insecticides will control iris
borer.  Sprays of either carbaryl (Sevin) or malathion are recommended for
application in early April.  Malathion can also be used effectively.
Control measures should be applied every year.  Community effort is
important in reducing the number of insects over a wide area as a means of
preventing infestation.

REMARKS:  This insect is not conspicuous, since the adult moths fly at
night, so are seldom seen.  Also larval feeding is not apparent until
considerable damage has been done.  Extensive injury to the rhizomes can
occur before the plants begin to collapse.

Frequently bacterial rot is associated with the feeding of the larvae.
The bacterium is introduced through wounds and results in progressive
foul-smelling decay of rhizomes.

-End-
-Title-
Imported Willow Leaf Beetle
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Imported Willow Leaf Beetle

Coleoptera:  Chrysomelidae, Plagiodera versicolora (Laicharting)

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Most willows (primarily on black and white willow; feeds
but not severely on weeping willow).

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  The larvae skeletonize the underside of the leaves
in feeding.  The adults chew holes in the leaves, but the total area
consumed is less than larvae.  Trees can be turned completely brown from
severe populations.  Damaging stages - larvae primarily and adults.

IDENTIFICATION:  Adults are metallic-blue about 1/8" long, the eggs are
yellow.  Larvae are cream-colored when they molt but darken gradually to
black.  The body of the larvae bears many black and brown markings and is
about 3/16" long when full grown.  Eggs are yellow, spindle-shaped and
laid on end in clusters on the undersides of the leaves.

LIFE HISTORY:  The hibernating adult begins to emerge in the spring when
foliage appears.  These adults feed on the new leaves, cutting holes in
them.  The eggs are laid for the first generation and they hatch in about
a week.  In less than a month, usually the adults emerge from pupae which
have been formed by larvae on the leaves.  Adults of the 2nd generation
develop in early July and a 3rd in early August.  These adults feed
heavily for a number of days and by the last of August, practically all
have entered hibernation.  Only a few of this generation mate and deposit
eggs that develop into a partial 4th generation.  Three and sometimes a
partial fourth generation per year.  Overwintering stages - adults, under
bark or other shelter.

CONTROL:  Control of willow leaf beetle is simply a matter of applying a
residual spray of carbaryl (Sevin) when larvae are first noticed hatching
from egg masses.  In areas where willow leaf beetle is established, it
will be necessary to treat 2 or 3 times during the season for 2nd and 3rd
generations.  Plants should be checked periodically for the presence of
egg masses and newly emerged larvae.

-End-
-Title-
Japanese Weevil
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Japanese Weevil

Coleoptera:  Curculionidae, Pseudocneorhinus bifasciatus

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Long list of hosts, but especially on cherry laurel,
broadleaved evergreens, pyracantha, privet, barberry, euonymus, very many
others.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Foliage is more or less chewed beginning as
marginal notches increasing to large rounded sections of the leaves being
consumed.  Never are holes cut in the inner part of the leaf; always
inward from the margin.  Larvae feed on roots of plants in the soil, but
their habits are not well known, nor is the extent of injury produced.
Injury is not distinguishable from that caused by black vine weevil,
fullers rose beetle, and other species.

IDENTIFICATION:  The adults are mottled grayish light brown.  The body is
more round and stubby than elongate as with many weevils.  Although they
feed in daytime, they frequently hide under leaves, in crotches, and are
not easily detected in light infestations.  Larvae are legless, more or
less C-shaped grubs in the soil, seldom seen or found.

LIFE HISTORY:  Little is known about the life history of this weevil.
Adults are most frequently found first during mid to late June and
continue to inhabit host plants and feed over several weeks or more.
Presumably they lay their eggs in the soil during midsummer and the larvae
feed on plant roots until late the following spring.  Adults cannot fly
since the wing covers are fused together.  One generation per year.
Overwintering stage - larvae in the ground.

CONTROL:  Adequate tests for control of this insect have not been tested.
Use information indicates that chlordane is effective, but slow-acting.
Trees should be sprayed during the second or third week of June,
preferably, but can be treated whenever the weevils are seen.  Spray
trunk, branches, and the foliage.

REMARKS:  There are reports in the literature that populations have built
up into the thousands on occasion.  There are no recent records of such
outbreaks, although light infestations are relatively common in the
southeastern part of the state.  Japanese weevil is known to be equally
abundant northward to and including Long Island, New York.

-End-
-Title-
Juniper Scale
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Juniper Scale

Homoptera:  Diaspididae, Carulaspis juniperi (Bouche')

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Juniper sp.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Needles in area of feeding become yellowish or
straw colored and die.  Damaging stages - all stages.

IDENTIFICATION:  Males most easily observed.  They have an elongate white
covering with a yellow cap at one end.  The female coverings are circular
and tan in color.  The female under the cover is also circular and yellow
in color.

LIFE HISTORY:  Fifteen to forty eggs are laid beneath female scale about
the first of May.  Hatching occurs about the first of June.  The crawlers
settle shortly after hatching and begin feeding.  The females have 3
instars, the males, 5 instars.  The males do not overwinter.  They develop
by fall, emerge, mater, and die soon after.  One or two generations per
year.  Overwintering stage - fertilized adults.

CONTROL:  At least 2 sprays 1 week apart beginning about the first of
June.  Eggs hatch over a period of 2 weeks or more.  Dormant sprays help
but are not thoroughly effective.  Oils are not as effective as lime
sulfur, but lime sulfur severely stains white paint, woodwork, and stone
work.

REMARKS:  We still lack a thoroughly effective control.  Control measures
should be applied for 2-3 years to clear up infestations.

-End-
-Title-
Juniper Webworm
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Juniper Webworm

Lepidoptera:  Gelechiidae, Dichomeris marginella

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Red cedar, Irish juniper, also-pfitzer, hetzi, and
creeping juniper.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Large brown patches scattered throughout the plant
are apparent from a distance.  Close examination shows masses of brown
needles webbed together and pulled in toward the twigs.  When pulled
apart, larvae can be found within the webbing and dead needles.

IDENTIFICATION:  Larvae are about 1/2" long when fully developed.  They
are brown with longitudinal reddish brown stripes.  The adults are not
often seen, but are light brown and almost 1/2" long.

LIFE HISTORY:  Where one generation occurs, moths occur during late June
and July, when there are two, adults may occur in May and June and again
in July and early August.  Eggs are laid on the foliage and hatch shortly
afterward.  Larvae feed for a few to several weeks, pupating in the webs.
The winter is spent as young larvae in the webs.  It is likely that one
generation occurs in Virginia.  Most larval development occurs in the
spring and early summer, but youngest larvae are present in late July and
August until the following spring.

CONTROL:  Insecticides can be applied in the spring, but the best time is
in late July or early august.  Diazinon or carbaryl give effective
control, although webbing may permit some survivors.  Sprays are most
effective against young larvae in late July and August, but can be applied
in April and early May.  Strong spray streams should be directed into the
webbing to provide maximum penetration.

REMARKS:  This pest has not been reported as common inthe state, but does
occur throughout Virginia.  If heavy populations build up, it can be a
serious pest.  Apply control measures when evidence of infestation is
first noted.

-End-
-Title-
Lilac Borer
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Lilac Borer

Lepidoptera:  Sesiidae, Podosesia syringae (Harris)

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Lilac and ash.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  The base of infested stems and canes become
swollen and the bark is cracked and broken away from the wood.  Canes
suddenly wilt and show fine sawdust-like borings extruding from holes in
the bark.  Plants may be copletely destroyed if uncontrolled.

IDENTIFICATION:  The larvae are pure white worms with brown heads.  The
adult has clear wings and is wasp-like in appearance.  The fore wings are
brown or chocolate color and the hind wings are clear with a dark border.
The moth is about 1" long with a wing span of 1 1/2 inches.

LIFE HISTORY:  The winter is passed as an immature larvae in the stem of
lilac and ash near the surface of the soil.  Feeding and continued
development begins in early spring and completed by early summer.  It then
pupates in the stems and in three weeks emerges as the adult.  (late June
or early July).  Oviposition occurs shortly after emergence and mating.
The eggs are laid about the base of lilac canes or on ash stems.  The
hatching larvae bore into the host and become half grown by cold weather.
One generation per year.

CONTROL:  Complete coverage by spraying or painting infested plants with
lindane for homeowners or endosulfan for commercial growers will give
satisfactory control.  Heavily infested plants should be cut and burned
during the fall and winter periods.

-End-
-Title-
Locust Borer
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Locust Borer

Coleoptera:  Cerambycidae, Megacyllene robiniae

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Black locust.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Larvae tunnel in trunk and larger branches of live
trees.  Most damaging on younger trees during dry seasons.  They attack
healthy young trees boring into the heart and sapwood of stems and
branches.  Young larvae feeding in the spring cause bleeding at the site
of the injury.  Wet spots are present on the bark.

IDENTIFICATION:  Adult overall color is black with yellow markings.  Most
characteristic mark is the W-shaped yellow mark on the first pair of
wings.  Adults prominent in fall feeding on goldenrod pollen.

LIFE HISTORY:  Very small larvae pass the winter in the inner bark of the
host.  In early spring they begin development moving into the sap and
heart woods.  Maturity is obtained about midsummer and a pupal cell is
excavated.  The adults emerge about the first of September.  They are
extremely active and may be found actively feeding on goldenrod and
associated plants.  As with the Painted hickory borer feeding is required
for oviposition.  The eggs are laid in cracks and crevices of the bark,
they hatch and the young larvae bore into the inner bark next to the
sapwood before the approach of cold weather.

CONTROL:  Heavily infested trees should be destroyed.  Locust borers can
be controlled by applying a drenching spray of lindane in early September
or late August.  One application may protect the trees for two or three
years.  Applications applied in early spring also may be effective in
killing larvae before they tunnel into the wood.  High dilution rates are
required; see V.P.I. recommendations.

REMARKS:  Older trees are not damaged and younger trees 6 inches in
diameter and over are seldom bothered.

-End-
-Title-
Lesser Peach Tree Borer
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Lesser Peach Tree Borer

Lepidoptera: Sesiidae, Synanthedon pictipes

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Peach, plum, cherry, etc.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Very similar to that of the peach tree borer but
it attacks the upper part of the tree and its branches.  Frequently masses
of resin are found in the crotches of trees.  Damaging stage - larvae.

IDENTIFICATION:  Larvae are white with brown heads, 1/2 - 3/4" long.  The
adults are metallic blue-black with pale yellow markings on abdomen.

LIFE HISTORY:  The partially grown larvae overwinter in the inner bark of
the tree.  As with the peach tree borer the larvae vary in size because of
the long oviposition period.  The larvae start feeding early in the
spring, the larger larvae pupating by late April, the smaller by late
June.  Pupation occurs close to the surface of the abark, the exit hole
covered by a thin silken web.  Just prior to emergence the pupae push
themselves out of the cocoon and practically out of the burrow, emergence
occurring during most of the summer.  Oviposition takes place during the
summer and early fall in the cracks and crevices of the bark.  The
hatching larvae bore into the bark and begin development prior to cold
weather.  One generation per year.

CONTROL:  Although spraying or painting of the infested tree with lindane
in September or October give the best results, it may also be applied in
April.  In heavy infestations removal of the plant may be best.  Not only
does this remove a possible source of infestation but it also removes the
source of attractant.  All branches and trees removed should be burned and
all wounds and injuries to trees should be cared for.  Endosulfan can be
used by commercial spraymen and nurserymen.

-End-
-Title-
Magnolia Soft Scale
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Magnolia Soft Scale

Homoptera:  Coccidae, Neolecanium carnuparuum

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Magnolia

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Heavy infestations cause stunting of twigs and
undersize leaves, and trees are visibly weakened.  Small trees may be
killed.  Large trees lose branches and tree shape may become irregular.

IDENTIFICATION:  Female ranges from dull grayish brown to dark brown or
smoky in color.  Scale has a varnish-like appearance.  Some specimens
appear covered with a powdery wax material.  Females are hemispherical and
about 1/2" in diameter.

LIFE HISTORY:  The overwintering scale begins feeding in late spring or
early summer and matures by early August.  The females which are
parthenogenetic give birth to living young in late August.  The old adults
then fall from the plant.  The crawlers soon settle and feed on plant
juices.  They develop to 2nd instar before cold weather and overwinter in
this stage.

CONTROL:  Dormant oils may be sprayed in March or April prior to bud
opening.  Sprays for crawlers may also be applied in late August and
repeated 10-14 days later.

REMARKS:  Contro of crawlers is usually easier and in most cases gives
more effective results.

-End-
-Title-
Maple Gall Mites
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Maple Gall Mites

Acarina:  Eriophyidae, Eriophyes spp.

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Silver, red, and sugar maple

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Growths in discreet gall formations are incited by
the feeding of adult mites on newly developing foliage.  Several species
of mites are involved:  green or red maple bladder gall on silver and red
maple; green to tan maple spindle gall on sugar maple; and red maple
erineum gall on silver and red maple.

IDENTIFICATION:  Not an insect, nor a typical spider mite, these mites are
seen with difficulty even through a 10X magnifier.  They are carrot-shaped
or worm-like, whitish or orange, and have 2 pairs of very short legs.

LIFE HISTORY:  Adult mites become active very early in spring as buds
begin to open.  As new leaves unfold, mites begin to feed.  Teh leaf
tissue at that point grows out from the upper surface to form a gall
gradually, enclosing the mite.  As the leaves become full size, the mites
in the numerous galls lay eggs which hatch in a very short time.  Hundreds
of mites develop, and leave the galls through the opening on the underside
of the leaf blade to crawl to newly developing leaves.  By the time new
growth on the plant ceases, little mite activity occurs until the next
spring.

CONTROL:  There is little that can be done to prevent maple gall mites.
Sprays have some lessening effect, but little damage is caused to the
plant even in severe infestations.  Control is hardly worthwhile.  Lime
sulfur can be used as a spray before leaf buds open, but while flowers are
blooming.  Caution: lime sulfur causes severe staining of white paints,
woodwork, and stonework.

REMARKS:  This is probably one of the most common inquiries received by
diagnosticians because the galls are highly conspicuous and tree owners
are uncertain of the extent of spread and the seriousness of the problem.

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-Title-
Mimosa Webworm
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Mimosa Webworm

Lepidoptera:  Glyphipterygidae, Homadaula anisocentra

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Honey locust and Mimosa

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Larvae feed on the leaf surfaces.  The foliage is
usually skeletonized.  The lower epidermis is usually entirely destroyed.
Leaves die and turn dull gray on mimosa; brown, as if fire-scorched on
honey locust.  Leaves and flowers are webbed together as larvae feed and
develop.  Usually the entire tree is involved with larvae scattered here
and there throughout the foliage.  Leaflets from different leaves often
are webbed together.  Repeated attacks seriously weaken trees,
occasionally leading to death of some trees.

IDENTIFICATION:  Larvae are grayish to dark brown, sometimes tinged with
rose or pink and are 1/2" - 1" long.  Five white stripes run the length of
the body.  The larvae are extremely active, wriggle violently, and drop on
silk strands when disturbed much like many leaf-rollers.  The adult moth
may seldom be seen, but has about 1/2" wing span.  Wings are gray with
silver sheen and black dots.

LIFE HISTORY:  Moths appear in June and lay eggs on mimosa flowers and
foliage.  The larvae feed gregariously within a web spun over flowers and
leaves.  In midsummer larvae descend to the ground on silken threads and
spin cocoons in cracks in bark or in ground cover.  The webbing is most
conspicuous in August from the 2nd brood.  Second generation pupae
overwinter in crevices on tree trunks or protected by soil cover or
litter.  There is considerable overlap of generations.

CONTROL:  Since many eggs are laid initially and the young larvae begin to
feed extensively, trees should be watched for the earliest signs of
feeding, in June.  Larvae are more difficult to control when larger and
webbing is extensive.  Adult moths are active over a period of time, so
new eggs may be laid after effects of earlier sprays have dissipated.  See
C.S.  112, C.S. 143 for treatments.

REMARKS:  Sunburst honeylocust is reported to be most susceptible with
Moraine, Skyline, and Shademaster less so, although damaged severely.  It
is helpful to keep leaf and other debris raked up under host trees.  Honey
locust is more if not as susceptible as mimosa.

-End-
-Title-
Obscure Scale
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Obscure Scale

Homoptera:  Diaspididae, Melanaspis obscura

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Oaks, chestnut, and pecan

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Insects feed on plant juices by means of long,
hollow, needle-like mouthparts inserted into the tissue of the host.  Slow
progressive killing of infested twigs and stems results.  Heavy
infestation may cause death of tree.  Damaging stages-nymphs and adults
(female).  Plant parts attacked--twigs, stems, branches, and trunks.

IDENTIFICATION:  Insect lives under small circular gray cover up to 1/25th
of an inch in diameter.

LIFE HISTORY:  Most eggs hatch in July.  Crawlers settle usually within an
hour.  If the crawler is a male it will develop like the female early in
its life, but during the spring male scales form what is known as a pupal
stage and from this emerges a tiny two-winged insect capable of flight.
After mating with the female, the male dies.  Adult females remain under
cover and lay eggs.  One generation per year.  Overwintering stages -
second instar males and females.  On pin oak in Maryland.

CONTROL:  Superior dormant oil at 4%.  Crawler sprays - either carbaryl or
malathion should be applied in July.  The crawler stage extends over an
extended period, but there is a peak of emergence in mid to late July.

REMARKS:  A deadly insect for oaks!  On white oaks the crawler stage
occurs about one month later than on the red oak group.

-End-
-Title-
Oystershell Scale
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Oystershell Scale

Homoptera:  Diaspididae, Lepidosaphes ulmi (Linnaeus)

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Dogwood, elm, hickory, poplar, apple, etc.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Bark become cracked and scaly, trees loose vigor,
foliage is dwarfed and spotted with yellow.  In severe infestations may
kill plant.

IDENTIFICATION:  Scale cover resembles small oyster shell.  The adults are
usually clustered together and in severe infestations may cover the bark
of infested branches completely.

LIFE HISTORY:  Eggs laid in late fall, 40-150 per female.  Hatching occurs
in late spring.  Crawlers move around 1-2 hours to 1-2 days before
settling.  The scales are white in color at first but become brown with
maturity.  They mature about the middle of July, mate, and lay eggs.  This
second generation develops and by late fall they lay the eggs which
overwinter for the spring generation.

CONTROL:  Sprays should be applied at time of crawler hatch and emergence
from the old females, in mid-late May and again in late July oe early
August.

REMARKS:  Populations tend to congregarte on one or a few branches or on
entire tree, seldom a few scales scattered over the host.

-End-
-Title-
Peach Tree Borer
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Peach Tree Borer

Lepidoptera:  Aegeriidae, Sanninoidea exitiesa

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Peach, cherry plum, prune, nectarine, apricot, and
ornamental shrubs.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Borer holes exude masses of gum with bits of frass
and sawdust.  Infestations occur on the trunk from 1-2 feet above ground
to 2-3 inches below ground.  Damaging stage - larvae.

IDENTIFICATION:  The adult is a blue-black moth with clear hind wings and
an orange band on the abdomen.  They are very active in the daytime.  The
larvae are white with a brown head, and measure from 3/5 - 1" length.

LIFE HISTORY:  The overwintering larvae become active in the spring as
conditions warm up.  The larvae vary in size because of the long
oviposition period.  Pupation begins in late May and June, and adult
emergence starts in late June or early July and may continue until the
latter part of September and sometimes in October.  Females lay 200-300
eggs on the trunks of trees or in cracks in the soil within inches of the
trunk.  They are attracted to previously infested trees and to those trees
which have been injured and not cared for.  The larvae hatch and burrow
into the bark of the tree and feed during the late summer and fall,
gradually penetrating deeper as they develop.

CONTROL:  Spray application during the first weeks of July and again three
weeks to a month later.  Lindane is recommended for homeowner.  Commercial
recommendations suggest endosulfan (thiodan) for nurserymen and custom
spray specialists.  Control is complicated by the long period
(July-September) when individual adults may emerge.

REMARKS:  DDT was especially effective on clear-wing moth borers, but is
no longer available.

-End-
-Title-
Pine Bark Aphid
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Pine Bark Aphid

Homoptera:  Adelgidae (Chermidae), Pineus strobi

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Eastern white pine, Scotch pine, Austrian pine, and
occasionally other pines.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Damage is not conspicuous until very large
populations build up or moderate populations have been present for several
seasons. Injury to bark tissues results in shorter needle growth, shorter
shoot growth, fewer needles, and a general weakened unhealthy appearance
of trees.  Very yound to very old trees are commonly infested.  Plants
parts attacked:  needle bases, twigs, trunk.  Damaging stages: nymphs and
adults.

IDENTIFICATION:  The aphids are seldom seen without closely examining the
twigs or bark with a hand lens.  They are less than 1/16" long, reddish,
and typical chermid (adelgid) aphids.  When eggs are laid cottony masses
of wax are produced to cover or mix with the eggs.  The cottony wax is
very conspicuous even at a distance, and occurs in bark crevices and at
the bases of the needles.  Eggs are reddish or purplish brown.

LIFE HISTORY:  Overwintering nymphs spend the winter in cottony masses in
crevices of the bark.  After some feeding in the spring they lay eggs and
the waxy masses become more prominent.  Hatching occurs in mid to late
May.  Several generations occur until fall.  Egg laying peaks are usually
accompanied by the production of cottony masses.  However, there is
considerable overlap in generations.  The precise development of the
aphids through the season needs more study to determine detailed habits.
There are winged and non-winged females.  Non-winged females are
continually produced in each generation and remain on the same tree.
Winged females migrate to infest new trees.

CONTROL:  Control is difficult with insecticides because of the heavy
deposits of wax and the presence of eggs which are not susceptible to
sprays.  It is desirable to use forceful sprays when treating for pine
bark aphid.  Light mists are probably not very effective.  Malathion and
lindane are recommended.  However, carbaryl (Sevin) may be highly
effective also, applications should be applied in April, late June, and
mid-August.

REMARKS:  a related species, Adelges tsugae, occurs on hemlock in the
Richmond area and Danville.  Related species cause galls on spruce and
cottony masses on needles of douglas fir (Adelges abietis and A.
cooleyi).  These are not common in Virginia.

-End-
-Title-
Pine Needle Scale
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Pine Needle Scale

Homoptera:  Diaspididae, Phenaeaspis pinifoliae

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Scotch, mugho, Austrian Pine; also present but seldom
damaging on Eastern White Pine, Norway Spruce, and some other condifers.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Damage is not apparent until large populations
have been present for more than 1 or 2 seasons.  trees are stunted, gow
slowly, have short needles and shoots.  Occasionally the feeding of scales
produces chlorotic, yellowish flecks no the needles, but normally this is
not apparent.  Heavily infested plants are seriously weakened and may be
in a state of decline.

IDENTIFICATION:  Scale covers are about 1/8" long, white, elongate, narrow
in front and broad in back.  Eggs under the scale covers are purplish in
color.  Crawlers and settled nymphs are reddish brown.  Females are
reddish in color beneath the white scale covers.

LIFE HISTORY:  The hatching period is relatively short (7-10 days) in mid
May and again in mid to late July.  The first generation crawlers settle
on old needles, since new growth is not fully developed until later.
Second generation crawlers settle primarily on the current year's growth.
Females produce 5-30 reddish purple eggs.  Although the number of eggs
laid is relatively small, two generations a year pemits rapid buildup of
infestations.  In areas where infestations are large, lady beetle
(especially the twice-stabbed lady beetle) is an effective predator.

CONTROL:  Sprays of malathion or diazinon are effective if applied after
most eggs have hatched.  Carbaryl and dimethoate are effective if applied
as eggs begin to hatch, not if applied later.  Experience has shown that
treatments for the summer generation may be more effective than the first.
 Control may be applied at either time.

REMARKS:  Pine needle scale can be a serious pest of Christmas trees as
well as ornamental trees and shrubs.  Crawlers are blown by the wind and
can be carried on birds.

-End-
-Title-
Pine Sawyers
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Pine Sawyers

Coleoptera:  Cerambycidae, Monochamus sp.

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Pine, spruce, and balsam fir.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  They are secondary infestors whose main damage is
disfiguring wood by larval boring and tunneling in felled trees and usable
trees which are weakened or dying from other causes.  Plant parts attacked
  trunk.  Damaging stage - larvae.

IDENTIFICATION:  The adults are large cylindrical beetles, black,
brownish-black, or reddish brown, mottled with whitish or grayish
pubescence.  The thorax bears a prominent spine on each side.  The larvae
are elongate, cylindrical, and have large gnawing mandibles.  The larvae
are legless.

LIFE HISTORY:  Adult appearance coincides with the pollen release by the
host plants.  Shortly thereafter they begin attacking killed and felled
trees, gnawing pits through the bark, and inserting from 1 to several eggs
in each pit.  Upon hatching, the larvae bore beneath the bark and mature
between 40-60 days.  At this time the larvae enter the wood and make a
deep U-shaped cell through the sap and heartwood.  The entrance is plugged
with frass, and the opposite end enlarged into a pupal cell.  The larvae
pupates the following spring or early summer and the adult emerges the
same summer.

CONTROL:  Sanitation and prompt actions are the best controls against
these borers.  Felled timber should be removed from the woods as soon as
possible.  Secondly, the bark should be removed from the logs to prevent
infestation.  Thirdly, logs may be sprayed thoroughly if storing is
required.

REMARKS:  Adults are attracted to the smell of various materials with
resin bases; turpentine, paints, etc., and are occasionally thought to be
emerging from homes.

-End-
-Title-
Psocids
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Psocids

Psocoptera:  Psocidae

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Maple and boxelder, primarily.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Damaging stages - none.  Location of the plant -
bark.

IDENTIFICATION:

LIFE HISTORY:  In mid-summer, usually starting in late June, very large
clusters of brown, soft-bodied, winged insects about 1/4 inch long may be
seen moving in masses on the bark of trees.  Characteristically, when
disturbed, the whole mass appears to move at once.  This insect is
commonly known as the bark psocid (pronounced so'-sid).  Maple and
boxelder are the most common plants which bark psocids inhabit.  They may
be found on other plants as well.  No damage is ever caused since the
psocids merely congregate when they reach the adult stage to feed on
lichens and bark.  Prior to their appearance on the trees, they live among
ground debris and plant liter.  They are known to feed only on decaying
organic matter.  Therefore they are a curiosity and present no real
problem other than a general nuisance.

CONTROL:  If bark psocids are objectionable, they may be destroyed by an
insecticide.  Aerosol space sprays directed on the insect masses will
control the infestation.  Water sprays or dusts of malathion, may be used
effectively.  Use 4 tbsp. of 50% wettable powder, Malathion 25% or 1 tbsp.
of 57% EC per gallon.

-End-
-Title-
Pine Tortoise Scale
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Pine Tortoise Scale

Homoptera:  Coccidae, Toumeyella numismaticum

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Hard pines - Scotch, Jack, Austrian, and Virginia.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Foliage drops, needles usually shorter and may
kill tree over period of years - most damaging on seedlings and young
saplings.

IDENTIFICATION:  Reddish-brown, convex, and oval.  All stages attack stems
of plants.

LIFE HISTORY:  These overwintering immatures mature by early June.  Each
female may lay 500 eggs, the crawlers appear from mid-June to early July.
The males develop quickly and mate soon after emerging then die.  After
mating, the females continue to develop and overwinter in this condition.
Overwintering stage second instar.  One generation per year.

CONTROL:  Heavily fed upon by predators and parasites.  Two sprays 10-14
days apart are recommended during crawler emergence early in June.

REMARKS:  Has a wide range from Canada to the Gulf, and depending on
weather conditions a second generation may be produced.

-End-
-Title-
Redheaded Ash Borer
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Redheaded Ash Borer

Coleoptera:  Cerambycidae, Neoclytus acuminatus

PLANTS ATTACKED:  All dying or recently killed hardwoods, especially oak,
ash, hickory, and hackberry.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Young larvae feed under the bark but later enter
the heart and sap wood and completely destroy it.  Plant parts attacked:
trunk and main limbs.  Damaging stages:  larvae.

IDENTIFICATION:  Adults are elongate, cylindrical, and slender.  They are
reddish brown with yellow cross bands on the wing covers.  The larvae are
cylindrical and white in color and the body is moderately hairy.

LIFE HISTORY:  The adults emerge in June.  They feed, mate, and lay eggs
in the cracks and crevices of the bark.  These eggs hatch and the young
larvae bore into the bark and feed between the bark and sapwood 4-6 weeks.
 They then enter the sap and heart wood and completely destroy it.  At
maturity they construct a pupal cell near the surface of the wood and
pupate in early spring.

CONTROL:  Control procedures are not necessary since only dying or cut
wood is attacked.

REMARKS:  This is often a household nuisance pest since adults may emerge
from fuel logs.

-End-
-Title-
Round-headed Apple Tree Borer
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Round-headed Apple Tree Borer

Coleoptera:  Cerambycidae, Saperda candida

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Service berry, thorn apple, mt. ash, and many fruit
trees.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  The larvae feeds between the bark and wood for a
year, then bores into the wood, riddling the base of the tree with
tunnels.  Much frass is exuded through holes at the base of the plants.

IDENTIFICATION:  Adult, about 20mm long, is brown with two white stripes
running the entire length of the body connecting on the head.  The
underside of the body is white.  The larvae are brownish-white,
cylindrical, and legless.

LIFE HISTORY:  The adults are seen in early summer.  They fly about from
tree to tree depositing eggs in small scars gnawed at the base of trees.
Upon hatching, the larvae bore into the bark and feed beneath it for one
year.  They then bore into the wood, riddling the base with large
excavations.  This continues for 2 years, the larvae then pupate in early
spring and emerge in early summer.  One generation every three years.
Overwinter as larvae.

CONTROL:  Small amounts of recommended materials should be placed in the
borer holes and then plugged with putty or mud.  In areas where borers are
numerous spraying or painting plants is effective.

REMARKS:  This pest is serious on ornamentals, and young plants which are
attacked may be blown over by heavy winds because of the severe tunneling
by these larvae.

-End-
-Title-
Tarnished Plant Bug
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Tarnished Plant Bug

Hemiptera:  Miridae, Lygus lineolaris

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Vegetables, fruits, and flowers (dahlias and saters,
chrysanthemums, marigolds, zinnia, and many others).

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Nymphs and adults puncture the terminal shoots
beneath the flower bud and inject a poison which usually causes the flower
to wilt and die.  Feeding on topmost leaves causes leaf spotting and a
general bronzing effect.

IDENTIFICATION:  The adult is a light brown insect, variously spotted
about 1/4" long.  The spots of white, yellow, and black give the insect a
tarnished appearance, but there is a clear yellow triangle, marked with a
black dot on the lower third of each side.

LIFE HISTORY:  The adults and older nymphs (Forbes, 1884) hibernate under
leaf litter and rocks.  These individuals become active during the first
warm days of spring.  They feed on early buds of their host plant, but
breed in grasses.  Eggs are generally laid on the midrib of leaves and
sometimes into the buds of the plant.  Ten days later, the eggs hatch.

CONTROL:  Carbaryl and malathion have been recommended, but probably are
only partially effective.  Plant bugs are active and move about freely.
Feeding injury can occur as soon as effectiveness of sprays dissipates.
DDT was the most effective control, but is no longer available.  Carbaryl
is preferred over malathion.

REMARKS:  Minor plant bug injury is tolerable, although unsightly.
Controls are necessary for severe infestations.

-End-
-Title-
Tulip Tree Leaf Miner (Sassafras Weevil)
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Tulip Tree Leaf Miner (Sassafras Weevil)

Coleoptera:  Curculionidae, Odontopus calceatus

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Yellow poplar, sassafras, and magnolia.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Rice-shaped holes, about 1/16" result from adult
feeding.  Mines, usually two per leaf are formed by larval feeding.  If
they are both on the same side of midrib, one is extensive, and the other
dwarfed.  If on opposite side of midrib, both mines develop normally.

IDENTIFICATION:  Small, blackish weevil, short and stubby, about 3/16"
long.

LIFE HISTORY:  Before bud break, weevils attack swelling buds and make
puncture-like feeding marks.  Mating and oviposition occur in May and
early June.  The eggs are placed in a 1/4" section of midrib on the
underside of leaves.  This destroys that section of the midrib, causing
the leaf, in many cases to break over.  The newly hatched larvae move from
the midrib into the mesophyll, their boring action accentuating the midrib
damage.  The larvae pupate in infested area of mine.  The first adults
emerge in early June.  The weevils then feed heavily ont he leaves and by
mid-summer, enter a period of aestivation, which is continuous though
diapause in winter.  Adults overwinter in leaf litter.  One generation per
year.

CONTROL:  Adults can be controlled in July with carbaryl.  Treatments
during May may be helpful in preventing oviposition.  Larvae in mines can
be controlled with dimethoate applied during June.

REMARKS:  This has not been a common or widespread pest in Virginia,
although it has been serious in West Virginia, Ohio, and western
Pennsylvania.

-End-
-Title-
Tulip tree scale
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Tulip tree scale

Homoptera:  Coccidae, Toumeyella liriodendri (Gmel)

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Linden, tulip poplar, magnolia.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE:  Causes weakened condition of plant and reduces
vigor and growth.  Heavy infestations may kill trees, young trees and
branches on older trees.  Plant parts attacked - leaves and bark.  Damage
occurs through all stages.

IDENTIFICATION:  Female hemispherical and dark chocolate brown in color.
Usually symetrical but shape varies in crowded populations.

LIFE HISTORY:  Immature stages complete development in spring, mature, and
give live birth in late August.  The old females then fall from the plant.
 The young develop to the second instar and then become dormant until the
following spring.  One generation per year.  Overwintering stage - 2nd
instar.

CONTROL:  Sprays should be applied in late August and two weeks later for
crawlers or in late March or early April with superior dormant oil for
over-wintering immatures.

REMARKS:  Large amounts of honeydew secretions are present with this group
of scales.

-End-
-Title-
Twig Cutters
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Twig Cutters

Twig Girdler and Twig Pruner

PLANTS ATTACKED: Hickory, persimmon, elm, poplar, gum, basswood,
honeylocust, dogwood, and some fruit trees.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE: The Twig Girdler is found in the Eastern States.
Late in the summer or early in the fall these beetles appear and feed on
the thin bark of twigs before laying their eggs.  The adult female
girdles branches of the host tree by cutting a circular incision through
the bark and deep into the wood.  The twigs or branches so girdled range
from 1/4 inch to 1 1/2 inches in diameter.  In the girdled portions the
eggs are deposited in small scars which the female beetles gnaw through
the bark.  These branches soon die, and most of them fall to the ground.
Until the middle of the following summer the larvae feed in the wood,
loosely filling the mine with frass, although much of the frass falls
out.  The pupal cell is firmly walled with fibrous frass.  These beetles
become so numerous at times that trees are badly deformed, dozens of
branches often being cut from a single tree.  Young hickory seedlings
are frequently cut off near the ground.

The Twig Pruner severs the twig as a larva by feeding within the twig,
hollowing out part of it, cutting the edge off cleanly and leaving the
bark irregularly broken.  There is usually no evidence of egg punctures
or feeding scars, twigs are girdled from within making a part of the
stem hollow.  Shade and park trees are often so severely pruned by this
insect that the shape and appearance of the tree is altered.  It is not
unusual to see the ground thickly strewn with these severed twigs.

LIFE HISTORY: Twig Girdler - Until the middle of the following summer
the larvae feed in the wood, loosely filling the mine with frass,
although much of the frass falls out.  The pupal cell is firmly walled
with fibrous frass.  One year is required to complete the development,
but in more northern localities many of the larvae feed through the
second year before pupating.  A high mortality occurs in the larval
stage, this resulting from the fact that there are too many borers in
the same twig or from excessive drying of the branches.

Twig Pruner - Eggs are deposited near the tip of the twigs in the axil
of a leaf.  The young larva mines down the stem, increasing in size as
it goes.  Late in the summer it severs the branch by several concentric
cuts from the center outward leaving the thin bark.  Infested branches
1/4 to 2 inches in diameter break with the wind and fall to the ground.
In the fall within the stem the larva secretes itself between two wads
of fibrous frass where it pupates the following spring or fall.

CONTROL: Twigs or stems girdled by any of several species of insects
causing this type of damage usually contain the borer in the severed
portion of the twig.  Gathering and burning of the girdled twigs is the
most satisfactory means of preventing further damage, provided it is
thoroughly done and extended some distance in the surrounding area.
This form of control, however, is of very little value if the trees are
growing adjacent to wood lots where these girdlers are abundant.

Spraying has not shown much promise for control of these species.

-End-
-Title-
Virginia Pine Sawfly
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Virginia Pine Sawfly

Diprionidae:  Neodiprion pratti pratti

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Virginia (scrub) pine primarily; but also short leaf and
loblolly pines.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE: Defoliation of needle just prior to new growth
and shoot development.

IDENTIFICATION: Mature larvae are usually light green, with four
gray-to-black stripes running their full length.  The head capsule is
shiny black.

LIFE HISTORY: Eggs begin to hatch in early April.  They feed on the pine
needles and grow and molt to darker and darker shades of lateral
stripes.  They pupate in May. The adults emerge from the last week in
October to the first week in November.  The males are quite active,
while the female usually sits quietly on a needle and waits for the
male.  After mating, the female begins to lay eggs in pine needles with
her "saw-like" ovipositor.  Eggs overwinter in pine needles.

CONTROL: Where infestations are known to be present, it may be
worthwhile to spray trees with carbaryl in mid-April.  It may be
difficult to predict the severity of populations in a given year.

REMARKS: Spraying is probably necessary only on high-value ornamental
trees and in commercial forests.

-End-
-Title-
Wax Scale (Ceriferus Waxscale)
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Wax Scale (Ceriferus Waxscale)

Homoptera: Coccidae, Ceroplastes ceriferus

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Well over 50 hosts, especially Japanese and Chinese
hollies, pyracantha, spirea, ivy, hemlock, euonymus, and boxwood.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE: Infestations seldom kill plants directly, but
seriously weaken them, reduce growth, and cause decline.  Deposits of
honeydew give rise to rampant growth of the black sooty mold fungus.
Particularly on burford and Chinese holly.

IDENTIFICATION: From August until June adult female scales are large up
to 1/4", bright white, and circular.  On certain hosts they may reach
only 1/8-3/16", in diameter.  Dead scales remain on the twigs, but turn
dull and gray, and may be covered with sooty mold.  When wax is
initially produced, the scale looks like a cameo.  The next instar is
called the dunce cap stage due to the conical shape of the wax produced.

LIFE HISTORY: Females overwinter completely mature.  Oviposition begins
in late April.  It is 2-4 weeks or more before eggs hatch.  Hatching
varies from June 1 to 23, depending on geographic location in the state.
Development through the cameo and dunce cap instars take place during
late July and August.  Females are mature by late August or September.
Wax scales settle and remain on the twigs and stems.  Only where very
dense populations exist will crawlers settle on leaves and fruit.  There
frequently are variants in the populations - a few eggs hatching as late
as July.  Adult females lay 1500-2000 eggs on the average and may lay as
many as 3000 or more per female.

CONTROL: Carbaryl has given complete control, even if timing of sprays
is not precise.  Applications are best if made when eggs start to hatch.
In test plots one applications was as effective as 2 or 3 at two week
intervals.  Treatments anytime in June should give complete control if
thoroughly applied.  Malathion and diazinon give good results if applied
2 or 3 times at weekly intervals, but a few scales are likely to
survive.  In light infestations wax scale adults may be picked off the
plants manually.  During fall and early winter they can be dropped on
the ground.  During February, March, and April, they should be killed.

REMARKS: Wax scales on cut branches or picked from stems in late spring
will proceed to lay eggs.  Eggs may hatch and crawlers are likely to
infest plants.  Through 1971, wax scale has not been found west of
danville, Lynchburg, Charlottesville, or Loudoun County.

-End-
-Title-
White Peach Scale
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
White Peach Scale

Homoptera:  Diaspididae, Pseudaulacaspis pentagona

PLANTS ATTACKED:  Peach, locust, ash, pecan, mulberry, apple, etc.

DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE: Bark becomes encrusted with scales and scale
feeding weakens limbs and branches and may kill the tree if
uncontrolled.

IDENTIFICATION: Females usually circular but sometimes irregular in
crowded populations.  Scale cover is white, yellow white, or grayish
white in color.  The cover is convex and somewhat thickened.  The males
are more elongate and pure white in color.  Male covers are often more
easily noticed.

LIFE HISTORY: Eggs are laid in early spring and begin hatching 2 - 4
weeks later usually appearing in the first two weeks of May. A second
brood appears in early July and a third in early September.

CONTROL: Spray in early May, July, or September and ten-twelve days
later to catch crawlers.  Sprays should probably be made in two or all
of these time periods in heavy infestations to assure a more complete
control.  Superior oil sprays may be used in dormant seasons.

-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S

-Title-
MICROWAVE BASICS
 
LESSON 1
 
Publication 356-060
September 1983
 
Janice Woodard, Extension Specialist, Home Management and Equipment, Virginia
Tech
 
 
Assisted  by JoAnne  Barton,   Extension  Specialist,  Foods  and  Nutrition,
Virginia Tech
 
 
Acknowledgement:    Subject  matter  in this  publication  was  adapted  from
publications  of the  Florida,  Missouri,   Ohio,  and  New York  Cooperative
Extension Services and the Whirlpool Corporation.
 
-Lesson-
               MICROWAVE BASICS
-Doc-

     In 1945, while Dr. Percy L. Spencer was working on a radar experiment, a
chocolate bar melted in his pocket.   This  caused him to wonder if microwave
energy  could possibly  be used  for cooking.    His experiments  led to  the
development  of  microwave  cooking  for   mass-feeding  situations  such  as
hospitals and other institutions.  These first microwave ovens were large and
very expensive.   Not until 1967 were microwave ovens available that were the
right size  and price  to be practical  in a  consumer's home.    Since then,
interest in microwave cooking has soared,   resulting in the development of a
major segment of the appliance industry.

-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
How Microwaves Work

MICROWAVE BASICS
LESSON 1

-Doc-
 
     In order to understand how microwaves cook,  it's important to know what
microwaves are.    They are a  form of high-frequency  electromagnetic energy
similar to that which  powers a CB radio,  AM-FM radio,  a  TV,  or the radar
which detects speeding cars.   In the oven, microwaves are transmitted into a
small space rather than beamed over long distances.
 
     Microwaves produce energy.   Depending on the  density of the food,  the
microwaves penetrate food  3/4 to 2 inches  and cause the water  molecules in
the food to vibrate at extremely high rates of speed.  This  vibration causes
friction between the molecules and produces heat.   You can achieve a similar
result by rubbing your palms together  very briskly.   Cooking occurs
when the heat is transferred from the  hot outer layers to the uncooked inner
layers.  Traditional methods  of cooking rely on heat transferred  to food by
conduction or  convection;  these  are much  slower processes.    In general,
cooking  by microwaves  requires from  one-fourth  to one-half  the time  for
conventional cooking.
 
     Microwaves have three characteristics which affect their use in cooking:
 
     1)  When microwaves  hit metal they are reflected away  much as sunlight
from a mirror.   Therefore, standard utensils made of stainless steel,  iron,
and aluminum are  not usable.   However,  especially with  newer oven models,
there are some occasions where certain  metal containers or aluminum foil can
be used.   Before using metal containers or foil,  consult the manufacturer's
use  and care  manual  for your  oven  to  be sure  that  such practices  are
recommended for your oven model.   If you use a utensil containing metal,  be
sure that it is placed in the center of  the oven away from the walls and the
door to prevent arcing between the metal item and the oven wall.  When arcing
occurs you can see sparks.
 
     2)  Microwaves pass  through materials such as glass,   paper,  and many
plastics.   Foods should be cooked in utensils made of these materials.   The
utensils stay cool because they do not absorb the microwaves.
 
     3) Microwaves are absorbed by food.   Microwaves penetrate the food from
all directions,   generating heat  by agitating the  water,  fat,   and sugar
molecules.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Safety - MICROWAVE BASICS

LESSON 1

-Doc-
 
     Properly  used,   the  microwave  oven is  one  of  the  safest  kitchen
appliances.   The Bureau of Radiological Health (BRH), a part of the Food and
Drug Administration (FDA),  requires that microwave oven doors have 2 or more
interlocks so that  if one lock should  fail to shut off  the microwaves when
the door is opened,  another will  take over.   Another regulation limits the
amount of radiation that may be emitted  around the oven door to levels below
which there  are clearly  no harmful  effects.   The  limit is  one milliwatt
(1/1000 of a  watt)  per square centimeter measured 5  centimeters (2 inches)
from the oven door  when it leaves the factory,  and  5 milliwatts per square
centimeter during the life of the oven.
 
     The possibility of excessive microwave leakage is highly unlikely if the
manufacturer's use  and care instructions  are followed.   To  further assure
your safety:   be sure to check your  microwave oven for shipping damage when
it is delivered to  your home,  and keep the door seal  clean.   Never try to
close the door  with anything between it and  the oven cavity (such  as a pot
holder).   If  you are concerned that  your oven may have  excessive leakage,
contact an authorized  service center for your microwave  oven.   Some county
health department sanitarians also test microwave ovens for radiation leakage
upon request.
 
     Some use and care books neglect to  mention the possibility of burns and
fires that can result from microwave use.  Fires are not likely to occur, but
items can get hot enough to char, smoke, or even burst into flame.   This can
happen  when you're  handling  low (small)   loads such  as  drying herbs  or
freshening crackers.   A cup of water placed  in the corner of your oven will
help to  absorb excess microwave energy.    Burning can occur when  heat from
food transfers  to the  container.   Foods  high in  fat or  sugar should  be
handled carefully because of their affinity for microwave energy.
 
     As  with any  other  cooking,  use  caution when  removing  any type  of
covering or  lid;  steam  builds up  in the  container and  can cause  burns.
 
Always tilt  lids away from you  and leave a  space for steam to  escape when
using plastic  film covering.   Plastic  bags or  pouches must be  pierced to
prevent steam buildup and possible burns.

 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
     Review the safety precautions found in the use and care book for your
microwave oven.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Oven Cleaning - MICROWAVE BASICS

LESSON 1

-Doc-
 
     It is not  necessary to buy special  cleaners for your oven,   but it is
necessary to  clean it  regularly.   Because foods  do not  burn on  the oven
surfaces (except  in the case  of when a  browning element or  the convection
mode of  a microwave/convection  oven is used),   cleaning may  be neglected.
There are good reasons for making cleaning a routine:  1) food soil can cause
odors;  2)  it is  possible for food soil buildup to  interfere with the door
seal;  3)  microwaves  are attracted to food and do  not discriminate between
soil and tonight's roast, so excessive soil can slow cooking time.
 
     To clean your oven, simply wipe it with a paper towel,  or clean it with
a mild detergent in warm water and  a soft sponge or cloth.   Wipe frequently
around  the door  seals  of the  oven  and  the door  itself  to remove  food
particles.
 
     If food particles become stuck to the sides or bottom of the oven,  boil
a cup of water in the oven;  the steam from the boiling water will loosen the
dried particles so  they can easily be  wiped off.   Use a  nylon scrubber if
necessary, but do not use abrasive cleaners or commercial oven cleaners.
 
     To clean the glass shelf found in some microwave ovens, remove the shelf
and wash it with  warm water and detergent.   Do not  operate the oven unless
shelf is in place.   To remove stains from the ceramic oven floor, use baking
soda or a special ceramic glass cleaner.
 
     Odors can  be removed  by boiling one  part lemon  juice to  three parts
water in a measuring cup in the oven,  or placing a small dish of baking soda
in the  oven and leaving  the oven door ajar.    Removing food from  the oven
immediately after cooking will help avoid odor problems.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Getting Acquainted with Your Microwave Oven

MICROWAVE BASICS
LESSON 1

-Doc-
 
Output wattage or cooking power.   Generally,  the higher the wattage output,
the faster food will cook.   Larger  countertop models have an output wattage
of 600 to 720  watts.   Recipes in magazines and cookbooks  (other than those
that come with the microwave oven) typically are designed for use with models
having an output wattage of 600 to 650 watts.
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
 
What is the output wattage of your oven? _________________
 
If you  cannot find the answer to the  question by looking on the oven  name-
plate,  in the use and care booklet,  or recipe book for your  oven,  do this
test:
 
Heat 1 cup of  room temperature water for 2-1/2 to 3 minutes  on HIGH or 100%
power.   The water will be boiling at the end of this period if your oven has
an output wattage of 650 to 700.  If more time is required to bring the water
to a boil, you may need to extend the cooking time when using a recipe from a
source other than the cookbook for your microwave oven.*
 
*If you want  to calculate the output  wattage of your oven  more accurately,
see the method in the box on page 7.
 
Power levels or cooking speeds.  Variable power models have a full power set-
ting and one or more lower settings which  permit using less than 100% of the
power during cooking.   The lower the power setting,  the lower the
output wattage  in the oven  and the longer may  be the cooking  time needed.
But the  availability of variable power  levels increases the types  of foods
that can be successfully cooked.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Microwave/convection Ovens

MICROWAVE BASICS
LESSON 1

-Doc-
 
Settings for microwave/convection ovens differ  among brands.   Therefore you
will need  to rely on the  use and care  booklet and cookbook for  your model
until you  get familiar with its  operation.   Research at Virginia  Tech has
shown that  the microwave/  convection oven  generally cooks  food with  less
energy,  and in less time than the conventional range oven.   However,  there
were several foods  for which the microwave/convection oven  used more energy
than the conventional  range oven.   Overall,  the  microwave/convection oven
saved time,  but  broiled items and foods for  which the microwave/convection
oven was preheated took longer than those conventionally cooked.  The energy-
saving with  the microwave/convection oven was greater in broiling; time-sav-
ing was greater in roasting.
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
Make a  hot beverage (instant coffee  doesn't count)  in your  microwave oven
using a recipe in your microwave oven cookbook or the following recipe:
 
                                  Hot Cider
 
2 cups apple cider
3 cloves
1 inch stick of cinnamon
1 tablespoon brown sugar
 
Combine ingredients in  a 1-quart glass measuring cup.    Use the temperature
probe for your oven.   If you don't have a probe, microwave on HIGH for 3-1/2
to 4 minutes or until hot.  Stir halfway through the microwave time.   Remove
spices and serve.  Serves 2-3.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Cookbooks - MICROWAVE BASICS
 
LESSON 1

-Doc-
 
Start with the book which came with your microwave oven.   As you become fam-
iliar with microwave cooking, you can branch out to other sources of recipes,
and adapt your favorite dishes.
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
     Go to the public  library and/or bookstore and look at  the selection of
microwave oven cookbooks available.   Over 50  cookbooks in addition to those
prepared by microwave oven manufacturers are on the market today.  You should
be able to find cookbooks which suit your needs.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Interested in Buying a Microwave Oven

MICROWAVE BASICS
LESSON 1

-Doc-
 
     If you are considering buying a microwave oven, ask your local Extension
agent for the Virginia Cooperative Extension Service publication,  "Microwave
Ovens:  Guide for Shoppers."
 
     Please turn to page 7.
 
                         CALCULATING OUTPUT WATTAGE
 
     If you do not know the OUTPUT WATTAGE  of your oven,  write to the manu-
facturer for specification sheets, or use the following formula:
 
1. Fill a 4-cup glass measure with lukewarm tap water.   Take the temperature
   with a candy thermometer. ______degrees.
2. Remove thermometer.
3. Heat the water 2 minutes in your microwave oven on HIGH.   The temperature
   is _____degrees.
4. Subtract the first temperature from the second. ______degrees.
5. Multiply this figure by 17.5.  _____ X 17.5 = ______.
6. This figure is  the actual OUTPUT WATTAGE.   Compare this  with the OUTPUT
   WATTAGE quoted  by your  manufacturer (if available).    If the  number is
   higher or lower, how will you compensate in cooking?
 
______________________________________________________________
NOTE:
 
Many things can affect your answer.   If your answer was low and you are con-
cerned about it, check for the following things:
 
a. low input voltage
b. use of a heavily loaded
   circuit
c. inaccurate thermometer
d. wrong size container
e. read thermometer wrong or
   figured incorrectly
 
If, though, your answers are consistently low and/or your oven very slow, you
probably should contact your dealer.
 
              LET'S REVIEW
 
As you  studied this lesson,   you should have discovered  the answers 
to  the fol lowing questions:
 
1.  What happens when  microwaves come in
    contact with:
 
    a) metal?
 
    b) glass, paper, and some plastics?
 
    c) food?
 
2.  Name  two  things  a  microwave  oven
    owner can do to assure his/her safety
    (other  than  what  the  manufacturer
    does) when operating the oven.
 
3.  What is the most  important part of a
    microwave oven to keep clean?
        USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
 
             Your Questions
 
 
     If this  lesson and  the five  which
follow  raise  some  specific  questions,
please note  them on this page.    At the
end of the lesson series,  mail this page
to  your local  Extension  office and  we
will respond to your questions.
 
Brand            of             microwave
owned_________________________________________
 
Availability  of Variable  Power  _______
Yes  _______ No
 
Length  of   time  you  have   owned  the
oven___________________________
 
 
I want to know:
 
 
___________________________________________________________________
 
___________________________________________________________________
 
___________________________________________________________________
 
___________________________________________________________________
 
__________________________________________________________________
 
__________________________________________________________________
 
__________________________________________________________________
 
___________________________________________________________________
 
___________________________________________________________________
 
___________________________________________________________________
 
___________________________________________________________________
 
 
 
                                      Name ______________________
 
                                    Address______________________
 
                           Telephone Number ___________________
 
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
MICROWAVE TECHNIQUES
 
LESSON 2
 
Publication 356-061
September 1983
 
Janice Woodard, Extension Specialist, Home Management and Equipment, Virginia
Tech
 
Assisted  by JoAnne  Barton,   Extension  Specialist,  Foods  and  Nutrition,
Virginia Tech
 
Acknowledgement:    Subject  matter  in this  publication  was  adapted  from
publications  of the  Florida,  Missouri,   Ohio,  and  New York  Cooperative
Extension  Services,   the  Whirlpool Corporation,   and  the  Union  Carbide
Corporation.
 
-Lesson-
         MICROWAVE TECHNIQUES

-Doc- 

     Even though  each microwave oven is  different,  there are  some general
instructions for  use that  can be  applied to  all microwave  ovens.   These
general instructions will be covered in this lesson.
 
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Utensils - MICROWAVE TECHNIQUES
 
LESSON 2

-Doc-
                                  Section I
 
     This first section has to do with the types of utensils that can be used
in a microwave oven.   Think back to  Lesson One when we said that microwaves
had these three properties:  l)  they are reflected by metals;  2)  they pass
through glass, paper,  and many plastics;  and 3)  they are absorbed by food.
Let's look at the  second of these characteristics and see  how it relates to
microwave utensils.
 
     Microwaves pass through glass, paper, and many plastics.  
 
     Because of this characteristic,  food may be cooked or heated in serving
dishes,  on paper or china plates  (without metallic trim),  napkins or paper
towels, in glass measuring cups, or paper or foam plastic cups.   The utensil
does not get  hot in the same way  as in conventional cooking  or baking,  so
there is less sticking and clean-up is much easier.
 
     A word of  warning:   although the microwaves pass through  the glass or
paper product,  the heat from the food may be quite intense-- especially with
foods high  in fat or  sugar.   No  problem should arise  with heat-resistant
glass utensils,   glass-ceramic,  and  sturdy china.    However,  when  using
delicate china and paper  products,  limit the time food is  in the microwave
oven to 5 minutes or less.
 
     The use of plastic  utensils in the microwave oven is  a "maybe" kind of
situation.   Some plastics,  such as  made-for-microwave products can be used
for cooking almost  anything you might cook  in a microwave oven.    Look for
labels on plastic utensils indicating  their suitability for microwave usage.
Melamine plastic  (dinnerware)  should  not be used--it  absorbs some  of the
microwaves which may cause it to crack.  Foam cups are okay for short periods
of time; lightweight plastics such as cottage cheese and margarine containers
distort quite readily from the heat of the food.
 
     Some pottery or earthenware is suit-able for microwave oven use--some is
not.   A simple way of determining this is  to place a glass measuring cup of
water in the microwave oven.   Set an  empty cup of the questionable material
next to it, but not touching.   Set the microwave oven timer for 1 minute and
turn it on.   At the end of the minute,  the water in the cup should be warm;
the test item cool.    If the test item is warm,  this  is an indication that
there is a metallic substance in the glaze  or clay--it should not be used in
the microwave oven.  Some items within a matching set may vary, especially if
handmade.
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
Testing utensils for microwave use:   Follow  the above directions with a mug
or dish from your kitchen.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Shapes for Utensils - MICROWAVE TECHNIQUES
 
LESSON 2

-Doc-
 
     The most  efficient utensil shape for  microwave cooking is the  ring or
donut shape (a round unit with a  hole in the center).   The microwave energy
can enter the food from several angles--inside, outside, top,  and bottom for
faster,  more even cooking.    This shape is ideal for foods  which cannot be
stirred during cooking.
 
     The next  most acceptable shapes are  round and oval.   Foods  cook more
evenly in  these shapes than in  square or rectangular shaped  utensils whose
corners receive a greater concentration of energy  than the rest of the uten-
sil.   As a result the food in the  corners often overcooks and the center is
undercooked.
 
     Square or  rectangular shaped  utensils can be  used provided  they have
well-rounded corners at the top as well  as the bottom of the utensil.   Well
rounded corners reduce the concentration of energy and dehydration.
 
     The sides  of a utensil  should be as vertical  as possible to  keep the
depth of the food uniform.  A full 90 degrees is not necessary, but the sides
should  be as  steep as  possible.   Utensils  with sloping  sides should  be
avoided as the food  is less deep in the areas which  receive the most micro-
wave energy and may overcook.
 
     The depth of the utensil is important as well as its capacity.   A shal-
low utensil  exposes more food  surface to  the microwave energy  and permits
quicker and more  even cooking than does a deep  utensil.   However,  larger,
deeper utensils than are normally used for conventional cooking are necessary
to allow for the  vigorous action of foods which have a  great deal of liquid
such as sauces and puddings.  Usually a container large enough to hold double
the actual amount is recommended.
 
     A trivet or roasting rack should be  used with meats to elevate them out
of the juices to prevent stewing.   It is also recommended for steaming fresh
vegetables such as  asparagus and broccoli.    An alternative to  the trivet/
roasting rack is the ribbed bacon/roaster.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
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-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Covering Foods - MICROWAVE TECHNIQUES
 
LESSON 2

-Doc-
 
     Little evaporation  occurs during  microwaving.   But  a cover  holds in
steam,  keeps food moist and shortens the cooking time.   Paper coverings can
serve as spatter guards.
 
     In general,  foods which are  covered during conventional cooking should
be covered during microwaving.
 
     Glass covers to casseroles are always good.  Plastic wrap can be used to
cover dishes without covers.   A tight cover of plastic wrap may split during
microwaving.   Make an opening for excess  steam to escape.  Vent the plastic
wrap by rolling back one edge to form a narrow slot or opening, or by folding
in a pleat.
 
     A cooking  bag holds in steam  to tenderize meat.    Before microwaving,
remove any foil from  the bag and discard the metal twist  tie.   Tie the bag
loosely with string or a strip of plastic cut from the end of the bag.  Leave
a small space for steam to escape.  Place the bag in a cooking dish.
 
     Wax paper forms a loose cover.   Use wax  paper to hold in heat and pre-
vent spatters.
 
     A  dry paper  towel lets  steam escape  while it  prevents spatters  and
absorbs excess moisture.  Use a dry paper towel to cover bacon or foods which
are cooked uncovered but tend to spatter.  Paper towels absorb moisture trap-
ped between food and the oven floor.  They keep bread surfaces dry.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Cooking Times - MICROWAVE TECHNIQUES
 
LESSON 2

-Doc-
                                 Section II
 
     The second  section in  this lesson has  to do with  the amount  of time
required for food to cook.   It is  very important to realize that although a
recipe says to cook  something for a specified number of  minutes,  this time
is, at best, an estimation.  There are a number of factors that determine how
long it takes a particular item to cook.
 
1.  Temperature of the food.   This factor affects conventional cooking, too,
but we don't notice  it as much.   For most foods  (frozen vegetables are the
exception),  thawing  them before cooking in  the microwave will give  a more
evenly cooked product.
 
2.  Quantity of food.  As the quantity of food increases, so does the cooking
time.  The same number of microwaves enter the oven cavity no matter how much
food is there.  If all the microwaves are absorbed by one food item such as a
potato,  the cooking time is short,  but if there are several food items such
as potatoes,   the cooking  time will  be longer.  It  is generally
thought that quantities of food for 4 to  6 people (or less)  may be economi-
cally cooked in the microwave oven.  Quantities larger than that may actually
take more time and electricity than when cooked conventionally.
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
 
Food vs.  heating time:    Use a large,  clear glass mixing  bowl you know is
microwave safe.   Starting  with cold tap water,   pour 1 cup water  into the
bowl.   At full  power,  heat to boiling (when bubbles  appear).   Record the
time.  Repeat, emptying the water each time and adding water by cupfuls until
you have 4 cups  total.  Compare the heating time re- quired  for each of the
four amounts.
 
3.  Shape of food.   Uniformly thick foods cook most evenly.   Those that are
un-evenly shaped will require shielding with  aluminum foil to keep the thin-
ner, outer portions or corners from overcooking.
 
4.  Composition of food.   Microwaves are attracted to the moisture, fat, and
sugar molecules in food.   Generally,  moist food cooks more quickly than dry
food.   When fats and sugars are concentrated in foods of varied composition,
"hot spots" may  develop.   For example,  the  raisins or jelly filling  in a
sweet roll may become much hotter than the surrounding roll.
 
5.   Density of food.   Light,  porous items such as breads and pastries will
absorb microwave energy faster than compact items of the same size.
 
 
Other factors affecting cooking time include:
 
1.  Arrangement of food.  As has been discussed, the donut is the ideal shape
for cooking in a  microwave oven.   Keep this in mind  when arranging food in
the microwave  oven.  Remember that  microwaves are attracted  to the
outer edges or corners of the food first.   Always place the thicker,  larger
portions of food to the outside edges.  For example:  place broccoli stems or
the meaty portions of  drumsticks to the outside since they  take the longest
to cook.  Leave the center of the dish empty, if possible.
 
2.  Rotating and Stirring.   Microwaves are not always distributed equally in
all parts  of the oven.    In order for  the food to  cook as quickly  and as
evenly as possible,   it may need to  be stirred or rotated  1/4 turn halfway
through cooking.   The  use of a turntable in the  microwave oven may
help to  achieve even  cooking.   However,   the food  in the  center of  the
turntable may still need a little stirring.   Note:   Manufacturers are cons-
tantly improving  their microwave distribution  systems.   You may  find that
very little, if any, rotating or stirring is necessary with your oven.
 
3.  Heating Pattern of Your Microwave Oven
Standing time, carry-over cooking time, or heat equalization time.   This
is a very important  part of microwave cooking.   For a  period of time after
the microwaves stop penetrating the food, the food molecules continue to move
and create heat.   This  heat is conducted to the center of  the food to com-
plete the cooking process.   It is necessary to allow food to stand about 1/3
to 1/2  the cooking  time before  serving it  to allow  this process  to take
place.  An apple baked for 2-1/2 minutes will be firm when you take it out of
the oven.  After standing 1 minute, it will be soft and ready to eat.  Always
undercook food.   If, after the standing time, it needs additional cooking it
can be  returned to the  oven.   Not much can  be done to  salvage overcooked
food.   During the standing time period you  can keep the food inside or out-
side the oven.  Usually food should be kept covered or, depending on the type
of food, wrapped in aluminum foil.
 
 
After all this, it's easy to see why microwave cooking times are, at best, an
estimate.  Another way of determining cooking time is through the use of var-
ious sensors.  One of these is the temperature probe which automatically det-
ermines cooking  time by the temperature  of foods.   Another type  of sensor
regulates cooking time by reacting to the steam given off during cooking.  If
your  oven has  any system  for  automatically determining  the cooking  time
needed, follow the directions in the use and care booklet for your oven.

                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
     Carry-over cooking  or standing time:   Place  3 baking potatoes  in the
microwave oven.  Follow directions for time recommended for your model.  Take
the first potato out of the oven at the recommended time and wrap it in foil.
Take the  second potato out  at the same  time and  wrap it in  plastic wrap.
Continue to  cook the third potato  in the oven  until you think it  is done.
Let each stand for  5 minutes before comparing results.   Be  sure to compare
the appearance and texture of the baked potatoes.   Note:  Some people prefer
the texture of potatoes baked conventionally.   The hot, dry air of a conven-
tional oven  produces a  drier potato skin  than is  possible in  a microwave
oven.
 
 
 
                                LET'S REVIEW
 
 
     As you studied  this lesson,  you should have discovered  the answers to
the following questions:
 
1.  What is the most efficient utensil shape for microwave cooking?
 
2.  What is the purpose of standing time in microwave cooking?
 
3.  How can you tell whether a pottery utensil is safe for microwave
    cooking?
 
4.  What are two ways that users can counteract an uneven heating
    pattern in a microwave oven?
 
5.  Why will the raspberry jelly in a Danish roll be hotter than the
    rest of the roll after it has been heated in the microwave oven?
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
     Study the  effect of stirring on  food.   Prepare one of  the following:
basic white sauce, gravy, or dessert sauce.   Use a recipe from your cookbook
or you can try the following recipe:
 
                                 Lemon Sauce
 
1/2 cup sugar
1-1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 cup water
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
 
Combine sugar,  cornstarch and  salt in a 2 or 4-cup  measure or mixing bowl.
Stir in water; add butter.  Microwave at HIGH 4 to 6 minutes until mixture is
thick and clear,  stirring every 2 minutes.   Stir in juice and peel.   Serve
warm or cold.  Makes 1-1/2 cups sauce.
 
Source:  Basic Microwaving published by Publication Arts, Inc.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
MICROWAVING VEGETABLES AND FRUITS
 
LESSON 3
 
Publication 356-062
September 1983
 
Janice Woodard, Extension Specialist, Home Management and Equipment, Virginia
Tech
 
Assisted  by JoAnne  Barton,   Extension  Specialist,  Foods  and  Nutrition,
Virginia Tech
 
Acknowledgement:    Subject  matter  in this  publication  was  adapted  from
publications  of the  Florida,  Missouri,   Ohio,  and  New York  Cooperative
Extension Services and the Whirlpool Corporation.
 
 
-Lesson-
                  MICROWAVING VEGETABLES AND FRUITS
-Doc-

     A basic knowledge of  how various types of food react  to microwaves may
help you understand  why some foods taste better than  others when microwaved
and why some foods may need special attention.   In this lesson,  recipes are
given only to  illustrate a cooking principle.   Recipes  for specific dishes
can be found in  the myriad of microwave cookbooks available  at libraries or
wherever books are sold.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
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-State-
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-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Vegetables - MICROWAVING VEGETABLES AND FRUITS
 
LESSON 3

-Doc-
                                 VEGETABLES
 
 
     Superb!    Excellent!    Delicious!    These adjectives  are  the  usual
reactions when people  eat vegetables that have been cooked  in the microwave
oven.   Quick cooking  at the high power  setting seems to help  preserve the
bright colors and fresh flavors of most vegetables.   Very little water needs
to be  added--often the water  clinging to  leafy vegetables after  they have
been washed will  be sufficient moisture.   Although it's  more convenient to
add salt  before cooking,  don't.    Salt dehydrates and  toughens microwaved
vegetables, so if you add salt, do so after cooking.
 
     Generally,  a covering of some kind--lid,   wax paper or plastic wrap is
advised.  It helps  keep the moisture from evaporating;   also the vegetables
cook more evenly.   Often a vegetable's skin serves as a container--such as a
baked potato or  acorn squash.   Be sure  to pierce the skin  of these before
cooking--steam can build up inside and cause the item to burst.
 
     Arrange the "toughest,"  thickest part of vegetables  toward the outside
of the dish or cooking container where  they will cook faster.   For example,
broccoli stalks should  be placed toward the  dish edge and the  heads placed
toward the dish  center.   When cooking vegetables such as  whole potatoes or
individual squashes,  arrange them in a circle  instead of rows for more even
cooking.   Leave  a space  of about  1 inch  between them.    Turn individual
vegetables over and rearrange them halfway through the cooking time.
 
     Frozen vegetables may be cooked in their cardboard boxes--no need to add
additional water.  Just remember to remove part or all of the waxpaper cover-
ing and any seasoning packets. If you're using vegetables in boilable plastic
cooking pouches, slit the bag to allow steam to escape.   About 1-1/2 cups of
bulk-pack frozen  vegetables (home  or commercially frozen)   equals an  8 to
10-ounce package.
 
     Vegetables vary in  the amount of cooking time they  require.   The age,
texture,  freshness,  size,  shape,  temperature,  and variety can all affect
cooking time.   Whole vegetables will require  a slightly longer cooking time
than vegetables cut in pieces.   For fast, even cooking,  cut vegetables into
small uniformly-shaped pieces.
 
     Cooking times in most microwave  cookbooks result in just-tender vegeta-
bles.  If you  prefer vegetables cooked to the very-tender  stage,  time will
need to be increased.   Of course,  if  you prefer vegetables even less done,
time will  need to  be decreased.    Be careful  not to  overcook vegetables.
Allow for standing  or carry-over cooking time.   Keep  vegetables covered to
retain heat before serving.   In cooking  home frozen vegetables,  follow the
timing for commercially frozen vegetables in your microwave oven cookbook.
 
     Dried vegetables  like peas and  beans need  a long simmering  period to
become tender.    This can be  done in the  microwave oven with  the variable
power setting at simmer, but no time is saved.
 
     Note:   Corn, beans,  and other foods that have a skin-like covering may
"pop" in the microwave oven.   Such popping  shows up most often when heating
small quantities of the foods.   To avoid this problem, place another item in
the oven at  the same time such as a  cup of water,  set the oven  at a lower
setting or allow standing time during the heating period.
 
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
 
Prepare at least one fresh vegetable, one frozen vegetable, and one
 
                           Seasoned Vegetable Tray
 
 
3 tablespoons butter or margarine
1/4 teaspoon onion salt
1/8 teaspoon thyme
1/8 teaspoon chopped parsley or
     dried parsley flakes
1/2 pound fresh broccoli
1/2 small head cauliflower
l medium zucchini
1 medium tomato, cut into wedges
1/8 cup Parmesan cheese
 
1.  Combine butter,  onion salt,   thyme,  and parsley in a 1  cup measure or
    bowl.   Microwave  on HIGH for  20 to 45  seconds or until  melted.   Set
    aside.
2.  Trim and cut broccoli and cauliflower into florets.   Alternately arrange
    groups of the florets  around the edge of a 10-inch  serving platter with
    the flower ends toward the center of  the dish.   Slice zucchini and fill
    the center of the plate.  Cover with plastic wrap.
3.  Microwave on HIGH for 9 to 11 minutes or until vegetables are almost ten-
    der.  Drain off excess liquid.
4.  Arrange tomato wedges on vegetable platter.
5.  Pour butter mixture over vegetables and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.
6.  Microwave uncovered on HIGH for 1-1/2 to  2 minutes or until tomatoes are
    heated.
 
5 to 6 servings.
 
Variation:
 
Follow Seasoned Vegetable  Tray recipe as directed  except in step 2  place 2
packages (10 ounces each) Brussels sprouts on outside edge of a 10-inch round
dish, place 2 medium sliced yellow summer squash toward inside, and 1 can (16
ounces) small whole beets (drained) in middle.  Continue as directed in steps
3, 5, and 6.
 
 
Source:  Used with permission of The Tappan Appliance Division
 
Blanching Vegetables for Freezing
 
     Because of the  variable results obtained from using  microwave ovens to
blanch vegetables, Virginia Tech does not recommend this practice.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
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-State-
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-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Fruits - MICROWAVING VEGETABLES AND FRUITS
 
LESSON 3

-Doc-
 
                                   FRUITS
 
 
     Fruits are generally cooked covered.   Pierce the skins of fresh fruits,
or peel them  before cooking.   Cooking times are  approximations,  since the
age,  size,  and shape of fruits can affect the amount of cooking time.   The
amount of sugar and spices in fruit recipes can be adjusted as desired.
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
 
Prepare one fruit dish in the microwave oven using a recipe in your microwave
oven cookbook or the following recipe:
 
                              Glazed Grapefruit
 
     Remove core and seeds from grapefruit halves; cut edges and between sec-
     tions.   Sprinkle each half with brown sugar;  dot with butter or marga-
     rine.  Microwave on HIGH--2 halves, 3 to 3-1/2 minutes; 4 halves, 4 to 5
     minutes.
 
 
                                LET'S REVIEW
 
 
     As you studied  this lesson,  you should have discovered  the answers to
the following questions:
 
True      False       Check the best response:
____      ____
____      ____       1.  If you salt vegetables, do it before
                         microwaving.
____      ____       2.  When baking sweet potatoes in the
                         microwave oven, be sure to prick them before
                         putting them in the oven.
____      ____       3.  Vegetables should be microwaved uncovered.
 
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
MICROWAVING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH
 
LESSON 4
 
Publication 356-063
September 1983
 
Janice Woodard, Extension Specialist, Home Management and Equipment,  Virginia
Tech
 
Assisted by JoAnne Barton, Extension Specialist, Foods and Nutrition, Virginia
Tech
 
Acknowledgement:   Subject  matter  in  this   publication  was  adapted  from
publications  of the  Florida,   Missouri,  Ohio,   and  New York  Cooperative
Extension Services and the Whirlpool Corporation.
 
-Lesson-
                    MICROWAVING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH
-Doc-

     Cooking meat in the  microwave oven varies from super easy  to a moderate
challenge.   The type of meat,  its form,   and the results you want determine
what you have to do to get the best results.
 
     Defrosting Meats,  Poultry,  and Fish:    As frozen meat defrosts,  water
drippings form.   Elevate  the meat on a  roasting rack or inverted  saucer so
that the  drippings which collect  in the  dish cannot cause  surface cooking.
Shield areas  that become  warm before defrosting  is completed,   using small
pieces of foil.   Microwave-thawed meats should  be cooked promptly after they
are  thawed.    Note:   Defrosting  in  the  microwave  oven  is a  matter  of
convenience.    It  is   more  energy  efficient  to  defrost   foods  in  the
refrigerator.
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
Defrost a package of frozen meat,   following the directions in your microwave
oven cookbook.
 
-End-
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USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
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-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Beef - MICROWAVING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH
 
LESSON 4

-Doc-
 
Tender  Roasts:   The  first  key to  success in  microwaving  beef roasts  is
choosing a good quality piece of meat and storing it properly.  Size and shape
of roasts are also  important.   An irregular shaped roast cooks  in an uneven
pattern.  Choose a roast that has a symmetrical shape for best results.  Small
roasts cook best, but if too small, the roast cooks before browning develops.
 
     The roast also should be compact as  possible.   If a roast is thinner in
one area than another, the thin part will be done before the thick part,  just
as in conventional cooking.   Expect a long,  thin roast to cook faster than a
short, squatty roast.   Bony roasts, such as standing ribs of beef,  generally
cook best if bones are left attached to the roast as it cooks.
 
     Most  roasts will  keep  their shape  if tied  with  heavy string  before
cooking.   Adding  small amounts of  foil to shield  areas that cook  first is
helpful in obtaining the best results in roasting.   Foil prevents overcooking
on outside areas while the interior of the roast gets to the doneness desired.
Do not add salt to meat before cooking.   Salt tends to toughen outer layer of
meat if  added before cooking.   However,   garlic powder and  other non-salty
seasonings such as pepper may be added before cooking, if desired.
 
     Meats should be placed  on a trivet or roasting rack so  that they are up
and out of juices which form in the bottom  of the dish as the meat cooks.  An
inverted saucer may be used as a trivet.
 
     Fat on a  roast tends to "pop"  loudly from time to  time during cooking.
This is a common occurrence.   Covering meat with waxed paper helps reduce the
spattering.
 
     Drippings should be removed from the dish to shorten cooking time.
 
     Carry-over cooking time is important in microwaving meats. After the meat
is taken from  the oven,  the molecules  continue to vibrate and  create heat.
When the meat has been cooked at high power, the internal temperature may rise
as much as 15  to 20 degrees within 20 minutes.    Temperature rises less with
the  lower power  settings.    Be  sure to  remember  this  when checking  the
temperature at the end of the cooking time.  Meat can easily be overcooked.
 
     The National  Live Stock and Meat  Board makes the  following recommenda-
tions for cooking boneless beef rib eye, top round top loin,  rump,  and cross
rib roasts:
 
1.  Place  3  to   4-pound roast,   fat side down,  on  rack in microwave-safe
    dish.  Do not add liquid.
 
2.  Place waxed paper over top of  roast;   microwave at medium low (200 watts
    or about 30% power).  To estimate cooking time, allow 18 to 22 minutes per
    pound for rare to medium.   Specific time varies with weight,  shape,  and
    composition of roast.
 
3.  Rotate dish 1/4  turn every  20 minutes during cooking.    Invert roast to
    fat side up at midpoint of cooking time.
 
 
4.  Shield edges  that   appear to  be overcooking with  small pieces  of foil
    during cooking.
 
5.  When roast is  5 degrees below doneness desired,  remove  from oven,  tent
    with foil,  and allow to stand 15  to 20 minutes.   To determine doneness,
    use a  microwave thermometer  or sensor  probe during  cooking or  a quick
    recovery or regular meat thermometer after roast has been removed from the
    microwave oven.
 
6.  Cook roasts from  beef round and chuck  only to rare or medium rare.   (If
    well-done beef is desired, cook as a pot roast.)   More tender roasts from
    the rib and loin can be cooked to rare, medium, or well done.
 
Less Tender Cuts:   Less tender cuts such  as chuck roasts and flank steak can
be braised in the microwave oven.   However, there is likely to be little time
advantage in comparison to conventional cooking.
 
Ground Meat:  Thickness and type of ground meat determine cooking time.  Fatty
ground meat may take less time to cook than very lean meat.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Pork - MICROWAVING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH
 
LESSON 4

-Doc-
 
     The practicality and safety of cooking pork in the microwave oven is cur-
rently under  study due to  concern that certain  microorganisms (specifically
Trichinella spiralis) might survive in microwave cooked pork.
 
 
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Poultry - MICROWAVING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH
 
LESSON 4

-Doc-
 
     Poultry parts should  be arranged in a  baking dish so that  the thinner,
quicker cooking parts are toward the center of the dish and the thicker,  lon-
ger cooking parts are to the outside.  Whole birds will need to be rotated and
turned several  times during  the cooking process.    Covering with  wax paper
makes clean-up  easier and  helps distribute  the heat  more evenly.    Remove
juices during cooking.
 
-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
Fish - MICROWAVING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH
 
LESSON 4

-Doc-
 
     Fillets and steaks may be microwaved successfully in several ways to pro-
duce a variety of dishes.  Be careful not to overcook fish.
 
Browning Meats and Poultry
     In microwave cooking,  large cuts of meat with a fat covering cooked lon-
ger than 10 minutes will develop some browning on the surface.  However, small
pieces  and nonfatty  cuts  do not  brown as  do  conventionally cooked  foods
because there is  not enough time to  produce a browning effect.    One way to
brown such  cuts of meat is  to sprinkle or  spread a browning agent  onto the
meat.   These browning agents include sauces such as soy, barbeque, brown bou-
quet,  and Worcestershire;  and powders such  as paprika and special microwave
browning products.   Jelly, preserves,  and glazes can also be used.   Many of
the browning agents have  a high salt content which is  a limitation for those
people on low-sodium diets.
 
     Other techniques  for browning  include the  use of  conventional surface
cooking or broiling;   or microwave oven browning elements  and browning uten-
sils.  Of course, there are recipes in which the lack of brownness is no limi-
tation.   For example,  in making chicken salad  it is not necessary to have a
brown skin.
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
Prepare a meat, fish, or poultry dish using the microwave oven,  following the
directions in  your microwave  oven cookbook.    Or try  one of  the following
recipes:

 
                              Oven-Fried Chicken
 
2 to 2-1/2 pound chicken, cut up
1 package seasoned coating mix
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
 
1.   Wash chicken and drain.
2.  Combine remaining ingredients in a bag.
3.  Coat  chicken  according  to directions on coating mix package.
4.  Arrange pieces in a  11-3/4  x 7-1/2-inch glass dish with  large pieces at
    corners and near edge of dish, with small ones in the center.
5.  Cover dish with wax paper.
6.  Microwave on HIGH for  18 to 21 minutes or until chicken is done, rotating
    dish half-way through microwave time.
 
6 to 8 servings
 
 
                                   Meatloaf
 
1-1/2 pounds ground beef
1/4 cup bread crumbs
1 small onion, chopped
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon mustard
1/4 teaspoon pepper
 
1.  Mix   ingredients  together thoroughly.   Spread  mixture evenly in baking
    dish.
2.  Spread over top if  desired:   2 tablespoons catsup, steak,  barbecue,  or
    chili sauce.
3.   Microwave on HIGH:
    Loaf        12-18 minutes
    dish        (rotate after
                half the cooking)
 
    Ring-shaped 
    dish        8-13 minutes
    Round dish  12-18 minutes
 
        6       
    individual  
    containers  10-13 minutes.
 
4.  Let stand 5 to 10 minutes  to complete cooking and become firm.
 
 
 
                                 LET'S REVIEW
 
     As you studied this lesson, you should have discovered the answers to the
following questions:
 
 
True   False     Check the best response:
____   _____     _____ ___ ____ ________ 
 
____    ____      1.  Meats which are microwaved longer than 10
                      minutes are likely to brown.
____    ____      2.  A beef roast should be served immediately
                      after being taken out of the microwave oven.
____    ____      3.  When cooking chicken drumsticks and thighs,
                      put the thicker parts of the chicken toward
                      the center of the dish.

-End-
-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S
 
-Title-
MICROWAVING MILK/EGGS/CHEESE, SAUCES/CASSEROLES, BREADS/CEREALS
 
LESSON 5
 
Publication 356-064
September 1983
 
Janice Woodard, Extension Specialist, Home Management and Equipment, Virginia
Tech
 
Assisted  by JoAnne  Barton,   Extension  Specialist,  Foods  and  Nutrition,
Virginia Tech
 
Acknowledgement:    Subject  matter  in this  publication  was  adapted  from
publications  of the  Florida,  Missouri,   Ohio,  and  New York  Cooperative
Extension Services and the Whirlpool Corporation.
 
-Lesson-
             MICROWAVING MILK, EGGS, AND CHEESE
             SAUCES AND CASSEROLES
             BREADS AND CEREALS

-Doc-

     This  lesson focuses  on the  principles involved  in microwaving  milk,
eggs, and cheese; sauces and casseroles; breads and cereals.  As in lessons 3
and 4, recipes are given to illustrate a principle.
 
 
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-Title-
Milk, eggs, and cheese - MICROWAVING

MICROWAVING MILK/EGGS/CHEESE, SAUCES/CASSEROLES, BREADS/CEREALS
LESSON 5

-Doc-
                           MILK, EGGS, AND CHEESE
 
 
Protein Foods  Are Heat Sensitive.   The  cooking of protein products  can be
slowed by cooking with the defrost cycle or a lower power setting.
 
Milk
     When using milk in creamed soups, scalloped potatoes, and the like, milk
may foam and boil over.  Make certain the container is large enough to handle
this.
 
     When cooking homemade soup,  you will probably use 100% power.   However
when  heating canned  soups diluted  with milk,   microwave at  50% power  to
prevent overcooking.   The temperature probe is  convenient to use in heating
milk (such as for scalding, 185 degrees F.)
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
Prepare  a  dish containing  milk  using  a  recipe  in your  microwave  oven
cookbook.  Or try the following recipe:
 
 
                            Cream of Potato Soup
 
4 strips bacon
3 cups potatoes, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1/4 cup chopped onion
1/4 cup chopped celery
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1-1/2 cups milk
1 cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
 
1.  Microwave  bacon   on  HIGH   for 3 to  3-1/2 minutes  or until  bacon is
    crisp.  Crumble and set aside.
2.  Combine  potatoes,     onions,   celery,  water,   and salt in  a 2-quart
    casserole.  Cover with a tight-fitting lid or plastic wrap.  Microwave on
    HIGH for 10 to 12 minutes or until vegetables are tender.
3.  Mix flour,  milk,  chicken broth,  and  parsley until smooth.   Stir into
    potatoes.   Microwave  uncovered on HIGH  for 15  to 20 minutes  or until
    thickened.  Stir occasionally during cooking.
4.   Garnish with bacon.
 
4 to 6 servings
 
If you have a temperature probe, set it for 150 to 160 degrees.
 
Source:  Used with permission of The Tappan Appliance Division
 
 
-End-
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Eggs - MICROWAVING

MICROWAVING MILK/EGGS/CHEESE, SAUCES/CASSEROLES, BREADS/CEREALS
LESSON 5

-Doc-
 
     In the microwave oven,  egg yolk which  contains more fat than egg white
attracts the microwaves first.    If you microwave an egg until  the white is
firm,  the yolk will toughen.   Standing time  is necessary to cook the white
completely without hardening the yolk.
 
     Remember to puncture the membrane of the yolk before microwaving.   It's
the same principle  as the baked potato--building up of  steam pressure.   DO
NOT TRY TO  MICROWAVE EGGS IN THE  SHELL.   Cooking eggs in  the shell causes
building up of pressure,  too.   For recipes requiring hard-cooked eggs,  use
conventional methods of cooking rather than the microwave oven.
 
     The heating pattern of your oven may affect the way eggs cook.   If your
oven has an uneven pattern,  you may  have difficulty with poached or shirred
eggs and omelet mixtures.   Experiment with your oven.  Use 50% power setting
to prepare eggs in these ways.
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
 
Prepare an egg dish using a recipe from your microwave oven cookbook.  Or try
the following recipe:
 
                               Brunch Special
 
 
1 package (12 ounces)  frozen  hash brown potatoes
1/3 cup sour cream
1/3 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon snipped chives
4 slices ham
4 eggs
 
1.  Place potatoes  in 2-quart (8  x 8  inches)  glass baking  dish.   Cover.
    Microwave on HIGH for 6 to 7 minutes or until partly cooked.
2.  Blend in  sour  cream,  milk, salt, and chives.   Arrange ham slices near
    center of dish.
3.  Make two hollows in  potatoes on each side of ham.    Break egg into each
    indentation; replace cover.
4.  Microwave on  70% power for 6  to 8 minutes  or until eggs are  cooked to
    desired doneness.
5.  Let stand covered for 2 minutes before serving.
 
4 servings
 
 
-End-
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Cheese - MICROWAVING

MICROWAVING MILK/EGGS/CHEESE, SAUCES/CASSEROLES, BREADS/CEREALS
LESSON 5

-Doc-
 
     In microwaving, cheese melts quickly and toughens easily.   Natural hard
cheese becomes stringy if overcooked.   Processed  and softer cheese does not
become stringy, but will toughen if cooked too long.  Cheese should therefore
be cooked at a medium power setting,  added to the food toward the end of the
cooking pe-riod,  or placed  beneath other foods in a casserole.    If a dish
calls for grated  cheese on top,  sprinkle  it on when only  standing time is
left.  The heat from the cooked food will be sufficient to melt the cheese.
 
 
-End-

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Sauces, puddings, and casseroles - MICROWAVING

MICROWAVING MILK/EGGS/CHEESE, SAUCES/CASSEROLES, BREADS/CEREALS
LESSON 5

-Doc-

                      SAUCES, PUDDINGS, AND CASSEROLES
 
 
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Sauces and Puddings - MICROWAVING

MICROWAVING MILK/EGGS/CHEESE, SAUCES/CASSEROLES, BREADS/CEREALS
LESSON 5

-Doc-
 
     Sauces and  puddings can be meas-ured,   mixed,  and cooked in  the same
utensil.   For  a 4-serving portion,  use  a 4-cup glass measuring  cup.   In
microwaving sauces  and puddings you will  not have to stir  them constantly.
And you won't have to worry about  lumps.   Stir several times as the mixture
begins to thicken.
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
 
Prepare  a  sauce and/or  pudding  using  a  recipe  in your  microwave  oven
cookbook.  Or try this recipe:
 
 
                                Easy Pudding
 
1 package (3-1/2 ounces) pudding and pie filling mix (not instant)
2 cups milk
 
1.  Pour package of pudding mix into a 1-quart glass measuring cup.   Stir in
    enough milk to dissolve pudding.
2.   Stir in remaining milk.
3.  Microwave on HIGH for 2 minutes.  Stir.
4.  Microwave  on  HIGH for  3  to  4  minutes  longer or  until  pudding  is
    thickened.  Stir once every minute.
 
4 servings
 
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Casseroles - MICROWAVING

MICROWAVING MILK/EGGS/CHEESE, SAUCES/CASSEROLES, BREADS/CEREALS
LESSON 5

-Doc-
 
     Most casseroles are microwaved on HIGH.   Exceptions might be those with
considerable amounts of cheese.   Toppings should  be added toward the end of
cooking, or when the cooking is completed.   For example,  crumb or chip-type
toppings may  be added during  the last few minutes  of cooking or  after the
casserole has cooked and just before serving.
 
Using A  Temperature Probe.   To  avoid damaging  the probe,  insert  it into
completely defrosted foods.  Heat precooked foods to 150 to 160 degrees.  The
probe should be placed in the center of the casserole.
 
 
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Breads - MICROWAVING

MICROWAVING MILK/EGGS/CHEESE, SAUCES/CASSEROLES, BREADS/CEREALS
LESSON 5

-Doc-
 
     A brief warming in the microwave  oven gives tasty rolls,  muffins,  and
other  bread products.    Usually 5  to 10  seconds  per roll  or serving  is
adequate time to warm bread products.  Wrap these products in paper napkin or
towel to absorb moisture during the  warming.   Older breads can be freshened
by heating them in  plastic film to retain moisture.   Sprinkling  with a few
drops of water before wrapping may help.  Rolls with moist filling or topping
heat faster than others.   Raisins and  icing become very hot.   Frozen rolls
defrost and  heat at the same  time,  taking only  15 seconds or so  for each
roll.  Remember, overheating results in tough products.
 
     To make  your own bread cubes  or crumbs,  heat  2 slices of bread  on a
paper towel for 1-1/2 minutes, turning over once.   After the bread cools for
a minute or two, it is dry and crisp enough to use.
 
     It is possible to bake quick and yeast breads in the microwave oven, but
unless you  have a microwave/convection oven  you may prefer the  texture and
appearance of  bread products when they  are baked conventionally.    You may
also find little time advantage in using  the microwave oven for baking bread
products.
 
 
     Yeast bread dough can be proofed (raised)  in the microwave oven several
different ways.   One way is to use the  oven as an "incubator" by bringing 2
to 3 cups of water to a boil.   Set the bowl of dough alongside the hot water
and close the  door.   The heat and  moisture from the water  create an ideal
atmosphere for the yeast.   The time required  for the dough to rise is about
the same as if it were in any warm place.
 
     If your  microwave oven has variable  power settings,  a quicker  way of
proofing is possible.   One method is to place dough in the oven with about 3
cups of boiling water.  Set the oven at the lowest power setting.   Turn oven
"on."  Unshaped  dough takes  about 15 minutes  to rise;   rolls or  2 shaped
loaves about 7 to  8 minutes.   Use caution in proofing  yeast bread to avoid
killing the yeast.
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
 
Proof yeast bread in your microwave oven,  following the instructions in your
microwave cookbook or the above directions.
 
 
-End-

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-Title-
Cereals - MICROWAVING

MICROWAVING MILK/EGGS/CHEESE, SAUCES/CASSEROLES, BREADS/CEREALS
LESSON 5

-Doc-
 
 
     Cereals, especially the quick-cooking kinds,  are very simple to cook in
the microwave  oven.   As  with all  high-liquid foods,   use a  large enough
container to  prevent boilovers.    For even heating,   stir the  cereal once
halfway through the cooking.   With microwaving, you'll have no messy cooking
pan to clean.
 
 
                              LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
a) Look  for  microwave  cooking instructions on packages of cereal.
b) Cook  at   least  one   cereal using   the microwave  oven.   Here  is one
   suggested recipe:
 
 
                            Quick Cooking Oatmeal
 
 
3/4 cup water
1/3 cup quick-cooking oats
1/8 teaspoon salt
 
1.  Measure water, cereal, and salt into cereal bowl.  Mix well.
2.  Microwave on  HIGH uncovered  for 1-1/4 to  1-3/4 minutes.    Stir.   Let
    stand, covered, for 1 to 2 minutes before serving.
 
1 serving
 
 
For two servings, microwave two individual bowls at one time on HIGH for 2 to
2-1/2 minutes.
 
 
-End-

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-Title-
Cakes and Pies - MICROWAVING

MICROWAVING MILK/EGGS/CHEESE, SAUCES/CASSEROLES, BREADS/CEREALS
LESSON 5

-Doc-
 
     It is possible to prepare cakes and pies in the microwave oven.  However
the products will differ in appearance  and texture from those conventionally
baked.    If you  want to  experiment with  these products,   start with  the
directions in your microwave cookbook.   Some  cake mixes come with microwave
cooking  instructions  or information  about  where  to obtain  such  cooking
instructions.
 
 
                                LET'S REVIEW
     As you studied  this lesson,  you should have discovered  the answers to
the following questions:
 
True  False   Check the best response.
 
____   ____   1.  When heating canned cream of tomato soup diluted
                  with milk, the best microwave power setting is
                  HIGH.
____   ____   2.  In cooking eggs in the microwave oven, it is
                  recommended that you use a setting lower than HIGH.
____    ____  3.  Muffins should be heated for 1 minute per muffin.
 
-End-

-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
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-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S

-Title-
MICROWAVE OVEN MANAGEMENT
 
LESSON 6
 
Publication 356-065
September 1983
 
Janice Woodard, Extension Specialist, Home Management and Equipment, Virginia
Tech
 
Assisted  by JoAnne  Barton,   Extension  Specialist,  Foods  and  Nutrition,
Virginia Tech
 
Acknowledgement:    Subject  matter  in this  publication  was  adapted  from
publications  of the  Florida,  Missouri,   Ohio,  and  New York  Cooperative
Extension Services and the Whirlpool Corporation.
 
-Lesson-
                        MICROWAVE OVEN MANAGEMENT
-Doc-

     Now  that you've  had  a  chance to  microwave  cook  some foods  on  an
individual dish basis, let's consider the topic of microwave oven management.
 
-End-

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Energy-saving - MICROWAVE OVEN MANAGEMENT
 
LESSON 6

-Doc-
                       ENERGY-SAVING
 
     Research at  Virginia Tech  has found that  energy consumption  could be
decreased about a third  by using a microwave oven along  with a conventional
electric range to cook a week's meals for a family of four.   However, use of
the microwave oven does not always result in reduced energy consumption.   To
maximize the energy-saving feature of microwave ovens,  the following choices
of foods are  recommended for microwave oven cooking:    a)  items ordinarily
prepared by heating in the range oven such as baked custard or casseroles; b)
items that will  cook faster in the  microwave oven than on  surface units of
the electric range.
 
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Suiting your family's needs - MICROWAVE OVEN MANAGEMENT
 
LESSON 6

-Doc-

                SUITING YOUR FAMILY'S NEEDS
 
     As a cooking appliance,  the microwave oven,  like a conventional range,
can accommodate your family's needs in terms of your food budget,  desire for
gourmet meals,  and special diet needs.  Keep  your family's needs in mind as
you decide what foods to cook.   Learn  to screen recipes that encourage your
objectives.   You will also find some microwave cookbooks which have separate
chapters on  topics such as  low calorie meals,  and  cooking for one  or two
persons.
 
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Planning microwave oven menus

MICROWAVE OVEN MANAGEMENT
LESSON 6

-Doc-


               PLANNING MICROWAVE OVEN MENUS
 
     You can,   of course,   cook just  one dish  in the  microwave oven  and
conventionally cook all the rest of the  foods for a meal.  However,  you can
also use the microwave oven for more than one dish per meal.
 
     When you  are planning a menu  for microwaving,  consider  the following
points, just as you do when cooking conventionally:
 
     Think through the entire meal.
 
     Carefully read each recipe and become familiar with the instructions.
 
     Assemble all utensils and ingredients required by the recipe.
 
     Consider the nutritional aspect of foods.
 
     Strive for contrast in the color and texture of foods.
 
     Think about food flavors.  Do they blend well?
 
     Unless you have  a microwave oven which is designed  for cooking several
kinds of  foods at a time,   foods must be cooked  one at a time,   either in
segments or sequence.
 
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Segmenting - MICROWAVE OVEN MANAGEMENT
 
LESSON 6

-Doc-
 
     This is one  approach to microwaving which means  partially cooking some
foods and  allowing them  to stand  while the  temperature equalizes  and the
flavors blend.  This leaves the oven free to cook another item.
 
     A segmented schedule might look like this:
 
  Menu                                        Schedule
 
Rolled rib roast                          Early in day, make fruit
Baked sweet potatoes                       delight.
Creamy cabbage                            About 1 hour before the
Fruit delight                              meal:
                                 a) Cook roast through 1/2
                                     time required.
                                 b) Cook sweet potatoes
                                    (wrap in foil after
                                    removing from oven).
                                 c) Complete roast.
                                 d) Cook cabbage.
 
                                 At dessert time,
                                   reheat fruit delight,
                                   if desired.
 
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Sequencing - MICROWAVE OVEN MANAGEMENT
 
LESSON 6

-Doc-
 
      With this technique,  one food is prepared after another in a preplanned
 sequence.   To determine in what order  you should prepare foods consider the
 following:
 
 1.  Would it be preferable to pre-
     pare any food the day before
     or earlier in the day?
 
 2.  How long a cooking time does
     each food require?
 
      Plan to set the  table before starting to prepare the  food.   Then cook
 the food having the longest cooking time first.   Usually, foods that require
 a longer  cooking time  retain or  hold heat  well.   Some  dishes,  such  as
 casseroles,  will actually  improve in flavor when they are  allowed to stand
 for a few  minutes.   Remember that some foods require  a "carryover" cooking
 time during which the food will finish its cooking.
 
      While one food is cooking, prepare the other foods so they will be ready
 for  their turn  in the  oven  with no  delay.    Have some  food inside  the
 microwave oven at all times so no cooking time is wasted.  To help foods stay
 moist and hot,  cover  them after they are removed from  the oven.   If foods
 cool before serving they can be reheated in the microwave oven.
 
      The following will review previous lessons and give you some ideas as to
 the order in which specific foods might best be prepared:
 
 Meats and casseroles:    As a general rule,   start cooking the meat  or meat
 casseroles first.
 
 Vegetables:   Usually there  is a short standing  time (2 to 3  minutes)  for
 frozen vegetables to allow them to  completely soften for best eating.   This
 is also true of  most fresh vegetables.   While they are  standing,  you have
 plenty of time to heat rolls or beverages in your microwave oven.
 
 Meat  and  vegetable  combination  casseroles:     The  versatility  of  most
 casseroles allows them  to be cooked well  in the microwave oven.    They may
 either  be  served immediately  or  allowed  to  stand  a few  minutes  while
 vegetables and rolls are cooking.
 
 Desserts:  These can be handled in one of two ways.   Cook them several hours
 ahead of time (example:   puddings, cookies, pies)  or you can cook them just
 before eating while  dishes from the main course are  being cleared (example:
 baked apples, glazed grapefruit, frozen cakes, or pastries).
 
 Bread and rolls:   These heat in seconds.   Because they easily overcook they
 should be  popped into  the microwave oven  just before you  sit down  at the
 table.
 
 Appetizers:   If appetizers are to be served hot, heat them when needed, even
 if it means removing another food from  the microwave oven for a few minutes.
 Most appetizers, even frozen ones,  take such a short time to prepare that no
 harm is done to the food which has been set aside while appetizers heat.
 
-End-

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Reheating - MICROWAVE OVEN MANAGEMENT
 
LESSON 6

-Doc-

                                   REHEATING
 
      Another  common  use of  the  microwave  oven  in  family meals  is  for
 reheating foods which have been cooked conventionally.   Most foods reheat in
 the microwave oven  without loss of quality or texture.    They taste freshly
 cooked,  not warmed  over,  which may mean you will  discard fewer leftovers.
 Main dishes reheat especially well;  some even  improve in flavor if they are
 made in advance.   Take care to avoid additional cooking which might overcook
 foods.
 
 Caution:   Food may not be safe to eat if  held for more than 2 or 3 hours at
 tem-peratures between 60 degrees and 125  degrees F,  the zone where bacteria
 grow rapidly.
 
 Reheating Plates of Food
 Arrange thick or dense foods to the outside of a microwave-safe plate.  Place
 delicate foods to the center of the  plate.   Spread out main dishes or foods
 such as mashed potatoes in a shallow  layer for quick,  even heating.   Cover
 the plate with wax paper or plastic wrap  to hold in heat and moisture.  Test
 warmth by  feeling the  bottom of  the plate.    When food  is hot  enough to
 transfer heat to the plate, the food is ready to serve.
 
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Recipe conversion - MICROWAVE OVEN MANAGEMENT
 
LESSON 6

-Doc-

                               RECIPE CONVERSION
 
      This topic is covered in the fact sheet accompanying this lesson.   Here
 is  an  example  of  a  conventional   recipe  which  has  been  changed  for
 microwaving:
 
                             Ground Beef and Rice
 
    Conventional                              Microwave
 
 1.  In large skillet, brown one      1.  Use 3-quart casserole.
     pound ground beef with one       2.  Microwave on HIGH 6
     chopped onion.                       minutes.
 2.  Cook over medium heat until      3.  Stir once at 3 minutes.
 3.  meat loses color                 4.  Omit water
 4.  Add 1 cup water and 1 No. 2      5.  Use 1-1/3 cups precooked
     can tomatoes                         rice.
 5.  with 2/3 cup long grain rice     6.  Use smaller amount.
     and                                  
     
 6.  1 tablespoon minced onion        
                                      
 
                               LEARNING ACTIVITY
 
 Write down your favorite recipe and rewrite it for microwaving.
 
                             MICROWAVE OVEN EXTRAS
 
      The microwave oven is well known as a  cooking device but it can also be
 used for a variety of other things. Here are some of them:
 
 Drying fresh herbs            Arrange 10 herb sprigs (such as parsley,
                               basil, mint, etc.) between 2 paper
                               towels. Microwave on HIGH 3 to 4
                               minutes or until dry and brittle.
                               When cool, crumble leaves off
                               branches.  Store in airtight jar or
                               plastic bag.
 
                               Note:  When handling lesser amounts of
                               herbs, place a small container of
                               water in one corner of your oven to
                               prevent build-up of microwaves.
 
 Softening hard brown sugar    Place sugar in a glass dish and heat
                               one to two minutes on HIGH.
 
 Plumping raisins              Sprinkle 1 or 2 teaspoons of water
                               over the raisins.  Cover tightly.
                               Microwave 30 seconds to 1 minute
                               on HIGH.
 
 Toasting nuts                 Spread about 1/4 cup nuts on a paper
                               plate or in a glass pie plate.
                               Microwave uncovered on HIGH about
                               3 minutes or until toasted, stirring
                               frequently.
 
 Melting chocolate             Heat chocolate in its paper wrapper
                               or a plastic or glass cup.  Use 50%
                               power.
 
 Soften dried fruits           Place 1 cup in a bowl, cover with
                               water and heat 4-5 minutes on
                               HIGH.
 
 Warm honey, maple syrup       Place in microwave-safe glass
                               pitcher for 30-45 seconds on HIGH.
 
 Crisp soggy pretzels          Heat for 15-20 seconds.  Let stand
 or potato chips               for 2 minutes.
 
-End-

-HEADER-
USING YOUR MICROWAVE OVEN
Learn-by-Mail Course
 
-State-
Virginia, Va
-Region-
Southern, S

-Title-
Other sources of microwave cooking information

MICROWAVE OVEN MANAGEMENT
 
LESSON 6

-Doc-


                OTHER SOURCES OF MICROWAVE COOKING INFORMATION
 
      Appliance Dealers
 
      Many  microwave oven  dealers offer  programs  about microwave  cooking.
 These programs can answer more specific questions about a particular model of
 microwave oven than is possible in these lessons.
 
      Printed Material
 
      In  addition  to the  many,   many  cookbooks and  magazines  containing
 microwave  recipes,  there  are  at least  four  newsletters  available on  a
 subscription basis.
 
                                 LET'S REVIEW
 
      As you studied  this lesson,  you should have discovered  the answers to
 the following questions:
 
 1.  What are two ways of cooking more than one type of food at a time
     in the microwave oven?
 2.  What are two adjustments which usually need to be made when
     adapting conventional recipes to microwave oven cooking?
 3.  How can you prevent a build-up of microwaves when you are
     microwaving small amounts of herbs?
 
 REMINDER:  SEND ANY UNANSWERED QUESTIONS ABOUT USING THE MICROWAVE
 OVEN TO YOUR LOCAL EXTENSION AGENT USING THE FORM PROVIDED IN LESSON I.
 
-Title-
Diseases of African Violets. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/4/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1002
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip n1002, "Diseases
of African Violets."
   African violets have few diseases that are a problem, but a few can
be troublesome.
   Botrytis blight can damage leaves and flowers.  A water-soaked
lesion on the underside of leaf petioles near the pot rim is one of the
first symptoms.  The lesion can enlarge, turn brown or black, and kill
the leaf.  Flowers may look water-soaked and fade prematurely.
Botrytis blight is more of a problem under crowded conditions, high
humidity, poor air circulation and low light intensity.  You can reduce
the damage caused by this disease by spacing plants, providing good
air movement, and removing any diseased or dead plant material.
   Root and crown rot is another disease of African violets.
Symptoms include a wilting of the leaves.  The top part of the plant
may decay and turn brown.  Also, even when these symptoms aren't
present, you may be able to lift the top from the soil easily because
the crown of the plant has rotted off at the soil line.  In other
plants, the crown may be killed and the leaves and petioles begin
decaying.
   Root and crown rot shouldn't be a problem if you use a sterilized
rooting medium and potting soil.  If a prized plant becomes infected,
you may be able to save it if you discover the disease before it
affects the crown.  Remove the diseased portion from the crown,
cutting it well above the decaying area.  Re-root the crown in water
or any sterile potting medium. 
Root-knot nematodes damage African violets occasionally.  Roots                 
will have galls, or knots, on them.  Crowns can be distorted and
leaves thickened in spots, and blister like galls may appear.  Affected
plants are weak and don't grow well.  If you use a sterilized rooting
medium and soil, root-knot nematodes won't be a problem.
   Two other problems not caused by disease are called petiole rot
and ring spot.  Petiole rot is caused by an accumulation of salts on
the pot rim or soil surface.  Leaf petioles which touch these salts can
die.  You can prevent petiole rot by avoiding excess fertilizer and by
flushing the soil occasionally with heavy watering.
   Ring spot is another problem.  Affected leaves have white, yellow
or brown rings.  Spots are caused when cold water gets on the leaves
or when the sun shines on wet leaves.  Water African violets carefully
or water from the bottom of the pot.  Also, use water slightly warmer
than air temperature.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Avocado 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1003
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1003,
"Avocado".
   The first thing you need to do to grow an avocado plant is to
germinate the seed.  You can germinate an avocado seed in a glass of
water or in a moist porous soil mixture.  Either of these methods
works, but the soil method is usually faster.
   If you decide to sprout the seed in water, put three or four
toothpicks in the side of the seed about half way down.  The
toothpicks will support the seed while it is suspended in the water.
Place the seed--flat end down--so that the lower half of the flat end
is covered with water.  The sprouting tip of the avocado seed is the
pointed end...so, be certain the flat end is suspended in the water.
   Put your glass or jar of water in a window that gets a good bit of
sunshine.  Add enough water to keep the bottom half of the seed in
water all the time.
   After a few weeks, you should see small roots appearing in the
water.  And...there should be signs of a small tender shoot at the
pointed end.  Tiny leaves will develop and grow on this shoot.  Later
the main stem will push through the top and that's when you plant
the seed in a mixture of garden loam and peat moss.
   To grow an avocado seed in soil, fill a large clay pot with the soil
mixture just mentioned...equal parts of good garden loam and compost
or peat moss.  Then plant the seed just deep enough so that the
pointed end is about an inch above the soil line.  You must keep the
soil moist all the time.
   After the avocado plant is well on its way...it will thrive with
ordinary attention to water, fertilizer and light.
 
You'll need to water the plant often enough to keep the soil evenly   l         
moist.  Over-watered avocados will develop curled leaves and soft
stems.  Under-watered avocados will wilt and develop dried leaves that
will eventually fall off.
   As for fertilizing the avocado...apply light amounts of a houseplant
fertilizer about every three months.  Also, remember that the plant
requires good, indirect light and protection from frost.
   The avocado will grow into a tree...so, you'll need enough space for
it to grow and mature.  If you don't have room for it in your house
you may need to start a new one every three or four years.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Bromeliads. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1004
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1004,
"Bromeliads."
   Bromeliads are natives of tropical America and are members of a
large family whose best known member is the pineapple.  Bromeliads
are quite common in Central and South America and can be found
there growing in trees or attached to rocks or living on the forest
floor.  They can be any size from one inch high to thirty-five feet
high.
   Bromeliads have a double appeal...their foliage and their flowering
stalks.  Some of the leaves have various kinds of bands in different
color patterns on them.  Many people consider the stalks very
beautiful too because they are unique, vivid and bold.
   Bromeliads need plenty of light to develop good growth and
flowers.  Use only those parts of your house that have good light to
grow bromeliads.  You can use artificial light...fluorescent lights with a
minimum of four 40-watt parallel tubes are the best source of
articifical light.  The light should be six to twenty-four inches above
the plants and they should stay on about fifteen hours a day.
   Most bromeliads have a natural reservoir for water that is formed
when the leaves are arranged in a rosette with the bases overlapping.
By keeping this reservoir filled with water, the bromeliad plants will
get all the water they need.  Too often, if you put water in the
growing medium...the plants get root rot.  Bromeliads thrive on several
sprayings of water every day.
   Bromeliads originated in the tropics so you need to pay some
attention to the temperatures they grow in.  The maximum for
bromeliads during the day is seventy degrees and the maximum at
night should be about fifty-five or sixty degrees.
 
You can fertilize bromeliads about once every four weeks with a   veralh a      
weak solution of an all-purpose soluble fertilizer.  This diluted
fertilizer can be put directly in the receptacle or reservoir in the
center of the leaves.  You should fertilize the root area even less
frequently than this.
   The material the plants grow in should be non-alkaline and it
should be able to supply moisture without getting soggy.  It should be
porous enough to let the water drain off easily and to let air reach
the roots.
   Bromeliads can be made to bloom quite easily.  Just take a healthy,
mature bromeliad with a good root system, drain all the water from
the cup and then put it in a transparent air-tight plastic bag with a
large ripe apple.  Ripe apples give off a gas called ethylene which
triggers flower formation on bromeliads.  After four or five days, take
the plant from the bag and replace the water in the cup.  Depending
on the type of bromeliad...the plant will start to flower in six to
fourteen weeks.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Ferns. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1006
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1006,
"Ferns."
   Your ferns need a soil that's light enough to let excessive water
drain off.  Also, the soil should have enough organic matter such as
leaf mold, humus or peat moss.  This will help the soil keep the
moisture at a constant level.
   A good soil for ferns can be made with two parts sharp builders
sand...two parts loamy soil...two parts peat moss or leaf mold...one-half
part dried cow manure and a five inch pot of bone meal for each
bushel of mixture.
   You really shouldn't let your ferns dry out because if they do...the
tender fronds will dehydrate and die...then, later the plant itself will
die.  The moisture range for ferns runs from the dry side for
asparagus ferns to wet for maidenhair ferns.  Many ferns such as the
Boston types require soil that is constantly moist.
   A good way to water Boston ferns is to place the fern in a saucer
of water.  A relative humidity of fifty per cent is ideal for ferns--and
water evaporating from the saucer will improve the humidity.
   Most ferns can't stand rough handling...so place them where people
won't be brushing against them.  If you put them outside during the
summer...you should put them in dark shade or on the north side of
your house.
 
When your ferns outgrow their pots they'll need to be divided, but   andfa      
this should be done only in the spring.  After you take a fern out of
its pot, use a sharp, long-bladed knife to cut the root ball in halves
or in quarters.  Then separate each piece so you can spread the roots
in the new soil.  The main thing you need to do when you divide your
ferns is be sure to water the roots and the new soil thoroughly.
Also, if at all possible, create for it a humid atmosphere by misting it
for the first few weeks.
   You will need to fertilize your ferns...but you should do it
carefully.  Most ferns should be fertilized every month from April to
September.  You should fertilize them every two months during the
rest of the year.  Use only a half of what the manufacturers of the
fertilizer recommend.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Geraniums, House Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1007
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1007,
"Geraniums, House Plants."
   Geraniums are popular house plants.  They can be bought in various
stages of growth and in many kinds of containers.  The most popular
plants are eight to twelve inches high, have two or three branches
and several flower heads.  They are usually in four-inch pots.  The
most popular colors are white, pink, rose scarlet, rose lavender and
deep red.
   You can plant geraniums in window boxes, tubs or other large
containers.  Use a soil that is well drained and high in organic matter.
A good mixture might have equal parts of soil, sphagnum peat moss
and perlite or coarse sand.  Geraniums develop better roots when they
are set in a soil mixture similar to that in which they were grown.
Be sure containers have one or more drainage holes, and be sure the
drainage holes aren't plugged up.
   Inspect plants daily to be sure they have enough water.  Water
them until water drains from the bottom of the container.  This helps
make sure roots can penetrate all of the soil.  Water only as needed,
checking the soil for dryness to a depth of four to six inches.
   Soluble fertilizers are best for plants grown in containers.  Many
brands are available.  Use them according to directions, and be sure
the soil is moist when you apply fertilizer.
   If you bought a geranium that has a dense, compacted root system,
loosen the roots gently when you transplant it. 
Geraniums grown indoors in winter may develop weak stems.  To                   
prevent this, keep plants in a sunny window and pinch them back
occasionally.  This encourages bushy growth.  If strong natural light
isn't available, use artificial light.  Place plants 12 inches beneath a
40-watt, daylight cool fluorescent bulb for satisfactory results.
   Cool homes in winter aren't a problem for geraniums.  They thrive
when night temperatures are between 55 and 60 degrees and when day
temperatures are 10 to 15 degrees higher.  Don't place them near
heating or air conditioning registers.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Jade Plant. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1008
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1008,
"Jade Plant."
   Jade plants seem to prefer temperatures that get no lower than
fifty degrees at night and then stay between sixty-five and seventy-
five degrees during the day.  If you set your plants in or near
windows you should protect them when the outside temperatures drop
below fifty...protect them by pulling the shades or by putting
newspaper between the plants and the window.
   Jade plants seem to like plenty of light.  A plant that gets a lot of
sunshine can tolerate higher temperatures than a plant growing in
poor light.  If you need to put your plants in darker places and you
can't use artificial light, you should rotate these plants with those
plants growing in better light.
   As for watering, keep the soil uniformly moist...but not wet during
the warm months and fairly dry during the winter.  Soak the soil, but
don't water more often than is necessary...overwatering tends to make
the roots rot.  However, you should know that too little water can
cause dwarfing, foliage spotting, leaf droppage, and eventual death of
the plant.  The water should be at room temperature and it should be
applied in the morning whenever possible.
   You'll need to fertilize your jade plant about once every three
months.  The easiest way to apply the fertilizer in a liquid form.  If
you use a soluble fertilizer be sure you follow the manufacturer's
recommendations.  Also, never apply fertilizer to a dry soil because
you could injure the roots.
   Jade plants usually grow best in a soil mixture that is made of
fifty percent organic matter and twenty-five percent sharp sand.  At
least half of the organic matter should be peat moss.
 
One way to tell if your jade plants need to be repotted is if they   fof        
need water more than once every twenty-four hours.  If you find you
do need to transplant your jade plant, put some soil in the bottom of
the pot and firm the soil around the old root ball.  Leave enough
room in the top of the pot for proper watering.  Water the soil
thoroughly at first and don't water the plant again until the soil dries
out on top.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Orchids. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1010
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1010,
"Orchids."
   Most types of orchids can adjust to a wide range of cultural
practices and environments.
   If you're just beginning your orchid collection, perhaps the one you
will want to choose is the showy Cattleya.  Then later you can expand
to other types such as the Laelias, Oncidiums and Epidendrums.  All of
these do well in homes.  In fact, you can even raise orchid seedlings
and sow your own seed.
   Orchids need the same temperatures as most other house plants.
The night temperatures should not get below fifty-five degrees and the
day temperatures should be about ten to fifteen degrees higher.  Don't
put your orchids near windows when the weather outside is extremely
cold.
   The amount of moisture in the air is very important for orchids.
Since the air in most modern homes is relatively dry, you will need to
spray them several times a day with a fine mist.  Another...easier...way
to water plants is to put them on a tray of water with one or two
inches of pebbles that support the pots above the water.
   Also, when it comes to watering orchids, the potting medium should
be moist while the plant is growing and producing flowers.  Plants
growing in more open bark mixes may need watering more often than
those growing in the conventional Osmunda fern root material.
   Watering your orchids twice a week will usually be often enough if
they're kept where the humidity is relatively high.  During the summer
you may need to water them everyday.
 
Some people believe that you don't need to fertilize orchids...but   ray        
you do need to fertilize them and regularly.  You should use a soluble
fertilizer such as 30-10-10 or 20-20-20 at least twice a month during
the warm months.  Be sure you follow the recommendations of the
fertilize manufacturer.
   Orchids usually do well when you put them outdoors during the
summer.  You can hang them in trees where they'll get filtered light
during the middle of the day and direct sunlight in the early morning
and late afternoon.
   You orchids will produce excellent flowers under artificial light.  A
combination of forty-watt standard cool white and deluxe warm
fluorescent bulbs seem to work well.  You should put the plants as
close to the light as possible without burning the leaves.  Keep the
lights on about fourteen hours a day.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Piggyback Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1012
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1012,
"Piggyback Plants."
   The piggyback plant is something of a curiosity for home owners.
Part of its popularity is attributed to its durability and the ease
with which it is grown.
   The piggyback plant has fresh green leaves and long stems that
form a wide-spreading rosette.  It's used mainly in hanging baskets
because it has a tendency to cascade.  Smaller plants can be grown
in regular plastic or clay pots and then shifted to a hanging basket
later.  You'll probably want to put it in a eight or ten inch pot
when you transplant it.
   New plants develop at the base of every leaf and you can easily
root these and start more plants.  An easy way to root the piggyback
plant plants is to put the cutting or leaf into a pot of well-
drained soil...water it well and then put it in a plastic bag.  Tie
the top of the plastic bag and put it in indirect light.  The
rooting should take only two or three weeks.
   You can grow the piggyback plant in bright, moderate or low light
levels.  However, to keep from burning the leaves, you should not
put the piggyback plant in full sunlight.  Actually, the best place
for it is in an east or west window.  You can take the piggyback
plant outside in the middle of May and you should bring it back
indoors for the winter in late September.
   The soil for the piggyback plant should be kept evenly moist.
You'll want to check your plants every day and water them whenever
they need it.  If the soil feels dry, give the plant enough water so
that some of it drips from the base of the container.  Don't get
water on the leaves, especially during the hottest part of the day.
 
The piggyback plant will grow in a wide range of temperatures.   y.o.  A        
The average daily temperature should be above seventy degrees.  The
night temperatures can drop to between fifty and sixty degrees.
   The piggyback plant grows continuously during the year and
requires no dormant period.  So...it will need to be fertilized
regularly.  Fertilize your piggyback plant every month between May
and September and every six to eight weeks during the rest of the
year.  Use a complete, soluble fertilizer that is made for house
plants and the follow the manufacturer's recommendations.  Apply
enough fertilizer solution so that some of it drips from the base of
the container.
   Your piggyback plant may have some problems with spider mites.
They cause a yellowing and eventual browning of the leaves.  You
might find a fine web on plants severely infested with the insects.
You should try to control spider mites whenever you see the first
signs of them.  You should spray the piggyback plant with the
insecticides Malathion or Diazinon.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Rubber Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1014
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1014,
"Rubber Plants."
   The rubber plant grows well in a variety of conditions and is more
likely to outgrow its home than it is to die.
   The rubber plant likes warm temperatures...at night about sixty-five
degrees...and during the day about eighty degrees or more.  It adapts
quite easily to household or office temperatures provided they aren't
too cold.
   The rubber plant needs fairly rich soil and plenty of organic
matter.  A good soil mixture includes three parts peat and one part
perlite.  Another good mixture is one part peat, one part coarse sand,
and two parts fine pine bark.  Re-pot the plant when it needs
watering everyday or when it gets to be too big for its container.
   As for fertilization...you should apply a soluble fertilizer once a
month if the plant is exposed to a lot of light.  If it gets only
medium light you should fertilize it only every two months.
   If the rubber tree is cared for properly, its leaves will stay glossy
looking.  You'll need to gently wipe the leaves once in a while with a
moist tissue or soft cloth.  You can even use soap and water for spots
that are hard to remove.  Also, if you like for the leaves of your
rubber tree to look shiny you can wipe the leaves with a cloth
moistened with milk.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Schefflera. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/24/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1015
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1015,
"Schefflera."
   You're likely to see large scheffleras in public places such as
lobbies, shopping malls and waiting rooms.  The smaller plants are
more suitable for homes or offices.
   Scheffleras need medium to high levels of light.  So, as a rule of
thumb, put your plants in a place that would be bright enough for you
to read during the daytime without straining your eyes.
   Scheffleras usually require water when the soil surface looks dry.
Water the plant thoroughly so that at least ten percent of the water
you put in the pot drips through the drainage holes in the bottom of
the pot.  You should try to prevent root rot by avoiding wet soils.
   The temperature of the water is really important for tropical plants
such as the schefflera.  The water should be at room temperature and
it should be applied in the morning whenever possible.  However, don't
let the plant stand in water.
   Scheffleras thrive at temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees.  You
should try to keep the plant away from hot air registers, radiators,
open windows and air conditioners.
   Plants grown in intense light should be fertilized once a month.
Plants in medium light should be fertilized once every two to three
months.  If you use a soluble fertilizer, follow the manufacturer's
directions.  Never apply fertilizer to a dry soil.
   For more gardening information or suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Spider Plant. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/24/82
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1017
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1017,
"Spider Plant."
   The spider plant should be grown in diffused sunlight or partial
shade.  Exposure to full sunlight could burn the leaves.
   The soil mixture for spider plants should be kept moist but not
soaking wet.  There really is no schedule for watering the spider plant
because when and how much you water depends on the type and size
of the plant and the stage of growth that it's in.  You'll probably
want to check your spider plants everyday and then water them
whenever they need it.
   Spider plants grow best if the temperature is between 65 and 80
degrees.  But they can tolerate temperatures as low as 40 degrees.
During the winter you should protect those plants near windows by
pulling the shades or drapes or by placing newspaper between the
plants and the window.
   A complete soluble fertilizer should be applied twice a month if the
plants are growing in intense light during the summer and once a
month during the winter.  Be sure you follow the directions on the
label of the fertilizer.
   Leaf tip burn is a serious problem of the spider plant.  Perlite in
the soil can cause this.  It's the fluoride in the perlite that causes the
browning of the leaves.  Also, contributing to the leaf tip burn
problems are such things as dry soil, too much fertilizer and a lack of
calcium.  You can add calcium in the form of limestone at the rate of
two teaspoons to each six inch pot.
   Flower stalks sprout from the base of the plant and individual
planters develop at the point of attachment of each flower.  They can
be left on the plant or removed and potted separately to form new
plants.
 
For more gardening information or suggestions, call the county    canofthe      
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Zebra Plant. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/24/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1018
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1018,
"Zebra Plant."
   Zebra plants usually grow best in a soil mixture containing fifty
percent organic matter.  At least half of this organic matter should
be peat moss, since most other sources may be too rich in nutrients.
   A zebra plant needs to be kept moist...because if it drys out it
will die.  Enough water should be combined with good drainage.
   The zebra plant likes a room that is warm and humid.  It's a
tropical plant and it needs night temperatures of between 65 and 70
degrees...and day temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees.
   The plant will retain its lustrous foliage if it's fertilized
regularly...preferably every ten to fourteen days.  You should use a
balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20.  Follow the manufacturer's
recommendations.  Over-fertilization may cause the plant to grow
more slowly...or stunting...or burned, dried leaf margins or wilted
and even dead plants. Too little fertilizer may result in pale
foliage, leaf loss, few flowers, or shortened and hardened plants.
   The zebra plant must have good, strong, diffused light.  Direct
sunlight will burn the foliage.  With low light, the plant will not
flower or grow properly.
   You'll need to repot your zebra plant about once a year until it
finally gets to the largest size pot.  A rich soil is needed...a
good combination is one-fourth peat moss and three-fourths rich
loam.
 
If you want to show off the plants' beauty...use a soft, damp rag   nofthe      
to clean the leaves.  You can even use a leaf polish if you like.
   For more gardening information or suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Artificial Light for House Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1019
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1019,
"Artificial Light for House Plants."
   For house plants to thrive in artificial light, they need light of a
certain color, brightness and length of time.
   Light color is important when plants are growing under artificial
light.  They need light in the blue and red portions of the color
spectrum.  Common incandescent bulbs don't have enough blue, so
plants grown under them have long, weak stems, few leaves, and are
usually pale green.  Ordinary fluorescent lamps don't have enough red.
Plants grown under them are shrubby and have unusually dark leaves.
   Plants grown under artificial light will grow very well under a
mixture of light from cool white fluorescent and incandescent lamps.
A good rule is to have 30 percent of the wattage from incandescent
bulbs and 70 percent from fluorescent.  If you want to build your own
fixture, use two 40-watt cool white fluorescent tubes and 24 watts
from an incandescent source.  An alternative is to buy a fixture
designed especially for lighting plants.
   The level--or brightness--of light required for house plants is
important, too.  Light is measured in footcandles, and the light in
most homes seldom exceeds 100 footcandles.  A few house plants can
tolerate low levels of light if they're not in a dark corner.  These
include aluminum plants, pepperomia, most ferns, most palms and some
philodendrons.
   Most house plants need additional light to survive long in the
average home.  Older plants will shed leaves when they don't get
enough light.  New leaves which develop under low light conditions
are smaller and thinner. 
The plant growth lights which you can buy, and those you make,                  
will provide about 800 or 900 footcandles of light six to eight inches
from the source.  This is enough for the African violet, avocado,
geranium, cacti, gloxinia, Norfolk Island pine, orchid, poinsettia, citrus,
coleus, impatiens and most succulents.
   From 400 to 600 footcandles are enough for most bromeliads, jade
plants, some palms, most philodendrons, piggyback plants, rubber
plants, scheffleras, some succulents, zebra plants, spider plants, grape
ivy, dumbcane, wax plants, prayer plants and some ferns.
   Nine or 10 hours of light each day is generally enough for most
house plants.  But, if you are trying to get certain plants to bloom,
such as chrysanthemum or poinsettia, the lighting needs are specific.
   One final word on using artificial light for house plants:  If you're
trying only to maintain plants until you can get them back outside in
the spring, lighting can be less than ideal.  But if you want to keep
them growing rapidly and flowering profusely, you'll have to pay
attention to the quality, level or length of light specific plants need.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Common House plant Pests. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1020
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1020, "Common House plant Pests."
   Most of the insects which attack house plants, come from outside.
The most common group of these pests is scales and mealybugs.
Mealybugs are pink with white waxy filaments either decorating or
trailing from the body.  The most noticeable thing about them is the
fluffy, ragged, egg mass they usually lay in the joints between leaves
and stems or on the bottom side of leaves.  Mealybugs reproduce quite
easily and usually are difficult to control.
   Other scale insects are small oval or circular, brown specimens on
the foliage or stems.  Generally, you'll see them in large masses on
the plant.  One indication of an infestation is the shiny, sticky fluid
which the scales excrete on the plant or surrounding materials.  This
fluid...called honey dew...is the excess food the scale sucks out of the
plants.  This honey dew has a lot of sugar in it and provides an ideal
place for sootymold to grow.  Sootymold is the black fungus-type
growth that develops on the scale excretions.
   Mites also show up on house plants.  They're small spider-like
insects which cause a fading-type damage which results in the
bleaching of the foliage.  Eventually, the foliage will fall from the
plant.
   Several other insects also create problems for house plants, but
most of them are organic feeders or predators or other small insects.
These include springtails, fungus gnats and earwigs.
   Springtails are small insects you usually see jumping on the soil at
watering.  Fungus gnats are small, black, organic-feeding flies.
Earwigs are small, elongated, black or dark brown insects with the
pincers on the end of the abdomen.  These pincers are not likely to
hurt you.
 
Other pests may infest house plants are not insects...but are closely   us,     
related.  These include millipedes, centipedes, sow bugs and slugs.
The slugs are usually the only damaging pest because they feed on the
flowers and foliage of several plants.
   If you want more information and suggestions about controlling
insects in and around you home, call the county agent in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Container Plants, Summer Care. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/l7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1022
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1022,
"Container Plants, Summer Care."
   Container-grown plants grow well during the summer and as a
result require considerable attention.
   The most important thing you can do for your container plants
during the summer is be sure they get the water they need.  If the
containers have a good loose planting mix, you'll hardly ever over-
water the plants.  In fact, the most frequent problem is under-
watering.  One or two days without watering some plants may injure
or destroy them.
   How you put the water on the plant is important.  You need to
break the force of the water by using a breaker nozzle or letting the
water run through your fingers.  The hard, direct force of water on
the soil may wash some of it away from the roots or it may pack the
soil.
   Container plants need frequent applications of fertilizer during the
summer because this is the time they're really growing.  The most
effective fertilizer is usually a liquid fertilizer but other types can be
used.
   You can apply fertilizer as often as every two weeks during the
summer...but be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions.
   One word of caution:  you should reduce the amount and frequency
of applications for some flowering plants such as hibiscus and
bougainvillea.  A slight fertilizer stress will actually cause some
flowering plants to produce more flower buds. 
If you would like to have more information about taking care of                 
your container-grown plants or if you would like to have a free
pamphlet called "Container Plants in the Landscape," call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
 
                                parish office of the LSU Cooperative            
-End-
-Title-
Fertilizing Indoor Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1025
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1025,
"Fertilizing Indoor Plants."
   Many people over-fertilize indoor plants.  Too much fertilizer can
be harmful to plants.  In fact, it can kill them.
   Indoor plants need to be fed often, but in small amounts.  The
type, size and rate of growth desired should determine when to
fertilize indoor plants.  Plants grown indoors can be fed daily or every
three or four days.  The potting mixture will determine how often you
need to fertilize plants.  If plants are growing in a container that is
mostly bark, you'll need to fertilize them often.  If you feed plants
daily, use only one-third of the fertilizer you'd use if you fed them
every three days.
   Use a water-soluble fertilizer with a low salt or burn index to feed
indoor plants.  It can be a soluble solid or liquid fertilizer.  Most
indoor plants need a fertilizer high in nitrogen as compared to
phosphate and potash, for example, a 12-4-4 fertilizer.
   You should know that one-third teaspoon of fertilizer in a
container holding one gallon of soil is equal to applying 500 pounds
per acre, or 11.5 pounds per 1,000 square feet.  A good way to
prepare fertilizer for indoor plants is to put one teaspoon of fertilizer
in a quart of water and use only a teaspoon of this mixture in a six
inch pot.
   Remember to fertilize your indoor plants, but don't overdo it.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Moving Plants Indoors for the Winter. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/15/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1028
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1028,
"Moving Plants Indoors for the Winter."
   Autumn means cooler weather...and with the change of seasons you
may be preparing for the cold months of winter.  Part of your
preparation should include bringing your potted plants indoors.
Unfortunately, bringing plants indoors also brings insects indoors.
Insects may move onto your plants while they're outdoors during the
winter because of a lack of other food.
   When you bring your plants indoors to protect them, you also
protect any insects that happen to be on them.
   It's important that you carefully check your plants for insects
before you bring them inside because once they get inside, they feed
and multiply as though they were still outside.  Look for mealybugs,
scales, mites, whiteflies, snails and slugs.  Turn over leaves on each
plant and check all the stems...remove any litter on the top of the
soil.  Then to be on the safe side, you can use one of the aerosol
insecticides for indoor plants.
   Even with such measures some insects can get by, so for the first
month or two after you bring in your plants, spot check them every
week or ten days.  This way if you missed any the first time around,
you'll have another chance to get them before they do any serious
damage.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Indoor Plants," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Causes of Spotted Leaves. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/4/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1030
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1030,
"Causes of Spotted Leaves."
   Spots that appear on leaves of shrubs and trees may be caused by
fungi.  The spots can be tiny or large, circular or irregular, and may
cause color changes in affected areas of leaves.
   Many fungi can cause spotted leaves.  Most of these fungi have
spores that are carried by wind and rain.  The spores land on a leaf,
start to grow, and cause a spot to form.  Most plants aren't damaged
seriously if spots appear.  If leaves are damaged seriously, the plants
will simply shed them.  Spots often develop on older leaves which will
be shed anyway.  Under adverse conditions, such as prolonged rainy
periods, leaf spotting fungi can cause complete defoliation of some
plants.
   It's hard for the average homeowner to treat trees with protective
fungicides.  You must place these materials on trees before the spores
of leaf-spotting fungi can infect them.  It's hard to give good
coverage to a tree, especially if it's tall.  You must use special
sprayers to reach top parts of trees.  Another problem:  You must
keep these protective fungicides on trees constantly to prevent the
leaf-spotting fungi from getting started.  This means spraying regularly
for several months.  Unless the tree is valuable, it's not worth the
time and expense.
   You can spray shrubs and small fruit trees successfully with hand
sprayers.  If you have very susceptible plants, consider treating them.
When spraying the plants, be sure you cover the tops and bottoms of
leaves well.  
The fungicides don't kill fungal spores, but they do keep them from             
developing.  You'll need to cover all exposed areas to ensure that
infection won't take place.  Because most fungicides don't kill the
fungi, they won't be effective once the fungus enters the leaf.  That's
why it's necessary to spray regularly to protect plants.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the plants in
your landscape, call the county agent or home economist in your
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Yellow Leaves, Causes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/16/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1031
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1031,
"Yellow Leaves, Causes."
   When the leaves of a houseplant turn yellow, something is wrong
with the plant.  Without help, it may die.  Yellow leaves could mean
the plant needs nutrients or fertilizer.  It could mean the soil pH is
too low or too high.  Yellow leaves may mean the plant needs more
water -- or less.  Diseases or insects may have harmed the plant.  Or,
a combination of any of these problems could be to blame.
   The potting mixture of houseplants should allow excess water to
move through the container and out of it.  Plants that get too much
water may develop a yellowing of the leaf veins and the leaf tissue
along the veins.  This yellowing is caused when the roots don't get
enough oxygen.
   A general yellowing of the entire leaf is probably caused by low
nitrogen.  Try increasing the nitrogen fertilizer.  A yellowing of leaf
margins followed by a browning of the margin may indicate salt burn
from too much fertilizer.  Reduce the level of fertilizer used and flush
the potting mixture with excessive water.  This will help remove
fertilizer salts.
   High pH caused by too much lime can induce iron deficiency.  If
iron is limited, the leaf area between the veins will become yellow,
but the leaf veins will remain green.  This condition is called iron
chlorosis.  It can be cured by adding a little iron chelate to the
mixture.  Only minute quantities of this material are needed.  Put it
in the potting soil or spray it on the plant in a weak solution.  If you
spray, repeat application in two or three days, then every two or
three weeks as needed. 
If the leaves of your houseplants are yellowing, review how you've              
treated the plants.  You may be able to solve the problem and save
the plants.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Indoor Plants," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Re-potting House Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/15/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1032
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1032,
"Re-potting House Plants."
   Both spring and fall are good times to re-pot your house plants.
Re-potting gives their roots a chance to spread and it provides them
with new soil in which to grow.
   How often you re-pot your plants depends on how fast the plants
grow.  Active plants may need larger pots every year while the slower
growing plants may need repotting only every two or three years.
When you do re-pot, though, you should go up one pot size each time.
   Here's how you go about repotting a plant.  Several hours before
you're ready to re-pot the plant...water it thoroughly.  After you've
waited the several hours, turn the pot and the plant upside down and
gently tap the pot to loosen the plant from the container.  Never pull
a plant and its soil ball out by the stem.
   If the roots of the plant are heavily matted, loosen the ball to
remove about half the old outer soil.  This will encourage new roots
to grow away from the tight circular pattern.
   Soil for house plants must drain well.  A good potting mixture is
one that contains enough organic matter and coarse soil particles to
allow good drainage and enough air for the roots to form and grow
well.  Most house plants will grow in a soil made of five parts of
good garden loam soil, four parts peat moss or leaf mold and one part
sharp builder's sand.
 
After the plant has been removed from the pot and the soil is    partl          
prepared, place the plant in the new pot, holding it at about the same
depth it was in the old pot.  Add potting mixture around the plant,
gently packing it to eliminate air pockets.  You need to leave at least
a half inch of space at the top of the container for water.
   After the plant is re-potted, water it thoroughly and don't wet it
again until the surface becomes slightly dry.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Indoor Plants," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Agapanthus. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1102
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1102,
"Agapanthus."
   Agapanthus...also called African Lily and Lily of the Nile...bears
large, round heads of blue or white flowers on long, stout stems
during May.  It comes in standard and dwarf varieties.  The
evergreen leaves of the standard varieties are long and strap-shaped
and look like large amaryllis leaves.  The stem holding the head of
flowers may be three feet long or longer.  The dwarf varieties...called
"Peter Pan" are about half the size of the standard varieties.
   Lily of the Nile is commonly grown in ground beds in south
Louisiana where the temperature doesn't usually get much lower than
18 degrees.  However, in areas where the temperatures drop below 18
degrees, the Lily of the Nile may be grown in large wooden or plastic
containers.  Container-grown plants can be placed outside in a sunny
spot or in a spot with some shade...but only after the danger of hard
freezes has passed.
   The Lily of the Nile needs a well-drained, humus type soil.  The
ideal mixture would be made of two parts loamy soil, one part leaf
mold, and one part well-decayed manure.
   During the summer, be prepared to give the Lily of the Nile plenty
of water.  During the winter give it just enough to keep the soil from
becoming very dry.
   When the Lily of the Nile is grown in containers, it should receive
liquid fertilizer once a week.  When it's grown in a bed, you should
fertilize it once in the spring, once in early summer and once in the
fall.
   Lily of the Nile blooms freely in pots and ground beds when they
become crowded and it may stay in the same container or bed for
years.           However, the Lily of the Nile may be dug and
divided anytime during the warm months...the best time is during
August.
   If you would like to have more information about growing
agapanthus, call the county agent or home economist in your parish
office of the LSU Cooperative Extension service.
                               
 
                               xtension service.ist in your parishyheed         
-End-
-Title-
Azaleas, Summer Care. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1104
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1104,
"Azaleas, Summer Care."
   During the summer after azaleas have bloomed and the weather is
getting hotter, your azalea plants may begin showing symptoms of
illness...symptoms you can and should give some attention.
   The most common problem of azaleas during the late spring and
early summer is chlorosis.  Chlorosis causes the parts of the leaves
between the vein to turn yellow while the veins stay dark green.
Chlorosis is caused by too little iron and can be corrected by adding
aluminum sulfate to the soil.  You should apply the aluminum sulfate
at the rate of about one-fourth to one-half pound for every square
yard of soil surface.  Be careful not to put more than that at any
one time because the chemical could injure the plant.  You should not
apply aluminum sulfate more than every six weeks and it should be
stopped when the chlorosis has cleared up.
   There is also a temporary way to get rid of chlorosis.  You can
spray the leaves of your azaleas with a solution containing chelated
iron.  Follow the directions on the container.
   Your azaleas need to get enough water during the summer.  You
should watch for wilting during the hot, dry weather.  A good,
thorough soaking of the soil around the roots once a week should be
enough to keep your azaleas going.  A mulch of pine needles or
compost will help keep the moisture in the soil.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Azaleas," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                               ooperative Extension Service.nomist ined         
-End-
-Title-
Begonias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  New Orleans Only

                           TeleTip ll06
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number ll06,
"Begonias."
   Begonias produce color...and lots of it.  The versatility of begonias
has been increased by the introduction of hybrid fibrous begonias.
They can grow in moderate shade and in full sun.  Colors of flowers
are varied...white, pink, red, salmon, rose and bi-colors.  Flowers can
be small or as large as two inches across.  The color of the foliage
can be bronze or green.
   Fibrous begonias are used in mass plantings, in hanging baskets, in
pots and as border plants.  They'll flower all summer...in fact, until
they're killed by heavy frost.
   Begonias must be planted each year.  In New Orleans, plant them
outdoors in mid-March.  Most commercial bedding plant growers have
excellent stocky plants in small containers.  They're easy to set out
with a minimum of plant shock.
   To prepare the planting area, apply a complete fertilizer such as 8-
8-8 at the rate of two pounds per l00 square feet.  Spade or till the
soil to a depth of eight inches...working in organic matter such as
peat moss, pine bark or sawdust.  You'll need to fertilize heavy,
vigorous, flowering begonias during the season.  Use one to two
pounds of 8-8-8 per l00 square feet of growing area.  Water the area
thoroughly after fertilizing.
   When you're setting out begonias, lift them gently from their
containers, keeping the soil ball intact.  This helps prevent root
damage.  If the plants are growing in peat moss pots, you can plant
the pot itself.  Set the pot slightly below the soil line so it won't dry
out.  Begonias grown in mass plantings should be spaced 10 to 12
inches apart for maximum color.
 
After you've planted your begonias, water them thoroughly.  After   t dry       
that, water them only when the soil begins to dry out.  It's best to
water the plants early in the day.  Deep, healthy root systems develop
with thorough watering.  Water at the soil level instead of sprinkling.
Water left on foliage overnight encourages disease.
   Fibrous begonias benefit from mulch.  Mulching slows the
evaporation of water from the soil surface and keep weeds down.
Good mulches are pine straw, peat moss and pine bark.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
 Caladiums, Digging. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1108
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1108,"
Caladiums, Digging."
   Your caladiums should be dug, cleaned and stored for winter before
the frost and cold weather have a chance to hit them.  You'll replant
them in April.
   When you begin to dig caladiums you should loosen the soil the
caladiums are growing in and you should take the caladium bulb from
the soil with the foliage intact.  Shake most of the soil away and
then place the bulbs in a dry place and let the foliage dry down for
two or three weeks...then the foliage can be separated from the bulbs
fairly easily.
   You can clean the bulbs by washing them in water...after they're
clean, they should be air-dried for several days in a place with good
ventilation.  After the bulbs are dry, they're ready for storage.
Throw away any of the bulbs that appear to be rotten or have soft
spots.
   You should store caladium bulbs in a cool, well-ventilated place
that is not likely to freeze.  Hard freezes can break down the bulbs
and when you get ready to plant them in the spring you'll end up
with mush instead of bulbs.
   Generally, putting the bulbs in a nylon stocking or in a mesh bag
such as onion sack and hanging them in your utility room is a good
way to store them over the winter.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Caladiums, Growing. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1109
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1109,
"Caladiums, Growing."
   You can choose your caladiums in April so you'll be ready to
plant them when the nights become warmer and the days begin to look
like summer.  The caladium bulb should be planted in moderately
rich, well-prepared soil in a shaded or partially shaded location.
   The caladium is rugged, but it won't tolerate the hot summer sun.
It likes soil that is moist but not soggy.
   The caladium bulbs should be planted two inches deep and about 18
inches apart.  Pack the soil firmly around them.
   If you start your caladiums early indoors, or if you purchase
sprouted bulbs in pots, you will need to harden them to outdoor
conditions before you plant.  Harden them by gradually exposing them
to outdoor light and temperatures.
   You have a wide choice of colors of caladiums.  Regardless of the
color, caladiums are most showy and effective when you use the same
variety or color for large displays.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
 
                                parish office of the LSU Cooperativedg.ry       
-End-
-Title-
Camellias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1110
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1110,
"Camellias."
   Camellias bloom when few other plants are blooming...in late fall,
and in the winter and early spring.  Two species of camellias grow in
Louisiana.  One is called camellia japonica..the other is camellia
sasanqua.  It blooms in October and November.
   There are many varieties of camellias.  Their flowers are brilliant
shades of pink, red, and white.  There are single blooms and double
blooms, and some flowers can reach five inches in diameter.
   Camellias need a site where they get alternating sun and shade in
the summer and complete shade and protection from winds in the
winter.  A good site is under tall pine trees or on the north side of a
building.  Fall is the best time to plant camellias.
   Like other shrubs grown in the shade, camellias have shallow roots.
They don't like wet feet...so add plenty of organic matter to the
planting hole, mound the soil around the newly set plants, and mulch
heavily.  Camellias grow best in loose soil that is slightly acid...a P-H
of between 5 and 5.5 is recommended.
   During the first growing season, camellias need a light application
of fertilizer.  Apply fertilizer in the spring after growth starts.  After
the first growing season, the organic matter will probably provide
enough nutrients for the plants.  Too many homeowners over-fertilize
camellias.  This results in a loose, open growth that spoils the
compact appearance of the plant.
 
Camellias are normally pruned to a height of seven to ten feet and   After      
they're allowed to spread four to six feet.  So, if you plant them near
a building, be sure they're at least four feet from the foundation.
Space the plants about six feet apart when you're planting a hedge.
When plants mature, this will give you a dense screen.  The best time
to prune camellias is right after they have bloomed.  Make pruning
cuts back to a bud or larger branch.  Be sure to cut away all dead,
diseased or injured wood.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Camellias," call the county agent or home economist
in your parish office of the LSU Coopertive Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Chrysanthemums. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1112
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1112,
"Chrysanthemums."
   The chrysanthemums should be planted in the spring...but you'll
enjoy their flowers during the fall.
   New plants will produce the best chrysanthemums, but old plants
can be used if you divide them by cutting away the outer shoots.
   Chrysanthemums like soil that is well-drained and although they
will grow in almost any kind of soil, they perform best in soil with a
high organic content.  And, your chrysanthemums should be planted
where they will get as much sun as possible.
   If you have enough space, it's best to grow chrysanthemums in a
different spot each year.  If you don't have the space, take the old
plants out of the bed, re-work the soil, fertilize it and then reset the
plants in the same place.
   You should space the plants about twelve to twenty-four inches
apart.  You can space them further apart if you like, but they should
never be closer than twelve inches.
   The right amount of water will have more to do with whether or
not your chrysanthemums are successful than anything else.  Too little
water will slow their growth or stop it completely.  It is especially
important that they have plenty of water when they bloom.
   The amount of fertilizer your chrysanthemums need will depend on
the kind of soil they're in...but, generally, you should use from one to
one-and-a-half pounds of a complete fertilizer for every hundred feet
of growing area.  The term "complete fertilizer" means one such as 8-
8-8 or 10-10-10. 
Insect and disease on chrysanthemums are relatively few.  The                   
disease you're most likely to see on mums is septoria leaf spot.  It
causes the lower leaves to become spotted and then brown.  You can
control septorial leaf spot on your mums by spraying them every ten
to twelve days with either Phaltan or Benlate.  You should use one
tablespoon of either of these chemicals for each gallon of water.
   The insects you're likely to see on chrysanthemums are aphids and
spider mites.  They feed on the leaves by sucking out the juices.  You
can control aphids and spider mites with the insecticides Diazinon or
Malathion.  You should use two teaspoons of either of these chemicals
for each gallon of water.  You can apply the insecticide at the same
time you apply the fungicide.
   Occasionally, caterpillars will eat the leaves and flowers of
chrysanthemums.  You can control caterpillars with an insecticide dust
called Sevin.
   If you would like for your chrysanthemums to branch more and
produce more flowers, you should pinch off the top 1/4 or 1/2 inch of
the plant after it is established in the bed.  This is usually seven to
fourteen days after planting.  Do not pinch or prune chrysanthemums
after July 20.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Chrysanthemums," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
 
                                of the LSU Cooperative Extensionumsn to         
-End-
-Title-
Coleus. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/16/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1113
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1113,
"Coleus."
   Coleus is one of the most important plants you can use in the
shady parts of your garden.  Coleus also performs well in sunny areas
as long as the soil is well drained and moist.  Some of the more
interesting types of coleus developed in recent years include Fiji,
Saber, Carefree and Rainbow.  All of these have interesting leaf
colors and shapes.
   Coleus can be planted in a number of situations...in mass plantings,
as border plants...or in tubs, planters and hanging baskets.  Several of
the coleus types grow compactly since they are self-branching.  Other
types require a minimum of pinching to keep them bushy.
   Although some coleus can be started from seed, it is suggested that
you purchase your plants already started in peat pots so that you will
be able to see what kinds of leaves and color you're buying.
   Just as with other flowering bedding plants, coleus should be
planted in soil that is well drained.  Flower bed soils should be
loosened to a depth of about eight inches.  Some organic matter
should be added to the soil each year.  You shouldn't plant coleus
until after the danger of frost has passed.
   Since coleus becomes rather bushy during the growing season, you
need to leave enough room for them when you're planting them.
Usually, coleus are planted about 18 inches apart.  Don't set the small
plants too deeply.  The soil should be at the same level as that in the
bed or container in which the coleus is being planted.
 
Never allow coleus to wilt severely.  The plants need at least one   hef        
inch of water per week either from rain or irrigation.  Try not to
water the plants during the hottest part of the day.  Usually, early
morning watering is best since the leaves have a chance to dry before
night.
   As for fertilizer, you should work two pounds of 8-8-8 per 100
square feet of soil in the planting area while you are preparing the
soil.  You should apply a top dressing of about one pound of 8-8-8 per
100 square feet in mid-June and late August.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Dahlias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed: 2/15/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1115
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1115,
"Dahlias."
   The dahlia is an excellent flower for your garden because it grows
vigorously and produces a lot of beautiful flowers.  Best of all, dahlias
are relatively free of diseases and insects.  The one insect you are
likely to see on dahlias is the Japanese beetle.
   There are, of course, many small types of dahlias and many large
types.  The best way to find out what is available in your area is to
check at your nearest garden center.
   The single dahlias look like large daisies with eight petals...either
white or colored.  The collarette varieties are similar to the single
varieties, but they have an extra row of short petals around the
center disc of the flower.  Then, there are orchid-flowered dahlias
which have graceful forms with eight petals curled into attractive
pointed tubes.
   New colors and forms are also available in the double varieties.
The large decorative types have flowers which are eight to twelve
inches across.  Ball dahlias have compact round flowers from four to
six inches in diameter.  Pompom types are like small balls about two
inches or less in diameter.
   The new cactus varieties are very attractive and particularly nice
in flower arrangements.
   But, what about growing dahlias...well, dahlias grow best in deep,
fertile, well-drained soil in the sun.  Dahlias are easily damaged by
cold weather...so, the cluster of roots shouldn't be separated and
planted until after the last killing frost.
 
When you're planting dahlias, you should space them three or four   yhers       
feet apart if you want large exhibition flowers.  For small flowers in
beds or for cuttings, the plants may be about two feet apart.
   These root pieces should be planted on the side about five inches
deep. Cover them with about two inches of soil and fill the rest of
the hole as the shoots develop.
   Dahlias must have enough water if they're to grow vigorously and
produce a lot of flowers.  Using a mulch of peat moss will help
conserve soil moisture during dry periods.
   When you're planting the dahlias, fertilize them with one-half cup
of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant.  The fertilizer should be put in the soil
around the plant.
   As the dahlias begin to bloom, remove faded flowers to encourage
continuous blooming.  If you want large blooms, allow only one stalk
per root to develop.  Remove all small, weak sprouts and when the
shoot is about six inches tall, pinch it back to about the third set of
leaves to promote branching.
   Only four main branches should be allowed to develop on large
flowering varieties.  As the stems grow they should be tied to a stake
to keep them from breaking.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Daylily 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/2/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1118
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1118,
"Daylily"
   Landscapes that sparkle with beautiful arrays of daylilies aren't
happenstance, they're often the result of discarding mediocre plants
and keeping the best specimens.
   Mid-June is an excellent time to observe blooms and decide which
varieties should be tagged and retained to enhance the beauty of their
setting.  By carefully observing variety performance, flowering can be
enjoyed through late summer because some specimens produce two
seasons of bloom.
   In re-designing your landscape, keep in mind there are some
daylilies which become dormant, die back with winter's cold and return
in the spring.  Others remain green year-round.  Some evergreen
varieties include Dorcas, War Eagle, Cosette, Playboy, Quincy, Golden
Dewdrop, Grand Canyon, and Salmon Sheen.
   Besides standard varieties, there are also dwarf daylilies for border
plantings, planter boxes and other limited planting areas.  The dwarfs
grow to 18 inches while standard varieties reach three feet.
   Daylilies are popular with gardeners because they bloom well in
sunlight or filtered shade, require only a moderate amount of fertilizer
and very little care.  The plants multiply rapidly, in time overcrowd
themselves and require digging and separating.  Because of their
multiplying feature, many daylily lovers have improved their landscapes
by trading their spare plants with friends.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Geraniums, Garden Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  New Orleans Only

                           TeleTip 1124
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1124,
"Geraniums, Garden Plants."
   Geraniums are popular flowering plants because they are colorful,
easy to grow and adapt to a variety of situations.  They grow in
containers or beds.  They come in various shapes and sizes and can be
used around the house, patio and garden.
   In New Orleans, geraniums are winter-hardy in mild winters if they
are in protected locations, but they are especially lovely in spring,
summer and fall.
   Several types of geraniums can be grown in New Orleans.  Zoral,
or bedding, geraniums are used for decorative purposes in garden beds
or in containers.
   Ivy-leaved geraniums produce trailing, vine like growth which is
attractive in hanging baskets.
   Scented-leaved geraniums can be grown for their varied fragrances
and for the unusual shape of their leaves.
   Don't plant Lady Washington geraniums in New Orleans.  They will
not produce their multicolored flowers in hot weather.
   Most soils in Louisiana need a lot of organic matter to make them
suitable for geraniums.  Leafmold, compost and peat moss are good
sources of organic matter.  When preparing the beds, incorporate two
to four pounds of 8-8-8 fertilizer for each 100 square feet of area.
Don't plant geraniums outdoors until danger of frost has passed.
   Although six to eight hours of sunlight each day are usually
enough, most geraniums grow and flower best in full sunlight.  In
locations with light to moderate shade, they will have fewer flowers.
Often, however, high summer temperatures cause new leaves to be
yellow and fewer flowers to be produced.         Geraniums need
large amounts of water to grow and flower well.  Apply the water to
the soil.  Don't sprinkle or splash water on the leaves.  It may be
necessary to apply fertilizer in the summer.  If so, about August 1,
apply two to three pounds of 8-8-8 per 100 square feet.  Remember:
The soil should be moist when you apply fertilizer.  If fertilizer falls
on plants, wash it off immediately or leaves will be damaged.
   For best results, apply two to three inches of mulch around plants.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Gladiolus. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  New Orleans Only

                           Tele-Tip 1125
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1125,
"Gladiolus."
   Gladiola thrive best in an open, sunny location.  Don't plant bulbs
near large shrubs or trees because of shade and competition for
moisture and plant food.  It's a good idea to change the location of
gladiola plantings every year, if possible.  This will help prevent
disease.  Try not to plant galdiola on the same land for more than one
year out of four.
   The soil for gladiolus can be improved greatly by adding organic
matter.  Organic matter adds body to sandy soil, improves its capacity
to hold water, and keeps plant nutrients from being washed away.
Organic matter added to clay soil improves aeration and the general
physical condition of the soil.
   Fertilize soil with 1 to 2 pounds of 5-20-20 per 100 square feet.
Extra nitrogen may be needed later in the growing season.  Apply
one-half pound of ammonium sulfate per 100 feet of row just before
the spikes push through the leaves.
   The so-called bulb of a gladiola is really a corm (c-o-r-m).  The
gladiolus corm lives only one year, but a new corm is formed each
year on top of the old one.  A number of small corms are formed at
the base of the new corm; these are called cormels (c-o-r-m-e-l-s).
   Corms vary in size according to age and the conditions under
which they are grown.  The are graded by their diameter.
   Plant gladiola from early February to mid-March in the New
Orleans area.  Successive plantings at two-week intervals will provide
flowers for several weeks.  Space the corms six inches apart in rows
about three feet apart.  In light soils, cover large corms with four to
five inches of soil.  In heavy soils, cover the corms with three to four
inches of soil.  In summer, cultivate between the rows to keep weeds
down.  Cultivation also prevents the formation of a hard crust on the
surface.  Instead of cultivating, you may want to apply a mulch.  This,
too, will conserve moisture and prevent weeds.
   Water when the soil is beginning to dry, and be sure to give the
plants a good soaking so water will reach the root zone.
Overwatering creates ideal conditions for disease organisms, however.
   The best time to cut gladiola is in the early morning or evening.
Place blooms in water as soon as possible.  Keep them cool.  Spikes
are usually cut when one or two blooms at the bottom are open.
Leave as many leaves as possible on the plant.  The leaves will
manufacture food for the developing new corms.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the home
economist or county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Impatiens. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1128
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1128,
"Impatiens."
   Impatiens are the perfect flowering annual to plant in a shady area.
They'll provide color for your landscape all summer long.  Impatiens
are attractive when they're grown in mass plantings, in tubs or in
hanging baskets.
   A new series that you may want to plant is called Fantasia.  It
grows about 12 inches tall and comes in 10 bright colors.  Another
series is Elfin, which grows 8 to 10 inches tall and comes in 12
colors.  Futura is a free flowering plant which grows up to a foot tall
and comes in nine colors.  Twinkles is a bi-color impatiens which
grows 10 to 12 inches tall.  Twinkles comes in four colors.  Another
new series is Minette, which grows eight to ten inches tall and comes
in six colors.
   Impatiens don't require pinching because they're self-branching.
Each plant spreads considerably during the growing season...so allow
plenty of space for them to grow.  Leave 18 to 24 inches between
plants.  Don't plant impatiens until the danger of frost has passed.
   Impatiens need a soil that will hold the plants securely in place,
release plant food to the roots slowly over a long period, retain
moisture and let surplus water drain away rapidly.  You can improve
soil by adding organic matter such as peat moss, sawdust or pine bark.
   Impatiens grow rapidly and need to be fertilized.  Incorporate two
to three pounds of 8-8-8 per 100 square feet of bed area when you
prepare soil for planting.  Topdress the bed with one pound of 8-8-8
per 100 square feet in mid-June and about August 1.
 
Choose stocky, well-branched plants when you're buying them.  You   o.lrl       
can transplant those growing in peat pots without injuring the roots.
Leave the plants in the peat pots and plant them so the soil in the
pots is at the same level as the soil in the garden.  Water thoroughly
right after planting to settle the soil around the pots.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Marigolds. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                            Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  New Orleans Only

                           TeleTip 1131
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1131,
"Marigolds."
   Marigolds are a popular bedding plant...and it may be because of
the new and improved varieties that have been developed.  The bright
yellow, bronze and orange flowers come in many sizes and include
both single and double blooms.
   The dwarf marigolds are excellent foreground plants.  The
intermediate size is used for bedding plants and for cut flowers.  The
large marigolds are suitable for background plants and for cut flowers.
   Space the smallest marigolds from 12 to 14 inches apart...the
intermediate sizes, 20 to 24 inches apart...and the tall marigolds, 30 to
36 inches apart.  Marigolds are hardy, so you can plant them earlier
than other bedding plants.  In the New Orleans area, you can plant
marigolds about March 15.
   Spade the soil to a depth of six to eight inches.  Incorporate a
two-inch layer of organic matter into the soil to insure good drainage,
aeration and water-holding capacity.  Plant marigolds in areas that
receive full sun.
   Marigolds that grow vigorously need fertilizing regularly.  Start
with an application of two pounds of 8-8-8 fertilizer per l00 square
feet.
   Marigolds will tolerate short periods of drought, but don't let the
soil get too dry.  Don't over-water the plants either.  You get the
best flowers when the soil is watered weekly with one inch of water.
This will wet the soil to a depth of six or eight inches.
 
Marigolds can be grown from seed, but the most popular and    water.he,to       
satisfactory way to grow them is to buy small plants in peat pots.
Set the plants so that the top of the soil in the peat pot is at the
same level as the soil in the garden.  Water the soil thoroughly after
planting so it will settle around the peat pot.
   It's not necessary to pinch marigolds back because they will branch
as they grow.  You might want to stake the tallest plants because
they are vulnerable to strong winds and rain.
   Some people don't like the scent of marigolds, but if you don't
object to their odor, you can use the larger blooms as cut flowers.
They'll stay fresh for a long time. Also, they're pretty when they're
combined with flowers of other colors and varieties.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Roses, Culture. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1132
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1132, "Roses, Culture."
   Roses aren't easy to grow...but your chances of success with roses
will increase considerably if you follow these suggestions.
   Choose a well-drained site where your roses will receive full sun
for at least half the day.  The best soil for roses is a rich, clay loam,
slightly acid with a high organic content.
   You can plant roses in later winter here in Louisiana.  They can
also be planted in the spring if they are container-grown plants.
   When you're setting out your plants, dig the hole large enough for
the roots to spread out in their natural position.  Make the hole deep
enough so that the "nub" or crook in the main stem where the plant
was budded is one inch above the surface after the soil settles.  The
soil mixture in the planting hole should be about one-fourth peat moss
or well-rotted manure.
   Roses need a lot of food, and cow manure is one of the best
fertilizers you can use.  On established plantings, work two or three
inches of cow manure into the soil around the plants in early spring.
When the first flower buds appear, spread two or three pounds of 8-8-
8 fertilizer or the equivalent per 100 square feet.  Work the fertilizer
into the soil and water it thoroughly so the fertilizer will soak down
to the roots.  If you have mulched your roses, you can put the
fertilizer on top of the mulch if you water it thoroughly afterward.
Apply 8-8-8 every two months until early fall.  You can use liquid
fertilizer on roses, but be sure it's diluted properly.  If it's too
concentrated, it will injure the plants.
 
The method and amount of pruning you'll do on your roses will    toowner,       
depend on what type they are.  As a rule, to maintain healthy growth,
prune the weak-growing varieties lightly and the vigorous varieties
more severely.
   Prune roses from late January to mid-February to a height of 15-18
inches above ground level.  A late August or early September pruning
is recommended, too.  At this time, prune the roses to a height of 24
to 30 inches above the ground.
   For more specific information about pruning roses, ask for Tele-Tip
number 1137, "Pruning Roses."
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Roses," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pansies. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1133
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1133,
"Pansies."
   Pansies are among the most popular garden flowers you can
grow...and even though they get to be only four to eight inches high
they display a remarkable amount of color.
   Even though pansies bloom in the spring...they should be planted in
late October and November.  So, you should prepare the beds you're
going to put the pansies in during the middle of October.  You should
put the beds in the sun or partial shade and you should work the soil
to a depth of about eight to twelve inches.  Work in organic materials
such as peatmoss, leafmold, or compost.  If at all possible, raise the
bed several inches above the rest of the soil...this will help the bed
drain better.
   A couple of weeks before you plant the pansies, you should
fertilize the soil with a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10.
You should put about a pound of fertilizer for each fifty square feet
of bed you intend to plant with pansies.
   If you would like more information about pansies call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Petunias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1134
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1134,
"Petunias."
   An old favorite...the petunia is probably the most important
flowering annual planted in gardens today.  It's quite versatile and can
be used as an accent plant, in a hanging basket, as a border plant, in
combination with other plants and in mass plantings.
   You can choose from many colors...pink, salmon, red, rose, blue,
purple, orange, yellow and white.  Interesting bi-colors are available in
both single and double flowering types, too.
   Petunias are available wherever bedding plants are sold...grocery
stores, discount stores, garden centers, chain stores and hardware
stores.
   Plant petunias in an area that has good light.  They will tolerate
some shade, however.  The soil should be well-drained, aerated and it
should have the capacity to retain moisture without becoming
waterlogged.  Clay and sandy soils can be improved by adding
peatmoss, rotted manure or sawdust.  The soil P-H should be between
6 and 6.5.  Have the soil tested to determine its P-H level and its
possible need for lime.
   Plant petunias after the danger of frost has passed.  Don't crowd
them.  They make a large plant during the course of the growing
season.  Plant petunias shallowly.  Deep planting usually results in
stem or root rot.
   Fertilize the petunia bed before you set out the plants.  Fertilize
with three pounds of 8-8-8 per 100 square feet.  Work the fertilizer
into the top six inches of soil.  Apply 8-8-8 a second time at the
same rate in late May or early June.
   Petunias don't like hot weather, so if you want to grow them in
the summer, plant them in the coolest location in your
garden...preferably where they'll get only morning sun.
   Don't let the soil your petunias are in dry out.  They need an inch
of water each week...either from irrigation or rainfall.
   If you cut your plants back in early August to a height of nine to
twelve inches, they'll provide excellent fall blooms...even more vivid
than their summer colors.  Petunias can survive several frosts, so they
may bloom until late October or early November.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Grow Annuals," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Roses, Disease Control. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1135
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1135, "Roses, Disease Control."
   Black spot, a fungus disease, is the most widely distributed and
most destructive disease of roses in Louisiana.  This disease, combined
with powdery mildew, causes rose growers a lot of concern.  Black
spot and powdery mildew cause leaves to shed prematurely.
Continuous shedding of leaves shortens the life of the bud and limits
the number and quality of the flowers the plant can produce.
   You can recognize black spot by the nearly circular black spots
with frayed or fringed margins.  Spots vary from one or two...to a
dozen or more on a leaf...usually on the upper side.  The spots enlarge
from pinhead size to the size of a dime...and as they enlarge they may
run together to form irregular blotches on the leaves.  An entire leaf
may become yellow or there may be a yellow area around individual
spots.
   Leaf shed follows... often with two or three sets of leaves being
lost in a season.  Although the leaf spotting is ugly...the most serious
effect on the plant is the premature shedding of leaves.  This reduces
the vigor of the plants.
   Black spot overwinters...that is...it lives through the winter on
fallen leaves and in dead areas of diseased canes.  In late fall, you
should prune all dead or dying canes or stems.  This removes the
overwintering source of the fungus that causes the black spot disease.
Make pruning cuts four-to-six inches below any obvious sign of
damage and close to a bud.  This reduces the likelihood of common
canker development.
 
Rake up and burn the material that has been pruned.  Burn all   nease.usn       
dead
rose leaves, too.  Sanitation will help prevent the spread of the
disease, but it will not completely control black spot.
   Powdery mildew usually appears in the late spring or early summer
and is considered a hot weather disease.  The white covering of the
fungus growth covers young buds which results in no blooms or
distorted flowers.  Leaves may curl slightly or become blistered and
then show signs of the white powdery fungus growth.  The disease can
occur on leaves, buds and canes causing a stunting and twisting of the
new growth.
   To control black spot of roses and powdery mildew you must follow
a regular, weekly preventive fungicide spray schedule during the
growing season.  Begin spraying when leaves first appear in the
spring.
   There are many fungicides available which may be used alone or in
combination for black spot and powdery mildew.  More important,
however, is the timeliness and thoroughness of the applications.
   Benomyl or Benlate, Maneb and Funginex can be used to control
rose diseases.  Alternating these chemicals is especially effective.
   For more information about taking care of your roses, call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Roses, Fertilization. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1136
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1136,
"Roses, Fertilization."
   Roses can use large quantities of nutrients, so they respond
favorably to deep, thoroughly prepared soil and plenty of plant food.
   Cow manure can be used, but not in large quantities.  If the
manure is only partially decomposed and you use a lot of it...the plant
roots may be injured.  For best results, work two or three inches of
completely rotted  cow manure into the soil each spring.
   Another good fertilizer is 8-8-8.  Spread 8-8-8 on the top of the
soil at the rate of two to three pounds per 100 square feet of soil
surface.  Work in into the upper one or two inches of the soil.
   When you're fertilizing established roses, follow these
suggestions...in late winter, apply 1/8 to 1/4 pound of a complete
fertilizer for each plant.  Spread it between the plants.  Cultivate the
upper one or two inches of soil while you work the fertilizer into the
ground.  Water the plants thoroughly.  The water should soak down to
the roots.  If your roses are mulched, spread the fertilizer over the
mulch and water it into the soil.
   Apply additional nitrogen in late June or early July.  Use either
one ounce of ammonium nitrate or two ounces of nitrate of soda for
each plant.  Spread fertilizer over the bed and water it into the soil.
Applying two ounces of a complete fertilizer to each plant after the
fall pruning is beneficial, too.
   Commercial rose fertilizers are available...and they are usually good.
Follow the manufacturer's directions for applying them.  Liquid
fertilizers are practical and satisfactory.  By using a liquid fertilizer
you can fertilize and water the roses in one operation because you
apply the fertilizer with an attachment to your water hose.
 
Be careful your you're using soluble fertilizers.  These concentrated   r       
fertilizers must be diluted properly.  If they're too strong, they will
injure your roses.  Liquid fertilizer that remains on the foliage after
fertilizing should be washed off unless it is specifically recommended
for foliar feeding.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Roses," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pruning Roses. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1137
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1137,
"Pruning Roses."
   Roses fall into two broad groups...recurrent flowering roses and
climbing roses.
   The recurrent flowering roses begin to flower in the spring and
continue to flower until frost if they're healthy.  This group includes
hybrid teas, grandifloras and floribundas.  Climbing roses include
rambling roses and those called plain climbers.  You'll need to learn
the difference between the two groups because they're pruned
differently.
   Recurrent flowering roses should be pruned in late winter...before
growth starts.  Remove diseased and injured wood first.  Make your
cuts in healthy tissue well below the point of injury of disease.  Then,
choose three, four or five good canes that you will keep and remove
all the others.  The canes you leave should be cut back, too.  The
natural vigor of the variety will determine how much you cut them
back.  Prune vigorous varieties severely and weak-growing varieties
lightly.
   For example...Charlotte Armstrong is a vigorous hybrid tea.  Canes
left on it should be 15 to 18 inches long.  Chrysler Imperial, on the
other hand, is a weaker hybrid tea.  Leave the canes on this variety
16 to 24 inches long.
   In Louisiana, where roses grow vigorously, prune roses again in late
August or early September.  This time, prune plants to 24 to 30 inches
above the ground.
 
Climbing roses, old fashioned roses and rambling roses should be   hese,r       
pruned right after they flower in April or May.  Remove...at ground
level...the canes that have just finished blooming.  The next spring you
may want to snip back growth on the new canes.  The amount of
snipping should depend on what you expect of your climbing roses.  If
you want to confine them to a six-foot fence, you'll have to snip
them severely.  If you expect them to cover a large area, don't snip
them.
   Always use sharp tools to prune roses and other plants.  Here's
another suggestion...if you grow roses for exhibition as cut
flowers...prune them severely.  You may reduce the life of the
plant...but your flowers will be larger and they'll have longer stems.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Roses," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Salvia. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1138
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1138,
"Salvia."
   Salvia...also known as Scarlet Sage...is among the most colorful
annual flowers in the garden.  They're equally effective in small
groups, in mass plantings, or in combinations with other annuals.
While most of the varieties are fiery red in color, salvia also comes in
violet, blue and white.
   Salvia is available in several distinct height groupings.  The small
Fireball variety, which is 10 inches tall, is most effective as a mass
planting.  The 12 to 16 inch group includes such outstanding varieties
as St. John's Fire, Carabiniere, Blaze of Fire, and Red Pillar.  The
taller varieties, which are 18 to 30 inches high, can be used as
background or mid-border plantings.  Outstanding varieties in the
taller group include America, Firebrand and Bonfire.  Since salvia are
self-branching, the short types should be spaced on 12-inch centers.
The intermediate and tall varieties should be spaced on 18 to 24-inch
centers.
   Since salvia plants are rather tender, they should not be planted in
the garden until after the chance of frost has passed.  You can buy
salvia plants in peat pots at garden centers and other outlets that sell
flowering bedding plants.
 
Salvia performs best in strong light, but it's tolerant of partial   ellr       
shade.  Select a site where the soil is open and well-drained.  The soil
should be turned and prepared with additions of some types of organic
matter each year.  The kinds of organic matter you might consider
include peat moss, pine bark, and sawdust.  A complete fertilizer, such
as 8-8-8, should be worked into the soil before you plant...and you
should apply the fertilizer at the rate of two to three pounds per 100
square feet.  Top dressings of 8-8-8 should be made between June 15
and August 1.  The rate for this should be one pound per 100 square
feed of bed area.
   Don't allow the soil in which the salvia is grown to become too
dry.  Water it with at least one inch of water per week during a dry
period.
   Salvia plants can be expected to provide a succession of blooms
from mid-June until frost, provided they are properly cared for.  One
important point should be made...salvia flowers are pollinated by bees
and old flowering spikes should be removed at least weekly to keep
the plants blooming.
   Mulching is especially beneficial to salvia.  Mulching reduces the
evaporation of water from the surface and suppresses weeds.  Medium
coarse peatmoss or pine bark applied in a two-to-three inch layer
makes an excellent mulch and it looks like soil.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Snapdragon. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1139
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1139,
"Snapdragon."
   Snapdragons are a favorite of gardeners who like bright, showy
flowers in the garden and for use as cut flowers.  A native of the
Mediterranean region, they are now available in many newly-developed
forms.
   The short types, such as the Floral Carpet and Pixie, grow to a
height of six to eight inches.  They are excellent border plants.
Intermediate height snapdragons include...Promenade, Sprite, Hit Parade
and Butterfly.  They are good bedding plants and are tall enough to
be cut.  The taller snapdragons, which include Madame Butterfly and
Rockets, make good background plants and are perfect for cutting.
   Snapdragons come in a multitude of colors...white, pink, yellow,
bronze, rose and red.  Each color has many shades, too.
   To grow snapdragons successfully, prepare the soil carefully.
Snapdragons are sensitive to root rot diseases, so they need well-
drained soil.  You may want to raise your snapdragon beds to improve
drainage.  Add materials like peatmoss, pine bark and rotted sawdust
to insure better drainage and aeration of the soil.
   Plant snapdragons where they will get four or five hours of direct
sunlight daily.  Partial shade for the rest of the day is alright.
Because they thrive when the weather is cool, plant them in late
winter or early spring..or in the fall after the nights become cool.
 
Probably, you should start with small plants which can be bought   .tdelr       
at garden centers, discount stores and other places which sell bedding
plants.  These plants are well established and have good root systems.
The plants will be accompanied by tags which will have a picture of
the variety and information on spacing, fertilizing and plant height.
Most commercial growers pinch the growing points on shoots.  This
encourages branching.
   Don't plant snapdragons too deeply.  Deep planting will encourage
stem and root rot.  Space the short varieties six to ten inches
apart...taller varieties should be spaced at least 12 inches apart.
   A good complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 should be
mixed into the soil before you plant.  Use two pounds for 100 square
feet of area.  The soil P-H should be between 6 and 6.5.  A soil test
can tell you how much lime is needed to bring the soil P-H to this
level.
   Snapdragons will need at least an inch of water each week...so
you'll need to water them when it doesn't rain.  Don't over-water
them though.  Over-watering will stunt or kill plants.
   The best way to keep snapdragons blooming is to cut the flowers
often.  Don't allow the flowering shoots to set fruit.  By removing old
blooms regularly, you can have flowers until cold weather kills the
plants.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the home
economist or county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Spring Flowering Bulbs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/l7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1140
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1140,
"Spring Flowering Bulbs."
   The spring flowering bulbs are truly a delight to have in your
garden...but they do require planning.  The bulbs you enjoy every
spring were planted the previous fall.  You should prepare your flower
beds for spring flowering bulbs during September and you should order
your bulbs in September so you will be ready to plant them in
October.
   Many spring flowering bulbs will bloom a second year...and maybe
even more years if they're cared for properly.  How to care for them
in just a minute, but first...the varieties which will bloom year after
year.
   The varieties of the daffodil and narcissus group which come back
year after year are Fortune, Carlton, Silver Chimes, Mt. Hood, Paper
White, Peeping Tom, February Gold and Trevithian.
   It's important that you select your bulbs by variety in south
Louisiana because many bulbs may produce foliage a second or third
year...but no flowers.  Two common varieties which produce foliage but
no flowers are King Alfred and Unsurpassed.
   Now, let's get back to caring for spring flowering bulbs so they
will bloom a second and third year.  The trick is...after the blooms are
gone, leave the foliage on the plant until after the new bulb has
formed.  Just delay cutting the foliage for a few weeks.  Wait until
the foliage begins to turn brown before you cut it or before you
remove the leaves.  Don't tie the foliage in tight knots or loops
because this will prevent light from getting to all of the leaves.  Also,
a light application of fertilizer after the bulbs flower may help bulbs
growing in poor soils.                           Bulbs need to be
divided every two or three years.  Dig them up and divide them after
the foliage is brown.  After you've divided them, wrap them in
newspaper or cover them with dry peat moss or vermiculite and store
them in a cool place until it's time to plant them the next fall.
   For more gardening information and suggestions call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Tulips. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1141
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1141,
"Tulips."
   Although tulips really weren't made to be grown in Louisiana,
research indicates that with the right kind of treatment, tulips can
look as good in Louisiana as they do in some of the more northern
parts of the country.
   Tulips should be planted in late November or no later than mid-
December.  The trick is...you need to put the bulbs in the vegetable
bin of your refrigerator for about six weeks before you plant them.
They need this chilling to compensate for the rather mild winters we
experience here in Louisiana.
   Here are some of the kinds of tulips that can be grown in
Louisiana.
   The "Darwin Tulips" are by far the best for general use and beauty.
The Darwins have long, graceful stems and usually reach peak bloom
in late March and early April.
   The "Darwin Hybrids" are an improvement of the regular Darwin
types...they're larger and usually bloom several weeks earlier than the
regular Darwin types.
   The "Cottage Tulips"  are pastel colored and bloom later than
Darwin types.  The flowers are usually large and egg-shaped.
   The "Parrot Tulips"  have fringed and scalloped edges.  Although
there are many varieties of these, many of them have weak stems and
don't flower as they should.  Because of their heavy, large blooms,
these are more likely to be damaged by wind and rain.
   The "Peony" or "Double Tulips" have many petals and bloom late in
the spring.  Good varieties include:  Eros, which is rose pink...May
Wonder, which is clear pink...and Orange Triumph...a soft orange.
   Other tulip types include lily-flowered tulips, breeder tulips,
Rembrandt or broken tulips, Fosteriana tulips, and Duc van Thol tulips.
   Regardless of the type tulips you choose, put them in full sun or
partial shade in a well-drained soil and on a raised bed.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Zinnias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/2/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1143
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1143,
"Zinnias."
   If you've made a decision to plant zinnias in your flower garden,
there's still one more tough decision to make--and that's selecting
variety.
   Zinnias have been so improved in recent years that varieties range
in height from 6 to 36 inches and are available in every color except
blue.  The most popular colors are yellow, orange, and red.
   The smallest variety is the Thumbelina.  It's used outside and
inside the home as a border for flower beds and as small potting
plants.  A little taller variety is the Cupid and Button zinnia which
reaches 12 inches.  They produce an abundance of blooms and are
widely used inside flower beds or as border plants.
   Next in height is the Persian Carpet zinnia with 15-inch stalks.
These zinnias appeal to flower lovers because of their colorful centers
and white or yellow-tipped petals.  If you like unique flowers, a good
selection would either be the Envy or Peppermint Stick varieties.  The
Envy produces an apple green flower, while those of the Peppermint
Stick are boldly striped in contrasting yellow, red and white colors.
   If your appeal is toward tall and graceful plants, then there's the
Dahlia, Cactus and California Giant varieties.  The Dahlia has great
size, excellent form and six-inch flowers.  An outstanding feature of
the large Cactus flowers are the fluted petals which form tube-like
points.  If you're attracted to pretty pastel colors, then you'll likely
go with the California Giants.  These giants stand three to four feet
tall and produce long stemmed flowers measuring six inches across the
face.            One word of caution before putting on your garden
gloves and breaking soil, Zinnias are very tender plants, so be sure all
danger of frost is past before planting.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Mailing Problem Plants to the County Agent. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/19/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1147
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1147,
"Mailing Problem Plants to the County Agent."
   If you're having trouble with a potted plant, a shrub, a vegetable
or a tree, there is someone who can help you pinpoint the problem
and at no cost to you other than getting the plant to him.
   The person who can help is the county agent in your parish.  You
can take the plant or infected parts of the plant to the agent for him
to examine or you can mail the plant or part to him if this is more
convenient.
   Unfortunately, there is no way to guarantee that the plant will
arrive at the county agent's office in good condition...and unless the
material is in good shape and you give him enough information, it's
impossible to diagnose the problem.
   Here are some suggestions that may help you get your plant to the
county agent in a useable condition.  If the plants are wilting,
yellowing, or showing general decline, try to send the whole plant
with roots if possible.  Dig the plant up carefully and include a soil
sample in a closed plastic bag.  Stem cankers should be sent in with
some healthy wood above and below the cankered portion.
   Branches and twigs that have been dead for several months are not
of much use.
   If your disease problem appears to be a leaf spot, then collect
several leaves from early and late stages of infestation.  Press the
leaves between cardboard to prevent them from crumbling in the mail.
Don't send leaf materials in a plastic bag because this causes the
leaves to rot quickly making identification impossible.
 
If you send fleshy fruits or vegetables, you should give them some   lll,       
special attention.  Send these specimens enclosed in a plastic bag.
Don't add any extra water to the bags.  And, don't send fruits or
vegetables that are severely decayed.  It's better to send those just
beginning to show the disease. Put these specimens in a box and wrap
it in heavy paper for mailing.  When you mail the plants, be sure to
send them so that they will arrive at the agent's office on a week day
instead of a weekend.
   After the agent receives the specimen, he may determine that it
should be examined by the Plant Disease Clinic at LSU to verify the
problem before he makes any recommendations.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Soil Analysis. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/16/82 (Curtis)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1148
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1148,
"Soil Analysis."
   Taking a soil test and having the soil analyzed is a step in the
right direction -- especially if your plants are not producing as they
should.  A soil test can reveal the level of plant nutrients, the soil
pH, the amount of limestone needed to change the pH, and the amount
of organic matter in the soil.
   If possible, test the soil before you plant.  If the pH is too low,
you can work lime into the soil to increase the soil pH and make the
soil less acid.  If the soil test reveals that the pH is too high, you
can add sulphur and mix it into the soil.  This will lower the ph and
make the soil more acid.
   Be sure your soil sample represents the area where you will plant
your garden.  Take several samples to a depth of four to six inches.
Take them from several locations, mix them thoroughly and take about
one pint of this soil to your county agent.
   Remember, though, that although a soil test can help determine pH
and plant nutrients, it will not solve problems of disease or insects.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Preparing Garden Soil. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1149
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1149,
"Preparing Garden Soil."
   The success or health of any plant depends directly on the soil in
which it grows.  Basically, the soil holds the plant in place and
upright and provides the necessary moisture, oxygen and food for the
plant.
   The best way to be sure your plants get enough moisture is to mix
into the soil generous amounts of humus or organic material.  These
materials may include peatmoss, leafmold, compost, processed bark,
animal manures, perlite or vermiculite.
   If your soils are poorly drained, coarse sand should be mixed into
the planting area.  A good planting mixture is five parts garden soil,
four parts organic matter and one part sand.
   Before you add organic or humus materials, the planting area
should be well spaded and worked.  Remove all weeds and grasses and
spread the material evenly over the surface of the soil and work it in.
   Beds prepared for annuals, perennials and vegetables should be dug
to a depth of 12 to 18 inches.  Areas for trees and shrubs should be
prepared 8 to 12 inches deep beyond the depth and width of the
plant's existing root area.
   All planting beds should be raised slightly above normal ground
level to allow for settling and to ensure good drainage.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Spring Color. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1151
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1151,
"Spring Color."
   Although some annual flowers are too tender to withstand the cool
nights of late March and early April, you can get a head start with
some of these.
   The way you do this is by planting the seeds in flats or pots or
half-gallon cartons or some other kind of container and putting them
in a warm, sunny place until there's no more danger of frost.  When
the weather warms up enough, you'll be able to go with sizeable
plants instead seed.
   One popular summer bulb that you can plant indoors during March
is the caladium.  By March, most nurseries and garden centers should
have these bulbs.  You should plant one bulb in a four-inch pot
containing humus soil and then put the containers in a warm sunny
area.  Keep the soil moist and growth will begin immediately.
   Gladiolus corms should be planted during March, too.  But, instead
of planting all you have at one time, try spreading the plantings over
several weeks.  Then color in your garden will be extended according
to the way gladiolus corms were planted.
   During March, you can expect some cool days and nights.  But,
spring is close at hand...and a few indoor plantings made during March
will assure you of early color in your garden.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Grow Annual for Year-Roung Color," call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
 
                                parish office of the LSU Cooperativech.l,       
-End-
-Title-
Plant Care During Vacation. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                            Reviewed:  2/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1152
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1152, "Plant Care
During Vacation."
   If you plan to be away from your home for two weeks or longer
during your vacation you'll probably need to prepare your plants for
your absence.
   Cut your grass just before you leave and make plans to have
someone cut the grass again in a couple of weeks if you're not going
to be back by then.  Uncut grass is a sure sign that you're gone and
the overgrowth will be hard on the grass itself.  In fact, if the grass
goes too long without cutting, it won't look very good when it is cut.
   You should water everything well before you leave.  A good, slow
soaking will probably carry your plants through a week or so with no
additional rain.
   You may need to mulch some of those plants which need watering
more often...those include hydrangea, azalea, annual flowers, coleus,
caladiums, mums and any new shrubs or trees you may have planted
during the spring.
   You should sink potted plants in a cool, shaded bed and water them
well.  Sinking the pots below the soil level will prevent them from
drying out quickly.
   Cut flowering annuals and perennial blooms to encourage new
growth and blooms for your return.  If you leave the old blooms and
seed heads on the plants, growth and the new bloom crop will be
slowed.
   After you do this cutting, you'll need to do some fertilizing.  A
light application of a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 worked into the
surface, and water will help the plants grow. 
You should spray for insects and diseases to keep them from                     
building up while you're gone.
   Be sure that walks and beds are neatly edged before your
departure, because the build-up of growth while you're away will be
difficult to manage when you get back.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Preparing Plants for Summer. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/17/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1153
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1153,
"Preparing Plants for Summer."
   Louisiana's hot summer days are often hard on ornamental
landscape plants...which makes it harder on you because the plants
require more of your attention.
   During the summer, water is extremely important for the survival
and growth of your plants.  It may not be practical or desirable to
water your plants continuously...so, you will need to conserve whatever
moisture there is.
   The best way to conserve moisture is by mulching the
plants...especially new ones.  Mulch acts as a soil insulator...it protects
the soil from the sun and wind...so, the mulched soil is cooler than
unmulched soil and usually stays at a more constant temperature.
   Also, mulches break the force of rain and irrigation water and tend
to prevent erosion, soil compaction and crusting. If you're looking for
some good mulching materials...you might try a three to six inch layer
of pine bark, pine needles, partially composted leaves or sugarcane
bagasse.
   Get your plants ready for summer before summer arrives...if you
would like more information about preparing your plants for summer,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extesnion Service.
                               
 
                               ce.omist in your parish office of theerrects     
-End-
-Title-
Planting In Summer. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1154
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1154,
"Planting In Summer."
   If you're wondering whether you can set out plants during the hot
months ...answer is yes, but...you must pay special attention to the amount of
water the plants get.
   During dry periods this may mean you will need to water the newly
set plants a couple of times a week...because the roots of the plants
aren't very well established.  So, if you plan to go on a lengthy
vacation, it's probably not a good idea to plant shrubs and the like
during the hot months.
   As you know, most plants have, by tradition, been set during the
winter when they are dormant...but, now many plants are grown in
containers which allows you to plant them in the summer if you're
careful to give them the tender loving care they need.
   If you would like to have more information about planting in the
summer or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Shrubs
for Louisiana Landscapes," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
 
 our parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.nomist inamount of  
-End-
-Title-
Colorful Flowers for Summer. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed: 2/8/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1155
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1155,
"Colorful Flowers for Summer."
   There are many plants which will provide brilliant color for your
landscape through the heat of summer and until frost...with only
minimum care.
   Two colorful annual flowers often taken for granted are zinnias and
marigolds.  Both of these plants are available in several colors and
sizes.  Because both zinnias and marigolds come in dwarf sizes, they
are suitable for borders or ground covers...or the giant size varieties
can be used for mass plantings and cuttings.
   Shrimp plant, periwinkle, sultana, salvia, lantana and pentas will
bloom until frost.  Shrimp plant and periwinkle will thrive in the sun
or in partial shade.  Sultana and pentas perform best in the shade or
partial sun.  Sultana is available in a variety of colors and new plants
are easily propagated from seed or cuttings.
   Plumbago will thrive in the hottest Louisiana sun and will survive
periods of drought.  Plumbago is valued for its continuous display of
blue or white flowers.
   Brighten your summer garden with some of the colorful summer
flowers.
   If you would like to have more information about which plants you
should grow during the summer, call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
 
                                of the LSU Cooperative Extension youfntsunt of  
-End-
-Title-
Why Spring Flowering Bulbs Won't Bloom. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area: State

                           TeleTip 1156
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1156,
"Why Spring Flowering Bulbs Won't Bloom."
   During March many people begin to wonder why their spring
flowering bulbs aren't blooming.  Well, it could be one of several
reasons.
   For example, daffodils and most other bulbs don't do very well in
soils that stay wet for a long time.  Bulbs may rot in areas where
there's a high water table.  Good drainage is essential.
   Many varieties of bulbs will not produce flowers a second year...or
if they do...they're considerably fewer.  Many of the daffodils fall into
this category.  Foliage is often lush and beautiful...but no flowers.
   The hot Louisiana summers and the mild Louisiana winters
sometimes don't allow bulbs to become conditioned for blooming.  This
is why the popular King Alfred daffodils and many others, too, fail to
repeat season after season.
   Even though bulbs will grow in shade, some natural sunlight is
needed for good flowering.
   Over-crowding is another problem.  After several years of growth,
some bulbs keep multiplying until they become overcrowded.  You can't
expect large numbers of good quality flowers where there's not enough
room for good root formation.
   If you have some bulbs you've just planted and they're not
flowering, the problem may be they were planted too deep.  This is
often the case for bulbs growing in heavy soils.
   Another reason bulbs don't flower is that the foliage was cut too
early the previous year.  The foliage should stay attached to the bulbs
until it turns brown.  This nourishes and replenishes the bulbs for the
formation of new ones.                          One other cause of
bulbs not flowering is insects.  The one insect which often damages
spring-flowering bulbs is the grub.
   If you would like more information about spring flowering bulbs,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                e.omist in your parish office of thethetont of  
-End-
-Title-
Gibbing Camellias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1158
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number ll58,
"Gibbing Camellias."
   Gibbing is the process of making camellias bloom earlier than they
otherwise would.  Camellias can be forced to bloom several weeks to
several months before their normal bloom date when they're treated
with gibberellic acid.
   Gibberellic acid is present in many plants and acts as a growth
regulator.  But, when you increase the amount of gibberellic acid in
camellias they tend to bloom much earlier.
   Gibbing camellias is a simple process.  First, in September or
October, select a well-developed flower bud...then remove the slender,
adjacent growth bud.  This growth bud is usually growing beside the
plump flower bulb.  Put one drop of the prepared  giberellic acid
mixture...one to one and a half percent... in the small cup that's left
after you've broken out the growth bud.  On small plants you
shouldn't treat more than a third of the buds.
   After about a week or ten days you should see a considerable
difference in the buds you've treated and the ones you haven't
treated.
   One of the real advantages of gibbing is that on some of the
varieties normally damaged by cold weather...you can force them to
bloom before the weather gets that cold.
   You should be able to get gibberellic acid mixtures in most garden
centers.
   If you would like more information about gibbing camellias or if
you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Camellias,"  call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service. -30-
-End-
-Title-
Reclaiming Old Shrubs and Small Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/15/82
Area:  state

                           Tele-Tip 1159
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1159,
"Reclaiming Old Shrubs and Small Trees."
   That overgrown shrub that dominates your landscape or blocks your
view can be turned into a useful and attractive small tree.  Often,
old, lack-luster shrubs can be reclaimed by selective pruning.  Such
plants include ligustrum, camellias, sasanquas, Burford hollies,
pittosporums, photinias and Japanese yew.
   To create this transformation, you need only a small pruning saw,
loppers, a pair of hand shears and a bit of patience and skill.
   First, determine whether the plant is worthy of such treatment...
that is...be sure you like it where it is.  A large shrub near a patio
would be more useful as a small shade tree, for instance.  A big shrub
may be completely shading an important part of your house...but with
wise pruning you can turn
 it into a much looser, more open form that you can see through.
   After you've decided that the plant is worth keeping and after
you've decided it's in the right place, it's time to go to work on it.
   First, remove all the dead wood and the small, non-essential
branches from the center of the plant.  Gradually reduce the center
until it's acceptable.  In many cases this will mean cutting out several
large trunks.  Never shear the plant across the top...always remove
branches and trunks from within the plant so that you open it up
without destroying the natural form of the plant.
   It may be a good idea to make a few cuts, then step back and look
at the results.  It may even be necessary to do the pruning over
several days so you'll have time to evaluate your work.  Paint all the
cuts that are more than one and a half inches with a tree surgery
material.
   After the plant has been reclaimed to your satisfaction, then study
the plant bed it's in to determine whether you need a ground cover or
other plantings.
   If you would like to have more information about reclaiming old
shrubs and trees, call the county agent or home economist in your
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
 
 arish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.st in yourd oryalont of  
-End-
-Title-
Summer Care of Flowering Bulbs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1160
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1160,
"Summer Care of Flowering Bulbs."
   When spring gardeners begin wondering "where have all the flowers
gone" from their bulb plants, then time is close at hand for putting
them away for fall replanting.
   If foliage is turning brown or dieback has begun...and the plants
have been bedded in the same location for two or more years...they
need to be dug and stored for planting in October or early November.
This applies to such varieties as narcissus, daffodils, jonquils and
Easter lilies.
   Avoid taking green plants from the ground since this could keep
flowers from forming the next year.  While the plant is still green,
the new flower that will bloom the following year is being formed in
the bulb.
   After digging, allow the bulbs to air dry in the shade for several
days.  Then remove the soil and store the bulbs in a cool, dry
location until planting in the fall.
   While most spring flowering bulbs can be removed from beds in
June, gladiolas are in bloom then and digging them will have to wait
for four or five weeks.  When foliage turns brown, the plants can be
dug and larger bulbs separated from the smaller or marble-sized bulbs.
   Small bulbs left attached to larger ones produce grass-like foliage
and no flowers for three years.  If you want to save the smaller ones,
plant them in an inconspicuous place.  In three years they will grow
into larger bulbs.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Watering Summer Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1161
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1161,
"Watering Summer Plants."
   A blistering summer sun along with inadequate watering often leads
to the downfall of a potentially beautiful yard containing a healthy
lawn, flowers and shrubs.
   Many times the problem isn't recognized until plants are badly
damaged or dead.  And, over-watering can be as much a problem as
under-watering.
   Here are some suggestions for getting water to the roots of plants,
and keeping it there:
   Never water strictly by the calendar.  Instead, learn to recognize
dry plants and soil, and use these symptoms as your watering guide.
   When plants are dry, water them thoroughly.  Water lawns so the
soil becomes wet several inches down.  This encourages deep rooting
and resistance to extreme dry periods.
   Water trees and shrubs by taking the sprinkler off the end of the
hose and letting the water run slowly for an hour or so.  Be sure
water is going where you want it and not just running off.
   Symptoms for water-logged plants are about the same as those that
have been kept too dry.  Plants begin to wilt and turn yellow.
   To hold moisture in the soil, use a mulch such as tree bark,
bagasse or pine straw.  Besides reducing evaporation, mulches keep the
soil cooler and make weed pulling easier.  Be especially careful to
keep newly planted trees and shrubs well watered.  Their developing
root systems are especially sensitive to under-watering and over-
watering.
 
For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county   gthealont of  
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
February Gardening Suggestions 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                                  TeleTip 1172
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1172, "February Gardening Suggestions".
   During February it's not unusual to begin thinking about the
warmer days of spring and the things you'll be doing outside.  But, it
may be that you'll want to get outside and work in the garden during
the warm days of February because what you do during February will
certainly affect what your garden has to offer during the spring.
   You can plant Gladiolus during the latter days of January and the
first week to ten days of February in south Louisiana.  You can
prolong the blooming season of glads by planting a few corms each
week until about the middle of March...but no later.
   Also, if you want early flowers, seed annuals in boxes and keep
them indoors.
   February is a good time to fertilize trees.  Remember, it's best to
put the fertilizer in holes in the soil.  Fertilize trees with about a
pound to a pound and a half of a balanced fertilizer for each year of
the tree's age.  A balanced fertilizer is one such as 8-8-8.
   Shrubs should be fertilized with about a quarter of a pound of a
balanced fertilizer for every square yard of area covered by the spread
of the plant.  You can delay fertilizing your shrubs until March.
   If you're more of a vegetable gardener, here are the vegetables
which can be planted during February...beets, carrots, broccoli, turnips,
mustard, spinach, parsley, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, radishes, Irish
potatoes, leaf lettuce, head lettuce (during the first part of the
month), snap beans and corn in the extreme southern part of the
state.  Also, you can transplant broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, head
lettuce and shallots.
   Growing Irish potatoes is very popular in Louisiana.  You should
finish planting your potatoes in south Louisiana by February 15.  You
can get more detailed information about growing Irish potatoes by
calling this number and asking for TeleTip number 1729. 
If you're planning to plant tomatoes this spring, you can plant                 
tomato seeds in a greenhouse or in hotbeds during January or by the
end of February.  Tomatoes require about seven to eight weeks from
seeding until they reach transplant size.  Eggplants and bell peppers
require eight to ten weeks of growth.
   If you're considering planting a pecan tree or two, you should get
it done by late February.  The dormant season for pecan trees ends in
early March and trees must be set out before the growing begins.
Container-grown pecan trees may be planted on into spring as
temperatures remain cool.
   If you already have one or two pecan trees in your yard and you
want to fertilize them, you should contact the county agent in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service and ask
for a copy of pamphlet number 1727.  This publication gives specific
instructions concerning fertilization of individual pecan trees.
   Late February to early March is an ideal time to fertilize the fruit
plants in your home orchard.  An annual application of fertilizer is
critical to the maintenance of healthy, productive fruit trees and
plants.
   Here are a few other things you may want to do in February if
you grow fruit...plant blackberry root cuttings...check strawberry plants
for spider mites... apply pre-emerge herbicides to the lawn to control
spring annual weeds...plant container-grown citrus trees...collect fig
cuttings and add mulch to rabbiteye blueberry plants.
   If you want more information or suggestions about any of the
subjects mentioned in this program or if you have a question about
growing other ornamentals, vegetables or fruits, call the home
economist or county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
March Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1173
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1173, "March Gardening Suggestions."
   First, a brief look at landscape gardening...then a look at vegetable
gardening.  You should try to finish your shrub and tree planting
during March so the plants can become well established before the
summer heat moves in.  Remember, don't buy and set out more plants
than you have time to care for...they will suffer for it during the
summer.
   If you didn't get around to pruning during February, you should use
early March to prune all spring flowering shrubs and evergreen shrubs.
Remember...don't prune spring flowering shrubs such as spiraea, azalea,
camellia, jasmine, mock orange and flowering quince until after they
have bloomed.
   Early March is the ideal time to fertilize plants in the landscape
because you give them food for growth just before the spring growth
begins.  Buy your fertilizers on the basis of plant food...not on the
basis of pressure claims, advertising or the color of the product.
   If you have roses, you'll need to start a regular spray program as
soon as the plants begin to produce leaves.  If you allow black spot
disease to get started, you'll find it is quite difficult to control.  You
can help prevent disease problems by keeping a fungicide such as
Funginex, Benlate, Manzate or Phaltan on the foliage at all times.
These chemicals should be alternated each week.
   Also, during March you can divide and transplant mums, ajuga,
liriope, violets, daylily and shasta daisy.
   Now, let's look at vegetable gardening.  During March you can
plant snap beans, Swiss chard, collards and sweet corn.  After the
danger of frost is over, you can transplant tomatoes, peppers and
eggplant.
   When you go to the nursery or the hardware store to buy your
tomato plants, you'll want to buy those varieties recommended for
Louisiana...they are:  Floralou, Floradel, Creole, Pelican, Traveler 76,
Better Boy, Champion, Fantastic, Floramerica, Super Fantastic, Park's
Extra Early, Pole King, and Monte Carlo.  Three of the newer hybrids
are Celebrity, Freedom and Mountain Pride.  Good canning varieties
are Royal Chico and Roma V F.
   For more information on recommended varieties for Louisiana or
growing specific vegetables, either call TeleTips and ask for the
appropriate tape or call the county agent in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
April Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1174
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1174, "April Gardening Suggestions."
   First, a look at landscape gardening...then, a look at vegetable
gardening.
   April is your last call for dormant oil applications for control of
scale insects on camellia and hollies and on leaves and stems of other
plants such as variegated privet, magnolias and gardenias.  Oil sprays
are safe only when the temperature doesn't exceed 85 degrees.  After
April, your next best time to apply dormant sprays is late October or
early November.
   April is the time to prepare your hanging baskets.  Many plants are
suitable for these planters, but ferns are probably the aristocrats.
They come in a great variety of shapes and sizes and are especially
attractive when grown in baskets.
   Tender, annual bedding plants may be planted outside as soon as
there's no longer a danger of frost.  You can start the seed indoors
now so you'll have earlier blooms.
   You should begin making cuttings of plants held over inside during
the winter.  These plants include begonias, impatiens and coleus.
   Divide old, large clumps of chrysanthemums during April.  Failure
to divide the plants may result in weak, spindly growth with only a
few flowers.
   During April you can prune flowering shrubs such as spirea,
flowering quince, azalea, viburnum, dutzia, pittosporum, Philadelphus
and jasmine after they have bloomed.
   If you want healthy roses this year you should have a planned,
systematic spray schedule.  For best results, spray or dust roses with
a fungicide before disease organisms attack and keep a protective
covering of the chemical on the plants at all times.
 
If you're more interested in growing things which are more edible   th6,ou      
than ornamental, here are some suggestions for your vegetable garden.
   These are the vegetables you can be plant during April...snap
beans, lima beans -- sometimes called butter beans-- collards,
cucumbers, eggplants, cantaloupes, okra, southern peas, pepper
transplants, peanuts, pumpkin, winter squash, summer squash, sweet
corn, sweet potatoes, tomatoes transplants and watermelon.
   You can get specific recommendations on growing vegetables by
calling TeleTips and asking for a tape about a specific vegetable or by
calling the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
May Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1175
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1175, "May Gardening Suggestions."
   First, a look at landscape gardening...then, a look at vegetable
gardening.  During May you can plant several summer annuals and
perennials either from seed or as young plants.  Because our climate
produces such intense heat in the summer, it's a good idea to use
plants which can handle the summer heat.  Here are some plants you
may want to try:
   Gloriosa Daisy...the glorified black-eyed Susan.
   Daylilies...which will provide bloom all summer into fall, depending
on the variety.
   Periwinkle...which is an annual and which is tolerant to heat.
Periwinkle will reward you with white or lavendar blooms all summer
and into fall.
   Cockscomb...which is colorful and long lasting.  It comes in reds,
yellow and oranges.
   Zinnia...which comes in either dwarf or large sizes and which will
be heavy bloomers if you cut them often.
   Some of the other plants which can withstand the summer heat are
marigolds, geraniums, cosmos, copperleaf, croton, wandering Jew,
coleus, petunia, canna, portulaca, acalypha, alternanthera, flowering
tobacco, shrimp plant, plumbago and snow-on-the-mountain.
   You can also plant balsam, cleome, caster bean, dwarf dahlia,
four-o'clock, impatiens, moon flower, moonvine, morning glory, salvia
and sunflower. Bulbs that can be planted are caladium, canna, crinum,
hemerocallis, lycoris, water lily and zephyranthes.
 
Spring usually provides your plants with at least as much water as   ng,ou      
they need...but, summer will be a different story.  You'll need to water
your plants as summer approaches.  When you water, be sure to give
the soil a good soaking and not just an occasional sprinkling.
   And, one final note on landscape gardening...during May you'll want
to plant your chrysanthemums to insure beautiful fall color in your
garden.
   Now, let's look at vegetable gardening for May.  Here are the
vegetables which may be planted during May... eggplant and sweet
potato transplants...okra ...southern
peas...pumpkins...peanuts...watermelons...cucumbers...cantaloupes...
collards and squash.
   Here are some vegetables which you should plant no later than the
first part of May because later plantings are likely to be damaged by
the summer heat...snap beans...lima beans...sweet corn...tomatoes and
peppers.
   The intense summer heat we experience in Louisiana can really take
its toll on vegetable crops...however, there are some vegetables which
not only tolerate the summer heat...but, actually thrive on it.  These
vegetables are okra, southern peas, and eggplants...especially the green
ones.
   You can get more information about landscape gardening and
vegetable gardening by calling TeleTips and asking for a program on
the specific subject you're interested in...or you can call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
June Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1176
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1176, "June Gardening Suggestions."
   First, a look at landscape gardening and then a look at vegetable
gardening.
   Watering your plants should be one of your high priorities during
June...particularly if you have plants for which this will be their first
summer.  Water these plants often and thoroughly.  Give them good
soakings and not just frequent light sprinklings.
   Your summer annuals should reach their peak during June so you
will need to continue giving them some attention.  You should feed
them with a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 at the rate of about
one-half cup for each square yard of bed area.  Also, remove old
blooms often because annuals which are forming seed will soon stop
blooming.  Again, water these plants well.  Control pests on your
summer annuals...use the insecticide sevin for leaf-eating insects...the
insecticide malathion for leaf-sucking insects...and use acti-dion p.m.
for mildew.  Be sure to spray roses at seven to ten day intervals for
best results.
   During the summer camellias and azaleas form flower buds...so, take
care of these plants during June and the rest of the summer.  A lack
of water, plant food or too many damaging pests can affect next
year's blooms.  And if you haven't already done so, put houseplants
outdoors in shaded areas.
   The yellowing of plants is often due to chlorosis or a lack of iron
in the soil.  If plants begin to yellow, apply a chelated iron to
improve their health and color.
   Now let's look at vegetable gardening.  There are still a few
vegetables that you can plant in your garden...these include sweet
potato transplants, southern peas, squash, cucumbers, peanuts, okra,
pumpkins, collards, cantaloupes and watermelons.  Also, you can plant
tomato and pepper seed for fall production.
 
Now that we're into June, you're well aware of how hot the   an plantn.etu      
temperatures can get, but you may not be aware of what the high
temperatures do to your vegetable plants.
   High temperatures...both day and night...interfere with pollination
and fruit set in of many vegetables.  Snap beans and lima beans tend
to drop their flowers readily under these conditions.  Squash has a
tendency to produce a lot of male flowers and consequently few fruit.
Tomatoes and bell peppers also set very few fruit during the hot
months.
   If you're planning to have tomatoes in your fall garden, you should
plant the tomato seeds in mid-June.  It will take about four to five
weeks for these seed to produce transplants.  Grow them in the open
so they will be acclimated to the hot temperatures.  Pelican, Floradel,
and Hawaiian N-65 are three of the more successful fall tomato
varieties.  However, it's a good idea to try other varieties, such as
Celebrity and Mountain Pride, along with these for comparison.
   While we're on the subject of tomatoes, blossom-end rot is a
common problem on the fruit of producing tomatoes this time of the
year.  Symptoms of blossom-end rot look like dark brown, leathery
scars or rot on the bottom of the tomato.
   To help reduce the blossom-end rot problem, irrigate the soil
before it gets dry and mulch it to help keep the soil evenly moist.
   You can get more gardening information from TeleTips by calling
this number and asking for a program on the specific subject you're
interested in or you can call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
July Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1177
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1177, "July Gardening Suggestions."
   You can put your potted plants outdoors in the shade during July,
but you will need to water them everyday.  Also, because July is part
of the main growing season for potted plants, you will want to
fertilize them every week or two to promote rapid, sturdy growth.
   If you planted trees or shrubs last year, this summer is a critical
time for them.  So be sure to water them thoroughly with a weekly
soaking.
   During July you can dig and divide your irises when they have
finished blooming and the foliage begins to die down.  If you plan to
add to your iris collection, you should consider the Japanese or
Siberian irises to extend the blooming period and to add some variety
to your garden.
   The hot months, for which July easily qualifies, are the best times
to set out new palms.  Large plants are more likely to make it
through the winter, so you may want to consider size when you're
choosing your plants.  Good outdoor palms include windmill palm,
Mediterranean fan palm, Canary Island date palm and Jelly palm.
   Other plants you can set out this month are shrimp plant,
chrysanthemum, croton, acalypha, alternanthera, flowering tobacco,
plumbago and other bedding plants.
   If you're looking for something spectacular to plant for fall, try
sowing some seed of salvia...sometimes called scarlet sage.  The vibrant
red, blue, white or pink of salvia compliment other late-summer and
fall blooming plants, such as chrysanthemums, marigolds and zinnias.
   Most varieties of salvia may grow as tall as three feet. If they are
put in flower beds, they can serve as backgrounds for lower-growing
bedding plants.

   There are also dwarf varieties of salvia which seldom grow taller
than 18 inches and are available in several colors.
        If you're more of a vegetable gardener, you can begin planting
these vegetables the first week of July ... okra, cucumbers, Southern
peas, squash, cantaloupes, watermelons, pumpkins and collards.  Mid-
July is a good time to plant broccoli seeds, brussel sprouts,
cauliflower, Chinese cabbage and cabbage.  Also, you can transplant
tomatoes and bell peppers.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
August Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1178
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1178, "August Gardening Suggestions."
   Hot August days really test your interest in your landscape and the
proper care of your plants.  Working outside really is not very
pleasant during August, but there are some things which need to be
taken care of.
   If azaleas show a yellowing of foliage during summer, in most cases
it's because the plants aren't getting enough iron.
   You should correct this condition by applying aluminum sulphate or
a chelated iron compound.  This poor leaf color, sometimes called
chlorosis, may also occur on gardenias, roses, camellias, hollies and
centipede lawn grass.
   During August, be sure your chrysanthemums get enough of the
right kind of watering because they tend to wilt quickly when they
need moisture.  Fertilize mums every two weeks with a complete,
balanced fertilizer and control insects and diseases.  Don't pinch or
prune chrysanthemums during August if you want them to bloom in the
fall.  But do prune hydrangeas if you haven't already done so.
   If you're planning a vacation for August, move all your house
plants outside in a cool, shaded area and water them well before you
leave.  Bury the pots in soil or peat moss to cut down on the amount
of water the plants will need.
   Mow your lawn and give it a good sprinkling just before you leave.
Soak flower beds which have annual flowers and cut all the blooms to
encourage more blooms when you return.
   Spray plants with insecticides and fungicides for protection against
insects and diseases while you're gone.  And finally, weed the garden
before you leave.  This will help keep weed seeds from spreading.
 
If you're planning a vegetable garden, early August is a good time   stttu      
to transplant tomatoes and bell peppers.  Also, plant broccoli seeds,
cauliflower, brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage, collards, mustard,
turnips, squash, cucumbers, pumpkins, lima beans, shallots, Irish
potatoes and southern peas.  Mid-to-late August is a good time to
plant carrots, beets, snap beans and lettuce.  You can also transplant
broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
September Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                               TeleTip 1179
     This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1179, "September Gardening Suggestions."
     The September weather is fairly warm and not all that inviting
for garden work...but there are several chores which should be taken
care of during September.
   Flower buds will have already formed on many spring flowering
shrubs by September...so it is very important that you don't let these
plants go through an extended dry period without additional water.
The plants in this category which come to mind first are the azaleas
and camellias.  Also, be sure your fall flowering chrysanthemums have
enough water...and an application of fertilizer will also improve bloom
quality on mums.
   September is the time to transplant bearded iris and daylilies.  By
September, gladiola foliage should be turning brown.  Dig the gladiola
corms with the foliage intact...let them dry in a shady place for
several days and then remove the soil.  Store the gladiola corms in a
cool, dry place where they will not freeze.
   September is a good time to prepare your beds for spring flowering
bulbs because you will need to plant them during October and
November.  Also, during September you will need to prepare a place
for your candy tuft, pansies, calendulas and snapdragons because you'll
be planting them in October.
   If you would like to have more of some of your favorite shrubs
September is good time to make root cuttings of woody type plants.
   For vegetable gardeners, early September is a good time to
transplant broccoli and cauliflower.  Other vegetables to plant include-
_beets, brussels sprouts, carrots, cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, collards,
endive, English peas, snow peas, lettuce, mustard, kohlrabi, parsley,
radishes, rutabaga, shallots, spinach, Swiss chard, turnips and kale.  In
late September plant garlic and onions.
   If you would like more September gardening suggestions call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
October Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-




                           TeleTip 1180
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1180, "October Gardening Suggestions."
   October is the month to begin cleaning up your garden for next
spring.  If you had some problems with diseases and insects during the
summer, it may be a good idea to burn or bury the debris that comes
from the garden.  The reason is that some insects and diseases can
live through the winter on these materials.  If you didn't have pest
problems, work the old plant refuse into a compost where it will
decompose.
   Smoke from burning leaves may lend a welcome fragrance to the
autumn air, but you and your garden may be better off if those leaves
are put in a compost where they can decay and be used to supply
much needed organic matter for your garden next year.
   There are many ways of composting leaves and other crop residues,
ranging all the way from making a simple heap of refuse to the
systematic construction of a neat pile using alternate layers of organic
matter, soil, fertilizer and sometimes ground limestone.  How good the
compost is and how rapidly it decomposes depends on the method you
use.
   But, regardless of the method, the important thing is to save this
valuable material that nature has provided to enrich and improve soils.
   October is bulb planting time in Louisiana.  Many people add color
and beauty to their gardens early in the spring by planting hardy
spring-flowering bulbs during October.  The various kinds of tulips,
narcissus...also known as daffodils, irises and hyacinths are general
favorites.  But, there are several other hardy bulbs which deserve
some attention....these include Anemones, ranunculus, snowflakes,
Easter lilies, agapanthus, amaryllis, zephranthes, freesia, allium and
snowdrops.
   If you want to try your hand at vegetable gardening, there are
several vegetables which can be planted during October.  The ones
which should be planted during the first part of the month are leaf
lettuce, Chinese cabbage, carrots and beets.
   Other vegetables which can be planted in October are cabbage,
collards, mustard, turnips, spinach, kale, parsley, celery, Swiss chard,
shallots, garlic, radishes, endive and onions planted from seed.
   And, just a word about strawberries which are planted during
November in the southern part of the state for picking in the spring.
The variety Tangi has proven to be the best, particularly for the
southern part of the state.  The size of the Tangi berries is excellent
as compared to other varieties.  So, you can be thinking about where
you will get your strawberry plants, but don't put them in the ground
until November.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
November Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1181
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1181, "November Gardening Suggestions."
   Mid-October to mid-November is the time for planting most spring-
blooming bulbs in Louisiana.  The November 15 deadline is especially
true for anemones, daffodils, iris, jonquils, narcissus, ranunculus, and
zephyranthes.  You can plant hyacinths in November and tulips in late
November or the middle of December.  But be sure that the bulbs have
been refrigerated for six to eight weeks before you plant them.
   Several annuals may be sown from seeds in November.  These
include sweet peas, oriental poppy, snap dragons, sweet allysum and
nasturtium.
   Pansy plants can also be set out in November... and in November
it's still not too late to divide perennials, particularly shasta daisies
and violets.
   Ground covers such as liriope, monkey grass, and ajuga can be
safely divided and transplanted through November.
   Before the arrival of cold weather, cold-tender plants such as
amaryllis, hibiscus, plumbago, gerberas, and cold-tender vines should be
mulched with a two- or three-inch layer of pine straw, leaves or pine
bark to protect them from early freezes.
   Caladiums should be dug before the freezing temperatures kill them.
Dig caladiums with the foliage intact, air dry them for several days in
the shade. Then, remove foliage and store them in a cool place where
they won't freeze.
 
Also, dahlia roots should be dug and stored after the first frost    inesu      
kills the tops.  Before you dig them, cut off the old tops to within
four or five inches of the soil and leave them in the ground for two
or three days.  Then, dig up the roots and wash off the soil.  Allow
the roots to air dry in the shade for several days and store them in
old newspaper, peat moss or some similar material in a cool area of
the house where they're not likely to freeze.
   Don't forget to take care of your garden tools after you're finished
with them for the winter.  Give them a good cleaning and oiling.  If
you put them away dirty, they're likely to rust and be more difficult
to use in the spring.
   For those of you who are interested in vegetable gardening, there
are still a few vegetables that can be planted in November.  You can
plant mustard, turnips, shallots, cabbage, spinach, collard transplants,
garlic and kale.
   Just a reminder...if you plan on having strawberries ready for
picking by the spring, November is the time to plant them in South
Louisiana.  The variety Tangi has proven to be the best, particularly
for the southern part of the state.  The size of the Tangi berries is
excellent as compared to other varieties.
        If you want or need other gardening information, call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
December Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1182
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1182, "December Gardening Suggestions."
   If you have holiday plants such as poinsettias, chrysanthemums,
Christmas peppers, Christmas begonias, or the like, you can enjoy
their colors for several weeks during the holiday season if you give
them the right kind of care.
   You must remember that most holiday plants have been out of the
greenhouse for only a short time and there's usually a considerable
difference between the environment of the greenhouse and the
environment of your home.  Poor light will cause the leaves to drop
off the plants, so put the plants where they will get some morning
sun.
   You'll need to keep the house at a fairly constant temperature.
Most flowering plants will do best in temperatures of 65 degrees to 70
degrees.  Some plants like temperatures even a little cooler.
   When it comes to watering these holiday plants, you will need to
keep them just slightly moist.  Most house plants tend to do better if
the soil is slightly on the dry side rather than on the wet side.
Overwatering will make the leaves drop off more quickly.
   It's not easy to control the humidity in your house, but plants
grow best in the parts of the house where the humidity is
greatest...usually in the kitchen area.  Sometimes you can help improve
the humidity around a plant by putting the plant on a pebble-filled
saucer with water just below the base of the pot...but not touching it.
   Early winter is the best time to plant azaleas and camellias.  But
don't wait until they're in bloom.  If conditions are favorable in
December, it's best to transplant so roots may become well established
before new growth and blooms in the spring.      One of the main
gardening activities for December is protecting your plants from
damaging cold weather.  Some plants which will probably need
protection are citrus trees, poinsettias, cassia, rubber plants, hibiscus,
allamanda, bougainvillea, philodendron, succulents, copper plants,
coleus, silk oak, and night-blooming jasmine.
   You'll need to physically protect your plants by covering both the
upper parts and the soil over the roots.  Covering just the exposed
parts of the plants is not enough.
   Remove all the protective coverings on the parts of the plants
above the ground immediately after the danger of freezing
temperatures has passed.
   As far as covering the soil is concerned...mulch tender plants or
those which you think are susceptible to cold damage, with mulches
such as leafmold, leaves, bagasse, pine needles or sawdust.
   Also, you may need to water your plants if you're expecting a
freeze.  Many plants are killed because they don't get enough water
and they become dehydrated.
   You may want to remember...the months of December, January, and
February are the best months for transplanting trees and shrubs.
   If you're thinking in terms of vegetable gardening, some cool
season crops are fairly hardy and may be planted this month.  You can
still plant mustard, shallots, turnips, spinach, endive, escarole and
transplant onions. Also, now is a good time to plant cabbage seed in
cold frames so they'll produce transplants for spring harvest.
   If you have questions about other gardening activities for the
month of December, call the home economist or county agent in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Aucuba. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1200
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1200,
"Aucuba."
   Aucuba is a member of the dogwood family.  This native plant of
Japan is valued for its glossy green leaves and bright red berries.
   A coarse-textured, broadleaf evergreen, it has a moderate growth
rate and reaches a height of seven feet with a spread of up to five
feet.  Aucuba has dense, dark-green foliage.
   It grows best when it's protected from full sun, heat and high
winds.  When the aucuba is exposed to these adverse conditions, the
leaves turn brown to black.  Aucuba is tolerant of most insect pests
and requires little maintenance when it's grown in moderately acid,
high-organic soil.  Fungus may infest the leaves, however, and cause
the stems to turn black.  You can control fungus diseases with a
copper spray.
   When you use aucuba around a building, plant it at least three or
four feet away from the foundation.  If you want berries, be sure to
plant both male and female.
   The most popular variety of aucuba is called "Gold Dust."  The
name comes from its yellow-green variegated leaves.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Ajuga. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1201
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1201,
"Ajuga."
   Ajuga, commonly called Bugleflower, is a popular ground cover.
It's used in rock gardens and as an underplanting for trees and
shrubs.  Ajuga will grow in shade, on flat areas and on slopes.
   Ajuga grows about five inches high.  It has a dense, compact form.
Its dark green foliage is three to four inches long and about an inch
wide.  Some varieties turn bronze in the fall.
   Few ground covers grow as easily and as quickly as ajuga.  It
spreads by runners, much like strawberries.  For a quick cover, plant
ajuga eight to ten inches apart.  It's easy to propagate.  Even the
smallest piece with roots will take hold.
   Ajuga can be planted anytime during the growing season, but it
does have a shallow root system and should be watered in dry
weather.
   Ajuga has a serious disease, crown rot, which causes plants to wilt
and die suddenly.  This disease is most common in hot, dry weather
and occurs most often on heavy, poorly drained soils.  To control
crown rot, remove affected plants and the soil around their roots.
Drench the area with terraclor (spelled t-e-r-r-a-c-l-o-r).  Use one
tablespoon of terraclor in a gallon of water.
   You can get more detailed information about groundcovers by
asking for TeleTip 1240 "Groundcovers."
   If you still have other questions about growing ajuga, call the
county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Bamboo. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1202
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1202,
"Bamboo."
   Bamboo is native to the tropical regions of Southeast Asia.  It
grows well in most soils of Louisiana.  Depending on the variety,
bamboo grows from two to thirty feet tall.  Because it grows so
rapidly, it can easily become a landscape pest.
   Most garden centers sell "hedge" bamboo.  This variety grows to a
height of 10 to 12 feet and can be confined to its intended area fairly
easily.  Other varieties are grown with underground barriers to control
their growth.
   Bamboo can be grown in either sun or shade.  It does not produce
any showy flowers, berries or fruit...and it's used mostly because it
has so many stems and slender leaves.  For more vigorous growth,
fertilize bamboo with a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 during the
spring.
   You can plant bamboo to form a screen or a hedge.  When you're
establishing a hedge, plant the clumps four to six feet apart.  Bamboo
makes an excellent container plant for use on a patio or a deck.  It
also makes an excellent cane fishing pole.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Boxwood. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1204
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1204,
"Boxwood."
   The American boxwood is a tall, evergreen shrub used for
foundation plantings.  It has long been associated with the colonial
homes of the South.
   Boxwoods thrive in well-drained, sandy, loamy soils that are high in
organic matter and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.  They like semi-shade.
Avoid full sun and dry, hot locations.
   Boxwood has shallow roots and cultivating around them can disturb
the root system.  Mulch boxwood with pine needles or other organic
materials.  This will help to conserve moisture, reduce weeds and help
them get established.  Be sure to water them thoroughly, but don't
plant them near drain spouts.  They don't like wet feet.
   Prune boxwood yearly for the first few seasons after planting.
Prune in early summer so that new growth can harden off before the
first frost.  Keep all dead twigs and branches pruned.  They provide
ideal conditions for disease-causing fungi.  After the first few years,
prune the plants periodically until you get them plants to the size you
want them.
   Fertilize boxwoods in early spring.  Apply more fertilizer in early
June.  If the soil hasn't been tested, use one or two pounds of 8-8-8
per 100 square feet of surface area.  Don't apply fertilizer within six
inches of the main stem.
   American boxwoods are especially susceptible to boxwood leaf
miners.  These are insect larvae that feed between the two surfaces of
leaves.  Other insects that attack boxwoods include boxwood phyllid
nymphs and Japanese wax scale.  You can control them with malathion.
 
Spider mites attack boxwoods, too.  Two applications of   malathion.ofxus,      
Kelthane...one week apart...will control spider mites.
   The most common disease of boxwoods is phytophthora root rot.  It
can injure the plant seriously.  There's no chemical cure for this
disease, but here are some suggestions to help you avoid it.....
   Be sure to buy healthy plants.  Don't plant boxwoods in poorly
drained areas.  If you must plant them in clay soils, build up the beds.
Mix pine bark into the planting site to a depth of 12 inches and
remove any dead or dying branches promptly.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Crape Myrtles. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1207
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1207,
"Crape Myrtles."
   The most popular small flowering tree used in Louisiana landscapes
is the crape myrtle.  There are a number of reasons for the popularity
of the crape myrtle...its availability...its long blooming season...its
freedom from serious pests and its ability to grow under most
Louisiana conditions.
   The crape myrtle begins blooming in May and you're likely to see
colors such as watermelon red, shades of lavender, red, pink, white
and even variegated colors.
   The crape myrtle is sometimes called the "Southern Lilac" or the
"Flowering Tree for l00 Days" because it blooms off and on during a
three month period.
   If you have a crape myrtle in your yard, as soon as the flower
heads fade, they should be pruned from the plant with a knife or
shears.  You should make the cut right behind the old flower
head...leaving as much foliage and stem as possible.  New growth will
appear and new flowers will follow in about three to five weeks.
Then, as soon as these second flowers begin to fade, they should be
cut from the plant.  In many cases, you'll find that you will get a
third blooming stage in the fall.
   Crape myrtles should get full sunlight most of the day.  You'll find
that crape myrtles planted in shady areas will produce diseased, weak,
and spindly plants with only a few flowers.
   Container-grown crape myrtles can be bought and transplanted
anytime of the year as long as you're careful to give them enough
water after they're transplanted.  Although crape myrtles can be
planted anytime, the best time to plant them is in the winter when
the plant is dormant.
   Crape myrtles need to be fertilized...generally this tree will need
about one pound of fertilizer for every year of age of the tree...up to
ten pounds.  Apply the fertilizer by punching holes about twelve to
fifteen inches deep into the soil...and about two feet from the trunk
of the tree.  Use one cup of fertilizer, which is about a half pound,
in as many holes as is needed to get to the amount needed by the
tree.
   When you're looking for crape myrtles, you'll find three general
kinds... dwarf...the improved weeping types...and the old, standard,
upright varieties.
   Unfortunately, it's hard to buy crape myrtles by variety.  Most of
them are sold by color and size.  However, several named varieties
which are fairly common include "Near East" which is flesh pink,
grows vigorously and has an outstanding sculptural form.  "Pink
Ruffles" is a deep pink flowering dwarf.  "Cherokee" is a bright, true
red that is medium sized.  "William Toovey" is the most common large
watermelon red.  "Potomac" is a large, long-flowered clear pink
variety.  "Seminole" is a clear pink plant with large flowers and
several bloom cycles.  "Powhatan" is light purple and reported to be
mildew resistant.
   If you would like more information on crape myrtles call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Gardenias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1210
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1210,
"Gardenias."
   The gardenia is a popular flowering shrub in Louisiana.  This
delightful evergreen has distinctive glossy foliage and fragrant, white,
waxy flowers which bloom in late spring and summer.  The blossoms
have been a favorite with gardeners for generations.
   Gardenias grow on a wide range of soils, but they do best in moist,
loamy, well-drained soil.  The soil pH should be between 5.0 and 6.0.
Gardenias grow best in soil mixed with organic matter such as peat,
bark and sewage sludge.  Mulching will help, too.  Each spring,
fertilize gardenias with a complete garden fertilizer such as 8-8-8 and
apply additional iron.  Apply fertilizer a second time in early or mid-
summer.  Don't fertilize gardenias in the fall.  Doing so will stimulate
tender growth which may be killed if the temperature in winter drops
below 15 degrees.
   White flies often attack gardenias.  They can be controlled by
using Orthene (spelled o-r-t-h-e-n-e) or oil sprays such as oilicide
(spelled o-i-l-i-c-i-d-e) or Volck (spelled v-o-l-c-k).
   The oil sprays will control the white fly and remove the black,
sooty mold from gardenia leaves.  When using oil sprays, follow
manufacturer's directions.  They cannot be used when temperatures are
very hot or cold.
   Prune gardenias after they have finished flowering.  This is usually
in late May or early June.  Prune late-flowering varieties after
flowering is completed.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Hollies. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/16/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1211
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1211,
"Hollies."
   Chinese and Japanese hollies are two of the most popular types
planted in Louisiana.  First, let's look at the Chinese holly.  When
they're left alone they will grow as tall as twenty feet...but most
people control this growth by pruning them.
   Chinese hollies are tolerant of poor soils and poor drainage.  Of
course, this makes them easy to grow.  They will grow in shade...but
for best growth and fruiting, they need at least six hours of sun each
day.
   The most common mistake most people make in growing Chinese
hollies is failing to prune the plants for several years after planting.
When the pruning is finally done, it's often severe and this results in
an unattractive shrub.
   A good time to prune hollies is at Christmas.  Use the dark green,
glossy foliage and the red berries for decorating.  Prune hollies only
to shape them or to remove dead or injured branches.
   For a heavy berry crop, be sure to have both male and female
plants nearby.  Sometimes a male branch can be grafted onto the back
of a female plant.
   Fertilize Chinese hollies in mid-March or late fall.  When scale
insects attack hollies, control them with an insecticide called
Malathion.
   The other popular holly mentioned earlier is the Japanese holly.
Japanese hollies come in several varieties, they grow slowly and grow
three to five feet high.  They can be planted in either sun or shade
and grow best in clay soils.
 
The size of the leaf is the characteristic that helps you distinguish   s,      
one variety of Japanese holly from another one.  The leaves are
usually between one-half and one-inch long and from one-fourth to
one-half inch wide.  They're shiny and deep green.
   Japanese hollies have dense, slender, brittle branches that break
easily at the main stem.  They're a low maintenance plant, so little
pruning is needed except for an occasional shaping.
   When you plant Japanese hollies, be sure to mix in plenty of
organic matter with the soil.  Each spring, broadcast a complete
fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, throughout the bed.  Use about two
pounds of fertilizer for 100 square feet of planting area.  Water the
plants thoroughly after you apply the fertilizer.  Don't use more than
the recommended amount of fertilizer.  If you do, you may burn the
roots of the plants.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Shrubs for Louisiana Landscapes," call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Hydrangia. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1212
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1212,
"Hydrangia."
   Hydrangea or bigleaf hydrangea, as it's often called, does well
throughout Louisiana.  Plant hydrangeas in a semi-shaded area where
the soil is moist and well drained.  The soil should be rich in organic
matter.  Each spring, fertilize with a mixed fertilizer such as 8-8-8.
   Hydrangeas will grow at a pH of 5.0 to 8.0.  At a a pH of 6.5 to
8.0, the flowers are pink.  At a pH of 5.0 to 6.5, the flowers are blue.
   Hydrangeas have a shallow, fibrous root system.  They must be
watered during dry spells.  Some people call hydrangeas the "indicator"
plant because it can indicate the soil pH by the color of its flower.
   It's also one of the first plants to wilt when plants are under
drought stress.  A wilted hydrangea usually indicates that all garden
and yard plants need water.  If an hydrangea becomes too dry, it may
suffer leaf "burn" or "scorch" during hot, dry weather.
   Sometimes, hydrangeas make healthy, vigorous leaf and stem growth
but fail to bloom.  Many old, established plants stop flowering after a
few years.  Sometimes, this occurs when hydrangeas are planted near
larger shrubs which cast too much shade.  Other conditions that will
result in a failure to bloom or decreased flowering are poor soil, over-
fertilization, cold temperatures and late pruning.  Prune hydrangeas
immediately after flowering.  Flower buds are formed in the fall.  If
you wait too late to prune, you will reduce the number of flowers.
 
Because hydrangeas drop their leaves in winter, they aren't good   Ifer-s,      
foundation plants for a building.  Sometimes, they're planted along the
side walls or across the back of a building if evergreen shrubs are
nearby.  Hydrangeas are best when they're planted in masses in a side
or rear yard where they can be viewed at a distance.  Mass them in
beds near azalea plantings and they will extend flower color into
summer after azalea blooms have fallen.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Juniper. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1213
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1213,
"Juniper."
   There are many different kinds of junipers.  The two main ones
grown in Louisiana are Chinese junipers and creeping junipers.  All
are narrow-leafed evergreens, but they vary in size, growth habit,
color and form.  Junipers can be grown as ground covers, foundation
plantings and screens.
   All junipers have common characteristics.  They can be grown in
full sun and they can tolerate poor soils, but they don't like wet feet.
Plant them in well-drained soil.  Common pests of junipers are
bagworms and spider mites.  Bagworms can be controlled by picking
them off by hand.  Control spider mites by spraying with
Kelthane...spelled K-E-L-T-H-A-N-E.
   Many junipers grow rapidly and can easily overgrow their intended
boundries.  Learn something about the characteristics of junipers
before you plant them.  The Chinese junipers have an upright and
spreading form.  The Pfitzer variety of Chinese juniper has branches
that are at an angle of about 25 degrees to the ground.  Pfitzer
juniper...spelled P-F-I-T-Z-E-R...has green needles and grows about
five feet tall.  Leave plenty of space if you plant this variety.
   Hetzi juniper is even larger.  It grows nine feet tall and spreads to
a width of 10 to 12 feet.  Hetzi...spelled H-E-T-Z-I...has blue-green
foliage and branches that are at about a 45-degree angle to the
ground.
   The horizontal junipers are usually planted as ground covers.  Their
maximum height is about two feet and they have a spread of four or
five feet.  Shore juniper is a popular horizontal juniper used as a
ground cover.
 
Again, learn the characteristics of junipers before you choose one   iros,      
and plant it.  Most junipers should be pruned on the tips every year.
They don't like to be pruned heavily more often than every four or
five years.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Ligustrum. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1215
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1215,
"Ligustrum."
   You may have heard ligustrum called glossy privet.  This is the
name by which ligustrum is sold at most garden centers.
   Ligustrum--or glossy privet--is an old, established landscape plant
in Louisiana.  This tough, durable shrub can grow in almost any soil.
It can grow in full sun or in partial shade.
   Ligustrum is an upright, fast-growing evergreen that often reaches
a height of 12 to 15 feet.  Its leaves are round and smooth and
medium to dark green in color.  The plant produces small white
flowers.  Although the flowers aren't showy, they are fragrant.
   Ligustrum is most effective when it's used as a hedge.  It's not
recommended as a foundation plant because it can easily become too
large.  One current use of ligustrum is as a specimen tree.  Simply
prune off the side branches, expose the main stem, and you have what
appears to be an evergreen tree.
   The dwarf, more ornamental variety of ligustrum, is called curly
leaf ligustrum.  It is recommended as a specimen plant for container.
It has an interesting, twisted habit of leaf growth and reaches a
height of about four feet.  Growing conditions for curly leaf are
generally the same as those for regular ligustrum.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Liriope. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1216
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1216,
"Liriope."
   Liriope, sometimes called lilytuft, is among the best evergreen
ground covers available.  It's actually a lily...a stemless evergreen
plant which multiplies rapidly and needs very little care.  Liriope can
be used under trees and shrubs or as a mass planting on slopes and
banks or as an edging plant.
   Liriope can grow as high as twelve inches and it has broad, dark-
green, grass-like leaves.  There is also a variegated variety which has
white striped leaves.
   In August, liriope produces small clusters of flowers on a center
spike and these are followed by clusters of berry-like fruit.
   Liriope grows at a moderate rate.  It does best in shade but it will
tolerate full sun and it can endure heat, drought and salt spray.
   In starting your liriope, you should space the plants about one foot
apart.  Planting should be done in fall.  The plants will multiply,
forming clumps.  It's best to dig and separate these clumps every
three to four years.  Another suggestion is to shear off the top of
your liriope with a lawn mower each spring.  The plants will then look
less ragged as the new growth emerges.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Ground Covers for Louisiana Landscapes," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Mahonia. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1217
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1217,
"Mahonia."
   Mahonia or Oregon grape, as it is often called, is a member of the
barberry family and a native of the Orient.  It is an attractive
broadleaf evergreen which is useful in many landscapes.
   Mahonia is a popular accent plant for foundations, and it has
recently been featured as a container plant for use on patios and
decks.
   Mahonia grows slowly and may reach a height of three to six feet
and a spread of three to five feet.  It grows as an irregular grouping
of upright stems.
   Mahonia has bright yellow flowers, which bloom in late fall or
winter followed by bluish black fruit.
   You should plant mahonia in shade or at least partial shade, such
as that found on the north or east side of buildings.  Mahonia grows
well in most soils, but it does require good drainage.  The soil should
have a pH of 6.5 to 7.  Because of this relatively high pH, mahonia is
not recommended for planting
 with azaleas or camelias, which need a lower pH.
   Prune mahonias by removing one-third of the older, taller canes to
within 3 to 4 inches of the ground.  Pruning should be done in spring
and may only be needed every 3 to 4 years.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
 
                                parish office of the LSU Cooperativegsdos,      
-End-
-Title-
Mondo Grass. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1218
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1218,
"Mondo Grass."
   Mondo grass or monkey grass is an evergreen ground cover with
dark green leaves that are grass-like in texture.  Plants spread rapidly
by underground root stalks.  They can cover an entire area fairly
quickly, converting it into a mass of dark green foliage.
   Mondo grass grows best in shaded areas with rich soil and good
drainage.
   Plant mondo grass in the fall and space your clumps of grass about
five inches apart.
   Mondo grass is nearly maintenance free.  It requires no pruning,
and there are no insects or diseases that bother it.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Ground Covers for Louisiana Landscapes," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Nandina. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1219
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1219,
"Nandina."
   Nandina, which some people call Heavenly Bamboo, is a versatile
landscape plant.  Nandina is grown throughout Louisiana as a
foundation plant and most recently as an accent plant or specimen
plant for containers.
   Nandina grows as a mass of upright, unbranched stems.  The leaves
will range from deep green in shady locations to a light green or
reddish purple in the sun.  Nandina blooms in mid-spring but has only
moderately showy, white flowers.  The shrub is appreciated most for
its bright red berries in the fall and winter.
   For best results, Nandina should be planted in partial shade.  Try
to choose a spot with rich soil and good drainage.  Don't plant
Nandina between curbs and sidewalks because the soil temperature will
be too high for it.
   After several years, the plant will become "leggy"... that's when the
inner canes or stems should be removed starting near the ground.
This should be done in late winter or early spring.  You'll end up with
a more compact plant with foliage from ground level upward.
   By selectively pruning Nandinas yearly, you won't sacrifice its
flowers and berries.
   Nandina comes in the standard size which grows to 5 feet or more.
Compact varieties grow to a height of 2 to 4 feet, while dwarf
Nandinas seldom grow taller than 2 feet.
   Nandina has few insect and disease pests, however the dwarf kinds
are susceptible to powdery mildew.               For more gardening
information and suggestions, call the county agent or home economist
in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Palms. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1220
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1220,
"Palms."
   Most palms are too large to use as house plants, but the pygmy
palm and the parlor palm can be used indoors.
   The pygmy palm grows best in diffused light and is happy in an
east window where it can get morning sun.  If it shows sign of leaf
burn, move it a few feet from the window or put sheer curtains
between it and the glass.  It can eventually grow as tall as 12 feet,
but it takes many years before it even begins to form a trunk.
   The parlor palm grows rapidly to about eight feet in height.  It is
tolerant of dim light, so it's ideal to use against an inside wall of a
room.
   Both palms grow best in a regular potting soil mixture containing
one part peat, one part garden loam and one part sand.  Keep the soil
evenly moist, except in winter.  In winter, let the soil become dry to
the touch before watering.  Sponge the leaves with a damp cloth about
once a week.  Palms like a warm temperature--about 76 to 78 degrees.
   Large containers, like tubs, are good for palms.  They can grow for
years in the same container, but do re-pot them every few years.
While many foliage plants require daily care, once palms adjust to
home conditions, they need little care.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Photinia. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1223
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1223,
"Photinia."
   Photinia...usually called "red tip"...is an excellent choice for a
screen or hedge planting.  This evergreen shrub is a native of China
and a member of the rose family.
   Photinia grows to a height of 15 to 20 feet, and it can be grown
as a multi-stemmed large shrub or as a small tree.  Repeated pruning
may be necessary to get the form and intensity you want.
   The new growth on photinia is a brilliant red.  This is why it's
sometimes called "red tip."  The red changes to dark green as the
growth matures.
   Photinia grows well in most soils as long as they aren't too wet.
In wet, poorly drained soils, photinia is subject to root rot.  The plant
likes either full sun or partial shade.
   The most popular variety is the hybrid Frazieri...spelled F-R-A-Z-I-
E-R-I.  It is tolerant of most growing conditions and most weather
conditions.  It can be damaged by a late frost though.  Other
photinias that grow well in heavy soils are Chinese photinia and red
leaf photinia.  Don't plant photinia too close to a building.  It should
be at least five or six feet away from the foundation.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pyracantha. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1225
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1225,
"Pyracantha."
   Pryacantha, commonly called firethorn, is a shrub that is often
misplaced in the landscape.  This rapid growing, broadleaf evergreen is
not recommended for planting around the foundation of a single story
building.  It grows too large too fast.
   On the other hand, pyracantha makes an excellent hedge.  It can
be espaliered against a wall, but you should realize how much
maintenance is required to prune a pyracantha.  Also, if pyracantha is
planted under an overhang or eaves, where direct rainfall cannot hit
the branches, pests such as spider mites are likely to be a problem.
   Pyracantha can grow to a height of 8 to 15 feet, and it can spread
to be that wide.  Pyracantha grows upright...in fact, old plants become
almost tree-like.  Pyracantha produces good fall color because its
clusters of berries turn red then.  The berries will last until spring.
Pyracantha should be planted in a sunny place.
   Pyracantha has one distinct characteristic.  Instead of young stems
terminating in a bud or additional shoot, they seem to die and develop
into a spine-like point.  These points can be quite painful if you get
stuck by them.
   Flowers and berries of pyracantha are produced only on growth
that is at least one year old.  So, some of the older growth must be
left on the plant when it is pruned, if you expect to have any flowers
and berries. 
Pruning can be done at almost any season, but winter or early                   
spring pruning is recommended.  If you wait until early spring when
flowering occurs, you can selectively prune to leave flower clusters so
you will have berries in the fall.  Some pruning may be necessary
during spring and summer to remove excessive growth.  Remember,
always leave some of the growth made each year so you'll have
flowers and berries.
   If you would like to have more gardening information or other
suggestions, call the county agent or home economist in your parish
office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Vines. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/2/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1228
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1228,
"Vines."
   Louisiana gardeners have vines for every season and almost every
reason for use in landscaping.  There's even some species that appear
designed for the impatient gardener who wants an instant landscape.
These include the morning glory, hyacinth bean, and cypress vines.
   Seasonal varieties feature such spring species as the Carolina
jasmine, wisteria and red honeysuckle.  Popular early summer
specimens are the star, often called the Confederate jasmine, morning
glory, hyacinth bean, cypress vine, and the Rosa de Montana or coral
vine.  The Virginia creeper and autumn clematis are two fall favorites.
   These vines have many functional as well as attractive uses.
Unsightly chain-link fences can be decoratively draped and patios
screened for privacy with evergreen vines.  English ivy flourishes in
partial or full shade while Confederate jasmine drapes well in shade or
sun.
   When vines are used overhead for shade over sunny patios or as
backdrops at pool side, select a variety that will loose its leaves in
cold weather to allow warm rays from the winter sun to filter
through.  Popular vines for overhead structures include wisteria,
grapes, morning glory and Rosa de Montana.
   In spite of their beauty, keep in mind some fast-growing vines such
as wisteria and common honeysuckle can be a nuisance.  Such rapid
spreading vines demand fast and routine control to keep them in place.
If allowed to spread, their profuse growth can cover the tops of
shrubs, cutting off proper light and aeration.  Also, large twining
vines, such as wisteria, can injure a tree by choking off the flow of
food from the roots.                             A better variety to
plant near trees is the English ivy which doesn't feed off their trunks
and branches.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the home
economist or county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Waxmyrtle. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1230
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1230,
"Waxmyrtle."
   Waxmyrtle is native to the sandy swamplands of coastal Louisiana
and other southeastern states.  However, it can be grown in all parts
of Louisiana.
   Waxmyrtle is a most versatile landscape shrub.  You can use
waxmyrtle as a screen or hedge...as a specimen plant for a patio or
deck, or you can prune away the lower branches and use it as a small
tree.  But don't use waxmyrtle as a foundation plant.  It gets too big
to be a foundation plant.
   Waxmyrtle is a broadleaf evergreen which grows to a height of 15
to 20 feet and spreads to a width of 10 to 12 feet.  The leaves are
dark green and have a pleasing odor when they're crushed.  Waxmyrtle
tends to develop multiple stems and the bark is attractive, which is
why some people like to use it as a small tree.
   Where other broadleaf evergreens have trouble growing because of
such things as poor soil and poor drainage, you can usually use
waxmyrtle.
   One word of caution:  Waxmyrtle is difficult to transplant from
native areas, but it can be purchased at most garden centers.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Air-layering. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/2/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1232
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1232,
"Air-layering."
   If your tropical plants have that worn out, ragged look after
spending a winter inside the home, there's a way they can be
revitalized without spending money on new ones.
   In most cases they can be rejuvenated by an uncomplicated process
known as air-layering.  And, the materials needed to put new life into
old plants can be found around the home.
   Ideal candidates for air-layering include such plants as schefflera,
dracaena, dieffenbachia and rubber plants that have become very tall
and spindly with age.  This condition causes leaves at the bottom to
drop off and leave a cluster at the top of the stalk.
   In making an air-layer, you're going to root the top portion of a
plant while it is still attached to the trunk.  You will need a sharp
knife, moist peat moss or sphagnum moss, heavy plastic or kitchen foil
and a freezer or bread bag tie.
   Begin by making a small v-shaped cut around the stem at the place
where new root growth is desired.  Place a cluster of moist peat moss
or sphagnum moss around the cut.  Wrap the heavy plastic or foil
around the moss and use the freezer bag or bread bag tie to hold the
covering in place around the cut.
   Roots should begin forming in three to four weeks.  Once you
observe a heavy mass of roots, cut below the root formation and plant
the new cutting in a standard potting mix. 
For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county                 
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Controlling Powdery Mildew on Shrubs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/19/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1233
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1233,
"Controlling Powdery Mildew on Shrubs."
   Powdery mildew can affect many Louisiana shrubs.  The severity of
this disease depends on several things:  the age and condition of the
plants, when the plan is infected, and the weather conditions during
the growing season.
   Plants in Louisiana that can be affected seriously by powdery
mildew are roses, zinnias, crape myrtle and euonymous.  Infected
plants typically have a grayish-white, powdery coating over the leaves.
Later in the season this coating may be dotted with small brown or
black specks.  Infected leaves are often distorted, curled or twisted.
They may be smaller than normal.  Leaves that are affected seriously
may be yellow with small patches of green.  They may fall
prematurely.
   Mildew likes warm weather.  It can be found in mid-summer when
most fungi have stopped growing.  Mildew is most severe on young,
succulent tissue resulting from heavy nitrogen fertilization and
watering.  The disease is usually more common in crowded plantings.
   Because environment plays a large role in the development of
powdery mildew, you may be able to control the disease by making the
environment less attractive to it.  Space plantings so air can circulate,
and avoid poorly drained soils.  Collect and remove lawn clippings.
Don't apply too much water and fertilizer.  Rake and burn infected
leaves and shoots to destroy the overwintering stages of the fungus. 
Chemical control of powdery mildew is effective.  Use it if the                 
disease is serious enough to justify the expense.  Because most of the
mildew fungus is external, this disease is among the few that can be
controlled after infection has occurred.  Several fungicides are
available for mildew control.  Among these are sulfur, Karathane,
Actidione PM, Phaltan, Benomyl and Triforene.  Use them with care
and according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Espaliering Shrubs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1236
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1236,
"Espaliering Shrubs."
   Espalier is the practice of controlling plant growth so that it grows
flat against something such as a wall.  Should you decide to use an
espaliered plant in your landscape, be sure you select a plant which
can be managed on the wall.  Large, fast-growing plants like
pyracantha require a huge walled area and they need many hours of
pruning every year.
   On the other hand, Camellia Sasanqua grows much slower and can
be managed in a small area fairly easily.
   Most nurseries have several different plants that have already had
the first pruning to give them their basic shape.  However, almost any
young plant can be used this way.
   You should put the plant very near the wall and set it in the
ground just as you would most other plants.  As the plant grows, you
will need to anchor it to the wall...you can get the small anchoring
devices from your nursery or garden center.
   You should keep in mind that in most situations, you will not want
more than one espaliered plant in a given area...the exception would
be if the plant looked very natural or was not prominent.
   An espaliered plant can be a very distinctive feature in your
landscape and can often be used where no other plant can be used.
   If you would like to have more information about espaliering
shrubs, call the county agent or home economist in your parish office
of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                               n Service.nomist in your parish officey          
-End-
-Title-
Fertilizing Shrubs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1237
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1237,
"Fertilizing Shrubs."
   March is the recommended time to fertilize shrubs that are already
established in your lawn.  Soil tests indicate that the three elements
most often needed by the soil are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
There are several specialty fertilizers on the market for various plants
and they all do a fine job of providing the elements the plants need.
There are special formulations for azaleas, camellias, roses and
lawns...just to name a few.  However, a complete fertilizer such as 8-
8-8 will also do a good job as an all-purpose plant food.
   How much fertilizer the plant gets depends on several things such
as the age of the plant, fertility of the soil and the texture of the
soil.  But, in general, for individual shrubs, you should apply from
one-half cup to a full cup of a complete fertilizer for each plant.
Now, for newly-planted shrubs..you would use only half this much.
   To fertilize shrubs, scratch through the mulch beneath the plant
until you get down to the soil.  Spread the fertilizer evenly around
the plant.  Don't apply it in bands and don't touch the stem of the
shrub with the dry fertilizer.
   Usually, there is enough rain in the spring to activate the
fertilizer...so, you're not likely to need to add water.
   If you would like more information and suggestions about fertilizing
shrubs, call the county agent or home economist in your parish office
of the LSU cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Ground Covers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1240
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1240,
"Ground Covers."
   Ground covers play a major role in landscape developments.
However, protecting these ground covers against weeds and grasses
can be frustrating, especially during the early days following
planting.
   The saying "the first year ground covers sleep...the second year
they creep, and the third year they leap" is an easy way for you to
remember the growth rate of ground covers.  The first two years, you
must be patient yet persistent in keeping your bed free of weeds.
Once the weeds take over, there's not much chance of saving the
ground cover.
   The best way to control weeds is to pull them by hand regularly.
You can kill the weeds with herbicides...but you're as likely to
kill the ground cover as you are the weeds.
   You can make the weeding job easier by keeping a thick layer of
mulch around the ground cover.  Water the bed well before you weed
it and you'll find it much easier to dig up the weeds.
   To make sure you get enough coverage, your ground cover plants
need to be set out just right.  For example, the grass-like ground
cover plants, like border grasses, need to be set about eight inches
apart to provide coverage in two years.
   When there is enough moisture--about an inch each week--from
either rainfall or irrigation, ground covers will thrive on regular
fertilization.  Don't fertilize after October.
   Once the ground is covered with your chosen plants, they will
compete with the weeds and grasses, making your job easier.  Then
you can sit back and enjoy your almost maintenance free ground
covers.
 
For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free   enarsengs        
pamphlet called "Groundcovers," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Salt-tolerant Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1246
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1246,
"Salt-tolerant Plants."
   Plants vary in their ability to grow in the presence of salts.
Generally, they're classified as tolerant, moderately tolerant or
sensitive to salts.
   Salts in the soil are referred to as soluble salts or total dissolved
solids (TDS).  Sodium chloride is the primary salt, but nitrates,
suphates and other soluble nutrients make up the total dissolved solids.
   Most fertilizers contain salts.  So, adding too much fertilizer
increases the salts in the soil.  If you use water with a high salt
content to water your plants, the salt can build up in the soil to a
level high enough to damage or even kill plants.  Salts can be
removed by leaching or washing them out with water that has little or
no salt in it.
   Salt-tolerant plants include some vines, shrubs and small trees.
Salt-tolerant vines are trailing lantana, lilytuft, Japanese honeysuckle
and dwarf lilytuft.  Shrubs and small trees that are salt-tolerant
include Harland's Box, thorny elaeagnus, yaupon and pfitzer juniper.
   For more information about which plants grow best in your area,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
When to Prune Flowering Shrubs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/l7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1255
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1255,
"When to Prune Flowering Shrubs."
   March is the time to prune your spring-flowering shrubs.  By
pruning the shrubs as soon as the flowers have disappeared, the plants
will have time to grow new shoots before the middle of the summer.
This is when they produce the buds for next spring's flowers.
   Some of the shrubs which should be pruned during March include
azaleas, flowering quince, forsythia, bridal wreath, nandina and
primrose jasmine.
   You should prune most flowering shrubs so that about a third of
the oldest and tallest shoots are removed each year.  Cut these leggy
shoots to within four to six inches of the ground.  The stubs left
after pruning will produce new shoots to fill in near the bottom.  This
should make the plant more compact.
   After you've finished this pruning, thin out the top of the plant.
You do this by making random cuts...being careful not to make the
plant look as though it's been butchered or severely sheared.  An
annual pruning is much better than a severe one that is done after
several years of growth.
   If you would like to have more information about pruning flowering
shrubs or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Shrubs for
Louisiana Landscapes," call the county agent or home economist in you
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                               ative Extension Service.onomist in yourse        
-End-
-Title-
Brown Patches. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1301
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1301, "Brown Patches."
   The most serious disease in Louisiana lawns is brown patch.  It's
caused by a fungus which attacks almost all species of grasses during
the warm, humid early spring or fall weather.  Brown patch is
especially serious on St. Augustine and centipede grasses.
   Several factors can make grasses more susceptible to brown patch.
Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizer promotes lush growth that
is readily attacked.  Another condition that leads to severe disease
development is watering late in the afternoon.  This allows the grass
to stay wet for a long time, which makes it easier for the fungus to
grow.
   You'll recognize brown patch by the development of irregular
circular areas from a few inches in diameter to several feet in
diameter.  These areas begin as brownish orange to yellow
discolorations in the lawn.  These scalded-looking areas spread rapidly
and become large brown areas.  Generally, brown patch attacks only
the leaves and stems of the grass, but it can cause severe damage if
uncontrolled.
   To control brown patch, be sure to avoid overwatering and
overfertilization.  Use chemicals to control the fungus, if necessary.
The recommended chemicals are...Benomyl, Terraclor, Daconil 2787 and
Chipco 26019.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
_30
-End-
-Title-
Dethatching Lawns. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/30/82 (Meadows)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1302
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1302,
"Dethatching Lawns."
   Thatch is the term used to describe the accumulation or buildup of
undecomposed clippings in the lawn.  Excessive thatch buildup is
harmful because it slows the growth of grass and interferes with
insect and disease control measures. It also keeps moisture from
penetrating uniformly when the lawn is watered.  A thickness greater
than one-fourth inch is undesirable.
   To prevent thatch buildup, remove clippings when you mow,
especially if you have vigorous, dense grass like St. Augustine and
zoysia.
   Dethatching is usually done in the late summer but it can be done
in late spring or early summer if the problem is serious.  If excessive
thatch buildup does occur, it should be removed.  This can be done
manually with rakes or mechanically with a machine called a de-
thatcher.  Manual removal is difficult and usually less effective than
using a de-thatcher.  Many garden and hardware equipment centers
rent de-thatchers to homeowners.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for your lawn,
call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               

.
-End-
-Title-
Garden Trimmers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/15/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1303
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1303,
"Garden Trimmers."
   Garden trimmers which use a monofiliment line to cut weeds and
grass may damage trees, shrubs and vines if you don't use them
correctly.  These gardens trimmers can be very useful...but they
should be used for the jobs they were meant to be use for.
   Garden trimmers are excellent for trimming weeds and grasses
along driveways, walks, fences, around garden beds and the
foundation of your house.  However, if you allow the cutting line to
hit stems of small trees, shrubs or vines, you're likely to lose
part of bark off that plant.
   A ring of bark removed from around these plants results in what
is called girdling.  Girdling of the stem causes a situation in
which food can't move from the leaves to the roots.  Gradually, the
roots die...then the top of the tree turns brown and eventually, the
entire plant dies because the it can't get water from the roots and
the roots can't get food from the leaves.
   It's not uncommon to see shrub borders damaged and dying because
of the improper use of garden trimmers.  Remember, when you use one
of these tools, be sure you stay far enough away from the trunk of
small trees, shrubs and vines so that the line doesn't strike the
stem of the plants.
   If you would like to have more information about garden trimmers,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Lawn Fertilization. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/8/82 (Curtis)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1304
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1304,
"Lawn Fertilization."
   A lush, green lawn doesn't just happen.  It requires good
management and tender, loving care.
   To begin with, you must choose a grass suited to the soils and
climate.  Then, you must provide adequate fertilization and water, you
must control the weeds, and you must keep the lawn free of insects
and diseases.
   Fertilization of lawns should be based on the type of grass you
have, the level of soil fertility and the lawn management used.  For
best results, remove grass clippings from your lawn.  You'll need more
fertilizer, however, than if you leave the clippings on the lawn.
   In the highly fertile soils of the Mississippi River Valley, you may
not need to add lime, phosphate and potassium except where clippings
are removed.  Normally, applying a mixed fertilizer in the spring will
be sufficient.  Apply six to ten pounds of a fertilizer like 8-8-8 or
amounts of other fertilizer mixture to provide an equal amount of
nitrogen, phosphate and potassium per one thousand square feet.
   On soils of low fertility, apply twelve to fifteen pounds of a
fertilizer like 8-8-8 per one thousand square feet in the spring.
Throughout the growing season, you'll need to apply one-and-a-half to
two pounds of ammonium nitrate or other nitrogen fertilizer to supply
one-half to three-fifths of a pound of nitrogen per one thousand
square feet every eight to ten weeks.
   Remember:  Good care and adequate fertilizer can give you a lush,
green lawn.
   For more information and suggestions about lawn care, call the
county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Lawn Insects. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1305
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1305, "Lawn Insects."
   There are four groups of lawn insects...those that infest soil and
roots...those that feed on leaves and stems...those that suck plant
juices...and those that live in the lawn but don't damage it.  The
hardest part of controlling any of these insects is identifying them.
   The first group of insects...those that infest soil and
roots...includes grubs, ants, mole crickets and bees.  Grubs are the
larvae of several species of beetles.  They are either white or
gray...they have brown heads and brown or black hind parts.  They're
usually C-shaped with three distinct pairs of legs.
   Most grubs spend about ten months of the year in the ground.
They burrow around the roots of the grass and feed on those roots
about an inch below the surface of the soil.  Moles, armadillos, skunks
and birds feed on the grubs and may tear up the sod looking for
them.
   You can estimate the size of the grub population in your lawn.
Using a spade, cut a strip of grass one foot square.  Cut the square
two-to-three inches deep on three sides.  Then, force the spade under
the sod and lay it back...loosen the soil and count the grubs.  You'll
need to do this in several areas of the yard.  If you count as many as
six grubs per square foot, you need to control them.
   Ants also fall into that first group which infests soil and roots...in
fact they build nests in the soil.  Some ants...like fire ants...build
mounds.  Others form little hills or mounds of soil around the
openings to the nest.  Ants can destroy the roots of grass if they
build the nests around them because the nesting tend to dry out the
soil.  Ants also destroy grass seed in the soil and prevent them from
sprouting and producing grass.
 
Mole crickets also infest soil.  They're brown, about an inch-and-a-   in       
half long, have short, stout forelegs, shovel-like feet, and large eyes.
Mole crickets feed on the roots of grass and their burrowing uproots
seedlings and causes the soil to dry out quickly.
   Wild bees and solitary wasps are more of a nuisance than a problem
in lawns...but, where infestations are heavy they may interfere with
growth of grass...particularly in new plantings.  Wild bees and solitary
wasps dig holes in the soil for nests and pile the soil around the
openings.  They're primarily a pest in sandy soils.
   The second group of insects which feed on leaves and stems
includes caterpillars, cutworms, armyworms, and sod webworms.  All of
these insects damage the lawn by feeding on the grass and cutting the
grass.  The damage may be in various spots in the lawn or may cover
the entire yard.  This is probably the most destructive group of
insects because a heavy infestation can completely destroy a yard in a
matter of days.
   Those insects which suck juice are the chinch bugs.  These pests
injure plants by draining them of their life fluids.  All stages of these
insects, except the egg, injure plants.  The damage appears as yellow
spots which grow rapidly, turn brown and die.  St. Augustine grass is
the main victim of chinch bugs and suffers most in hot, dry weather.
   Those insects which get in lawns but don't damage them include
slugs, snails, earwigs, fleas, ticks, chiggers, millipedes, centipedes,
sowbugs or pillbugs and spiders.  All of these insects feed on organic
matter or other insects in the lawn or other animals which cross the
lawn.
   For more information and suggestions about controlling insects in
your lawn, call the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Lawn Renovation. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82 (Meadows)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1306
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1306,
"Lawn Renovation."
   Renovating a lawn may take one of several directions.  It may
involve re-seeding or plugging areas where existing sod has been killed
by insects or disease.  Or it may mean destroying the existing sod and
re-seeding or re-sodding with new material.
   In cases of partial renovation, remove all grass in the dead areas
by raking or some other method.  Lightly re-till the affected area
before re-seeding or re-sodding.  Water these re-seeded or re-sodded
areas until the new grass is established.
   If you want to change to a different variety of grass, you'll need
to renovate the area completely.  Follow these general procedures:
   First kill the existing grass with a herbicide such as glyphosphate.
   About two weeks after applying the herbicide, till the area to a
depth of two to three inches.  During the tilling process, incorporate
lime and fertilizer according to soil test directions.  Your county
agent can give you information on soil testing.
   After leveling the area, sprig, seed or plug the new grass.
Maintain proper moisture until your new grass is established.
   For more lawn care information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Mushrooms on Lawns. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/4/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1307
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1307,
"Mushrooms on Lawns."
   Sometimes, especially after a rain, mushrooms may appear in groups
on your lawn.  They are the reproductive structures of fungi that are
growing in the ground.  The part you can't see feeds on dead organic
matter in the soil.  Some mushrooms are poisonous, others aren't.  It's
best to leave all mushrooms alone because of the danger of poisoning.
   Sometimes mushrooms appear in circular patterns called fairy rings.
These fairy rings may get larger each year.  Several rings may occur
together.  As the rings grow, they may overlap.  Grass is usually
greener where the mushrooms appear.  This is caused by the release of
additional nutrients into the soil by the underground fungi.  As the
fungi decompose organic matter, the grass uses the nutrients which
are released.  Grass on the inside of the ring may be weakened or
killed.
   Fairy rings may differ in the way they affect your lawn.  Some
may appear occasionally and have no effect.  some may cause only a
greening effect, with no damage to the plants.  A third type damages
or kills plants in the lawn.
   It's hard to control fairy rings.  One method involves removing soil
from where the underground fungi are present.  This means digging a
foot-deep trench 18 inches on each side of the stimulated grass zone.
You'll have to refill the trench with fresh soil and seed or sod the
area.
   A second method involves tilling the whole area and treating it
with fumigants under a plastic tarpaulin.  Recommended fumigants are
Methyl Bromide or Vapam.                         Another approach
involves suppressing the effects of the fungi.  Increase watering and
fertilization inside the ring.  Punch some holes in this area so water
will penetrate.  Water at the first signs of wilting grass.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for your lawn,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Planting Rye Grass. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/15/82 (Meadows)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1308
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1308,
"Planting Rye Grass."
   If you would like a new, green lawn during the winter you should
consider sowing rye grass during late October and November.  Rye
grass flourishes in Louisiana's relatively mild winter.  This type
of grass is nice in landscapes where there's not much green in
winter and especially in sites where there are many trees and shrubs
which lose their leaves.
   A rye grass lawn provides a strong contrast color in the
environment in the winter and is attractive as a background for
spring flowering bulbs and early-flowering trees and shrubs.
However, rye grass will compete with permanent grasses for
fertilizers.  So, it's recommended that you apply a complete
fertilizer when you plant the seed.  Fertilizer applications should
be repeated two months after planting and again four months after
planting.  If you don't fertilize the rye grass, it won't perform as
it should and the permanent grass will be weakened.
   Before you sow the rye seed, cut the permanent grass to a height
of about three-quarters of an inch to an inch.  Make sure the soil
is moist before you sow the seed.  Sow about three to five pounds of
rye grass per 1,000 square feed of lawn surface.  Use a mechanical
spreader so the seed are spread evenly...otherwise you could end up
with patchy appearance. For more uniform distribution, sow half the
seed in one direction and the other half from the opposite
direction.
 
Planting too much seed results in a heavy, matted turf that is   heferlse       
hard to maintain.  Since the cold weather in the state lasts such a
short time, the rye grass can grow for about three months.  If this
growth becomes too heavy, the growth of permanent grass will be
slowed at the start of spring.  Even though high temperatures will
destroy rye grass, this usually happens only after the permanent
grasses have started growing.
   Don't sow rye grass seeds in flower beds or in other areas where
you can't use a lawnmower...you'll end up having to hand weed that
area.  Also, don't let leaves accumulate to any extend on the lawn
after the seed geminate...this will damage the new grass.
   If you would like to have more information about lawn grasses,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Selecting Lawn Grass. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1310
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1310, "Selecting Lawn Grass."
   Careful selection of the proper grass is a must for successful
establishment of any lawn.  Study your lawn area and choose an
adapted grass suited to your situation.  Things you should consider
are:  the amount and density of shade, personal preference as to
texture, the amount of traffic your lawn gets, and the time you can
devote to taking care of the lawn.
   In south Louisiana, you may select from five adapted lawn grasses:
St. Augustine, centipede, zoysia, bermuda and carpet grass.
   In general, St. Augustine and zoysia grasses must be established by
sprigging or plugging.  Centipede grass may be established in this
manner or by using seed.  Common bermuda grass is established by
using seed, hybird bermuda grass by sprigging or plugging.  Carpet
grass is established by using seed.
   Shaded conditions will be tolerated by St. Augustine, zoysia and
centipede grass.  Bermuda grass and carpet grass will not tolerate
shade.
   St. Augustine is susceptible to the diseases brown patch and St.
Augustine decline.  It's also susceptible to chinch bugs.  A new variety
of St. Augustine, called Floratam, resists St. Augustine decline and is
reported to have some resistance to chinch bugs.  It's a vigorous,
coarse-textured grass that should only be planted in the coastal areas
because of freeze damage.
   Centipede grass is susceptible to the disease brown patch.  Zoysia
grass is susceptible to the rust diseases.  Centipede is the most
popular lawn grass now, followed by St. Augustine.
   Consider the advantages and disadvantages of these adapted grasses
and choose the one that fits your needs best. 
For more information and suggestions about lawn grasses or for a                
free pamphlet called "Turfgrasses For Louisiana Lawns," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                ce of the Louisiana Cooperativee                
-End-
-Title-
Slime Molds in Lawn. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/4/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1311
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1311,
"Slime Molds in Lawn."
   Slime molds are unusual fungi that occur on the leaves of grasses.
They can cover spots or patches of grass with a white, grey or dark
material.
   This material is the fruiting body of the slime mold.  It looks slimy
and keeps sunlight from reaching the part of the leaves that produces
chlorophyll, or green color, and it interferes with the plant's ability to
function properly.  Leaves are yellow, weak and they prey to other
diseases.
   Slime mold usually develops in wet weather.  It lives in soil and
feeds on organic matter.  It grows out on grass leaves or stems to
reproduce. Slime molds are non-parasitic and don't warrant control.
However, spraying infested grass with water will help wash away the
molds.
   Slime molds aren't usually a serious problem, but they can cause
some ugly spots in the lawn.  Unless the spot is large or in a
strategic spot, don't worry about it.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for your lawn,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Mowing Lawns. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82 (Meadows)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1314
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1314,
"Mowing Lawns."
   Proper lawn mowing begins with the use of a mower with very
sharp blades.  Dull blades on rotary and reel mowers will produce a
shredded effect on the grass.  It will also cause an ugly brown cast in
the lawn.
   If possible, remove grass clippings when you're mowing.  This helps
avoid excessive thatch buildup which will have to be removed later.
Don't mow in the same direction each time. Alternate your mowing
direction and you'll have more upright grass growth and a smoother-
looking lawn.
   Proper mowing height is important.  Lawn grasses in Louisiana have
different heights at which they should be mowed.  The bermuda
grasses should be mowed at a one-inch height.  Mow centipede and St.
Augustine at a two-inch height.  Mow zoysia grasses at one to one
and one-half inches and carpetgrass at one and one-half to two
inches.
   For more information and suggestions about lawn care, call the
county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Establishing a Lawn. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1315
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1315, "Establishing a Lawn."
   If you're planning to establish a new lawn, have a soil test made.
Your county agent can tell you how.  Information from the test will
be used to prepare the lawn area before planting a selected grass.
   Follow these steps when establishing a new lawn:
   Clear the area of all stones and solid materials and till the area to
a depth of three to four inches.  Make sure the soil is well
pulverized.
   Establish the grade of the lawn and smooth the surface by raking
it or dragging it.
   Broadcast recommended amounts of lime and fertilizer evenly over
the area, and re-till it to a depth of two to three inches.
   Choose a suitable grass.  Consider the amount of shade, competition
from trees and the maintenance requirements of recommended grasses.
   Plant the chosen variety.  If you are seeding grass, split seed into
two lots and seed in a cross-directional manner.  If the grass is to be
plugged or sprigged, plant plugs or sprigs on six- to 12-inch centers.
   Keep the right amount of water on the new grass until it's
established.  Once the grass is established, mow at proper height to
reduce weed competition and to encourage grass to spread.
   For more lawn care information and suggestions for for a free
leaflet called, "Grasses for Louisiana Lawns," call the county agent in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Soil Subsidence In New Orleans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1316
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1316, "Soil Subsidence In New Orleans."
   Good mineral soils, the kinds that homes are built on, are limited
in the New Orleans metropolitan area.  So, growth and development
have been forced into less desirable reclaimed marsh and swamp lands.
These lands contain soils that are high in organic materials, causing
subsidence when drained.
   If your home is on reclaimed land, you may have problems with soil
subsidence.
   To maintain the aesthetic value of your homesite, filling is
necessary to avoid sunken lawns and exposed foundation footings,
resulting from subsidence.
   Good organic soils...or black garden soils...are not recommended for
use as fill material.  These soils generally are highly organic and will
oxidize and subside.  It is suggested that you use a good mineral soil
such as Bonnet Carre Spillway sand.  This soil contains most of the
necessary nutrients for plant growth and spreads easily.
   Filling periodically as needed is generally preferable to adding thick
layers after several inches or more of subsidence has occurred.
Regular addition of one or two inches of good mineral soil generally
will not permanently harm most of your lawn grasses and landscaping
plants.
   For more information on soil subsidence, contact the county agent
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Problems with Bald Cypress Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1401
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1401,
"Problems with Bald Cypress Trees."
   The bald cypress...Louisiana's state tree...is a good tree for your
landscape because it's hardy and not likely to break or topple in
storms.
   Homeowners only have two complaints about bald cypresses--one is
that cypress knees grow up through their lawns, and the other is galls
that form on the tree's leaves.
   If cypress knees grow up through your lawn, simply remove them.
The belief that cypress knees are "breathing points" for the tree has
been disproved.  It doesn't damage the tree to cut off the knees.  In
fact, foresters aren't sure what the knees do for the tree.
   If you're planting cypresses in your lawn, remember that knees are
more likely to form on trees planted on wet sites.

   Galls, or abnormal growths, on the leaves of the cypress are caused
by an insect in the wasp family.  It stings the leaves to cause the
galls to form and protect its eggs.  The galls don't hurt the tree at
all.
   You'll probably find the tree's other characteristics are desirable.
It's a fast-growing tree...particularly for the first ten years.  Mature
cypresses can be 100 to 125 feet tall.  When trees are young, they'll
have a pyramid shape.  But, as they get older, their branches will
start to droop near the tips and the trunks swell at the base.
   The cypress' light-green color and fern-like leaves will add to your
landscape.  In the fall, cypresses turn a pretty copper color.
 
For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees    youreko      
around your home or for a free pamphlet called "Trees For Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Problems with Dogwoods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1402
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1402, "Problems with Dogwoods."
   Although dogwoods are pretty trees, you shouldn't try to use them
in lawns in the New Orleans area.
   The trees get leafspot disease, they're favorites of bark boring
insects, and they're subject to flower, branch and twig die-back.  In
addition, because the tree has shallow roots, it blows over easily and
can't withstand dry periods.
   If you still want to use dogwoods, plant the tree on a mound and
add sand to the soil.  You often can control the pests with sprays.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees
around your house or for a free pamphlet called "Trees For Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                       
-End-
-Title-
Problems with Magnolias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
 Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1404
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1404,
"Problems with Magnolias."
   Despite the popularity of southern magnolias and the fact its bloom
is the state flower, the tree is only moderately rated as a shade tree
in New Orleans because of problems the tree has.
   Southern magnolias have heavy leaf drop, some serious insect
problems and are sensitive to injuries.
   Before planting a southern magnolia, be sure heavy leaf drop
doesn't bother you.  Leaves will fall off throughout the year, but
especially in the spring and fall.  Spring is the season for leaves on
evergreens..such as the magnolia...to turn yellow and drop off.
   Leafspot also causes leaves to fall off.  Spots are usually caused by
either algae or fungus, and you can treat it by spraying with a
fungicide at the proper time.
   Magnolias have two serious insect problems...scale insects and leaf
miners.  Scale insects look like miniature seashells and feed on young
twigs. If uncontrolled, they can weaken the tree.  Leaf miners feed on
the inside of the leaf tissue.  As the name implies, they mine out the
inside of the leaves.  There is no control at present for leaf miners.
   The trees are also vulnerable to diseases that enter through
mechanical injuries.  So, be careful not to skin the trunk with the
lawn mower.
 
Magnolias are also sensitive to placing soil on its roots.  If you   .byko      
cover the roots of a magnolia with much soil, the tree will die.  The
trees are also subject to root rot, so you should plant the tree on
natural ridges or gently sloping ridges.
   They prefer rich, slightly acidic soils.
   Southern magnolias are beautiful trees, but do have some problems.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees
around your house for for a free pamphlet called "Trees For Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Problems with Mimosas. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1406
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1406,
"Problems with Mimosas."
   The mimosa...or silk tree...has been an important part of our
Southern landscape.  But, unfortunately a fungus disease for which
there is no control has been wiping out many of the trees.  So, you
may want to reconsider planting the mimosa.
   The leaves of an infected tree will wilt and yellow, then die and
drop.  You'll find brownish or black discolorations just under the bark
of infected trees.
   Although there is no control for the disease, resistant varieties are
being tested.  You may wish to wait to plant mimosas until a resistant
variety is released.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees
around your house or for a free pamphlet called "Trees For Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Live Oaks, Fertilization. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/17/82 (Pope) Area:  State

Tele-Tip 1408
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1408,
"Live Oaks, Fertilization."
   You may believe that the next generation will be the only people
who benefit from a live oak tree planted now...but, that's not really
true.  With proper care, a live oak will grow faster and will provide
more benefits than you may think in only five years.
   Fertilizer and water are the keys to whether a live oak grows as
rapidly as it can.  At least one major feeding in late winter or early
spring is essential for this rapid growth.  Apply a complete fertilizer
at the rate of one and a half pounds for each year of the tree's age.
A complete fertilizer is one such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10.
   You should put the fertilizer in small holes under the canopy of
the tree.
   The second feeding should come in mid-summer and this will help
young trees because under good conditions, a second spurt of growth
is likely at this time.  Nitrogen is especially important for this second
growth stage.
   Large, well-established trees should have only one application of
fertilizer a year.  In fact, trees which have become as large as they
need to be probably shouldn't be fertilized more than once every other
year.  When the tree gets large, you should be more concerned with
keeping it healthy than helping it grow larger.
   Water is another key element in encouraging live oaks to grow
rapidly. The first two growing seasons are the most critical for the
live oak.  Don't allow a tree to show stress before you start watering
it.  Maintain moist soil at all times.           If you would like to
have more information about fertilizing live oak trees, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Live Oak Trees, Pruning. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1409
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1409,
"Live Oak Trees, Pruning."
   Because of its strength and long life, the live oak is one of
Louisiana's most widely used evergreen trees.  But, you should know
that it's life and quality are greatly influenced by pruning.
   The natural form of a typical live oak is low, broad-spreading
and mounding.  For many situations, the tree takes this form only
because it was pruned when it was young.
   When the tree's environment requires that it be pruned, it should
begin when the tree is young and continue throughout the tree's
life.  If you want a taller, more arching tree, choose a young tree
with the highest branches possible.  Otherwise, remove the lower
branches.  Also, you will want to remove limbs that have narrow
angles because they will normally develop into weak crotches later.
   As a live oak matures, it's important that you follow through
with good pruning.  The canopy must be thinned every three to five
years to keep it open so wind can move more freely through the
branches.  Resistance to winds is the reason many live oak limbs
break.
   Pruning lower branches near the trunk is important...but perhaps
the greatest pruning need is to thin the large, heavy tufts of
growth that form on the ends of the branches.  If these are left
unpruned, the limbs often break during storms because of the great
weight that causes them to sway back and forth.
   Of course, opening the canopy of the live oak tree also allows
for the grass and other plants under the tree to grow better. 
A large live oak tree can be the source of a lot of pleasure and                
can be worth a great deal of money.  Be sure you know what you're
doing when you start pruning yours.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Problems with Pines. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1410
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1410,
"Problems with Pines."
   Pines are one of the favorite trees to plant around homes in our
area.  But, if you're planning to plant pines in your yard, you should
know some of the problems you might have.
   Pines planted around homes can develop several problems.
   One of the most common...and the most serious...is fusiform rust.
This disease causes weak places in the trunk, making the tree more
likely to break in windstorms.  Fusiform swellings look like
indentations on the trunk.  Sometimes a boring insect gets in this
indentation.  As it bores, pine pitch...a sticky, white material...oozes
out around the swelling.  Usually it's best to remove trees with
fusiform rust.
   Most people get upset when their pine's needles turn yellow or
orange and begin dropping off.  In the fall, the dropping of interior
needles is natural.  Don't be alarmed about natural needle drop during
the fall..but if yellowing occurs, have the tree checked by an expert.
   Pines also have several insect problems.  The most serious is the
bark beetle.  The beetle that attacks most pines in landscapes is the
IPS beetle.  It usually invades weakened trees or those stressed by
drought.  You'll notice small holes in the trunk, a fine sawdust, and
pine pitch may ooze out and harden into what looks like popcorn.
Finally your tree will turn orange and brown.  By the time the tree
has turned completely, the insects may have already attacked another
tree.  So, you should remove a dead tree with beetle symptoms before
the insects spread.  Also, spray neighboring pines with a
recommended insecticide as soon as possible.
 
Southern pines are used in pulpwood and lumber in Louisiana and   red.es        
play an important role in the state's economy.  But, pines used in the
landscape in wet areas may not be a wise choice.
   For more information and suggestions about trees for your
landscape, call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Birch Problems. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1411
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1411, "Birch Problems."
   Birch trees are beautiful and graceful.  Used mainly on lawns, they
are susceptible to several fungus parasites and insect pests.  Of these,
the bronze birch borer is the main killer of birch trees used in
ornamental plantings.
   The bronze birch borer beetles feed on foliage and deposit their
eggs in slits in the bark.  They make flat, irregular, winding galleries
just beneath the bark of the main trunk.  Heavy infestations can kill
trees.  To control the bronze birch borer, spray the trunk and
branches thoroughly and the leaves lightly with methoxychlor or
Lindane as directed by the manufacturer.  Spray in early June and
twice more at two-week intervals.  Keep trees healthy by feeding and
watering them as needed.
   Other pests of birch trees are...leaf blister, leaf rust, leaf spot, die
back, wood decay, case bearer, birch leaf miner, birch skeletonizer and
other fungi and insects.
   Leaf blister is caused by fungi.  Two types of fungi produce red
blisters and curling of leaves on birch trees.  Another fungus forms
yellow blisters.  To control leaf blister, gather and burn all fallen
leaves.  Spray trees with ferbam or Maneb just before buds open in
the spring.  Ferbam is spelled f-e-r-b-a-m.  Maneb is spelled M-a-n-e-
b.
   Leaf rust causes spotting and defoliation.  The rust pustules are
bright reddish-yellow.  The spores from these pustules carry the
infection from leaf to leaf.  In ornamental planting, the disease rarely
becomes destructive enough to warrant special control measures.
 
Leaf spot is the name of several fungi which attack birch trees.   arelydie     
They may cause premature defoliation.  Control can usually be
obtained by gathering and burning fallen leaves.  To prevent leaf spot,
spray the tree with a bordeaux mixture or any other copper spray in
the late spring.
   Die-back fungus attacks trees weakened by drought.  It causes a
progressive die-back of upper branches.  Infestations of the bronze
birch borer may cause similar symptoms, too.  Prune the affected
branches to sound wood.  Fertilize and water the trees heavily to help
revitalize them.
   A number of wood decay fungi attack birches.  Once they become
extensive, they can't be controlled.  Avoid wounding the trees and
maintain good vigor by fertilization.  These are the best preventative
practices.
   Birches are also subject to several other fungus diseases such as
powdery mildew and leaf spot.  Several fungicides are available to help
control these fungus diseases.
   Two aphids affect birch trees:  the European birch aphid and the
common birch aphid.  The European birch aphid is yellow.  It infests
cut leaved and other birch varieties.  The common birch aphid is large
and green.  It produces honeydew followed by sooty mold.  Spray trees
thoroughly with Orthene, Diazinon, dimethoate or malathion as soon as
these aphids appear.
   The case bearer, a light yellow to green caterpillar with a black
head, also attacks birch trees.  The pest overwinters...or lives through
the winter...as a larva in a case attached to the bark.  Spray in late
July or early August with a standard malathion solution or spray in
late spring, before growth begins, with one part of concentrated lime
sulfur in eight parts of water.
 
The birch leaf miner, a small white worm, causes leaves to turn   imeeghdie     
brown in late spring or early summer.  The adult is a small black
sawfly which lives through the winter in the soil.  The first brood
causes the most damage because it attacks tender spring foliage.
Broods hatching during the summer cause less damage because they
feed only on leave on sucker growths and on newly developing leaves
in the crowns of trees.
   To control the leaf miner, spray with Diazinon, cygon, malathion or
Orthene.  For best control, make two additional applications at 10-day
intervals after the first spraying in early spring.
   Birch skeletonizer is another insect pest of birch trees.  As a result of
its feeding, the lower leaf surface is chewed and the leaf is skeletonized and
may turn brown.  To control the birch skeletonizer, spray the upper and lower
sides of the leaves with Orthene about mid-July.
   For more information and suggestions about birch trees, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Sycamore Problems. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/10/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1412
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1412,
"Sycamore Problems."
   The most serious disease of sycamore trees is leaf blight...also
known as anthracnose and scorch.  The destructiveness of this
disease...which can be severe in some parts of the state every
year...is often under-estimated.  Although a single attack is seldom
harmful, repeated attacks can weaken trees and make them
susceptible to winter injury and damage by borers.
   The first symptom of leaf blight is the sudden browning and death
of single leaves or clusters of leaves as they're expanding in the
spring.  This is often confused with frost injury.  Later...brown, dead
areas appear along and between the veins of other leaves.  Trees may
be defoliated and remain bare until late summer when new leaves are
formed.  Leaf blight may attack and kill small twigs, too.  Cankers
appear on the leaf spurs and on twigs...and they look like sunken
areas with slightly raised margins.  Trees moderately infected with leaf
blight will have scattered clusters of dead leaves which contrast
sharply with unaffected foliage.
   A fungus with several distinctly different types of spores causes
blight.  The fungus may live through the winter in the vegetative
stage in fallen infected leaves and in twig cankers.  In the South, it
spends the winter in the spore stage on dormant buds.  The first
infections of the young leaves in spring may originate from spores
that lived through the winter on leaves on the ground...or from spores
developed on infected twigs...and from spores on the dormant buds.
 
The prevalence and severity of attacks are determined by weather   resafvewerd  
conditions.  Frequent rains and cool temperatures favor rapid spread.
The severity of the shoot blight stage depend largely on the average
temperature during the two weeks after leaves first emerge.
   To help control diseases of sycamores, gather and burn all the
fallen leaves in the autumn.  This destroys the organism that lives
through the winter and produces spores for the next spring's
infections.  Whenever it's feasible, prune infected spurs and dead twigs
and burn them.  Some control can be provided by spraying zineb or
copper fungicides.  Apply the first spray just before the leaves
unfurl...the second when leaves are half-grown and the third when the
leave are fully grown.  If trees suffer from repeated attacks, fertilize
them heavily in the fall or the next spring to increase their vigor.
   Insects can be a problem on sycamores, too.  They include the
giant bark aphid, the sycamore plant bug, sycamore tussock moth and
scales.
   The giant bark aphid often attacks the twigs of sycamore trees and
may gather in clusters on the undersides of the limbs.  They exude
great quantities of honeydew, a sweet fluid which often turns blackish.
To control aphids, spray them malathion.
   Sycamore plant bugs suck out the plant juices on the upper sides
of sycamore leaves...leaving a poisonous material which results in
yellow or red spots.  As the leaves grow, the injured areas drop out,
leaving holes.  To control the sycamore plant bug, spray trees with
malathion in early April and again two weeks later.
   The sycamore tussock moth is a problem on sycamores in the
northeastern United States.  The caterpillar stage of the moth is
yellow and has yellow to white hairs on its body.  Spraying with the
insecticide Sevin will help control this moth.
 
Several species of scale insects occasionally infest sycamores.  To   .evewerd  
control them, spray your trees with malathion or Orthene in late
spring when the young scales are crawling.  A dormant oil spray
should be applied in early spring if infestations are unusually heavy.
   For more information and suggestions about taking care of your
trees, call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Evergreen Trees Shed, Too. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1415
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1415,
"Evergreen Trees Shed, Too."
   The yellowing of magnolia leaves and the unexpected shedding of
live oak leaves and other evergreens during February and March may
cause you some unnecessary concern. You may think your trees are
dying, but that probably is not what is happening.
   While many native trees drop all their leaves in the fall or
winter...some evergreens, such as the magnolia, shed their leaves all
year-round.  Trees like the live oak will drop their leaves at different
rates in different years depending on the severity of the winter.  The
thing to remember is that all evergreens lose some of their leaves
each year.  Sometimes, they lose all or at least half of their leaves
every year.
   Leaf-drop is part of the natural life process of trees...including
evergreens.  Misunderstanding the term "evergreen" is at the root of
the concern.  Enjoy raking the leaves from your evergreen trees.
   If you would like to have more information about evergreen trees,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                e.omist in your parish office of thegentvewerd  
-End-
-Title-
Fertilizing Trees, Shrubs and Lawns. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/17/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1416
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1416,
"Fertilizing Trees, Shrubs and Lawns."
   If you fertilize your lawn and garden plants during March...they
will respond better then, then at any other time of the year.
   For shrubs you should use about a quarter of a pound of a
complete fertilizer per square yard of area covered by the plant.  A
quarter pound of fertilizer is equal to about a half cup and a
complete fertilizer is one such as 8-8-8.
   Distribute the fertilizer around the plant, but don't let the
fertilizer touch the stems of the plants and don't apply it in bands
around the plant.
   Trees need plant food, too.  Apply one pound of a complete
fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or equivalent for every year of the tree's
life.  The fertilizer should be put in holes that are about eight to
twelve inches deep.  The holes should begin about four feet from the
trunk of the tree and they should extend beyond the spread of the
branches.  The holes should be in a series of rings around the tree.
The rings should be about four feet apart...and the holes should be
about five feet apart.
   Now, looking at lawns.  If you want lush dark green lawn grass,
you're going to have to fertilize it.  You will need to apply about
20 pounds of a complete fertilizer for every thousand square feet of
lawn.  Don't apply the fertilizer when the grass is wet.  However,
after you've distributed the fertilizer, water the lawn to wash the
fertilizer into the soil and to keep it from burning the leaves of
the grass. 
If you would like to have more information about fertilizing                 d  
trees, shrubs and lawns or if you would like to have a free pamphlet
called "Shrubs for Louisiana Landscapes" or "Trees for Louisiana
Landscapes" or "Grasses for Louisiana Lawns," call the county agent
or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Grayish Green Growth on Tree Trunks. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1418
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1418, "Grayish Green Growth on Tree Trunks."
   The cloudy, wet weather of south Louisiana is ideal for algae and
lichens.  These organisms grow profusely on trunks, limbs and twigs of
many trees and shrubs.
   Algae are the simplest form of green plants.  They were probably
the first food-producing organisms and are present nearly everywhere.
They grow in any place that has enough moisture -- on tree trunks,
twigs, shrubs, soil, rocks and walls.
   Lichens have two parts:  a fungus and an algae living in
association with one another to give the appearance of one plant.
Lichens grow on soil, trunks, branches and rocks.  Like algae, lichens
manufacture their own food.  They occur in several forms.  Some are
leaflike; others look like a tuft of horse hair hanging from branches.
They may be crusty growths of white, green, yellow or gray.
   Because all of these primitive plant forms make their own food,
they don't directly injure the plant on which they grow.  Heavy
growth, however, may have a suffocating effect and can reduce the
sunlight reaching the leaves.  Some people like these hitchhiking
plants because they add color to shrubbery and trees in winter.  But
when the growth becomes unattractive, it should be controlled.
   The presence of lichens, algae and mosses on plants may mean the
plant is in poor condition and not growing vigorously.  To control
lichens, algae and mosses, spray trunks with a copper fungicide such
as bordeaux mixture or a fixed copper.
 
For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees in   .       d  
your yard, call the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Identifying Tree Insect Problems. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1419
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1419, "Identifying Tree Insect Problems."
   Insect problems in trees take the form of holes, defoliation, drying
twigs, foliage discoloration or growth malformations.
   Insect holes in trees usually exude some kind of fluid.  In most
cases, borer infestations in trees are due to stress or previous damage
to the tree.  Usually, most people blame ants for damaging a tree, but
it's more likely that they were attracted to the tree after damage was
done...perhaps to feed on insects already infesting the tree.
   Defoliation may be caused by caterpillars or scale insects...although
stress can cause it in some cases.  Caterpillars...such as the buck moth
in early spring...are easy to find.  Scales are a little more secretive in
that you're not likely to notice their damage until large populations
have developed.  In addition to foliage discoloration or spotting, scales
may cause tip die-back.
   Several gall forming insects may cause malformations on trees.
Stems may become swollen and mis-shapen...buds may be retarded or
killed...and leaves may have fluffy, fuzzy or unusual growths on them.
The galls may be caused by small wasps, flies or mites.  Many of
these formations...when they first start...appear decorative.  However,
persistent, continuous infestations can cause terminal die-back.
   Many of these insect-like problems must be carefully checked
because some diseases may cause the same symptoms...particularly
where galls and scale damage are involved.
   For more information about controlling insects, call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Leaf Burn in Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/17/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1420
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1420,
"Leaf Burn in Trees."
   Tree leaves can turn reddish or brown for many reasons.  Leaf spot
diseases and the leaf blister disease are among the causes of this
browning on hardwood tree leaves.  These diseases usually start as
spots and progress through the leaf.  They don't always do serious
harm, and you can control them with chemical sprays.  The chemicals
recommended for preventing these diseases are fixed coppers or a
fungicide known as Benlate.
   You can lessen the effects of leaf burn by fertilizing your trees
and keeping them pruned properly.  Remember, though, that over-
fertilization, dry weather and chemical damage can cause leaves to
turn brown.
   For more information and suggestions about taking care of your
trees or for a free pamphlet called "Maple Diseases and Their
Control," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Mistletoe in Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1421
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1421,
"Mistletoe in Trees."
   Mistletoe may be nice to have for decorating around Christmas, but
it's not very good for the tree it's growing on.
   Mistletoe is a parasite...that is it lives off trees by stealing some
of the water and nutrients that would normally nourish the tree.
Oaks, hackberries, elms and pecan trees seem to be favorites of
mistletoe.
   Controlling mistletoe is hard, because it attaches itself to the
tree's vascular system, the part which carries water and nutrients to
all parts of the tree.  If you simply break off the mistletoe, it'll just
grow back.  To remove mistletoe for good you have to remove the
chip of the tree's vascular system that it's attached to.
   Paint the cut with tree wound paint.  This will keep wood rotting
organisms from getting into the cut.
   If mistletoe is on small limbs, cut the limb about a foot ahead of
the spot where the mistletoe is growing.  Again, you should paint the
cut.
   Mistletoe is spread primarily by birds, which carry the seeds on
their beaks after eating the white berries of the mistletoe.  When
birds wipe their beaks on a tree, the seed finds a home.
   Cutting out the mistletoe is the only way to control it.  Chemicals
that kill mistletoe also hurt the tree.
   For more information about caring for the trees around your home,
call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                rish office of the LSU Cooperativee,lsustn   d  
-End-
-Title-
Planting Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1423
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1423,
"Planting Trees."
   Shade trees add much to the landscape of your home, and their
shade can cut your heating and cooling bills.  If you don't have trees
shading your home, you may wish to plant some.  The task isn't hard,
and the tree should survive if you follow seven basic steps.
   First, dig the hole before moving the tree.  It's important for you
to put the tree in the ground as quickly as possible, so wait to move
the tree until the hole for it is ready.
   If the tree is bare-rooted, dig the hole large enough to spread the
roots out naturally.  If you're planting a balled or burlapped tree,
make the hole large enough to add at least six inches of prepared soil
on all sides of the ball.
   Next, keep the roots moist while the tree is out of the ground.
Balled or container trees should be watered frequently to prevent
drying of the roots.  If you're not going to plant the tree for an
extended period, "heel in" the tree.  This means covering the roots
with loose soil or organic matter, such as wood shavings, pine bark or
compost.
   The third step is to place the tree in the hole at the same depth,
or just slightly deeper, than it grew before transplanting.  Remember
to spread the roots of bare-rooted trees to prevent crowding.  You
should place them in the same position they were growing before
transplanting.
 
Now you're ready to replace the soil around the roots.  A good   uberrustn   d  
planting mixture is essential if the tree is to establish new roots.  You
can mix topsoil, organic matter and sand to make your own planting
soil.  Firm the soil several times while filling to make sure that no air
pockets form.  You can build a mound or small levee around the tree
to help hold water and add a mulch of leaves
or straw around the tree to conserve moisture.
   Trees should be watered after planting.  For bare-rooted trees, you
should water while placing the soil around the tree.  Watering while
planting eliminates air pockets.
   The sixth step is to wrap the trunk.  Wrapping the trunk slows
evaporation of moisture from the bark, protects the bark from the hot
rays of the sun...which can cause sunscald...and prevents wood borers
from attacking the tree.
   Finally, you should stake the tree.  For larger trees, use two-by-
two-inch wooden or metal pipe stakes to hold the tree in place while
it grows.
   There are two ways you can stake the tree.  One way is to use
two stakes placed close to the trunk of the tree.  A wire is tied to
each stake and around the tree to hold it upright.  The wire around
the tree is threaded through a short section of garden hose so the
wire won't rub on the young tree.
   For trees in the open away from where people walk and grass is
mowed, place three stakes in a triangle about five to six feet from the
tree.  Support wires from the tree to the stakes give a lot of
anchorage.  Wrapping the support wires with a colorful material can
help prevent accidents caused by not being able to see the thin wires.
 
Leave the stakes in place for at least one growing season.   in wires.eirn   d  
   For more information and suggestions about caring the trees around
your home or for a free pamphlet called "Trees for Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Protecting Trees During Construction. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1424
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1424,
"Protecting Trees During Construction."
   Saving trees around a house or building that you're constructing is
a big plus for beauty and the pocketbook.
   You probably enjoy the shade and beauty trees offer, but may not
know saving trees saves money.  Shade trees cut cooling and heating
costs, and can add from five to ten percent to the real estate value
of a home.
   Unfortunately, many who try to save trees around a new home or
building are disappointed later when the trees die.  But, with careful
construction your trees can survive.
   The number one killer of trees during construction is damage.
Those clearing your lot sometimes damage the roots or trunks of trees.
Or, they may smother the roots by packing the soil with heavy
equipment or with fill dirt over the roots.  To make way for concrete
slabs and driveways, construction crews sometimes cut roots, and
installing underground utilities or grading the lot can cut roots.
   Most of the vital feeder roots of trees are in the top foot of soil
and extend even beyond the drip line of tree branches.
   If you're building, here's what to do to save the health...and maybe
the life...of your trees.
   First, you must be firm with the builders.  Even then, supervise
them closely.
   Insist on proper care during lot clearing.  Build barricades around
trees to prevent damage.  Crews may need to clear most of the lot by
hand and use heavy equipment only on the house site itself.
 
Clear lots during dry weather.  Heavy equipment damages roots   t byndeirn   d  
more during wet weather.
   Have equipment enter and leave the site from one location,
preferably the driveway site.
   Try to have underground utilities laid away from tree roots.  But,
if they have to pass close to a tree, insist that corridors be tunneled
under major roots instead of trenched.  You should ask to have all
utilities laid in one corridor, if possible.
   If you have to change the drainage pattern or grade of the lot, use
retaining walls to protect your trees.
   For driveways, walks or patios that extend over root zones, use a
pervious material such as turfstone, gravel or shell.
   To save trees, you have to begin planning even before the lot is
cleared.  If you buy a "spec" house from a builder, you may be
disappointed a year or two later to find he was not careful, and your
trees are dying.  Then, you are faced with the expense of removing
dead trees.  If you paid a higher price for the lot because of the
trees, you've also lost your investment.
   If you're thinking about buying a house already under construction,
look for symptoms of construction damage.  Look for injuries to tree
trunks, exposed or cut roots, a slab too close to trees or a patio
surrounding them.  Other clues are thinning and yellowing of leaves,
or die-back at the top or on branch ends.
   Sometimes trees can be doctored back to health after construction.
Fertilization, watering and aeration of compacted soils are all good
medicine for trees suffering from construction stress.  Other aids are
wound repair, dead limb removal and pruning to compensate for root
loss.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees
around your home or for a free pamphlet called "Trees for Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pruning Mature Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82 (Main)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1425
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1425,
"Pruning Mature Trees."
   The first rule in pruning trees should be...do no cutting without a
reason.  But, there may be several reasons for needing or wanting to
prune a tree.  Reasons such as...convenience, safety, sanitation, or
appearance.
   Remember, removing live limbs is a dwarfing process, and because
of this a heavily pruned tree will never be as large as an unpruned
tree.
   Pruning can be done anytime of the year...but generally, the best
time is during late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
The worst time to prune is right after new growth begins.
   The most common mistake made by most people doing their own
tree pruning is using improper pruning techniques.  Whether you're
cutting large or small branches, all final cuts should be made smooth
and flush with the tree.
   The bark of a branch is usually marked by a swelling, or "collar,"
where it joins the trunk or large limb.  The final cut should be made
where the swelling or the collar begins.  Be careful not to leave a
stub on the tree because this is an excellent place for decay and fungi
to get started in the tree.  You may want to apply a tree wound
dressing on the cut.
   If you're not careful, you can seriously damage your tree when
you're pruning large branches.  You can accidentally create large
wounds on the tree if you allow a large branch...which is being
removed...to strip bark as it falls from the tree.  This damage can be
prevented by making multiple cuts or by using the so-called stub-
cutting method.  Make the first cut from below at two inches from
the trunk...half way through the limb...then cut off the limb from
above.  Then, remove the stub with a cut where the swelling or collar
begins at the trunk of the tree. 
Many large, old trees are sun-scaled if they're heavily top-pruned              
or if they were part of a forest and most of their companion trees
were cut.  Their bark is killed when it suddenly is exposed to full
sunlight after growing in the shade...and this can happen to your trees
if they aren't pruned properly.
   To prevent sun-scald, prune only part of the tree top in any one
year.  If you need to thin a grove of trees, do it by cutting the
unwanted trees over a period of years rather than all at one time.
   One other pruning practice...pollarding...is sometimes used on old
trees.  Pollarding is the cutting off of the top of the tree, leaving
only the major limbs.  These limbs then are expected to produce a
new crown.
   Pollarding can be recommended only for unusual situations.  It
works well on only a few trees...such as silver maple, poplars and
willows.  However, even these trees have an unpleasing appearance
until they can grow new crowns.  Protect all pollarding wounds with a
wound paint, preferably asphalt containing an antiseptic.
   For more information and suggestions about taking care of the
trees in your landscape, call the county agent in your parish office of
the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                rvice.ty agent in your parish office of         
-End-
-Title-
Repairing Tree Injuries. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1426
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1426,
"Repairing Tree Injuries."
   If a tree in your landscape is injured, your prompt action can save
it from becoming unsightly or dangerous, and may save the tree's life.
   Injuries that expose wood or kill the bark can let disease and
decay organisms enter the tree.  You should treat these wounds to
protect the tree until they heal.
   To treat it, cut away all damaged bark and removed scraps of bark
in the wound.  These scraps will usually die anyway, and don't help
the healing.
   For faster healing, shape the edge of the wound into an elongated
ellipse...as much as is possible.  If you can't make it into an elongated
ellipse, make a point at the top and bottom...even if you have to
enlarge the wound.
   Remove all splintered wood and smooth the surface of exposed
wood.  Disinfect the wound with alcohol or shellac and apply the tree
wound paint.  Large, slowly healing wounds may need additional paint
after two or three years.
   You should inspect large wounds occasionally to be sure the paint
is not cracking.  Breaks in the paint should be repainted.  If decay
has developed in the wound, it should be cut away and the wound re-
treated.
   If one of your trees is struck by lightning, you won't be able to
tell for about a year how badly it was injured.  Trees that seem to be
badly damaged may live, while others appearing to be only mildly
damaged may die.  Go ahead and remove all shattered parts and
dangerous limbs.  On pines, you might help the tree resist pine beetles
by spraying it.
   Split trunks, crotches, limbs or branches can sometimes be mended
by  putting the damaged part back it position and holding it there
permanently.
 
To repair split trunks and crotches, smooth the damaged parts,   eedlesed       
then disinfect the wound with denatured alcohol or shellac.  Using
bolts inserted in holes drilled straight through the separated parts,
bring them together.
   Cover the crack with antiseptic paint.  Split crotches usually
require cables to support the weight of the branches.  For serious
damage, you should contact a tree surgeon.
   Sometime, you can save uprooted trees by promptly restoring them
to their position.  Be sure not to let the roots dry out.  You should
hold the tree in place with guy wires, and fertilize and water it.
Watch it closely for insect infestations.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees
around your house or for a free pamphlet called "Trees For Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Shade Trees for New Orleans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1427
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1427, "Shade Trees for New Orleans."
   Shade trees that are easy to grow in the New Orleans area include
the live oak, crape myrtle, bald cypress, evergreen elm, the golden
rain tree, the drummond red maple, the windmill palm, the jelly palm,
the Mediterranean fan palm and the spruce pine.
   In the New Orleans area, however, large trees may cause soil
subsidence...or sinking...because these trees absorb large amounts of
water.  This means the soil will sink around the roots of large trees
such as the live oak, bald cypress, water oak, willow oak, green ash,
weeping willow, pecan, sycamore and American elm.
   Areas in metropolitan New Orleans that are subject to soil
subsidence include:  some areas of Kenner and Metairie near Lake
Pontchartrain, portions of New Orleans East, Airline Park, some areas
of Lakeview and other areas of the city.  The Soil Conservation
Service can tell you more about which soils in these area are subject
to soil subsidence...or sinking.
   Insects and diseases are problems...even on those trees which are
recommended for planting in the New Orleans area.  Let's look at
some of the potential problems.
   The live oak is recommended because of its traditional use and its
long history in New Orleans.  But, remember that you should plant
live oaks where the canopy and root system can spread without
causing problems.  The root system can damage sidewalks, streets and
house foundations.  Also, low branching can damage cars if the trees
are planted too close to the street.  The live oak is also subject to
attack by wood rots, heart rots, oak gall insects and oak leaf blister
disease.
   The crape myrtle is another desirable tree.  Its problems include
aphids, sooty mold, powdery mildew and leafspot diseases.
Suckering...or sprouting...at the base of the tree may be a problem.
It's also messy when flowers begin to fall.  Its desirable
characteristics do outweigh the bad, however.
   The bald cypress is adaptable to the heavy soils in the New
Orleans area.  It grows rapidly for the first 10 years.  Some problems
observed with bald cypress trees are...knees may protrude throughout
the soil and you will have to cut them off.  Small insect galls may
form on the leaves...but they don't appear to damage the tree,
however.
   Few, if any, problems are associated with the evergreen elm.  It's a
beautiful tree and grows fast.
   The golden rain tree, another desirable tree, may have scale
insects, bark borers and may suffer freeze damage.  Its brittle wood is
subject to wind damage.  Growth may be stunted in poorly drained
areas.  This beautiful, fast-growing tree flowers and produces red
lantern-like fruit in the fall.  It's considered short-lived compared to
live oaks and water oaks.
   Drummond red maple is another fast-growing tree.  Color intensity
varies from tree to tree, and female trees often are not showy.  The
drummond red maple may be troubled by twig borer insects.  The tree
may become diseased through mechanical injuries such as lawn mower
damage to the trunk.  The drummond red maple may be hard to find
in local nurseries.
   The windmill palm is a good tree for the patio or poolside.  It has
few problems other than leafspot disease.  The jelly palm grows slowly
and isn't a tall tree.  It's main problem is trunk rot.  The
Mediterranean fan palm is another palm that grows slowly.  It's thorny
and could be hazardous to children.
   The spruce pine is another recommended tree for New Orleans.  It
grows slowly and may not be readily available in local nurseries.  It's
resistant to fusiform rust disease, but scale insects and sooty mold
may affect it.
   Other trees that can be planted in New Orleans are...camphor tree,
American holly, paper mulberry, water oak, willow oak, Canary Island
date palm, cabbage palm, palmetto palm, sago palm, Bradford flowering
pear, Chinese tallow and the wax myrtle.
   For more information and suggestions about selecting and caring
for the trees in your landscape or for a free pamphlet called "Trees
for Louisiana Landscapes," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Small Flowering Trees for New Orleans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1428
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1428, "Small Flowering Trees for New Orleans."
   Several small flowering trees are recommended for landscape use in
the New Orleans area.  They include the dogwood, tung oil tree,
mayhaw, sweetbay magnolia, fringe tree, silverbell, crape myrtle,
crabapple, redbud, Drummond red maple, sourwood and Parkinsonia.
   Also flowering plum, red bay, tree huckleberry, flowering peach,
Bradford flowering pear, Taiwan cherry, hawthorn, yaupon, persimmon
and golden raintree.
   These trees are well suited for the New Orleans area and should be
attractive additions to your landscape.
   If you need more information about trees or if you would like to
have a pamphlet called "Trees for Louisiana Landscapes," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Transplanting Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/20/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1430
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1430,
"Transplanting Trees."
   Many native or wild plants can be used in the home landscape.
Native trees tend to be hardy to local weather conditions and local
soils.  They may be more tolerant of local garden insects and diseases,
too.  Most are easy to grow, but the task of transplanting the desired
native tree from the woods to your lawn can be a hard one.
   The wet, cold days of winter are ideal times for transplanting
native plants.  But, if you can't provide similar growing conditions to
those in which the native plant is growing, leave the plant to nature.
   Before digging, decide which native plants will fit your landscape
needs.  For instance, don't select a dogwood for a sunny location
when the tree needs shade or overhead protection.
   Also, don't try to transplant a large specimen.  Small plants are
usually more vigorous, grow much faster, and are easier to handle.
You might want to tag the plant in the woods while it has leaves or
berries.  This way you can be sure of a positive identification.
   In the case of a large tree, prune the root system of the selected
native tree before digging.  Prune the plant's lateral roots one
growing season before you plan to transplant it.  Do so by making
spade cuts around the plant in winter.  Allow the soil to remain in
place, however.
   When transplanting, lift the plant with a ball of dirt, if possible.
Plant the native tree immediately at its normal growing depth.  Water
it well and mulch with leaves, straw or leaf mold. To compensate for
the loss of root area and to encourage new branching and foliage in
the spring, prune the upper branches and end shoots of limbs.  On
evergreen plants, strip away some of the foliage.
   Native plants which can be transplanted successfully include:
dogwood, redbud, river birch, sassafras, cherry laurel, red cedar,
American holly, yaupon, native hawthorns, French mulberry, native
oaks, elms, and maples.  These are desirable and abundant.
   For more information or suggestions about growing trees, call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Tree Cavities. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1432
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1432,
"Tree Cavities."
   Tree cavity repair is a difficult and specialized job.  For this
reason, the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service recommends that
you consult a competent tree surgeon in your area.  Look in the
telephone directory for a list of tree surgeons who work in the New
Orleans area.
 
 rleans area.ectory for a list of tree surgeons who work in the Newere.od       
-End-
-Title-
Hiring a Tree Service. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/15/82 (Main)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1433
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1433,
"Hiring a Tree Service."
   Before you hire a tree service company, decide what you want done
to your trees because the services performed by different companies
varies considerably.  On one extreme are those companies which only
remove trees and then on the other extreme are full-service companies
which do cabling and bracing, insect and disease spraying, fertilization,
pruning, tree removal, stump grinding, planting and cavity filling.
   You may find that you will want a full-service company because the
employees are generally better trained.  A full-service company can
perform more than one type of operation and if...at a later
date...additional service is needed or your trees have a different
problem, you can call on a company with which you are familiar.
   After you decide which service you need for your trees, decide on
which company you want and check it out.  Ask for references...the
hour or so you spend checking out a tree service is not likely to make
any difference in whether your trees lives or dies.
   Ask about the type and amount of liability insurance the company
carries.  Many tree trimmers have little or no liability insurance.  If
you hire a company which doesn't carry liability insurance, you will be
responsible for injuries or damages incurred to or by the tree
trimmers while they're working on your property.
   Get a written estimate from more than one tree service.  Ask what
the price includes because you can get varying prices depending on
whether the tree service company cleans up the mess, whether the
wood will be left or resold and in the case of spraying the trees, who
will provide the water.  Five-hundred gallons of water through your
water meter could be an expensive hidden cost.
   Carefully analyze all the information you can get when you're
selecting a tree service...and don't be pressured into something you
don't need.
   For more information about caring for the trees in your yard, call
the county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Fill Dirt in the Landscape. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1434
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1434,
"Fill Dirt in the Landscape."
   The Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service does not recommend
that you attempt to make major changes in your landscape without
professional help.  Too often, grade changes in the landscape will
produce undesirable and often unexpected circumstances.  The
Extension Service recommends that you consult a competent tree
surgeon or landscape architect for an on-site evaluation and plan to
suit your individual situation.  An Extension Service booklet entitled
"Trees for Louisiana Landscapes" has some information on this subject.
For a free copy, call your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service. 
                   ll your parish office of the LSU Cooperativeubject.en,       
-End-
-Title-
Trees for Shady Locations. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1435
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1435, "Trees for Shady Locations."
   Most trees need at least some sun...but there are some trees which
need less than others.  Trees which grow well in shady locations
include species of various shapes and sizes.  Before you plant trees in
your landscape, get some professional guidance or compare the
situation in your yard to a location where the tree you want to plant
is already growing.
   Trees which survive in shady locations inlcude...magnolia, white bay,
American holly, drummond red maple, sourwood, yaupon, silverbell,
redbud, cypress, wax myrtle, American beech and red bay.
   For more ideas and suggestions about trees for your landscapeor
for a free pamphlet called "Trees for Louisiana Landscapes," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Yellowing and Dropping of Leaves. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/4/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1436
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1436,
"Yellowing and Dropping of Leaves."
   Probably the most common problem of ornamental trees and shrubs
is a general decline associated with a dieback of twigs and yellowing
of leaves.  This often begins as a marginal dying on the edges of the
leaves or with a bleaching and yellowing of most of the plant.  The
injured plant often dies.
   Unlike leaf spots which are usually scattered at random, this
dieback of twigs and yellowing of leaves is caused by roots which are
not functioning properly in transporting water to the upper parts of
the plant.
   Possible causes for this problem are:
   1)  Drought stress--This often results in a gradual yellowing of the
entire plant, beginning with leaf margins.  Even large trees have
feeder roots located in the upper portion of the soil and, without
adequate moisture, these feeder roots dry out.
   2)  Overwatering--Too much water suffocates the root system and
helps disease-producing organisms establish themselves in the plant.
   3)  Transplant injury--Newly planted ornamental trees and shrubs
can be affected by "transplant shock" if roots are damaged before
transplanting or if they are subjected to poor soil preparation and
poor care at planting time.  Soil should be worked up and mulched for
several feet around the planting site.
   4)  Adaption problem--Different plants have different requirements
for sunlight and moisture.  Selecting a site that is suitable for the
plant can avoid many problems.  Be sure to select plants adapted to
Louisiana conditions. 
5)  Iron chlorosis--This abnormally yellow color of plant tissues               
can be observed in parts of the state where soils have a high pH.
It's also observed on plants growing near cement walks, driveways and
other kinds of construction.  Often the soil pH in these areas has
been raised by chemicals used in construction.
   6)  Fungus root rots and nematodes--These are commen pathogens
on many ornamental trees and shrubs.  The lower stem and roots of
severely infected plants are rotted and discolored.  If the bark is
peeled from the plant, you can see dark streaks or fungal strands.
Once above-ground symptoms are observed, little can be done to save
a plant attacked by root-rot organisms.  The best control for these
rots is to prevent them by maintaining good drainage, fertility and a
proper environment for the plant.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees in
your yard, call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed: 2/8/82 Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1437
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1437,
"Buying Trees."
   Generally, nurseries will have shrubs and trees for sale in three
categories...balled and burlapped...in containers...or bare rooted.
   First, the balled and burlapped type.  A ball of soil is wrapped
in burlap and pinned with nails.  When you're handling this kind of
plant...never lift it by its stem or trunk and don't remove the
burlap when you plant the tree. Rough handling can loosen the ball
of soil and endanger the life of the plant.
   Balled plants are usually larger than container grown plants of
the same price.  Also, they are usually field grown, and may be
better adjusted to conditions in your lawn.
   Second...container-grown plants...they're also popular with
nurseries.  The most common sizes of containers are one gallon, two
gallon and five gallon.
   One of the real advantages of container-grown plants is that
there is  less shock when the plant is transplanted.  The container
should be cut with special shears by the nurseryman so the plant can
be lifted out of the container easily without disturbing the soil.
   Third...bare rooted plants.  These type plants are commonly
offered by nurseries, but these plants are a little more risky than
the two mentioned previously...especially during the spring.
   If you would like to have more information about buying trees,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                               ce.omist in your parish office of then           
-End-
-Title-
Golden Raintree. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1438
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1438,
"Golden Raintree."
   There are two species of golden raintree for Louisiana...and if
you pick the wrong one you could be in for some real disappointment.
   For the part of the state from Baton Rouge south...you should
choose the Southern Golden Rain.  If you plant this tree much
further north than Baton Rouge it's likely to be injured or killed
by winter freezes.  The Southern Golden Rain blooms in late August
and September with a lot of striking yellow flowers followed by
salmon-pink seed pods which last the rest of the fall.
   There is a northern species of the golden rain tree but it should
be planted north of Baton Rouge.  The northern variety blooms in
June with yellow flowers followed by green seed pods in July.  If
this tree is planted south of Baton Rouge...probably it won't get
enough cold weather to perform as it should.
   There's another big difference in the northern and the southern
species...and that is the makeup of the compound leaves.  The
northern species has rougher textured leaves and larger individual
leaflets.
   One problem you may run into with the southern variety is that it
usually doesn't bloom for the first three to five years.  The
flowers won't usually appear on the tree until it's somewhat mature
and isn't growing very actively.  You may be surprised at how
rapidly the golden raintree grows...it's not uncommon for a young to
tree grow five to ten feet per year the first two or three years.
   If you would like more information about the golden raintree or
if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Trees for
Louisiana Landscapes," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Why Trees Die in New Subdivisions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/15/82
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1439
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1439,
"Why Trees Die in New Subdivisions."
   Many homeowners who move into a new subdivision and live there
for six months or a year are distressed to find that some of the
established trees on their lot die for no apparent reason.
   But...there are reasons for these trees dying.  One of the most
common reasons is the change in the soil grade around the tree.
Three or more inches of soil added over tree root systems often cuts
off oxygen to the roots which eventually kills the roots and this
eventually kills the tree.
   Also, grading two or three inches or more under the spread of a
tree often disturbs the feeder roots and causes them die.
   If the subdivision was developed in an area where the trees were
growing in thick groves and many of the trees had to be removed to
make room for the houses, the trees which are left are exposed to
more light and wind than they can handle and may die in two or three
years.
   Generally, heavy construction equipment is used in preparing home
sites and in the actual building of the house.  Because this
equipment is so heavy, it tends to pack the soil which may kill tree
roots.
   In addition to all this...when new subdivisions are developed,
there's a change in the water table because of the addition of such
things as streets, storm sewers, and deep ditches which remove water
from the lots...water that ordinarily would have soaked into the
soil for use by the trees.
   If you would like to have more information about why trees die in
new subdivisions, call the county agent or home economist in your
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Fertilizing Shade Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/17/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1440
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1440,
"Fertilizing Shade Trees."
   Shade trees exist in nature without much care, but transplanting
them to man-made conditions can cause them some problems.  It's
especially helpful to fertilize shade trees during the second growing
season and thereafter.  Don't fertilize trees during the first year after
planting or the top growth may become more than the roots can feed
which could cause the tree to die.  Fertilizer may also benefit
established trees that appear less than healthy.
   Fertilizer for trees should have nitrogen, phosphorous and potash.
Examples of some fertilizers to look for are 8-8-8, 13-13-13 and 12-4-
4.  Common garden fertilizers such as 8-8-8 are satisfactory.  Be
careful of weed and feed type fertilizers since they contain herbicides
which could harm trees or these fertilizers could even kill trees if
they're used long enough.
   Fertilize established trees only as needed.  Early spring is the best
time.  If additional nutrients are needed, make a second application in
early summer.  Don't fertilize trees in late summer because it may
cause them to continue to actively grow into the winter months...and
be damaged by cold weather.
   Use one-to-two pounds of fertilizer for each inch of tree diameter.
Trees less than six inches in diameter need about two pounds of
fertilizer each year.  To determine the diameter, measure the distance
through the tree...not the distance around the tree...and measure at
chest level.
 
Surface application is one of the easiest ways to apply fertilizer.   ntr       
It can be used on established trees where the soil beneath the tree is
free of vegetation such as grass or ground cover.  Apply fertilizer
evenly under the tree branches.  Don't put fertilizer within one foot
of the trunk; it can injure the root collar.
   If the soil is compacted, or if grass is growing under trees, punch
holes six-to-eight inches deep in the soil and put the fertilizer in the
holes.  Don't put more than a handful of fertilizer in each hole.
   For more information and suggestions about taking care of your
trees or if you would like a free pamphlet called "Fertilizing Shade
Trees," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Tree Stumps. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/15/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1441
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1441,
"Removing Tree Stumps."
   You can remove stumps from your yard manually, mechanically, or
by helping the natural processes of decay.
   A stump that's eight inches or smaller in diameter can be dug or
pulled out manually with an axe, grub hoe, shovel and perspiration.
   Larger stumps can be easily removed by mechanical devices that
have rotary blades which cut and chew the stump to the level below
the ground that you want it.  You may be able to get these
mechanical stump removers from rental outlets.  Most tree service
operators have them for custom work.
   A very practical, but slower way of removing stumps is to speed up
the natural process of decay.  Drilling holes in stumps and filling them
with a high-nitrogen fertilizer, such as urea, can create a good place
for rot fungi to grow.  Also, fertilizer may be sprinkled on the top of
the stump.  The stump must be kept moist for the fertilizer to work.
Use mulch and water if you need to.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees in
your yard, or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Stump
Removal from Home Grounds," call the county agent in your parish
office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Estimating the Value of Trees and Shrubs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/15/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1442
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1442,
"Estimating the Value of Trees and Shrubs."
   Storms, lightning, vandalism, automobile accidents and other
incidents can sometimes make it necessary for you to place a value on
your trees and shrubs for insurance, tax or legal purposes.
   If you're trying to recover damages to your trees and shrubs by
means of a lawsuit, you will need to get an evaluation from an expert.
Acceptable experts for court purposes are consulting arborists,
consulting foresters, representatives of tree service companies and
sometimes county agents.  All of these experts will use a nationally
accepted guide to determine the value of damaged or destroyed trees
or shrubs.
   If you're trying to recover damages by means of an insurance
claim, you will need to check first with your insurance agent to
determine if such damage is covered by your policy.  If the damages
are covered, the loss or reduction in the fair market value of your
property must be determined by a real estate appraiser.  Most
insurance policies have a maximum that they allow for tree loss.
   If you're trying to recover damages by means of a state or federal
tax deduction, you will have to use the amount of fair market value
not covered by the insurance.  Federal tax regulations allow
deductions for uncompensated losses only in excess of $100.
   Whether you can obtain insurance compensation or a tax deduction
for the casualty loss of a tree or shrub may depend on how well you
can document the before and after value of the plant.
   Old and new photographs, plus a written statement from an
appraiser, will, in most casses, be sufficient evidence to document
reasonable claims. 
For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees                 
and shrubs in your yard, call the county agent in your parish office of
the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
_30
-End-
-Title-
Operating a Chain Saw Safely. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/15/82
Area:  State
                           Tele-Tip 1443
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1443,
"Operating a Chain Saw Safely."
   Over 30,000 chain saw accidents are reported every year in the
United States...but many of these can be prevented with just a little
common sense.  For example, when you're operating a chain saw, dress
appropriately.  Don't wear a neck tie or leave a handkerchief or your
shirt tail hanging out.  Any of these things could get sucked into the
air intake of the saw or get caught in the chain.
   Wear shoes with non-slip soles.  More than one-fifth of the
reported accidents were the result of insecure footing.  Plant both
feet firmly on the ground and always wear a safety hard hat.  Limbs
falling from above or saw kickbacks make a hard hat essential.
   Kickbacks can occur when the tip of the blade strikes a small limb,
the ground or other objects.  Be alert to conditions that can cause
kickbacks and avoid them.  Hold your saw firmly in both hands to
help overcome the effects of kickback if it does happen.  Give your
undivided attention to the cut you're making.  Don't take children or
pets to the woods with you.
   Chain tension is another important safety consideration.  If the
chain is too loose, it will wear out more quickly...if the chain is too
tight, it will move when the engine is idling.  A saw with either of
these conditions is dangerous...your owners manual should describe the
correct tension.
   A sharp saw not only cuts easier and faster, but it's safer to use.
A dull saw jumps in the cut and produces fine sawdust rather than
chips.  You should learn to recognize this condition. Your operators
manual will list many tips and safety rules.  Study and practice them.
Your power saw can be highly productive and satisfactory to use.
Use it properly.
   For more information and suggestions about the proper use of chain
saws and other lawn maintenance equipment, call the county agent in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Removing Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1444
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1444,
"Removing Trees."
   The Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service does not recommend
that homeowners try to remove trees from city lots.  It's best to get
a competent and bonded tree surgeon for this job.  The telephone
directory lists tree surgeons who remove trees in the New Orleans
area. 
      ory lists tree surgeons who remove trees in the New Orleans get.o         
-End-
-Title-
Anticipating Shade Needs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/17/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1500
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1500,
"Anticipating Shade Needs."
   Trees are among our most permanent plants.  Some can live and
enhance a landscape for 100 years or longer.  So, it's important that
you select shade trees very carefully.  You'll be planting them not
only for yourself, but for future generations.
   Winter is the best time to plant trees.  But, winter is not the best
time to decide where to plant the trees...summer is better for deciding
where to plant because of the greater need for shade then.
   Winter is the best time to plant trees because the dormant
condition of plants, the cooler temperatures and the high moisture
content of the soil all help a newly-planted tree get off to a good
start.  Nurseries also have a good selection of new plants in
winter...so, you can choose from a wide and varied selection.
   As for deciding where to plant trees.  Watch the sun on your
house during the summer and notice the path that it travels.  The
direction of the sun's travel and the angles at which sunlight hits
your house and the things around it during the summer are quite
different from the way it travels and hits your house during the
winter...so be careful when your making your decision for shade.
   When the sun is low, you could have smaller trees, but when it is
high, you need larger trees.  Decide if you want evergreen trees or
deciduous trees...which lose their leaves in the winter.  Deciduous
trees are good for summer shade and they allow the sun to penetrate
in winter when their leaves fall.
 
Many people want "instant" shade.  This just isn't possible.   ratesing         
The trees that grow the fastest are often the most short-lived.  The
best and most enduring species usually grow a little more slowly.
Their lifespans are sometimes two to four times that of man.
   It's hard to measure in dollars the value of a mature oak, maple or
other tree sheltering your home from the summer sun, but it's
definitely an asset.  On the other hand, a weak, short-lived tree can
be a source of constant worry and frustration.
   For more information and suggestions about trees or for a free
pamphlet entitled "Trees for Louisiana Landscapes," call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Landscape Views From Inside. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1504
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1504,
"Landscape Views From Inside."
   Neither the summer nor the winter are particularly good times to
get outside for any length of time...especially when you're doing
gardening chores. Because most people prefer the comforts of air
conditioning or heating, depending on the season, outside activities
are usually limited to only those which are necessary.
   And because some much time is spent inside the house, the views
of your landscape from the inside of your home or business is
important.
   You don't have to be physically in a garden to enjoy it.  Some of
the most famous gardens of the world are only seen from within a
building.  People are not allowed to move into a these garden at
all.  You can take the same idea and apply it to your needs.
   You should plan your garden so that the living area looks as
though it moves outdoors.  It will be a better view than looking at
a heavily draped window or wall, and it will make the room appear
much larger.
   On the other hand, a planting that's carefully placed 75 to 100
feet away on the rear property line doesn't do much for the inside
and really doesn't "pay its way."  From long distances, many plants
look alike, especially evergreens.
   A variety of trees and shrubs have seasonal color changes, and
can add a new and distinctive look to your homesite.  You can open
the draperies in your living and sleeping areas and reveal the
beauty of the natural world.
   In the late summer, a checklist of ways to improve the interior-
exterior relationship of your house and garden and make the view
from within a memorable part of family living.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Low Maintenance Landscapes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1506
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1506,
"Low Maintenance Landscapes."
   Probably, one of your highest priorities in landscape planning is
low maintenance...but you should know that attempts to reduce
maintenance should begin with planning...not later after the plants are
in the ground.
   During the spring, it's easy to over-plant because you tend not to
think about having to care for all those plants during the hot summer
months.
   The basic question that should be answered at the outset is...how
much maintenance do you want to do and how much can you do.
Certainly, you don't have to keep your landscape in the tradition of
formal gardens when a more natural and casual appearance is
acceptable and sometimes preferred.
   When you're preparing your landscape...don't take shortcuts when
you're preparing the bed.  Good soil preparation will help the plant to
grow and generally the plant will take care of itself in a fairly short
time.
   Mulch your plantings to reduce weed competition and to let you get
rid of the weeds and grasses easier.
   Eliminate small patches of grass in places where it's hard to mow.
You might consider a ground cover for these areas.
   Carefully consider the amount and location of planting beds which
will need extra care.
   Keep the planting design simple.  Accept the fact that elaborate
plantings require a great deal of attention.
   Remember, the coolness of spring will give way to the heat of
summer.  Don't become over-enthusiastic when you're planning and
planting your landscape. 
If you would like to have more information about low maintenance                
landscapes, call the county agent or home economist in your parish
office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service. 
                                                 st in your parish              
-End-
-Title-
Planters in the Landscape. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1509
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1509,
"Planters in the Landscape."
   Planters have many uses in the landscape...such as defining traffic
patterns, providing accent and relieving monotony.
   The overall design of a planter should be in harmony with its
surroundings.  By using the same material in the planter that's used in
the house helps unify the landscape and the building.
   Sometimes plants don't perform well in planters and one of the
most common reasons is poor drainage.  To get good drainage in your
planter, use a planting mix of at least 50 percent organic matter, and
a generous amount of sand.
   You will need to water plants growing in planters more often than
plants growing in the ground...this is particularly true during the
summer.
   When you're selecting your plants for the planter, choose those
which grow under more arid conditions and be sure not to mix plants
with different growing requirements.  For example, you wouldn't want
to put plants that need a lot of sun in the same planter as plants that
need a lot of shade.
   Spring is a good time for planting annuals for spring and summer
color. Most nurseries have a good assortment of plants during the
spring.
   If you would like to have more information about using planters in
your landscape, call the county agent or home economist in your
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Wood in the Landscape. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/17/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1511
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1511,
"Wood in the Landscape."
   When you're choosing wood for your landscape structures such as
fences and decks, you have three main choices.  Pressure-treated
Southern timber is usually the most reliable and economical choice.
Fences and decks built with pressure-treated wood should last at least
25 years.  Buy pressure-treated wood from a reputable supplier and
ask if the wood is intended for use above ground or in the ground.
In-ground treated wood should be used when the wood touches the
ground.  It will last much longer than above-ground wood for outside
uses.
   You can also select heartwood of natural decay and insect
resistant-woods such as black locust, redwood, white oak, cedar and
cypress.  Naturally resistant heartwood has a more variable lifespan
than pressure-treated wood.  Of the naturally resistant woods, black
locust and osage orange are excellent for fencing.  Black locust posts
with three or more inches of yellow-brown heartwood and eight or
more rings per inch will last at least 15 years in the ground.  Osage
orange heartwood will last about that long, too.
   Cedar, cypress, redwood and white oak heartwood posts will last
from five to 15 years in the ground.  Sap pine, hickory, red oak,
spruce, sweetgum and yellow poplar heartwood posts will last from two
to ten years.  But, locating heartwood is the biggest problem.  There's
just not much "true" heartwood available today.
 
The heartwood of the naturally resistant woods such as cedar,   There's         
cypress and redwood can be used above ground in decks or fences as
well as for fence posts.  The lighter-colored sapwood of all naturally
resistant species decay in one to five years in the ground.  You should
trim off sapwood posts before you set them.
   If you have plenty of Southern pine, you can treat it yourself if
you intend to use it above ground.  The best treatment is to soak the
lumber or posts for at least several weeks in a pentachlorophenol
solution.  Brushing or spraying pine with preservative solutions won't
give enough protection if it is to be used in the ground.  This wood
needs to be soaked or pressure treated.
   Don't use untreated sap pine, fir or spruce for fences or decks.
However, if you've already built structures with untreated wood, you
can brush or spray all the surfaces with a water-repellent
preservative.  You should do this at least twice and then reapply the
preservative every year or two.  This will prolong the life of the
structures.
   For more information and suggestions about using wood in your
landscape, call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Wood Fences. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82 (Mills)
Area:  State


                           Tele-Tip 1512
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1512,
"Wood Fences."
   Because of our sub-tropical climate, your choice of building
materials for a fence is just about the most important decision of
the whole project.
   If you use the wrong materials and a poor design...the fence is
destined to a short life...this is especially true when it comes to
fence posts.  Because fence posts come in contact with the soil,
they should be pressure-treated to protect them from decay and
insects.
   Horizontal parts of the fence, which connect the posts, should be
made of either naturally decay-resistant wood such as cypress,
cedar, or redwood...or it should be pressure-treated with a
preservative for above-ground use.
   The vertical boards should also be either naturally decay
resistant or pressure-treated.  Don't allow the vertical board to
come in contact with the soil.
   The boards should be fastened with hot-dipped galvanized nails so
rust from the nails won't discolor the wood.  Also, if at all
possible, don't join the fence to the house...this could be a way
for termites to enter your house.
   If you paint your fence, it can become a continual chore keeping
it painted.  Instead, consider a penetrating stain which contains a
preservative and water repellent.
   If you would like to have more information about lawn fences,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                               ce.omist in your parish office of theetd         
-End-
-Title-
Arbors. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1513
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1513,
"Arbors."
   An arbor is an excellent way to make an outdoor room for both
people and plants.  It is inexpensive to build and you can get garden
manuals on outdoor structures that give complete instructions which
make it an easy project.
   An arbor serves many purposes.  It can add to the living space of
a family room, dining room, or can offer an opportunity to use plants
in many different ways, such as hanging vines and potted plants.
   Not only do arbors offer shelter for people and plants, but it
serves a practical purpose as well.  Large areas of glass that are
exposed to the afternoon sun can be shaded with the addition of an
arbor.  Vines covering the structure give shading in the summer, and
if you choose a vine which loses its leaves in the late fall, the
exposure to the winter sun will help heat your houses.
   An arbor gives an otherwise dull outdoor space more appeal, and at
the same time adds to the living space of your house.  The practical
and visual advantages of an arbor make it a worthwhile project.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Vines," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Growing Apples and Pears. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1600
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1600, "Growing Apples and Pears."
   Apples produce best in Louisiana when they're grown in the
central, northern part of the state...but there are varieties which will
produce in the southern part of the state.  You shouldn't expect
apples grown in south Louisiana to be as good as those grown in the
northern parts of the United States.  The growing conditions just
aren't as good here in Louisiana.
   Good varieties for south Louisiana are:  Anna, Molly's Delicious,
Dorsett Einshemer, Granny Smith, Beverly Hills and Tropical Beauty.
Apple varieties for north Louisiana are:  Yellow Delicious, Golden
Delicious, and Starkrimson Delicious.
   Pollination is a problem with some varieties of apples.  At least
two varieties should be planted in the same general area to ensure
cross pollination.  But, just planting two varieties close together isn't
enough...you must be sure that they are the right varieties, that is,
that they will pollinate each other.  You can get this information from
your county agent.
   One other comment about apples...they must be planted in soils
with excellent drainage.  You should never plant apples in heavy, clay
gumbo-type soils.  If you plant apples in poorly drained soils, they will
not live as long as they otherwise might.
   Now, let's talk about pears...the pear is one of the most commonly
grown fruits in Louisiana.  It produces well in all parts of the state if
the proper varieties are grown.  The pear grows well on a rather wide
range of soil types but performs best on relatively light, rich soils.
It's reasonably tolerant of high water tables and will withstand either
drought or excessive moisture for long periods of time.
 
The best varieties for Louisiana are Orient, Baldwin, Moonglow,   itherif       
LeConte, Kieffer and Biscamp.  Of these, Orient and Biscamp are the
most resistant to fire blight.  Fire blight kills many pear trees in the
state every year.
   LeConte matures in late July and early August.  The other varieties
mature later, however, none of them will mature completely on the
tree.  Pears should be picked when they're at a relatively green stage
and then allowed to ripen in a room where the temperature is held at
60 to 62 degrees.  This ripening will take about two-to-three weeks.
After ripening, the pears will be mellow and of good eating quality.
This is particularly true for the Orient variety.
   Pears don't normally need a lot of commercial fertilizer.  Where
the soil is extremely poor, it may be necessary to add fertilizer to get
rapid growth in early spring.  While nitrogen seems to be the element
most needed by pear trees, it's advisable to use a complete fertilizer
such as 8-8-8 at no more than one-half pound per year of age of the
tree.
   Pear trees really shouldn't grow excessively.  The ideal situation is
for the the tree to grow rapidly in the spring and then more slowly
during the summer.  This produces harder wood in the tree and usually
much less injury from fire blight.
   There are a couple of fungus diseases you should watch for and
control.  They are early leaf spot and late leaf spot.  Early leaf spot
is very destructive and starts as soon as the tree produces leaves.  If
early leaf spot is not controlled, the tree will be defoliated by early
summer.
   Late leaf spot usually starts in late June.  It, too, will defoliate
the tree.  There are excellent fungicides available for controlling both
of these diseases.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut
trees, or for a free pamphlet called "The Louisiana Home Orchard,"
call the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pruning Apple Trees and Pear Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1601
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1601, "Pruning Apple Trees and Pear Trees."
   The most popular method of pruning apple and pear trees is the
"central leader form."  Its main characteristic is the central trunk
with scaffold branches growing from it.  One of the best examples of
the central type form is the pine tree.
   The trunk should be noticeably larger than the branches, and the
branches should be well separated up the trunk.  The lowest branch
should be two to three feet from the ground...but this is a matter of
personal taste.  A fruit variety with wide-spreading branches should
have the first branch starting higher than a variety with upright
branches.
   Young, two-year-old trees which come from nurseries will have
several branches...each one no more than three inches apart.  They
may also have one, two or more leaders.  If there are two or three
leaders, they form narrow crotches where they join.  Such crotches
are weak and tend to break in a storm or during a season with a
heavy crop.
   After you select the leader, choose the first or the lowest branch
for your tree. It's important that all scaffold branches have wide
angles where they join the trunk.
   The first year of training usually produces a tree with one branch...
sometimes two...and a central leader.  Cut back very long leaders to
about twenty inches.  New lateral branches will grow from the leader
next year.  From these you can choose another scaffold branch or
two.  As the tree grows older and taller, cut the top off at about ten
feet.  Make this cut at the junction at a lateral branch.  This, then,
becomes what is known as a modified leader.
 
On older apple and pear trees, annual pruning is also necessary,   en,..f       
but the principles involved are a little different.  In pruning young
trees, as previously described, a great deal of attention is given to the
spacing of branches and the mechanical strength as well as the
formation of the framework.
   With the older bearing tree, growth and different parts must be
kept balanced by new growth evenly distributed throughout the tree.
At the same time the spreading habit must be maintained rather than
allowing the tree to become too tall and leggy.
   The purpose of pruning matured trees is to remove sprouts and
dead, diseased, injured, broken or interfering branches and to thin out
the tops of the tree so sunlight can penetrate.
   Mature trees may be pruned at any time during their dormancy but
the preferred time is in early spring before growth begins.  Water
sprouts are suckers arising from the lower trunk and roots. Water
sprouts and diseased or broken branches may be removed at any time,
but all heavy pruning should be complete before the bud break in the
spring.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut
trees, or for a free pamphlet called "The Louisiana Home Orchard,"
call the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Blackberries. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1602
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1602, "Blackberries."
   There are basically two kinds of blackberries that you can grow in
your fruit orchard...and the differences are more with the vines than
with the fruit.
   One kind of blackberry is the erect type which has arched, self-
supporting canes.  The other kind of blackberry...the trailing type...
has canes which are not self-supporting and must be tied on a trellis.
Generally, the trailing-type blackberries ripen earlier than the erect
type and the fruit clusters of the trailing-type are smaller and more
open.
   The recommended varieties of the erect type blackberries are
Brazos, Comanche, Cheyenne, Cherokee, Womack, Brison and
Rosburogh.  The recommended varieties of trailing type blackberries
are Boysenberry, and Youngberry.
   There are several varieties of thornless blackberries, but they're
usually of the trailing type and are commonly less productive than the
thorny varieties.
   Blackberries can be planted by using either root cuttings or
transplants.  Root cuttings are more economical...but, transplants
produce berries about a year earlier than root cuttings.
   You should plant blackberries on four-foot squares or in a hedge
fashion on rows spaced six feet apart.  A well prepared plant bed is
essential for blackberries.  Deep cultivation and turning under one or
two cover crops prior to planting improves the physical condition of
the soil.
 
Root cuttings should be planted horizontally four-to-six inches   oforthe       
deep.  The deeper plantings should be in sandy soils while the more
shallow plantings should be in heavier soils.  When you use plants, cut
the canes back to six inches from the ground.  This six inch top will
make handling easier. Don't expect any blackberries from root cuttings
until the year after they're planted.
   Blackberries must be pruned every year...normally in June
immediately after they have produced berries.  Pruning is simply a
matter of removing the old canes that bore the fruit and leaving new
growth which had no berries.  The old growth will serve no
purpose...and it may create insect and disease problems.  Some people
find it easier to mow down all the vines to within several inches of
the ground after the berries have been picked...and then let new
growth come back from the roots for next year.  If you use this
technique, you will not pick as many berries the following year as you
will if you prune out only the old vines.
   For more information and suggestions about growing blackberries or
for a free pamphlet called "Growing Blackberries for Pleasure and
Profit," call the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Growing Blueberries. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1603
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1603, "Growing Blueberries."
   Blueberries are becoming a popular home garden fruit in Louisiana.
When you buy plants, be sure you get the Rabbiteye blueberry.  It's
specifically adapted to southern conditions.  Although there are several
varieties which grow in Louisiana, the best ones are Tifblue, Woodard,
Climax, Gardenblue, Southland and Delight.
   The most important soil requirement for Rabbiteye blueberries is
soil pH.  Rabbiteye blueberries perform best when they're grown in a
sandy loam soil with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5.  Without proper acidity, they
will grow poorly.  Don't plant blueberries in soil containing large
amounts of wood ash.  Burned wood leaves behind minerals and salts
that raise the pH above acceptable levels for good blueberry growth.
   Other soil factors can limit blueberry growth, too.  Don't plant in
areas of deep sands or in soils with low fertility and low water-
holding capacity.  Adequate drainage is a must.  Blueberry plants will
not tolerate excessive moisture and this can be a probelm in soils with
poor internal drainage.
   Before planting blueberries, test the soil to determine its pH and
the amounts of minerals and organic matter present.  If you need to
lower soil pH, use finely ground sulfur.  Because sulfur reacts slowly
and must be converted to a sulfate by soil bacteria, the change in soil
pH is slow.  You'll need to add sulfur to the soil and mix it
thoroughly several months before you plant. 
The amount of sulfur to use for lowering soil pH will vary.  But,               
generally speaking, to lower the pH from 6.5 to 5.5, use about a pound
and one-half of sulfur for 100 square feet of soil.  Double the amount
to 3 pounds to lower the pH from 7.5 to 5.5  Half the amount to 3/4
of a pound to lower the pH from 6.0 to 5.5.
   Aluminum sulfate may also be used to lower soil pH.  Aluminum
sulfate is water soluble and can be applied on soil and watered in.  It
will reduce the soil pH and increase the availability of iron.  Apply
aluminum sulfate at the rate of three ounces for each square yard of
soil.  On soils of high pH, treat again in two or three months.
   For small plantings of blueberries, the soil structure is improved
most easily by adding organic matter such as sawdust, peat or
leafmold.  Heavy soils require more organic matter and are harder to
maintain.
   Peat moss should be added around the roots of each plant when the
plants are set.  You should use at least one gallon of wet peat moss
for each plant.
   Ideally, soils for blueberries should contain a lot of organic matter.
If the soil has less than one percent organic matter, plant a cover
crop at least one year before planting blueberries.  Suggested cover
crops are:  Southern peas, ryegrass or a suitable green manure crop.
Plow this material under before you plant blueberries.
   In low, poorly-drained areas, set plants on ridges.  Arrange rows to
provide adequate drainage.  This preparation should be done a year
before you want to plant blueberries.  The most satisfactory spacing
for the berry plants will be determined by the equipment used in
cultivation.  Ideally, plants should be six feet apart in rows 12 feet
apart.  Don't place rows closer than 12 feet and don't plant
blueberries closer than five feet.               For more
information and suggestions about growing fruits and berries or for a
free pamphlet called "Growing Rabbiteye Blueberries in Louisiana," call
the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Treating Freeze-Damaged Citrus Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/24/82 (Puls)
Area:  South Louisiana

                           TeleTip 1604
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1604,
"Treating Freeze-Damaged Citrus Trees."
   Several factors determine how badly a citrus tree is damaged by
freezing weather...factors like the duration of the freeze, the variety
of the tree, the tree's age and how much protection it received.
   Even though you protect your citrus trees, they still may be
damaged and the damage may not become apparent immediately.
Dieback of a freeze-damaged tree may continue during an entire
season in cases where the injury was very severe.
   Generally, you shouldn't do any pruning until summer...after the
freeze.  Waiting gives the tree plenty of time to produce new growth
and gives you time to see just how badly the tree was injured.
   There are four types of freeze damage...light, medium, severe, and
very severe.
   The damage is considered light when only the foliage and small
twigs are injured.  Trees with light damage require little treatment
and no special pruning for the coming season.  The foliage should be
kept on the tree to nourish the root system and support the next crop
of fruit.
   The freeze damage is considered to be medium when a considerable
amount of the tops of the trees is killed...but the trunk and crown
limbs show little damage.  Again, don't prune anything until you can
tell how badly the tree was damaged...and this may take several
months.
   Whenever you have determined the extent of the damage and you
decide to do some pruning...save as much of the tree's framework as
possible.  Old limbs should be cut below all serious bark injuries.
These limbs should be cut back to strong new sprouts. 
New framework growth can be controlled by light pruning during                  
the summer.  Injured branches should be cut to new leaders, then
pruned of excessive sprouts and gradually thinned over several years.
   Freeze damage is considered severe when the top and crown limbs
have been killed...but with little injury to the trunk.  Usually, you'll
be able to see all damage by the middle of the summer and the whole
top of the tree should be removed.  Again, you should cut below all
large areas of injured bark.  By this time several sprouts will have
grown to help form the new head of the tree.
   Very severe freeze damage is characterized by a dead tree top and
damage that extends well down the trunk.  Strong sprouts will appear
above the bud union and a new trunk and head will have to be
developed.  The top of the tree should be removed but you should
leave the old trunk to support the special sprout.  You should favor
the sprout and force it to grow by pinching back all the other
sprouts.
   When the new tree head is the size of a good two-year orchard
tree, you should remove the old trunk by cutting it above the base of
the new trunk.  The cut should be made at a downward angle.  The
cut should be dried and covered with a tree dressing or wax.  Larger
trees will recover more quickly because they will use several shoots
for the new head if you don't object to trees with multiple heads.
   When several shoots are used, you should remove the old trunk as
soon as you can determine the new shoots aren't damaged.  Remember
to treat all cuts.
   Now, just a couple of other comments on freeze-damaged citrus
trees.  The bark on young trees may be injured causing it to crack
and curl.  Trees of various ages may show patches of dead bark on
large limbs or trunks where there is no splitting. 
After two or three months, you should cut out all visibly damaged               
bark.  The exposed wood should be disinfected with a 10 percent
solution of commercial bleach and then painted with a commercial
wound paint.  You shouldn't cover injured bark with materials to keep
it from drying...this could cause more injury by helping rot develop.
   Citrus trees usually look wilted right after a freeze.  The reason
for this is the roots can't get water from the soil at low
temperatures.  However, most of the leaves on the trees are killed in
a freeze so the tree doesn't need as much water as it normally would.
   Irrigation should be less frequent and in smaller amounts in these
situations.  In fact, the reduced need for water may continue during
the entire
season following a freeze.  This depends on the extent of the injury and the
recover time the tree needs.  Water should be applied only if the soil appears
to need it.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit trees, call the
county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

 
 ounty agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.rs  
-End-
-Title-
Citrus, Controlling Black Leaves. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1605
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1605, "Citrus, Controlling Black Leaves."
   Sooty mold is the substance you see on citrus trees which makes
them turn black, and while it doesn't really harm the trees, it is an
eyesore and blackens the fruit as well as the leaves.  But, you can
prevent sooty mold by controlling the sucking insects which attack
citrus trees.
   Many insects attack citrus trees...but, the white fly is the most
common pest.  In the nymph, or immature stage, which is seldom
recognized by the grower, the white fly infests the underside of leaves
and sucks sap out of them.  This injures the trees and reduces the
quality of the fruit.  Growers also object to the sooty mold fungus
which grows on the honeydew -- a sticky, syruplike material -- given
off by the immature stages of the white fly.
   You can control white flies, but be careful not to spray too early.
Don't spray when you see a lot of adult flies.  Wait 10 to 20 days
after most of them have stopped flying.  This will give the eggs time
to hatch and allow the young to be killed before they cause much
damage.  White flies are usually worse from mid-June to early August.
You can control white flies with chemicals.  When you spray, make
two applications ten days apart.  Direct the spray toward the
underside of leaves.
   Other insects besides white flies can cause the sooty mold to form
on citrus.  These include aphids, scale and mealy bugs.  They also
deposit honeydew on which the sooty mold fungus grows. 
If your trees already have a build-up of sooty mold you can remove              
it with a spray of detergent and water or an oil spray.  If you use an
oil spray, do so cautiously.  When applying oil sprays in summer, use a
summer oil and not a dormant oil.  The dormant oils are much heavier
and can severely injure trees if they're applied in hot weather.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit trees or
for a free pamphlet called "Citrus Insects," call the county agent in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                ana Cooperative Extension Service. in a         

-End-
-Title-
Citrus Fertilization. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1606
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1606, "Citrus Fertilization."
   Your citrus trees should be fertilized annually for them to maintain
good production.  Normally, you fertilize citrus trees in late January
and early February.  You should apply about one-and-a-half pounds of
6-12-6 or 8-8-8 or equivalent fertilizer for each year of the tree's age
up to 12 years or a maximum of 12 pounds of fertilizer.
   For young citrus trees, you should apply an additional two pounds
of ammonium nitrate or one-and-a-half pounds of ammonium sulfate in
late May or June for each year of the tree's age.  You should increase
the amount of nitrogen up to 12-to-15 pounds as the trees grow older.
   Apply the fertilizer by broadcasting it under and around the tree.
The heaviest applications should be just beyond the spread of the
limbs where most of the feeding roots are.  Also, after you've spread
the fertilizer, it's a good idea to water it in.  Never apply fertilizer
in extremely dry weather because you could injure the tree.
   You may want to get the fertilizer below the grass line...if so,
punch some shallow holes...about six-to-eight inches deep and apply
the fertilizer about a tablespoon at a time in these holes.  You should
punch as many of the holes as practical at and beyond the drip line of
the tree.
   For more information and suggestions about taking care of your
citrus trees or for a free pamphlet called "Louisiana Citrus," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1607
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1607, ""Planting Citrus Trees."
   Homeowners in South Louisiana can use citrus trees for interesting
and attractive additions to their landscapes.  citrus trees can be used
in a variety of ways:  in hedges, mass plantings, on trellises and even
in containers on patios.
   Choosing the correct variety of citrus is important, because most
are susceptible to freeze damage.  Citrus trees vary in their resistance
to injury from freezing.  Satsumas are the most cold tolerant, followed
by kumquats, sour oranges, sweet oranges, grapefruits, lemons and
limes.  Limes aren't recommended for growing in Louisiana because of
their extreme tenderness and susceptibility to cold.  If you must have
a lime tree, plant Lakeland Limequat.  It doesn't have the flavor and
aroma of its Mexican lime parent, however.
   For growers who want lemons in a home orchard, the Meyer
variety is recommended.  Its cold hardiness is limited, however.  The
Meyer lemon ripens in October and can be used as a lime substitute in
August and September.
   The grapefruit variety planted widely in Louisiana is Ruby Red (Red
Blush).  It is similar to the old Marsh seedless in size and shape.
Grapefruit is well suited for homeowners because it will hold unusually
well on the tree after maturity without losing quality.
   Sweet oranges can be grown in the New Orleans area.  The most
desirable variety is the Valencia.  Kumquats are used mostly as
ornamental plants for decorating fancy gift boxes of citrus and as
fruit for marmalade.  Kumquats make attractive ornamental plants
either as hedges or in containers. 
The satsuma is probably the most widely grown citrus tree in                    
Louisiana.  It is cold hardy and known for its excellent annual
production.  Kimbrough is an excellent variety, as is Owari.  These
fruit are medium to small in size, may be seedless or have only a few
seeds, and can be harvested up to December.
   When you're planting citrus trees, remember that location is
important.  Select protected areas such as those of southern exposures
enclosed on all sides by thick hedges or other buildings.  These
enclosed areas offer protection against north winds.  If possible, place
citrus trees close to your home.  Heat given off by a house can give
extra protection from the cold.  Don't plant citrus trees where there
are other tree roots or where they will be shaded out by larger trees.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut
trees or for a free pamphlet called "Louisiana Citrus," call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Citrus Pruning. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1608
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1608, "Citrus Pruning."
   Normally, citrus trees are not pruned unless there is some
structural, insect, or disease problem that needs to be corrected.
When pruning does become necessary, though, it's usually done during
January and February.
   When you're pruning citrus trees, cut off only enough branches to
accomplish a definite purpose.  For example, a primary reason for
pruning young, non-bearing trees is to shape them so that scaffold
branches will be well distributed.
   If scaffold branches are selected properly, the weak narrow
crotches can be eliminated and future breakage under heavy fruit load
can be avoided.  Proper selection of young scaffold branches will also
reduce the large pruning cuts in future years...thus reducing the
entrance of insects and decay organisms through these pruning wounds.
   The pruning of citrus trees which are of bearing age is usually
done to thin out thick growth and to facilitate spraying and
harvesting.  Dead, weak and broken limbs and disease and insect
infested woods should be removed, too.
   Where you remove large limbs, the cut surfaces should be protected
to prevent entry by insects and diseases.  All limbs should be cut
flush at the point of attachment.  A non-toxic tree coating compound
should be used to paint these wounds.
   Young trees growing in a nursery should be tied to a stake and
pruned to promote upright growth.  If you intend to try to control the
weeds under your citrus trees, it's a good idea to prune the lowest
limbs up off the ground so you can get to the weeds with your
chemicals.
 
If you want more information and suggestions about caring for your   eye        
citrus trees or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called
"Louisiana Citrus," call the county agent in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Citrus Fruit Split and Drop. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1609
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1609, "Citrus Fruit Split and Drop."
   Under certain conditions citrus fruit will split and drop from the
tree...normally caused by a condition created by extremely dry weather
followed by extremely wet weather.
   During dry weather, the fruit on a citrus tree does very little
growing.  If this dry, inactive period is followed by extremely heavy
rain, the fruit attempts to grow or expand much faster than its outer
covering can handle.  As a result, the fruit will split and pop open.
Then, after the fruit has split, disease organisms enter the wound
causing the fruit to sour and drop.
   The best way to prevent splitting and fruit drop on citrus trees is
to make sure the tree does not get into moisture stress situations.
Citrus trees should be irrigated weekly if they don't get weekly
rainfall.  Irrigation should be applied as a slow trickle under the tree
so the water will seep deeply into the soil.  You should trickle the
water at a rate of about two gallons per hour for approximately eight-
to-twelve hours under large mature citrus trees.
   Mulching is also an excellent way to conserve moisture and reduce
the effects of moisture stress on citrus trees.
   For more information and suggestions about taking care of your
citrus trees or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called
"Louisiana Citrus," call the county agent in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Citrus Varieties. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1611
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1611, "Citrus Varieties."
   Which citrus variety you plant in Louisiana depends on where you
live.  As a rule, citrus is fairly easily damaged by cold weather, so no
matter where you live you can expect some occasional cold weather
problems with your citrus trees.  Only the hardier citrus varieties
should be planted north of an imaginary line which runs from New
Orleans to Lake Charles.  The least cold hearty varieties can be
planted in the southern parts of St. Mary, Lafourche, Terrebonne and
Plaquemines parishes.
   Satsumas are probably the most cold hearty citrus available to you.
The satsuma variety Armstrong Early is not as cold hearty as some of
the other satsuma varieties.  But, one advantage of Armstrong Early is
that it ripens in September while the other varieties ripen in October
and November.
   The Owari variety is an excellent satsuma with excellent quality
and yield .  The Kimbrough variety is said to more cold hearty than
other satsuma varieties, however, it has never shown this in research
evaluations.
   The next most cold hearty type of citrus is the kumquat, which is
used mostly for decorating fancy gift boxes of citrus and making
preserves and marmalade.  The Nagami and Meiwa are the kumquat
varieties most often planted in Louisiana.  They will grow wherever
satsumas grow.
   The Nagami produces oblong fruit with a smooth rind, deep orange
color and acid juice.  It ripens from October to February.  The
Nagami tree has a round dense top which makes it adaptable to
driveway plantings.
 
The Meiwa tree is similar to the Nagami tree but it produces round   rno        
fruit with a sweet pulp.  It is considered the sweet kumquat.  The
Meiwa tree is not as vigorous as the Nagami and the Meiwa fruit is
not as well suited for use in decorating gift packs.  Also, the Meiowa
appears to be less cold hearty.
   Other types of citrus you can grow, but are less cold hearty than
satsumas and kumquats are naval oranges, grapefruits, round oranges,
tangelos, tangerines, lemons and limes.
   For more information about planting and growing citrus or for a
free pamphlet called "Louisiana Citrus," call the county agent in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Dwarf Fruit Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1612
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1612, "Dwarf Fruit Trees."
   Commonly grown dwarf fruit trees are generally about thrirty-to-
fourty percent smaller than standard fruit trees...and small apple, pear
and peach trees are well adapted for growing in small gardens where
space is limited.  But, you should know that dwarf fruit trees are not
as easy to grow and generally have more problems than standard size
fruit trees.
   First, let's look at some of the advantages of using dwarf fruit
trees instead of the standard size trees.  Dwarfs begin to bear at an
earlier age...they can be conveniently sprayed and pruned...the fruit is
easily harvested without ladders...the fruit is highly colored and larger
than average size for the variety...and pollination may be insured by
planting several varieties in a limited space.
   Now, the disadvantages...dwarf fruit trees have under-developed
root systems compared to standard fruit trees which means they can
be easily uprooted or blown over in high winds.  Also, dwarf fruit
trees are more susceptible to problems brought on by poor soil
conditions...problems such as soil rot and other diseases.
   Dwarfed pears are produced by budding the desired variety of pear
on quince.  Apples are budded on selected apple seedlings.  These
seedlings are generally less vigorous and therefore produce a dwarfish-
type tree.
   There are dwarf varieties of peaches available, but these are
genetically dwarfed varieties which don't require specific root stocks.
The fruit of dwarf peaches is usually equal to standard size peach
varieties and can be grown in containers on the patio.
 
You may find that some nurseries don't carry dwarf fruit trees, but   .er       
many of the larger mail order nurseries do sell them.  When you order
dwarf fruit trees be sure to specify the combination of root stocks
and varieties you want.
   If you want more information and suggestions about buying,
planting and growing dwarf fruit trees, call the county agent in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Figs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1613
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1613, "Figs."
   Figs may be the most universally grown crop in Louisiana and at
least part of the reason for this popularity is their ability to grow in
several different kinds of soils.
   While there are several varieties of figs which grow well in
Louisiana, Celeste seems to be the most popular.  Celeste is grown in
almost every part of the state because the tree becomes dormant early
in the winter and very tolerant of cold weather.  Celeste is also
known by other names such as Celestial, Celeste Violette, Sugar, Small
Brown, Malta and Blue Celeste.
   Another excellent variety for Louisiana is Brown Turkey.  Brown
Turkey produces medium to large fruit with copper or bronze skin and
amber pulp.  The eye of this fruit is medium open and because of this
it is more susceptible to splitting and souring than are the Celeste
fruits.
   Other varieties commonly planted in Louisiana are Florentine, Hunt,
and Magnolia.
   As mentioned earlier, figs can be planted in a wide variety of soils.
If you plant them in shallow, dry soils...or in unusually fertile soils,
your trees should be spaced further apart...one tree in a square that's
twenty feet by twenty feet.  If you want a bush type fig tree, you
can plant them as close as one tree in a square that's ten feet by ten
feet.
 
You should plant fig trees where they can get full sunlight most of   s,r       
the day.  However, tall trees can sometimes protect fig trees from
severe cold and may be desireable in some locations where there is no
other way to protect them.  However, if you decide to plant under or
near a large tree you should remember stay clear of large trees that
create dense shade or compete for nutrients and soil moisture.
   Fig trees planted to a northern exposure receive more cold
temperatures late in the winter and don't break dormancy...or leaf out
as early as those trees planted to a southern exposure.  So, the
northern planted trees may not be as vulnerable to late spring frosts.
   One of the most important growing requirements of figs is that
they need to be mulched heavily every year.  A good layer of organic
mulch placed over the root system of fig trees will help prevent water
stress and fruit drop during the hotter, drier times of summer.  Any
organic material such as leaves, pine straw, grass clippings...and so
forth...can be used as mulch.
   Fig trees should be fertilized every year with a complete fertilizer
such as 8-8-8 at the rate of about one pound for every year of the
tree's age up to ten years.  Trees which are ten years old or older
should be fertilized every year, but with no more than ten pounds of
fertilizer.
   A good indication of a tree's need for fertilizer is the amount of
shoot growth on the tree...it should be about one to one-and-a-half
feet per year.  Too little shoot growth results in few figs.  Excessive
shoot growth delays the ripening of the figs and lowers the quality.
   You shouldn't fertilize fig trees in late summer, since young,
succulent growth is more susceptible to cold injury.
 
If you want more information and suggestions about growing fig   ty.ive,r       
trees or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Figs for
Commercial and Home Orchards in Louisiana," call the county agent in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pruning Fig Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1614
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1614, "Pruning Fig Trees."
   The way you prune a fig tree depends on the type of plant you
want.
   If you want a fig tree...as opposed to a fig bush...you plant your
fig tree about two inches deeper than it grew in the nursery.  The
transplanted tree should be headed back...that is...cut off, to promote
lateral, or side branches.  If these side branches grow as they should
and form wide angles from the main trunk...they should be left to
develop.  If these branches grow to form narrow angles, they should
be removed.
   Pruning during the second and third dormant seasons should consist
of thinning out the undesirable branches just mentioned and heading
back the main branches to keep them smaller than the main trunk.
You should not let the tree develop multiple trunks.  Also, thick,
inward growth should be removed to keep the tree open.  All diseased
and dead wood should also be removed along with suckers and water
sprouts.
   Now, if you want a fig bush...instead of a fig tree...the tree should
be transplanted about four inches deeper than it originally grew in the
nursery.  This helps sprouts develop at ground level.
   When you transplant your young fig plant, it should be headed back
to about half of its original height.  During the following winter, you
will select four-to-six well spaced, upright growing sprouts.  These
sprouts are used as fruiting wood and may be kept pruned so that
most of the fruit are easily harvested without having to use a ladder.
   Pruning upward-growing shoots, short...and outward-growing shoots,
long, will produce a flat-top tree.  This kind of pruning is especially
suited to areas where fig trees are frequently killed by cold weather.

 
Regular pruning increases fruit size because of its thinning effect.   dr       
The heading back of main branches and the removal of dead, weak and
undesirable wood will do this.  If you prune your fig trees regularly,
you should make most cuts with pruning shears.  All large cuts should
be treated with a protective wound healing compound.
   If you would like more information about growing fig trees or if
you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Figs for Commercial
and Home Orchards in Louisiana," call the county agent in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Growing Peaches. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1617
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1617, "Growing Peaches."
   Peaches are an excellent fruit for a family orchard, but if you're
going to plant one tree, select a citrus fruit tree or a pear tree
because peach trees require a lot of attention and are unattractive
when planted alone.
   Each peach variety requires a certain amount of winter chilling
below 45 degrees Fahrenheit before it will bloom and grow normally.
Varieties recommended for the New Orleans area include:  Sam
Houston, La Feliciana, May Gold and others.
   Our high humidity fosters diseases and insect problems, and you'll
need to spray often to overcome these pests.  If you aren't committed
to following a spraying program, don't plant peach trees.
   The ideal soil for peaches is from 12 to 36 inches of sandy loam
soil underlaid with a porous red clay subsoil.  The topsoil and subsoil
should have good internal drainage with no water logging problems.
The clay subsoil should anchor the trees and serve as a major water
reservoir.  If you have silt or clay soil with poor internal drainage,
plant your peach trees on slightly raised beds.  This will encourage
maximum surface drainage.
   The location of your peach trees is important.  Peach trees in full
bloom located on a higher elevation with good air movement will
suffer little or no freeze damage if the temperature drops to 29
degrees on a March morning.  Trees in a low or flat area could lose
their crops though.  You'll also need to provide mature trees with
water, so plant where irrigation water is available.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut
trees or for a free pamphlet called "Louisiana Home Fruit Orchard,"
call the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Pruning Peach and Nectarine Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/15/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1618
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1618, "Pruning Peach and Nectarine Trees."
   People with home orchards can use pruning to real advantage in
the production of large, quality fruit with good color.
   Peach trees which are trained and pruned properly are well-shaped
and capable of supporting heavy crop loads.  They are also capable of
withstanding strong winds.  Pruning also stimulates growth.  This is
important, because peach trees bear their fruit on one-year-old wood.
This means that pruning is one of the best means available to assure
an annual supply of this essential wood on which fruit is borne.
   Both peaches and nectarines can be trained by the three-limb open
center method.  During the first two or three years, the training
develops the proper framework of the young tree.  By the third year,
properly handled trees will begin to bear significantly.  Then the type
of pruning changes.  Follow these steps to train and prune peach and
nectarine trees:
   At planting time, prune the nursery tree to a single stem, or whip,
and top at a height of two feet.  Remove branches lower than about
16 inches and cut others back to short stubs with one or two buds.
This ensures that the tree will have enough buds for tree growth in
the spring.
   Within a few weeks after growth begins in the spring, choose three
or four vigorous shoots about six to 12 inches long arising from near
the same point on the main stem, at a height of about 18 to 24
inches.  These young shoots will become the primary scaffold limbs, so
they should be spaced evenly and point in different directions. Cut
back all other shoots by one-half.  The short stub of the main stem
above the junction with the highest scaffold limb can be removed or
left intact. If this stub is left, remove all young shoots and buds on
it.  The main advantage in leaving the stub is that it serves as a
spreader and helps keep the top scaffold limb from becoming the
dominant growing branch.
   During the first growing season, let the three scaffold limbs grow
unchecked but remove all other shoots.  During the first winter,
remove all branches arising from the main stem except for the three
primary scaffold branches, but watersprouts--vigorous, upright shoots--
arising on the lower parts of these main branches and on low-lying
limbs should be removed.
   Continue this same training and pruning procedure for the second
winter.  If, at this later stage, the tree height has reached about five
or six feet, prune growth terminals back to an outward growing
branch.  This may not be necessary until the third winter.  Remove
any large, lateral branches growing inward.  These will cause excessive
shading of the center of the tree.
   Beginning in the third winter and in the winters following, pruning
will consist mainly of heading back growth terminals to an outward
growing branch. This helps reduce excessive tree height and maintains
branches growing in the proper direction to keep the center of the
tree open to sunlight.  You'll also need to remove excess branches
such as watersprouts and overcrowded branches.  Remove all dead or
diseased branches, too.  The variety and vigor of the trees will
determine if you need to thin and renew fruiting terminals.
   You might want to allow trees to grow so tall that you need a
ladder to harvest fruit.  Or you may want to keep them at a height
where you can reach the fruit without a ladder.
   You'll need to keep the center of the tree fairly open, but don't
strip the center of all bearing wood.  When it's necessary to limit the
height or spread of an older tree, do this by heading back to two- or
three-year-old wood where one or more side branches occur.
   Properly cared for peach trees should live and produce peaches for
10 to 12 years--possibly longer.  Pruning is an important step toward
the ultimate success of your peach trees.  For maximum benefits, do it
at the right time and in the correct manner.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut
trees or for a pamphlet called "Louisiana Fruit Orchard," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Pecans, Planting and Fertilization. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1620
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1620, "Pecans, Planting and Fertilization."
   Proper planting and proper training of pecan trees are very
important in the growing of pecans.
   Success with pecan trees at your home depends on...buying vigorous
and fresh pecan nursery stock...keeping the root system moist at all
times...reducing the budded or grafted top by one-third to one-half at
the time of planting...and using container-grown trees whenever
possible.
   When you're looking for pecan trees, you should choose sturdy,
vigorous plants from a reliable nursery.  There should be no disease or
nematode damage on the roots and the tops should be well developed
and identified correctly.  A moderate size tree...about four to six feet
tall...from a nursery will suffer less transplant shock and usually will
become established more quickly and grow faster than a large tree.
   Keep the root system moist at all times.  You should plant the tree
immediately when you get it.  If it will be several days before you get
a chance to plant it, you should heel it in with moist soil.
   Before you plant, cut off all broken and bruised roots with shears
or a sharp knife.  Most new roots develop on side roots and not more
than ten inches from the tap root.
   Before you put the tree in the ground, remove the top one-third to
one-half.  This will help the tree  compensate for the part of the root
system that was lost when it was dug up at the nursery.
 
Dig the hole for the tree just wide enough and deep enough for   e rootlr       
the root system to fit without bending any of the roots.  If the soil is
really heavy textured or has little nutritive value and you're tempted
to dig a large hole and bring in some better topsoil...the location
probably is not suitable for pecans.
   If you soil is really heavy and has poor internal drainage, you will
need to plant your tree on a raised bed or on a turtle back.  Set the
tree at the same depth it was planted at the nursery...and arrange the
roots in their natural position.
   Fill the hole about three-quarters full with the same soil that was
taken from the hole.  Pour water into the hole to settle the soil,
eliminate air pockets and keep the roots moist.
   Keeping the right amount of moisture around the roots of young
trees is very important the first season.  The best way to water young
trees is with a slow soaking over several hours.  The water should
trickle at one to two gallons per hour.  Frequent, shallow irrigations
do little, if any, good.
   Pecan trees should be fertilized every year.  One year old trees
should be fertilized during the late dormant season...usually February
or early March.  Young trees planted in deep, loamy, fertile soils may
not need fertilizer immediately.  But, trees transplanted into unfertile
soils may require several applications of fertilizer beginning in June of
the year the tree was transplanted.
   Apply the fertilizer in a narrow band...two to three feet
wide...under the tree from the trunk to slightly beyond the tip of the
branches.  Be careful when you put out fertilizer this way because you
can injure the lawn grass.
If you decide to apply fertilizer after it has been dry for a long time,
it's best to water the area thoroughly...with about one to two inches
of water.
 
How much fertilizer you use depends on the size of the tree.   inchesme,f       
Apply three pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or an
equivalent amount of another fertilizer for every inch of trunk
diameter measured about four feet above the soil line.  During the
growing season...in the months of May or June...add another half pound
of ammonia nitrate per inch of trunk diameter.
   Fertilizer can be applied in shallow holes six-to-eight inches deep
dug at or beyond the drip line of the tree.  As many holes as is
practical should be used to distribute and dilute the fertilizer as much
as possible.  Put no more
that two or three tablespoons of fertilizer in each hole.
   For more information and suggestions about growing pecan trees, call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pecans, Reasons for Poor Quality. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/29/82 (Puls)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1621
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1621,
"Pecans, Reasons for Poor Quality."
   Even in years with bumper crops, pecan trees do not always
produce top quality nuts.  The causes for loss in pecan quality are
numerous. One such cause is too little water.
   Pecans go through two stages of development.  Stage one occurs
during the first 100 days when the nut develops in size.  No real
kernel development takes place in stage one.  In stage two, which
begins after the first 100 days, the kernels begin to fill out and
become solid.  Kernel development is the critical period--the time
when pecan quality can be affected most seriously.  Lack of water at
this stage cuts the percentage of fill in the nut itself.
   Small pecans reflect a possible water deficit early in the nut's
development.  Poorly filled pecans generally mean the nuts didn't
receive enough water in stage two.
   A fungus disease called scab is another cause of poor nut quality.
Scab, which results in shriveled kernels, affects the leaves and
covering of nuts and is characterized by many black lesions.  Once the
covering, or shuck, is damaged or destroyed, kernel development
ceases because of poor nutrition.  Sometimes you can harvest fully
sized nuts that, when cracked, have little--if any--kernel.
   An insect called the hickory shuck worm is a serious pest which
feeds on pecan shucks.  It can affect pecan quality, too.  Damage is
recognized at harvest when the shuck fails to separate from the nut
itself.
   Poor fertility can affect nut quality, too.  Each pecan needs about
40 leaflets to support its development.  Fertilize pecan trees each year
to maintain quality. 
To control pecan tree problems that affect nut quality, follow a                
program of insect and disease control.  Even with a standard spray
program, pecan trees need water and fertilizer.
   For information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut trees,
call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pecan Trees in the Lawn. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1622
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1622, "Pecan Trees in the Lawn."
   Pecan trees can be grown throughout Louisiana...but, don't be
deceived.  Even with modern disease resistant varieties, pecan trees
need regular fertilization, water and pesticide applications if they are
to produce nuts consistently.
   Pecan trees can be grown successfully on most Louisiana soils, but
only soils with good surface and internal drainage are considered best.
Poorly drained clay soils produce weak growing trees with few pecans.
   The ideal pecan soil is a deep, sandy, loam.  Try not to plant
pecan trees in soils with a tight, sticky sub-soil, and with a water
table higher than three feet.  If drainage is a problem, plant trees at
the highest elevation you can find or build ridges or turtle backs to
encourage better drainage.
   Pecan trees should be planted in as open an area as possible...away
from competing shade trees.  Never plant a pecan tree within 15 to 20
feet of the drip line of a larger shade tree.
   Ideally, pecan trees should get six to eight hours of full sunlight
per day.  Don't plant pecan trees in a heavily shaded environment.
   Pecan trees should be at least 30 feet apart.  In some cases where
trees are open on two sides, the spacing may be as close as 20 to 25
feet apart. But, trees planted in blocks with other trees on all four
sides should be planted 30 to 35 feet apart to prevent eventual
crowding.
 
If you would like more information and suggestions about growing   urtte        
pecan trees or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called
"Homeowners Guide for Fertilizing Pecan Trees," call the county agent
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pecan Varieties. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1623
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1623, "Pecan Varieties."
   You should make your decision about which pecan variety to grow
based on what you like and which varieties are most resistant to
diseases.  By choosing a highly disease resistant pecan variety for
your lawn or yard, you will greatly reduce the amount of spraying you
need to do to control diseases.
   A couple of other things you may want to think about when you're
deciding on a pecan variety is how long it takes the tree to produce
pecans and the size of the nut.
   There are several varieties recommended for Louisiana home
planting... we'll begin with Elliot.  Elliot is an intermediate-to-small
sized pecan which takes eight-to-twelve years to get into production.
It has a "tear-drop" shape, excellent shell-out percentage and excellent
eating qualities.  Also, its disease resistance is excellent.
   Sumner is another good variety.  Sumner takes five-to-six years to
get into production and produces a medium sized nut and it also has
excellent disease resistance.
   Melrose...another variety...takes six-to-eight years to get into
production and produces an average to large sized pecan.  Melrose is
probably the most disease resistant of all the varieties recommended
for home plantings in Louisiana.
   Candy...the last of the recommended varieties...takes five-to-six
years to get into production and has a small to medium sized pecan
and has good to fair disease resistance.  Candy is probably the most
productive variety of those mentioned.
 
If you want more information about growing and taking care of   mostoent        
pecan trees or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called
"Selected Pecan Varieties for Louisiana," call the county agent in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Persimmons. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/25/82 (Puls)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1624
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1624,
"Persimmons."
   Persimmon trees make excellent shade trees and, if handled
correctly, the fruit has good cooking quality--especially in baked goods
like breads and cookies.
   There are three basic species of persimmons:  the date plum, the
American persimmon and the oriental persimmon.  Only the oriental
persimmon is recommended for home planting.
   The oriental persimmon is native to Japan and China.  It has large
fruit about the size of an apple.  Although its fruit can be strong and
bitter, some varieties are quite mild.  Persimmons require a well-aired,
well-drained soil, so correct any soil drainage problems you have
before planting.
   Contrary to common belief, the fruit of the persimmon does not
have to be exposed to a frost before it loses its strong, bitter taste.
To reduce the bitterness, harvest fruit as it begins to turn orange.
Place fruit in a cool, dry location.  As fruit becomes soft, it can be
eaten.  Do not place persimmons in the refrigerator before they ripen.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruits and
nuts, call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Growing Nectarines. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1626
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1626, "Growing Nectarines."
   Nectarines are smooth-skinned, fuzzless peaches which are gaining
in popularity.
   Nectarines are considered by some people to be sweeter and to
have a more distinctive flavor and aroma than peaches.
   If you're interested in planting nectarines, be sure to choose
varieties suitable for New Orleans.  Some of the varieties which have
been adapted to the New Orleans area are:  Sungold, Sunred, Sunrich
and Panamint.
   Nectarines have the same climate, soil and cultural requirements as
peaches.  They don't require cross pollination, so a single tree will
bear fruit.
   Plant nectarine trees in areas receiving full sunlight and avoid
areas with poorly drained soils.  The ideal soil is a sandy loam.
Planting sites should be higher than surrounding areas so water will
drain away from trees.
   Because of their smooth skin, nectarines are more subject to
damage by certain insects--especially the plum curculio.  Oriental fruit
moths also damage nectarines.  This fruit is also susceptible to brown
rot, a fungus associated with humid weather conditions.  A spray
program to control brown rot must be persistent, because the sprays
do not stick as well on the smooth-skinned nectarine as they do on
the fuzzy-skinned peach.
   Spray nectarines with a recommended insect and fungicide mixture
such as Ortho Fruit and Nut Spray every seven to ten days during the
fruiting season.  Repeat application when excessive moisture or rainfall
occurs within 36 hours of any application.
   The Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing any
commercial product by mentioning it, there may be other products
which work equally well.                         For more
information and suggestions about growing fruit or for a free
pamphlet called "Louisiana Home Fruit Orchard," call the county agent
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Growing Plums. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1627
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1627, "Growing Plums."
   Plums are among the best selections for home fruit plantings.
There are three distinct groups:  American, Japanese and European.
In each group are subgroups and varieties.  In addition, there are
many hybrids.
   Excellent varieties for south Louisiana are:  Santa Rosa, Bruce and
Methly.  Santa Rosa and Methly are excellent pollinating varieties and
should be planted in combination with other varieties.
   Plum trees vary in the pollination requirements.  Poor pollination is
the main cause of unfruitfulness among plums planted in a home
orchard.  Some varieties are partially self-sterile and others are
completely self-sterile.  Always plant two varieties.  Not just any two
varieties will pollinate each other, however.  For example, Bruce--
which is one of the recommended varieties--is a self-sterile Japanese-
American hybrid.  It needs to be pollinated by Santa Rosa.
   In selecting a site for planting plum trees, choose an area in full
sunlight.  Plums do better on clay loam soils than on lighter soils.
The lighter soils, if not too light, may be used if they are reasonably
fertile, in good physical condition and are well supplied with moisture.
Whatever the soil, it should have good drainage.  Plums are susceptible
to injury from a high water table.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit or for a
free pamphlet called "Louisiana Home Fruit Orchard," call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Plums, Pruning 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-





                           Tele-Tip 1628
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTips number
1628, "Plums, Pruning".
   People with home orchards can use pruning to real advantage in
the production of high quality plums.
   Plum trees which are trained and pruned properly are well-shaped
and capable of supporting heavy crop loads.  They are also capable of
withstanding strong winds.  Pruning also stimulates growth.
   Plums can be trained by the four-limb open center method.  During
the first two or three years, the training develops the proper
framework of the young tree.  By the third year, properly handled
trees will begin to bear significantly.  Then the type of pruning
changes.  Follow these steps to train and prune plum trees.
   At planting time, prune the nursery tree to a single stem, or whip,
and top it at a height of two feet.  Remove branches lower than
about 16 inches and cut others back to short stubs with one or two
buds.  This ensures that the tree will have enough buds for tree
growth in the spring.
   Within a few weeks after growth begins in the spring, choose four
vigorous shoots about six to 12 inches long arising from near the same
point on the main stem, at a height of about 18 to 24 inches.  These
young shoots will become the primary scaffold limbs, so they should be
spaced evenly and point in different directions.
   Cut back all other shoots by one-half.  The short stub of the main
stem above the junction with the highest scaffold limb can be removed
or left intact.  If this stub is left, remove all young shoots and buds
on it.  The main advantage in leaving the stub is that it serves as a
spreader and helps keep the top scaffold limb from becoming the
dominant growing branch.                         A light level of
pruning is recommended for the Bruce plum variety.  This means
removing one-third of the previous season's growth and thinning
interior and fruiting spurs only lightly.  Remove all overcrowded and
low hanging limbs annually, as well as excess shoots or watersprouts
arising on the trunk and main scaffold branches.  Maintain tree height
as you desire--tall enough to use a ladder to pick plums or short
enough to reach plums conveniently.
   To maintain tree vigor, you may need to use a heavier degree of
pruning every third year.  Light pruning of Bruce will result in
extremely heavy yields of medium-sized fruit.  More severe pruning
increases fruit size but reduces yield.  Plum trees will remain
productive for 10 to 12 years, maybe longer.
   Other varieties grown in Louisiana may be pruned similar to Bruce,
but less severely.  Some are more upright in growth and require little
heading back.  They'll need thinning out.  When these varieties begin
bearing fruit, little pruning is required.  Unlike peaches, plums are
borne on vigorous spurs on woods two years old or older.  Of course
these varieties can be pruned as severely as Bruce, and you'll have
fewer, but larger, fruit.  If irrigation is limited or soils are poor,
severe heading back can help produce larger fruit.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut
trees or for a pamphlet called "Louisiana Fruit Orchard," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Globe (bur) Artichokes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/15/82
Area:  South
                           Tele-Tip 1700
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1700,
"Globe (bur) Artichokes."
   Although many of the globe artichokes found in the marketplace
come from California, there's one species that thrives well in south
Louisiana's warm climate.
   Known as the Creole, this variety of artichoke provides a tasty
dish when boiled and served with drawn butter and sauce.  Its bud
scales fold outward.
   The best source for this plant comes from rooted suckers that rise
at the base of the old plant in the Spring when the flowering stage is
over.  Since the mother plant dies after blooming, leave one of its
suckers in the ground for replacement.  Also, ignore the seed produced
by the old plant because they won't propagate plants that are true to
form.
   Artichokes flourish well in rich soil with plenty of organic matter
and fertilizer.  Use a pound of a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 per
10 feet of row.  Plant the suckers three to four feet apart.  They will
spread.
   Don't become alarmed if the plants attract green flies.  They
provide a warning that lice are invading your plants which need to be
sprayed with malathion or diazinon.
   Your artichokes are ready to be harvested when the flowers are in
the tight bud stage and the burs are plump and the scales soft.
Lateral buds continue to produce chokes.  However, they will be
smaller.
   Artichokes are usually cooked by boiling them upright for 20 to 30
minutes and served with butter or sauce.  The soft, fleshy receptacle
of the flowerhead and the thickened bases of the scales are the edible
parts.           For more gardening information and suggestions or
for a leaflet about growing artichokes, call the county agent in your
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Jerusalem Artichoke. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/8/82 (Koske)
Area:  State
                           Tele-Tip 1701
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1701,
"Jerusalem Artichoke."
   The Jerusalem artichoke is nothing like the standard artichoke or
globe artichoke.  The Jerusalem artichoke is much like a small
sunflower.  It is grown for its fleshy underground tubers that are used
much as Irish potatoes are used.  It is best adapted to the northern
United States.  There, large yields of tubers can be grown with very
little effort.  The plants are perennial and are re-established every
year from choke tubers that remain in the ground.  In fact, its
aggressive nature may cause it to be considered a pest.  In the Gulf
South, such as in Louisiana, growers will have problems getting good
stands and maintaining planting stocks.  Yields from southern-grown
plants may also be discouraging.
   In the north, the Jerusalem artichoke sometimes grows wild along
the roadside.  These plants produce small, edible tubers which are
inferior in quality.  Varieties offered in nurseries and catalogs will be
superior in quality.
   This large, vigorously growing plant needs rich soil and good
growing conditions to produce high yields.  Soil should be loose and
airy, and the plot should get full sun all day.  Tubers growing in
heavier soils may be more numerous but will be much smaller and
perhaps not worth the effort.
   Most soils can be improved with deep cultivation and the addition
of several inches of compost worked into the soil.  Incorporate into
the soil about a pound to a pound and one-half of complete fertilizer
such as 8-8-8 per 25 feet of row.  Build up the row so aeration and
drainage will be adequate.  Because the chokes, or tubers develop in
the ground as much as two feet away from the plant, make rows about
four feet wide. 
Set seed pieces a few inches deep and at least two feet apart in                
the row.  Plant whole tubers or tuber pieces about the size of an
Irish potato piece (about 2 ounces).  Smaller pieces will result in
smaller yields.
   Keep plant beds clean while the crop is young and developing.
Cultivation should be shallow to avoid damaging the tubers or the
stolons connecting the tubers to the mother plant.  After the plants
have grown a bit, use little or no cultivation.
   The plant will grow vigorously before setting this tubers.  Shortly
after blossoming, the green tops will begin to decline and the tubers
will begin to fill out.  Leave the tops undisturbed and growing
vigorously until harvest or frost
   When the tubers have reached a harvestable size, or when frost has
taken the plants, cut and remove the large, woody tops from the row.
Start digging about two feet from the plant.  Use a garden fork.  This
will provide the greatest yields, but it's a lot of work.  Tubers have
very thin skins and must be handled carefully.  Once they are dug,
the tubers cannot be stored for more than a few weeks without heavy
loss from shrinkage and decay.  If it's late in the season and the soil
is cool, leave them undisturbed in the soil until you need them.
   Remember:  Use only sound tubers from healthy stock.  Plant as
early as the soil can be worked in the spring -- about the same time
you plant Irish potatoes.  Plant a two-ounce piece and give it plenty
of growing room.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service. 
                   mist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperativeyil         
-End-
-Title-
Asparagus. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1702
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1702, "Asparagus."
   Asparagus can be grown in Louisiana...but the spears produced by
the plants will be slim and the harvest period will be short.
Generally, our climate is too hot for good asparagus production.  So,
the chances of producing asparagus are much better in the northern
part of the state than in the southern part.
   Asparagus is a perennial crop, which means it will come back year
after year without replanting.
   If you decide to plant asparagus, you should plant one-year-old
crowns in the fall or winter.  Choose a sunny, well-drained spot for
your permanent asparagus bed.  Plant the crowns by draping the roots
over a heavily composted mound.  Then cover the crowns with two or
three inches of loamy soil.  Rows should be about three-to-four feet
apart and the plants should be about one-to-one-and-a-half feet apart
on the rows.
   While you're preparing the bed for the plants, mix in one pound or
one pint of 8-24-24 fertilizer per 100 square feet of garden.
   Asparagus plants need several years of growth before they can
tolerate being harvested.  The one-year-old fall-planted crowns are not
to be harvested the following spring. 
Harvest three-year-old plants lightly...about every one-to-two                  
weeks.  This will allow the remaining spears that develop to produce
the "fern-like" growth.  Harvest four-year-old plants for two to three
weeks.  Harvest five year old or older plants four to five weeks.
Extensive harvesting any given year will cause the plant to produce a
very poor crop the following year and it will shorten the life of the
plants.  Encourage maximum fern-like growth after the harvest period
until frost with adequate watering, light fertilization each month and
proper care.
   Mulch your asparagus plants early and at harvest's end to cool the
crowns.  Such cooling may extend the harvest period.  Beds must be
kept free of weeds and grasses because asparagus will not tolerate
much competition. Four herbicides are recommended for controlling
weeds and grasses around asparagus.  They are dalapon, simazine,
trifluralin and metribuzin.  Be sure to read and follow the directions
on the container.
   The variety of asparagus most often recommended for Louisiana is
Mary Washington.  This variety seems to be resistant to the rust
fungus.  Other varieties used in Louisiana are Reading, Giant and
Palmetto.  It's advisable to buy root stock for asparagus rather than
planting seed.  This saves a year of growing time.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                    
-End-
-Title-
Lima Beans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  8/18/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1703
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1703,
"Lima Beans."
   Lima beans...also called butter beans...shouldn't be planted until the
danger of frost has passed in the spring and the soil temperature has
warmed up considerably.  Lima bean plants are tender and can't
withstand frost.
   March 1 is the earliest limas should be planted in the southern part
of the state and the end of March is the earliest they should be
planted in the northern part of the state.
   Lima beans are, of course, grown for their seeds...so they require a
little longer growing time than do snap beans which are grown for
their pods.  Bush limas need about 60-65 days from planting to grow
to a harvestable size.  Pole limas take longer to mature...75-90 days.
   Several varieties of lima beans do well in Louisiana.  They include:
Henderson Bush, Thorogreen, Clark's Bush, Nemagreen (which is
nematode resistant), and Jackson Wonder.  Except for Jackson Wonder,
all of these are bush beans which produce green baby limas.  Jackson
Wonder produces white beans with purple specks.  The Jackson
Wonders turn brown when you cook them and they don't taste exactly
like the others.
   If you prefer pole beans, here are the varieties which are
recommended for Louisiana:  Carolina Sieva, Florida Speckled,
Easyshell and Willow Leaf.
   If you spread out the planting of your beans to every two or three
weeks from the time you start through May, you should be able to
pick fresh beans most of the cooler part of summer and again in the
fall.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Growing Lima Beans in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
-End-
-Title-
Growing Snap Beans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1704
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1704, "Growing Snap Beans."
   Snap beans are a cool season vegetable...but they can't tolerate
frost. And because they are a cool season crop, snap beans don't set
many fruit during mid-summer when the temperatures are hot.  So, the
best time to plant snap beans is after the danger of frost and before
the middle of May.
   If you grow bush beans, make more than one planting and spread
them about two weeks apart to extend your harvest.  Pole varieties
will naturally produce for a longer time so you will need to make only
one planting.
   There are several varieties of snap beans available which give
excellent yields and quality.  Among these are Bush Blue Lake 274,
Astro, Eagle, Falcon, and Avalanche.  Some other good varieties which
have been around a while include Contender, Harvester and Provider.
   If you haven't tried one of the newer varieties you may want to
try one of them when you plant your next crop.  You may also be
interested in the yellow-podded snap beans.  The varieties Sun Gold,
Gold Crop and Sure Crop Stringless Wax are the recommended
varieties for Louisiana.  You grow the yellow-podded beans the same
way you grow the green-podded beans.
   The most popular pole snap beans to grow are Blue Lake and
Kentucky Wonder 191.  Kentucky Wonder 191 is an improvement of the
original Kentucky Wonder.
   Here's how much seed you'll need to plant your snap beans.  If
you're planting the bush varieties, a half-pound of seed will plant a
row 100 feet long. If you're planting pole varieties, one-fourth pound
will plant a row 100 feet long.  You'll want to get a stand of at least
four-to-six plants per foot of row of the bush-type beans and two-to-
three plants for every 6 to 12 inches of row for the pole types.
   Snap beans use relatively little fertilizer, but you will need to give
them some.  On soils of medium to low fertility, apply about two-to-
three pounds of a complete fertilizer per 100 feet of row before you
plant.
   The bush beans will begin producing within about 50 days from
planting, while the pole varieties will get started about 60-to-66 days
after planting.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Grow Snap Beans," call the county agent in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Beets and Carrots. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1705
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1705, "Beets and Carrots."
   Two good crops for the winter garden are beets and carrots.  Both
are good producers, require a small space for growing, they're rich in
vitamins and are relatively easy to grow.
   Beets and carrots can be planted from September until February.
Select a well-drained area and rake the soil into rows.  If manure or
compost is to be added to the soil, be sure the material is well-rotted.
Apply one pound of an 8-24-24 fertilizer for each 25- to 30-feet of
row, then seed the vegetables one-quarter inch deep.  In medium and
heavy soils, choose only those carrot varieties which are stubby...such
as Danvers and Chantenay.
   The several weeks before the seeds germinate are critical.  Keep
the soil uniformly moist all the time around the seed area, even if this
means sprinkling lightly with water every day.  A thin layer of mulch
will help keep the seed area damp and stop the soil from crusting.
After sprouts appear, prevent over-crowding of the plants by thinning
them to one every two inches.
   Continue the uniform supply of moisture in the soil, keep the beds
weed-free, and side-dress with fertilizer after the plants are four to
five weeks old.  Don't allow carrots to stop growing because of a lack
of food or water. If they stop growing they may split or become
tough.
   The beets are ready to be harvested when the roots are two to
three inches in diameter.  Carrots can be taken from the row when
they reach a half-inch or more in diameter.  Both vegetables are high
in Vitamin C and the beet tops are rich in Vitamin A.
   The variety Ruby Queen is a good beet, but there are also some
golden type beets and some long ones.
 
For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county   ighkise       
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service. 
                                parish office of the Louisianay   ighkise       
-End-
-Title-
Broccoli. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1706
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1706, "Broccoli."
   Broccoli is a popular member of the cabbage family.  It can be
grown in both the spring and fall, and it's fairly easy to grow.  It
needs a well-drained, fertile soil and adequate moisture.
   For the fall garden, seed broccoli in late July through August.
Plant seed directly in the row or in pots to be transplanted later.
For spring production, plant the seed in pots in a greenhouse, hotbed
or coldframe during Janaury. Recommended varieties are:  Green
Comet, Premium Crop, Bravo, Green Hornet, Green Duke, Cleopatra,
and DeCicco.
   A week or two before planting, prepare the soil and apply about
four to five pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 8-24-24 per 100
feet of row.  If you're using transplants, set the plants at the same
depth that they are in the container.  Space them about 15 to 18
inches apart in the row.  Rows should be about three feet apart.
Water at time of transplanting.
   About three to four weeks after transplanting, and before the crop
begins to form head, sidedress with about one-half cup of ammonium
nitrate per 100 feet of row.
   Harvest broccoli after the main head develops and before the
individual flowerlets begin to open.  As the flowers open, the quality
goes down quickly.
   If caterpillars and worms are a problem, control them with
Thuricide, Biotrol, or Dipel.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Production of Cauliflower, Broccoli and Brussels
Sprouts," call the county agent or home economist in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Growing Chinese Cabbage. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1708
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1708, "Growing Chinese Cabbage."
   Chinese cabbage is an oriental vegetable that can be grown in
Louisiana gardens and used in salads and sandwiches instead of lettuce.
It's also known as celery cabbage because some varieties are tall and
slender.  It's a close cousin of regular cabbage.  Most varieties
produce oblong, firm, crisp heads. The leaves of Chinese cabbage are
slightly wrinkled and are a lighter, brighter green than leaves of
regular cabbage.  The wide, white midribs of the leaves are crisp and
have a nice flavor.  The leaves closely resemble lettuce in color and
texture.  The mild flavor of Chinese cabbage is more like that of
lettuce than that of cabbage.
   Chinese cabbage can be grown as an early winter and mid-winter
vegetable.  If planted too late in the fall or  spring, the heads often
"bolt" or send up a flower stalk before they head up.  You can grow
Chinese cabbage from seed or from transplants.  Seeds are sold locally
and by mail order.  Plant seeds directly in late August through
October for a late fall and early winter crop.  Treat Chinese cabbage
like lettuce or regular cabbage, spacing heads one foot apart for
larger heads and 10 inches apart for smaller heads.  Fertilization,
weed control and pest control are the same as for cabbage or lettuce.
   For a spring crop, start seed in January in a protected area or
indoors where they will get plenty of light.  When plants are three to
four inches tall, set them out.  The heads are ready to pick when
they are firm.  For home use, plant double rows so heads are 2 to 3
pounds.  If spaced wider, they can reach 10 to 12 pounds.  Wrap
harvested heads in plastic and they'll last several weeks in the
refrigerator. 
Varieties recommended for home gardens are:  Burpee Hybrid, Early               
Hybrid G, Springtime, Summertime, Wintertime, Early Autumn and Early
Top 16.  The name may imply the season in which the variety matures,
but all can be grown in either the fall or spring.
   Chinese cabbage can be used as you use lettuce, but it's also good
in slaw.  It's good shredded and cooked, too.  Begin cooking the white
midrib, then add leaf blades after the midribs have cooked a little.
You might want to make relish sticks from raw midribs.  Chinese
cabbage is low in calories and good source of vitamin C.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
 
.                              the Louisiana Cooperative Extensione.te          
-End-
-Title-
Growing Cabbage. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1709
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1709, "Growing Cabbage."
   Cabbage is a cool season vegetable which can be produced in the
spring, fall and winter in Louisiana.  In south Louisiana, transplants or
seed can be planted from the end of January through February.  By
planting on several different dates, you can be sure all cabbage isn't
ready to harvest at the same time.
   This shallow-rooted crop requires moderate amounts of fertilizer.
Before planting, apply from four to six pounds of a complete such as
8-24-24 or 8-8-8 for each 100 feet of row. Sidedress with nitrogen
about three or four weeks after transplanting and four to six weeks
after seeding.  Apply ammonium nitrate at the rate of one pound for
100 hundred feet of row.
   The head size of cabbage is determined by the variety, fertilizer
and spacing between plants.  Some varieties, such as Rio Verde and
Hercules, produce large heads. Others, such as Little Rock, produce
small heads.  Plants spaced closely will produce smaller heads.  Wide
spacing will encourage production of larger heads.  Recommended
spacing is 12 to 15 inches on rows at least three feet apart.  You can
also increase production in a small garden by planting a double row on
a bed.
   In Louisiana, cabbage often "bolts" or produces seed head
prematurely.  This bolting or premature formation of seed head occurs
when cabbage is exposed to temperatures of about 40 degrees F or
lower for several weeks.  The larger the seedling exposed to these
temperatures, the more likely it is to bolt.
   Cabbage varieties recommended for Louisiana are...Rio Verde,
Market Prize, Solid Blue, A and C Number 5 plus, Fortuna, Ocala,
Greenboy, Little Rock, Tastie, Green Jewel, Superette, Round Dutch,
Blue Boy, Savoy King and Stonehead. 
For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free                    
pamphlet called "Producing Cabbage in Louisiana," call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               

-End-
-Title-
Melons. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1710
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1710, "Melons."
   You can balance off the heat from those hot summer days by
serving ice cold watermelon or cantaloupe grown in your own home
garden.
   And, whether you know them as cantaloupes or muskmelons, this
member of the melon family, along with watermelons, grows well in
Louisiana's hot climate.
   Because of their long growing season of three or four months,
seeds may be started indoors at the end of February in south
Louisiana.  The small seedlings can be transplanted three or four
weeks after the last cool spell if the soil is warm.  You can also seed
both melon varieties directly in the row by waiting until mid-March
when the soil is warm.  The soil-warming effect of black plastic mulch
will really pay off here. Also, black plastic conserves moisture
reduces the incidence of leaf disease.
   To give your melons a tasty flavor derived from proper sugar
development, select an area receiving day-long sunshine.  Provide good
drainage by building up high rows or hills.  Mix soil with generous
amounts of organic matter or bury several handfuls of compost where
the melons are to be planted.
   There's no problem involved in planting watermelons or cantelopes
next to other plants, such as cucumbers.  If the melons are planted in
rows, leave about three feet of space for cantaloupes and four feet
for watermelons.  For hill planting, thin the seedlings down to three
or four plants per hill.  Apply a pound of 8-8-8 fertilizer down 30
feet of row when vines begin to run. 
Take precautions against over-watering.  You should irrigate only               
when the plants tend to wilt during the day or when vigorous vine
growth stops.  Use hoses or flood irrigation to reduce disease
problems caused by splashing the leaves with mud.
   The cantaloupe varieties recommended by the Cooperative Extension
Service are Ambrosia, Magnum 45, Classic, Top Score, Roadside and
Burpee Hybrid.  The recommended watermelon varieties are Louisiana
Queen, Jubilee, Sweet Favorite, Charleston Gray, Calhoun Gray and
Crimson Sweet.
   Since taste is important in growing watermelons and cantaloupes,
keep in mind these points:  Select a sunny location that has good
drainage and rich organic soil, and keep the melon area free of weeds
and don't over-water your plants, especially around harvest time.
Omitting any of these steps can result in flat-tasting and poor quality
melons.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                parish office of the Louisianauntyality         
-End-
-Title-
Collards. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1714
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1714, "Collards."
   Collard greens are low in calories and nutritious.  They're also an
important source of dietary fiber.  A member of the cabbage family,
the collard forms a large rosette of leaves -- rather than a head -- as
the edible portion.
   Collards will grow on a wide range of soils, but they grow best in
well-drained soils where adequate moisture is provided by rainfall or
irrigation.  The plant is a heavy feeder, often growing two or three
feet tall.
   Collards can withstand a greater range of temperature than most
other vegetables grown in the South.  If the temperature drops
gradually for several days, collards can withstand temperatures as low
as 15 degrees Fahrenheit.
   These varieties grow well in Louisiana:  Vates, Georgia and Morris
Heading.  A small packet, or 1/16 ounce of seed, is enough to plant a
row 100 feet long.  Collards can be planted beginning in March and
through the summer into fall -- until about six to eight weeks before
the first frost.  Several days before you plan to plant, apply three to
four pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 8-24-24 for each 100 feet
of row.
   Collards can be seeded directly in the garden or transplanted from
a plant bed.  When seeding, plant the seed about one-fourth inch deep
and about one inch apart.  Seedlings should appear in about five days.
When plants are six to eight inches tall, thin them to six, twelve or
eighteen inches apart, depending upon how they will be harvested.
   Sidedress with ammonium nitrate about one month after
transplanting.  The proper rate for sidedressing is one pound per 100
feet of row.
 
You can harvest collards in several ways.  The entire young plant   0.o         
may be cut off at ground level.  Or, you can cut only the top part of
the mature plant.  Or, the bottom leaves may be broken off the plant
periodically, leaving the bud to produce more leaves.  Collards can be
harvested 12 months of the year, but generally, the flavor improves as
the weather becomes colder.  The leaves stay tender and edible for
several days after they reach maturity.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Growing Sweet Corn. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1715
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1715, "Growing Sweet Corn."
   Sweet corn is a cool season vegetable, but it can be planted a
little earlier than other cool season vegetables because it can survive
a light frost.  In the New Orleans area, planting can begin in
February and continue until May.  Sweet corn planted later than
April will not do well because of insect and disease pests that will
affect its growing.  Sweet corn is among the cool season vegetables
that should not be replanted in the fall because of pest problems.
   All the soils in the New Orleans area are excellent for growing
sweet corn.  The clay soils and the sandy soils should have plenty of
leaves or compost worked into them.  Loosen the soil as deep as a
shovel will go--from 8 to 10 inches.  Add four inches of leaves or
compost, then mix well.  Make sure there are no clumps in the soil.
Dig the soil when it is moist, not wet or dry.  Put one handful or one
cup of 8-8-8 where the each row will be.  Use one handful for 8 feet
of row.  Make raised beds so the 8-8-8 is under them.
   Plant seeds one-half inch deep and 10 inches apart on the rows.
Plant several short rows side by side instead of one long row.  Ears
will be pollinated better this way.  If you plant one long row, many
ears will be flat or empty on one side.  Side dress the corn with more
fertilizer when it is about one foot high and again when it is about
three feet high.
   You should flood the middles with water any week it doesn't rain.
If you have to use a sprinkler to water, do it in the morning so
plants will dry quickly.  Water the corn until the ground is wet 6 to 8
inches deep.  Good moisture is important, especially when silk is
emerging. 
Harvest sweet corn while the kernels have a milky juice inside                  
when you crush them with a fingernail.  Another way to tell whether
corn may be ready is called the "50 percent silk day."  In this method,
you must check plants daily.  When half the ears have tiny bits of
silk showing, mark the calendar and expect to harvest the crop 21
days later.  It's important to harvest sweet corn at the right time and
cook it as soon as possible after picking.  Once corn is picked, the
sugar in the corn begins to turn to starch, robbing it of its sweet
taste.  Try to cook sweet corn no later than 30 minutes after it is
picked.
   Varieties that do well in Louisiana, in order of maturity, are:
Seneca Star, Sundance, Aztec, Bellringer, Summer Sweets, Florida,
Staysweet, Sweet Time, Sugar Loaf, Kandy Korn, Target A, Merit,
Jubilee, Comet, Lightning, Silver Queen, Gold Queen and Seneca
Sentry.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Sweet Corn in the Home Garden," call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                                
                                he Louisiana Cooperative Extensionseand         
-End-
-Title-
Growing Cucumbers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1716
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1716, "Growing Cucumbers."
   Cucumbers are warm season vegetables that can be grown in the
spring, summer and fall.  Plant seeds after the danger of frost has
passed -- about March 15 in New Orleans.  Cucumbers can be planted
through early September.
   Cucumbers will grow and produce well on just about any soil, but
loose, rich soils are best.  All soils in the New Orleans area are good
for growing cucumbers, but the clay and sandy soils should have
plenty of leaves worked into them for best results with cucumbers and
other crops.
   Loosen the soil with a shovel, and dig as deeply as the shovel will
go.  Add several inches of leaves or compost, then mix well, making
sure no clumps remain.  Work the soil when it's moist, not dry or wet.
Use one handful or one-half cup of 8-8-8 fertilizer for every 10 feet
of row.  Plant on raised beds. Beds should be either three feet to four
feet apart.
   Because cucumbers form vines that run along the ground, they need
more space than many other vegetables.  However, cucumbers can be
grown successfully on a fence or trellis.  You'll have to help them get
attached to the support, but once they're attached they will intertwine
and hold themselves up.  Trellising cucumbers can actually increase
yield and quality over those grown in the ground.
   To plant cucumbers, put two or three seeds in hills 12 inches apart.
As the plants come up, thin them to one plant per hill.  You may
want to try some of the bush varieties sold in seed catalogs.  These
varieties don't grow more than two feet across.  
Because cucumbers must have clean rows to produce well, pull weed               
as soon as you see them.  A thick mulch of leaves will keep most
weeds down, but many gardeners like to use black plastic for mulch
because the soil warms earlier and plants bear fruit earlier.
   Cucumbers are closely related to squash, melons and gourds.  Most
varieties produce separate male and female flowers on the same plants.
Insects such as bees carry pollen from the male flowers and pollinate
the female flowers.  Because of this, you must be careful not to kill
the bees when you use chemicals to kill insects.  So, apply pesticides
late in the afternoon when bees are no longer active.
   Pick cucumbers every other day.  Pick fruit carefully by breaking
it off the vine with your thumb.  Be careful not to step on vines and
leaves.  Old cucumbers left on the vine will reduce later yields, so be
sure to pull them off and discard them.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Growing Cucumbers in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                ce of the Louisiana Cooperativee, so be         
-End-
-Title-
Growing Eggplants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1717
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1717, "Growing Eggplants."
   Eggplants are a warm-season vegetable that require more warmth
than many other vegetables grown in Louisiana.  Eggplants are
sensitive to cool temperatures and frost so, they don't perform well
when they're planted too early while temperatures are too low.  In
fact, the cool weather tends to harden and stunt the eggplants...from
which they recover very slowly.
   The best time to set out your eggplants is when the daily
temperature averages 65-to-70 degrees.  This will be late March in
South Louisiana and about a month later in North Louisiana.
   There are several varieties of eggplants available for you to grow.
They vary in the shape, size and color of the fruit.  The purple-
fruited eggplants that are most popular in Louisiana are Florida Hi
Bush, Royal Knight, Black Beauty, New Orleans Market and Classic.
The variety "green eggplant" is recommended for a green-fruited
variety.  But seed and plants for this variety are difficult to find.
Green-fruited varieties are less bitter under dry conditions than the
purple varieties.  Also, there are some white varieties available.
   Eggplants will get to be fairly large, so you will want to space the
plants about two-to-three feet apart on each row...and the rows should
be at least three feet apart.  Normally, you don't stake eggplants, but
in some cases, where the fruit load is heavy, you may need to give
the plants some support with stakes.
   As for cultivation, you will need only to do shallow cultivation to
control weeds or to work in a side-dressing of fertilizer.  The
herbicide Dacthal can be used to help control weeds in eggplants.
 
Eggplants respond well to fertilizer and organic matter, so work    tot         
plenty of organic matter into the soil before you transplant.  On soils
with medium to low fertility, apply three-to-four pounds of a complete
fertilizer, such as 8-8-8 or 8-24-24, to each 100 feet of row.  You
should do this a week or two before transplanting.  Since eggplants
will be in the garden for a long time, you will need to supply
additional fertilizer, especially nitrogen, about once a month at the
rate of a half-pound ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row.
   Your first eggplants will be ready to pick about 80-to 85 days after
transplanting if the weather is warm enough for the plants to grow as
they should.  Eggplants can be harvested any time they get to be at
least a third of their normal size.  They should be harvested before
the flesh becomes tough and the seeds begin to harden.  The fruit
should still be shiny when you pick it.
   The fruit should be cut from the stems with a sharp knife or
pruning shears so that you don't break the branches of the plant.
   If you don't intend to use the eggplant immediately after you pick
it, store it at about 45-to-50 degrees.
   For for gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Growing Eggplant in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Garlic. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1718
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1718, "Garlic."
   Garlic is one of the easiest crops you can grow.  October and
November are the months to plant garlic bulbs or cloves.
   Varieties grown in Louisiana are the Creole, Tahita, and Italian
varieties.  The Tahita variety produces the largest and mildest bulb.
The Italian is the smallest but the most pungent.  Creole is
intermediate in size and flavor.
   Prepare the rows ahead of time, and apply three to four pounds of
a complete fertilizer for each 100 feet of row.  Plant garlic cloves six
inches apart.  Two or three pounds of garlic bulbs will plant 100 feet
of row.  Place the cloves in the ground with the base pointing
downward -- just like you do for onion sets.  Plant them one to one
and one-half inches deep.
   In late February or early March, sidedress garlic with about one
pound of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row.
   Garlic will be ready to harvest in May or early June as the tops
begin to dry.  With normal production, a home garden can yield a
year's supply for the average family.
   For more garden information and suggestions call the county agent
or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                 office of the Louisiana Cooperativeetix        
-End-
-Title-
Herbs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1719
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1719, "Herbs."
   Herbs are aromatic plants used to flavor foods.  They've been used
for flavor and for medicine since ancient times.  One or more parts of
the plants can be used, including the seeds, fruit, buds, bark, leaves,
stems, or roots.  Many herbs are easy to grow because they are weeds
or weedlike in nature.
   For a small herb garden, choose a well drained area that receives
full sun most of the day.  Some species like little less sunlight.  They
include:  catnip, dill, ginger, mint, tarragon, and thyme.  Group these
plants together in partial shade.
   Prepare the soil as you would for a regular garden.  Build high
rows for good drainage.  Fertilize lightly to moderately with a
complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8.  You may use one cup of 8-8-8 for
each 30 to 40 square feet of plant bed.
   Many herbs are perennial and can survive a light frost or even
winter if they're protected.  These include:  chives, mint, thyme,
tarragon, onions, and sage.  Many more are either annuals or can be
treated as annuals and grown from seed.
   Herbs that are started easily from vegetative parts include:  chives
bulblettes, stem cuttings of thyme, runners of lemon balm, and
cuttings of rosemary, sage, and winter savory.  Mints are aggressive,
and they can be propagated easily from runners or crowns. You may
need to place mint in a barrier to keep it from spreading throughout
the garden. 
When you're planting seeds, cover them lightly with only 1/16 or                
1/8 inch of soil.  You may want to mulch plants which are developing
because many are delicate.  If you grow herbs in containers, use three
parts of garden soil and one part of compost.  Add sand if the garden
soil is heavy.  Because most herbs are grown for their oils, don't
encourage too much growth.  Excessive growth tends to dilute these
oils and make the herbs weak in taste.  So go easy on fertilizers, and
don't overwater.
   Pinching back the bushes will keep the herb plants stockier.  The
fresh, tender leaves that are at or near full maturity will have the
most oils.  So, these are the ones you should harvest.
   A plant's productive period may be extended by pinching off the
flower buds as they begin to develop if vegetative parts are to be
harvested.  Wash plant parts in cold water and dry them quickly in a
dark, airy room.  Harvest seed crops when the seeds are mature --
 usually when their color changes from green to brown or gray.
   After plant parts have been cured and dried, store them in airtight
containers and place them in a darkened cupboard.  Never store herbs
in paper containers, because the containers will absorb a lot of the
oils which contain the herbal flavor.
   Popular herbs that are easy to grow in Louisiana are:  shallots,
chives, garlic, fennel, thyme, dill, sage, rue, basil, oregano, rosemary,
tabasco pepper, parsley, and any of the mints -- including catnip,
peppermint, and spearmint.  Two native species can be found in the
wild:  sassafras and file.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a leaflet
called "Herbs for Louisiana Gardens," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Lettuce. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1721
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1721, "Lettuce."
   Although Louisiana isn't known for lettuce production, you can
grow lettuce in your home garden.  You can choose several types:
head lettuce, semi-head lettuce and leaf lettuce.  Semi-head lettuce
and leaf lettuce grow fastest and are easier to grow.
   All lettuce grows best in a good growing season, but some types
are adapted to more adverse conditions than others.  High
temperatures cause all types of lettuce to go to seed and cause head
lettuce to form a loose head and a bitter taste.
   Semi-head lettuce, in which the base of the head is compact but
the top is open, does well in our growing conditions.  Fall and spring
crops are possible.  The loose, leaf types are the most widely adapted
since they don't form a head.  They require only 50 days from
planting to harvest.
   In South Louisiana, plant lettuce seed in late September and
October for fall production and again in late December and January
for a spring crop.  Head lettuce is best grown only as a fall crop.
Recommended varieties for head lettuce are:  Great Lakes No. 659,
Minetto, Montello, Lake Superior, Imperial No. 847 and Ithaca.
Varieties of semi-head types recommended are:  Buttercrunch, Paris
Island and Summer Bibb.  Leaf types recommended for south Louisiana
are:  Slobolt, Oakleaf, Red Sails and Salad Bowl. 
All lettuce will tolerate frost and light freezes when it's young, but          
may be damaged by a frost or light freeze when near the harvest
stage.  Lettuce is sensitive to highly acid soils, so soils with a pH
below 6.0 should be limed to bring the pH above 6.0.  The fertilizer
requirement is one pound of a complete fertilizer like 8-8-8 for each
25 to 30 feet of row.  Maintain the crop's growth with a sidedressing
of fertilizer three or four weeks after transplanting.
   Lettuce seed may not germinate well at high soil temperatures, so
you might want to chill the lettuce seed in the refrigerator for a few
days before you plant in early fall.  This helps break the seed
dormancy or keeps them from being dormant.
   Plant seed directly in the row and then when they come up, thin
them to about four inches apart for leaf types and 10 to 12 inches
apart for the heading and semi-heading types.  Plants may be produced
in cups, peat pots or flats and transplanted to the garden.  Plant head
lettuce in full sun for proper head development.
   One of the biggest problems when producing head lettuce is the
failure to thin the plants to the proper spacing.  If two or more
plants are allowed to remain where only one should be, or if plants
are too close, the heads will be poorly formed and loose.
   About 80 days are required from planting until head lettuce is
ready to harvest.  The semi-heading types take about 60 to 65 days.
   You can get more information about growing lettuce and other
vegetables from the county agent in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Okra. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1723
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-tip number
1723, "Okra."
   Okra is one of the oldest and best known vegetables grown in
southern gardens.  Its popularity probably results from its use in soups
and gumbos and its ability to tolerate a wide range of soil and hot
weather conditions.
   The tough seed coat on okra slows its germination, so you may
want to soak seed overnight before planting. Warm soil is essential for
seed germination.
        Okra can be planted from early April through July.  Prepare
beds a week or two before you plant.  Apply two to three pounds of
8-8-8 or 8-24-24 fertilizer per 100 feet of row.  After harvesting the
first few pods, side-dress the row with one-half to three-fourths pint
of ammonium nitrate or an equivalent source of nitrogen 100 feet a
row.  A second side-dressing may be needed about four to six weeks
after the first one.  If one is needed, use one-half pound of
ammonium nitrate for each 100 feet of row for each side-dressing.
Okra is sensitive to high amounts of nitrogen and it will stop setting
pods if it's over-fertilized.  Be sure to withhold the side-dressing until
fruiting begins.
   Plant okra seed one-half inch deep.  Thin the plants to 12 inches
apart. Keep cultivation shallow--about one inch deep--to remove
competing weeds and to prevent injury to the shallow-growing okra
roots.  To keep old plants vigorous and more manageable, cut plants
back to 12 inches or 18 inches in mid-to-late August and side dress
them with one pound of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row. 
Okra plants that are constantly harvested and cared for will                    
continue to bear until frost.  Harvest pods every other day while they
are tender. If pods are left to mature on the plant, the plants will
stop growing.  Pods that bend without snapping are too tough to eat.
When you're harvesting pods for seed, pick them when thoroughly dry.
   Okra varieties recommended for Louisiana gardens are:  Louisiana
Green Velvet, Annie Oakley, Cajun Queen, Clemson Spineless, Emerald
and Gold Coast.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Onions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1724
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1724, "Onions."
   If you want large, juicy onions in the spring and early summer,
plant onion seed in late September through about mid-October.  Onion
sets, or transplants, can be set out from mid-December through the
end of January.
   Onion seed planted in late September and mid-October will produce
a plant that is able to withstand the winter cold.  Seed planted later
than mid-October will be more susceptible to cold damage because
they'll be in a more immature stage of development.
   Onions that are seeded at the proper time during the fall or
transplanted in mid-winter will form a bulb the following spring when
the days become longer and warmer.
   Onion seeds have a hard seed coat.  Plant them shallowly, about
one-eighth inch deep and keep the soil moist.
   You may want to cover the seed with a light weight potting soil,
compost, vermiculite or similar material.  Keep the soil moist so the
seed coat will soften and the seed will germinate.  It may take up to
two weeks for the seed to germinate.  Seeds can be drilled in the row
and then thinned to the desired three to four inches between plants.
Or, they can be planted thickly in a bed and then transplanted to a
row.
   Onions can be planted in a highly concentrated area.  In fact,
several drills of onions can be planted on one row.  About four to six
inches on all sides of an onion plant are sufficient for it to grow
normally. 
Soil on which onions are to be grown should be fertilized with                  
three to four pounds of a complete fertilizer per 100 feet of row
several days before seeding in the fall or transplanting in the winter.
As the time of the average last frost date nears in the spring,
sidedress them with about one pound of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet
of row.
   This sidedressing will encourage more leaf growth and result in
larger bulbs when bulbing begins.
   Several varieties of onions are recommended for Louisiana, but the
Red Creole is the most popular variety, probably because it keeps well
after harvest.  Other recommended varieties are:  Excel, Grano,
Crystal Wax and Burgundy, a sweet purple onion.
   To help control weeds, apply the herbicide Dacthal after planting
the seed or transplants.
   For more gardening information and suggestions call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                parish office of the Louisianantyingll.         
-End-
-Title-
Growing Peanuts. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1725
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1725, "Growing Peanuts."
   The peanut is a hot season vegetable that is easy to grow in a
home garden.  Because peanuts do best during a long, hot growing
season, plant them from April until early June.  The seeds are shelled
and planted about 1 to 1+ inches deep, with about four or five seeds
for each foot of row.
   Peanuts need a well-drained, light, sandy soil with plenty of
organic matter.  The soil should be loose, not clayish and hard.  Soils
in the New Orleans area are excellent for peanut production, but they
can be improved by adding leaves, compost or well-rotted manure.  On
heavy, clay-type soils, add plenty of sand to keep the soil from
compacting.
   Because peanuts can find enough fertilizer left over from other
crops, they can be planted in April after winter greens and you may
not have to add fertilizer.  Don't plant them after Southern peas or
beans though.   If you're planting peanuts on a new row in the
garden, put down only one-half cup or one-half handful of 8-8-8
fertilizer for each 10 feet of row.  Peanuts need calcium in the top
three to four inches of soil where pods develop.  Without calcium,
nuts will not fill out.  Gypsum (calcium sulfate) can be applied when
the peanuts flower to supply needed calcium.  Have a soil test run to
see if you need extra calcium or put down about one cup of gypsum
for each 10 feet of row.  Never put down lime without a soil test
because too much lime can make your soil too sweet for peanut
production. 
To prepare your soil for peanuts, loosen it with a shovel as deep               
as you can.  Add four inches of compost or leaves and mix well with
soil.  Make sure no clumps remain.  Work soil when it's moist, not
wet or dry.  Apply one-half handful or one-half cup of 8-8-8 fertilizer
for every 10 feet of row.  Make raised beds so the 8-8-8 is under
them.  Place beds three feet apart.  Let them settle for a week and
then plant seeds one inch deep, with about 4 seeds for each foot of
row.  Allow only two or three plants per foot to remain.
   Cultivation to control weeds should be shallow to prevent damage
to peanuts because they develop near the soil surface.  Applying one
to two inches of well-rotted compost as a mulch will help keep weeds
out, but you'll need to hand-pull any small weeds as they appear.
Leaves that have not been composted can be used as a mulch, but
they're not as good as well-rotted compost.  Don't use plastic or
newspaper mulch because the small fruit cannot go through them to
enter the soil.
   When flowers appear on the plants about six to eight weeks after
planting they are on stems above the ground.  As the flowers fade,
the stem begins to stretch downward, carrying with them part of the
flower that will become the peanut.  Don't let peanuts dry out during
flowering.  Water them weekly until the soil is soaked six to eight
inches deep.  Flooding the middles is the best way to water, but you
can use a sprinkler if you water in the morning.  If peanuts are
allowed to dry out at any time after flowering, the plants will make
fewer peanuts.  But don't overwater.  This can cause the nuts to
sprout in the ground.  Nuts will also sprout in the ground if there is
too much rain right before harvest. 
Peanuts are ready for harvest from 120 to 150 days after planting.              
As the older plants begin to yellow, they should be dug and left to
dry upside down on the row for a day or two.  If it's rainy, dry them
is an airy place out of the rain.  When the nuts are dry, pull them
from the pegs and store them.  If you want to boil peanuts, do so
right after digging, before much drying occurs.
   There are four general types of peanuts:  Virginia, Runner, Spanish
and Valencia.  Virginia and Runner are bushy and have two large
seeds per pod.  Spanish and Valencia are mostly erect and have small
seeds.
   You can get more information about growing peanuts from the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Southern Peas. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1726
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1726, "Southern Peas."
   Southern peas are also called cowpeas, field peas, purple hulls and
crowders.  The crop is popular in Louisiana, perhaps because it
produces large amounts of an edible product on a fairly small space,
and it's easy to produce. Peas are high in nutrients, especially protein,
and they are easy to can or freeze.
   The southern pea group contains several types of plant, pod and
seed color characteristics.  The main ones are the blackeye types, the
purple hull types and the cream types.  Within each type, there can be
crowders.  This means simply that the seeds are crowded together in
the pod.
   Southern peas grow best in warm weather, so delay spring plantings
until the soil has warmed to 60 degrees or more for several days in a
row. Southern peas are subject to root rots in cold, wet soils.  After
the soil has warmed to a suitable temperature, you can plant through
the first week of August.  Staggered planting dates will give you a
longer harvest period.
   Southern peas have the ability to capture atmospheric nitrogen and
convert it into a form the plant can use.  Because of this ability, you
can fertilize it sparingly and with a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 8-
24-24.  Don't apply more than three pounds of a complete fertilizer
for each 100 feet of row. On highly fertile river bottom soils, you'll
need little or no fertilizer. Overfertilization will cause Southern peas
to make a lot of vine and few pods.
   Southern peas may also be grown to improve soil fertility and
structure. When peas are grown for this purpose, work the plants into
the soil when they begin to bloom.               Varieties that are
recommended for home gardens in the New Orleans area are:  Pinkeye
Purple Hull, Calhoun Purple Hull, Jackson Purple Hull, Mississippi
Purple, Mississippi Silver, Louisiana Green, Magnolia Blackeye and
Colossus.  The Mississippi Purple and Mississippi Silver are crowder
types.
   You can use Southern peas dry or fresh.  They also make an
excellent frozen or canned vegetable.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Peppers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/8/82 (Koske)
Area:  New Orleans Only

                           Tele-Tip 1728
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1728,
"Peppers."
   Peppers are a popular crop in the home garden.  They are high in
vitamin C, low in calories and are a tasty seasoning.  Because peppers
like warm soil, set out transplants about 10 days later than you set
out tomato transplants.  In New Orleans, this will be in March.  Hot
peppers like even warmer soils, so set them out a week to 10 days
later than you set out sweet peppers.
   You'll need to develop well-hilled, high rows for good drainage and
aeration.  Before planting, chop in one pound of 8-8-8 fertilizer for 25
feet of row.  Use about one-third less fertilizer for hot peppers.  To
extend the growing season, sidedress fertilizer at first fruit set and
about every four weeks thereafter.  Be careful not to over-fertilize,
especially if soil is rich.  Over-fertilizing will cause flower drop and
loss of fruit set.  Hot summer weather will cause flower drop, too,
along with the formation of small, distorted fruit.  Don't let the
peppers develop until the bush has gained some size or it may not
grow any larger.  You may need to pinch off a few of the peppers and
sidedress once...until the bush gets a little larger.
   You can harvest sweet peppers at any stage of growth.  They are
still good to eat after they turn red.  Some varieties are yellow or
golden.  Pick hot peppers when they have turned to the desired color
for that variety.  There are many good sweet peppers and good hot
peppers that come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors.
 
For sweet peppers, choose Keystone Resistant Giant, Resistant   tlor and,       
Florida Giant, Emerald Giant, Bell Boy, Yolo Wonder or the Gypsy
hybrid.  For hot peppers, choose Tabasco, Hot Banana, Spirit, Cayenne,
Chili, Jalapeno, Ancho or Goldspike.  Tabasco is the hottest.
   Insects aren't always a problem in peppers, but if your peppers are
infested with the common aphid, use malathion for control.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Plant Peppers," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
-End-
-Title-
Spring Irish Potatoes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1729
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1729, "Spring Irish Potatoes."
   Spring Irish potatoes can and should be planted anytime from the
last week in January to the end of February.  The varieties
recommended for Louisiana gardens are Red LaSoda, La Rouge, and a
white skinned variety named LaChipper.  Each of these was developed
by LSU especially for Louisiana growing conditions.
   Potatoes grow best on a well-drained soil that is rich in organic
matter.  They respond well to a generous application of fertilizer,
especially on soils that aren't very fertile.
   A good, general fertilization is about five to six pounds of a
complete fertilizer on each 100 feet of row.  A complete fertilizer is
one like 8-8-8 or 8-24-24.  After the plants get to be six to ten
inches tall you can apply what is called a "side dressing" of nitrogen.
You will want to use about one pound of ammonium nitrate on each
100 feet of row.
   When you're preparing your garden for potatoes you should build a
high bed so the water will drain well and so you will have some loose
soil for the potatoes to go in.  Build your rows about three feet apart.
   As you get ready to plant, cut your seed potatoes into pieces about
the size of an egg and be sure each piece has at least one eye.  The
eye is where the plant gets its start.
   If the temperature of your soil is below 65 degrees, hold the cut
potatoes at room temperature for three or four days.  This will
encourage wound tissue to form over the cuts and this will help
protect them from diseases after they are planted. 
When you plant the seed, space them about 12 to 15 inches apart                 
in the row.  At this rate you will be able to plant a hundred foot row
with between seven and nine pounds of potatoes.  Plant the seed
pieces four or five inches deep.
   You should begin to see plants break through the soil in three or
four weeks and then in about 90 to 110 days from the time you
planted the seed you should be able to dig your potatoes.  As the
potatoes grow, avoid deep cultivation around them because you could
easily damage your potatoes.
   As the plants approach maturity, their leaves will turn yellow and
die.  Another sign off maturity is what's called the "setting of the
skin"...that is, the skin of the potatoes doesn't slip when you rub it
with your thumb.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Grow Irish Potatoes in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                ce of the Louisiana Cooperativetheb it          
-End-
-Title-
Sweet Potatoes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1731
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1731, "Sweet Potatoes."
   The sweet potato, or yam, is a popular vegetable...especially in the
South.  Sweet potato plants grow best on coarse soil of low to medium
fertility. Soils that are too fertile have a tendency to produce too
much vine and few potatoes.  Sweet potato plants can be transplanted
in Louisiana from May through June.  They will be ready to harvest
about 120 days from the time they are transplanted.
   Grow sweet potatoes on rows spaced at least 36 inches apart,
preferably wider.  Space plants within the row about 12 inches apart.
Because this crop doesn't need much fertilizer, about two or three
pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or 8-24-24 for each one-
hundred feet of row is enough.  You won't need to sidedress sweet
potatoes.
   To transplant sweet potatoes, build a high row.  About every 12
inches, make a hole in the row and place the sweet potato transplant
about three or four inches deep.  Add water to the hole and fill the
hole with soil.  Keep the soil moist, but not too wet, during the first
few weeks.  After the plants are established, they can withstand a
little drought stress.  And, while under stress, they will begin to set
the roots which will become the edible roots. After drought stress,
begin watering to encourage vine growth and the production of roots.
   As the plants mature, vines will turn yellow.  After about 100 to
110 days, begin digging a few hills to see if there is a good supply of
large roots If the crop stays in the ground, the potatoes will continue
to grow.  Be sure to harvest before frost.  A frost can damage the
vines and roots, result in poor storage and reduce the eating quality
of the crop.
 
After harvest, keep sweet potatoes in a warm moist place for about   ue         
a week.  This process helps heal areas on the root that were injured
during harvest.  It also encourages the starch in the root to become
sugar, making the sweet potatoes taste better.  The best quality sweet
potatoes are those that have been harvested at least four to six weeks
   If you want to store sweet potatoes for several weeks or months,
keep them in a cool, moist place at a temperature between 50-60
degrees Fahrenheit.  Be sure not to refrigerate them and protect them
from freezing temperatures.  Properly cured and stored sweet potatoes
will keep for several months.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Grow Sweet Potatoes in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                ce of the Louisiana Cooperativetheoesse         
-End-
-Title-
Pumpkins and Winter Squash. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1732
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1732, "Pumpkins and Winter Squash."
   If you're considering winter squash or pumpkins for your home
garden, the first decision you'll need to make is whether or not
there's enough room.
   Neither fits well into the average size urban garden because the
plants become too large.
   If your decisons is to plant, then you've selected an easy to grow
crop that fairs well in a variety of soils.
   Although they're known as winter squash, this type of hard skin
squash, along with pumpkins, can be planted either in late Spring or
early Fall.  Those planted in the Spring need to be used several weeks
after picking because the quality deteriorates more quickly than those
grown in the Fall.  The late Spring planting date runs the entire
month of April, while the early Fall date lasts from July to September,
depending on the length of maturity time needed for the variety
selected.
   The pumpkin varieties recommended by the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service are Howden, Autumn Gold, Spirit, Funny Face,
Jackpot, Small Sugar and the fine quality cushaw pumpkins.  For
minature pumpkins, select Jack-be-Little or Munchkin varieties.
   Pumpkins and winter squash prefer loose, well-drained organic soil,
however they fare well in almost any soil that is re-worked with
compost and fertilizer.  For sandy or clayish soil, dig the beds to the
depth of your shovel blade, break up all clumps of dirt and mix four
inches of compost into the soil. 
Spacing between hills and rows will depend on the type of plant                 
selected.  Bush varieties are popular for smaller gardens because they
require less space than vine plants.  Three feet is the number to
remember when you're planting bush varieties.  Allow three feet
between rows and plant two or three seed in hills spaced three feet
apart.  Add a handful of 8-8-8 fertilizer for every 10 feet of row.
   For vine plants, use beds six feet wide, plant 2 or 3 seed in hills
four feet apart and use a cup or handful of 8-8-8 fertilizer for every
10 feet of row.  Side-dress with the same fertilizer when the bush
plants reach a foot in height and when the vine variety lays down and
begins to run.
   Although pumpkins and winter squash can be harvested while tender
and cooked like summer squash, it's best if they're allowed to mature
to a tough skin on the vine.  A harder skin will allow the fruit to
store better.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Squash and Pumpkins in the Home Garden," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Radishes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1733
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1733, "Radishes."
   Radishes are easy to grow.  They're productive, they grow quickly
in cool weather and they can be ready to eat only 30 days after you
plant them.  Radishes are excellent for an intermediate crop.  Grow
them in the fall and again in early spring.
   You can choose from many varieties.  Radishes come in all shapes,
sizes, and colors.  Some are round and some are long, like icicles.
The "winter" type radishes are usually quite large and have a long
growing season through the cold, winter months.  Popular radish
varieties for Louisiana include Summer Cross, Champion, Sparkler,
White Icicle, Scarlet Globe and Scarlet Turnip White Tip.
   In the New Orleans Area, you can plant radishes from October
through February.  Radishes will get hot and stringy when they're old
and when they're grown in hot weather.
   For high quality radishes, work the soil six to eight inches deep.
Make sure the seed bed is relatively free from stones, clods and other
debris.  Don't use too much compost.  Fresh manure, in particular, will
cause your radishes to scab and be of poor quality
   Work one pound of a complete fertilizer, such as 8-24-24, into each
20 feet of row.  Or use 8-8-8 fertilizer.  If the soil doesn't drain
well, build high rows to improve drainage.  Choose an area that gets
full sun, if possible, and plant the seeds about one-fourth inch deep.
 
One ounce of radish seed contains about 2,000 seed and will plant a   l         
row from 80 to 100 feet long.  After the plants come up, thin them so
that they're about one inch apart.  Be careful not to disturb the root
system of adjacent plants.
   Most gardeners like to have a continuous supply of radishes during
the season rather than one large harvest.  To accomplish this, you
need to plant a few feet of row at a time...one or two weeks
apart...during the growing season.
   Water the radishes or they will stop growing.  If aphids or plant
lice appear, control them with malathion sprays.  Harvest radishes
when they're ready...before they get hot.  They will keep for quite a
while in the crisper of the your refrigerator.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Shallots. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1735
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1735, "Shallots."
   If you'd like to have a supply of green onions almost year round,
grow shallots in your garden.  Shallots, a member of the onion family,
have the ability of dividing into a clump of several plants from one
bulb or set.
   For fall planting, use the dry sets.  These are generally available
at local garden centers or seed stores.  Plant the dry sets in August
and September.  They'll be ready to harvest in 50 to 60 days.  Dry
sets can be planted at any time from August through April, however.
   Before planting, fertilize the rows at the rate of 3 to 4 pounds
with a complete fertilizer, such as 8-8-8, per 100 feet of row.
Sidedress with one-half pound of ammonium nitrate when the plants
are about six inches tall.
   Space shallots about six to eight inches apart within the row, and
plant the dry bulbs one inch deep.  Keep the soil moist to encourage
sprouting.
   To harvest shallots, you may cut the green shoots or leaves off and
use them, or you may pull the entire plant.  When the green leaves
are cut, new growth will start and be ready to harvest again in
several weeks.
   If the entire clump is harvested, you need to replant several of the
individual plants.  They will divide and make more plants.  This will
continue all winter and spring, so you'll have shallots into late spring.
   As the days become longer and warmer, the bulbs will swell.  Then
the tops will turn brown and die.  After the tops have died down
completely, dig the clumps of bulbs and let them dry.  Store them in a
dry place so you can plant them next fall.  The Summergreen variety,
however, will remain green and multiply all summer, making shallots
available all year.                              Several varieties are
available, but the most popular variety in Louisiana is Bonheur.
   For more gardening information and suggestions call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension service.

-End-
-Title-
Vegetable Soybeans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1736
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1736, "Vegetable Soybeans."
   Rising food prices have fostered a lot of interest in soybeans.
Soybeans are high in protein, minerals and vitamins, so they can be
substituted in part for higher priced meats and fish.  Whole soybeans
have a high oil content, but it is mostly removed in the manufacturing
process for soybean products.
   Soybeans are easy to grow.  Insect and disease problems are seldom
severe.  Grow soybeans where you've had success with snap beans and
sweet corn.  You'll be able to grow both field and vegetable varieties,
but green vegetable varieties are preferred because of their larger
seed size, their tenderness and flavor.
   Most seed catalogs feature vegetable soybean seed in packet sizes
for home gardeners.  Available varieties will include Disoy, Kanrich,
Verde and others.  Kanrich and Verde are particularly good as fresh
green vegetables.
   Soybeans prefer sandy loam soils, but they can be grown on heavier
textured soils if drainage is adequate.  Soil pH should be 6.0 to 7.0.
A moderately fertile soil is best.  Too much nitrogen may delay pod
formation.  In non-manured gardens, use about a pound of 6-24-24
fertilizer for 100 feet of row.  Apply the fertilizer evenly down the
center of the row and work it into the soil.  Overfertilization will
cause blossoms to drop before fruit is set.
   Plant the crop in rows 28 to 32 inches apart.  Space seed four to
five inches apart in the row and plant them one inch deep.  For a
succession of crops, plant soybeans at 10-day intervals beginning in
April and continuing through June.  Fresh green beans should be ready
for eating about two months after seeding. 
Control weeds by cultivating shallowly soon after seedlings emerge.             
Continue cultivation throughout the growing season if necessary.
Insect and disease problems will be similar to those affecting snap
beans and lima beans, so use the same control measures.  Rabbits like
soybeans, and you may need to fence them out.
   Soybeans are ready for harvest when the pods are plump and the
seeds have just reached full size, but are still completely green.  Pods
at this stage are green or just turning yellowish-green.  Don't delay
harvesting until the beans begin to dry.  This will reduce their
tenderness.  You can pick the pods in the garden or cut the plants off
and remove the pods elsewhere.
   Pods are shelled best by pouring boiling water over them or by
blanching.  Let them remain in the hot water for about five minutes,
then drain and cool.  Break the pods crosswise and squeeze the beans
out.  Cook them like you cook fresh peas or lima beans.  Soybeans do
not soften like peas or limas, however, and will retain a nutty texture.
One caution, don't eat soybeans before they're cooked, they're mildly
harmful when large amounts are eaten raw.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Profitable Soybean Production in the 80's," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                n your parish office of the Louisianare.        
-End-
-Title-
Spinach. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1737
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1737, "Spinach."
   If you like to garden year-round, plant spinach for the cold
weather months.  Plant spinach in October and you can harvest it
through the winter and into spring if it's maintained properly.
   A relative of beets and Swiss chard, spinach is a hardy, cool
season crop that can survive temperatures of 20 degree Fahrenheit
without injury.  On the other hand, high temperatures and long days
cause spinach to bolt to seed, making it less desirable.  In general, it
is a short season crop, maturing in about six to ten weeks, depending
on planting dates and climate.
   Spinach is very sensitive to strongly acid soils --- that is, soils
with a pH below 5.5  On strongly acid soils, it will be stunted and
yield little or nothing.  For satisfactory growth, add lime to the soil
to bring the pH to at least 6.0.
   Recommended varieties are:  Hybrid #7, Virginia Savoy Hybrid,
Broadleaf Flanders and Bloomsdale.
   To fertilize spinach, apply three to four pounds of a complete
fertilizer like 8-24-24 or 8-8-8 per 100 feet of row.  Apply several
days before planting.  Sidedress with about 1/2 pound of ammonium
nitrate for each 100 feet of row about one month after planting.
   The seeding rate is about 1/4 ounce of seed for a 100 foot row.
The seedling will look like a beet when it sprouts.  Thin the plants to
about six inches apart within the row.  Plants pulled in thinning can
be used for transplanting.  If you have trouble getting spinach seed to
germinate, mix the seed with a moistened potting soil and pre-
germinate them in a can or jar for two or three days, then plant them
in the row. 
When you're harvesting spinach, cut the whole plant at the soil                 
level.  If you want a second harvest, cut the plant just above the soil
line and the plant will renew its growth.  As soon as three or four
leaves appear after the first cutting, cut the plant back again.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                parish office of the Louisianauntyrsoil         
-End-
-Title-
Summer Squash. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1738
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1738, "Summer Squash."
   Summer squash are harvested when they are young and tender.
These warm-season vegetables can be grown in the spring and early
fall.  They are easy to grow, very productive and fit well into urban
gardens.  You'll need to plant only two plants for each person in your
family.
   Most summer squash are bushy.  The yellow butter types come in
straight neck or crookneck varieties.  Recommended straight neck
varieties include Goldbar, Butterbar, Golden Girl and Slendergold.
Patty Pans are shaped like tops and have scalloped edges.
   Summer squash thrives in soil that is well drained, loose and high
in organic matter, but it will grow in almost any soil that is well
prepared.  Soils in the New Orleans area are ideal.  The clay and
sandy soils should have lots of leaves or compost worked into them to
make them loose and able to hold on to the fertilizer you apply.
Work the soil when it's moist, not wet or dry.  Be sure to break all
clumps.
   Loosen soil with a shovel and go down 8 to 10 inches.  Add a
four-inch layer of leaves, and use the shovel to mix leaves with the
soil.  Apply one cup or one handful of 8-8-8 fertilizer for every 10
feet of row.  Rows should be three feet wide.  Sidedress the plants
when they are about a foot tall for bushy types, or when they begin
to lay down and run for vining types.  Use one-half teaspoon of
ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate per plant, and water it in
well.  Sidedress again about a month later. 
Plant a few seeds every three feet on rows three feet apart.  When              
they come up, thin plants so there are only one or two plants every
three feet.  Pick fruit regularly to keep plants producing well.  Don't
wait longer than two or three days between pickings.
   Cultivate often and shallowly to control weeds.  Or, better still,
use black plastic mulch in the spring and use leaves in the fall.  Few
weeds will emerge, and you'll have less work.
   Summer squash are kin to cucumbers, watermelons and gourds.
They produce both male and female flowers on the same plant.  Honey
bees carry pollen from the male flowers to pollinate the female
flowers, so don't kill bees.  If you use Sevin to control chewing
insects, use it late in the afternoon when bees have stopped flying.
Sevin kills bees, too.  You may want to switch to Thiodan.  It kills
fewer bees but is hard to find in small packages.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Squash and Pumpkins in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Swiss Chard. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1739
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1739, "Swiss Chard."
   Swiss chard can be grown easily in most gardens.  This green, cold
season vegetable has good heat resistance, too, so it's really a year-
round vegetable.
   Seeds or young plants can be planted in the fall, early winter, late
winter and spring.  Chard will produce fresh greens even through the
summer.  It's an excellent choice for small gardens.
   The large, fleshy leaf stalks can be white or red, with broad, crisp,
green leaf blades.  The leaf blades can be cooked like spinach or
other greens, and the midribs or stalks can be cooked like asparagus.
In many ways, Swiss chard is similar to Chinese cabbage.  It's an
attractive plant and can be planted in ornamental flowerbeds because
it's so pretty.  But, if you want Swiss chard, you'll have to grow it.
It's not available in most markets.
   To extend the harvest of Swiss chard, pick only the recently
matured leaves instead of the entire plant.  A combination of Swiss
chard and collards in your garden will give you greens all year.
   Soil preparation and fertilization of Swiss chard are easy.  Loosen
the soil with a shovel.  Dig 8 to 10 inches deep, or as deep as the
shovel will go.  Add a four-inch layer of leaves and mix it with the
soil, using the shovel.  Be sure to break up all clumps.  Work the soil
when it is moist, not too wet or dry.

 
Put down a handful or one cup of 8-8-8 fertilizer for each 10 feet   il,        
of row.  Put it where the rows will be and rake up the row on top of
it.  Make raised beds so that the 8-8-8 is under them.  Make rows
three feet wide.  Sidedress the plants when they are about 6 to 8
inches tall, using one-half teaspoon of ammonium nitrate or ammonium
sulfate for each plant.  Water it in well.  Sidedress regularly, about
every four to six weeks.  This will keep plants growing well for a
long time.
   Plant seeds thick, then cook the greens that you thin out.  Seeds
do best if they're planted about one-fourth to one-half inch deep,
with about 8 to 10 seeds per foot.  After thinning, the young plants
should be about 9 to 12 inches apart.  If you're setting out
transplants, space them about 9 to 12 inches apart.
   The best way to harvest Swiss chard is to "crop" it, which is
cutting off only the outer leaves about one inch above the ground
while they are young and tender.  It's best to cut chard.  Pulling the
leaves can damage the entire plant.  The entire plants are harvested
only during the thinning stage, when they're only 6 to 8 inches tall.
   Cultivate often and shallowly.  Better still, control weeds by using
mulches:  Leaves, thick layers of newspapers or other organic mulches.
If a few weeds come up, you can pull them while they're still small.
   If you're thinking of planting Swiss chard this year, consider these
varieties:  Red Mid-rib, Burgundy, Ruby, Rhubard, White Mid-rib,
Fordhook Giant, Geneve, Large White Broad-rib and Perpetual.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Tomatoes, Spring or Fall. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1741
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1741, "Tomatoes, Spring or Fall."
   Tomatoes are excellent vegetables for gardeners.  Only a few, well-
cared for plants will produce tomatoes for a long time.  You'll need
only two or three plants for each member in the family.  One plant
can produce five or six pounds of fruit.
   Tomatoes are cool season  but tender vegetables, so plant them
after danger of frost has passed -- late February in the New Orleans
area.  For a fall garden, plant the seeds or root suckers again in late
July.  A spring plant can be kept alive to bear again in the fall, but
it's better to replant in July.
   Tomatoes need a well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter.
New Orleans soils are excellent for tomato production.  The clay-type
soils and the sandy soils can be improved by adding generous amounts
of leaves, compost or well-rotted manure to them.  This organic
matter will help keep the soil loose and make it able to hold onto the
fertilizer you apply.  Also, as it breaks down, the organic matter
provides some fertilizer at a slow rate.
   Loosen the soil with a shovel.  Go as deep as the shovel will go --
 8 to 10 inches.  Add a four-inch layer of leaves, mix them with the
soil, and break up all clumps.  Work when the soil is moist, not wet
or dry.  Put down one handful or one cupful of 8-8-8 fertilizer for
each 10 feet of row.  Apply fertilizer where you will build rows.
Make raised beds so that the 8-8-8 is under them.  Plant seeds one-
half inch deep and then thin the plants so that they're spaced about
one-and-a-half to two feet apart in the row.  When the first tomatoes
begin to swell, sidedress with one teaspoon of ammonium nitrate or
ammonium sulfate per plant.  Repeat every three or four weeks.
 
If you're using transplants, set them out carefully.  If you use   es-e,        
black plastic as a mulch, just punch or cut a hole in the plastic and
set the plants in place.  Firm the soil around roots.  If the
transplants are too tall, remove the leaves from the lower one-third of
the stem and bury the stem horizonally two inches deep.
   Stake plants upright with five-or six-foot stakes while they are
still small.  Fasten the vines to the stakes by looping the vines with
cloth or cord.  Don't use string and don't bind the vines.  Prune side
branches to a height of one to two feet.  Then, let them bush.
   Water is important for tomato production.  Water your tomatoes
every five to eight days if they don't get at least an inch of rain per
week.  It's best to water by flooding the middles.  If you must water
with a sprinkler, water early in the morning so plants will dry quickly.
   Tomatoes come in several sizes, shapes and colors, depending on
the variety.  Some varieties can develop large fruit under favorable
conditions.  Others, such as the small cherry or patio tomatoes,
develop only small fruit.  These small fruited varieties set better
during the hot months.
   The best varieties for Louisiana are:  Champion, Pole King,
Fantastic, Terrific, Monte Carlo, Pelican, Better Boy, Traveler 76,
Creole, Jet Star, Supersonic B, Floralou, Floradel, Spring Giant,
Floramerica.  For canning, plant Chico III and Saladette.  All of these
varieties produce red fruit with the exception of Traveler, which
produces pink fruit.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called, "Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Tomato Leaf Roll. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/18/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1745
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1745,
"Tomato Leaf Roll."
   Tomato leaf roll is a common problem that may occur every year.
It is characterized by an upward rolling of leaflets of older leaves.
The rolled leaves are firm, leathery and almost brittle to the touch.
From 50 to 75 percent of the foliage may be affected.
   Plant growth is not affected noticeably and a normal crop of
tomatoes is produced.  The main disadvantage of plants affected by
leaf curl is that fruit are more exposed to the sun and may sunscald.
   The problem itself is physiological and scientists don't know what
causes the disorder.  Once suckering or pruning begins, the leaves
begin to curl.  Prune these plants less.  The greater the fruit load,
the more severe the problem can be.  Usually the varieties that are
not pruned, or those with light fruit load do not curl, but there are
exceptions.  To help prevent the disorder, keep up good soil moisture
in dry weather.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Greens. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1747
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1747, "Greens."
   Greens are popular vegetables for home garden.  They are easy to
grow and produce a good return for the amount of space they occupy.
Here are the greens that can be planted in the fall...mustard, collards,
spinach, kale, and turnip.
   A short, but active, growing season characterizes most greens.
Rapid growth occurs if greens have a good supply of plant nutrients
and ample moisture.
   Since each of these vegetables -- except spinach -- is small-seeded,
you will need to prepare a good seed bed to insure good contact
between the soil and the seed.  Mustard and turnip seed may be
broadcast over the bed and raked in or planted in several drills on the
row.  If plants are too crowded, thin them.  Use the thinned plants as
greens.
   Kale, which is like collards but smaller, should be spaced about six
inches apart at its final thinning.  Space spinach about about three or
four inches apart.
   Greens will grow on a fairly wide range of soil pH.  On extremely
acid soil, add enough lime to bring the pH to 6.0.  Fertilize these
crops at the rate of three or four pounds of a complete fertilizer for
each 100 feet of row on soils of medium to low fertility.
   On highly fertile soils, you may need to apply only one-half pound
of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row.  If plant leaves begin to
yellow, sidedress again with one-half pound of ammonium nitrate per
100 feet or row.
   For tender greens, harvest when the leaves are young. 
For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county                 
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Melons, How To Pick. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Koske)

Area:  State



                           Tele-Tip 1749

   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1749,
"Melons, How To Pick."

   Sometimes it's hard to decide when to harvest cantaloupes and
watermelons.  Nothing is more disappointing than to pull a melon
from a vine and find that it isn't ripe.  Once the melon is pulled
from the vine, flavor will improve little, if any.  So, to get the
greatest satisfaction from growing melons, you'll need to learn when
to harvest them.

   Here are a few things to look for.  These characteristics, plus
experience, will help you learn how to determine the maturity of
cantaloupes and watermelons.

   As cantaloupes approach maturity, the amount of corky netting
increases and the netting is not rubbed off easily.  The color under
the netting changes from green to yellow or grey.  The melon will
have a stronger odor.  The most reliable clue of ripeness is that
the stem of the cantaloupe separates easily from the fruit with
slight pressure.  If possible, don't water cantaloupes or
watermelons the last seven to ten days before you plan to harvest
them.  Withholding water right before harvest increases the sugar
content and sweetness of the melons.  Also, hope for a dry week.
   To determine ripeness in watermelons, first check size.  You'll
need to know the approximate size for the variety.  The color of the
"ground spot" or underside of the melon which rests on the ground is
the most reliable sign.  When the ground spot turns from white to
cream or light yellow, the melon is ripe.  Other tests -- such as
thumping melons or dryness of vines -- are not reliable unless
you're an expert.  If you plan to use melons at once, press them on
the side with your hand.  A sharp, cracking sound inside the melon
indicates maturity.  Ripe melons also take on a dull look, becoming
slightly rough and bumpy to the touch.

   You might keep in mind that it's almost as bad to leave the
melons on the vine too long at it is to pick them too soon.

   These clues, plus experience, will help you know when your melons
are ripe.

   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

                               
-End-
-Title-
Black Plastic Mulch. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82 (Cannon)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1752
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1752,
"Black Plastic Mulch."
   Using black plastic as a mulch in home vegetable gardens can help
cut the amount of work involved in producing vegetables.  The
strawberry growers in Louisiana were among the first farmers to begin
using black plastic as a mulch and a labor-saving device.
   Black plastic mulch offers several advantages.  First, it helps to
control weeds and grasses because it keeps sunlight from reaching
them.  It helps to conserve soil moisture, too.  It does this by
reducing the evaporation of moisture from the soil.  Black plastic
mulch also helps to conserve plant nutrients by preventing them from
leaching through the soil.  Also, good soil structure is maintained
because crusting and compacting of soil are prevented.  And, because
you don't have to cultivate close to the plants, injury to plant roots
in avoided.
   Plastic mulch also helps to prevent fruit rots on crops like
tomatoes and cucumbers whose fruit may otherwise touch the soil.
Another advantage offered by black plastic is that it absorbs heat and,
in early spring, raises the soil temperature 3 to 5 degrees.  This can
mean earlier yields in many cases.
   A disadvantage of plastic mulch is that nutgrass or coco grass will
grow right through it, leading to an even greater infestation of this
pest.
   If you plan to use black plastic mulch in your vegetable garden, be
sure rows are prepared, fertilized and moist enough for planting before
you put the plastic in place. 
The most common width of plastic mulch for home gardens is three                
feet, but it comes as wide as five feet.  To begin laying the plastic
mulch, dig a trench along each side of the row.  Roll the plastic down
the row, placing the edges of the plastic in the trench.  Place the soil
back in the trench on the edge of the plastic to hold it down.
   When you're ready to plant, cut slits or punch holes in the mulch
at the desired intervals.  Dig a hole of adequate size for transplants.
Or, if seeds are to be planted, work soil up in the opening and plant
them.
   Vegetables that have been grown successfully on black plastic
mulch are:  tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, squash, cucumbers,
watermelons, and cantaloupes.
   To add more fertilizer, especially nitrogen sidedressing, either
punch holes between the plants and place one or two teaspoons in
each hole--or sidedress in the middles of the rows, work it in lightly,
then irrigate.
   When irrigation is necessary after planting, dam up the ends of the
rows and flood the middles.  This will allow the water to soak under
the plastic.  Don't let the soil under the plastic dry out before you
decide to irrigate.  It's hard to get the soil moist again after it drys
out.  A practical way of irrigating under the plastic mulch has been
developed.  Called "trickle" irrigation, it consists of watering with a
hose in which small holes have been made.  The hose is put in place
before the plastic is secured to the rows.
   Again, much of the hard work of vegetable gardening can be
reduced by using black plastic mulch.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                he LSU Cooperative Extension Service. as        
-End-
-Title-
Building a Compost. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/29/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1753
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1753,
"Building a Compost."
   Many home gardeners in Louisiana have trouble getting the best
yields from their gardens because the soil doesn't have enough organic
matter.  The best way to improve garden soil is by using compost.
   Compost is a mixture of soil and partly decayed organic matter.  A
compost pile is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to increase
garden production.  A home compost pile is also a handy place to
dispose of garden waste, vegetable tops and peelings, grass clippings
and any other plant matter that will rot quickly.  Leaves will decay
more slowly than grass clippings.
   Composted materials add a lot to the soil.  They improve soil
workability, provide nitrogen and other nutrients through
decomposition, and also increase the water- and nutrient-holding
capacities of the soil.  It's best to start your compost pile in an area
where it can be screened from view.  Attractive enclosures can be
made from old railroad ties, concrete blocks or other similar materials.
   If you build the compost pile near trees or other woody plants with
active surface feeding roots, place a sheet of plastic on the ground
first.  This will keep roots from coming up into the compost pile.  Lay
the plastic flat so it won't form a basin which will hold water.
   When building the pile, place the organic material in layer cake
fashion.  On each six-inch layer, sprinkle one cup of fertilizer or a
bucket of manure on a 3 feet by 5 feet area.  Include a few shovelsful
of garden soil to keep the material in place and to add microorganisms
which will help decompose the material.  Add a little water if the pile
is too dry.  Add more layers in this manner until the pile is three
feet high. 
To hasten composting, shred the materials and keep the pile moist.              
You may want to indent the top of the pile so it will catch water.  In
dry spells, add water to help break down the material.  Turn the pile
monthly in warm weather.  Your compost pile should be ready to use
in three to six months.
   Don't add diseased plants to the pile.  You'll only spread the
disease to other plants.  Don't use weeds that have gone to seed
either.
   Once the compost is ready, you can use it as a surface mulch.
Apply the finished material in layers two to four inches deep.  It will
help control weeds and conserve moisture and prevent soil crusting.
   To condition soil, mix compost into the soil before planting.  Used
this way, compost benefits all plants.  Mixing compost into the soil
improves soil structure, aeration and drainage.  It's inexpensive to
make and provides a natural, long-lasting source of plant nutrients.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                he LSU Cooperative Extension Service.dl         
-End-
-Title-
Coldframes and Hotbeds. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/26/82 (Koske)
Area:  State
                           Tele-Tip 1755
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1755,
"Coldframes and Hotbeds."
   Hotbeds and coldframes are like miniature greenhouses and they're
great for starting plants early or for hardening off plants before
setting them in the field or garden.
   When building hotbeds or coldframes, face them toward the south
for the best exposure to the light and warmth of the sun.  A
windbreak on the north side will make the bed easier to heat.  A
hedge row or a building can serve as a windbreak.  Choose a site
that is well drained and not subject to flooding.  Mulching around the
frame will help to insulate it from the cold.
   Hotbeds and coldframes are different.  Coldframes have no source
of heat except the sun.  Hotbeds may be heated with electricity or
decomposing organic matter such as barnyard manure.  Electrical
resistance wire is a common way of heating hotbeds and some will use
an incandescent light bulb.
   Hotbeds are used to start plants ahead of normal planting time.
This will allow for an earlier harvest.  Coldframes protect young,
tender plants that are transplanted into the garden from the hotbed so
they may produce an earlier harvest.  Coldframes are used to grow
out-of-season crops in the midwinter.  These include:  cabbage,
cauliflower, and broccoli.  A coldframe should be considerably larger
than hotbeds because the plants will spread out more in coldframes
and be grown to maturity.  Cover both beds with glass or clear
polyethylene.       For more gardening information and suggestions
or for free plans for building hotbeds and coldframes, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Container Vegetable Gardening. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/4/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1757
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1757,
"Container Vegetable Gardening."
   Container gardening or mini-gardening is the technique of growing
plants for vegetables in very small places.  This type gardening
doesn't require as much work as a larger garden, it's a little more
flexible in that you can move the containers from one place to
another and you can make the growing season a little longer by
moving the plants.
   The disadvantages to container gardening include a more expensive
way of taking care of the plants, more time, attention and
expertise.
   Should you decide to get into container gardening, you're
containers can be flower pots, pails, buckets, wire baskets, bushel
baskets, wooden boxes, nursery flats, window planters, washtubs,
strawberry pots, plastic bags, large food cans, or any number of
other things.
   No matter what kind of container you choose, it should have
kholes at the base or in the bottom to permit drainage of excess
water.  You should watch using dark-colored containers because they
absorb heat which could possible damage the roots.  If you do use
dark-colored pots, try painting them a lighter color or shading just
the container.
   Wooden containers may tend to rot unless you paint them.
Painting the containers with Creasote or Penta compounds will be
toxic to plant roots.  Regular, untreated house paints or copper
based preservatives will extend the life of wooden containers and
won't be harmful to the plants.
   The size of the container is important, too.  For large
vegetables like tomatoes and eggplants, you should use a five gallon
container for each plant.  You can grow this plants in two gallon
containers but you need to give the plants considerably more
attention.
 
You can use soil to grow your vegetables, but the synthetic mixes   tyl         
are much better.  The peatlite mixes containing peat and vermiculite
are excellent...they are nutrient charged, relatively sterile and pH
adjusted.  They allow the plant to get enough air and water.  You
could mix half sandy soil with half synthetic mix to improve soil
conditions.  Soils with a good bit of compost are also good for
container gardening
   Regulating how much moisture your plants get is very important.
Generally, your vegetables will need about an inch of water per week
over all the soil where the roots grow.  You can determine when to
water your plants by checking the soil down to a depth of a half-
inch.  Soil should be moist down that far and this may mean you'll
need to water some of the plants twice a day some days.
   As for fertilization, your container plants will perform best
when you use a soluble fertilizer.  You should follow the directions
on the label for the correct fertilization rates.  An example of a
soluble fertilizer may be 20-20-20 fertilizer applied once a week at
a rate of about one ounce of fertilizer in four gallons of water.
   If you decide to use a solid fertilizer such as 8-8-8...you may
try one level teaspoon of fertilizer per square foot of soil about
every three weeks.
   The kind of fertilizer you use depends on the kind of vegetable
it's put on.  Tomatoes and eggplants should have a fertilizer that's
higher in potassium than in nitrogen.  Vegetables harvested mainly
for their leaves should get a 1-1-1 ratio fertilizer or one that's a
little higher in nitrogen.
 
As I mentioned earlier, one of the big advantages of container   s atyl         
gardening is that the plants can be moved.  Plants least tolerant to
shade are fruit-bearing crops such as tomato, cucumber, squash,
pepper, etc.  The intermediate light crops are root crops such as
beets and radishes.  The crops most tolerant to shade are the leafy
crops such as greens, parsley and lettuce. However, the leafy crops
will grow best in full sun.
   Plant breeders have developed a number of dwarf or pixie hybrids
for container gardening.  These are the plants you should grow if
you can.  Small or dwarf varieties will have less of a root mass and
less of shoot mass...and this is what you want when you're growing
plants in containers.  Check some seed catalogs for these types of
plants.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county agent or
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Storing Sweet Potatoes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/19/82 (Cannon)
Area:  State
                           Tele-Tip 1758
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1758,
"Storing Sweet Potatoes."
   The two most important factors in storing sweet potatoes properly
are maintaining the right temperature and the right humidity.  Pay
close attention to these recommendations when you're storing sweet
potatoes.
   Don't wash potatoes after you dig them.  Place them in a basket or
some other container where there is good air movement.
   Store them in a warm, dark place to cure them.  Ideally the
temperature should be 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit with about 85 to 90
percent humidity. The curing process helps to heal cuts and bruises.
It also helps to change the starch in the root to sugar.  This
increases the sweetness of the potato. Potatoes will take about five to
seven days to cure when they're stored in the conditions just
described.  You can tell that they are cured when you eat them
because they will be sweeter.
   After they're cured, store the potatoes in a cool place, preferably
where the temperature will be maintained at 60 degrees Fahrenheit.  If
possible, choose a place with high humidity.  The temperature should
not be allowed to drop below about 50 degrees because if potatoes
suffer cold damage, they will rot.  Never store sweet potatoes in the
refrigerator.
   If sweet potatoes are stored properly, they will keep for several
months.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Grow Sweet Potatoes in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Garden Site Selection and Preparation. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/8/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1760
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1760,
"Garden Site Selection and Preparation."
   When you set out to select your garden site, keep in mind that
most vegetable plants need plenty of sun...so, it follows, naturally,
that you should choose a spot that gets full sun most, if not all, of
the day.  If you have no choice but to put your garden in a spot
where the sunlight is limited, the vegetables you can grow is also
limited...mainly to leafy crops and maybe a few root crops
   Even if you do find a sunny place to put your garden, there are a
few other things you will need to consider...such as physical and
chemical properties of the soil, soil acidity and soil drainage.
   First, let's talk about physical properties of soil.  If you've ever
worked up a bed for either flowers or vegetables and found that after
the first rain it looked almost the same way it did before you worked
it up...the chances are there wasn't enough organic matter in the soil
compared to the heavy clay particles.
   So, what you do in this situation is add some organic matter.  Or
you might use sand... sand will help hold some of the clay particles
apart...but it doesn't help the water holding capacity of the soil.
Organic matter seems to work better than sand because it helps get
air into the soil and it also helps moderate the temperature of the
soil.
   The ideal amount of organic matter in the soil for good gardening
is about five percent, however, many of the soils in Louisiana contain
only one percent or less.
 
Peat moss is an excellent source of organic matter, but it gets very   ervice.  
expensive when you try to put it in a large garden.  Any decomposed
plant residue or compost is also good organic matter for garden soil.
   It's not a good idea to put undecomposed vegetation in your garden
soil because this tends to use up nitrogen in soil...and this nitrogen
will be needed by the growing plants.
   Speaking of nitrogen, this is one of the three major elements
needed for good plant growth.  The other two elements are phosphorus
and potassium.  Probably, your soil will not have enough of these
elements and you will need to add fertilizer.  When you buy a
fertilizer with the numbers 8-8-8, the bag contains eight parts
nitrogen, eight parts phosphorus and eight parts potassium.  If the
numbers are 8-24-24, then there are eight parts nitrogen, twenty-four
parts phosphorus and twenty-four parts potassium.  The first number
always represents nitrogen, the second number represents phosphorus
and the third number represents potassium.  A complete fertilizer has
all three elements. Always buy your fertilizer by those three
numbers...not by some high-powered claim made by the manufacturer.
   How much fertilizer you apply and how you apply it is important.
Most gardeners tend to use far too much fertilizer and at the wrong
times.
Most crops will need from one to two pounds of a complete fertilizer
per 100 square feet of garden or thirty feet of row.  You should work
the fertilizer under the soil or into the row a week or two before you
plant. 
Now, let's talk about drainage.  Most gardeners do a pretty good                
job of providing surface drainage...but your plants can suffer from
sub-surface drainage problems, too.  You can help this problem some
by building high-ridged rows.  If your soil has under it what is call a
"hard pan," your plants are not going to do their best.  This hard pan
prevents water from moving down when it rains and it prevents
moisture from rising during dry weather.  When you're preparing your
garden, you should dig down below the hard pan and fill in with soil
that has some organic matter.
   Now, on with a discussion about soil acidity.  Most garden plants
like slightly acid soil.  If you soil is not acid enough you can make it
more acid by adding aluminum sulphate or sulphur.  Use one-half
ounce of powdered sulphur
or three ounces of aluminum sulphate per square yard of garden.  If you want
your soil to be less acid, add one-half cup of lime per square yard.
   You can get your soil tested free of charge by taking a pint of your soil
to your county agent's office.  He will send it to LSU in Baton Rouge where it
will be tested for phosphorous, potassium, calcium, magnesium and organic
matter.  And if your soil needs lime, the test will tell you how much.
   Making your soil more or less acid is called adjusting the P-H.
Adjusting the P-H won't work miracles...it only makes it easier for the plants to
use the nutrients in the soil.
   Even if you get the soil acidity perfect and you don't take care of the
physical properties of the soil, you're garden still may not perform very well.
It takes the right combination of all these things...to make a garden the best it
can be.
   For more gardening information and suggestions call the county agent or
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Hydroponics. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1761
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1761,
"Hydroponics."
   Hydroponics is a plant feeding method in which plant nutrients in
the form of soluble minerals are supplied to the plant roots in
solution. The way a plant picks up these nutrients from the solution
is, for the most part, exactly like it accumulates nutrients from the
soil.  There's one big difference though.  In soil culture, the soil
particles hold nutrients in reserve and feed them to the plants as the
plants need them.  In hydroponic culture, there is no reserve.  The
nutrient solution which bathes the roots in hydroponics is depleted of
nutrients by the plants.  The solution can be added to or changed to
maintain the best concentrations for plant growth.  Normally, it is
changed weekly.
   Hydroponics does avoid several soil problems associated with soil
texture, weeds and disease.  But, the hydroponic grower faces other
problems.  He must substitute for Mother Nature and keep in balance
all chemicals and physical conditions which surround the roots.  If he
doesn't, the plant can't get them anywhere else.
   There are several forms of hydroponic culture.  One is known as
the NFT or Nutrient Film Technique.  In this culture, the nutrient
solution forms a thin water film which bathes the roots.  Nutrients
are pumped in at one end of a trough, trickle down through the roots,
are collected, and pumped back through the bed.  Another form of
hydroponic culture is called the sand culture method.  In sand culture,
a medium-  to coarse-grained sand supports the roots in a trough or
container.  A complete nutrient solution is dripped or sprayed over
the top to filter down through the roots.  The solution may be
collected, or just enough solution may be applied to wet the root zone
thoroughly.  This process is repeated several times a day as needed.
   A third kind of hydroponic culture is called gravel culture.  Here,
pea-sized gravel supports and distributes the root system.  This coarse
gravel allows a nutrient solution to flow down a slope or to seep from
a surface drip and filter down through the roots.  When the nutrients
flow back into the container, they can be recirculated; otherwise they
are replenished weekly.
   Hydroponic systems require quality pumps, timers and valves.  The
troughs or containers must be kept sterile.  If a problem (such as
disease) gets into the system, all plants will be infected as the
solution is recirculated if recirculation is the method you choose.
   The nutrients solution itself is important.  Different plants require
different solutions.  A general solution, such as the modified
Hoagland's Solution, is good for tomatoes, cucumbers and other
fruiting crops.  Many pre-mixed complete nutrient solutions are
available.
   For hobby purposes and for beginning hydroponic growers, it's best
to start with a commercial solution and mix your own only after other
culture problems have been solved.  Mixing your own nutrient solution
can be even more expensive than buying commercial formulations
because many chemicals are expensive, especially when you buy them
in small quantities.                             All essential plant
nutrients must be accounted for in a nutrient solution.  Any
hydroponic solution must contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium,
calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, boron, zinc, copper and
molybdenum.  Lack of an element, too little of an element or too
much of an element will mean inferior or dead plants.  Commercial
solutions will include directions about applying.  Follow them closely,
but be aware that different environmental conditions, different
varieties and different seasons will create different demands.  Some
demands can't be met by one particular blend or concentration of
nutrients.
   Just remember that hydroponic culture is justifiable only where
plants must be grown without soil or for experimental and hobby
purposes.  Don't expect too much.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Mulching. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/26/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1764
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1764,
"Mulching."
   You can keep your vegetable garden producing during the humid,
hot summer months by applying a top layer of mulch.  Although a
mulch is usually applied to control weeds and conserve moisture, this
important organic material has other useful functions.  Mulch reduces
fruit rot and leaf diseases, prevents soil-crusting and can be turned
under to increase the organic composition of the soil at the end of
the growing season.
   Organic materials commonly used as mulch include hay, dried lawn
clippings, leaves, newspaper, pine needles, sawdust, bagasse, and
compost.
   You will need to take some precautions in applying some of these
mulches.  Clippings from lawns treated with herbicides should be
avoided until after the third mowing.  Clippings should also be dried
or dead to prevent them from becoming rooted in the garden.
   Use only well rotted sawdust if possible.  If fresh sawdust is
applied to beds, use 3+ pounds of ammonium nitrate per one-thousand
square feet of mulch.  This will prevent a loss of nitrogen from the
soil that is removed by organisms which decompose the sawdust.  For
a mulch to be effective in controlling weeds, it must be thick enough
to block light and keep weed seedlings from growing through.  Those
that do emerge are easily removed by hand.
   Mulch can also help you to cut back on you water bill.  Tests have
shown that soil moisture can be reduced as much as 70 percent by
mulching.  And, mulching will also keep rain from compacting the soil
and splashing soil particles containing diseases onto the fruit and
leaves.          For more gardening information and suggestions, call
the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Nematode Control. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1765
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip 1765,
"Nematode Control."
   One of the most destructive invaders in home gardens that's often
responsible for poor yields and short production periods are nematodes.
And, out of the many different types of nematodes, the worst offender
is generally the root-knot nematode.
   Almost everything planted in home gardens is susceptible to this
pest.
Certain vegetables such as tomatoes, okra, cucumbers, and beans
appear to be very sensitive.  Others appearing to be more tolerant
include corn, peppers, and most of the leafy green plants such as
mustard and turnips.
   Severely infected plants are usually smaller and yellowish-colored.
They may lose their lower leaves and wilt, even with sufficient
moisture available in the soil.
   To determine if nematodes are the culprit, dig up some of the
plants with a shovel or hoe being careful not to break off any
secondary roots.  Carefully shake away the soil and examine the roots
closely for galls.  If you see knots or unusual swellings on the roots,
then root-knot nematodes could be your problem.
   Plants lightly infected by these nematodes can still grow, develop,
and produce if there is adequate moisture and nutrients in the soil.
Keep in mind, however, that even a small problem with root-knot
nematodes can become serious if two or three crops are planted a year
because these nematodes can multiply rapidly during a growing season.
 
There are several things you can do to control this condition.  You   ,ervice. i
can plant varieties which are more resistant to nematodes than others.
For example, resistant tomato varieties recommended by the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service include Better Boy, Celebrity, Pelican,
Terrific, Godfather and Monte Carlo. Frequent plowing or tilling
between crops can reduce nematode populations.  Always rotate
susceptible crops behind more resistant crops. You can also treat your
garden with a fumigant to kill many of the nematode parasites that
are in the soil.
   If you're having a problem with plants dying or producing low
yields, be suspicious of nematodes.  They're not always responsible for
this condition, but they're a likely suspect.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Organic Gardening. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/18/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1767
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1767,
"Organic Gardening."
   Does the phrase "organic gardening" make you think of vegetables
that are unmatched in flavor and are grown with whatever is found
around the house?  This concept simply isn't true.
   The organic gardener must be an excellent gardener to begin with
because he will not consider using many chemicals which solve
problems for other gardeners quickly and conveniently.  Organic
gardening is actually better suited for the north where freezing
temperatures and a shorter growing season limit the insect and disease
pressures that work against southern gardeners.
   Most organic gardening techniques are not revolutionary.  They're
just a combination of common sense and good gardening practices.  A
more realistic approach to natural gardening is to use good gardening
principles coupled with integrated pest management, called IPM for
short.  With IPM, poisonous chemicals are used--but only as a last
resort or to control pest levels to the point where pests don't do
excessive damage.
   All gardeners--organic or conventional--can use these eight good
gardening principles to increase their chances for success:
   1)  Choose well adaptable plant varieties.  Resistance to pests will
be more important than yield.  Early or short season varieties will be
exposed to pests for shorter periods.
   2)  Plant in the best season.  Early crops are exposed to fewer
pest pressures than are later crops.  Grow plants during the normal
season for best vigor and yields.                3)  Lay out the
garden properly.  Beds should run north and south and provide good
drainage.  Spacing plants generously can help prevent the spread of
pests.
   4)  Plan your weed control.  Plant a cover crop on fallow soil.
Work soil extra early, then cultivate as weed seeds sprout.
Recultivate once or twice more before planting.  Mulch heavily to
smother weeds and plant pests.  Use black plastic mulch for early soil
warming and pest protection.  Apply organic mulches only after the
soil has warmed.  If slugs and snails are a problem, trap them in
sunken cups of beer.  Develop all mulches from disease-free plants.
   5)  Use larger transplants to establish the crop where damping off
and seed rot are problems.
   6)  Use the LSU Soil Testing Service to check for soil fertility,
nutrient imbalance and pH problems.  In soils where you suspect
nematode problems, get an evaluation from the LSU Nematode Advisory
Service of the Plant Disease Clinic.
   7)  Rotate crops.  This minimizes insect and disease buildup.
   8)  Don't rely on companion planting for anything except a
decorative effect.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Saving Vegetable Seed. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/4/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1770
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1770,
"Saving Vegetable Seed."
   If you plan to collect and save your own vegetable seed from your
spring or fall garden, you should know that you may not be doing
yourself a favor.  A lot of things can go wrong and you may not
know that they're wrong until you've gone through the trouble of
growing your plants to maturity.
   Disease and sometimes even insects can be carried over from one
year to the next in contaminated seed.  However, if you have an
unusual seed variety...or a family hand-me-down...or if you're on an
extremely tight budget and you must save your own seed...you need to
remember several things.
   You'll have your best luck in getting true-to-type seed with self-
pollinating plants from the following groups:  tomato, lettuce, beans,
cabbage, peas, okra, pepper and eggplant.
   Other species depend on the wind or insects to carry the pollen
from the male flower to the female flower...and a cross-over in
varieties often occurs with this type pollination.  Even within the
self-pollinating types, crossing of varieties can occur...so, if you want
your seed to stay true, you'll need to plant the various varieties as
far apart as possible.
   Much of today's most desirable seed is hybridized...that is, it is the
result of crossing special varieties of a given species.  If your seed
packet has the word "hybrid" or "F-1 hybrid" associated with the
variety name of the seed, then the chances of saving true-to-type
seed are slim.  The older varieties were usually not hybrids but you
can't tell that by looking at them. 
If you do decide to save some seed, dry it well in a warm, dry                  
place.  Store it in a dry, sealed jar in the refrigerator.  You can also
freeze seed, but it's not necessary and for crops with big seed, you
may not want to do this because it may take too much room in your
freezer.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                parish office of the LSU Cooperativealso        
-End-
-Title-
Viruses of Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1772
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1772, "Viruses of Plants."
   Virus diseases are some of the most unusual and most important
problems affecting vegetables in Louisiana.  Viruses are tiny, infectious
particles thousands of times smaller than a plant cell.  They live and
reproduce only inside a living cell.  Viruses are usually carried or
transmitted from host to host by insects or mechanical means.
   Virus diseases usually disrupt the physical appearance of the plants
they attack.  They may cause stunting, mosaic, blistering or puckering
of leaves and curling.
   In Louisiana, common virus diseases on vegetables include the
tobacco mosaic virus, tomato spotted wilt--also called curly top virus--
cucumber mosaic virus and the common bean mosaic virus.
   Tobacco mosaic virus, which is transmitted by mechanical handling
of plants, may originate on infested seed or by persons using tobacco
products near their plants.  It causes a typical, light/dark green
mottled pattern in infected leaves.  Tomato spotted wilt virus, or curly
top virus, stunts plants severely.  Veins of affected plants are often
purple.  Tomato spotted wilt is transmitted by thrips.
   Cucumber mosaic virus and common bean mosaic virus are
transmitted by infested seed.  Both are spread by the feedings of
insects, especially aphids.
   Virus diseases are controlled best by purchasing high quality seed.
Don't smoke or use tobacco when you're working in the garden.
Remove and destroy any infected plants. 
For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county                 
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Watering the Garden. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1773
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1773,
"Watering the Garden."
   Your vegetable garden represents a big investment of time and
money.  Don't let a lack of water ruin this investment.  Water supply
is important to vegetable production.  Too much water will drown the
root systems and cause wilting, fruit loss or even plant death.  Too
little water will cause stunting, fruit loss or plant death.  As a
general rule, gardens need about an inch of water each week.  Larger
plants need more water than smaller plants, so you'll need to adjust
your watering to match plant growth.  Mulches conserve water...so if
your plants are mulched you won't need to water them as often.
   The frequency of watering should depend on the soil moisture level.
To test soil moisture quickly, ball a handful of soil from the root
zone.  If the soil crumbles easily when you release the pressure, the
garden needs watering.  Be sure to soak the soil to a depth of six to
eight inches when you water.  Overhead sprinklers usually don't water
adequately because the soil appears to be wet when it is wet only for
an inch or two.  This causes new roots to form only in the surface
layer of the soil and makes plants more susceptible to drought injury.
 Sprinkling also washes insecticides, fungicides and nutrients from
plant leaves.  It also causes a high moisture content around leaves and
splashes mud on the leaves.  These promote leaf diseases.
   The best method of watering is the furrow flood method of
irrigation.  Here you simply dam the aisles and slowly flood them
when water is needed.  This water will soak deeply into the soil and
will encourage growth of an extensive root system. You can apply
fertilizer in the middles and wash it down into the root zone for side
dressings. 
You may want to consider the newer concept of trickle irrigation.               
In this system, water trickles slowly from a specially built tube or
tape to the soil near the plants.  It permits a precise application of
water directly onto the plant root zone and cuts down on water use.
Also, you'll water the plants, not the weeds.  Trickle systems and kits
are available at horticultural supply centers.  The system usually
involves attaching a garden hose to a manifold from which several
watering tapes or hoses extend.  The tapes may be laid underneath the
black plastic or alongside the plant stems, either above or below the
soil.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                parish office of the LSU Cooperativeets         
-End-
-Title-
Weed Control. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1774
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1774, "Weed Control."
   Louisiana gardens are blessed with a warm, moist climate that is
ideal for plant growth.  This may mean impressive yields of produce as
well as tremendous weed problems.  Weeds like this climate, too, and
even a few will hurt vegetable production.
   First, weeds compete with vegetables for minerals and moisture.
They'll shade the crop plants, too.  Weeds can also hide or provide a
breeding place for insects and plant diseases that will spread to your
vegetables.  If weeds are let alone, they will become firmly established
and produce seeds and tubers to regenerate themselves.  Some weeds
will even poison or deform vegetables that grow near them.
   If you want to harvest top quality vegetables and have good yields,
you must get rid of weeds.  In most gardens, you can control them
with a hoe or cultivator.  Drag the hoe along the surface to snip off
weeds so you won't cut crop plant roots.  A sharp hoe is best.  Don't
hoe if the soil is too wet. You will want to hand-pull weeds in the
row which are close to plants.
   Most weeds can be kept out by mulching the crop heavily.  Use
either an organic mulch or black plastic.  For a large garden, or for a
garden with a serious weed problem, use a preplant herbicide such as
Dacthal, Dual or Treflan.  Read the label instructions carefully, and
don't apply more than is recommended.  Once you apply a herbicide,
don't disturb the soil surface.  These chemicals will work for six to
eight weeks.  Roundup is a plant poison that will kill anything it gets
on.  It can be used a week or two on growing weeds and cocograss
prior to turning the soil.
   For more gardening information and suggestions call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Why Plants Fail to Set Fruit. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1775
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1775,
"Why Plants Fail to Set Fruit."
   Many gardeners will worry about plants that fail to set fruit or
plants that produce only poorly developed fruit this summer.
   In most cases, the weather--not the gardener--is to blame.  For
fruit to set on a healthy plant, pollen must be transferred from the
anther to the stigma of the flower.  Then it must grow quickly down
into the ovary and fertilize an egg cell.  This activity results in the
formation of one seed.
   The natural development of fruit depends on seed development.
Where seed isn't developed, fruit doesn't develop.  So, a flat spot or a
crease will appear on a tomato, for example.  When you think about
all the seeds found in a tomato, you realize a lot of pollination must
occur.  Without most of this pollination, the flower may drop off, the
plant may not set fruit, or irregular-shaped fruit will develop.
   Many things affect pollination.  Unfavorable daytime
temperatures...which means temperatures above 90 degrees Fahrenheit
or below 55 degrees Fahrenheit--or nighttime temperatures in the mid-
70s may cause sterile pollen or irregular pollen growth for tomatoes
and other crops resulting in poor seed development.  High
temperatures, low light, too much nitrogen, too little potassium or
manganese, low humidity and low temperatures may cause irregular
flower or pollen development.  This may lead to a blockage of fertile
pollen transfer and irregular growth of the fruit. 
Although the tomato flower should pollinate itself within about two             
days, tomatoes and other vegetables may face hazards when trying to
pollinate in hot weather.  Plant corn in blocks or groupings.  It's
wind-pollinated, and several short rows together are better than one
or two long rows.  Grouped plants can help pollinate each other.
Squash and the vining cucurbit crops have separate male and female
blossoms.  They are pollinated by insects, so be sure you use
insecticides carefully.  Use them in the late afternoon when bee
activity is low.  Also, before you decide you have a squash pollination
problem, check to see if both male and female stalks are present.
Male stalks are the plain ones, and female stalks appear noticeably
swollen just under the flower petals.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Side dressing Vegetables. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/15/82 (Koske)
Area:  State
                           Tele-Tip 1776
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip 1776 "Side
dressing Vegetables."
   A productive vegetable crop needs a constant supply of food
because fertilizers are used up as vegetables grow.  But, to place all
fertilizer needed by a crop in one preplant application would overfeed
a young plant and underfeed a mature or fruit-bearing plant.
   The term "top-dress" usually refers to broadcast applications on
crops like small grain.  The term "side-dress" refers to fertilizer
placed two to four inches beside a row of vegetables.
   Nitrogen is highly soluble.  It's the first nutrient to be removed
from the soil, so most side-dressings need be only nitrogen using
ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate.  In sandy soils, potassium may
be removed, too.  Where this is a problem, the potassium application
can be split.  It's easiest to use a complete fertilizer like 8-8-8 as a
side-dressing.  However, this also contains phosphorous which can
build up in soils and create problems in the future.
   Plants can be grouped into three categories for side-dressing:
those that don't need a side-dressing, those that need about one-half
cup ammonium nitrate per 25 feet of row, and those that need three-
fourths cup ammonium nitrate per 25 feet of row.  When you're using
ammonium sulfate, use these same rates, but on only 20 feet of row.
   The heavy feeders which need three-fourths cup ammonium nitrate
per 25 feet of row include:  Irish potatoes, sweet corn, celery,
cabbage, collards, broccoli, and cauliflower.    Beans, peas, and
sweet potatoes usually don't need a side-dressing. Other crops need
about one-half cup ammonium nitrate or equivalent per 25 feet of row.
If you apply 8-8-8 instead of ammonium nitrate, use four times as
much.
   The time to side-dress will vary from vegetable to vegetable.
Vining crops are side-dressed once when vines begin to run but before
fruit has set. Corn is side-dressed when it is about one foot tall, then
again when it is three feet tall.  Don't side-dress tomatoes, peppers,
eggplants, and okra until the first fruits have set.  Then side-dress
every three to four weeks.  A general rule is to side-dress when
growth has slowed and plant color has lightened. Side-dressing too
often or too heavily can result in no fruit or a burned plant.
   When side-dressing, apply fertilizer several inches away from the
base of the plant.  Wash off any fertilizer touching the stems.  When
side-dressing plants grown with black plastic mulch, you may cut small
slits in the plastic and apply the fertilizer under the plastic.  Most
will side-dress in the middles of the aisles and leach this fertilizer
toward the roots under the plastic with irrigation.
   The Louisiana Vegetable Planting Guide explains how much side-
dressing each vegetable needs and when to apply it.  You can get a
copy of the planting guide free of charge from the county agent or
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Caterpillars--Tent, Webworm, Walnut. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1802
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1802, "Caterpillars--Tent, Webworm, Walnut."
   The first signs of spring in Louisiana are the webbings of the
Eastern Tent caterpillar in the crotches of cherry and willow trees.
These webbings get larger as the worms grow larger.  The Eastern
Tent caterpillar is velvety brown with a yellow line down its back and
long yellow hairs over its body.
   Its first cousin, the Forest Tent caterpillar, has a blue head and
body and a series of yellow keyhole shaped spots down its back.
Unlike the Eastern Tent, the Forest Tent builds no web, but moves
around in large masses on sweet gums and oaks.  Both of these
caterpillars live through the winter as an egg.  The eggs are laid the
summer before and look like a shiny brown crystalline mass around the
small stems of host trees.
   The Walnut caterpillar feeds on pecan, walnut and other trees
which lose their leaves in the winter.  The larva of the Walnut
caterpillar are black with gray lines and covered with a lot of long,
gray hairs.  The immature larvae are reddish-brown with yellow lines
that run the length of the body.  They usually move in mass and feed
and hang on branches in large clusters.
   The Fall Webworm has two or more generations...but the first one
usually goes unnoticed.  The later generations build large webs in
pecan and other hardwood trees.  The larva has a black head and is
pale yellow to gray or brown.  The Fall Webworn lives through the
winter as pupae in the soil with adults emerging in the spring as a
small white moth.
   You should try to control these caterpillars in the late afternoon
or early evening with insecticides Diapel, Thuracide, Bitrol, or
Malathion.  Orthene in the form of a soluble powder may be used on
ornamentals and shade trees.
 
If you want more information about controlling insects in and   onooneen        
around your home, you should call the county agent in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Fleas. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1804
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1804, "Fleas."
   You may think of fleas as problems for pets...but your pet may be
the beginning of an infestation that turns into problems for you.
   You may also think that fleas grow and multiply only indoors...but
that's not quite the case.  Under the right conditions, they reproduce
quite nicely in your yard, too.
   While we're on the subject of yards...here's how you might go
about trying to rid your yard of fleas.  The most common mistake
made in trying to get rid of fleas in the yard is putting a tablespoon
of insecticide in a gallon of water and spraying the entire area with
it.  The fact is...this just isn't enough insecticide to do any good.
   If you're using 25% Diazinon, you should mix two-and-a-half
ounces... five tablespoons...of the insecticide in three gallons of water
and spray 1,000 square feet of surface.
   If you're using Sevin, 80% sprayable, you should mix two
tablespoons of the insecticide in four gallons of water and spray it
over 100 square feet...or you can mix four tablespoons of Sevin 50%
wettable in four gallons of water and spray it over 100 square feet.
   Also, you can mix three tablespoons of 25% Dursban in three
gallons of water and spray this mixture over 1,000 square feet.
 
Many people believe that dipping their pets will control fleas.  This   r       
would be the case if all the stages of flea development were on the
pet...but they're not.  The various younger stages will be in the house
or in the yard, not on the pet...so, if you don't treat all three places
at the same time, you're likely to get another infestation in short
order.  In fact, dipping solutions are usually short-lived and the
animals are susceptible to reinfestation 3 to 5 days after they're
treated.
   Flea collars are often used to control fleas on pets.  Flea collars
work, but the one thing to remember when you're putting a flea collar
on your pet is to be sure the collar is tight enough.
   During a 24-hour period fleas move from the body of an animal to
the eyes and nose of the animal and feed on the liquids in those
places.  If the collar is too loose on the animal, fleas can get past it
without touching it or without getting enough insecticide on them to
kill them.
   If you have flea problems inside your house, you can spray with
any of several insecticides...Diazinon, Dursban or Baygon.  Twenty-five
percent Diazinon should be applied at the rate of about two-and-a-half
ounces for each gallon of water.  Spray the inside surfaces lightly.
Don't saturate carpet.  You will need to make two or three
applications ten-to-twelve days apart.
   For more information and suggestions about controlling fleas, call
the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Slugs and Snails. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1806
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1806, "Slugs and Snails."
   Slugs and snails are members of the mollusk family and can be a
problem around your home and garden because they eat plants and
leave glistening trails of slime wherever they crawl.  Also, their soft
bodies and slimy appearance make them repulsive to some people.
   Both slugs and snails have soft, fleshy, legless bodies that vary in
color from light tan to black...most are mottled with shades of gray.
Their eyes are carried on the ends of stalks or appendages on their
head.  They move slowly and grow to between one-half inch and four
inches long.
   Slugs and snails need moisture to survive.  Normally, they hide
during the day to avoid the sun.  So, you're likely to find them under
pieces of wood, pottery, bricks, plants and heavy mulches.  They're
active, generally, at night or on damp, cloudy days.
   Slugs and snails feed on leaves, flowers, stems or roots of plants
by scraping off the tissue or eating holes in the leaves or flowers.
Their slime trails remain for days on the rocks, plants and buildings
they crawl over.
   There are several ways you can control slugs and snails...trapping
and collecting them from under boards or flower pots set out to
attract them...or by collecting them from plants at night...or by using
commercially prepared baits containing Mesurol or Methaldehyde.  You
should use these baits after a rain or after you water your plants.
This is when the slugs and snails are more active.
 
One other method of controlling slugs and snails is the beer trap.   ngtr       
Put a pint jar or aluminum pie pan in the ground so that the upper
lip is flush with the soil.  Pour beer in the container until it's about
half full.  Several slices of banana may be added to make it more
attractive.  Snails and slugs really like beer and they will crawl into
the beer and drown.
   For more information about controlling slugs and snails and other
garden and household insects, call the county agent in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Aphids. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1811
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1811, "Aphids."
   Aphids are one of the most diverse groups of insects around
because they attack many different kinds of plants and they cause
several different kinds of damage.  Plants infested with aphids can be
stunted, dwarfed, deformed, infected with disease or killed.  Aphids
appear as soon as you begin to plant or as plants begin to sprout.
   Most aphids have been given names that associate them with the
plant they most often attack...for instance, the Rusty Plum aphid, the
Rosy Apple aphid, the Wooly Apple aphid, the Green Peach aphid, the
potato aphid or the cabbage aphid.  Aphids are not very large...the
smallest one is the cabbage aphid and it's about the size of bird
shot...but they go on up to the largest which is the giant bark aphid.
This is the aphid you're likely to find on oaks and other shade trees
in the fall and early spring when the weather is cool.
   Aphids can feed on any part of a plant by using its piercing,
sucking mouthparts to get the nutrients out of plants.  As the aphids
feed...they take in more than they can use and the excess is excreted
as a sticky substance called honeydew.  This honeydew causes two
problems...first, it attracts ants and wasps and second, it promotes the
growth of a fungi called sooty mold.  Sooty mold usually looks like a
black mat that may cover the entire leaf surface. 
So what do you do to get rid of aphids...and that is what you want              
to do. You can spray your vegetable plants with Malathion or Thiodan.
On your flowers and shrubs you can use Thiodan, Malathion, Cygon or
Orthene.  One warning...don't use Cygon on azaleas or crepe myrtles.
Also, don't use Sevin on aphids because most of them thrive on it.
Sevin kills their predators and may even stimulate their reproduction.
And as always, follow the directions on the label of the insecticide
you use.
   If you would like to have more information about aphids, call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                n your parish office of the Louisiana.          
-End-
-Title-
Scale Insects. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/13/82 (Pollet)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1812
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1812,
"Scale Insects."
   Scale insects represent about 75-to-80 percent of the problems that
occur on ornamental plants.  Scale insects are extremely devastating
to many plants and they multiply rapidly.  Once they infest a plant,
they're difficult to control.
   Many people believe that spraying plants for scale insects once or
twice a season is enough to control the pests.  While this is
possible...it's not very likely.  Usually, those scales which are the most
trouble produce several generations in one season.
   As an example of just how devastating scale insects can be, listen
to this example of how they can reproduce.  One female of the white
peach scale can lay about 80 eggs.  They can go through about five
generations a year.  Assuming that only half of each generation is
female...at the end of a single season one female can have offspring
that number more than 260,000.  The point is, they can get out of
hand before you know it.
   Check your plants periodically.  Look closely and pay particular
attention to anything that seems out of place on the stems, branches
and foliage.  It's important that you find scale insects and control
them before they begin to develop and reproduce.
   Here's what to look for.  Scales are tiny insects that feed with a
piercing, sucking mouthpart like aphids.  The most common one is the
mealybug.  This group of scales is very mobile and capable of walking
from one plant to another at any time.
 
However, most scales are not very mobile except when they first   ing most      
hatch from the eggs.  At the point they may be blown by the wind to
other plants or carried to other plants on the feet of birds.
   Scales usually leave a white powdery, waxy layer on the stems.
You can also recognize scales by the crusty appearance they give
various plants when there are large numbers of them on the plant.
Also, the excessive wax excretion or secretion of some scales like the
Florida wax scale make them readily noticeable.
   How you control scale insects depends on the kind of scale it is
and what kind of plant the insect in on.  Some pesticides have
warnings on the labels which advise which plants not to spray...always
read the label of pesticides before you use them.
   Insecticides known as oils may be used year round at various
dosage levels...but they do the best job in early spring and in the fall.
Oils may also be used with the insecticides Malathion, Ethion or
Diazinon.  Where you use oils, it's important that you make at least
two applications ten-to-fourteen days apart and then again occasionally
depending on the density of the scale populations.
   Other sprays available for controlling scale insects include Orthene,
Sevin, Cygon, and Dursban.  In most cases at least two applications
are required.  Remember, when you're spraying for scale insects, it's
important to know what scale is causing the injury.
   For more information about controlling scale insects and other
home and garden insects, call the county agent in your parish office
of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Disposal of Pesticide Containers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/21/82 (Grodner)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1850
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1850,
"Disposal of Pesticide Containers."
   Even after you use all of a pesticide, there still may be some of
the product left in the container.  Pesticide dusts in bags and boxes
can have residue sticking to the inside and possibly even the outside
of the package.
   Wettable powders act very much the same way...however, they
usually have a much higher concentration of active ingredients than
the dust formulations.  So, the residues of wettable powders left in
the empty container may be more toxic than most dusts.
   Also, small amounts of liquid pesticides may stay in the bottle, jug
or can after it has been emptied.  Emulsifiable concentrate, flowable,
miscible and soluble formulations may have a concentration equal to or
greater than the wettable powder formulation.
   So, always be careful to handle these pesticides in a way that you
don't come in contact with them.  It only takes a taste of a
concentrate labeled "Danger Poison" to kill the average adult.
Children have less sensitive or selective tastes and may taste a
material out of curiosity in an amount that could be fatal.  A
moderately toxic pesticide that has the word "Warning" on the label
means that a teaspoon to a tablespoon full, if swallowed, could kill an
average adult. And, as little as two tablespoons of pesticides with the
word "Caution" on the label can be fatal for an adult.
   So, rinsing containers, prompt disposal, and complete security are
important to prevent accidental contact with pesticide residues.
 
Temporary disposal of pesticide containers is limited to the storage   ,.t      
of the empty container before it is permanently disposed of.  For the
homeowner, this should be before the next trash collection or trip to
the sanitary landfill.  The temporary disposal of an empty pesticide
container requires the same storage security and cautious handling as
it would if it contained useable amounts of the product.
   When a pesticide is labeled "Keep out of reach of children," or "Do
not reuse this container for another purpose," or "Do not contaminate
the environment," this means you should follow the label directions
even when the container is empty.
   Permanent disposal of empty pesticide containers for most people
living in cities and in some rural areas is through the regular trash
collection that goes to a sanitary landfill.  Many pesticide labels
advise triple rinsing the empty container if suitable, then wrapping it
with several layers of paper and placing it in the regular trash
collection.  Use the rinse water in your sprayer.
   None of the containers that are used for small package homeowner
pesticides are suitable for reuse, return, or recycling.  Burning of
containers is not possible for most urban homeowners because of local
restrictions, and pressurized containers such as aerosol spray cans
should not be incinerated, anyway, because of the danger of explosion.

   The ultimate goal for you as a pesticide user is to dispose of these
empty pesticide containers in a manner that protects everyone from
accidental contact with a toxic chemical and to help prevent pesticide
residues from escaping into the environment.
   For more information and suggestions about the proper use of
pesticides, or for a free pamphlet called "Safe Handling, Storage and
Disposal of Pesticide containers," call the county agent in your parish
office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
How Dangerous are Pesticides? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/21/82 (Grodner)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1851
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1851,
"How Dangerous are Pesticides?"
   When a word ends with the letters i-c-i-d-e, the word means to
kill, so, a pesticide is something...usually a chemical, which kills pests.
Because pesticides are formulated to kill...they are, by their very
nature, toxic and some of them are hazardous to people.
     The term pesticide is a general category with a large number of
subcategories. For example, an insecticide kills insects, a herbicide
kills plants, a miticide kills mites, and a rodenticide kills rodents.
   There are some other chemicals which control pests and are
classified as pesticides but...they don't have the letters i-c-i-d-e at
the end of their names.  For example, a repellent will keep away
pests, an attractant will lure pests, a plant regulator stops, speeds up,
or otherwise changes normal plant processes, and desiccants and
defoliants are harvest aid chemicals used to remove or kill leaves and
stems.
   Pesticides can also be grouped according to what they do.  Many
work in more than one way.  Read the label to find out what the one
does that you plan to use.
 
Here are some of the ways pesticides work...contact pesticides kill   up,s.     
pests simply by coming in contact with them...stomach poisons kill by
being swallowed by the pest...systemics kill pests by being taken into
the blood of the animal or sap of the plant on which the pest is
feeding...translocated herbicides are pesticides which kill plants by
being absorbed by leaves, stems, or roots and moving throughout the
plant...fumigants are gases which kill when they are inhaled or
otherwise absorbed by the pests...selective pesticides are those which
kill certain kinds of plants or animals...whereas non-selective pesticides
are those which kill most plants or animals.
   You can tell how toxic a pesticide is by reading the signal word
and symbol on the label.  The signal word "Danger" means that the
product is highly toxic.  You will find the skull and crossbones and
the word "Poison" on the label of these products.  Rarely are the
pesticides in this toxicity category available for home use.
   The signal word "Warning" means that the product is moderately
toxic. The signal word "Caution" means that the pesticide has a low
toxicity or is comparatively free from danger.
   There is a statement of practical treatment or first aid directions
on the label of every pesticide container.  This statement tells you
what you should do if the pesticide is accidentally inhaled, swallowed,
or brought in contact with skin.  If the product is highly toxic there
will be a note to physicians on the product label.  The pesticide label
is the most important information you can take to the physician when
someone has been poisoned.
   The label on the pesticide container is the best source of
information about that particular product.  The directions for use will
tell you...1) the crop, animal or other item the product can be used
on...2) how the product should be applied...3) how much to use...4)
where the material should be applied...and 5) when it should be
applied.
   When you're using a pesticide, you should read the label carefully
before using it...don't use the pesticide and then read the label.
   For more information about the safe and proper use of pesticides,
call the county agent  in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pesticide Uses. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/21/82 (Grodner)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1853
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1853,
"Pesticide Uses."
   If you have identified a pest, and you know how it grows, spreads
and does its damage...then you're ready to plan how you're going to
control it.
   Using a pesticide is only one of many ways to control pests.  The
combination of several methods is basic to all pest control.  Be sure
to think about what other methods might work before you decide to
apply a pesticide.
   You can minimize pest problems a number of ways...by encouraging
the pests' natural enemies...by planting crop varieties that resist
pests...by destroying crop residues...and by clean plowing and
cultivation.
   Pest control is necessary only when the pest is causing more
damage than is reasonable to accept.  Even though a pest is present,
it may not do much harm.  In fact, it may cost more to control the
pest than would have been lost because of the pests' damage.
   Several terms are used to describe how and when to use pesticides.
For example, there are several different times when you can apply a
pesticide...especially a herbicide.  Pre-emergence herbicides are used
before the crops or weeds emerge from the ground.  Pre-emergence
may also refer to use after crops emerge...but before weeds emerge.
Pre-plant pesticides are used before the crop is planted.  And, post-
emergence pesticides are used after the crop or weeds have emerged
from the ground.
 
Also, there are several ways to apply a pesticide.  A band   ergedst-dldes.     
application is the application of the pesticide to a strip over or along
each crop row.  Broadcast is a uniform application to an entire,
specific area.  Dip application is either complete or partial immersion
of a plant, animal or object in a pesticide.  Directed application is
aiming the pesticide at a portion of a plant, animal, or structure.  A
drench application means to saturate the soil with a pesticide or oral
treatment of an animal with a liquid pesticide.  A foliar pesticide is
one which is applied to the leaves of plants.  Spot treatment is the
application of a pesticide to a small, specific area.
   Various formulations of pesticides are available and you should be
familiar with them before you use them.  Among the liquid
formulations are emulsifiable concentrates...also known as EC or E.
These formulations should be mixed with water to form an emulsion in
your spray tank.  Emulsifiable concentrates become milky looking when
mixed with water.
   Flowables...also referred to as F or L...are mixed with water to
form a suspension in your spray tank.
   Aerosols are low-concentrate solutions, usually applied as a fine
spray or mist indoors.  Some are sold in pressurized cans.
   Among the dry formulations are dusts which usually have a D on
the label.  Dusts must be used dry.
   Granular formulations are much larger than dust particles and also
should be used dry.
   A wettable powder, designated by a W or WP, looks like a dust but
is made to mix with water.  Wettable powders require continuous
agitation to maintain a suspension.
 
Soluble powders, however, will dissolve in water.  These are   t butosnges.     
designated by an S or SP on the label.
   A bait formulation is, of course, to be used dry so it will attract
the pest.
   You should always carefully read and follow the directions on
pesticide labels.
   For more information and suggestions about the safe and proper
use of pesticides, call the county agent in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Clothes Moths and Carpet Beetles. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1904
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1904, "Clothes Moths and Carpet Beetles."
   Both clothes moths and carpet beetles infest fabrics made from
animals or fabrics which have an animial origin...primarily
wool...however, they will infest furs, hides and anything else of animal
origin.  Clothes moths and carpet beetles cannot survive on synthetic
fabrics or cotton.  But, if clothes made from cotton or synthetic
fabrics have been worn and have not been cleaned, sometimes the
larvae of these insects will chew holes in the fabric feeding on the
particles of skin left on the clothing.
   The most effective means of controlling clothes moths and carpet
beetles in clothing is to prevent them from getting on the clothing in
the first place.  At the end of the winter season, you should clean
and store all woolen garments in an insect-proof storage container.
   The adults of both the clothes moth and the carpet beetle cannot
penetrate a plastic bag...a paper bag...or a cardboard box.  So, be sure
you use a container made of one of these products and one that can
be sealed.  Before you put your garments in the insect-proof
container, you should add some moth balls, moth crystals or
napthylene crystals.  These crystals don't kill the insects...but, they do
repel them and keep them from entering the storage container and
laying the eggs from which the larvae develop.  After the storage
container is sealed with the napthylene crystals or moth balls inside,
the garments should be safe from insects until fall.
 
If you find that some of your clothes already have an infestation   e,y do.     
of clothes moths or carpet beetles, the garments should be laundered
or dry cleaned.  Putting the garments out in the sun for a day will
help drive away some of the insects, but this will not kill larvae in
the clothing and these could still grow to be adult moths and beetles.
   So, you need to spray the clothes to get rid of the larvae.  A .5%
solution of Diazinon should be sprayed on the infested garments and
then the garments should be aired out in the sun for at least one day
before they're brought back inside the house.
   Also, you should spray the closet where the infestation occurred.
Spray with the same .5% solution of Diazinon or use a no-pest strip
containing the insecticide Vapona.  If you use the no-pest strip, you
should hang it up and then seal the closet for several days, allowing
the fumes from the strip to penentrate all the areas of the closet
killing the remaining larvae and adults.
   For more information and suggestions about controlling the insects
in and around your house, call the county agent in your parish office
of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pantry Pests. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1905
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1905, "Pantry Pests."
   Several kinds of insects can infest food in your pantry.  Foods
such as rice, corn, wheat, oats, barley and other grain-type foods are
quite susceptible to infestations of the Indian Meal Moth, Angoumois
grain moth, cigarette beetle, drugstore beetle, saw-tooth grain beetle,
flat grain beetle, red flour beetle, and several others.
   All of these insects are controlled the same way.  The first thing
you you should do is determine the source of the infestation.  If you
have a lot of beetles in one cabinet, it usually means that something
in that cabinet is heavily infested.  Find the source of the infestation
and remove it because it won't do any good to use an insecticide
unless you find and remove that source. Once the source of the
infestation has been removed, the problem will eliminate itself.
But to insure infestation control, it's helpful to spray the cracks in
the cabinet with a 0.5 percent solution of Diazinon or a 2 percent
solution of Malathion.
   If you need to take further precautions, there are two non-
chemical methods of controlling these pantry pests.  One method is to
place the remaining foods in the deep freeze at zero degrees
Fahrenheit for 48 hours.  The second method is to place the food in
the oven at 140 degrees for approximately 20 minutes.  Either of these
methods will reduce and kill all stages of the pantry pests.
   For more information and suggestions about controlling insects in
and around your house, call the county agent in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Roaches. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1906
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1906, "Roaches."
   The cockroach is a domestic problem in homes throughout the
United States and the world.  Cockroaches really don't discriminate
against people because of their wealth, sex, age or race.  They will
move in with anybody...some people let them stay, while other people
take steps to get rid of them.
   There are three primary cockroaches which cause problems in
homes here in Louisiana.  They are the American cockroach...the
Smoky Brown cockroach... and the German cockroach.  The American
and Smoky Brown cockroaches are large while the German cockroach
is small...about a half-inch long.
   One of the first things you need to do to get rid of the roaches in
your home is to determine what kind or kinds you have.  For example,
the Smoky Brown cockroach is primarily an outside pest which comes
in from the garbage cans, patio area, sewer area, etc.  Seldom will
you find a immature Smoky Brown cockroach in the house.  The adults
hang around the door and when it's opened they run inside.  Then,
they go back outside to lay their eggs and the immature roaches are
raised outside.
   The American cockroach and the German cockroach are inside
pests...that is...they spend their entire lives inside, but you can find
them in other places besides homes.  Again, the American cockroach is
large, whereas the German cockroach is small.
 
You control both the American and German cockroaches inside the    isinddo.     
home the same way.  Chemicals should be sprayed primarily on the
cracks and crevices of cabinets, drawers and other places where the
roaches may hide during the day.  So, when you spray, make sure that
you get to the places where the roaches hide during the daytime.
This way, when the cockroaches return to those areas the residual of
the chemical will kill them in a few hours.
   When you're spraying for cockroaches, the pressure of your sprayer
should be very low.  This low pressure produces large droplets which
run down into the cracks and get down to the areas where the
roaches might hide.  Spray in and around the cabinets...but before you
spray remove all the dishes, pots and pans, foods, and containers that
might have food in them.  Let the chemical dry for about two hours
before you put the pots, pans and foods back into the cabinets.
   You can buy the ready-mixed chemicals for controlling cockroaches
at the hardware store.  Also, you can buy a liquid concentrate which
must be mixed with water before it's applied.
   Here are some common chemicals used for controlling cockroaches:
 25% Diazinon...mix two-and-a-half to five ounces of Diazinon in each
gallon of water; 25% Dursban...mix one-and-a-quarter ounces of
Dursban in each gallon of water; 57% Malathion...mix two ounces of
Malathion in each gallon of water.  Also, Boric acid can be sprinkled
in the cabinets or placed in small containers.
To effectively control cockroaches in your home, you'll need to spray
once a month.
   For more information and suggestion about controlling the insects
around you home, call the county agent in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Silverfish and Earwigs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1908
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1908, "Silverfish and Earwigs."
   Silverfish and earwigs are completely unrelated insects...however,
they are two pests which are frequently found in houses.
   The silverfish is an insect which grows continually throughout its
life and it feeds primarily on the glue used in book bindings,
cardboard boxes and the like.  So, the places you're likely to have
problems with silverfish are around books and bookshelves.  Silverfish
are capable of destroying books and other valuable papers...so, if you
find them in you home you'll need to control them.  Any of the so-
called household insecticides are capable of killing silverfish...these
insecticides include Diazinon, Malathion, Baygon and Dursban.
   The earwig is a different problem.  It's usually a pest in newer
subdivisions where houses have been built in what was a wooded area.
Actually, it's not a case of the earwigs moving in on people, but
people moving in on the earwigs.
   Earwigs don't harm people...they don't bite, sting, or pinch.  But,
they do look bad and they have an unpleasant odor when you step on
them. Of course, they can be a nuisance when they get inside the
house.  They feed exclusively on insects and related animals.
   Your first line of defense against earwigs should be physically
keeping the insects out of your house...that is, by blocking areas
around you door, windows and other places where they might enter
the house.
 
If you see that you need to resort to chemicals, you should spray   t,eddo.     
in and around doorways.  You should use the chemical Diazinon around
the patio area mixed at at a rate of two-and-a-half to five ounces of
25% Diazinon per gallon of water.  Once the earwigs get into the
house, the only method of getting rid of them is to spray the
baseboards with the 25% Diazinon mixture.
   For more information and suggestions about controlling insects in
and around your house, call the county agent in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Poinsettias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1952
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1952, "Poinsettias."
   The poinsettias that you bought for the holidays or recieved as a
Christmas gift should keep its beauty for many weeks if you take care
of it.  There are now some excellent new varieties which have the
ability to last a long time.
   Here is what you should do to extend the beauty of your
poinsettias...put the poinsettia in the sunniest part of the room.  It
needs a minimum of 75 foot candles of natural or artificial light.
   Keep your poinsettia away from cold drafts or excessive heat from
television sets, radiators or heating ducts.
   Water your plant thoroughly whenever it's needed.  Make sure a
small amount of the water that is applied drips through the drainage
holes of the container.
   If your poinsettia came wrapped with decorative foil, punch a hole
in the foil beneath the pot so the extra water can escape.  Put the
plant in a saucer to prevent damage to furniture.
   You can help the bracts of your poinsettia keep their bright color
by keeping the temperature around the plant no warmer than 70
degrees.  Cooler temperatures are better if they don't dip below 50
degrees.
   If you are going to try to keep your poinsettia for a couple of
months, then you should fertilize it.  Use a soluble, complete
fertilizer, such as 20-20-20, twice each month.
   Finally...some good news.  Contrary to frequent reports, the bracts
and foliage of poinsettias are not poisonous.  So, enjoy your
poinsettias.
 
For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county   actseddo.     
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Advantages of Breast-feeding Your Baby. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2501
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2501, "Advantages of Breast-feeding Your Baby."
   The American Pediatric Society recommends breast-feeding for
infants because of the advantages breast-feeding offers both mother
and baby.  Because the nutrients in breast milk are easily digested and
ideally suited to a baby's needs, breast milk alone can provide every
nutrient a baby needs for the first six months of life.  Usually, no
vitamin or mineral supplements are needed, but sometimes doctors may
prescribe vitamin D for some babies, and they may urge mothers to
give their breast-fed babies fluoride supplements.
   Besides getting the nutrients they need, nursing babies also get
other health benefits.  Nursing infants have fewer gastronomical
illnesses, such as vomiting and diarrhea, and fewer respiratory
illnesses, such as colds and infections.  Breast-fed infants also have
fewer allergic reactions than do babies fed with bottles.
   The breast-fed infant is also less likely to become overweight than
an infant who is bottle-fed.  This might be because a nursing mother
can't see the amount of milk her baby is taking, so she doesn't force
the baby to take every last drop of milk as bottle-feeding mothers
sometimes do.
   Another advantage of breast-feeding is that nursing mothers don't
have to buy, prepare and sterilize bottles and formula.  Breast-feeding
also helps new mothers return to their pre-pregnancy weights because
of the extra calories needed for milk production.
   Nursing mothers also report that the time spent breast-feeding
their babies is a special time for mother and baby.  This closeness is
another advantage of breast-feeding.
   Breast-feeding gives babies a good start on life.  It can be a
wonderful experience for mother and baby.
   You can get more information about proper nutrition for infants
and children from the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Alcoholism and Nutrition. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2502
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2502, "Alcoholism and Nutrition."
   The chronic alcoholic is a high risk for developing many nutritional
deficiencies.  Alcoholics sometimes consume as much as 20 percent of
their total calories in alcohol.  A diet high in alcohol is nutritionally
inadequate in many respects.
   The nutrients most often lacking among heavy drinkers are protein,
the B vitamins (such as thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, pyridoxine and folic
acid), and minerals such as magnesium, potassium and zinc.  Alcoholics
are likely to suffer from any of three nutritional deficiencies.  These
deficiencies are polyneuropathy, which is a thiamin deficiency;
pellagra, which is a niacin deficiency; and fatty liver, which is caused
by eating too little protein.  Fatty liver can lead to cirrhosis, a liver
condition which may be fatal.
   Because the alcoholic substitutes alcohol for food, the individual
may develop one of these deficiencies.  The more calories consumed as
alcohol, the less food is eaten.  Even though an alcoholic may satisfy
his appetite with calories obtained from alcohol, he may not get
enough vitamins, minerals and proteins.  Alcohol, which is high in
calories, has no other nutrients.  One gram of alcohol supplies 7
calories, as compared to one gram of carbohydrate or protein, both of
which supply 4 calories.  One gram of fat supplies 9 calories.
   Heavy drinkers may also damage their intestinal tracts.  This
damage to the intestinal tract may lessen the body's ability to absorb
what nutrients are consumed.  
The best rule to follow in regard to alcohol is:  use moderation.               
At social events, make available non-alcoholic drinks such as fruit
juice, soft drinks, coffee or tea.  Eating food while drinking can slow
down the rate your body absorbs alcohol.  Eating can also lessen the
effects resulting from drinking on an empty stomach.
   If you're pregnant, don't drink.  No safe level of alcohol intake
during pregnancy has been established, so it's better to avoid alcohol
completely during pregnancy.  If you're taking a drug of any kind,
don't drink.  Alcohol can either increase the potency of certain drugs
or destroy the effectiveness of the drug altogether.  Either situation
can cause serious illness or death.
   For more information and suggestions about food and nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Balanced Diets for the Elderly. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2503
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2503, "Balanced Diets for the Elderly."
   Eating good food should be one of the pleasures of life at any age.
Food plays an important role in our lives and may even take on
special meanings for some us.
   The nutritional needs of the mature person and older adult aren't
much different from those of the young adult.  However, some of the
changes that develop in the older adult may affect food intake and
may also affect how the body uses food and nutrients.  The major
change in recommended daily allowances for the older adult is a
decrease in the amount of calories eaten.  The recommendations for
vitamins and minerals remain about the same for young adults and
older adults.
   Nutritional well-being may be affected by some of the body changes
that may accompany aging.  Food may not taste or smell the same as
in earlier years because of a decreased sense of taste and smell.  Poor
vision may make foods look differently.  Swallowing may be more
difficult because of a decrease in saliva or because of decreased
muscle tone.  Dental problems such as missing teeth or ill-fitting
dentures may cause chewing problems.  Constipation and indigestion
are more prevalent among older adults.  Because the body slows down,
fewer calories are needed to maintain desirable weight.  All of these
factors may affect the nutritional well-being of the elderly, as may
other health problems such as diabetes or heart disease in which salt,
sweets and fats may be restricted. 
To get enough vitamins and minerals, foods from the basic food                  
groups must be included in the diet.  These include the milk-cheese
group, the vegetable-fruit group, the bread-cereal group and the group
which includes meat, poultry, fish and beans.  A fifth group, the fats,
sweets and alcohol group, provides calories but few nutrients.  Use
fats, sweets and alcohol sparingly.
   The milk-cheese group provides calcium, protein, riboflavin and
vitamins A and D.  Choosing skim milk or low-fat milk can reduce
calories without reducing nutrients.  Eat two servings from the milk-
cheese group daily.
   The vegetable-fruit group provides vitamin C, as in citrus fruits,
melons, berries and greens, and vitamin A, as in dark green and
yellow vegetables.  The vegetable-fruit group also provides fiber to
help prevent constipation.  Eat four servings from the vegetable-fruit
group daily.
   The bread-cereal group includes whole grain and enriched breads
and cereals.  These foods are important sources of B vitamins, iron,
fiber and some protein.  Eat foods from the bread-cereal group three
or four times daily, even when you're counting calories.
   Meat, fish, poultry and beans supply protein, iron and some B
vitamins.  You need two servings from this group daily.
   Besides supplying good nutrition, eating should be fun.  If you're
alone, you may want to add pleasure to eating by sharing meals with
friends.  Eating by a window where the view is pleasing is a good
idea, as is eating in a park, on your porch or on the lawn.  Preparing
an attractive tray and listening to your favorite music is another way
to add pleasure to meal time.  Eating out occasionally, especially with
friends, is another way to enjoy meals more.
   For more information about diets and nutrition, call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Breakfast for a Good Start. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/26/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2504
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2504,
"Breakfast for a Good Start."
   The word "breakfast" means breaking or ending the fast that began
after your evening meal the day before...which may have been eight to
ten hours.  Eating breakfast can help you perform better and feel
better during your morning hours.
   Studies have shown that children who eat breakfast are more alert,
and work better in school than their classmates who don't eat
breakfast.
   Eating something for breakfast is a lot better than eating
nothing...even if you something is nothing more than a glass of juice.
But, if you want guidelines for a healthy breakfast, choose foods from
at least three of the four food groups.  Just in case you've forgotten
the four food groups...they're fruits and vegetables....breads and
cereals....milk and cheese...and meats and meat alternates.
   Now, breakfast doesn't have to be the traditional cereal and
milk...or eggs...especially if you prefer something else.  There's nothing
wrong with a hamburger for breakfast....or a sandwich made with
leftovers with a glass of milk or a glass of juice.  Breakfast is a good
meal to meet your daily need for vitamin C with a citrus fruit or
glass of citrus fruit juice.
   If you don't have time to prepare much breakfast, try keeping on
hand some foods that are quickly prepared...such as cereal and milk,
canned fruit juice, or muffins and rolls.  For those occasions when
family members are late for work or school, you can snack on the
go...with breakfasts of fresh fruits, a peanut butter sandwich, hard
cooked or deviled eggs, muffins, or cheese and crackers.
 
Remember, it's important that you eat something for breakfast to   dgoodng      
give you the energy you need for morning activities.  It's not so
important what you eat...as long as you eat foods that provide the
nutrients you need.
   For more information and suggestions about proper nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cholesterol -- Questions and Answers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2505
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2505, "Cholesterol -- Questions and Answers."
   What is cholesterol?  Cholesterol is a substance produced in the
liver which is needed to form cell membranes, nerve coatings and
certain hormones.  Our bodies usually produce enough cholesterol to
take care of these needs, but we also get cholesterol from certain
foods.  For many people, increased cholesterol intake means higher
levels of blood cholesterol.
   When cholesterol circulates in the blood, it is bound to protein.
One type of protein-bound cholesterol is called high density
lipoprotein (HDL).  High density lipoprotein, or HDL, appears to
protect against heart disease.  Another type, low density lipoprotein
(LDL), seems to be associated with an increased risk of heart disease.
Heredity plays a role in whether or not a person has more high
density or low density lipoprotein.  Levels of low density lipoprotein,
that associated with increased risk, seem to be influenced by the
amount of fat and cholesterol in the diet, but high density lipoprotein
levels do not.  Research shows that protective high density lipoprotein
levels can be increased with exercise, weight reduction and by not
smoking.
   What foods contain cholesterol?  Cholesterol is found in cell
membranes of animal foods.  Egg yolks and organ meats contain the
most cholesterol.  Meat and milk also contain some cholesterol.
Cholesterol cannot be trimmed from meat like fat can, because it is
distributed throughout.  Low-fat milk products provide lower amounts
of cholesterol than whole milk or cream. 
How does fat in the diet affect cholesterol in the blood?  Saturated            
fats, those fats found in animal products and coconut and palm oils,
may increase the amount of cholesterol in the blood, and
polyunsaturated fats, those fats found in vegetable products, may
reduce blood levels of cholesterol.
   Should you cut down on fat and cholesterol?  In countries where
people have high cholesterol and high saturated fat intakes, blood
cholesterol levels are higher and there are more cases of coronary
heart disease.
   There are individual differences, however.  Some people can eat
large amounts of cholesterol and saturated fat and still have normal
blood cholesterol levels.  Others may have high blood cholesterol
levels even though their diets are low in fat and cholesterol.  Other
risk factors such as high blood pressure, obesity, smoking and lack of
exercise are associated with heart disease in addition to blood
cholesterol levels.
   Many nutrition experts believe that for our relatively sedentary
lifestyle, it's smart to reduce dietary fat and cholesterol.  This can be
done by selecting lean cuts of meat, trimming fat, using low-fat dairy
products and using moderate amounts of fats and oils.
   You can get more information about diet and nutrition from the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Contraceptives And Nutrition. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2506
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2506, "Contraceptives And Nutrition."
   Oral contraceptives have been widely used since the sixties.  With
the widespread use of these medications, there has been much interest
in the possible effects of oral contraceptives on nutritional status.
   The oral contraceptives in common use contain varying proportions
of estrogens and progestogens.  The metabolic effects of these
medications are similar in some respects to those of pregnancy.
   Numerous studies have been done on the metabolic changes
occurring from the use of oral contraceptives, but these reports have
often been contradictory. Biochemical changes have been shown to
occur with the use of oral contraceptives, but actual clinical signs of
nutritional deficiency are rare.
   The biochemical changes are more likely to be seen in women
whose nutritional status is poor rather than in those who are well-
nourished.  Some of these changes include both increases and
decreases in body concentrations of nutrients.
   Considerable emphasis has been placed on Vitamin B-6 for oral
contraceptive users.  Alterations in the metabolism of Vitamin B-6
have been shown to occur in some women using oral contraceptives.
However, the Food and Nutrition Board of the National Research
Council did not recommend increasing the recommended dietary
allowance of Vitamin B-6 for oral contraceptive users in the most
recent revision of these guidelines.
   Evidence indicates that changes observed for Vitamin B-6 and other
nutrients in contraceptive users can be reversed by improvement of
diet alone. Routine supplements of Vitamin B-6 and other nutrients do
not seem to be justified.  Foods eaten in the recommended amounts
from the basic food groups -- including milk, meat, poultry, fish and
beans, breads and cereals, and fruits and vegetables -- will provide
the nutrients needed for good health.            For more
information about nutrition and health, contact the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Diabetic Diets. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2507
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2507, "Diabetic Diets."
   If you or a member of your family has diabetes, the responsibility
of preparing meals may, at first, seem overwhelming.  There are many
questions about diabetic diets.  One of the most commonly asked
questions is:  Why is a special diet needed for diabetes?  The answer
is that in diabetes, the body does not produce enough insulin to use
the sugar obtained from digesting food.  A diabetic diet includes well-
balanced meals and snacks which help to control blood sugar levels.
   Another common question is:  What types of foods can be eaten on
a diabetic diet?  The answer is that a variety of foods must be
included: milk, vegetables, fruits, breads, cereals, meats and fats.
Your doctor will decide on the number of calories you need and then
prescribe a diet with a certain number of calories and specific amounts
of protein, carbohydrates and fats.  A registered dietitian or diet
counselor can help you plan meals for a diabetic diet.
   People also ask questions about diabetic diet exchanges.  Foods for
the diabetic are divided into lists of similar types of foods called
exchange lists.  These exchange lists include the meat exchange, bread
exchange, milk exchange, fruit exchange, vegetable exchange and fat
exchange.  Foods within each exchange group may be substituted for
one another if the appropriate serving size is used.  For example:  In
the bread exchange, one slice of bread can be substituted for one-half
cup of grits. 
Some people wonder why diabetics must measure the amount of                     
food they eat.  Diabetics measure foods so that they meet, but do not
exceed, the prescribed number of calories and amounts of protein,
carbohydrates and fats.  The amount of food prescribed will help to
make sure that weight stays at normal levels and that blood sugar
levels are controlled.  Diabetics who take insulin must be especially
careful to eat the exact amounts of food listed on the diet.  Insulin is
prescribed to take care of a certain amount of food, and if the
correct amount of food is not eaten, an insulin reaction can occur.
   Diabetics often ask why their diets include bread, potatoes, rice
and other cereals.  Often they think they're not supposed to eat
starchy foods.  Actually, certain amounts of carbohydrates, protein and
fats are required on a diabetic diet.  In fact, most diabetic diets are
made up of about 50% carbohydrates, 20% protein and 30% fat.  The
carbohydrates on a diabetic diet are primarily complex carbohydrates,
including fruits, vegetables and whole grain breads and cereals.  These
complex carbohydrates in prescribed amounts are thought to produce
relatively small changes in blood sugar levels.
   Diabetics may want to know why they can't eat sweets and
desserts.  The answer is that simple sugars found in most desserts are
usually thought to produce rapid rises in blood sugar levels that
require large doses of insulin to control.  So, sweets are usually
restricted.  New research suggests that when diabetics eat sugar with
a meal, blood sugar levels do not change greatly.  More research is
needed, however, and diabetics should ask their doctors before
changing their diets. 
Diabetics often want to know if they can use low-calorie                        
sweeteners safely.  Two low-calorie sweeteners -- saccharin and
aspartame -- are on the market, but they shouldn't be used in
unlimited amounts by diabetics because they contain small amounts of
dextrin or lactose, which are natural sugars.  Saccharin has also been
reported to cause bladder cancer in animals.  Check with your doctor
about using low-calorie sweeteners.
   Dietetic sweets like candies, cakes, ice cream and pastries are not
recommended for diabetics because they may actually contain more
calories than products sweetened with sugar.  Many dietetic products
contain fat, flour and sweeteners that should not be eaten freely on a
diabetic diet and, when they are eaten, must be calculated in the diet.
These products are expensive, too.
   Diabetics can eat in restaurants but sometimes it's wise to check
before going out to make sure that a particular restaurant can
accommodate special requests.  Diabetics should choose lean meat,
chicken or fish which has been roasted, broiled or grilled.  Vegetables
should be unbuttered and uncreamed.  Lemon wedges can be used for
seasoning.  Fruit may take the place of dessert.
   The main objective of a diabetic diet is to maintain relatively
constant blood sugar levels, so it's not O.K. to skip a meal and eat
more at the next meal.  This can be especially dangerous for a person
on insulin.
   Actually, the entire family can benefit from a diabetic diet because
it's based on wholesome, well-balanced foods which include milk, meat,
vegetables, fruits, breads, cereals and fats.  If everyone in the family
eats the same foods as the diabetic, life is easier for the person
preparing the food and more enjoyable for the diabetic.  Diabetic
recipe books have a variety of recipes with exchanges listed for the
whole family to enjoy.
   You can get more information and suggestions about food, nutrition
and diets from the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Diet for Expectant Mothers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2508
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2508, "Diet for Expectant Mothers."
   When you first learn that you are pregnant, you begin to think
about how you will care for your baby, how you will dress it and how
you will decorate the nursery.  The most important way you can care
for your baby before it comes, however, is to take care of yourself
and eat well.
   If you're pregnant, your nutritional needs will change as your body
changes and as your baby begins to grow.  You'll need extra nutrients
to take care of your baby's needs and for your own body, especially if
you plan to nurse your infant.  Current research shows that expectant
mothers should gain about 24 to 28 pounds during the nine months of
pregnancy, so pregnancy is not the time to diet. Pregnant women
should gain about one pound a month during the first three months
and about three-fourths of a pound a week for the last six months.
   You'll need more calories while you're pregnant, but the extra
calories should come from foods such as milk and milk products, lean
meat, poultry, fish, dried peas and beans, nuts, fruits and vegetables,
and whole grain breads and cereals.  Don't get your extra calories
from high calorie, low nutrient items like candy, cake and soft drinks.
   During pregnancy, your body will need extra protein to help form
your baby's tissues.  Get this extra protein from milk, cheese, meat,
poultry, fish, dried peas and beans.  Eat at least three servings every
day of these protein-rich foods while you are pregnant. 
Vitamin and mineral needs are also greater during pregnancy.                    
Expectant mothers should be sure to eat foods rich in vitamin C and
vitamin A.  Foods rich in vitamin C include citrus fruits, greens and
tomatoes.  Foods rich in vitamin A include carrots, spinach and sweet
potatoes.
   If you are pregnant, your blood volume will increase.  To make red
blood cells for this increased blood volume, you'll need foods that are
high in iron.  Iron-containing foods include liver, red meats, dried
peas and beans, fortified breads and cereals, and dark green
vegetables.  Eat some of these foods at each meal.  Besides eating
iron-rich foods, you'll need to eat foods rich in vitamin C because
vitamin C helps your body to use iron more effectively.
   You'll need more calcium, too, because it is used to form your
baby's bones.  Many nutritionists tell expectant mothers to drink a
quart of milk a day.  Other milk products have calcium, too, and you
can use them to provide the calcium you need.  Some dark green
vegetables contain calcium, but the body isn't always able to use this
calcium effectively.
   Doctors often prescribe vitamin and mineral supplements just in
case the increased needs caused by pregnancy aren't met.
   If constipation is a problem while you are pregnant, eat more high
fiber foods such as fruits, vegetables and whole grains.  Be sure you
drink enough fluids, too, because fluids help prevent constipation.
   If you are troubled by morning sickness, nausea or heartburn, try
these hints for relief:  Eat a few dry crackers before you get out of
bed in the morning.  Eat small, frequent meals and snacks instead of
three large meals a day. Drink liquids between, rather than with,
meals.
   Expectant mothers want a healthy, happy baby, and good nutrition
will play a major part in helping babies get the best possible start in
life.
   For more information about proper nutrition, call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
-End-
-Title-
Dietary Fiber:  What is it? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2509
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2509, "Dietary Fiber:  What is it?"
   Among the U. S. Department of Agriculture Dietary Guidelines is
one which encourages the American public to eat foods with dietary
fiber.  Many people are asking:  What is dietary fiber and how do I
get it?
   Fiber is the tough plant material that can't be digested by human
digestive enzymes.  As a result, fiber is eliminated as waste material,
and is called roughage or bulk.  It includes cellulose, hemicellulose,
lignin, pectin, gum and other indigestible carbohydrates.
   There are two types of fiber, soluble and insoluble.  Soluble fiber
dissolves in water and gives either pectin -- found in many fruits --
or gum -- found in beans, oats and corn.  Insoluble fiber doesn't
dissolve in water, but instead absorbs it like a sponge.  The most
common insoluble fiber is bran, which is found in whole-grain breads
and cereals.
   Even though dietary fiber doesn't add any essential nutrients to the
body, its role in the diet is important because it provides bulk which
absorbs water in the large intestine.  This produces a large, soft stool
which moves through the digestive tract quickly and is eliminated
easily.  When the bowels move often and easily, constipation is
prevented. 
Diverticulosis, a condition in which pockets develop in the walls of            
the intestines, improves when diets are high in fiber.  A low fiber diet
will create a dry, compact stool that moves slowly through the
intestine.  The diverticuli, or pockets, may be produced because the
colon has to work hard to push the stool along.  If some of these
pockets become infected with particles of the stool, a painful
condition called diverticulitis develops.  A high fiber diet often
relieves diverticular disease. In countries where people routinely eat
many foods high in fiber, there is a much lower incidence of colon
cancer.
   Of course, diet isn't the only cause of an intestinal disease, but
there is general agreement that lack of sufficient fiber can be related
to many intestinal disorders.  Some studies have shown that high fiber
diets have improved the treatment of insulin-dependant diabetes, heart
disease and obesity.  Diets that contain excessive amounts of fiber
may have an adverse affect on mineral absorption, especially if the
overall diet isn't balanced.  High fiber diets may also mean increased
gas.  But, if the increase in fiber content isn't excessive, the benefits
will outweigh any negative points.
   For more information about diet and nutrition or for a free
pamphlet called "Dietary Fiber--Its Importance in Your Diet," call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                -30
-End-
-Title-
Differences Between Honey and Sugar. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2510
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2510, "Differences Between Honey and Sugar."
   If you're one of the many people trying to learn more about how
food affects your health, you may be asking if honey is more
nutritious than sugar.
   As far as your body is concerned, there seems to be very little
difference between the final fate of the two sweeteners.  Both honey
and table sugar are used in the body for either immediate energy or
for storage in the form of glycogen or fat.
   Honey seems to have no nutritional advantage over table sugar.
There are very small amounts of some trace minerals and vitamins in
honey that are not in table sugar, but the amounts of these minerals
and vitamins are so small they are of no significance.  For example,
one cup of honey supplies about the same amount of iron as two slices
of whole wheat bread.
   Research has shown that honey doesn't have any special health-
giving properties.  In fact, a few cases of infant botulism have been
reported due to mothers adding honey to their infants' bottles.  You
shouldn't feed honey to infants until they're at least one year old.
   Table sugar is called sucrose which, during digestion, breaks down
into two single sugars called glucose and fructose.  Honey also breaks
down into glucose and fructose, but honey produces more fructose
than glucose.
   Fructose is about twice as sweet as glucose.  So, some people
report they use less honey than table sugar to sweeten beverages
because of the honey's sweeter taste.  However, the difference in the
amounts used is normally so small that it's probably no real savings in
calories.
 
Fructose is absorbed in the body more slowly than glucose and its    ints       
first stage of metabolism doesn't require insulin....so, because of this,
at one time it was hoped that fructose would be of some advantage to
diabetics.  However, the final use of fructose by body tissues is
through the same pathway as glucose and does require insulin.
   The main treatment of non-insulin dependent diabetics is the
control of total calories and the maintenance of the ideal body weight.
Since fructose provides calories, it must be exchanged for other
calories in the diet prescription and its use must be limited.
   For more information and suggestions about nutrition and diet, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Differences in Plant and Animal Protein. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2511
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2511, "Differences in Plant and Animal Protein."
   Protein is a part of all body cells and is involved in the growth,
maintenance and repair of body tissues.  Foods containing protein
should be an important part of your diet.
   Proteins are made up of building blocks called amino acids.  There
are 22 amino acids that make up body protein.  Of these 22, nine are
essential amino acids.  The essential amino acids must enter the body
as food, because the body doesn't make enough of them to meet its
need for growth.
   For the body to use protein for building, repairing and
maintenance, all amino acids must be present in the right amounts.
Foods which contain all of the essential amino acids in the needed
amounts are called complete proteins.  Complete protein is found in
animal food sources, including meat, poultry, fish, milk and milk
products.
   The protein in many plant foods doesn't have all of the amino
acids or has inadequate amounts of some of them.  These incomplete
proteins include plant foods such as vegetables, grains, beans, peas and
nuts.  Complete proteins are considered to be higher in quality than
incomplete proteins.
   Because all incomplete proteins do not lack the same amino acids,
you can combine them in ways that will improve their quality.  In
other words, eating a food that is lacking in one amino acid with
another food that has plenty of that particular amino acid will give
you a complete protein.  The incomplete proteins will complement each
other. 
You can make these complimentary combinations by putting certain                
vegetable protein foods together or by putting a vegetable protein
with an animal protein.  Macaroni and cheese is a great example of a
combination plant and animal protein.  Vegetable proteins which can
be combined to increase protein quality include such popular foods as
beans and rice, beans and corn, or baked beans and brown bread.
This mixing and matching of foods will give you complete proteins
which are nutritious and economical.
   If you would like more information about food and nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Effective Weight Loss Diets. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2513
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2513, "Effective Weight Loss Diets."
   Americans spend millions of dollars every year in their efforts to
become attractive, healthy and slim.  Crash diets and fads are
promoted as quick reducing programs and cure-alls.  But money spent
on crash diets and fads is wasted, because little or no weight is lost.
   If you're serious about losing weight and improving your health,
follow these guidelines:
   -- Choose meals and snacks from the four basic nutritional groups
each day to meet your food needs.
   -- Select at least two milk products daily.  Milk provides protein
for building and repairing, and it provides calcium for strong bones
and teeth.  Good, low-calorie sources of calcium and protein are skim
milk, low-fat milk, cottage cheese and plain yogurt.
   -- Eat two or three small servings of lean meat, fish, poultry,
eggs, dried peas and beans daily.  These foods provide iron, which is
important for building red blood cells and protein your body needs.
   -- Eat fruits and vegetables often.  Fresh fruit or fruits canned in
their natural juice or water are especially good for dieters.  Fruits
and vegetables also provide fiber, which is important for regular
elimination.  Citrus fruits, tomatoes and raw cabbage provide vitamin
C for materials which hold body cells together.  Dark green
vegetables, such as spinach and greens, and dark yellow vegetables,
such as squash and carrots, are good sources of vitamin A.  Vitamin
A is needed for healthy skin and good night vision.  
-- Don't forget to include three or four servings of whole grain                
breads and cereals.  You need these every day, even when you are
dieting.  Whole grain breads and cereals provide B vitamins, energy
and fiber.
   Other tips that will help you be well-nourished and yet have a slim
figure include the following:
   -- Instead of eating lunch at a fast food restaurant, pack a brown
bag lunch that includes a sandwich, fresh fruit, raw vegetables and
milk.
   -- Choose snacks wisely, if you eat between meals.  Great snacks
include fresh fruits, raw vegetables, juices and skim milk.  These are
much lower in calories than cake, cookies, candy, chips and cold
drinks.  They are also more nutritious.
   -- If you're counting calories, be sure you bake, broil or boil foods
instead of frying them.
   -- Low-calorie, nutritious desserts for dieters include fruits or
custards and puddings made with skim or low-fat milk.
   -- Try an exercise program, perhaps walking.  Walking fast for one
or two miles about five times a week can help to burn up calories and
increase heart endurance.  Always check with your doctor before
beginning any exercise program.
   For more information about safe, effective weight loss programs,
call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Encouraging Your Child to Eat Properly. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/26/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2514
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2514,
"Encouraging Your Child to Eat Properly."
   Once your children form eating habits, it's very difficult to change
them.  So, it's most important that the habits they form are good
ones.
   Generally, children learn their eating habits from their parents...so,
it's important for you...as a parent...to set a good example.  If you can
eat a candy bar and a soft drink for lunch...why can't they?
   You can encourage your child to eat properly by offering a variety
of foods from each of the food groups.  Occasionally, offer new foods
and serve them more attractively than usual.
   Encouraging your child to eat properly is a good idea...but, making
a child "clean his plate" is not always the most healthy habit to
promote.  This can lead to overeating by that child and this may
cause problems later in life.  Children will generally stop eating when
they're full.
   You can help your children form good eating habits if you keep
nutritious foods available in the house.  Children like and need
snacks...so, be sure the snacks they get are nutritious.  Snacks such as
raw fruits and vegetables, unsweetened fruit juices, milk, cheese and
meats, peanut butter and crackers, and unsalted nuts and seeds are
good to keep on hand.  Popcorn, with little or no salt and fat, makes
a good substitute for chips.
   You should help your children realize that sometimes they can eat
foods that have little nutrition...such as chips and sweets...but they are
not to take the place of other more nutritious foods.
 
Encourage your children to start the day with a good nutritious   they are      
breakfast.  Studies show that children who eat breakfast are more
alert and learn better during the morning hours than those who don't
eat breakfast.  Remember that you're not limited to cereal and milk or
eggs.  Any nutritious foods that your child likes can be served for
breakfast...peanut butter on toast, cheese toast, or leftover sandwiches.
   Children who help prepare their own foods may be more interested
in eating them...so if your patience will permit...let your child help
prepare the dinner salad, or make the meatloaf, or prepare mini-pizzas
for an afternoon snack.  Again, encourage the preparation of
nutritious foods.
   For more information and suggestions about proper nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Fast Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2515
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2515, "Fast Foods."
   Consumers demand fast-food outlets, but fast food doesn't have to
be junk food.  About 140,000 fast-food outlets in the United States
account for 45 percent of the restaurants available to hungry
consumers.  Americans spend about $23 billion a year on favorites like
hamburgers, french fries, milk shakes, pizza, chicken and tacos sold by
fast-food restaurants.  They are attracted by the quick service,
relatively inexpensive prices, taste and consistency offered by fast
food-restaurants.
   Fast foods aren't necessarily junk foods.  Fast foods are full of
nutrients, but not necessarily those we want to eat in large quantities.
If you choose fast foods carefully, you don't have to let them become
a dietary danger.  It's possible to get protein, iron, certain B vitamins
and calcium from fast foods, but it's equally possible to get too much
fat, sugar and sodium and too many calories.
   A recent U. S. Department of Agriculture study found most fast-
food main dishes, french fries and sauces to be high in fat, and it
found desserts and milk shakes high in fat and sugar.  Also, these
foods lack fiber, which is an important element in a good diet.  The
fast-food chains which have added salad bars have increased the
nutritional benefits of their meals.
   The high sodium content of most fast foods can be a drawback for
people who must restrict their sodium intake.  Just one fast-food meal
can supply all the sodium a persons needs for a day.
   To enjoy fast-food meals and reduce their potential nutritional
disadvantages, follow these rules:               1.  Eat a variety of
foods instead of one favorite all the time, and add plenty of fruits,
vegetables, and whole grain and dairy products to the meals you eat at
home.
   2.  Maintain ideal body weight.  Fast foods can be high in calories,
so order the small size of french fries instead of the large, for
example, to keep the calories down.  Order small milk shakes and soft
drinks.
   3.  Try to avoid fats by doing without mayonnaise and sauces.
   4.  Eat foods with starch and fiber, such as salad vegetables.
   5.  Drink skim milk or orange juice instead of soda.

   If the fast-food outlet offers only a limited menu, it's harder to
choose foods wisely, but you can speak up and ask for the foods you'd
like to see served.  Competition between fast-food chains is getting
stronger, so many are trying harder to please health-conscious
customers.
   If enough people ask for skim milk, orange juice, unsalted french
fries, whole wheat buns, more salad bars and fresh fruit, the items
may begin to appear on menus.  Consumers are asking for more
information on nutrition, and the industry is starting to respond.
   If you would like to have more information about nutrition and the
foods which make up a healthful diet, call the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Feeding Solid Foods to Babies. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2516
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2516, "Feeding Solid Foods to Babies."
   Although many parents are eager for their babies to start eating
solid foods, most doctors advise parents not to start feeding their
babies solid foods until they are at least three months old.  Some
doctors want parents to wait until six months to start babies on
solids.
   Feeding babies solid foods before three months may result in
problems like allergic reactions or overweight.  When babies start
eating solid foods too early, they may fill up on food and not drink
enough milk.  This could mean they will grow slowly because they
aren't getting enough protein.  Breast milk or formula provides all of
the nutrients in the proper form, and it's all most infants need for
the first few months.
   Baby's first food is usually cereal -- rice cereal, barley or oatmeal.
Start by feeding one or two tablespoons of cereal mixed with formula.
Feed this mixture with a spoon, not from a bottle or infant feeder.
Babies need to learn to eat from a spoon.  Boxed cereals are more
nutritious and less expensive than those packaged in jars, so start
your baby on boxed cereal.
   Vegetables and fruits will probably be the next foods your baby
will eat, and you can use those you prepare at home or you can buy
commercial products.  Offer only one new food to baby at a time.
Try it for three or four days at a time so you can see if an allergic
reaction develops.  Allergic reactions include hives, vomiting or
diarrhea.  Fruit juices may be started with fruits, but many doctors
advise your waiting until your baby is about a year old to start citrus
juice or fruit
 
Meats are usually started after vegetables and fruits, and these,   rusl.e      
too, may be prepared at home or bought.  Choose single ingredient
commercial meats, not combinations, for your baby's first meats.
Items like chicken and noodles or vegetables and beef have less
protein than single meat products.
   When your baby begins to eat solid foods, try to make feeding time
a relaxing time.  Don't try to feed other hungry children at the same
time.  You might want to give baby a little formula or breast milk so
he'll be hungry, but not starving.  Then feed solids and finish with
more milk.
   For more information about the proper foods for your baby, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Feeding Your Preschool Child. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/26/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2517
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2517,
"Feeding Your Preschool Child."
   No single food will provide your preschool age children with all the
nutrients needed for them to grow as they should.  Children need
foods from each of the four required food groups...just as adult do.
   Here are the servings your children should get to maintain healthy
growth...four servings from the fruit and vegetable group which
includes all fruits and vegetables.
   Four servings from the bread and cereal group which includes
whole grain or enriched breads, cereals, crackers, grits, macaroni,
spaghetti, rice, and oats.
   Three servings from the milk and cheese group which includes milk
in any form plus yogurt, ice cream, ice milk, and cheeses...including
cottage cheese.
   Two servings from the meat group which includes meat, poultry,
fish, dry beans or peas, nuts, peanut butter, and seeds.
   Children also need plenty of water.  Offer them water between
meals.  As for sweets...remember that children are born with a
preference for sweet foods, so try not to encourage too many sweets
at the expense of other foods.
   If you have trouble getting your pre-school children to
eat...remember that their senses of taste and smell are very sharp.
They prefer mainly mild-flavored and lightly-seasoned foods.
   Here are some things to keep in mind when you're offering food to
your children...
   Children like food textures that are soft and moist, smooth, or
crispy like raw fruits and vegetables.  Tough or stringy meats turn
them off.
 
Children like attractive foods with bright colors.  Sometimes   urnogusl.e      
decorating a food such as cereal with a smiley face...or serving it on a
pretty plate will help.
   Children generally like foods that are unmixed and plain.  But they
do like spaghetti and macaroni and cheese.
   Children like foods that are in bite-size pieces.  So, cut meats into
finger slices, serve raw vegetables and fruit pieces, cut toast into
manageable pieces.
   Also, you should remember that children have little appetites.
Don't overwhelm them with adult-size servings, and serve them in
child size plates and cups.  This can make a big difference.
   Child-size servings should include about...one-half cup of milk or
other liquid...one to two ounces of meat....one-fourth cup cooked cereal
or one-half cup of ready-to-eat cereal...one slice of bread...and two to
four tablespoons of vegetables and fruits.
   Try serving new foods in very small amounts, too.
   For more information and suggestions about proper nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Food Additives. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2518
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2518,
"Food Additives."
   Food additives are used only to maintain or to improve quality of
food or to give it some added quality that consumers want.  The Food
and Drug Administration monitors the use of additives and allows them
to be used only if proven information has shown that the additive will
accomplish the intended effect in the food.  Also, the amount used
cannot be more than is needed  to accomplish the intended effect in
the food.
   Additives are used to achieve one or a combination of four
purposes...to maintain or improve nutritional value...to maintain
freshness...to help in processing or preparation...or to  make food more
appealing.
   Without additives or preservatives, some food would soon spoil or it
would taste bland.  If some foods were not made storable, there might
be considerable waste of food.  Also, if some foods aren't stored
properly they can cause illnesses.
   Here are some of the additives which  benefit food.
Nutrient supplements.  Vitamins and minerals are added to foods to
make them more nutritious and sometimes to replace those nutrients
lost during processing.  Examples...bread that has been "enriched," milk
with vitamin D added and margarine with vitamins A and D added.
   Non-nutritive sweeteners are added to some foods...these in the
form of sugar substitutes.
   Preservatives.  There are several kinds of preservatives which are
effective in preventing spoilage in a particular type of food or against
a particular organism.
 
Emulsifiers.  These products improve the uniformity of a food...the   st.e      
fineness of grain...the smoothness and body of foods such as bakery
goods, ice creams and confectionery products.
   Stabilizers and thickeners.  These products add smoothness, color
uniformity and flavor uniformity to such things as ice creams,
chocolate milk and artificially sweetened beverages.  Stabilizers and
thickeners are labeled as pectins, vegetable gums and gelatins.
   Flavors and flavoring agents.  Some of these such as spices and
liquid derivatives of onion, garlic, cloves and peppermint enhance
flavor.  Synthetic flavorings which resemble natural flavors have been
developed and these have the advantage of being more stable than
natural flavors.
   Bleaching agents and maturing agents.  These speed the aging
process which improves the breadmaking quality of flour.  Freshly
milled flour is yellowish and makes very poor bread.
   Colors.  Although colors don't improve eating quality they are
considered important.  The chances are you're so used to food being a
specific color that you would refuse to buy it if it were some other
color.
   Additives have many other uses too.  These uses include hardening,
drying, leavening, anti-foaming, firming, crisping, anti-sticking,
whipping, creaming, clarifying and sterilizing.
   Without additives to help in the processing of food, today's grocery
stores would need a lot less room to sell what foods would be left.
Tested and approved food additives are a part of today's modern food
technology.
   For more information and suggestions about nutrition, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Food Fads and Fallacies. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2519
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2519, "Food Fads and Fallacies."
   The promotion of nutrition misinformation has become a multi-
billion dollar business.  There's almost no end to the nutrition tests
and treatments, special foods and food supplements, pills, gadgets,
diets, books and magazines that are produced daily to take advantage
of the public's new health and fitness awareness.
   Health quacks capitalize on people's fears...fears that they're being
poisoned by food additives and pollution...and fears that their diets are
being adversely affected by modern processing methods.  These quacks
capitalize on people's hopes...hopes of looking and feeling young
forever...of being free from illness...and of performing at exceptional
levels.  Health quacks seem to have all the answers.  "Super nutrition"
is the magic cure for any all problems.
   Let's try to burst eight of the bubbles of common food myths...
   The first one...athletes need more protein than the average person.
False--Exercise increases the need for calories...or energy...not protein.
Also, muscles increase in size with stimulation...not excess protein.
   The second...if small amounts of a vitamin are good for you, then
large amounts are even better.
False--Taking more vitamins than your body needs does not do it any
good.  Extra amounts of water-soluble vitamins...B complex and vitamin
C...are excreted.  Too much of  fat-soluble vitamins...A,D,E or K...can
be toxic.
 
The third...foods grown with chemical pesticides and fertilizers are   in.      
slowly poisoning us.
False--The proper application of pesticides insures that the chemical
level is harmless before the crop is harvested.  Chemical fertilizers
supply the same chemical elements that natural fertilizers supply.  Soil
condition, fertilizers and pesticides all affect crop yield...not
nutritional quality.
   The fourth...large doses of vitamin C...ascorbic acid...will cure the
common cold.
False--The claims that vitamin C cures colds are still being studied.
Excessive intake of ascorbic acid...or vitamin C...may lead to kidney
stone formation.
   The fifth...hair analysis can be used to diagnose a need for vitamins
and minerals.
False--Hair analysis is a waste of money because the state of your
body's health may be completely unrelated to the chemical composition
of your hair.  There are no vitamins in hair and the mineral
composition is affected by many other factors.
   The sixth...bee pollen can boost athletic performance.
False--Tests, including one conducted at LSU with the swimming team,
have shown that bee pollen offers no benefits over a balanced diet.
It is expensive and what is worse, it can cause dangerous allergic
reactions.
   The seventh...vinegar makes you lose weight by melting away your
fat.
False--Fat cannot be melted away by vinegar, grapefruit juice, or any
other acid.  Exercise and a lower calorie diet can use up the calories
stored as fat.
 
And finally, the eighth..."natural" foods--those without chemical   esnsn.      
additives--are better for you than foods containing additives.
False--Foods packaged without additives or preservative are no more
healthful than others.  Additives must now pass extensive tests before
they can be used to help maintain the quality and safety of a product.
Research doesn't support claims that additives cause hyperactivity in
children.  Treatment should be directed by a physician.
   If you hear some claim which promises miraculous results...or
belittles the medical profession or normal foods...or appeals to your
emotions...you should question its usefulness.
   You can get more information about diet and nutrition from the
home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Foods High in Dietary Fiber. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2520
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2520, "Foods High in Dietary Fiber."
   Dietary fiber is the indigestible part of plants that has a definite
benefit in treating and preventing constipation.  Eating more foods
which are high in dietary fiber has also been linked to preventing and
treating other health problems such as colon cancer and diverticular
disease, but evidence is incomplete and inconclusive at this time.
   Dietary fiber occurs naturally in all plant foods including grains,
fruits, vegetables, nuts, peas and beans.  People in developed countries
generally eat fewer foods with dietary fiber, mainly because they eat
less cereal grain.  Although fiber adds no essential nutrients to the
body, it does play an important role in the diet.
   Foods which are high in fiber include: peas and beans; fresh, raw
fruits and vegetables (especially sweet potatoes and Irish potatoes
cooked in their skins); and whole grain breads and cereals.  Bran, one
of the most common types of dietary fiber, is found in whole grain
breads and cereals.  Cereals that are one hundred percent bran usually
have about seven grams of fiber per ounce.  Cereals with bran in the
name contain less, but they do have more fiber than do other cereals.
   Eating a balanced diet which includes fruits, vegetables, whole
grain breads and cereals will give you adequate fiber and help to
promote a healthy lifestyle.
   If you would like to have more information about nutrition or if
you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Dietary Fiber--Its
Importance in Your Diet," call the home economist in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Foods on a Low Sodium Diet. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2521
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2521, "Foods on a Low Sodium Diet."
   Salt is one of the most commonly used seasonings in America.  The
salt shaker is a common sight in most kitchens, and salt is also part
of many of the products that enter our homes.
   Table salt is a compound known as sodium chloride.  It is made up
of 40 percent sodium and 60 percent chlorine.  Sodium is an essential
mineral because your body needs it to maintain fluid balance and to
help transmit nerve impulses.  Sodium also helps muscle fibers to
contract and expand.  But, even though sodium is necessary, most
people probably eat more than they need.  The Food and Nutrition
Board of the National Academy of Sciences now recommends that we
eat only about 1100 to 3300 milligrams of sodium a day.  This is a
safe, adequate amount.
   Only one teaspoon of table salt contains about 2,000 milligrams of
sodium.  About one-fourth of most of our sodium intake comes from
salt added to food.  Sodium occurs naturally in foods, too, but usually
in small amounts.  If your doctor prescribes a low-sodium diet for you,
you'll be eating a lot of fresh fruits and vegetables.  But even certain
vegetables contain considerable amounts of sodium.  These include
artichokes, beets, beet greens, carrots, celery, mustard greens, spinach
and turnips.
   You'll also be eating meats, poultry, fish, peas, beans, bread,
cereals and milk products, but the amounts of some of these may be
limited because meat, poultry, fish, dairy products and eggs have
greater amounts of sodium than fresh fruits and vegetables.  Frozen
lima beans and frozen peas are also high in sodium. 
Processed foods are usually much higher in sodium than fresh                    
foods.  For example, a fresh tomato has only 14 milligrams of sodium
and one cup of commercial tomato soup has 932 milligrams.  A cup of
canned tomato sauce has 1,498 milligrams.  Many other foods have salt
added in processing.  These include cheese, bacon, sausage, ham,
pickles and sauerkraut.
   Packaged foods like mixes, cereals, canned food, chili sauce,
ketchup, mayonnaise and mustard, and frozen, prepared foods all
contain added sodium or salt.
   Reading labels can help you find other sources of salt. Some of the
most common sources of sodium used in processing are monosodium
glutamate, sodium benzoate and di-sodium phosphate.  If the label
doesn't give the exact amount of sodium, remember that ingredients
are listed in order of quantity.  If you're cutting down on sodium,
don't buy products if sodium is among the first three ingredients
listed.
   Baking powder and baking soda are almost as high in sodium as
table salt.  Many commercial antacids and alkalizers are high in
sodium and shouldn't be taken for heartburn by people who must
restrict sodium.
   The drinking water in some areas also has a high sodium content.
You can find out the sodium content of your drinking water by calling
your local health department.
   For more information about low sodium foods or for a free
pamphlet called "Sodium Sense," call the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Iron, Functions and Sources. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2523
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2523,
"Iron, Functions and Sources."
   High school age and college age girls who appear pale, listless and
tired may be suffering from a malady called iron deficiency anemia.
This anemia can be caused by a lack of iron in their diets or by a
loss of blood in illness or injury.
   While young women are especially susceptible to iron deficiencies,
many school age children also have diets that are low in this
important mineral.  Iron helps your body build red blood cells by
producing a substance called hemoglobin.
   To prevent this shortage of iron and the tired feeling it causes,
it's important that these people should eat enough of the foods which
contain iron.  Generally, foods containing iron come from the more
colorful foods of three food groups.  Red meats such as beef, pork,
veal and lamb are good sources of iron.  Liver is perhaps one of the
best sources of iron...but it's really not that popular with many people.
Perhaps you can work it into your diet or your family's diet by
cooking it several different ways...such as frying it or grinding it and
mixing it with ground beef...or chopping it and putting it in meat
sauces or with liver spreads.
   You will find that egg yolks and dry beans are also good sources
for iron.
   If you're looking for iron in vegetables you should try the dark
green ones like chard, spinach, endive, mustard and turnip greens.
Collards, kale, and broccoli supply less iron than those just mentioned.
Dried fruits are good sources of iron...these include prunes, apricots,
dates, figs, peaches and raisins.  Whole grain and enriched breads and
cereals are good sources of iron. Iron is one of the nutrients used in
the enrichment process of these foods.
   To help your body absorb more of the iron you get in food you can
eat some kind of food high in vitamin C such as orange juice along
with the iron-rich food.  An example might be a glass of tomato juice
with a fresh spinach salad.  Another good combination is orange juice
with an egg for breakfast.  Not only will your body take in the iron,
it will also absorb more of it.
   For more information and suggestions about nutrition, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Junk Food. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2524
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2524, "Junk Food."
   The term "junk food" refers primarily to foods which contain a lot
of calories in the form of fat and sugar and relatively few other
nutrients.  Some foods which have been labeled as junk include:
pizza, hamburgers, french fries, ready-to-eat cereals, ice cream, candy,
gum and soft drinks.  Because junk really means "of little or no
significance," we may need to reconsider calling some of these foods
junk foods.
   For the most part, nutritionists agree that no food is truly
worthless.  There are, however, foods with limited nutritional value.
If a food contains large amounts of sugar or fat, its nutritional value
may be low.  These high fat, high sugar foods contain a lot of
calories but few nutrients.
   A better use of the term "junk" would be to describe total diets
rather than particular foods.  A diet made up mainly of foods
containing calories for energy but lacking in protein, vitamins and
minerals would be a poor diet, or a junk diet, because it would not
help insure good health.
   Proper selection of a variety of foods which contain recommended
nutrients is the best way to meet your body's needs.  These nutritious
foods include fruits, vegetables, breads, cereals, milk, milk products,
meat, poultry, fish, eggs, beans and peas.  If you need additional
calories, you can get them by eating foods high in fats, oils and
sugar.
   For more information and suggestions about proper nutrition or for
a free pamphlet called "The Art of Snacking," call the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Less Food into Adulthood. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2525
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2525, "Less Food into Adulthood."
   During the rapid growth years of infancy, childhood and
adolescence, the need for food energy is great.   Young children and
teen-agers are active, and they have periods of rapid growth.  This is
why it seems like they can eat everything they want and still stay
slim.
   Many people have a rude awakening when they reach adulthood,
however.  Even individuals who have always been able to eat all they
want without worrying about gaining weight may find the scale
showing a gain of a pound or two every time they weigh.  This slow,
steady weight gain is called "creeping obesity."
   One pound of body fat is equal to 3,500 calories above what your
body needs for maintenance.  This sounds like a lot of food, but just
100 extra calories a day (maybe a roll with butter) will give you the
extra 3,500 calories in a month.  These extra calories can mean a
weight gain of l pound a month, 12 pounds a year or 60 pounds in
five years.  That's why the slow, steady weight gain is called
"creeping obesity."
   We need fewer calories as we age, but we need the same amount of
other nutrients.  This means we need to eat adequate nutrients and
reduce calories at the same time.  Choosing meals and snacks from the
basic food groups, preparing food properly, and increasing physical
activity will help solve the problem of eating less and eating right. 
Nutrient requirements can be met by choosing foods from these                   
groups: Milk-Cheese Group, Vegetable-Fruit Group, Bread-Cereal Group
and the Meat, Poultry, Fish and Beans Group.  The fifth group, fats,
sweets and alcohol, provides calories but few nutrients.  Use caution
here.
   The Milk-Cheese Group supplies calcium, protein, riboflavin and
vitamins A and D.  Choose two servings from this group daily.  Skim
milk and low-fat milk can help reduce calories yet provide nutrients
needed.
   The Vegetable-Fruit Group provides fiber and vitamins A and C.
Choose four servings daily from this group.  Fruits and vegetables rich
in vitamin C include citrus fruits, melons, berries and greens.  Vitamin
A is found in dark green and yellow vegetables.
   The Bread-Cereal Group is an important source of the B vitamins,
iron and some protein.  Eat these foods daily, even when you're
dieting.  A slice of bread or one-half cup of rice has only 70 calories.
Include whole grain and enriched breads and cereals in your diet 3 or
4 times each day.
   The Meat, Poultry, Fish and Beans Group supplies protein, iron,
zinc and some B vitamins.  Eat two servings daily.  A serving is 2 to
3 ounces of cooked meat or 1 cup of beans.
   The way you prepare food can affect its calorie content.  Frying
adds calories, as do sauces and gravies.  Choose cooking methods such
as broiling, boiling or baking instead of frying.  Eat fruit for dessert
instead of sweets.
   Getting more exercise can help you control your weight.  Brisk
walking is excellent for people of all ages.  Be sure to check with
your doctor before starting an exercise program.
   You can get more information about diet and nutrition from the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Legumes:  A Protein Alternative. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2526
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2526, "Legumes:  A Protein Alternative."
   More and more people are realizing that legumes, peas, beans and
lentils, are delicious, versatile, economical and nutritious.  Dried peas
and beans are low in fat and cholesterol, high in fiber and they're an
excellent source of protein.  A one cup serving of dried peas or beans
provides about one-fourth of an adult's daily protein needs.
   Because of their high protein content, dried peas and beans are in
the Meat-Poultry-Fish-Beans group of the Daily Food Guide.  Two
servings from this group are needed each day.  With today's rising
food costs, dried peas and beans (at about 9 a serving -- based on a
price of 55 a pound) are an economical protein source.
   Protein is made up of building blocks called amino acids.  Nine of
these amino acids are called essential amino acids.  They cannot be
made by the body, so must be provided by the diet.  Only when all
nine essential amino acids are present in adequate amounts and in the
right proportion can they be used efficiently by the body.
   Foods from animal sources such as meat, fish, poultry, eggs and
dairy products provide adequate amounts of all of the essential amino
acids.  Foods from plant sources such as nuts, grains, beans and peas
also supply protein, but these plant-source foods may lack one or more
of the essential amino acids.  To complete the protein requirement
from plant-source foods, you may combine foods from plant sources.
Another way to make sure that you get adequate amounts of the
amino acids is to eat small amounts of plant and animal protein in
the same meal so they can balance any lack of amino acid in one of
the foods. 
For example:  A serving of grain, such as a cereal, potato, rice or             
corn, when eaten with a serving of peas or beans, supplies all nine
essential amino acids in the correct pattern.  A small amount of milk,
cheese, meat, poultry, fish or eggs will also balance the protein value
when eaten with beans or peas.
   Some of these nutritious food combinations are basics in many
cultures.  For example:  Mexicans eat corn and wheat tortillas with
refried beans, and minestrone made with sausage and beans is an
Italian tradition.  In the United States, beans and rice, baked beans
and brown bread, or beans and franks provide the right combination of
amino acids for growth and for building and repairing body tissues.
   For more information and suggestions about food, nutrition and
diets, call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Milk Myths. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2527
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2527,
"Milk Myths."
   Milk and milk products are an important part of everyone's diet.
Unfortunately, there are some common misconceptions about milk and
milk products that should be corrected.
   First, some people have the idea that only young children need
milk.  It's true that your need for milk begins when you are a baby
but that need continues the rest of your life.  What changes is the
amount of milk you need.  Three to four glasses of milk every day are
recommended for growing children...while only two glasses every day
are recommended for adults.
   Another myth suggests that milk causes heart disease.  Researchers
at the National Heart and Lung Institute conducted a ten-year
nutritional study of 912 Framington, New York, citizens and reported
that there is no discernible association between reported diet intake
and serum cholesterol level.
   The report also stated that there was no suggestion of any relation
between diet and the subsequent development of coronary heart disease
in the study group.
   One of the more amusing myths about milk is the one that suggests
that it's dangerous to serve milk and fish or milk and acid foods at
the same meals. Just keep in mind that any two foods which can be
eaten separately can be eaten together.  What would we do without
milk in oyster stew, creamed spinach, tomato soup, or sour cream on
cucumbers?
 
Some people believe that anyone on a weight-reduction diet should   ene         
not include milk in their meals.  However, milk has such excellent
nutrient value that a dieter would really do a disservice to himself or
herself by not drinking milk.  If you feel you need to reduce your
intake of calories and you're thinking of not drinking milk...try
drinking skim milk.  It has considerably fewer calories than whole
milk...but it still has all the nutrients.
   And finally, there are those people who believe that the calcium
you get in milk is not all that important...especially for adults...but it
is.  Calcium is needed for the good development of bones and teeth.
Adults need calcium to maintain their teeth and their bones in later
life and to prevent a condition called osteoporosis.  Osteoporosis
develops when bones lose calcium making the bones brittle and easily
broken.
   For more nutrition information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Milk in Family Meals," call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Milk, Nutrition. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2528
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2528,
"Milk, Nutrition."
   Milk and milk products are a must in the diets of people because
they contain so many vital nutrients...such as protein, calcium,
phosphorous, riboflavin, vitamin A and vitamin D.
   The proteins in milk are high quality because they contain all of
the amino acids needed for normal growth and body maintenance.
These amino acids also form antibodies which fight infections.
   One pint of milk contains most of the calcium needed daily by an
average adult man.  Children need more than a pint because they're
still developing bones and teeth.
   Milk is important throughout life...especially in older people.  Older
people may lose teeth and suffer osteroperosis...which is thin, porous
bones...because they lose calcium through the bones.  So, it's a good
idea for older people to try to keep calcium in their diets and milk is
an excellent source of calcium.  Also, phosphorous...the other mineral
in milk...works with calcium in building strong bones and teeth.
   Whole milk supplies good amounts of vitamin A which helps keep
your skin healthy and helps toward normal vision.  Skim and low-fat
milk are fortified with vitamin A which is a fat-soluble vitamin.
   Riboflavin is a B vitamin found in milk and it is essential for a
youthful appearance because it keeps your skin smooth and healthy.
It also helps turn food into energy and keeps your nervous system
working as it should.
   Milk doesn't naturally contain vitamin D...but processors add
vitamin D to help you put to work the calcium and phosphorous you
get in milk.     For more information and suggestions about milk or
for a free pamphlet called "Milk in Family Meals," call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Vitamin Myths. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2529
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2529, "Vitamin Myths."
   Americans spend billions of dollars each year on vitamins.  As you
know, they're available in supermarkets, drug stores, health food
stores, by mail and from door-to-door salesmen.  Let's examine some
of the claims you hear:
   Claim #1 -- If you feel rundown, you need vitamins.  Fact: Some B
vitamins are needed for food to be changed into energy, but amounts
greater than the Recommended Daily Allowances won't provide any
benefits.  B vitamins are found in meats, milk, green leafy vegetables
and whole grain breads and cereals.
   Claim #2 -- Modern farming practices have depleted the soil of its
nutrients, so our food no longer contains enough vitamins.  Fact:
Modern crops are more nutritious than ever because of crop rotation,
soil tests and soil enrichment practices.  Most people can get the
recommended amounts of vitamins simply by eating a balanced diet
which includes the basic food groups.
   Claim #3 -- Vitamin E can enhance sexual potency.  Fact:  Large
doses of vitamin E used to treat human infertility or impotence have
not been successful.  It's almost impossible for a human to be
deficient in vitamin E because this vitamin is present to some extent
in most foods.  This myth was based on research which showed that
rats deprived of vitamin E became sterile.  It has no application for
humans. 
Claim #4 -- Vitamin C will prevent the common cold.  Fact:                      
Carefully controlled experiments show no real difference in colds
between those who take vitamin C supplements and those who don't,
but cold symptoms are less severe in those who take vitamin C.  High
levels of vitamin C may actually be dangerous for some people and
may cause nausea, vomiting and kidney stone formation in those who
are prone to them.
   Claim #5 -- B vitamins will cure nervous conditions.  Fact:  B
vitamins are necessary for a properly functioning nervous system, but
dosing yourself with B vitamins won't make you less nervous or help
you resist stress.
   Claim #6 -- Natural vitamins are better for you than synthetic
vitamins.  Fact:  Your body can't tell the difference between a vitamin
from a plant or animal and a vitamin made in the laboratory.  In fact,
some vitamin manufacturers put synthetic ingredients in their so-called
natural products.
   Claim #7 -- If a few vitamins are good for you, more vitamins are
that much better.  Fact:  Large amounts of some vitamins are
dangerous.  The fat soluble vitamins A and D are poisonous in large
amounts.  Very high levels of some water soluble vitamins, including
niacin and vitamin C, can have adverse affects, too.
   Myths about vitamins will probably always be with us.  To be sure
that you get vitamins in the right amounts, just choose foods from the
basic food groups daily.  These food groups include meat, poultry, fish
and beans, milk, breads and cereals, fruits and vegetables.
   For more information and suggestions about proper nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Nutrition Myths. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2531
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2531, "Nutrition Myths."
   Myths about nutrition are usually based on tradition and are often
handed down from generation to generation.  Here are a few of the
more common nutrition myths...
   Some "health foods" have special powers of protection and healing.
   Fact:  A particular food or food supplement will not prevent or
cure diseases such as arthritis, diabetes, cancer or heart disease.
"Health foods" do not offer any special power for prevention or
healing.  Recommended amounts and combinations of basic food groups
contribute to good health.

   Myth:  You should never drink milk while eating fish or lemons.
   Fact:  No experimental or clinical evidence has ever shown that
eating these foods together will make you sick.  If you can eat these
foods separately, then you can eat them together.  In fact, fish
chowder or oyster stew combines both fish and milk.

   Myth:  Some foods, such as boiled eggs and grapefruit, burn
calories.
   Fact:  There are no foods with the magic property of burning
calories.  The real secret to weight control is to reduce food intake
and increase exercise.

   Myth:  Beets are high in iron and should be eaten to prevent
anemia.
   Fact:  Actually, beets have very little iron.  The red color of foods
is not necessarily related to the iron content of the foods.  Beet
greens are a good source of iron, however.
 
Myth:  Foods grown with organic fertilizers are more nutritious    foods        
than foods grown with chemical fertilizers.
   Fact:  There is no difference in the nutritive quality of organically
fertilized crops and chemically fertilized crops.  All fertilizers are
changed to organic chemical compounds before the plant uses the
nutrients.  Most nutrients, except minerals, are synthesized by the
plant not obsorbed from the soil.

   Myth:  Fresh vegetables are more nutritious than frozen or canned
vegetables.
   Fact:  Many frozen and canned fruits and vegetables may actually
contain more nutrients than fresh products.  Produce is often frozen
or canned almost immediately after it is harvested which helps
preserve nutrients.  Fresh produce, on the other hand, may lose
nutrients when it is exposed to air and light during shipment and
storage.

   Myth:  Toasted bread has fewer calories than untoasted bread.
   Fact:  Because toasting bread only removes water from the bread,
the caloric value of toasted and untoasted bread is about the same.
However, a slice of toast or a slice of bread only contains about 70
calories.

   Myth:  Synthetic vitamins are not as effective as vitamins from
natural sources.
   Fact:  Your body cannot tell the difference between a vitamin from
natural sources and those made in a lab.  The vitamins made from
natural sources are usually much more expensive than synthesized
vitamins.  Also, many so-called natural vitamin pills often contain
chemical compounds.
 
If you want or need more information about food, nutrition, and   nomely        
diet, call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Nutrition Risks for the Elderly. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2532
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
2532,"Nutrition Risks for the Elderly."
   Changes in your activity, your body, your living arrangements and
your income may all work against your eating well and enjoying food
when you get past 65 years of age.
   One of the major changes in eating patterns in people past the age
of 65 is the need to reduce the number of calories eaten.  This is
reduced calorie need is due mainly to reduced physical activity and a
decrease in basal metabolic rate.
   Of course, too many calories can lead to obesity which has been
related to the development of age-related diseases.  And even though
the number of calories needs to be reduced...the nutrient intake needs
to remain the same.  So this means older people need to eat more
nutrient-dense foods.  These are foods that furnish a large amount of
nutrients in relation to the calories they furnish.
   The partial loss of taste and smell also affects appetites.  The
number of taste buds declines with age...those that detect sweet and
salt deteriorate first...leaving those that detect sour and bitter.
   After the age of 65...many people eliminate hard-to-chew foods
from their diet...making protein foods the first to go.  Yet, older
people need these protein-rich foods.
   Soft protein foods that can be added to the diet include cheeses,
dry beans and peas, eggs, fish, poultry and ground meat.
   Calcium-rich foods are also needed by older people...because as the
body ages, its ability to absorb calcium decreases.  Loss of calcium in
the bones can cause a condition called osteoporosis which makes bones
brittle and easily broken.
   Other problems encountered by older people include eating
alone...economic stress...or the feeling that nutritious foods cost too
much.
 
Here are some suggestions that may help you enjoy your mealtimes    tooy        
more as you grow older.  Eat three good meals a day--but eat less at
each meal than before.  If you can't eat very much at a regular meal,
try having part of your foods as snacks.  Choose nutrient-rich foods
and eliminate or cut down on "empty-calorie" foods.
   Include in your meals a variety of foods.  this will aid you in
getting all the nutrients you need.  Eat plenty of protein-rich foods
like meats, cheeses, eggs, and dry beans.
   To avoid constipation, drink enough water every day...about eight
glasses a day.  Eat raw fruits and vegetables and whole-grain breads
and cereals, including bran cereal.
   Make your meals enjoyable...listen to your kind of music, sit in a a
favorite spot, serve your meals attractively, take your time eating and
eat with other people as often as possible.
   For more nutriton information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Nutritious Snacks for Children. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2534
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2534,
"Nutritious Snacks for Children."
   It seems that meals-on-the-run have become a part of American
life...
it's just unfortunate that good nutrition is often sacrificed in this
hurried life style.
   Because snacks and small meals usually make up for lost main
meals, you should consider buying snack foods which are nutritious as
well as appealing to those who eat them.  Try to pass up those snacks
which contain so many empty calories...meaning foods with lots of
calories but relatively few nutrients.  Those empty-calorie foods
include candy, soft drinks and chips.
   Try to buy snack foods which are high in vitamin C.  Vitamin C
promotes healthy gums and teeth and helps fight infection.  Enough of
vitamin C will help a child resist the colds and viruses so common
among children.  Some foods which are high in vitamin C include
oranges, grapefruit and juices from these fruits.  Tomato juice is
another good source of vitamin C.
   Calcium is another of nutrients often missing in the diets of
children.  Snacks containing calcium include dairy drinks such as
whole milk, skim milk and buttermilk.  Even chocolate milk is a better
beverage than a soft drink containing a lot of sugar.
   Cottage cheese, hard cheeses and yogurt are also good sources of
calcium as well as protein.  Milkshakes made with milk and fruit are
excellent snacks for teenagers.
 
Snacks which provide vitamin A include fruits and vegetables with   erdy        
deep yellow or orange color.  Vitamin A contributes to healthy skin
and vision.  "Easy-to-Prepare" and "keep-on-hand vitamin A snacks
would include yellow-fleshed peaches...fresh, frozen, or canned and
dried fruits like apricots or peaches.  Carrots are an excellent source
of vitamin A.  Raw carrot and other vegetable sticks can be prepared
ahead and kept at a convenient spot in the refrigerator for snacking.
   Iron is a difficult-to-get nutrient but snacks can help provide it.
Dried fruits, peanut butter, hard-cooked eggs, and whole-grain or
enriched breads and cereals would be good choices for iron-rich
snacks.
   When you're shopping for nutritious snacks, beware of fruit-
flavored drinks...these often contain a lot of sugar and few nutrients.
Check the nutrition label and know what's in it before you buy it.
   For more nutrition information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "The Are of Snacking," call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Organic Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2535
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2535, "Organic Foods."
   Organic foods are often promoted as having special health-giving
properties not found in other foods.
   But, by definition, all foods which come from living organisms are
"organic"...so, it's more accurate to speak of "organically-grown" food.
Organically-grown foods usually refer to foods which are produced
without the use of any agricultural chemicals and processed without
the use of food chemicals or additives.
   These foods usually cost about twice as much as conventionally
grown foods and since there is no government agency or law which
defines the term "organic," it's difficult to certify which foods meet
this definition.
   Quite a bit of research has been done on the nutritional value of
organically-grown foods as compared to chemically-grown foods.  The
results of this research indicates that there is no scientific basis to
the claim that orgnically-grown foods are superior to foods grown
using chemical fertilizers.
   Chemical fertilizers are broken down in the soil into the essential
elements for plant food.  Plants are unable to tell the difference
between elements produced from organic matter such as animal or
vegetable matter and elements produced from chemical fertilizers.
   The nutritional make-up of food depends on many things...the
nutrients available in the soil, the genetic characteristics of the plant,
the amount of rainfall, weather conditions and so forth.
 
So-called "organic" foods have been promoted as pesticide-free.   e plant,      
However, in scientific tests done in food labs, many "organic" foods
were found to contain pesticide residues.  A farmer who does his best
to follow organic farming practices may still find pesticides in his
crops.  Also, because foods grown in most areas require some form of
pesticide control, many foods labeled "organic" or "organically grown"
may have been treated with pesticides.
   Food can be produced organically on an individual or small scale
basis, but could never be used to produce the large supplies of food
required by the growing population of the United States and the
world.
   If you want or need more information about organically produced
foods, call the county agent or home economist in your parish office
of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Potassium-rich Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2537
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2537, "Potassium-rich Foods."
   People who take diuretic medicines to control high blood pressure
and fluid retention must be especially careful to eat foods high in
potassium because, along with fluid loss, there is also a loss of
potassium.
   Potassium is linked to fluid balance and muscle activity.  Potassium
deficiency may produce symptoms of fatigue, weakness and mental
depression.  When potassium levels are very low, heart irregularities
and paralysis can occur.
   A diet high in foods which contain potassium usually will be
sufficient to prevent a deficiency in potassium resulting from diuretics.
Eating fruits and vegetables which are high in potassium can increase
potassium intake.
   Potassium-rich fruits include oranges, orange and grapefruit juice,
bananas, melons, nectarines, prunes, peaches, pears, nectarines and
avocados.  Vegetables high in potassium include collard greens,
cucumbers, potatoes, sweet potatoes, cabbage, beans, peas, winter
squash and tomatoes.
   Other good sources of potassium are milk products and meats,
including beef, lamb, pork, chicken and fish.  Many people who take
diuretics are also on low sodium diets.  They may need to limit milk
intake to two servings daily and limit meat to about 6 ounces daily.
   Salt substitutes are made of potassium chloride and provide large
amounts of potassium.  Potassium chloride isn't recommended for
people with some conditions, including kidney disease, so anyone who
takes a diuretic should check with a doctor before using salt
substitutes.
   You can get more information about food, nutrition and diets from
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Preparing Your Own Baby Food. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2538
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2538, "Preparing Your Own Baby Food."
   You can prepare baby food at home for less cost than you can buy
it.  Besides being easy to prepare, baby food made at home is
healthful and nutritious.  All you need is the food, a food mill,
blender, fork or strainer.  Wash your hands and all equipment with
hot, soapy water before you start to make baby food.
   Wash fruits and vegetables, peel them and remove any seeds.  You
can use some fresh fruits, like bananas or ripe pears, without cooking
them first.  Other fresh fruits and vegetables should be cooked in a
little water or steamed until they are tender.  Cook or steam them
without adding salt, sugar or seasonings.
   To fix meats for baby, boil or bake them until they are tender.
Don't add fat, salt or seasonings.  When the meat is well-done, remove
all bones, skin and fat.
   Use a food mill, blender or fork to make food smooth.  Add liquids
such as cooking water, juice, milk or formula to thin the food as
needed.  Store home-prepared baby foods in the refrigerator.  Keep
cooked fruits and vegetables no longer than three days, and keep raw
fruits and cooked meats only two days.  Be sure to cover the foods
tightly.
   If you want to freeze some of your homemade baby food, put it in
ice trays, cover and freeze it until it's solid.  Remove cubes, place
them in plastic bags, then label and date.  These frozen baby foods
can be kept for one month. 
When you get ready to serve food you've frozen, thaw it in the                  
refrigerator, then heat the food cube in a double boiler or in a heat-
proof dish in a small amount of water either in the oven or on top of
the range.  Heat until warm, but don't overcook.  Throw away any
food your baby doesn't eat.
   For more information about nutrition for children, call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Restricting Sodium in Your Diet. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/26/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2539
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2539,
"Restricting Sodium in Your Diet."
   It's believed that too much sodium in the diet can contribute to
high blood pressure or hypertension in some people.  Restricting
sodium intake from foods, drinks, and drugs is one of the treatments
usually prescribed by physicians to control high blood pressure.
   If you need to restrict your sodium intake for medical reasons or if
you want to moderate your sodium intake for health reasons...here are
some suggestions which may help you.
   Reduce or eliminate the use of table salt.  Table salt is 40% sodium
and 60% chloride.  One teaspoon of salt has 2,000 milligrams of
sodium.  The amount of sodium required each day by most Americans
is only 1,100 to 3,300 milligrams.  Salt can be eliminated at the table
and in cooking.  Sodium-free herbs and spices can help season foods.
   Also, sodium is naturally present in most of the foods we eat.
Lower sodium foods are fresh fruits and vegetables.  High sodium
foods are poultry, meat, fish, dairy products, and eggs.  Reduce your
sodium intake by eating less of these high-sodium foods.
   Many processed foods contain added salt or sodium compounds and
their use should be moderated.  Snack foods such as potato chips,
pretzels, salted popcorn, salted nuts and crackers contain added salt.
Processed foods such as meats which are brined or cured are high in
sodium.  Canned vegetables may have some added salt.  Frozen
vegetables are usually salt-free...but some such as beans and peas do
contain added salt.  Canned and frozen fruits usually don't have added
salt, but tomatoes and apples may be treated with a sodium
compound.  Citrus fruit juices may also have a sodium compound
added.
 
The best rule is to read labels for added salt or sodium.  Check   dede         
the nutrition label for sodium listed in milligrams.  Also, check the
ingredient list for sodium or sodium compounds.
   Many other household compounds are high in sodium.  These
include baking powder and baking soda.  Condiments that are high in
sodium include bouillon cubes, worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, canned
soups, pickles, mustard, catsup, horseradish and any spices with the
word salt in it...such as garlic salt.  Use seasonings such as garlic
powder or onion powder rather than their salt.
   Sodium is also found in drinking water in varying amounts.  People
on very restricted diets may need to check with their doctor on this
source.
   Some over-the-counter and prescription drugs contain sodium in
significant amounts.  Read the labels or ask your physician.  Even
toothpaste and mouthwash contain extra sodium.
   Remember if you must restrict sodium intake...
   Read labels to look for products with lower sodium content.
   Remove the salt shaker from the table and eliminate salt in cooking
as much as possible.  Season foods with herbs, lemon and salt-free
spices.
   Use more "plain" varieties of foods, and start to do more cooking
from scratch.  You can control the sodium content this way.
   Eat more fresh or plain frozen vegetables or vegetables canned
without salt.
   Check with your doctor before using a salt substitute, like
potassium chloride.  It may cause further medical complications.
   For more information or ideas about restricting the sodium in your
diet or for a free pamphlet called "The Sodium Content of Your Food,"
call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Risks in Feeding Infants Whole or Skim Milk. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2540
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2540, "Risks in Feeding Infants Whole or Skim Milk."
   Until just a few years ago, human milk was the mainstay of most
infants's diets.  Recently, many formulas which closely resemble human
milk have been developed.  Most physicians now recommend breast-
feeding for most infants with formulas the next best choice.
   Some mothers wonder about feeding whole cow's milk to their
infants and how it compares to human milk.  Well, cow's milk contains
more protein than human milk, so it must be diluted before it's fed to
babies.  The pattern of amino acids in human milk is more appropriate
for infants than that found in cow's milk.  Also, the fat in human
milk is better absorbed than the fat in cow's milk.
   Human milk contains higher levels of vitamins A, C and E than
does cow's milk.  The iron in human milk is more efficiently absorbed
by babies than the iron in cow's milk and because of this, anemia is
less likely to be a problem among nursing infants.  And, as for
calcium, human milk contains less calcium but it is more easily
absorbed than the calcium in cow's milk.
   In addition to the nutritional benefits, human milk provides some
protection for infants against various intestinal and respiratory
illnesses.  Also, babies who are fed human milk are less likely to
develop allergies than those babies on cow's milk.
   Many nutrition experts recommend that skim milk not be given to
children until they're at least two years old...even if they're
overweight.  Using skim milk can be dangerous for infants...especially
if they're younger than one year old.
 
Because skim milk doesn't satisfy an infant's appetite, he or she   lye         
may drink large amounts of it which can result in a diet that's high
in protein and high in electrolytes which may lead to diarrhea and
brain damage.
   For more information and suggestions about the proper nutrition
for your infant, call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Saturated and Unsaturated Fats. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2541
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2541, "Saturated and Unsaturated Fats."
   You've probably heard or read about saturated and unsaturated fats.
They are discussed in advertisements for margarines, oils and
shortenings.  These ads can be confusing until you understand the
terms saturated and unsaturated.
   Fats are complex structures with many different parts of elements
linked together.  These links are really chemical bonds.  In saturated
fats, all of the links are filled.  Saturated fats are usually solid or
hard at room temperature and are found mostly in animal fats and a
few plants.  Saturated fats include the fats in lard, beef, pork, lamb,
butter fat, egg yolks and poultry skin.  Olive, palm and coconut are
also highly saturated, even though they come from plants.  Coconut oil
is more saturated than butter fat.  It is used in many so-called non-
dairy products such as creamers, dessert fillings and toppings.
   Chocolate also contains saturated fat.  Cocoa beans, from which
chocolate is made, have a fat known as cocoa butter.  Cocoa butter is
highly saturated, so eating sweets such as chocolate candy, baking
chocolate and chocolate chips increases the saturated fat level in your
diet.
   Polyunsaturated fats are those in which the links are not all filled
or saturated.  Polyunsaturated fats are liquid at room temperature, and
they come from plant sources such as corn, safflower, soybeans,
sunflowers, cotton seeds and sesame seeds.  Peanut oil is more
saturated that these other fats from plants, but it's still classified as
a polyunsaturated fat. 
Hydrogenated fats are vegetable oils that undergo hydrogenation, a              
process in which hydrogen is added to vegetable shortenings and
margarines to fill some of the chemical links.  This hardening process
causes the oil to become more saturated, and it also increases the
storage life of the product.
   Fats are being studied closely these days because of the increased
interest in preventing heart disease.  Remember that certain amounts
of fat are necessary for good health, but if your doctor tells you to
cut down on fats, follow his advice.  Read food labels for information
on types of fats in foods you buy.
   You can get more information about foods, nutrition and diet from
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Should You Lose Weight? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2542
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2542, "Should You Lose Weight?"
   How can you tell if you're overweight?  Is there a difference
between being overweight and being obese?  These questions often
have conflicting answers, and even nutrition experts disagree on the
answers.
   For many years, doctors have used height and weight tables to
determine if their patients weigh the correct amount.  Insurance
companies developed these tables based on their records, and the
tables reflect the weight ranges at which people of various heights
and builds are statistically at less risk of premature death.  Recently
the weights have been revised upward about 5 to 7 percent, but
several health associations urge using the lower weights on the
earlier charts.
   Another method of determining your ideal weight is to use this rule
of thumb:  For women, start at 5 feet and 100 pounds, adding 5
pounds for each inch you are over 5 feet tall.  For men, start at 110
pounds and add 5 pounds for each inch over 5 feet.
   Because body weight by itself doesn't determine fatness or
leanness, the so-called "average" weight is meaningless.  Skeleton
weight can vary from 4 to 9 percent among different individuals.  This
means that a woman who weighs 125 pounds can have a skeleton that
weighs as little as 5 pounds or as much as 11 pounds.  Also, a
muscular person's weight may look high in proportion to his height,
but he may have very little fat tissue.
   Finding out how much body fat a person has is the best way to
define overweight.  One way to measure body fat is to weigh under
water.  Mathematical calculations are then made to define the amount
of body fat. 
A reliable way to determine body fatness -- and an easier one than              
weighing under water -- is to measure the skin fold thickness with
constant tension calipers. About half of the body's fat is directly
under the skin, so measuring this thickness of fat, which is called
subcutaneous fat, is a good index of total body fat.  The calipers are
used to measure several different body sites.  Body fat can then be
calculated.
   A test you can conduct yourself is the mirror test.  Study yourself
in a full length mirror without clothes, and you can decide whether or
not you are too fat.
   Have you gained several pounds over the years?  Are your clothes
tighter?  If the signs point to your having too much body fat, don't
wait!  Check with your doctor for a well-balanced, low calorie diet
and an exercise program that is right for you.
   You can get more information about nutrition and weight loss from
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Special Food Needs of Teenagers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2543
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2543, "Special Food Needs of Teenagers."
   Adolescensce...the teen years...is a time when your body grows quite
rapidly...in fact...the only times it grows faster are during the prenatal
and infancy stages.  So, during this time of rapid growth there are
tremendous needs for nutrition and calories.  In relation to body size,
these needs are greater for adolescents than for any other age group.
   The adolescent growth spurt generally takes place in boys between
the ages of 12 and 17.  In girls, rapid growth begins about two years
earlier than in boys and lasts for a shorter time.
   Besides being a time of rapid growth, the adolescent years are a
time of tremendous activity.  Often, the eating habits of teenagers are
poor because activities keep them away from home at mealtime.  And,
their eating habits are usually more influenced by their friends and
advertising than by parents.
   Many teenagers skip breakfast and eat snacks that are too high in
sugar and fat.  Teenage girls may eat too little because they dread
being fat...even if they're already underweight.
   An adolescent cannot afford to fill up on foods that contribute
only empty calories.  Meals and snacks must be chosen carefully
because of the greater need for all of the nutrients.
   It's important that teens eat wholesome, body-building foods which
also provide energy.  The basic food groups supply these nutrients and
include the following:
 
The milk and cheese group--you should eat four servings a day   ts andetal      
from this group to get protein, calcium, riboflavin and other vitamins
and minerals.
   The vegetables and fruit group--you should eat at least four
servings a day from this group and these four servings should include
one with vitamin C and one with vitamin A.  You get vitamin C from
citrus fruit or tomatoes and you get vitamin A from carrots, greens,
or cantaloupe.
   The meat, poultry, fish and beans group--you should eat at least
two servings a day from this group to get protein, iron, vitamin B6,
zinc and other nutrients.
   The breads and cereals group--you should eat at least four servings
a day from this group, preferably whole-grain or enriched products, to
get the B vitamins, iron, some protein and other nutrients.
   And finally, the fats and sweets group--you should eat foods from
this group in moderation because they provide a lot of calories and
few nutrients.
   If you would like more information and suggestions about nutrition
and diet, or if you would like to receive a free copy of the pamphlet
"Hassle-Free Food Guide," call the home economist in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Storing Baby Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2544
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2544, "Storing Baby Foods."
   Storing baby foods properly helps to insure the good health of your
baby.  You can store unopened commercial baby foods on the pantry
shelf at room temperature.   Opened jars of baby foods should be
closed tightly and stored in the refrigerator.  They may be kept only
three days.
   Don't feed your baby directly from the jar because the spoon with
which you feed the baby will have saliva and germs on it.  This can
make the food spoil more quickly.  Transfer the amount you think
your baby will eat into a small bowl, and feed the baby from this
bowl.
   You can keep home prepared, cooked baby fruits and vegetables for
three days in the refrigerator, but don't keep raw fruits and cooked
meats longer than two days.  Put this food in glass or plastic jars and
cover them tightly.
   You can also freeze home prepared baby foods.  Fill an ice tray
with food, cover it with waxed paper, and freeze it until food becomes
solid.  You can then remove the cubes of food and freeze them in a
plastic bag.  Label and date the bag.  You can keep the frozen food
cubes for one month.
   To serve the frozen baby food, thaw the food in the refrigerator,
then heat the cubes in a double boiler or in a dish surrounded by hot
water on top of the stove or in the oven.  Heat just until it's warm;
don't overcook.  Throw away any food your baby doesn't eat.  Don't
refreeze it or save it for another meal.
   You can get more information about the preparation and storage of
baby foods from the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Storing Cheese. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2545
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2545,
"Storing Cheese."
   Cheese keeps best in the refrigerator.  The length of time you can
keep cheese depends on what kind it is and how it is wrapped.
   Soft cheeses are highly perishable.  Soft cheeses include cottage,
cream and Neufchatel.  Hard cheese...such as swiss and cheddar keep
much longer if you wrap them so that they don't dry out.
   Cheese should be stored in its original wrapper whenever possible.
You should cover the opened surface tightly with waxed paper, foil or
plastic wrap to protect it.  You can also store cheeses in tightly
covered containers.  Cheeses with strong odors...such as
Limburger...should always be stored in a tightly covered container.  If
you're going to store a piece of cheese for a long time you may want
to dip the cut surface in melted paraffin.
   Mold is an important part of some cheeses and may be eaten on
cheeses such as Blue and Roquefort.  Hard cheeses, such as swiss and
cheddar, are not ripened by mold so you when you find it on these
cheeses you should trim it off.  If the mold gets to the inside of the
cheese, probably you should throw it away.
   Generally, it's not recommended that you freeze cheese because it
becomes crumbly and mealy.  However, some varieties of cheese may
be frozen in small pieces of about a pound or less.  You can freeze
brick, cheddar, edam, Gouda, Muenster, Port du Salut, Swiss,
Provolone, Mozzarella and Camenbert.
   If you want a crumbly textured cheese to use in salads or salad
dressings, you should freeze a little Blue, Roquefort or Gorgonzola.
To freeze cheese, wrap it tightly and freeze it quickly at zero
degrees.  You shouldn't store it longer than six months. For more
nutrition information and suggestions or for a free pamphlet called
"What's New with Cheese" or another pamphlet called "Cheese in
Family Meals," call the home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Storing Dairy Products. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2546
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2546,
"Storing Dairy Products."
   Basically, milk and fluid milk products will keep for a week or
more in the refrigerator in your home.  Concentrated or manufactured
products such as butter, cheese, ice cream and yogurt should keep for
much longer periods.
   Milk and cream should be refrigerated immediately after you get
home.  It should be stored at about forty degrees Fahrenheit.  Milk
will absorb flavors of other foods in the refrigerator so it's a good
idea to reseal the carton you use each time you use it.
   Milk and cream should not be frozen...however, sweetened whipped
cream can be stored in the freezer in individual portions.  All you do
is put dollops of whipped cream on a cookie sheet and freeze them.
Then immediately put these frozen portions of whipped cream in
plastic bags and return them to your freezer until you're ready to use
them.
   Buttermilk, sour cream and yogurt should be stored the same as
milk and cream.  You need to either eat or drink these products
within three or four days to get the full benefit of their flavor.
   Creamed cottage cheese and cream cheese should be stored at forty
degrees Fahrenheit to protect their flavors and textures.  Keep them
tightly covered because they will absorb other flavors in the
refrigerator, too.
   Butter should be kept covered and in the refrigerator.  Long
exposure at room temperature or exposure to light causes butter to
lose it fine flavor.  Butter can be stored in the freezer for long
periods with no loss of quality.  However, when you freeze butter be
sure to put it in a moisture-vapor-proof container or wrap it in
moisture-vapor-proof material.
 
Cheese should be wrapped tightly while it is in the refrigerator so   ftal      
that it doesn't dry out.  If natural cheeses are wrapped poorly or
where there is quite a bit of moisture, mold spots may develop.
Generally, these molds are harmless and can be scraped off with no
harm to the rest of the cheese.  Ask for Tele-Tip number 2545 for
more detailed information about storing cheese.
   For more nutrition information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Milk in Family Meals," call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Sugar and Dental Health. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2547
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2547, "Sugar and Dental Health."
   Cakes and sweets are usually the highlights of most social
occasions while sweetened cold drinks and other beverages often
make up the breaktime snack for many Americans.
   In our society, children are often rewarded with candy for being
good or they're given a sweet dessert for eating all of their
vegetables.
   These practices can be invitations to dental disease.  Poor food
selection and poor eating habits can contribute to tooth decay and
gum disease which may eventually lead to the loss of teeth.
   The decay process begins when bacteria on the teeth...called
plaque... break down the sugar in foods to form acid.  The acid may
destroy the tooth enamel if it's allowed to form regularly and this can
lead to tooth cavities.
   To prevent decay, plaque must be controlled with proper diet and
good oral hygiene.  Here are some of the steps which will help you
maintain good dental health...
   Brushing and flossing daily to keep plaque from building up.
   Limiting the sweets you eat.  How much sugar a certain food
contains, how often you eat sweets, the length of time the sugar stays
on your teeth, and the form of the food...that is, whether it's sticky
or not...all of these things have a direct effect on tooth decay.  The
more often you eat foods with sugar, the more often acid has a
chance to attack the teeth.
 
Another of the steps toward good dental health is eating a   aay.  Thental      
balanced diet from the basic food groups.  Plan meals and snacks to
include the following foods every day...two or more servings of milk
and cheese...four or more servings of vegetables and fruits...four
servings of breads and cereals...and two servings from the meat,
poultry, fish and beans group.
   Good dental health doesn't just happen.  Plan to take care of your
teeth by eating the right foods and practicing correct dental hygiene.
   For more information and suggestions about nutrition and diet, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Teenage Pregnancy Nutritional Risks. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2548
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2548, "Teenage Pregnancy Nutritional Risks."
   As a teenager who is pregnant you must be sure to eat well
because your body needs food for its own growth and development and
for the growth and development of the baby you're carrying.  How you
eat during pregnancy will affect your own health as well as your
baby's health.  If you eat right, you'll be less likely to have
complications.  You're also more likely to have a healthy baby and be
better prepared to breast-feed if that's what you want to do.
   Current research indicates that weight gain during pregnancy should
be about 24 to 28 pounds.  If you begin your pregnancy below your
desirable weight, then your doctor may suggest that you gain more
than this.  If you were overweight when you became pregnant, your
weight gain during pregnancy should still be about 24-28 pounds.
Pregnancy is not the time to diet.  The way you gain weight during
pregnancy is very important, too.  A weight gain of one pound per
month for the first three months and then three-fourths of a pound
each week for the remaining six months is the appropriate pattern.
   Pregnant teenagers should eat a simple, well balanced diet which
includes a variety of foods.  The daily diet should include the
following food groups:
   1)  MILK -- One quart of whole milk...or lowfat milk...or skimmed
milk to provide protein for body tissues and calcium for bones and
teeth.  Other milk products, including cheese, cottage cheese, yogurt
and ice cream, may be substituted for some of the milk.
   2)  MEAT, POULTRY, FISH AND BEANS -- Two or more servings
are needed daily to provide iron for red blood cells and additional
protein for body tissues.
 
3)  VEGETABLES AND FRUITS -- At least four servings are needed   alrtdntal      
each day to provide vitamins and minerals.  A good source of vitamin
C is important, and it can be citrus fruits, melons tomatoes or greens.
Dark green and yellow vegetables or fruits provide vitamin A, which is
also needed.  Foods that contain vitamin A are carrots, spinach,
squash or apricots.
   4). BREADS AND CEREALS -- You should eat five or six servings
of whole grain or enriched breads and cereals each day so you'll have
the energy, B vitamins and minerals you need. Whole grain products
also provide fiber, which helps to prevent constipation.
   A fifth group of foods is labeled FATS, SWEETS AND ALCOHOL.
Alcohol should be avoided during pregnancy.  Candy, soft drinks and
other sweets may be eaten once in awhile.  If you need extra calories,
you should use margarine, butter oils or salad dressing to complete
your meals.
   By eating well and taking care of yourself, you can help yourself
have a safe pregnancy and a happy, healthy baby.  Your nutritional
needs reflect both your own requirements and those of your developing
baby.
   For more information about nutrition, call the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Using Low-Calorie Sweeteners. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


           Teletip 2550
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2550, "Using Low-Calorie Sweeteners."
   People who want to cut calories often ask about preparing foods
with low-calorie sweeteners.  Because low-calorie sweeteners don't
provide the same
bulk as sugar, and because they don't have its stabilizing or
preservative quality, sometimes you need to use special recipes.
   Low-calorie sweeteners may often be substituted for sugar in such
recipes as puddings, custards, gelatins, salad dressings, fruit fillings
and sauces just by using the substitution tables that come with the
substitute sweeteners.  These equivalents will vary from product to
product, so be sure you use the amount stated on the individual
product.
   Foods like frozen desserts, jellies, jam, candies and baked goods
usually require specially developed recipes.  Simple substitution of low-
calorie sweeteners in these foods usually doesn't produce an acceptable
product.
   Because the low-calorie sweeteners don't have the preservative
quality of sugar, jams and jellies made with low-calorie sweeteners
must be refrigerated after opening.  Baked products may mold within a
short time.
   Two of the low-calorie sweeteners on the market today are
aspartame and saccharin.  Aspartame cannot be used in cooking or
baking, but it can be used to sweeten products which don't require
heating.  Saccharin is stable under heat, so it can be used in baking
and cooking.
   Manufacturers of low-calorie sweeteners provide recipes for using
their products in many food items.  You may also request them from
the companies.
   You can get more information about food and nutrition from the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Using Egg Substitutes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2551
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2551, "Using Egg Substitutes."
   People who are on diets designed to lower their blood cholesterol
levels usually may eat no more than 3 egg yolks a week.  Egg yolks
are very rich sources of cholesterol, but egg whites have no
cholesterol.
   Because so many cooked and baked foods contain egg yolks,
restricting egg yolks to only 3 a week may be difficult.  By preparing
foods at home, you may be able to solve this problem.  In some
recipes, you may be able to omit the egg yolks.  In others, you may
need to use an egg substitute.
   Commercial egg substitutes are made of egg whites, vegetable oil
and a few other ingredients to provide a product which is similar to
eggs in appearance and nutrient content (except for the cholesterol).
The usual substitution is one-fourth cup of the egg substitute for one
large egg.  You can get recipes using egg substitutes by writing the
companies who make them.
   You can make egg substitutes at home, too.  Homemade egg
substitutes are less expensive and just as satisfactory.  They also have
few calories.  Here's a low cholesterol egg substitute recipe:
   1 tablespoon of nonfat dry milk powder
   2 egg whites from large eggs
   4 drops of yellow food color

   Sprinkle powdered milk over egg whites, then beat them with fork
until smooth.  Add food color, and beat until blended.  This makes
one-fourth cup, which is equal to 1 large egg.  If you use this
homemade substitute for scrambled eggs, cook it in vegetable oil or
margarine so the eggs won't be too dry.          You can get more
information about food, nutrition and diets from the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Vegetables in the Diet. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2552
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2552, "Vegetables in the Diet."
   Vegetables are a valuable part of your diet.  Along with the variety
they add to meals with their colors and textures, vegetables provide
many necessary vitamins and minerals.  Without these vitamins and
minerals, the other essential nutrients...including protein, carbohydrates
and fats, cannot be used properly by your body.
   Vitamin A is necessary for growth, healthy skin and good vision.
You get vitamin A from dark-green and deep-yellow vegetables such as
greens, spinach, broccoli, carrots and sweet potatoes.
   Vitamin C helps your body resist infection and it helps wounds to
heal.  You may think that you get vitamin C only from citrus
fruits...but, many vegetables...such as greens, broccoli, green pepper,
Brussels sprouts and tomatoes are good sources of vitamin C.
   Also, in addition to being good sources of vitamins A and C, dark-
green vegetables are valued for the riboflavin, folacin, iron and
magnesium they contain.  These vitamins and minerals are needed to
form enzymes which change food into energy and help to maintain
body functions.
   Certain greens...including collards, kale, mustard, turnips and
dandelion, provide calcium.  Calcium is a mineral and it is needed for
strong bones and teeth, proper nerve and muscle activity, wound
healing and blood clotting.
 
So, as you can see, vegetables provide a lot of the essential   ed for,tes      
vitamins and minerals your body needs.  But, vegetables do even
more...they add to the fiber in your diet which helps keep your
digestive system healthy and prevents constipation.
   Vegetables may lose some of their nutritional value when they're
exposed to heat, air or water...so, the way you cook vegetables is very
important.  Here are some general suggestions for cooking vegetables
which should help preserve, as much as possible, the flavor, texture,
color, and nutritional value.
   Whenever it's feasible, eat your vegetables unpeeled.  However, if
you must peel them, store them in airtight containers in the
refrigerator.
   Steam or boil vegetables in as little water as possible to preserve
those vitamins which dissolve in water.  Also, bring the water to a
boil before you put in the vegetables.
   Use cooking charts or package directions for appropriate cooking
times.  Vegetables should be slightly crisp when done.  Undercook
vegetables slightly if they're to be recooked in a sauce.
   To preserve the color of green vegetables, cook them uncovered for
several minutes at the beginning of the cooking time.
   Finally, baking soda destroys vitamin activity and should not be
added to vegetables when you're cooking them.
   If you want more information and suggestions about diet and
nutrition, or if you would like to receive the free pamphlets
"Nutrition--Food at Work for You," or "Hassle-Free Food Guide," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
What is a Balanced Diet? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2553
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2553, "What is a Balanced Diet?"
   Should you take vitamins or can your body get the nutrients it
needs from the foods you eat?  If you include foods from the basic
food groups in your diet, you can get the nutrients you need, and
your body will have the fuel and materials it needs.  Eating properly
can make a big difference in the way you look and feel.
   Eating properly involves three main steps:  1) learning about the
nutrients you need and which foods contain them, 2) using your
knowledge to plan meals and snacks wisely, and 3) actually eating the
foods you plan to eat.
   The groups of foods which make up a well-balanced diet fall into
four main groups:  the vegetable and fruit group, the bread and cereal
group, the milk and cheese group, and the meat, poultry, fish and
bean group.  Let's look at each group.
   The vegetable and fruit group:  Vegetables and fruits are high in
vitamins and minerals, usually low in fats and contain no cholesterol.
Eat at least four servings from the vegetable and fruit group each
day.  A serving would be an orange, half of a cantaloupe, a small
salad or a medium-sized potato.
   Citrus fruits, melons, berries, raw cabbage and tomatoes offer
vitamin C.  Vitamin C is needed every day to manufacture the material
which holds body cells together.  Eat a serving of dark green or
yellow vegetables every day, too, because they contain vitamin A,
which is needed for healthy skin and night vision. 
The bread and cereal group:  Whole-grain and enriched breads and                
cereals have B vitamins, which you need for digestion and general
body functions.  Whole-grain and enriched breads and cereals also
contain iron for building red bloods cells, and they are good sources
of trace minerals and fiber.  Eat four servings of breads and cereals
daily.  A serving is one slice of bread, one-half to three-fourths cup
of cooked cereal or pasta or one ounce of ready-to-eat cereal.
   The milk and cheese group:  The milk and cheese group includes
whole milk, lowfat milk, skim milk and nonfat dry milk, cheese,
cottage cheese, ice cream and yogurt.  These foods provide protein for
building and repairing body tissues and calcium for forming bones and
teeth.  Adults need to eat two servings from this group each day.
Children need three servings and teens, pregnant women and nursing
mothers need four servings.  A serving is one cup of milk or plain
yogurt, one and one-third ounces of cheddar or Swiss cheese, one and
one-half cups of ice cream or two cups of cottage cheese.
   The meat, poultry, fish and bean group:  The meat, poultry, fish
and bean group contains protein for building and repairing as well as
other valuable vitamins and minerals.  Red meats and dry beans
provide iron, which is important for building red blood cells.  Fish and
poultry usually have less fat than red meats.
   Eat two servings from the meat group each day.  One serving is
two to three ounces of lean, boneless cooked meat, poultry or fish;
two eggs; one and one-half cups of cooked dry peas, beans or lentils;
and four tablespoons of peanut butter.  
There is a fifth group of foods called the fats, sweets and alcohol             
group.  This group includes butter and margarine, which supply some
vitamin A, and vegetable oils which provide vitamin E and essential
fatty acids.  Other items in this group are mayonnaise, salad dressings,
sugar, honey, jelly, candy, sweetened beverages and alcoholic
beverages.  Slow down on this group.  These foods provide calories
but few vitamins, minerals and protein.
   Eat right and you can get the nutrients you need from the foods
you eat.
   If you would like more information about proper nutrition or if you
would like to have a free pamphlet called "The Hassle-Free Daily Food
Guide," call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Seafood Nutrition. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2554
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2554, "Seafood Nutrition."
   Not only is seafood delicious, but it's nutritious as well. It's a
delightful addition to any meal and is an excellent, low-calorie source
of many essential nutrients.
   Seafood contains about twenty percent of the high quality proteins
as red meat and poultry.  It is also low in fat -- and most of the fat
it has is poly-unsaturated.
   Because many diets now specify  poly-unsaturated fat, rather than
saturated fat, fish and shellfish make excellent main dishes.  Some fish
are relatively high in fat such as salmon, mackerel and catfish.
However, the fat is primarily unsaturated.
   The cholesterol content of most fish is similar to red meat and
poultry--
 about twenty milligrams per ounce.  Some shellfish contain more
cholesterol than red meat.  However, because the fat is mainly poly-
unsaturated, shellfish may be allowed for some fat and cholesterol-
restricted diets.
   Fish is also a good source of "B" Vitamins -- "B-6", "B-12", biotin
and niacin.  Vitamin "A" is found mainly in fish liver oils, but some
high fat fish are good sources of Vitamin "A".
   Fish is a good source of several minerals -- especially iron,
phosphorus, potassium and zinc.  Canned fish with edible bones, such
as salmon or sardines, are also good sources of calcium.
   Oysters are a good source of iron and copper, which are both
needed for the formation of red blood cells.
   Salt water fish and shellfish are also excellent sources of idoine --
 the mineral needed to prevent goiter.
        Because the sodium content of most fresh fish is low, it can
be included in low-sodium diets.  Shellfish contains larger amounts of
sodium, however, and is usually restricted on low-sodium diets.
   For more on seafood nutrition, contact the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Buying and Thawing a Turkey. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/27/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 2602
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 2602,
"Buying and Thawing a Turkey."
   One of the first things that should be said about buying a turkey
is...buy it well in advance of when you plan to cook it because the
turkey you buy will probably be frozen and it takes takes a long time
to correctly thaw a frozen turkey.  I'll have details on how to thaw a
frozen turkey in a few minutes.
   The turkey you buy in the grocery store today is the result of
improved production methods and the tenderness of the bird depends
primarily on its age and how it's handled before it's cooked.  Often
you may see tom turkeys priced differently than hen turkeys...but,
there is no real difference in the tenderness of the two.
   Whether you're buying a tom or a hen, look for the word "young"
on the label.  These young turkeys are best for roasting.  The
tenderness of your turkey can be influenced by the way you cook
it...how dry it is and to some extent, the amount of natural fat in the
turkey.
   Knowing what size turkey to buy may be a problem for you if you
don't buy one very often.  In most cases, large turkeys are more
economical and provide left-overs for future meals.
   Large, whole turkeys or half turkeys are usually better buys than
small ones for two reasons.  First, you pay less per pound for large
turkeys than for small turkeys.  Second, large turkeys have a higher
proportion of meat to bone than do small turkeys.
 
For example, a fifteen-pound turkey will provide twice as many   herthe-        
servings as a ten-pound bird because of the larger proportion of meat
to bone.  When you buy a turkey that weighs twelve pounds or less
you should figure about three-quarters of a pound for each serving.
When you buy a turkey that weighs more than twelve pounds you
should figure about one-half to three-quarters of a pound per serving.
The serving size in these calculations is three-ounces of edible meat.
   All turkeys shipped across state lines must be federally inspected
for wholesomeness and labeled with the government stamp.  While the
grading as A, B, and C, is not mandatory, it is a good guide.  Many
brands carry the grade shield.  Most turkeys in retail stores are Grade
A.
   When you're shopping for a turkey, make sure the store's freezer
case is at zero degres or below.  Don't buy frozen turkeys stacked
above the load line in the freezer or those packed in ice in the aisle
displays.
   Look for undamaged wrappings because exposure to air dehydrates
the meat and impairs the quality.  Select the size turkey you need for
the occasion or plan left-overs for the freezer.  You can save money
by basting your own turkey.  Those advertised as "self-basting" cost
more than those which are unbasted.
    As I mentioned earlier, you should buy your turkey well in
advance of when you plan to cook it because it takes a long time to
thaw one the way it should be thawed...in fact, it may take from one-
to-three days.
   Thaw the bird in its original wrapper on a tray in the
refrigerator... never thaw a turkey at room temperature.  It's
important that you keep the frozen turkey's outer surface cool during
thawing to prevent bacterial growth on the outside while the inside is
still cold.
 
If you have only hours instead of days to thaw your turkey, you   e ise-        
can get two large brown paper bags...the kind grocery stores use.  Put
the turkey in one of the grocery bags...then, put that bag inside the
empty one...open end first.  This keeps the cold air inside the bag and
keeps the surface of the turkey cool while the inside of the bird
thaws.  Thawing time for a turkey that weighs eight-to-twelve pound
turkey should be only ten-to-twelve hours.
   Another quick and safe method for thawing a turkey is to use cold
tap water.  Put the turkey in the sink or in a pan and cover it with
cold tap water.
Change the water often.  This way the turkey will thaw in six to eight hours.
Keep the bird in the original wrapper and as soon as the bird is pliable, remove
the package of giblets and the neck which are wrapped and stored inside the
body cavity.  Refrigerate or freeze the giblets immediately if you're not going to
use them right away.
   For more food buying information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Buying and Storing Cottage Cheese. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/20/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                             Tele-Tip
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2603,
"Buying and Storing Cottage Cheese."
   Fresh, wholesome cottage cheese is the easiest, low-cost way to
add to your meals the protein of milk with relatively few calories.
This simplest form of cheese is digested easily, too.  Another plus...it's
ready to eat as it comes from the container.
   Cottage cheese is made from high quality pasteurized skim milk or
from reconstituted skim milk made from nonfat dry milk.  This low-
calorie favorite is rich in important nutrients.  One-half cup of
cottage cheese has almost twice as much protein as a cup of milk and
about three-fourths as much riboflavin.  An average serving of one-
half cup has only 120 calories and about as much protein as three
eggs, a serving of lean meat or three slices of cheddar cheese.
   There's a variety of cottage cheeses available...creamed cottage
cheese, low-fat cottage cheese, or uncreamed or dry cottage cheese.
You can buy it as large or small curd and either salted or unsalted.
Read the label on the cottage cheese package when you're trying to
decide which type to buy.
   I mentioned small curd and large curd cottage cheese...here's what
that means.  The small curd cottage cheese...sometimes called "country
style"...has a curd which has been heated long enough to be quite
firm.  It holds its shape and is particularly good for salad making.  A
scoop of this small curd cottage cheese in the center of a fruit
plate...or mounded in a peach, or or tomato makes an attractive and
tasty dish.
 
Now, the large curd cottage cheese is made the same was as the   nd.  At'sgoing 
small curd type...except that it's heated for a shorter time and is cut
with larger cutters.  So, the result is large, soft curds that mix easily
with other foods.  Large curd cottage cheese is best for dip since a
softer curd beats up quickly and makes a smooth dish.
   Creamed cottage cheese, which was also mentioned earlier has a
creaming mixture added to it...and this mixture has a minimum of 4%
milkfat.
   Lowfat cottage cheese has a creaming mixture of not less than .5%
and not more than 2% milkfat.
   And Uncreamed or dry cottage cheese has less than .5% milkfat.
   Cottage cheese cartons are marked with a "pull date," the last date
it should be sold as a fresh, high-quality product.  The pull date is
planned to allow for several days of storage in a home refrigerator.
Cottage cheese is at its peak flavor when used soon after purchase.
Store it only a short time, and make sure the container is covered
tightly.
   You can use cottage cheese in many refreshing ways...with spices
and seasonings...with any fresh, dried, canned or frozen fruit...with
crisp, tangy vegetables...with meat, fish, eggs or other dairy products.
   Cottage cheese-filled pancakes are a delicious breakfast dish, a
good luncheon dish and a tasty dessert.  You can also use cottage
cheese on sandwiches in place of mayonnaise.  You might want to
make up your own recipes using cottage cheese.  It's versatile and
nutritious.
   For more information and suggestions about food buying, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Defrosting Your Freezer. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2903
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2903, "Defrosting Your Freezer."
   A thick layer of frost makes your freezer work less efficiently.
High temperatures and humidity will make the problem worse.  If frost
builds to more than one-quarter of an inch on freezer walls, it's time
to defrost the freezer.
   For routine defrosting, you don't need to turn off the electricity.
Transfer frozen items to the refrigerator or wrap them together in
several layers or newspaper and put them in an insulated picnic cooler.
Or, move them to one side of the freezer while you scrape off and
scoop out excess frost with a plastic scraper or wooden paddle.  Never
use an ice pick or electric defroster which might damage the inside of
the unit.
   Every once in a while, you need to defrost the unit completely and
clean it.  Choose a time when the freezer is nearly empty, if possible.
To defrost the freezer completely, unplug the freezer.  Remove frozen
foods and wrap them in several layers of newspapers.  Cover packages
with a blanket or put them in a picnic cooler.  Food will stay frozen
for several hours if temperatures aren't too high.  If temperatures are
extremely high, add dry ice.
   Remove storage baskets and food dividers, wash in warm, sudsy
water, rinse and dry.  If freezer has a defrost water drain, connect
the hose adaptor to the drain.  Place a flat pan under the drain or
direct the water hose to a convenient drain.
   You can speed the defrosting by placing pans of warm water inside
the freezer or by directing air from an electric fan or vacuum cleaner
exhaust into the freezer. Scrape off the rest of the frost with a
plastic or wooden scraper.  Never use a sharp object or an electrical
defroster.
 
After all the frost melts, wash the box with a solution of warm   calre.ysgoing 
water and baking soda, using one tablespoon of soda in a quart of
water.  Rinse with clear water and wipe dry with soft cloths or paper
towels.  Turn the current on, and let the freezer cool for 30 minutes
or more before replacing frozen food.
   Freezers differ in their construction and their procedures for
defrosting.  If you have a question and you no longer have the manual
to consult, send the model number of your freezer to the manufacturer
and ask for the proper booklet.  The model number is stamped on your
freezer.
   You can get more information on the proper care and use of the
appliances in your home from the home economist in your parish office
of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                -30
-End-
-Title-
Buying and Using Dry Beans and Peas. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2604
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2604,
"Buying and Using Dry Beans and Peas."
   Dry beans and peas have been and still are good food bargains.
For only eight cents per serving, they provide a good source of
protein, versatility to menus and good nutrition.
   There are several kinds of dry beans and peas.  For instance, there
are red kidney beans which are popular because they can be used in
soups, stews, casseroles, and salads.
   Black-eye peas are a Southern favorite and are especially good
when you serve them with ham or chicken...and, of course, they're a
favorite "good luck" food on New Year's Day.
   The term "navy bean" refers to several varieties of white beans.
These beans are used in soups, and casseroles such as baked beans.
   There are large and baby lima beans.  The large limas have a
buttery flavor and are often referred to as "butter beans."  Large
limas keep their shape well during cooking.  They're also excellent in
casseroles and soups, and served with smoked meats and cheese.
   The pinto bean is popular...especially for Mexican dishes.
   The black bean is popular for South American and Cuban dishes
and makes delicious black bean soup.
   You can use most of these beans for many kinds of dishes or you
can serve them alone.  Most recipes calling for beans are
adaptable...so, even though a recipe may call for a certain bean, you
may be able to easily substitute another kind.
 
Even though beans are vegetables, their high protein content   n, youne.ysgoing 
requires that they be classified with meat, poultry and fish.
Everybody needs two servings per day from the meat, poultry, fish and
bean group. With the rising costs of almost everything, including food,
you may be able to save some money and still serve protein-rich foods
by substituting dried beans and peas for some meats.
   A cup of cooked beans will provide you with about one-fourth of
the day's requirement for protein.  You can increase the value of this
protein by combining beans with small amounts of meat, eggs, or by
serving it with a grain like corn, rice, or wheat.  So, you have
combinations such as red beans and rice, chili with beans, tortillas
with beans, or cornbread and black-eye peas.
   Dry beans are also important sources of B vitamins, iron, and
calcium.  Another good thing about dry beans is that they are low in
fat and cholesterol.  And, you've probably heard a lot lately about the
importance of dietary fiber in your diet.  Beans are an important
source of fiber...which helps you maintain a healthy digestive tract.
   For more food buying information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying and Using Produce. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/25/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2605
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2605,
"Buying and Using Produce."
   Whether you buy fruits and vegetables in peak season or in the
off-season, there are a few things you should keep in mind to get the
most for your money.
   First, buy only the amount you need because fresh fruits and
vegetables are perishable.
   Select fruits and vegetables that are mature, ripe, well-colored, and
free of bruises, punctures and decay.  At the produce counter, you are
your own best judge of quality.  It's there that you can smell  and
hold the product before you make your choice.
   You should shop for fruits and vegetables carefully.  Don't buy
damaged fruits and vegetables even if the price is low.  Handle
produce carefully because someone must pay for produce the grocer
loses.  In the long run, it may be you.
   Try to make the most of the produce you buy.  Important nutrients
can literally evaporate if you keep fruits and vegetables too long.
This is why it's so important for you to store your produce as soon as
possible.
   Your vegetables can lose a lot of vitamins and minerals if they're
cooked for too long in too much water.  Remember, cook your
vegetables for as short a time as possible in as little water as
possible.  Vitamin C is especially water soluble and more likely to be
lost if you're not careful.  Try to save the water that you cook the
vegetables in and use it in gravies, sauces and soups.
 
Whenever you can, cook vegetables such as potatoes in their skins   bendysgoing 
and serve cucumbers with the peeling.  Nutrients in vegetables and
fruits are stored close to the skin or peel.  If you absolutely must
peel your produce, make the peeling as thin as possible.
   For more food buying information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying and Storing Apples. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2606
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2606,
"Buying and Storing Apples."
   Fresh apples, rich in food value and low in calories, are available
all year.
   Here are some tips to help you choose and store apples:
   --Select apples according to the way you will use them.  Favorites
for eating raw are:  Delicious, Jonathon, McIntosh and Winesap.
Varieties with a tart or slightly acid taste--such as Jonathon--are fine
for making pies or applesauce.
   --Use firm-fleshed varieties for baking.  These include Rome Beauty
or Winesap.
   --For the best prices, buy apples when they're plentiful.  But buy
only enough to use or store without waste.  Well-shaped apples with
few blemishes or soft spots are good buys.
   --To keep apples crisp and tasty, store them in a cool, moist place.
If the storage area is too warm, apples will become soft and mealy.
Keep small quantities in the refrigerator.  Don't store them near foods
with strong flavors.  Also, keep apples away from dairy products,
potatoes and onions because these foods may absorb flavor from the
fruit.
   For more food buying information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying Canned Convenience Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2607
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2607,
"Buying Canned Convenience Foods."
   A well-stocked food pantry can help a homemaker serve tasty,
nutritious meals and yet have time for leisure activities.
   Convenient canned foods offer variety and ease of preparation.
   When you're buying canned foods, follow these pointers:
   --Check store ads and take advantage of sales on canned foods you
serve often.
   --Select the size which suits your needs.  Large sizes, which
usually cost less, aren't a bargain if some of the food spoils before
you use it.
   --Choose the quality you need.  Top quality foods are fine when
appearance is important.  In a casserole or cobbler, lower priced foods
are just as nutritious and tasty.
   --Read labels and compare prices.  Unit pricing will help you do
this.  Labels also show the ingredients of combination foods in order
of predominance.
   --Store your canned goods in an orderly way in a place that is
warm, but not hot, and where they can't freeze.  Canned goods have a
long shelf life, but move older cans to the front so you can use them
first.
   --Never use bloated or leaking cans.  If you brought home a
suspicious-looking can, return it to the store and it will be replaced.
   These simple rules can help you stretch your food dollar.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Make Your Food Dollars Go Further," call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Buying Carcass Beef. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2608
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2608,
"Buying Carcass Beef."
   Buying extra meat to freeze when prices are attractive can be
convenient and economical.  But buying meat wholesale in quantity to
last three to six months isn't always wise.
   Here are some reasons to be careful when buying meat in quantity:
   --Advertised prices for wholesale meat usually refer to total weight
before cutting into edible portions.  Butchers usually count on losing
about 1/3 of a carcass in boning, trimming, shrinking and other
cutting losses.  More careful studies estimate the cutting loss to be
between 25 and 30 percent.  A 300-pound side of beef will yield about
225 pounds of usable meat.
   --The division of the 300-pound carcass can affect the buyer's
satisfaction, too.  An average side of beef yields about one-fourth
steaks of all kinds, one-fourth roasts, one-fourth ground beef and
stew meat, and one-fourth waste.
   --Always ask if cutting, wrapping and freezing costs are included
in the advertised price or if there is an extra charge.  Meat must be
frozen quickly.  It's best to have the freezing done by a commercial
facility than to rely on a home freezer.
   --Consider the safe period of storage.  Beef wrapped securely in
moisture- and vapor-proof freezer paper will remain in good condition
for nine months to a year at zero degrees Fahrenheit.  Not all meat
will keep this long.  Use ground beef and stew meat within four
months and pork, within six months.  Smoked meats will lose quality
after six to eight weeks.
   --Always figure cash and credit costs when buying wholesale.
Buying on credit can cancel any savings in price. --Be sure you have
enough freezer room to store the added quantity.
   --Consider family likes and dislikes when buying meat wholesale.
If your family doesn't eat all of the various cuts, or if the meat will
not be eaten within the safe storage period, buying meat in quantity
may not be a good idea.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Buying Beef For Your Freezer," call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying Cheese. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2609
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2609,
"Buying Cheese."
   Labels can help you learn the differences between cheese products.
Cheese is a common item on most grocery lists, but sometimes a
shopper selects cheese without reading and understanding the label.
   Cheese products may look alike on the shelf, but there are
differences in the production and contents of each product.  Learn to
understand the differences.  Then you can buy the right kind for your
use and perhaps try a new kind.
   Natural cheese, which starts with fresh milk, is produced by
separating milk solids from milk and curdling it with a bacteria
culture.  The curd is then separated from the whey and aged to
produce a variety of cheeses.
   The length of aging, or ripening, determines whether the cheese is
mild, medium or sharp.  The longer the aging, the richer the flavor
and the higher the cost.
   The production of pasteurized process cheese starts with a blend of
fresh and aged natural cheeses.  They are shredded, mixed and heated
to blend and develop a uniform flavor, body and texture.  The blend
may be one or more varieties of natural cheese and may contain
pimentos, fruits, vegetables or meats.  A smoked flavor may be added,
too.
   Add the word "food" to pasteurized process cheese and you have a
different product.  Cheese food is like process cheese, but it contains
less cheese and more nonfat dry milk or whey solids and water.  It
has a lower milk fat content and more moisture than process cheese.
   Cheese food is milder in flavor, soft and spreads easily.  It melts
quickly because of the higher moisture content.  It may contain other
ingredients and have a smoked flavor, too.
   Pasteurized process cheese spread is made like processed cheese
food but is higher in moisture and has a lower milk fat content.  It is
more spreadable than most cheese and may contain flavoring.
   Cheese is a good source of protein.  Add it to main dishes, salads
and sauces.  Serve it with fruit and crackers for a nutritional snack.
It's high in nutrition because it's a concentrated form of milk.
   For more information and suggestions about buying food or for a
free pamphlet called "What's New with Cheese," or "Cheese in Family
Meals," call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                                in your parish office of the LSUilyck.seysgoing 
-End-
-Title-
Buying Ground Beef. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2611
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2611,
"Buying Ground Beef."
   Ground beef is popular and usually costs less than many other
common meats.  It takes a smart shopper and an informed consumer,
however, to choose the best buys.
   The price of ground beef is usually affected by the fat content.
Consider taste and shrinkage when selecting ground beef.
   Products labeled "hamburger" or "ground beef" may contain up to 30
percent fat.  But hamburger may have seasoning or fat added from
other cuts; ground beef cannot contain either.  Because these meats
are highest in fat among ground beef products, use them for
hamburgers, spaghetti sauce, chili and Sloppy Joes.
   Meat labeled "ground chuck" comes from the primal chuck cut of
the beef.  It is usually leaner than hamburger or ground beef.  Ground
chuck will shrink less in cooking, but it has enough fat for good
flavor and juiciness.  It's good for Salisbury steak or beef burgers.
   "Ground round" is the leanest type of ground beef.  It's more
expensive but is good for low-calorie diets and special combination
dinner dishes.
   People often choose "ground sirloin" for special recipes and deluxe
hamburgers.  Many find ground chuck very similar to the more
expensive ground sirloin.  Before you spend extra money for sirloin,
try ground chuck and see if it suits your needs. 
For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free                  
pamphlet called "Your Beef Buying Guide," call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying Ham. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2612
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2612,
"Buying Ham."
   Ham is a favorite because it is easy to prepare and goes well with
a variety of foods and menus.
   If ham is fully cooked, the label will say so.  If the label makes no
distinction, cook the ham before you eat it.  Fully cooked hams may
be served without more cooking, but heating to an internal
temperature of 140 degrees F improves flavor and texture.
   When ham is cut into portions, the center section may be removed
and sold separately as ham steaks or center-cut slices.  The ends are
sold as "shank end" or "butt end."  Usually the shank portion has
more bone and the butt, more meat.  No slices are removed from the
half hams labeled "shank half" or "butt half."
   A picnic is not really a ham, since it is cut from the shoulder and
not from the hind leg.  It usually has more waste and fat and may
require longer cooking.
   Think in terms of servings per pound to get the best buy.  It's the
price per serving that counts.  A boneless ham will give three or four
servings a pound, and a bone-in ham two or three servings.
   "Water Added" on a label means only that the ham has retained
extra water from the curing process.  This moisture gives a juicier
ham. 
Store whole or half hams in the refrigerator at 40 degrees F or                 
lower for no longer than a week.  Canned hams may be kept,
unopened, for up to six months in the refrigerator.  Freezing hams for
long periods is not recommended because the salt used in curing can
speed flavor changes.  If you must freeze ham, wrap it in moisture-
proof wrap, seal it tightly and freeze for one or two months.
   For more information and suggestions about buying food, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Buying Meat. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2613
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2613,
"Buying Meat."
   More than one-third of the money spent on food goes for meat,
poultry and fish.  To get the most for your food dollars, review your
meat-buying practices.  Here are some tips to help you:
   --Study the specials.  Sometimes chicken may be the best buy.  At
other times, the best buy might be ham, pork or beef.
   --Select the cuts and kinds of meat, poultry and fish that give the
most lean meat for the money.  Compare meats on a cost-per-serving
basis, not cost per pound.
   --Serve smaller amounts of meat, poultry and fish by combining
them with more economical foods such as potatoes, rice, macaroni,
noodles and breads.
   --Look for bargains.  Buy for future use if your budget allows, but
don't overbuy.  Prices change frequently.
   --Plan meals ahead.  For example, stew more chicken than you
need for one meal.  Freeze it to use later for chicken dishes, salads
or sandwiches.  Use the broth for soup.  Or buy ham on special and
use it for meals, casseroles or sandwiches; save the bone and drippings
for soup or beans.
   --Check the amount of service you're paying for.  An unsliced
roast usually costs less than one that is sliced and tied.  Whole
chicken is usually a better buy than chicken parts.  A whole turkey
usually provides more meat than boned, rolled turkey roast.
   --Use meat substitutes for some meals, but try to serve at least
one serving of meat, poultry or fish daily.  Meat substitutions include
eggs, dry beans, dry peas, peanut butter and cheese. 
--Study your total shopping list and purchases.  Make sure you're               
not spending money on nonessentials that might be spent for good,
nutritious foods your family needs.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Make Your Food Dollars Go Further," call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying Milk. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2614
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2614,
"Buying Milk."
   Are you confused by the different kinds of milk available?  Don't
be.  Each has a purpose.  Read the labels and decide which kind of
milk suits your needs best.
   Whole milk has at least 8.25 percent nonfat milk solids, the source
of milk protein, minerals, and all the milk vitamins except vitamin A.
It has at least 3.5 percent fat -- the source of vitamin A.  Milk sold
in Louisiana has vitamin D added.  One cup of whole milk has 150
calories.
   Lowfat milk has 1 to 2 percent fat.  Read the label to see what
the percentage of fat is --1, 1+ or 2 percent.  All lowfat milk sold in
Louisiana is fortified with vitamins A and D.  Lowfat milk contains at
least 8.25 percent nonfat milk solids.  If it is labeled protein fortified
or high protein, then it has 10 percent nonfat milk solids.  The
number of calories in one cup will depend on the percentage of milk
fat and nonfat milk solids in the milk.  You'll have to read the label
to find out.
   Skim milk has had most of the fat removed.  It contains less than
1/2 of one percent milk fat.  It's fortified with vitamins A and D.  It
must contain not less than 8.25 percent nonfat milk solids.  If
additional solids, not fat, are added to reach the 10 percent level, it
must be labeled "protein fortified."  One cup has about 90 calories.
 
Cultured buttermilk is made by adding a special bacterial culture to   ied      
skim or lowfat milk to produce the desirable acidity, body, flavor and
aroma.  Salt is usually added.  Buttermilk has the same food value as
the milk from which it is made.  One cup averages about 90 calories.
The yellow flecks in some buttermilk are bits of real butter added for
flavor.  This buttermilk will be labeled "contains butter particles."  It
will be higher in calories.  Read the label for calorie information.
   Sweet acidiphilus milk is available in some parts of Louisiana.  It is
milk to which the bacteria lactobacillus acidophilus has been added.
Lowfat is used most often.  This milk tastes the same and has the
same nutritional value as the milk from which it is made.  This isn't a
substitute for those who are allergic to cow's milk.  But, people who
haven't been able to drink milk because of their inability to digest
milk sugar can now drink sweet acidophilus milk without suffering
from gas, cramps, or diarrhea.
   Chocolate milk is made by adding chocolate or cocoa and sweetener
to whole milk.
   Chocolate lowfat milk is made by adding chocolate or cocoa and
sweetener to lowfat milk.
   Chocolate drink is made by adding chocolate or cocoa and
sweetener to skim milk.  Adding chocolate adds calories, by the way.
   There are several imitation milks on the market now.  They are
usually advertised as containing no cholesterol or animal fat.  This is
true, but coconut oil is the source of fat in most of these products.
Ninety percent of the fatty acids in coconut oil are saturated, but
regular milk fat has only 60 percent saturated fatty acids.  If you
must restrict milk fat because of a cholesterol problem, replace whole
milk with skim milk.
 
Milk is a good buy economically and nutritionally.  Budget-minded   lesisd      
shoppers can find ways to save on milk purchases though.  Buy milk
in the largest size practical for your situation.  A larger container
usually means a lower price per quart.  If price is a real concern, use
instant nonfat dry milk.  It's the most economical.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Dairy Food Facts and Milk in Family Meals," call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Buying Pears. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2615
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2615,
"Buying Pears."
   Don't choose pears according to their color.  Color isn't a reliable
guide to their ripeness.  Some varieties are in prime condition when
they're green or greenish-yellow.  Others may be yellow and not ripe
enough to eat.
   Unlike many fruits, pears must be ripened off the tree for best
flavor and texture.  Pears in stores are usually conditioned to be one
to three days from ripeness, so buy pears about three days before you
want to eat them.
   Select fresh pears that are firm or fairly firm, but not hard.  Look
for well-shaped fruit that is free of blemishes.
   Keep fresh pears in a paper bag.  Store them in a not-to-warm
place, preferably about 60 to 70 degrees.  Keep them in a paper bag
because ripening pears give off gases which help each other ripen.  A
small damp sponge or cotton pad tucked in the bag will supply
moisture and help prevent shriveling.
   If you want to hold pears, refrigerate them as soon as possible
after purchase.  Take them out to ripen two or three days before
needed.  Check pears daily.  Some ripen faster than others.  Bartletts,
in particular, ripen fast and are ready for eating when the skin is
golden.
   Pears are good choices for dessert.  Their sweet flavor is low in
calories---
 about 70 in a medium-sized pear.  They're also good on cereal or in
fruit salads.  Pears can be stewed, pickled or glazed, too.
   For more information and suggestions about buying food, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Buying and Storing Pecans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2616
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2616,
"Buying and Storing Pecans."
   Pecans are everyone's favorite nut meat.  The packaging and
treatment of pecans affect the time they remain high in quality.
Generally nuts in the shell keep better than shelled nuts.
   It takes roughly two pounds of pecans in the shell to get one
pound of nut meat.  One pound of shelled nuts measures about four
cups, but the size and condition of the nuts can make a difference in
the yield.  Whole nut meats give more cups per pound than halves,
pieces or chopped nuts.
   Buy nuts that are clean and free from scars, cracks and holes.
Shake nuts to see if the kernels rattle.  A kernel that rattles means
that the pecan is probably not well-filled.  Unshelled pecans keep well
at room temperature for four to eight months, but will keep in the
refrigerator for 18 to 36 months.
   When buying shelled nuts, choose plump, meaty nuts with a crisp,
brittle texture.  If they are to be used for garnish, try to get pecans
that are uniform in size and color.
   To preserve the freshness of shelled nuts, keep them in the
refrigerator in a tightly covered container.  Shelled pecans may last as
long as two months at room temperature, but they will keep as long
as two years at 40 degrees Fahrenheit if stored in freezer bags or
other tightly sealed containers.  Nuts are one of the few foods that
may be refrozen with safety and with no noticeable deterioration.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Louisiana Pecan--Using, Storing, Enjoying," call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying Strawberries. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/2/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2617
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2617,
"Buying Strawberries."
   Fresh strawberries have a short season.  Because strawberries don't
ripen after picking, you must select bright red berries to insure ripe,
freshly picked fruit with high food value.
   Strawberries are rich in vitamin C, a nutrient we need daily
because our bodies don't store it.  The fruit is especially attractive to
dieters because a cup of strawberries has only 55 calories.
   Flavor depends on variety and ripeness, not size.  Large berries
may be preferred for serving whole or to top a dessert.  Smaller
berries are fine for jams, jellies, preserves or for slicing.
   Buy clean berries.  Containers with red stains may indicate overripe
berries that are crushed.  If the caps are missing, berries may be
overripe and mushy.
   Strawberries require gentle handling.  Try to purchase them last
when you're shopping and take them right home. Plan to use
strawberries within two or three days.
   After you get the strawberries home, sort and discard damaged and
decayed berries.  Spread remaining berries on a flat dish or pan, cover
them with wax paper and refrigerate.
   Shortly before serving, wash berries gently and quickly in cold
water.  Remove caps when berries are clean and dry.
   Serve strawberries plain or add them to cereal.  Colorful, tasty
strawberries are good for salad plates or in fruit salads, cakes, pies,
pastries, hot breads, and preserves. 
For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free                  
pamphlet called "It's Strawberry Time," call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
_30
-End-
-Title-
Buying Yams. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/1/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2618
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2618,
"Buying Yams."
   Louisiana yams are one of the most nutritious foods you can serve
your family.
   For best results, choose yams that are smooth and plump.  They
should be fresh, bright, dry and clean.  Pick yams that are similar in
color and shape.  This will ensure uniform cooking and color.  Slight
scars on the skins do not injure the flesh, but avoid yams with wet,
soft decay spots.
   Unless they are treated, yams have a short life.  Most yams
reaching markets in early fall are uncured and these uncured yams are
not suitable for baking.  Buy them in small amounts and use them
soon after purchase.
   Yams coming to market in late fall and winter have been cured.
This lengthens their life without affecting their food value.  If you
have suitable storage space with cool temperatures and high humidity,
you can buy cured yams in larger quantities.  Sort yams often and
remove any with signs of spoilage.
   Canned yams should be kept in a cool place until opened.  Once
opened, canned yams should be covered and put in the refrigerator.
All canned yams are wholesome.  Read the label and choose the style,
amount and brand or grade you like.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Select Louisiana Yams," call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Coupon Clipping. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/1/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2619
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2619,
"Coupon Clipping."
   Shoppers who use coupons for discounts, refunds and other offers
can save as much as 10 to 15 percent on groceries and household
products.
   This makes it worth the time it takes to clip and use coupons from
daily newspapers, advertising supplements and magazines.  Sort or file
coupons by food or product group and note expiration dates.  Attach
coupons to your grocery list or take them with you in an envelope or
small plastic bag.
   Buying items just to use coupons doesn't save money.  Use coupons
only for items you ordinarily buy or use them to try a new product at
a savings.
   Even greater savings can result when you use coupons for items
already on special.  Also, some stores double the discounts on coupons
on certain days.
   Coupons, discounts, refunds and other offers are made by
manufactures of nationally-advertised brands.  Often, you will find
that store brands or generic brands cost less than national
brand...even with a discount.  It's most important to compare prices
when you're shopping.
   When time permits, compare prices in several stores so you'll get
the best buys regularly.  The extra time it takes to compare prices
and use coupons wisely pays off when you get to the checkout
counter.
   For more food buying information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Managing Food Dollars. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2620
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2620,
"Managing Food Dollars."
   The important job of feeding your family grows harder with rising
food prices.  Planning ahead can help you save money.
   The amount of money available at one time for shopping, the
frequency of shopping, and your storage facilities can affect your
planning and buying.
   Try these suggestions when you're planning meals and shopping:
   -- Check weekly food ads and take advantage of specials on in-
season fruits and vegetables.
   -- Consider nutritional needs.  Each family member needs foods
from the four basic food groups:  meats, vegetables and fruits, milk,
bread, and cereals.  The amounts will depend on the ages of your
family members.
   --Check foods on hand in your freezer, refrigerator and shelves.
   -- Take into account your work schedule and the time you have for
food preparation.  If you don't have much time, you may be willing to
pay extra for convenience.
   -- Choose food in the most economical, convenient form.  This may
be fresh, frozen or canned.
   -- Try to improve your cooking skills.  The more you know about
cooking, the more economical and more interesting your meals will be.
   -- Use a shopping list that is flexible.  List similar foods together
and make a note of how much you need.
   -- Shop alone.  This helps you avoid unnecessary purchases.
   -- Shop after meals.  If you're full it is easier to resist impulse
buying. 
-- Compare the cost of generic brands,store brands, and national                
brands on a per serving basis.  Select the lowest cost item suitable
for your needs and your tastes.
   -- Use unit pricing information if it's available.  This can help you
compare costs at a glance.
   -- Substitute items that are not available with items that are
similar.  Buying a broiler instead of a fryer will make little difference
in your menu.
   -- Be sure frozen foods and meat items are bagged together.  This
helps these foods stay cold.  Go straight home after shopping so your
purchases can be stored properly as soon as possible.  Waste adds to
food costs.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Make Your Food Dollars Go Further," call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
service.

-End-
-Title-
Nutrition Labeling. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/20/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2622
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2622,
"Nutrition Labeling."
   The rapid development of new foods, new packaging and new
marketing methods makes it important for you to know the
nutritional content of the foods you buy.  Food labels can help you
make good choices in the supermarket.
   Most of the time, food labels will give you three kinds of
information...serving size and the number of servings...the number of
calories and grams of protein, carbohydrates and fats in each
serving...and the percentage of the U.S. Recommended Daily Allowances
for protein, five vitamins and two minerals found in each serving.
   The figures on the label are the minimum amount of nutrients the
product contains.  Use labels to figure the nutrient content of a
product or to figure out how an unfamiliar food might fit into your
diet.
   Labels can help when you're looking for the best nutritional buy,
too.  For example, you might check different brands to find out which
canned fruit offers the largest amount of vitamin C.
   If you're on a special diet, you may need to know how many
calories a food contains, or whether it is low in sodium.  If you're
concerned about cholesterol, you might want to know what kind of fat
a food contains.
   Most food manufacturers voluntarily include this kind of nutritional
information on their product labels.  Anytime a manufacturer claims
his food is "enriched" or "fortified"--or if he claims the food is high
is protein or low in fat--he must put a nutritional label on the item.
Look at the information on the label when you shop, so you'll know
what you are buying. 
For more information and suggestions about nutrition or buying                  
food, call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Reading Food Labels. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2624
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2624,
"Reading Food Labels."
   Labels on cans and packages serve as windows.  They give you the
inside facts and help you buy the product that is right for you and
your family.
   Reading labels helps you buy products for their intended use.  If
you're making soup, you don't need to buy whole fancy tomatoes.  You
can buy a less expensive kind because appearance won't be important.
   Reading labels helps you buy products that fit your budget.
Everyone needs vegetables, but there's a big price difference between
corn and asparagus.
   Labels help you buy the amount needed for your family.  Even
though a large size may cost less per ounce, it won't be a bargain
unless you use all of it.
   Reading labels lets you know what ingredients you're paying for.
The first ingredient listed is the one which occurs in the greatest
amount.  Be careful about products listing water as the first
ingredient.
   Reading labels helps you know how much convenience you're
buying.  Some pre-packaged dinners can be heated and served.  Others
need more ingredients.
   Labels give other valuable information, too.  Nutrition labeling must
appear on all fortified foods and all foods which make a nutritional
claim.  Many other foods carry nutrition labeling, too.  Nutrition
information includes calories, amount of protein, carbohydrates and
fats and percentages of seven vitamins and minerals needed for health
and well-being.  By reading and using nutrition labeling, you can plan
better meals, give your family a balanced diet, and select products
suited to special dietary needs.                 Most shoppers are
concerned about the quality of the food they buy.  The concept of
open dating gives you a general guide to product use.  Most dates on
products are a "pull" date -- the last permissible day of sale for that
item from its normal shelf position.  After that date, the item must be
pulled from regular sale.  This doesn't mean it is not good; it means
the product may not be at peak quality.
   To get the best results from food products, shop carefully.  Read
labels and transport and store foods properly.
   For more food buying information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Unit Pricing. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/1/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2625
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2625,
"Unit Pricing."
   If you understand unit pricing, you can tell what you're getting for
your food dollar.  The unit price of a product is the dollar and cent
cost per standard unit of weight or measurement:  the cost per pound,
quart, or number.  Many stores now have unit price labels on the edge
of the shelf under each product.
   Unit pricing is nothing new, nor is it required by law.  Some
products have carried unit pricing for years.  Meat, for example, has
been sold by the pound.  Many fresh vegetables and fruits are priced
by the pound.
   Canned and packaged foods are usually unit priced in terms of
cents per ounce.  Foods sold in larger amounts --- for instance, 5 or
10 pounds of flour or sugar --- may be unit priced by cost per pound.
Beverages may be unit priced by price per fluid ounce, quart, or
gallon.
   To find the unit price on an item, divide the price by the total
number of ounces or pounds for the item you're considering.  For
example:  If a 12-oz. can sells for 54 cents and a 16-oz. can of the
same product sells for 72 cents, which is the better buy?  In this
case, both cost the same -- 4.5 cents an ounce.  Let your needs
determine which you buy.
   Household items like detergents also carry unit pricing.  Frozen
foods may not be unit priced, so you'll have to make you own
calculations to find the best buy.  Items on sale or on special usually
don't have the revised unit price available.  This, then, is a good way
to check the amount of price reduction of the sale item to see if it's
really a bargain. 
Unit pricing compares price only.  It doesn't consider judgment of              
quality, performance or individual preferences.  It can be used to
compare costs among different brands of the same food, different sizes
of a product, and different forms of the same food.  It can also be
used to compare costs of different foods within the same food group.
   Tell the store manager if you find outdated unit price labels, labels
mounted in the wrong location or other problems with unit pricing.
This lets him know that unit pricing is being used.  It also encourages
accuracy on the part of store employees.
   For more information and suggestions about buying food, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Fresh Fish, What To Look For. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2626
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2626, "Fresh Fish, What To Look For."
                 Fresh fish is a highly nutritious, economical addition
to any menu.  It usually costs less than other protein foods and is
easy to prepare -- cooking in minutes rather than hours.
        In addition to seafood and fish markets, many grocery stores
now offer a variety of fresh fish for sale.  If you recognize the signs
of good quality fish you can make better selections.
   Follow these guidelines when checking for good quality -- First,
check the skin of the fish.  It should be shiny, almost metallic, with
color that has not faded.  As the fish decomposes, its skin markings
and colors become less distinctive.
                 Look at the scales of the fish.  Scales should be
brightly colored and tightly attached to the skin.  The gills should be
red and free from slime.  As fish ages, the gills change color, fading
gradually to a light pink, then becoming gray and eventually brownish
and greenish.
        If the head is still on the fish, check the eyes.  They should
be bright, clear, transparent and full -- often protruding.  As the fish
decomposes, its eyes become cloudy, and may turn pink and shrink.
        The flesh of whole or dressed fish should be firm, elastic and
not separated from the bones.  As the fish decomposes, the flesh
becomes soft, slimy and slips away from the bones.  Fish fillets should
have a fresh cut appearance and color that resembles freshly dressed
fish.
        Last, but not least, don't forget to check for odor.  The odor
should be fresh or mild...not fishy.
        For more information about buying and using seafood,  call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Fresh Fish, How Much To Buy. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2627
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2627, "Fresh Fish, How Much To Buy."
        If you're wondering how much fish to serve, a two to three
ounce portion of cooked fish provides an adequate amount of protein
for one serving.  However, many people prefer a somewhat larger
portion.  The amount of fish to buy per person for a five ounce
serving should be -- one-third of a pound for fillets or steaks, one-
half pound for dressed fish, and three-fourths of a pound for whole
fish.
   Whole fish refers to fish just as it comes from the water.  The
fish must be scaled or skinned and the entrails must be removed.  The
head, tail and fin can also be removed if desired.
                 Drawn fish are whole fish with only the entrails
removed.  Usually it is scaled, but the tail, head and fins remain.
   Dressed fish is commonly sold at fish markets.  The fish is scaled,
then the entrails and usually the tail, head and fins are removed.
Small dressed fish are called pan-dressed fish.
        Chunks, steaks, and fillets of fish are already prepared for
cooking and freezing.  Chunks and steaks are cross-sections of large
dressed fish.  A part of the backbone is usually the only bone present.
Chunks may be four to six inches thick, and steaks are usually three-
fourths of an inch thick.
   Fillets are the boneless sides of the fish cut away from the
backbone.  Fillets are cut with a sharp knife from head to tail.
Certain kinds of fish, such as perch, sole, and flounder need not have
entrails removed before filleting.
   Butterfly fillets are cut so that the two sides of the fish
corresponding to the two single fillets are held together by the uncut
flesh and skin of the belly.                     For more
information about buying and serving seafood, call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

###
-End-
-Title-
Fresh Shellfish, What To Look For. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2628
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2628, "Fresh Shellfish, What To Look For."
        Fresh shellfish will make a special occasion of just about any
ordinary  meal.  They're rich in protein and high in many essential
nutrients.  But before you buy shellfish, you want to make sure
they're the best.
        When selecting good quality shellfish, make sure that oysters
and clams in the shell are alive, and the shell is closed when handled.
Gaping shells mean that the shellfish is dead and should not be
purchased.
   Shucked oysters should be plump with a mild odor and a creamy
color.  The liquor should be clear and free from gas bubbles,
indicating fermentation.  There should be no sour odor.
   Check fresh shrimp for a fresh mild odor and firm texture.  The
shells should be greenish-gray to brownish in color, depending on the
kind of shrimp.  A red orange color may indicate that the shrimp is
decomposing.  Cooked shrimp should have red color in the shells and
the meat should have a reddish tinge.
        Live crawfish, crabs and lobsters should be alive, active, free
of mud and debris, with no unpleasant odor.  Cooked crawfish and
lobster tails should be curled, indicating that the shellfish were alive
at the time of cooking.
   For more information about what to look for when buying fresh
shellfish or for a free pamphlet called "Louisiana Seafood", contact the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Fresh Shellfish, How Much To Buy. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2629
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2629, "Fresh Shellfish, How Much To Buy."
   The amount of shellfish you need to buy varies with the size of
the shellfish, how you cook them, your recipe, and the size of the
serving.
        The general guide used in buying shrimp for one person is one
pound for whole shrimp -- one-fourth or one-half pound for headless
shrimp -- and three to four ounces for peeled tails used in cooked
dishes. The cooked portion peeled from shrimp, lobster, crab and
crawfish is one hundred percent edible. Headless shrimp is eighty
percent edible.
   When you buy live crawfish to be boiled and eaten, you should buy
about five pounds per person.  When you're buying peeled tails for
cooked dishes or salads, plan to use three to four ounces per person.
        One to two pounds or four to five hard shell crabs will feed
one person, while three to four ounces of shelled meat per person will
be enough for cooked dishes.
        When you buy oysters in the shell, plan to serve a half dozen
per person.   When you buy shucked oysters, buy one-half pint per
person.
        If you need more information about buying shellfish, contact
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Boiling Home Canned Foods Before Tasting. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2701
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2701, "Boiling Home Canned Foods Before Tasting."
   If you have the slightest doubt as to whether a home canned, low
acid food has been processed adequately, don't take a chance.  Boil
the food briskly in an open pan for 15 to 20 minutes.  This will help
assure that botulism, a type of food poisoning which causes paralysis
and even death, isn't present.  The deadly poison, or toxin, produced
by the bacteria will be destroyed by this boiling.
   The botulism bacteria is present in soil and may be brought into
the home on clothing, hands, food, etc.  It produces heat-resistant
spores which can be destroyed only by temperatures of 240 degrees
Fahrenheit, a temperature well above normal boiling temperature of
212 degrees.
   The prime targets for botulism growth are low acid, home canned
foods including vegetables and meats.  Fruits usually contain enough
acid to prevent its growth.
   Commercial canning equipment is designed to reach temperatures of
240 degrees, the temperature at which the botulism spores are
destroyed.  Home pressure canners will reach this temperature, too.
This special home equipment uses steam pressure to raise the boiling
point of food above the usual boiling point of 212 degrees.  Low acid
foods will be safe to eat if you use the recommended equipment, have
the equipment checked to make sure that the gauges are functioning
properly, and follow tested, reliable recipes. 
If botulism spores are not destroyed, they will grow in home                    
canned, low acid products.  The organism will multiply rapidly in the
moist, air-free environment of home canned products.  If you aren't
absolutely sure that a low acid food was processed at the
recommended time and temperature, don't taste it before boiling it for
15 to 20 minutes in an open pan.
   If you want more information about food safety, or if you would
like to receive the free pamphlets "Serve Food Safely," and "Keeping
Food Safe to Eat," call the home economist in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cook Pork Thoroughly. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2702
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2702, "Cook Pork Thoroughly."
   Pork must be cooked thoroughly to destroy a parasite occasionally
found in the meat.  To destroy this parasite, cook pork to an internal
temperature of 170 degrees Fahrenheit, a temperature which produces
the gray color of well-done pork.
   The trichinae parasite which may be found in pork can cause
trichinosis, which is characterized by abdominal pain, nausea, vomiting
and diarrhea.  There may be other symptoms, too, including fever,
swelling of the hands and face, and muscle paralysis.  Severe
infections may cause death.
   Trichinosis occurred more often in days past, when hogs were fed
uncooked food wastes.  Better control of rats and mice, which may be
hosts to the parasite, has helped to reduce the incidence of
trichinosis, too.  Government regulations now assure consumers that
frankfurters and other processed pork products are free from the
deadly parasite.
   Pork, an excellent source of protein, can be prepared in a variety
of ways.  It's also a good source of iron, thiamin and niacin.  To
enjoy pork, just be certain that it is well-cooked.
   You can get more information about food, nutrition and diets from
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Cooling Large Quantities of Food. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2703
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2703, "Cooling Large Quantities of Food."
   When you prepare food to be stored and then eaten later, it's
important that you cool that food rapidly to prevent the growth of
food poisoning organisms.  When you prepare large amounts of food
you need to pay special attention to cooling it because the larger the
amount of food, the longer it takes to cool.
   The best way to cool large amounts of food is to divide it into
smaller containers and cool it in the refrigerator or freezer.  Shallow
containers are best for quick cooling.  Large, deep containers prevent
food from cooling rapidly, especially the part of the food in the
center.
   Even in a refrigerator, the temperature at the center of a large
amount of food may stay warm enough for bacteria to grow, multiply,
and in some cases, produce toxins or poisons.
   There are several bacteria which cause food poisoning.  All grow
well on moist, protein-rich foods when they are exposed to
temperatures between 45 degrees and 140 degrees Fahrenheit.  These
protein-rich foods include meats, poultry, fish, shellfish, eggs and milk.
   To make sure that food poisoning doesn't occur with the foods you
prepare, remember these safety suggestions...
   Use sanitary food preparation methods...
   Make sure food stays either hot or cold...above 140 degrees
Fahrenheit or below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
   When food will be stored and eaten later, cool it as rapidly as
possible by putting it in shallow containers in the refrigerator or
freezer.
   Reheat stored foods or leftovers thoroughly before they are eaten.
They should be reheated to an internal temperature of 165 degrees
Fahrenheit.
   If you want more information and suggestions about food safety
and nutrition, or if you would like to have free copies of the
pamphlets "Serve Food Safely," and "Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Feeding a Crowd Safely. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2704
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2704, "Feeding a Crowd Safely."
   When you are cooking for large groups, it's especially important to
serve safe, delicious foods.  Some key words to remember when you
are cooking for a crowd are:  prevention, cleanliness and care.
   To prevent food-borne illness, keep foods either hot (above 140
degrees Fahrenheit) or cold (below 40 degrees Fahrenheit).  Don't let
foods remain at room temperature.  If you prepare foods in advance,
refrigerate or freeze them, then reheat before serving.
   Cook meats thoroughly using reliable timetables.  Beef should be
cooked to an internal temperature of 140 degrees Fahrenheit, and
poultry and pork should be cooked to 165 degrees.  Use a meat
thermometer for best results.
   When you're serving hot dips, keep them hot in chafing dishes
designed for home use.  When you're serving cold dips or meat items,
serve small quantities at a time, and refill trays as needed.
   Cleanliness is essential.  Be sure all your equipment, utensils and
work surfaces are clean before you start to prepare the food.  Wash
your hands before you begin working with food and after touching
your mouth, nose or hair.  After preparing raw meat items, wash all
the equipment, work surfaces and your hands thoroughly with hot,
soapy water.
   Caring for leftovers is important, too.  Refrigerate or freeze them
immediately.  If you are freezing large amounts of food, put them in
shallow containers or in several small containers so they'll cool
rapidly.  This will help prevent bacterial growth.  
If you plan to keep cooked fruits and vegetables longer than 4 to 5             
days, or meat items longer than 2 to 3 days, freeze them instead of
refrigerating.  Put all items to be refrigerated or frozen in containers
designed to prevent moisture and vapor penetration, or wrap them in
moisture-vapor-proof packaging material.
   If you want more information about safe food preparation, or if
you would like to receive the free pamphlets "Serve Food Safely," or
"Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call the home economist in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Food Poisoning Grows in Warm Temperatures. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2705
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2705, "Food Poisoning Grows in Warm Temperatures."
   The term food poisoning is used for any illness or disease caused
by eating food contaminated by bacteria.  Symptoms of food poisoning
may include abdominal pain, cramps, diarrhea, headache and fever.
   The most widely known causes of food poisoning are five bacterial
organisms which, when conditions are right, multiply and produce
poisons which cause illness.  To grow and reproduce, or multiply,
bacteria need moisture, warmth and a source of food.  Most need air,
too, but some can grow in sealed cans or jars.
   Because most bacteria grow best at body temperature or lukewarm
temperature, one of the most important things you can do to protect
yourself and your family from food poisoning is to keep foods at
temperatures where the bacteria will not grow.  The danger zone is
between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 125 degrees Fahrenheit.  Foods
held for more than 2 hours in this zone are subject to very rapid
growth of bacteria and production of toxins or poisons by the
organism.  The best holding temperatures for food are below 40
degrees Fahrenheit and above 140 degrees Fahrenheit.  At these
temperatures, you can prevent food poisoning.  Be sure to refrigerate
foods promptly after cooking and reheat as needed before serving.
   Foods that require special care include dishes which contain eggs
or milk.  Do not allow the following foods to stand at room
temperature:  cream, custard or meringue pies, and foods with custard
fillings, including cakes, cream puffs or eclairs.  Refrigerate them as
soon as they are prepared. 
Other foods that need special handling are items containing meats,              
poultry and fish.  If you must hold cooked meats, poultry or fish, keep
the temperature above 140 degrees Fahrenheit or below 40 degrees
Fahrenheit.  Reheat when ready to serve.  Refrigerate leftovers
immediately.  Try to refrigerate large quantities of food by dividing it
into smaller, shallow containers.
   Store stuffing and meat separately in the refrigerator before and
after cooking.  Also, refrigerate broth or gravy immediately after
cooking and bring it to a full, rolling boil before serving it again.
   If you want more information and suggestions about food and food
safety, or if you would like to have free copies of the pamphlets
"Serve Food Safely," and "Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Food Poisoning Often Called Virus. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2706
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2706, "Food Poisoning Often Called Virus."
   If you have a headache, an upset stomach, fever or diarrhea, you
may have a virus, but it's also possible that you might have food
poisoning, illness caused by eating food contaminated with harmful
bacteria.
   Bacteria which cause disease enter the body in contaminated food,
then cause infections in the digestive tract.  Salmonella is one kind of
food poisoning that comes from eating food in which large numbers of
bacteria are growing.  Other bacteria may form poisons in food which
cause illness.  The most common foodborne illness in the United States
is probably "staph" food poisoning which results from toxins, or
poisons, formed by bacteria in food.
   Botulism also results from eating toxins produced by the growth of
bacteria in food.  This deadly food poisoning occurs in foods that have
been processed inadequately, as in home-canned products which have
not been processed at the correct temperature and time.
   Poor food handling practices often cause illness even though the
foods were safe to eat when they were bought and first prepared.
Lack of sanitation, too little cooking and improper storage can allow
bacteria to increase to dangerous levels.
   Foodborne illnesses are especially common during summer when
perishable foods are taken on picnics and held without refrigeration.
Food poisoning may occur anytime food isn't prepared properly or
handled properly.
   To protect your family from food poisoning, follow these
suggestions:
   Make sure dishes, utensils, kitchen equipment and work surfaces
are clean before you start to prepare food. 
Always prepare food with clean hands, fingernails and clothing.                 
   Wash your hands after touching raw meat or poultry.
   If you touch your face, mouth, nose or hair while preparing food,
wash your hands immediately.
   Keep hot foods hot and cold foods cold.  Foods should be kept
above 140 degrees Fahrenheit or below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, not at
temperatures in between.  If hot foods are not eaten soon after
they're cooked, refrigerate them and reheat before serving.  Be sure
you refrigerate these foods as soon as they are prepared:  cream pies,
custards, puddings, creamed meat dishes, sandwich fillings made with
mayonnaise, and potato salad.
   If food smells unusual, don't use it.  Don't use foods from cans
which are dented or bulging either.
   Before tasting any home-canned vegetables and meats, boil them for
15 minutes.
   Cook meat, poultry or fish by using tested recipes with reliable
tables for times and temperatures.  Use a meat thermometer to make
sure meats are cooked thoroughly.  Internal temperatures of beef, veal
and lamb should be at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit; poultry should be
165 degrees Fahrenheit; and pork 170 degrees Fahrenheit.
   For more information and suggestions about food and food safety,
or for free copies of the pamphlets "Serve Food Safely," and "Keeping
Food Safe to Eat," call the home economist in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Food Poisoning Possible Without Bad Odor or Taste. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2707
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2707, "Food Poisoning Possible Without Bad Odor or Taste."
   When food smells or tastes bad, you know that spoilage has
occurred, but some spoiled foods will have no changes in taste,
appearance or odor.  These are the ones that are dangerous.  They,
too, can cause food poisoning.
   Foodborne illness is fairly common in the United States.  It is
caused by eating food contaminated with bacteria which produce
poisonous substances called toxins.  Three factors contribute to the
growth of bacteria in food:  lack of sanitation, insufficient cooking
and improper storage.
   You can help to protect your family from food poisoning by
following these food safety tips:
   When you are preparing or serving food, be sure to have clean
hands, dishes, utensils, equipment and work surfaces.
   Don't touch your face, mouth, nose or hair when preparing or
serving food.  If you do, wash your hands before you handle food
again.
   Keep hot foods hot (above 145 degrees Fahrenheit) and cold foods
cold (below 40 degrees Fahrenheit).  If hot foods aren't to be eaten as
soon as they're cooked, refrigerate them, then reheat them before
they're served.
   Always refrigerate cream pies, custards, puddings, creamed meat
dishes, sandwich fillings with mayonnaise, and potato salad.  Do so
promptly after preparing.
   Before tasting any home-canned vegetables and meats, boil them for
about 15 minutes.
   Use tested recipes with reliable tables for times and temperatures
for cooking meats, poultry and fish. 
If you want more information and suggestions about nutrition and                
food safety, or if you would like to have a free copies of the
pamphlets "Serve Food Safely," and "Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Handling Leftovers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2708
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2708, "Handling Leftovers."
   Leftovers are great for quick, easy, delicious meals and snacks, but
if they're not handled properly, they may cause food poisoning.  The
best thing to do with leftovers is to refrigerate them immediately
after the first time they're served.  Food poisoning can result when
foods are left at room temperatures for two to three hours.
Refrigerator temperatures of below 40 degrees Fahrenheit stop
bacteria from multiplying and also keep some bacteria from producing
poisons.
   Refrigerate foods in containers designed for food storage or in
other containers wrapped with moisture-vapor-proof materials.  This
will keep air from getting to the food and drying it out.  It also
keeps odors from transferring.  To make sure food cools promptly, use
large, shallow containers instead of deep containers.
   Most leftover fruits and vegetables will keep 4 to 5 days.  Meat
leftovers may be stored 2 to 3 days.  If you need to store leftover
foods longer than this, put foods in proper containers and freeze
them.  Before serving leftover meats, heat them to 165 degrees
Fahrenheit all the way through.  Before serving gravies, soups and
gumbos, bring them to a full, rolling boil.
   If you take care of leftovers, they'll be as tasty as they were when
you first served them.
   If you want more information and suggestions about food and food
safety, or if you would free copies of the pamphlets "Serve Food
Safely," and "Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
How Long Does Frozen Food Keep? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2709
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2709, "How Long Does Frozen Food Keep?"
   Your home freezer can be a real time-saver for today's busy
lifestyle.  It can store meats, fruits and vegetables and many items
which can be prepared ahead:  casseroles, main dishes, foods for
parties or snacks, and even entire meals packaged in individual
portions.
   You do need to remember three important points about keeping
frozen foods fresh and safe to eat.  First, choose quality food
products.  Two, maintain the freezer temperature at zero degrees
Fahrenheit or lower, and three, use appropriate freezer packaging
materials.
   You need to choose quality food products because a frozen food
item will be only as good as the original product.  Follow
recommended procedures for preparing foods for freezing, such as
blanching for fresh vegetables.
   A freezer temperature of zero degrees or below is essential for
keeping frozen foods safe and delicious.  Use a freezer thermometer to
check the temperature of your freezer.
   If you use containers and materials designed for home freezing, you
can avoid freezer burn.  This means using moisture-vapor-proof plastic
bags and wraps, freezer wrap, freezer containers and heavy-duty foil.
   When you package the foods, date them with an expiration date
based on maximum storage times.  Storing foods longer isn't
dangerous, but flavors and textures may change when foods are stored
longer than recommended times.  Be sure the temperature in your
freezer is zero degrees or lower.
   Here are some of the maximum storage times recommended by
USDA for maintaining good quality:  fruits and fruit juice
concentrates, l year; vegetables, 8 to 12 months; bread, rolls and
doughnuts, 3 months; cakes, 2 to 4 months; fruit cake, l year; pound
cake, 6 months; unbaked pies, 8 months. 
Beef, such as hamburger meat, steaks and roasts, 2 months; cured                
pork, 2 months; fresh pork chops, 4 months; pork roasts, 8 months;
and pork sausage, 2 months.  Veal cutlets, chops and roasts, 9 months;
cooked meat dinners, meat pies or Swiss steak, 3 months; cut-up
chicken, 9 months; whole chicken, l year; chicken livers, 3 months;
duck, goose and cut-up turkey, 6 months; whole turkey, l year; cooked
chicken or turkey dinners or pies, 6 months; fried chicken, 4 months.
   Fish fillets, 3 to 6 months; crab meat, 3 months; oysters, 4 months;
shrimp, l year; cooked fish and shell fish, 3 months; and ice cream or
sherbet, l month.
   You can get more information and suggestions about buying,
preserving and storing food from the home economist in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Picnic Foods and Safety. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2711
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2711, "Picnic Foods and Safety."
   Warm weather often means picnics and outdoor fun.  Too often,
foodborne illness is associated with picnics.  Follow these suggestions
to keep your picnic foods safe to eat.
   Choose your picnic menu carefully.  Disease-producing bacteria
prefer foods high in protein and moisture.  These foods include milk
products, eggs, poultry, meats, fish, shellfish, cream pies, custards and
potato salad.  If you can't keep foods at the proper temperature to
prevent bacterial growth, don't plan to take these foods on a picnic.
The temperatures which prevent bacterial growth are either above 140
degrees or below 45 degrees.  If temperatures are a problem, choose
canned, preserved or dehydrated foods and fresh fruits and
vegetables.
   Food preparation is another important aspect of getting ready for a
picnic.  Before you prepare food, be sure to wash your hands and the
utensils and equipment you will use.  Cook food thoroughly to the
proper temperature.  Cook pork, poultry, custards and cream fillings to
a temperature of 165 degrees.  Use a meat or cooking thermometer to
make sure food reaches 165 degrees.
   Keep prepared food hot (above 140 degrees) or refrigerate it
immediately after preparation.  Use frozen bread and chilled fillings
for sandwiches to help keep them cold. 
Storing foods properly can help keep your picnic free from                      
foodborne illness, too.  Hot foods should be stored and transported in
insulated containers such as an ice chest, for short trips.  For longer
trips, refrigerate foods at 45 degrees or colder, then reheat them
before you eat them.
   Cold foods can be kept below 45 degrees in an ice chest.  You can
use ice, dry ice or cold packs to keep temperatures low.  If you use
dry ice, put it on top of the food.  Store foods to be chilled in
shallow containers.  They provide more surface area for foods to stay
cold.
   When you're serving picnic foods, place them on a clean tablecloth
spread on the picnic table or ground.  After the meal, put leftovers
back in the ice chest immediately.  If food has stayed out at unsafe
temperatures, throw it away.  Do not take a chance on eating foods
which might make you sick.
   Follow these suggestions for food safety.  Make sure your picnic is
an enjoyable experience.
   If you would like to have more information about food preparation
or food safety, or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called
"Keeping Food Safe To Eat," call the home economist in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Preventing Botulism. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2712
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2712, "Preventing Botulism."
   Botulism is a deadly type of food poisoning caused by  bacteria in
soil and is carried into the home on clothing, hands, food, etc.  It
grows best at temperatures between 70 degrees and 110 degrees
Fahrenheit -- in other words, at room temperature.
   The bacteria itself is easily destroyed by boiling temperatures, 212
degrees Fahrenheit.  The problem is that the bacteria produces spores
which are very resistant to heat.  These spores produce the poison
that causes the deadly food poisoning called botulism.
   The poison, or toxin, is so powerful that one teaspoon of the pure
substance can kill thousands of people.  Researchers who study the
botulism organism must be extremely careful to avoid contact with it.
The only way to destroy these spores is to heat them to 240 degrees
Fahrenheit, a temperature much higher than boiling.  This high
temperature can be reached only by equipment in commercial canning
operations or by using a standard pressure canner in home canning.
   Because the bacteria live and grow without air, home canned, low
acid foods which have been improperly processed at temperatures lower
than 240 degrees are prime targets for botulism growth.  Botulism is
rarely found in commercially canned foods;  it is much more often
associated with home canned foods.
 
In the warm, moist, air-free environment of low acid, home canned   r12         
foods which have not been processed at the correct temperature, the
organism grows easily and produces its toxin.  Low acid foods include
meats, vegetables and milk.  Most fruits contain enough acid to
prevent botulism growth and can be processed using a water bath.
Any time food is processed at home, it is imperative to follow tested
recipes for processing times and temperatures.
   The botulism poison can be destroyed by brisk boiling in an open
pan for about 15 to 20 minutes.  Any home canned, low acid food
about which you have the slightest question should be boiled for 15 to
20 minutes before you taste it.
   If you have questions about food safety and sanitation, or if you
would like to receive the free pamphlets "Serve Food Safely," or
"Canning Vegetables," or "Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Reheat Gravies, Dressings and Meats to Boiling. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2713
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2713, "Reheat Gravies, Dressings and Meats to Boiling."
   Gravies, dressings, meats and other protein-containing foods are
excellent sources for bacterial growth which cause food poisoning.
Food poisoning is caused by preparing and storing foods improperly.
Lack of sanitation, insufficient cooking and improper storage are major
causes of food poisoning.
   Highly perishable foods including meat, poultry, dressing, gravy,
seafood, cream pies, puddings, potato salads and dishes made with eggs
are those most likely to become contaminated.
   To prevent food poisoning, use tested recipes with reliable tables
for temperature and time.  Using a meat thermometer can help you
make sure that meats are cooked thoroughly.  Internal temperatures of
beef, veal and lamb should reach at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit.
Poultry should reach 165 degrees and pork should reach 170 degrees.
Bacteria can survive in partially cooked meats, so don't plan to cook
meats, poultry or fish only partially and hold for final cooking until
later.
   Dressing is a common source of foodborne illness.  Store dressing
and meat separately in the refrigerator.  Stuff thawed poultry, fish or
meat just before roasting.  Put dressing in lightly without packing to
allow adequate heat penetration.  Make sure that dressing, either
inside meat or cooked separately, reaches a temperature of at least
165 degrees Fahrenheit during cooking.  Use a meat thermometer to
make sure.  Keep cooked meat, fish, poultry and dressing hot (above
140 degrees) until they are served.  
To serve leftover meat, dressing and gravy, heat thoroughly.  Boil              
leftover broth and gravies for several minutes before eating them.
Boiling will help to make sure bacteria are destroyed.
   For more information about food safety or for two free pamphlets
entitled "Serve Foods Safely," and "Keeping Foods Safe to Eat," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Sack Lunches--Safety Tips. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2714
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2714,
"Sack Lunches--Safety Tips."
   Whether you brown-bag it to save money or because it's
convenient, you need to follow some food safety suggestions to be
sure your brown-bag doesn't cause you more trouble than it's worth
   Often when kids come home from school with stomach cramps and
vomiting, parents just dismiss the problem as a "bug" that's going
around.  However, the "bug" may be a case of food poisoning caught
from an innocent bag lunch.
   The key to packing a safe lunch is to keep hot foods hot, cold
foods cold and everything clean.  The bacteria that cause food
poisoning live and grow at room temperatures.  You should shouldn't
let food set at room temperature for more than one or two hours.
   Foods that should be kept cold include fried chicken, potato salad,
ham, beef, poultry, eggs and egg sandwiches.  Meat salads like ham,
chicken, and egg are especially susceptible to food germs because they
were handled more during preparation.
   Ideally, you should put your lunch in a refrigerator where you work
or where you go to school.  Of course, this isn't always possible...so
you should use a lunch box whenever you can...instead of a bag.  The
box tends to hold cold better than a bag.
   A cold device such as a commercial freezing gel, can be put into
the lunch box...or you can use a small plastic tub filled with frozen
water or a bag filled with ice to help keep the food cold.
 
Certain types of sandwiches can be frozen...when you use these   ozeno          
they'll thaw by the time you're ready them at noon.  Also, wrap your
lettuce and tomato separately and put them on your sandwich when
you're ready to eat it.  Tomato and lettuce don't freeze very well.
   An insulated vacuum bottle will keep certain kinds of foods hot or
cold.  These bottles are good for foods like soup, stews, and chili.
These foods should be boiling hot when you pour them into the bottle.
   There are some foods which need neither heating or cooling...foods
like dry meats, peanut butter, non-perishable cheeses and cheese
spreads.  Canned meats and poultry products are good in lunches if
they're eaten as soon as they're opened.
   Keeping food, dishes and utensils clean while you're preparing the
lunch will help keep the bacteria from spreading.  Be sure you keep
countertops clean and you wash your hands and utensils in soap and
hot water.
   Wrap foods in clean wrap.  Wash and rinse food storage bottles
with boiling water after each time you use them. If you use brown
paper bags, buy them specifically for lunches.  Bags from grocery
stores may already be contaminated from insects or food leakage.
   Remember that food can be contaminated with enough bacteria to
make you sick and it won't look bad or taste bad or smell bad.  Keep
your lunches safe by keeping hot foods hot, cold foods cold and
everything clean.
   For more nutrition information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call the home economist
in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Safety of Frozen Canned Goods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2715
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2715, "Safety of Frozen Canned Goods."
   Some of your commercially canned goods may have frozen during
the severe cold weather of winter.  To make sure that these frozen
canned goods are safe to eat, follow these safety rules:
   When below freezing temperatures are forecast, check canned goods
often if they are stored in areas where they might freeze.  If you
can, move them to warmer areas so they won't freeze. Freezing may
cause cracks to develop in cans as the frozen food expands.  As the
food thaws, bacteria can enter the cracks and cause the food to spoil
in warmer temperatures.
   If only a small amount of canned food has frozen, keep the food
frozen in your freezer, and use it within a couple of weeks.  Frozen
jellies and pickles can be kept in the refrigerator and used for a
longer period of time than can frozen fruits and vegetables.
   For a moderate amount of frozen canned goods, transfer them to
your freezer and use within two to three months.
   If you don't have enough freezer space to store all of your frozen
canned goods, put them in a storage area where the temperature is
about 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit to allow them to thaw completely.
   Don't use these foods for one week.  After one week, check cans
and jars for signs of spoilage.  Signs of spoilage include breaks in
seals or seams, bulging cans, and streaks or particles of food on the
outside of the containers.  If you see any of these signs, throw away
the items. 
Or, as soon as foods thaw, open the can or jar and refreeze the                 
contents in appropriate containers or re-can the foods, using
appropriate home canning equipment and procedures.  When you are
re-canning, be sure to follow directions provided in reliable references.
Don't re-can commercially canned soups.  These products require
longer heat sterilization times than those given in home canning
references.
   You can get more information and suggestions about food safety
from the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Thawing Frozen Foods Safely. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2716
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2716, "Thawing Frozen Foods Safely."
   Thawing frozen foods at room temperature isn't a good idea
because as the foods thaw, bacteria begin to grow and multiply at the
warmer temperatures.  It's best to thaw frozen foods in the
refrigerator where the temperature is low enough to prevent the
growth of bacteria.  Thawing time in the refrigerator will vary, but
foods may be cooked without thawing.
   If you need to thaw poultry in a hurry, it's best to use cold tap
water.  Leave the original wrapper on the bird and submerge it in cold
water, changing the water often, until the poultry thaws.
   It takes turkeys 3 to 4 days to thaw in the refrigerator, but you
can thaw turkey safely at room temperature by wrapping it in a
double layer of large grocery bags.  Simply place one grocery bag
inside the other and place the turkey in its original wrapper inside the
bags; close ends completely.  You could also use several thicknesses of
newspapers tied around the turkey with string.  An 8- to 10-pound
turkey should thaw in 10 to 12 hours.
   Microwave defrosting is another choice.  Just follow the
recommended procedures, because food can start cooking while it is
defrosting.  Among the recommended procedures are these suggestions:
   Read manufacturer's recommendations for defrosting.
   Turn or rotate foods that can't be stirred.
   Separate pieces of food, such as chicken, as soon as pliable.
   Let large items stand in the microwave to finish defrosting. 
Cover foods with waxed paper during defrosting.  This promotes                  
even heat distribution.
   If you want more information about nutrition and food safety, or if
you would like a free copy of the pamphlet "Preparing Holiday Foods,"
call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
What to do if Your Freezer Stops. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2717
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2717, "What to do if Your Freezer Stops."
   If your home freezer will be off for a long time, there are some
things you can do to keep food from spoiling.
   First, keep the freezer door closed.  Do not open the freezer
except to add dry ice or to move food to a food locker plant or
another freezer.
   Try to determine how long the freezer will be off.  If the freezer
will be running within a few hours, you don't have to worry.  If
power is off, try to find out when it will be restored.  If the freezer
is out of order, consult your instruction book to see if you can do
anything to get it running again.  If not, try to find how long it will
take a service representative to have it operating again.
   Determine how long food will keep.  This depends on several
things:  the amount of food in the freezer, the kind of food, the
temperature of the food, the freezer itself, and the size of the
freezer.  A fully loaded freezer will be O.K. for 2 days, but one only
half-full will keep only a day.  A freezer full of meat will stay colder
longer than one filled with baked goods.  The colder or more solidly
frozen the food, the longer it will stay frozen.  A freezer that is
well insulated will keep food frozen longer than one with little
insulation.  And, the larger the freezer, the longer food will remain
frozen.
   If your freezer will be out of order for several days, you'll need to
move the food to a freezer-locker plant.  Wrap food in plenty of
newspaper or blankets or use insulated boxes for transporting it.  If
locker space isn't available, you can add dry ice to your freezer.  The
more you use, the colder your food will be.  Put heavy cardboard
directly on packages of food, then put the dry ice on top of the
cardboard.       If you would like more information about food
storage and safety or if you would like to have a free copy of the
pamphlet "What to Do When Your Home Freezer Stops," call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
When Can You Refreeze Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2718
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2718, "When Can You Refreeze Foods."
   By the time you discover your freezer isn't working, some frozen
foods may be partially or completely thawed.  Partial thawing and
refreezing reduces the quality of foods, especially fruits, vegetables
and prepared foods.
   If foods still contain ice crystals, or if they are still cold (about 40
degrees Fahrenheit), you may refreeze them safely.  No food that has
warmed above 40 degrees -- except strong, acid fruits -- should be
refrozen.
   Fruits can usually be refrozen safely even if they have thawed.
They may begin to ferment, but a little fermentation won't make them
dangerous, even if it spoils the flavor.  If thawed fruits still taste and
smell good, you can refreeze them or use them in cooking and baking
or for making jams, jellies and preserves.
   Meats and poultry become unsafe to eat when they start to spoil.
If color or odor is poor or questionable, don't use the food.  It may
cause food poisoning.  You can refreeze beef, veal and lamb that show
no signs of spoilage.  If the package has been opened, rewrap meat
before refreezing.
   Sometimes you can't tell by the odor if vegetables, shellfish or
cooked foods have spoiled.  Bacteria multiply rapidly in these foods, so
don't refreeze any of these foods if they have thawed completely.  If
ice crystals still remain, you can refreeze the food immediately, but
the quality may suffer.  If you're in doubt, get rid of it.  It may be
dangerous.  Unfrosted cakes, uncooked fruit pies, breads and rolls can
be refrozen safely, but never refreeze melted ice cream, cream pies or
other cream-filled foods. 
If you want to refill your freezer, clean it before restocking.                 
Refreeze foods quickly.  To get a quick refreeze, take foods to a
commercial food locker.  Wrap them in newspapers and blankets before
moving them to the locker or back to your freezer.
   To refreeze food at home, turn the temperature control to its
coldest position.  Place the warmer packages against the refrigerated
surface if possible, but make sure air can circulate around them.
When the food is well frozen, turn the temperature control to its
usual setting.  If the freezer is too full, put the coldest packages in
the refrigerator and return them to the freezer gradually.  Foods that
have been frozen and thawed need the same care as foods that have
never been frozen.  Label them with the new freezing date and use
the refrozen foods as soon as possible.
   For more information and suggestions about food storage and food
safety or for a free copy of the pamphlet "What to do When Your
Home Freezer Stops," call the home economist in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Canning Fruits Without Sugar. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                           Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Turner)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2806
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2806,
"Canning Fruits Without Sugar."
   It's possible for you to can fruits in water...or in their own
liquids...or in extractracted juice...that is to say...without
sugar.  But sugar helps canned fruit hold its shape and it adds
color and flavor to the final product.
   However, to can fruits without sugar, you can use either the raw
or hot pack method...the hot pack method is preferred.  Cover the
fruit with hot juice or water leaving one-half inch of head room.
If you want to add an artificial sweetener, you'll probably get the
best results if you wait until you serve the fruit because some of
these products tend to get bitter when they're heated and you will
be heating the jars of fruit.
   Before you close the jar, you may want to add a quarter teaspoon
of crystalline ascorbic acid to each quart of light fruit to keep it
from turning dark.
   Then put on the lid and screw down the bands tightly and heat
them a in boiling water bath canner.
   For more canning information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Canning Louisiana Fruits," call the home economist
in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Why Canned Fruits Float. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Turner
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2821
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2821,
"Why Canned Fruits Float."
   Unfortunately, there's not a lot you can do about any jars of
fruit that you have now in which the fruit is floating...but you can
try to keep it from happening the next time you can.
   Floating may be prevented or at least reduced if you select firm,
ripe fruit for canning...by using a light to medium syrup and by
using the hot pack method of canning.
   Pack the fruit in the jars as tightly as you can without crushing
it...keeping in mind that you still need to leave a half-inch of
headspace.
   After you've filled the jar, insert a silver or stainless steel
knife inside the jar to drive out any air bubbles.  Then make sure
you're using the right amount of time and the right method for
processing the particular kind
of fruit you're canning.
   For more canning information and suggestions or for a free copy
of a pamphlet called "Canning Louisiana Fruits," or  a pamphlet
called "Ways With Peaches," or  a pamphlet called "Ways With Pears,"
call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Why Jars Don't Seal. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Turner)
Area:  State

                          Tele-Tip 2823
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2823,
"Why Jars Don't Seal."
   There are several reasons why a jar may not seal after it has
been processed.  Unfortunately, the most common reason is the
failure of the person doing the processing to read and follow the
instructions on the package of lids.
   Since each manufacturer uses different materials to make the
sealing compound around the edges of the lids, it's very important
that you follow the directions on the package.
   Even if you do follow all the directions, a jar may fail to seal
because you left the wrong amount of head space at the top of the
jar when you were filling it...or you may have forgotten to "knife
out" any air bubbles inside the jar.
   Other failures may be caused by defective jars or the use of jars
that are not considered standard canning jars.
   Also, if don't process some jars long enough, they will fail to
seal.  Follow the recommended processing times and methods given in
a reliable canning book.
   Food on the sealing edge of jars may cause a bad seal.  Not
holding an even, steady temperature during processing may also
result in food on the sealing edge of jars.  The same thing may
happen if steam is released too quickly after processing.  Let the
pressure in the canner reach the zero point naturally before you
remove the cover.
   Using bands that have dents, rusty spots or warped edges may
cause uneven pressure on the lid and keep the jar from sealing.
 
Tightening or loosening the screw band immediately after   ing.uhensftn         
processing may cause sealing problems.  Again, check the
instructions on the box of lids to know how to handle them
correctly.
   For more canning information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Defrosting Your Refrigerator. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2904
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2904, "Defrosting Your Refrigerator."
   Today's refrigerators have one of three defrost systems:  manual
defrosting, automatic or cycle defrosting, and frostless or no-frost.
The systems are defined by the Association of Home Appliance
Manufacturers as follows:
   No-frost or frostless refrigerator:  A no-frost refrigerator or
freezer is operated automatically to prevent the permanent formation
of frost on refrigerated plates or coils in the freezer and refrigerator.
No ice or frost forms on the stored food.  The water from defrosting
is disposed of automatically.  These frostless or no-frost models never
need defrosting, but they do need cleaning periodically.
   Automatic or cycle defrosting refrigerator/freezer:  In these
models, the refrigerator has automatic defrosting but the freezer must
be defrosted manually.  The automatic or cycle defrosting units can be
recognized by the cold plate at the interior back of the refrigerator
cabinet.
   The third type is a manual defrosting refrigerator.  Few
refrigerators manufactured today must be defrosted manually.  These
models usually have a single door and a small freezing compartment at
the top.  They are usually found in apartments and cottages or as
second refrigerators.
   If you have a manual defrost unit or one in which a buildup of
frost is visible, you'll need to defrost it when the frost is about one-
fourth inch thick.  Otherwise the refrigerator won't work as well as it
should.
   To defrost or clean the freezer, turn the cold control to off or
defrost and remove ice cubes and other frozen items.  Wrap items
together in several layers of newspaper or put them in an insulated
picnic hamper or cooler.  
To defrost quickly, place pans of warm water in the freezer unit,               
warm the area with a hair dryer, or use the crevice tool of your
vacuum cleaner, attaching the hose to the exhaust end of the cleaner.
To avoid the possibility of shock, unplug the refrigerator.  Don't chip
off the frost with a sharp object because you may damage the
compartment.  Collect and throw away the defrost water.  Wash the
compartment with a baking soda solution, rinse it and wipe dry.  Wipe
off any moisture on the frozen food before returning items to
freezer.
   All refrigerators, whether they are defrosted manually or not, need
to be cleaned periodically.  The best time to clean a refrigerator is
when the food supply is lowest.  Throw away any spoiled food.
Refrigerators can absorb odors from spoiled or strong-smelling foods.
To remove odors and spills, clean the inside with a clean cloth wrung
out in a solution of one tablespoon of baking soda to one quart of
warm water.  Rinse with clean water and wipe dry.  Clean the folds in
the gasket seal around the door with mild sudsy water, rinse and
wipe dry.  Vacuum or dust the condenser coils or fins located on the
back or bottom of the refrigerator.  Removing dust from these areas
and not allowing frost to build up will help the refrigerator run more
efficiently.
   For more information about caring for the appliances in your home,
call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Foods that do not Freeze Well. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2905
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2905, "Foods that do not Freeze Well."
   Some foods just aren't suitable for freezing because of the changes
that take place in the process.  Here are some foods that don't freeze
well:
   Hard cooked egg whites become tough and rubbery.  If you're
planning to freeze egg whites in chicken salad sandwiches, for
example, chop them finely or put them through a sieve.
   Mature Irish potatoes used in soups, stews or meat pies become
spongy and unappetizing.  Salad greens lose crispness, so don't freeze
them.  Radishes, celery, cucumber and green onions become soft, but
if you will use them only in cooking, this softness won't be a problem.
   Tomatoes become limp and watery.  Tomatoes also change color and
flavor.  If you want to freeze tomatoes to use later in cooking, it's
best to cook them before you freeze them.  Raw apples and grapes
become soft and mushy when they're frozen, and apples will turn dark,
too.
   Cream cheese becomes grainy and crumbly, but cream cheese
freezes well when combined with cream, salad dressings or mayonnaise.
Pasteurized whipping cream separates on freezing, but the new ultra-
pasteurized cream freezes well.  Check the label.  Pasteurized
whipping cream can be whipped and frozen.  Place dollops of whipped
cream on a cookie sheet, freeze, remove from the cookie sheet and
store in moisture-vapor-proof freezer bags.
   Don't freeze custard pies, cream puddings and pie fillings because
they will weep and change texture.  Large amounts of mayonnaise tend
to separate during freezing and thawing.  It's fine to freeze small
amounts of mayonnaise for mixing meat salads or when it's combined
with whipped cream or cream cheese.  Frozen pie meringues will be
tough and will stick to freezer wrap. 
Cake icings made with egg whites (like boiled icings or seven-                  
minute icings) become frothy or weep when thawed.  Don't try to
freeze cream fillings because they will weep.
   Freezing fried foods is a problem, too, because except for french
fries and onion rings, they will lose their crispness and become rancid.
NEVER freeze stuffing or dressing inside the cavity of raw or cooked
poultry.  You can freeze poultry and dressing separately, but when
they're frozen together, they are highly susceptible to food poisoning.
   For more information on freezing foods or for a free pamphlet
called "Freezing Cooked and Prepared Foods," call the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Cheese. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2906
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2906, "Freezing Cheese."
   Some kinds of cheese can be frozen with only slight damage to
texture or eating quality.  Others don't fare so well because they
undergo some undesirable changes.  The cheeses that do freeze well
are the hard and semi-hard cheeses, such as Cheddar, Swiss, Edam,
Gouda and Brick.  The ones that change when they are frozen are the
soft cheeses such as Liederkranz, Limburger and Camembert.  Blue
cheese and Roquefort tend to crumble after freezing and thawing, so
we don't recommend freezing blue cheese or Roquefort.
   Whole cheeses such as longhorns or loaves in their original wax
coatings are protected against moisture loss if the wax coating isn't
broken.  It's wise to wrap them again though.  It may be more
convenient to cut these cheeses into smaller portions and wrap them
before you freeze them.  As a rule, don't freeze individual pieces
larger than one pound because they won't freeze fast enough.
   Cheese should be wrapped in moisture-vapor-proof material like
heavy duty aluminum foil or freezer paper or put in specially designed
freezer bags.  Be sure to press the wrapping close to the surface of
the cheese so air pockets and drying can be prevented.
   Sometimes cheese becomes dry and crumbly after it's frozen
because of the crystallization of moisture during freezing.  There's
also a tendency for cheese to lose surface moisture unless it is sealed
tightly.
   When you take cheese out of the freezer, it may look mottled
because of the frozen moisture on its surface.  Don't worry, the
cheese will regain its normal color once it thaws completely.  Thaw
cheese slowly and leave the wrapper on so it won't lose moisture.  It's
better to thaw cheese in the refrigerator or in a cool room overnight.
   For more information on freezing specific foods, call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Corn. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2907
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2907, "Freezing Corn."
   There are three recommended ways of freezing fresh corn...on the
cob, whole kernel and cream style.  Corn should be frozen...if
possible...within two-to-three hours after it is picked.  The sugar in
corn begins to turn to starch after the corn is picked, so the sooner
you freeze it the sweeter it will be.
   If you must pick the corn a day or two before you freeze it, leave
the shucks on it and spread out in a cool place...or, take off the
shucks and store the corn in plastic bags in the refrigerator.
   When it comes time to freeze the corn, work with small amounts.
Shuck the corn, remove the silks, trim the ends and wash it.
   Now, to freeze corn on the cob...sort the ears according to size
and blanch them.  Put about a pound of corn into a gallon of boiling
water.  Start counting the blanching time when the water returns to a
boil.  Blanching time longer for corn-on-the-cob because the cob must
get hot enough to deactivate enzymes.
   You should blanch small ears of corn for seven minutes...medium
sized ears for nine minutes...and large ears for eleven minutes.
   Take the corn from the boiling water and chill it thoroughly in ice
water.  It's important that you cool the corn long enough for the cob
to cool...however, if the corn is left in the water too long, it will
become soggy.
A rule of thumb is that it takes as long to cool the corn as it does to
blanch it.
 
After the corn is blanched, then you should drain off the water   es to.        
and wrap each ear separately in plastic film or freezer foil.  You can
put several ears together in one freezer bag or you can wrap several
ears together in freezer paper.  Try to remove as much air as you can
from the package.
   Here's how you freeze whole kernel corn.  First, while the corn is
still on the cob, blanch it for four minutes, then chill it and drain off
the water.
Cut the kernels off the cob at about two-thirds the depth of the
kernels.  Pack the corn tightly into freezer containers or bags, leaving
about a half-inch at the top.  Seal the packages and freeze them at
zero degrees Fahrenheit.
   You can also freeze southern cream-style corn.  For creamier corn,
cut and scrape it off the cob before you blanch it.  Cut the corn at
about the center of the kernels, then scrape the cob with the back of
a knife to remove the juice and the heart of the kernel.
   Choose one of the following methods of heating and blanching
cream-style corn...but, be sure to add enough water to keep the corn
from sticking while it's being heated.  You may want to try one-to-
two cups of water per quart of corn.
   Now, the blanching methods...one way is to heat the corn and the
water mixture to boiling and cook it for four minutes...stirring
constantly to keep it from sticking or scorching.
   Another, easier way to blanch the corn is to heat it in the top of
a double boiler for about ten-to-fifteen minutes or until it is heated
thoroughly...or another easy method is to heat the corn in an oven at
350 degrees until the mixture is very hot...then continue to heat it for
four more minutes.  Blanching in the oven requires less stirring.
 
Cool the corn quickly by putting the pan or boiler on ice or in a    forf       
pan of ice water.  You can hurry the cooling process by putting the
corn into a cold, shallow pan, then putting the pan on ice.  Stir the
corn often until it's cool.
   Package the corn in airtight, moisture-vapor-proof containers,
leaving about a half-inch at the top.  Freeze the corn immediately at
zero degrees Fahrenheit.
   If you want more information about freezing corn or if you would
like to have a free pamphlet called "Three Ways to Freeze Corn," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Eggs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2908
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2908, "Freezing Eggs."
   If you've never considered freezing eggs, you may be surprised at
how many uses you can find for them...such as scrambling them,
baking with them and making desserts with them.  You can freeze
eggs and keep them in your freezer safely for about six months...but,
they must be removed from the shells.
   Eggs can be frozen whole, or with the whites and yolks separated.
The most convenient way to freeze eggs is to package them according
to the way you plan to use them...such as measured for use in an
angel food cake...or whole eggs measured for family breakfasts.
   Here are some general guides for freezing eggs...ice cube trays or
custard cups make good containers for freezing eggs...use a quick,
clean technique...select fresh eggs of good quality and wash them
before you crack them...cool the eggs to thirty-two degrees
Fahrenheit...and don't freeze cracked  eggs.
   Now, some specific recommendations about freezing eggs.
First...whole eggs.  Remember to break each egg into a saucer before
you add it to a bowl with other open eggs and don't add it to the
others until you're sure it's good.  Also, break the yolks and
thoroughly mix them with the whites.  Use a fork or an electric
beater at low speed to do this mixing, but be careful not to whip air
into the eggs.
   You can prevent yolks from thickening by adding salt or sugar.
Add one teaspoon of salt per pint of eggs that you plan to use for
scrambling or making salad dressing.  Add a teaspoon of sugar per
pint of eggs for baking and desserts.  Then strain this mixture
through a wire sieve.
 
Now...freezing egg yolks.  First, separate the yolks from the whites.   f       
Then, break the yolks and mix them.  Use a fork or a portable rotary
beater at low speed...and, again, be careful not to whip air into the
mixture.  Just as before, you can add salt or sugar to prevent
thickening.  Use either one tablespoon of sugar or corn syrup or a
half teaspoon of salt for each cup of eggs you're freezing, depending
on the intended use.  Put the yolks through a food mill or a medium
mesh strainer.
   Now...freezing egg whites.  Take special care in separating the
whites from the yolks.  Remove every trace of yolk with the tip of a
clean spoon...because the whites will not whip well if there is yolk in
them.  Don't add anything to the whites.  Put the them through a
food mill or a medium size mesh strainer.
   As mentioned earlier, containers which are good for freezing eggs
include ice cube trays, custard cups and other small, plastic
containers.  Wrap these into tight packages that will be free of vapor
and moisture.
   Label these packages carefully, noting whether the eggs contain
salt or sugar.  After the eggs are frozen, they may be removed from
the cups or ice cube trays and stored in one large package.
   Thaw frozen eggs in the refrigerator to help keep them from
spoiling.  Use the eggs promptly after they have thawed and do not
refreeze them.
   For more information and suggestions about freezing food, call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Fish and Shellfish. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2909
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2909, "Freezing Fish and Shellfish."
        When you freeze fresh fish and shellfish, there are several
guidelines you should follow to help preserve the quality and fresh
flavor.
   First, let's look at tips on freezing fish ...then shellfish.
   When you freeze fresh fish, remove the scales, entrails and the
head if you would like.  Dip the fish in a mild lemon juice solution to
prevent it from turning dark.  Then, freeze the fish in water or glaze
it to prevent freezer burns.
   To freeze whole fish in cartons, fill the cartons with water and
freeze them -- leaving one-half inch of headspace at the top of the
cartons.  Close the containers, seal them with freezer tape and store
them.  If the fish are frozen in pans, remove the frozen blocks of fish
from the pans, wrap them in moisture-vapor-proof paper or place them
in a large freezer bag.  Seal the bags airtight and store them in the
freezer.
   To glaze fish for storage in the freezer, dip each piece of fish into
freezing water.  Put the fish back in the freezer until a thin film of
ice forms over it.  Repeat this dipping process several times until the
fish is coated completely with a jacket of ice about one-eighth of an
inch thick.  Then package the fish in moisture-vapor-proof packaging
material.
   When freezing fillets or other skinless cuts, wrap the individual
portions or fillets in plastic wrap.  Do not freeze fish fillets in milk
cartons or other containers requiring the addition of water.  Water
will drain out the flavor and make the fish mushy.
   Most fish may be stored for six months in the freezer, except for
fatty fish such as mackerel, salmon and catfish, which should be
stored only three months.
   When you freeze fresh shellfish, such as shrimp -- wash them in
cool, clean water.  Remove the heads, then wash the tails.  Then
package the tails in  airtight moisture-vapor-proof containers.
        Shrimp may be frozen in ice by covering them with water in
milk cartons or ice cream cartons.  Freeze the water and the shrimp,
leaving one-half inch of head space.  Close the cartons, seal with
freezer tape and store.  If you're freezing cooked shrimp, remove the
shells and veins before freezing them.  Then store the cooked, shelled
shrimp in airtight containers.
   If you're freezing crawfish, keep them alive until you're ready to
prepare them.  Wash the crawfish thoroughly.  Then put them in a big
pot of boiling water, using about one gallon of water for every two
pounds of crawfish.  When the water comes back to a boil, remove the
crawfish.  This should take about eight minutes.  Do not add any
seasonings to the water.  Peel the crawfish when they're cool enough
to handle.  Crawfish peel best when they're still warm. Rinse the
peeled crawfish tails in cool water to remove traces of fat.  Fat will
become rancid within two months if it's left on the tails.
       To prevent the tails from turning dark during long-term
storage, dip them in a solution of one-fourth cup of lemon juice and
two and one-half cups of water. Put the tails in moisture-vapor-proof
containers -- cover with water, close the  containers and freeze
quickly.
   Keep unshucked oysters alive in a cool, moist area until you're
ready to prepare them for freezing.  Remove the oysters from the
shells and place them in a colander to drain.  Put the oysters in
containers -- cover them with the drained liquor or water, seal
airtight and freeze immediately.         Crabs should also be kept
alive until you're ready to freeze them.  Wash the crabs thoroughly in
running water.  Then boil them for about fifteen minutes in
unseasoned water.  Cool them quickly in the refrigerator before you
pick them.  Crabs pick best when they are cold.  After you have
picked the crabs package them in moisture-vapor-proof containers.  Do
not add any water to the crab meat.  Freeze the meat immediately.
   It should be noted that crab meat freezes poorly regardless of the
technique used.  It quickly becomes stringy and often acquires a stale
taste.
        Freezer storage time for most shellfish is three months.
Shrimp stores well for twelve months.
   If you want more information on freezing fish and shellfish, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Freezing Green Beans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2910
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2910, "Freezing Green Beans."
   If you have a choice, pick your beans early in the morning, then
freeze them as quickly as possible.  Two hours from the garden to the
freezer is ideal.  Vegetables begin to deteriorate as soon as they are
harvested.  If you must store the beans for a while before you freeze
them, keep them in a cool place...preferably the refrigerator.
   Some varieties freeze better than others.  For example, the
Contender variety is early, prolific, and excellent for cooking.
However, after it has been frozen or canned, the texture is not as
firm as some of the other varieties... but it is acceptable.
   The beans you freeze should be young and tender with crisp firm
pods that snap easily.  You should discard bean pods that are wilted,
flabby, blemished or decayed.
   Sort the beans according to size and maturity.  Beans that are
about the same size look better and blanch and cook in the same
length of time.
   Here's how you get the beans ready for the freezer...first, wash the
beans several times in cold water.  While you're washing the beans,
remove those which are bruised or decayed.  After washing, remove
the ends and snap or cut the pods into one or two inch pieces.
 
Blanching is the next step...blanching is the heating of the beans   hekf       
before they're frozen.  To blanch, put about one pound of
beans...which measures out to three or four cups...in a blanching
basket, colander, wire basket or cheesecloth sack.  Drop the beans
into a gallon of boiling water and cover the container.  When the
water returns to a boil, begin counting time and blanch for three
minutes.
   At the end of the blanching time, cool the beans in ice water or
cold running water to stop the cooking process.  It takes about as
long to cool the beans as it does to blanch them.  When the beans are
cool, drain off the water.
   Package the beans in moisture-vapor-proof freezer bags or
containers.  Pack the beans tightly...and leave about one-half inch at
the top of the package.
   If you use plastic bags, press the bags from the bottom to get out
as much of the air as possible.  Also, you may want to use a
cardboard cover box to protect the bags from getting punctured and to
make them stack easier in the  freezer.
   Be sure you label the packages so that you know what is in them
and when it was frozen.
   Freeze the bean immediately at zero degrees or colder.  Do not put
more food in the freezer than will freeze in 24 hours...most home
freezers can freeze two or three pounds of food per cubic foot of
freezer space.
   If you want more information about freezing food or if you would
like to have a free pamphlet called "Freezing Green Beans," call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Meat and Poultry. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2913
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2913, "Freezing Meat and Poultry."
   When you decide to freeze meat and poultry, you decide to spend
some money...so, you will want to do a good job of preparing your
meat for the freezer to be sure you get your money's worth when the
meat comes out of the freezer.
   The quality of frozen meat depends on the quality of the meat you
choose, the way it is prepared for the freezer, and the quality of the
wrapping materials you use.
   Freeze meat while it is fresh and in top condition.  The quality of
the meat will not improve in the freezer.
   Be sure you buy the right kind of wrapping material.  Choose a
moisture-vapor-proof wrap so that you can seal out air and seal in
moisture.  The meat you buy at the grocery store usually is not
wrapped in moisture-vapor-proof freezer materials.  Remove the
cellophane and the paper or styrofoam plate and rewrap the meet for
freezing.
   There are several good wraps on the market.  Pliable wraps such as
freezer foil and transparent moisture-vapor-proof wraps and certain
types of plastic bags are good for wrapping bulky, irregularly shaped
meats.
   Freezer papers, waxed coated cartons and laminated freezer paper
are good for some cuts of meat.  Casserole dishes containing meat
sometimes are frozen in the dish in which they will be reheated or
baked.
   As you prepare the meat for freezing, trim off excess fat and
remove bones whenever it's practical.  There's nothing wrong with
freezing the bone except that it takes up more space in the freezer.
 
You should not add salt to the meat because it shortens the   eezer.dfekf       
storage life of the meat.  On the other hand, spices and freshly
ground pepper prolong the freezer life of ground pork.
   When you're freezing poultry, remove the giblet. Separate the liver
and freeze it separately...and never stuff poultry before you freeze it.
   You'll probably want to wrap your food in "family sized" packages,
but remember not to over-do it.  Smaller packages freeze more quickly
and defrost faster than larger ones.  When you wrap several chops,
patties or individual pieces of meat together, put double thicknesses of
wax paper between them so they'll be easier to separate while they're
thawing.
   When it comes to maintaining the quality of frozen food, how you
wrap is as important as what you wrap with.  If the meat is wrapped
carelessly, air comes in and moisture goes out.
   So, wrap the meat tightly pressing out as much air as you can.
One of the most popular methods of wrapping is called the drug store
wrap.  Here's how it's done.
   Place the food in the center of a sheet of foil or laminated paper.
Bring the edges of the sheet together over the meat.  Fold the paper
over to make a lock fold.  Then, continue the fold, drawing the
wrapping tightly around the food and then, press the fold flat against
the food.  Fold in both ends of the wrapping, excluding as much air
as possible.  Air left in the packages causes meat to dry out.  Also,
the oxygen in the air will cause the fat to oxidize which results in an
off-flavor in the meat.  Fold the ends of the paper under the package
to make a tight wrap.  Fold the pointed ends over and seal with
freezer tape.
   If you use plastic bags, squeeze out as much air as you can, then
twist the top tightly and close it with a rubber band or the fasteners
which came with the bags.
   Label the package properly.  Be sure to include the kind of meat,
poultry or fish, the cut, the weight, or number of servings and the
date.
    Freeze the meat at once at zero degrees Fahrenheit or colder.
Leave some air space between the packages when you first put the
meat in the freezer.  Your home freezer is not designed to freeze
several hundred pounds of meat at one time.  If you're freezing more
than five percent of the freezer capacity at one time, it is best to
have the meat frozen rapidly at a locker plant before storage.
   Putting in more than the recommended amount at one time raises
the
temperature to above zero degrees Fahrenheit.  As a result, slow freezing takes
place and large ice crystals form in the meat, causing the tissue to break down.
Then, when you thaw it, the juices seep out.
   You should check your freezer storage chart for suggested maximum
storage times.  Frozen meat will be best if it's used before the maximum time
indicated.  You will notice that pork deteriorates faster than any other
farm-produced meat because the fat tends to become rancid.
   If you need more information about freezing meat, call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Okra. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2915
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2915 "Freezing Okra."
   You can freeze okra in two forms...whole pods or cut.  First, let's
look at freezing whole pods of okra.  Wash the pods thoroughly and
cut off the stems in such a way that you don't open seed cells.  Then,
blanch the okra in boiling water to stop the action of the enzymes.
Put about a pound of washed okra in a wire basket, metal colander or
cheesecloth bag and gently drop the okra in a gallon of boiling water.
Cover the container and when the water returns to a boil, begin
counting the time...small pods should be blanched for about three
minutes...large pods about four minutes.
   Remove the pods from the boiling water and drain them.  Next,
cool the okra quickly in ice water or cold running water.  Drain off
the cold water and either leave the pods whole or slice them.  Put the
okra in airtight, moisture-vapor-poof freezing bags or containers.  Seal
the bags and freeze the packages at zero degrees or colder.
   Now, let's look at freezing cut okra.  Wash the okra and cut it
crosswise.  After the okra has been cut, it cannot be blanched in
boiling water.  So, to destroy enzyme action, heat the okra in a
skillet or in a shallow pan in the oven.  Cover the pan well with
fresh cooking oil before you put in the okra.
   Heat the pan and stir in the okra, coating it with hot oil.  Heat
the pan and the mixture in an oven at 300 degrees for about 20
minutes...or a 350 degree oven for about 12 minutes...or in a fry pan
over medium heat for six to eight minutes, stirring constantly.
 
To cool the okra quickly, transfer it from the hot pan to another   nealervice..
container and set it on ice or in a shallow pan of ice water.  If you
coat the okra with cornmeal or flour before you heat it, don't add
salt.  Package the okra and freeze it the same way as described
earlier.
   If you would like to have more information about freezing food or
if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Freezing Okra," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Pecans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2916
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2916, "Freezing Pecans."
   Pecans are a seasonal crop, so you'll want to store some in your
freezer for year-round use.  Because pecans are rich in oil, they'll
become stale or rancid quickly if they aren't stored properly.  The
main causes of rancidity are air, moisture, warm temperatures and
light.  Pecans stored properly will not be exposed to air, moisture,
warm temperatures or light.
   Pecans can be kept fresh for several years if they are stored in
the freezer.  They can be stored shelled or unshelled.  Unshelled
pecans take up valuable freezer space and they aren't ready for
immediate use, so you'll probably want to shell them before you freeze
them.
   Package shelled pecans in moisture-vapor-proof containers such as
plastic cartons, glass freezer jars, reuseable cans or plastic freezer
bags. Pack them tightly and exclude as much air as possible.
Unbroken kernels will stay fresh longer than broken ones.
   For more information on pecans or for a free pamphlet called
"Louisiana Pecans," call the home economist in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Peppers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2917
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2917, "Freezing Peppers."
   Green peppers, sometimes called bell peppers, can be frozen easily
and used later in meatloaves, soup, casseroles and other dishes.
   When you're choosing green peppers to freeze, be sure to select
crisp, thick fleshed peppers with a glossy shine.  First, wash the
peppers and split them to remove the seeds and stem.  At this point
you can chop them or leave them in halves.  It is not necessary to
blanch green peppers.  Put the peppers in a double thickness of a
vapor-proof material.
   If you have chopped your peppers and you want them to come out
of the packages easily, try freezing them in a tray.  Spread the
chopped peppers out on a cookie sheet.  Lay a piece of wax paper
loosely over the peppers and put the cookie sheet in the freezer.
After the chopped peppers are frozen, take the tray from the freezer,
put the peppers into moisutre-vapor-proof freezer containers, seal the
packages and put the peppers back in the freezer.
   You may be interested in freezing green pepper halves that you can
use as cooked stuffed peppers.  You may want to blanch peppers for
stuffing before you freeze them.  Blanch them for two minutes in
boiling water.  Chill these pepper halves and package them in freezer
containers.
   If you want to stuff your green pepper halves before you freeze
them, you can do that, too.  Just use your favorite recipe, put the
stuffed peppers in freezer containers, seal and freeze.
   For more information and suggestions about freezing food, call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Prepared Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2919
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2919, "Freezing Prepared Foods."
   Changing lifestyles have made meal preparation more demanding
than ever.  Because of our faster pace, the home freezer is a great
convenience and, in some instances, a necessity in meal preparation.
   If you want to get the most from a home freezer, you need to plan
carefully.  Besides using it for storing meats, fruits and vegetables,
you'll want to prepare dishes and party foods and freeze them for
busy days, emergencies, company and parties.
   When you prepare regular meals for your family, cook with the
freezer in mind.  Make double batches so you can serve one and
freeze the other.  This practice will save preparation time, fuel and
dishwashing.
   When you're choosing foods for freezing, choose those that are
plentiful or seasonal.  Prepare these seasonal or plentiful foods in
ways that your family likes them.  Foods that require a variety of
ingredients or special seasonings and those that take a long time to
prepare are good choices for the freezer, as are those that require
little attention from freezer to table.  Of course, you'll want to freeze
only foods that will maintain high quality for a reasonable length of
time.  Remember, too, that freezing doesn't improve quality or flavor,
so freeze only high quality foods.
   Most frozen cooked foods have a relatively short storage period
because of color, texture and flavor changes or because combined
foods may not freeze as well as individual ingredients do.
 
It's a good idea to season the food lightly before freezing and to   ,ezervice..
add more seasonings when you reheat the food.  This is because salt
loses strength in frozen storage, and seasonings like pepper, garlic and
cloves may become strong and bitter.  Onion and chili powder often
lose strength when they are frozen, too.  Curry powder may develop a
musty flavor and imitation vanilla may become strong and bitter.
   Do not overcook foods you plan to freeze.  Slight undercooking is
better when the foods are to be reheated.  Cool foods quickly by
placing pans of hot foods in a container of cold water, changing the
water often.  Cooling may be speeded up by pouring hot food into
cool, shallow containers and cooling on ice or in the refrigerator.
Solid foods should be turned occasionally, and liquids or semi-solids
should be stirred frequently while they're cooling.
   Quick cooling stops the cooking process.  It also helps the food to
retain its natural flavor, color and texture.  Quick cooling also retards
the growth of bacteria that might cause spoilage or food poisoning.
   When you are preparing food for the freezer, package it in meal-
sized portions.  Use airtight moisture-vapor-resistant containers or
wrappings.  Leave enough headspace.  Label each package with the
name of the food and the date you freeze it.  Freeze it as quickly as
possible to retain flavor, color and texture.
   Other important points include keeping frozen foods at zero
degrees or below.  Use food within recommended storage period for
highest quality.  Keep bacterial contamination at a minimum by using
clean equipment and speed in preparation, freezing and reheating. 
Remember that freezing doesn't kill all bacteria; it only slows their           
growth.  Food poisoning bacteria grow easily in high protein foods
such as meat, fish and poultry dishes, stuffings and dressings.  Other
foods in which bacteria grow readily are milk and egg dishes such as
custards and cream pies.  Keep these foods either very hot or very
cold.
   For more information about freezing prepared foods or for a free
pamphlet called "Freezing Cooked and Prepared Foods," call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Freezing Strawberries. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2920
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2920, "Freezing Strawberries."
   Louisiana grown strawberries ripen from early March to about the
middle of April.  However, you can extend the season and enjoy
strawberries all year by freezing them when they're in season.  It's
quick and easy.  Here's how you do it.
   First, select firm, ripe fruit.  Wash the berries a few at a time in
cold water...being careful as you lift the fruit from the water.  Repeat
this process two or three times until the water stays clean after the
berries are removed.  Next, remove the caps...then, use them whole or
sliced.
   Sprinkle sugar over the berries...about one cup of sugar on four or
five cups...depending on how tart the berries are and how sweet you
like them.  Gently turn the berries with a large spoon until all of
them are coated with sugar and juice.  One teaspoon of commercial
ascorbic acid mixture stirred into each cup of sugar before you put it
on the berries will help protect the bright red color and the vitamin
C.
   Pack the strawberries in moisture-vapor-proof containers.  Fill the
containers to within about a half-inch of the top of the package.  You
can put a small piece of crumpled freezer paper or waxed paper on
top to hold the berries under the juice.  Seal the package airtight and
label it.  Freeze the berries as quickly as possible and store them at
zero degrees Fahrenheit.
   You can freeze berries without sugar...however, texture, color and
flavor will not be as good as if you had used sugar.  To freeze whole
berries without sugar, put them in a single layer on a tray or a
baking pan, cover them lightly with waxed paper or freezer paper, and
freeze them quickly.  Then, take the berries from the pan and put
them in an airtight, moisture-vapor-proof container.
 
If you want more information about freezing strawberries or if you   tdt        
would like to have a free pamphlet called "It's Strawberry Time," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Summer Squash. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2921
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2921, "Freezing Summer Squash."
   You can enjoy the delicate, distinctive flavor of summer squash all
year if you freeze some while it is plentiful.  For freezing squash,
choose tender young squash with small seeds.  Wash it thoroughly in
cold water and trim off both ends.  Cut the squash into slices about
one-quarter or one-half inch thick.  Blanch the squash in boiling
water to stop the action of enzymes.
   To blanch, put about one pound of prepared squash in a wire
basket, metal colander or cheesecloth bag.  Immerse the squash in a
large pan of rapidly boiling water.  When the water returns to boiling,
begin counting time and boil for three minutes.  Remove the squash
from the boiling water, drain it and chill it quickly in ice water or
cold running water for three to five minutes, or until the squash is
completely cool.  Drain and package the squash in airtight, moisture-
vapor-proof freezing bags or containers.  Freeze at zero degrees or
below.  Don't try to freeze more squash than can freeze completely in
24 hours--
 about three pounds per cubic foot of freezer space.
   If you would like more information on freezing squash, or if you
would like to have a free pamphlet called "Freezing Summer Squash,"
call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Sweet Potatoes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2922
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2922, "Freezing Sweet Potatoes."
   Here in Louisiana sweet potatoes are sometimes called yams and
they can be frozen in several different forms...such as baked, boiled or
mashed, and candied.
   If you want to freeze baked yams, you should choose small to
medium sized, well-cured potatoes.  Scrub them and grease the surface
of each.  Bake the yams at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 minutes,
then reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees until the potatoes
are about 75 percent cooked.  Cool the potatoes, wrap them
individually in foil and store them together in a freezer bag or freezer
paper at zero degrees Fahrenheit.  When you take the yams from the
freezer to use them, leave them in the foil to thaw and finish
baking.
   When you choose to freeze yams either boiled or mashed, you
should leave the skins on and cook them until they're almost tender.
Cool the yams enough to peel them, then cut or mash them.  To keep
the potatoes from turning dark, dip them in a solution of ascorbic acid
dissolved in a little water.  You can also dip them in lemon juice or
orange juice.  Next, mix the juice or the ascorbic acid mixture with
the mashed potatoes.  Pack the potatoes tightly in containers leaving
one-half inch at the top.  Cover the surface snugly with a layer of
freezer paper.  Seal the packages and freeze them at zero degrees
Fahrenheit.
 
Here's how you freeze candied yams.  First, peel the yams and cut   gidr        
them into quarter-inch or half-inch slices.  Blanch the slices for three
minutes in boiling water. Then, drain and cool them quickly.  If you
have four medium sized yams, mix one cup of sugar, one tablespoon of
flour, one teaspoon of ascorbic acid mixture and a dash of salt.  Mix
these ingredients with the sliced potatoes.  Package them in freezer
bags or a baking pan.  Seal the packages and freeze them at zero
degrees Fahrenheit.
   To cook the potatoes, place the mixture in a baking dish.  Sprinkle
one teaspoon cinnamon and one tablespoon of lemon juice over the
mixture.  Dot the potatoes with four tablespoons of butter and pour
one-fourth of a cup of water over the mixture.  Bake at 375 to 400
degrees Fahrenheit for about an hour or until the potatoes are tender.
   If you need more information about freezing yams or if you would
like to have a free pamphlet called "Freezing Yams or Sweet
Potatoes," call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Tomatoes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2923
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2923, "Freezing Tomatoes."
   You can freeze tomatoes and tomato juice if you follow these
general instructions.
   To freeze tomato juice, you'll need to wash, sort and trim some
firm, vine-ripened tomatoes.  Cut them into quarters or eighths.
Simmer them for five to ten minutes, then press them through a sieve
and season them to taste.  Pour the tomato juice into containers,
being sure to leave some space at the top.  Seal the containers and
freeze.
   To freeze stewed tomatoes, you should wash some ripe tomatoes,
remove stem ends, and peel and cut them into quarters.  Cover the
tomatoes and cook them until they're tender -- from ten to twenty
minutes.  Place the pan containing the stewed tomatoes in cold water
to cool.  Pack stewed tomatoes into containers, leaving some space at
the top.  Seal the cartons and freeze.
   If you would like more information on freezing tomatoes and other
vegetables, or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called
"Freezing Vegetables," call the home economist in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Seafood, Materials Needed. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2924
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2924, "Freezing Seafood, Materials Needed."
   Most of the flavor and color changes found in your frozen seafood
are probably due to improper packaging materials that allow air to
penetrate. Containers and packaging materials must be airtight,
moisture-proof and vapor-proof to lock in flavor.
   Good containers are odorless, tasteless, clean, durable and flexible
enough not to crack at zero degree Fahrenheit.  Cling-type plastic
wrapping is one of the best kinds of materials to use.  It's an
excellent barrier to air and water vapor.  However, it may become
brittle at freezing temperatures. For extra precaution -- after freezing
small portions of fish in the cling-type wrapping, package them in
large moisture-vapor-proof bags.
   Polyethylene plastic freezer bags are good moisture barriers, but
may allow air inside.  The bags provide excellent protection for glazed
fish wrapped in cling-type plastic.
   Heavy-duty aluminum foil also guards against moisture and vapor.
But foil may develop holes which allow moisture and vapor penetration.
   Metal cans with airtight lids, glass freezer jars and rigid plastic
freezer containers provide excellent protection.
   Milk cartons and ice cream cartons may also be used for freezing
seafood.  Put the seafood in the cartons and cover it completely with
water.  The ice will protect the seafood from air after it is frozen.
After freezing, close the cartons, seal with freezer tape and store.
   For more on materials needed for freezing seafood, contact the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Making Syrups for Freezing Fruits. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2926
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2926, "Making Syrups for Freezing Fruits."
   The type of syrup you will make to freeze fruit will depend on
which fruit you are freezing and how sweet your family likes frozen
fruit.
   To retain the flavor of mild-flavored fruits, use a light syrup made
from two cups of sugar and four cups of water.  Most fruits will do
well when they are packed in a medium syrup.  A medium syrup is
made by mixing three cups of sugar with four cups of water.  If you
are freezing fruits that turn dark when they are exposed to air, you'll
need to add an anti-browning agent, such as pure ascorbic acid or a
commercial mixture, to the syrup.
   Follow label directions for using commercial mixtures.  The general
recommendations are one tablespoon of the mixture to a cup of sugar.
Use one-half teaspoon of crystalline or powdered ascorbic acid for
each quart of syrup.  For pears, however, you'll need to add a
teaspoon of crystalline or powered ascorbic acid for each quart of
syrup.  Mix the powder with a little cold water before adding it to
the syrup.
   For more information on freezing fruits or for a free pamphlet
called, "Freezing Fruits," call the home economist in your parish office
of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Freezer Odor. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2927
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2927, "Removing Freezer Odor."
   Objectionable odors in the freezer may be caused by food that has
been left in the freezer too long, food that has been packaged
improperly, or by food that has spoiled when the electricity was off.
Several different solutions can be used to clean the interior surface of
the freezer.  Try them one at a time.  Rinse the freezer surfaces well
and dry them before trying another.  Don't mix ingredients in
different solutions.
   Baking soda and water may do the job.  Use two tablespoons of
baking soda to a quart of water.  If the odor remains, try a vinegar
and water solution.  The formula is one cup of vinegar to one gallon
of water.  Household ammonia and water is another choice.  Use one
cup of ammonia to a gallon of water.  Household chlorine bleach may
be effective.  Use one-half cup of bleach to one gallon of water.  No
matter which solution you choose, rinse well with clear water after
cleaning.
   If odor remains, leave crumpled newspaper in the freezer for a
time.  Charcoal briquettes or activated charcoal in an open container
may help remove remaining odor.  Other choices include coffee
grounds or kitty litter left in the freezer in an open container.
   If odor-causing moisture has been absorbed by the insulation of the
freezer, the odor may be impossible to remove.  Odor-retaining
moisture that has wet the insulation is usually the source of odor if
the interior surface has been cleaned and rinsed and an unpleasant
odor still remains.  In this case, all you can do is hope the insulation
dries out if you don't want to replace the expensive insulation.  
Heat and air circulation may help.  In the meantime, if you use the             
freezer for storage, double wrap all food placed inside.  As soon as
you take food from the freezer, remove the outer wrapping before the
food thaws.  The odor should be in the outer wrapping, so food will
not be affected.
   For more information and suggestions about using and taking care
of the appliances in your home, call the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Odors from a Refrigerator. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2928
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2928, "Removing Odors from a Refrigerator."
   If you leave food in the refrigerator too long or store improperly
packaged food, it may leave an unpleasant odor in the refrigerator.
The same thing happens if food spoils while the electricity is off.  To
remove the odor, try one of the following solutions.  If the first
solution you try doesn't work, then try another.  Do not mix
ingredients in these solutions.  Here are four solutions for you to try
one at a time:  1)  Baking soda and water.  Mix two tablespoons of
soda with a quart of water.  2)  Vinegar and water.  Use one cup of
vinegar for a gallon of water.  3)  Household ammonia and water.
Use one cup of ammonia for a gallon of water.  4)  Household
chlorine bleach.  Use one-half cup of bleach for a gallon of water.
   Apply the solution you choose with a soft cloth, rinse and dry
surface area well before trying another solution.  If odor remains, try
leaving one of the following in an open container in the refrigerator:
coffee grounds, kitty litter, baking soda or a few charcoal briquettes.
Cotton balls saturated with vanilla extract and placed inside may help
cover remaining odor.
   If the odor is in the insulation, no amount of scrubbing or
absorption material will help.  In this case, all you can do besides
replacing the expensive insulation is to hope the insulation will
eventually dry out.
   Sometimes heat and air circulation will help remove odors.  In the
meantime, double-wrap food that you place in the freezer.  As soon as
you remove the food from the freezer to thaw it for use, remove the
outer wrapping.  Generally the odor will be in the outer wrapping and
the food won't be affected.  Keep all other foods covered while they
are in the refrigerator. 
To prevent odors from being absorbed by refrigerator surfaces,                  
clean the surfaces regularly with mild detergent and water or a
solution of baking soda and water.  Use a soft cloth, and avoid
abrasive cleaners.
   Defrost manual freezer units regularly, at least when frost is one-
quarter inch thick.  Remove and discard ice from trays or ice maker
periodically because ice retains odors.  If you spill food in the
refrigerator, wipe and clean it immediately.  Food spills create odors
and stains.
   The defrost pan on automatic defrost models needs to be cleaned
periodically, too.  It's usually located under the grill at the bottom of
the refrigerator.  Remove the grill and you'll see the pan on one side
and the condenser coils on the other.  Pull the pan out and clean it.
Remove dust from the condenser with a brush or the dusting
attachment of your vacuum cleaner.  Wipe up any spills on the floor
around the bottom of the refrigerator and under the grill.  Periodic
cleaning will help to remove odors in and around the refrigerator.
   For more information and suggestions about household cleaning, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Preventing Darkening of Fruits When Freezing. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2929
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2929, "Preventing Darkening of Fruits When Freezing."
   Light-colored fruits like apples, peaches, pears and bananas turn
dark quickly once they're cut because of the reaction of oxygen in the
air and the natural enzymes in the fruit.  They darken even more
during storage unless they are treated with an anti-oxidant.  You can
use sugar and lemon juice to help prevent darkening, but you'll get
better results by using ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and sugar or a
commercial color control mixture of ascorbic acid, citric acid and
sugar.  These mixtures are available in grocery stores and drug stores
under various trade names.
   When you're using commercial mixtures, follow label directions.
Usually the recommendations are one tablespoon of the mixture to a
cup of sugar.  Use one-half teaspoon of crystalline or powdered
ascorbic acid (vitamin C) for each quart of syrup, except for pears.
For pears, use one teaspoon for each quart.  Dissolve the ascorbic
acid in a little cold water before adding to syrup.  Crystalline or
powered ascorbic acid is more satisfactory than tablets.  If you use
tablets, crush them before you use them and mix them with a little
water.  One-half teaspoon of crystalline ascorbic acid is equal to 1500
milligrams of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in tablet form.
   For more information on how to freeze fruits and keep them from
turning dark, or for a free pamphlet called "Freezing Fruits," call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Preventing Freezer Burn. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2930
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2930, "Preventing Freezer Burn."
   Poorly packaged frozen food dries out, loses its original freshness
and its natural colors, flavors and nutritive values.  The process,
called freezer burn, is irreversible and affected portions of the
"burned" food should be discarded.  Also, the loss of moisture from
poorly packaged frozen food adds to frost from other moisture
sources and increases the defrosting task for the freezer or for you.
   Frozen foods must be packaged in containers that close tightly.  If
oxygen can reach the food, it will speed poor meat flavors, darken
light-colored fruits, and may cause boilable pouches to burst.  Oxygen
won't damage vegetables as much as it does other foods, because
vegetables are protected somewhat by a natural, built-in anti-oxidant.
   Protect all your foods by choosing packaging material that is
moisture-vapor-resistant.  Rigid containers made of aluminum, glass or
plastic work well because water and vapor can't pass through them.
Don't use butcher paper or waxed paper for freezing.  They aren't
vapor resistant.  All wraps should be strong enough to be handled and
frozen without tearing.
   Popular polyethylene bags are excellent to freeze food in if they
are from one-and-a-half to three mils thick.  Thinner bags won't
protect the food, and thicker ones are hard to twist adequately at the
top for sealing.  Good bags cost more money than thin ones, but they
will protect food and they can be reused.  Other good packaging
materials include heavy aluminum foil and laminated and coated sheets.
Use just enough to cover the food and make a good closure. 
Handle frozen foods with respect.  Adding the proper packaging to               
good food and using the right freezer temperature will yield the best-
tasting food.
   If you would like to have more information on freezing foods, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Refreezing Thawed Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2931
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2931, "Refreezing Thawed Foods."
   If you're uncertain about which frozen foods can be refrozen after
thawing, here are some guidelines to follow.  Remember, though, that
while many frozen foods may be refrozen without danger, they may be
lacking in some of their original quality.
   Meats -- Do not refreeze meats that have warmed to room
temperature and have thawed completely.  Red meats that have
thawed completely should be cooked immediately.  You can refreeze
them after cooking.  Partially thawed variety meats, sausages and
hamburgers should be cooked immediately.
   Fruits -- Use completely thawed fruits immediately.  Fruit may be
refrozen, but some of the quality will be lost.
   Prepared Foods -- These include meats in cream sauces, frozen
dinners, cream pies and leftovers.  If these prepared foods thaw
completely, cook them immediately or discard them.
   Frozen Juices -- Reconstitute thawed juice according to directions
and use it.
   Fish -- If fish thaws completely, cook it and eat it immediately or
throw it out.  It can spoil rapidly.
   Poultry -- If poultry has thawed but is still quite cold to the
touch, you can cook and refreeze it.  Throw away stuffed poultry that
has thawed.
   Vegetables -- Vegetables that still have ice crystals may be
refrozen, but use them as quickly as possible.  You can refreeze plain
vegetables (those without sauces) if they haven't been held at room
temperature too long.  Vegetables can be cooked and refrozen
separately or as ingredients in a casserole or other dish. 
Breads -- Thawed breads can be refrozen, but freshness may be                   
affected.
   Cakes -- Cakes may be refrozen, but they may become dry and the
icing may be affected.
   Pies -- All pies, except for cream pies, can be refrozen.  Some
weeping and breaking of the filling may occur, and the crust may lose
texture.
   For more information about food care and preparation, call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Steps in Freezing Fruits. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2932
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2932, "Steps in Freezing Fruits."
   How you freeze fruit depends on the particular fruit that you're
freezing...all fruits are not frozen the same way.  For instance, some
fruits such as berries...are frozen whole after they are ripened and
washed.  Other fruits such as peaches and apples must be peeled and
sliced before they're frozen.
   Also, fruits may be frozen with or without sugar or syrup.  In
some cases, sugar or syrup helps the fruit hold its fresh flavor and
color.
   One way to make syrup for freezing fruits is to help the fruit
make its own.  For example, when you're freezing soft, sliced fruits
such as peaches, strawberries, figs, deseeded grapes and cherries...you
can cover them with sugar for a few minutes before you freeze them
and they will make enough syrup on their own for you to cover them
in the freezer packages.
   Another way to make syrup is to mix one part of sugar with an
equal part of water and stir the mixture until the sugar dissolves.
You don't need to heat it.
   When you're slicing light colored fruits such as peaches, apples and
pears, you'll find that they tend to turn brown if you don't do
something to stop it.  You can stop most of this discoloration by
quickly covering the sliced fruit with powdered, pure, ascorbic
acid...which is really vitamin C. Or, you can stop this discoloration by
covering the fruit with a fruit-freeze mixture containing ascorbic acid.
You can get acorbic acid at many drug stores and in the canning-
freezing sections of many grocery stores.
 
Here's how you use the acorbic acid.  If you're using what's called   d.        
a sugar pack to freeze your fruit, add one-half teaspoon of powdered
, pure ascorbic acid to each pound of sugar and mix it thoroughly
with four to six pounds of fruit.  If you use a commercial mix
containing ascorbic acid, follow the directions on the label of that
mix.
   If you're using  what's called the syrup pack to freeze your fruit,
add one-half teaspoon pure, ascorbic acid to one quart of water and
one quart of sugar.  Then, mix this ascorbic acid, water and sugar
mixture to four to six quarts of fruit.
   Another syrup pack method is to add three tablespoons of lemon
juice to one quart of water and one quart of sugar and then mix all
this with four quarts of fruit.
   When you freeze fruit in a sugar or syrup pack, you should be sure
you use leak-proof containers such as glass jars, plastic cartons, or
bags and boxes.  Squeeze out the air, seal the package, label it and
freeze it quickly.
   Boysenberries, blueberries, cranberries, raspberries, blackberries and
dewberries may be frozen without sugar or syrup...this is called a dry
pack.
   Generally, frozen fruits will hold their quality for about a year.
   For more information and suggestions about freezing fruits or for a
free pamphlet called "Freezing Fruits," call the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
What to Do When the Freezer Stops. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2934
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2934, "What to Do When the Freezer Stops."
   Don't panic if your electricity has gone off or if your freezer goes
on the blink.  A fully-loaded freezer that has been operating at zero
degrees Fahrenheit will usually stay cold enough to keep foods frozen
for a couple of days, even when the weather is hot.  If the freezer is
only half full, however, food may not stay frozen for more than a day.
Keep the freezer door closed as much as possible.
   If the problem means more than a day or two without power, you'll
need to try to protect your food.  Putting dry ice in the freezer can
keep your food frozen.  Look in the yellow pages of your telephone
directory for suppliers of dry ice.  For a 20-cubic foot freezer that is
full of food, you'll need 25 pounds of dry ice.  This should keep your
food frozen for about two days.  If the freezer is only about half full,
the dry ice will protect your food for a day or two.
   Here's how to use dry ice.  Put some thick cardboard or layers of
newspaper on top of the food and place the dry ice on the cardboard.
Be sure to wear gloves when you handle dry ice, and work quickly.
   If the power or your freezer will be off for more than two or
three days, you may need to transfer the food to another freezer.
Wrap food in newspapers and place it in coolers.  Work quickly,
especially in hot weather.
   If you need more information, call the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Freezing Figs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2936
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2936, "Freezing Figs."
   When you decide to freeze figs, be sure to choose fully-ripe fruit.
You can freeze figs with sugar or without sugar and with or without
their peels.  Wash the figs thoroughly, remove their stems and peel
them if that's what you prefer.  You can either cut them in half or
leave them whole.  Freeze figs with or without sugar syrup.
   If you want to use a syrup, dissolve one cup of sugar in two cups
of water.  Make one cup of syrup for each quart of figs you plan to
freeze.
   To keep figs from turning dark, stir three-fourths teaspoon of
crystalline ascorbic acid into each quart of syrup or use a commercial
ascorbic acid mixture according to label directions.
   Fill the freezer containers about one-fourth full of syrup and pack
the fresh figs solidly in the container.  Cover the figs with syrup, but
leave one inch of headspace.  Crumple some waxed paper and put it on
top of the figs in the headspace.  This will help keep the figs under
the syrup.  Seal the package airtight and freeze it immediately at zero
degrees Fahrenheit.
   To freeze figs without syrup, sprinkle them with ascorbic acid
mixture dissolved in a little water.  Place the figs on a baking sheet
and freeze them quickly.  Remove the individually frozen figs and
place them in jars leaving an inch of headspace.  Place crumpled
waxed paper in the headspace or cover the surface snugly with plastic
film.  Seal the jar airtight and freeze at zero degrees Fahrenheit.
   If you want to freeze figs to make preserves later, first heat firm-
ripe whole figs to a boil and then let them set for three or four
minutes.  Then, drain, cool and freeze.          For more
information on using figs, or for a free publication called "Ways With
Figs," call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Drying Figs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3103
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3103, "Drying Figs."
   Dried figs are rich in flavor and great for snacks and for baking
cookies, cakes, muffins or breads.
   If you plant to dry figs in the oven, select and wash fully ripe
figs.  Dissolve one cup of sugar in three cups of water and bring the
mixture to a boil.  Add the figs and simmer them for ten minutes.
Remove the figs by lifting them from mixture.  Drain and cool the figs
and place them in a single layer on a drying rack.  You can use a
broiler pan rack or cake rack for a drying rack.  Set your oven at its
lowest temperature.  A low, even temperature of 115 to 120 degrees
Fahrenheit should be maintained for 10 to 20 hours.  Leave the door
propped open slightly so moisture can escape.  If you use a gas oven,
be sure that it doesn't go out.
   Dry the figs until the outsides are firm to the touch and the
insides are soft with no signs of syrup when squeezed.
   To save energy, you may want to sun-dry your figs.  Figs will dry
well outside on hot, sunny days.  They should dry in about two days.
Bring them in each day at sundown.  They will also dry well in a car
parked in the sun.
   To dry figs in the sun, wash fully ripe figs, leaving stems on.  Cut
the figs completely in half to the stem and turn the cut side up on
the drying rack.  Cover the figs with a piece of cheesecloth or nylon
net to keep insects off.  Put the drying rack on a table, a car or a
roof in full sun.  Dry until outside is leathery, but pliable.  Inside
should be soft, with no sign of juice. 
For longest storage life, place the dried figs in the refrigerator or           
freezer in moisture-proof bags or containers.  Figs can be stored at
room temperature if they're completely free of juice.  To store, first
reheat the figs at 160 to 180 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 to 15 minutes,
then place them in moisture-proof containers.  If you use glass jars,
heat clear jars in oven until they are dry and hot.  Pack the hot figs
into the hot jars and seal.  When they are cool, examine the jars for
signs of moisture.  If you find moisture, reheat the figs and repack
them in hot, dry jars.  Moisture will cause mold to grow which will
spoil the figs.
   For more information and suggestions about drying other foods or
for a free pamphlet called "Ways with Figs," call the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Drying Peaches.  
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3105
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3105, "Drying Peaches. "
   Dried peaches can be a real space saver when it comes to storing
peaches for later use.  Dried peaches are a great snack and they're
delicious in breads, pies and cakes.
   To dry peaches in the oven, select about three pounds of fully
ripened peaches.  Wash, peel, pit and slice them into wedges.  Mix one
cup of sugar in three cups of water and heat the mixture to boiling.
Add the fruit and simmer it for ten minutes.  Remove the peaches
from the heat and let them stand in syrup ten minutes or longer.
Drain them well and spread them in single layers on a drying rack
such as a broiler pan.  Then, put the peaches in the oven to dry.  A
low, even temperature of about 115 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit should
be maintained for ten to fifteen hours.  You may increase the
temperature to 150 degrees toward the end of drying time.
   Prop the oven door open two to four inches so excess heat and
moisture can escape.  A small fan directed inside the oven will
circulate the air and shorten the drying time.  If you have a gas oven,
be sure it doesn't go out.
   If you plan to store peaches in the refrigerator or freezer, dry the
fruit until it is firm but not leathery.  The inside should be soft with
no sign of syrup when squeezed.  They may be compressed in
moisture-vapor-proof bags and need very little space for storage. 
To store at room temperature, dry the peaches until they're                     
leathery but still pliable.  Cool the peaches and pack them in dry,
scalded containers that are airtight and insect-proof.  Close the
container tightly and store it in a cool, dark, dry place.  Check
containers from time to time to see if the moisture has collected on
the inside of containers.  If there is moisture, reheat the peaches,
cool and repack.  Moisture causes spoilage.
   For more information and suggestions about drying other foods or
for a free pamphlet called "Ways with Peaches," call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Drying Pears. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3106
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3106, "Drying Pears."
   To dry pears in the oven, select about two pounds of fully ripened
pears.  Wash, peel, core and slice the pears.  If the pears are a hard
variety, you may need to pre-cook them in a little water until they
are soft.  Dissolve one cup of sugar in three cups of water and heat
the mixture to boiling.  Then, remove it from the heat and let the
fruit stand in the syrup for ten minutes.  Drain pears well and spread
them into single layers on a drying rack.  Put the pears in the oven
set at its lowest temperature.  Keep the oven at an even temperature
of about 115 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit for ten to fifteen hours.
Temperature may be increased to 150 degrees toward the end of drying
time.  Prop the oven door open an inch or two so excess heat and
moisture can escape.  If you use a gas oven, be sure it doesn't go out.
   If you plan to store pears in the refrigerator or freezer, dry pears
until they're firm but not leathery.  The inside should be soft but it
should show no sign of syrup when the pears are squeezed.
Compressed in moisture-vapor-proof bags, dried pears require little
storage space.
   If you store your pears at room temperature, dry them until they
are leathery but still pliable.  Pack pears in hot, dry jars and seal
them immediately.  Store in a dark, cool place.  Be sure to check the
containers often to see if moisture is collecting on the inside.
Moisture will cause pears to spoil, so if there is moisture, reheat the
pears and repack them in hot, dry jars. 
Dried pears are good snacks and are flavorful additions to cookies,             
muffins, breads, fruit cakes and mincemeat.
   If you would like more information and suggestions about drying
other foods or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Ways
with Pears,"  call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                                Service. your parish office of theays           
-End-
-Title-
Drying Food in the Microwave Oven. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/20/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3107
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3107,
"Drying Food in the Microwave Oven."
   Drying...or dehydration...is a method of preserving food by removing
the moisture from it.  Commercially, this is done mechanically in a
heated air dryer.  You can dry food in your home with a conventional
oven, a dehydrator or sunlight.  Most home dehydrators have
controlled heating systems that use light bulbs and a heater or solar
power.
   The weather in Louisiana makes it hard to dry foods in a
microwave oven.  The humidity is usually too high to dry most foods
successfully.  When you are drying foods, you must carefully control
the humidity.  If the humidity is too high, the food will re-absorb
moisture as quickly as it is removed.
   The ideal temperatures for drying food are between 115 and 165
degrees Fahrenheit.  It's hard to control microwave heat by
temperature so the keys to success are quantity, timing and power
level.
   A microwave oven isn't intended to replace a dehydrator...but small
amounts of certain low-moisture foods can be dried in a microwave
oven.  These include...herbs, citrus peel and mushrooms.
   You'll need cardboard cut to fit inside the oven or a paperboard
tray and paper towels.  Don't use recycled paper towels in a
microwave oven.  These may contain small bits of metal from the
recycling process and can create sparks or cause the paper to ignite.
 
Here's how you dry herbs:   eate sparks or cause the paper to ignite.l          
   Wash and dry fresh herbs.  Remove the stems and place the leaves
in a measuring cup to measure them.  Cut a piece of carboard to fit
inside the oven or use a paperboard tray.  Cover the paper with two
layers of paper towels.  Sprinkle herbs evenly in a circle onto the
towel.  Leave the center empty.  Set the microwave oven cook level
to "high" and heat the herbs until they're dry and brittle.  For one
cup of herbs, heat for about three to four minutes. For two cups, heat
for five-and-a-half to six minutes.  For three cups, heat seven-and-a-
half to eight minutes...and for five cups, heat ten to eleven minutes.
   Next, cool the herbs, crush them to the desired fineness and store
them in an air-tight container.  The final, crushed product will be
about one-fourth as much as the fresh product.  You should use about
one teaspoon of dried herbs for each tablespoon of fresh herbs.
   Here's how to dry citrus peel.  And, just as an example, I will use
lemon peel.  First, wash and dry six lemons.  Grate the yellow outer
layer to measure three-fourths of a cup.  Cut a piece of carboard to
fit inside of the oven or use a paperboard tray.  Cover the tray with
two layers of paper towels.  Sprinkle the grated peel in a circle
evenly onto the towels.  Leave the center empty.  The microwave
power should be set on two-thirds for twelve to thirteen minutes or
until the peel is dry.  Re-arrange the peel once.  Cool the peel and
store it in an air-tight container.  The yield of dried peel should be
about one-third as much as the fresh peel.
 
Here's how you dry mushrooms...Wash and dry fresh, firm   el should be          
mushrooms.  Remove the stems and slice the mushrooms
thinly....measure one cup.  Cut a piece of cardboard to fit inside the
oven or use a paperboard tray.  Cover the paper with two layers of
paper toweling.  Arrange mushrooms in a circle in a single layer.
Again, leave the center empty.  Set the microwave power on high for
three-and-a-half to four minutes.  Rotate the mushrooms.  Heat them
on one-third power for four-and-a-half to five minutes.  Cool the
mushrooms and store them in an air-tight container.
   For more information and suggestions about drying food, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cooking Dry Soybeans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3153
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3153, "Cooking Dry Soybeans."
   Before you cook dry soybeans, sort them and remove any beans
that are discolored, cracked or shriveled.  Wash the beans thoroughly
and soak them at least four hours or overnight.  To soak, add four
cups of warm water and two teaspoons of baking soda to each cup of
dry beans.  One cup of dry beans will yield about two and one-half
cups of cooked beans.
   After the beans have soaked, bring them to a boil in the soaking
water and simmer for 20 minutes.  Then, drain the beans and rinse
them in fresh water.  Rub the beans between your fingers and most of
the husks will float to the top of the water and can be rinsed away.
Cover the beans completely with boiling water and add more water
while they're cooking if it's needed.  Add one to two teaspoons of oil
or margarine to reduce foaming.  Add one teaspoon of sugar, and salt
and pepper to taste.  Simmer the beans for one-and-a-half to two
hours or until they're tender.  Serve cooked dry soybeans like you
serve other dry beans or use them to make baked beans.
   Remember:  The protein in soybeans is almost comparable in quality
to animal protein.  To be a complete protein, it needs only to be
combined with a small amount of meat, milk or a cereal grain such as
rice.  Soybeans are also rich in calcium, iron, phosphorus and some of
the B vitamins.
   For more information and suggestions about cooking vegetables or
for a free pamphlet called "Soybeans, the Golden Nugget," call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cooking Green Soybeans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3157
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3157, "Cooking Green Soybeans."
   Fresh, green soybeans are available in some areas in late summer
or fall.  Vegetable soybeans are the kind used for cooking.  They are
larger and milder than the field soybeans used for making oil and
commercial flour.
Vegetable soybeans look like butter beans or lima beans.  When you're
buying vegetable soybeans to cook, each pod will usually have two
beans and the pods should be bright green and plump.  Soybean pods
are fuzzy on the outside and you don't eat them.
   To shell fresh soybeans, first cover them with boiling water and let
them soak for three minutes.  Remove the beans and rinse them in
cold water.  Break the pods crosswise and squeeze out the beans.  One
pound of beans in the pod will yield about one and two-thirds cups of
ready-to-cook beans.
   To cook soybeans, add two cups of shelled soybeans to one cup of
boiling water.  Add one-half teaspoon of salt or salt substitute.  When
the water and the beans return to a boil, cover them and cook them
gently for ten or twenty minutes.  The beans will become tender as
you cook them, but they won't get mushy because they contain a lot
of protein and oil and almost no starch.  Soybeans are a good source
of vitamins A and C, too.  Season the beans with margarine and serve
them as a vegetable or use them instead of limas in some of your
favorite recipes.
   Children may like green soy nuts.  Prepare soy nuts by cooking
unshelled green soybeans in boiling, salted water for 30 minutes or
until they're tender.  Eat the soy nuts like boiled peanuts. 
If you would like more information and suggestions about cooking                
and serving vegetables or if you would like to have a free pamphlet
called "Soybeans, the Golden Nugget," call the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cooking Green Vegetables 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3158
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3158, "Cooking Green Vegetables".
   Don't overcook green vegetables!  The best way to ensure the best
flavor, color, texture and food value is to cook vegetables only until
they are tender.  The less water you use in cooking, and the shorter
the cooking time, the more nutrients will stay in the vegetables.  Dark
green vegetables are excellent sources of vitamins A and C.
   Green vegetables contain chlorophyll, the green pigment.  If you
overcook vegetables, or cook them in an acid liquid, they will lose the
attractive green color and become drab olive-green or brown.  Leave
the lid off for the first five minutes of cooking.  This will allow the
plant acids to escape in the steam and help to prevent some of the
discoloration.
   Here are some suggestions for cooking green vegetables:
   -- Cook green vegetables quickly in a small amount of boiling,
salted
   water.
   -- Cook until just tender.
   -- Don't add acid, such as lemon juice or vinegar, to vegetables.
   -- Never add a pinch of baking soda to vegetables.  It will
preserve the
   green color, because it makes the water alkaline, but it destroys
   vitamins and makes vegetables mushy.
   You might want to stir-fry green vegetables like broccoli.  Cook
and stir chopped vegetables in a small amount of hot oil in a frying
pan or a wok.  Remove vegetables from oil as soon as they are crisp-
tender.  If you serve green vegetables often, you can cut calories and
overall food costs and, at the same time, improve the nutritional
quality of your meals. 
For more information about cooking and serving vegetables, call the             
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cooking Red or Purple Vegetables. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3160
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3160, "Cooking Red or Purple Vegetables."
   The red, blue and purple pigments found in vegetables such as red
cabbage, radishes and beets dissolve easily when they are cooked.  Tap
water that contains a lot of minerals may cause an even greater color
change in these vegetables.  If you want to intensify the color, add a
weak acid such as lemon juice or vinegar to these vegetables when
you cook them.
   Try these suggestions to retain the color and flavor of red and
purple vegetables:  Cook red vegetables in a moderate amount of
lightly salted water. Cook them with the lid on.  Add lemon juice,
orange juice or diluted vinegar to make the color brighter red.  When
you are cooking beets, leave the skins on, roots on and part of the
stem intact.  If you don't, much of the color will dissolve in the
cooking water.  Peel beets after cooking.  To keep cabbage from
turning blue when it's cook, add an apple, a little lemon juice or a
little vinegar during cooking.
   For more information and suggestions about food preparation, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Cooking Sulfur-containing Vegetables. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:
Area:

                           TeleTip 3161
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3161, "Cooking Sulfur-containing Vegetables."
   Some vegetables contain sulfur compounds which break down during
cooking.  This affects both color and flavor.  Among these sulfur-
containing vegetables are cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli and turnips.
When you overcook these vegetables, the sulfur compounds break
down, producing strong flavors, disagreeable odors, unattractive colors
and often the "indigestion" people complain about.
   To prepare these vegetables successfully, remember to cook them in
a moderate amount of boiling water and cook until just tender, no
longer.  When you cook vegetables of the cabbage family, leave the lid
off so some of the sulfur compounds can escape in the steam produced
by boiling.
   You can get more information about cooking and proper nutrition
from the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Cooking Sweet Potatoes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3162
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3162, "Cooking Sweet Potatoes."
   The easiest ways to cook sweet potatoes or yams are also the best
ways to cook them.  Yams are more flavorful and more nutritious
when they are cooked in their jackets either by boiling or baking.
Baking makes the most of the natural sugars found just under the
skin, carmelizing these sugars for a delicious, syrupy taste.  Baking or
boiling yams in their jackets also preserves the vitamin C which is
located just under the skin.  After potatoes are baked or boiled, the
skins will slip off easily.  Eat the baked or boiled yams just as they
are or use them in sweet potato dishes.
   Louisiana's successful golden yams are the product of years of
extensive research conducted by scientists in the Louisiana State
University Agricultural Center.  They've developed improved varieties
that have a soft, moist flesh and smooth, stringless texture.  These
improved varieties are sweet and flavorful, have much more Vitamin A,
grow well in Louisiana's rich soil and favorable climate, and are more
resistant to soil rot and disease.
   Whether you're baking or boiling sweet potatoes, select potatoes
about the same size for even cooking.  Scrub them well and dry them.
Don't cover potatoes with foil if you bake them.  Instead, rub them
with fat or oil.  Place them on a baking sheet or on the oven rack in
an oven preheated to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  Bake for 15 minutes,
then reduce heat to 350 degrees Fahrenheit and bake until soft, about
1+ hours.  For baking, use only cured potatoes.
   To boil yams, put them in a pot with enough lightly salted water
to cover them.  Cover pot and boil potatoes until they're tender.
Drain immediately so they won't get soggy.  
Serve baked or boiled yams plain or mashed with milk, juices and                
spices.  One medium-sized baked sweet potato contains about 155
calories.  A tablespoon of margarine adds 100 calories.
   Baked or boiled yams can be frozen for later use.  If you plan to
freeze sweet potatoes, bake potatoes only until they're about 3/4 done,
then cool them, wrap them individually in foil, and store them
together in a freezer bag or freezer paper.  Leave the potatoes in foil
to thaw and finish baking.
   To prepare boiled or mashed yams for freezing, cook with skins on
until almost tender.  Cool, peel, cut or mash.  Dip potatoes in orange
or lemon juice to keep them from darkening.  A solution of ascorbic
acid will also keep them from darkening.  Pack tightly in containers,
leaving half an inch of headspace.  Cover surface snugly with a layer
of freezer paper or film, seal and freeze.
   You can get more information about food preparation, nutrition and
diets from the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Making Homemade Ice Cream. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/8/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 3169
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3169,
"Making Homemade Ice Cream."
   Homemade ice cream is a favorite treat for young and old.  Ice
cream made at home offers characteristics somewhat different from
those of commercial ice cream.  It usually has a higher fat content, a
heavier body and a coarser texture.  There's also less air forced into
the homemade mixture than in the commercial ice creams.
   Because homemade ice cream is frozen slowly, the ice crystals are
larger and the end product is coarser than rapidly frozen commercial
ice cream.  Besides being delicious, ice cream is a nourishing dairy
food that provides calcium, protein, vitamin A, riboflavin and thiamin.
   Here are some tips which will make your homemade ice cream even
better:
   --Try to prepare the ice cream mixture the day before you plan to
freeze it.  This gives the mixture added smoothness and volume.
   --If you haven't made the custard early enough to refrigerate it
for a day, at least cool it before you freeze it in the ice cream
freezer.  Cool the container and the dasher thoroughly before freezing
the ice cream.  Don't try to freeze a warm custard...the ice cream will
have a buttery flavor and texture.
   --Use cream that can be whipped.  Whipping helps make the ice
cream smoother by incorporating air into the cream and distributing
the fat evenly.
   --Fill the freezer only two-thirds full to leave room for the ice
cream to expand as it freezes.
   --After placing the ice cream container in the bucket, fill the
bucket one-third full of ice before you start to add salt.  Alternate
salt and ice until the bucket is full.
 
--Use one part salt to eight parts ice.   art to add salt.  Alternatell         
   --If the ice cream is granular, you may have added too much salt
to the ice or you may have put too much ice cream in the container.
If you used a hand-cranked freezer, you may have turned it too
rapidly.
   --For variety, add ripe, mashed fruit to your ice cream mixture.
   For more information and suggestions about food and nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Poaching Eggs 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3170
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3170, "Poaching Eggs".
        If you're are watching your weight, a poached egg served over
steamed vegetables  is a delicious combination.  One large egg has
only 80 calories.  Two eggs are equivalent to one serving of meat.
        To poach an egg all you need is a deep skillet or saucepan.
The pan should be 2 to 3 inches deep so that it will hold enough
water to cover the egg.
        If you would like to use a poaching ring to help keep the egg
in an attractive shape, make one by using tuna cans or other small
cans with both ends removed.  The rings work best in more shallow
pans such as skillets.  Set the rings in the simmering water and slip
the eggs into the rings.
        Poaching is one of the easiest ways to cook an egg.  Eggs
should be as fresh as possible and cold.  This helps to prevent the egg
white from spreading ... producing a more compact poached egg.
        To properly poach eggs, heat 2 to 3 inches of liquid to
boiling.  You may use water, broth, tomato juice, soup or milk.  When
the liquid begins to boil, reduce the heat to keep it gently simmering.
Break cold eggs, one at a time, into a saucer or a custard cup.  Hold
the dish close to the liquid's surface as each egg is slipped into the
pan.  Cook the eggs in the simmering liquid for about 3 to 5 minutes.
After about 3 minutes of cooking, the eggs' whites will be firm, but
the yolks will still flow.  Yolks will harden after 5 minutes of
cooking.  Once the eggs are poached as desired, lift them out with a
slotted spoon and drain them in the spoon or on paper towels. 
Eggs provide high-quality protein and are very low in cost.                     
Since a dozen eggs weigh one and a half pounds, their cost per pound
is only two-thirds of the price per dozen.  With the exception of
Vitamin C, eggs are a good source of many vitamins and minerals.
They make a low-calorie, low-cost, nutritious contribution to any meal.
        For more information about food and nutrition, contact the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                 ###
-End-
-Title-
Toasting Pecans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3174
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3174, "Toasting Pecans."
   You can toast pecans with or without spices.  If you like them
plain, stir three cups of shelled pecans and a half-stick of melted
margarine into a shallow baking pan.  Roast the pecans in a slow
oven...275 to 300 degrees for about 45 minutes to an hour, or until
toasted as desired.  Stir them every 15 minutes.  When the pecans are
done, drain them on absorbent paper and salt while they are warm.
Be careful not to overtoast pecans.  Smaller pecans cook faster, so
taste them as you toast.  The amount of moisture in pecans affects
cooking time, too.
   If you like spicy hot pecans, toast the pecans in a mixture of one
stick of melted margarine and one-half cup of Worcestershire (woos-
ter-sheer) sauce.  This is enough to coat one and one-half pounds of
shelled pecans.  Place the pecans on a baking pan in a 250-degree
oven and stir them until the nuts absorb all the liquid.  Remove them
from the oven and sprinkle with salt and cayenne pepper.  Stir the
nuts well to distribute seasonings.  Cool and store the pecans in a
covered, airtight container.
   You can also toast pecans in an electric skillet or in a skillet on
top of the range.  Be sure to use low heat and stir the pecans often.
Toasted pecans are great party treats and snacks.  They're a good
source of protein and B vitamins, too.
   For more information and suggestions about food preparation or for
a free pamphlet called "Louisiana Pecans," call the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Using Left-Over Turkey. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           Tele-Tip 3177
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
3177, "Using Left-Over Turkey."
   To get the best of your left-overs, take care of them from the
beginning.  Refrigerate leftovers immediately after a meal.  Remove
any stuffing from the turkey cavities and put it in a separate
container to refrigerate it.  Take the turkey meat off the carcass and
put it in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
   Unfortunately, the practice of leaving the holiday feast in a warm
oven or on the table at room temperature for the evening meal is
not...I repeat not... safe.  Certain foods at these temperatures can
harbor bacteria that cause food poisoning.  The left-overs that you
put in your refrigerator will need to be used in two or three days.
   You may want to freeze some of your turkey left-overs if you want
to use them quite a bit later.  Wrap the meat in freezer paper or
heavy-duty aluminum foil, or you can use a freezer carton or bag.  Be
sure to press all the air out and wrap it securely to keep the meat
from drying out.  For the best quality...you shouldn't store turkey
more than a month.  Although the meat will be safe to eat for longer
than a month...the quality begins to deteriorate after that length of
time.
   Now, you know how to store the turkey safely...let's move on to
using left-over turkey.
   Casseroles are always a favorite...and there are many recipes from
which you can choose.  You can stir-fry turkey and vegetable pieces
together to camouflage what was once part of a holiday meal.  Not
only is this delicious, it's low-fat and low-calorie.  Left-over turkey
can also be combined with frozen green peas, fresh mushrooms, and
water chestnuts.  Chunks of left-over ham or beef with other
vegetables could also be prepared in the same way.
 
Of course, there are always the infamous turkey sandwiches...but   rkey         
try them with a new twist.  Try pita bread...sometimes called pocket
bread...lined with lettuce then filled with turkey salad made with
turkey chunks, celery for crunch, tomatoes and hard-cooked eggs.
   One last thought...don't throw away your turkey carcass.  Boil it
and make turkey and corn chowder, turkey-noodle soup or even turkey
gumbo.
   For more nutrition and cooking information and suggestions, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cooking Chicken in the Microwave. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/11/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3201
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3201,
"Cooking Chicken in the Microwave."
   Chicken is one of those foods that makes you happy that you have
a microwave oven.  Not only does chicken cook to perfection in a
microwave oven, it does it in a fraction of the time required by
conventional cooking methods.
   Also, a microwave oven is ideal for defrosting frozen chicken.  To
defrost chicken, simply take the chicken from the freezer, unwrap it
and place it in a casserole or baking dish that is safe for microwave
cooking.
   If your oven doesn't have a defrost power level, you might try
alternating a heating period of three-to-five minutes with a standing
period of three-to-five minutes for each pound of frozen chicken.
Rotate the dish at the end of each heating period.
   When you're cooking chicken in the microwave oven, you should
allow about six to seven minutes of cooking time for each pound of
meat.  However, not all microwave ovens cook at exactly the same
rate, so you should follow the manufacturers recommendation if they're
different from what I recommended a few seconds ago.
   Here are a few suggestions which should help make your microwave
cooked chicken dinners more appetizing.  To brown chicken, coat it
with butter, soy sauce, paprika, or a commercial browning sauce.
   Chicken usually cooks best when the oven cooking level is set on
"high."  For less than three pounds of chicken, you may want to use a
cooking level of "medium high"-to-"high."
   When you're cooking chicken parts, put the larger, meatier parts
near the outside and tuck the giblets under the breast.
 
To keep moisture in the meat and to avoid spatter, cover the   arts aey         
chicken with wax paper, a glass cover, or plastic wrap with one
corner folded back for a vent.
   Remember, standing time is important...because chicken continues to
cook after the oven is turned off.
   For more information or suggestions on cooking with a microwave
oven, call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Converting Recipes for Microwave. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/11/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3204
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3204,
"Converting Recipes for Microwave."
   After you have some experience with a microwave oven, you'll
probably want to begin converting some of your favorite recipes for
use with the microwave.  You'll be able to convert some recipes very
easily...others may require more experimentation.
   Because microwave ovens cook more quickly and with less
evaporation, you will need to reduce the moisture in the conventional
recipe by one-fourth.  For example, if your recipe calls for one cup of
water, reduce it to three-fourths of a cup.  For this same reason you
should use herbs and spices sparingly.  These flavors don't evaporate
when they're used in a microwave oven.
   To help you determine cooking times, remember that one cup of tap
water boils in two-and-half to three minutes.  The average food takes
one-fourth the time required in a conventional oven.  If your favorite
casserole takes one hour in a conventional oven...it should cook in
only fifteen minutes in a microwave oven.  The microwave cooking
time may take longer than one-fourth the conventional cooking time
for items normally cooked on top of the stove.
In fact, you find that you save very little time, if any at all, by
cooking this type food in a microwave oven.
   Factors which affect the cooking time include such things as the
temperature of the food when you begin cooking it, the shape of the
food, the volume of the food, the density of it or the weight of
it...and the wattage of your oven.
 
Look through your microwave cookbooks to find a recipe similar to   tef         
yours.  This can sometimes be a big help you determine which setting
to cook your dish.
   As you experiment with converting your recipes, you may find that
you will have try them more than once before you get your best
results.  Make a note of changes so you will remember them the next
time.
   For more information about microwave cooking or for a free
pamphlet call "Microwave Ovens," call the home economist in your
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Microwave Utensils. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/11/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3205
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3205,
"Microwave Utensils."
   No metal cooking pots or pans can be used in microwave ovens.
That's the general rule...the exception to the rule is that some
manufacturers permit metal TV dinner trays in their ovens, but be
sure you follow the manufacturer's size specifications and so forth.
Even though metal trays are permitted in some ovens, it may still be
better to pop the food out onto a glass dish.  You'll get better
results faster.
   Generally...glass, ceramic, pyroceramic, and pottery containers can
be used in the oven.  Use utensils which have no metal trim
anywhere...this includes trims of gold and silver.  Some paints or
glazes contain metallic oxides made of substances that shouldn't be put
in the oven.
   To test a dish to determine whether it's safe for the microwave
oven, put one cup of tap water in the oven with the dish and set the
timer for one minute.  If the dish is still cool when you take it out it
can be used.  A hot dish is a warning that the dish is not suitable for
use in a microwave oven.  If the container has a screw in the glass
lid it cannot be used.  Corning Ware  can be used except for Centura
dinnerware and cookware covers and the Corelle Living Ware closed
handle cups.  The cups with open handles may be used in the
microwave oven.
 
Dishwasher-safe plastics may be used for heating foods that don't   fort        
contain fats and sugar.  Tupperware is best used for storing food...not
cooking it.  Melamine Ware, Melmac, has a tendency to absorb energy
so it should be tested to determine if it can be used.  Plastic foam
cups and dishes can be used for heating.  Some of the heavy duty
plastic wraps on the market may be used in the micrdowave oven for
short periods of time.  Other lightweight plastic wraps have a
tendency to become distorted in the microwave oven.  Wax paper or
paper towels are good covers to use in the microwave oven.  Plastic
baby bottles can be used for heating milk or formula.  Spatulas and
spoons for non-stick pans can be left in the oven for a short time.
Plastic utensils should be use only for heating foods to serving
temperature.  Longer cooking causes the food to reach a high
temperature and distorts the plastic.
   Paper such as napkins, towels, plates, cups, frozen food cartons,
freezer wrap and heavy cardboard is suitable for microwave oven use.
They may help to absorb moisture and prevent splatter if they're
placed over the food.  Rolls and breads can be heated in a napkin or
cloth to prevent the from becoming soggy.  Avoid cooking foods on
paper for long periods.
   Straw or wooden baskets with no metallic paint or staples can be
used for reheating breads.  Wooden spoons can be left in a dish in the
microwave for a short time.  Don't use a wooden spoon or a dish with
a varnish or lacquer finish or one that has been seasoned with
cooking oil.  The heat could ruin the finish.
 
Small amounts of aluminum foil can be used to shield those part of   ett        
foods that are unevenly shaped, or are overcooking, or you just don't
want to cook.  What you must remember is that you must have a total
of two cups of food in the oven.  Be sure the aluminum foil used for
shielding does not touch the sides of the oven and that it is smooth.
A spoon accidentally left in the dish, a foil lined paper sack, a metal
ring on a dish, or a metal tie or a loaf of bread will act as an
antenna and cause arcing in the oven.  Avoid using metal in the oven.
   For more information about cooking with a microwave oven, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Microwave--Food Preservation. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/11/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3206
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3206,
"Microwave--Food Preservation."
   A microwave oven cannot be used to safely process fresh
vegetables for home canning...and there are several reasons for this.
   First, metal lids can't be used in the microwave oven.  Second,
low-acid foods must be processed in a pressure canner so they can be
heated to a temperature of 240 degrees Fahrenheit.  This high
temperature is needed to kill organisms that might cause serious
illness or even death.  The microwave oven will heat these low-acid
foods to boiling which is only 212 degrees Fahrenheit.
   If you're preserving fresh vegetable by freezing, you can blanch
small quantities in the microwave oven.  When you need to blance
large quantities of vegetables before you freeze them, it's still more
efficient to use a large pot on a conventional stove.
   You can use your microwave oven to make jelly, jam, relish and
pickles.
Also, drying food in a microwave oven can be successful in some dry
areas of the country...buy it's not likely to be successful in Louisiana
because of the state's high humidity.  This is especially true for the
high-moisture fruits and vegetables, although a citrus peel and a few
herbs will dry quite well in a microwave oven here in Louisiana.
   The problem with drying food in a microwave oven is that there is
no way for the moisture to escape from the oven, so the food re-
absorbs the moisture as quickly as it is taken from the food.
   For more information about cooking with microwave ovens or for a
free pamphlet called "Freezing Vegetables" which includes a listing of
recommended times for blanching popular garden vegetables in a
microwave oven, call the home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                               ce.omist in your parish office of theofna        
-End-
-Title-
Adolescent Weight Control. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3250
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3250, "Adolescent Weight Control."
   The best way for teens to lose weight is for them to increase their
activity.  Activity uses up calories.  Teens are still growing, so it is
dangerous for them to restrict their calorie intake severely.  Too few
calories may mean they won't grow in height or that developing body
organs may be damaged.
   Teenage boys need 2,700 to 2,800 calories each day, and teenage
girls need 2,100 to 2,200 calories.  Choosing foods wisely will supply
both the energy needed for rapid growth and hormonal changes and
the nutrients needed in greater amounts, particularly vitamins and
minerals.
   Teenagers who want to lose weight should cut down on foods which
provide calories but few nutrients.  These foods include fats, sweets
and alcohol.  Soft drinks and candy bars are good examples.
   A realistic weight loss of one to two pounds a week is best.
Weight lost slowly is more likely to stay off.  Keeping a food diary
chart for a few days can help young people realize that eating habits
are tied to activities like watching television and to moods such as
boredom.  A food diary should include information on foods eaten, as
well as when, where and how much food was eaten.
   Two serious disorders affect mainly teenagers.  They are anorexia
nervosa and bulimia.  Anorexia nervosa is really self-starvation.  It
can result in severe and even life-threatening malnutrition.
 
Bulimia is excessive eating followed by forced vomiting.  It can   Ityis        
lead to tooth decay, throat and esophageal irritation, dehydration and
stomach rupture.  Therapy for these two disorders includes medical
attention, psychological counseling and extensive nutrition education
aimed at making sufferers aware of the effects of their behavior on
their health.
   When teenagers eat and exercise properly, they are happier with
their self image and feel more in control of their life.
   For more information and suggestions about proper nutrition and
weight control, call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Calories Do Count. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3251
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3251, "Calories Do Count."
   No matter what claims are made by weight loss plans, the only
proven way for you to lose weight is to eat fewer calories than your
body needs.  The best way to do this is to reduce the amount of food
you eat and increase your physical activity.
   You may associate calorie cutting with weight control, but may not
understand exactly what it is you're counting.  A calorie is a measure
of energy or the ability to do work.  The food you eat is your energy
intake and physical activity is your energy output.  The calorie is
defined as the amount of energy needed to raise the temperature of
one gram of water by one degree Celsius.
   Carbohydrates, fats and protein -- three of the nutrients that food
provides -- also have the capacity of producing energy.  The amount
of energy that food contains is measured in one thousand-calorie
units, which are called "kilocalories."  Although the calories you add
up for a day's meals and snacks are actually kilocalories, we still use
the term "calorie" to designate this food energy.
   The number of calories you need depends on the amount of energy
your body uses.  Because people are different, their caloric needs are
different, too.  These calorie differences are due to differences in
basal metabolic rate for basic body functions such as breathing and
heart beating. They're also due to differences in levels of physical
activity, health status, body size, body composition, and growth stages.
When you normally take in more calories than your body needs for all
of these activities and functions, the extra calories are converted to
fat and you gain weight.
   The best way for you to lose this body fat is to decrease excess
food consumption and increase physical activity. However, you should
never drastically reduce your food intake.  Diets which contain too
few calories can lead to nutritional deficiencies and poor health.
   A well-balanced diet, including foods from the basic food groups,
along with a regular program of physical activity, provides the best
means of weight control.
   For more information about diet and weight control or for free
copies of the pamphlets "Food and Your Weight" and "Calories and
Your Weight," call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Changing Food Habits. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3252
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3252, "Changing Food Habits."
   Losing weight and keeping it off usually requires changes in our
eating habits.  Since human beings are creatures of habit, we often do
things we are not aware of that cause us to either gain weight or
keep us from losing weight.
   A good way to decide if you have some habits that are keeping you
from achieving your weight loss goals is to keep a food diary for
several days or for a week.  A food diary will help you become aware
of how much you are eating, why you are eating, and your eating
patterns.
   In your food diary you'll want to write down the following things
each day -- the types and amounts of foods you eat -- the times you
eat -- the number of minutes you spend eating -- the places you eat -
_ how hungry you are when eating -- how you felt when you were
eating -- and other activities related to eating.
   When you enter the types and amounts of foods you eat in your
diary, remember to write down all foods -- meals, snacks and nibbles
_- immediately after you have eaten them.  Do not write them down
before eating.  Wait until you're finished, so you'll be sure to record
exactly what you had.  You may be surprised at the amounts and kinds
of foods you eat regularly.
   By entering the number of times you eat, you may find that you
nibble quite a lot.
   The number of minutes you spend eating could reveal that you're
eating too fast.  Overweight people often eat too fast.  Learning to
eat more slowly helps you to recognize when you're full -- and it
helps you to enjoy your food more.
   You may eat out often -- or when at home -- you may eat in areas
of the house other than the dining room or the kitchen.  Just by
allowing yourself to eat in specified places of your home, may help
you to reduce your food intake.
   To find out how hungry you are when you're eating, rate your
hunger on a scale of one to four, with one being the least hungry and
four being starved. If you're not sure whether you're hungry, ask
yourself these questions -- has it been three or four hours since I last
ate -- have I been more active than usual today -- and would I be
satisfied with a meal of fish or lean meat and vegetables.  If you
answer yes to all these questions, you're probably hungry.
   Our moods may lead us to want to eat.  How you feel when eating
could effect your eating habits.  Boredom, nervousness, and loneliness
can all cause eating binges.
   Sometimes other activities, such as watching TV or a movie,
working or reading, may be activities you associate with eating
without being conscious of it.
   By examining your food diary, you'll learn a great deal about your
eating habits.  Perhaps you'll find you eat large amounts when bored,
depressed, or frustrated.  You may find a lot of your eating is just
routine -- as in joining your children for cookies and juice when they
come home from school.
   Learning yourself better through your food diary will help you
make changes that can lead to your weight loss goals.
   For more information about diet and weight control or for free
copies of the pamphlets "Food and Your Weight" and "Calories and
Your Weight," call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Cooking Methods to Cut Calories. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3253
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3253,
"Cooking Methods to Cut Calories."
   When it comes to cutting calories in your cooking one of the first
things you need to be able to do is recognize high calorie foods.
Generally, high calorie foods have these characteristics...thick, oily or
greasy-crisp...slick, smooth or gooey...sweet or sticky...compact or
concentrated alcohol.
   Generally, low calorie foods have these characteristics...thin, watery
or dilute...bulky or with lots of fiber or coarseness...water-crisp.
   Now...down to cooking to cut calories.  First, avoid adding fat to
cooked vegetables.  Instead, combine different vegetables to get
variety.  For example...green beans and mushrooms; peas and onions.
Also, cook without added butter, margarine, fat back or bacon.  Let
each person season his or her own food.
   You can also cut down on calories in your cooking by removing all
visible fat from meat.  Most fish are low in fat...and fat in poultry is
usually just under the skin...so, removing the skin will reduce the
calories.  Use meat drippings after the fat has been skimmed off...and
stay away from "country-style" preparation.  Cooking in gravies or
sauces add many calories.
   Remember, alcoholic beverages are high in calories.  And there are
loads of calories in the snacks often eaten with alcoholic beverages.
The famous three martini lunch contains 420 calories and you haven't
eaten anything.  Dry wines are lower in calories than sweet wines.
   And finally, use items containing sugar substitutes in moderation.
Train your tastes toward fewer sweets.
   For more nutriton and cooking information and suggestions, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Dangers of Fad Diets. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3255
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3255, "Dangers of Fad Diets."
   The latest weight reducing diets and aids, like hula hoops and
other fads, are here one day and gone the next.  These diet fads
appeal to many people because they promise an easy, quick way to
lose weight.  Some popular diets allow very little food or even
promote fasting for certain periods.  Other diets promise miraculous
results through the eating of particular foods or the combination of
certain foods.
        The problem with most of these diets is that they're not
balanced and don't provide the necessary nutrients.  If you follow any
of them for a long period of time, they may be harmful.  In addition,
most of these diets don't change your dietary habits that produce
lasting weight loss.
        Some weight control fads include low carbohydrate diets.
These diets prescribe foods rich in protein and fat with very little
carbohydrate.  Because  little or no carbohydrate is allowed, these
diets quickly lose their appeal.  The weight loss, especially the large
amount at the beginning of these diets, is primarily water.
   Low carbohydrate diets also lack essential vitamins and minerals
and could cause elevated blood cholesterol levels and ketosis.  Ketosis
occurs when carbohydrates are not available to the body for energy.
Substances called ketones build up in the blood causing it to become
acidic.  Symptoms of ketones include fatigue, weakness, nausea,
dehydration, and bad breath.                     Liquid protein or
supplemented fasting is suppose to burn fat while sparing body muscle.
Since most of these diets provide only three hundred to five hundred
calories per day, they are nutritionally incomplete.  Muscle breakdown
may occur due to the very low calorie content of the diet.  Side
effects you may experience from these liquid diets include nausea,
vomiting, diarrhea, constipation, muscle cramps, fatigue, and heart
irregularities.  Some deaths have been attributed to these diets.
   Fasting is an extreme way to try to lose weight.  One of the main
problems with fasting is that not only is fat burned, but so is lean
body tissue -- which is muscle.  You should remember that your heart
is a muscle. Since no carbohydrate is eaten with this diet, ketosis
occurs with its symptoms.
   Fasting can cause many deficiencies since it lacks in all essential
nutrients.  Because your body has mechanisms to adapt to fasting or
starvation, it begins to conserve energy, resulting in the slowing of
weight loss.
   Another weight control fad is diet pills.  These include appetite
suppressants which curb your appetite.  The pills usually only work a
few weeks at the most and may produce unpleasant side effects.
There is also a danger of potential abuse of these drugs.
   Some may seek to lose weight through bypass surgery.  The
intestinal bypass has been succeeded in popularity by stomach
reduction because of the many severe health complications associated
with intestinal surgery.  This surgery reduces the size of the stomach
so only small amounts of food can be eaten at one time.  Surgical
procedures are considered to be drastic measures and are not
recommended unless a physician feels obesity is life threatening and
other weight loss plans have failed.             To lose weight
safely and keep it off, your best choice is a combination of nutritious,
well-balanced meals and snacks using the basic food groups, and a
program of regular exercise.  When you're considering a plan to lose
weight, make sure the reducing plan you're trying is nutritionally
sound -- does not promise miraculous results with no effort -- and is
one that fits your lifestyle and pocketbook.
   For more information about diet and weight control or for free
copies of the pamphlets "Food and Your Weight" and "Calories and
Your Weight," call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Dieting During the Holiday Season. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3256
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3256,
"Dieting During the Holiday Season."
   The holiday season with its rich food and drink may be a disaster
for you if you're trying to either lose weight or just not gain any.
The thing to remember at holiday time is that it's a lot easier to keep
pounds off than it is to take them off.
   One way to handle this problem is to be ready for the foods before
you see them.  Learn which party foods are high in calories and which
are low so you can choose the ones which will help you with your
weight program.
   A calorie counter book can help you with this.  If you're not
familiar with a certain food, you can usually judge its calorie level by
certain characteristics it has.  For example, a food is usually low in
calories if it is thin and water, crisp with water or bulky like greens.
On the other hand, a food is likely to be high in calories if it is
greasy or oily, smooth and thick, or sweet and gooey.
   Alcoholic beverages are often the downfall for people watching
their weight.  A highball usually contains about 150 calories...and a
sweet after-dinner drink may contain even more.  A half-cup of
eggnog...about four ounces...contains about 170 calories.  Add a half-
jigger of alcohol to the eggnog and the calorie content jumps to 215
calories.  Remember, the higher the alcohol content of a drink, the
higher the calorie content.  A glass of dry white wine should have a
lower calorie content of 90 calories.
   Eating fewer calories in regular meals during the holiday season
can help leave room for those extra calories you're likely to pick up
during parties and family gatherings.  But, remember that the calories
in all those sweet snacks you eat during the holidays count, too. 
For more information and suggestions about dieting and nutrition,               
call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Exercise and Weight Control. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3257
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3257, "Exercise and Weight Control."
   A good weight loss program should include moderate exercise on a
consistent basis.  Many nutrition experts agree that it is wiser to
increase your activity rather than cutting your calories drastically.
Too low calorie diets can result in nutritional deficiencies and poor
health.
        The type of exercise you choose should be something you like
to do.  Your exercise program should be based on your age, health and
physical condition.  Be sure to check with your physician about the
exercise program before you begin.
   The most beneficial exercise for weight loss and control involves
the use of large muscle groups.  The exercise should be rhythmic and
aerobic -- such as walking, running or swimming.  For good results,
you should exercise at least three days a week for twenty to thirty
minutes.  Brisk walking for two to three miles at least three times a
week is an excellent choice of exercise.
        When you exercise, you use energy.  A man weighing one
hundred and fifty pounds uses eighty calories walking one mile.  A
woman weighing one hundred and twenty-one pounds uses sixty-three
calories.  If the man runs one mile, he uses one hundred and twenty
calories and the woman uses ninety-four calories.
   Besides burning calories during the exercise session itself, studies
have shown that the body's metabolism speeds up.  This means that
excess calories are burned at a faster rate for hours after the
exercise, resulting in greater weight loss.  Regular exercise also
strengthens your heart, improves muscular endurance, muscular power,
flexibility, coordination and makes you feel better.
   For a winning weight control combination, remember to eat
nutritious, well-balanced meals from a variety of foods and to exercise
regularly.
   For a free pamphlet called "Food and Your Weight" or for more
information on weight control, contact the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Foods Lower in Calories. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3259
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3259, "Foods Lower in Calories."
   Some foods or groups of foods, such as the potato, "starchy foods"
and "white foods", have gotten the reputation of being fattening.  The
truth is that since all foods contain calories or food energy, eating
too much of any has the potential for leading to excess pounds of fat
gained.
   Of course, some foods do contain more calories than others.  For
example, fat provides twice as many calories per gram than either
protein or carbohydrate.  Foods that contain large amounts of sugars
plus fat are usually considered to be higher in calories also.
   Most vegetables and fruits are fairly low in calories because many
are high in fiber and water.  Since fiber is not digested it has no
calories.  It takes greater amounts of vegetables and fruits to equal
the amount of calories  in foods containing large amounts of fat or
concentrated sweeteners.  Fresh fruits or fruits packed in natural
juices or water are also lower in calories than fruits packed in syrups.
   The way foods are prepared determines how many calories they
contain. For example, a plain boiled or baked potato has about 100
calories while that same potato served as hashed browns would have
235 calories.
   Dietetic foods are not always low calorie either.  These foods
usually contain sweeteners other than sucrose--table sugar.  These
sweeteners, such as sorbitol, yield as many calories when eaten as
table sugar.  For instance, dietetic ice cream provides about as many
calories as regular ice cream.
   There are  also some reduced calorie salad dressings, margarines
and cheeses that contain fewer calories than regular products because
of smaller amounts of fat.  You can find out the amount of calories
per serving these foods contain by reading the labels.Nutritionally
sound diets for weight control include a variety of foods from the
basic food groups-- milk and cheese--meat, poultry, fish and beans--
vegetables and fruits--and bread and cereal.  These basic foods are
usually limited on a weight control diet, but all are included because
they provide not only calories, but necessary nutrients for good health
as well.
   The meat group provides such nutrients as protein, iron, B vitamins
and zinc.  The bread-cereal group gives us carbohydrate, B vitamins
and iron and the whole grain varieties provide fiber.  The vegetable-
fruit group is rich in Vitamins A and C, as well as fiber.  The milk-
cheese group supplies protein, calcium, riboflavin and Vitamins A and
D.
   There's also a food group called the fats, sweets and alcohol group.
This group includes items that contain fat, concentrated amounts of
sugar or alcohol.  We get food energy or calories from this group but
few other nutrients.  For this reason, the group is usually drastically
limited on weight control diets.
   For copies of free pamphlets called "Food And Your Weight" and
"Calories And Weight" or for more information on diets and weight
control, contact the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Menu Planning for the Dieter. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3261
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3261, "Menu Planning for the Dieter."
   Your low-calorie meals don't have to be boring.  Many people who
thought that low-calorie meals consisted only of such foods as plain
cottage cheese, celery sticks and steamed spinach are finding
excitement in preparing low-calorie gourmet food.  You'll find that
foods don't have to be dripping with rich sauces or coated with
batters to be delicious.
        Some low-calorie main dishes you may want to try include the
following --Roll up cooked, tender, crisp broccoli spears in thin slices
of cooked chicken or turkey.  Top them with thin slices of mozzarella
cheese, a sprinkle of parsley and pimento strips.  Then, heat them
until the cheese melts.
   Try cooking trimmed lean beef or pork strips which have been
marinated in lemon and serve them over a vegetable mix of cauliflower
florets, peas, carrots and asparagus pieces.
   You can use an outdoor grill to cook lean beef, veal or lamb shish
kabobs.  Trim the fat from the meat and cut it into cubes.  Then
marinate the cubes in a mixture of lemon juice, ginger and coriander.
Alternate the meat cubes with cherry tomatoes, green pepper chunks,
fresh mushrooms and pearl onions. Then, baste the shish kabobs with
marinade while you're grilling them.
   For a tasty low-calorie fish dish, roll flounder or cod filets around
tender, crisp green beans cooked in two tablespoons of chopped onion.
Top them with tomato sauce seasoned with oregano, basil and garlic
powder, a sprinkle of grated Parmesan cheese and bake until the fish
is tender and flaky.
   The bread and cereal group needs to be included in any weight
control program.  Some ideas for lower calorie grains include the
following.
        Instead of serving rice with gravy, cook the rice in a flavored
beef or chicken broth for an interesting taste without lots of calories.
   Instead of topping your baked potato with sour cream, top it with
a tablespoon of plain yogurt, a sprinkle of grated, low fat cheese and
some chives to reduce calories.
   Instead of boiling your vegetables, steam them until they're tender
and crisp.  Then, experiment with lemons, herbs and spices to brighten
them instead   of using salt and high calorie sauces made with butter
and margarine.
   For dessert, you can use a variety of fresh fruits in season.  If
you use canned or frozen fruits, choose fruits that are canned in
natural juices or water and unsweetened frozen fruits.
   A scoop of frozen lemon yogurt served on a slice of honeydew
melon, topped with fresh raspberries makes an elegant dessert that's
not loaded with calories.
   Don't let yourself get in a rut on your weight control diet.  Try
developing your own new tasty menu ideas.
   For a free pamphlet called "Food and Your Weight" or for more
information about diet and nutrition, contact the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Tricks to Make You Slim. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                                  TeleTip 3265

   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3265

"Tricks to Make You Slim."

   If you're trying to lose weight or keep the weight you've
already lost

off, try these tricks.

   Drink a glass of water before you eat to help make your stomach
feel

fuller.

   Control those mealtime hunger pangs about a half hour before a
meal with

a small amount of carbohydrate -- such as a glass of vegetable
juice, some fruit

or a couple crackers.

   Eat your food slowly and put your fork down after each bite.

   Try eating with the wrong hand or with chopsticks if you can't
slow your

eating pace.

   Serve your plate from the kitchen rather than leaving serving
bowls of

food on the table which might tempt you to eat more.

   Learn to stop eating before you feel full.  The hunger you may
still

feel after eating will disappear within about twenty minutes after
you stop

eating.

   Eat meals regularly and on schedule.  You're much more likely to
overeat

later or grab high calorie snacks if you've missed a meal.

   Keep low calorie snacks handy for hunger attacks.

   As much as possible, be flexible with your diet.  Learn how to
budget

calories to take advantage of holiday and special meals.

   Stay busy with things you like to do.  This helps keep your mind
off of

food.

   You can burn extra calories by walking instead of driving to work
or by

parking at the far end of the lot if you drive.  Take stairs instead
of the

elevator and walk during coffee or lunch breaks.      A final good
way to control your weight is to organize an exercise club

with your friends at work or close to home.

   For a free pamphlet called "Food and Your Weight" or for more

information, contact the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana

Cooperative Extension Service.


                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Your Daily Calorie Requirement. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3267
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3267, "Your Daily Calorie Requirement."
   A commonly asked question by those interested in weight control
is, "How many calories do I need every day?"
   The number of calories or the amount of food energy you need
depends on many different factors such as your age, health, body type
and size and your activity.  Some very active persons are able to eat
larger amounts of food and not gain weight while those who are less
active do gain weight.  People who have rounded, soft body types--
called endomorphs--seem to gain weight more easily than those who
have slender, wiry body types--called ectomorphs.
   The Food and Nutrition Board of the National Research Council has
suggested an intake of 2,700 calories a day for men between the ages
of 23 and 50 and 2,000 calories a day for women between these ages.
These caloric allowances are suggested averages for adults performing
light work.  Your individual calorie need may vary.
   One way to find out how many calories you need to maintain your
present weight is to multiply the amount of energy you use times your
weight.  If you are inactive, use 14 to 16 calories to multiply--if
you're moderately active, use 16 to 18 calories--and if you're very
active, multiply your weight by 18 to 20 calories.  For example, an
inactive woman weighing 120 pounds would multiply 120 by 14 , which
would equal 1,680--the amount of calories she would need each day to
maintain her present weight.
   If you want to lose weight, you have to burn more calories than
you take in.  One pound of body fat represents 3,500 calories.  In
order to gain one pound, you must eat 3,500 calories more than your
body needs.
   Therefore, in order to lose a pound of body fat, you must eat 3,500
calories less than your body needs.  If you reduce your caloric intake
500 calories a day for a week, the projected loss in body fat would be
one pound.

Remember that you are looking at pounds of actual body fat loss, not
just changes in body weight.
        Weight loss may vary for several reasons.  On some types of
weight control diets, more fluid is loss at first, resulting in sharper
weight drops initially.  As weight loss continues, the body requires
fewer calories for its functions so the rate of weight loss may be
slow.  Daily changes in body fluid also affect your weight.  Just
because you weigh one pound more in the evening than you weighed
that morning doesn't mean that you've gained one pound of body fat.
   The best combination for losing weight and maintaining it is eating
a variety of well-balanced, nutritious foods from the basic food groups
and following a program of regular exercise.
        For copies of free pamphlets called "Food and Your Weight"
and "Calories And Weight" or for more information on diets and
weight control, contact the the home economist in your parish office
of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Ballpoint Ink. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/12/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3501
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3501,
"Ballpoint Ink."
   If you keep getting ballpoint ink stains on your clothes or other
fabrics?  Then, you might want to get a product called Inknix.  You
pretreat ink stains with it before washing or sponging the fabric
with a dry cleaning solvent.
   Inknix. . .spelled I-N-K-N-I-X...is available in some stationery
office supply stores.  It's manufactured by Ozburn-Janesville
Corporation of Janesville, Wisconsin.
   If you don't have Inknix, here is another method. Sponge the ink
mark with rubbing alcohol.  Next, rub detergent into the stain.
Then rinse with warm water.
   If the stain remains, try applying lukewarm glycerine.  You can
buy glycerine at drug stores and department stores. It's spelled G-
L-Y-C-E-R-I-N-E.  To use glycerine, rinse a cloth in hot, sudsy
water.  Squeeze it almost dry, then pour a little glycerine on the
warm cloth and rub into the stain.  Let it set a minute or two, then
work the glycerine into the stain.  Now, rub the stain again.  Rub
briskly if the stain's on a sturdy fabric, but carefully if it's a
delicate fabric.  Let the glycerine set a minute or two longer.  Rub
again and rinse the stain.
   If the stain remains, repeat the process.  If the fabric is
bleachable, you can remove any remaining stain by washing it with
detergent and chlorine bleach.  But, be sure to follow the
directions of the bleach container.
   For valuable items, take them to the dry cleaners as soon as
possible after the stain is discovered.  Be sure you point out the
stain to the dry cleaners.  You shouldn't try to remove ink stains
from suede or leather garments at home.  Always take these to the
dry cleaners.
 
The LSU Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing Inknix.   subups.        
There may be other products that will work equally well in removing
ink stains.  You may find these by checking labels or asking for
such products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Candle Wax from Fabrics and Surfaces. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/7/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3502
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3502,
"Removing Candle Wax from Fabrics and Surfaces."
   Don't try to remove candle wax from furniture by scraping it with
your fingernail.  It's tempting...but the hot wax softens the furniture's
surface and makes marring easy.  Wait until the wax hardens, then
scrape it gently with a dull knife or thin piece of plastic, such as a
credit card.  If you're using a credit card, hold the card in both
hands.  Tilt the card slightly and scrape gently so you can remove the
wax without gouging the surface.
   After removing as much of the wax as possible, wipe the rest with
a cloth wrung out in warm, sudsy water or dab the spot with cleaning
fluid.  You might try a product called Energine...spelled E-N-E-R-G-I-
N-E...or Carbona...spelled C-A-R-B-O-N-A...or Renuzit...spelled R-E-N-
U-Z-I-T.  Dry the surface, then wipe it with your choice of furniture
polish, wax or oil.  Rub with the grain until no sign of the stain
remains.
   To remove candle wax from table linens, first scrape away as much
wax as possible with a plastic card or dull knife.  Next, place a piece
of blotting material...such as paper towel or napkin...under the stain.
Place another piece of blotting material over the wax stain.  Press it
with a warm iron.  The warm iron will melt the wax into the paper.
Change the paper as it becomes soiled.
   If a colored dye remains, sponge the dye stain with denatured
alcohol diluted with two parts of water.  If the article is washable,
wash it in warm, sudsy water.  If it's not washable, sponge it with a
dry cleaning solvent.
   Wax that has dripped onto the curves and crevices of a metal
candlestick is hard to remove.  To speed up the process...put the
candle holder in the freezer.  Once the wax freezes, it can be peeled
off easily.
   Change candles before they burn too low.  Extinguish flames by
snuffing rather than blowing.  This way you will be less likely to get
wax on linens and furniture.
   There may be other commercial products available that will work
equally well to remove candle wax stains.  Check labels or ask for
these products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   No endorsement is implied nor is discrimination intended by
mentioning commercial products in this program.
   For more information and suggestions about stain removal, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Chewing Gum From Fabric. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/12/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3503
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3503,
"Removing Chewing Gum From Fabric."
   If you've gotten yourself into a sticky situation by getting
chewing gum on your clothes, there are ways to get it off that are
safe for your garments.
   First...using a dull knife...lift the gum off the fabric.  Then,
rub ice on the stain.  This will help harden the rest of the gum so
you can lift it off more easily.
   If the fabric is washable, you should spray the stain with a pre-
wash spray.  Let it set for five or ten minutes.  Now, saturate the
stain again with the pre-wash spray, rubbing the gummed area to
dissolve the gum.  Work some laundry detergent into the stain, then
rinse it well with hot water.  You should hold the stained area
under the faucet so the gummy residue can be rinsed off.
   If the gum remains, repeat the process.  If not, launder the item
using a bleach that is safe for that fabric.
   To remove gum stains from non-washable items, you should sponge
the stained area with a cleaning fluid such as Energine...spelled E-
N-E-R-G-I-N-E... or Renuzit...spelled R-E-N-U-Z-I-T...or
Carbona...that's C-A-R-B-O-N-A.  You can usually get these products
in drug stores or houseware departments.
   Always test cleaning fluid in a place that doesn't show.  If the
fluid doesn't seem to hurt the fabric, you can use it.  Place the
stained side of the fabric face down on a clean paper towel.  Sponge
the back of the stain with cleaning fluid.  If the paper towel
doesn't absorb the gum, tap the back of the stained area with a
spoon.  The sturdier the fabric the harder you can tap.  Repeat the
process until the stain is gone.
   For valuable, dry-clean-only items, have the stain removed
professionally.  Be sure to point the stain out to the cleaners.
 
The LSU Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing any   rs.theeet.'s       
products mentioned.  There may be others that work equally well to
remove chewing gum stains as those named.  You may check labels are
ask for such products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Coffee and Tea Stains. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/13/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3504
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3504,
"Removing Coffee and Tea Stains."
   Stains left by coffee or tea spilled on washable garments are a
cleaning job you can do yourself.  But, if the stain is on a non-
washable fabric, you should take it to the dry cleaners.
   If your washable garment was stained by black coffee or tea
without sugar or milk, mix a solution of one quart warm water, a
half teaspoon liquid dishwashing detergent and a tablespoon of white
vinegar.  Soak the garment in this solution for 15 minutes.  Now,
rinse with water and sponge the stain with alcohol before
laundering.
   If the stain persists, soak the garment for 30 minutes in a
solution of one quart warm water, a tablespoon of an enzyme
product...such as Biz, spelled B-I-Z. Launder it again, and use a
bleach that is safe for the fabric to remove the last traces of the
stain.  Directions on the bleach container will tell give you the
amount of bleach to use.
   If the coffee or tea contained cream, start by sponging the stain
with a dry cleaning solvent such as Carbona... spelled C-A-R-B-O-N-
A... or Energine... spelled E-N-E-R-G-I-N-E... or Renuzit... spelled
R-E-N-U-Z-I-T.  Or, saturate the stain with a pre-wash soil and
stain remover.
   Next soak the garment for 15 minutes in a solution of a quart of
warm water, a half teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent and a
tablespoon of white vinegar.  Rinse with water, sponge the stain
with alcohol and then launder.  You may add a bleach safe for the
fabric to the wash to remove the last traces of the stain.  Follow
directions on the bleach container.
 
If the coffee or tea had both sugar and cream in it, you should   fdet.'s       
immediately sponge the stain with cold water.  Next, soak the
stained area in a solution of a quart of warm water, a half teaspoon
of liquid dishwashing detergent and a tablespoon of white vinegar.
Let the garment soak in the solution for 15 minutes.  Then rinse it
with water, sponge it with alcohol and launder it.  You may want to
use a bleach safe for the fabric to remove the last traces of stain.
   To remove coffee and tea stains from washable fabrics and linens,
you may also use one of the products that clean coffee and tea pots.
Follow directions on the container.
   The LSU Cooperative Extension Service does not endorse any of the
products mentioned.  There may be other products or procedures that
will remove coffee and tea stains equally well.  You may check
labels or ask for such products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cosmetic Stains. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/12/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3505
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3505,
"Cosmetic Stains."
   Cosmetic stains on your clothes usually don't ruin your garments.
Generally, these stains can be removed from your clothing with just
a little effort.
   Cosmetics come in two types...greasy and non-greasy.  Non-greasy
cosmetics include powdered makeup, eye shadow, blusher and similar
items.  Greasy cosmetics are lipstick, rouge, liquid makeup and
mascara.
   You can remove non-greasy cosmetic stains by dampening them with
water first.  Then, rub the area with a paste made from detergent
granules and water.  You also can use liquid detergent and water.
   If the stain is from oily cosmetics, you should pre-treat the
area with a pre-wash soil and stain remover.
   Or, you can place the stain face down on paper towels.  Sponge
the back of the stain with a dry cleaning solvent such as
Renuzit...that's spelled R-E-N-U-Z-I-T...Energine...spelled E-N-E-R-
G-I-N-E...Carbona...that's C-A-R-B-O-N-A... or some other spot
remover.  You can buy these at drug stores and grocery stores, and
sometimes in clothing and department stores.
   As you sponge the back of the fabric, move the fabric to a clean
area of the paper towel frequently so the towel with take out more
of the color.  Dampen the stain with water and work detergent into
the stained area.
   Rinse and launder your garment.  If the stain is still there,
treat it with chlorine bleach, if that's safe for the fabric.  If
the item is non-colorfast, use a bleach that's safe for colors.
 
For stains on suedes, leather garments and other valuable non-   on-et.'s       
washable items, have them professionally cleaned.  It's safest not
to try to remove stains from these garments at home.  When you take
the garment to the cleaners,
point out the stain to the clerk.
   For cosmetic stains on other dry-clean-only items, a cleaning
solvent or spot remover may be used.  But, if in doubt about care
for the fabric, check the label.
   In emergency situations, non-greasy spots may be dabbed with club
soda.  The bubbling of the carbonated water will generally remove
the stain.  Don't overwet the spot, though.  Follow the club soda
dab with a brisk rub using a clean, dry paper towel or handkerchief.
   The LSU Cooperative Extension Service does not endorse any of the
items mentioned.  There may be other products that will work equally
as well.  You may check labels or ask for such products where
cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Crayon Stains. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/12/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3506
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3506,
"Removing Crayon Stains."
   If crayons go through the laundry and leave spots on clothes,
don't despair.  There are ways to remove crayon stains.
   With just a few spots on a washable garment, you can remove the
surface crayon wax with a dull knife.  Next, you should place the
stained area between paper towels and press it with a warm iron.
Placing the garment with the stain face-down on the paper towels,
sponge the back of the remaining stain with a pre-wash spray or a
dry cleaning solvent.  You might use Renuzit...spelled R-E-N-U-Z-I-
T...Energine, E-N-E-R-G-I-N-E...Carbona...that's C-A-R-B-O-N-A... or
other solvent spot removers.  You can buy these spot removers at
drug stores and grocery stores, as well as some clothing and
department stores.
   After sponging with the solvent, let the fabric dry, then launder
it with soap.  If traces of color remain, you can wash it again
using chlorine bleach...if that's safe to use on that fabric.  If
not, soak the garment in an enzyme pre-soak or oxygen bleach with
the hottest water safe for the fabric.  Now, launder the garment.
   But, if crayon stains have spread throughout a load of clothes,
you need to follow this procedure.  First, wash the items with the
hottest water safe for the fabric, using a laundry soap and a cup of
baking soda.  If color still remains, launder the items with
detergents or soap, using a chlorine bleach...if it's safe for the
fabric.  Or, you can soak the garment in an enzyme product or
oxygen bleach, using the hottest water safe for the fabric. Now,
launder.
   For valuable, non-washable items, you should have them
professionally cleaned as soon as the spot is discovered.  Point out
the stain to the clerk at the cleaners.
 
You can use a dry cleaning solvent to remove crayon stains from   utet.'s       
most upholstery fabrics and other dry-clean-only items.  But, don't
use the solvents on leather, suede or vinyl upholstery.  If you're
not sure if a solvent is safe to use on your dry-clean-only clothes,
check the label.  You can test the solvent on a place that doesn't
show to see if it will harm the fabric.  If the fabric isn't harmed,
sponge the solvent onto the stained area.  Sponge it again if the
stain remains.
   When sponging the solvent on piled fabric, rub in the direction
of the pile.
   If you get crayon stains on vinyl, clean them with a heavy-duty
liquid laundry detergent, or make a paste with dry laundry detergent
and warm water.  If the stain remains, sponge the vinyl with rubbing
alcohol.  But, remember to test alcohol on a place that won't show
before putting it on the vinyl.
   If suede or leather get crayon stains, you shouldn't try to clean
these at home.  Take these items to the cleaners.
   The LSU Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing any
products by mentioning them.  There may be other products that will
work equally well.  You may check labels or ask for such products
where cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing food stains. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/12/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3507
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3507,
"Removing food stains."
   According to the old saying, "There's many a slip 'twixt the cup
and the lip."  And those slips can result in stains.
   Blot up spills as soon as they occur with a clean, dry cloth or
paper towel.  If you spill moist food onto the carpet, you should
clean it up before it seeps down into the carpet and the carpet
backing.  Scoop up the spill with a spoon, knife or spatula.  Try
not to press the spill into the carpet.
   You should blot the soiled area with a cloth or sponge wrung out
in a quart of water mixed with a teaspoon of liquid dishwashing
detergent and a teaspoon of white vinegar.  Don't wet the carpet
more than necessary, and towel dry the area after cleaning.  You can
cover the area with a padding of paper towels to absorb the
remaining moisture and speed up drying
   For greasy, oily stains that won't dissolve in water, blot the
stained area with a cleaning solvent or spot remover.  You can buy
these at drug stores and grocery stores, or in some carpet and
department stores.  Departments that rent rug equipment often have
carpet spot removers.
   Read container directions and follow them.  Some cleaners can't
be used on foam or rubber.  So, test the spot remover on a place
that won't show before putting it on the stained area.  If it
doesn't appear to harm the carpet or the pad, apply it.  After the
stain is gone, brush the pile lightly.  Don't step on the cleaned
area until it dries.
   If the stain persists, call a professional cleaner.  Some food
and beverage stains contain red coloring and can't be cleaned.
 
For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call   net.'s       
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Food Stains From Upholstered Furniture. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/16/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3508
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3508,
"Removing Food Stains From Upholstered Furniture."
   Knowing what kind of stain you have on your upholstered furniture
is the key to removing the stain.
   A word of caution, though.  Some upholstered fabrics shrink or
their colors bleed when they get wet.  So, always test the cleaning
method on a hidden area before cleaning.  If bleeding or shrinking
occurs, get professional advice.  For example, some velvets can't be
cleaned by home methods.
   But, once you know the kind of stain, many upholstery fabrics can
be cleaned with home methods.
   For hard candy...which is basically sugar and water...scrape off the
candy with a dull knife or rounded spoon.  Sponge the stained area
lightly with a a cloth dampened in cool water.  If this doesn't work,
you should sponge the area with a solution of water and detergent.
   To remove fruit stains, scrape off the pulp.  Next, you blot the
area with a clean cloth and cool water.  Mix clear vinegar with
detergent and water and sponge the stained area, then blot it dry.
You should also rinse the stained area with cool water to remove
traces of vinegar.
   To treat an egg stain, you should remove as much of the egg as
possible with the dull side of a knife.  Sponge the stained area lightly
with a solution of ammonia and cold water.  Note that I said cold
water...not warm or hot water.
 
Stains from dairy products, soft candies such as chocolates, and   ghtlys       
greasy spills require a cleaning solvent.  You can buy solvents at drug
stores and grocery stores, and in some furniture and department
stores.  Among the spot removers you might look for are
Goddard's...spelled G-O-D-D-A-R-D'S...Energine.. .E-N-E-R-G-I-N-E...or
Carbona, that's C-A-R-B-O-N-A.  Lightly sponge the solvent onto the
stained area, then blot with a clean, absorbent cloth.
   Dry cleaning solvents can damage some vinyls.  So, you should wipe
stained areas on vinyl with heavy duty liquid laundry detergent or a
paste made from dry laundry detergent and warm water.  If the stain
remains, sponge with rubbing alcohol.  But, remember to test all
solutions on a hidden area before trying it on the stain.
   To be safe, don't try to remove major stains on suede and leather
upholstery with home methods.
   The LSU Cooperative Extension Service intends no endorsement of
the products mentioned.  There may be other products that will work
equally as well.  You may check labels or ask for such products where
cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Stains Caused by Fruit Juices, Berries, Jam and Jellies. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/16/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3509
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3509,
"Removing Stains Caused by Fruit Juices, Berries, Jam and Jellies."
   The most important rule to remember in treating stains caused by
fruit or fruit juices is never to use soap.  Soap will set the
stain.
   Instead of using soap, you should apply an enzyme pre-soak...such
as Biz to stained areas, or soak the stains in cold water.  Next,
you should work a detergent...such as All or Wisk...into the stain,
then launder the garment, using the bleach recommended for that
fabric.
   If the stain is set, you may need to sponge it with white
vinegar, then work a detergent into the stained area before
laundering.
   For fabrics that can stand it, pour boiling water through the
stain.  You do this by placing the stained area over a bowl and
holding the fabric in place with a rubberband.  You still may see
some discoloration.  Treat that by sponging with lemon juice or a
three percent hydrogen peroxide solution.  Again, launder the
garment, using the right bleach for it.
   The LSU Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing any
products mentioned.  There may be other products which will work
equally well to remove stains.  You may check labels or ask for such
products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information or suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Gray Dingies in Your Laundry. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/16/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3510
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3510,
"Gray Dingies in Your Laundry."
   If your white laundry has a bad case of the "gray dingies," it might
be caused by a number of things.
   Sometimes the gray dingies are caused by washing white and
colored items together.  Little by little, colored dyes may transfer to
the white items.  The cure...sorting the items you wish to keep white.
If you don't have the time or desire to do this, it might be best not
to buy white items.
   Many items such as underwear, bed linens and towels are now
available in a variety of colors.  If you choose related colors...like
blues and greens, or beiges and tans, for example...you won't have to
sort as much.  This could save you time...and if your piles have been
smaller than a full load, it can save you money.
   Gray dingies can also be caused by not using enough detergent.
Usually it's safe to follow the directions on the detergent container.
But, detergent manufacturers' directions are for washing a "normal"
load of clothes with "average" soil in 16 gallons of water with
"average" hardness.  In hard water, or if the laundry is extremely
dirty, you may have to add extra detergent.  You put in less detergent
if your water is soft, if clothes are just lightly soiled, or if the load
is small.  But, more laundry problems are caused by too little
detergent than by too much.
   Another cause of the gray dingies is overloading the washing
machine's tub or basket.  You've probably had the urge to pack
clothes into the washer basket.  But, when you do this, the clothes
cannot move freely, resulting in poor washing and unremoved soil.  To
estimate the right-sized load, place dry, unfolded clothes in the
washer loosely until it is about three-quarters full.  But, if you're
planning to use the low-water level, load clothes until the washer
basket is less than a third full.
   Non-phosphate detergents...particularly the granular type...can cause
the gray dingies.  If you're using a non-phosphate detergent, use the
hottest water possible and dissolve the detergent in the water before
adding the clothes.  If you have hard water, you might want to add
about a third to a half cup of packaged water softener along with the
detergent.
   Not using hot enough water is a cause of the gray dingies.
Lowering the thermostat on the hot water heater saves energy but can
cause laundry problems.  Water heated to 140 to 150x removes soil
best.
   If the gray dingies have already struck your laundry, here's what
you can do.
   Check labels to be sure fabrics can be washed and bleached.
   Fill the washer with water as hot as possible.  You may even want
to add some boiling water to washer as it is filling if the water
temperature is not very hot.  Add twice as much detergent as you
would normally use.
   Place grayed clothes in washer and agitate for about four minutes
on the regular cycle.
   Stop the washer to add one cup of chlorine bleach diluted in one
quart of water.  If your washer has a bleach dispenser, add the bleach
to the dispenser.  If you don't have a dispenser on your washer, add
the bleach and water solution slowly, so the bleach can mix with
washer water before touching clothes.
   Be careful using bleach.  It helps laundry by disinfecting, removing
soil and whitening fabrics, but it can also remove color, rip, tear or
burn holes in clothes.  Never pour bleach directly on garments.
Always dilute it with at least four parts of water and mix well before
adding to clothes.
   Agitate clothes in the bleach solution for another four minutes.
   Now, stop the washer and let the clothes soak for about 15
minutes.
   Reset the washer so it has about 10 minutes of wash time, then
restart the machine and let it complete the cycle.
   If your clothes still are grayish, repeat the process until they are
white.
   On bright, sunny days, hang white clothes out and let nature's
bleach... the sun...continue the whitening process.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Grease from Fabric. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/7/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3511
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3511,
"Removing Grease from Fabric."
   To remove grease stains from washable fabric, pre-treat the stains
with a pre-wash spot remover or a cleaning fluid.  Rub the stain with
detergent.  Launder the garment in warm water, using plenty of
detergent.  Then, rinse it.  Repeat the process if the stain remains.
   For nonwashable items, sponge a dry cleaning solvent on the stain.
You may want to try Energine...spelled E-N-E-R-G-I-N-E...or
Carbona...spelled C-A-R-B-O-N-A...or Renuzit...spelled R-E-N-U-Z-I-T.
Other commercial products may work as well.  Check labels or ask for
these products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   Grease stains on upholstered furniture are common in active
households.  When you're treating these, it's important to pre-test the
fabric for color bleeding and shrinkage.  Try the recommended
cleaning method and solution on a hidden area other than a seam.
For a sure test, allow the fabric to set from one to two hours after
the treatment.  If it bleeds or shrinks, you'll need to ask for
professional advice and help.
   To treat grease stains, remove as much of the stain as possible by
scraping the area with the dull side of a knife.  Then, using a dry
cleaning solvent, sponge the area lightly.  Blot, rather than rub, the
fabric.  Use a clean portion of the cloth as you sponge, so you won't
return grease to the fabric.  Be careful no to soak the fabric with
solvent.  Apply it sparingly.
 
If discoloration from dirt in the grease or oil remains, sponge the   eed       
area with lukewarm detergent and water.  To remove the detergent
solution, sponge the area with a clean cloth that's been dampened with
clear, cold water.  Dry the treated area with an absorbent cloth,
tissue or sponge.  This will keep the liquids used in cleaning from
reaching the filling material.
   For more information and suggestions about stain removal, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Mildew from Clothes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/7/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3512
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3512,
"Removing Mildew from Clothes."
   Mildew on clothes is a common problem in the summer when
temperatures and humidity are high.  Mildew leaves a musty odor...it
discolors fabrics and it sometimes causes fabrics to rot.  Molds which
cause mildew are always in the air, but they need moisture to grow.
Items that are left damp or dirty are prime targets for mildew.
Clothes dampened by rain or perspiration should be dried before being
hung in a closet or put into the clothes hamper.
   If your house is moist, leave drawers and cabinets open for several
hours occasionally.  This stirs up the enclosed air and keeps moisture
from accumulating.  To dry out the air in a closet, leave a small
electric light burning continuously for a day or two.  Hang a mildew
inhibitor in an enclosed closet.  Some mothballs and moth cakes
contain mildew inhibitors.
   Store shoes on shelves at the top of the closet rather than on the
floor if you think the situation is right for mildew.
   If mildew has already appeared on clothing or household fabrics,
remove the spots as soon as you discover them.  Mold can weaken
materials.  Begin by brushing off mold outdoors so you don't scatter
mildew spores in the house.  On washable fabrics, pre-treat by rubbing
detergent into the dampened stain.  Then, launder the items in hot
water, detergent and chlorine bleach, if it is safe for the fabric.  If
the stain remains, sponge it with hydrogen peroxide, rinse and launder.
If the item isn't bleach-safe, soak it in an oxygen bleach that is safe
for colors, then wash it.  Take non-washable fabrics to the dry
cleaner and tell them what the stain is.
 
For more information and suggestions about stain removal, call the   feed       
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Nail Polish from Fabric and Carpet. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/7/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3513
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3513,
"Removing Nail Polish from Fabric and Carpet."
   When you're trying to remove nail polish from fabric, carpeting or
upholstered furniture, you have two problems:  the first one is
removing the polish and the second one is removing the color stain
left in the fibers.
   Both nail polish and polish remover can damage fibers seriously,
especially acetate.  If the spill occurred on fabric or carpets that
contain acetate, you'll need to call a professional cleaner.
   Also, some dyes are not colorfast to polish remover.  So, before
you put polish remover on a fabric, test it by applying a drop or two
in an inconspicuous area.  If there's no damage to the spot, use the
following suggestions to remove the polish.
   If the nail polish is still wet, absorb as much of it as possible on a
dry cloth or tissue.  Be careful not to spread the stain.  Then, go
over the stained area with a nonflammable cleaning solvent.  Apply
solvent with quick, light motions.  Wipe the stained area repeatedly
with a cloth dampened in clear water.
   If the nail polish has hardened, apply polish remover to the stained
area with an eyedropper.  Wait a few minutes for the polish remover
to penetrate and soften the polish.  If necessary, repeat the treatment.
   Here's an alternative for removing hardened nail polish.  First,
using a spoon with a dull edge, scrape off as much polish as possible.
Then, apply polish remover to the stained area and blot the excess.
Go over the stained area with a cloth saturated with nonflammable
cleaning fluid.  Use light, quick motions.  Then, wipe the stained area
with a cloth dampened in clear water.  Don't forget...always pre-test
before you use nail polish remover on any fabric or carpet. 
For more information and suggestions about stain removal, call the              
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Perspiration Stains and Odors from Fabric. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/7/82 (Tasker
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3514
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3514,
"Removing Perspiration Stains and Odors from Fabric."
   To remove perspiration stains from a washable fabric, pre-treat the
garment by soaking it in an enzyme pre-soak product.  Then, wash or
sponge the area with a solution of heavy-duty liquid detergent and
water.  You may also treat the discoloration of fresh stains with a
weak solution of colorless, clear ammonia and water.  Treat old stains
with a white vinegar solution.
   If the stain or odor persists, don't put the garment in a dryer and
don't iron it.  Heat will set the stain.  Instead, soak the garment
overnight in a warm salt solution that contains three-fourths
tablespoon of salt for each quart of water.  Then, rinse it.  Treat the
stained area with an all-purpose detergent paste and let it stand for
thirty minutes.  Then, rinse it again.  If the stain still persists, treat
it with a three percent solution of hydrogen peroxide and let it stand
for another fifteen or twenty minutes.  Rinse the garment and launder
it.  Repeat the process if necessary.
   You should take stained, nonwashable clothing to a reliable dry
cleaner.
   For more information and suggestions about stain removal, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Rust Stains. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:
Area:

                           Tele-Tip 3515
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3515,
"Removing Rust Stains."
   If you're attempting to remove rust stains from fabric, you may
want to use a commercial rust remover.  They're available where
cleaning supplies are sold.  Be careful to follow the directions on the
package.  Rust removers can burn your skin, so be sure they're rinsed
well from the fabric.
   If rust stains remain in clothing, apply a mixture of salt and lemon
juice to the stained area.  Let the fabric dry in the sun, then rinse it
and repeat the operation.  If the fabric can stand hot water, put it in
a solution of four tablespoons of cream of tartar to one pint of
boiling water.  Let the stained area soak until the stain is gone.
Then rinse it and launder it.  If the garments are made from synthetic
or manmade fibers, they may not withstand the hot water.  Send these
garments to the dry cleaner.
   To remove rust stains from sinks, tubs and tile, soak the area with
vinegar or lemon juice or treat it with a commercial rust remover.
You may also try using a diluted solution of oxalic acid.  You can buy
oxalic acid at most drug stores.  It's poisonous, so wear protective
gloves. To apply oxalic acid solution to the vertical surface under a
faucet, mix the solution with cornmeal, making a thick paste.  Apply
it carefully with water.  Don't let any of it get on the chrome
hardware.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Smoke Odors and Stains from Fabrics. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/7/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3516
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3516,
"Removing Smoke Odors and Stains from Fabrics."
   Families whose homes have caught fire are faced with an almost
impossible task...removing smoke odor and stains from the remaining
clothes and furniture.
   Smoke seeps through crevices, damaging clothes in closets, drawers
and cabinets.  Two kinds of smoke damage may occur...visible deposits
of burned material and odor.
   To reduce odor after a fire, you must remove all evidence of
charred or burned surfaces.  Then, wash surfaces and fabrics well to
remove smoke dust particles.
   Visible and odorous smoke damage on washable apparel can
generally be removed by five launderings. If the items can be
bleached, use a laundry detergent in combination with liquid chlorine
bleach.  Follow directions on packages for the amounts to use for
removing stains.
   Send non-washable items to the dry cleaners or hang them out to
air.  Mask remaining odor with a pleasant perfume or room deodorizer.
Pure vanilla extract can help mask smoke odor effectively.  Place
small portions of vanilla extract in open bowls or dab extract on
cotton balls or toweling and place these near air conditioning and
refrigerator vents.  This will circulate the aroma.
   Some dry cleaners have a process that removes smoke odor.  It's
called an ozone treatment.  Some dry cleaners and cleaning
establishments have portable ozone-generation units which they can
bring to a home or building to treat the air and all the items in the
area.  These are generally effective in removing smoke odor.
   There may be commercial products available to help remove smoke
odors and smoke stains.  Ask for them where cleaning supplies are
sold.
   For more information and suggestions about stain removal, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Stain Removal from Carpets and Upholstery. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/8/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 3517
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3517,
"Stain Removal from Carpets and Upholstery."
   The first rule of stain removal is to remove stains promptly after
they occur.  Many spots are hard to remove if the're allowed to "set."
Start by scrapping off any excess stain or blot off liquids with a dry,
clean towel or cloth as quickly as possible.
   Next, pretest the cleaning method you're going to use.  Before you
try any solution on a stain, test it to determine what effect it will
have on the fabric or carpet dyes...but be sure you do your test in an
inconspicuous spot such as on the backside or underside of the chair
cushion or in the corner or behind the drapery area of the carpet.  If
it looks as though the solution doesn't harm the fibers or the dyes of
the fabric...that is, if the colors don't run or bleed or the fabrics
don't shrink...then proceed with removing the stain.  If, on the other
hand, the fabrics do seem to be adversely affected, contact a
professional cleaning service.  Some rayon upholstery fabrics are
susceptible to shrinkage and color bleeding.  Don't use water on these
fabrics...instead use a dry-cleaning fluid.
   New upholstery fabrics sold after 1970 may have a letter code
which indicates the cleaning method that can be used safely.  Check
for the code before you apply cleaning or spot removal materials.
   If the letter, W, is seen, then water and cleaning agents or foam
mixed with water may be used.  If the letter, S, is seen, then use
only dry-cleaning solvents.  Don't use water.  If the letters W-S are
seen then either water-based methods or dry-cleaning solvents may be
used.  If the letter, X, is seen, then don't use any liquid or foam
cleaning agent.  Remove soil by brushing or vacuuming only or refer
the problem to professional cleaners.
   When you use cleaning materials, always apply them sparingly...with
a blotting or patting motion.  Don't soak the fabric with the cleaning
solution.  Dry the area immediately with an absorbent cloth, a tissue
or a sponge to keep the liquids from reaching the filling materials of
cushions or the backing or the pads under carpets.
   Solvent cleaners will soften and destroy natural rubber foam.
Synthetic fillings react less to solvents...but repeated excessive
applications could cause damage.  Be sure you're in a well-ventilated
room whenever you use dry-cleaning solvents.
   Remove greasy and oily stains such as chocolate, ice cream or
lipstick, with a dry-cleaning solvent such as Energine...spelled E-N-E-
R-G-I-N-E, or Carbona...spelled C-A-R-B-O-N-A, or Renuzit...spelled R-
E-N-U-Z-I-T.
   In removing chewing gum, candle wax and adhesive tape, rub them
with ice to harden them...then scrape off as much as you can with
your fingernail or a dull knife.  Then, wipe any remaining stain with
dry-cleaning solvent.
   Egg and blood stains can be sponged with a diluted solution of
ammonia.  Mix three teaspoons of ammonia in one quart of water.  If
the stain has set, sponge it with a three percent hydrogen peroxide
solution...then add a drop of ammonia to the stain on top of the
peroxide. Tap the stain with the back of a spoon.  Repeat the process
if necessary...then blot the area with clear water.
   You should sponge urine stains with white vinegar diluted with
water...then detergent and cool water.  Finally, blot the area with
clear, cool water.
   Mildew stains should be scraped off...then sponged with mild suds
and wiped with alcohol. 
Milk and vomit stains should be sponged first with dry-cleaning                 
solvent, then blotted and dried.  Next, apply a solution made of a
small amount of ammonia, mild detergent and water.
   After you've cleaned upholstery fabrics, brush pile fabrics while
they're still damp...brush against the pile after it has dried.  For
carpets, after wetting the surface during cleaning, place a dry towel
or other absorbent material over the area and weight it down.  If the
absorbent material becomes wet, replace it.  Let it stay on the cleaned
area for eight hours and then
remove it.  Brush the area to blend the pile with the surrounding carpet.
   No endorsement is implied nor discrimination intended by the mention of
commercial products in this program.  There may be other commercial products
available which work equally well in the removal of stains.  Check labels or ask
for such products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information about stain removal, call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Stains from Clothing. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/8/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 3518
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3518,
"Removing Stains from Clothing."
   The first rule in removing stains is treat the spot promptly.  If
stains are allowed to "set" there is less chance of removing them.  For
washable items which can be laundered in hot water with chlorine
bleach, removal of a majority of stains is relatively simple.  Hot
water, detergent and chlorine bleach will remove most of the common
stains including catsup, chocolate, cocoa, coffee, cosmetics, cream,
crayon, dye, egg, fruit, grass, grease, mildew, mustard and urine...to
name just a few.
   It is, of course, necessary that you remember undiluted chlorine
bleach should never come in direct contact with fabric.  Always dilute
the bleach in at least one quart of water.  Many washers do this
automatically if the bleach dispenser is used correctly.
   Caution:  Liquid chlorine bleach should not be used on wool,
fiberglass, acetate, Spandex, silk or on any garments where the label
warns against its use.  For stains on these fabrics and other washable
fabrics that can't be bleached with chlorine, launder them with a
generous amount of detergent and oxygen bleach or perborate bleach--
ones that say "safe for colors" or "all purpose."
   For blood stains which have set, apply hydrogen peroxide.  You can
get a three percent solution at drug stores.  Add a drop of household
ammonia to the stain on top of the peroxide.  Leave it there.  Then,
repeat the process until the blood stain fades.  Rinse the fabric well
and be sure you work in a well-ventilated area.
 
Pre-treat spots and stains such a fresh paint, tar and asphalt on   llrls or ask
washable fabrics with a dry cleaning solvent or pre-wash product.
Some solvents are flammable and others are poisonous.  Always
observe warnings on product labels.  After pre-treating, launder greasy
stains with very hot water and a generous amount of detergent.
   Don't put the garment in the dryer if the stains remain.  The heat
of the dryer may set the stains.  Instead, repeat the stain removal
process.
   For stains on fabrics that cannot be washed...sponge the stained
area lightly with clear water or club soda.  Then, blot the area dry.
Use a dry cleaning solvent on greasy and oily stains according to the
directions on the package.  Take valuable non-washable items to a
reliable dry cleaners.  And, be sure to point out the stain to them.
   Sometimes you will get a stain and you won't know what type it is
which makes it difficult to know what to do.  In these situations, use
the procedure that I'm about to describe until the stain is removed.
Some of these steps may result in the loss of color...but that may be
what it takes to remove the stain.
   First, soak the stain in cold water for at least twenty minutes.
   Second, work a laundry detergent into the stained area and let stay
there for thirty minutes...then rinse.
   Wash the fabric using a chlorine bleach on white or bleachable
colored cottons, nylons, acrylics, polyesters or linens...use an oxygen
bleach on all other fabrics.  An oxygen bleach is one that's labeled
"all-purpose" or "safe for colors."
   If the stain still remains, rub a laundry detergent into the stain or
treat the area with a special laundry additive designed for pre-soaking
according to package directions.  Soak the fabric from one hour to as
long as over night.
 
This time launder the fabric in hot water using a generous amount   sngrs or ask
of laundry detergent.  Set the washer for a full ten-minute wash and
allow it to go through the complete cycle.  However, for washable
wool and silk articles, and on non-colorfast fabrics, use warm rather
than hot water and agitate it only briefly, if at all.
   If the stain still remains, sponge it with a dry-cleaning solvent
such as Energene...spelled E-N-E-R-G-E-N-E...or Carbona...spelled C-A-
R-B-O-N-A.  If it's necessary, repeat these steps, rinse thoroughly and
launder.
   If the stain still remains, soak in a saltwater solution for two or
three
hours.  Then, rinse the fabric thoroughly and launder.  Don't allow metal
buttons or zippers to come in contact with the saltwater solution because they
may rust or tarnish.
   If the stain still remains, treat it with a rust remover product such as
"Rover Rust Remover," "Putnom Color Remover," or "Whink Rust Stain
Remover."  Be sure you follow the manufactuers' directions.  Rinse well.  Or,
moisten the stained area with a solution of one tablespoon of oxalic acid to one
cup of warm water.  Oxalic acid is available at most drug stores.  CAUTION:
Oxalic acid is highly poisonous.  Use rubber gloves to avoid skin irritation.  Mix
the solution in a plastic or glass container.  Rinse the treated garment
thoroughly to avoid fabric damage.  Never use oxalic acid in the washer.
   If this doesn't work, place oxalic acid crystals directly on the stain,
moisten it with hot water and allow it to stand for a few minutes.  Then, rinse
the fabric thoroughly.  Use warm water on wool, silk and non-colorfast fabrics
because hot water may affect them someway.
 
If, at this point, the stain still remains and the item can be   rfast fabricseM
bleached...mix equal parts of liquid chlorine bleach and water.  Apply the
solution to the stain with an eye dropper.  Large stained areas can be dipped in
the solution.  Repeat the process if necessary and then launder.
CAUTION:  Liquid chlorine bleach should not be used on non-colorfast items,
wool, silk, fiberglass or any garment when the label warns against it.  On these
fabrics, sprinkle oxygen bleach directly on the stain and dip it briefly into hot
water.
   If the stain remains after you've gone through all the steps just
mentioned, then most likely nothing can be done to remove it.
   No endorsement is implied or discrimination is intended by the mention of
commercial products in these recommendations.  There may be other commercial
products available that will work equally well to remove stains.  Please check
labels or ask for such products where cleaning products are sold.
   For more information about stain removal, call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Urine Stains from Carpets and Upholstery. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:
Area:

                           TeleTip 3519
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3519,
"Removing Urine Stains from Carpets and Upholstery."
   If you have a pet or young child, you're faced with the possibility
of having to remove a urine stain.  All stains can't be removed, nor
will all urine accidents result in a stain.
   Urine removes waste from the body, so the urine content of
animals, for example, will vary widely with age, sex, breed,
temperament, diet and health.  So, a urine stain, is never exactly the
same material and may produce different reactions with fabrics and
fibers at different times.
   Here's a special note about cat urine.  Unless the stain is removed
immediately, there will be little chance of completely eliminating the
odor.
   Most urine stains, however, can be removed if you work on them
within the first couple of hours.  But, if the stain is not completely
removed, a slow reaction of the urine and carpet or fabric dyes may
occur after a time.  In this case, the only way to restore carpet color
is to apply dye.  A professional carpet cleaning person may be able to
re-dye the stained area.  On carpets, one possibility is to cut out and
replace carpet with another matching piece.  If the urine is completely
removed, however, discoloration is generally not a problem.
   To remove urine, blot the excess liquid as quickly as possible with
clean, absorbent materials such as paper towels or cloths.  Sponge the
area with white vinegar diluted with water;  then sponge the area
with detergent and cool water; finally blot the area with clear, cool
water.  Blot the spot as dry as possible with a clean cloth or towel.
 
It's possible to remove the urine from the face of carpet or   towel.eye checkho
upholstery so no stain will develop and still have a problem with the
odor because the urine may have penetrated the padding, cushioning or
underlay.
   If this occurs and there is no way to clean these materials, after
the surface has been cleaned, it may help to disinfect the area by
saturating it with denatured or rubbing alcohol; then rinse with clear,
cool water.  Blot the area as dry as possible.  Place dry, absorbent
material over the wet area and press it to remove moisture.  If the
absorbent material becomes wet, replace it until as much moisture has
been removed as possible.
   For more information about removing stains, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Urine Stains from Clothing and Linens. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:
Area:

                           TeleTip 3520
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3520,
"Removing Urine Stains from Clothing and Linens."
   As with all stain removal, it's important to act quickly with urine
stains.  It's especially important to act quickly because urine may
react with fabric dyes causing discoloration.
   For washable fabrics that can be bleached, presoak them in cold
water for at least thirty minutes.  Launder these fabrics in hot water
using detergent and chlorine bleach according to the directions on the
bleach container.
   For washable, non-bleachable items, sponge the stained area with a
solution of equal parts of household ammonia and water...then launder
the item in warm water and detergent.  Rinse it well.
   For non-washable items, sponge just the stained area with clear
water to which a few drops of ammonia have been added.  Then,
sponge with clear water only.  In an emergency, club soda can be used
to sponge the stained area.  Blot the stained area quickly with a dry
absorbent material.  If the color doesn't change, apply denatured
alcohol or rubbing alcohol with a dampened pad or cloth.  But, be sure
to pre-test the alcohol on an inside seam to be sure it doesn't harm
the fabric.  Sponge again with clear water.  Blot dry with an
absorbent material.
   Take valuable, non-washable items to a reliable dry cleaner as soon
as possible.  Point out the stain and indicate what kind it is.
   For more information about removing stains, call the home
economist in lyour parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Auto Insurance--Buying. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3601
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3601,
"Auto Insurance--Buying."
   Most people know something about automobile insurance, but many
don't understand all parts of an automobile insurance policy.  Six basic
auto insurance coverages are available in Louisiana.  The first two
coverages you need to know about are types of liability insurance.
   Bodily injury liability coverage is designed to provide money to pay
claims against you and for the cost of your legal defense if your car
injures or kills another person.
   Property damage liability provides money to pay claims for damage
by your car to various types of property.  This will also provide
money for your legal fees if you are involved in a lawsuit as a result
of a liability insurance claim.
   Both types of liability protection provide coverage for you and your
car as long as you drive it or it is driven by members of your family
or others who drive with your permission.  This coverage also applies
to you and your immediate family when driving another person's car
with permission.
   Medical payments insurance provided through auto insurance
companies pays for medical expenses resulting from accidental injuries,
regardless of who is at fault.  Medical payments cover you, members
of your family and guests in your car.  Medical payments also would
be made if you were walking or riding a bicycle and were hit by a
car.
   Uninsured motorists protection pays for injuries caused by an
uninsured motorist or by a hit-and-run driver.  It provides no
coverage for any property damage, but provides for your medical
claims and for those of your immediate family and guests in your car.
   Collision insurance pays for damage to your car resulting from a
collision or from a car overturning.  You can collect regardless of who
was at fault in the accident.  If the other driver appears at fault,
however, your insurance company may collect from the other insurance
company.
   Comprehensive physical damage insurance pays for damage when
your car is stolen or damaged by fire, flooding, hail or other perils
such as a rock breaking a windshield.  It doesn't pay for damage done
when you are in a collision.
   For more information about money management and home budgeting,
call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Auto Insurance--How Much Do You Need? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3602
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3602,
"Auto Insurance--How Much Do You Need?"
   Because many kinds of automobile insurance are available, each
person must decide what coverage he or she needs.  Consider your
financial responsibility in choosing your policy.  Every driver is
responsible for driving safely and for injuries or damages he or she
causes.  Louisiana's compulsory liability financial responsibility law
says that for you to drive, you must carry liability insurance of at
least 5/10/5.  In the 5/10/5 coverage, the first limit applies to bodily
injury payments per person for each accident; the second limit applies
to the total that can be paid for the injuries of two or more persons
for each accident; the third limit refers to property damage.
   You should consider buying more auto liability insurance than the
5/10/5 required by law.  Insurance experts recommend buying the
highest limits you can afford.  Most recommend nothing less than
$100,000 for any one bodily injury, $300,000 for all bodily injuries and
$25,000 for all physical damages.  The difference in price is small, and
it is well worth the price for the added protection you get.
   If you're involved in an accident, you must prove that you are
insured or that you can pay the damages required by law.  If you
drive an older car, you might consider the cost of collision insurance
compared to the car's value.  If the car has a low resale value, you
may want to drop the collision coverage.  One way to lower your
insurance cost is to take the highest deductible allowed.  This
deductible is the amount you would pay for damages before the
insurance company would begin to help you.  The deductible comes in
specified amounts of $50, $100, $200 or $500.    The more of the
loss you can absorb, the lower the cost of your insurance.  By cutting
the cost of processing small claims, the insurance company can pass
its savings along to you in a lower cost for your insurance.
   You must decide whether you prefer full coverage with a small
deductible and its higher premium or if you want the higher deductible
and a lower premium.
   Before buying auto insurance, talk to several company
representatives.  Ask friends to recommend agents or companies.
Check the yellow pages of the phone book.  Find out about the laws
in Louisiana and decide what coverage is best for you in relation to
your financial situation.
   If your car is older and you are considering a replacement car,
contact your insurance agent to see what the insurance charges will
be.  Do this before making a final decision on the car.  If you are
considering one or more cars, you may want to base your decision to
buy on the cost of insurance coverage.  Repair records of certain cars
have caused insurance companies to set different rates based on the
repair costs of different models.  You may be able to cut insurance
costs by checking with insurance companies before buying a car.
   For more information about money management and home budgeting,
call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Coupons Save Money. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3604
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3604, "Coupons Save Money."
   Eighty percent of all shoppers now use coupons when shopping.
Coupons are another way that manufacturers advertise and encourage
the use of their products.  The average coupon is about 18 cents off,
or 15 percent off, the regular price of the product.
   A smart shopper can use coupons to save money.  First, look for
cents-off coupons.  You can find coupons in weekly newspaper
supplements, magazines, on product boxes, on labels, displays or tear-
off pads on the supermarket shelf or bulletin board.  Some may be
mailed to you.
   One good way to save money is to start a coupon swap club to
take advantage of refunds and coupons.  Be a courteous shopper and
tell the clerk at the checkout counter that you have coupons to
redeem.  This gives the checker time to examine the coupons for
expiration dates and any other policies regarding the store's
acceptance of coupons.  Collecting and organizing coupons becomes
easier the longer you do it.  Here are a few steps to follow:
   Clip and sort the coupons according to specific categories:  dairy
foods, meats, pet food, cleaning products, paper products and any
other category that fits your lifestyle.  You may want to use separate
envelopes for each category, or sort your coupons in a small box. If
your shopping list is organized in a similar fashion, you can find your
cents-off coupons quickly before shopping.  As you file coupons, put
those with the earliest expiration dates in front so you won't forget
about them. 
Don't forget that you don't save money by buying an item simply                 
because you have a coupon.  Check your shopping list carefully and
use coupons only for items on the list.
   Make sure the brand-name product for which you have a coupon is
not more expensive--even with the discount--than similar house brands
and generics.  It doesn't make much sense to buy the brand-name item
just to use the coupon.
   Using coupons will save you money only if you follow these simple
rules for careful shopping:

   1.  Always shop with a list of what you plan to buy.
   2.  Avoid impulse buying, and don't buy anything your family will
not use.
   3.  Study papers for store specials before you shop.  Look for
additional specials advertised in the store.
   4.  Check prices carefully.  Don't be misled by end of the aisle
displays.  Always read signs near products.
   5.  If your retailer doubles the face value of your coupons on a
certain day, plan to do your major shopping on that day.
   For more information about the management of your family budget,
call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Deflate Inflation. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3605
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3605, "Deflate Inflation."
   Families at all income levels are having trouble buying the things
they want or need.  One way to help fight rising prices and to enjoy
your income is to try new ideas that can help stretch your dollars.
   Here are 12 suggestions for fighting inflation:
   DON'T BUY IT.  Ask yourself if you really need the item.  It it's a
"want" item rather than a "need," ask yourself if there is anything you
want more.  Give yourself a day or two to think about it.  Most items
can wait a day or two; a "last chance" to buy isn't often really a last
chance.  If you have a hard time not buying, stay out of stores, or
when you do shop, take only the money you must have for real needs.
   BORROW.  Sometimes you can borrow an item you need, especially
if it's something you don't need often.  Return borrowed items in good
condition.  Don't forget the library and other public services when you
need to borrow.  Do you have items you're willing to lend?
   SHARE.  Sharing items with our family and friends can save money.
Neighbors can sometimes share the price of something like a bushel of
apples.  Share ideas, recipes and skills with others.  Sharing usually
means that everyone benefits as a result of getting together on an
idea or a project.
   FIND IT FREE.  Free goods and services can really help to stretch
your money.  Tax dollars buy things for the community that everyone
can use.  Parks, playgrounds, community health services and libraries
are among the services available to you without charge.  Use the free
things available to you. 
TRADE.  If you have things in your home that you no longer need                 
or want, you may be able to trade them to others who can use them.
What could you trade with a neighbor or friend for something they
have that you may need or want?
   RENT OR HIRE.  When you need something for a short time, it
may be cheaper to rent it.  What kinds of things can you rent?
Count coin-operated laundries, cars, tools and special occasion
clothing.  Sometimes we can rent things when the cost of buying them
is too high for our budget.
   FIND THE BEST BUY.  Finding the best buy may take time and
energy.  The best buy for you is the item that will serve your needs
best at the lowest possible price.  Finding the best buy may mean
looking in several places:  catalogues, newspapers, calling or going to
two or three different stores.  Sometimes secondhand stores offer the
best buy.  If you know exactly what you need or want, you'll find it
easier to get the best buy.
   SUBSTITUTE.  When you go to buy something, ask yourself if
another item at a lower price will do the job just as well.  Many
products have excellent substitutes, and sometimes the substitute is
better than the original.
   MAKE IT.  Sometimes you can save money by making an item.  The
materials should cost less than the finished product.  Be sure to check
prices before you supply your know-how, labor and time to make
something.  Sometimes it's cheaper to buy an item than it is to pay
for supplies to make it.
   USE COUPONS OR REFUNDS.  Use cents-off coupons from stores
and manufacturers to stretch your dollars.  Save labels and product
packagings and send them in for cash refunds.  Coupons and refund
offers are found in magazines, newspapers and often come in your
mail.
   USE WISELY. Find ways to make your belongings last longer or
keep from spoiling before you use them up.  Treat the things you buy
as you treat your money! 
CARE FOR.  Almost every product you buy needs some kind of                      
care.  Read labels and instruction books that come with items you buy.
Learn to clean and care for the things you own.
   If you would like more information on budgeting and other home
money management matters or if you would like to have a free
pamphlet called "Deflate Inflation--Stretch Your Dollars," call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Door-to-Door Sales. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3606
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3606,
"Door-to-Door Sales."
   Door-to-door sales, or direct selling, is the nation's oldest method
of selling.  To be sure you are buying reputable products from reliable
salespeople, ask some questions before you buy.  If you don't get
satisfactory answers, don't buy.
   When someone rings your doorbell, he or she should tell you what
they have come to discuss.  They should give their name, the
company's name, and the product or service offered.  You should ask
for identification so you can be sure the person is who he says he is.
   When a product is shown, be sure you understand what it will do,
what it won't do, how it works, how to get repairs and where to get
repairs.  Ask questions.  That's the best way to make a smart buy.
Check on the guarantee or warranty.  Find out how long it lasts, what
it covers, and what the company's written policy is on refunds or
exchanges.
   Be sure you know how to reach the salesperson and company after
the sale.  Get the name, address and telephone number of the person
or company.  You may need more information later.  Be sure the sales
contract is clear and complete.  By law, a contract must specify the
terms of the sale.  Don't sign a contract with blank spaces.  Be sure
each line is filled in or marked out before you sign.
   Be sure the finance charge is disclosed fully in an annual
percentage rate term.  Look for incidental charges.  Are they stated
clearly?  Ask for and keep a copy of any contract you sign.  If, after
the salesperson leaves, you decide to cancel the contract, by law you
have three business days in which to cancel any purchase of more
than $25 made in your home.                      The salesperson
must tell you about this right to cancel.  Ask about it and find out
who to contact if you wish to cancel.  Some companies may offer a
longer period for cancellation.  Ask about the company's policy.
   If you aren't satisfied with the product, call the salesperson.  If he
or she cannot resolve the problem, contact the company directly.
Make any cancellations in writing.
   If you are still not satisfied, you may want to contact a local
consumer agency such as the Better Business Bureau or the Governor's
Office of Consumer Protection.
   Shopping for products in the convenience of your home can be
satisfying, but you must be careful to ask the right questions and
make the right decisions.
   For more information about your rights and privileges as a shopper
or for a free pamphlet called "Shopping at Home From Door-to-door
Salesmen," call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Enjoying Your Income. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3607
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3607, "Enjoying Your Income."
   Money is important to all of us.  The less money you have, the
more important money may seen.  But, how you manage the money you
have is even more important.  Because living costs are rising every
year and incomes don't always keep up, you may need to adjust your
spending if you are to maintain a satisfactory lifestyle and enjoy your
income.  Planning your spending gives you a chance to make some
choices.
   Because spending is a family matter, all members of the family need
to be involved in planning how to spend family dollars.  Young people
learn about money management when they are involved in making
family decisions about money.
   Having a plan for spending your money gives you more control.
You can plan ahead and spend without feeling guilty.  By making and
following a spending plan, you are in control and should have money
from payday to payday.  To plan your spending, estimate the amount
of money your family has coming in during a certain time -- a week,
every two weeks, monthly or yearly.  Look at this take-home pay as
the true amount you have to spend.  Your income will include salaries,
interest, social security payments, retirement checks or dividends.  If
wages are seasonal, figure an average of the usual amounts you earn
in a week or month.
   Next, you need to know exactly what and how your family is
spending.  You need a total of each big item so you can see where
you are putting your money.  You may need to look carefully at your
shopping habits.  With living costs rising, it is more necessary than
ever before to get the most from each dollar you spend.  
To see if you're really getting satisfaction from your spending, ask            
yourself this question:  If I had extra money each month, what would
I want to buy?"  A new plan for spending may help you get the things
you really want or need.  Each family member probably wants at least
part of any extra money, but the family as a whole should decide on
how to spend extra money.
   For more information and suggestions about home budgets, call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Family Records--What to Keep and For How Long. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3608
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3608,
"Family Records--What to Keep and For How Long."
   You need family records for several reasons:  to prove you own
property, as proof for income and estate taxes, for family finance, and
for measuring your family's financial progress.
   Records cost time and money when you get them--and even more
when you lose or misplace them.
   Every family has three kinds of records:  personal records,
financial records and property records.  Some should be kept
permanently.  Others may be kept for shorter periods.
   Records you should keep permanently are personal records that
pertain to adoption or divorce, education, employment, military service,
health and medical care, marriage, birth or death, funeral or burial
and citizenship.  Keep your social security number and an up-to-date
copy of your will, too.
   Keep insurance records only as long as the policies are in effect.
   Financial records you should keep permanently are:  receipts of
valuable purchases, important contracts and contents of your safe
deposit box.  Those to keep only as long as you need them are:
credit card numbers, installment agreements, bank records, and
investment, budget and expenditure records.
   The Internal Revenue Service says you should keep records at least
four years for income tax purposes.  Some financial advisors
recommend keeping tax records for ten years.
   Property records you should keep permanently are:  deeds,
improvement records for real property, purchase receipts for personal
property, and an up-to-date inventory of personal and household
goods.           As long as you own property, keep such things as
titles, receipts and guarantees for durable goods like automobiles and
equipment.  Keep sales records and guarantees for non-durable goods
like clothing and household items until you are certain the items are
okay.
   Remember:  Family records are important.  Store them in a safe,
convenient place where you can use them.
   For more information about which family records you should keep
or for a free pamphlet called "Your Important Papers--What to Keep
and Where," call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Conserving Water In The Home. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3700
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3700, "Conserving Water In The Home."
   Conserving water in your home is easy.  Simply check for leaks,
install water-saving devices and develop some water management
habits.
   You may not realize it, but leakage accounts for about five to ten
percent of all residential water consumption, and is caused mainly by
worn-out faucet washers and faulty toilet tank valves.
   A steady drip of a leaking faucet can waste as much as twenty
gallons per day.  A more serious type of leak can occur in toilet
tanks, wasting as much as two hundred gallons of water a day.  Since
the leaking water runs from the tank into the bowl, you can't see it
or hear it.  You can check for a toilet leak by removing the tank
cover and placing a few drops of food coloring in the tank,
preferably when the toilet will be unused for several hours.  If the
food coloring seeps into the bowl, your toilet has a leak.
   Correcting these leaks is an easy and inexpensive way to reduce
your water consumption.
        The next step you can take is to buy water-saving devices,
which are usually inexpensive and easy to install.
   Almost half of the water used in your home is used for waste
disposal through the toilet.  Devices are available to reduce the
amount of water used to flush the toilet.
   You can buy toilet tank volume reducers -- improved float
assemblies that allow water level adjustments and signal you when
there is a leak -- or dual flush mechanisms which allow you to select
a small or large flush.
   These water-saving devices do not work equally well in all types of
toilets.  Some are more effective than others.  Do not use a device
that requires you to flush twice.  It could actually increase your water
consumption.
   You may have heard that placing bricks in your toilet tank will
reduce the amount of water in the tank.  However, bricks are not
recommended because they can deteriorate in the water and bricks can
break parts of the toilet if you drop them.
   An alternative to bricks is plastic bottles.  You can put one or
more clean plastic one-quart bottles filled with water and a small
stone or sand in your tank.  By using bottles you can avoid bending
the float arm down which lowers the water level.  Lowering the water
level reduces the force of the flush, resulting in unsatisfactory
cleansing of the bowl.
   If you're installing a new toilet, buy one that uses less water than
the five to seven gallons a conventional toilet uses.
   You can buy an aerator to reduce the flow of water through your
faucet. A thermostat mixing valve or a shutoff valve near the shower
head allows you to turn off the water while lathering -- without
disturbing the temperature adjustment of the shower controls.
   With a shower head flow restriction or controller, you can reduce
by half the amount of water you use per minute.  A restriction
reduces the flow of water by creating smaller openings in the shower
head.  Constant rate devices maintain a steady flow rate regardless of
changes in the water pressure.
   Water can also be conserved by using dishwashers only when
they're full and by buying clothes washers with variable water level
settings.
   By changing a few habits you can conserve even more.  For
example, turn off the water while you're brushing your teeth or
shaving, take a shower instead of a bath, and water your lawn early
in the morning with a sprinkler that does not spray in a mist.
   For more information on conserving water in the home, contact the
home economist of your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Family Records, Storage. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3609
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3609,
"Family Records, Storage."
   You can save time and money by organizing and storing personal
and family papers in a safe place where you can get to them quickly
and easily.
   First, get all papers together and sort them according to how often
you will need them.  How often the paper will be used and its value
will help you decide the best place to store it.  You'll need three
areas of storage:  some form of fireproof and theftproof storage, home
storage and items you should carry with you.
   Fireproof and theftproof storage means a home safe or safe deposit
box.  Here you'll store papers that are hard or expensive to replace.
These include:  adoption papers, auto title and bill of sale, citizenship
papers, debt or credit papers (especially those pertaining to your
home), death certificates, divorce papers, income tax returns and
receipts, inventory of important family papers, inventory of personal
and household goods, investment certificates and government bonds,
important cancelled checks and payment receipts, and important
contracts.  Other items stored here will be:  marriage and birth
certificates, patents and copyrights, record of insurance policies,
property records including deeds, bills of sale, military service records
(including discharge and veteran claim number), social security numbers
and a copy of wills.
   For home storage, use a home business center, desk, file cabinet,
drawer, box or other safe and convenient place for papers that are
used often.  
These might include:  appliance records (including guarantees and               
instructions), auto records, cancelled checks and bank statements, care
instructions for clothing and household furnishings, education records,
employment records, family health records, financial account records
(for farm and business), instructions about funeral or burial plot,
insurance policies, inventory of household goods, list of credit card
numbers and lenders, and personal and family debt records.
   Items you should carry with you in your wallet or purse are:  your
auto insurance card, blood type record, card stating person to be
notified in case of an emergency, cards indicating allergies to medicine
or any special health problems, driver's license, health and accident
insurance cards, identification card and organization membership cards.
   When your papers are sorted, store them in their proper places.  Be
sure to make a list of your papers and where they are stored.
   For more information about storing important records or for a free
pamphlet called "Record of Important Papers," call the home economist
in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Health Insurance--Buying. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3610
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3610,
"Health Insurance--Buying."
   Health insurance lets you budget in advance for unexpected
illnesses and the high costs of medical care.  Every member of a
family should be covered by medical insurance.
   If your employer offers a group medical insurance policy for you
and your family, sign up for this benefit.  It's a good buy whether the
employer pays all premium costs or if you must pay part of them.
Group policies are usually the least expensive in costs per person.
   If your employer doesn't provide health insurance, try to join a
group that does.  Cooperatives, trade unions and other private
organizations may have policies available.  If you leave a job for any
reason, and lose medical benefits, arrange for coverage until you join
another group.
   It's hard to anticipate your needs for medical care, so buy the
broadest policy you can afford.  Be sure you're covered for accidents
and illnesses, also outpatient and hospital care.  Other desirable
benefits for some individuals include:  prescription drugs, diagnostic
tests, dental care, private duty nursing and skilled nursing home care.
   Choose a policy that pays on the basis of services performed, or a
stated percentage of the costs, rather than a specified amount for
different services.  Although a specified amount for a particular
procedure may seem adequate when the policy starts, costs could have
increased greatly by the time you need it. 
Compare the costs of several policies offering the same coverage.               
Rates are not the same.  Look for the "loss ratio" of a company
before you buy.  This indicates how much in claims policy holders
have received from premiums they paid in.
   Read policies carefully for waiting periods, pre-existing conditions
and other exclusions.  Avoid restrictive policies.  Be sure you
understand all terms used.  Ask the insurance representative to explain
terms in simple language.  Make sure you understand the terms for
renewal and the conditions for changing premium rates.
   Choose a policy from a company that is financially sound.  Best's
Insurance Reports, available at most public libraries, can give you this
information.  The Louisiana State Department of Insurance can answer
questions about a company, its reputation and record of servicing
claims of customers.  Be careful about buying health insurance from
mail order insurance companies.
   Review your insurance coverage periodically to make sure it still
meets your needs.
   For more information about money management and home budgeting,
call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Health Insurance--How Much Do You Need? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3611
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3611,
"Health Insurance--How Much Do You Need?"
   Your most urgent health insurance need is for basic medical
protection for each member of your family.  This protection provides
benefits for hospital care, including daily room and board, routine
nursing care and minor medical supplies.  It covers costs for a
portion of most surgical procedures and doctors' visits in the
hospital, as well as some other services such as laboratory tests and
x-rays, anesthesia and use of the operating room.  Some outpatient
care may be included in this policy, too.  If you are in your
childbearing years, you need a policy that will cover routine costs for
delivery of a child and pre-natal and post-natal care.
   If you can afford it, get major medical coverage.  It provides
protection against the bills of serious and prolonged illness, and offers
broader coverage than your basic plan.
   A catastrophic policy is the third level of protection.  It is the
most expensive and provides the most benefits.  Most families of
moderate means have other uses for the money needed for these high
premiums.  Avoid policies which cover only one or a few major
illnesses, such as cancer.
   If your employer provides a good medical insurance policy, you may
not need a second policy--especially if the company policy includes a
major medical clause.
   If your company policy is a group policy and you buy another
group policy, the two companies will coordinate benefits so that more
of the costs will be reimbursed.  But you won't get more than the
total medical charges, and you may learn you have paid needlessly for
a second policy.                                 Group policies won't
coordinate benefits with individual policies, and since you pay a lot
more for individual policies, you might not come out ahead.
   A disability income protection plan is desirable for major
breadwinners in your family.  Before considering a policy of this type,
determine the sick leave policies of your employer and other
alternatives for interim income.
   Financial advisors say you should have from three to six months
income in savings.  This sum could help your family during your
serious illness or accident.  If you are injured on the job, you may
receive income from Workmen's Compensation.
   Retired persons should have a good health insurance policy.  If you
are on Social Security, sign up for Parts A and B of Medicare.  This
will take care of most of your medical care and hospitalization.  But,
there are gaps in Medicare, so you need an additional policy designed
to cover these gaps.  Some organizations offer such policies at group
rates, and you can get similar policies from most health insurance
companies.  Check them carefully.
   If you don't qualify for Social Security, or if you retire before you
are eligible for Medicare, shop around for a good medical insurance
policy.  Try to get a group plan.  As soon as you are eligible, switch
to Medicare coverage.
   For more information and suggestions about insurance, contact the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Homeowners Insurance:  How Much do You Need? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3613
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3613, "Homeowners Insurance:  How Much do You Need?"
   Statistics show that about 70 percent of the population carries
enough homeowners insurance, and about 30 percent of the population
carries too little.  Market values of houses have increased dramatically
in recent years, as have the costs of construction.  If you don't have
enough homeowners insurance you may not be able to replace your
home if it's destroyed by fire.
   There are four basic types of homeowners insurance:  HO1, HO2,
HO3 and HO4.  The HO1 is a stripped-down policy covering fire,
lightning, windstorms, hail, explosion, rot, civil commotion, aircraft-
vehicle theft, breakage of glass or safety glazing materials, smoke,
vandalism and malicious mischief.  As you move up to Homeowners 2,
you get coverage from falling objects, such as a tree falling on your
house.  HO3 adds such things as the weight of ice, snow or sleet on
your roof, as well as the collapse of a building.  Homeowners 3 also
covers frozen pipes that burst and cause water damage.  If you have
HO4, all perils coverage, it covers everything except moving land and
water, war, nuclear hazards and the like.  If you are in an area which
is subject to high water, you should buy a special flood insurance
policy from the federal government.
   An all perils, or all risk, coverage usually costs about 40 percent
more than the stripped down contract, but it does give you far greater
protection.  These policies also offer protection if something of yours
is stolen while you are traveling.  Under most homeowners policies,
college students away from home and their belongings are protected. 
Some policies let you cover the replacement cost of the building                
and its contents.  Under terms of the replacement policy, if you
insure for value, the home or its contents will be replaced as close to
the original as possible.  Replacement insurance costs only a little
more a year.
   For full coverage of partial damage, you must insure for at least 80
percent of the value of the home.  You won't receive dollar for dollar
coverage for even a partial loss unless you are insured for at least 80
percent of the value.  Many people think that if they buy $50,000
worth of insurance and have a $25,000 loss on a $75,000 house that
they will receive the full $25,000.  This isn't true.  You have about 75
percent covered, and you will get only 75 percent of the damage minus
a certain amount for depreciation of contents.
   Replacement cost coverage on the house alone doesn't cover
replacement cost for the contents.  You can buy replacement cost
insurance for the contents under a separate policy.  Under standard
policies, the replacement of an article is based on its useful life.  This
means that after a few years, the replacement value may be zero.
Most contents insurance is equal to 40 percent to 50 percent of the
building's insurance value.  So, if you have $l00,000 worth of insurance
on your home, you have about $50,000 worth of coverage on its
contents.
   Because extremely valuable items may not be covered up to the full
amount of their value in a standard policy, you may need to add a
separate silver and jewelry floater.
   Liability is another consideration.  Most standard contracts offer
$25,000 liability.  In today's economy, that isn't much.  It's generally
recommended that at least $100,000 worth of liability be carried.
There's a small extra charge.  And, for just a little bit more, you can
get $300,000. 
Renters and condominium policies are available, too.  Renters                   
insurance covers only the contents, not the building.  Condominium
owners insurance covers everything inside the four walls of the
apartment.  The structure itself is usually covered under a master
insurance contract bought by the condominium association.
   Evaluate your homeowners insurance every three years and, if
possible, add an inflation endorsement rider to your standard policy.
This way, the cost of homeownership is added to your policy each
year when the premium is due, and you can be sure you'll have enough
coverage if your home is damaged and must be replaced.
   For more information and suggestions about homeowners insurance, call
the home economist or county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
How to Buy an Appliance. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3614
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3614, "How to Buy an Appliance."
   Many brands and kinds of major and small appliances are on the
market today, but before you make a purchase, ask yourself if you
really need the appliance.  Some are bought because of the novelty
they provide as much as for the functions they perform.  Sometimes a
new appliance doesn't really save time or energy because the setting
up and cleaning up take so much time.
   Some features on appliances save time and energy, and some add
convenience but use more energy.  Sometimes extra features are used
seldom once the novelty wears off, so you might not want to pay
extra for these features.  Often the basic appliance unit is the same
for several brands, but the price increases as the number of added
features increases.  This is especially true on major appliances, so if
you want to save money, don't buy more features than you really
need.
   Before you buy, consider where the appliance will be stored and
where it will be used.  Sometimes storage creates a problem that
outweighs benefits.  Be sure the place where you'll use it is wired
adequately and that there's an outlet available.  Don't plan to use
extension cords unless it's absolutely necessary because they reduce
efficiency and may be dangerous.
   Another important decision -- once you've decided you really need
the appliance and that you have room for it -- is cost.  Be sure to
consider the original price tag plus any installation costs as well as
operating and maintenance costs.  High operating costs may make
energy-efficient models worth the initial higher price.  For example:
Some new models of refrigerators and freezers are 50 percent more
energy efficient than models 10 years old.  Check the yellow and
black Energy Guide Levels on most major appliances for energy
information.     If you plan to spread out payments, check the cost
of credit.  If you can anticipate buying an appliance, try to save a
little each month so you can pay cash and avoid the cost of
installment buying.  You may even get a lower price if you can pay
cash.  Anticipating your purchase will also give you time to get the
information you need to buy wisely.  If you know you'll be buying a
major appliance, start reading advertisements, consumer magazines and
buying guides available at your local library.  Ask friends and relatives
about the models they have and which features they use or don't use.
   For large appliances, in particular, service may be important.  If
you are gone during the day, you'll need a reliable service person who
makes calls after hours or on weekends.
   Some appliances have a warranty or guarantee, but the terms vary.
Be sure to take time to read the written guarantee, and don't just
take the word of the salesman.  When you buy, fill out and keep the
warranty cards.  Look for safety seals and seals of approval.  The U L
seal (Underwriters' Laboratory) is probably the best known safety seal.
Another seal, a blue star emblem, may be found on gas appliances.  It
means that the design and construction meet safety and performance
standards of the American Gas Association Laboratories.
   Some magazines and other groups have seals of approval, too, but
they vary in their worth to the consumer.  Don't assume that a seal
assures quality.  For the most part, appliances on the market do what
they are designed to do.  Your choice of brand and price will depend
on personal preference and individual need rather than actual
differences in function and quality.
   For more information about choosing appliances for your home, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Ordering Merchandise by Mail. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  8/12/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 3616
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3616,
"Ordering Merchandise by Mail."
   Most reputable mail order firms are eager to give you good service
because they appreciate your business and want you to order from
them again.  But, aside from their willingness to satisfy, mail order
firms are regulated by the Federal Trade Commission.  One of the
regulations under which mail order houses operate is the so-called
thirty-day rule.
   Here's how the thirty-day rule affects you.  If the seller knows he
can't fill an order within thirty days, he must say so in his
advertisements.  If he's unable to fill the order within thirty days, he
must notify you of your right to a refund.
   If you want a refund, you must notify the seller.  But, if the seller
notifies you that he can't fill the order within thirty days and you
don't respond, he then has sixty days to fill the order.  If sixty days
pass and the seller still hasn't filled the order, he must give you the
choice of getting a full refund or waiting longer.
   If you don't respond when you're given this choice, the seller is
required to refund your money.  You can give the seller any number
of thirty-day extensions...but once the third extension is granted, you
may ask for a refund at any time.
   The Federal Trade Commission rule doesn't apply to services like
mail order photo finishing, magazine subscriptions, plants, seeds,
orders mailed "Collect on Delivery," and credit orders where the
buyer's account isn't charged before shipment.
 
If you have trouble with a mail order firm, try to work out the   e yours       
problem with the firm.  If you fail to work it out to your satisfaction,
notify the Federal Trade Commission, or the Louisiana governor's
Office of Consumer Protection or the U.S. Postal Service.
   If you would like more information about your rights as a consumer
or if you would like some help with your family budget, call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Planned Spending Buys More. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3617
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3617, "Planned Spending Buys More."
   Planned spending helps you get more for your money, and since
most of us have more needs than we have money, a spending plan can
help us see each purchase in relation to all the other ways we could
spend our money now and in the future.  Planned spending can help
you take advantage of sales, and it can help reduce credit and
installment costs.
   Planned spending means figuring out where you stand right now.
First, make a list of your income--including your paycheck, social
security or pension.  Now look at your spendable income after taxes,
your take-home pay.  This is the part you can spend or save.
   Next, list your fixed expenses:  mortgage, insurance, installment
payments, income taxes, property taxes and any other expenses that
are due once a month or once a year.  Add these up and divide the
total of your fixed expenses by the number of paychecks you receive.
Then you'll know how much to set aside each pay period.
   For example, if you get money each month, divide the total by 12.
If you are paid weekly, divide by 52.  This is the amount you'll have
to set aside each pay period to meet your fixed expenses.  Subtract
this amount from the amount of money you have coming in.  The
money left is the money you can make decisions about.  It is the
money you have to spend over the pay period on food, transportation,
utilities and other flexible expenses.  Try to divide the money among
the items you generally spend money on.  Try to plan so these
expenses don't take everything that's left. 
Set aside a few dollars each pay period for things you'd like to                
have.  List the things you want now and those you want in the future.
Find out how much each will cost and think about how you will save.
Include all family members in the discussion.
   You and your family probably have some ideas about what you want
now and in the future.  You may want clothes, a piece of furniture or
a television set in the near future.  Long-range goals may include
education for the children, a home or a family trip.  It helps if you
write your goals on paper.  List first those things you want most.
Decide how many of the items you want enough to set aside an
amount each month in order to get them.  Add what these items cost
and again divide the total by the number of paychecks you receive.
The answer is the amount you'll need to set aside each month.
Subtract this from your paycheck also.  Make sure the amount adds up
to no more than you have left to spend.  This is your financial plan.
   There isn't an ideal way to plan spending for everyone.  Each
person or family is unique, with different income, needs and goals.
Also, spending plans must be flexible enough to adjust to changes
which may occur in your life and in the economy.  But having a plan
helps you to ask before you spend:  "Is this the best use of my
money?"
   For more information on managing your household budget, call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Safe Debt Load. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3618
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3618, "Safe Debt Load."
   Your debt load is the amount of your take-home pay that goes to
pay off creditors each month after you pay your rent or mortgage
payment.  Ten percent of your take-home pay is considered a
comfortable debt load.  Fifteen percent is thought to be manageable,
but anything approaching twenty percent is a sign you're getting deep
in debt.
   Another rule of thumb for deciding if you're overextended is to
figure your income and, excepting rent or mortgage, determine if you
can pay off your other borrowing comfortably in one year.  If so, you
are probably carrying a safe debt load.
   It's easy to know if your debt load is too heavy.  Here are some
signs you should look for:  you find it harder each month to make
ends meet.  Another sign is that you rely on overtime pay or
moonlighting to pay your bills.  Another sign of too much credit is
when you pay only the minimum on your charge accounts and
sometimes juggle payments, stalling one creditor to pay another.  One
other sign is when you struggle to save even small amounts and don't
have enough money saved to get you through emergencies such as a
cut in pay or repairs on appliances or cars.
   Credit can be a real asset or a detriment.  How you use credit
determines which it will be.  The following credit guidelines can help
you manage your money.
   Always decide how you will pay for an item before you buy it.
Don't use credit if it means you will still be paying for the item long
after it is used up or gone.  Remember:  credit costs money.  Ask
yourself if you would buy the item if you had to pay cash for it
instead of putting it on credit.
 
Always use comparison shopping and get the best buy for your   tkm long         
money.  Don't be a soft touch for sales people.  Credit is easily
available, and businesses urge people to use credit because people who
use credit may spend more.
   Buy only if you have a real need for the item.  Try to use credit
only for items that will increase in value after you pay for them.
Credit always costs more than paying cash, even in stores that offer
no-interest accounts, because prices may be slightly higher.  Credit is
more expensive now than it used to be, so shop carefully and use
credit only when necessary.
   Even if you're getting along fine now, don't take on additional
debts without calculating your ability to repay them.  If your mortgage
or rent payment takes more than twenty-five percent of your pay, a
debt load of twenty percent is probably too much.
   For more information and suggestions about home budgets, call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Sales Calendar. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3619
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3619, "Sales Calendar."
   Throughout the year, certain items routinely go on sale.  A thrifty
shopper plans ahead, if possible, and buys needed items when they go
on sale.  Seasonal sales may vary from one location to another, and
they may be influenced by supply and demand, but in general the
following list of items will give you some idea of good buys in a given
month.
   January:  January's sale items include Christmas trimmings, cards
and paper; appliances; bicycles; china and glassware; carpets and rugs;
TV sets, radios and stereos; and white sale items like blankets, sheets,
linens and towels.
   February:  In February, look for sales on Washington's and
Lincoln's birthdays and for Mardi Gras sales.  Other good buys may
include furniture, sportswear, used cars, curtains and drapes.
   March:  Featured sale items in March are luggage, ski equipment,
washing machines and clothes dryers, and spring and Easter specials.
   April:  Men's and boys' suits are good buys in April.  Other sale
items may include kitchen ranges, sleepwear, lingerie, home
improvement materials and after-Easter clothing specials.
   May:  In May, look for sales around Mother's Day and Memorial
Day.  TVs and tires may be on sale also.
   June:  June will have Father's Day specials and sales on building
supplies, fabrics, typewriters and hosiery.
   July:  Air conditioners, refrigerators and freezers are often good
buys in July.  Summer clothes, swimwear and Fourth of July sales
should be checked out.                           August:  August
buys might include current year cars, camping equipment, summer
clothing, furniture, coats and furs, lamps and houseware items.  Look
for white sales and back-to-school specials, too.
   September:  Current year cars are a good buy in September, too, as
are car batteries and accessories.  Fabrics and fall fashions may be on
sale also.
   October:  Columbus Day and Veterans' Day sales are held in
October.  Fall and winter sportswear and other fall fashions may be
good buys in October.
   November:  In November, look for Thanksgiving Day specials and
sales on used cars, women's dresses and coats, men's and boys' suits
and shirts, and children's clothes.
   December:  December's good buys may include women's coats and
shoes, men's shoes and end of the month sales on Christmas cards,
decorations and wrapping.
   These monthly suggestions will give you some idea of what to look
for, but check local advertisements for specific best buys in your area.

   For more information and suggestions about reducing your
household expenses and managing your budget, call the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Selecting an Apartment. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3620
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3620, "Selecting an Apartment."
   The first things you'll want to consider when you're looking for an
apartment are rent, costs of utilities and location.  You'll also need to
consider the design of the apartment since this can influence how long
you'll be satisfied with it.
   The number of bedrooms and the sizes of the bedrooms are
important, but only you know how much room you need.  Both the
number and the size of bedrooms will affect the amount of the rent.
   An apartment with two floors may seem more like a house because
there is more privacy when bedrooms are separated from the rest of
the apartment.  Entrances are usually private, and there may be more
than one entrance to a two-floor apartment.  One-floor apartment are
better for families who need to avoid climbing stairs or who prefer to
avoid frequent trips up and down stairs.
   The location of the apartment in the building or within the
complex can influence your satisfaction.  If you have young children,
you may prefer a ground floor location so your children may play
outdoors where you can see them.  An all-adult household may not
want to be near a play area or pool because of the noise.
   An apartment located between two others and on a lower floor may
have lower utility costs than an apartment located on an end of the
building or on top of the building.  The local utility company may be
able to tell you about the average bills for a particular address for
the preceding year so you'll have an idea about expenses. 
Some families, especially those with children, may want a dining                
area in the kitchen where the floor surface is easier to clean.  Others
want a separate dining room or a living-dining room combination.
   These suggestions may be helpful when you start looking for an
apartment:
   Try to see the apartment when it is furnished.  An empty
apartment looks deceivingly large.
   Take a tape measure with you and jot down measurements.  Notice
where windows and doors are located.  Make a sketch of the floor
plan and try to fit your furniture in different possible locations on
your drawing.  Be sure your furniture will fit the rooms and that it
will fit through the doors when you're moving in.
   Check closet space, other storage space and the kitchen counter.
   If there's only one bathroom, be sure it will accommodate your
family.
   Check the entry for size and location.  It should be convenient,
attractive and safe.
   Large windows with a pleasant view can add to your enjoyment,
but they may increase your utility bills and lessen your privacy.
   Try to visit the apartment in the evening or on a weekend when
most people will be home so you'll have an idea of how much sound is
transmitted between apartment.
   Ask the rental agent for details on wall and floor finishes.
   A balcony or patio is pleasant for outdoor cooking, growing plants
and relaxing, but its usefulness is limited if there is no privacy.  A
balcony can be hazardous if you have small children. 
Check the appliances to see if they meet your needs.  A                         
dishwasher, a clothes washer and dryer are important to some families.
Ask the rental agent about the hot water heater and how many
families it serves.  Turn on taps in the kitchen and the bathroom to
test water pressure.
   Check management policies carefully.  Read the lease before you
sign it.  Find out what is and what is not permitted and what the
management will or will not do.  Find out about painting of rooms;
hanging pictures; maintenance of grounds and other public spaces such
as laundry rooms; garbage collection; and the policy on pets.  Try to
talk with someone who lives in the building or complex.  If you have
children, visit the play area and talk with other parents.
   Getting settled in a new home takes time, planning and work as well as
money.  Pay attention to details beforehand and your satisfaction should be
increased after you move in.
   You can get more information about what to look for when you're looking
for a house or an apartment from the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Shopping for Credit. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3621
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3621,
"Shopping for Credit."
   When you shop for credit, look for the least expensive plan you
can get.  Select one you can pay off in a reasonable length of time
without straining the family budget too much.
   To compare costs for credit, first look at the A-P-R.  This is the
annual percentage rate, or the cost--in dollars--of one hundred dollars
if you borrow it for one year.  Federal law requires that all credit
contracts include the term "Annual Percentage Rate" in large print.
This number--a percentage--must be filled in on the contract before
you sign it.  The term A-P-R must be used in any public advertising
of credit terms.  It can be as low as 12 or 14 percent of what you
borrow or as high as 36 percent.
   Another term required by law to be in large print on installment
loan contracts is the "Total Finance Charge."  This is the total
amount, in dollars, you can expect to pay over the length of the
credit contract.  It might include the cost of checking your credit
record and credit insurance.
   Know what other items you are expected to pay for besides the
amount borrowed and the interest.  Credit life insurance is not
required by law, but it can be required by a lender.
   Because the amount of interest you pay for a loan depends on the
length of time you use that credit, you'll save money by paying off
the loan as soon as you can.  Look for a plan that lets you pay off
the loan as soon as you can, but doesn't penalize you for paying off
early.
   When you set up an installment plan, be realistic about the amount
you can pay each period.  Don't make payments so large that you
create financial pressure on the family budget.  If you use a credit
card, the annual percentage rate will be applied to your monthly
balance at 1 1/2 percent a month for your purchases.  A similar
amount can be for cash borrowed with the card.
   Interest will be less if the monthly interest rate is charged on the
balance after current payments are deducted.  Some creditors charge
interest on your balance before current payments are made, and others
charge on the average daily balance owed.  If your plan charges on
the average daily balance, you will pay less interest if you make
payments as soon as you can and keep the daily balance as low as
possible.
   For more information about money management and home budgeting
or for a free pamphlet called "Credit Cards--30 Days to Reality," call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Small Claims Courts. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3622
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3622, "Small Claims Courts."
   If you have a problem involving a relatively small sum of money,
small claims court may be able to help you solve it without hiring a
lawyer.  Small claims courts are courts of limited authority which use
simplified procedures so that a citizen can sue by stating his or her
position to the Clerk of Court or by mailing a letter to the clerk of
court.  This allows you to sue on your own behalf.  Of course you
may still want to ask a lawyer to file suit for you in a small claims
court.
   Suits must be filed in the court with jurisdiction in the area where
the person or firm you want to sue lives or does business.  To locate
the court, call the clerk of court or justice of the peace where the
person you are suing lives.  At this time, ask for the filing fee,
usually a small amount.  Court costs are usually, but not always,
assessed against the losing party, so if you file suit and accept an
out-of-court settlement and drop the suit, you'll have to pay the
court costs.
   If you're preparing to sue, keep all notes, messages, bills, receipts,
contracts, leases and papers that may become evidence to support your
claim.  Sometimes you can get the potential defendant to correct or
repair the damage before you sue.  One way to do this is to send a
letter by registered mail demanding that he take immediate action to
repair or correct the matter.  Keep a copy of this letter, because it
may be useful later in court to show that you made a good faith
attempt to get the defendant to repair the injury he caused.  If you
think the defendant will leave the area if he finds you might sue, just
file suit and let the "service of process" by the court be his notice
that he is being sued. 
At the trial, there is no jury.  The judge or justice of the peace              
will try the case and decide who wins and how much money, if any,
will be awarded. The procedure is usually informal.
   Go to the court at the time you are told to appear, wait for the
clerk to call your case, then enter the court or the judge's chambers
where the trial is to be held.  You present your case first, then the
person you are suing will present his.  You may be allowed to present
evidence to disprove the case of the person or firm you are suing.
   The judge won't expect you to act like Perry Mason.  Just tell
your side of the story in a straightforward manner.  Explain why you
think that the defendant owes you money or why the firm has failed
to live up to its commitment.  Bring your evidence and witnesses if
you have any.  If you win, the judgment of the court becomes a legal
obligation but you may have to take further action to collect.  The
defendant can also appeal, and you would have to wait for this
decision before trying to collect.
   For information on a wide range of subjects within the areas of
horticulture and home economics, call the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Teaching Children to Use Money. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  8/5/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 3623
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3623,
"Teaching Children to Use Money."
   Today everyone spends more money to live and families depend on
money more than ever before.  Because family finances are becoming
more and more complicated, even young children should learn
something about money management.
   Regardless of your child's age, you are the primary teacher about
money matters.  Your attitude will influence the attitudes of your
children.  Whatever significance money has to you...as a parent--
whether it's anxiety or pleasure--your children will pick up on it.
Conveying healthy attitudes about money requires an example of using
money without heavy emotional attachments.  Unfortunately, money is
used in families as a symbol of love, power or approval.
   Teaching money management to children can be fun. The experience
can benefit the relationship between parent and child, too.  If you
gear your money management lessons to the child's needs, interests,
abilities and level of understanding, you'll be successful in teaching
money concepts.  Children can learn new concepts about money and
spending if they're taught by the use of examples, reintroduced on
different occasions and in different situations, and if they're allowed
to practice the concepts.
   Here are some of the most important basic concepts of money and
its use:
   --Money or its substitutes such as credit cards are only a medium
of exchange.  We exchange money for goods and services.
   --We must learn to spend before we can learn to save.  Let your
child pay for items in the store.
   --Savings is just deferred spending.  We usually save for a specific
purpose or item.  Let your child learn to save for something he really
wants, something that doesn't require too long a savings time.
   --Money resources are nearly always limited.  Teach your child how
to choose with his limited funds from among all the many things he or
she wants.
   Most family economists and child development experts believe that
allowances geared to the age and needs of a child can help him learn
to make decisions and how to manage money at an early age.
   For more information and suggestions about managing your family's
money, call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
What is Inflation? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3624
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3624, "What is Inflation?"
   Inflation is defined as a sustained or long-term tendency for prices
of goods and services to rise.  Not all price increases are inflationary,
however.  Prices may rise in the short term because of a change in
the supply and demand.  For example, there may be an abundant
harvest of a particular crop one year because of excellent growing
conditions and the next year may be a poor year for the same crop.
This situation may cause prices to change, but the changes may even
out over a period of time and not be inflationary.
   To most people, inflation means that over a period of time, their
dollars buy less.  We feel the effects of a shrinking dollar when our
incomes fail to keep pace with the rise in prices.
   The rule of 72 is a convenient means of measuring the impact of
inflation.  Simply divide the inflation rate into 72 to find out how
long it will take a dollar to be worth half its present value in terms
of real purchasing power.  For example:  An inflation rate of 12
percent means that the worth of each dollar will be reduced to 50
cents in only 6 years.  Even a 6 percent inflation rate halves the
purchasing power of each dollar every 12 years.
   Many people associate inflation with everything bad that is
happening to themselves and the economy.  In this case, inflation
affects morale, our confidence in ourselves and our attitudes toward
others.  These attitudes are often in conflict.
 
For instance:  As a worker, you may want to receive higher wages   dmsry,       
but at the same time want to buy goods and services at low prices.
Those who produce the goods and services you want to buy at low
prices want just the opposite -- high prices for their products.
   The push to get more and contribute less may be reflected in a
lowered worker productivity.  This adds to inflation.  Unproductive
workers don't help our economy compete with countries that are more
productive.  As a worker, you can fight inflation by being the best
worker that you can be.  As a consumer, you can cope with inflation
by looking for ways to reduce your spending.
   For more information about inflation call TeleTips and ask for
program number 3605, "Deflate Inflation," or call the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Where to Get Consumer Information. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3625
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3625, "Where to Get Consumer Information."
   Government agencies are limited in what they can do to protect
the public.  It's up to each consumer to take the responsibility for
being informed and for shopping carefully.
   To help consumers, the United States Government Printing Office
publishes a Consumers Information Catalog four times each year.  The
catalog lists booklets from almost 30 federal agencies on topics such
as how to save money, health care, or the cost of owning and
operating a car.  Many of the booklets are free, but there is a user
fee of one dollar for processing an order of two or more free titles.
You can order the Consumers Information Catalog from The Consumer
Information Center, Pueblo, Colorado 81009.  Check with your library
for magazines and other publications containing consumer information.
   Ask your neighbors, co-workers and relatives about similar
purchases they may have made.  Ask them about features they liked or
disliked and ask them about experiences they have had with various
dealers.  Compare stores, catalogs and agencies.  Shop at least two or
three places, or talk to two or three salesmen before you buy, if
possible.  Ask questions and compare prices.  Look for a business or
salesman with a good reputation.
   Many companies or agencies have written information promoting
their products and services.  Take time to read it, and pay careful
attention to warranties before you buy.  A warranty will tell you what
the manufacturer will do for you if something goes wrong with the
product or service. 
Many companies have established offices or divisions of consumer                
information to help customers.  Some have toll-free 800 numbers that
consumers can call for information.  The toll-free number may be
listed on the label or package of the product.  Also, the telephone
company has a list of 800 numbers.  Dial 1-800-555-1212 to use this
directory service.
   The Better Business Bureau is another source of help for
consumers.  These non-profit organizations are sponsored by private
businesses.  They offer a variety of services.  Better Business Bureaus
do not judge or rate individual products or brands, and they do not
handle complaints about the prices of goods and services.  They do
not give legal advice either.
   Here's what the Better Business Bureaus can do:  They can give
general information on products and services, reliability reports and
background information on local businesses and organizations.  They
may or may not tell you the nature of a complaint, but they will tell
you if a complaint has been registered.  In New Orleans, the Better
Business Bureau is located at 301 Camp Street, Suite 403.  The phone
number is 504-581-6222.
   Before you buy, analyze your needs.  For the most part, products
on the market do what they are designed to do.  Your choice of brand
and price will probably depend on your personal preference and your
individual need rather than on actual differences in function and
quality among various products.
   If something goes wrong with a product, the first thing you need
to do is to go back to the point of purchase and discuss the matter
calmly.  Always keep sales receipts so that you have a record of your
purchase.  If the salesperson isn't helpful, ask for the manager or
supervisor.  Repeat your complaint.  About 88 percent of all consumer
complaints are resolved at this level.  Chances are, yours will be, too.
   If you are not satisfied, write a letter to the company if the
product is a national brand or the company operates nationwide.  Keep
a copy for your records.  If the company fails to respond
satisfactorily to your complaint, call the Governor's Office of
Consumer Protection.  The phone number is 800-272-8478.  If you're
not sure of the state office or agency you need to call, you can call
the Governor's tie-line for help.  The toll-free number of the
Governor's Tie-line is 800-272-9868.  The person answering the phone
will direct you to the proper agency or person.
   Don't forget, you can also get free information on a variety of
consumer-related topics from the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Women and Credit. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3626
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3626,
"Women and Credit."
   Almost every American has at least one credit card.  Women can
now get credit in their own names simply by deciding on a purchase
and asking for credit.
   The law says that creditors may not discriminate against anyone
because of sex or marital status.  This means that you can't be denied
a loan because you are a woman, or single or married.
   One helpful step in establishing credit is to open a savings or
checking account in your own name.  This won't give you credit, but
creditors often check accounts to see if you have money and know
how to manage it.
   Since passage of the Equal Credit Opportunity Act, a woman who
qualifies for credit now has the legal right to put the account in her
name.  Married women may use their maiden names if they wish.  All
new credit accounts used jointly by husbands and wives must be filed
by creditors and credit bureaus in the names of both spouses.
   A married woman with her own income may want to apply for
separate accounts for which she alone will be responsible.  This will
show creditors that she has been granted credit only on her own
record of income and prompt payments.
   In a community property state like Louisiana, creditors may
consider credit history information about your husband even when you
apply for a separate account.  Laws in community property states give
both spouses control over the property they hold together.  Creditors
will check your husband's finances to make sure your joint assets can
cover your new credit obligations.               Even if you are
married and even though you live in a community property state, you
need to make sure that your local credit bureau has credit history
information in a separate file under your name.  If you move from
Louisiana, you may want to open an individual account based only on
your credit history.
   When using credit, resist the temptation to overbuy.  Don't get in
debt beyond your ability to repay.  Remember how much money you
have and how much credit you can afford.  Use your credit wisely.
   Pay your credit accounts when they are due, if at all possible.
This builds your credit reputation.  If unexpected expenses or illness
delays your payment, contact the creditor promptly and discuss the
situation.  In most cases, he will extend payment dates or adjust
monthly installments to help you.
   For more information about money management and budgeting, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Supermarket Scanners. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3627
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3627, "Supermarket Scanners."
   Another marvel of computer technology has found its way into our
lives through our supermarkets.  It's the universal product code (or
UPC) scanning system, and it's designed to make shopping quicker,
easier and more pleasant.
   Since the scanning system was introduced in 1974, it has grown
rapidly and is now in use in about one-fourth of the supermarkets.
The UPC consists of an in-store computer linked to a laser scanner
and an electronic cash register.
   The key to scanning is the universal products code (UPC), which is
a bar code found on most items -- in fact, everything from magazines
to food.  The code on each item is passed over a glass-covered slot in
the checkout counter, where a laser scanner reads the code and
transmits the information to an in-store computer.  The price
previously entered into the computer for that item then flashes on the
visual display unit of the cash register and is, at the same time,
printed on the receipt tape.
   The first five numbers of the code designate the manufacturer, and
the next five numbers tell what the specific product is.  The retailer
may also make UPC labels for products not coded by the manufacturer.
You benefit from the scanners because you get speedier checkouts and
more detailed receipts which state not only the price of each item
bought but also the brand name and size.  You can use these receipts
to make long-term or short-term price comparisons. 
The receipts also enable you to compare prices at different stores              
and prices of different sizes and brands.  This is important, because
about one-fourth of the money spent at grocery stores is spent on
items that aren't even food.  These scanner receipts can help you see
exactly how much you spend on unnecessary items as well as what you
spend on products for household operation.
   Receipts can also help you determine if a balanced diet is being
purchased for your family.  You can compare the information on your
tape with U. S. Department of Agriculture food plans and food
expenditure calculations for families similar in size and age to yours.
   These scanners also lessen the likelihood of human error and may
result in lower prices when retailers pass cost savings on to
consumers.  The retailer benefits by increased labor productivity,
reduced labor costs, more accurate inventory control, better tracking
of customer and product flow, and fewer cashier errors.
   More and more supermarkets will add scanners, so it's important
that you to learn to use the information you receive on the tapes
from these scanners
   If you would like to have more information about food buying and
preparation, call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Controlling Your Finances While Unemployed. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3628
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3628, "Controlling Your Finances While Unemployed."
   Losing a job is frightening, but you can still control your financial
affairs if you plan carefully and use money-stretching tips while you're
looking for a job.
   The first crisis of unemployment is a financial one.  There will still
be bills to pay.  Find out immediately about any benefits you may be
eligible for, such as state unemployment or food stamps.  If you're not
able to pay your bills, tell your creditors about your situation.  Most
are willing to extend payments or help you work out a schedule to pay
your debts.  Honesty is the best policy.
   If you feel overwhelmed by your financial situation, talk to your
banker or go to a nonprofit credit counseling agency for help.  It's
often harder to cope with the stress of being unemployed than it is to
make ends meet, especially if yours is a two-income household.  If
you're out of work for a long time, you may have feelings of self-
doubt to deal with.
   Talk to your family about your financial situation and involve them
in decisions about spending.  One of the most difficult things about
being unemployed is realizing that you may have to lower your
standard of living.  Don't pretend that nothing has happened.
   See how much your family owes by adding what you own and
subtracting what you owe.  This is your net worth.  You may have
assets that can be converted to cash.  To balance your income and
outgo, you may know exactly how much money you have coming in and
how it is spent.  Use your check stubs and receipts to estimate what
you spend on flexible expenses.  Evaluate these expenditures and make
any necessary changes. 
Anticipate upcoming big bills such as insurance payments and plan               
ways to pay for them.  Be sure your family is covered by adequate
life and health insurance while you aren't working.  You may be able
to apply for individual insurance with the company your employer
used.
   Use your savings or emergency funds sparingly.  Try not to borrow
money while you're unemployed.  It always costs money to borrow.
Let your financial institution advise you about withdrawing any large
sums from savings or about taking out a loan.  They may be able to
help you save money or keep you from losing all the interest from
your savings.
   For more information and suggestions about managing your money,
call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Flood Insurance 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3629
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3629, "Flood Insurance".
   If you're a homeowner in an area that's subject to flooding, you
may need flood insurance.  Many homeowners discover too late that
ordinary homeowners insurance does not cover damage from rising
waters.
   Water damage from flooding, rising surface waters, waves, sewers
or drains, and from water seeping from below ground are specifically
excluded from homeowner policy coverage.
   To cover rising water damage, properties must be covered by a
special federal flood insurance program policy.  You can get this type
of coverage through any property and casualty agent or broker
licensed to do business in Louisiana.  Homeowners in many
communities in Louisiana are eligible to purchase flood insurance.
Your local agent can tell you if your community is participating in
this flood program.
   To determine your individual need for flood insurance, contact your
your building permit officer who will be able to tell you if your
property lies in a flood prone area.  If you don't know the name of
your building permit officer,  the mayor or local police jury can help
you find it.
        If you're in a flood prone area, you should seriously consider
purchasing flood insurance. Insurance rates are based on the likelihood
of your property being affected by flooding.  The insurance covers
both the property and its contents up to the limits of the policy that
is purchased.
   Also, if you're considering the purchase of any property, be sure to
investigate the flood proneness of the area where the property is
located.
   For more information on flood and homeowners insurance, contact
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Water Filters. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3705
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3705, "Water Filters."
        Americans are becoming increasingly concerned with the
quality of their water.  Many people have turned to activated-carbon
water filters and purifiers to upgrade their drinking water, rather than
buying bottled water.
   Activated-carbon filters can effectively remove many objectionable
tastes and odors.  They can also help clear sediments from tap water
and remove organic chemicals such as pesticides and chloroform -- a
common contaminant which is a suspected carcinogen.
   The under-sink filters are the larger and generally more effective,
yet more expensive type.  They do a good job of removing chlorine --
 a major source of bad taste in water.
   The units which use granular carbon -- as opposed to powder-in-
pad -- do a better job of permanently removing chloroform.  The
powdered carbon types have been known to re-deposit previously
absorbed chloroform back into the water after a certain point of use.
   Units with hard plastic sides force water to travel the length of
the filter, insuring longer contact with the filter.  The longer the
contact with the filter, the more effective the filtration.
   Some units also slow down the water flow rate to improve
filtration and extend the life of the filter cartridge.  These come with
a separate faucet and tubing to connect to your cold water supply
line.
   Faucet or sink-mounted filters are generally smaller, easier to
install, and cheaper than the under-sink variety.  But they generally
have a lower useful flow rate than most of the under-sink units and
their filter lifetime is shorter.
   You can use pour-through portable filters when you're traveling, as
long as the water you start with is suitable for drinking.  Both the
electric models and those which work like a drip coffee maker can be
as effective as faucet mounted filters.
        If you're only concerned with suspended sediment in your
water, you need a fiber filter, rather than a carbon filter -- which
clogs quickly.
        Most manufacturers of home-use filters claim only that their
products improve the taste and odor of water.  A few claim that their
products will remove toxic chemicals.  But one thing a water filter
will not remove is bacteria.  That's a job for a water purifier.  In
fact, there is some concern that wet carbon in filters can make a
good breeding ground for bacteria, particularly when the filter is not
used for a while and after it has treated a large quantity of water.
        In addition, activated carbon filters won't remedy hard water
_-water-softening devices are needed for this.  The filters will remove
rust particles, but they have little effect on dissolved metals and
hydrogen sulfide. They won't remove chlorides, fluorides or nitrates
either.  For this, a reverse osmosis unit or ion exchange device is
needed.
        Whatever choice you make -- how you use and maintain your
filter is essential to its good performance and safety.
        You should flush out the filter before the first use of the
day.  Open the faucet wide and let the water run at least thirty
seconds for an under-sink model and at least ten seconds for a sink-
mounted filter.  When you install a new cartridge, flush for several
minutes to remove fine carbon particles.
   You should change filters regularly.  A heavily used filter is more
likely to contain high bacterial levels and to discharge organic
chemicals previously trapped.  An exhausted filter is useless.
Don't filter hot water.  A filter on the faucet that passes hot water
will not remove contaminants very well and hot water may liberate
chemicals previously trapped.  An exhausted filter is useless.
        Use the slowest flow rate you can tolerate.  The longer the
water is in contact with the filter, the more impurities the carbon can
attract and the cleaner the water will be.
        After you install a new cartridge, remember to circle the date
on your calendar so that you will know when to replace it.
   For more information on water filters, contact your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Water Hardness. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3710
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3710, "Water Hardness."
   Hardness in water could be a problem for your laundry.  The
hardness minerals interfere with the cleaning action of soaps and
detergents.  It's harder to achieve good laundry results with water
that contains the calcium or magnesium ions that contribute to water
hardness.  Soils on fabrics can also add to the hardness of your wash
water.
   If you have problems with water hardness when washing, add more
detergent.  Some of the detergent will be used to tie up the hardness
ions that soften the water before the remaining detergent can do the
cleaning.
        When non-phosphate detergents containing carbonate builders
tie up the hardness ions, a white precipitate -- calcium and magnesium
carbonate -- forms and may give clothes white streaks.  It may also
build up in the washer.
   If you use soap in hard water, soap curd may form -- leaving
streaks and deposits or grease balls on your clothes.  You can remove
soap curd by soaking fabrics in a solution of warm water and a
packaged non-precipitating water softener or conditioner, such as
Calgon.  Just follow the package directions for proper usage.
   Synthetic detergents generally work best when laundering in hard
water.  Phosphates in synthetic detergents  help soften the water for
satisfactory results.  Hard water can also be softened mechanically,
after which good results can be achieved with most laundry products.
   For more information on water hardness, contact the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Water Softeners. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3711
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3711, "Water Softeners."
   You can soften water in your home automatically with caution
exchange--
 mechanical water softeners -- or with packaged water softeners.
   If you use the cation exchange softener the water is soft when it
comes from the tap -- no measuring of a packaged softener is required
_- and both the wash and rinse water are soft.  In addition, the
alkalinity of the water is not increased as it would be with a
packaged softener.  Water that has been softened by the cation
exchange still contains dissolved minerals, but there is no calcium or
magnesium present.
   Mechanical water softeners require an initial investment and small
operating cost.  In many areas it is possible to rent equipment for a
small monthly charge, thus avoiding the initial investment.  Long-term
savings, resulting from reduced use of cleaning supplies and from
longer life of fabrics and water-using equipment, may offset the cost
of buying or renting water softening equipment.
   Cation exchange water softeners must be regenerated periodically
to provide a continuous supply of soft water.  This may be done
manually or with partially automatic or fully automatic equipment.
The fully automatic regeneration requires no attention from the owner
_- other than keeping the storage tank which is exchanged periodically
by the supplier.
   If you're going to use a packaged water softener, you can choose
from two types -- precipitating and non-precipitating.  The
precipitating softeners remove hardness by forming a precipitate -- an
undissolved solid.  They are cheap, but not very effective.  Water
softened with precipitation softeners is alkaline and cloudy.  The
precipitate becomes trapped in laundry items, making them harsh and
stiff.
   Non-precipitating packaged softeners control hardness by forming a
stable soluble compound.  Most softeners of this type can re-dissolve
soap curd and grease balls that have previously formed.
   In order to use packaged softeners effectively, the hardness and
quantity of water used should be known so that the proper amount of
softener can be measured and added to the water.  You should follow
the package directions to find out the quantity.
   Since packaged softeners can not soften water before it comes from
the tap, the softener must be added each time water is used.  For
example, it should be added to both the wash cycle and rinse cycle
when washing.
   For more information on water softeners, contact your parish office
of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Using Chinese Cabbage. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3175
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3175, "Using Chinese Cabbage."
   Chinese cabbage is a relatively new vegetable in Louisiana.  You
can use it instead of lettuce for delicious, inexpensive salads.  Most
varieties have   a long or oval-shaped head with a crisp, firm inside.
The leaves, which are slightly wrinkled, are a lighter, brighter green
than the leaves of regular cabbage.  The leaves look a lot like lettuce,
and their mild flavor tastes more like lettuce than cabbage.  The
broad, white midrib is crisp and has a nice flavor, too.
   To make a salad with Chinese cabbage, separate the cabbage leaf
by leaf. Then, wash, drain and refrigerate it to make it crisp.
Chinese cabbage won't turn brown like lettuce does.  Tear the leaves
and chop the tender, white midrib to add extra crispness and flavor to
your salad.  Chinese cabbage can also be combined with lettuce or
other salad greens, such as fresh spinach, and with other fresh
vegetables including green onions, carrots, celery, tomato and
marinated avocado.
   Top your salad with your favorite salad dressing or combine oil and
vinegar and add parmesan cheese, hard-cooked egg and other
seasonings.  An old-fashioned bacon dressing for wilted salad is
delicious on salads made with Chinese cabbage.  You can also
substitute Chinese cabbage for lettuce on hamburgers and sandwiches
and use it to garnish a salad plate.  The white midrib can be used to
make relish sticks which add color and flavor to a relish tray.  
Chinese cabbage, often used in Chinese recipes, is good when it is              
shredded and cooked, too.  Cook the white midrib for a few minutes
and add the leaf blades near the end of cooking time.  Nutritionally,
Chinese cabbage is a fairly good source of vitamin C and it's low in
calories, too.
   For more information and suggestions about cooking vegetables or
for a free pamphlet called "Chinese Cabbage," call the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Air Conditioning Maintenance. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 4100
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
4100, "Air Conditioning Maintenance."
   One good way to reduce your utility bill is to make sure your air
conditioning system receives proper maintenance.  It's a good
investment to have your air conditioner thoroughly serviced by a
professional each year.  The service representative should check the
condenser coils, the evaporator coils, the blower wheel, the filter, the
freon charge, the lubrication and pulleys, the condensate system, the
controls, and the electrical contacts.  If any of the equipment is dirty
or worn out, it should be cleaned or replaced.
   Stopped-up coils can lower efficiency, shorten the life of the
compressor and increase your energy bill.
   You should check your filter at least once a month and change it
if it's dirty.  Clean filters trap lint and dust, preventing your inside
coils from becoming clogged.
   A blower wheel that's covered with lint and dust will put out
fifteen to twenty percent less air.  A dirty blower wheel also usually
indicates dirty inside coils.
   Duct leaks can cost you a lot of money.  A supply side leak means
that conditioned air is going outside, while a leak on the return side
causes hot, unfiltered attic air to be drawn into the air conditioner.
This puts an extra load on the unit and fouls up the coils.  You
should inspect ducts regularly for leaks and repair them with high
quality material.  If insulation is skimpy, add more.  Your service
representative should adjust your freon charge to the manufacturer's
specifications to reduce energy consumption and insure proper
performance by the unit.
   In addition to annual servicing, there are other things you can do
to make sure your air conditioner functions properly.
   Keep plant foliage trimmed back two feet on each side of your
outside unit, and at least five feet from the top.  Plant foliage
restricts air circulation through the outside coils.
   Cut the grass around the outside unit when your air conditioner is
turned off, making sure that the mower throws the grass clippings
away from the coils.
   Check your clothes dryer vents, making sure that they don't
exhaust directly into the outside coils.  You should provide an
extension for the vent to direct exhaust air away from the outside
unit.  Lint stops up the outside coils and the hot air reduces its
efficiency.
   For more information on air conditioning maintenance, contact the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Insulation--How Much And What Kind. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 4105
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
4105, "Insulation--How Much And What Kind."
   Before you invest in insulation, be sure you do all the less
expensive things that reduce energy usage first.  These include --
caulking, weatherstripping, installing electric outlet foam gaskets, and
sealing holes for plumbing to reduce air infiltration.  You also need to
check the ductwork in your attic for leaks, insulate your water heater,
install shower flow restrictors, and have your heating and cooling
systems thoroughly serviced and cleaned.
   Once you have completed these steps insulate any surfaces that
separate heated or conditioned air from the outside.  If all surfaces
have some insulation, and you're ready to add more, begin with the
attic.  Adding extra insulation over your ceilings will probably bring
the greatest return on the investment.
   Insulation power is measured by what's called its "R-value."  The
"R" stands for "resistance" to the flow of heat.  Every package of
home insulation, by law, must display its R-value rating.  So when you
shop for insulation, compare price per R-value, not inches.  For
example, loose-fill fiberglass has an R-value of about 2.3 per inch,
while urethane foam boards have an R-value of 5.9 per inch.  You
would need more than two and one-half inches of loose fill fiberglass
to give you the same insulating power as one inch of urethane foam
board.  You can determine the best buy by comparing the price of
getting the total R-value that you want.
   The amount of insulation you need depends on the climate where
you live.  For most of Louisiana, the Cooperative Extension Service
recommends R-26 to 30 for ceilings, R-19 for walls, and R-13 to 19
under the floor or if your home is built on a slab, R-8 of rigid
insulation around the perimeter of the slab. In New Orleans, R-13 in
the walls and R-11 under the floor is adequate.
   When you're installing insulation, be sure that vents in eaves and
crawl spaces are not blocked.  Also keep insulation away from the
tops and sides of recessed light fixtures.  If you handle fibrous
insulation yourself, wear protective clothing, gloves, goggles and a
dust mask.
   The type of insulation you need depends on where it's going to be
used.  You can use batts and blankets in unfinished areas -- such as
in the attic, under the floor and in open side walls.  Batts and
blankets are fire resistant, relatively inexpensive and easy for you to
install.
   Loose-fill insulation is suitable for finished and unfinished areas.
It can be poured into place between exposed floor joints or blown into
finished wall or floor cavities.  Any loose-fill materials may settle in
time, thus lowering its R-value.  The risk of fire from loose-fill
insulation is remote, except for that insulation made of cellulose.
   Liquid foam can be installed in finished walls by specialized
contractors.  Urethane foam is expensive but has a high R-value.
Urea formaldehyde or "U-F" foams can release formaldehyde vapors --
 especially during hot, humid weather.  It can also deteriorate when
exposed to light or open air.
   Rigid boards are best suited for exterior wall sheathing and the
floor slab perimeter, since they don't shrink or settle.  You can also
add them to finished walls.  However, plastic foam boards are
combustible and must be covered with a fire retardant material.
   For more information on insulation, contact the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Laundry, Saving Energy. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 4108
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
4108, "Laundry, Saving Energy."
   A good way to conserve energy when using an automatic washer is
to select a cold water rinse.  Rinsing in cold water is adequate for all
types of wash cycles.
   When you're laundering washable woolens, bright colors and lightly
soiled items, select a cold water wash.  Since cold water does not
clean clothes as well as hot or warm water, it may be necessary to
pretreat stained or soiled areas of your clothes when using cold water.
   Besides washing in cold water, there are other steps you can follow
to help conserve energy.
   You can adjust the water level to the size of your wash load, but
do not overload the washer in an effort to save water.  Your clothes
will look better if you use a lower water level for a small load of
garments, similar in color and fabric type.  Don't mix clothes of
different colors to make a full load. If you mix colors, the dyes may
transfer from one color to the other.
   You can save energy by keeping the lint filter clean on the dryer.
A dirty lint filter will prevent airflow and slow the drying process.
   Do not overload or underload your dryer.  An average size load of
like weight items drys most efficiently.  Also, avoid over drying your
clothes.  This wastes energy and may cause items to shrink and
wrinkle.
   When your clothes are dry remove them as soon as possible.  If
they rest in the dryer after the tumbling stops they will become
wrinkled.  On a clear day dry your clothes outside and let nature help
you save energy.
   If you're buying new laundry equipment, look for energy-efficient
models.
   For more information about home laundry, contact the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                                       ###
-End-
-Title-
Weatherstripping. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 4110
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
4110, "Weatherstripping."
   Weatherstripping is a cost-effective way of improving the energy
efficiency of your home.  The different types of weatherstripping vary
in cost, durability, ease of installation and invisibility.
   The longest lasting type of weatherstripping is tension strips, both
metal and plastic.  Tension strips are relatively inexpensive and can be
used for nearly any type of door and window joint, including that
difficult spot where the two sashes of a double-hung window meet.
However, tension strips cannot fill irregular gaps.  Plastic self-
adhesive tension strips are easier to install than metal ones, and are
almost as durable.
   You can use reinforced strips and tubular gaskets with all types of
doors and windows.  Their major drawback is their visibility, since
they are attached directly to the frame.  Vinyl reinforced strips are
quite durable.  Reinforced felt and foam strips and tubular gaskets will
last several years.  The foam strips and gaskets will fill gaps in
irregular surfaces -- whereas, the vinyl and felt strips will not.  The
vinyl and foam reinforced strips cost about the same as tension strips.
Felt strips and lower quality gaskets are less expensive.
   You can install self-adhesive foams quickly and easily.  They are
not visible under window sashes and in door jambs, and can fill gaps
in irregular surfaces -- but self-adhesive foams don't always stick
well.  It's best to use these foams where they will be held in place by
compression.  Self-adhesive foams should not be placed between sliding
parts.  They are subject to abrasion and may be difficult to remove
when worn.  They vary widely in price and durability. The open cell
polyurethane foam and sponge foams may not last long.  The closed
cell vinyl foam and E-P-D-M rubber foams both last for several years,
but the vinyl is much less expensive.
   You can use nonreinforced felt strips much like nonreinforced foam
strips.  Felt strips are more resistant to abrasion than foam strips,
and will last several years.  But they absorb water and should only be
used where they dry quickly.  Felt strips are inexpensive and can be
easily installed with a staple gun, using rust-proof staples.  However,
they can not fill gaps in irregular surfaces.
   A new type of weatherstripping is a magnetic gasket which can be
used with metal insulated doors.  It forms a tight seal like the seal on
modern refrigerator doors.
   Special weatherstripping is used to seal large gaps at the bottom of
a door.  You can use door sweeps, door bottoms or thresholds.
   Door sweeps attach to the inside face of a door that swings in or
to the outside of a door which swings out.  They work well and are
easy to install.  If you have deep carpeting, automatic door sweeps
which raise when the door is opened are available.
   Door bottoms attach to the bottom of a door to fill the gap
between the door and the threshold.  Two types can be used.  Those
with an "L" or "U" shaped channel are more visible, but easier to
install.  Those that attach to the bottom edge of the door are less
visible, but you must remove the door to install them.
   Thresholds with a vinyl or rubber gasket work well.  Their only
drawback is that their gaskets wear down quickly if the doorway is
used constantly.
   For more information on weatherstripping or for a free pamphlet
called "New Home Construction: Weatherstripping and Caulking",
contact the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
What is 4-H. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  8/23/83 (Smith)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 4501
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
4501, "What is 4-H."
   The 4-H Club is a worldwide organization for youth which is active
in every parish in Louisiana.  For a long time, 4-H appealed mostly to
young people in rural areas who worked on farm-related projects.
   But, over the years, 4-H has changed.  More projects have been
added to include such subjects as photography, dog care, pet care, arts
and crafts, bicycling, public speaking, automotive are and many
others...50 in all.  So, no matter where you live you you're likely to
find something in 4-H you're interested in.
   4-H is open to anyone between the ages of 9 and 19 and there are
a number of ways you can join...in school clubs, community clubs,
special interest groups, school enrichment groups, project clubs or you
can even be a member at large.
   As a 4-H Club member you learn to keep written records and make
presentations on your projects.  You also have the opportunity to
compete in contests on the local and state level.  And, depending on
your project, you may have the chance to win trips to Florida,
Chicago, Washington, D.C., and other places.  But, perhaps best of all,
you meet people who are interested in the same things you're
interested in.
   The 4-H Club is sponsored in Louisiana by the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service which has professional 4-H Club agents
in every parish in the state.  If you're interested in learning more
about 4-H, call the agent in your parish.  He or she will give you all
the details.  Here's the number to call...


-End-
-Title-
Extension Homemakers Club. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                              TeleTip 4601
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
4601, "Extension Homemakers Club."
   If you're a homemaker interested in learning new ideas and
improving the quality of your life and that of your family and your
community, you should consider joining an Extension Homemakers Club,
or starting one in your neighborhood.
   The Extension Homemakers Club is a voluntary, non-profit
educational organization which helps people identify and solve family
and community problems.
   You will serve as a liaison to the community, transmitting vital
information provided by the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
   As an Extension homemaker, you will become a member of several
groups...the local Homemakers Club, the parish Extension Homemakers
Council, the state council and the national council, which is affiliated
with Country Women's Council and Associated Country Women of the
World.
   In your local club, you will gain new knowledge and skills that
improve the quality of life for yourself and your family.
   Practical demonstrations and discussions are important parts of the
club's meetings.  You will discuss the important local needs and
interests of the community, then plan programs with the assistance of
an Extension home economist.
   As a member of a homemakers club, you'll gain new knowledge and
improve practices and skills in nutrition and health, family money
management, home furnishings and housing, family relations and youth
development, energy conservation, clothing and textiles, cultural arts,
citizenship, and safety and emergency preparedness.




   Membership in an Extension Homemakers Club is open to everyone.
Although the membership is predominantly women, some fathers who
are raising children alone are finding solutions to their homemaking
problems in these clubs.
   Meetings are held at least once a month and dues, which are
established by the local club, are generally low.
   If you're interested in joining an Extension Homemakers Club or
starting one in your community or neighborhood, you should talk to
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service or ask for a free pamphlet titled "The Extension
Homemakers Council."  Here's the number to call.

###
-End-
-Title-
Growing requirements for African Violets. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1001
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1001,
"Growing requirements for African Violets."
   Unquestionably, the African violet is the favorite flowering house
plant in America.  It's popular because it's easy to propagate and it
blooms constantly throughout the year...without a rest period.
   African violets will flower all year...but they need the right amount
of light to do it.  If they don't get enough light, their leaves become
thin and they develop long stems.  Even when they don't get enough
light their color is fairly normal...and if they bloom at all it won't be
very much.
   But...you can give them too much light, too.  If the light is too
intense, the growth is less vigorous and more compact than under
normal conditions.  Leaves become pale or yellowish green.  Often the
leaves show darker areas where they have been shaded by other
leaves.  Flowering may continue, but it will be decreased.
   African violets can be grown under artificial light.  You can put
two forty-watt fluorescent tubes with reflectors about twelve to
eighteen inches above the tops of the plants and you leave them on
about twelve to fifteen hours a day.
   Night temperatures for African violets should be between 65 and 70
degrees.  The temperature during the day should about ten to fifteen
degrees warmer than the night temperatures.
   If the plants are exposed to extremely cold temperatures, the
leaves will first turn dark, then they'll appear watersoaked...then
they'll finally die.
 
The soil used for growing african violets should be loose and   henn0t be       
porous so that it drains well.  A good mixture may contain two parts
peat moss, one part coarse perlite and one part vermiculite.  Add one
tablespoon of dolomitic limestone to each gallon of this mix to control
acidity.
   You will need to set a definite schedule for watering your African
violets.  How much water they get depends on the conditions under
which they are growing.  Generally, you will need to water the plants
when the soil surface feels dry...but before it becomes hard or before
the plants begin to wilt.  Put enough water on them each time to
thoroughly saturate the soil.  Throw away the excess water that drains
through the bottom of the pot.
   You should put small plants in a two-and-a-quarter or two-and-a-
half inch pot.  As the plants grow, shift them first to a three-inch
pot and then later to a four-inch pot.  You'll need to use an azalea
pot when the plants outgrow the four inch pot.  An azalea pot is two-
thirds as deep as it is wide.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "African Violets," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Coopertive Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
22 December 1987                                                      
-DOC-
                                                      22 December 1987


MEMORANDUM

TO:       Dean J. R. Fisher
          Dean B. K. Webb

FROM:     Jerry R. Lambert
          Computer Coordinator

SUBJECT:  Computer Aided Agricultural Decision Support Systems

I serve on the ECOP Task Force on National Databases, chaired by Dr. 
Basil Eastwood, USDA-ES, and on the ESCOP Special Initiatives 
Subcommittee on Computer-Aided Decision Support Systems in 
Agriculture, chaired by Dr. Don Holt, Illinois Experiment Station 
Director.  As the only member common between those two teams, I am 
struck by their mutual thoughts. 

The ECOP Task Force has met thrice, beginning in June, and decided 
early to encourage integration of individual databases, each organized 
around a particular subject and "mothered" by a specified state and 
specialist, to effect a national database.  A major effort is underway 
to evaluate methods of organization and delivery of those distributed 
databases throughout the nation. 

The ESCOP Subcommittee is thinking broader, as indicated in the draft 
document dated 16 October, "Creating the Computer-Aided Agricultural 
Decision-Support System:  A Research and Development Proposal," which 
you have.  The thrust is that information to support agricultural 
decision making is a major contribution of research and extension 
toward improving the competitiveness of American agriculture.  Of the 
four components of the proposed "CAADSS" on page 2 of the draft, the 
latter three include the topics discussed by the ECOP Task Force.  The 
applied (adaptive) research to form and complete the database is 
included in the ESCOP preliminary proposal.  Parameterization of 
enterprise analyses and software to deliver the decision support 
information, including expert systems, are two major components of the 
database.

At Clemson and throughout South Carolina, we have in place pieces of 
all four of the essential components.  I see several advantages to 
organizing, thinking of and operating our total agricultural research 
(excluding basic research) and extension activities around the CAADSS 
model.  Most predominant is the advantage of making the agriculture of 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APRIL 24 - APRIL 30, 1988	                             
-DOC-
                             APRIL 24 - APRIL 30, 1988	
            
APR 26-27            Ext Specialist Assn Annual Meeting, Hickory Knob State	
                     Park, McCormick, SC (Ent)	
APR 28               Evaluations for Marlboro, Dillon & Horry, TBA (Pee Dee	
                     Dist)	
APR 29               Evaluations for Sumter & Lee, TBA (Pee Dee Dist)	
APR 30-MAY 4         Ext Tech Conf, Clemson House (Staff & Comp Res Dev)	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
22 December 1987                                                      
-DOC-
                                                      22 December 1987


MEMORANDUM

TO:       Dean J. R. Fisher
          Dean B. K. Webb

FROM:     Jerry R. Lambert
          Computer Coordinator

SUBJECT:  Computer Aided Agricultural Decision Support Systems

I serve on the ECOP Task Force on National Databases, chaired by Dr. 
Basil Eastwood, USDA-ES, and on the ESCOP Special Initiatives 
Subcommittee on Computer-Aided Decision Support Systems in 
Agriculture, chaired by Dr. Don Holt, Illinois Experiment Station 
Director.  As the only member common between those two teams, I am 
struck by their mutual thoughts. 

The ECOP Task Force has met thrice, beginning in June, and decided 
early to encourage integration of individual databases, each organized 
around a particular subject and "mothered" by a specified state and 
specialist, to effect a national database.  A major effort is underway 
to evaluate methods of organization and delivery of those distributed 
databases throughout the nation. 

The ESCOP Subcommittee is thinking broader, as indicated in the draft 
document dated 16 October, "Creating the Computer-Aided Agricultural 
Decision-Support System:  A Research and Development Proposal," which 
you have.  The thrust is that information to support agricultural 
decision making is a major contribution of research and extension 
toward improving the competitiveness of American agriculture.  Of the 
four components of the proposed "CAADSS" on page 2 of the draft, the 
latter three include the topics discussed by the ECOP Task Force.  The 
applied (adaptive) research to form and complete the database is 
included in the ESCOP preliminary proposal.  Parameterization of 
enterprise analyses and software to deliver the decision support 
information, including expert systems, are two major components of the 
database.

At Clemson and throughout South Carolina, we have in place pieces of 
all four of the essential components.  I see several advantages to 
organizing, thinking of and operating our total agricultural research 
(excluding basic research) and extension activities around the CAADSS 
model.  Most predominant is the advantage of making the agriculture of 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY PHONE NUMBERS                             
-DOC-
                             COUNTY PHONE NUMBERS
                   Jerry R. Lambert, Computer Coordinator       
 
Listed below are the phone numbers of dial-in modems located in the county 
Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service office.  Each will communi-
cate at 300, 1200 or 2400 baud using 8 data bits, no parity and 1 stop bit. 

If you have problems, call Mike Roberts or Tommy Sluder (8:00 AM - 4:30 PM
M - F) at 803-656-3466.
  
              County            #1       #2       #3       #4
             ---------------------------------------------------
             Abbeville       459-9655 459-9656
             Aiken           642-5226 642-5227 642-5228
             Allendale       584-4283 584-4284 584-4285
             Anderson        226-6182 226-7817 226-8913
             Bamberg         245-5193 245-5194 245-5195
             Barnwell        259-7438 259-7665
             Beaufort        524-4584 524-4806 524-4855 524-5010
             Berkeley        761-1433 761-1428
             Calhoun         655-7444 655-7445
             Charleston      577-9422 577-9423 577-9911 577-9912
             Cherokee        489-4622 489-5349
             Chester         581-0409 581-0509
             Chesterfield    623-2102 623-2103
             Clarendon       435-4471 435-4472 435-4473 435-4474
             Colleton        549-1525 549-1526 549-1527
             Darlington      395-1351 395-1352 395-1353
             Dillon          774-9011 774-9012
             Dorchester      563-2943 563-2949 563-2962
             Edgefield       637-5351 637-5352
             Fairfield       635-6448 635-6449
             Florence        662-7001 662-7084 662-7482 662-7754
             Georgetown      527-1318 527-1319 527-1310 546-7072
             Greenville      235-3060 235-4267 235-6654 235-8550
             Greenwood       229-7299 229-4687 229-0290
             Hampton         943-4637 943-4650
             Horry           248-6362 248-3544 248-4385 248-6415
             Jasper          726-6859 726-6959
             Kershaw         425-4532 425-4533
             Lancaster       286-5495 286-5496
             Laurens         984-6514 984-6515 984-6516
             Lee             484-9466 484-9467
             Lexington       957-3280 957-3293 957-3302 957-3305
             Mccormick       465-3221 465-3222
             Marion          423-4011 423-4012
             Marlboro        479-7123 479-7124
             Newberry        276-7701 276-7702 276-7703
             Oconee          638-5858 638-5859
             Orangeburg      531-1627 531-1635 531-1642 531-1647
             Pickens         878-7971 878-7976
             Richland        252-3820 252-3821 252-3822 252-3823
             Saluda          445-8195 445-8196
             Spartanburg     573-5068 573-9384 573-9440 573-9529
             Sumter          773-1526 773-1527 773-1528 773-1529
             Union           427-0341 427-0342
             Williamsburg    354-6155 354-6156
             York            684-7402 684-7428 684-7481

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
**********  COMPUTER TRAINING CALENDAR  **********              
-DOC-
              **********  COMPUTER TRAINING CALENDAR  **********
                          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                       Judy B. Pilgrim, Data Coordinator

The next series of computer training classes is currently being developed.  
Please watch for announcement via EMAIL to departmental usernames.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COSY HELP	                                   
-DOC-
                                   COSY HELP	
                    Jerry R. Lambert, Computer Coordinator	
	
What is COSY?  COSY is a conferencing program which allows participants to 
read comments that others have made about the topic(s) of the conference, at
other points in time and space, and to make their own comments.

HELP is available from any point in COSY.  Simply enter HELP or ??.	
	
$ COSY - Calls the COSY program, from the $ prompt.  You must have permission 
     to use COSY, which may be requested through the Computer Coordinator if 
     you are a CUFAN subscriber.	
	
Password:  Request for your COSY password, which may be different from your 
     CUFAN password, will be 'cosy' (lower case only) initially and may be 
     reset by the command :PASSWORD.	
	
: - Main prompt from COSY.  Some options are Help, Join, Show, Bye.	
	
: SHOW - Shows a list of the conferences of which you are a member.	
	
: SHOW ALL - Shows a list of all conferences in COSY.	
                  
: JOIN <conference name> - Allows you to "walk in" to a conference.  The first 
     time that you join a conference, you may register as a member and will 
     remain a member until you resign.  As a member you will be notified of 
     new comments.  When you join you will be placed in the READ mode.	 
	
: BYE - Leave COSY and return to VMS.	
	
READ: - Indicates that you are in a conference.  You have the following 
     options:	

     <null line>...........................see next message          
     <number>..............................see message <number>         
     <number> [ to <number> ]..............see messages in that range   
     all...................................see all new messages    
     backward [ <number> [ to <number> ]]..see previous messages      
     comment...............................make a comment on message being read 
     copy..................................copy a message or messages to another
                                            conference                
     date <date> [ to <date> ].............read messages added within time frame
     first [ to last ].....................read every (not just unseen) message
     forward [ <number> [ to <number> ]]...re-set "backward" (& see that range)
     header................................see creator, time, and 1st line only
     quit..................................exit 'read' mode, return to CoSy.
     reference.............................see comments on the message last read
     skip <number>.........................do not see the next <number> messages
     skip to <number>......................skip all messages up to <number>   
     say...................................make a (non-associated) contribution
     search <word>.........................search topic text for <word>      
     withdraw <number>.....................withdraw message <number> if you 	
                                            originated the message	
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - WALL HANGINGS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY               
-DOC-
               ACCESSORIES - WALL HANGINGS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Accessories
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
News You Can Use                               
-DOC-
                               News You Can Use
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

New hot line for Asthma and Allergy sponsored by the American Academy of
Allergy and Immunology. 1-8005581035 Monday through Friday 8-5 pm. Some topics
available are asthma, hives, insect sting allergies, and insulin allergy.

Aids hot line 1-800322aids. Confidential.


Video tapes about AIDS are available at resonable costs from the following
sources: 

    AIDS and the American Family. $39.95. Medical Action Group at 1800522AIDS.
    
    AIDS Our Worst Fears. $29.95. Films for Humanities Inc. at 18002575126.
    
    AIDS- Profile of an Epidemic. Video Takes, 18005267002 will refer you to a
    nearby video store which can order the video.



Booklets Available free of charge from AIDS, Suite 700, 1555 Wilson Boulevard,
Rosslyn, VA 22209 are:

    Surgeon General's Report
    AIDS, Sex and You
    AIDS and Children
    AIDS and Your Job-Are There Risks?


Families in an Infromation Age. National Council on Family Relations(NCFR)
Conference in Atlanta, GA. Contact NCFR, 1910 West Country Road. B. Suite 147,
St. Paul, MN 55113. 612-633-6933.

The Capsule is a newsletter published by Children of Aging Parents,  2761
Trenton Road, Levittown, PA  19056.  You subscribe by joining the organization
for $15.  215-945-6900.

Society for the Right to Die will send you a formal declaration of a desire for
a natural death.  Free.  250 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10107.  212-246-
6973.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
New Materials                                 
-DOC-
                                 New Materials
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

Daddy. Video Tape and study guide.  TV special about unmarried teen fathers.

You Your Children and TV. A new Extension leaflet by Patricia Ziegler,
Department of Family Studies, Cornell.  Copy available from Emily Wiggins.

Celebrate Your Family Across Generations
    At Birth and Death
    At Special Times
    In Hard Times
    Men In the Family
    When You Disagree
    When You Live at a Distance
Pennsylvania Cooperative Extension Service. Copy Available from Emily Wiggins.

Health Care for the Adolescent and Preparing to Remarry. Public Affairs
pamphlets numbers 463A and 647 respectively. Public Affairs Committee, Inc. 
381 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10016. $1.00 for 3 copies.  Allow 4-6 weeks
for delivery.

Prisons and Kids.  Program Ideas for Inmates.  Available on loan from Emily
Wiggins.

Ten Ridiculous Ideas That will Make a Father Out of You.  Pamphlet-$.20. 
Poster -$3.00. Available from Education Department, Planned Parenthood Assn.,
619 NW 23rd Street, Oklahoma City, OK 73103.  Add $2.20 for postage and
handling.
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
For Your Newsletters                             
-DOC-
                             For Your Newsletters
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

About Births

More birthdays in July, August, and September than in any other months.  Fewest
in Feb. Demographers have no scientific explanation for this.

Births are concentrated Monday through Friday, peaking on Tuesdays.  Reason,
cesarean births, 205 of total, hardly ever scheduled on weekends.

Births to single women will stay high, about 20% of all babies. Roughly 55% of
teenagers are unmarried.

Teenage births will decline in the next 10 years because there will be fewer
teenagers.

    Source: The Kiplinger Newsletter, Dec. 26, 1986.




Its a Matter of "Point of View"

Their children are rowdy...Ours are outgoing.
Their children are rude....Ours are assertive.
Their children are showoffs...Ours are personable.
Their children are loud....Ours are expressive.
Their children talk too much...Ours are friendly.
Their children are undisciplined....Ours are uninhibited.
Their children are peculiar...Ours are individuals.
    
    Source: Michaelle Gabriel, High Families


Kissing Lowers Car Accidents

A west German medical magazine reports that on the basis of life insurance
actuarial studies, the husband who kisses his wife every morning before leaving
for work can expect to live a median of five years longer, hold a job that pays
20 percent to 35 percent more, lose up to 50 percent less time from illness,
and be involved in significantly fewer car accidents than the husband who
doesn't.



Love

Time flies. Flowers die. New Days. New Ways. Love Stays.





Weddings

    "A wedding does not a marriage make."  This saying expresses an underlying
principle of marriage enrichment.  David and Vera Mace,say "What you have on
your wedding day is just a heap of raw materials.  Your task is then to work on
the relationship, and through the natural processes of change adaptation, and
growth, to shape the marriage of your dreams."  The Maces often share the poem
on the next page with couples.




Epithalamion

The raw materials of love are yours-
Fond hearts, and lusty blood, and minds in tune:
And so, dear innocents, you think yourselves
Lovers full-blown.

Am I, because I own
Chisel, mallet, and stone,
A sculptor?  And must he
Who hears a skylark and can hold a pen
A poet be?
If neither's so, why then
You're not yet lovers.  But in time to come
(If senses grow not dulled nor spirit dumb)
By constant exercise of skill and wit
By patient toil and judgement exquisite
Of body, mind and heart,
You may, my innocents, fashion
This tenderness, this liking, and this passion
Into a work of art.
    Source: Jan Struther  Marriage Enrichment, June 1986
Propositions About The Family

1. Family is the only institution that teaches how to change.  All other
institutions teach beliefs, ideas which resist change.

2. Family can adapt faster than any other social institution.

3. Family is the largest economic entity--most productive economic entity.

4. Family is the underlying source of individuals continuing commitment to 
productive participation in the larger social enterprise.

5. Family teaches effective behavioral styles--interpersonal skills, problem-
solving skills and self concept skills.

6. Family is the principle promoter of mental/physical health.

7. Family is the principle determiner of happiness/unhappiness in life.

8. Family is the greatest determiner of educational performance.

9. FAmily is the most important determiner of career achievement.
10. Family is the principle determiner of one's longevity, absenteeism or
productivity.

    Source: Ron Daly's News Packet from the Federal Extension Service.



I'm Fine

There's nothing whatever the matter with me.  I'm just as healthy as I can be,
I have arthritis in both my knees and when I walk, I walk with a wheeze.  My
pulse is weak and my blood is thin, but I'm awfully of the shape I'm in.  I
think my liver is out of whack and a terrible pain is in my back.  My hearing
is poor, my sight is dim.  Most everything seems to be out of trim.  But I'm
awfully well for the shape I'm in.

I have arch supports for both my feet.  Or I wouldn't be able to go on the
street.  Sleeplessness I have night after night, and  in the morning I'm just a
sight.  My memory is failing, my head's in a spin.  I'm peacefully living on
aspirin.  But I'm awfully well for the shape I'm in.  


The moral is, as this tale we unfold, that for you and me who are growing old,
It's better to say, "I'm fine" with a grin than to let them know the shape
we're in.


    Source: (Author unknown-The Capsule. Vol 3, No.1, 1987.



To contribute to your mental health here are two chuckles contributed by my
Aunt Edna who used to be an Extension Home Economist.  Incidentally, did you
know that there is a whole body of research now on the importance of humor in
facing terminal illness?
  
It wasn't the apple in the tree that got the world into trouble.  It was the
"pear" on the ground.  

Did you hear about the widow who married four more times?  She married a
banker, an actor, a lawyer, and then an undertaker.  one for the money, two for
the show, three to get ready, and four to go.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Ideas                        
-DOC-
                        Ideas
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

    More Manpower- Perhaps the people who suggest that you give a certain new
program in your county would come into your office for a day and help you
design it.  They have some idea about what they want or they would not have
suggested it.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Radio Spots                                  
-DOC-
                                  Radio Spots
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

Marriage Reality Check                                     30 Seconds
    List your own goals in life and the goals you believe are held by your
spouse.  Ask your spouse to do the same thing.  Then compare the lists and
discuss them.  Do this often.  Long- range aim is to build commitment towards
common goals.

Source: Lauer, R. H. and Lauer, J. C. Til Death Do Us Part. In Bottom Line, May
15,1987.


The following radio spots are courtesy of Chuck Smith in Kansas.  He developed
them to go along with a lesson on friendship.  I'm sure you will agree they are
too good not to use in South Carolina.






THE ART OF PAYING ATTENTION                      3.5 Minutes
One of the most important parts of effectively listening to  
others, is genuinely paying attention to what they're saying.  If 
a friend is having problems and opens up to you, paying close 
attention to what he/she says relays the message of caring and 
security.  With only a few thought-out procedures in mind, this 
can easily be accomplished.  
Relaxing physically, initiating and maintaining eye contact and 
taking cues for response and action from what the person is 
saying, are effective responses to someone who needs to talk to 
you.  
By relaxing physically, you let your posture be comfortable and 
your movements will be more natural, in turn making your friend 
more comfortable.  
Once you initiate eye contact, maintaining and varying it will 
continue its effectiveness.  If you stare long and hard at them, 
without varying your eye contact, you might make them feel uneasy.  
Eye contact can be an excellent tool when used properly, but can 
be self-defeating when it's not.  
Make a strong effort not to interrupt your friend or jump from 
subject to subject.  Be alert and recognize the cues for your 

response or action from your friend.  If the conversation comes 
to a halt, go back and question something said earlier or ask 
your friend what he/she is thinking about now.  This might help open some 
new doors.  
Try not to bring yourself and your opinions into the conversation.  
Being judgmental or conveying a superior attitude, will tend to 
make a friend close up.  Lend a shoulder as an equal, instead of 
reassuring like a "parent."  
As you can see, helping a friend isn't hard at all.  With a little 
forethought, and a lot of love, compassion and sensitivity, you 
can make a friend smile again!   

Source: Chuck Smith, Kansas Extension









BEING A GOOD LISTENER                            2 Minutes
To be a good listener, the first thing you must do is...stop 
talking.  It's difficult, if not impossible, to help someone when 
you're doing all the talking.  This does not mean, however, that 
you sit lifeless, not muttering a single word.  Often your friend 
will not know where to start, so a few brief open-ended questions 
can be useful. Some "door openers" are: "Tell me about it."  "Would
you like to talk about it?"  "Let's discuss it."  "I'm listening."
and "This seems really important to you."  you are also encouraged
when asking these questions to--listen to the answers.  "Especially
try to find out how the person feels." 
Once you get the person talking, try to encourage consistently, and 
keep the flow of conversation going. Some suggested ways of doing
just that are nodding, saying "Oh?"  "So."  "And."  "How did you feel
 about that?"  and the repetition of one or two key words. 
At this point in your friend's "crisis," he or she needs to let 
their feelings out--both positive and negative.  This is not easy 
for most people as they may fear your disapproval.  Being 
non-judgmental toward those feelings can encourage a friend to open 
up.  Your listening will give a better understanding of their problem and
themselves. 
Source:  Ron Pitzer, Minnesota Extension Service 
CHARACTERISTICS OF HELPING                       2 Minutes
When someone we know is going through a tough time we may want to 
reach out to show we care.  When we do respond we should keep 
four qualities foremost in our minds:  Accurate empathy, 
genuineness, respect and clarity. 
To be accurately empathetic, you must accomplish two things.  The 
first is to discriminate or see the world as your friend does.  
Try to get a feeling of what that world means to your friend.  
Second, communicate your understanding of those feelings and 
perspectives, to make your friend feel you really do understand. 
Genuineness is a vital part of making your friend feel 
comfortable with you.  If you are sincerely sympathetic to their 
situation, they'll sense it and know you really care. 
By listening attentively and not being judgmental of their 
feelings and attitudes, you are relaying a feeling of respect 
toward them.  Focusing on their positive qualities and that they 
are a valued person in yours, and others' lives, also shows 
respect. 
Sometimes a friend has a hard time recognizing what the real 
problem is.  During a conversation your friend may start with a 
concern and then retreat to a "safe," neutral topic.  At this 
point you might gently help them get back on track.  Asking open 
ended questions starting with "when," "what" and "how" may help 
your friend gain a clearer understanding of what is happening. 

Source: Chuck Smith, Kansas Extension


















CHILDREN NEED TO KNOW                            2 Minutes
It's common when families are going through a difficult time, 
for parents not to keep their children informed about the problem 
that is affecting the family. Even though the problem isn't acknowledged,
children can feel the tension and are affected by the stress that is
experienced by others in the family.  If the problem is ignored children will 
draw their own conclusions--which usually involves a lot of self- 
blame.  For example, children may feel guilty because they believe 
they contribute to their family's financial woes. 
If the problem touches a child's life in some way, directly or 
indirectly, parents might take some time to try to explain what 
is happening in words children can understand.  They don't need 
to know everything, but the parent should give enough information 
so the child can put the situation into perspective and feel a 
part of the family's response to the adversity, instead of feeling 
left out and bewildered. 
Age is a consideration when deciding how much a child needs to 
know about a situation to understand it.  But at all ages, 
preschool through high school, children have a desperate need to 
make sense and understand the tension that affects their 
families. 
    Children who are kept appropriately informed at the right time 

can support their parents and siblings because they know what is 
going on and they feel they are a part of the family's effort to
hang together as a team and overcome adversity. 

Source: Kansas Extension Service
















COMMUNICATING WITHOUT TALKING               1 Minute and 45 Sec.
Even in today's era of mass communication, body language often 
can be very powerful.  Non-verbal communication--a shrug, a
 raised eyebrow, a smile, tears, a clenched fist--can be 
a highly effective method of communication. 
    The use of the body to convey a message actually begins with the 
newborn.  The baby knows how to get attention and fill his needs
by using a smile, a cry, a gurgle, a move, a tightened muscle,
even by banging a toy against the side of the crib or tossing it
to the floor. Adults continue to use body language.  Frequently,
adults use the same means of expression the infant uses. 
Between husbands and wives especially, the tone of voice, speed 
of walking or talking, drumming fingers, and facial expressions
reveal much more of a person's true feelings than words do. 
The eyes especially give away a person's true feelings. Even 
young children can recognize emotions in their parents' eyes. 
Using body language when stress could cause a verbal conflict.
Also, pay close attention to the use of body language by family
the use of body language by family members to achieve more 
effective family communication. 

Source: Chuck Smith, Kansas Extension Service
CREATE A CARING RELATIONSHIP WITH A YOUTH DEALING WITH STRESS (2 1/4 Minutes)
The first step to helping kids deal with stress is to create an 
atmosphere of caring and safety.  Knowing you are interested and 
are taking the time to listen and be concerned will convey 
security and encourage them to express how they feel.  There are 
two main ways to communicate your sincerity and concern for 
children:  show sensitivity and communicate acceptance. 
Sensitivity and warmth can be expressed in several different 
ways.  We can maintain reasonable eye contact at the child's eye 
level.  As we talk we express our warmth by being attentive and 
remaining in a relaxed position, leaning forward a little.  We 
also convey our respect by choosing a time when we are not likely 
to be interrupted.   
Communicating our acceptance of the child as a person is a second 
important aspect of communicating sincerity and concern.  As 
children talk about their experiences, we communicate acceptance 
by showing them we understand in such a way that they do not wish 
they had kept their ideas or feelings private.  Keep in mind that 
a young person's perception of the situation is going to be 
different than yours is as an adult.  Sometimes it's difficult to 
remain non-judgmental when you're talking with children.  The 
tendency is to feel that it's our job to correct a child's "bad" 
feelings. 
Keep in mind that acceptance does not mean approval.  Approval 
conveys that you admire or agree with how the other person feels 
or thinks.  Acceptance, on the other hand, means that we recognize 
the right of the other person to feel a certain way or to have 
certain beliefs.  We can convey acceptance of what a person feels 
or believes even if we disapprove of what that person does. 
Kids who experience stress need a caring, sincere adult to walk 
with them through their problems.   

Source: Chuck Smith, Kansas Extension Service











ESTABLISHING RAPPORT                   3 Minutes
Rapport, or harmony as Webster's New World Dictionary defines it, 
is important to establish in a helping situation.  With some 
basic guidelines, you can easily work toward it and help a friend 
effectively. 
Friends might not want to "burden" you with their problems by 
making a direct appeal so it's important to be receptive to their 
more subtle, indirect signals for help.  Pleas for understanding 
and support can be conveyed by the look on a person's face, a 
head down, shoulders hunched posture, or even an unexpected phone 
call for no apparent reason. 
When you find out a friend has a problem it's important to 
evaluate yourself and see if you are ready and able to listen.  
Insincerity will only deepen your friend's problems. 
If you decide you are willing and ready to help your friend, the 
next step is to offer him or her a sort of sanctuary.  This could 
be done by taking a walk with him or her or by making 
arrangements so you won't be disturbed while you're talking.  
Being receptive to their needs relays the message that you are 
really interested in providing support. 
Your posture can tell your friends a lot about your interest in 
them.  Try to avoid a "closed" posture--such as crossing your 
arms and legs.  Relaxing and maintaining good eye contact will 
show you are involved and paying attention. 
Try to feel their pain, sorrow, and happiness instead of 
remaining aloof and distant.  Show that you are sincerely "in 
sync" with their feelings.  You might, for example, find yourself 
smiling when they are happy, frowning when they are angry, or 
having tears in your eyes when they cry.  This demonstration of an 
emotional bond swiftly creates rapport.  
Once rapport has been established, your friend will realize that 
you care and are truly interested in him or her.  The realization that 
someone is concerned and is willing to get involved creates a 
relationship of trust. 

Source: Chuck Smith, Kansas Extension Service








THE FAMILY UNIT:  A GOOD SOURCE OF SUPPORT       2 Minutes
Your best source of support when problems arise, is closer than 
you think.  Whether it's the birth of a baby and help is needed, 
a major setback in a project, or the death of a loved one, your 
family is there to support and help you. 
One thing unique to the family group is that there are usually 
relatives who can support and help each other cope with a 
crisis.
Most people feel more comfortable discussing their problems with 
relatives and friends, rather than professionals.  Often, though, 
they avoid doing this because they don't want to "bother" or 
worry them.  When, in reality, those nearest you are the ones who 
are apt to realize something is wrong, and are possibly effected 
by the same problem. 
Family and friends may not always have the answers, but they're 
ready to help you if they can or help you find those answers 
elsewhere.  While families may encounter more changes than 
individuals, they also offer a support net work that is often 
unavailable to individuals. 

Source: Kansas Extension Service

HEED YOUR CHILD'S DISTRESS SIGNALS          5 Minutes
Children may respond to stress in different ways, but they are as 
vulnerable to it as adults are--maybe even more so.  Not 
recognizing stress in a child's life can lead to problems. 
Stress is what we experience when we interact with our 
environment.  It is always there, but stress can become distress. 
Parents should be alert to the fact that their child may 
encounter situations he or she cannot cope with.  What is
distressful depends on personal perception, and varies from child
to child.  For instance, one child may not feel any stress if kept
up a little late.  Another child may find that to be very
stressful--and distressing. 
To determine what could be distressful to a child, you have to 
first consider that individual child's perceptions, needs, and 
resources. 
Does a child perceive the dark to be frightening?  If so, what 
does the child need to help overcome that fear?  If it is a night 
light or a bedtime story from a parent, are those resources 
available to the child?  If not, that stress may lead to a 
distressing situation that the child may not be able to deal with. 
Young children are egocentric, thinking only from their own point
of view.  They tend to think they cause the events that cause them
stress or distress.   Children may think, for instance, that when
parents argue they are somehow to blame, and the guilt adds to 
their distress.   
In addition to their inexperience, children are dependent on 
adults for their safety and well-being, and can't operate 
independently.  They need adults to guide them through the rough 
spots. 
When children are in distress and do not receive the assistance 
they need from adults, their attempts to cope are often expressed 
through their behavior.  Their reactions can be physical, such as 
stomachaches, sleeping and eating disturbances, nightmares, and 
an inability to relax or concentrate.  The reactions can be 
behavioral and include immature behavior, tantrums, aggression, 
withdrawal, clinging, mood swings, or excessive risk-taking. 
Abrupt changes or excesses in behavior indicate distress.  There
are ways of coping, of asking for protection and attention and
comfort.  Many children have stomachaches; but if a child has one
every day, that may be a sign of distress.  An occasional tantrum 
is understandable, but if a formerly well-behaved child starts
having too much stress and distress in his or the tantrums may 
come more frequently.
Children often can't pinpoint what is bothering them. They don't
have the language to explain.  But parents should be observant of
their child's behavior.  If it seems out of the norm, that child
may be suffering from an overload of distress and need help.  We
must learn to be sensitive detectives, keeping our eyes and ears 
open, being attentive to signs of stress that signal a plea for
help. 

Source: Chuck Smith, Kansas Extension Service














GOALSEARCHING                          2 Minutes
Goalsearching can be a powerful form of support.  When a friend 
is struggling to make sense of a loss you can help give some 
direction to his or her life.  By working through the following 
steps, your friend begins to rethink the problem and identify 
effective responses to reach personal goals. 
There are three parts to a goalsearch:  the touchstone, talent 
and a target.
The touchstone is what your friend wants to gain from the target.  
For example, if your friend wants to go back to college and finish 
a degree, his or her touchstone would be the feeling of 
accomplishment that accompanies learning.  The touchstone is that 
part of us that experiences some activity as deeply satisfying. 
Talents are the skills and personal assets a friend has that 
would help them reach his or her target.  It's often hard for 
people to recognize their own talents, so it's an important part 
of your role as a helper to help them realize their abilities, 
and to let them know they are important. 
The target is your friend's specific goal.  This goal may take 
time to develop, because your friend must spend time deciding 
what he or she wants to have as an end product.  Another thing to 
watch for as you are helping your friend set up his or her goals, 
is to keep them realistic.  Goals that are unrealistic only lead 
to disappointment and feelings of failure. 

Source: Chuck Smith, Kansas Extension Service
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Suggested Reading                               
-DOC-
                               Suggested Reading
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist
Listed below are some books to take along on vacation for self improvement. 
They have recent copyright dates and will help you stay up-to-date with human
relations theory. Most are easy to read.

Viorst, Judith. Necessary Losses. Fawcett Gold Metal: New York, 1986. 
Judith handles the subject of "grief" in a different and enlightening manner.  
She writes about the things or people we have to give up in order to grow up.
Available in paperback. Excellent book for your own growth.

Burns, David. Feeling Good- The Mood Theory. Signet: New York, 1980. This book
relates a new way to help friends and family members who are depressed. Also
includes how to help ourselves.  Starts out in a rather complicated manner,but
hang in there, the book gets better and better.

Quick,T.L. Managing People at Work. Desk Guide. Executive Enterprises:New
York,1984. Topics include: How to avoid being manipulated by employees, working
with a negative person, what to do about the chronic complainer, and getting
your boss to delegate. Contains about 145 chapters.

Tannen, Deborah. That's Not What I Mean. First Ballentine Books: New York, \$ 
1987. This paperback shows how conversational styles make or break
relationships.

Newman, George. 101 Ways to be a Super Dad. Don't Divorce Your Kids. Blossom
Valley Press: Mountain View California, 1981. I have this one checked out from
the library and will loan it to the first agent to request it.  You may order a
copy from Blossom Valley Press, P.O. Box 4044, Blossom Valley Station, 
Mountain View, CA 94040. (415)941-7525. $6.95. This book is applicable to
separated mothers as well as fathers.

If your family has a video recorder consider purchasing the Video Movie Guide. 
Ballentine Books: New York, 1986.  Videos are rated with stars and turkeys.  A
brief overview of each movie is given. Paper back. Under ten dollars.

Sobel, David. Aids: What you Should Know! What You Should Tell Your Children! 
Good Housekeeping, June 1987. pp. 71-75.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - CLOCKS AND MIRRORS - GEORGETOWN COUNTY             
-DOC-
             ACCESSORIES - CLOCKS AND MIRRORS - GEORGETOWN COUNTY
             Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Accessories
Type of Resource:       Contact Person:  Bill & Cele Leslie, Susan Stauffer
Name:Clocks and Crafts, One Wesley Rd., Murrells Inlet, SC  29576 Ph:651-6200
Comment:  Antique clocks restored, fine crafts, accessories, restoration

Resource:  Accessories
Type of Resource:       Contact Person:
Name:  Winans Clock Menders, 914 Highmarket, Georgetown, SC  Phone:  546-6560
Comment:
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - LAMPS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY                   
-DOC-
                   ACCESSORIES - LAMPS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Accessories
Type of Resource: Retail   Contact Person: Selena Calliham   Phone:637-5642
Name: Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - CLOCKS AND MIRRORS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY             
-DOC-
             ACCESSORIES - CLOCKS AND MIRRORS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Accessories
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - CRAFT SUPPLIES - EDGEFIELD COUNTY               
-DOC-
               ACCESSORIES - CRAFT SUPPLIES - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource: Accessories
Type of Resource: Retail     Contact Person:              Phone: 637-5438
Name: Carolyn's House of Fabrics, 302 Main Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment: Craft supplies
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEDDING - LINENS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY                     
-DOC-
                     BEDDING - LINENS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Bed Linens
Type of Resource: Retail    Contact Person:            Phone:  637-6604
Name:  Riegel Textile Outlet Store, 304-A Buncombe Street, Edgefield, SC 29824
Comment:  Sells only sheets for baby cribs

Resource:  Bedding -linens
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEDDING - COMFORTERS AND BEDSPREADS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY           
-DOC-
           BEDDING - COMFORTERS AND BEDSPREADS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Bedding
Type of Resource: Outlet Store  Contact Person:        Phone:  637-6604
Name: Riegel Textile Outlet Store, 304-A Buncombe Street, Edgefield, SC 29824
Comment:

Resource:  Bedding
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEDDING - ELECTRIC BLANKETS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY               
-DOC-
               BEDDING - ELECTRIC BLANKETS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Bedding
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone:  637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - FABRICS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY                   
-DOC-
                   INTERIORS - FABRICS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource:Retail Store  Contact Person: Selena Calliham Phone: 637-5642
Name: Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC 29824
Comment:
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - DECORATING SERVICES - EDGEFIELD COUNTY             
-DOC-
             INTERIORS - DECORATING SERVICES - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - FLOORS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY                    
-DOC-
                    INTERIORS - FLOORS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail   Contact Person: Lee Bleadsoe  Phone: 637-5571
Name: Lee's Carpet and Vinyl, 705 Augusta Road, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:  Vinyl floors, carpet, hard wood flooring

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - LIGHT FIXTURES AND FANS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY           
-DOC-
           INTERIORS - LIGHT FIXTURES AND FANS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - WALL TREATMENTS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY               
-DOC-
               INTERIORS - WALL TREATMENTS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail    Contact Person: Lee Bleadsoe   Phone: 637-5571
Name: Lee's Carpet and Vinyl, 705 Augusta Road, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - BLINDS, MINI-BLINDS, AND VERTICALS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY      
-DOC-
      INTERIORS - BLINDS, MINI-BLINDS, AND VERTICALS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Lee Bleadsoe     Phone:  637-5571
Name:  Lee's Carpet and Vinyl, 705 Augusta Road, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - SHUTTERS, SHADES, AND WOVEN-WOOD BLINDS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY   
-DOC-
   INTERIORS - SHUTTERS, SHADES, AND WOVEN-WOOD BLINDS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Lee Bleadsoe     Phone:  637-5571
Name:  Lee's Carpet and Vinyl, 705 Augusta Road, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - SOLAR SCREENS AND FILM AND STAINED GLASS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY   
-DOC-
   INTERIORS - SOLAR SCREENS AND FILM AND STAINED GLASS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - DRAPERIES AND CURTAINS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY            
-DOC-
            INTERIORS - DRAPERIES AND CURTAINS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TABLE APPOINTMENTS - CHINA, CRYSTAL, AND SILVER - EDGEFIELD COUNTY     
-DOC-
     TABLE APPOINTMENTS - CHINA, CRYSTAL, AND SILVER - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Table Appointments
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:

Resource:  Table Appointments
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person:                  Phone:  637-3538
Name:  Tidwell Jewelers, 207 Main Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TABLE APPOINTMENTS - LINENS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY               
-DOC-
               TABLE APPOINTMENTS - LINENS - EDGEFIELD COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Table Appointments
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Selena Calliham  Phone: 637-5642
Name:  Gallery on the Hill, 202 Penn Street, Edgefield, SC  29824
Comment:

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
REHABILITATIVE SERVICES IN COUNTIES                      
-DOC-
                      REHABILITATIVE SERVICES IN COUNTIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

   Types Of Clinics                               Service Components

Endocrine Clinic                                   Nursing Assessment
Pediatric Cardiology Clinic                        Pediatric Evaluation
Cystic Fibrosis Clinic                             Psycho-Social Assessment
Sickle Cell Clinic                                 Nutrition Assessment
Orthopedic Clinic                                  Health Education
Myelodysplasia Clinic
Scoliosis Clinic
Cleft Lip/Palate Clinic
Pediatric Clinic


     CLINIC                                             PHONE

Aiken C.R.S. Clinic                                    803-642-1651
Aiken County Health Department
P. O. Box 2269
Aiken, S.C.  29801

Catawba C.R.S. Clinic                                  803-285-7628
Lancaster County Health Department
P. O. Box 817
Lancaster, S.C.  29720

Charleston C.R.S. Clinic                               803-792-3561
Medical University of South Carolina
171 Ashley Avenue
Charleston, S.C.  29403

Columbia C.R.S. Clinic                                 803-253-6391
1221 Gregg Street
Columbia, S.C.  29201
Florence C.R.S. Clinic                                 803-667-2008
555 E. Cheves Street                                        or 2001
Florence, S.C.  29503

Greenville C.R.S. Clinic                               803-240-8855
Greenville County Health Department
P. O. Box 2507
Greenville, S.C.  29602

Greenwood C.R.S. Clinic                                803-229-5292
Greenwood County Health Department
1118 Phoenix Street
Greenwood, S.C.  29646

Low Country C.R.S. Clinic                              803-525-7221
Low Country Health District
P. O. Box 1479
Beaufort, S.C.  29901
Orangeburg C.R.S. Clinic                               803-536-9060
Edisto Health District
P. O. Box 940
Orangeburg, S.C.  29115

Spartanburg C.R.S. Clinic                              803-596-3307
Spartanburg County Health Department
P. O. Box 4217
Spartanburg, S.C.  29303

Waccamaw C.R.S. Clinic                                 803-248-6381
Horry County Health Department
P. O. Box 1206
Conway, S.C.  29526

Wateree C.R.S. Clinic                                  803-773-5511
Sumter County Health Department
P. O. Box 1628
Sumter, S.C.  29150
Pediatric Heart Clinic                                 803-792-3291
Medical University of South Carolina
171 Ashley Avenue
Charleston, S.C.  29403

Camp Burnt Gin                                         Lane Pellett
S.C. DHEC                                              Director
2600 Bull Street                                       803-734-4610
Columbia, S.C.  29201

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
     Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specilist

                               Mrs. Elaine Hall
                         Director of Special Education
                       Abbeville County School District
                                 P. O. Box 520
                             Abbeville, SC  29620

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
     Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specilist

                               Ms. Joanne Greer
                         Aiken County School District
                                P. O. Box 1137
                               Aiken, SC  29801
                               Phone:  649-6085

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
     Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specilist

                                Mr. David Lewis
                       Allendale County School District
                                 P. O. Box 458
                             Allendale, SC  29810
                               Phone:  584-4603
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
     Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specilist

Mr. David M. Adams                           Ms. Shelby Kay
Anderson School District One                 Anderson School District Two
P. O. Box 98                                 P. O. Box 98
Williamston, SC  29697                       Williamston, SC  29697
Phone:  847-7344                             Phone:  369-7364

Mr. J. D. Blanding                           Ms. Sarah Powell
Anderson School District Three               Anderson School District Four
P. O. Box 116                                P. O. Box 545
Starr, SC  29684                             Pendleton, SC  29670
Phone:  352-6155                             Phone:  646-7597

Mr. J. Jonathan Jennings
Anderson School District Five
Drawer 439
Anderson, SC  29622
Phone:  260-5000
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
     Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specilist

Mrs. Betty Bagley                             Mrs. Sidney Wait
Bamberg School District One                   Bamberg School District Two
Box 949                                       Box 345
Bamberg, SC  29003                            Denmark, SC  29042
Phone:  245-2260                              Phone:  793-3340

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Ms. Anne Atkins                             Ms. Mary Smith
Barnwell School District #19                Barnwell School District #29
P. O. Box 185                               P. O. Box 508
Blackville, SC  29817                       Williston, SC  29853
Phone:  284-2234                            Phone:  266-3071

Mr. Tim Britt
Barnwell School District #45
Sewell Developmental Center
Allen Street
Barnwell, SC  29812
Phone:  259-5880
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                             Mrs. Janice L. Karesh
                        Beaufort County School District
                                  Drawer 309
                              Beaufort, SC  29902
                               Phone:  524-2660
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                                Ms. Carol Myers
                        Berkeley County School District
                                 P. O. Box 847
                           Moncks Corner, SC  29461
                               Phone:  761-8600
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                             Ms. Myrtis M. Salley
                        Calhoun County School District
                                 P. O. Box 215
                            St. Matthews, SC  29135
                            Phone:  (803) 655-7310
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Dr. Kathryn E. Altman, Director
                           Pupil Personnel Services
                       Charleston County School District
                               3 Chisolm Street
                             Charleston, SC  29401
                           Phone:  722-8461 Ext. 228
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                               Mrs. Nell Ramsey
                        Cherokee County School District
                                 P. O. Box 460
                              Gaffney, SC  29342
                               Phone:  489-0261
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                                Mrs. Nell Jones
                        Chester County School District
                               103 Foote Street
                              Chester, SC  29706
                               Phone:  385-6122

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                               Mr. Warren Burch
                      Chesterfield County School District
                                141 Main Street
                            Chesterfield, SC  29709
                               Phone:  623-2175                       

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                             Ms. Dorothy P. Choice
                         Clarendon School District One
                                 P. O. Box 38
                             Summerton, SC  29148

                             Mrs. Barbara Johnson
                         Clarendon School District Two
                                P. O. Box 1252
                              Manning, SC  29102
                               Phone:  435-8489

                            Mrs. Elizabeth L. Coker
                        Clarendon School District Three
                               P. O. Drawer 270
                             Turbeville, SC  29162
                               Phone:  659-2188

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                                Mr. Robert Bell
                        Colleton County School District
                                 P. O. Box 290
                             Walterboro, SC  29488
                               Phone:  549-2822

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                               Mrs. Ronna Askins
                       Darlington County School District
                                102 Park Street
                             Darlington, SC  29532
                               Phone:  393-8551
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                        
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                               Mr. Stephen Laird
                          Dillon School District One
                                    Box 644
                           Lake View, SC  29563-0644
                               Phone:  759-2882

                              Ms. Judith Huggins
                          Dillon School District Two
                            West Washington Street
                               Dillon, SC  29536
                               Phone:  774-4671

                               Mrs. Jane Martin
                         Dillon School District Three
                          Office of Special Services
                                 P. O. Box 458
                               Latta, SC  29565
                               Phone:  752-7101
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                             Mrs. Margie Weathers 
                        Dorchester School District One 
                             500 Ridge Street St. 
                               George, SC  29477 
                               Phone:  563-4535 

                                Mr. Webb Daniel 
                        Dorchester School District Two 
                            102 Greenwave Boulevard 
                            Summerville, SC  29483 
                         Phone:  873-6217, 6219, 2901 

                                Mr. Maxcy Gregg 
                       Dorchester School District Three 
                               Route 1, Box 810 
                             Dorchester, SC  29437 
                               Phone:  462-7642 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                             Mrs. Iris H. Pickett
                       Edgefield County School District
                                 P. O. Box 608
                             Edgefield, SC  29824
                               Phone:  275-4601


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                              Mr. A. Clark Batten
                       Fairfield County School District
                               P. O. Drawer 622
                             Winnsboro, SC  29180
                               Phone:  635-2120
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                           Mr. James F. Reames, Jr.
                         Florence School District One
                             319 S. Dargan Street
                              Florence, SC  29501
                               Phone:  669-4141

                                 Mr. Terry Orr
                         Florence School District Two
                               Route 1, Box 36-B
                              Pamplico, SC  29583
                               Phone:  493-2502

                             Ms. Cheryl H. Warren
                        Florence School District Three
                                 P. O. Box 128
                             Lake City, SC  29560
                               Phone:  394-3353
                               Ms. Gloria Nelson
                         Florence School District Four
                              612 S. Hill Street
                            Timmonsville, SC  29161

                               Mr. Jerry Powell
                         Florence School District Five
                                P. O. Drawer 98
                            Johnsonville, SC  29555
                               Phone:  386-2341


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                            Mrs. Violet R. Farrell
                       Georgetown County School District
                              1131 Church Street
                             Georgetown, SC  29440

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                                Mrs. Polly Sten
                       Greenville County School District
                                P. O. Box 2848
                              301 Camperdown Way
                             Greenville, SC  29602
                            Phone:  (803) 242-6450
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                            Mrs. Johnnie W. Bailey
                         Greenwood School District #50
                                 P. O. Box 248
                             Greenwood, SC  29646
                               Phone:  223-4348

                                 Mr. John Bone
                         Greenwood School District #51
                               42 Sparks Avenue
                            Ware Shoals, SC  29692
                               Phone:  456-7496

                              Ms. Sandra Calliham
                         Greenwood School District #52
                               119 S. Cambridge
                             Ninety Six, SC  29666
                               Phone:  543-4054
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                            Mrs. Johnnie W. Bailey
                         Greenwood School District #50
                                 P. O. Box 248
                             Greenwood, SC  29646
                               Phone:  223-4348

                                 Mr. John Bone
                         Greenwood School District #51
                               42 Sparks Avenue
                            Ware Shoals, SC  29692
                               Phone:  456-7496

                              Ms. Sandra Calliham
                         Greenwood School District #52
                               119 S. Cambridge
                             Ninety Six, SC  29666
                               Phone:  543-4054
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                              Mr. Philip Youmans
                          Hampton School District One
                             11-A Oak Street East
                              Hampton, SC  29924
                               Phone:  943-3400

                               Mr. Mikell Miller
                          Hampton School District Two
                                   Box 1028
                               Estill, SC  29918
                               Phone:  625-2875

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                                Dr. Bill Latham
                        Asst. Supt. for Pupil Services
                         Horry County School District
                               1701 Horry Street
                               Conway, SC  29526
                               Phone:  248-2206
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                                Mr. Ed Iovanna
                         Jasper County School District
                                 P. O. Box 848
                             Ridgeland, SC  29936
                               Phone:  726-3071
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                             Mrs. Susan D. DuRant
                        Kershaw County School District
                                 DuBose Court
                               Camden, SC  29020
                     Phone:  432-8416 (or 254-5967 WATTS)
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                            Dr. Jacqueline S. Adams
                       Lancaster County School District
                               P. O. Drawer 130
                              100 E. Arch Street
                             Lancaster, SC  29720
                               Phone:  286-6975
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                               Mr. H. D. Taylor
                          Laurens School District #55
                                 P. O. Box 388
                              Laurens, SC  29360
                               Phone:  984-5814

                               Ms. Kay Cleveland
                          Laurens School District #56
                                  Drawer 484
                              Clinton, SC  29325
                               Phone:  833-4130
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                               Mr. Randall Burns
                          Lee County School District
                                 P. O. Box 507
                                 Dennis Avenue
                            Bishopville, SC  29010
                               Phone:  484-5391
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                              Dr. Kay Wright Rush
                         Lexington School District One
                                    Box 219
                             Lexington, SC  29072
                           Phone:  359-4178 Ext. 215

                               Mrs. Bess Vaughn
                         Lexington School District Two
                               715 Ninth Street
                           West Columbia, SC  29169
                               Phone:  796-4708

                             Mr. William E. Black
                        Lexington School District Three
                           707 East Columbia AVenue
                             Batesburg, SC  29006
                               Phone:  532-9289
                              Mrs. Debbie Gunter
                        Lexington School District Four
                                 P. O. Box 569
                              Swansea, SC  29160
                               Phone:  568-3886

                            Dr. Robert K. Hatchette
                        Lexington School District Five
                                    Box 938
                             Ballentine, SC  29002
                               Phone:  781-0457

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                               Ms. Ann Quillian
                       McCormick County School District
                                 P. O. Box 326
                             McCormick, SC  29835
                               Phone:  465-2322
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                             Mr. Charles J. Bethea
                          Marion School District One
                             616 Northside Avenue
                               Marion, SC  29571
                               Phone:  423-1811

                            Mrs. Suzanne C. Dawsey
                          Marion School District One
                        Southside Annex, Liberty Street
                               Marion, SC  29571
                               Phone:  423-0961

                             Ms. Sherry Strickland
                          Marion School District Two
                                 P. O. Box 689
                              Mullins, SC  29574
                               Phone:  526-2181
                             Mrs. Rachel J. Mason
                         Marion School District Three
                               Rains, SC  29589
                               Phone:  423-2891

                              Mrs. Robin Williams
                          Marion School District Four
                                Route 1, Box 22
                              Gresham, SC  29546
                               Phone:  362-0331

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                             Mrs. Minnie W. Smith
                        Marlboro County School District
                                 P. O. Box 947
                           Bennettsville, SC  29512
                               Phone:  479-4016


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                              Mr. Robert Thompson
                        Newberry County School District
                                 P. O. Box 718
                              Newberry, SC  29108
                               Phone:  276-3216


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                          Mr. Buddy Herring, Director
                               Special Education
                         Oconee County School District
                                 P. O. Box 220
                              Walhalla, SC  29691
                               Phone:  638-5486
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                           Mrs. Elizabeth B. McClain
                        Orangeburg School District One
                                    Box 337
                            Springfield, SC  29146
                               Phone:  258-3387

                              Ms. Mabel S. Sowell
                        Orangeburg School District Two
                                    Box 36
                               Bowman, SC  29018
                               Phone:  829-2538

                           Mrs. Suzanne de Treville
                       Orangeburg School District Three
                                 P. O. Box 98
                             Holly Hill, SC  29059
                               Phone:  496-3288
                            Ms. Tonya-Lee Infinger
                        Orangeburg School District Four
                                P. O. Drawer A
                            Cordova, SC  29039-0099
                               Phone:  534-7420

                                Ms. Nancy Nance
                        Orangeburg School District Five
                               578 Ellis Avenue
                             Orangeburg, SC  29115
                               Phone:  534-5454

                               Ms. Verneta Guess
                        Orangeburg School District Six
                                    Box 640
                               North, SC  29112
                               Phone:  247-2162
  \$
                         Ms. Frances Bowers, Director
                               Special Services
                       Orangeburg School District Seven
                                   Drawer L
                              Elloree, SC  29047
                               Phone:  897-2671

                         Ms. Angela Wimberly, Director
                               Special Services
                       Orangeburg School District Eight
                                 P. O. Box 218
                            Branchville, SC  29432
                               Phone:  274-8588

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                            Ms. Jeanette Winchester
                        Pickens County School District
                               Route 8, Box 375
                               Easley, SC  29640
                               Phone:  859-1405

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                             Mrs. Barbara Bradford
                         Richland School District One
                              C & S Bank Building
                                919 Bluff Road
                              Columbia, SC  29201
                               Phone:  733-6130

                              Dr. Emmala Barnett
                         Richland School District Two
                             6831 Brookfield Road
                              Columbia, SC  29206
                               Phone:  787-1910

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                               Mr. Tommy Burbage
                         Saluda County School District
                               404 N. Wise Road
                               Saluda, SC  29138
                               Phone:  445-8714


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                                Mr. Randy Bell
                        Spartanburg School District One
                                 P. O. Box 218
                             Campobello, SC  29322
                               Phone:  468-4542

                                 Dr. Mike Yehl
                        Spartanburg School District Two
                                    Route 6
                            Administrative Building
                            Spartanburg, SC  29303
                               Phone:  578-0128

                             Ms. Philippa Sellers
                       Spartanburg School District Three
                                 P. O. Box 267
                              Glendale, SC  29346
                               Phone:  579-3330
                              Mr. J. Lynn Harrill
                       Spartanburg School District Four
                                    Box 669
                              Woodruff, SC  29388
                               Phone:  476-3187

                             Dr. Douglas H. Ervin
                       Spartanburg School District Five
                                 P. O. Box 307
                               Duncan, SC  29334
                               Phone:  439-6326

                                Mr. John Reeves
                        Spartanburg School District Six
                          1493 W. O. Ezell Boulevard
                            Spartanburg, SC  29301
                               Phone:  576-4212
  $
                               Mr. Charles Ragin
                       Spartanburg School District Seven
                                    Box 970
                            Spartanburg, SC  29304
                               Phone:  585-2231


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                             Ms. Allidease Pollard
                          Sumter School District Two
                             492 N. Guignard Drive
                               Sumter, SC  29150
                               Phone:  469-6900

                                Mr. Dave Evans
                          Sumter School District #17
                                  Drawer 1180
                               Sumter, SC  29150
                               Phone:  469-8536


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                                Mr. Dean Walker
                         Union County School District
                                    Box 907
                               Union, SC  29379
                               Phone:  427-5624
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                            Mrs. Stiney O. Gardner
                      Williamsburg County School District
                               417 School Street
                             Kingstree, SC  29556
                               Phone:  354-5533
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS                         
-DOC-
                        SPECIAL EDUCATION COORDINATORS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

                              Mrs. Lillian Nance
                           Education Service Center
                           York School District One
                                 P. O. Box 770
                                York, SC  29745
                               Phone:  684-9326

                               Mr. Joe L. Gordon
                           York School District Two
                                 P. O. Box 99
                                402 Knox Street
                               Clover, SC  29710
                               Phone:  222-7191
                            Dr. Gwen Johnson Kodad
                          York School District Three
                              P. O. Drawer 10072
                             Rock Hill, SC  29730
                               Phone:  328-1809

                               Mr. Dan H. Jones
                           York School District Four
                                    Box 369
                             Fort Mill, SC  29715
                               Phone:  548-2527

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Mr. John J. Fontana, Director
             Abbeville County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                 P.O. Box 921
                              111 South Main St.
                             Abbeville, SC  29620
                                   459-9661
                                   459-9662

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Mr. Terrance D. Brown, Director
               Aiken County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                             214 Newberry St., SW
                               Aiken, SC  29801
                                   648-5409
                                   649-1900

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist
        
                          Mr. Dave N. Heirs, Director
                Lowcountry Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                    Box 549
                                Memorial Avenue
                             Allendale, SC  29924
                                   584-4238

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                          Mr. Doyle W. Kay, Director
               Anderson/Oconee Alcohol and Drug Abuse Commission
                              212 S. Main Street
                              Anderson, SC  29624
                                   225-1468 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Mr. Richard S. Fowler, Director
                Tri-County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                             Mid Town Office Plaza
                              Bamberg, SC  29003
                                   245-4360

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Ms. Cheryl A. Perry, Director
             Barnwell County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                 P.O. Box 1042
                              Barnwell, SC  29812
                                   259-3511

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                         
-DOC-
                         ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                   Mr. Douglas H. Boyne, Executive Director
             Beaufort County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                  P.O. Box 311
                                1215 Prince St.
                              Beaufort, SC  29901
                                   525-7407

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                    Mr. Ernest Kennedy, Executive Director
             Berkeley County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                 P. O. Box 758
                               109 West Main St.
                           Moncks Corner, SC  29461
                                   761-8272

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Mr. Richard S. Fowler, Director
                Tri-County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                              111 West Bridge St.
                            St. Matthews, SC  29135
                                   874-2307

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Mr. Franklin L. Johnson, Director
                 Charleston County Substance Abuse Commission
                                P. O.  Box 2635
                              25 Courtenay Drive
                             Charleston, SC  29403
                                   723-7212

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Mr. David L. Forrester, Director
             Cherokee County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                            200 West Montgomery St.
                              Gaffney, SC  29340
                                   489-0247

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Ms. Deborah D. Graham, Director
              Chester County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                P. O.  Box 636
                                120 Saluda St.
                              Chester, SC  29706
                                   377-8111

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Ms. Janice Rozier, Acting Director
                   Tri-County Mental Health CenterPO Box 471
                             2000 Highway 15 North
                            Chesterfield, SC  29709
                                   623-2229

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                           Ms. Ann Kirven, Director
             Clarendon County Commission onAlcohol and Drug Abuse
                                 P. O. Box 361
                              14 North Church St.
                              Manning, SC  29102
                                   435-2121

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Mr. J. Scott Bagnal, Director
              Colleton County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                P. O. Box 1037
                                   Black St.
                             Walterboro, SC  29488
                                   549-9565

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Mr. Winston H. McElveen, Director
             Darlington County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                           510 East Carolina Avenue
                             Hartsville, SC  29550
                                   332-4156

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Mr. W. T. O'Connor, Director
           Marion/Dillon County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                             104 East Harrison St.
                               Dillon, SC  29536
                                   774-6591

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Mr. Samuel J. Miller, Director
             Dorchester County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                              535 North Cedar St.
                            Summerville, SC  29483
                                   871-4790

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Mr. David Matthews, Director
       Greenwood/Edgefield/McCormick Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                           400 Church St., Room 112
                             Edgefield, SC  29824
                                   637-5388

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Mr. Marion C. Smith, Director
                  Fairfield County Substance Abuse Commission
                                 P. O. Box 388
                           107 North Vanderhorst St.
                             Winnsboro, SC  29180
                                   635-2335

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Mr. Charles Lee Young, Director
              Florence County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                P. O. Box 4881
                               604 Gregg Avenue
                              Florence, SC  29502
                                   665-9349

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Mr. William J. Walker, Director
              Georgetown County Alcohol and Drug Abuse Commission
                                123 Winyah St.
                             Georgetown, SC  29440
                                   546-6081
                                   527-1697

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                   Mr. Claude T. Wilson, Executive Director
            Greenville County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                            3336 Old Buncombe Road
                             Greenville, SC  29609
                                   242-1781

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Mr. David D. Matthews, Director
      Greenwood/Edgefield/McCormick Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                1132 Spring St.
                             Greenwood, SC  29646
                                   227-1001

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                          Mr. Dave N. Hiers, Director
                Lowcountry Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                 P. O. Box 885
                               Courthouse Annex
                              Hampton, SC  29924
                                   943-2800

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Mr. C. Lyle Mishoe, Director
               Horry County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                 P. O. Box 136
                                 1004 Bell St.
                               Conway, SC  29526
                                   248-6291
                                   448-1474

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                          Mr. Dave N. Hiers, Director
                Lowcountry Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                P. O. Box 1362
                                  Wilson St.
                             Ridgeland, SC  29936
                                   726-5996

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Mr. Paul W. Napper, Director
              Kershaw County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                  P. O. Box 416
                                1104 Church St.
                               Camden, SC  29020
                                   432-6902
                                   432-6281

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Mr. Walter J. Quinn, Director
            Lancaster County Commission on  Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                P. O. Box 1627
                                 114 Main St.
                             Lancaster, SC  29720
                                   285-6911

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Dr. Luther M. Mundy, Director
              Laurens County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                 P. O. Box 843
                             216 West Laurens St.
                              Laurens, SC  29360
                                   984-0574

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Mr. H. Daly Alexander, Director
                Lee County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                 P. O. Box 302
                       Lee County Court House, Room 300
                            Bishopville, SC  29010
                            484-5341 Ext. 51 or 58

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist
 
                        Mr. David R. Jameson, Director
               Lexington/Richland Alcohol and Drug Abuse Council
                           134 North Hospital Drive
                           West Columbia, SC  29169
                                   796-6460

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Mr. W. T. O'Connor, Director
           Marion/Dillon County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                               103 Court Street
                               Marion, SC  29571
                                   423-5310

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Mr. William M. Harrington, Director
             Marlboro County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                               100 West Main St.
                           Bennettsville, SC  29512
                                   479-8328

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Mr. David D. Matthews, Director
       Greenwood/Edgefield/McCormick Commission on Alcohol & Drug Abuse
                                P. O.  Box 337
                             Hammond St. Extension
                             McCormick, SC  29835
                                   465-2631

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHY CAN FOODS?                                
-DOC-
                                WHY CAN FOODS?
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Canning can be a safe and economical way to preserve quality food at home. 
Disregarding the value of your labor, canning homegrown food may save you half
the cost of buying commercially canned food.  Canning favorite and special
products to be enjoyed by family and friends is a fulfilling experience and a
source of pride for many people.

Many vegetables begin losing some of their vitamins when harvested.  Nearly
half the vitamins may be lost within a few days unless the fresh produce is
cooled or preserved.  Within 1 to 2 weeks, even refrigerated produce loses half
or more of its vitamins.  The heating process during canning destroys from one-
third to one-half of vitamins A and C, thiamin, and riboflavin.  Once canned,
additional losses of these sensitive vitamins are from 5 to 20 percent each
year.  The amounts of other vitamins, however, are only slightly lower in 
canned compared with fresh food.  If vegetables are handled properly and canned
promptly after harvest they can be more nutritious than fresh produce sold in
local stores.  

The advantages of home canning are lost when you start with poor quality fresh
foods; when jars fail to seal properly; when food spoils; and when flavors,
texture, color, and nutrients deteriorate during prolonged storage.  The
information  that follows explains many of these problems and recommends ways
to minimize them.

                                 Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOW CANNING PRESERVES FOODS                          
-DOC-
                          HOW CANNING PRESERVES FOODS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

The high percentage of water in most fresh foods makes them very perishable. 
They spoil or lose their quality for several reasons:
     - growth of undesirable microorganisms--bacteria, mold, and yeast
     - activity of food enzymes
     - reactions with oxygen
     - moisture loss

Microorganisms live and multiply quickly on the surfaces of fresh food and on
the inside of bruised, insect-damaged, and diseased food.  Oxygen and enzymes
are present throughout fresh food tissues.  Proper canning practices include:
     - carefully selecting and washing fresh food
     - peeling some fresh foods
     - hot packing many foods
     - adding acids (vinegar or lemon juice) to some foods
     - using acceptable jars and self-sealing lids
     - processing jars in boiling-water canner or pressure canner for the      
       correct period of time

Collectively, these practices remove oxygen; destroy enzymes; prevent the
growth of undesirable bacteria, yeasts, and molds; and help form a high vacuum
in jars.  Good vacuums form tight seals which keep liquid in and air and
microorganisms out.

                                 Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning" 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BACTERIA AND FOOD PRESERVATION                        
-DOC-
                        BACTERIA AND FOOD PRESERVATION
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Growth of the bacterium Clostridium botulinum in canned food may cause
botulism--a deadly form of food poisoning.  These bacteria exist either as
spores or as vegetative cells.  The spores, which are comparable to plant
seeds, can survive harmlessly in soil and water for many years.  When ideal
conditions exist for growth, the spores produce vegetative cells which multiply
rapidly and may produce deadly toxin within 3 to 4 days of growth in an
environment consisting of:
     - a moist, low-acid food
     - a temperature between 40 degrees and 120 degrees Fahrenheit
     - less than two percent oxygen

Botulinum spores are on most fresh food surfaces.  Because they grow only in
the absence of air, they are harmless on fresh foods.

Most bacteria, yeasts, and molds are difficult to remove from food surfaces. 
Washing fresh food reduces their numbers only slightly.  Peeling root crops,
underground stem crops, and tomatoes reduces their numbers greatly.  Blanching 
also helps, but the vital controls are the method of canning and making sure
the recommended research-based process times are used.

The processing times in these guides ensure destruction of the largest expected
number of heat-resistant microorganisms in home-canned foods.  Properly
sterilized canned food will be free of spoilage if lids seal and jars are
stored below 95 degrees Fahrenheit.  Storing jars at 50 degrees to 70 degrees
Fahrenheit enhances retention of quality.

                                 Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning" 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FOOD ACIDITY AND PROCESSING METHODS                      
-DOC-
                      FOOD ACIDITY AND PROCESSING METHODS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Whether food should be processed in a pressure canner or boiling-water canner
to control botulinum bacteria depends on the acidity in the food.  Acidity may
be natural, as in most fruits, or added, as in pickled food.  Low-acid canned
foods contain too little acidity to prevent the growth of these bacteria.  Acid
foods contain enough acidity to block their growth, or destroy them more
rapidly when heated.  The term "pH" is a measure of acidity; the lower its
value, the more acid the food.  The acidity level in foods can be increased by
adding lemon juice, citric acid, or vinegar.

Low acid foods have pH values higher than 4.6.  They include red meats,
seafood, poultry, milk, and all fresh vegetables except for most tomatoes. 
Most mixtures of low-acid and acid foods also have pH values above 4.6 unless
their recipes include enough lemon juice, cirtic acid, or vinegar to make them
acid foods.  Acid foods have a pH of 4.6 or lower.  They include fruits,
pickles, sauerkraut, jams, jellies, marmalades, and fruit butters.

Although tomatoes usually are considered an acid food, some are now known to
have pH values slightly above 4.6.  Figs also have pH values slightly above 
4.6.  Therefore, if they are to be canned as acid foods, these products must be
acidified to a pH of 4.6 or lower with lemon juice or citric acid.  Properly
acidified tomatoes and figs are acid foods and can safely be processed in a
boiling water canner.

Botulinum spores are very hard to destroy at boiling-water temperatures; the
higher the canner temperature, the more easily they are destroyed.  Therefore,
all low-acid foods should be sterilized at temperatures of 240 degrees to 250
degrees, attainable with pressure canners operated at 10 to 15 PSIG.  PSIG
means pounds per square inch of pressure as measured by gauge.  At these
temperatures, the time needed to destroy bacteria in low-acid canned food
ranges from 20 to 100 minutes.  The exact time depends on the kind of food
being canned, the way it is packed into jars, and the size of jars.  The time
needed to safely process low-acid foods in a boiling water canner ranges from 7
to ll hours; the time needed to process acid foods in boiling water varies from
5 to 85 minutes.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ADJUSTING PROCESSING FOR HIGH ALTITUDES                    
-DOC-
                    ADJUSTING PROCESSING FOR HIGH ALTITUDES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Using the process time for canning food at sea level may result in spoilage if
you live at altitudes of 2,000 feet or more.  Water boils at lower temperatures
as altitude increases.  Lower boiling temperatures are less effective for
killing bacteria.  Increasing the process time or canner pressure compensates
for lower boiling temperatures.  Therefore, when you use these guidelines,
select the proper processing time or canner pressure for the altitude where you
live.  If you do not know the altitude, contact your local county Extension
agent.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EQUIPMENT AND METHODS NOT RECOMMENDED                     
-DOC-
                     EQUIPMENT AND METHODS NOT RECOMMENDED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Open-kettle canning and the processing of freshly filled jars in conventional
ovens, microwave ovens, and dishwashers are not recommended, because these
practices do not prevent all risks of spoilage.  Steam canners are not
recommended, because processing times for use with current models have not been
adequately researched.  Because steam canners may not heat foods in the same
manner as boiling-water canners, their use with boiling-water process times may
result in spoilage.  So-called canning powders are useless as preservatives and
do not replace the need for proper heat processing.  Jars with wire bails and
glass caps make attractive antiques or storage containers for dry food
ingredients, but are not recommended for use in canning.  One-piece zinc
porcelain-lined caps are also no longer recommended.  Both glass and zinc caps
use flat rubber rings for sealing jars, but too often fail to seal properly.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SELECTING FOOD FOR CANNING                          
-DOC-
                          SELECTING FOOD FOR CANNING
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Begin with good-quality fresh foods suitable for canning.  Quality varies among
varieties of fruits and vegetables.  Many county Extension offices can
recommend varieties best suited for canning.  Examine food carefully for
freshness and wholesomeness.  Discard diseased and moldy food.  Trim small
diseased lesions or spots from food.

Can fruits and vegetables picked from your garden or purchased from nearby
producers when the products are at their peak of quality--within 6 to 12 hours
after harvest for most vegetables.  For best quality, apricots, nectarines,
peaches, pears, and plums should be ripened one or more days between harvest
and canning.  If you must delay the canning of other fresh produce, keep it in
a shady, cool place.

Fresh home-slaughtered red meats and poultry should be chilled and canned
without delay.  Do not can meat from sickly or diseased animals.  Ice fish and
seafood after harvest, eviscerate immediately, and can them within 2 days.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MAINTAINING COLOR AND FLAVOR IN CANNED FOODS                 
-DOC-
                 MAINTAINING COLOR AND FLAVOR IN CANNED FOODS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

To maintain good natural color and flavor in stored canned food, you must:
     - Remove oxygen from food tissues and jars
     - Quickly destroy the food enzymes
     - Obtain high jar vacuums and airtight jar seals

Follow these guidelines to ensure that your canned foods retain optimum colors
and flavors during processing and storage:
     - Use only high-quality foods which are at the proper maturity and which  
       are free of diseases and bruises.
     - Use the hot-pack method, especially with acid foods to be processed in  
       boiling water. 
     - Don't unnecessarily expose prepared foods to air.  Can them as soon as  
       possible.
     - While preparing a canner load of jars, keep peeled, halved, quartered,  
       sliced, or diced apples, apricots, nectarines, peaches, and pears in a  
       solution of 3 grams (3000 milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of cold 
       water.  This procedure is also useful in maintaining the natural color  
       of mushrooms and potatoes, and for preventing stem-end discoloration in
       cherries and grapes.  You can get ascorbic acid in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric  
         acid powder is sold in supermarkets, but it is less effective in      
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,      
         follow the manufacturer's directions.
     - Fill hot foods into jars and adjust headspace as specified in recipes.
     - Tighten screw bands securely, but if you are especially strong, not as  
       tight as possible.    
     - Process and cool jars.
     - Store the jars in a relatively cool, dark place, preferably between 50  
       degrees and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
     - Can no more food than you will use within a year.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ADVANTAGES OF HOT PACKING                           
-DOC-
                           ADVANTAGES OF HOT PACKING
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Many fresh foods contain from 10 percent to more than 30 percent air.  How long
canned food retains high quality depends on how much air is removed from food
before jars are sealed.  

Raw packing is the practice of filling jars tightly with freshly prepared, but
unheated food.  Such foods, especially fruit, will float in the jars.  The
entrapped air in and around the food may cause discoloration within 2 to 3
months of storage.  Raw packing is more suitable for vegetables processed in a
pressure canner.

Hot packing is the practice of heating freshly prepared food to boiling,
simmering it 3 to 5 minutes, and promptly filling jars loosely with the boiled
food.  Whether food has been hot packed or raw packed, the juice, syrup, or
water to be added to the foods should also be heated to boiling before adding
it to the jars.  This practice helps to remove air from food tissues, shrinks
food, helps keep the food from floating in the jars, increases vacuum in sealed
jars, and improves shelf life.  Preshrinking food permits filling more food
into each jar.
Hot packing is the best way to remove air and is the preferred pack style for
foods processed in a boiling-water canner.  At first, the color of hot-packed
foods may appear no better than that of raw-packed foods, but within a short
storage period, both color and flavor of hot-packed foods will be superior.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CONTROLLING HEADSPACE                             
-DOC-
                             CONTROLLING HEADSPACE
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

The unfilled space above the food in a jar and below its lid is termed
HEADSPACE.  Directions for canning specify leaving 1/4-inch for jams and
jellies, 1/2-inch for fruits and tomatoes to be processed in boiling water, and
from 1- to 1-1/4-inches in low-acid foods to be processed in a pressure canner. 
This space is needed for expansion of food as jars are processed, and for
forming vacuums in cooled jars.  The extent of expansion is determined by the
air content in the food and by the processing temperature.  Air expands greatly
when heated to high temperatures; the higher the temperature, the greater the
expansion.  Foods expand less than air when heated. 

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALL ABOUT JARS                                
-DOC-
                                ALL ABOUT JARS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Food may be canned in glass jars or metal containers.  Metal containers can be
used only once.  They require special sealing equipment and are much more
costly than jars.

Regular and wide-mouth Mason-type, threaded, home-canning jars with self-
sealing lids are the best choice.  They are available in 1/2 pint, pint, 1-1/2
pint, quart, and 1/2 gallon sizes.  The standard jar mouth opening is 2-3/8
inches.  Wide-mouth jars have openings of about 3 inches, making them more
easily filled and emptied.  Half-gallon jars may be used for canning very acid
juices.  With careful use and handling, Mason jars may be reused many times,
requiring only new lids each time.  When lids are used properly, jar seals and
vacuums are excellent.

Most commercial mayonnaise jars may be used for canning acid foods in a
boiling-water canner, with only occasional seal failure or jar breakage.  A
Mason jar, however, has a wider and more uniform sealing surface and its glass
can withstand greater temperature and pressure changes without breaking.  You
should, therefore, use Mason jars for all pressure-canned foods.  All jars must
be free of cracks and chips, especially on the sealing surface, to prevent seal
failure and breakage.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JAR CLEANING                                 
-DOC-
                                 JAR CLEANING
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Before reuse, wash empty jars in hot water with detergent and rinse well by
hand, or wash in a dishwasher.  Unrinsed detergent may cause unnatural flavors
and colors.  These washing methods do not sterilize jars.  Scale or hard-water
films on jars are easily removed by soaking jars several hours in a solution
containing 1 cup of vinegar (5 percent) per gallon of water.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STERILIZATION OF EMPTY JARS                          
-DOC-
                          STERILIZATION OF EMPTY JARS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

All jams, jellies, and pickled products processed 10 minutes or less should be
filled into sterile empty jars.  To sterilize empty jars, put them right side
up on the rack in a boiling-water canner.  Fill the canner and jars with hot
(not boiling) water to 1 inch above the tops of the jars.  Boil 10 minutes at
altitudes of less than 1000 feet.  At higher elevations, boil 1 additional
minute for each additional 1000 feet elevation.  Remove and drain hot
sterilized jars one at a time.  Save the hot water for processing filled jars. 
Fill jars with food, add lids, and tighten screw bands.

Empty jars used for vegetables, meats, and fruits to be processed in a pressure
canner need not be presterilized.  It is also unnecessary to presterilize jars
for fruits, tomatoes, and pickled or fermented foods that will be processed 10
minutes or longer in a boiling-water canner.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LID SELECTION, PREPARATION, AND USE                      
-DOC-
                      LID SELECTION, PREPARATION, AND USE
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

The common self-sealing lid consists of a flat metal lid held in place by a
metal screw band during processing.  The flat lid is crimped around its bottom
edge to form a trough, which is filled with a colored gasket compound.  When
jars are processed, the lid gasket softens and flows slightly to cover the jar
sealing surface, yet air is allowed to escape from the jar.  The gasket then
forms an airtight seal as the jar cools.  Gaskets in unused lids work well for
at least 3 years from the date of manufacture.  The gasket compound in older
unused lids may fail to seal on jars.

Buy only the quantity of lids you will use in a year.  To ensure a good seal,
carefully follow the manufacturer's directions in preparing lids for use. 
Examine all metal lids carefully.  Do not use old, dented, or deformed lids, or
lids with gaps or other defects in the sealing gasket.

After filling jars with food, release air bubbles by inserting a flat plastic
(not metal) spatula between the food and the jar.  Slowly turn the jar and move
the spatula up and down to allow air bubbles to escape.  Adjust the headspace
and then clean the jar rim (sealing surface) with a dampened paper towel. 
Place the lid, gasket down, onto the cleaned jar-sealing surface.  Uncleaned
jar-sealing surfaces may cause seal failures.

Fit the metal screw band over the flat lid.  Use your thumb and two fingertips
to turn the screw band very gently until you feel the slightest resistance. 
Then reposition your hand and tighten the screw band another 1 1/2-inches.

Practice the following procedure until you recognize the proper lid tightness:
     1. Add the screw band with you finger tips until you feel the slightest   
        resistance.
     2. Draw a continuous vertical line from the band to the jar.
     3. Measure and make another vertical line 1 1/2-inches to the left on the 
        jar.
     4. Tighten again until the line on the band meets the new mark on the jar.

DO NOT RETIGHTEN LIDS AFTER PROCESSING JARS.  As jars cool, the contents in the
jar contract, pulling the self-sealing lid firmly against the jar to form a
high vacuum.
     - If rings are too loose, liquid may escape from jars during processing,  
       and seals may fail.
     - If rings are too tight, air cannot vent during processing, and food will
       discolor during storage.  Overtightening also may cause lids to buckle  
       and jars to break, especially with raw-packed, pressure-processed food.

Screw bands are not needed on stored jars.  They can be removed easily after
jars are cooled.  When removed, washed, dried, and stored in a dry area, screw
bands may be used many times.  If left on stored jars, they become difficult to
remove, often rust, and may not work properly again.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COOLING JARS                                 
-DOC-
                                 COOLING JARS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

When you remove hot jars from a canner, DO NOT RETIGHTEN THEIR JAR LIDS. 
Retightening of hot lids may cut through the gasket and cause seal failures. 
Cool the jars at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours.  Jars may be cooled on
racks or towels to minimize heat damage to counters.  The food level and liquid
volume of raw-packed jars will be noticeably lower after cooling.  Air is
exhausted during processing and food shrinks.  If a jar loses excessive liquid
during processing, do not open it to add more liquid.  Check jars to be sure
they have sealed.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SELECTING THE CORRECT PROCESSING TIME                     
-DOC-
                     SELECTING THE CORRECT PROCESSING TIME
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

When canning in boiling water, more processing time is needed for most raw-
packed foods and for quart jars than is needed for hot-packed foods and pint
jars.  

To destroy microorganisms in acid foods processed in a boiling-water canner,
you must:
     - Process jars for the correct number of minutes in boiling water
     - Cool the jars at room temperature

     THE FOOD MAY SPOIL IF you fail to add process time for lower boiling-water
     temperatures at altitudes above 2,000 feet, process for fewer minutes than
     specified, or cool jars in cold water.

To destroy microorganisms in low-acid foods processed with a pressure canner,
you must:
     - Process the jars for the correct number of minutes at 240 degrees       
       Fahrenheit (10 PSIG - pounds per square inch of pressure as measured by
       gauge)or 250 degrees Fahrenheit (15 PSIG).
     - Allow canner to cool at room temperature until it is completely         
       depressurized.

     THE FOOD MAY SPOIL IF you fail to select the proper process times for     
     altitudes above 2,000 feet, fail to exhaust canners properly, process at  
     lower pressure than specified, process for fewer minutes than specified or 
     cool the canner with water.

It is important to know your approximate elevation or altitude above sea level
in order to determine a safe processing time for canned foods.  Since the
boiling temperature of liquid is lower at higher elevations, it is critical
that additional time be given for the safe processing of foods at altitudes
above sea level.  If you are unsure about the altitude where you will be
canning foods, consult your county Extension agent.

This set of directions includes processing times with altitude adjustments for
each product in up to three different canners.  Choose the times for the canner
you will be using.  Process times for half-pint and pint jars are the same, as
are times for 1 1/2 pint and quart jars.  For some products, you have a choice
of processing at 5, 10, 15 PSIG.  In these cases, choose the canner pressure
(PSIG) you wish to use and match it with your pack style (raw or hot) and jar
size to find the correct process time.  To help you find the type of canner you
are using all processing times for boiling-water canners are marked with a
border ///////////, weighted-gauge canners @@@@@@@@@@@, and dial-gauge canners
###########.   An example of how to select the proper process time follows.

EXAMPLE OF USING TABLES FOR LOCATING PROPER PROCESS TIMES

Suppose you are canning peaches as a hot pack in quarts at 2,500 feet above sea
level.  Since specific process times may vary with (1) the type of canner used, 
(2) the style of pack, (3) the jar size, and (4) altitude where you live,
follow these steps to find the recommended process time from one of the three
following tables:

     1.  Locate the correct table for your type of canner.  
     2.  Look down the column labeled "Style of Pack" on the left side of the  
         table and locate the correct line for hot-pack and quart jars.
     3.  Look across the top to find your altitude.  To determine the correct  
         time for you, look down the altitude column until you meet the row
         you selected in Step 2.  If using a boiling-water canner, you would   
         process 30 minutes.

     4.  If using a dial-gauge pressure canner, you would process 10 minutes at
         7 PSIG.
     5.  However, if you have a weighted-gauge pressure canner, process 10     
         minutes at 10 PSIG.


//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      PEACHES                                /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ___________________________________________________    /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1000-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints      20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
/           Quarts     25 min.      30 min.        35 min.        40 min.    /
/                                                                            /
/  Raw      Pints      25 min.      30 min.        35 min.        40 min.    /
/           Quarts     30 min.      35 min.        40 min.        45 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                         CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION  
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      PEACHES                                #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2000-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  10 min.    6 lb.       7 lb.         8 lb.          9 lb.    #
#  and    or                                                                 #
#  Raw   Quarts                                                              #
##############################################################################








                                         CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      PEACHES                                @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          10 min.          5 lb.               10 lb.       @
@  and       or                                                              @
@  Raw      Quarts                                                           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DIFFERENCES IN CANNERS                             
-DOC-
                            DIFFERENCES IN CANNERS 
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist 
 
Equipment for heat-processing home-canned food is of two main types--boiling 
water canners and pressure canners.  Most are designed to hold seven quart jars
or eight to nine pints.  Small pressure canners hold four quarts; some large 
pressure canners hold 18 pints in two layers, but hold only seven quarts. 
 
Low-acid foods must be processed in a pressure canner to be free of botulism 
risks.  Although pressure canners may also be used for processing acid foods, 
boiling-water canners are recommended for this purpose because they are faster. 

A pressure canner would require from 55 to 100 minutes to can a load of jars; 
the total time for canning most acid foods in boiling water varies from 25 to 
60 minutes.  A boiling-water canner loaded with filled jars requires about 20 
to 30 minutes of heating before its water begins to boil.  A loaded pressure 
canner requires about 12 to 15 minutes of heating before it begins to vent; 
another 10 minutes to vent the canner; another 5 minutes to pressurize the 
canner; another 8 to 10 minutes to process the acid food; and finally another 
20 to 60 minutes to cool the canner before removing jars. 
 
                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BOILING WATER CANNERS                             
-DOC-
                             BOILING WATER CANNERS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

These canners are made of aluminum or porcelain-covered steel.  They have
removable perforated racks and fitted lids.  The canner must be deep enough so
that at least 1 inch of briskly boiling water will be over the tops of jars
during processing.  Some boiling-water canners do not have flat bottoms.  A
flat bottom must be used on an electric range.  Either a flat or ridged bottom
can be used on a gas burner.  To ensure uniform processing of all jars with an
electric range, the canner should be no more than 4 inches wider in diameter
than the element on which it is heated. 

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
USING BOILING WATER CANNERS                          
-DOC-
                          USING BOILING WATER CANNERS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Follow these steps for successful boiling-water canning:
     1.  Fill the canner halfway with water.
     2.  Preheat water to about 140 degrees for raw-packed foods and to 180    
         degrees for hot-packed foods.
     3.  Load filled jars, fitted with lids, into the canner rack and use the  
         handles to lower the rack into the water; or fill the canner, one jar 
         at a time, with a jar lifter.
     4.  Add more boiling water, if needed, so the water level is at least 1   
         inch above jar tops.
     5.  Turn heat to its highest position until water boils vigorously.
     6.  Set a timer for the minutes required for processing the food.
     7.  Cover with the canner lid and lower the heat setting to maintain a    
         gentle boil throughout the process schedule.
     8.  Add more boiling water, if needed, to keep the water level above the
         jars.
     9.  When jars have been boiled for the recommended time, turn off the heat
         and remove the canner lid.

    10.  Using a jar lifter, remove the jars and place them on a towel, leaving
         at least 1-inch spaces between the jars during cooling. 

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRESSURE CANNERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRESSURE CANNERS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Pressure canners for use in the home have been extensively redesigned in recent
years.  Models made before 1970's were heavy-walled kettles with clamp-on or
turn-on lids.  They were fitted with a dial gauge, a vent port in the form of a
petcock or counterweight, and a safety fuse.  Modern pressure canners are
lightweight, thin-walled kettles; most have turn-on lids.  They have a jar
rack, gasket, dial or weighted gauge, automatic vent/cover lock, vent port
(steam vent) to be closed with a counterweight or weighted gauge, and safety
fuse.

Pressure does not destroy microorganisms, but high temperatures applied for a
certain period of time will kill microorganisms.  The success of destroying all
microorganisms capable of growing in canned food is based on the temperature
obtained in pure steam, free of air, at sea level.  At sea level, a canner
operated at 10 PSIG (pounds per square inch of pressure as measured by gauge)
provides an internal temperature of 240 degrees Fahrenheit.  



Two serious errors in temperatures obtained in pressure canners occur because:
     1.  INTERNAL CANNER TEMPERATURES ARE LOWER AT HIGHER ALTITUDES.  To       
         correct this error, canners must be operated at the increased         
         pressures specified for appropriate altitude ranges.
     2.  AIR TRAPPED IN A CANNER LOWERS THE TEMPERATURE OBTAINED AT 5, 10, OR  
         15 POUNDS OF PRESSURE AND RESULTS IN UNDERPROCESSING.  The highest    
         volume of air trapped in a canner occurs in processing raw-packed     
         foods in dial-gauge canners.  These canners do not vent air during
         processing.  To be safe, all types of pressure canners must be vented
         10 minutes before they are pressurized.

To vent a canner, leave the vent port uncovered on newer models or manually
open petcocks on some older models.  Heating the filled canner with its lid
locked into place boils water and generates steam that escapes through the
petcock or vent port.  When steam first escapes, set a timer for 10 minutes. 
After venting 10 minutes, close the petcock or place the counterweight or
weighted gauge over the vent port to pressurize the canner.

Weighted-gauge models exhaust tiny amounts of air and steam each time their
gauge rocks or jiggles during processing.  They control pressure precisely and
need neither watching during processing nor checking for accuracy.  The sound
of the weight rocking or jiggling indicates that the canner is maintaining the
recommended pressure and needs no further attention until the load has been 
processed for the set time.  The single disadvantage of weighted-gauge canners
is that they cannot correct precisely for higher altitudes.  At altitudes above
1,000 feet, they must be operated at canner pressures of 10 instead of 5, or 15
instead of 10 PSIG.

Check dial gauges for accuracy before use each year and replace if they read
high by more than 1 pound at 5, 10, or 15 pounds of pressure.  Low readings
cause overprocessing and may indicate that the accuracy of the gauge is
unpredictable.  Gauges may be checked at most county Extension offices.

Handle canner lid gaskets carefully and clean them according to the
manufacturer's directions.  Nicked or dried gaskets will allow steam leaks
during pressurization of canners.  Keep gaskets clean between uses and lightly
coat with vegetable oil each year.

Lid safety fuses are thin metal inserts or rubber plugs designed to relieve
excessive pressure (above 30 PSIG) from the canner.  Do not pick at or scratch
fuses while cleaning lids.

Replacement gauges and other parts for canners are often available at stores
offering canner equipment or from canner manufacturers.  When ordering parts,
give your canner model number and describe the parts needed.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
USING PRESSURE CANNERS                            
-DOC-
                            USING PRESSURE CANNERS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Follow these steps for successful pressure canning:
     1.  Put 2 to 3 inches of hot water in the canner.  Place filled jars on   
         the rack, using a jar lifter.  Fasten canner lid securely.
     2.  Leave weight off vent port or open petcock.  Heat at the highest      
         setting until steam flows from the petcock or vent port.
     3.  Maintain high heat setting, exhaust steam 10 minutes, and then place  
         weight on vent port or close petcock.  The canner will pressurize   
         during the next 3 to 5 minutes.
     4.  Start timing the process when the pressure reading on the dial gauge  
         indicates that the recommended pressure has been reached, or when     
         weighted gauges begin to jiggle or rock.
     5.  Regulate heat under the canner to maintain a steady pressure at or    
         slightly above the correct gauge pressure.  Quick and large pressure  
         variations during processing may cause unnecessary liquid losses from 
         jars.  Weighted gauges on Mirro canners should jiggle about 2 or 3    
         times per minute.  On Presto canners, they should rock slowly         
         throughout the process.
     6.  When the timed process is completed, turn off the heat, remove the    
         canner from heat if possible, and let the canner depressurize.  DO NOT
         FORCE-COOL THE CANNER.  If you cool it with cold running water in a   
         sink, or open the vent port before the canner depressurizes by itself 
         liquid will spurt from jars, causing low liquid levels and jar seal   
         failures.  Force-cooling may also warp the canner lid, causing steam  
         leaks.  Depressurization of older models should be timed.  Standard   
         size heavy-walled canners require about 30 minutes when loaded with   
         pints and 45 minutes with quarts.  Newer thin-walled canners cool more 
         rapidly and are equipped with vent locks.  These canners are          
         depressurized when their vent lock piston drops to a normal position.
     7.  After the vent port or petcock has been open for 2 minutes, unfasten  
         the lid and remove it carefully.  Lift the lid away from you so that  
         the steam does not burn your face.
     8.  Remove jars with a lifter, and place on a towel or cooling rack, if   
         desired.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TESTING JAR SEALS                               
-DOC-
                               TESTING JAR SEALS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

After cooling jars for 12 to 24 hours, remove the screw bands and test seals
with one of the following options:

     Option 1  Press the middle of the lid with a finger or thumb.  If the lid
               springs up when you release your finger, the lid is unsealed.

     Option 2  Tap the lid with the bottom of a teaspoon.  If it makes a dull  
               sound, the lid is not sealed.  If food is in contact with the   
               underside of the lid, it will also cause a dull sound.

     Option 3  Hold the jar at eye level and look across the lid.  The lid     
               should be concave (curved down slightly in the center).  If the
               center of the lid is either flat or bulging, it may not be
               sealed.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
REPROCESSING UNSEALED JARS                          
-DOC-
                          REPROCESSING UNSEALED JARS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

If a jar fails to seal, remove the lid and check the jar-sealing surface for
tiny nicks.  If necessary, change the jar, add a new, properly prepared lid,
and reprocess within 24 hours using the same processing time.  Headspace in
unsealed jars may be adjusted to 1-1/2-inch and jars could be frozen instead of
reprocessed.  Foods in single unsealed jars could be stored in the refrigerator
and consumed within several days.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STORING CANNED FOODS                             
-DOC-
                             STORING CANNED FOODS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

If lids are tightly vacuum sealed on cooled jars, remove screw bands, wash the
outside of the lid and jar to remove food residue; then rinse and dry jars. 
Label and date the jars and store them in a clean, cool, dark, dry place.  Do
not store jars above 95 degrees Fahrenheit or near hot pipes, a range, a
furnace, in an uninsulated attic, or in direct sunlight.  Under these
conditions, food will lose quality in a few weeks or months and may spoil.  
Dampness may corrode metal lids, break seals, and allow recontamination and
spoilage.

Accidental freezing of canned foods will not cause spoilage unless jars become
unsealed and recontaminated.  However, freezing and thawing may soften food. 
If jars must be stored where they may freeze, wrap them in newspapers, place
them in heavy cartons, and cover with more newspapers and blankets.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
IDENTIFYING AND HANDLING SPOILED CANNED FOOD                 
-DOC-
                 IDENTIFYING AND HANDLING SPOILED CANNED FOOD
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Do not taste food from a jar with an unsealed lid or food which shows signs of
spoilage.  You can more easily detect some types of spoilage in jars stored
without screw bands.  Growth of spoilage bacteria and yeast produces gas which
pressurizes the food, swells lids, and breaks jar seals.  As each stored jar is
selected for use, examine its lid for tightness and vacuum.  Lids with concave
centers have good seals.

Next, while holding the jar upright at eye level, rotate the jar and examine
its outside surface for streaks of dried food originating at the top of the
jar.  Look at the contents for rising air bubbles and unnatural color.

While opening the jar, smell for unnatural odors and look for spurting liquid
and cottonlike mold growth (white, blue, black, or green) on the top surface
and the underside of lid.

Carefully discard any jar of spoiled food to prevent possible illness to you,
your family, and pets.  Before discarding, detoxify spoiled low-acid food. 
Remove the jar lid; then place the jar, its contents, and the loose lid in hot
water and add enough water to cover the jar.  Boil all items in the water for
30 minutes.  Cool and discard jar contents in garbage or bury in soil.  This
will prevent accidental poisoning.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREPARING PICKLED AND FERMENTED FOODS                     
-DOC-
                     PREPARING PICKLED AND FERMENTED FOODS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

The many varieties of pickled and fermented foods are classified by types of
ingredients and methods of preparation.  

Regular dill pickles and sauerkraut are fermented and cured for about 3 weeks. 
Refrigerator dills are fermented for about 1 week.  During curing, colors and
flavors change and acidity increases.  Fresh-pack or quick-process pickles are
not fermented; some are brined several hours or overnight, then drained and
covered with vinegar and seasonings.  Fruit pickles usually are prepared by
heating fruit in a seasoned syrup acidified with either lemon juice or vinegar. 
Relishes are made from chopped fruits and vegetables that are cooked with
seasonings and vinegar.

Be sure to remove and discard a 1/16 inch slice from the blossom end of fresh
cucumbers. Blossoms may contain an enzyme which causes excessive softening of
pickles.

CAUTION:  THE LEVEL OF ACIDITY IN A PICKLED PRODUCT IS AS IMPORTANT TO ITS     
          SAFETY AS IT IS TO TASTE AND TEXTURE.
          - DO NOT ALTER VINEGAR, FOOD, OR WATER PROPORTIONS IN A RECIPE 
            OR USE A VINEGAR WITH UNKNOWN ACIDITY.

          - USE ONLY RECIPES WITH TESTED PROPORTIONS OF INGREDIENTS. 

          - THERE MUST BE A MINIMUM, UNIFORM LEVEL OF ACID THROUGHOUT A
            MIXED PRODUCT TO PREVENT THE GROWTH OF BOTULINUM BACTERIA.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INGREDIENTS FOR PICKLED AND FERMENTED FOODS                  
-DOC-
                  INGREDIENTS FOR PICKLED AND FERMENTED FOODS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Select fresh, firm fruits or vegetables free of spoilage.  Measure or weigh
amounts carefully, because the proportion of fresh food to other ingredients
will affect flavor and, in many instances, safety.

Use canning or pickling salt.  Noncaking material added to other salts may make
the brine cloudy.  Since flake salt varies in density, it is not recommended
for making pickled and fermented foods.  White granulated and brown sugars are
most often used.  Corn syrup and honey, unless called for in reliable recipes,
may produce undesirable flavors.  White distilled and cider vinegars of 5
percent acidity (50 grain) are recommended.  White vinegar is usually preferred
when light color is desirable, as is the case with fruits and cauliflower. 
                                
                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PICKLES WITH REDUCED SALT CONTENT                       
-DOC-
                       PICKLES WITH REDUCED SALT CONTENT
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Recipes for pickles with reduced sodium content may be accessed through the
menus: DIRECTIONS FOR CANNING SPECIFIC FOODS and then PICKLES.

In the making of fresh-pack pickles, cucumbers are acidified quickly with
vinegar.  Use only tested recipes formulated to produce the proper acidity. 
While these pickles may be prepared safely with reduced or no salt, their
quality may be noticeably lower.  You may wish to make small quantities first
to determine if you like them.

However, the salt used in making fermented sauerkraut and brined pickles not
only provides characteristic flavor but also is vital to safety and texture. 
In fermented foods, salt favors the growth of desirable bacteria while
inhibiting the growth of others.  CAUTION:  DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MAKE SAUERKRAUT
OR FERMENTED PICKLES BY CUTTING BACK ON THE SALT REQUIRED.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FIRMING AGENTS                                 
-DOC-
                                 FIRMING AGENTS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Alum may be safely used to firm fermented cucumbers.  However, it is
unnecessary and is not included in these recipes.  The calcium in lime
definitely improves pickle firmness.  Food-grade lime may be used as a lime-
water solution for soaking fresh cucumbers 12 to 24 hours before pickling them. 
Excess lime absorbed by the cucumbers must be removed to make safe pickles.  To
remove excess lime, drain the lime-water solution, rinse, and then resoak the
cucumbers in fresh water 1 hour.  Repeat the rinsing and soaking steps two more
times.  To further improve pickle firmness, you may process cucumber pickles
for 30 minutes in water at 180 degrees Fahrenheit.  This process also prevents
spoilage, but the water temperature should not fall below 180 degrees
Fahrenheit.  Use a candy or jelly thermometer to check the water temperature.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREVENTING SPOILAGE IN PICKLED OR FERMENTED FOOD               
-DOC-
               PREVENTING SPOILAGE IN PICKLED OR FERMENTED FOOD
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Pickle products are subject to spoilage from microorganisms, particularly
yeasts and molds, as well as enzymes that may affect flavor, color, and
texture.  Processing the pickles in a boiling-water canner will prevent both of
these problems.  Standard canning jars and self-sealing lids are recommended. 
Processing times and procedures will vary according to food acidity and the
size of food pieces. 

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREPARING BUTTERS, JAMS, JELLIES, AND MARMALADES               
-DOC-
               PREPARING BUTTERS, JAMS, JELLIES, AND MARMALADES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Sweet spreads are a class of foods with many textures, flavors, and colors. 
They all consist of fruits preserved mostly my means of sugar and they are
thickened or jellied to some extent.  Fruit jelly is a semi-solid mixture of
fruit juice and sugar that is clear and firm enough to hold its shape.  Other
spreads are made from crushed or ground fruit.

Jam also will hold its shape, but it is less firm than jelly.  Jam is made from
crushed or chopped fruits and sugar.  Jams made from a mixture of fruits are
usually called conserves, especially when they include citrus fruits, nuts,
raisins, or coconut.  Preserves are made of small, whole fruits or uniform-size
pieces of fruits in a clear, thick, slightly jellied syrup.  Marmalades are
soft fruit jellies with small pieces of fruit or citrus peel evenly suspended
in a transparent jelly.  Fruit butters are made from fruit pulp cooked with
sugar until thickened to a spreadable consistency.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INGREDIENTS FOR JAMS, JELLIES, AND MARMALADES                 
-DOC-
                 INGREDIENTS FOR JAMS, JELLIES, AND MARMALADES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

For proper texture, jellied fruit products require the correct combination of
fruit, pectin, acid, and sugar.  The fruit gives each spread its unique flavor
and color.  It also supplies the water to dissolve the rest of the necessary
ingredients and furnishes some or all of the pectin and acid.  Good-quality,
flavorful fruits make the best jellied products.

Pectins are substances in fruits that form a gel if they are in the right
combination with acid and sugar.  All fruits contain some pectin.  Apples,
crabapples, gooseberries, and some plums and grapes usually contain enough
natural pectin to form a gel.  Other fruits, such as strawberries, cherries,
and blueberries, contain little pectin and must be combined with other fruits
high in pectin or with commercial pectin products to obtain gels.  Because
fully ripened fruit has less pectin, one-fourth of the fruit used in making
jellies without added pectin should be underripe.

The proper level of acidity is critical to gel formation.  If there is too
little acid, the gel will never set; if there is too much acid, the gel will
lose liquid (weep).  For fruits low in acid, add lemon juice or other acid
ingredients as directed.  Commercial pectin products contain acids which help
ensure gelling.

Sugar serves as a preserving agent, contributes flavor, and aids in gelling. 
Cane and beet sugar are the usual sources of sugar for jelly or jam.  Corn
syrup and honey may be used to replace part of the sugar in recipes, but too
much will mask the fruit flavor and alter the gel structure.  Use tested
recipes for replacing sugar with honey and corn syrup.  Do not try to reduce
the amount of sugar in traditional recipes.  Too little sugar prevents gelling
and may allow yeasts and molds to grow. 

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JAMS AND JELLIES WITH REDUCED SUGAR                      
-DOC-
                      JAMS AND JELLIES WITH REDUCED SUGAR
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Jellies and jams that contain modified pectin, gelatin, or gums may be made
with noncaloric sweeteners.  Jams with less sugar than usual also may be made
with concentrated fruit pulp, which contains less liquid and less sugar. 
Recipes for jams and jellies with reduced sugar content may be accessed through
the menus:  DIRECTIONS FOR CANNING SPECIFIC FOODS and then JAMS AND JELLIES.

Two types of modified pectin are available for home use.  One gels with one-
third less sugar.  The other is a low-methoxyl pectin which requires a source
of calcium for gelling.  To prevent spoilage, jars of these products must be
processed longer in a boiling-water canner.  Recipes and processing times
provided with each modified pectin product must be followed carefully.  The
proportions of acids and fruits should not be altered, as spoilage may result.

Acceptably gelled refrigerator fruit spreads also may be made with gelatin and
sugar substitutes.  Such products spoil at room temperature, must be
refrigerated and eaten within one month.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREVENTING SPOILAGE OF JAMS AND JELLIES                    
-DOC-
                    PREVENTING SPOILAGE OF JAMS AND JELLIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Even though sugar helps preserve jellies and jams, molds can grow on the
surface of these products.  Research now indicates that the mold which people
usually scrape off the surface of jellies may not be as harmless as it seems. 
Mycotoxins have been found in some jars of jelly having surface mold growth. 
Mycotoxins are known to cause cancer in animals; their effects on humans are
still being researched.

Because of possible mold contamination, paraffin or wax seals are no longer
recommended for any sweet spread, including jellies.  To prevent growth of
molds and loss of good flavor or color, fill products hot, in sterile half-pint
Mason jars, leaving 1/4-inch headspace, seal with self-sealing lids, and
process 5 minutes in a boiling-water canner.  Correct process time at higher
elevations by adding 1 additional minute per 1000 ft. above sea level.  If
unsterile jars are used, the jars should be processed 10 minutes.  Use of
sterile jars is preferred, especially when fruits are low in pectin, since the
added 5-minute process time may cause weak gels.  

To sterilize empty jars, put them right side up on the rack in a boiling-water
canner.  Fill the canner and jars with hot (not boiling) water to 1 inch above
the tops of the jars.  Boil 10 minutes.  At higher elevations, boil 1
additional minute for each additional 1000 ft. elevation.  Remove and drain hot
sterilized jars one at a time.  Save the hot water for processing filled jars. 
Fill jars with hot jelly or jam, add lids, and tighten screw bands.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
METHODS OF MAKING JAMS AND JELLIES                      
-DOC-
                      METHODS OF MAKING JAMS AND JELLIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

The two basic methods of making jams and jellies are accessed through the
BUTTERS, JAMS, JELLIES AND MARMALADES menu by using the choices: MAKING JAM AND
JELLY WITHOUT PECTIN and MAKING JAM AND JELLY WITH PECTIN.

The standard method, which does not require added pectin, works best with
fruits naturally high in pectin.  The other method, which requires the use of
commercial liquid or powdered pectin, is much quicker.  The gelling ability of
various pectins differ.  To make uniformly gelled products, be sure to add the
quantities of commercial pectins to specific fruits as instructed on each
package.  Overcooking may break down pectin and prevent proper gelling.  When
using either method, make one batch at a time according to the recipe. 
Increasing the quantities often results in soft gels.  Stir constantly while
cooking to prevent burning.  Recipes are developed for specific jar sizes.  If
jellies are filled into larger jars, excessively soft products may result.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CANNING FOODS WITHOUT SUGAR                          
-DOC-
                          CANNING FOODS WITHOUT SUGAR
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

The cost of commercially canned special diet food often prompts interest in
preparing these products at home.  Some low-sugar and low-salt foods may be
easily and safely canned at home.  However, the color, flavor, and texture of
these foods may be different than expected and be less acceptable.

In canning regular fruits without sugar, it is very important to select fully
ripe but firm fruits of the best quality.  Prepare these as described for hot
packs, but use water or regular unsweetened fruit juices instead of sugar
syrup.  Juice made from the fruit being canned is best.  Blends of unsweetened
apple, pineapple, and white grape juice are also good for filling over solid
fruit pieces.  Adjust headspace and lids and use the processing recommendations
given for regular fruits.  Add sugar substitutes, if desired, when serving.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CANNING FOODS WITHOUT SALT                           
-DOC-
                          CANNING FOODS WITHOUT SALT 
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

The cost of commercially canned special diet food often prompts interest in
preparing these products at home.  Some low-sugar and low-salt foods may be
easily and safely canned at home.  However, the color, flavor, and texture of
these foods may be different than expected and be less acceptable.

To can tomatoes, vegetables, meats, poultry, and seafood, use the procedures
given in recipes for these items, but omit the salt.  In these products, salt
seasons the food, but is not necessary to ensure its safety.  Add salt
substitutes, if desired, when serving.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CANNING BABY FOOD                               
-DOC-
                               CANNING BABY FOOD
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

You may prepare any chunk-style or pureed fruit with or without sugar, using
the procedure for preparing and processing contained in the fruit recipes. 
Pack in half-pint, preferably, or pint jars and use the following processing
times:

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      BABY FOOD-FRUIT                        /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-2000 ft.      2001-6001 ft.      6001-8000 ft.   /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Half Pints     20 min.          25 min.            30 min.       /
/              or                                                            /
/             Pints                                                          /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

CAUTION:  DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CAN PUREED VEGETABLES, RED MEATS, OR POULTRY MEATS,
          BECAUSE PROPER PROCESSING TIMES FOR THESE PUREED FOODS HAVE NOT BEEN 
          DETERMINED FOR HOME USE.  

Instead, can and store these foods using the standard processing procedures;
puree or blend them at serving time.  Heat the blended foods to boiling, simmer
for 10 minutes, cool, and serve.  Store unused portions in the refrigerator and
use within 2 days for best quality.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOW MUCH SHOULD YOU CAN?                           
-DOC-
                           HOW MUCH SHOULD YOU CAN?
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

The amount of food to preserve for your family, either by canning or freezing,
should be based on individual choices.  The following table can serve as a
worksheet to plan how much food you should can for use within a year.

                 SUGGESTED PRESERVATION PLAN FOR CANNED FOODS
                           
                           Servings/week                My family needs
                             per person
               Recommended                 my      quarts/    weeks    Quarts/
Kind of Food   serving size   suggested  family     week    served/yr.  Year
_____________________________________________________________________________

FRUITS            1/2 cup        12             |
                                                |
JUICES             1 cup          7             |
                                                |
VEGETABLES        1/2 cup        16             |


MEATS & SEAFOOD   1/2 cup        14             |
                                                |
SOUPS              1 cup          2             |
                                                |
PICKLES & RELISH    --        1/2 cup           |
                                                |
FRUIT SPREADS       --        1/2 cup           |
                                                |
SAUCES            1/2 cup         2             |

Your family should make these decisions based on your preferences.
Mine = servings for the week per person multiplied by number in family who will 
       eat those foods.
Quarts/week = take the number of servings of CANNED FOOD needed by your family 
       and figure out how many cups will be needed for the week and divide by  
       four to determine how may quarts of that food you will need for the     
       week.
Total quarts = multiply the number of quarts you will need per week times the  
      number of weeks you will be using preserved foods (as opposed to fresh).

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT                           
-DOC-
                           SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Adding syrup to canned fruit helps to retain its flavor, color, and shape.  It
does not prevent spoilage of these foods.  The following guidelines for
preparing and using syrups offer a new "very light" syrup, which approximates
the natural sugar content of many fruits.  The sugar content in each of the
five syrups is increased by about 10 percent.  Quantities of water and sugar to
make enough syrup for a canner load of pints or quarts are provided in the
chart that follows.  You may wish to try a small amount of fruit packed in the
light syrups or the very heavy syrup to see if your family likes it.









                                         CONTINUE FOR SYRUP PROPORTIONS
PROPORTIONS FOR SYRUPS
                      Measures of Water and Sugar

                     For 9 Pt. Load*   For 7 Qt. Load 
Syrup       Approx.   Cups     Cups     Cups    Cups    Fruits commonly packed
Type        % Sugar   Water    Sugar    Water   Sugar          in syrup
______________________________________________________________________________
Very Light    10      6-1/2     3/4     10-1/2  1-1/4   Approximates natural
                                                        sugar level in most
                                                        fruits and adds    
                                                        fewest calories.
Light         20      5-3/4    1-1/2      9     2-1/4   Very sweet fruit.  
Medium        30      5-1/4    2-1/4     8-1/4  3-3/4   Sweet apples, sweet 
                                                        cherries, berries,
                                                        grapes.
Heavy         40        5      3-1/4     7-3/4  5-1/4   Tart apples, apricots,
                                                        sour cherries, goose-
                                                        berries, nectarines,
                                                        peaches, pears, plums.
Very Heavy    50      4-1/4    4-1/4     6-1/2  6-3/4   Very sour fruit.  
*This amount is also adequate for a 4-quart load.
PROCEDURE:  Heat water and sugar together.  Bring to a boil and pour over raw
fruits in jars.  For hot packs, bring water and sugar to boil, add fruit,
reheat to boil, and fill into jars immediately.

Other Sweeteners:  Light corn syrups or mild-flavored honey may be used to
replace up to half the table sugar called for in syrups.  Another alternative
for reduced sugar in canned fruits is accessed by selecting the BASIC CANNING
PROCEDURES menu and then the CANNED FOODS--SPECIAL DIETS AND BABY FOOD menu.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
   
                                                        
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE BUTTER                                 
-DOC-
                                 APPLE BUTTER
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

USE JONATHAN, WINESAP, STAYMAN, GOLDEN DELICIOUS, MACINTOSH, OR OTHER TASTY
APPLE VARIETIES FOR GOOD RESULTS.

8 pounds apples                        2-1/4 cups packed brown sugar
2 cups cider                           2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
2 cups vinegar                         1 tablespoons ground cloves
2-1/4 cups white sugar

Yield:  About 8 to 9 pints

PROCEDURE:  Wash, remove stems, quarter, and core fruit.  Cook slowly in cider
and vinegar until soft.  Press fruit through a colander, food mill, or
strainer.  Cook fruit pulp with sugar and spices, stirring frequently.  To test
for doneness, remove a spoonful and hold it away from steam for 2 minutes.  It
is done if the butter remains mounded on the spoon.  Another way to determine
when the butter is cooked adequately is to spoon a small quantity onto a plate. 
When a rim of hot liquid does not separate around the edge of the butter, it is
ready for canning.  Fill hot into sterile half-pint or pint jars, leaving 
1/4-inch headspace.  Quart jars need not be presterilized.  

TO STERILIZE JARS:  Put empty jars, right side up on the rack in a boiling-
water canner.  Fill the canner and jars with hot (not boiling) water to 1 inch
above the tops of the jars.  Boil 10 minutes at altitudes of less than 1000
feet.  At higher elevations, boil 1 additional minute for each additional 1000
feet elevation.  Remove and drain hot sterilized jars one at a time.  Save the
water for processing filled jars.  

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      APPLE BUTTER                           /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size     0-1000 ft.      1001-5000 ft.     5001-8000 ft.     /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Half-Pints    5 min.           10 min.           15 min.         / 
/           or Pints                                                         /
/                                                                            /
/           Quarts       10 min.           15 min.           20 min.         /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE JUICE                                  
-DOC-
                                  APPLE JUICE
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUALITY:  Good quality apple juice is made from a blend of varieties.  For best
results, buy fresh juice from a local cider maker within 24 hours after it has
been pressed.

PROCEDURE:  Refrigerate juice for 24 to 48 hours.  Without mixing, carefully
pour off clear liquid and discard sediment.  Strain clear liquid through a
paper coffee filter or double layer of damp cheesecloth.  Heat quickly,
stirring occasionally, until juice begins to boil.  Fill immediately into
sterile pint or quart jars, or fill into clean half-gallon jars, leaving 1/4
inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.

TO STERILIZE JARS:  Put empty jars, right side up on the rack in a boiling-
water canner.  Fill the canner and jars with hot (not boiling) water to 1 inch
above the tops of the jars.  Boil 10 minutes at altitudes of less than 1000
feet.  At higher elevations, boil 1 additional minute for each additional 1000
feet elevation.  Remove and drain hot sterilized jars one at a time.  Save the
water for processing filled jars.  
                                            CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      APPLE JUICE                            /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size     0-1000 ft.      1001-5000 ft.     5001-8000 ft.     /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints          5 min.          10 min.           15 min.         / 
/           or Quarts                                                        /
/                                                                            /
/           Half-Gallons 10 min.           15 min.           20 min.         /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLES-SLICED                                 
-DOC-
                                 APPLES-SLICED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 19 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 12 1/4 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel weighs
48 pounds and yields 16 to 19 quarts--an average of 2-3/4 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select apples that are juicy, crispy, and preferably both sweet and
tart.

PROCEDURE:  Wash, peel, and core apples.  To prevent discoloration, slice into
water containing ascorbic acid.  See below.  Raw packs make poor quality
products.  Place drained apple slices in large saucepan and add 1 pint of water
or very light syrup per 5 pounds of sliced apples.  Boil 5 minutes, stirring
occasionally to prevent burning.  Access syrup preparation by choosing the
FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.  Fill jars with hot slices and
hot syrup or water, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.
 
TO PREVENT DISCOLORATION:  Keep peeled, sliced apples in a solution of 3 grams
(3000 milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of cold water.  You can get
ascorbic acid in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric  
         acid powder is sold in supermakets, but it is less effective in       
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,      
         follow the manufacturer's directions.









                                                CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for        APPLES, SLICED                       /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints      20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
/             or                                                             /
/           Quarts                                                           /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////









                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for        APPLES, SLICED                       #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  8 min.    6 lb.        7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        or                                                                  #
##############################################################################








                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for        APPLES, SLICED                       @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          8 min.          5 lb.               10 lb.        @
@           or                                                               @
@           Quarts                                                           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLESAUCE                                  
-DOC-
                                  APPLESAUCE
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 21 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 13-1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel weighs
48 pounds and yields 14 to 19 quarts of sauce--an average of 3 pounds per
quart.  

QUALITY:  Select apples that are sweet, juicy, and crisp.  For a tart flavor,
add 1 to 2 pounds of tart apples to each 3 pounds of sweeter fruit.

PROCEDURE:  Wash, peel, and core apples.  If desired, slice apples into water
containing ascorbic acid.  See below.  Place drained apple slices in an 8 to 10
quart pot.  Add 1/2 cup water.  Stirring occasionally to prevent burning, heat
quickly until tender (5 to 20 minutes, depending on maturity and variety). 
Press through a sieve or food mill, or skip the pressing step if you prefer
chunk-style sauce.  Sauce may be packed without sugar.  If desired, add 1/8 cup
sugar per quart of sauce.  Taste and add more if preferred.  Reheat sauce to
boiling.  Fill jars with hot sauce, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids
and process.

TO PREVENT DISCOLORATION:  Keep peeled apples in a solution of 3 grams (3000
milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of cold water.  You can get ascorbic acid
in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric  
         acid powder is sold in supermarkets, but it is less effective in      
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,      
         follow the manufacturer's directions.






                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES     
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for        APPLESAUCE                           /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints      15 min.      20 min.        20 min.        25 min.    /
/           Quarts     20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////










                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for        APPLESAUCE                           #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints   8 min.    6 lb.        7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.    #
#        Quarts 10 min.    6 lb.        7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.    #
##############################################################################








                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for        APPLESAUCE                           @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          8 min.           5 lb.                10 lb.      @
@           Quarts        10 min.           5 lb.                10 lb.      @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPICED APPLE RINGS                              
-DOC-
                              SPICED APPLE RINGS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

12 pounds firm tart apples (maximum diameter, 2-1/2 inches)
12 cups sugar
6 cups water
1-1/4 cups white vinegar (5%)
3 tablespoons whole cloves
3/4 cup red hot cinnamon candies or 8 cinnamon sticks and 1 teaspoon red
    food coloring

Yield:  About 8 to 9 pints

PROCEDURE:  Wash apples.  To prevent discoloration, peel and slice one apple at
a time.  Immediately cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices, remove core area with
a melon baller, and immerse in ascorbic acid solution.  See below.  To make
flavored syrup, combine sugar, water, vinegar, cloves, cinnamon candies, or
cinnamon sticks and food coloring in a 6-qt. saucepan.  Stir, heat to boil, and
simmer 3 minutes.  Drain apples, add to hot syrup, and cook 5 minutes.  Fill
jars (preferably wide-mouth) with apple rings and hot flavored syrup, leaving
1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.
TO PREVENT DISCOLORATION:  Keep sliced apples in a solution of 3 grams (3000
milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of cold water.  You can get ascorbic acid
in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric  
         acid powder is sold in supermarkets, but it is less effective in
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,
         follow the manufacturer's directions.






                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIME
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      SPICED APPLE RINGS                     /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size     0-1000 ft.      1001-5000 ft.     5001-8000 ft.     /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Half-Pints   10 min.           15 min.           20 min.         / 
/           or Pints                                                         /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPICED CRAB APPLES                              
-DOC-
                              SPICED CRAB APPLES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

5 pounds crab apples                   4 teaspoons whole cloves
4-1/2 cups apple vinegar (5%)          4 sticks cinnamon
3-3/4 cups water                       Six 1/2 inch cubes fresh ginger root
7-1/2 cups sugar

Yield:  About 9 pints

PROCEDURE:  Remove blossom petals and wash apples, but leave stems attached. 
Puncture the skin of each apple four times with an ice pick or toothpick.  Mix
vinegar, water, and sugar and bring to a boil.  Add spices tied in a spice bag
or cheesecloth.  Using a blancher basket or sieve, immerse 1/3 of the apples at
a time in the boiling vinegar/syrup solution for 2 minutes.  Place cooked
apples and spice bag in a clean 1- or 2-gallon crock and add hot syrup.  Cover
and let stand overnight.  Remove spice bag, drain syrup into a large saucepan,
and reheat to boiling.  Fill pint jars with apples and hot syrup, leaving 1/2-
inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.

                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIME
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for        SPICED CRAB APPLES                   /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints      20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APRICOTS--HALVED OR SLICED                          
-DOC-
                          APRICOTS--HALVED OR SLICED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 16 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 10 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel weighs 50
pounds and yields 20 to 25 quarts--an average of 2-1/4 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select firm, well-colored mature fruit of ideal quality for eating
fresh.

PROCEDURE: Dip apricots in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds until skins
loosen.  Dip quickly in cold water and slip off skins.  Cut in half, remove
pits and slice if desired.  To prevent darkening, keep peeled fruit in ascorbic
acid solution.  See below.  Prepare and boil a very light, light, or medium
syrup or pack apricots in water, apple juice, or white grape juice.  Access
syrup preparations by choosing the FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING
FRUIT.  Raw packs make poor quality apricots.
       HOT PACK--In a large saucepan place drained fruit in syrup, water or    
       juice and bring to boil.  Fill jars with hot fruit and cooking liquid,  
       leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Place halves in layers, cut side down.

       RAW PACK--Fill jars with raw fruit, cut side down, and add hot water,
       juice, or syrup, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  
Adjust lids and process.
 
TO PREVENT DISCOLORATION:  Keep peeled, halved or sliced nectarines in a
solution of 3 grams (3000 milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of cold water. 
You can get ascorbic acid in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric  
         acid powder is sold in supermarkets, but it is less effective in      
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,      
         follow the manufacturer's directions.


                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      APRICOTS                               /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ___________________________________________________    /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints      20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
/           Quarts     25 min.      30 min.        35 min.        40 min.    /
/                                                                            /
/  Raw      Pints      25 min.      30 min.        35 min.        40 min.    /
/           Quarts     30 min.      35 min.        40 min.        45 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////






                                         CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION  
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      APRICOTS                               #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  10 min.    6 lb.       7 lb.         8 lb.          9 lb.    #
#  and    or                                                                 #
#  Raw   Quarts                                                              #
##############################################################################








                                         CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      APRICOTS                               @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          10 min.          5 lb.               10 lb.       @
@  and       or                                                              @
@  Raw      Quarts                                                           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHOLE BLACKBERRIES                              
-DOC-
                              WHOLE BLACKBERRIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 12 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 8 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A 24-quart crate
weighs 36 pounds and yields 18 to 24 quarts--an average of 1-3/4 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, sweet berries with uniform color.

PROCEDURE:  Wash 1 or 2 quarts of berries at a time.  Drain, cap, and stem if
necessary.  Prepare and boil preferred syrup, if desired.  Add 1/2 cup syrup,
juice, or water to each clean jar.  Access syrup selections by choosing the
FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with the raw berries, shaking down gently while 
    filling.  Cover with hot syrup, juice, or water, leaving 1/2-inch 
    headspace.
Adjust lids and process.


                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      BLACKBERRIES                           /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-6000 ft.       6001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Raw      Pints           15 min.           20 min.             25 min.    /
/           Quarts          20 min.           30 min.             35 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////




  





                                     CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      BLACKBERRIES                           #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Raw   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
##############################################################################









                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      BLACKBERRIES                           @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Raw      Pints            8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts          10 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHOLE BLUEBERRIES                               
-DOC-
                               WHOLE BLUEBERRIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 12 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 8 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A 24-quart crate
weighs 36 pounds and yields 18 to 24 quarts--an average of 1-3/4 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, sweet berries with uniform color.

PROCEDURE:  Wash 1 or 2 quarts of berries at a time.  Drain and stem if
necessary.  Prepare and boil preferred syrup, if desired.  Add 1/2 cup syrup,
juice, or water to each clean jar.  Access syrup selections by choosing the
FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.
    HOT PACK--Heat berries in boiling water for 30 seconds and drain.  Fill
    jars and cover with hot juice, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with the raw berries, shaking down gently while
    filling.  Cover with hot syrup, juice, or water, leaving 1/2-inch
    headspace.
Adjust lids and process.
                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      BLUEBERRIES                            /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-6000 ft.       6001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or        15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts                                                           /
/                                                                            /
/  Raw      Pints           15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts          20 min.          30 min.             35 min.     /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////







                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      BLUEBERRIES                            #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        or                                                                  #
#        Quarts                                                              #
#                                                                            #
#  Raw   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
##############################################################################





                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for       BLUEBERRIES                           @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints or         8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts                                                           @
@                                                                            @
@  Raw      Pints            8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts          10 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHOLE CURRANTS                                
-DOC-
                                WHOLE CURRANTS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 12 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 8 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A 24-quart crate
weighs 36 pounds and yields 18 to 24 quarts--an average of 1-3/4 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, sweet berries with uniform color.

PROCEDURE:  Wash 1 or 2 quarts of berries at a time.  Drain, cap, and stem if
necessary.  Prepare and boil preferred syrup, if desired.  Add 1/2 cup syrup,
juice, or water to each clean jar.  Access syrup selections by choosing the
FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.
    HOT PACK--Heat berries in boiling water for 30 seconds and drain.  Fill
    jars and cover with hot juice, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with the raw berries, shaking down gently while
    filling.  Cover with hot syrup, juice, or water, leaving 1/2-inch 
    headspace.
Adjust lids and process.
                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      CURRANTS                               /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-6000 ft.       6001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or        15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts                                                           /
/                                                                            /
/  Raw      Pints           15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts          20 min.          30 min.             35 min.     /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////







                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      CURRANTS                               #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        or                                                                  #
#        Quarts                                                              #
#                                                                            #
#  Raw   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
##############################################################################





                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      CURRANTS                               @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints or         8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts                                                           @
@                                                                            @
@  Raw      Pints            8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts          10 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHOLE DEWBERRIES                               
-DOC-
                               WHOLE DEWBERRIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 12 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 8 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A 24-quart crate
weighs 36 pounds and yields 18 to 24 quarts--an average of 1-3/4 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, sweet berries with uniform color.

PROCEDURE:  Wash 1 or 2 quarts of berries at a time.  Drain, cap, and stem if
necessary.  Prepare and boil preferred syrup, if desired.  Add 1/2 cup syrup,
juice, or water to each clean jar.  Access syrup selections by choosing the
FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with the raw berries, shaking down gently while
    filling.  Cover with hot syrup, juice, or water, leaving 1/2-inch
    headspace.
Adjust lids and process.


                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      DEWBERRIES                             /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-6000 ft.       6001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Raw      Pints           15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts          20 min.          30 min.             35 min.     /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////










                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      DEWBERRIES                             #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Raw   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
##############################################################################









                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      DEWBERRIES                             @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Raw      Pints            8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts          10 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHOLE ELDERBERRIES                              
-DOC-
                              WHOLE ELDERBERRIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 12 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 8 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A 24-quart crate
weighs 36 pounds and yields 18 to 24 quarts--an average of 1-3/4 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, sweet berries with uniform color.

PROCEDURE:  Wash 1 or 2 quarts of berries at a time.  Drain, cap, and stem if
necessary.  Prepare and boil preferred syrup, if desired.  Add 1/2 cup syrup,
juice, or water to each clean jar.  Access syrup selections by choosing the
FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.
    HOT PACK--Heat berries in boiling water for 30 seconds and drain.  Fill
    jars and cover with hot juice, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with the raw berries, shaking down gently while
    filling.  Cover with hot syrup, juice, or water, leaving 1/2-inch
    headspace.
Adjust lids and process.
                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      ELDERBERRIES                           /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-6000 ft.       6001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or        15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts                                                           /
/                                                                            /
/  Raw      Pints           15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts          20 min.          30 min.             35 min.     /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////







                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      ELDERBERRIES                           #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        or                                                                  #
#        Quarts                                                              #
#                                                                            #
#  Raw   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
##############################################################################





                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      ELDERBERRIES                           @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints or         8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts                                                           @
@                                                                            @
@  Raw      Pints            8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts          10 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHOLE GOOSEBERRIES                              
-DOC-
                              WHOLE GOOSEBERRIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 12 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 8 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A 24-quart crate
weighs 36 pounds and yields 18 to 24 quarts--an average of 1-3/4 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, sweet berries with uniform color.

PROCEDURE:  Wash 1 or 2 quarts of berries at a time.  Drain, cap, and stem if
necessary.  For gooseberries, snip off heads and tails with scissors.  Prepare
and boil preferred syrup, if desired.  Add 1/2 cup syrup, juice, or water to
each clean jar.  Access syrup selections by choosing the FRUIT menu and then
SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.
    HOT PACK--Heat berries in boiling water for 30 seconds and drain.  Fill
    jars and cover with hot juice, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with the raw berries, shaking down gently while
    filling.  Cover with hot syrup, juice, or water, leaving 1/2-inch
    headspace.
Adjust lids and process.                     CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      GOOSEBERRIES                           /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-6000 ft.       6001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or        15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts                                                           /
/                                                                            /
/  Raw      Pints           15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts          20 min.          30 min.             35 min.     /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////







                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      GOOSEBERRIES                           #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        or                                                                  #
#        Quarts                                                              #
#                                                                            #
#  Raw   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
##############################################################################





                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      GOOSEBERRIES                           @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints or         8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts                                                           @
@                                                                            @
@  Raw      Pints            8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts          10 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHOLE HACKLEBERRIES                              
-DOC-
                              WHOLE HACKLEBERRIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 12 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 8 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A 24-quart crate
weighs 36 pounds and yields 18 to 24 quarts--an average of 1-3/4 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, sweet berries with uniform color.

PROCEDURE:  Wash 1 or 2 quarts of berries at a time.  Drain, cap, and stem if
necessary.  Prepare and boil preferred syrup, if desired.  Add 1/2 cup syrup,
juice, or water to each clean jar.  Access syrup selections by choosing the
FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.
    HOT PACK--Heat berries in boiling water for 30 seconds and drain.  Fill
    jars and cover with hot juice, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with the raw berries, shaking down gently while
    filling.  Cover with hot syrup, juice, or water, leaving 1/2-inch
    headspace.
Adjust lids and process.
                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      HACKLEBERRIES                          /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-6000 ft.       6001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or        15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts                                                           /
/                                                                            /
/  Raw      Pints           15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts          20 min.          30 min.             35 min.     /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////







                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      HACKLEBERRIES                          #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        or                                                                  #
#        Quarts                                                              #
#                                                                            #
#  Raw   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
##############################################################################





                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for       HACKLEBERRIES                         @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints or         8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts                                                           @
@                                                                            @
@  Raw      Pints            8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts          10 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHOLE LOGANBERRIES                              
-DOC-
                              WHOLE LOGANBERRIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 12 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 8 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A 24-quart crate
weighs 36 pounds and yields 18 to 24 quarts--an average of 1-3/4 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, sweet berries with uniform color.

PROCEDURE:  Wash 1 or 2 quarts of berries at a time.  Drain, cap, and stem if
necessary.  Prepare and boil preferred syrup, if desired.  Add 1/2 cup syrup,
juice, or water to each clean jar.  Access syrup selections by choosing the
FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with the raw berries, shaking down gently while
    filling.  Cover with hot syrup, juice, or water, leaving 1/2-inch
    headspace.
Adjust lids and process.


                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      LOGANBERRIES                           /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-6000 ft.       6001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Raw      Pints           15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts          20 min.          30 min.             35 min.     /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////










                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      LOGANBERRIES                           #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Raw   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
##############################################################################









                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      LOGANBERRIES                           @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Raw      Pints            8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts          10 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHOLE MULBERRIES                               
-DOC-
                               WHOLE MULBERRIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 12 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 8 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A 24-quart crate
weighs 36 pounds and yields 18 to 24 quarts--an average of 1-3/4 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, sweet berries with uniform color.

PROCEDURE:  Wash 1 or 2 quarts of berries at a time.  Drain, cap, and stem if
necessary.  Prepare and boil preferred syrup, if desired.  Add 1/2 cup syrup,
juice, or water to each clean jar.  Access syrup selections by choosing the
FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with the raw berries, shaking down gently while
    filling.  Cover with hot syrup, juice, or water, leaving 1/2-inch
    headspace.
Adjust lids and process.


                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      MULBERRIES                             /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-6000 ft.       6001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Raw      Pints           15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts          20 min.          30 min.             35 min.     /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////










                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      MULBERRIES                             #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Raw   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
##############################################################################









                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      MULBERRIES                             @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Raw      Pints            8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts          10 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHOLE RASPBERRIES                               
-DOC-
                               WHOLE RASPBERRIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 12 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 8 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A 24-quart crate
weighs 36 pounds and yields 18 to 24 quarts--an average of 1-3/4 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, sweet berries with uniform color.

PROCEDURE:  Wash 1 or 2 quarts of berries at a time.  Drain, cap, and stem if
necessary.  Prepare and boil preferred syrup, if desired.  Add 1/2 cup syrup,
juice, or water to each clean jar.  Access syrup selections by choosing the
FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with the raw berries, shaking down gently while
    filling.  Cover with hot syrup, juice, or water, leaving 1/2-inch
    headspace.
Adjust lids and process.


                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      RASPBERRIES                            /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-6000 ft.       6001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Raw      Pints           15 min.          20 min.             25 min.     /
/           Quarts          20 min.          30 min.             35 min.     /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////










                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      RASPBERRIES                            #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Raw   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
##############################################################################









                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      RASPBERRIES                            @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Raw      Pints            8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@           Quarts          10 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.     @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BLUEBERRY SYRUP                                
-DOC-
                                BLUEBERRY SYRUP
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Juice from fresh or frozen blueberries is easily made into topping for use on
ice cream and pastries.

Yield:  About 9 half-pints

PROCEDURE:  Select 6-1/2 cups of fresh or frozen blueberries.  Wash and stem
fresh fruit and crush in a saucepan.  Heat to boiling and simmer until soft (5
to 10 minutes).  Strain hot through a colander and drain until cool enough to
handle.  Strain the collected juice through a double layer of cheesecloth or
jelly bag.  Discard the dry pulp.  The yield of the pressed juice should be
about 4-1/2 to 5 cups.  Combine the juice with 6-3/4 cups of sugar in a large
saucepan, bring to boil, and simmer 1 minute.  To make a syrup with whole fruit
pieces, save 1 or 2 cups of the fresh or frozen fruit, combine these with the
sugar, and simmer as in making regular syrup.  Remove from heat, skim off foam,
and fill into clean half-pint or pint jars, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust
lids and process.

                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      BLUEBERRY SYRUP                        /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-5000 ft.       5001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Half-pints      10 min.          15 min.             20 min.     /
/           or pints                                                         /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHERRY SYRUP                                 
-DOC-
                                 CHERRY SYRUP
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Juice from fresh or frozen cherries is easily made into topping for use on ice
cream and pastries.

Yield:  About 9 half-pints

PROCEDURE:  Select 6-1/2 cups of fresh or frozen cherries.  Wash and stem fresh
fruit and crush in a saucepan.  Heat to boiling and simmer until soft (5 to 10
minutes).  Strain hot through a colander and drain until cool enough to handle. 
Strain the collected juice through a double layer of cheesecloth or jelly bag. 
Discard the dry pulp.  The yield of the pressed juice should be about 4-1/2 to
5 cups.  Combine the juice with 6-3/4 cups of sugar in a large saucepan, bring
to boil, and simmer 1 minute.  To make a syrup with whole fruit pieces, save 1
or 2 cups of the fresh or frozen fruit, combine these with the sugar, and
simmer as in making regular syrup.  Remove from heat, skim off foam, and fill
into clean half-pint or pint jars, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and
process.

                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      CHERRY SYRUP                           /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-5000 ft.       5001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Half-pints      10 min.          15 min.             20 min.     /
/           or pints                                                         /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GRAPE SYRUP                                  
-DOC-
                                  GRAPE SYRUP
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Juice from fresh or frozen grapes is easily made into topping for use on ice
cream and pastries.

Yield:  About 9 half-pints

PROCEDURE:  Select 6-1/2 cups of fresh or frozen grapes.  Wash and stem fresh
fruit and crush in a saucepan.  Heat to boiling and simmer until soft (5 to 10
minutes).  Strain hot through a colander and drain until cool enough to handle. 
Strain the collected juice through a double layer of cheesecloth or jelly bag. 
Discard the dry pulp.  The yield of the pressed juice should be about 4-1/2 to
5 cups.  Combine the juice with 6-3/4 cups of sugar in a large saucepan, bring
to boil, and simmer 1 minute.  To make a syrup with whole fruit pieces, save 1
or 2 cups of the fresh or frozen fruit, combine these with the sugar, and
simmer as in making regular syrup.  Remove from heat, skim off foam, and fill
into clean half-pint or pint jars, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and
process.

                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      GRAPE SYRUP                            /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-5000 ft.       5001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Half-pints      10 min.          15 min.             20 min.     /
/           or pints                                                         /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RASPBERRY SYRUP                                
-DOC-
                                RASPBERRY SYRUP
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Juice from fresh or frozen raspberries (red or black) is easily made into
topping for use on ice cream and pastries.

Yield:  About 9 half-pints

PROCEDURE:  Select 6-1/2 cups of fresh or frozen raspberries.  Wash, cap, and
stem fresh fruit and crush in a saucepan.  Heat to boiling and simmer until
soft (5 to 10 minutes).  Strain hot through a colander and drain until cool
enough to handle.  Strain the collected juice through a double layer of
cheesecloth or jelly bag.  Discard the dry pulp.  The yield of the pressed
juice should be about 4-1/2 to 5 cups.  Combine the juice with 6-3/4 cups of
sugar in a large saucepan, bring to boil, and simmer 1 minute.  To make a syrup
with whole fruit pieces, save 1 or 2 cups of the fresh or frozen fruit, combine
these with the sugar, and simmer as in making regular syrup.  Remove from heat,
skim off foam, and fill into clean half-pint or pint jars, leaving 1/2-inch
headspace.  Adjust lids and process.

                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      RASPBERRY SYRUP                        /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-5000 ft.       5001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Half-pints      10 min.          15 min.             20 min.     /
/           or pints                                                         /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STRAWBERRY SYRUP                                
-DOC-
                                STRAWBERRY SYRUP
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Juice from fresh or frozen strawberries is easily made into topping for use on
ice cream and pastries.

Yield:  About 9 half-pints

PROCEDURE:  Select 6-1/2 cups of fresh or frozen strawberries.  Wash, cap, and
stem fresh fruit and crush in a saucepan.  Heat to boiling and simmer until
soft (5 to 10 minutes).  Strain hot through a colander and drain until cool
enough to handle.  Strain the collected juice through a double layer of
cheesecloth or jelly bag.  Discard the dry pulp.  The yield of the pressed
juice should be about 4-1/2 to 5 cups.  Combine the juice with 6-3/4 cups of
sugar in a large saucepan, bring to boil, and simmer 1 minute.  To make a syrup
with whole fruit pieces, save 1 or 2 cups of the fresh or frozen fruit, combine
these with the sugar, and simmer as in making regular syrup.  Remove from heat,
skim off foam, and fill into clean half-pint or pint jars, leaving 1/2-inch
headspace.  Adjust lids and process.

                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      STRAWBERRY SYRUP                       /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-5000 ft.       5001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Half-pints      10 min.          15 min.             20 min.     /
/           or pints                                                         /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SWEET OR SOUR WHOLE CHERRIES                         
-DOC-
                         SWEET OR SOUR WHOLE CHERRIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 17-1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts;
an average of 11 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A lug weighs 25
pounds and yields 8 to 12 quarts--an average of 2-1/2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select bright, uniformly colored cherries that are mature (of ideal
quality for eating fresh or cooking).

PROCEDURE:  Stem and wash cherries.  Remove pits if desired.  If pitted, place
cherries in water containing ascorbic acid to prevent stem-end discoloration.
See below.  If canned unpitted, prick skins on opposite sides with a clean
needle to prevent splitting.  Cherries may be canned in water, apple juice,
white grape juice or syrup.  Access syrup preparation by choosing the FRUIT
menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.
    HOT PACK--In a large saucepan add 1/2 cup water, juice, or syrup for each
    quart of drained fruit and bring to boil.  Fill jars with cherries and
    cooking liquid, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Add 1/2 cup hot water, juice, or syrup to each jar.  Fill jars
    with drained cherries, shaking down gently as you fill.  Add more hot    
    liquid, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.

Adjust lids and process.
 
TO PREVENT DISCOLORATION:  Keep peeled, halved, quartered, sliced, or diced
fruit in a solution of 3 grams (3000 milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of
cold water.  You can get ascorbic acid in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric  
         acid powder is sold in supermarkets, but it is less effective in      
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,      
         follow the manufacturer's directions.


                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES     
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      WHOLE CHERRIES                         /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints      15 min.      20 min.        20 min.        25 min.    /
/           Quarts     20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
/                                                                            /
/  Raw      Pints or   25 min.      30 min.        35 min.        40 min.    /
/           Quarts                                                           /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////







                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      WHOLE CHERRIES                         #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints   8 min.    6 lb.       7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.    6 lb.       7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#                                                                            #
#  Raw   Pints  10 min.    6 lb.       7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        or                                                                  #
#        Quarts                                                              #
##############################################################################





                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      WHOLE CHERRIES                         @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints           8 min.          5 lb.              10 lb.        @
@           Quarts         10 min.          5 lb.              10 lb.        @
@                                                                            @
@  Raw      Pints or       10 min.          5 lb.              10 lb.        @
@           Quarts                                                           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FIGS                                     
-DOC-
                                     FIGS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 16 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 11 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints--an average of 2-1/2
pounds yields 1 quart.

QUALITY:  Select firm, ripe, uncracked figs.  The mature color depends on the
variety.  Avoid overripe figs with very soft flesh.

PROCEDURE:  Wash figs thoroughly in clean water.  Drain.  Do not peel or remove
stems.  Cover figs with water and boil 2 minutes.  Drain.  Gently boil figs in
light syrup for 5 minutes.  Access syrup preparation by choosing the FRUIT menu
and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.  ADD 2 TABLESPOONS BOTTLED LEMON JUICE PER
QUART OR 1 TABLESPOON PER PINT; OR ADD 1/2 TEASPOON CITRIC ACID PER QUART OR
1/4 TEASPOON PER PINT.  Fill jars with hot figs and cooking syrup, leaving 1/2-
inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.



                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES     
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      FIGS                                   /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints      45 min.      50 min.        55 min.        60 min.    /
/           Quarts     50 min.      55 min.        60 min.        65 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FRUIT PUREES                                 
-DOC-
                                 FRUIT PUREES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

PROCEDURE:  Stem, wash, drain, peel, and remove pits if necessary.  Measure
fruit into large saucepan, crushing slightly if desired.  Add 1 cup hot water
for each quart of fruit.  Cook slowly until fruit is soft, stirring frequently. 
Press through sieve or food mill.  If desired for flavor, add sugar to taste. 
Reheat pulp to boil, or until sugar dissolves if added.  Fill hot into clean
jars, leaving 1/4-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      FRUIT PUREES                           /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size    0-1000 ft.      1001-5000 ft.        5001-8000 ft.   /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or     15 min.           20 min.              25 min.      /
/           Quarts                                                           / 
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
                                         CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      FRUIT PUREES                           #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints   8 min.    6 lb.       7 lb.         8 lb.          9 lb.    #
#        or                                                                  #
#        Quarts                                                              # 
##############################################################################








                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      FRUIT PUREES                           @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints or       8 min.           5 lb.               10 lb.       @
@           Quarts                                                           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GRAPEFRUIT SECTIONS                              
-DOC-
                              GRAPEFRUIT SECTIONS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 15 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 13 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints--an average of about
2 pounds yields 1 quart.

QUALITY:  Select firm, mature, sweet fruit of ideal quality for eating fresh.

PROCEDURE:  Wash and peel fruit and remove white tissue to prevent a bitter
taste.  Prepare a very light, light, or medium syrup and bring to boil.  Access
syrup preparation by choosing the FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT. 
Fill jars with sections and hot syrup, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids
and process.






                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      GRAPEFRUIT SECTIONS                    /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.       1001-5000 ft.      5001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Raw      Pints or       10 min.            15 min.            20 min.     /
/           Quarts                                                           /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////










                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      GRAPEFRUIT SECTIONS                    #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        or                                                                  #
#        Quarts                                                              #
#                                                                            #
#  Raw   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
##############################################################################





                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      GRAPEFRUIT                             @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints or         8 min.          5 lb.              10 lb.       @ 
@           Quarts                                                           @
@                                                                            @
@  Raw      Pints            8 min.          5 lb.              10 lb.       @
@           Quarts          10 min.          5 lb.              10 lb.       @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ORANGE SECTIONS                                
-DOC-
                                ORANGE SECTIONS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 15 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 13 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints--an average of about
2 pounds yields 1 quart.

QUALITY:  Select firm, mature, sweet fruit of ideal quality for eating fresh.

PROCEDURE:  Wash and peel fruit and remove white tissue to prevent a bitter
taste.  Prepare a very light, light, or medium syrup and bring to boil.  Access
syrup preparation by choosing the FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT. 
Fill jars with sections and hot syrup, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids
and process.






                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      ORANGE SECTIONS                        /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.       1001-5000 ft.      5001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Raw      Pints or       10 min.            15 min.            20 min.     /
/           Quarts                                                           /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////









                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      ORANGE SECTIONS                        #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        or                                                                  #
#        Quarts                                                              #
#                                                                            #
#  Raw   Pints   8 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        Quarts 10 min.     6 lb.      7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
##############################################################################





                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      ORANGE SECTIONS                        @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints or         8 min.          5 lb.              10 lb.       @ 
@           Quarts                                                           @
@                                                                            @
@  Raw      Pints            8 min.          5 lb.              10 lb.       @
@           Quarts          10 min.          5 lb.              10 lb.       @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GRAPE JUICE                                  
-DOC-
                                  GRAPE JUICE
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 24-1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; 
an average of 16 pounds per canner load of 9 pints.  A lug weighs 26 pounds and
yields 7 to 9 quarts of juice--an average of 3-1/2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select sweet, well-colored, firm, mature fruit of ideal quality for
eating fresh or cooking.

PROCEDURE:  Wash and stem grapes.  Place grapes in a saucepan and add boiling
water to cover grapes.  Heat and simmer slowly until skin is soft.  Strain
through a damp jelly bag or double layers of cheesecloth.  Refrigerate juice
for 24 to 48 hours.  Without mixing, carefully pour off clear liquid and save;
discard sediment.  If desired, strain through a paper coffee filter for a
clearer juice.  Add juice to a saucepan and sweeten to taste.  Heat and stir
until sugar is dissolved.  Continue heating with occasional stirring until
juice begins to boil.  Fill into sterile jars immediately, leaving 1/4-inch
headspace.  Adjust lids and process.

TO STERILIZE JARS:  Put empty jars, right side up on the rack in a boiling-
water canner.  Fill the canner and jars with hot (not boiling) water to 1 inch
above the tops of the jars.  Boil 10 minutes at altitudes of less than 1000
feet.  At higher elevations, boil 1 additional minute for each additional 1000
feet elevation.  Remove and drain hot sterilized jars one at a time.  Save the
water for processing filled jars.  

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      GRAPE JUICE                            /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.      1001-5000 ft.      5001-8000 ft.   /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or        5 min.           10 min.            15 min.      /
/           Quarts                                                           /
/                                                                            /
/           Half-gallons   10 min.           15 min.            20 min.      /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHOLE GRAPES                                 
-DOC-
                                 WHOLE GRAPES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 14 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 9 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A lug weighs 26
pounds and yields 12 to 14 quarts of whole grapes--an average of 2 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Choose unripe, tight-skinned, preferably green seedless grapes
harvested two weeks before they reach optimum eating quality.

PROCEDURE:  Stem, wash and drain grapes.  Prepare very light or light syrup. 
Access syrup preparation by choosing the FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING
FRUIT.  
    HOT PACK--Blanch grapes in boiling water for 30 seconds.  Drain, and
    proceed as for raw pack.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with grapes and hot syrup, leaving 1-inch headspace.

Adjust lids and process.

                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      WHOLE GRAPES                           /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or   10 min.      15 min.        15 min.        20 min.    /
/           Quarts                                                           /
/                                                                            /
/  Raw      Pints      15 min.      20 min.        20 min.        25 min.    /
/           Quarts     20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MIXED FRUIT COCKTAIL                             
-DOC-
                             MIXED FRUIT COCKTAIL
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

3 pounds peaches                     
3 pounds pears                       
1-1/2 pounds underripe, seedless green grapes
10-oz. jar maraschino cherries
3 cups sugar
4 cups water

Yield:  About 6 pints

PROCEDURE:  Stem and wash grapes, and keep in ascorbic acid solution.  See
below.  Dip ripe but firm peaches, a few at a time, in boiling water for 1 to
1-1/2 minutes to loosen skins.  Dip in cold water and slip off skins.  Cut in
half, remove pits, cut into 1/2-inch cubes and keep in solution with grapes. 
Peel, halve, and core pears.  Cut into 1/2-inch cubes and keep in solution with
grapes and peaches.  Combine sugar and water in a saucepan and bring to boil. 
Drain mixed fruit.  Add 1/2 cup of hot syrup to each jar.  Then add a few
cherries and gently fill the jar with mixed fruit and more hot syrup, leaving
1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.
TO PREVENT DISCOLORATION:  Keep peeled, halved, quartered, sliced, or diced
fruit in a solution of 3 grams (3000 milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of
cold water.  You can get ascorbic acid in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric  
         acid powder is sold in supermarkets, but it is less effective in
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,
         follow the manufacturer's directions.






                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      MIXED FRUIT COCKTAIL                   /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Raw     Half-pints  20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
/          or pints                                                          /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NECTARINES--HALVED OR SLICED                         
-DOC-
                         NECTARINES--HALVED OR SLICED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 17-1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts;
an average of 11 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel weighs
48 pounds and yields 16 to 24 quarts--an average of 2-1/2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, mature fruit of ideal quality for eating fresh or
cooking.

PROCEDURE: Dip nectarines in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds until skins
loosen.  Dip quickly in cold water and slip off skins.  Cut in half, remove
pits and slice if desired.  To prevent darkening, keep peeled fruit in ascorbic
acid solution.  See below.  Prepare and boil a very light, light, or medium
syrup or pack nectarines in water, apple juice, or white grape juice.  Access
syrup preparation by choosing the FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT. 
Raw packs make poor quality nectarines.
       HOT PACK--In a large saucepan place drained fruit in syrup, water or    
       juice and bring to boil.  Fill jars with hot fruit and cooking liquid,  
       leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Place halves in layers, cut side down.

       RAW PACK--Fill jars with raw fruit, cut side down, and add hot water    
       juice, or syrup, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  
Adjust lids and process.
 
TO PREVENT DISCOLORATION:  Keep peeled or sliced nectarines in a solution of 3
grams (3000 milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of cold water.  You can get
ascorbic acid in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric  
         acid powder is sold in supermarkets, but it is less effective in      
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,      
         follow the manufacturer's directions.


                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES     
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      NECTARINES                             /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ___________________________________________________    /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints      20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
/           Quarts     25 min.      30 min.        35 min.        40 min.    /
/                                                                            /
/  Raw      Pints      25 min.      30 min.        35 min.        40 min.    /
/           Quarts     30 min.      35 min.        40 min.        45 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////







                                         CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION  
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      NECTARINES                             #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  10 min.    6 lb.       7 lb.         8 lb.          9 lb.    #
#  and    or                                                                 #
#  Raw   Quarts                                                              #
##############################################################################








                                         CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      NECTARINES                             @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          10 min.          5 lb.               10 lb.       @
@  and       or                                                              @
@  Raw      Quarts                                                           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEACHES--HALVED OR SLICED                          
-DOC-
                          PEACHES--HALVED OR SLICED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 17-1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts;
an average of 11 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel weighs
48 pounds and yields 16 to 24 quarts--an average of 2-1/2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, mature fruit of ideal quality for eating fresh or
cooking.

PROCEDURE: Dip peaches in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds until skins
loosen.  Dip quickly in cold water and slip off skins.  Cut in half, remove
pits and slice if desired.  To prevent darkening, keep peeled fruit in ascorbic
acid solution.  See below.  Prepare and boil a very light, light, or medium
syrup or pack apricots in water, apple juice, or white grape juice.  Access
syrup preparation by choosing the FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT. 
Raw packs make poor quality peaches.
       HOT PACK--In a large saucepan place drained fruit in syrup, water or    
       juice and bring to boil.  Fill jars with hot fruit and cooking liquid,  
       leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Place halves in layers, cut side down.

       RAW PACK--Fill jars with raw fruit, cut side down, and add hot water    
       juice, or syrup, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  
Adjust lids and process.
 
TO PREVENT DISCOLORATION:  Keep peeled, halved or sliced peaches in a solution
of 3 grams (3000 milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of cold water.  You can
get ascorbic acid in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric  
         acid powder is sold in supermarkets, but it is less effective in      
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,      
         follow the manufacturer's directions.


                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      PEACHES                                /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ___________________________________________________    /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints      20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
/           Quarts     25 min.      30 min.        35 min.        40 min.    /
/                                                                            /
/  Raw      Pints      25 min.      30 min.        35 min.        40 min.    /
/           Quarts     30 min.      35 min.        40 min.        45 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////







                                         CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION  
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      PEACHES                                #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  10 min.    6 lb.       7 lb.         8 lb.          9 lb.    #
#  and    or                                                                 #
#  Raw   Quarts                                                              #
##############################################################################








                                         CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      PEACHES                                @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          10 min.          5 lb.               10 lb.       @
@  and       or                                                              @
@  Raw      Quarts                                                           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEARS--HALVED                                 
-DOC-
                                 PEARS--HALVED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 17-1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts;
an average of 11 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel weighs
50 pounds and yields 16 to 25 quarts--an average of 2-1/2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Choose ripe, mature fruit of ideal quality for eating fresh or
cooking. 

PROCEDURE:  Wash and peel pears.  Cut lengthwise in halves and remove core.  A
melon baller or metal measuring spoon is suitable for coring pears.  To prevent
discoloration, keep pears in an ascorbic acid solution.  See below.  Pack pears
in apple juice, white grape juice, water or prepare a very light, light, or
medium syrup.  Access syrup preparation by choosing the FRUIT menu and then
SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.  Raw packs make poor quality pears.  Boil drained
pears 5 minutes in syrup, juice, or water.  Fill jars with hot fruit and
cooking liquid, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.



TO PREVENT DISCOLORATION:  Keep peeled, halved, quartered, sliced, or diced
fruit in a solution of 3 grams (3000 milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of
cold water.  You can get ascorbic acid in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric
         acid powder is sold in supermarkets, but it is less effective in
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,
         follow the manufacturer's directions.






                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      PEARS-HALVED                           /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints      20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
/           Quarts     25 min.      30 min.        35 min.        40 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////










                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      PEARS-HALVED                           #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  10 min.    6 lb.       7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        or                                                                  #
#        Quarts                                                              # 
##############################################################################








                                        CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      PEARS-HALVED                           @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints or         10 min.          5 lb.               10 lb.     @
@           Quarts                                                           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE PIE FILLING                               
-DOC-
                               APPLE PIE FILLING
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

SPECIAL NOTE:  Fruit pie fillings are excellent and safe products.  Each canned
quart makes one 8-inch to 9-inch pie.  The filling may be used as toppings on
dessert or pastries.  Clear Jel A is a starch modified to produce excellent
sauce consistency even after fillings are canned and baked.  Other available
starches break down when used in these pie fillings, causing a runny sauce
consistency.  Clear Jel A is increasingly available among canning and freezing
supplies in some stores.  If you cannot find it, ask your county Extension home
economist about its availability in your region.

Because the variety of fruit may alter the flavor of the fruit pie, it is
suggested that you first make a single quart, make a pie with it, and serve. 
Then adjust the sugar and spices in the recipe to suit your personal
preferences.  The amount of lemon juice should not be altered, as it aids in
controlling the safety and storage stability of the fillings.  

QUALITY:  Use firm, crisp apples.  Stayman, Golden Delicious, Rome, and other
varieties of similar quality are suitable.  If apples lack tartness, use an
additional 1/4 cup of lemon juice for each 6 quarts of slices.
                                        Quantities of Ingredients Needed 
                                      1 Quart                      7 Quarts
                                    __________________________________________

Blanched sliced apples              3-1/2 cups                   6 quarts
Granulated sugar                    3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons      6 cups
Clear Jel A                         1/4                          1-3/4 cups
Cinnamon                            1/2 teaspoon                 1 tablespoon
Cold Water                          1/2 cup                      4 cups
Apple juice                         3/4 cup                      5 cups
Bottled lemon juice                 2 tablespoons                3/4 cup
Nutmeg (optional)                   1/8 teaspoon                 1 teaspoon
Yellow food coloring (optional)     1 drop                       7 drops

Yield: 1 quart or 7 quarts

PROCEDURE:  Wash, peel, and core apples.  Prepare slices 1/2-inch wide and
place in water containing ascorbic acid to prevent browning.  See below. 
Blanch 2 quarts of sliced apples at a time for 1 minute in boiling water. 
While blanching other batches of apples, keep blanched apples in a covered pot
so they will stay warm.  Combine sugar, Clear Jel A, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a
large kettle with water, apple juice, and food color.  Stir and cook on medium
high heat until mixture thickens and begins to bubble.  Drain apple slices. 
Add lemon juice and boil 1 minute stirring constantly.  Fold in apple slices
immediately and fill jars with mixture without delay, leaving 1/2-inch
headspace.  Adjust lids and process immediately.
 
TO PREVENT DISCOLORATION:  Keep peeled, halved, quartered, sliced, or diced
fruit in a solution of 3 grams (3000 milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of
cold water.  You can get ascorbic acid in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric  
         acid powder is sold in supermarkets, but it is less effective in
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,
         follow the manufacturer's directions.
                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      APPLE PIE FILLING                      /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or   25 min.      30 min.        35 min.        40 min.    /
/           Quarts                                                           /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BLUEBERRY PIE FILLING                             
-DOC-
                             BLUEBERRY PIE FILLING
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

SPECIAL NOTE:  Fruit pie fillings are excellent and safe products.  Each canned
quart makes one 8-inch to 9-inch pie.  The filling may be used as toppings on
dessert or pastries.  Clear Jel A is a starch modified to produce excellent
sauce consistency even after fillings are canned and baked.  Other available
starches break down when used in these pie fillings, causing a runny sauce
consistency.  Clear Jel A is increasingly available among canning and freezing
supplies in some stores.  If you cannot find it, ask your county Extension home
economist about its availability in your region.

Because the variety of fruit may alter the flavor of the fruit pie, it is
suggested that you first make a single quart, make a pie with it, and serve. 
Then adjust the sugar and spices in the recipe to suit your personal
preferences.  The amount of lemon juice should not be altered, as it aids in
controlling the safety and storage stability of the fillings.  

When using frozen blueberries, select unsweetened fruit.  If sugar has been
added, rinse it off while fruit is frozen.  Collect, measure, and use juice
from thawing fruit to partially replace the water specified in the recipe.  Use
only 1/4 cup Clear Jel per quart, or 1-3/4 cups for 7 quarts.  Use fresh fruit
in the following recipe.

                                        Quantities of Ingredients Needed 
                                      1 Quart                      7 Quarts
                                    __________________________________________

Fresh Blueberries                   3-1/2 cups                   6 quarts
Granulated sugar                    3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons      6 cups
Clear Jel A                         1/4 + 1 tablespoon           2 cups
Cold Water                          1 cup                        7 cups
Bottled lemon juice                 3-1/2 teaspoons              1/2 cup
Blue food coloring (optional)       3 drops                      20 drops
Red food coloring (optional)        1 drop                       7 drops

Yield: 1 quart or 7 quarts

PROCEDURE:  Wash and drain blueberries.  Combine sugar and Clear Jel A in a
large kettle.  Stir.  Add water, and if desired, food coloring.  Cook on medium
high heat until mixture thickens and begins to bubble.  Add lemon juice and
boil 1 minute, stirring constantly.  Fold in berries immediately and fill jars
with mixture without delay, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and
process immediately.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      BLUEBERRY PIE FILLING                  /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or    30 min.      35 min.        40 min.        45 min.   /
/           Quarts                                                           /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHERRY PIE FILLING                              
-DOC-
                              CHERRY PIE FILLING
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

SPECIAL NOTE:  Fruit pie fillings are excellent and safe products.  Each canned
quart makes one 8-inch to 9-inch pie.  The filling may be used as toppings on
dessert or pastries.  Clear Jel A is a starch modified to produce excellent
sauce consistency even after fillings are canned and baked.  Other available
starches break down when used in these pie fillings, causing a runny sauce
consistency.  Clear Jel A is increasingly available among canning and freezing
supplies in some stores.  If you cannot find it, ask your county Extension home
economist about its availability in your region.

Because the variety of fruit may alter the flavor of the fruit pie, it is
suggested that you first make a single quart, make a pie with it, and serve. 
Then adjust the sugar and spices in the recipe to suit your personal
preferences.  The amount of lemon juice should not be altered, as it aids in
controlling the safety and storage stability of the fillings.  

When using frozen cherries, select unsweetened fruit.  If sugar has been added,
rinse it off while fruit is frozen.  Collect, measure, and use juice from
thawing fruit to partially replace the water specified in the recipe.  Use only
1/4 cup Clear Jel per quart, or 1-3/4 cups for 7 quarts.  In the following
recipe, use fresh fruit only.
                                        Quantities of Ingredients Needed 
                                      1 Quart                      7 Quarts
                                    __________________________________________

Fresh sour cherries                 3-1/3 cups                   6 quarts
Granulated sugar                    1 cup                        7 cups
Clear Jel A                         1/4 + 1 tablespoon           1-3/4 cups
Cold Water                          1-1/3 cups                   9-1/3 cups
Cinnamon (optional)                 1/8  teaspoon                1 teaspoon
Bottled lemon juice                 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon    1/2 cup
Almond extract (optional)           1/4 teaspoon                 2 teaspoon
Red food coloring (optional)        6 drops                      1/4 teaspoon

QUALITY:  Select very ripe, firm cherries.

YIELD:  1 quart or 7 quarts

PROCEDURE:  Rinse and pit cherries, and hold in cold water.  To prevent stem
end browning, use ascorbic acid solution.  See below.
Combine sugar, Clear Jel A, and cinnamon in a large saucepan.  Add water, food
coloring, and almond extract, if desired.  Stir mixture and cook over medium
high heat until mixture thickens and begins to bubble.  Add lemon juice and
boil 1 minute, stirring constantly.  Fold in cherries immediately and fill jars
without delay, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process
immediately.
 
TO PREVENT DISCOLORATION:  Keep peeled, halved, quartered, sliced, or diced
fruit in a solution of 3 grams (3000 milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of
cold water.  You can get ascorbic acid in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric  
         acid powder is sold in supermarkets, but it is less effective in      
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,      
         follow the manufacturer's directions.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      CHERRY PIE FILLING                     /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or   30 min.      35 min.        40 min.        45 min.    /
/           Quarts                                                           /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FESTIVE MINCEMEAT PIE FILLING                         
-DOC-
                         FESTIVE MINCEMEAT PIE FILLING
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

2 cups finely chopped suet                   2 quart apple cider
5 pounds ground beef                         2 tablespoons ground cinnamon 
   OR 4 lbs. ground venison + 1 lb. sausage  2 teaspoons ground cloves
5 quarts chopped apples                      2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
2 pounds dark seedless raisins               5 cups sugar
1 pound white raisins                        2 tablespoons

Yield:  About 7 quarts

PROCEDURE:  Cook meat and suet in water to avoid browning.  Peel, core, and
quarter apples.  Put meat, suet, and apples through food grinder using a medium
blade.  Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan, and simmer 1 hour or until
slightly thickened.  Stir often.  Fill jars with mixture without delay, leaving
1-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.



                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      FESTIVE MINCEMEAT PIE FILLING          #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Quarts 90 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      FESTIVE MINCEMEAT PIE FILLING          @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@           Quarts         90 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREEN-TOMATO PIE FILLING                           
-DOC-
                           GREEN-TOMATO PIE FILLING
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

4 quarts chopped green tomatoes         2-1/2 cups brown sugar
3 quarts peeled, chopped tart apples    2-1/2 cups white sugar
1 pound dark seedless raisins           1/2 cup vinegar (5%)
1 pound white raisins                   1 cup bottled lemon juice
1/4 cup minced citron, lemon, or        2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
    orange peel                         1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 cups water                            1 teaspoon ground cloves

Yield: About 7 quarts

PROCEDURE:  Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan.  Cook slowly, stirring
often, until tender and slightly thickened (about 35 to 40 minutes).  Fill jars
with hot mixture, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.




                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES     
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      GREEN-TOMATO PIE FILLING               /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size     0-1000 ft.       1001-5000 ft.       5001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Quarts        15 min.            20 min.             25 min.     /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PINEAPPLE                                   
-DOC-
                                   PINEAPPLE
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 21 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 13 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints; an average of 3
pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select firm, ripe pineapples.

PROCEDURE:  Wash pineapple.  Peel and remove eyes and tough fiber.  Slice or
cube.  Pineapple may be packed in water, apple juice, white grape juice, or in
very light, light, or medium syrup.  Access syrup preparation by choosing the
FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.  In a large saucepan, add
pineapple to syrup, water, or juice, and simmer 10 minutes.  Fill jars with hot
pieces and cooking liquid, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and
process.




                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for       PINEAPPLE                             /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints      15 min.      20 min.        20 min.        25 min.    /
/           Quarts     20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PLUMS--HALVED OR WHOLE                            
-DOC-
                            PLUMS--HALVED OR WHOLE
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 14 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 9 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel weighs 56
pounds and yields 22 to 36 quarts--an average of 2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select deep-colored, mature fruit of ideal quality for eating fresh
or cooking.

PROCEDURE:  Stem and wash plums.  To can whole, prick skins on two sides of
plums with fork to prevent splitting.  Freestone varieties may be halved and
pitted.  Prepare very light, light, or medium syrup.  Access syrup preparation
by choosing the FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.  
    HOT PACK--Add plums to hot syrup and boil 2 minutes.  Cover saucepan and
    let stand 20 to 30 minutes.  Fill jars with hot plums and cooking syrup,
    leaving 1/2-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with raw plums, packing firmly.  Add hot syrup,
    leaving 1/2-inch headspace.
Adjust lids and process.
                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      PLUMS--HALVED OR WHOLE                /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ___________________________________________________    /
/  of Pack  Jar size  0-1000 ft.  1001-3000 ft.  3001-5000 ft.  5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints      20 min.      25 min.        30 min.        35 min.    /
/  and                                                                       /
/  Raw      Quarts     25 min.      30 min.        35 min.        40 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////









                                         CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION  
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      PLUMS--HALVED OR WHOLE                 #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  10 min.    6 lb.       7 lb.         8 lb.          9 lb.    #
#  and    or                                                                 #
#  Raw   Quarts                                                              #
##############################################################################








                                         CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      PLUMS--HALVED OR WHOLE                 @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          10 min.          5 lb.               10 lb.       @
@  and       or                                                              @
@  Raw      Quarts                                                           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RHUBARB--STEWED                                
-DOC-
                                RHUBARB--STEWED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 10-1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts;
an average of 7 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A lug weighs 28
pounds and yields 14 to 28 quarts--an average of 1-1/2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select young, tender, well-colored stalks from the spring or late
fall crop.

PROCEDURE:  Trim off leaves.  Wash stalks and cut into 1/2-inch to 1-inch
pieces.  In a large saucepan add 1/2 cup sugar for each quart of fruit.  Let
stand until juice appears.  Heat gently to boiling.  Fill jars without delay,
leaving 1/2-inch headspace.  Adjust and process.






                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      RHUBARB--STEWED                        /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size      0-1000 ft.       1001-5000 ft.      5001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or        15 min.           20 min.            25 min.     /
/           Quarts                                                           /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////










                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      RHUBARB                                #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  8 min.     6 lb.       7 lb.         8 lb.         9 lb.     #
#        or                                                                  #
#        Quarts                                                              #
##############################################################################








                                       CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      RHUBARB--STEWED                        @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints or        8 min.          5 lb.                10 lb.      @
@           Quarts                                                           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ZUCCHINI-PINEAPPLE                              
-DOC-
                              ZUCCHINI-PINEAPPLE
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

4 qt. cubed or shredded zucchini             1-1/2 cups bottled lemon juice
46 oz. canned unsweetened pineapple juice    3 cups sugar

Yield:  About 8 to 9 pints

PROCEDURE:  Peel zucchini and either cut into 1/2-inch cubes or shred.  Mix
zucchini with other ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. 
Simmer 20 minutes.  Fill jars with hot mixture and cooking liquid, leaving 1/2-
inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.








                                         CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES     
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      ZUCCHINI-PINEAPPLE                     /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style              ______________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size    0-1000 ft.       1000-5000 ft.        5001-8000 ft.  /
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Pints or     15 min.           20 min.               25 min.     /
/           Quarts                                                           /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ASPARAGUS--SPEARS OR PIECES                          
-DOC-
                          ASPARAGUS--SPEARS OR PIECES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 24-1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; 
an average of 16 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A crate weighs
31 pounds and yields 7 to 12 quarts--an average of 3-1/2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Use tender, tight-tipped spears, 4 to 6 inches long.  

PROCEDURE:  Wash asparagus and trim off tough scales.  Break off tough stems
and wash again.  Cut into 1-inch pieces or can whole.
    HOT PACK--Cover asparagus with boiling water.  Boil 2 or 3 minutes.
    Loosely fill jars with hot asparagus, leaving 1-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with raw asparagus, packing as tightly as possible
    without crushing, leaving 1-inch headspace.
Add 1 teaspoon salt per quart, if desired.  Add boiling water, leaving 1-inch
headspace.  Adjust lids and process.



                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      ASPARAGUS                              #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  30 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  and                                                                       #
#  Raw   Quarts 40 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      ASPARAGUS                              @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          30 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  and                                                                       @
@  Raw      Quarts         40 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEANS OR PEAS--SHELLED, DRIED                         
-DOC-
                         BEANS OR PEAS--SHELLED, DRIED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

ALL VARIETIES

QUANTITY:  An average of 16 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an
average of 10 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints--an average of 2-1/4
pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select mature, dry seeds.  Sort out and discard discolored seeds.

PROCEDURE:  Place dried beans or peas in a large pot and cover with water. 
Soak 12 to 18 hours in a cool place.  Drain water.  To quickly hydrate beans,
you may cover sorted and washed beans with boiling water in a saucepan.  Boil 2
minutes, remove from heat, soak 1 hour, and drain.  Cover beans soaked by
either method with fresh water and boil 30 minutes.  Add 1/2 teaspoon of salt
per pint or 1 teaspoon per quart, if desired.  Fill jars with beans or peas and
cooking water, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.


                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      BEANS OR PEAS--SHELLED, DRIED          #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  75 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#        Quarts 90 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      BEANS OR PEAS--SHELLED, DRIED          @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          75 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts         90 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DRY BEANS WITH TOMATO OR MOLASSES SAUCE                    
-DOC-
                    DRY BEANS WITH TOMATO OR MOLASSES SAUCE
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 16 pounds of beans is needed per canner load of 7
quarts; an average of 10 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints--an
average of 2-1/4 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select mature, dry seeds.  Sort out and discard discolored seeds.

PROCEDURE:  Sort and wash dry beans.  Add 3 cups of water for each cup of dried
beans or peas.  Boil 2 minutes, remove from heat and soak 1 hour and drain. 
Heat to boiling in fresh water, and save liquid for making sauce.  Make your
choice of the following sauces:
    TOMATO SAUCE--Mix 1 quart tomato juice, 3 tablespoons sugar, 2 teaspoons
    salt, 1 tablespoon chopped onion, and 1/4 teaspoon each of ground cloves,
    allspice, mace, and cayenne.  Heat to boiling.  Mix 1 cup tomato sauce
    with 3 cups of cooking liquid from beans and heat to boiling.
    MOLASSES SAUCE--Mix 4 cups water or cooking liquid from beans, 3
    tablespoons dark molasses, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 2 teaspoons salt, and 3/4
    teaspoon dry mustard.  Heat to boiling.
Fill jars three-fourths full with hot beans.  Add a 3/4-inch cut of pork, ham,
or bacon to each jar, if desired.  Fill jars with heated sauce, leaving 1-inch
headspace.  Adjust lids and process.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for     DRY BEANS WITH TOMATO OR MOLASSES SAUCE #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  65 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#        Quarts 75 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################
                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for     DRY BEANS WITH TOMATO OR MOLASSES SAUCE @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          65 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts         75 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"

















-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BAKED BEANS                                  
-DOC-
                                  BAKED BEANS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 16 pounds of beans is needed per canner load of 7
quarts; an average of 10 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints-an average
of 2-1/4 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select mature, dry seeds.  Sort out and discard discolored seeds.

PROCEDURE:  Sort and wash dry beans.  Add 3 cups of water for each cup of dried
beans or peas.  Boil 2 minutes, remove from heat and soak 1 hour and drain. 
Heat to boiling in fresh water, and save liquid for making sauce.  Make a
molasses sauce--Mix 4 cups water or cooking liquid from beans, 3 tablespoons
dark molasses, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 2 teaspoons salt, and 3/4 teaspoon dry
mustard.  Heat to boiling.  Place seven 3/4-inch pieces of pork, ham, or bacon
in an earthenware crock, a large casserole, or a pan.  Add beans and enough
molasses sauce to cover beans.  Cover and bake 4 to 5 hours at 350 degrees
Fahrenheit.  Add water as needed--about every hour.  Fill jars, leaving 1-inch
headspace.  Adjust lids and process.

                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      BAKED BEANS                            #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  65 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#        Quarts 75 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for     BAKED BEANS                             @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          65 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts         75 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FRESH LIMA BEANS, SHELLED                           
-DOC-
                           FRESH LIMA BEANS, SHELLED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 28 pounds of shelled lima beans is needed per canner
load of 7 quarts; an average of 18 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints. 
A bushel weighs 32 pounds and yields 6 to 10 quarts--an average of 4 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Select well-filled pods with green seeds.  Discard insect-damaged and
diseased seeds.

PROCEDURE:  Shell beans and wash thoroughly.
    HOT PACK--Cover raw beans with boiling water and heat to boil.  Fill
    jars loosely, leaving 1-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with raw beans.  Do not press or shake down.
        SMALL BEANS - leave 1-inch headspace for pints and 1-1/2 inches for
        quarts.
        LARGE BEANS - leave 1 inch headspace for pints and 1-1/4 inches for    
        quarts. 
Add 1 teaspoon of salt per quart, if desired.  Add boiling water, leaving the
headspaces listed above.  Adjust lids and process.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      LIMA BEANS                             #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  40 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  and                                                                       #
#  Raw   Quarts 50 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      LIMA BEANS                             @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          40 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  and                                                                       @
@  Raw      Quarts         50 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREEN BEANS                                  
-DOC-
                                  GREEN BEANS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 14 pounds of beans is needed per canner load of 7
quarts; an average of 9 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel
weighs 30 pounds and yields 12 to 20 quarts--an average of 2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select filled but tender, crisp pods.  Remove and discard diseased and
rusty pods.

PROCEDURE:  Wash beans and trim ends.  Leave whole or cut or snap into 1-inch
pieces.
    HOT PACK--Cover with boiling water; boil 5 minutes.  Fill jars loosely
    leaving 1-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars tightly with raw beans, leaving 1-inch headspace.  
Add 1 teaspoon of salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Add boiling water,
leaving 1-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.



                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      GREEN BEANS                            #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  20 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  and                                                                       #
#  Raw   Quarts 25 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      GREEN BEANS                            @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          20 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  and                                                                       @
@  Raw      Quarts         25 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ITALIAN GREEN BEANS                              
-DOC-
                              ITALIAN GREEN BEANS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 14 pounds of beans is needed per canner load of 7
quarts; an average of 9 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel
weighs 30 pounds and yields 12 to 20 quarts--an average of 2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select filled but tender, crisp pods.  Remove and discard diseased and
rusty pods.

PROCEDURE:  Wash beans and trim ends.  Leave whole or cut or snap into 1-inch
pieces.
    HOT PACK--Cover with boiling water; boil 5 minutes.  Fill jars loosely
    leaving 1-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars tightly with raw beans, leaving 1-inch headspace.  
Add 1 teaspoon of salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Add boiling water,
leaving 1-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.



                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      ITALIAN GREEN BEANS                    #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  20 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  and                                                                       #
#  Raw   Quarts 25 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      ITALIAN GREEN BEANS                    @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          20 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  and                                                                       @
@  Raw      Quarts         25 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WAX BEANS                                   
-DOC-
                                   WAX BEANS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 14 pounds of beans is needed per canner load of 7
quarts; an average of 9 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel
weighs 30 pounds and yields 12 to 20 quarts--an average of 2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select filled but tender, crisp pods.  Remove and discard diseased
and rusty pods.

PROCEDURE:  Wash beans and trim ends.  Leave whole or cut or snap into 1-inch
pieces.
    HOT PACK--Cover with boiling water; boil 5 minutes.  Fill jars, loosely
    leaving 1-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars tightly with raw beans, leaving 1-inch headspace.  
Add 1 teaspoon of salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Add boiling water,
leaving 1-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.



                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      WAX BEANS                              #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  20 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  and                                                                       #
#  Raw   Quarts 25 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      WAX BEANS                              @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          20 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  and                                                                       @
@  Raw      Quarts         25 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEETS--WHOLE, CUBED, OR SLICED                        
-DOC-
                        BEETS--WHOLE, CUBED, OR SLICED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 21 pounds of beets (without tops) is needed per canner
load of 7 quarts; an average of 13-1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 9
pints.  A bushel (without tops) weighs 52 pounds and yields 15 to 20 quarts--an
average of 3 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Beets with a diameter of 1 to 2 inches are preferred for whole packs. 
Beets larger than 3 inches in diameter are often fibrous.

PROCEDURE:  Trim off beet tops, leaving an inch of stem and roots to reduce
bleeding of color.  Scrub well.  Cover with boiling water.  Boil until skins
slip off easily; about 15 to 25 minutes depending on size.  Cool, remove skins,
and trim off stems and roots.  Leave baby beets whole.  Cut medium or large
beets into 1/2-inch cubes or slices.  Halve or quarter very large slices.  Add
1 teaspoon of salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Fill jars with hot beets
and fresh hot water, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.


                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      BEETS                                  #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  30 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  and                                                                       #
#  Raw   Quarts 35 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      BEETS                                  @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          30 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  and                                                                       @
@  Raw      Quarts         35 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CARROTS--SLICED OR DICED                           
-DOC-
                           CARROTS--SLICED OR DICED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 17-1/2 pounds of carrots (without tops) is needed per
canner load of 7 quarts; an average of 11 pounds is needed per canner load of 9
pints.  A bushel (without tops) weighs 50 pounds and yields 17 to 25 quarts--an
average of 2-1/2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select small carrots, preferably 1 to 1-1/4 inches in diameter. 
Larger carrots are often too fibrous.

PROCEDURE:  Wash, peel, and rewash carrots.  Slice or dice.
    HOT PACK--Cover with boiling water; bring to boil and simmer for 5 minutes.
    Fill jars, leaving 1-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars tightly with raw carrots, leaving 1-inch headspace.
Add 1 teaspoon salt per quart, if desired.  Add hot cooking liquid or water,
leaving 1-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.



                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      CARROTS                                #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  25 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  and                                                                       #
#  Raw   Quarts 30 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      CARROTS                                @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          25 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  and                                                                       @
@  Raw      Quarts         30 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN--CREAM STYLE                               
-DOC-
                               CORN--CREAM STYLE
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 20 pounds of corn (in husks) is needed per canner load
of 9 pints.  A bushel weighs 35 pounds and yields 12 to 20 pints--an average of
2-1/4 pounds per pint.

QUALITY:  Select ears containing slightly immature kernels, or of ideal quality
for eating fresh.

PROCEDURE:  Husk corn, remove silk, and wash ears.  Cut corn from cob at about
the center of kernel.  Scrape remaining corn from cobs with a table knife.
    HOT PACK--To each quart of corn and scrapings in a saucepan, add two cups
    of boiling water.  Heat to boiling.  Add 1/2 teaspoon salt to each jar, if
    desired.  Fill pint jar with hot corn mixture, leaving 1-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill pint jars with raw corn, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Do not
    shake or press down.  Add 1/2 teaspoon salt to each jar, if desired.  Add 
    fresh boiling water, leaving 1-inch headspace.
Adjust lids and process.

                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for     CORN--CREAM STYLE                       #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  85 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#  Raw   Pints  95 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      CORN--CREAM STYLE                      @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          85 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@  Raw      Pints          95 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN--WHOLE KERNEL                              
-DOC-
                              CORN--WHOLE KERNEL
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 31-1/2 pounds of sweet corn (in husks) is needed per
canner load of 7 quarts; an average of 20 pounds is needed per canner load of 9
pints.  A bushel weighs 35 pounds and yields 6 to 11 quarts--an average of 4-
1/2 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Select ears containing slightly immature kernels of ideal quality for
eating fresh or cooking.  Canning some sweeter varieties or too immature
kernels may cause browning.  Can a small amount, check color and flavor before
canning large quantities.

PROCEDURE:  Husk corn, remove silk, and wash.  Blanch 3 minutes in boiling
water.  Cut corn from cob at about two-thirds the depth of kernel.  CAUTION: 
DO NOT SCRAPE COB.
    HOT PACK--To each clean quart of kernels in a saucepan, add 1 cup of hot 
    water, heat to boiling, and simmer 5 minutes.  Add 1 teaspoon of salt per
    quart, if desired.  Fill jars with corn and cooking liquid, leaving 1-inch
    headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with raw kernels, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Do not
    shake or press down.  Add 1 teaspoon of salt per quart to the jar, if
    desired.  Add fresh boiling water, leaving 1-inch headspace.
Adjust lids and process.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////











                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      CORN--WHOLE KERNEL                     #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  55 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  and                                                                       #
#  Raw   Quarts 85 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################








                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      CORN--WHOLE KERNEL                     @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          55 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  and                                                                       @
@  Raw      Quarts         85 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MIXED VEGETABLES                               
-DOC-
                               MIXED VEGETABLES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

SUGGESTED MIX

6 cups carrots, sliced                 6 cups lima beans, shelled
6 cups whole kernel sweet corn, cut    4 cups tomatoes, whole or crushed
6 cups green beans, cut                4 cups zucchini, diced

OPTIONAL MIX--You may change the suggested proportions or substitute other
favorite vegetables.

YIELD:  7 quarts

PREPARE AND WASH VEGETABLES:  Carrots--wash, peel, rewash carrots, and slice. 
Sweet corn--husk, remove silk, wash, and cut.  Green beans--wash and trim ends,
cut into 1-inch pieces.  Lima beans--shell beans and wash thoroughly.  Tomatoes-
 wash and dip in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds or until skins split.  Then
dip in cold water, slip off skins, and remove cores.  Trim off any bruised or
discolored portions and quarter.  Zucchini--wash, trim, slice, or cube.

PROCEDURE:  Combine all vegetables in a large pot or kettle, and add enough
water to cover pieces.  Add 1 teaspoon salt per quart to the jar, if desired. 
Boil 5 minutes and fill jars with hot pieces and liquid, leaving 1-inch
headspace.  Adjust lids and process.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////










                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for     MIXED VEGETABLES                        #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  55 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#        Quarts 85 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################



 




                                         CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      MIXED VEGETABLES                       @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          55 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts         85 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MUSHROOMS--WHOLE OR SLICED                          
-DOC-
                          MUSHROOMS--WHOLE OR SLICED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 14-1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints; an
average of 7-1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 half-pints--an average
of 2 pounds per pint.

QUALITY:  Select only brightly colored, small to medium-size domestic mushrooms
with short stems, tight veils (unopened caps), and no discoloration.  CAUTION: 
DO NOT CAN WILD MUSHROOMS.

PROCEDURE:  Trim stems and discolored parts.  Soak in cold water for 10 minutes
to remove dirt.  Wash in clean water.  Leave small mushrooms whole; cut large
ones.  Cover with water in a saucepan and boil 5 minutes.  Fill jars with hot
mushrooms, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Add 1/2 teaspoon of salt per pint, to the
jar, if desired.  For better color, add 1/8 teaspoon of ascorbic acid powder,
or a 500-milligram tablet of vitamin C.  Add fresh hot water, leaving 1-inch
headspace.  Adjust lids and process.


                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      MUSHROOMS                              #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Half-                                                               #
#        Pints  45 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#         or                                                                 # 
#        Quarts                                                              #
##############################################################################

                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      MUSHROOMS                              @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Half-                                                            @
@           Pints          45 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@            or                                                              @
@           Quarts                                                           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OKRA--WHOLE OR CUT                              
-DOC-
                              OKRA--WHOLE OR CUT
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 11 pounds of okra is needed per canner load of 7
quarts; an average of 7 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel
weighs 26 pounds and yields 16 to 18 quarts--an average of 1-1/2 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Select young, tender pods.  Remove and discard diseased and rust-
spotted pods.

PROCEDURE:  Wash pods and trim ends.  Leave whole or cut into 1-inch pieces. 
Cover with hot water in a saucepan, boil 2 minutes, and drain.  Fill jars with
hot okra and cooking liquid, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Add 1 teaspoon of salt
per quart to the jar, if desired.  Adjust and process.





                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      OKRA--WHOLE OR CUT                     #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  25 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#        Quarts 40 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      OKRA--WHOLE OR CUT                     @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          25 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts         40 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEAS, GREEN OR ENGLISH--SHELLED                        
-DOC-
                        PEAS, GREEN OR ENGLISH--SHELLED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT SUGAR SNAP AND CHINESE EDIBLE PODS BE FROZEN FOR BEST
QUALITY. 

QUANTITY:  An average of 31-1/2 pounds of peas (in pods) is needed per canner
load of 7 quarts; an average of 20 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints. 
A bushel weighs 30 pounds and yields 5 to 10 quarts--an average of 4-1/2 pounds
per quart.

QUALITY:  Select filled pods containing young, tender, sweet seeds.  Discard
diseased pods.

PROCEDURE:  Shell and wash peas.  Add 1 teaspoon of salt per quart, if desired.
    HOT PACK--Cover with boiling water.  Bring to a boil in a saucepan, and
    boil 2 minutes.  Fill jars loosely with hot peas, and add cooking liquid,
    leaving 1-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with raw peas, add boiling water, leaving 1-inch 
    headspace.  Do not shake or press down peas.  
Adjust lids and process.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      PEAS                                   #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  40 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  and    or                                                                 #
#  Raw   Quarts                                                              #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      PEAS                                   @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          40 min.         10 lb.             15 lb.         @
@  and       or                                                              @
@  Raw      Quarts                                                           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHILE PEPPERS                                 
-DOC-
                                 CHILE PEPPERS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 9 pounds of peppers is needed per canner load of 9
pints.  A bushel weighs 25 pounds and yields 20 to 30 pints--an average of 1
pound per pint.

QUALITY:  Select firm peppers.  Do not use soft or diseased peppers.

CAUTION:  IN WORKING WITH CHILE PEPPERS, WEAR PLASTIC GLOVES WHILE HANDLING
THEM OR WASH HANDS THOROUGHLY WITH SOAP AND WATER BEFORE TOUCHING YOUR FACE. 

PROCEDURE:  Small peppers may be left whole.  Large peppers may be quartered. 
Remove cores and seeds.  Slash two to four slits in each pepper, and either
blanch in boiling water or blister using one of the following methods:  
     Oven or broiler method:  Place chiles in hot oven (400 degrees) or 
     broiler for 6-8 minutes until skins blister.
     Range top method:  Cover hot burner either gas or electric, with heavy
     wire mesh.  Place chiles on burner for several minutes until skins
     blister.
Allow peppers to cool.  Place in a pan and cover with a damp cloth.  This will
make peeling the peppers easier.  After several minutes, peel each pepper.  
Flatten whole peppers.  Add 1/2 teaspoon of salt to each pint jar, if desired. 
Fill jars loosely with peppers and cooking liquid, leaving 1-inch headspace. 
Adjust lids and process.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for       CHILE PEPPERS                         #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  35 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################
                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for       CHILE PEPPERS                         @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          35 min.         10 lb.             15 lb.         @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JALAPENO PEPPERS                               
-DOC-
                               JALAPENO PEPPERS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 9 pounds of peppers is needed per canner load of 9
pints.  A bushel weighs 25 pounds and yields 20 to 30 pints--an average of 1
pound per pint.

QUALITY:  Select firm peppers.  Do not use soft or diseased peppers.

CAUTION:  IN WORKING WITH JALAPENO PEPPERS, WEAR PLASTIC GLOVES WHILE HANDLING
THEM OR WASH HANDS THOROUGHLY WITH SOAP AND WATER BEFORE TOUCHING YOUR FACE.  

PROCEDURE:  Small peppers may be left whole.  Large peppers may be quartered. 
Remove cores and seeds.  Slash two to four slits in each pepper, and either
blanch in boiling water or blister using one of the following methods:  
     Oven or broiler method:  Place peppers in hot oven (400 degrees) or 
     broiler for 6-8 minutes until skins blister.
     Range top method:  Cover hot burner, either gas or electric, with heavy
     wire mesh.  Place peppers on burner for several minutes until skins
     blister.
Allow peppers to cool.  Place in a pan and cover with a damp cloth.  This will
make peeling the peppers easier.  After several minutes, peel each pepper.  
Flatten whole peppers.  Add 1/2 teaspoon of salt to each pint jar, if desired. 
Fill jars loosely with peppers and cooking liquid, leaving 1-inch headspace. 
Adjust lids and process.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for       JALAPENO PEPPERS                      #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  35 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################
                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      JALAPENO PEPPERS                       @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          35 min.         10 lb.             15 lb.         @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PIMIENTO PEPPERS                               
-DOC-
                               PIMIENTO PEPPERS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 9 pounds of peppers is needed per canner load of 9
pints.  A bushel weighs 25 pounds and yields 20 to 30 pints--an average of 1
pound per pint.

QUALITY:  Select firm red peppers.  Do not use soft or diseased peppers.

PROCEDURE:  Small peppers may be left whole.  Large peppers may be quartered. 
Remove cores and seeds.  Slash two to four slits in each pepper, and either
blanch in boiling water or blister using one of the following methods:  
     Oven or broiler method:  Place peppers in hot oven (400 degrees) or 
     broiler for 6-8 minutes until skins blister.
     Range top method:  Cover hot burner, either gas or electric, with heavy
     wire mesh.  Place peppers on burner for several minutes until skins
     blister.
Allow peppers to cool.  Place in a pan and cover with a damp cloth.  This will
make peeling the peppers easier.  After several minutes, peel each pepper.  
Flatten whole peppers.  Add 1/2 teaspoon of salt to each pint jar, if desired. 
Fill jars loosely with peppers and cooking liquid, leaving 1-inch headspace. 
Adjust lids and process.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for       PIMIENTO PEPPERS                      #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  35 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for       PIMIENTO PEPPERS                      @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          35 min.         10 lb.             15 lb.         @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEPPERS--HOT OR SWEET                             
-DOC-
                             PEPPERS--HOT OR SWEET
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 9 pounds of peppers is needed per canner load of 9
pints.  A bushel weighs 25 pounds and yields 20 to 30 pints--an average of 1
pound per pint.

QUALITY:  Select firm yellow, green, or red peppers.  Do not use soft or
diseased peppers.

PROCEDURE:  Select your favorite pepper(s).  CAUTION:  IF YOU CHOOSE HOT
PEPPERS, WEAR PLASTIC GLOVES WHILE HANDLING THEM OR WASH HANDS THOROUGHLY WITH
SOAP AND WATER BEFORE TOUCHING YOUR FACE.  Small peppers may be left whole. 
Large peppers may be quartered.  Remove cores and seeds.  Slash two to four
slits in each pepper, and either blanch in boiling water or blister using one
of the following methods:  
     Oven or broiler method:  Place peppers in hot oven (400 degrees) or 
     broiler for 6-8 minutes until skins blister.
     Range top method:  Cover hot burner, either gas or electric, with heavy
     wire mesh.  Place peppers on burner for several minutes until skins
     blister.
Allow peppers to cool.  Place in a pan and cover with a damp cloth.  This will
make peeling the peppers easier.  After several minutes, peel each pepper.  
Flatten whole peppers.  Add 1/2 teaspoon of salt to each pint jar, if desired. 
Fill jars loosely with peppers and cooking liquid, leaving 1-inch headspace. 
Adjust lids and process.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////









                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for       PEPPERS--HOT OR SWEET                 #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  35 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################










                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      PEPPERS--HOT OR SWEET                  @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          35 min.         10 lb.             15 lb.         @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POTATOES, SWEET--PIECES OR WHOLE                       
-DOC-
                       POTATOES, SWEET--PIECES OR WHOLE
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED TO DRY-PACK SWEET POTATOES.

QUANTITY:  An average of 17-1/2 pounds of sweet potatoes is needed per canner
load of 7 quarts; an average of 11 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints. 
A bushel weighs 50 pounds and yields 17 to 25 quarts--an average of 2-1/2
pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Choose small to medium-sized potatoes.  They should be mature and not
too fibrous.  Can within 1 to 2 months after harvest.

PROCEDURE:  Wash potatoes and boil or steam until partially soft (15 to 20
minutes).  Remove skins.  Cut medium potatoes, if needed, so that pieces are
uniform in size.  CAUTION: DO NOT MASH OR PUREE PIECES.  Fill jars, leaving 1-
inch headspace.  Add 1 teaspoon salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Cover
with your choice of fresh boiling water or syrup.  Access syrup preparation by
choosing the FRUIT menu and then SYRUPS FOR PACKING FRUIT.  Leave 1-inch
headspace when adding liquid.  Adjust lids and process.
                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      POTATOES, SWEET--PIECES OR WHOLE       #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  65 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#        Quarts 90 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      POTATOES, SWEET--PIECES OR WHOLE       @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          65 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts         90 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"





-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POTATOES, WHITE--CUBED OR WHOLE                        
-DOC-
                        POTATOES, WHITE--CUBED OR WHOLE
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 35 pounds of potatoes is needed per canner load of 7
quarts; an average of 22-1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A
bushel weighs 50 pounds and yields 8 to 12 quarts--an average of 5 pounds per
quart.

QUALITY:  Select small to medium-size mature potatoes of ideal quality for
cooking.  Tubers stored below 45 degrees Fahrenheit may discolor when canned. 
Choose potatoes 1 to 2 inches in diameter, if they are to be packed whole.

PROCEDURE:  Wash and peel potatoes.  Place in ascorbic acid solution to prevent
darkening.  See below.  If desired, cut into 1/2-inch cubes.  Drain.  Cook 2
minutes in boiling water and drain again.  For whole potatoes, boil 10 minutes
and drain.  Add 1 teaspoon of salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Fill jars
with hot potatoes and fresh hot water, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Adjust lids
and process.

TO PREVENT DISCOLORATION:  Keep cubed or whole potatoes in a solution of 3
grams (3000 milligrams) ascorbic acid to 1 gallon of cold water.  You can get
ascorbic acid in several forms:
       . A pure powdered form--seasonally available among canner's supplies in 
         supermarkets.  One level teaspoon of pure powder weighs about 3 grams. 
         Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a treatment solution.
       . Vitamin C tablets--economical and available year-round in many stores. 
         Buy 500-milligram tablets; crush and dissolve six tablets per gallon  
         of water as a treatment solution.
       . Commercially prepared mixes of ascorbic and citric acid--seasonally   
         available among canners' supplies in supermarkets.  Sometimes citric  
         acid powder is sold in supermarkets, but it is less effective in
         controlling discoloration.  If you choose to use these products,
         follow the manufacturer's directions.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////


                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      POTATOES, WHITE--CUBED OR WHOLE        #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  35 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#        Quarts 40 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################








                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      POTATOES, WHITE--CUBED OR WHOLE        @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          35 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts         40 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PUMPKIN--CUBED                                
-DOC-
                                PUMPKIN--CUBED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 16 pounds of pumpkin is needed per canner load of 7
quarts; an average of 10 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints--an
average of 2-1/4 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Pumpkins should have a hard rind and have stringless, mature pulp of
ideal quality for cooking fresh.  Small size pumpkins (sugar or pie varieties)
make better products.

PROCEDURE:  Wash, remove seeds, cut into inch-wide slices, and peel.  Cut flesh
into 1-inch cubes.  Boil 2 minutes in water.  CAUTION: DO NOT MASH OR PUREE. 
Fill jars with cubes and cooking liquid, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Adjust lids
and process.

For using in recipes, drain jars and strain or sieve cubes.



                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      PUMPKIN--CUBED                         #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  55 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#        Quarts 90 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      PUMPKIN--CUBED                         @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          55 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts         90 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"











-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WINTER SQUASH--CUBED                             
-DOC-
                             WINTER SQUASH--CUBED
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 16 pounds of squash is needed per canner load of 7
quarts; an average of 10 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints--an
average of 2-1/4 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Squash should have a hard rind and have stringless, mature pulp of
ideal quality for cooking fresh. 

PROCEDURE:  Wash, remove seeds, cut into 1-inch wide slices, and peel.  Cut
flesh into 1-inch cubes.  Boil 2 minutes in water.  CAUTION: DO NOT MASH OR
PUREE.  Fill jars with cubes and cooking liquid, leaving 1-inch headspace. 
Adjust lids and process.

For using in recipes, drain jars and strain or sieve cubes.




                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      WINTER SQUASH--CUBED                   #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  55 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#        Quarts 90 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      WINTER SQUASH--CUBED                   @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          55 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts         90 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPINACH                                    
-DOC-
                                    SPINACH
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 28 pounds of spinach is needed per canner load of 7
quarts; an average of 18 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel
weighs 18 pounds and yields 3 to 9 quarts--an average of 4 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Can only freshly harvested spinach.  Discard any wilted, discolored,
diseased, or insect-damaged leaves.  Leaves should be tender and attractive in
color.

PROCEDURE:  Wash only small amounts of spinach at one time.  Drain water and
continue rinsing until water is clear and free of grit.  Cut out tough stems
and midribs.  Place 1 pound of spinach at a time in cheesecloth bag or blancher
basket and steam 3 to 5 minutes or until well wilted.  Add 1/2 teaspoon of salt
per quart, if desired.  Fill jars loosely with wilted spinach and add fresh
boiling water, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.



                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      SPINACH                                #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  70 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#        Quarts 90 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      SPINACH                                @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          70 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts         90 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREENS                                     
-DOC-
                                     GREENS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

QUANTITY:  An average of 28 pounds of greens is needed per canner load of 7
quarts; an average of 18 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel
weighs 18 pounds and yields 3 to 9 quarts--an average of 4 pounds per quart.

QUALITY:  Can only freshly harvested greens.  Discard any wilted, discolored,
diseased, or insect-damaged leaves.  Leaves should be tender and attractive in
color.

PROCEDURE:  Wash only small amounts of greens at one time.  Drain water and
continue rinsing until water is clear and free of grit.  Cut out tough stems
and midribs.  Place 1 pound of greens at a time in cheesecloth bag or blancher
basket and steam 3 to 5 minutes or until well wilted.  Add 1/2 teaspoon of salt
to each quart jar, if desired.  Fill jars loosely with wilted greens and add
fresh boiling water, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.



                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      GREENS                                 #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  70 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#        Quarts 90 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      GREENS                                 @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          70 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts         90 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"




















-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VEGETABLE, MEAT, POULTRY, OR SEAFOOD SOUP                  
-DOC-
                  VEGETABLE, MEAT, POULTRY, OR SEAFOOD SOUP
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

PROCEDURE:  Select, wash, and prepare vegetables, meats, and seafoods as
described for specific foods.  Cover meat with water and cook until tender. 
Cool meat and remove bones.  Cook vegetables.   If dried beans are included,
for each cup of dried beans, add 3 cups of water, boil 2 minutes, remove from
heat, soak 1 hour, and heat to boil.  Drain and combine with meat broth,
tomatoes, or water to cover.  Boil 5 minutes.  CAUTION: DO NOT THICKEN.  Salt
to taste, if desired.  Fill jars halfway with solid mixture.  Add remaining
liquid, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Adjust lids and process.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables,   /
/  meats, or seafood.  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a   /
/  real risk of botulism, the most dangerous type of food poisoning.         /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////



                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for   VEGETABLE, MEAT, POULTRY, OR SEAFOOD SOUP # 
#   a dial-gauge pressure canner                                             #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  60 min.*   11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            #
#        Quarts 75 min.*   11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################

* CAUTION:  PROCESS 100 MINUTES IF SOUP CONTAINS SEAFOOD.






                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for   VEGETABLE, MEAT, POULTRY, OR SEAFOOD SOUP @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          60 min.*         10 lb.             15 lb.        @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts         75 min.*         10 lb.             15 lb.        @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

*CAUTION:  PROCESS 100 MINUTES IF SOUP CONTAINS SEAFOOD.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ADULT DAY CARE DEFINED                         
-DOC-
                         ADULT DAY CARE DEFINED
Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life and Human Development Specialist 

     Adult day care usually is a health-related and/or social-related
program maintained and operated during specific hours of the day.  The
purpose is to provide care and/or treatment for adults whose conditions
are so that they can benefit from the program.  This would include adults
who do not require 24-hour nursing care or hospitalization, but need more
than occasional home services or recreational activities.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUCCOTASH                                   
-DOC-
                                   SUCCOTASH
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

15 pounds unhusked sweet corn or 3 quarts cut whole kernels
14 pounds mature green podded lima beans or 4 quarts shelled limas
2 quarts crushed or whole tomatoes (optional)

YIELD:  7 quarts

PROCEDURE:  Wash and prepare fresh produce.  Sweet Corn--husk, remove silk, and
wash.  Blanch 3 minutes in boiling water.  Cut corn from cob at about two-
thirds the depth of kernel.  Do not scrape cob.  Lima Beans--shell beans and
wash thoroughly.  Tomatoes--wash and dip in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds
or until skins split.  Then dip in cold water, slip off skins, and remove
cores.  Trim off any bruised or discolored potions and quarter.
    HOT PACK--Combine all prepared vegetables in a large kettle with enough
    water to cover the pieces.  Add 1 teaspoon salt to each quart jar, 
    if desired.
    Boil gently 5 minutes and fill jars with pieces and cooking liquid, leaving
    1-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Fill jars with equal parts of all prepared vegetables, leaving 
    1-inch headspace.  Do not shake or press down pieces.  Add 1 teaspoon salt
    to each quart, if desired.  Add fresh boiling water, leaving 1-inch
    headspace.
Adjust lids and process.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning vegetables.   /
/  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism,/
/  the most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////










                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      SUCCOTASH                              #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  60 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  and                                                                       #
#  Raw   Quarts 85 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################








                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      SUCCOTASH                              @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints          60 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  and                                                                       @
@  Raw      Quarts         80 min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHICKEN WITH BONES                              
-DOC-
                              CHICKEN WITH BONES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

PROCEDURE:  Choose freshly killed and dressed, healthy animals.  Large chickens
are more flavorful than fryers.  Dressed chicken should be chilled for 6 to 12
hours before canning.  Remove excess fat.  Cut chicken into suitable sizes for
canning.
    HOT PACK--Boil, steam, or bake meat until about two-thirds done.  Add 1 
    teaspoon salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Fill jars with pieces and
    hot broth, leaving 1-1/4-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Add 1 teaspoon salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Fill jars
    loosely with raw meat pieces, leaving 1-1/4-inch headspace.  Do not add
    liquid.
Adjust lids and process.






                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning meats.  Using /
/  boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism, the  /
/  most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      CHICKEN WITH BONES                     #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  65 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  or                                                                        # 
#  Raw   Quarts 75 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      CHICKEN WITH BONES                     @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints         65  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  or                                                                        @
@  Raw      Quarts        75  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHICKEN WITHOUT BONES                             
-DOC-
                             CHICKEN WITHOUT BONES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

PROCEDURE:  Choose freshly killed and dressed, healthy animals.  Large chickens
are more flavorful than fryers.  Dressed chicken should be chilled for 6 to 12
hours before canning.  Remove excess fat.  Cut chicken into suitable sizes,
removing from bones.
    HOT PACK--Boil, steam, or bake meat until about two-thirds done.  Add 1 
    teaspoon salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Fill jars with pieces and
    hot broth, leaving 1-1/4-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Add 1 teaspoon salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Fill jars
    loosely with raw meat pieces, leaving 1-1/4-inch headspace.  Do not add
    liquid.
Adjust lids and process.






                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning meats.  Using /
/  boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism, the  /
/  most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      CHICKEN WITHOUT BONES                  #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  75 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  or                                                                        # 
#  Raw   Quarts 90 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      CHICKEN WITHOUT BONES                  @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints         75  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  or                                                                        @
@  Raw      Quarts        90  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RABBIT WITH BONES                               
-DOC-
                               RABBIT WITH BONES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

PROCEDURE:  Choose freshly killed and dressed, healthy animals.  Dressed
rabbits should be soaked 1 hour in water containing 1 tablespoon salt per quart
and then rinsed.  Remove excess fat.  Cut rabbit into suitable sizes for
canning.       
    HOT PACK--Boil, steam, or bake meat until about two-thirds done.  Add 1 
    teaspoon salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Fill jars with pieces and
    hot broth, leaving 1-1/4-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Add 1 teaspoon salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Fill jars
    loosely with raw meat pieces, leaving 1-1/4-inch headspace.  Do not add
    liquid.
Adjust lids and process.






                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning meats.  Using /
/  boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism, the  /
/  most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      RABBIT WITH BONES                      #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  65 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  or                                                                        # 
#  Raw   Quarts 75 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      RABBIT WITH BONES                      @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints         65  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  or                                                                        @
@  Raw      Quarts        75  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RABBIT WITHOUT BONES                             
-DOC-
                             RABBIT WITHOUT BONES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

PROCEDURE:  Choose freshly killed and dressed, healthy animals.  Dressed
rabbits should be soaked 1 hour in water containing 1 tablespoon of salt per
quart and then rinsed.  Remove excess fat.  Cut rabbit into suitable sizes,
removing from bones.
    HOT PACK--Boil, steam, or bake meat until about two-thirds done.  Add 1 
    teaspoon salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Fill jars with pieces and
    hot broth, leaving 1-1/4-inch headspace.
    RAW PACK--Add 1 teaspoon salt per quart to the jar, if desired.  Fill jars
    loosely with raw meat pieces, leaving 1-1/4-inch headspace.  Do not add
    liquid.
Adjust lids and process.






                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning meats.  Using /
/  boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism, the  /
/  most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      RABBIT WITHOUT BONES                   #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  75 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#  or                                                                        # 
#  Raw   Quarts 90 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      RABBIT WITHOUT BONES                   @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints         75  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@  or                                                                        @
@  Raw      Quarts        90  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GROUND OR CHOPPED BEEF                            
-DOC-
                            GROUND OR CHOPPED BEEF
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

PROCEDURE:  Choose fresh, chilled meat.  Shape chopped meat into patties or
balls.  Cook until lightly browned.  Ground meat may be sauteed without
shaping.  Remove excess fat.  Fill jars with pieces.  Add boiling meat broth,
tomato juice, or water, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Add 2 teaspoons of salt per
quart to the jar, if desired.  Adjust lids and process.












                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning meats.  Using /
/  boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism, the  /
/  most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      GROUND OR CHOPPED BEEF                 #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  75 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            # 
#        Quarts 90 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      GROUND OR CHOPPED BEEF                 @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints         75  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts        90  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GROUND OR CHOPPED BEAR                            
-DOC-
                            GROUND OR CHOPPED BEAR
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

PROCEDURE:  Choose fresh, chilled meat.  Shape chopped meat into patties or
balls.  Cook until lightly browned.  Ground meat may be sauteed without
shaping.  Remove excess fat.  Fill jars with pieces.  Add boiling meat broth,
tomato juice, or water, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Add 2 teaspoons of salt per
quart to the jar, if desired.  Adjust lids and process.












                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning meats.  Using /
/  boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism, the  /
/  most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      GROUND OR CHOPPED BEAR                 #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  75 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            # 
#        Quarts 90 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      GROUND OR CHOPPED BEAR                 @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints         75  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts        90  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GROUND OR CHOPPED LAMB                            
-DOC-
                            GROUND OR CHOPPED LAMB
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

PROCEDURE:  Choose fresh, chilled meat.  Shape chopped meat into patties or
balls.  Cook until lightly browned.  Ground meat may be sauteed without
shaping.  Remove excess fat.  Fill jars with pieces.  Add boiling meat broth,
tomato juice, or water, leaving 1-inch headspace.  Add 2 teaspoons of salt per
quart to the jars, if desired.  Adjust lids and process.












                                          CONTINUE FOR PROCESSING TIMES
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/  Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning meats.  Using /
/  boiling water canners for these foods poses a real risk of botulism, the  /
/  most dangerous type of food poisoning.                                    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

##############################################################################
#   Recommended process time for      GROUND OR CHOPPED LAMB                 #
#   in a dial-gauge pressure canner                                          #
#                            Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of           #
#  Style                 ___________________________________________________ #
#  of    Jar    Process                                                      #
#  Pack  size   Time     0-2000 ft. 2001-4000 ft. 4001-6000 ft. 6001-8000 ft.#
# ___________________________________________________________________________#
#  Hot   Pints  75 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
#                                                                            # 
#        Quarts 90 min.    11 lb.      12 lb.        13 lb.        14 lb.    #
##############################################################################


                                          CONTINUE FOR MORE CANNER INFORMATION
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@   Recommended process time for      GROUND OR CHOPPED LAMB                 @
@   in a weighted-gauge pressure canner                                      @
@                                     Canner Pressure (PSI) at Altitudes of  @
@  Style                              ____________________________________   @
@  of Pack  Jar size    Process Time     0-1000 ft.        Above 1000 ft.    @
@____________________________________________________________________________@
@  Hot      Pints         75  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@                                                                            @
@           Quarts        90  min.         10 lb.           15 lb.           @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHECKLIST FOR EVALUATING NURSING HOMES                    
-DOC-
                    CHECKLIST FOR EVALUATING NURSING HOMES
Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life and Human Development Specialist

   I.  General Atmosphere

   A.  Are visitors welcome?
       1.  Are you encouraged to tour freely during posted visiting
           hours.  (Not when patients are being fed, given
           medications, or being bathed, please.)
       2.  Do staff members answer questions willingly?

   B.  Is the home clean and odor-free?

   C.  Is the staff pleasant, friendly, cheerful, affectionate?

   D.  Are lounges available for socializing?





  II.  Patients' Morale

   A.  Are patients called patronizingly by their first names or
       addressed with dignity as "Mr.," "Mrs.," "Miss _____________?"

   B.  Are they dressed in night clothes or street clothes?  Getting     
       dressed improves morale.

   C.  Do many of them appear over-sedated?

   D.  Are they allowed to have some of their own possessions?

   E.  Are they given sufficient privacy?
       1.  Are married couples kept together?
       2.  Are "sweethearts" given a place to visit with each other in
           complete privacy?

   F.  Is good grooming encouraged?
       1.  Beautician and barber available?

   G.  Is tipping necessary to obtain services?
 III.  Licensing

   A.  State Nursing Home License

   B.  Nursing Home Administrator License

   C.  Joint Committee on Accreditation of Hospital Certificate
       (Optional)

   D.  American Association of Homes for the Aging (only for non profit  
       facilities.)

   E.  American Nursing Home Association


  IV.  Location

   A.  Is it convenient for visiting?

   B.  Is the neighborhood safe for ambulatory residents?

   C.  Is there an outdoor garden with benches?

   V.  Safety Considerations

   A.  Does the home meet federal and state fire codes?
       1.  Ask to see the latest inspection report.
       2.  Are regular fire drills scheduled?

   B.  Is the home accident-proof?
       1.  Good lighting?
       2.  Hand rails and grab bars in hall and bathrooms?
       3.  No scatter rugs or easily tipped chairs?
       4.  No obstructions in corridors?
       5.  Stairway doors kept closed?


 VII.  Living Arrangements

   A.  Are the bedrooms comfortable and spacious?

   B.  Is the furniture appropriate?
       1.  Enough drawer and closet space?
       2.  Doors and drawers easy to open?
       3.  Can residents furnish their rooms with personal items?

   C.  Can closets and drawers be locked?

   D.  Is there enough space between beds, through doorways, and in     
       corridors for wheelchairs?

   E.  Are there enough elevators for the number of patients?
       1.  Are elevators large enough for wheelchairs?


VIII.  Food Service

   A.  Is there a qualified dietician in charge?
       1.  Are special therapeutic diets followed?
       2.  Are individual food preferences considered?

   B.  Are you welcome to inspect the kitchen?
   C.  Are menus posted?

   D.  Are dining rooms cheerful?
       1.  Are patients encouraged to eat in the dining room rather than
           at the bedside?
       2.  Is there room between the tables for the passage of
           wheelchairs?

   E.  Are bedridden patients fed when necessary?
       1.  Is food left uneaten on trays?

   F.  Are snacks available between meals and at bedtime?
       1.  Are snacks scheduled too close to meals in order to
           accommodate staff shifts?
       2.  Is there too long a period between supper and breakfast the
           next morning?


  IX.  Medical Service

   A.  Is there a medical director qualified in geriatric medicine?

   B.  Are patients allowed to have private doctors?

   C.  If there are staff physicians, what are their qualifications?
       1.  Is a doctor available twenty-four hours a day?
       2.  How often is each patient seen by a doctor?

   D.  Does each patient get a complete physical examination before or
       upon admission?

   E.  Does the home have a hospital affiliation or a transfer agreement
       with a hospital?

   F.  Does each patient have an individual treatment plan?

   G.  Is a psychiatrist available?

   H.  Is provision made for dental, eye, and foot care as well as other
       specialized services?

   I.  Are there adequate medical records?

   X.  Nursing Services

   A.  Is the nursing director fully qualified?

   B.  Is there a registered nurse on duty at all times?

   C.  Are licensed practical nurses graduates of approved schools?

   D.  Is there adequate nursing staff for the number of patients?

   E.  Is there an in-service training program for nurse's aides and
       orderlies?

  XI.  Rehabilitation Services

   A.  Is there a registered physiotherapist on staff or as a consultant?
       1.  Good equipment?
       2.  How often are patients scheduled?

   B.  Is there a registered occupational therapist on staff?
       1.  Is functional therapy prescribed in addition to diversionary
           activities?

   C.  Is a speech therapist available for post-stroke patients?

   D.  Is the staff trained in reality orientation, re-motivation, and
       bladder training for the mentally impaired?

 XII.  Group Activities

   A.  Is the activities director professionally trained?

   B.  Are a variety of programs offered?
       1.  Ask to see a calendar of activities.

   C.  Are there trips to theaters, concerts, museums for those who can
       go out?

   D.  Are wheelchair patients transported to group activities?

   E.  Is there a library for patients?

   F.  Is there an opportunity to take adult education courses or
       participate in discussion groups?


XIII.  Social Services

   A.  Is a professional social worker involved in admission procedures?
       1.  Are both the applicant and family interviewed?
       2.  Are alternatives to institutionalization explored?

   B.  Is a professional, trained social worker available to discuss
       personal problems and help with adjustment of patient and family?

   C.  Are social and psychological needs of patients included in
       treatment plans?

   D.  Is a professional, trained social worker available to the staff
       for consultation
       1.  On social and psychological problems of patients?
       2.  On roommate choices and tablemates?

 XIV.  Religious Observances

   A.  Is there a chapel on the grounds?

   B.  Are religious services held regularly for those who wish to
       attend?

   C.  If the home is run under sectarian auspices, are clergy of other
       faiths permitted to see patients when requested?


  XV.  Citizen Participation

   A.  Is the Patient Bill of Rights prominently displayed and
       understood?

   B.  Is there a resident council?
       1.  How often does it meet?
       2.  Does it have access to the administrator and department heads?
   C.  Is there a family organization?
       1.  How often does it meet?
       2.  Does it have access to the administrator and department heads?

   D.  Do the patients vote in local, state, and federal elections?
       1.  Are they taken to the polls?
       2.  Do they apply for absentee ballots?

 XVI.  Financial Questions

   A.  Basic Costs
       1.  Are itemized bills available?
       2.  Are there any extra charges?

   B.  Availability of Medicare and Medicaid Reimbursement
       1.  Is a staff member available to assist in making application
           for these funds?
       2.  Is assistance available for questions for veterans' pensions?
           Union benefits?

   C.  What provision is made for patients' spending money.


Source: Nursing Home Care for the Elderly: Understanding the Nursing Home
Environment. T2215. Althea Wright and Joe Weber, Oklahoma State
University Extension Service.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                               
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 
 
                            The Ledges Apartments 
                                  Sikes Hill
                           North Augusta, SC  29841
                                (803) 279-1776
                                 Aiken County

Contact Person:...............................Barbara Foos
Proportion of residents from other states:....Information unavailable
Residential capacity..........................84
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 84
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Dead bolt locks, entrance/exit locked  
                                       at night, manager resides on side of
                                       facility
Safety features of unit............... Smoke alarm, 2 pull emerg. alarms,
                                       safety bars in tub
Handicapped accommodations............ 4 units w/ lowered shelves, 4 units 
                                       with roll-in showers, all 8 units w/low
                                       light switches and kitchen sink
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Shared as needed
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident meetings, newsletter

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Able to care for self,, over 62 or 
                                       handicapped, income per HUD
                                       requirements - Section 8
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Per HUD regulations
Refund method outlined in contract.... Information unavailable
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... In accordance w/ HUD reg. for Sec. 8
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Resident may cancel lease  w/ 30 day 
                                       notice
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Temporary absences are allowed


/$
                              Croft House, Inc. 
                            356 York Street, N.E.
                               Aiken, SC  29801
                                (803) 648-0771
                                 Aiken County

Contact Person:...............................Elaine Jackson, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....50%
Residential capacity..........................64
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 60 apartments
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. 24 hr security
Safety features of unit............... 2 emergency cords, handrails, 
                                       smoke alarms
Handicapped accommodations............ 8 apartments for handicapped persons
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Resident meeting or notices
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Monthly newsletters, posting notices

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Age, health status
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Income
Refund method outlined in contract.... No refund w/o 30 day notice
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Rent based on income
Residents financial responsibility 
should he/she be transferred to a 
nursing facility...................... Family's decision 
Length of time living unit will be 
maintained in the event of 
temporary nursing home placement...... 3 months 

                                Kalmia Landing 
                                125 Gregg Ave.
                               Aiken, SC  29801
                                (803) 649-5391
                                 Aiken County

Contact Person:...............................Carol Poore
Proportion of residents from other states:....50%
Residential capacity..........................233 upon completion
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 45
Description of Units.................. Condos, patio homes, villas (one level)
Nursing home ......................... NO (Contractual agreement Aiken Nursing
                                       Home)
Units purchased or rented............. Purchased
Security provisions .................. 24 hr secured entrance, electronic gate
                                       same for condo
Safety features of unit............... 24hr life line system, 3 ft. wide 
                                       doorways, buddy system with neighbors
Handicapped accommodations............ No steps
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Upon request
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Homeowner's Association (Corporation 
                                       serves on committee), Resident Advisory
                                       Board

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES, when 90% developed
Eligibility requirements.............. 50+
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. In protective covenant
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... YES
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Lien against
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay both charges
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Owner's/family's discretion
 
                              Croft House, Inc. 
                            356 York Street, N.E.
                               Aiken, SC  29801
                                (803) 648-0771
                                 Aiken County

Contact Person:...............................Elaine Jackson, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....50%
Residential capacity..........................64
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 60 apartments
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. 24 hr security
Safety features of unit............... 2 emergency cords, handrails, 
                                       smoke alarms
Handicapped accommodations............ 8 apartments for handicapped persons
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Resident meeting or notices
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Monthly newsletters, posting notices

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Age, health status
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Income
Refund method outlined in contract.... No refund w/o 30 day notice
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Rent based on income
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Family's decision
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary 
nursing home placement................ 3 months 
                                Kalmia Landing 
                                125 Gregg Ave.
                               Aiken, SC  29801
                                (803) 649-5391
                                 Aiken County

Contact Person:...............................Carol Poore
Proportion of residents from other states:....50%
Residential capacity..........................233 upon completion
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 45
Description of Units.................. Condos, patio homes, villas (one level)
Nursing home ......................... NO (Contractual agreement Aiken Nursing
                                       Home)
Units purchased or rented............. Purchased
Security provisions .................. 24 hr secured entrance, electronic gate
                                       same for condo
Safety features of unit............... 24hr life line system, 3 ft. wide 
                                       doorways, buddy system with neighbors
Handicapped accommodations............ No steps
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Upon request
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Homeowner's Association (Corporation 
                                       serves on committee), Resident Advisory
                                       Board

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES, when 90% developed
Eligibility requirements.............. 50+
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. In protective covenant
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... YES
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Lien against
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay both charges
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Owner's/family's discretion









INFORMATION PROVIDED BY THE JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING, 
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN. 
 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GENERAL INFORMATION                              
-DOC-
                              GENERAL INFORMATION
Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life and Human Development Specialist

You know more about yourself or about your elderly relative than anyone
else.  By carefully looking into available care and matching up services
with your or your elderly relative's needs, you will be able to select
the best situation.  You will find it well worth your time to choose
carefully, because if you or an elderly family member are/is receiving
happy and secure care, the rest of the family will find their lives
enriched.

There are at least five different kinds of care you might choose:

     1) Retirement center or independent living setting
     2) Community residential care
     3) Intermediate care
     4) Skilled care
     5) An individual sitter or nurse in your home
As you make out a list of care possibilities keep these three thoughts in
mind. You will need to find care that is affordable.  Cost and quality do
not necessarily go hand in hand.  The most expensive may not suit your
situation the best.  On the other hand, it may be better to spend a few more 
dollars to obtain additional services.  Remember the hidden cost of trans-
portation for family members to visit in another city for example.

A second factor to consider is reliability.  Will you be able to trust the
sitter or the staff with your loved one's well-being?

The third factor is consistency.  It is important for the elderly person's
sense of security to have at least one consistent caregiver, someone that you
or your elderly family member can count on.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AIKEN - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                 
-DOC-
                 AIKEN - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Aiken Cty. Comm. on ADA/-Halfway House  
Mailing Address : 12l York St., S. E.      
                : Aiken, SC  29801
       Location : 121 York St., S. E.           
                : Aiken, SC  29801
          Phone : 648-7990
          Owner : Aiken Cty. Comm. on ADA            
  Administrator : Lawrence P. Wiseburn     
 License Number : 106
    No. of Beds :  15











       Facility : Aldrich's Community Care Home           
Mailing Address : 895 Old Aiken Rd.        
                : N. Augusta, SC       
       Location : 895 Old Aiken Rd.             
                : N. Augusta, SC  29841
          Phone : 279-3855
          Owner : Mary Aldrich                       
  Administrator : Mary Aldrich             
 License Number : 128
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : Cason's Residential Care Facility       
Mailing Address : 718 Pinelog Rd.          
                : N. Augusta, SC       
       Location : 718 Pinelog Road              
                : N. Augusta, SC  29841
          Phone : 593-6003
          Owner : Harry W. Cason                     
  Administrator : Harry W. Cason           
 License Number : 351
    No. of Beds :   3











       Facility : Chitty's Residential Care #1            
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 453           
                : Monetta, SC       
       Location : Rt. 2, Box 453                
                : Monetta, SC  29105
          Phone : 685-7014
          Owner : Ronald E. Chitty                   
  Administrator : Ronald E. Chitty         
 License Number : 405
    No. of Beds :  22











       Facility : Chitty's Residential Care #2            
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box l05B          
                : Monetta, SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 105B               
                : Monetta, SC  29105
          Phone : 685-7014
          Owner : Chitty's Res. Rehab. Ctr., Inc.    
  Administrator : Ronald E. Chitty         
 License Number : 437
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Chitty's Residential Care #3            
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box l05B          
                : Monetta, SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 105B               
                : Monetta, SC  29105
          Phone : 685-7014
          Owner : Chitty's Res. Rehab. Ctr., Inc.    
  Administrator : Ronald E. Chitty         
 License Number : 438
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Coleman's Residential Care              
Mailing Address : 103 N. Jewel St.         
                : New Ellenton, SC       
       Location : 103 N. Jewel Street           
                : New Ellenton, SC  29809
          Phone : 652-2973
          Owner : Barbara Coleman                    
  Administrator : Barbara Coleman          
 License Number : 182
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Gregory's Community Care Home #1        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 749            
                : N. Augusta, SC  29822
       Location : 303 Second Ave.               
                : N. Augusta, SC  29841
          Phone : 593-5580
          Owner : Joyce C. Gregory                   
  Administrator : Joyce C. Gregory         
 License Number : 291
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Gregory's Community Care Home #2        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 749            
                : Clearwater, SC  29822
       Location : #2 Emerald Dr.                
                : Clearwater, SC  29822
          Phone : 593-5936
          Owner : Joyce C. Gregory                   
  Administrator : Joyce C. Gregory         
 License Number : 427
    No. of Beds :  30











       Facility : Hitt's Community Care                   
Mailing Address : 121 N. Chestfld          
                : Aiken, SC       
       Location : 121 N. Chesterfield           
                : Aiken, SC  29801
          Phone : 649-2998
          Owner : Ola R. Hitt                        
  Administrator : Ola R. Hitt              
 License Number : 415
    No. of Beds :  20











       Facility : McCarthy's Community Care Home (VET)    
Mailing Address : 209 Irene St.            
                : N. Augusta, SC       
       Location : 209 Irene St.                 
                : N. Augusta, SC  29841
          Phone : 593-4996
          Owner : J. W. McCarthy                     
  Administrator : J. W. McCarthy           
 License Number : 134
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : McDuffie Community Care Home            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 235            
                : New Ellenton, SC  29802
       Location : Rt. l, Box 217 B              
                : New Ellenton, SC  29809
          Phone : 652-7781
          Owner : Mary McCray                        
  Administrator : Mary M. Craig            
 License Number : 39 
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : Mole Ambulatory Care                    
Mailing Address : 934 Atomic Rd.           
                : N. Augusta, SC       
       Location : 934 Atomic Rd.                
                : N. Augusta, SC  29841
          Phone : 278-4251
          Owner : Leonard Mole                       
  Administrator : Leonard Mole             
 License Number : 132
    No. of Beds :  27











       Facility : Parker's Community Care Home            
Mailing Address : 810 Pine View Dr.        
                : New Ellenton, SC       
       Location : 810 Pine View Dr.             
                : New Ellenton, SC  29809
          Phone : 652-7290
          Owner : Drucilla Parker                    
  Administrator : Drucilla Parker          
 License Number : 311
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : R & R Community Care Home               
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 105-B         
                : Monetta, SC       
       Location : Academy St.                   
                : Monetta, SC  29105
          Phone : 685-5425
          Owner : Ruben & Ruth Chitty                
  Administrator : Ruben D. Chitty          
 License Number : 400
    No. of Beds :   3











       Facility : Ranson Community Care Home              
Mailing Address : 2207 Whiskey Rd.         
                : Aiken, SC       
       Location : 2207 Whiskey Rd.              
                : Aiken, SC  29801
          Phone : 649-6504
          Owner : Clifford & Alice J. Ranson         
  Administrator : Clifford Ranson          
 License Number : 191
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Renew's Community Care Home (VET)       
Mailing Address : 40 Canal St.             
                : Graniteville, SC       
       Location : 40 Canal St.                  
                : Graniteville, SC  29829
          Phone : 663-3320
          Owner : Margie Renew                       
  Administrator : Margie Renew             
 License Number : 172
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Tanksley's Community Care Home          
Mailing Address : 601 Burnside Ave.        
                : N. Augusta, SC       
       Location : 601 Burnside Ave.             
                : N. Augusta, SC  29841
          Phone : 279-1348
          Owner : Ida Mae Tanksley                   
  Administrator : Ida Mae Tanksley         
 License Number : 147
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Village Inn Community Care Home         
Mailing Address : 112 Powell               
                : Graniteville, SC       
       Location : 112 Powell St.                
                : Graniteville, SC  29829
          Phone : 663-9495
          Owner : Michele D. Adams                   
  Administrator : Michele D. Adams         
 License Number : 396
    No. of Beds :  10







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TYPES OF CARE FOR ELDERLY IN SOUTH CAROLINA                  
-DOC-
                  TYPES OF CARE FOR ELDERLY IN SOUTH CAROLINA
Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life and Human Development Specialist

In South Carolina the Department of Health and Environmental Control
regulates three types of care facilities for the elderly:  Community
Residential Care Facilities, Intermediate Care Facilities, and Skilled
Nursing Care Facilities.

Community Residential Care Facilities - A CRCF offers room and board and
provides a degree of personal assistance for a period of time in excess
of 24 consecutive hours for two or more persons, unrelated to the
operator.  Personal assistance means help with bathing, cooking, eating,
cleaning house, or remembering to take medication.  In this facility
people may live in the same building, or they may have separate
apartments.  The facility may or may not have licensed nursing staff, but
must have someone on duty 24 hours per day.

Intermediate Care Facilities - Health services provided by an ICF include
1) physician supervision of each patient including a minimum of one
physician visit to each patient every sixty days, 2) a registered or
licensed nurse employed seven days per week and on duty during the day
shift, 3) provisions for carrying out of physicians' orders for patient
treatments and medications by licensed nursing personnel, 4) provision
for therapeutic diets as prescribed by the physician and supervised by a 
registered dietician, 5) provision for pharmaceutical services, activities 
for patients and social services.

Skilled Nursing Care - Health services provided by an SNF require 1) a South
Carolina licensed physician as supervisor of the care and treatment of each
patient; 2) a physician visit to each patient at least every 30 days; 3) at
least one licensed nurse on duty per nursing station 24 hours per day, seven
days per week; 4) a director of nursing who is a registered nurse and a
supervisory nurse who is a registered nurse; 5) provision for therapeutic
diets; 6) provision for pharmacy services, social service, patient activities
and other services as ordered by a physician.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AIKEN - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                 
-DOC-
                 AIKEN - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Anna Maria ICF of New Ellenton          
Mailing Address : 412 Main St.                
                : New Ellenton, SC  29809
       Location : 412 Main St.                  
                : New Ellenton, SC  29809
          Phone : 652-2230
          Owner : Anna Maria Medical Nursing Home, Inc.   
  Administrator : Annette D. Hobbs         
 License Number : ICF167
   Beds - Total :   26
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   26

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
REGULATIONS FOR CARE OF FOR THE ELDERLY IN SC                 
-DOC-
                 REGULATIONS FOR CARE OF FOR THE ELDERLY IN SC
Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

Licenses for operating Community Residential Care Facilities, Immediate Care
Facilities, and Skilled Nursing Care Facilities are issued from the South
Carolina Department of Environmental Control.  Licenses are renewed upon
meeting the requirements of an annual inspection.  The license should be posted
in a conspicuous place in the lobby or waiting room.  The license shall be
effective for a 12-month period following the date it is issued and shall
expire the year following such date; however, a facility that has not been
inspected during that year may continue to operate under its existing license
until an inspection is made.  Some facilities are exempt from licensing.  These
include:

    1) Any facility which is regularly licensed by the South Carolina
       Department of Mental Health Section 44-17-10 to 44-17-150 of the
       South Carolina Code of Laws of 1976.

    2) Privately owned educational facilities maintaining infirmiries
       for the exclusive use of their student bodies as defined in Section 44-
       7-140 of the South Carolina Code of Laws of 1976.
    3) Facilities providing domiciliary care and personal care services
       such as room, board, laundry and personal services incidental to the
       activities of daily living which do not require the technical skill,
       services or supervision of a licensed nurse.

       Remember, facilities subject to regulation cannot begin to operate until
       they are licensed by the Department of Health and Environmental Control.

       In addition, new facilities must have approval of local officials
       for zoning, sanitation, and building codes.  Plans are submitted to DHEC
       for approval before building may start.

       For information about licensing write or call the Department of
       Environmental Control at:

       Division of Health Licensing and Certification
       J. Marion Sims Bldg.
       2600 Bull Street
       Columbia, SC  29201
       Phone:  734-4530

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AIKEN - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                     
-DOC-
                     AIKEN - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Aiken Nursing Home                      
Mailing Address : 123 Dupont Dr.              
                : Aiken, SC  29801
       Location : 123 Dupont Drive              
                : Aiken, SC  29801
          Phone : 648-0434
          Owner : Beverly Enterprises - S. C., Inc.       
  Administrator : George H. Butler         
 License Number : NCF367
   Beds - Total :   86
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   86
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Anne Maria Med. Care Nursing Home Inc.  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 6277              
                : N. Augusta, SC  29841
       Location : Talisman Dr.                  
                : N. Augusta, SC  29840
          Phone : 278-2170
          Owner : Anne Maria Medical Care Nursing Home Inc
  Administrator : Marianne Luckey          
 License Number : NCF238
   Beds - Total :  120
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  120
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Mattie Chaffee Hall Health Care Center  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 475               
                : Aiken, SC  29801
       Location : 830 Laurens St.               
                : Aiken, SC  29801
          Phone : 649-6264
          Owner : Aiken County Council                    
  Administrator : Vickie L. Major          
 License Number : NCF408
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :   88

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ADJUSTING TO A MOVE                               
-DOC-
                              ADJUSTING TO A MOVE 
Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life and Human Development Specialist 
 
Moving can be traumatic for anyone, but is immensely difficult for 
someone who has decades-worth of belongings and special memories attached 
to each one. 
Older persons seem to remain healthier in mind and body when they can 
continue living in familiar surroundings.  If you or the older person you 
are concerned about prefer not to move and arrangements can be made to 
avoid dislocation, consider that alternative.  It is the older person's 
choice. 
 
If moving is required, it should be directed by the person moving as much 
as possible.  The person moving may make a list of items needed for the 
new residence, a list of those items to be put into storage, and a list 
of those to be sold a given away.  Each of us wants to know what happened 
to our things. 
 
It may be more comfortable for the older person if the move to the new 
residence can occur before the actual moving, storage, sale, or donation 
takes place.  Additional items may be needed at the new residence, so 
time to adjust to new surroundings before final decisions are made can be 
helpful.  Be sure some familiar things are taken to the new place.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                              
-DOC-
                              LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
     Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed adult day care facilities in this county.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VISITING ELDERLY CARE FACILITIES                       
-DOC-
                       VISITING ELDERLY CARE FACILITIES
Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life and Human Development Specialist

Your family physician is an excellent advisor about the type of care that
is most appropriate for you or your loved one.  Since ICF's and SNF's
require a physician referral, you may save yourself some time by
consulting him/her first.

You may also want to consider facilities that provide a continuum of
care, that is several levels of care including independent living,
assisted care and/or nursing care all on the same property.  This
continuum allows for changes in the resident's health status while
maintaining consistency of familiar surroundings, staff, and policies. 
Life care facilities usually offer several levels of care with a
"guarantee" that the resident will be cared for as their health begins to
deteriorate.  With an infirmary on the site, a person who can no longer
drive can walk over to visit a spouse who is in the infirmary.

It is a good idea to visit several types of care facilities and after you
have decided the type, visit several facilities of that type.  A list of
the places of elderly living in each county in South Carolina may be accessed 
from the previous menu.  Before you visit the facilities, read and become
familiar with the items on the checksheet also available from the previous 
menu.  Phone the facilities and set up appointments to visit.

Sometimes it will be more convenient to visit without the elderly person. 
Should you take the elderly person along, however, note if and how the
personnel greets him/her.  Note also how the elderly person likes the
place.  If you are looking for a place for yourself, pay attention to
your feelings about the place.

You must recognize that the personnel at the facility will be busy and
may not have much time to talk.  You might ask just to sit and watch what
happens at the facility.  You wouldn't want a facility where the
personnel ignored the residents and devoted full attention to a guest. 
Be sure to arrange to eat a meal if meals are served.  Make a list of
questions to ask later when the staff is not so busy.  You may even
arrange to call back later with questions, after you have had time to
think.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALLENDALE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               ALLENDALE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Oakhurst Community Care #2              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 327            
                : Allendale, SC  29810
       Location : 88 Belle St.                  
                : Allendale, SC  29810
          Phone : 584-4090
          Owner : Woodrow Daniels, Sr.               
  Administrator : Woodrow Daniels, Jr.     
 License Number : 423
    No. of Beds :  20







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SELECTING A SITTER FOR AN OLDER PERSON                    
-DOC-
                    SELECTING A SITTER FOR AN OLDER PERSON
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

The best arrangement for the older person you are concerned about may be to
hire a sitter to come to the older person's home.  We know that most elderly
people are more content in familiar surroundings.

A sitter may be augmented by a public or private home health service that
employs licensed nurses to provide in-home medical care from mediation
administration to intravenous drug therapy.  In South Carolina the local
departments of social services have registered and licensed nurses, nurses'
aides, homemakers, physical therapists and social workers.  For a list of
county Departments of Social Service, see previous menu.

You may locate the right person by asking your friends, neighbors, pastor, and
other people you have contact with.  Usually, however when the time comes to
hire a sitter there isn't much time to ask around.  One family ran an ad in the
local paper as follows: "Needed - household manager to do housework, prepare
meals, and care for a young at heart elderly person.  Interviewing Saturday."
This family got 25 calls of inquiry and selected 8 people to interview.

If you do interview, have a list of questions ready to ask each person with
whom you talk.  Have a sheet of questions for each applicant.  Record the
answers as soon as you get them.  You may think you can remember, but often you
can't.

Some possible questions are:

    Do you smoke?
    Have you cared for an older person or done house work for someone else     
      before?
    Do you drive?
    Do you own a car?
    Could you stay longer if I have to work late sometimes?
    Give me a sample menu that you might prepare for an older person?

Ask the older person to help you think of other questions to ask if appropriate
to do so.  In fact, let the older person help with the interview.  Notice
whether or not the applicant directs some of his/her remarks to the older
person.  Let the older person help decide who to hire on a trial basis.  It is
very important that the elderly person enjoy the sitter.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SELECTION OF FRESH CUCUMBERS                         
-DOC-
                         SELECTION OF FRESH CUCUMBERS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Quantity:  An average of 14 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an   
           average of 9 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.  A bushel 
           weighs 48 pounds and yields 16 to 24 quarts--an average of 2 pounds 
           per quart.

Quality:   Select firm cucumbers of the appropriate size: about 1-1/2 inches   
           for gherkins and 4 inches for dills.  Use odd-shaped and more mature 
           cucumbers for relishes and bread-and-butter style pickles. 

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUITABLE CONTAINERS, COVERS, AND WEIGHTS FOR FERMENTING FOOD         
-DOC-
         SUITABLE CONTAINERS, COVERS, AND WEIGHTS FOR FERMENTING FOOD
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

A 1-gallon container is needed for each 5 pounds of fresh vegetables. 
Therefore, a 5-gallon stone crock is of ideal size for fermenting about 25
pounds of fresh cabbage or cucumbers.  Food-grade plastic and glass containers
are excellent substitutes for stone crocks.  Other 1- to 3- gallon non-food-
grade plastic containers may be used if lined inside with a clean food-grade
plastic bag.  Fermenting sauerkraut in quart and half-gallon Mason jars is an
acceptable practice, but may result in more spoilage losses.

CAUTION:  BE CERTAIN THAT FOODS CONTACT ONLY FOOD-GRADE PLASTICS.  Do not use  
          garbage bags or trash liners.  

Cabbage and cucumbers must be kept 1 to 2 inches under brine while fermenting. 
After adding prepared vegetables and brine, insert a suitably sized dinner
plate or glass pie plate inside the fermentation container.  The plate must be
slightly smaller than the container opening, yet large enough to cover most of
the shredded cabbage or cucumbers.  To keep the plate under the brine, place on
it 2 to 3 sealed quart jars filled with water.  Covering the container opening
with a clean, heavy bath towel helps to prevent contamination from insects and
molds while the vegetables are fermenting.  Fine quality fermented vegetables
are also obtained when the plate is weighted down with a very large clean,
plastic bag filled with 3 quarts of water containing 4 1/2 tablespoons of salt.
Be sure to seal the plastic bag.  Freezer bags sold for packaging turkeys are
suitable for use with 5-gallon containers.

The fermentation container, plate, and jars must be washed in hot sudsy water,
and rinsed well with very hot water before use.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALLENDALE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               ALLENDALE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Oakhurst Community Care #2              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 327            
                : Allendale, SC  29810
       Location : 88 Belle St.                  
                : Allendale, SC  29810
          Phone : 584-4090
          Owner : Woodrow Daniels, Sr.               
  Administrator : Woodrow Daniels, Jr.     
 License Number : 423
    No. of Beds :  20







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                                Anderson Place
                                 P.O. Box 123
                              Anderson, SC  29622
                                (803) 231-6264
                                Anderson County

Contact Person:...............................Lesley Parks, Exec. Dir.
Proportion of residents from other states:....25%
Residential capacity..........................100
                               SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 70
Description of Units.................. Condominiums
Nursing home ......................... YES
Units purchased or rented............. Life leased
Security provisions .................. 24hr security, one entrance/exit
Safety features of unit............... No steps, fenced areas, smoke alarms,
                                       grab bars, emergency call
Handicapped accommodations............ Doors access wheelchairs 2 units with
                                       ramps
Visitor tour available................ YES, by appointment
Financial soundness information shared:  Information unavailable
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents'Council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 60 yrs of age or older, income,
                                       no communicable disease
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Board of Directors
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Vacate unit
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Information unavailable
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Information unavailable








INFORMATION PROVIDED BY THE JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                                Anderson Place
                                 P.O. Box 123
                              Anderson, SC  29622
                                (803) 231-6264
                                Anderson County

Contact Person:...............................Lesley Parks, Exec. Dir.
Proportion of residents from other states:....25%
Residential capacity..........................100
                               SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 70
Description of Units.................. Condominiums
Nursing home ......................... YES
Units purchased or rented............. Life leased
Security provisions .................. 24hr security, one entrance/exit
Safety features of unit............... No steps, fenced areas, smoke alarms,
                                       grab bars, emergency call
Handicapped accommodations............ Doors access wheelchairs 2 units with
                                       ramps
Visitor tour available................ YES, by appointment
Financial soundness information shared:  Information unavailable
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents'Council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 60 yrs of age or older, income,
                                       no communicable disease
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Board of Directors
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Vacate unit
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Information unavailable
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Information unavailable








INFORMATION PROVIDED BY THE JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ANDERSON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               ANDERSON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Alexander's Residential Care Facility   
Mailing Address : 1302 S. McDuffie         
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 1302 S. McDuffie St.          
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 225-6901
          Owner : Robbie Alexander                   
  Administrator : Robbie Alexander         
 License Number : 233
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Connie's Residential Care               
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3744           
                : Anderson, SC  29621
       Location : 303 Hampton Street            
                : Anderson, SC  29621
          Phone : 226-3797
          Owner : Connie S. McCurry                  
  Administrator : Connie S. McCurry        
 License Number : 276
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Fitzgerald's Residential Care Fac. #2   
Mailing Address : 813 S. McDuffie          
                : Andrsn, SC       
       Location : 813 S. McDuffie St.           
                : Andrsn, SC  29621
          Phone : 226-0028
          Owner : Doris Fitzgerald                   
  Administrator : Doris Fitzgerald         
 License Number : 338
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Fitzgerald's Residential Care Facility  
Mailing Address : 8l7 S. McDuffie          
                : Andrsn, SC       
       Location : 817 S. McDuffie St.           
                : Andrsn, SC  29621
          Phone : 226-8852
          Owner : Doris Fitzgerald                   
  Administrator : Doris Fitzgerald         
 License Number : 93 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Kathleen's Community Care Home          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3408           
                : Anderson, SC  29621
       Location : 1115 East River St.           
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 231-7024
          Owner : Kathleen M. Sanders                
  Administrator : Kathleen Sanders         
 License Number : 305
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Pepper's Community Home                 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3378           
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 1111 White St.                
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 225-9921
          Owner : Deborah Jean Pepper                
  Administrator : Deborah J. Pepper        
 License Number : 209
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Sanders Community Care Home #2          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3408           
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 1105 East River St.           
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 231-7024
          Owner : Kathleen M. Sanders                
  Administrator : Kathleen Sanders         
 License Number : 306
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Sanders Community Care Home #3          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3408           
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 111 E. River St.              
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 231-7024
          Owner : Kathleen M. Sanders                
  Administrator : Kathleen Sanders         
 License Number : 307
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Sanders Residential Care Home           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3408           
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 428 Williamston Rd.           
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 231-7024
          Owner : Kathleen M. Sanders                
  Administrator : Kathleen M. Sanders      
 License Number : 15 
    No. of Beds :  23











       Facility : Senior Citizens Boarding Home           
Mailing Address : 710 Delia St.            
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 710 Delia St.                 
                : Anderson, SC  29621
          Phone : 226-8630
          Owner : Beatrice Wideman                   
  Administrator : Beatrice Wideman         
 License Number : 303
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Starlite Residential Home #1            
Mailing Address : 211 E. Franklin          
                : Anderson, SC  29624
       Location : 211 E. Franklin St.           
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 224-0922
          Owner : Omah D. Franks & Ken D. Nichols    
  Administrator : Omah D. Franks           
 License Number : 196
    No. of Beds :  15











       Facility : Starlite Residential Home #2            
Mailing Address : 701 Elizabeth            
                : Anderson, SC  29624
       Location : 701 Elizabeth St.             
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 224-1207
          Owner : Omah D. Franks & Kenneth D. Nichols
  Administrator : Omah D. Franks           
 License Number : 197
    No. of Beds :  13











       Facility : Wideman's Community Care Center         
Mailing Address : 2206 Bellhaven           
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 2206 Bellhaven Rd.            
                : Anderson, SC  29621
          Phone : 225-0930
          Owner : Beatrice Wideman                   
  Administrator : Beatrice Wideman         
 License Number : 319
    No. of Beds :   7







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ANDERSON - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                ANDERSON - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Golden Acres Intermediate Care Facility 
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 505                
                : Iva, SC  29655
       Location : Hampton Street                
                : Iva, SC  29655
          Phone : 348-7433
          Owner : Latham Inc.                             
  Administrator : Elizabeth L. Tucker      
 License Number : ICF14 
   Beds - Total :   26
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   26

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ANDERSON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    ANDERSON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Anderson Health Care Center             
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 989                
                : Anderson, SC  29622
       Location : 1501 E. Greenville Street     
                : Anderson, SC  29622
          Phone : 226-8356
          Owner : National Health Care                    
  Administrator : Betty Finley             
 License Number : NCF332
   Beds - Total :  202
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  146
     Beds - Icf :   56




{_
       Facility : Ellenburg Nursing Center, Inc.          
Mailing Address : 611 E. Hampton St.          
                : Anderson, SC  29624
       Location : 611 E. Hampton St.            
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 226-5054
          Owner : Ellenburg Nursing Center, Inc.          
  Administrator : M.L. Ellenburg           
 License Number : NCF231
   Beds - Total :  176
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :   88





       Facility : Latham Nursing Home                     
Mailing Address : 208 James St.               
                : Anderson, SC  29621
       Location : 208 James St.                 
                : Anderson, SC  29621
          Phone : 226-3427
          Owner : Latham Inc.                             
  Administrator : Loneta L. Dunn           
 License Number : NCF192
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   44
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ANDERSON - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                       
-DOC-
                       ANDERSON - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Anderson County Adult Day Care Center             
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 103                  
                : Anderson, SC  29622
       Location : 4200 Liberty Hwy.             
                : Anderson, SC  29621
          Phone : 225-6525
          Owner : Anderson-Oconee Council on Aging   
  Administrator : Sandra F. Norris         
 License Number : ADC2  
   Participants :  20








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ANDERSON - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                ANDERSON - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Anderson Community Residence            
Mailing Address : 1705 Holly St.              
                : Anderson, SC  29621
       Location : 1705 Holly Street             
                : Anderson, SC  29621
          Phone : 225-9941
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Vicki Neely Thompson     
 License Number : M1530 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MAKING JELLY WITHOUT ADDED PECTIN                      
-DOC-
                      MAKING JELLY WITHOUT ADDED PECTIN
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Use only firm fruits naturally high in pectin.  Select a mixture of about 3/4
ripe and 1/4 underripe fruit.  Do not use commercially canned or frozen fruit
juices.  Their pectin content is too low.  Wash all fruits thoroughly before
cooking.  Crush soft fruits or berries; cut firmer fruits into small pieces. 
Using the peels and cores adds pectin to the juice during cooking.  Add water
to fruits that require it, as listed in the table of ingredients below.  Put
fruit and water in large saucepan and bring to a boil.  Then simmer according
to the times in table which follows until fruit is soft, while stirring to
prevent scorching.  One pound of fruit should yield at least 1 cup of clear
juice.








                     EXTRACTING JUICES AND MAKING JELLY

                   To Extract Juice           Ingredients            Yield
                                           Added to Each Cup       from 4 cups
                                           of Strained Juice         Juice
               _______________________     _________________       ___________
              Cups of water    Minutes     Sugar    Lemon Juice    (in half-
              to be added*    to simmer   (cups)    (teaspoons)      pints)
==============================================================================

Apples            1           20 to 25      3/4      1 1/2 (opt)     4 to 5

Blackberries  None or 1/4      5 to 10    3/4 to 1     None          7 to 8

Crabapples        1           20 to 25       1         None          4 to 5

Grapes        None or 1/4      5 to 10    3/4 to 1     None          8 to 9

Plums            1/2          15 to 20      3/4        None          8 to 9
______________________________________________________________________________ 
* per pound of fruit
When fruit is tender, strain through a colander, then strain through a double
layer of cheesecloth or jelly bag.  Allow juice to drip through, using a stand
or colander to hold the bag.  Pressing or squeezing the bag or cloth will cause
cloudy jelly.

Using no more than 6 to 8 cups of extracted fruit juice at a time, measure
fruit juice, sugar, and lemon juice according to the ingredients in the table
above and heat to boiling.  Stir until the sugar is dissolved.  Boil over high
heat to the jellying point.  To test jelly for doneness, use one of the
following methods:

TEMPERATURE TEST--Use a jelly or candy thermometer and boil until mixture
reaches the following temperatures at altitudes of:
_____________________________________________________________________________
           Sea    1000    2000    3000    4000    5000    6000    7000    8000 
           Level   ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.
==============================================================================
Temperature 220*  218*    216*    214*    212*    211*    209*    207*    205*
______________________________________________________________________________
*Degrees Fahrenheit

SHEET OR SPOON TEST--Dip a cool metal spoon into the boiling jelly mixture. 
Raise the spoon about 12 inches above the pan (out of steam).  Turn the spoon
so the liquid runs off the side.  The jelly is done when the syrup forms two
drops that flow together and sheet or hang off the edge of the spoon.

Once the jelly tests done, remove from heat and quickly skim off foam.  Fill
sterile jars with jelly.  To sterilize empty jars, put them right side up on
the rack in a boiling-water canner.  Fill the canner and jars with hot (not
boiling) water to 1 inch above the tops of the jars.  Boil 10 minutes.  At
higher elevations, boil 1 additional minute for each additional 1000 ft.
elevation.  Remove and drain hot sterilized jars one at a time.  Save the hot
water for processing filled jars.  Using a measuring cup or ladle, pour the
jelly through a wide-mouthed funnel, leaving 1/4-inch headspace.  Adjust lids
and process.







///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      JELLY WITHOUT ADDED PECTIN              /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                 /
/                                      Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style                ______________________________________________________/ 
/  of Pack  Jar size     0-1000 ft.         1001-5000 ft.        5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________ / 
/  Hot     Half-Pints      5 min.              10 min.             15 min.    /
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                 Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MAKING JAM WITHOUT ADDED PECTIN                        
-DOC-
                        MAKING JAM WITHOUT ADDED PECTIN
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Wash and rinse all fruits thoroughly before cooking.  Do not soak.  For best
flavor, use fully ripe fruit.  Remove stems, skins, and pits from fruit; cut
into pieces and crush.  For berries, remove stems and blossoms and crush. 
Seedy berries may be put through a sieve or food mill.  Measure crushed fruit
into large saucepan using the ingredient quantities specified in the table
which follows.
                             INGREDIENT QUANTITIES
                 Cups Crushed       Cups      Tablespoon         Yield 
Fruit               Fruit           Sugar     Lemon Juice     (half-pints)
=============================================================================
Apricots          4 to 4 1/2          4            2             5 to 6

Berries*               4              4            0             3 to 4

Peaches           5 1/2 to 6       4 to 5          2             6 to 7
_____________________________________________________________________________
*Includes blackberries, boysenberries, dewberries, gooseberries, loganberries, 
          raspberries, and strawberries.
Add sugar and bring to a boil while stirring rapidly and constantly.  Continue
to boil until the mixture thickens.  Use one of the following tests to
determine when jams and jellies are ready to fill.  Remember to allow for
thickening during cooling.

TEMPERATURE TEST--Use a jelly or candy thermometer and boil until mixture
reaches the following temperatures at altitudes of:
_____________________________________________________________________________
           Sea    1000    2000    3000    4000    5000    6000    7000    8000 
           Level   ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.
==============================================================================
Temperature 220*  218*    216*    214*    212*    211*    209*    207*    205*
______________________________________________________________________________
*Degrees Fahrenheit

REFRIGERATOR TEST--Remove the jam mixture from the heat.  Pour a small amount
of boiling jam on a cold plate and put it in the freezing compartment of a
refrigerator for a few minutes.  If the mixture gels, it is ready to put into
jars.

Once the jelly tests done, remove from heat and quickly skim off foam.  Fill
sterile jars with jelly.  To sterilize empty jars, put them right side up on
the rack in a boiling-water canner.  Fill the canner and jars with hot (not
boiling) water to 1 inch above the tops of the jars.  Boil 10 minutes.  At
higher elevations, boil 1 additional minute for each additional 1000 ft.
elevation.  Remove and drain hot sterilized jars one at a time.  Save the hot
water for processing filled jars.  Using a measuring cup or ladle, pour the
jelly through a wide-mouthed funnel, leaving 1/4-inch headspace.  Adjust lids
and process.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      JAM WITHOUT ADDED  PECTIN              /
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style                ____________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size     0-1000 ft.        1001-5000 ft.        5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Half-Pints     5 min.             10 min.             15 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MAKING JAMS AND JELLIES WITH ADDED PECTINS                  
-DOC-
                  MAKING JAMS AND JELLIES WITH ADDED PECTINS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Fresh fruits and juices as well as commercially canned or frozen fruit juice
can be used with commercially prepared powdered or liquid pectins.  The order
of combining ingredients depends on the type of pectin used.  Complete
directions for a variety of fruits are provided with packaged pectin.  Jelly or
jam made with added pectin requires less cooking and generally gives a larger
yield.  These products have more natural fruit flavors, too.  In addition,
using added pectin eliminates the need to test hot jellies and jams for proper
gelling.  Adding 1/2 teaspoon of butter or margarine with the juice and pectin
will reduce foaming.  However, these may cause off-flavor in long-term storage
of jellies and jams.  Recipes available with packaged pectins include:

Jellies--Apple, crabapple, blackberry, boysenberry, dewberry, currant,
elderberry, grape, mayhaw, mint, peach, plum, black or red raspberry,
loganberry, rhubarb, and strawberry.

Jams--Apricot, blackberry, boysenberry, dewberry, loganberry, red raspberry,
youngberry, blueberry, cherry, currant, fig, gooseberry, grape, orange
marmalade, peach, pear, plum, rhubarb, strawberry, and spiced tomato.
Be sure to use Mason canning jars, self-sealing two-piece lids, and a 5-minute
process (corrected for altitude, as necessary) in boiling water.  Even though
sugar helps preserve jellies and jams, molds can grow on the surface of these
products.  Research now indicates that the mold which people usually scrape off
the surface of jellies may not be as harmless as it seems.  Mycotoxins have
been found in some jars of jelly having surface mold growth.  Mycotoxins are
known to cause cancer in animals; their effects on humans are still being
researched.

Because of possible mold contamination, paraffin or wax seals are no longer
recommended for any sweet spread, including jellies.  To prevent growth of
molds and loss of good flavor or color, fill products hot, in sterile Mason
jars, and seal with self-sealing lids.

Purchase fresh pectin each year.  Old pectin may result in poor gels.  Follow
the instructions with each package and process as below.





//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      JELLY AND JAM WITH ADDED PECTIN        / 
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style                ____________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size     0-1000 ft.        1001-5000 ft.        5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Half-Pints     5 min.             10 min.             15 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"




-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
REMAKING SOFT JELLIES                             
-DOC-
                             REMAKING SOFT JELLIES
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Measure jelly to be recooked.  Work with no more than 4 to 6 cups at a time.

TO REMAKE WITH POWDERED PECTIN:  For each quart of jelly, mix 1/4 cup sugar,
1/2 cup water, 2 tablespoons bottled lemon juice, and 4 teaspoons powdered
pectin.  Bring to a boil while stirring.  Add jelly and bring to a rolling boil
over high heat, stirring constantly.  Boil hard 1/2 minute.  Remove from heat,
quickly skim off foam from jelly, and fill sterile jars, leaving 1/4-inch
headspace, add lids, adjust and process.  

TO REMAKE WITH LIQUID PECTIN:  For each quart of jelly, measure 3/4 cup sugar,
2 tablespoons bottled lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons liquid pectin.  Bring
jelly only to boil over high heat, while stirring.  Remove from heat and
quickly add the sugar, lemon juice, and pectin.  Bring to a full rolling boil,
stirring constantly.  Boil hard for 1 minute.  Quickly skim off foam and fill
sterile jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace.  Adjust new lids and process.

TO REMAKE WITHOUT ADDED PECTIN:  For each quart of jelly, add 2 tablespoons
bottled lemon juice.  Heat to boiling and boil for 3 to 4 minutes.  Use one of
these two tests given in the original instructions for determining jelly
doneness:

TEMPERATURE TEST--Use a jelly or candy thermometer and boil until mixture
reaches the following temperatures at altitudes of:
_____________________________________________________________________________
           Sea    1000    2000    3000    4000    5000    6000    7000    8000 
           Level   ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.     ft.
==============================================================================
Temperature 220*  218*    216*    214*    212*    211*    209*    207*    205*
______________________________________________________________________________
*Degrees Fahrenheit

SHEET OR SPOON TEST--Dip a cool metal spoon into the boiling jelly mixture. 
Raise the spoon about 12 inches above the pan (out of steam).  Turn the spoon
so the liquid runs off the side.  The jelly is done when the syrup forms two
drops that flow together and sheet or hang off the edge of the spoon.

Once the jelly tests done, remove from heat and quickly skim off foam.  Fill
sterile jars with jelly. 

TO STERILIZE THE JARS:  Put jars right side up on the rack in a boiling-water
canner.  Fill the canner and jars with hot (not boiling) water to 1 inch above
the tops of the jars.  Boil 10 minutes.  At higher elevations, boil 1
additional minute for each additional 1000 ft. elevation.  Remove and drain hot
sterilized jars one at a time.  Save the hot water for processing filled jars.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/   Recommended process time for      REMADE SOFT JELLIES                    / 
/   in a boiling-water canner                                                /
/                                     Process Time at Altitudes of           /
/  Style                ____________________________________________________ /
/  of Pack  Jar size     0-1000 ft.        1001-5000 ft.        5001-8000 ft./
/ ___________________________________________________________________________/
/  Hot      Half-Pints     5 min.             10 min.             15 min.    /
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEFORE YOU CAN VEGETABLES, MEAT, POULTRY, OR SEAFOOD             
-DOC-
             BEFORE YOU CAN VEGETABLES, MEAT, POULTRY, OR SEAFOOD
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Pressure canning is the only recommended method for canning meat, poultry,
seafood, and vegetables.  The bacterium Clostridium botulinum in low-acid foods
is destroyed when they are processed at the correct time and pressure in
pressure canners.  Using boiling water canners for these foods poses a real
risk of botulism. 

If these bacteria survive and grow inside a sealed jar of food, they can
produce a poisonous toxin.  EVEN A TASTE OF FOOD CONTAINING THIS TOXIN CAN BE
FATAL.  Boiling food 10 minutes destroys this poison when it is present.  
CAUTION: To prevent the risk of botulism, low-acid and tomato foods not canned
according to the recommendations in this publication or according to other
USDA-endorsed recommendations should be boiled even if you detect no signs of
spoilage.  

All foods canned according to the approved recommendations may be eaten without
boiling them when you are sure of all the following:
   - Food was processed in a pressure canner
   - Gauge of the pressure canner was accurate
   - Up-to-date researched process times and pressures were used for the size  
     of jar, style of pack, and kind of food being canned.
   - The process time and pressure recommended for sterilizing the food at your
     altitude was followed.
   - Jar lid is firmly sealed and concave.
   - Nothing has leaked from the jar.
   - No liquid spurts out when jar is opened.
   - No unnatural or "off" odors can be detected.

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DO YOUR CANNED FOODS PASS THE TEST?                      
-DOC-
                      DO YOUR CANNED FOODS PASS THE TEST?
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Overall appearance
   Good proportion of solid to liquid
   Full pack with proper headspace
   Liquid just covering solid
   Free of air bubbles
   Free of imperfections--stems, cores, seeds
   Good seals
   Practical pack that is done quickly and easily

Fruit and Vegetables
   Pieces uniform in size and shape
   Characteristic, uniform color
   Shape retained--not broken or mushy
   Proper maturity

Liquid or syrup
   Clear and free from sediment

                                Source:  USDA "Complete Guide to Home Canning"
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BARNWELL - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               BARNWELL - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed community residential centers in Barnwell County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BARNWELL - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                BARNWELL - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Healing Springs ICF, Inc.               
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 518               
                : Blackwell, SC  29817
       Location : Rt.1                          
                : Blackwell, SC  29817
          Phone : 284-3553
          Owner : Healing Springs Int. Care Inc.          
  Administrator : Sarah Jane Odom          
 License Number : ICF115
   Beds - Total :   26
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   26





       Facility : Kirkland Convalescent Home, Inc.        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 250               
                : Williston, SC  29853
       Location : Hwy. 78                       
                : Williston, SC  29853
          Phone : 266-3229
          Owner : Kirkland Convalescent Home, Inc.        
  Administrator : Barbara T. Kirkland      
 License Number : ICF134
   Beds - Total :   20
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   20





       Facility : Wildwood Health Care Center             
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 215               
                : Blackville, SC  29817
       Location : Jones Bridge Rd.              
                : Blackville, SC  29817
          Phone : 284-2213
          Owner : Hungerford Associates, Inc.             
  Administrator : Pace B. Hungerford       
 License Number : ICF144
   Beds - Total :   85
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   85

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BARNWELL - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    BARNWELL - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Barnwell County Nursing Home            
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 588                
                : Barnwell, SC  29812
       Location : Wren Street                   
                : Barnwell, SC  29812
          Phone : 259-5547
          Owner : Barnwell Co. Nursing Home               
  Administrator : Paula E. Birt            
 License Number : NCF247
   Beds - Total :   40
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   40
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Barnwell County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BARNWELL - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                BARNWELL - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Academy Street Community Residence      
Mailing Address : PO Box 556 Barnwell         
                : Williston, SC  29812
       Location : Academy Street                
                : Williston, SC  29853
          Phone : 259-7472
          Owner : Barnwell Co. Dev. Ctr. Inc.             
  Administrator : Belinda K. Calcutt       
 License Number : M1552 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Blacks Drive Community Residence        
Mailing Address : PO Box 556 Barnwell         
                : Williston, SC  29812
       Location : Blacks Drive                  
                : Williston, SC  29853
          Phone : 259-7472
          Owner : Barnwell Co. Developmental Ctr., Inc.   
  Administrator : D. Ray Wade, Ph.D.       
 License Number : M1550 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Harley Road Community Residence         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 556               
                : Williston, SC  29812
       Location : 801 Harley Road               
                : Williston, SC  29853
          Phone : 259-7472
          Owner : Country Trend, Inc.                     
  Administrator : Ray Wade, Ph.D.          
 License Number : M1535 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Lemon Park Community Residence          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 556               
                : Barnwell, SC  29812
       Location : 901 Lemon Park Dr.            
                : Barnwell, SC  29812
          Phone : 259-7472
          Owner : Barnwell Co. Developmental Ctr., Inc.   
  Administrator : D. Ray Wade, Ph.D.       
 License Number : M1551 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      The Seabrook of Hilton Head, Inc.
                             300 Wood Haven Drive
                        Hilton Head Island, SC  29928
                                (803) 842-3747
                               Beaufort County

Contact Person:...............................Robert J. Allen, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....50%
Residential capacity..........................200
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 149
Description of Units.................. Five story mid-rise
Nursing home ......................... YES, 44 bed dually licensed skilled 
                                       nursing facility
Units purchased or rented............. Purchased
Security provisions .................. Car parking stickers, security on
                                       premises from 4pm-8am, automatic unlatch
                                       system to front entrance
Safety features of unit............... Fire proofed masonary construction,
                                       smoke and sprinkler system, 24hr. 
                                       emergency call, resident safety program
Handicapped accommodations............ Complex designed for active daily
                                       living for the physically handicapped
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  YES
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident boards and committees
                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 60 yrs. of age and over, personal
                                       data application form
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO, membership purchase is required
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. Fees set based on non-profit basis
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Management prepares forecasted budgets,
                                       and board adopts
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Monthly fees may be subsidized
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... 15 free days accumulated over five
                                       years, fee for service
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ May be listed for resale at owner's
                                       discretion





INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEAUFORT - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               BEAUFORT - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Bostick's Adult Residential Care Fac.   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1841           
                : Beaufort, SC  29902
       Location : 1912 Duke St.                 
                : Beaufort, SC  29902
          Phone : 524-3906
          Owner : Josephine Bostick & Marcia Bostick 
  Administrator : Josephine Bostick        
 License Number : 143
    No. of Beds :  20











       Facility : Oakhurst Community Care Home            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 900            
                : Seabrook, SC       
       Location : 4 Miles East of Dale          
                : Seabrook, SC  29940
          Phone : 846-6262
          Owner : Woodrow Daniels, Sr.               
  Administrator : Gwhendla Morales         
 License Number : 345
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Phoenix Residential Care                
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 311            
                : Laurel Bay, SC  29901
       Location : Rt. l, Box 285 AD             
                : Laurel Bay, SC  29904
          Phone : 525-7407
          Owner : Beaufort Cty Commission on ADA     
  Administrator : D. H. Boyne              
 License Number : 122
    No. of Beds :   8







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Beaufort County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEAUFORT - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    BEAUFORT - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Bay View Nursing Center, Inc.           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1103              
                : Beaufort, SC  29902
       Location : Todd Drive                    
                : Beaufort, SC  29902
          Phone : 524-8511
          Owner : Bay View Nursing Center, Inc.           
  Administrator : Sheila G. Wright         
 License Number : NCF351
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  132
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Hilton Head Center of S.C., Inc.        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1936              
                : Hilton Head, SC  29925
{_       Location : 37 Bill Fries Dr.             
                : Hilton Head, SC  29925
          Phone : 681-6006
          Owner : Hilton Head Center of S. C., Inc.       
  Administrator : Beth Cliett              
 License Number : NCF406
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : The Seabrook of Hilton, Inc.            
Mailing Address : 300 Wood Haven Dr.          
                : Hilton Head, SC  29928
       Location : 300 Wood Haven Drive          
                : Hilton Head, SC  29928
          Phone : 842-3747
          Owner : The Seabrook of Hilton Head Inc.        
  Administrator : Annette R. Martin        
 License Number : NCF414
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEAUFORT - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                       
-DOC-
                       BEAUFORT - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Dayreach Adult Day Care                           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 5064                
                : Hilton Head, SC  29938
       Location : 20 Palmetto Parkway           
                : Hilton Head, SC  29938
          Phone : 681-6450
          Owner : Nursing Reg. of HHI, Inc.          
  Administrator : Ruth Lavey               
 License Number : ADC32 
   Participants :  20








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEAUFORT - LICENSED HOSPICES                          
-DOC-
                          BEAUFORT - LICENSED HOSPICES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Caroline Hospice of Beaufort, Inc.                
Mailing Address : 706 Bay St.                   
                : Beaufort, SC  29902
       Location : 706 Bay St.                   
                : Beaufort, SC  29902
          Phone : 525-6257
          Owner : Caroline Hospice of Beaufort, Inc. 
  Administrator : Veronica Tovey           
 License Number : HOS13 
   Participants :   0











       Facility : Hospice Volunteers of Hilton Head, Inc.           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 7092                
                : Hilton Head, SC  29938
       Location : Mariott Center Plaza          
                : Hilton Head, SC  29938
          Phone : 842-4112
          Owner : Hos. Volunteers of Hilton Head, Inc
  Administrator : Carole Klein             
 License Number : HOS8  
   Participants :   0








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEAUFORT - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                BEAUFORT - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Port Royal Community Residence          
Mailing Address : 1508 Old Shell Rd.          
                : Port Royal, SC  29935
       Location : 1508 Old Shell Rd.            
                : Port Royal, SC  29935
          Phone : 524-3001
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Wilson V. Inabinet       
 License Number : IMR149
   Beds - Total :   16
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   16

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Berkeley County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BERKELEY - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               BERKELEY - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Antonio Vause Community Res. Care       
Mailing Address : 1273 Redbank Rd.         
                : Goose Creek, SC  29445
       Location : 1273 Redbank Rd.              
                : Goose Creek, SC  29445
          Phone : 552-8038
          Owner : Melanie A. Vause                   
  Administrator : Melanie A. Vause         
 License Number : 432
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : DeHay House                             
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 425            
                : Moncks Corner, SC       
       Location : 121 West Main St.             
                : Moncks Corner, SC  29461
          Phone : 761-8513
          Owner : Berkeley Citizens for Retarded etc.
  Administrator : Pamela H. Dulude         
 License Number : 116
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Oakview Boarding Home                   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 584            
                : Moncks Corner, SC       
       Location : Hwy. 17-A                     
                : Moncks Corner, SC  29461
          Phone : 761-3273
          Owner : Lucille Bryant                     
  Administrator : Lucille Bryant           
 License Number : 92 
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : Omoooo Community Care Home              
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 480-B         
                : Summerville, SC       
       Location : Rt. 2, Box 480-B              
                : Summerville, SC  29483
          Phone : 688-4439
          Owner : Oliver & Mina Levine               
  Administrator : Mina Levine              
 License Number : 190
    No. of Beds :  18







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Berkeley County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BERKELEY - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    BERKELEY - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Berkeley Convalescent Center            
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 1467               
                : Moncks Corner, SC  29461
       Location : 505 South Live Oak Dr.        
                : Moncks Corner, SC  29461
          Phone : 899-5292
          Owner : Service Management, Inc.                
  Administrator : Richard Ellickson        
 License Number : NCF401
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :   88

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BERKELEY - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                       
-DOC-
                       BERKELEY - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Berkeley County Adult Day Care Center             
Mailing Address : 108 Carolina Ave              
                : Moncks Corner, SC  29461
       Location : 108 Carolina Ave.             
                : Moncks Corner, SC  29461
          Phone : 761-8658
          Owner : Trident Council on Aging           
  Administrator : Shirley A. Parker        
 License Number : ADC3  
   Participants :  10








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Berkeley
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Calhoun County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CALHOUN - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                CALHOUN - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed community residential centers in Calhoun County.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Calhoun County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CALHOUN - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    CALHOUN - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed skilled nursing care facilities in Calhoun
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Calhoun County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CALHOUN - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                 
-DOC-
                 CALHOUN - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Florence Gressette Residence            
Mailing Address : Rt. l Box 31 Cameron        
                : St. Matt, SC  29030
       Location : Milligan St.                  
                : St. Matt, SC  29135
          Phone : 823-2019
          Owner : Calhoun County Housing, Inc.            
  Administrator : Anita G. Linder          
 License Number : M1544 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Wylie-Brunson Residence                 
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 31               
                : St. Matthews, SC  29030
       Location : 403 Milligan St.              
                : St. Matthews, SC  29135
          Phone : 823-2019
          Owner : Calhoun County Housing, Inc.            
  Administrator : Risley E. Linder         
 License Number : M1543 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                               
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist
                                                                    
                                 Cooper Hall
                               937 Bowman Road
                           Mt. Pleasant, SC  29464
                                (803) 884-6949
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................James C. Long, Administrator
Proportion of residents from other states:....25%
Residential capacity..........................250-275
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 190 apartments
Description of Units.................. Three story buildings
Nursing home ......................... Guaranteed space in local facility
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Guard and nurse on duty at night,
                                       entire structure in one building
Safety features of unit............... Smoke alarms, sprinkler system,
                                       fire walls throughout building
Handicapped accommodations............ Not specifically
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Not shared with general public
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Suggestions encouraged, resident's
                                       committees

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 55 yrs of age or older, capable of
                                       independent living
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. NO
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Based on economy with increases in
                                       monthly charge ceiling based on cost
                                       of living
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... N/A
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Total nursing home costs
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Reasonable/fair length of term


                            The Elms of Charleston
                            9100 University Blvd.
                            Charleston, SC  29418
                                (803) 572-5154
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Ernie P. Wolfe, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....50%
Residential capacity..........................377
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 377
Description of Units.................. Detached houses, villas, condominiums
Nursing home ......................... Arrangements with local facility
Units purchased or rented............. Purchased
Security provisions .................. Private access to community, security
                                       patrol, electronic security gate

Safety features of unit............... Sprinkler system in condominium
                                       building, walls fire rating, floor/
                                       ceiling rating, emergency call system
Handicapped accommodations............ Wheelchair access, grab bars,
                                       handrails
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Management via homeowner's association
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures...............Homeowners association
                                   CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 50yrs of age and over, annual income
                                       of $20-$40,000
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Based on cost of services provided
                                       and limited to a 10% annual increase
                                       tied to the CPI, whichever is greater
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Responsible for all obligations and
                                       duties
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Required to pay for their own personal
                                       care
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as necessary
                              Sandpiper Village
                           1224 Village Creek Lane
                           Mt. Pleasant, SC  29464
                               (803) 884- 5735
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Tony Burns, Interim Administrator
Proportion of residents from other states:....40%
Residential capacity..........................150-160
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 133
Description of Units.................. Cluster Cottages
Nursing home ......................... First available bed in Sandpiper
                                       Convalescent Center
Units purchased or rented............. Monthly service fee
Security provisions .................. 24hr security guard, site enclosed
                                       by security fence
Safety features of unit............... Nurse call in units, sprinkler system,
                                       smoke detectors, grab bars in bathroom
Handicapped accommodations............ Units accommodate physically handicap
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Copy of escrow agreement available
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident advisory board, suggestion box

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62 yrs of age and over, adequate health
                                       insurance, income
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Fixed monthly costs
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Has not been a problem
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... 14 days a year covered under village
                                       contract, daily charge/on going rate
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as resident pays fees minus

                      Bishop Gadsden Episcopal Community
                              126 Coming Street
                            Charleston, SC  29403
                                (803) 722-7799
                              Charleston County


Contact Person:...............................William Trawick, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....5%
Residential capacity..........................70
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 70
Description of Units.................. One story buildings
Nursing home ......................... None at present, future plans
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. 24hr security personnel, electronic 
                                       security system on all doors
Safety features of unit............... Call system, grab bars in bathroom

Handicapped accommodations............ 12 handicapped designed units, units 
                                       ground level, handrails
Visitor tour available................ Information unavailable
Financial soundness information shared:  Review of annual audit with residents
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident's Association

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 55 yrs or older, capable of independent 
                                       living
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES

Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Cost of service and debt service on 
                                       building
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... No policy at present
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Resident totally responsible
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ No policy at present

Facility will be completed October, 1987.
                               Cantebury House
                             175 Market St. Box 5
                            Charleston, SC  29401
                                (803) 723-5553
                              Charleston County


Contact Person:...............................N. A. (Buddy) Terry Jr., Dir.
Proportion of residents from other states:....35%
Residential capacity..........................225
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 204 apartments
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Entrance limited to two doors
Safety features of unit............... Emergency cords, 24hr staff

Handicapped accommodations............ Sit down shower with handrail, 
                                       wheelchairs permitted on a temporary
                                       basis, but home makes no provisions for
                                       handicapped persons
Visitor tour available................ Information unavailable
Financial soundness information shared:  Capital improvement needs discussed 
                                       at occasional meetings
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Advisory council, activities committee

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62yrs or older, ambulatory and capable 
                                       of independent living, income ceiling
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Board of directors submitted to HUD for 
                                       approval
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Assisted with discretionary church funds
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Total, rent must still be paid
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Not fixed
           The Franke Home - Evangelical Lutheran Charities Society
                              261 Calhoun Street
                            Charleston, SC  29401
                                (803) 577-4041
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................George H. Keil, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....Entered from other states but
                                              have local family
Residential capacity..........................77

                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 1 building
Description of Units.................. Rooms (private and semi-private)
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Anti-panic hardware on all doors, doors 
                                       locked after dark, alarms, 24hr staff
Safety features of unit............... Automatic sprinkler, smoke/heat detector
Handicapped accommodations............ Residents must be ambulatory
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Financial information not disseminated
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' Council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Ambulatory, sufficient income/assets to 
                                       pay all charges
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. NO
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. NO
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Based on services provided and 
                                       operating expenses
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Must seek other accommodations
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Individual's expense
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as individual pays monthly fees
                              Ansonborough House
                                71 Society St.
                            Charleston, SC  29401
                                (803) 722-4127
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Joan Barnes, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....2%
Residential capacity..........................77
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 77 apartments
Description of Units.................. Mid rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. 24 hr. security
Safety features of unit............... Call system, emergency generator
                                       Hall railings, fire hose, sprinklers
Handicapped accommodations............ Wide doors, baths, sinks, waist high
                                       wall plugs
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  N/A
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Tenant's group

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Income, 62 yrs and older
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. N/A
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. N/A
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... HUD requirements
Refund method outlined in contract.... N/A
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Subsidized housing 
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... N/A
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as there is the possibility
                                       they may return and the rent is paid

                                Brighton Place
                              1429 Orleans Road
                            Charleston, SC  29407
                                (803) 722-1942
                              Charleston County


Contact Person:...............................Jane W. Pharr, Property Mgr.
Proportion of residents from other states:....1%
Residential capacity..........................100
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 100
Description of Units.................. Apartments
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Community guard services paid by tenants
Safety features of unit............... Fire alarms, security bells, steel doors
Handicapped accommodations............ 2 Apartments designed for handicapped
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Information unavailable
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Tenants organization

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Age, income, health status
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... HUD requirements
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Subsidized housing
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay rent until family removes their
                                       belongings
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as resident desires
                    Buskirk Street Housing for the Elderly
                                P.O. Box 10387
                         North Charleston, SC  29622
                                (803) 553-6659
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Irene K. Alexander, Manager
Proportion of residents from other states:....None
Residential capacity..........................20
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 20 apartments
Description of Units.................. Row apartments
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Emergency buzzers, deadbolt  locks on
                                       front and back doors
Safety features of unit............... Pull up bars in bathrooms
Handicapped accommodations............ 2 units access wheelchairs
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  N/A
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Governed by HUD regulations

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62 yrs or older, disabled by Social
                                       Security requirements, income
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Rent based on 30% formula after 
                                       deductions
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... If income decreases so does rent
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Apartment must be vacated
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ No set time limit, depends on 
                                       physician's statement
                   John's Island Rural Housing Development
                               3624 Maybank Hwy
                           John's Island, SC  29455
                                (803) 559-5501
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Maggie M. McGill, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....None
Residential capacity..........................106
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 88
Description of Units.................. Cluster cottages
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Night security
Safety features of unit............... Emergency switches in bathroom
                                       Bedroom with handrails
                                       Seat in showers
Handicapped accommodations............ Access handicapped persons,
                                       wheelchair cabinets in bathroom
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  At the corporation's discretion
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Community council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62 yrs of age and older, disabled
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Handled by finance office
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Subsidy provided
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Varies
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Living unit is not maintained


                              Joseph Floyd Manor
                            2106 Mt. Pleasant St.
                            Charleston, SC  29403
                                (803) 722-1942
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Jane W. Pharr, Property Mgr.
Proportion of residents from other states:....1%
Residential capacity..........................156
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 156 apartments
Description of Units.................. High Rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Community guard services paid by tenants
Safety features of unit............... Fire alarms, security bells, steel doors
Handicapped accommodations............ Apartments designed for handicapped
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Information unavailable
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Tenants organization

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Age, income, health status
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... HUD requirements
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Subsidized housing
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay rent until family removes their
                                       belongings
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as resident desires
                              The Sherman House
                            1635 Wallenberg Blvd.
                            Charleston, SC  29407
                                (803) 763-2242
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Faye R. Olasov, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....7 residents from other states
Residential capacity..........................56
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 56 apartments
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Alarms, tenants' doors checked each
                                       morning and night
Safety features of unit............... Fire drills, fire walls, smoke detectors
                                       emergency cord, emergency generator
Handicapped accommodations............ 3 first floor apartments, handrails in
                                       bathroom
Visitor tour available................ By appointment
Financial soundness information shared:  Question has never been raised
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Tenant's organization
                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62 yrs or older, income, health status
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Noted in lease
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Provided with a period of time to pay
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Security deposit returned with interest
                                       minus repair cost if necessary
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Family is permitted to maintain unit
                                       for 2 months

                              Sandpiper Village
                           1224 Village Creek Lane
                           Mt. Pleasant, SC  29464
                               (803) 884- 5735
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Tony Burns, Interim Administrator
Proportion of residents from other states:....40%
Residential capacity..........................150-160
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 133
Description of Units.................. Cluster Cottages
Nursing home ......................... First available bed in Sandpiper
                                       Convalescent Center
Units purchased or rented............. Monthly service fee
Security provisions .................. 24hr security guard, site enclosed
                                       by security fence
Safety features of unit............... Nurse call in units, sprinkler system,
                                       smoke detectors, grab bars in bathroom
Handicapped accommodations............ Units accommodate physically handicap
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Copy of escrow agreement available
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident advisory board, suggestion box

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62 yrs of age and over, adequate health
                                       insurance, income
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Fixed monthly costs
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Has not been a problem
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... 14 days a year covered under village
                                       contract, daily charge/on going rate
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as resident pays fees minus
                                       meal charges
                      Bishop Gadsden Episcopal Community
                              126 Coming Street
                            Charleston, SC  29403
                                (803) 722-7799
                              Charleston County


Contact Person:...............................William Trawick, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....5%
Residential capacity..........................70
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 70
Description of Units.................. One story buildings
Nursing home ......................... None at present, future plans
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. 24hr security personnel, electronic 
                                       security system on all doors
Safety features of unit............... Call system, grab bars in bathroom
Handicapped accommodations............ 12 handicapped designed units, units 
                                       ground level, handrails
Visitor tour available................ Information unavailable
Financial soundness information shared:  Review of annual audit with residents
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident's Association

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 55 yrs or older, capable of independent 
                                       living
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Cost of service and debt service on 
                                       building
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... No policy at present
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Resident totally responsible
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ No policy at present

Facility will be completed October, 1987.
                               Cantebury House
                             175 Market St. Box 5
                            Charleston, SC  29401
                                (803) 723-5553
                              Charleston County


Contact Person:...............................N. A. (Buddy) Terry Jr., Dir.
Proportion of residents from other states:....35%
Residential capacity..........................225
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 204 apartments
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Entrance limited to two doors
Safety features of unit............... Emergency cords, 24hr staff
Handicapped accommodations............ Sit down shower with handrail, 
                                       wheelchairs permitted on a temporary
                                       basis, but home makes no provisions for
                                       handicapped persons
Visitor tour available................ Information unavailable
Financial soundness information shared:  Capital improvement needs discussed 
                                       at occasional meetings
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Advisory council, activities committee

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62yrs or older, ambulatory and capable 
                                       of independent living, income ceiling
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Board of directors submitted to HUD for 
                                       approval
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Assisted with discretionary church funds
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Total, rent must still be paid
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Not fixed
           The Franke Home - Evangelical Lutheran Charities Society
                              261 Calhoun Street
                            Charleston, SC  29401
                                (803) 577-4041
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................George H. Keil, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....Entered from other states but
                                              have local family
Residential capacity..........................77


                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 1 building
Description of Units.................. Rooms (private and semi-private)
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Anti-panic hardware on all doors, doors 
                                       locked after dark, alarms, 24hr staff
Safety features of unit............... Automatic sprinkler, smoke/heat detector
Handicapped accommodations............ Residents must be ambulatory
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Financial information not disseminated
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' Council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Ambulatory, sufficient income/assets to 
                                       pay all charges
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. NO
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. NO
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Based on services provided and 
                                       operating expenses
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Must seek other accommodations
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Individual's expense
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as individual pays monthly fees
                              Ansonborough House
                                71 Society St.
                            Charleston, SC  29401
                                (803) 722-4127
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Joan Barnes, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....2%
Residential capacity..........................77
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 77 apartments
Description of Units.................. Mid rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. 24 hr. security
Safety features of unit............... Call system, emergency generator
                                       Hall railings, fire hose, sprinklers
Handicapped accommodations............ Wide doors, baths, sinks, waist high
                                       wall plugs
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  N/A
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Tenant's group

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Income, 62 yrs and older
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. N/A
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. N/A
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... HUD requirements
Refund method outlined in contract.... N/A
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Subsidized housing 
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... N/A
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as there is the possibility
                                       they may return and the rent is paid
                                Brighton Place
                              1429 Orleans Road
                            Charleston, SC  29407
                                (803) 722-1942
                              Charleston County


Contact Person:...............................Jane W. Pharr, Property Mgr.
Proportion of residents from other states:....1%
Residential capacity..........................100
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 100
Description of Units.................. Apartments
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Community guard services paid by tenants
Safety features of unit............... Fire alarms, security bells, steel doors
Handicapped accommodations............ 2 Apartments designed for handicapped
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Information unavailable
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Tenants organization

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Age, income, health status
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... HUD requirements
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Subsidized housing
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay rent until family removes their
                                       belongings
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as resident desires
                    Buskirk Street Housing for the Elderly
                                P.O. Box 10387
                         North Charleston, SC  29622
                                (803) 553-6659
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Irene K. Alexander, Manager
Proportion of residents from other states:....None
Residential capacity..........................20
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 20 apartments
Description of Units.................. Row apartments
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Emergency buzzers, deadbolt  locks on
                                       front and back doors
Safety features of unit............... Pull up bars in bathrooms
Handicapped accommodations............ 2 units access wheelchairs
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  N/A
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Governed by HUD regulations

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62 yrs or older, disabled by Social
                                       Security requirements, income
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Rent based on 30% formula after 
                                       deductions
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... If income decreases so does rent
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Apartment must be vacated
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ No set time limit, depends on 
                                       physician's statement
                   John's Island Rural Housing Development
                               3624 Maybank Hwy
                           John's Island, SC  29455
                                (803) 559-5501
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Maggie M. McGill, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....None
Residential capacity..........................106
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 88
Description of Units.................. Cluster cottages
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Night security
Safety features of unit............... Emergency switches in bathroom
                                       Bedroom with handrails
                                       Seat in showers
Handicapped accommodations............ Access handicapped persons,
                                       wheelchair cabinets in bathroom
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  At the corporation's discretion
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Community council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62 yrs of age and older, disabled
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Handled by finance office
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Subsidy provided
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Varies
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Living unit is not maintained

                              Joseph Floyd Manor
                            2106 Mt. Pleasant St.
                            Charleston, SC  29403
                                (803) 722-1942
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Jane W. Pharr, Property Mgr.
Proportion of residents from other states:....1%
Residential capacity..........................156
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 156 apartments
Description of Units.................. High Rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Community guard services paid by tenants
Safety features of unit............... Fire alarms, security bells, steel doors
Handicapped accommodations............ Apartments designed for handicapped
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Information unavailable
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Tenants organization

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Age, income, health status
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... HUD requirements
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Subsidized housing
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay rent until family removes their
                                       belongings
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as resident desires
                              The Sherman House
                            1635 Wallenberg Blvd.
                            Charleston, SC  29407
                                (803) 763-2242
                              Charleston County

Contact Person:...............................Faye R. Olasov, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....7 residents from other states
Residential capacity..........................56
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 56 apartments
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Alarms, tenants' doors checked each
                                       morning and night
Safety features of unit............... Fire drills, fire walls, smoke detectors
                                       emergency cord, emergency generator
Handicapped accommodations............ 3 first floor apartments, handrails in
                                       bathroom
Visitor tour available................ By appointment
Financial soundness information shared:  Question has never been raised
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Tenant's organization

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62 yrs or older, income, health status
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Noted in lease
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Provided with a period of time to pay
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Security deposit returned with interest
                                       minus repair cost if necessary
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Family is permitted to maintain unit
                                       for 2 months





INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHARLESTON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS              
-DOC-
              CHARLESTON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Addison's Residential Care              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 10412          
                : Charleston, SC  29405
       Location : 2419 Lupine St.               
                : Charleston, SC  29405
          Phone : 554-5653
          Owner : Elizabeth Addison & Jessie White   
  Administrator : Elizabeth Addison        
 License Number : 348
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Bowles Community Care Home              
Mailing Address : 9270 Hwy. #17 N.         
                : McClellanville, SC       
       Location : 9270 Hwy. #17 North           
                : McClellanville, SC  29458
          Phone : 887-3453
          Owner : Wilmatine & Benjamin Bowles        
  Administrator : Wilmatine Bowles         
 License Number : 90 
    No. of Beds :  16











       Facility : Brown's Residential Care Facility       
Mailing Address : 89 Alabama St.           
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 89 Alabama St.                
                : Charleston, SC  29405
          Phone : 744-1725
          Owner : Maggie Brown                       
  Administrator : Maggie Brown             
 License Number : 309
    No. of Beds :   2











       Facility : Cabading Residential Home Care Facility 
Mailing Address : 3431 Rivers Ave.         
                : N. Charleston, SC  29405
       Location : 3431 Rivers Avenue            
                : N. Charleston, SC  29405
          Phone : 747-3050
          Owner : Lolita B. Babading                 
  Administrator : Lolita B. Cabading       
 License Number : 394
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Carter-May Home                         
Mailing Address : 1660 Ingram Rd.          
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 1660 Ingram Road              
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 556-8314
          Owner : Catholic Charities of Charleston   
  Administrator : Rev. James Paker         
 License Number : 64 
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : Charleston Cty ADA - Family Care Unit   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 2635           
                : Charleston, SC  29403
       Location : 25 Courtenay Drive            
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 723-7212
          Owner : Charleston Cty Substance Abuse Comm
  Administrator : Franklin L. Johnson      
 License Number : 220
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : Charleston Cty Sub. Abuse Comm-Detox    
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 2635           
                : Charleston, SC  29403
       Location : 25 Courtenay Drive            
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 723-7212
          Owner : Charleston Cty Substance Abuse Comm
  Administrator : Franklin L. Johnson      
 License Number : 221
    No. of Beds :  20











       Facility : Christian Boarding Home                 
Mailing Address : 2117 Comm. Rd.           
                : N. Charleston, SC  29415
       Location : 2117 Commander Road           
                : N. Charleston, SC  29415
          Phone : 744-6253
          Owner : Martha Alston & Margaret Logan     
  Administrator : Margaret Logan           
 License Number : 141
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : Cochran's Boarding Home                 
Mailing Address : 380 Huger St.            
                : Charleston, SC  29403
       Location : 380 Huger Street              
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 723-5930
          Owner : Rudolph Cochran                    
  Administrator : James L. McFadden        
 License Number : 25 
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Evergreen Residential Care              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 31774          
                : Charleston, SC  29417
       Location : 1612 Evergreen St.            
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 766-5745
          Owner : Gary O. & Clara Lesesne            
  Administrator : Gary O. Lesesne          
 License Number : 26 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Foster Boarding Home                    
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 2034           
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 134 Fishburne St.             
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 723-9168
          Owner : Joanna Foster                      
  Administrator : Xavier Foster            
 License Number : 145
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Franke Home                             
Mailing Address : 26l Calhoun St.          
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 261 Calhoun St.               
                : Charleston, SC  29401
          Phone : 577-4041
          Owner : Evangelical Lutheran Charities etc.
  Administrator : B. D. Wilkinson          
 License Number : 339
    No. of Beds :  77











       Facility : Frasier Adult Residential Care Home     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 42             
                : Johns Island, SC  29455
       Location : 1134 Main Rd.                 
                : Johns Island, SC  29455
          Phone : 559-5235
          Owner : Mr. & Mrs. Liston Frasier          
  Administrator : Marie Frasier            
 License Number : 367
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Friendship House                        
Mailing Address : 1333 N. Sherwood Dr.     
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 1333 North Sherwood Dr.       
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 766-0112
          Owner : Friendship House Inc.              
  Administrator : Enola Davis              
 License Number : 344
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Gadsden & Felder Community Care Home    
Mailing Address : 197 W. Poplar St.        
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 197 W. Poplar St.             
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 577-4147
          Owner : Ada R. Gadsden & Caroline Felder   
  Administrator : Ada R. Gadsden           
 License Number : 36 
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Genesis Community Care Home #1          
Mailing Address : 19l7 Cosgrove Ave.       
                : N. Charleston, SC       
       Location : 1917 Cosgrove Ave.            
                : N. Charleston, SC  29405
          Phone : 747-1175
          Owner : Andrea Magwood                     
  Administrator : Andrea Magwood           
 License Number : 101
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Genesis Community Care Home #2          
Mailing Address : 19l7 Cosgrove Ave.       
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 1917 Cosgrove Ave.            
                : Charleston, SC  29405
          Phone : 747-1175
          Owner : Andrea Magwood                     
  Administrator : Andrea Magwood           
 License Number : 102
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Genesis Community Care Home #3          
Mailing Address : 1903 Cosgrove Ave.       
                : N. Charleston, SC       
       Location : 1903 Cosgrove Ave.            
                : N. Charleston, SC  29405
          Phone : 744-2792
          Owner : Andrea Magwood                     
  Administrator : Andrea Magwood           
 License Number : 107
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Green's Boarding Home                   
Mailing Address : 2009 Cosgrove            
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 2009 Cosgrove Ave.            
                : Charleston, SC  29405
          Phone : 577-9639
          Owner : Pernetta G. Simmons                
  Administrator : Pernetta G. Simmons      
 License Number : 299
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : HHS Adult Residential Care              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 30787          
                : Charleston, SC  29417
       Location : 720 Magnolia Rd.              
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 763-6767
          Owner : Home Health Services, Inc.         
  Administrator : Harry Joe King           
 License Number : 428
    No. of Beds :  86











       Facility : Hazel's Rest Home                       
Mailing Address : PO Box 2132 Sta A        
                : Chs, SC       
       Location : 432-A Sumter St.              
                : Chs, SC  29403
          Phone : 722-6417
          Owner : Hazel's Rest Home, Inc.            
  Administrator : Corinne B. Hazel         
 License Number : 57 
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Helen McGill's Boarding Home            
Mailing Address : 31 Coming St.            
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 31 Coming St.                 
                : Charleston, SC  29401
          Phone : 723-8460
          Owner : Helen McGill                       
  Administrator : Helen McGill             
 License Number : 76 
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : James Island Residential Home           
Mailing Address : 1845 Greenmore Dr.       
                : James Island, SC  29407
       Location : 237 Fleming Rd.               
                : James Island, SC  29412
          Phone : 577-3511
          Owner : Martha S. Alston                   
  Administrator : Martha S. Alston         
 License Number : 155
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : James Residential Care Facility         
Mailing Address : 2529 Lupine St.          
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 2529 Lupine St.               
                : Charleston, SC  29405
          Phone : 744-0152
          Owner : Elizabeth Addison & Jessie White   
  Administrator : Elizabeth Addison        
 License Number : 56 
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : Lambs Road Community Residence          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 8059           
                : N. Charleston, SC       
       Location : 4788 Lambs Rd.                
                : N. Charleston, SC  29418
          Phone : 552-9617
          Owner : Gregco, Inc.                       
  Administrator : Rosemarie G. West        
 License Number : 223
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Langit's Community Residential Care     
Mailing Address : 7652 Northaven Dr.       
                : Charleston, SC  29418
       Location : 1263 Remount Rd.              
                : Charleston, SC  29406
          Phone : 747-4080
          Owner : Cresencia B.Langit                 
  Administrator : Cresencia B. Langit      
 License Number : 371
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : Loving Care Residential Care Home       
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 5193           
                : N. Charleston, SC       
       Location : 4822 Upjohn Rd.               
                : N. Charleston, SC  29406
          Phone : 554-9764
          Owner : Christine Brown                    
  Administrator : Christine Brown          
 License Number : 366
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : M & S Adult Care                        
Mailing Address : 320 Sumter St.           
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 320 Sumter St.                
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 722-2456
          Owner : Maybelle Mitchell & Louise Smith   
  Administrator : Maybelle Mitchell        
 License Number : 70 
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Maple Manor Community Care Home         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 32073          
                : Charleston, SC  29417
       Location : 164 Maple St.                 
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 766-2327
          Owner : Palmetto Pathway Homes, Inc.       
  Administrator : Barbara Julius           
 License Number : 164
    No. of Beds :  20











       Facility : Marjorie's Community Care Home          
Mailing Address : 207 W. Poplar St.        
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 207 W. Poplar St.             
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 722-4792
          Owner : Marjorie G. Oree&Evelyn N. Woffard 
  Administrator : Marjorie G. Oree         
 License Number : 22 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : McLeod Manor Residential Home           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 30175          
                : Charleston, SC  29412
       Location : 1707 McLeod Ave.              
                : Charleston, SC  29412
          Phone : 795-8780
          Owner : Martha S. Alston & Doris R. Miller 
  Administrator : Martha S. Alston         
 License Number : 425
    No. of Beds :  16











       Facility : McTeel's Rest Home                      
Mailing Address : 1917 Calvert St.         
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 1927 Calvert St.              
                : Charleston, SC  29405
          Phone : 747-8176
          Owner : James LeRoy McFadden & Estelle Teel
  Administrator : James LeRoy McFadden     
 License Number : 123
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Mohammed's Boarding Home                
Mailing Address : 3797 Chisolm Rd.         
                : Johns Island, SC       
       Location : 3797 Chisolm Rd.              
                : Johns Island, SC  29455
          Phone : 559-9078
          Owner : Blanche Mohammed                   
  Administrator : Blanche Mohammed         
 License Number : 65 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Rhode's Boarding Home                   
Mailing Address : 942 River Rd.            
                : Johns Island, SC       
       Location : 942 River Rd.                 
                : Johns Island, SC  29455
          Phone : 559-1124
          Owner : Eulalee Rhode                      
  Administrator : Eulalee P. Rhode         
 License Number : 279
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Sally's Boarding Home                   
Mailing Address : 23 Race St.              
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 23 Race St.                   
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 577-0268
          Owner : Loretta Salley                     
  Administrator : Loretta Salley           
 License Number : 179
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Sampson Residential Care                
Mailing Address : 4018 S. Rhett            
                : N. Charleston, SC       
       Location : 4018 S. Rhett                 
                : N. Charleston, SC  29406
          Phone : 554-0733
          Owner : Elizabeth G. Salley                
  Administrator : Elizabeth Salley         
 License Number : 48 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Shamrock House, Inc.                    
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 70782          
                : N. Charleston, SC  29415
       Location : 1812 Orvid St.                
                : N. Charleston, SC  29405
          Phone : 744-2787
          Owner : Shamrock House, Inc.               
  Administrator : Katherine Kenzler        
 License Number : 183
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Sherman & Wright Boarding Home #1       
Mailing Address : 937 5th Ave.             
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 937 5th Ave.                  
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 571-3579
          Owner : Carrie L. Sherman/Myrnal S. Wright 
  Administrator : Carrie Lee Sherman       
 License Number : 422
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Sherman & Wright Boarding Home #2       
Mailing Address : 920 5th St.              
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 920 5th St.                   
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 571-6278
          Owner : Carrie Lee Sherman                 
  Administrator : Carrie Lee Sherman       
 License Number : 424
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Spell's Boarding Home                   
Mailing Address : 3577 Walter Dr.          
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 3577 Walter Dr.               
                : Charleston, SC  29455
          Phone : 559-2771
          Owner : Mrs. C. E. Spell, Sr.              
  Administrator : C. E. Spell, Sr. (Mrs.)  
 License Number : 364
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : St. Jude Community Residential Care     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 32111          
                : Charleston, SC  29417
       Location : 533 Rutledge Ave.             
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 577-9153
          Owner : Ernestine Lawrence                 
  Administrator : Ernestine Lawrence       
 License Number : 385
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : St. Margaret Street Community Residence 
Mailing Address : 227 St. Margaret         
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 227 St. Margaret St.          
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 723-7931
          Owner : Goodwill Ind. of Lower S. C., Inc. 
  Administrator : Robert G. Smith          
 License Number : 130
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : St. Mark Community Care Home            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 31571          
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 1140 5th Ave.                 
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 571-1487
          Owner : Margaret St. Mark                  
  Administrator : Margaret St. Mark        
 License Number : 270
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : St. Mark's Boarding Home                
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 31571          
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 1222 Brody Ave.               
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 766-9768
          Owner : Margaret St. Mark                  
  Administrator : Margaret St. Mark        
 License Number : 266
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : T.L.C. for Adults                       
Mailing Address : 1928 Baxter              
                : Charleston Hts., SC       
       Location : 1928 Baxter St.               
                : Charleston Hts., SC  29405
          Phone : 554-5376
          Owner : Anna Belle Gilliard                
  Administrator : Anna Belle Gilliard      
 License Number : 355
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : West Ashley Boarding Home               
Mailing Address : 836 Magnolia Rd.         
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 836 Magnolia Rd.              
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 763-7471
          Owner : Queen E. Starks                    
  Administrator : Queen E. Starks          
 License Number : 156
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Westerlin Residential Care              
Mailing Address : 36 Magnolia Rd.          
                : Charleston, SC       
       Location : 36 Magnolia Rd.               
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 556-7787
          Owner : Elizabeth B. Bozard                
  Administrator : Elizabeth A. Bertino     
 License Number : 151
    No. of Beds :   9







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Charleston County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHARLESTON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                   
-DOC-
                   CHARLESTON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Coastal Center D-3, D, E & F            
Mailing Address : 12 Jamison Rd.              
                : Ladson, SC  29456
       Location : 12 Jamison Rd.                
                : Ladson, SC  29456
          Phone : 873-5750
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Erbert F. Cicenia        
 License Number : NCF310
   Beds - Total :  365
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   53
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :  312





       Facility : Coastal Center Infant Care Unit         
Mailing Address : 12 Jamison Rd.              
                : Ladson, SC  29456
       Location : 12 Jamison Rd.                
                : Ladson, SC  29456
          Phone : 873-5750
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Jackson S. Howell Jr. PhD
 License Number : NCF342
   Beds - Total :   32
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   22
     Beds - Icf :   10





       Facility : Coastal Center Live Oak Village         
Mailing Address : 12 Jamison Rd.              
                : Summerville, SC  29456
       Location : 615 Central Ave.              
                : Summerville, SC  29483
          Phone : 873-5750
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Erbert F. Cicenia, Ed.D. 
 License Number : NCF331
   Beds - Total :   50
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   50
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Cooper Hall Nursing Center              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1026              
                : Mt. Pleasant, SC  29464
       Location : 921 Bowman Road               
                : Mt. Pleasant, SC  29464
          Phone : 884-8903
          Owner : James B. Connelly                       
  Administrator : James B. Connelly        
 License Number : NCF362
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  132
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Driftwood on the Ashley                 
Mailing Address : 2375 Baker Hosp. Blvd.      
                : N.Charleston, SC  29405
       Location : 2375 Baker Hospital Blvd.     
                : N.Charleston, SC  29405
          Phone : 744-2750
          Owner : Driftwood Health Care Managers, Inc.    
  Administrator : Calvin D. Lipscomb       
 License Number : NCF439
   Beds - Total :  160
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  160
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Herminia Traeye Mem. Nursing Home       
Mailing Address : Box 689                     
                : Johns Island, SC  29455
       Location : 3627 Maybank Hwy.             
                : Johns Island, SC  29455
          Phone : 559-5501
          Owner : Sea Island Comp. Health Care Corp.      
  Administrator : Mary F. Brown            
 License Number : NCF390
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   44
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   44





       Facility : Manor Care of Charleston Inc.           
Mailing Address : 1137 Sam Rittburg Blvd.     
                : Chs, SC  29407
       Location : 1137 Sam Rittenburg Blvd.     
                : Chs, SC  29407
          Phone : 763-0233
          Owner : Manor Care of Charleston Inc.           
  Administrator : Robert W. Dougherty      
 License Number : NCF413
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  132
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : North Charleston Convalescent Center    
Mailing Address : 9319 Med Plz Dr             
                : Charleston, SC  29418
       Location : 9319 Medical Plaza Dr.        
                : Charleston, SC  29418
          Phone : 797-8282
          Owner : White Oak Manor, Inc.                   
  Administrator : Ted P. Jones             
 License Number : NCF376
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  132
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Sandpiper Convalescent Center Inc.      
Mailing Address : 1049 Anna Knapp             
                : Mt. Pleasant, SC  29464
       Location : 1049 Anna Knapp Blvd.         
                : Mt. Pleasant, SC  29464
          Phone : 881-3210
          Owner : Sandpiper Convalescent Center Inc.      
  Administrator : Phillip Waters           
 License Number : NCF399
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  132
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHARLESTON - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                      
-DOC-
                      CHARLESTON - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : H.H.S. Adult Day Care                             
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 30787               
                : Charleston, SC  29417
       Location : 720 Magnolia Rd.              
                : Charleston, SC  29417
          Phone : 763-6767
          Owner : Home Health Services, Inc.         
  Administrator : E. Wayne Combs           
 License Number : ADC34 
   Participants : 150











       Facility : Manor Care Adult Day Care Center                  
Mailing Address : 1137 Sam Rittenberg Blvd.     
                : Charleston, SC  29407
       Location : 1137 Sam Rittenberg Blvd.     
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 763-0233
          Owner : Manor Care Charleston Nursing Ctr. 
  Administrator : Blanca S. Vazquez        
 License Number : ADC8  
   Participants :  10











       Facility : Reid House Adult Day Care Center                  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 2846                
                : Charleston, SC  29403
       Location : 165 St. Phillip Street        
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 723-7138
          Owner : Reid House of Christian Science    
  Administrator : Dolores S. Greene        
 License Number : ADC25 
   Participants :  30








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHARLESTON - LICENSED HOSPICES                         
-DOC-
                         CHARLESTON - LICENSED HOSPICES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Hospice of Charleston, Inc.                       
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1125                
                : Charleston, SC  29402
       Location : 615 Wesley Dr., Suite 302     
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 763-0350
          Owner : Hospice of Charleston, Inc.        
  Administrator : Roberta H. Frank         
 License Number : HOS7  
   Participants :   0


~w





-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHARLESTON - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION               
-DOC-
               CHARLESTON - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Firestone Rd. Community Residence       
Mailing Address : 3641 Firestone Rd.          
                : N. Chs, SC  29405
       Location : 3641 Firestone Rd.            
                : N. Chs, SC  29405
          Phone : 552-7201
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Wilson V. Inabinet, Jr.  
 License Number : M156  
   Beds - Total :   14
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   14





       Facility : Lenevar Community Residence             
Mailing Address : 1435 W. Lenevar Dr.         
                : Charleston, SC  29407
       Location : 1435 W. Lenevar Dr.           
                : Charleston, SC  29407
          Phone : 571-2916
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Wilson V. Inabinet, Jr.  
 License Number : M15 64
   Beds - Total :    9
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    9





       Facility : Rutledge Ave. Community Residence       
Mailing Address : 887 Rutledge Ave.           
                : Charleston, SC  29403
       Location : 887 Rutledge Ave.             
                : Charleston, SC  29403
          Phone : 792-7547
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Wilson V. Inabinet, Jr.  
 License Number : M157  
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Cherokee County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHEROKEE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               CHEROKEE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed community residential centers in Cherokee County.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Cherokee County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHEROKEE - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    CHEROKEE - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Brookview House, Inc.                   
Mailing Address : P. O Box 1240               
                : Gaffney, SC  29342
       Location : 510 Thompson Street           
                : Gaffney, SC  29342
          Phone : 489-3101
          Owner : Brookview House, Inc.                   
  Administrator : Charles Blanton, Jr.     
 License Number : NCF270
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :   44





       Facility : Cherokee Cty. Long Term Care Facility   
Mailing Address : 1420 N. Limestone St.       
                : Gaffney, SC  29340
       Location : 1420 N. Limestone St.         
                : Gaffney, SC  29340
          Phone : 487-4271
          Owner : Cherokee County                         
  Administrator : Tim Moran                
 License Number : NCF323
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   20
     Beds - Icf :   24

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Cherokee County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHEROKEE - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                CHEROKEE - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : J. Claude Fort Comm. Residence Bldg. 1  
Mailing Address : 816 W. Montgomery St.       
                : Gaffney, SC  29340
       Location : 816 W. Montgomery St.         
                : Gaffney, SC  29340
          Phone : 487-4786
          Owner : Habilitation Serv. of Cherokee Co., Inc.
  Administrator : J. Arthur Bridges, Jr.   
 License Number : M1521 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : J. Claude Fort Comm. Residence, Bldg. 2 
Mailing Address : 818 W. Montgomery St.       
                : Gaffney, SC  29340
       Location : 818 W. Montgomery St.         
                : Gaffney, SC  29340
          Phone : 487-4787
          Owner : Habilitation Serv. of Cherokee Co., Inc.
  Administrator : J. Arthur Bridges, Jr.   
 License Number : M1522 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Chester County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHESTER - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                CHESTER - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Butler's Rest Home                      
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 326           
                : Great Falls, SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 326                
                : Great Falls, SC  29055
          Phone : 482-3515
          Owner : Lucy I. & George Butler, Sr.       
  Administrator : Lucy I. Butler           
 License Number : 111
    No. of Beds :  10







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Chester County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHESTER - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    CHESTER - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Chester County Nursing Center           
Mailing Address : Great Falls Rd.             
                : Chester, SC  29706
       Location : Great Falls Road              
                : Chester, SC  29706
          Phone : 377-3151
          Owner : Chester Co. Hosp. & Nursing Ctr.        
  Administrator : Ron V. Hunter            
 License Number : NCF267
   Beds - Total :   62
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   62
     Beds - Icf :    0
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Chester County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Chester
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Chesterfield County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHESTERFIELD - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS             
-DOC-
             CHESTERFIELD - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Cheraw Manor                            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 272            
                : Cheraw, SC  29520
       Location : Homewood Park Road            
                : Cheraw, SC  29520
          Phone : 537-4197
          Owner : Winston Y. Godwin, Jr.             
  Administrator : Richard Haynes           
 License Number : 330
    No. of Beds : 106











       Facility : Cheraw Retirement Village               
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 845            
                : Cheraw, SC  29520
       Location : US Hwy. 1 South               
                : Cheraw, SC  29520
          Phone : 537-2111
          Owner : Cheraw Retirement Village, Inc.    
  Administrator : Heyward D. Sullivan      
 License Number : 192
    No. of Beds : 132







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Chesterfield County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHESTERFIELD - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                  
-DOC-
                  CHESTERFIELD - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Cheraw Nursing Home, Inc.               
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 967               
                : Cheraw, SC  29520
       Location : Hwy. 9, West                  
                : Cheraw, SC  29520
          Phone : 537-3621
          Owner : Cheraw Nursing Home, Inc.               
  Administrator : Edward R. Frye           
 License Number : NCF415
   Beds - Total :  100
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  100
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Chesterfield County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHESTERFIELD - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION              
-DOC-
              CHESTERFIELD - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Pageland Community Residence            
Mailing Address : PO Box 3209, Flo            
                : Pageland, SC  29502
       Location : 509 Sycamore St.              
                : Pageland, SC  29728
          Phone : 669-3661
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Danny Hinson             
 License Number : M1542 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Clarendon County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CLARENDON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               CLARENDON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Clarendon Retirement Village            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 640            
                : Manning, SC  29102
       Location : Hwy. 30l South                
                : Manning, SC  29102
          Phone : 473-3504
          Owner : Clarendon Retirement Village, Inc. 
  Administrator : Fred Lookabill           
 License Number : 49 
    No. of Beds :  90











       Facility : Dorch Community Residential Care        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 122            
                : Manning, SC  29102
       Location : Highway 52l                   
                : Manning, SC  29102
          Phone : 473-2191
          Owner : Roxie W. Dorch                     
  Administrator : Roxie W. Dorch           
 License Number : 434
    No. of Beds :  13











       Facility : Essie's Villa Comm Res Care             
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 383            
                : Manning, SC       
       Location : 25 Williams Acres Rd.         
                : Manning, SC  29102
          Phone : 473-2349
          Owner : Rev. C. W. & Eartha L. Williams    
  Administrator : Eartha L.Y. Williams     
 License Number : 166
    No. of Beds :   5







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Clarendon County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CLARENDON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                   
-DOC-
                   CLARENDON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Briggs Nursing Home                     
Mailing Address : Route 5, Box 665            
                : Manning, SC  29102
       Location : Highway 15 North of Summerton 
                : Manning, SC  29102
          Phone : 478-2323
          Owner : Clarendon Home, Inc.                    
  Administrator : Jerry E. Spann           
 License Number : NCF397
   Beds - Total :   64
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   38
     Beds - Icf :   26
w3
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Clarendon County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CLARENDON - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                CLARENDON - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Vanguard Residential Services, Inc., I  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 159               
                : Manning, SC  29102
       Location : 200 E. Hospital St.           
                : Manning, SC  29102
          Phone : 435-4208
          Owner : Vanguard Residential Services, Inc.     
  Administrator : R. J. Aycock, III        
 License Number : M1548 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Vanguard Residential Services, Inc., II 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 159               
                : Manning, SC  29102
       Location : 512 S. Church St.             
                : Manning, SC  29102
          Phone : 435-4208
          Owner : Vanguard Residential Services, Inc.     
  Administrator : R. J. Aycock, III        
 License Number : M1549 
   Beds - Total :    7
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    7

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Colleton County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COLLETON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               COLLETON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Bright's Estate Residential Care        
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 284           
                : Greenpond, SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 284                
                : Greenpond, SC  29446
          Phone : 844-2066
          Owner : Mary Lou Bright & Naomi Adams      
  Administrator : Mary Lou Bright          
 License Number : 176
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Lowcountry Crossroad Halfway House      
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1017           
                : Walterboro, SC       
       Location : 219 S. Lemacks St.            
                : Walterboro, SC  29488
          Phone : 549-9565
          Owner : Colleton Cty Comm on ADA           
  Administrator : J. S. Bagnal             
 License Number : 174
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Palmetto Boarding Home                  
Mailing Address : P. O. Drawer 1145        
                : Walterboro, SC       
       Location : Hwy. 15                       
                : Walterboro, SC  29488
          Phone : 538-2450
          Owner : Palmetto Boarding Home, Inc.       
  Administrator : Sarah S. Kemp            
 License Number : 300
    No. of Beds :  26











       Facility : Samaritan's Way, Inc.                   
Mailing Address : 212 Josie Dr.            
                : Walterboro, SC       
       Location : 212 Josie Dr.                 
                : Walterboro, SC  29488
          Phone : 549-5909
          Owner : Samaritan's Way, Inc.              
  Administrator : Donald W. McCaaw         
 License Number : 34 
    No. of Beds :   9







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Colleton County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COLLETON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    COLLETON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Oakwood Health Care Center              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1154              
                : Walterboro, SC  29488
       Location : 410 Witsell St.               
                : Walterboro, SC  29488
          Phone : 549-5546
          Owner : Southern Medical of Walterboro, Inc.    
  Administrator : Mack Whittle             
 License Number : NCF368
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   34
    Beds - Dual :   40
     Beds - Icf :   58

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Colleton County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COLLETON - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                COLLETON - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Walterboro Community Residence          
Mailing Address : 505 Forest Circle           
                : Walterboro, SC  29488
       Location : 505 Forest Circle             
                : Walterboro, SC  29488
          Phone : 549-5140
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Wilson V. Inabinet, Jr.  
 License Number : M1519 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                             Bethea Baptist Home
                                P.O. Box 4000
                            Darlington, SC  29532
                                (803) 393-2867
                              Darlington County

Contact Person:...............................J. T. Garrett, Exec. Dir.
                                              Horace Hawes, Jr., Admin.
Proportion of residents from other states:....None
Residential capacity..........................238
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 238
Description of Units.................. 30 cottages, 120 dormitory rooms
Nursing home ......................... Infirmary, 88 licensed beds
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Department of Health and Environmental 
                                       Control compliance
Safety features of unit............... Same as above
Handicapped accommodations............ Same as above
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Information unavailable
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident Services Department and 
                                       committee

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Must be a South Carolinian, Southern 
                                       Baptist, 65 yrs or older, independent
                                       functioning
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Board of Trustees
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Assisted by SC Baptist State Convention
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Increases to meet additional costs
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Will vary









INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DARLINGTON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS              
-DOC-
              DARLINGTON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Darlington Retirement Center            
Mailing Address : 327 Law St.              
                : Darlington, SC       
       Location : 327 Law St.                   
                : Darlington, SC  29532
          Phone : 395-0024
          Owner : Dr. Joe Willis                     
  Administrator : Mark Willis              
 License Number : 317
    No. of Beds :  38







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DARLINGTON - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES               
-DOC-
               DARLINGTON - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Darlington Convalescent Center          
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 185                
                : Darlington, SC  29532
       Location : 352 Pearl St.                 
                : Darlington, SC  29532
          Phone : 393-0401
          Owner : The Wilson Group Inc.                   
  Administrator : Patricia B. McLeod       
 License Number : ICF99 
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   44

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Darlington County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Darlington
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Dillon County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DILLON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                DILLON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Minturn Residential Care Facility       
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 23             
                : Minturn, SC       
       Location : General Delivery              
                : Minturn, SC  29573
          Phone : 774-3382
          Owner : Southern Medical Corporation       
  Administrator : Juanelle McEachin        
 License Number : 381
    No. of Beds :  60







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Dillon County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
}i                     DILLON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
-DOC-
}i                     DILLON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Pines Nursing & Convalescent Home       
Mailing Address : 203 Lakeside Dr.            
                : Dillon, SC  29536
       Location : 203 Lakeside Dr.              
                : Dillon, SC  29536
          Phone : 774-2741
          Owner : Beverly Enterprises - S. C. Inc.        
  Administrator : Richard C. Cooke         
 License Number : NCF452
   Beds - Total :   84
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   84
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Sunny Acres Nursing Home, Inc.          
Mailing Address : Rt. 1, Box 115              
                : Fork, SC  29543
       Location : Rt. l, Box 115                
                : Fork, SC  29543
          Phone : 464-6212
          Owner : Sunny Acres Nursing Home Inc.           
  Administrator : Tony R. Cooke            
 License Number : NCF25 
   Beds - Total :  111
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   57
     Beds - Icf :   54

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Dillon County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Dillon
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                     Presbyterian Home of South Carolina
                                C.M.R. Box 140
                            Summerville, SC  29483
                                (803) 873-8726
                              Dorchester County

Contact Person:...............................Keith Stewart
Proportion of residents from other states:....Small percentage
Residential capacity..........................330
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 214
Description of Units.................. Rooms, cottages, apartments
Nursing home ......................... YES, 90 bed skilled infirmary
Units purchased or rented............. Both
Security provisions .................. 5:00pm-am guard on duty, doors locked
                                       at night, special entrance
Safety features of unit............... Medication and cleaning objects locked, 
                                       handrails in halls, no smoking in
                                       rooms, fire drills
Handicapped accommodations............ Several rooms handicapped designed
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Upon request
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident's Council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Able to care for personal needs, 
                                       ambulatory, 65yrs old, priority to
                                       members of Presbyterian Church, USA
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... According to cost of operation
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Offered assistance from endowment
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Charges based on amount per day in 
                                       addition to room and board
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ 30 days
                          Pine Ridge Elderly Housing
                             600 Greenwave Blvd.
                            Summerville, SC  29483
                                (803) 875-1519
                              Dorchester County

Contact Person:...............................Sandra W. Hart, Manager
Proportion of residents from other states:....Most from South Carolina
Residential capacity..........................74

                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 74 apartments
Description of Units.................. Row apartments
Nursing home ......................... None, family makes arrangements
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Deadbolt locks, periodic police patrol
Safety features of unit............... Emergency call system, smoke detector
Handicapped accommodations............ Some units for handicapped person; 
                                       special showers, fixtures, kitchen, etc.
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  It is not
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Suggestion box, resident meetings

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62 yrs or older or handicapped or 
                                       disabled, within income limits, US
                                       citizen, can care for self or someone
                                       living with them for this reason
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... based on income
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Government subsidized
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Does not have to give a 30 day notice
                                       in reference to the lease
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ A reasonable length of time as long    
                                       as rent is paid








INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DORCHESTER - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS              
-DOC-
              DORCHESTER - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Dorchester County Rest Home             
Mailing Address : 82l Central Ave.         
                : Summerville, SC       
       Location : 821 Central Ave.              
                : Summerville, SC  29483
          Phone : 873-3022
          Owner : James Swygert                      
  Administrator : Leona W. Ancrum          
 License Number : 258
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Presbyterian Home of South Carolina     
Mailing Address : CMR Box 140              
                : Summerville, SC       
       Location : 9th North St.                 
                : Summerville, SC  29483
          Phone : 873-2550
          Owner : Presbyterian Home of S. C.         
  Administrator : D. K. Stewart            
 License Number : 245
    No. of Beds : 120











       Facility : Walsh Rest Home                         
Mailing Address : 780 E. Butternut         
                : Summerville, SC       
       Location : 780 E. Butternut Rd.          
                : Summerville, SC  29483
          Phone : 873-3620
          Owner : Sue Winter                         
  Administrator : Sue Winter               
 License Number : 71 
    No. of Beds :  20







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Dorchester County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DORCHESTER - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                   
-DOC-
                   DORCHESTER - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Oakbrook Convalescent Center            
Mailing Address : 920 Travelers Blvd.         
                : Summerville, SC  29483
       Location : 920 Travelers Blvd.           
                : Summerville, SC  29483
          Phone : 875-9053
          Owner : WMR, Inc.                               
  Administrator : Patricia H. Gerwig       
 License Number : NCF460
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Presbyterian Home of S.C./Summerville   
Mailing Address : CMR Box 140                 
                : Summerville, SC  29484
       Location : 9 North St.                   
                : Summerville, SC  29484
          Phone : 873-2550
          Owner : Presbyterian Home of S. C.              
  Administrator : Keith D. Stewart         
 License Number : NCF202
   Beds - Total :   90
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   90
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    0




Mr. Richard T. Poore         County Commissioners Bldg.  649-7115 PVT/DIR
Aiken County DSS             102 Williamsburg Street     649-1111
P. O. Drawer 1268            Aiken                       649-1112
Aiken 29802-1268                                         649-1113 PROT SVCS
                                                         649-1114 WIN/SAU
                                                         649-1418 TRANS
                                                         648-7878 ECON SVCS
                             291 Beaufort Street         648-7878 ECON SVCS
                                                         648-7864 ECON SVCS
                                                         648-7865 ECON SVCS
                             127 Williamsburg Street     649-3950 WIN
Ms. Barbara F. Smith         The James B. Brandt         584-2181 DIRECTOR
Allendale County DSS            Agriculture Bldg.        584-3956 DIRECTOR
P. O. Box 128                Allendale                   584-3103 HUM SVCS
Allendale  29810
                             McSweeney Bldg.             584-3232 ECON SVCS
                             Railroad Avenue             584-4378 ECON SVCS
                             Allendale                   584-4093 ECON SVCS

Mr. Kenneth Pryor            Old Health Dept. Bldg.      260-4100 ECON SVCS
Anderson County DSS          213 S. Towers Street
P. O. Box 827                Anderson
Anderson 29622-0827
                             Anderson Cty. Office Bldg.  260-4450 HUM SVCS
                             107 S. Main Street          260-4490 CHD PROT SVCS
                             Anderson                    260-4455 DIRECTOR

Ms. WadeDelle S. Moody       Bamberg County Human        245-5587 DIRECTOR
Bamberg County DSS              Resources Center         245-4361
P. O. Box 60
Bamberg 29003
Ms. Addie F. Moseley         Ed Richardson Bldg.         259-7161
Barnwell County Dss          Highway 278
P. O. Box 1306
Barnwell 29812

Mr. Fred S. Washington, Jr.  311 West Street             525-7367 DIRECTOR
Beaufort County DSS          Beaufort                    525-7361 ECON SVCS
P. O. Box 1065                                           525-7362 ECON SVCS
Beaufort 29901-1065                                      525-7396 FS ISS SUP
                                                         525-7397 FS ISS
                                                         525-7394 CWEP REC
                                                         525-7503 CWEP CRD
                             Beaufort County Operator    525-7100

                             1713 Prince Street          525-7321 H SVC REC
                             Beaufort

Mr. Joseph M. Craddock       2 Belt Drive                761-8044
Berkeley County DSS          Moncks Corner               723-0723
P. O. Box 158                                            577-0772
Moncks Corner 29461
Ms. Ann W. Whetstone         County Agriculture Bldg.    874-3384
Calhoun County DSS           Railroad Avenue
P. O. Box 467                St. Matthews
St. Matthews  29135

Mr. William J. Knowles       County Center               792-7346 INFO
Charleston County DSS        Charleston                  792-7290 DIRECTOR
Room 409, County Center                                  792-7236 ADMIN
Charleston  29403                                        554-0500 MID CTY OFF 
                                                         554-7764 DAY CARE
                                                         792-7280 ACCTG
                                                         792-7272 PERSONNEL
                                                         792-7218 ECON SVC
                                                         792-7240 HUM SVC

Ms. Lou V. Koopman           County Welfare              487-2508
Cherokee County DSS          326 S. Logan Street         487-2512 DIRECTOR
P. O. Box 606                Gaffney                     487-2523 HUM SVC
[BGaffney  29340
Mrs. Elizabeth C. Smith      115 Reedy Street            377-8131
Chester County DSS
P. O. Box 488
Chester  29706

Mr. James S. Sanders         202 W. Main Street          623-2147
Chesterfield County DSS      Chesterfield                623-6451 DIRECTOR
P. O. Box 269
Chesterfield  29709          Cheraw Branch Office        537-5481
                             165 Second Street

                             Pageland Branch Office      672-7443
                             107 Sycamore Street

Ms. Vera Covington           County Health Center        435-8922 DIRECTOR
Clarendon County DSS         South Church Street         435-8139
County Health Center         Manning                     435-8138
South Church Street                                      435-8475
Manning 29102                                            435-8476
Mr. Richmond Drawdy          200 Brown Street            549-1894 INFO
Colleton County DSS          Harrelson Bldg.             549-1012 DIRECTOR
P. O. Box 440                Walterboro
Walterboro  29488

Mr. Walter B. Copeland       Mozingo Bldg. Darlington    393-5451
Darlington County DSS        130 E. Camden Avenue        332-2231 DIRECTOR
P. O. Drawer 1377            Hartsville
Hartsville  29550
                             Main Street                 326-5591
                             Lamar

                             1736 Hall Street            378-4571
                             Society Hill

Ms. Ann P. Griffin           County Agriculture Bldg.    774-8284
Dillon County DSS            W. Main & 3rd Avenue        774-3461 DIRECTOR
P. O. Box 1307               Dillon
Dillon  29536
Mr. James H. Risher          217 Parler Avenue           563-9349 DIRECTOR
Dorchester County DSS        St. George
P. O. Box 906
St. George  29477            Services Bldg.              563-9375 CHD PROT SVCS 
                             Gavin Street                563-9371 ADT SVCS
                             St. George                           PROT SVCS

                             Food Stamp Office           563-9340 ECON SVCS
                             217 Parler Avenue           563-9342 MEDICAID
                             St. George                  563-9326 FSP

                             Summerville Office          871-5820
                             541 N. Cedar Street
                             Summerville

                             107 W. Sixth North Street   871-0322 CHILD PROT
                             Summerville                 871-0412 SVCS UNIT

Ms. Rachel T. Smith          County Courthouse           637-3125
Edgefield County DSS         129 Courthouse Square       637-3126
P. O. Box 644                Edgefield                   637-6265
Edgefield  29824
Mr. James T. Holcombe        117 E. Washington Street    635-5502
Fairfield County DSS         Winnsboro                   635-5503
P. O. Box 210                                            635-9810
Winnsboro  29180                                         635-1360 DIRECTOR

Ms. Anna Anderson            2685 S. Irby Street         669-3354 DIRECTOR
Florence County DSS          Florence
2865 S. Irby Street
Box A                        Lake City Office            394-8575
Florence  29501              159 S. Ron McNair Blvd.
                             Lake City  29560

Mr. Henry A. Stroup, Jr.     110 Broad Street            546-5134
Georgetown County DSS        Georgetown
Drawer P
Georgetown  29442

Ms. Sally H. Martin          17 S. Main Street           235-6963 DIRECTOR
Greenville County DSS        Greenville                  232-8703
P. O. Box 10887
Greenville  29603

Ms. Barbara D. Lyles         Greenwood Cty. Courthouse   229-6622
Greenwood County DSS         Greenwood
P. O. Box 1096
Greenwood  29646

Mr. Junior Ponds             B. T. DeLoach Bldg.         943-3641
Hampton County DSS           201 Jackson St., West
B. T. DeLoach Bldg.          Hampton
Hampton  29924

Ms. Joyce A. Todd            Former Cochran Elementary   365-5568 DIRECTOR
Horry County DSS                School                   365-5561 SOC SVCS
P. O. Drawer 1465            Oak Street Extension        365-5565 SOC SVCS
Conway  29526                Conway

Ms. Ollie S. McAlister       Corner of Highway 17        726-3959 DIRECTOR
Jasper County DSS               & Wilson Street          726-8131
P. O. Box 1349               Ridgeland                   726-8132
Ridgeland  29936                                         726-5760 FSP
                                                         726-5628 SVCS
                                                         726-5653 PROT SVCS 

Ms. Kathryn W. Baxley        County Social Svcs. Bldg.   432-7676
Kershaw County DSS           816 DeKalb Street
Drawer 590                   Camden
Camden  29020

Mr. W. Wayne Bell            Highway 9                   286-6914
Lancaster County DSS         Human Services Complex      286-7108 DIRECTOR
P. O. Box 859                Lancaster                   285-4480 PROT SVCS IN
Lancaster  29720

Ms. Joyce Benjamin           Garlington St. School Bldg. 984-0551
Laurens County DSS           201 Garlington Street
P. O. Box 986                Laurens
Laurens  29360

Ms. Fannie W. Watson         County Welfare Bldg.        484-5376
Lee County DSS               820 Brown Street
P. O. Box 389                Bishopville
Bishopville  29010
Mr. William E. Walker        Social Services Center      359-8270
Lexington County DSS         Gibson Road 541
P. O. Drawer 430
Lexington  29072

Ms. Evelyn L. Patterson      County Office Bldg.         465-2125 DIRECTOR
McCormick County DSS         Augusta Street              465-2436 FSP
P. O. Drawer D               McCormick                   465-2129 HUM SVCS
McCormick  29835                                         465-2627 ECON SVC
                                                         465-2215 EPSDT, TITLE
                                                                   XIX TRANS

Mr. Hybert N. Strickland Jr. Beeson Bldg.                423-4623 DSS, FSP
Marion County DSS            Airport Road                423-6421 DIRECTOR
P. O. Box 1135               Marion
Marion  29571

Ms. Ann B. Calhoun           Parsonage St. Extension     479-7181
Marlboro County DSS          Bennettsville               479-7186 PROT SVCS
P. O. Drawer 120                                                   INTAKES 
Bennettsville  29512                                     479-7188 DIRECTOR
                                                         479-7187 SUPV CONF
Mr. Jimmy H. Alewine         Newberry County Human       276-3611 DIRECTOR
Newberry County DSS             Services Center                   ECON SVCS
P. O. Box 309                1306 Hunt Street                     FSP
Newberry  29108              Newberry                             HUM SVCS
                                                         276-5182 ECON SVCS 
                                                                  FSP
                                                         276-7970 HUM SVCS
                                                                  DIRECTOR

Mr. J. Daniel Whitehurst Jr. Brown Square                638-5882
Oconee County DSS            Walhalla                    638-5883
P. O. Box 458                                            638-5938
Walhalla  29691                                          638-9883 CPS

Mr. Chester J. Tomson, Jr.   2570 Old St. Matthews       531-3101 ECON SVCS
Orangeburg County DSS           Road, N.E.                         ADMIN
P. O. Drawer E               Orangeburg                  531-3151 HUM SVCS
Orangeburg  29115                                        531-2279 PVT/DIR
Mr. John M. Bond             Social Services Bldg.       878-7819 ADMIN PERM 
Pickens County DSS           306 Pendleton Street                  PLAN
P. O. Box 158                Pickens                     878-7820 LICENSING
Pickens  29671                                           878-2451 CHD PROT SVCS 
                                                         855-0684 ADT PROT SVCS
                                                         868-2931  & ECON SVCS

Mr. Benjamin M. Blocker      County Adm. Bldg.           256-4200
Richland County DSS          2020 Hampton Street         254-4276 DIRECTOR
2020 Hampton Street          Columbia                    765-9870 ADULT SVCS
Columbia  29204                                                   WIN/SAU
                                                                  HOMEMAKERS
                                                         765-9871 FOOD STAMPS
                             NON-ASSISTANCE              765-9907 AFDC/AFDC-
                                                                  FOOD STAMPS
                                                                  MEDICAL-
                                                                  ASSISTANCE
                                                                  GENERAL-
                                                                  DISABILITY
                                                                  EPSDT
                                                         765-9873 SUPPORT SVCS
                                                                  ACCTNG
                                                                  CASE CONTROL
                                                                  MAIL ROOM
                                                                  PROCUREMENT
                                                                  SWITCHBOARD
                                                                  DATA MGMT
                                                         252-7702 PERSONNEL
                                                         765-1777 DEPUTY DIR
                                                         765-9242 SPEC PROJ DEV
                             Eastover Branch Office      353-2291
                                                         353-8768

Mr. Darron Wilson            120 S. Main Street          445-2139
Saluda County DSS            Saluda                      445-2130
P. O. Box 276                                            445-8151
Saluda  29138
Mr. James R. Thomson         Evans Human Resources       596-3035 DIRECTOR
Spartanburg County DSS          Center                   596-3039 HUM SVCS
P. O. Drawer 3548            142 S. Dean Street                   PROGRAM SUPV
Spartanburg  29304           Spartanburg                 596-3040 ECON SVCS
                                                                  PROG SUPV

Mr. Ronald H. Smith          105 N. Magnolia Street      778-2778 PVT/DIR
Sumter County DSS            Fourth Floor                773-5531
P. O. Box 68                 Sumter
Sumter  29151-0068

Ms. Lila K. Nichols          127 W. Main Street          427-5125 DIRECTOR
Union County DSS             Union                       427-1272
P. O. Box 428                                            427-1273
Union  29379                                             427-1274
                                                         427-1275

Mrs. Viola M. Frazier        Old Tomlinson High School   354-5411 DIRECTOR
Williamsburg County DSS      400 Lexington Avenue                 ECON SVCS
P. O. Drawer 389             Kingstree                            ISSUANCE
Kingstree  29556
                             Kingstree                   354-6694 SVCS

                             Hemingway Satellite Office  558-5132 AFDC & FS
                             P. O. Box 995               558-9241 AFDC & FS
                             Hemingway  29554

Mr. Newton Adams             18 W. Liberty Street        684-2315
York County DSS              York
P. O. Box 261
York  29745

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NATIONAL LEGISLATION RELATED TO CHILDREN                   
-DOC-
                   NATIONAL LEGISLATION RELATED TO CHILDREN
      Glennis M. Couchman, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

Economic Equity Act of 1987 (EEA)

Title II - Family

    Proposed legislation addresses dependent care issues.

    Information for provisions under Title II - Family can be found under
National Legislation Related to Adults under Economic Equity Act of 1987 -
Title II - Family.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NATIONAL LEGISLATION RELATED TO ADULTS                    
-DOC-
                    NATIONAL LEGISLATION RELATED TO ADULTS
      Glennis M. Couchman, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

Civil Rights Restoration Act of 1987 (S. 557)

Status:  Sent to Senate floor from Labor of Human Resources Committee

Provisions:

    The Act will reverse a 1984 Supreme Court decision that declared that
coverage of Title IX of the Education Amendments of 1972 applies only to
programs within educational institutions that receive federal funds. 
Currently, an educational institution is exempted from complying where Title IX
coverage would be in conflict with religious tenants of the organization.

    Abortion language was the center of committee debate.  The amendment now
states "Nothing in this title shall be construed to grant or secure or deny any
right relating to abortion or the funding thereof, or to require or prohibit
any person, or public or private entity or organization, to provide any benefit
or service relating to abortion."


FAMILY AND MEDICAL LEAVE ACT (H.R. 925)

Status:  House Education & Labor Committee approved the Act after adopting the
         compromise version of the measure.  Approved on 11/17/87.

Provisions:

    The key provisions of the compromise are as follows:

    * All employers with 50 or more employees for the first three years after
      enactment, and 35 employees thereafter, would be covered by the Act.

    * Covered employees would be entitled to ten weeks of family leave over a
      two-year period instead of 18 weeks.  Family leave could be taken after
      the birth or adoption of a child or in the event of a serious health
      condition of a child or parent.

    * Covered employees would be entitled to up to 15 weeks of medical leave
      over one year when the employee has a serious health condition.  Family
      leave was reduced to 10 weeks over a 2 year period.  A doctor's
      certificate is required.

    * Only workers who have been on the job for one year and who work at least
      20 hours a week are covered.

    * Employees in the top ten percent by salary of an employer's work force
      can be exempted from coverage if the employer can show grievous economic
      harm.

    * All leave is unpaid with a job guarantee and with a requirement that pre-
      existing health insurance be continued during the leave period.

ECONOMIC EQUITY ACT OF 1987 (EEA)

    1987 EEA is divided into two major titles -- WORK and FAMILY

                                TITLE I -- WORK

Part-time and Temporary Employee Benefits Protection Act
Rep. Patricia Schroeder

    Under the Employee Retirement Insurance Security Act (ERISA), an employee
must work at least 1000 hours per year in order to receive credit toward
vesting requirements of 1000 work hours per year down to 500 hours.
    This legislation would also require employers to offer health insurance
benefits to part-time and temporary workers on a pro rata basis if the employer
provides such benefits to full-time workers.  For example, if an employer pays
100 percent of a full-time worker's health insurance premiums, the employer
would have to offer to pay 50 percent of the premiums for a half-time employee.


Earnings Sharing (H.R. 674); (S. 3)

    H.R. 674 and S. 3 would amend Title II of the Social Security Act to
provide that the combined earnings of a husband and wife during their marriage
be divided equally and shared between them for benefit purposes, so as to
recognize the economic contribution of each spouse to the marriage and assure
that each spouse will have social security protection in his or her own right.

Pension Reform Act -- Rep. Barbara Kennelly

    This new pension bill would limit the practice of integration to only 50
percent of a recipient's pension benefit.  Integration is the practice of
offsetting a person's pension benefit by a certain percentage of that person's
social security benefit under current law, pension benefits accrued before 1989
can be reduced and in many cases completely eliminated by social security
benefits received.  The bill also would eliminate completely integration of
Simplified Employee Pensions (SEP's) used by small employers and would
eliminate integration of all other pensions after 1999.

    The bill would also expand pension plan coverage to more employees and
would reduce the vesting requirement of multi-employer pension plans from ten
years down to five to match the requirement for all other pension plans. 
Multi-employer plans are pension plans set up by different employers in the
same industry because workers in these industries tend to move from company to
company.

    Also included would be studies on the feasibility of providing cost of
living adjustments for pension benefits and on pension portability.


Spousal Impoverishment Act

Status:  On October 27 Senate passed a spousal impoverishment amendment to the
         catastrophic health care bill (H.R. 2470) and (S. 1127).



Provisions:

    The Mikulski-Mitchell-Kennedy (Senators) amendment would guarantee that
when one spouse goes into a nursing home, the remaining spouse does not become
impoverished by the costs of care until Medicaid starts paying for the nursing
home bills.  The amendment would allow the at-home spouse to keep up to $12,000
in assets and $750 a month in income without these amounts being counted
against the spouse in determining Medicaid eligibility.

    Senator Mikulski's original bill, S. 776, which is part of the Economic
Equity Act of 1987, H.R. 2577, called for the at-home spouse to keep up to $750
a month in income and assets equal to $25,000.

    The Senate catastrophic bill's sponsor, Finance Committee Chairman Senator
Lloyd Bentsen, has said that the new benefits would not add to the federal
deficit or deplete Medicare trust funds because new premiums on Medicare
recipients would cover all costs.





Nondiscrimination in Insurance

    This bill prohibits discrimination in insurance on the basis of race,
color, religion, national origin, or sex.

    In response to cost concerns, the bill was designed to be completely
prospective and would allow insurers to equalize future benefits in whatever
manner they choose.

                             TITLE II - FAMILY
                            Dependent Care Package

A.  IMPROVING THE QUALITY OF DEPENDENT CARE
    Training for Family Day Care Providers (H.R. 1001, Sec. 402)

    Both the House and Senate bills would provide $10 million to states to
train family day care providers, to train those who train providers, and to
make available the necessary technical assistance to improve the management of
and level of care offered in family day care homes.  Training and technical
assistance for family day care providers caring for handicapped children may
also be provided.  The Senate version would also establish a National Resource
Center on Family Day Care.
    Improvement of Child Care Standards (H.R. 1001, Sec. 201); (S. 934)

    Both bills would provide for incentive grants to states to assist them in
improving their child care regulatory and monitoring systems.  The bills also
would require states to establish State Advisory Committees to review state
laws, regulations, and procedures for licensing, regulating, and monitoring
child care services in both family day care and center-based settings.  A
National Advisory Committee would be established to develop and propose model
child care standards.  The House version calls for $50 million in incentive
grants, while the Senate version calls for $25 million.


B.  IMPROVING ACCESS TO CHILD CARE FOR ALL FAMILIES

    Dependent Care Tax Credit (H.R. 2456)

    H.R. 2456 would expand and index for inflation the dependent care tax
credit and would make the credit refundable to families who owe no income tax. 
In addition, this legislation would provide a new tax credit for respite care
expenses up to $1200.


    Latchkey Bill (H.R. 2105); (S. 222)

    The Dependent Care Development Grants Act was reauthorized in the 99th
Congress.  The Dependent Care Program established by the law helps address the
serious need for school-aged child care by establishing or improving before-
and after-school child care programs.


    Currently, under the law funds can be used only for start-up costs, not
ongoing program operating costs.  H.R. 2105 and S. 222 would remove this
prohibition and thereby increase the participation of lower-income families in
these programs, since programs set up in lower-income areas have a more
difficult time becoming self-sustaining and may need more than just start-up
funds to help them become financially sound.

    Child Care in Public Housing (H.R. 2518); (S. 183)
Status:  Included in the Housing & Community Development Authorization bill
         which passed on 11/9 in the House.

    H.R. 2518 and S. 183 would establish grants for child care programs in
public housing projects.  Public housing agencies would contract with nonprofit
organizations within their communities to provide child care services to lower-
income families in public housing.  The bills also would encourage the direct
involvement of public housing residents by employing these residents--
particularly elderly individuals--in the child care programs.


FAMILY WELFARE REFORM ACT OF 1987 (H.R. 1720)

Status:  Postponed floor debate indefinitely.


    The bill would replace the current Aid to Families with Dependent Children
(AFDC) with a new Family Support Program that emphasizes work, child support,
and needs--based family support supplements.  As approved by the committee,
H.R. 1720 would:

 - Require all states to include in the welfare program two-parent families in
   which both spouses are unemployed.

 - Require mothers with children three years of age or older to participate in
   the education, training, and work program, provided that child care
   assistance, medical coverage, and transportation are made available.

 - Increase by 25 percent the federal reimbursement to the states for any
   benefit increases made after September 1988, not to exceed 90 percent, in
   order to induce states to raise benefits.  The federal government now
   reimburses a state 50 to 78 percent of its benefits costs, with poor states
   receiving the higher match.  The federal government's national average
   contribution is 54 percent.

 - Require the federal government to pay 65 percent of the costs of the work
   and training programs.

 - Allow recipients to continue receiving child care assistance and Medicaid
   benefits for six months after working their way off welfare.

 - Disregard the first $100 of earnings plus 25 percent of remaining earnings
   for recipients who work but still have low incomes, beginning October 1,
   1988.


Catastrophic Health Care Bill

Status:  An amendment has been added to include Medicare coverage for
         preventive tests such as mammograms.
    The bill approved by the committee provided for broader coverage than
legislation approved by the House Ways & Means Committee in May which expands
only acute care coverage under Medicare.  Approval by the Energy & Commerce
Committee would add extra protections for Medicare beneficiaries--prescription
drug benefits, spousal impoverishment language, respite and adult day care
provisions and coverage of triennial breast cancer screening.


Fairness for Adopting Families Act, H.R. 3374/S. 1733

Status:  H.R. 3374 is in House Ways & Means Committee
         S. 1733 is awaiting action in Senate Finance Committee

Provisions:

    The Act would provide tax deductions for adopting families.  The bill would
provide a federal tax deduction of up to $5,000 for domestic adoptions and up
to $7,000 for foreign adoptions.




1987 Competitive Equality Banking Act

    The law is designed to speed up funds availability at the nation's
depository institutions.

    The act calls for a "permanent schedule for availability of funds" by
September 1, 1990.  The schedule would require no more than one business day
between deposit and availability on a local check and no more than four
business days on a non-local check.  A check is local if the bank on which it
is drawn and the bank in which it is deposited are located in the same Federal
Reserve check processing region.

    In general, the act mandates next-business-day availability for the full
amount of U.S. Treasury, state, certified, teller's, and cashier's checks, for
at least $100 of all other types of checks, and the full amount for non-check
deposits such as cash and wire transfer funds.

    Banks will be allowed to adjust gradually to the new requirements through a
temporary schedule, which may be in effect from September 1988 to September
1990.  According to this timetable, funds from local items should be available
after two days, and funds from non-local checks should be available after six
business days.
    This is the first federal legislation ever to impose specific time limits
on funds availability, and so it is not known exactly how the system will
affect consumers and banks,  Banks could, though, be exposed to more risk,
because they may have to pay out more funds before knowing if they are actually
collected.


ACT FOR BETTER CHILD CARE SERVICES (ABC), (H.R. 3660); (S. 1885)

Status:  Introduced on November 19, 1987.

Provisions:

    First comprehensive child care bill in 16 years.

    * Authorize $2.5 billion per year (with a 20% state match) to help states:
      (1) make child care more affordable for low- and moderate-income
      families; (2) improve the quality of child care available to all
      families; (3) increase the number of child care facilities and number of
      qualified daycare staff; and (4) coordinate child care resources to
      ensure their efficient use.

INFANT MORTALITY BILL, (H.R. 1326); (S. 1441)

Status:  Passed by voice vote in both House and Senate

Provisions:

    Creates a National Commission to prevent infant mortality.  The Commission
will hold a series of public meetings/hearings.  For information about
scheduled hearings write to:  National Commission to Prevent Infant Mortality,
Switzer Building, Room 2006, 330 C. Street NW, Washington, DC 20201.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Barnwell County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 427
                                  2229 Allen
                              Barnwell, SC  29812
                                (803) 259-3661

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Beaufort County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 459
                                600 Wilmington
                              Beaufort, SC  29901
                                (803) 525-7215

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Berkeley County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 566
                           Moncks Corner, SC  29461
                                (803) 761-8090

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Calhoun County Health Department
                            Lake Inspiration Circle
                            St. Matthews, SC  29135
                                (803) 874-2037

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Charleston County Health Department
                              334 Calhoun Street
                             Charleston, SC  29401
                                (803) 724-5800

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Cherokee County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 338
                                 400 S. Logan
                              Gaffney, SC  29342
                                (803) 487-2705

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Chester County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 741
                                   129 Wylie
                              Chester, SC  29706
                                (803) 385-6152

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                     Chesterfield County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 112
                                  Scotch Road
                            Chesterfield, SC  29709
                                (803) 623-2117

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Clarendon County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 729
                             21 E. Hospital Street
                              Manning, SC  29102

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Colleton County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 229
                                  126 Benson
                             Walterboro, SC  29488
                                (803) 549-1516

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Darlington County Health Department
                              349 Russell Street
                             Darlington, SC  29532
                                (803) 393-4511

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Dillon County Health Department
                                P. O. Box 1064
                             1st Avenue & Hampton
                               Dillon, SC  29536
                                (803) 774-5611

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Dorchester County Health Department
                               201 Gavin Street
                             St. George, SC  29477
                                (803) 821-1624

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Edgefield County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 526
                                300 Gray Street
                             Edgefield, SC  29824
                                (803) 637-3159

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Fairfield County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 270
                                  321 By-Pass
                             Winnsboro, SC  29180
                                (803) 635-6481

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Florence County Health Department
                                P. O. Box 3499
                                 1705 W. Evans
                              Florence, SC  29502
                                (803) 662-5281
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Georgetown County Health Department
                               303 Hazard Street
                             Georgetown, SC  29440
                                (803) 546-5593

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Greenville County Health Department
                                P. O. Box 2507
                             200 University Ridge
                             Greenville, SC  29602
                                (803) 240-8800

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Greenwood County Health Department
                              1118 Phoenix Street
                             Greenwood, SC  29646
                                (803) 223-8488

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Hampton County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 37
                                  Highway 278
                             Varnville, SC  29924
                                (803) 943-3878

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Horry County Health Department
                                P. O. Box 1206
                                  Elm Street
                               Conway, SC  29526
                                (803) 248-6381
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Jasper County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 220
                             113 E. Wilson Street
                             Ridgeland, SC  29936
                                (803) 726-8121
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Kershaw County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 340
                              1116 Church Street
                               Camden, SC  29020
                                (803) 432-1426

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Lancaster County Health Department
                                   Route 10
                                  Highway 10
                             Lancaster, SC  29720
                                (803) 286-9948

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Laurens County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 345
                               Catherine Street
                              Laurens, SC  29360
                                (803) 984-6587

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Lee County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 307
                                 108 E. Church
                            Bishopville, SC  29010
                                (803) 484-6612

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Lexington County Health Department
                             112 W. Hospital Drive
                           West Columbia, SC  29169
                                (803) 791-3580

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      McCormick County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 27
                              Main at Highway 28
                             McCormick, SC  29835
                                (803) 465-2511

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Marion County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 609
                          Highway 76, Beeson Building
                               Marion, SC  29571
                                (803) 423-4312

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Marlboro County Health Department
                          Parsonage Street Extension
                           Bennettsville, SC  29512
                                (803) 479-6801

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Newberry County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 269
                              Newberry, SC  29108
                                (803) 276-4155

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Oconee County Health Department
                               County Mail Room
                                 200 S. Broad
                              Walhalla, SC  29691
                                (803) 638-3639

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Orangeburg County Health Department
                                P. O. Box 1126
                                550 Carolina NE
                          Orangeburg, SC  29116-1126
                                (803) 536-9060

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Pickens County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 323
                                McDaniel Avenue
                              Pickens, SC  29671
                                (803) 878-7821

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Richland County Health Department
                               1221 Gregg Street
                              Columbia, SC  29201
                                (803) 748-4970

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Saluda County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 664
                                 405 W. Butler
                               Saluda, SC  29138
                                (803) 445-2141

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                     Spartanburg County Health Department
                                P. O. Box 4217
                                  151 E. Wood
                            Spartanburg, SC  29305
                                (803) 596-3337

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Sumter County Health Department
                                P. O. Box 1628
                                105 N. Magnolia
                               Sumter, SC  29150
                                (803) 773-5511

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Union County Health Department
                                   Drawer Q
                                Thompson Blvd.
                               Union, SC  29379
                                (803) 427-5604

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                     Williamsburg County Health Department
                             203 East Brook Street
                             Kingstree, SC  29556
                                (803) 354-9927

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         York County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 149
                              N. Congress Street
                                York, SC  29745
                                (803) 684-7004

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Abbeville County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 219
                               Church & Pinckney
                             Abbeville, SC  29620
                                (803) 459-2131



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Aiken County Health Department
                                P. O. Box 2269
                                828 W. Richland
                               Aiken, SC  29801
                                (803) 642-1687

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                      Allendale County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 386
                                415 N. Memorial
                             Allendale, SC  29810
                                (803) 584-3818

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Anderson County Health Department
                                P. O. Box 1906
                                220 McGee Road
                              Anderson, SC  29622
                                (803) 225-3731

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                       Bamberg County Health Department
                                 P. O. Box 360
                                Log Branch Road
                              Bamberg, SC  29003
                                (803) 245-5176

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS                           
-DOC-
                           COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENTS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

The majority of child health services are provided in health department 
clinics in each of the 46 counties.  Many counties have multiple clinic sites. 

The structure of clinics may vary widely from site to site, depending on the 
local need for specific services and the resources available.  To serve the 
public, clinic hours and appointment systems are maintained. 

Some services are provided in community based activities such as school health 
programs and child care and development centers. Other services including 
priority infant follow-up, lead toxicity investigations and SIDS (Sudden 
Infant Death Syndrome) counseling for parents require home visits. 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OVERVIEW OF DHEC SERVICES (GENERAL)                       
-DOC-
                      OVERVIEW OF DHEC SERVICES (GENERAL) 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

The Department of Health and Environmental Control (DHEC) is only one of many 
providers of a wide array of health related services for children, adolescents 
and youths in South Carolina.  In DHEC the services are administered through 
the Division of Children's Health within the Bureau of Maternal and Child 
Health.  There are both direct and indirect services. 

The two major direct service components are 1) preventive care, including 
medical screening, health assessments and immunizations for those who desire 
and need them, and 2) services for chronically ill and handicapped children 
who do not have medical and/or financial resources. 

The indirect services include maintaining standards of care and monitoring 
direct services for quality assurance; coordinating activities affecting the 
health of children with other community providers, agencies and organizations; 
and supporting direct services with a medical reference library and 
parent/child educational materials.  A committee of physicians advises 
management staff on children's health issues. 
Registries are maintained for lead toxicity and congenital syphilis, both 
reportable diseases; and for newborns screened for phenylketonuria (PKU) and 
hypothyroidism which are also mandated. Screening for sickle cell will be 
added in July, 1987.  Identified cases are tracked to assure appropriate 
follow-up. 

Efforts are made to assure that pregnant women at risk deliver in hospitals 
which provide an appropriate level of care for both the mother and infant and 
to identify and enroll high risk infants and low risk infants of high risk 
mothers in a system of health care provided by the health department, other 
community provider, or private physician to be tracked for at least one year. 
These efforts are statewide in scope and require a concerted cooperative 
effort with hospitals. 

Children's Health staff, especially trained social workers, are available to 
provide counseling services, education and referral to parents of infants that 
have died from Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS). 


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREVENTIVE CARE SERVICES - DHEC                        
-DOC-
                        PREVENTIVE CARE SERVICES - DHEC
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

WHAT ARE PREVENTIVE HEALTH SERVICES?

Preventive health services include health screenings, physical appraisals, 
immunizations and parent/child health education.  These services are provided 
to the "well child" population to assure their continued well being, to 
prevent the development of a serious illness and to detect a potentially 
handicapping problem at the earliest possible time. 

WHAT SPECIFIC SERVICES ARE PROVIDED?

The following services are provided at specified intervals and are called core 
services: 

      - complete head to toe physical appraisals which include laboratory
        tests, TB skin tests, vision and hearing screening and assessment
        for developmental delays;
      - a health history;
      - parent/child education and counseling on nutrition, safety, child
        care and other parenting topics;
      - immunization against a wide range of diseases;
      - referral when needed for diagnosis and treatment services.

These core services are the same as those required by the Health and Human 
Services Finance Commission (HHSFC) for Early and Periodic Screening, 
Diagnosis and Treatment (EPSDT).  DHEC, like private providers and others, 
contracts with HHSFC to provide the EPSDT services. 

A child's continuing need for further services is determined in
coordination with other providers in an effort to avoid duplication
of services. Referral and follow-up systems are established to
assure that gaps in care do not occur.

WHO PROVIDED THE SERVICES?

Health screening and assessment are normally provided by public health nurses 
in most clinics under standing orders of a physician. Clinic nurses may also 
treat certain conditions.  Other staff providing services will vary from 
clinic to clinic depending upon funding available and the type of clinic.  The 
staff may include physicians, nurse practitioners, nutritionists, health 
educators, oral health educators, social workers, lab technicians, and clerks 
who are essential to all clinics.  Nurse practitioners under standing orders 
of a physician can provide a higher level of treatment services than other 
nurses. Registered sanitarians assist with identifying and eradicating sources 
of pollution in the child's environment which cause such illnesses as 
parasites and lead toxicity.  All staff are expected to provide health 
promotion information appropriate for each visit.  The many multidisciplinary 
services are provided with the guidance of specific discipline consultants in 
central office who are responsible for setting standards of care, developing 
program manuals, and monitoring services accordingly. 

WHO IS ELIGIBLE FOR SERVICES?

Children, adolescents and youths from birth until their 21st birthday who need 
and desire health services are eligible. Contingent upon resources available 
from county to county, however, priorities may be placed on certain age 
groups. For example, children under 6 may receive a higher priority than older 
children since early health services may preclude problems later in life. The 
highest priority would be the at-risk infants in order to enhance their 
chances of survival and to maximize their chance for healthy development. 
At-risks infants are identified and scored on the basis of the
following parameters:

     Infant    -    Low birthweight (<2500 grams).
     Mother    -    Less than 18 years of age;
               -    Less than high school graduate;
               -    Less than 5 prenatal visits or prenatal care
                    started after 6th month of pregnancy;
               -    A previously live born child now dead.

HOW ARE PREVENTIVE CHILD HEALTH SERVICES FUNDED?

DHEC is the agency in South Carolina designated to receive Title V federal 
funds through the Maternal and Child Health Services Block Grant.  A portion 
of this grant is allocated for Children's Health to provide both direct and 
administrative services.  This portion is divided among central office and the 
15 health districts.  Each health district determines independently the 
portion which will be used for direct services.  Thus, preventive child health 
services are provided at no cost unless the recipient has established 
eligibility for other federal funds, such as Title XIX, known as Medicaid and 
administered by the HHSFC. 

Any Medicaid eligible client is eligible for EPSDT services.  In this case 
reimbursement is sought for screening which consists of the core services at 
specified intervals and optional tests when medically indicated.  Although all 
EPSDT screenings do not require identical services as some are optional, the 
screening is reimbursed at a uniform statewide encounter rate of $30.00.  In 
addition, the cost of vaccines for immunizations is reimbursed. 

From time to time, sources of additional funding are sought for special 
projects.  The most significant source is from the Bureau of Health Care 
Delivery Assistance for Special Projects of Regional and National Significance 
(SPRANS).  Thus, Children's Health has received a SPRANS grant to promote 
breast feeding.  The focus of the Breast Feeding Project is primarily to 
educate mothers about the healthful advantages of breast feeding their infants 
and get them to do so.  The project will require concerted coordination with 
hospitals. 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
REHABILITATION SERVICES                            
-DOC-
                            REHABILITATION SERVICES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

WHAT IS "CHILDREN'S REHABILITATION SERVICES" (CRS)?

CRS provides multidisciplinary diagnosis and treatment for physically 
handicapped and chronically ill children who have rehabilitative potential. 

WHERE ARE SERVICES PROVIDED?

Diagnosis and treatment are provided and/or arranged through twelve district 
clinics.  Children may be referred or seen in the offices of medical 
specialists associated with CRS.  Some children may need to go to a regional 
specialty clinic depending on their medical problems. 

WHAT SERVICES ARE PROVIDED?

     - clinic services, including evaluations
     - Orthopedic braces and rehabilitation equipment, hearing aids, etc.
     - Medicines, medical supplies, and special formulas
     - Speech therapy, physical therapy, occupational therapy, and
       recreational therapy
     - Summer camp at Camp Burnt Gin
     - Coordination of care
     - Other services when ordered by a CRS consultant which may include
       surgery and corrective or restorative dentistry and orthodontics
     
Applications for services, including camp, are made through the local health 
department.  Services which are purchased outside DHEC must be pre-authorized 
by the CRS clinic. 

WHO PROVIDES SERVICES?

Services are provided by full-time paid staff, including nurses, social 
workers, and nutritionists with essential clerical support. Physicians, 
dentists and other health professionals in private practice or on the staff of 
medical schools work under contract with DHEC to provide clinic services and 
see children on a consultant basis in their offices.  Physical therapists, 
occupational therapists, speech therapists, and audiologists also provide 
services under contract. 
WHAT MEDICAL CONDITIONS DOES CRS COVER?

     - Diseases of the bones and joints
     - Hearing disorders and aural pathologies
     - Congenital anomalies
     - Epilepsy
     - Rheumatic fever
     - Residuals of trauma (accidents, burns, and poisoning)
     - Cerebral palsy and other central nervous system disorders
     - Cystic fibrosis (children and adults)
     - Endocrine disorders
     - Hemophilia (children and adults)
     - Sickle Cell disorders (children and adults)
     - Developmental delays, such as speech/language, motor, and growth
       abnormalities
WHO IS ELIGIBLE FOR CRS?

Children from birth to their 18th birthday are eligible if the family income is 
200% or less of the federal poverty guidelines. There are some disorders for 
which children may be evaluated but may not be able to receive treatment 
through CRS.  Any physically handicapped child in the state 7-15 years old is 
eligible for consideration to attend Camp Burnt Gin; he or she does not have 
to be a CRS patient. 

Some adults may receive certain services through CRS:

     - Persons with hemophilia l8 years old and over with incomes below
       250% of the federal poverty guidelines can receive blood products
       and supplies at no cost to the patient; those with incomes above
       250% of the federal poverty guidelines can purchase blood products
       and supplies from the Program at the State contract cost.
     - Persons with sickle cell disease l8 years old and over with
       incomes below 200% of the federal poverty guidelines are eligible
       for limited services. Persons with cystic fibrosis 18 years old
       and over are eligible to submit bills for certain services related
       to the disease for possible medical financial assistance.

HOW IS CRS FUNDED?

A portion of the Title V Maternal and Child Health Services Block Grant is 
allocated for patient services; the State appropriates funds for patient 
services, Camp Burnt Gin, special formula for inborn metabolic disorders, 
blood products and supplies for hemophilia patients (including adults*), adult 
sickle cell disease* and adult cystic fibrosis.* 

Third party reimbursement is sought from private insurance; Medicaid is billed 
for eligible patients, including Medically Needy and SSI/DCP.  Private Pay 
patients are billed according to sliding fee scales based on federal poverty 
guidelines. 

*CRS administers appropriations for adults.
HOW ARE SERVICES AND COST ACCOUNTABILITY MONITORED?

A patient can be tracked for public health services provided anywhere in South 
Carolina through a computerized data system which integrates both the "well 
child" and CRS statewide caseloads.  The system provides data on patients 
served, services provided to each patient, and providers of services, thus 
enabling costs to be related to patients and services.  The system also 
provides for direct billing for third party reimbursement, including Medicaid, 
and private pay for CRS. 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMUNITY PROGRAMS                              
-DOC-
                              COMMUNITY PROGRAMS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Famility Life & Human Resources Specialist 

    Community programs supervised by qualified, professional staff members 
have been developed for citizens with mental retardation of every age and 
degree of impairment.

    I.  Children's Programs

        A.  Early Childhood Intervention Programs - Provide educational 
            intervention and therapy for infants with mental retardation or 
            who are at risk.  Training for parents is also provided through 
            this program to promote maximum development through activity in 
            the home.

        B.  Child Development Programs - Provide education, training and other 
            services to children with mental retardation under five years old.  
            The programs prepare children for entry into the public school 
            system, whenever possible, and encourage personal and social 
            adjustment.
        C.  Public Schools - As required in public law 94-142, educational and 
            vocational programs for citizens with mental retardation 5 to 21 
            years old are the responsibility of South Carolina's public school 
            system.  The S. C. Department of Mental Retardation often 
            cooperates with the Department of Education to provide support 
            services for these citizens.

   II.  Adult Programs - Serve persons with mental retardation over 21 years 
        old.  Work-oriented, skill-enhancing activities motivate each adult to 
        acquire vocational skills and perform work that aids in the production 
        of a product or produces a product.  Adults are evaluated periodically 
        to determine their vocational skill level and determine skills needed 
        for placement in competitive employment.  Ultimately, adults work 
        toward obtaining competitive employment at a salary equal to or above 
        minimum wage, realizing all benefits afforded to regular employees.

        A.  Adult Development Programs - Provide activities for adults unable 
            to participate in work activity programs.  The programs help 
            prepare citizens with mental retardation for entry into a work 
            activity program, when possible, and encourage overall social 
            adjustment for an independent, productive life.
  \$
        B.  Work Activity Programs - Emphasize training and performance of 
            productive work skills.  Emphasis is also placed on personal 
            adjustment, social adjustment and recreational activity.  Clients 
            are prepared for sheltered workshop programs, whenever possible.

        C.  Sheltered Workshop Programs - Provide clients with supervised 
            vocational training.  Workshop programs prepare persons with 
            mental retardation for sheltered or competitive employment, 
            whenever possible.  All sheltered workshops must maintain a 
            certificate with the Department of Labor designating them as 
            "regular work programs".  They must maintain all records required 
            of the Department of Labor.

        D.  Sheltered Employment Programs - Place clients on a job site with 
            supervision and vocational training to produce a product or 
            service.  Sheltered employment programs encourage social 
            adjustment for competitive employment and motivate persons with 
            mental retardation toward that goal.
        E.  Competitive Employment Programs - Allow citizens with mental 
            retardation to work on a job site independently with other 
            workers.  Competitive employment provides citizens with mental 
            retardation with a salary equal to or above minimum wage and all 
            benefits afforded to regular employees.  Follow-up services are 
            also provided, when needed, to help individuals maintain 
            employment.

        F.  Job Coach Programs - Allow persons with mental retardation to 
            acquire employment at their existing skill level, whatever that 
            skill level may be.  The programs cooperate with local private 
            industry councils and are funded through the Job Training 
            Partnership Act and the Department of Mental Retardataion.  A job 
            coach works with each person with mental retardation to teach the 
            skills necessary for employment.  The job coach also helps the 
            client develop job-related skills such as money management, 
            employee relations and management relations.  After training and 
            placement, the job coach provides long-term follow-up services 
            including counseling and retraining.
        G.  Enclave Programs - Train and supervise groups of six to eight 
            citizens with mental retardation to work in an industry or 
            business amoung non-handicapped workers.


        H.  Mobile Work Crews - Train groups of five to seven citizens with 
            mental retardation to work in the community performing services 
            such as yard and janitorial work.


                      Mental Retardation Support Services


    Support services provide leisure activities, respite care, family care, 
outreach, therapy and training services to citizens with mental retardation 
and their families.  Support services also include genetic research and mental 
retardation prevention for families who have a history of genetic disorder or 
mental retardation.

    I.  Outreach - Outreach social workers are responsible for coordinating 
        each client's service needs in the community.  In order to determine 
        the appropriateness of service, the outreach worker must monitor 
        progress and actively participate in planning for each client.

   II.  Summer Camp Services - Camps at a regional center or in the community 
        provide leisure activities for children and adults with mental 
        retardation.  Residential and day camp services are included in the 
        summer camp program.

  III.  Family Care Services - Provide financial support for families to care 
        for a relative with mental retardation and prevent 
        institutionalization.  The program is directed toward families who are 
        able to provide care for their disabled family member at home, but 
        cannot afford the cost of that specialized care.  The program is 
        limited to clients judged by the department to be at risk of being 
        institutionalized or clients on the waiting list for residential 
        services.  The program may also be utilized for clients who reside in 
        an institution, but can be deinstitutionalized if family support 
        services are provided.  Family care services include funds for 
        transportation, specialized equipment and architectural changes to 
        eliminate physical barriers from the home.  Case subsidies may also be 
        provided, in amounts not to exceed $150 per month, per client, for 
        services or treatment provided in accordance with client habilitation 
        plans.

   IV.  Supervised Living Subsidy - Two types of subsidies are available to 
        help capable persons with mental retardation establish and maintain a 
        residence of their own.

        A.  Placement Subsidies - Clients who have been approved for a 
            supervised living program and do not have resources to assist with 
            the cost of moving into the residence or have limited resources 
            may receive a subsidy.  The maximum amount of subsidy is $1,000.  
            Funds may be used for furniture, security deposits, utility 
            deposits, household supplies, specialized therapeutic equipment 
            and other approved purchases, fees or deposits.

        B.  Emergency Subsidies - Clients may qualify for an emergency subsidy 
            if they are at risk of being placed in a more restrictive 
            environment unless additional funds are provided.  Needs for 
            emergency assistance must be urgent and temporary, such as losing 
            a roommate or losing a job.

    V.  Respite Programs - Provide quality car for children and adults with 
        mental retardation while parents attend to an emergency situation or 
        take a much needed vacation.  Respite services may provide relief in 
        the home, through community day programs, in a community residence, in 
        a regional residential center or in a special respite care center.

  VI.  Home-Based and Center-Based Therapy Programs - Physical and 
        occupational therapy, speech correction and other approved therapies 
        are provided when generic services are not available in the community 
        on a regular basis.  Services are provided for citizens with mental 
        retardation in a day program or in the home and client eligibility 
        must be established through the diagnosis and evaluation process.

  VII.  Training and Counseling Services - Services to train and counsel 
        parents in problem solving, care and maintenance of citizens with 
        mental retardation are provided.

VIII.  Genetic Research and Counseling Programs - Genetic research and 
        counseling are provided through the S. C. Genetic Consortium, 
        particularly the Greenwood Genetic Center.

        A.  The S. C. Genetic Consortium - The Greenwood Genetic Center, the 
            University of South Carolina School of Medicine in Columbia and 
            the Medical University of South Carolina comprise the consortium.  
            Through the genetic consortium, the centers provide mutual 
            assistance in testing, patient evaluation, educational programming 
            and other endeavors.

        B.  The Greenwood Genetic Center - The center serves families who are 
            at risk of having a child born with genetic disease and families 
            in which a child has already been stricken with a birth defect or 
            handicapping condition.  In addition to its home-b ased clinic in 
            Greenwood, the center operated a satellite clinical system with 
            ten locations.  Clinical staff also travel throughout the state to 
            provide genetic services, patient evaluation, test interpretation 
            and counseling for parents and their families. 


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL PROGRAMS                        
-DOC-
                        COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL PROGRAMS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

    Community residential facilities allow citizens with mental retardation to 
live in the least restrictive environment possible.

    The facilities are licensed to meet standards of safety, sanitation and 
care.

    Residents attend public schools, work activity centers and other community 
programs.  Recreational activities and the completion of dail household tasks 
alsof emphasize the Principle of Normalization.

    The S. C. Department of Mental Retardation's community residential 
facilities include community residences, boarding homes, supervised 
apartments, alternate living programs and community training homes.
    I.  Community Residences - Provide 24-hour care and supervision for 
        citizens with mental retardation in facilitiers which resemble single-
        family homes.  Services include habilitation, counseling, recreation 
        and other activities in addition to residential needs.  Persons 
        admitted do not require 24-hour nursing services.  Adult residences 
        are licensed by the Department of Health and Environmental Control.  
        Children's residences are licensed by the Department of Social 
        Services.

   II.  Boarding Homes - Provide 24-hour room, board and supervision for 
        clients who can function with minimal assistance.  Specific programs 
        including counseling, recreation and on-the-job training are provided 
        to assist residents according to need.

        Supervised Apartment Living Programs - Place adults with mental 
        retardation in public or privately-owned housing.  Residents must have 
        demonstrated capability in community living, money management and 
        housekeeping skills.  They are competitively employed or attend day 
        programs.  Residents also receive follow-up services from staff 
        members in household management skills, budgeting, shopping, meal 
        preparation and other areas, when necessary.
        Alternate Living Programs - Provide supervision and support services 
        to adults who are capable of semi-independent and independent 
        community living.  Clients reside in apartments, private boarding 
        homes, public-assisted housing, duplexes and other approved housing.  
        Regularly scheduled client contacts are madfe to enhance the 
        development of daily living skills, household management, budgeting, 
        shopping habits, socialization skills and problem solving skills.

        Community Training Homes - Provide continuous 24-hour residential 
        services and specialized care to children and adults in the homes of 
        caregivers licensed or certified by the Department of Mental 
        Retardation.  The nature and extent of specialized services provided 
        by the caregiver is determined by the resident placed with the 
        caregiver.  Caregivers who complete training and qualify may provide 
        services for up to three clients in their private residence.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUPPORT SERVICES                               
-DOC-
                               SUPPORT SERVICES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 

    Support services provide leisure activities, respite care, family care, 
outreach, therapy and training services to citizens with mental retardation 
and their families.  Support services also include genetic research and mental 
retardation prevention for families who have a history of genetic disorder or 
mental retardation.

    I.  Outreach - Outreach social workers are responsible for coordinating 
        each client's service needs in the community.  In order to determine 
        the appropriateness of service, the outreach worker must monitor 
        progress and actively participate in planning for each client.

   II.  Summer Camp Services - Camps at a regional center or in the community 
        provide leisure activities for children and adults with mental 
        retardation.  Residential and day camp services are included in the 
        summer camp program.
  III.  Family Care Services - Provide financial support for families to care 
        for a relative with mental retardation and prevent 
        institutionalization.  The program is directed toward families who are 
        able to provide care for their disabled family member at home, but 
        cannot afford the cost of that specialized care.  The program is 
        limited to clients judged by the department to be at risk of being 
        institutionalized or clients on the waiting list for residential 
        services.  The program may also be utilized for clients who reside in 
        an institution, but can be deinstitutionalized if family support 
        services are provided.  Family care services include funds for 
        transportation, specialized equipment and architectural changes to 
        eliminate physical barriers from the home.  Case subsidies may also be 
        provided, in amounts not to exceed $150 per month, per client, for 
        services or treatment provided in accordance with client habilitation 
        plans.

   IV.  Supervised Living Subsidy - Two types of subsidies are available to 
        help capable persons with mental retardation establish and maintain a 
        residence of their own.
        A.  Placement Subsidies - Clients who have been approved for a 
            supervised living program and do not have resources to assist with 
            the cost of moving into the residence or have limited resources 
            may receive a subsidy.  The maximum amount of subsidy is $1,000.  
            Funds may be used for furniture, security deposits, utility 
            deposits, household supplies, specialized therapeutic equipment 
            and other approved purchases, fees or deposits.

        B.  Emergency Subsidies - Clients may qualify for an emergency subsidy 
            if they are at risk of being placed in a more restrictive 
            environment unless additional funds are provided.  Needs for 
            emergency assistance must be urgent and temporary, such as losing 
            a roommate or losing a job.

    V.  Respite Programs - Provide quality car for children and adults with 
        mental retardation while parents attend to an emergency situation or 
        take a much needed vacation.  Respite services may provide relief in 
        the home, through community day programs, in a community residence, in 
        a regional residential center or in a special respite care center.
   VI.  Home-Based and Center-Based Therapy Programs - Physical and 
        occupational therapy, speech correction and other approved therapies 
        are provided when generic services are not available in the community 
        on a regular basis.  Services are provided for citizens with mental 
        retardation in a day program or in the home and client eligibility 
        must be established through the diagnosis and evaluation process.

  VII.  Training and Counseling Services - Services to train and counsel 
        parents in problem solving, care and maintenance of citizens with 
        mental retardation are provided.

 VIII.  Genetic Research and Counseling Programs - Genetic research and 
        counseling are provided through the S. C. Genetic Consortium, 
        particularly the Greenwood Genetic Center.

        A.  The S. C. Genetic Consortium - The Greenwood Genetic Center, the 
            University of South Carolina School of Medicine in Columbia and 
            the Medical University of South Carolina comprise the consortium.  
            Through the genetic consortium, the centers provide mutual 
            assistance in testing, patient evaluation, educational programming 
            and other endeavors.
        B.  The Greenwood Genetic Center - The center serves families who are 
            at risk of having a child born with genetic disease and families 
            in which a child has already been stricken with a birth defect or 
            handicapping condition.  In addition to its home-b ased clinic in 
            Greenwood, the center operated a satellite clinical system with 
            ten locations.  Clinical staff also travel throughout the state to 
            provide genetic services, patient evaluation, test interpretation 
            and counseling for parents and their families. 


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     Administration Agency                           Services Provided
     ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
     Mr. J. Felton Burton                            Community Residence
     Executive Director
     Piedmont Multi-County MR Board
     P. O. Box 3004
     Greenwood, SC  29646
     223-4579
     Mr. Jeff May, Chairman






*Services provided in Saluda or Greenwood counties.





-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     Administration Agency                           Services Provided
     ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~

Mr. Richard Hurlbert                                 Summer Camp
Aiken County Association for Special Citizens
P. O. Box 295
Aiken, SC  29801

Ms. Pat Dantin                                       Adult Program
Executive Director                                   Alternate Living
Tri-Dev. Center of Aiken County                      Child Program
P. O. Box 698                                        Community Residence
623 Richland Avenue, West                            Competitive Employment
Aiken, SC  29802                                     Home Intervention
648-2769
State Vocational Rehab. Dept.                        Adult Program
P. O. Box 15                                         Competitive Employment
West Columbia, SC  29171
734-4320 (Tom Hadwin)
734-4300 (Joe Dusenbury)
                                                                   
                                                      
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     Administration Agency                           Services Provided
     ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
Mr. H. W. Wall, Chairman                             Child Program
Mr. Will Hiers, Program Director                     MR Board
Allendale County MR Board
Highway 301 South
P. O. Box 161
Allendale, SC  29810
584-3643 (Program)


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     Administration Agency                           Services Provided
     ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
Ms. Debbie Campbell                                  Adult Program
Executive Director                                   Alternate Living
Anderson County MR Board                             Child Program
P. O. Box 1022                                       Community Residence
Anderson, SC  29624                                  Early Intervention
225-4633                                             MR Board
                                                     Outreach
                                                     Respite
                                                     Summer Camp

State Vocational Rehab. Dept.                        Adult Program
P. O. Box 15                                         Competitive Employment
West Columbia, SC  29171
734-4320 (Tom Hadwin)
734-4300 (Joe Dusenbury)
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Administration Agency                           Services Provided
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~

Mr. Dave Mack, Executive Director               Adult Program
Bamberg County MR Board                         MR Board
P. O. Box 333
Denmark, SC  29042
793-3856
Ms. Sidney Wait, Chairperson
793-5003

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Administration Agency                           Services Provided
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
Dr. Ray Wade, Executive Director                Adult Program
Barnwell County MR Board                        Alternate Living
P. O. Box 556                                   Competitive Employment
Barnwell, SC  29812                             Community Residence
259-7161                                        Home Intervention
Mr. Ed Smith, Chairman                          MR Board
259-7472
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Administration Agency                           Services Provided
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
Ms. Sharon Spare                                Child Program
Program Director
Coastal Speech and Hearing Clinic
1514 Richmond Avenue
Port Royal, SC  29935
525-7404

Dr. Ellen Robertson                             Adult Program
Executive Director                              Early Intervention
St. Mary Human Developmental Ctr.               Summer Camp
Route 1, Box 177                                Home Mgmt. for Mothers
Ridgeland, SC  29936
726-3338
Mr. Leroy H. Gilliard                           Adult Program
Executive Director
Beaufort-Jasper EOC, Inc.
P. O. Drawer 9
Beaufort, SC  29901-009
524-4245

Mr. Donald R. Bateman                           Alternate Living
Chairman                                        MR Board
Beaufort County MR Board
Route 1, Box 127
Ridgeland, SC  29936
524-1133/Beaufort Office
726-8107/Jasper Office

Ms. Leigh Murphy                                MR Board
Executive Director
Beaufort County MR Board
P. O. Box 626
Beaufort, SC  29902
525-7468
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Administration Agency                           Services Provided
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
Ms. Pamela Dulude                               Adult Program
Program Director                                Alternate Living
Berkeley Citizens for the                       Child Program
   Retarded and Handicapped                     Competitive Employment
P. O. Box 425                                   Community Residence
Moncks Corner, SC  29461                        Early Intervention
761-8513                                        Outreach
                                                Respite
                                                Summer Camp

Ms. Pat Haddock                                 MR Board
Chairperson
Berkeley County MR Board
223 N. Live Oak Drive
Moncks Corner, SC  29461
761-8702 (Home)
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Administration Agency                           Services Provided
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
Ms. Leanne Johnston                             Adult Program
Executive Director                              Community Training Home
Calhoun County MR Board                         Competitive Employment
Route 1, Box 31                                 Community Residence
Cameron, SC  29030                              MR Board
823-2019                                        Summer Camp
Dr. B. M. Lawton, Jr., Chairman
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Administration Agency                           Services Provided
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
Ms. Susan Miller                                Adult Program
Director                                        Child Program
Hope Center for the Retarded
1821 Sam Rittenberg Road
Charleston, SC  29407
571-3035

Adult Retarded Citizens                         Community Residence
   Homes, Inc.
4 Carriage Lane, Suite 300-C
Charleston, SC  29417-1241
766-1311 or 766-1312
Dr. Lester Finuf                                Child Program
Charles Webb Center                             Early Intervention
325 Calhoun Street
Charleston, SC  29401
766-0112

Ms. Cathi Diggs                                 Child Program
Executive Director                              Early Intervention
Charles Webb Center
325 Calhoun Street
Charleston, SC  29401
723-7224

Ms. Enola Davis                                 Community Residence
Friendship House, Inc.
1333 Sherwood Avenue
Charleston, SC  29407
766-0112
Mr. Louis Pugh                                  Alternate Living
Executive Director                              Community Training Home
Charleston County MR Board                      MR Board
701 East Bay Street, Room 508                   Outreach
Charleston, SC  29403                           Respite
724-6788
Ms. Bonnie Koontz, Chairperson

Mr. Merrill Kinder                              Community Residence
Goodwill Industries of Lower SC                 Sheltered Work
915 Folly Road
P. O. Box 12469
Charleston, SC  29412
795-8280

Ms. Rosemarie Gregory-West                      Community Residence
(Peggy Drive - MR/MH)
P. O. Box 8059
Charleston, SC  29418-3799
552-9617
Ms. Francine Herne                              Summer Camp
City of Charleston
Department of Recreation
Hampton Park Office
Charleston, SC  29403
724-7332

Ms. Rosemarie Gregory-West                      Community Residence
Gregco, Inc. (Lambs Road)
4788 Lambs Road
Charleston, SC  29407
552-9617

Ms. Frances M. Roy                              Adult Program
Cooper River Park and                           Summer Camp
   Playground Commission
Box 10756


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Administration Agency                           Services Provided
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
Ms. Jane Waters                                 Summer Camp
President
Cherokee County ARC
P. O. Box 397
Gaffney, SC  29340
489-7043

Mr. Arthur Bridges                              Adult Program
Administrator                                   Child Program
Hab. Serv. of Cherokee Cty. Inc.                Community Residence
959 East O'Neal Street
Gaffney, SC  29340
489-1384
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Janet Duvall                                Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Child Program
       Chesterfield County MR Board                    Community Residence
       504 Hickory Street                              MR Board
       P. O. Box 6                                     Outreach
       Pageland, SC  29728                             Respite
       672-7905
       Mr. Adam Robertson, Chairman

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Debbie Mitchum                              Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Alternate Living
       Clarendon County MR Board                       Competitive Employment
       P. O. Box 159                                   Community Training Home
       Manning, SC  29102                              Early Intervention
       435-2330                                        ICF/MR Facility
       Ms. Helen Jones, Chairperson -                  MR Board
       (Comp. Emp. services provided
       through contract with Sumter
       County MR Board)
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Mr. & Mrs. Don McCaw                           Community Residence
       114 Bellinger Street
       Walterboro, SC  
       549-5909

       State Vocational Rehab. Dept.                   Adult Program
       P. O. Box 15
       West Columbia, SC  29171
       734-4320 (Tom Hadwin)
       734-4300 (Joe Dusenbury)
       Ms. Happy McLeod                                Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Child Program
       Colleton County MR Board                        MR Board
       119 Charles Street                              Summer Camp
       Walterboro, SC  29488
       549-1732
       Ms. Carol Hinson, Chairperson

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                              
-DOC-
                              PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Lou Scott                                   Adult Program
       Program Director                                Child Program
       Hartsville Area Council for the                 Competitive Employment
          Mentally Retarded, Inc.
       201 N. Damascus Church Road
       Hartsville, SC  29550
       332-7252

       Mr. Thorton Crouch                              MR Board
       Chairman, Darlington County
          MR Board
       606 West Home Avenue
       Hartsville, SC  29550
       332-5154
       Mr. Charles Howle                               Summer Camp
       Senior Warden
       St. Matthew's Episcopal Church
       P. O. Box 804
       Darlington, SC  29532
       393-4112
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Col. Albert Guess                               Adult Program
       Director
       Marion-Dillon Dev. Center
       P. O. Box 1082
       Marion, SC  29571
       423-5138
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Charlotte Holtry                            Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Child Program
       Association for Retarded Citizens               Early Intervention
          of Dorchester County                         Summer Camp
       P. O. Box 1317
       Summerville, SC  29484
       871-1285
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Mr. J. Felton Burton                            Adult Program
       Executive Director
       Piedmont Multi-County MR Board
       P. O. Box 3004
       Greenwood, SC  29646
       223-4579
       Mr. Jeff May, Chairman








*Services provided in Saluda or Greenwood counties.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Mr. Joe Cathcart                                Adult Program
       Chairman                                        Child Program
       Fairfield County MR Board                       MR Board
       204 Bratton Street
       Winnsboro, SC  29180
       635-4777
       Mr. Joe Stephenson, Prog. Dir.
       635-2154 (Program)

       Ms. Betty Duffie                                Community Residence
       Executive Director
       Babcock Center, Inc.
       P. O. Box 190
       Lexington, SC  290712
       359-9717
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       State Vocational Rehab. Dept.                   Adult Program
       P. O. Box 15
       West Columbia, SC  29171
       734-4320 (Tom Hadwin)
       734-4300 (Joe Dusenbury)

       Ms. Mary Kelly                                  Community Residence
       Palmetto Street Community Residence
       (Kelly Comm. Home Unit III)
       601 West Palmetto Street
       Florence, SC  29503
       667-1747
       Mr. Walter Sparrow                              Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Alternate Living
       Florence County MR Board                        Child Program
       P. O. Box 12810                                 Competitive Employment
       Florence, SC  29504                             Community Residence
       394-5707                                        Community Training Home
       Dr. Ira Canupp, Chairman                        Early Intervention
                                                       MR Board
                                                       Outreach
                                                       Respite
                                                       Summer Camp
                                                       Sheltered Work

       Mr. Paul Clark                                  Community Residence
       Country Manor Boarding Home
       P. O. Box 9
       Scranton, SC  29591

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Elizabeth Kilbourne                         Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Child Program
       Georgetown County MR Board                      Competitive Employment
       P. O. Box 1471                                  MR Board
       Georgetown, SC  29442                           Outreach
       546-8228
       Mr. Peter Hemingway, Chairman
       (Competitive Employment Services provided
       via contract with Horry County MR Board)
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Barbara Stone                               Adult Program
       Greenville Association for the                  Child Program
          Retarded                                     Competitive Employment
       P. O. Box 17007-B                               Community Residence
       Greenville, SC  29606                           Early Intervention
       288-1907                                        Outreach
                                                       Respite

       Ms. Barbara Stone                               Alternate Living
       Greenville County MR Commission                 Community Residence
       P. O. Box 17007-B                               MR Board
       Greenville, SC  29606                           Summer Camp
       288-2907
       Ms. Lynne T. Dawson, Chairman
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Mr. J. Felton Burton                            Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Alternate Living
       Piedmont Multi-County MR Board                  Child Program
       P. O. Box 3004                                  Community Residence
       Greenwood, SC  29646                            Early Intervention
       223-4579                                        MR Board
       Mr. Jeff May, Chairman                          Outreach
                                                       Respite
                                                       Summer Camp





*Services provided in Saluda or Greenwood counties.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Mr. Andy Anderson                               Adult Program
       Executive Director                              MR Board
       Hampton County MR Board
       P. O. Box 332
       Hampton, SC  29924
       943-3636
       Rev. Larry R. Parker, Chairman

      *Dr. Ellen Robertson                             Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Early Intervention
       St. Mary Human Dev. Center                      Summer Camp
       Route 1, Box 177                                Home Mgmt. for Mothers
       Ridgeland, SC  29936
       726-3338

*Services provided in Beaufort county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Evelyn Califf                               Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Competitive Employment
       Horry County MR Board                           Community Residence
       P. O. Box 1345                                  Community Training Home
       Conway, SC  29526                               MR Board
       248-7203                                        Outreach
       Mr. H. E. Rich, Chairman                        Respite

       State Vocational Rehab. Dept.                   Adult Program
       P. O. Box 15
       West Columbia, SC  29171
       734-4320 (Tom Hadwin)
       734-4300 (Joe Dusenbury)
       Ms. Theresa Koesterer                           Child Program
       Horry County School System                      Early Intervention
       P. O. Drawer 1739
       Conway, SC  29526
       248-2206, Ext. 279
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Mr. Cecil Collins                               MR Board
       Acting Chairman
       Jasper County MR Board
       P. O. Box 160
       Ridgeland, SC  29936

      *Dr. Ellen Robertson
       Executive Director
       St. Mary Human Dev. Center
       Route 1, Box 177
       Ridgeland, SC  29936
       726-3338
       Mr. Leroy H. Gilliard                           Adult Program
       Beaufort-Jasper EOC, Inc.
       P. O. Drawer 9
       Beaufort, SC  29902
       524-4245

*Services provided in Beaufort County
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Ann Moore                                   Adult Program
       Executive Director
       Kershaw County Activity Center
       Route 1, Box 264
       Camden, SC  29020
       432-4841

       Kershaw County Infant Stim. Center              Child Program
       c/o Kershaw County Activity Center
       Route 1, Box 264
       Lugoff, SC  29078
       Christy Music, Program Director
       425-4761
       Mr. Doyle Allen                                 Summer Camp
       Camden Kershaw County Rec. Dept.
       City Hall
       Camden, SC  29020
       432-4607

       Ms. Betty Duffie                                Community Residence
       Executive Director
       Babcock Center, Inc.
       P. O. Box 190
       Lexington, SC  29072
       359-9717

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Dr. Jackie Adams                                Child Program
       Lancaster Area Schools
       P. O. Box 130
       Lancaster, SC  29720
       286-6975

       State Vocational Rehab. Dept.                   Adult Program
       P. O. Box 15
       West Columbia, SC  29171
       734-4320 (Tom Hadwin)
       734-4300 (Joe Dusenbury)
       Ms. Lennie Mullis                               Adult Program
       Executive Director                              MR Board
       Lancaster County MR Board                       Outreach
       Route 10, Box 163                               Respite
       Lancaster, SC  29720
       285-4368
       Ms. Betsy Rushing, Chairperson
       285-4557

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Mr. Von Sinclair                                Summer Camp
       Executive Director
       Laurens County ARC
       P. O. Box 146
       Clinton, SC  29325
       682-2314

       Mr. Von Sinclair                                Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Alternate Living
       Laurens County MR Board                         Community Residence
       P. O. Box 146                                   Early Intervention
       Clinton, SC  29325                              MR Board
       682-2314
       Mr. Felton Roper, Jr., Chairman
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Ruby Gibbs                                  Adult Program
       Executive Director                              MR Board
       Lee County MR Board                             Outreach
       P. O. Box 264                                   Summer Camp
       Bishopville, SC  29010
       484-9473/9474
       Mr. Maceo Montgomery, Chairman
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Betty Duffie                                Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Alternate Living
       Babcock Center, Inc.                            Child
       P. O. Box 190                                   Competitive Employment
       Lexington, SC  29072                            Community Residence
       359-9717                                        Community Training Home
       (Summer vocational services provided            Early Intervention
       through contract with Richland School           Summer Camp
       District II)

       Mr. John Boozer, Director                       Summer Camp
       Lexington County Recreation Comm.
       Room 207 - Community Building
       Lexington, SC  29072
       359-3371
       Ms. Betty Duffie                                MR Board
       Executive Director                              Outreach
       Rich/Lex County MR Board                        Respite
       P. O. Box 3817                                  Summer
       Columbia, SC  29230
       359-9717
       Ms. Beth Tuck, Chairperson


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
      *Mr. J. Felton Burton
       Executive Director
       Piedmont Multi-County MR Board
       P. O. Box 3004
       Greenwood, SC  29646
       223-4579
       Mr. Jeff May, Chairman







*Services provided in Saluda or Greenwood counties.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Col. Albert Guess                               Adult Program
       Acting Director
       Marion-Dillon Dev. Center
       P. O. Box 1082
       Marion, SC  29571
       423-5138
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Carrie Turner                               Adult Program
       Program Director
       Chesterfield-Marlboro EOC
       P. O. Box 866
       Cheraw, SC  29520
       Program:  523-6221  EOC:  537-5256

       Mrs. Joan Adams                                 Summer Camp
       Marlboro County ARC
       P. O. Box 36
       Clio, SC  29525
       586-2256
       Ms. Joan Johnakin                               MR Board
       Marlboro County MR Board
       P. O. Box 1201
       Bennettsville, SC  29512
       479-7181
     
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Debbie Turner                               Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Child Program
       Newberry County MR Board                        Early Intervention
       67 Park Place                                   MR Board
       Newberry, SC  29108                             Summer Camp
       276-9691
       Ms. Elizabeth Hunter, Chairperson
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Vicki Neely                                 Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Alternate Living
       Oconee County MR Board                          Competitive Employment
       Route 8, Box 2                                  Community Residence
       Seneca, SC  29678                               Early Intervention
       882-0214 - Res. 882-3143                        MR Board
       Mr. Norb Rubin, Chairman                        Outreach
                                                       Respite

       Mr. Buddy Herring                               Summer Camp
       Oconee County School District
       Division of Special Services
       P. O. Box 220
       Walhalla, SC  29691
       638-5486 Ext. 40
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Ms. Dorothy Hartzog                             Adult Program
       Program Director                                Alternate Living
       Orangeburg ARC, Inc.                            Child Program
       P. O. Box 1812                                  Competitive Employment
       Orangeburg, SC  29115                           Community Residence
       536-1170                                        Community Training Home
                                                       Early Intervention
                                                       Home Intervention
                                                       Summer Camp

       State Vocational Rehab. Dept.                   Adult Program
       P. O. Box 15
       West Columbia, SC  29171
       734-4320 (Tom Hadwin)
       734-4300 (Joe Dusenbury)

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Mr. Jim Gaines                                  Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Alternate Living
       Pickens County MR Board                         Community Residence
       109 East Main Street                            Early Intervention
       Easley, SC  29640                               MR Board
       859-5416                                        Outreach
       Mr. Bruce Hair, Chairman                        Respite
                                                       Sheltered Work

       Mr. Bruce Hair                                  MR Board
       Chairman
       Pickens County MR Board
       109 East Main Street
       Easley, SC  29640
       859-5416
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Mr. Charles Hutchins                            Summer Camp
       Executive Director
       Epworth Children's Home
       2900 Millwood Avenue
       Columbia, SC  29072
       359-3371

       Ms. Betty Duffie                                Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Alternate Living
       Babcock Center, Inc.                            Child Program
       P. O. Box 190                                   Competitive Employment
       Lexington, SC  29072                            Community Residence
       359-9717                                        Community Training Home
                                                       Early Intervention
       Mr. Michael Harlan                              Summer Camp
       Director of Parks and Recreation
       Richland County Recreation Commission
       5819 Shakespeare Road
       Columbia, SC  29204
       754-5111

       Ms. Betty Duffie                                MR Board
       Executive Director                              Outreach
       Rich/Lex County MR Board                        Respite
       P. O. Box 3817
       Columbia, SC  29230
       359-9717
       Ms. Beth Tuck, Chairperson

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
      *Mr. J. Felton Burton                            Adult Program
       Executive Director
       Piedmont Multi-County MR Board
       P. O. Box 3004
       Greenwood, SC  29646
       223-4579
       Mr. Jeff May, Chairman








*Services provided in Saluda or Greenwood counties
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Mr. Jack Cannon                                 Community Residence
       Cannon Manor Boarding Home
       P. O. Box 5348
       Spartanburg, SC  29304
       585-3962

       Dr. Gloria Close                                MR Board
       Chairperson
       Spartanburg County MR Board
       142 S. Dean Street
       Spartanburg, SC  29301
       Mr. Glenn Brumfield                             Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Alternate Living
       The Charles Lea Center                          Child Program
       195 Burdette Street                             Community Residence
       Spartanburg, SC  29302                          Community Training Home
       585-0322                                        Early Intervention
                                                       Outreach
                                                       Respite
                                                       Summer Camp
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       State Vocational Rehab. Dept.                   Adult Program
       P. O. Box 15
       West Columbia, SC  29171
       734-4320 (Tom Hadwin)
       734-4300 (Joe Dusenbury)

       Mr. William Gardenhire                          Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Child Program
       Sumter County MR Board                          Competitive Employment
       102 N. Main Street                              Community Residence
       Sumter, SC  29150                               Community Training Home
       778-1669                                        MR Board
       Ms. Margaret Veronesi, Chairperson              Outreach
                                                       Respite
                                                       Summer Camp
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Mr. Pearson Cooper                              Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Early Intervention
       Union County MR Board                           MR Board
       814 W. South Boulevard
       Union, SC  29379
       Center:  427-7651
       Mrs. Catherine Williamson, Chairman
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Rep. B. J. Gordon                               Adult Program
       Attn:  Dottie Evans
       Gordon Dev. Disabilities Center
       P. O. Box 200
       Lane, SC  29564
       387-5609
       387-6097
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRIVATE PROVIDERS                               
-DOC-
                               PRIVATE PROVIDERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Administration Agency                           Services Provided
       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~                           ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
       Mr. Danny Hinson                                Adult Program
       Executive Director                              Competitive Employment
       York County MR/DD Board                         Community Residence
       P. O. Box 10820                                 Early Intervention
       Rock Hill, SC  29733                            Home Intervention
       324-5161                                        MR Board
       Ms. Verlayne Humphries, Chairman                Summer Camp

       State Vocational Rehab. Dept.                   Adult Program
       P. O. Box 15
       West Columbia, SC  29171
       734-4320 (Tom Hadwin)
       734-4300 (Joe Dusenbury)
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DEAF AND BLIND                                
-DOC-
                                DEAF AND BLIND
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

The South Carolina School for the Deaf and Blind is located in Cedar Spring 
Station, Spartanburg, SC, 29302.  Phone - (803)585-7711.  The major purpose of 
the school is to provide comprehensive educational services of sufficient 
scope and quality to assure the optimum educational, emotional, social and 
physical development of each deaf, blind and multihandicapped student 
enrolled.  A person between the ages of 4 and 21 having the handicaps of 
deafness or blindness or a combination of the two hendicapping conditions is 
eligible.

The South Carolina Parent Infant Program for the Multihandicapped Sensory 
Impaired provides a weekly home intervention program for children under 4.  
It's purpose is to help parents and the family know how to facilitate the 
development of their handicapped child.  To make a referral or for more 
information contact:
                        Insite Coordinator
                        S. C. Parent Infant Program
                        S. C. School for the Deaf
                        Spartanburg, SC  29302
                        Phone:  (803)585-7711, Ext. 230
The S. C. Parent/Infant Program is a comprehensive model that provides 
audiological, diagnostic and assessment services and a complete home 
intervention curriculum for hearing impaired children (birth - age four) and 
their families.  This program is available in 44 counties.  For referral or 
for more information contact:

                        S. C. Parent/Infant Hearing Program
                        S. C. School for the Deaf
                        Cedar Spring Station
                        Spartanburg, SC  29302
                        Phone:  (803) 585-7711

For more information contact the South Carolina Handicapped Services 
Information System at 1-800-922-1107 or in Columbia at 803-777-5732.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Program Assistance Line (PAL)                         
-DOC-
                         Program Assistance Line (PAL)
      Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life and Human Development Spec.

    PAL is the statewide information and referral service, established in 1979
under the Lieutenant Governor.  It was set up to help people find the state
agency to best meet their needs.  Housing assistance for the poor and elderly,
job training, health and counseling services for pregnant teens are examples of
the kinds of information available.  A data base on license requirements and
sources of technical assistance for persons starting a small business has
recently been added.  To access PAL call 1-800-922-2221.  From columbia you may
call 734-2050,734-2072, or 734-1864.  If you forget the numbers, the "800"
number is listed in the front of every telephone book in South Carolina.


Source:

    Maria Romero, Director
    PAL
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
National Dropout Prevention Center                      
-DOC-
                      National Dropout Prevention Center
      Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life and Human Development Spec.

The National Dropout Prevention Center, housed at Clemson University, includes:

    1. A clearinghouse of information on dropouts which will include abstracts,
         bibliographic references, and statistical data available through 
         computer network and in print.

    2. a directory of key contact persons in agencies, organizations, school
         systems, and associations dealing with the dropout problem.

    3. A consulting/intervention/assistance network composed of experts
         throughout the country.

    4. Conferences and programs for sharing information, discussing trends,
         identifying research needs and developing policy recommendations.

    5. Sponsorship and support of coordinated research needs and developing
         policy recommendations.
    

    6. Regularly scheduled publications such as journals, summaries of
         research studies, and reviews of
programs.

    7. An "800" telephone referral telephone line for individuals and groups
         needing assistance or information about
dropout issues.

For further information write:

    National Dropout Prevention Center
    Clemson University
    Clemson, South Carolina  29634-0725

    phone: 803-656-2599

    
    
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
South Carolina Children's Advocacy Center                   
-DOC-
                   South Carolina Children's Advocacy Center
   Emily s. Wiggins, Extension Family Life and Human Development Specialist

    The South Carolina Children's Advocacy Center was established in 1987.  It
is a private non-profit organization working to improve the welfare of south
Carolina's children by focusing public attention on their needs and advocating
polices and programs in the public and private sectors which address those
needs.  The Advocacy Center is led by a board of directors from around the
state working with a part time director.  Persons interested in the work of the
center  should write  SC Children's Advocacy Center, Post Office Box 11243,
Columbia, SC  29211 or call 799-4122.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PUBLIC RESIDENTIAL FACILITIES                         
-DOC-
                         PUBLIC RESIDENTIAL FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Coastal Regional Center
                        Jamison Road
                        Ladson, SC  29456
                        873-5750
                        Erbert F. Cicenia, Ed. D., Superintendent
                        Belva Kennedy, Admissions Officer

Coastal Regional Center serves residents of Dorchester, Berkeley, Charleston,
Beaufort, Jasper, Hampton and Colleton counties.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PUBLIC RESIDENTIAL FACILITIES                         
-DOC-
                         PUBLIC RESIDENTIAL FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Pee Dee Regional Center
                        P. O. Box 3209
                        Florence, SC  29502
                        669-3661
                        Gabriel J. Batarseh, Ph. D., Superintendent
                        Jackie Dargan, Admissions Officer

Pee Dee Regional Center serves residents of Chesterfield, Clarendon, 
Darlington, Dillon, Florence, Georgetown, Horry, Lancaster, Lee, Marion, 
Marlboro, Sumter and Williamsburg counties.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PUBLIC RESIDENTIAL FACILITIES                         
-DOC-
                         PUBLIC RESIDENTIAL FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Midlands Regional Center
                        8301 Farrow Road
                        Columbia, SC  29203
                        737-7500
                        Ronald C. Abbott, Ed. D., Superintendent
                        Carolyn Cayruth, Admissions Officer

Midlands Regional Center serves residents of Aiken, Allendale, Bamberg, 
Barnwell, Calhoun, Fairfield, Kershaw, Lexington, Orangeburg and Richland 
counties.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PUBLIC RESIDENTIAL FACILITIES                         
-DOC-
                         PUBLIC RESIDENTIAL FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Whitten Center
                        P. O. Drawer 239
                        Clinton, SC  29325
                        833-2733
                        Charles J. Chadwell, Ph. D., Superintendent
                        Hilda Carter, Admissions Officer

Whitten Center, the Piedmont regional center, serves residents of Abbeville, 
Anderson, Cherokee, Chester, Edgefield, Greenville, Greenwood, Laurens, 
McCormick, Newberry, Oconee, Pickens, Saluda, Spartanburg, Union and York 
counties.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - CRAFT SUPPLIES - ALLENDALE COUNTY               
-DOC-
               ACCESSORIES - CRAFT SUPPLIES - ALLENDALE COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Accessories
Type of Resource:      Contact Person:  Clark Famuliner     Phone:  584-3981
Name:  Route 1, Allendale-Hwy 301 South, Allendale, SC  29810
Comment:  Bric-a-brac, pottery
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - FLOORS - UNION COUNTY                      
-DOC-
                      INTERIORS - FLOORS - UNION COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail    Contact Person: Billy Griffith    Phone: 427-1268
Name:Triangle Floor Coverings, Inc., Golden Triangle, PO Box 748, Union, SC
Comment:  Floor coverings, paint

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail    Contact Person:                  Phone:  427-3626
Name:  Sherwin-Williams Co., 219 S. Gadberry St., Union, SC  29379
Comment:  Floor coverings, paint

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource:Retail Contact Person:Franklin & Freida Fuller Phone:427-6106
Name: Ben's Paint & Carpet Shop, 235 N. Gadberry St., Union, SC  29379
Comment:  Floor coverings
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - WALL TREATMENTS - UNION COUNTY                 
-DOC-
                 INTERIORS - WALL TREATMENTS - UNION COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail    Contact Person: Billy Griffith    Phone: 427-1268
Name:Triangle Floor Coverings, Inc., Golden Triangle, PO Box 748, Union, SC
Comment:  Wall coverings, paint

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail    Contact Person:                  Phone:  427-3626
Name:  Sherwin-Williams Co., 219 S. Gadberry St., Union, SC  29379
Comment:  Wall coverings, paint

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource:Retail Contact Person:Franklin & Freida Fuller Phone:427-6106
Name: Ben's Paint & Carpet Shop, 235 N. Gadberry St., Union, SC  29379
Comment:  Wall coverings, paint
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - FABRICS - UNION COUNTY                     
-DOC-
                     INTERIORS - FABRICS - UNION COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Outlet     Contact Person:                  Phone:  427-6221
Name:  Carlisle Finishing Plant, Carlisle, SC  29031
Comment:  Upholstery, drapery fabric
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - GENERAL ITEMS - UNION COUNTY                 
-DOC-
                 ACCESSORIES - GENERAL ITEMS - UNION COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Accessories
Type of Resource:        Contact Person:  Bill McCall     Phone:  427-8781
Name:  McCall's Frame Shop, Rt 4, Pineland Rd, Union, SC  29379
Comment:  Custom Framing
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - CRAFT SUPPLIES - CALHOUN COUNTY                
-DOC-
                ACCESSORIES - CRAFT SUPPLIES - CALHOUN COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Crafts
Type of Resource:       Contact Person:  Ms. Jack Kailger   Phone:  655-5957
Name:  Country Kuzins, Hwy 6 Rt. 1, Swansea, SC
Comment:  Craft supplies and gifts

Resource:  Crafts
Type of Resource:       Contact Person:  Mrs. Delane Cochran  Phone:  874-3593
Name:  Displayed at Bazard's Florist, Rt 2 Box 348A, St. Matthews, SC  29135
Comment:  Crafts (wood)
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - LAMPS - LANCASTER COUNTY                   
-DOC-
                   ACCESSORIES - LAMPS - LANCASTER COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Home Furnishings
Type of Resource:       Contact Person:  Ray Byrd  Phone:  285-9481
Name:  Belk Department Store, Lancaster Square, Lancaster, SC
Comment:  Linens, lamps, pictures
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - CRAFT PERSONS - LANCASTER COUNTY               
-DOC-
               ACCESSORIES - CRAFT PERSONS - LANCASTER COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Upholstery
Type of Resource:     Contact Person:  Mrs. Faulkenberry  Phone:  285-5626
Name:  Faulkenberry's Upholstery, Jones Cross Rds., Lancaster, SC
Comment:  Quality upholstery
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - GENERAL ITEMS - LANCASTER COUNTY               
-DOC-
               ACCESSORIES - GENERAL ITEMS - LANCASTER COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Home Furnishings
Type of Resource:       Contact Person:  Ray Byrd  Phone:  285-9481
Name:  Belk Department Store, Lancaster Square, Lancaster, SC
Comment:  Linens, lamps, pictures

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEDDING - LINENS - LANCASTER COUNTY                     
-DOC-
                     BEDDING - LINENS - LANCASTER COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Home Furnishings
Type of Resource:       Contact Person:  Ray Byrd  Phone:  285-9481
Name:  Belk Department Store, Lancaster Square, Lancaster, SC
Comment:  Linens, lamps, pictures
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - DECORATING SERVICES - LANCASTER COUNTY             
-DOC-
             INTERIORS - DECORATING SERVICES - LANCASTER COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Home Building
Type of Resource:       Contact Person:  C. D. Gregory, Jr.  Phone:  283-8481
Name:  Builders Supply, French Street, Lancaster, SC
Comment:  Building and home decorating
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FURNITURE - DISCOUNT, OUTLET, AND USED - LANCASTER COUNTY          
-DOC-
          FURNITURE - DISCOUNT, OUTLET, AND USED - LANCASTER COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Furniture
Type of Resource:       Contact Person:  Sarah Myers    Phone:  286-7161
Name:  Badcock Home Furnishings, 1106 W Meeting St., Lancaster, SC
Comment:  Furniture-all kinds

Resource:  Home Furnishings
Type of Resource:  Discount  Contact Person:  Sales Clerks    Phone:  286-2491
Name:  Springs Employee Sales Store, Hwy 9, Lancaster, SC
Comment:  

Resource:  Furniture
Type of Resource:          Contact Person:  Mr. Hendrix      Phone:  285-5006
Name:  Hendrix Furniture, Great Falls Road, Lancaster, SC
Comment:  Furniture (all kinds)

Resource:  Furniture
Type of Resource:          Contact Person: Bernie Travillian  Phone:  285-7469
Name:  Heilig Myers Furniture, 1002 N Main St., Lancaster
Comment:  Furniture (all kinds)
Resource:  Furniture
Type of Resource:          Contact Person:  Charles Berry     Phone:  285-4555
Name:  Berry's Furniture, Hwy 9 By Pass, Lancaster, SC
Comment:  Furniture (all kinds)
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - LIGHT FIXTURES AND FANS - LANCASTER COUNTY           
-DOC-
           INTERIORS - LIGHT FIXTURES AND FANS - LANCASTER COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Lighting Fixtures
Type of Resource:     Contact Person:  Mr. Harper    Phone:  283-3849
Name:  Harper Electric, Hubbard Dr. Extension, Lancaster, SC
Comment:  Electrical contracting and repairs
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - FLOORS - LANCASTER COUNTY                    
-DOC-
                    INTERIORS - FLOORS - LANCASTER COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Flooring
Type of Resource:      Contact Person:  Ken Belk     Phone:  283-4963
Name:  Cooper Furniture, 311 South Main, Lancaster, SC
Comment:  Flooring

Resource:  Home Building
Type of Resource:      Contact Person:  Tommy Morgan   Phone:  286-9904
Name:  Lancaster Paint Center, 830 S. Main Street, Lancaster, SC
Comment:  Carpet
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - WALL TREATMENTS - LANCASTER COUNTY               
-DOC-
               INTERIORS - WALL TREATMENTS - LANCASTER COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Home Building
Type of Resource:       Contact Person:  Tommy Morgan   Phone:  286-9904
Name:  Lancaster Paint Center, 830 S. Main Street, Lancaster, SC
Comment:  Wallpaper, paint

Resource:  Home Decorating
Type of Resource:      Contact Person:  Tommy Morgan    Phone:  286-8666
Name:  Wallpaper & Decorating Shop, 311 Dunlap Street, Lancaster, SC
Comment:  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FURNITURE - DISCOUNT, OUTLET, AND USED - JASPER COUNTY           
-DOC-
           FURNITURE - DISCOUNT, OUTLET, AND USED - JASPER COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Furniture
Type of Resource:Fur. Store  Contact Person: Mr. Ervin Greene  Phone:726-5644
Name:  Farena Furniture, PO Box 716, Ridgeland, SC  29936
Comment:  Furniture, accessories, floor coverings

Resource:  Furniture
Type of Resource: Retail   Contact Person:            Phone:  427-2466
Name:  Parker Furniture, Duncan By Pass, Union, SC  29379
Comment:  

Resource:  Furniture
Type of Resource:  Retail  Contact Person:  Glen Ivey    Phone:  427-5486
Name:  Ivey's Furniture, Hwy 49E, Rt. 5, Union, SC  29379
Comment:

Resource:  Furniture
Type of Resource: Retail   Contact Person: Larry Bowman    Phone:  427-0388
Name:  Heilig-Meyers, Union Plaza-Duncan By Pass, PO Box 248, Union, SC 29379
Comment:
Resource:  Furniture
Type of Resource: Retail   Contact Person: Roger Wade      Phone:  427-1212
Name:  Union Furniture Mart, 204 S Gadberry St, Union, SC  29379
Comment:

Resource:  Furniture
Type of Resource: Retail   Contact Person:                 Phone:  427-7642
Name:  Kimbrell's Furniture Co., 300 E. Main St., Union, SC  29379
Comment:

Resource:  Furniture
Type of Resource: Retail   Contact Person:  Lee Boggs      Phone:  427-1255
Name:  Cooper Furniture Co., 303 E. Main St., Union, SC  29379
Comment:  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - CRAFT SUPPLIES - JASPER COUNTY                
-DOC-
                ACCESSORIES - CRAFT SUPPLIES - JASPER COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Accessories
Type of Resource:     Contact Person:  Grace Bayles       Phone:  726-3793
Name:  G&G Fabrics, Rt 4 Box 179, Ridgeland, SC  29936
Comment:  Fabrics and craft supplies
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - GENERAL ITEMS - CHEROKEE COUNTY                
-DOC-
                ACCESSORIES - GENERAL ITEMS - CHEROKEE COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  General Items
Type of Resource:  Retail   Contact Person:                Phone: 489-4336
Name:  Bearfooting Crafts, 2119 Cherokee Avenue, Gaffney, SC
Comment:  Open Thursday, Friday, Saturday 10:00-6:00

Resource:  General Items
Type of Resource:  Retail  Contact Person: Will Hartzog    Phone: 489-2244
Name:  Hartzog's, 400 N Limestone Street, Gaffney, SC
Comment: Brass, pewter, porcelain

Resource:  General Items
Type of Resource:  Retail  Contact Person:  Betty Agnew    Phone:  489-4176
Name:  J&B Crafts, 913 E Frederick St., Gaffney
Comment:  Hand painted items
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - CRAFT SUPPLIES - CHEROKEE COUNTY               
-DOC-
               ACCESSORIES - CRAFT SUPPLIES - CHEROKEE COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Accessories
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person: Betty Agnew  Phone: 489-4176
Name: J&B Crafts, 913 E. Frederick Street, Gaffney, SC
Comment:Craft supplies, finished items/sale, art & painting classes available

Resource:  Accessories
Type of Resource: Retail  Contact Person:              Phone:  489-1640
Name:  House of Gerri-Ho, 305 15th Street, Gaffney, SC
Comment: Ceramics, macrame supplies, free classes
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - FLOORS - CHEROKEE COUNTY                    
-DOC-
                    INTERIORS - FLOORS - CHEROKEE COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource: Retail   Contact Person:           Phone:  489-4439
Name:Rainbow Inter. Carpet Dyeing & Cleaning Co., 501 1/2 W. Limestone St.
Comment: Carpets tinted and dyed, oriental rugs, furniture cleaning
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ACCESSORIES - CRAFT PERSONS - CHEROKEE COUNTY                
-DOC-
                ACCESSORIES - CRAFT PERSONS - CHEROKEE COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Accessories
Type of Resource: Retail   Contact Person:  Betty Agnew  Phone:  489-4176
Name:  J&B Crafts, 913 E. Frederick Street, Gaffney, SC
Comment:  Arts, craft lessons, painting
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERIORS - WALL TREATMENTS - CHEROKEE COUNTY                
-DOC-
                INTERIORS - WALL TREATMENTS - CHEROKEE COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Interiors
Type of Resource:          Contact Person:Janice Richardson & Denise Gregory 
Name:D&J Wallpapering            Phone:  487-5578
Comment:Experienced wallpaper hangers
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TABLE APPOINTMENTS - LINENS - CHEROKEE COUNTY                
-DOC-
                TABLE APPOINTMENTS - LINENS - CHEROKEE COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Table appointments
Type of Resource: Retail   Contact Person: Will Hartzog    Phone: 489-2244
Name:  Hartzog's, 400 N Limestone Street, Gaffney, SC
Comment:  Mats, napkins, hand towels, aprons
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TABLE APPOINTMENTS - LINENS - CHEROKEE COUNTY                
-DOC-
                TABLE APPOINTMENTS - LINENS - CHEROKEE COUNTY
            Karen C. Miller, Extension Interior Design Specialist

Resource:  Table appointments
Type of Resource: Retail   Contact Person: Will Hartzog    Phone: 489-2244
Name:  Hartzog's, 400 N Limestone Street, Gaffney, SC
Comment:  Mats, napkins, hand towels, aprons
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
1987 FIRST GENERATION TIP MOTH EMERGENCE                   
-DOC-
                   1987 FIRST GENERATION TIP MOTH EMERGENCE
                         D. L. Ham, Extension Forester

        The following emergence dates have either been reported to the 
    Extension Forestry office or been estimated from past and present 
    trapping data.  Perhaps this information will help growers who did not 
    place traps in their fields for the first tip moth generation.  
    Remember, the dates listed are to be used to begin accumulating degree 
    days.  Growers in Zones 1 - 6 should spray Pydrin or Orthene after 
    accumulating 300 degree days or Cygon or Orthene at 474 degree days.  
    Growers in Zones 7 & 8 should spray Pydrin/Dimilin at 285 or 
    Cygon/Orthene at 439 degree days. 

                    ZONE            EMERGENCE DATE
                     1                 2/24/87
                     2                 2/25/87
                     3                 3/1/87
                     4                 3/7/87
                     5                 3/10/87
                     6                 3/14/87
                     7                 4/1/87
                     8                 4/3/87
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CAMPING DATES FOR COUNTIES (N - R)                      
-DOC-
                      CAMPING DATES FOR COUNTIES (N - R)
         Russell Roberts, Extension 4-H & Youth Development Specialist

     Name of County     Camp Dates          Location       For Info Call
     
     Newberry                               Camp Long      276-1091
     Oconee                                 Camp Long      638-5889
     Orangeburg                             Camp Cooper    534-6280
     Pickens                                Camp Long      868-2810, or
                                                           859-2422
     Richland                               Camp Long      256-1678
     
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CAMPING DATES FOR COUNTIES (A - B)                                  
-DOC-
                      CAMPING DATES FOR COUNTIES (A - B)            
        Russell Roberts, Extension 4-H & Youth Development Specialist

     Name of County     Camp Dates          Location       For Info Call

     Abbeville                              Camp Long      459-4106 or 2512
     Aiken                                  Camp Long      649-6671 or 6297
     Allendale                              Camp Long      584-4207
     Anderson                               Camp Long      226-1581 or 1582
     Bamberg                                Camp Cooper    245-2661, 2170
                                                           or 793-5607
     Barnwell                               Camp Cooper    259-7141, 7145
                                                           or 1103
     Beaufort                               Camp Long      525-7118, 7117
     Berkeley                               Camp Cooper    761-8499 or 8510
                                                           
                                        
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CAMPING DATES FOR COUNTIES (C - D)                      
-DOC-
                      CAMPING DATES FOR COUNTIES (C - D)
         Russell Roberts, Extension 4-H & Youth Development Specialist

     Name of County     Camp Dates          Location       For Info Call

     Calhoun                                Camp Cooper    874-2354
     Charleston                             Camp Cooper    724-4226
     Cherokee                               Camp Long      489-3141
     Chester                                Camp Cooper    385-6181
     Chesterfield                           Camp Cooper    623-2134
     Clarendon                              Camp Cooper    435-8429 or 8420
     Colleton           
     Darlington                             Camp Cooper    393-0484
     Dillon                                 Camp Cooper    774-8218 or 8219
     Dorchester                             Camp Cooper    563-3441, 5135, or
                                                           5171
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CAMPING DATES FOR COUNTIES (L AND M)                      
-DOC-
                      CAMPING DATES FOR COUNTIES (L AND M)
         Russell Roberts, Extension 4-H & Youth Development Specialist

     Name of County     Camp Dates          Location       For Info Call

     Lancaster                              Camp Cooper    283-3302
     Laurens                                Camp Long      984-2514 or 2515
     Lee                                    Camp Cooper    484-5416 or 5417
     Lexington                              Camp Long      359-4265
     Marion                                 Camp Cooper    423-0891
     Marlboro                               Camp Cooper    479-6851
     McCormick                              Camp Long      465-2112
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CAMPING DATES FOR COUNTIES (E - K)                      
-DOC-
                      CAMPING DATES FOR COUNTIES (E - K)
         Russell Roberts, Extension 4-H & Youth Development Specialist

      Name of County    Camp Dates          Location       For Info Call

      Edgefield                             Camp Long      637-3161
      Fairfield                             Camp Long      635-4722 or 4918
      Florence                              Camp Cooper    662-8719 or 8710
      Georgetown                            Camp Cooper    546-4481 or 6421
      Greenville                            Camp Long      232-4431 or 4432
      Greenwood                             Camp Long      229-6681
      Hampton                               Camp Cooper    943-3621 or 3427
      Horry                                 Camp Cooper    248-2267
      Jasper                                Camp Cooper    726-3470
      Kershaw                               Camp Cooper    432-9071
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CAMPING DATES FOR COUNTIES (S - Z)                      
-DOC-
                      CAMPING DATES FOR COUNTIES (S - Z)
         Russell Roberts, Extension 4-H & Youth Development Specialist

      Name of County    Camp Dates          Location       For Info Call

      Saluda                                Camp Long      445-8117
      Spartanburg                           Camp Long      582-6779, or
                                                           582-6770
      Sumter                                Camp Cooper    773-5561 or 5562
      Union                                 Camp Long      427-6259
      Williamsburg                          Camp Cooper    354-6106
      York                                  Camp Long      684-9919
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUNE, 1987                                                               
-DOC-
                                   JUNE, 1987                            

Date                        Event                                
 ---                        -----                                
June 8       State 4-H Camps Open
June 8       State 4-H Business Demonstration Competition - Columbia
June 9       State 4-H Horse Demonstration and Public Speaking 
             Competition - Columbia
June 9       Junior 4-H Dairy Judging - To be Announced
June 9-10    State 4-H Horse Show - Columbia
June         State 4-H Fashion Clinic - Columbia
June 15      4-H Achievement Record Books for County Winners due in
             State 4-H Office, 232 Poole Agr. Center
June 15      Garments for County Winners in Clothing & Fashion Revue
             due in Judy Kline's Office, 240 Poole Agr. Center
June 15-19   AMP Camp - Camp Long
June 16      Piedmont District 4-H Livestock Judging - To be Announced
June 16      Savannah Valley District 4-H Poultry Day - To be Announced
June 17      Savannah Valley District 4-H Livestock Judging - To be Announced
June 17      Pee Dee District 4-H Poultry Day - To be Announced

June 18      Pee Dee District 4-H Livestock Judging - To be Announced
June 18      Piedmont District 4-H Poultry Day - To be Announced
June 20      4-H District Debate Tournament, Expressive & Performing
             Arts Competition - Camp Long
June 22-26   State 4-H Record Judging - Clemson


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JULY, 1987                                   
-DOC-
                                   JULY, 1987

Date                          Event                        
 ---                          -----                        
July 1        State 4-H Conference Registration Material due in State 4-H
              Office, 232 Poole Agr. Center                                     
July          State 4-H Horse Judging - To be Announced     
July 12-18    Citizenship/Washington Focus - Washington, DC
July 15       Due in State 4-H Office, 232 Poole Agr. Center
              ----------------------------------------------
              1) Forms C (Cloverleafs) and J (Juniors) for District 
                 4-H Junior Achievement Days
              2) Names & Addresses of Resource Leaders to serve as 
                 judges at District Junior Achievement Days
July 26-30    National 4-H Forestry Invitational - Jackson's Mill, WV           
July 28       Photography and Poster Art Exhibits due at State 4-H            
              Conference Registration
July 28-31    State 4-H Conference - Clemson
July 30       Second Annual 4-H Volunteer Day - Clemson




-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AUGUST, 1987                                                                   
-DOC-
                                  AUGUST, 1987                                 

Date                         Event                        
 ---                         -----                        
August          State 4-H Electric Congress - To be Announced

August 5-8      Southern Region 4-H Horse Event - Houston, Texas

August 10       Piedmont District 4-H Junior Achievement Day - To be Announced 

August 11       Savannah Valley District 4-H Junior Achievement Day -
                Camp Long

August 12       Pee Dee District 4-H Junior Achievement Day - Camp Bob Cooper

August 10-13    National Institute of Cooperatives - To be Announced

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER, 1987                           
-DOC-
                           SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER, 1987

Date                           Event                                   
 ---                           -----                                   
September 1         Due in State 4-H Office, 232 Poole Agr. Ctr.
                    --------------------------------------------
                    1) State Winners' 4-H Achievement Records 
                       for Regional and National Judging
                    2) County Report Form 1 (Medals)
September 9-11      SC Association of Extension 4-H Agents' Annual
                    Meeting - Camp Long
September           Regional 4-H Livestock Judging - Richmond, VA
September           Regional 4-H Poultry Judging - Richmond, VA
September 21        Junior 4-H Dairy Show - Harrisburg, PA
September 28-30     Eastern US 4-H Engineering Event - Richmond, VA
Sept. 28 - Oct. 1   National 4-H Dairy Conference - Madison, WI
October 1           ES-237 Enrollment Report due in State 4-H Office, 
                    232 Poole Agr. Center
October 4-10        National 4-H Week

October 5-9         Southern Region 4-H Leaders' Forum - Rock Eagle 4-H
                    Center, Eatonton, GA
October 6-8         Eastern 4-H Horse Roundup - To be Announced
October             State Fair - Columbia

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NOVEMBER & DECEMBER, 1987                           
-DOC-
                           NOVEMBER & DECEMBER, 1987

Date                          Event
 ---                          -----
November 8-13     National Association of Extension 4-H Agents'
                  Conference - San Diego, CA

November 16-18    National 4-H Livestock Judging - Louisville, KY

November 18-19    National 4-H Poultry & Egg Conference - Louisville, KY

November          4-H Officer Training (District)

December 5-11     National 4-H Congress - Chicago, IL

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JANUARY & FEBRUARY, 1987                           
-DOC-
                           JANUARY & FEBRUARY, 1987

Date                                   Event                          
 ---                                   -----                            
January            Agent Selection Forms for State 4-H Events due in State 
                   4-H Office, 108 Barre Hall

February 13-14     4-H Horse-Youth Leader Symposium - Camp Long

February 21        4-H & FFA Agronomy Field Day - Florence/Darlington TEC

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MARCH & APRIL, 1987                              
-DOC-
                              MARCH & APRIL, 1987

Date                            Event                         
 ---                            -----                         
March 28        State 4-H Soil Judging Contest - Simpson Experiment Station

March 27-29     State 4-H Teen Planning Retreat - Camp Long

April 4 & 11    District 4-H Forestry Invitationals

April 11-18     National 4-H Conference - Washington, DC

April 25        Workshops and Training in Public Speaking, Illustrative Talks, 
                Demonstrations, Debating, Expressive & Performing Arts, 
                Leadership Development - Camp Long

April 25-29     National 4-H Commodity Marketing Symposium - Chicago, IL

Apr.26-May 2    National Volunteer Week

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MAY, 1987                                   
-DOC-
                                   MAY, 1987


Date                       Event                                   
 ---                       -----                           
May 2        State 4-H Forestry Invitational - Sandhill R&E Center   

May 6-7      International Land, Range, & Pasture Judging Contest - Oklahoma 
                                                                    City, OK


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NATIONAL 4-H (USDA) PROGRAM EMPHASIS                     
-DOC-
                     NATIONAL 4-H (USDA) PROGRAM EMPHASIS
     John H. Schwartz, Extension Specialist - 4-H and Youth Development

4-H is Extension's dynamic, informal, educational program for today's young 
people.  The program combines the cooperative efforts of youth, volunteer 
leaders, state land grant universities, federal-state-local governments, and 
the US Department of Agriculture.  

The mission of the Cooperative Extension Service in conducting 4-H programs 
is to assist youth in:

   - acquiring knowledge. 
   - developing life skills. 
   - forming attitudes that will enable them to become self-directing, 
     productive, and contributing members of society.

4-H's goal is to create a learning environment for youth that is stimulating 
to the development of life skills in:

   - competency - developing skills and knowledge.
   - coping - dealing with stress.
   - contributory - learning to help others.





NATIONWIDE EXTENSION PRIORITY INITIATIVES:

  Building Human Capital
  Improving Nutrition, Diet, and Health
  Increasing Family Economic and Emotional Stability
  Revitalization of Rural America
  Conservation and Management of Natural Resources
  Water Quality
  Alternative Agricultural Opportunities
  Agriculture Competitiveness and Profitability

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Commodity and Other Agencies Scholarships               
-DOC-
               Commodity and Other Agencies Scholarships
    John H. Schwartz, Extension Specialist - 4-H and Youth Development

                 ICI AMERICAS - COTTON FOUNDATION SCHOLARSHIP
Amount:                     $2,000 One-time Award

Number:                     Minimum of 25

Who:                        Must be child of those who contribute to the 
                            production of cotton or cotton products.  
                            Examples, but not restricted to growers, ginners, 
                            textile researchers, cotton consultants, cotton 
                            marketers, chemical distributors, etc.

Selection Criteria:         Academic Record and 250- to 500-word essay on how 
                            the candidate's education and future goals will 
                            aid the cotton industry and the people involved 
                            with that industry.

Deadline for Application:   August 15, 1987


For More Information:       John H. Schwartz, State 4-H Office, Clemson
                            University, 232 Poole Agricultural Center,
                            Clemson, SC 29634-0316; (803) 656-3423

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CONFERENCE SCHEDULE                          
-DOC-
                         CONFERENCE SCHEDULE 
     John H. Schwartz, Extension Specialist- 4-H and Youth Development

                         Monday, July 25,1988 

1.  Pack Suitcases - Remember to Pack:
 
      a. Toothbrush
 
      b. Toilet Articles
 
      c. Towels, washcloth, and soap
 
      d. Bed sheets, blanket, and pillow
 
2.  Make last-minute preparations.
     
    Pack everything for your competitive event.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
State Conference Schedule               
-DOC-
              State Conference Schedule 
John H. Schwartz, Extension Specialist - 4-H and Youth Development
 
           Tuesday, July 26, 1988
 
12:30-2:00 PM    Registration
12:30-4:30       Exhibits
1:30             State Teen Representatives Meeting
1:30-5:00        Interviews
2:30-3:30        Committee Meetings
3:45-5:30        County Pictures
5:00-6:00        Dinner
6:15             Teen Representatives Meeting
6:15-7:15        Delegate Advisors Meeting
6:15-7:15        Chorus Organizes
7:30             Opening Session
9:00-11:15       Dance
                 Recreation
                 Entertainment
11:30            County Huddles
12:00            Quiet Time
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Conference Schedule - Wednesday                
-DOC-
                Conference Schedule - Wednesday
 John H. Schwartz, Extension Specialist - 4-H and Youth Development
 
Wednesday, July 27
7:00-8:00 AM     Breakfast
8:30-11:30       Competitive Events
11:30-1:00 PM    Lunch
1:30-3:30 PM     Continuation of Competitive Events
1:30-2:15        Workshop 1
2:30-3:15        Workshop 2
3:45-5:00        Recreation
4:30-5:45        Chorus Rehearsal
5:00-6:15        Dinner
6:15-7:15        SCAE4-HA
7:30             General Session
                 Performing Arts Show
9:00-11:30       Dance - Pizza
                 Recreation
                 Entertainment
11:30            County Huddles
12:00            Quiet Time
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Conference Schedule - Thursday                
-DOC-
                Conference Schedule - Thursday
  John H. Schwartz, Extension Specialist - 4-H and Youth Development
 
Thursday, July 28
7:00-8:00 AM     Breakfast
8:30             General Session
9:15-10:15       Workshop 3
10:30-11:30      Workshop 4
11:30-1:00 PM    Lunch
1:30-2:45 PM     General Session
                 Program on Space Exploration
2:45-4:30        Recreation
3:00-4:30        Banquet & Cloverleaf Ball Committee
                 Chorus Practice
3:30             District Teen Representatives Meet
4:00-5:00        Donor Reception
5:00-6:30        South Carolina Awards Assembly
7:00             South Carolina 4-H Banquet
9:00-11:15       Cloverleaf Ball
                 Recreation
                 Entertainment
11:30            Closing Ceremony
12:00            County Huddles
12:30 AM         Quiet Time
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Conference Program - Friday                 
-DOC-
                 Conference Program - Friday
   John H. Schwartz, Extension Specialist - 4-H and Youth Development
 
Friday, July 29
7:00-8:00 AM     Breakfast
8:00-9:00        Checkout
 
 
                          Have a Safe Trip Home!
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGROMEDICINE PROGRAM                             
-DOC-
                             AGROMEDICINE PROGRAM
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
The Agromedicine Program is a collaborative association between the College of
Agricultural Sciences of Clemson University and the College of Medicine of the
Medical University of South Carolina.  The purpose of the program is to provide
to South Carolina the unified skills of agricultural and medical sciences to
promote more efficient, safer and healthier techniques in agriculture while
protecting human and natural resources.  The Agromedicine Program applies the
principles of occupational and preventive medicine in its role as a resource to
Clemson University, the Cooperative Extension Service and to the citizens of
South Carolina.
 
Activities of the Agromedicine Program include public service, education and
research.  Free medical consultation and pesticide residue laboratory support
are available to our state's medical community for the diagnosis and management
of pesticide associated illness and other medical conditions unique to the
agricultural environment.  Lectures and educational programs are provided to
students, health care professionals, agricultural professionals, grower
associations and community organizations for the purpose of promoting wellness
in agriculture workers and their families and in those who work in associated
industries.  Research is ongoing to expand the knowledge of agricultural
medicine.  Research findings are used to update educational activities.
 
The offices and laboratory of the Agromedicine Program are located in
Charleston at the Medical University of South Carolina in Suite 304 of the
Summerall Center (19 Hagood Avenue).  Dr. Stanley H. Schuman is the Medical
Director and may be reached at 792-2281.  Address correspondence to the
Agromedicine Program, MUSC, 171 Ashley Avenue, Charleston, S.C. 29425.  The
coordinator for Clemson University is Dr. Jere A. Brittain, 266 P&AS Building,
Clemson University, Clemson, S.C. 29634 (telephone: 656-3403).
 
 
 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE SAFE USE OF PESTICIDES                          
-DOC-
                          THE SAFE USE OF PESTICIDES
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

     The safe use of pesticides is more important today than ever before.  
Pesticide applicators have increased legal and moral responsibility to apply 
pesticides correctly and only as needed.  Protection of the environment and 
control of pollutants are major issues today.  It is essential that pesticide 
applicators be familiar with material covered in the Safe Use section.  We 
have attempted to provide essential information on the S.C. Pesticide Control 
Act, pesticide side effects, pesticide waste and container disposal, safety in 
handling pesticides, and poison control information.

                       THE ENDANGERED SPECIES ACT (ESA)
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

     Beginning in 1988, the US Environmental Protection Agency (ESA) will 
begin enforcing their pesticide use policies under ESA.  This policy will 
prohibit the use of some pesticides in specific locations.  The labels of 
those pesticides so restricted will state that the use of the pesticide is 
prohibited in specific counties or specific areas within counties.  The 
affected counties will be listed on the pesticide label.  In order to use the 
pesticide, the user must obtain a "EPA PESTICIDE USE BULLETIN FOR PROTECTION 
OF ENDANGERED SPECIES."  These bulletins will describe all pertinent 
restrictions in each affected county.  Bulletins will be available from a 
variety of sources including pesticide dealers, agricultural consultants, and 
county SCS, ASCS and Extension offices.  PESTICIDE USERS ARE CAUTIONED TO 
OBTAIN AND CAREFULLY REVIEW ALL PERTINENT INFORMATION ABOUT ENDANGERED SPECIES 
PRIOR TO THE PURCHASE AND USE OF PESTICIDES CARRYING ENDANGERED SPECIES 
RESTRICTIONS!

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOUTH CAROLINA PESTICIDE CONTROL ACT                     
-DOC-
                     SOUTH CAROLINA PESTICIDE CONTROL ACT
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

    The South Carolina Pesticide Control Act was enacted in June 1975.  The law
requires registration of all pesticides (insecticides, fungicides, herbicides,
nematicides, desiccants, defoliants, plant regulators, and disinfectants)
offered for sale in South Carolina and provides for the sampling and chemical
analysis of such pesticides.  The South Carolina Pesticide Control Act also
provides for the regulation of the use and application of pesticides. 
Enforcement of the law is the responsibility of the Department of Fertilizer
and Pesticide Control, a department of the Division of Regulatory and Public
Service Program, Clemson University.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PESTICIDE REGISTRATION                            
-DOC-
                            PESTICIDE REGISTRATION
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

    Every pesticide distributed within the state or delivered for transpor-
tation or transported in intrastate commerce must be registered with the
Department of Fertilizer and Pesticide Control.  Registration must be renewed
annually before January 1.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CLASSIFICATION OF PESTICIDES                         
-DOC-
                         CLASSIFICATION OF PESTICIDES
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

    The Environmental Protection Agency is directed by federal law to classify
all pesticides for either "general use" or "restricted use".  Pesticides
classified for general use may be purchased by the general public and applied
according to the label directions.  Pesticides classified for restricted use
may be purchased and applied only be certified applicators or individuals
working under the direct supervision of a certified applicator.  South Carolina
will accept the classfication of pesticides as provided by the Environmental
Protection Agency.  Thus far EPA has classified all or some uses of 48 active
ingredients restricted.  This affects over 2,500 products nationally and some
460 pesticide products statewide.  Additional pesticides will be classified
restricted use this year.  General use pesticides will not be classified in the
near future.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EXPLANATION OF CLASSES AND CATEGORIES OF CERTIFIED APPLICATORS        
-DOC-
        EXPLANATION OF CLASSES AND CATEGORIES OF CERTIFIED APPLICATORS
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

    (1) Noncommercial Applicator - This class includes those individuals who
are employees of federal, state, or local government who use or supervise the
use of any restricted use pesticide in performing their duties as governmental
employees.
    (2) Commercial Applicator - This class includes those individuals who use
or supervise the use of any restricted use pesticide for any purpose or on any
property other than as a private or noncommercial applicator.  Thus, if you use
a restricted pesticide and you are not a grower (private applicator) or
noncommerical applicator, then you are a commercial applicator.
    (3) Private Applicator - This class includes those individuals who use or
supervise the use of any pesticide which is classified for restricted use for
producing any agricultural commodity, including forestry products, on property
owned or rented by them or their employers, or (if applied without compensation
other than trading of personal services between producers of agricultural
commodities) on the property of another person.  (These are growers-farmers,
etc.)
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CATEGORIES OF COMMERCIAL AND NONCOMMERCIAL APPLICATORS            
-DOC-
            CATEGORIES OF COMMERCIAL AND NONCOMMERCIAL APPLICATORS
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

    (1) Agricultural Pest Control
         (i) Plant - This category includes applicators using or supervising 
the use of restricted use pesticides in producing agricultural crops, including
but not limited to:  tobacco, peanuts, cotton, feed grains, soybeans and
forage, small fruits, vegetables, tree fruits and nuts, as well as on grass-
lands and noncrop agricultural lands.
         (ii) Animal - This category includes applicators using or supervising
the use of restricted use pesticides on animals, including, but not limited to: 
beef cattle, dairy cattle, swine, sheep, horses, goats, poultry, and to places
on or in which animals are confined.
    (2) Forest Pest Control - This category includes applicators using or
supervising the use of restricted use pesticides in forests, forest nurseries,
and forest-seed-producing areas.
    (3) Ornamental and Turf Pest Control - This category includes applicators
using or supervising the use of restricted use pesticides to control pests in
maintenance and production of ornamental trees, shrubs, flowers, and turf.
    (4) Seed Treatment - This category includes applicators using or super-
vising the use of restricted use pesticides on seeds.
    \$
    (5) Aquatic Pest Control - This category includes applicators using or
supervising th use of any restricted use pesticides pruposefully applied to
standing or running water, excluding applicators engaged in public-health-
related activities included in category 8.
    (6) Right-of-Way Pest Control - This category includes applicators using or
supervising the use of restricted use pesticides in the maintenance of public
roads, electric powerlines, pipelines, railway rights-of-way, or other similar
areas.
    (7a) Industrial, Institutional, Structural, and Health-Related Pest Control
  This category includes applicators using or supervising the use of restricted
use pesticides in, on, or around food-handling establishments, human dwellings,
institutions, such as schools and hospitals, industrial establishments,
including warehouses and grain elevators, and any other structures and adjacent
areas, public or private, and for the protection of stored, processed, or
manufactured products or structures.
    (7b) Fumigation - This category includes individuals using or supervising
the use of a restricted use fumigant for pest control.
    (8) Public Health Pest Control - This category includes state or federal
employees or other individuals using or supervising the use of restricted use
pesticides in public health programs for the management and control of pests
having medical and public health importance.
    (9) Regulatory Pest Control - This category includes state, federal, or
other governmental employees who use or supervise the use of restricted use
pesticides in the control of regulated pests.
    (10) Demonstration and Research Pest Control - This category includes: (1)
individuals who demonstrate to the public the proper use techniques for
applying restricted use pesticides or supervise such demonstration and (2)
persons conducting field research with restricted use pesticides.
    Included in the first group are such persons as Extension specialists,
county agents, commerical representatives demonstrating pesticide products, and
those individuals demonstrating methods use in public programs.
    The second group includes state and federal employees, commercial represen-
tatives, and other persons conducting field research on or using restricted use
pesticides.
    (11) Aerial Applicator - This category includes individuals who apply
restricted use pesticides using any type of aircraft.
    (12) Miscellaneous - This category includes individuals who use restricted
use pesticides in pest control areas not covered in any of the other cate-
gories.  Included in this category are wood preservation treaters, cooling
water treaters, feed and seed storage facility fumigators, and tobacco-bed
fumigators and others.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSING OF APPLICATORS AND PESTICIDE DEALERS                
-DOC-
                LICENSING OF APPLICATORS AND PESTICIDE DEALERS
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

    Applicators - "Certified applicator" means any individual who is certified
to use or supervise the use of any pesticide which is classified for restricted
use.  Certification as a private applicator is achieved by attending the
private applicator training sessions held at the county Clemson University
Cooperative Extension Service office and by submitting the $5.00 per 5-year
block license fee.  Private applicators becoming licensed in 1988 will pay
$2.00 for 2 years.  The 5-year block renewal began in 1985.  Upon receipt of
the license fee and verification of training, the private applicator license is
issued.
    Certification of commercial applicators is achieved by: (1) receiving a
passing score on the certification exams administered after each Clemson
University Cooperative Extension Service Certification Training Program or
receiving a passing score on the certification exams administered quarterly
across the state by the Department of Fertilizer and Pesticide Control, (2)
proof of financial responsibility in the amount of $5,000.00 property damage
and public liability insurance, and (3) submission of the $25.00 annual license
fee.  The license is then issued and applicator certification is complete.

    Dealers - "Pesticide dealers" are individuals engaged in the business of
distributing, selling, offering for sale, or holding for sale pesticides
classified for restricted uses for distribution directly to users.
    Licensing of pesticide dealers is achieved by: (1) receiving a passing
score on the pesticide dealer exam administered quarterly across the state by
the Department of Fertilizer and Pesticide Control and (2) submitting the
application form and the $25.00 annual license fee.
    All licenses, applicator and dealer, expire on December 31 of the year of
expiration shown on the license and must be renewed before January 1 or a 25%
penalty fee is assessed.  If any license is not renewed by the end of the year
following expiration, the licensee will be required to undergo training
(private applicator) or pass another examination (noncommercial, commercial
applicators, and dealers).
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PENALTIES                                   
-DOC-
                                   PENALTIES
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

    Criminal - Any person who willfully violates any provision of the law or
regulations is subject to the following penalties:
    a. First offense - fined not more than $100.00 or imprisoned for not more  
 than 30 days.
    b. Second offense - fined not more than $500.00 or imprisoned not more than
       60 days.
    c. Third or subsequent offense - fined not more than $1,000.00 or impri  
soned for not more than 90 days.
    Civil - In addition to license suspension or revocation, any person who
violates any provision of the law or regulations may be assessed a civil
penalty of not more than $1,000.00 for each offense.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
REGULATIONS                                  
-DOC-
                                  REGULATIONS
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

    Regulations to the South Carolina Pesticide Control Act have been promul-
gated. The major impact on the pesticide applicator is the requirement for
record keeping, vehicle identification, and in some cases applicator assurance
statements when restricted use pesticides are used.
    Standards for prevention and control of wood-destroying organisms for pest
control operators went into effect August 29, 1980.  During mid-1983 a regu-
lation was passed requiring all persons performing Structural Pest Control
activities on the property of another to be licensed.  Consult a complete copy
of the regulations available from the Department of Fertilizer and Pesticide
Control for details.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHEMIGATION ACT                                
-DOC-
                                CHEMIGATION ACT
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

    This Act will not be fully implemented until 1989.  It requires that
anti-siphon devices be installed on any irrigation system which utilizes
chemigation, i.e. applies fertilizers or pesticides.  Each system must have: 
(1) an interlock system that shuts off the chemical injection pump when the
irrigation pump shuts off - this prevents excessive chemical from being pumped
into the irrigation line when water flow has ceased.
(2) a check valve installed before the chemical injection point to prevent
water from returning to the water source.
(3) a low pressure drain which is used as a backup safety device for the check
valve.  It allows any leakage from the check valve to drain off without running
back to the water source.
(4) a vacuum breaker which allows air into the pipeline when the pump stops,
allowing the water before the check valve to drain back to the water source
breaking the column of water and preventing siphoning.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AMMEDED FEDERAL INSECTICIDE, FUNGICIDE, AND RODENTICIDE ACT          
-DOC-
          AMMEDED FEDERAL INSECTICIDE, FUNGICIDE, AND RODENTICIDE ACT
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

    This act was ammended during 1978, most notably, to allow use of pesticides
against pests not listed on the pesticide label.  However, the pesticide must
be used at the labeled rate for the site or crop, which must be on the pesti-
cide label.  For example, a grower must control the tarnished plant bug on
apples.  The grower has an endosulfan (Thiodan) label which gives directions
for use on apples to control aphids, but the tarnished plant bug is not
included on the label's list of pests.  The grower may then use endosulfan for
the tarnished plant bug if the application rate for aphids (or other labeled 
pests) and the other restrictions and limitations for application to apples are
followed.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE ENDANGERED SPECIES ACT (ESA)                       
-DOC-
                       THE ENDANGERED SPECIES ACT (ESA)
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

     Beginning in 1988, the US Environmental Protection Agency (ESA) will 
begin enforcing their pesticide use policies under ESA.  This policy will 
prohibit the use of some pesticides in specific locations.  The labels of 
those pesticides so restricted will state that the use of the pesticide is 
prohibited in specific counties or specific areas within counties.  The 
affected counties will be listed on the pesticide label.  In order to use the 
pesticide, the user must obtain a "EPA PESTICIDE USE BULLETIN FOR PROTECTION 
OF ENDANGERED SPECIES."  These bulletins will describe all pertinent 
restrictions in each affected county.  Bulletins will be available from a 
variety of sources including pesticide dealers, agricultural consultants, and 
county SCS, ASCS and Extension offices.  PESTICIDE USERS ARE CAUTIONED TO 
OBTAIN AND CAREFULLY REVIEW ALL PERTINENT INFORMATION ABOUT ENDANGERED SPECIES 
PRIOR TO THE PURCHASE AND USE OF PESTICIDES CARRYING ENDANGERED SPECIES 
RESTRICTIONS!

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HARMFUL SIDE EFFECTS FROM THE USE OF PESTICIDES                
-DOC-

                HARMFUL SIDE EFFECTS FROM THE USE OF PESTICIDES
         P.M. Horton, Extension Entomologist and Chemical Coordinator

     When a chemical or drug produces an effect in addition to the one 
intended, we call this a "side effect."  Some side effects are helpful and 
desirable; those discussed here are detrimental and unplanned.

    Many undesirable side effects have occurred because of a lack of 
information about the impact of a chemical on the total environment.

    As our knowledge of pesticides develops, we realize that only through the 
most discriminate use of chemicals can we avoid such problems.  Today, as 
never before, questions concerning side effects are begin asked.  The answers 
are begin found through research.  Most of the more important side effects of 
pesticide usage are discussed here.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
REDUCTION OF BENEFICIAL SPECIES                        
-DOC-

                        REDUCTION OF BENEFICIAL SPECIES
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Many species of predators and parasites play important roles in 
suppressing or controlling insects, mites, and other invertebrates which are 
or may become pests if allowed to develop high populations.

    A predator may be defined as a living, active animal which catches and 
devours another organism or animal (prey).

    Insect predators are important in helping keep certain noxious species of 
insects in check.  If it were not for the aid received from beneficial 
insects, our job of preventing insect damage to crops and possessions would be 
greatly increased.

    Many mammals such as hogs, bats, moles, shrews, mice, skunks, and 
squirrels eat insects.  Frogs, toads, and salamanders are amphibians which 
feed on insects.  A number of reptiles and fish feed upon insects.  Spiders 
are probably the most important noninsect predators of insects.
REDUCTION OF BENEFICIAL SPECIES (cont)

    Insects that feed upon insects are numerous and far more valuable than all 
other predators combined.  To list accurately all insect predators is 
difficult; however, a partial listing is as follows:

           Lady beetles               Ambush bugs
           Ground beetles             Syrphid fly larvae
           Soldier beetles            Robber flies
           Fireflies                  Many ants
           Rove beetles               Praying mantis
           Tiger beetles              Lacewings (aphid lions)
           Assassin bugs              Certain wasps
           Damsel bugs                  (Sphecidae and Vespid

    Parasites are organisms that live on or in another organism (host) and 
require the whole or part of the individual to complete its life cycle.  
Parasites are becoming more important as biological control agents, 
particularly the parasitoid wasps.
REDUCTION OF BENEFICIAL SPECIES (cont)

    A number of pesticides have been found toxic to various beneficial 
species.  If these chemicals are used under certain conditions, they may 
drastically reduce the populations of the beneficial organisms.  When this 
occurs, the predators or parasites no longer exert a significant influence on 
the pest or potential pest and a more serious pest problem may develop than 
originally existed.

    This is one of the most serious side effects associated with the use of 
pesticide chemicals because, without the aid of these beneficial species, even 
the most intensive chemical control programs are not enough to cope with 
certain types of pest problems.  Pesticides must be used intelligently to 
avoid such serious consequence

    Future insect control will probably be made up of techniques using 
parasites, predators, pathogens, and cultural control methods in combination 
with selected insecticides.  This combination of practices to accomplish 
economic pest control is generally referred to as Integrated Pest Management 
of IPM.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DRIFT                                     
-DOC-

                                     DRIFT
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Drift is a side effect associated with both ground and aerial pesticide 
application.  The degree or severity of drift is dependent upon such factors 
as the physical form of the material applied, how the material is applied, the 
volume used, and the weather conditions prevailing at the time of the 
application.

    Applications of pesticides by aircraft have frequently resulted in severe 
residue problems on crops although they were made up to one-half mile or more 
from the contaminated crop.

    Other important considerations of the result of drift in many cases are 
the effect that some chemicals may have on nontarget organisms when the 
chemical is carried from the intended point of application by wind or water.

    Drift is a severe and universal problem and should be considered before 
making any type of pesticide application.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AVOIDING PROBLEMS WHEN TREATING AROUND FISH PONDS,               
-DOC-

              AVOIDING PROBLEMS WHEN TREATING AROUND FISH PONDS, 
                  FISH-BEARING STREAMS AND ESTUARINE AREAS.*
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Use maximum gallonage (3 gal spray or more by air or 6 gal/acre with 
ground equipment) per acre and low pressure (max 25 PSI for aircraft and 40 
PSI for ground sprayers).

    Delay treatments near fish ponds, etc., until wind is blowing away from 
sensitive area.

    Use the chemical less toxic (to fish) if the choice is available.

    Apply IPM principles such as scounting, etc., and treat only when 
necessary and with minimum rate to obtain control.

    *This information is taken from "Agricultural Chemical Toxicity to 
Selected Aquatic Animals:  Bluegill, Channel Catfish, Rainbow Trout, Crawfish, 
and Fresh Water Shrimp" by T. L. Wellborn, Jr., Ruth Morgan, and G. W. Guyton.  
Extension Wildlife and Fisheries and Extension Entomology, Mississippi State 
University.
AVOIDING PROBLEMS WHEN TREATING AROUND FISH PONDS, (cont)

    Advise farmers where practical to plant crops near ponds and fish-bearing 
waters that will require a minimum of insect control (soybeans rather than 
cotton, for example).

    Check application equipment daily to ensure there are no leaks in hoses 
and fittings.

    Aerial applicators, whether equipment is loaded or empty, should not fly 
over fish ponds or fish-bearing waters if it can possibly be avo

    Avoid the use of LV or ULV sprayers in the vicinity of fish ponds or fish-
bearing waters.

    Check to ensure that chemicals are mixed adequately before initiating 
spray operations (for example, premix chemical before loading sprayers).

    Aerial applicators should check calibration and follow all practices which 
enhance accurate delivery of pesticides.  See Application section of handbook 
for tips on calibration, etc.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WILDLIFE LOSSES                                
-DOC-

                                WILDLIFE LOSSES
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Another side effect is injury or death to fish and wildlife.  These 
effects should be of concern to all who use pesticide chemicals.  It is 
contrary to good judgment and infringes upon the rights of others when these 
natural resources are destroyed through careless and indiscriminate use of 
poisonous chemicals.  It is also illegal to apply pesticides improperly.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HONEYBEE AND OTHER POLLINATING-INSECT LOSSES                 
-DOC-

                 HONEYBEE AND OTHER POLLINATING-INSECT LOSSES
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Efficient production of many crops depends on pollination by honeybees and 
some other insects.  Without the help of these pollinators, we would not have 
some of our fruit, vegetable, forage, and seed crops.  One of the serious side 
effects of pesticide applications has been the loss of many pollinators each 
year.  Because of the importance of these insects, make every effort to use 
pesticides so that they will cause the least amount of injury to pollinators.  
This requires detailed knowledge of pesticide toxicity to bees, timing of 
application in relation to bee activity in crops, least hazardous method of 
application, and cooperation among growers, applicators, and beekeepers.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOXICITY OF PESTICIDES TO HONEYBEES                      
-DOC-

                      TOXICITY OF PESTICIDES TO HONEYBEES
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Many pesticides are highly toxic to honeybees and other beneficial 
insects.  The farmer, the beekeeper, and the agricultural chemicals industry 
should cooperate closely to keep losses of beneficial insects to a minimum.  
To pretect these insects, it is essential to use only the safest of the 
recommended materials.  The groupings on the following pages show the relative 
toxicity of many pesticides to honeybees as determined by laboratory and field 
tests.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOW TO USE HAZARDOUS PESTICIDES AROUND HONEYBEES               
-DOC-

               HOW TO USE HAZARDOUS PESTICIDES AROUND HONEYBEES
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    The kind and amount of pesticide used is important.  Use the proper dosage 
of the safest material that will give good pest control.  Read the label and 
follow approved local, state, and federal recommendations.

    When using materials hazardous to bees, notify beekeepers so they can 
protect their bees.

    Granular formulations of insecticides are the safest to use around bees.  
Directed sprays applied with ground equipment are the next safest for applying 
insecticides around bees.  Aerially applied sprays or dusts are most likely to 
contact bees and cause problems.

    Generally, application by airplane is more hazardous to bees than by 
ground equipment.  

    Treating large areas and repeating applications may cause greater bee 
losses.
HOW TO USE HAZARDOUS PESTICIDES AROUND HONEYBEES (cont)

    Time of application is important and depends on bloom period and 
attractiveness of crop.  Treatments when bees are goraging in the field are 
usually the most hazardous.  Treatments over colonies in hot weather, when 
bees are clustering on the outside, amy cause severe losses.  Treatments 
during the night and early morning before bees are foraging are the safest.

    Treating a nonblooming crop with a hazardous material when cover crops, 
weeds, or wild flowers are in bloom in the field or close by may cause heavy 
bee losses.  Drift of pesticides to neighboring fields attractive to bees also 
may cause losses.

    Location of bees is important.  Colonies located in fields being treated 
may sustain more losses than colonies outside the treated area-at the edge or 
away from the field.  Colonies moved into a field after treatment may escape 
damage.  Farmers and applicators must make a special effort to protect bees to 
ensure the continued availability of this important beneficial insect.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RELATIVE TOXICITY OF PESTICIDES TO HONEYBEES                 
-DOC-

                 RELATIVE TOXICITY OF PESTICIDES TO HONEYBEES
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group 1 - Highly Toxic: Severe losses may be expected if the following 
materials are used when bees are present at treatment time or within a day 
thereafter, except as indicated by footnotes.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
acephate ORTHENE          EPN                       monocrotophos AZODRIN
aldicarb TEMICK           famphur FAMOPHOS          naled DIBROM
azinphosmethyl ETHYL      fensulfothion DASANIT     parathion
calcium arsenate          fenthion BAYTEX           permethrin AMBUSH, POUNCE
carbaryl SEVIN 80S        lead arsenate             phorate THIMET
carbofuran FURADAN        lindane                   phosmet IMIDAN
carbophenothion TRITHION  malathion technical       phosphamidon DIMECRON
                             CYTHION         
chlorpyrifos DURSBAN      methiocarb MESUROL        polymer-encapsulated
                                                    methyl parathion
                                                    PENNCAP-M
                 RELATIVE TOXICITY OF PESTICIDES TO HONEYBEES
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group 1 (Continued)- Highly Toxic 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

crotoxyphos CIODRIN       methamidophos MONITOR     propargite OMITE  
diazinon SPECTRACIDE      methidathion SUPRACIDE    propoxur BAYGON 
dichlorvos, technicalDDVP methomyl LANNATE, NUDRIN  resmethrin (SBP-1382)
dicrotophos BIDRIN        methyl parathion          sulprofos BOLSTAR
dimethoate DE-FEND        mevinphos PHOSDRIN        tepp

1Reference:  Johansen, C.A. 1979.  Bee World 60(3):  109-27 and "Protecting 
Honey Bees From Pesticides," Leaflet 2883, Univ. of California, Sept. 1977.
2Applications of these materials late in the evening, at night, or early 
morning when bees are not foraging will reduce the bee hazard.
              RELATIVE TOXICITY OF PESTICIDES TO HONEYBEES (cont)

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group 2-Moderately Toxic:  These can be used around bees if dosage, timing, 
and method of application are correct, but should not be applied directly on 
bees in the field or at the colonies.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
aspon ASP-51               endrin                     ronnel KORLAN
binapacryl                 ethion                     sabadilla
carbaryl SEVIN 4 OIL , 
SEVINMOL                   ethoprop MOCAP             stirofos RABON
carbophenothion TRITHION   ethylan PERTHANE           summer oil
chlorfenvinphos SUPONA     fonofos DYFONATE           TDE
coumaphos CO-RAL           formetanate CARZOL         temephos ABATE
demeton SYSTOX             methoxychlor               terbufos COUNTER 
dichlofenthion             oxamyl VYDATE              toxaphene
dioxathion DELNAV          oxydemeton-methyl
                           META-SYSTOX R2             trichlorfon DYLOX
disulfoton DI-SYSTON       phosalone ZOLONE           trichloronate AGRITOX
endosulfan THIODAN
              RELATIVE TOXICITY OF PESTICIDES TO HONEYBEES (cont)

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group 3-Relatively Nontoxic:  These can be used around bees with a minimum of 
injury.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                 INSECTICIDES

allethrin                  ethephon ETHREL               pentac
Bacillus thuringiensis     fenson MURVESCO               plictran
baculovirus heliothis      heliothis plyhedrosis virus   propargite OMITE
carbaryl SEVIN  4XLR       malathion (low concentrate)   pyrethrins
chlordimeform FUNDAL       menazon SAPHOS                rotenone
chlorobenzilate ACARABEN   methoprene ALTOSID            ryania RYANODINE
cryolite                   methoxychlor MARLATE          sulfur
dialifor TORAK             neotran                       tetradifon TEDION
dicofol KELTHANE           niotine                       tetram
diflubenzuron DIMILIN      ovex                          vendex
dioxathion DELNAV          oxythioquinox MORESTAN   

              RELATIVE TOXICITY OF PESTICIDES TO HONEYBEES (cont)

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group 3 (Continued)-Relatively Nontoxic 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                  FUNGICIDES 

anilazine DYRENE           cuprous oxide                 mancozeb DITHANE
benomyl BENLATE            dazomet MYLONE                maneb DITHANE
bordeaux mixture           diathianon DELAN              metriam POLYRAM
captafol DIFOLATAN         dichlone PHYGON               nabam DITHANE
captan ORTHOCIDE           dinocap KARATHANE             oxycarboxin PLANTVAX
carboxin VITAVAX           dodine CYPREX                 sulfur
chlorothalonil BRAVO       fenaminosulf DEXON            thioquinox ERADEX
copper oxychloride sulfate fentin hydroxide DU-TER       thiram ARASAN
copper 8-quinolinate       ferbam                        zineb DITHANE
copper sulfate             folpet PHALTAN                ziram ZERLATE
cupric hydroxide KOCIDE    glydodin GLYOXIDE     
              RELATIVE TOXICITY OF PESTICIDES TO HONEYBEES (cont)

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group 3 (Continued)-Relatively Nontoxic
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                     HERBICIDES, DEFOLIANTS AND DESICCANTS  
                        
alachlor LASSO              dicamba BANVEL               naptalam ALANAP
amitrole                    dichlorbenil CASORON         nitralin PLANAVIN
AMS AMMATE                  dichlorprop (2,4-DP)         oryzalin SURFLAN
benefin BALAN               difenzoquate AVENGE          oxadiazon RONSTAR
bifenox MODOWN              dinitrobutylphenyl (DNBP)    paraquat
bromacil HYVAR              dipropetryn SANCAP           phenmedipham BETANAL
butylate SUTAN              diquat                       picloram TORDON
cacodylic acid              diuron KARMEX                prometone PRAMITOL
CDAA RANDOX                 endothall ENDOTHAL           proamide KERB
chloramben AMIBEN           EPTC EPTAM                   prometryne CAPOROL
chlorbromuron MALORAN       EXD HERBISAN                 propachlor RAMROD
chloropropham CHLORO IPC    fluometuron COTORAN          propham (IPC)

              RELATIVE TOXICITY OF PESTICIDES TO HONEYBEES (cont)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group 3 (Continued)-Relatively Nontoxic
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                     HERBICIDES, DEFOLIANTS AND DESICCANTS  

chloroxuron TENORAN         fluorodifen PREFORAN         silvex
cyanazine BLADEX            folex                        simazine PRINCEP
2,4-D                       isopropalin PAARLAN          2,4,5-T
2,4-DB                      linuron LOROX                2,3,6-TBA TRYSBEN
dalapon                     MCPA                         terbacil SINBAR
DEF                         MSMA DOCONATE                terbutryn IGRAN
DSMA METHAR                 metribuzin SENCOR            trifluralin TREFLAN
desmedipham BENTHANAL AM    monuron TELVAR
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTION                            
-DOC-

                            ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTION
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Environmental pollution, as used here, refers to unwanted pesticide 
chemicals in the air, soil, water and vegetation.  In a broader sense, the 
accumulation and storage of pesticides in plant and animal life also can be 
considered environmental pollution.

    As the population of the world increases, our environment could be 
polluted to an even greater extent.  The increased use of pesticides may 
contribute to this condition.  A better understanding of the fate of these 
chemicals after they have been released into the environment and more care in 
the application and disposal of excess materials may bring about a reduction 
of environmental pollution.  To accomplish this, those who use or apply 
pesticides should be familiar with the following:
   * Which elements of our environment are contaminated.
   * The extent and degree of such contaminations.
   * What practices are contributing to it.
   * Which of the pesticides in present use cause the greatest degree of 
pollution.
ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTION (cont)

   * What can be done to reduce or eliminate these problems.
   * Which pesticides pose the greatest hazards to people, plants, domestic 
animals, beneficial organisms, and wildlife.
   * What can be done to correct a residue problem after it exists.
Much of this information is discussed in this handbook.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AIR POLLUTANTS                                
-DOC-

                                AIR POLLUTANTS
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Recent problems with toxic gases at Bhopal, India, and in the United 
States have focused attention on toxic airborne chemicals.  The commercial 
pest control industry has real problems today with actual and perceived 
contamination of homes from termite treatments.  We have had several incidents 
in South Carolina, and more are likely to occur.  With no national air 
standards (only National Academy of Science Guidelines for certain of the 
termiticides), the pesticide and pest control industry faces an uncertain 
future.  This is a serious problem that must be addressed by research (what 
are safe air levels for commonly used pesticides?), more precise application 
(better trained applicators), and tighter enforcement of laws and regulations.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WATER POLLUTANTS                               
-DOC-

                               WATER POLLUTANTS
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Pesticides as water pollutants may present a difficult problem, for they 
occur in water both as intentional and unintentional additives.  Intentional 
applications are made to control aquatic organisms, including trash fish, 
mosquitoes and gnats, algae, snails, and weeds.  Unintentional pollution of 
water by pesticides has resulted from drift; drainage from treated fields 
(both surface and subsurface), forests or rangelands; and from accidental 
applications over canals and streams.

    One of the important considerations in the pollution of water is the 
possible concentration of pesticides in the bodies of aquatic organisms, 
either by direct absorption of the contaminant from the water or through the 
food chain.  This latter phenomenon is referred to as "biological 
magnification" or "bioconcentration."  The side effect is very important and 
should be considered whenever pesticides are used near an aquatic environment.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOIL POLLUTANTS                                
-DOC-

                                SOIL POLLUTANTS
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Soil pollution is also assuming greater and greater importance as we learn 
more about the persistence of certain chemicals in the soil.  Some materials 
may remain in the soil for a number of years and constantly present the 
possibility of polluting crops or water.  This type of problem may result on 
certain soil types from frequent or excess soil applications of persistent 
materials or repeated applications to crops growing in certain areas.  
Recognizing this situation, the solution is to select and use chemicals that 
have the least potential for accumulation in the soil.

    Some pesticides (for example, toxaphene) have been discovered in the soil 
and groundwater.  This is of great concern to agriculturalists and 
environmentalists.  The Department of Health and Environmental Control (DHEC) 
is the agency in South Carolina responsible for the enforcement of laws and 
regulations regarding pesticides and/or toxic wastes in the environment.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PESTICIDE RESIDUES-FOOD AND FEED                       
-DOC-

                       PESTICIDE RESIDUES-FOOD AND FEED
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Pesticide residues may, in the broad sense, be considered another side 
effect.  They may result from direct application of a chemical to crops or 
animals, or they may occur by their accidental presence as pollutants in the 
environment.

    Although residues of certain pesticide chemicals are permitted on various 
foods  under the regulations of the Food and Drug Administration, we should 
strive to keep the residues of all chemicals on food commodities to a minimum 
by using materials or methods of application that will do the job of control, 
yet leave the least amount of residue on the food or feed.

PESTICIDE RESIDUES-FOOD AND FEED (cont)

    The following publications provided much of the information on harmful 
side effects of pesticides and safety information used in this manual:

    Insect Control Guide, Florida Agricultural Extension Service, Institute of 
Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida 
(July 1968).

    Pesticide Information and Safety Manual, University of California, 
Agricultural Extension Service - Agricultural Experiment Station, Berkeley, 
California (July 1968).  

    Poisons in Your Home, Sponsored by "Poisons in Your Home" Task Force, 
Northeast Regional Pesticide Coordinators, Virginia.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SAFETY IN HANDLING PESTICIDES                         
-DOC-
                         SAFETY IN HANDLING PESTICIDES
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Pesticides by their very nature are poisonous to people, other animals, 
and sometimes plants.  A poisonous or toxic compound becomes dangerous when it 
is improperly or carelessly used.  Poisonous compounds may be used safely when 
used at concentrations, rates, and with methods of application for which they 
are recommended.

    When the following steps are observed, misuse will seldom if ever occur:
    1.  Properly identify the pest problem and determine what pesticide to 
use.  Seek an expert's advice if in doubt.
    2.  Apply the recommended material according to the labeled instructions.
    3.  Store pesticides in their original labeled containers in a locked 
storage area out of the reach of children, pets, and livestock.
    4.  Dispose of empty containers promptly, safely and according to the law.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GENERAL PRECAUTIONS IN HANDLING PESTICIDES                  
-DOC-

                  GENERAL PRECAUTIONS IN HANDLING PESTICIDES
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    *   Read the manufacturer's label carefully and completely, paying 
particular attention to the precautions and antidotes.
    *   Wear clean protective clothing and equipment as specified on the 
label.
    *   Remove clothes after using poisonous chemicals and bathe with plenty 
of soap and water.  Wash work clothes before using again.  (See section on 
Cleaning Pesticide-Contaminated Clothing that follows.)
    *   Do not eat, drink, or smoke while handling or applying pesticides.
    *   Avoid ingesting or inhaling pesticides.
    *   Insofar as possible, avoid contact of the insecticides with the skin.
    *   Make a habit of washing your hands often.  Be sure to wash your hands 
before eating, drinking, or smoking.
    *   If concentrates or highly toxic pesticides are spilled on the skin or 
clothing, remove the clothing at once and wash the skin thoroughly with soap 
and water.
    *   Always mix pesticides in an open area where ventilation is adequate; 
never mix pesticides in an enclosed area.
    *   Use only recommended materials at recommended rates and by recommended 
methods of application.  Never use a pesticide for a purpose not specifically 
stated on the label.
    *   Notify nearby beekeepers before applying insecticides.
    *   Repair sprayers with leaking hoses or connections before use.
    *   Never use the hands and arms to stir pesticides or to reach into a 
container of pesticides to retrieve tools or other items dropped into them.
    *   Never allow drift onto neighboring fields, especially pasture and 
forage crops or fields containing produce ready to harvest.
    *   Never contaminate fish ponds, streams, or lakes.
    *   When application equipment is not being used, keep it in an area where 
children and livestock cannot get to it.  Wash spray equipment after each use
to avoid hazardous accumulation.
    *   Collect wash water when cleaning up spray equipment by using a catch 
basin or sump.  Use the wash water as diluent for sprays when practical (for 
example, termite treatment); otherwise disperse wash water over treated area.
    *   Store pesticides in the original labeled containers away from food, 
feed, or medicine, and out of reach of children, pets, and livestock.
    *   Never guess at what is in the pesticide container.  If the label has 
been damaged or removed on household or small package products, discard the 
entire container with its contents as solid waste (household garbage).  
Unidentified large volumes of pesticide will likely require testing to 
determine identity and disposal method.
    *   Dispose of empty pesticide containers according to label instructions.
    *   Call a doctor or get the patient to a hospital immediately if the 
symptoms of poisoning occur during or shortly after spraying or dusting.  
Carry the pesticide label or labeled containers with you.
    *   Never spray directly into the wind or directly overhead.
    *   Clean respirators between operations by washing and replacing filters 
or filter cartridges at intervals recommended by the manufacturer.
    *   Spray crews regularly using highly toxic organophosphate or carbamate 
pesticides should receive cholinesterase tests before spraying begins and at 
10-day intervals thereafter.
    *   If you plan to apply any of the more dangerous pesticides, make sure 
that your physician knows the types of compounds you are using, the effects of 
and treatments for poisoning by these pesticides, and also has access to the 
drugs needed in an emergency.  If your physician should provide you with a 
supply of atropine tablets for organic phosphorus poisoning, do not take them 
before definite symptoms occur.  If you ever take atropine tablets, call your 
physician as soon afterward as possible.  Any person who is ill enough to 
receive a single dose of atropine should be kept under medical observation for 
24 hours, because atropine may produce only temporary relief of symptoms in 
what may prove to be serious case of poisoning.  Keep atropine tablets away 
from children.  

     Call your Poison Control Centers for detailed information on antidotes, 
etc.  A listing of S.C. Poison Control Centers is given on page 317088.

    *   Airplane pilots applying pesticides should never help in mixing or 
loading operations.  Avoiding such operations will reduce their total 
exposure.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING*           
-DOC-

           RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING*
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

1.  ORGANOPHOSPHATE CHOLINESTERASE-INHIBITING PESTICIDES: Toxicants of this 
class almost irreversibly chemically neutralize (phosphorylate) 
acetylcholinesterase enzyme, thus allowing accumulation of acetylcholine at 
nerve junctions.  The toxicant produces paralysis and eventual death by 
suffocation unless treated.  These toxicants can be absorbed by inhalation, 
ingestion, and skin penetration.

    SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS--Headache, dizziness, extreme weakness, tiny (pinpoint) 
pupils, muscle twitching are typical symptoms of poisoning by organic 
pesticides.  Also nausea, tightness of the chest causing breathing difficulty, 
and sweating are additional symptoms of OP poisoning.

    ANTIDOTES:  Atropine Sulfate, Pralidoxime (2-PAM), Diazepam (suggested 
anti-convulsant).
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING (cont)

2.  CARBAMATE CHOLINESTERASE-INHIBITING PESTICIDES: Carbamate toxicants cause 
reversible carbamylation of acetylcholinesterase enzyme which allows 
accumulation of acetylcholine at nerve junctions.  Certain carbamate 
pesticides are highly toxic (more so than many OP materials) and must be 
considered very hazardous despite the reversible carbamyl-enzyme 
disassociation.  Carbamate poisoning produces effects on the nervous system 
and musculature similar to OP pesticides.  Carbamate pesticides are absorbed 
by inhalation, ingestion, and skin penetration.

    SIGNS AND SUMPTOMS--Same as for OP COMPOUNDS.
    ANTIDOTES:  Atropine sulfate only.  2-PAM is of little value in carbamate 
poisoning.  Diazepam (suggested anti-convulsant).

3.  CHLORINATED HYDROCARBON PESTICIDES: These chemicals interfere with trans- 
mission of nerve impulses and generally disrupt the function of the nervous 
system to include the brain.  Poisoning usually results in behavioral changes, 
sensory and equilibrium disturbances, involuntary muscle activity, and 
depression of vital centers, especially respiration.  Absorption through the 
skin and oral ingestion are probably the most common means of poisoning.
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING 
3.  CHLORINATED HYDROCARBON PESTICIDES: (cont)

    SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS--Apprehension, dizziness, headache, weakness, 
twitching, convulsions, respiratory depression and coma are typical symptoms.  
Ingestion orally may result in convulsions, tremors as first symptoms.
    ANTIDOTES: Diazepam (suggested anti-convulsant) or Pentobarbital.  For 
ingested poisoning promote emesis (with syrup of ipecac) followed by 30 gm 
activated charcoal (to absorb remaining toxicant in gut).

4.  PYRETHRINS AND SYNTHETIC PYRETHROID PESTICIDES (pyrethrins, allethrins, 
permethrin, cypermethrin, fenvalerate, resmethrin, etc.):  Generally, these 
compounds are classified as mild nerve poisons with a wide range of mammelian 
toxicity ratings, depending on species and compound.  For instance, the acute 
oral toxicity (LD 50 mg/kg) to the male guinea pig is >4,000 mg/kg for both 
permethrin and cypermethrin, but for female rats it is >4,000 mg/kg for 
permethrin and 250 mg/kg for cypermethrin.  The modes of action for these 
compounds are not well understood.  Sublethal doses of permethrin (1,000 mg/kg 
fed daily for 10 days) caused no toxic signs, abnormalities, or deaths.  Some 
synthetic pyrethroids are classified as mild to severe eye irritants and mild 
skin sensitizers.
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING 

4.  PYRETHRINS AND SYNTHETIC PYRETHROID PESTICIDES (pyrethrins, allethrins, 
permethrin, cypermethrin, fenvalerate, resmethrin, etc.): (cont)

    SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS--A stuffy, runny nose and scratchy throat may result 
from inhalating the agents.  Nervous irritability, tremors, and coordination 
difficulty (ataxia) have occurred in persons exposed to massive doses by 
inhalation.

    ANTIDOTE/TREATMENT:  In case of skin or eye contact, flush eyes with large 
amounts of water.  Remove contaminated clothing.  If large amounts of 
pyrethrin or pyrethroid formulation have been ingested, the stomach must be 
evacuated.  Induce vomiting with syrup of ipecac and observe closely for loss 
of consciousness.  Intubate the stomach (insert tube) immediately if con- 
sciousness level declines or vomiting has not occurred within 15 minutes.  
Following emesis (vomiting), have victim drink a 30-50 gm suspension of 
activated charcoal to limit absorption of remaining toxicant.
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING (cont)

5.  DIPYRIDYLS (Paraquat, Diquat, Morfamquat, etc.):  The highly polar 
dipyridyls are strongly absorbed by plant tissue and soil particles.  
Concentrates are more likely to cause poisoning than the diluted product.  The 
dipyridyls cause injury to the epithelial tissues of th skin, nails, eyes, 
nose, mouth, and respiratory and gastrointestinal tracts. Diquat is 
substantially less toxic than paraquat.
    SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS--Following ingestin, the earliest symptoms are due to 
irritation of the gastrointestinal tract causing oral and abdominal pain.  
Vomiting and diarrhea may occur.  Often after 48 to 72 hours, systemic damage 
signs may appear to include urinary difficulty and bloody urine.  Prolonged 
symptoms (possibly up to 14 days) may include labored breathing, coughing, and 
rapid heart beat.  Fluid accumulation in the lungs (pneumonia like) often 
progresses to death.
    ANTIDOTES: Measures must be taken to limit absorption from the gastro- 
intestinal tract and to accelerate excretion of material already absorbed.  
Stomach lavage (washing out) followed by an absorbent slurry (bentonite, 
fuller's earth, etc.) is suggested.  After 1 hour induce bowel movement with 
cathartic.  Repeat absorbent dosage every 4 hours for at least 12 doses.  
Institute regimen of forced diuresis.
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING (cont)

6.  CHLOROPHENOXY COMPOUNDS (2,4-D etc.):  The chlorophenoxy compounds are 
mildly to severely irritating to skin, eyes, and respiratory and 
gastrointestinal linings.  These compounds have low toxic potential for most 
individuals.  Human subjects have tolerated 0.5 g doses for 2-4 weeks without 
adverse effects.  Large doses of 2,4-D to experimental animals produced 
vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss, ulceration of mouth and pharynx, and injury 
to liver, kidneys, and central nervous system.  These compounds are absorbed 
through the skin, lung, and gut wall.  Prolonged dermal contact results in 
local skin depigmentation (loss of skin color).

    SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS--Skin irritation following excessive contact.  Burning 
sensation and coughing from inhalation.  Ingestion results in vomiting and 
abdominal pain.

    ANTIDOTE OR TREATMENT:  Wash chemical from skin or slush from eyes.  
Induce vomiting if victim (who has swallowed material) has not spontaneously 
vomited.  Administer absorbent (activated charcoal) to limit further 
absorption of toxicant.
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING (cont)

7.  NITROPHENOLIC HERBICIDES (Dinoseb, etc.):  These materials are highly 
toxic to humans and animals from skin and gut absorption and inhalation.  The 
nitrophenols are toxic to the liver, kidney, and nervous system.  Toxicity 
results from stimulation of cellular oxidative metabolism with subsequent 
depletion of body carbohydrates and fats.

    SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS--Yellow staining of skin, white of the eye, and urine 
signifies significant contact.  Profuse sweating, headache, thirst are common 
early symptoms.  Flushed skin, fever, and rapid heartbeat characterize serious 
poisoning.

    ANTIDOTE OR TREATMENT:  Decontaminate skin, hair, etc., with soap and 
water.  Flush eyes.  Systemic poisoning requires reduction of body 
temperature, oxygen, intravenous fluids, and use of sedatives.  If ingested, 
empty stomach.  Following emesis, administer activated charcoal to bind 
toxicant remaining in gut.
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING (cont)

8.  PENTACHLOROPHENOLS (PCP):  Pentachlorophenol is absorbed by the skin, gut 
lining, and lung.  Its toxic effects result from action similar to the 
dinitrophenols.  Most serious poisonings occur to workers exposed in hot 
environments.

    SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS--Irritation of nose, throat, eyes, and skin is most 
common symptom after exposure to PCP.  Except that yellow staining does not 
occur, symptoms are similar to nitrophenol poisoning.  Typically, symptoms do 
not appear until blood and urine concentrations of PCP reach 1,000 ppb.

    ANTIDOTE OR TREATMENT:  Similar to treatment for dinitrophenol poisoning.

9.  UREA, URICIL, AND TRIAZINES (herbicides):  Adverse effects have occurred 
rarely as result of human contact with this group of herbicides.  Most serious 
injuries have been skin irritation.  At very high dosages, test animals have 
suffered damage to kidneys, liver, and central nervous system.  These 
compounds can be absorbed across the skin, gut and lungs.  They are quickly 
metabolized and excreted.
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING 
9.  UREA, URICIL, AND TRIAZINES (herbicides) (cont)

    SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS--Irritation of skin from prolonged contact is a typical 
symptom.  Nausea and vomiting can be expected from ingestion.

    ANTIDOTE OR TREATMENT:  Flush or wash skin and eyes.  Treatment for 
ingestion of these compounds is similar to that suggested for nitrophenols and 
pentaphenols.

10. ACETANILIDE, ACETAMIDE, CARBANILATE, AND ANILIDE HERBICIDES:  These 
compounds exhibit low mammalian toxicity.  Skin irritation or sensitization may 
occur for some individuals.  Adverse effects from accidental ingestion by 
humans have not been reported.  Systemic toxicity of these compounds appears 
likely only at high dosage levels.

    SIGNS AND SUMPTOMS--Skin irritation or sensitization from repeated contact 
might be expected.  Nausea, abdominal distress from ingestion is likely.

    ANTIDOTE OR TREATMENT:  Flush or wash skin and eyes.  Induce emesis if 
dosage is known to exceed 10 mgm/kg body weight.  Limit gut absorption with 
activated charcoal.
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING (cont)

11. DIMETHYLDITHIOCARBAMATE COMPOUNDS (fungicides):  This class of compounds 
is generally known as irritants and sensitizers.  These fungicides are metab- 
olized in a manner similar to disulfiram, a potent neurotoxin.  Actually, 
toxic systemic effects to these fungicides have been rare.  Systemic effects 
for this class of compounds depends on whether the absorption of the toxicant 
alone or in combination with alcohol was involved.  Systemic effects from the 
toxicant alone (central nervous system damage, necrosis of spleen, liver and 
kidney) probably is caused by the metabolite carbon disulfide.  Illness from 
alcohol/disulfiram interaction is due to the inhibition of liver enzymes 
necessary to oxidize acetaldehyde to acetic acid.  This can lead to shock and 
possible heart failure.

    SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS--Itching and redness of skin have resulted when 
sensitive persons contact these compounds.  Inhalation of airborne fungicides 
may result in upper respiratory congestion, hoarseness, cough, and lung 
inflammation (pneumonitis).
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING (cont)

    Following ingestion of large amounts of these compounds, nausea, vomiting, 
and diarrhea occur.  This is followed by lowering of body temperature, loss of 
coordination, muscle weakness progressing to paralysis, and respiratory 
failure.

    The reaction to alcohol/disulfiram results in flushed skin, sweating, 
pounding headache, rapid heartbeat, and respiratory distress (asthma-like).  
Severe reactions result in shock, unconsciousness, convulsions, and heart 
failure.

    ANTIDOTE OR TREATMENT:  Wash exposed skin with soap and water.  Remove 
sensitive individuals from contact with this type chemical.  
    For ingestion (NOT INVOLVING ALCOHOL) induce vomiting.  Follow with 
activated charcoal absorbent.

    When alcohol is involved, administer 100% oxygen to counter respiratory 
distress; then treat to eliminate toxicant from system.  Vitamin C has some 
antidotal value against unreacted dithiocarbamate compound and is useful in 
treating adults and children over 12 years of age.
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING (cont)

12. ANTICOAGULANT RODENTICIDES (coumarin, indandione types):  absorption 
through the gut is normal route of exposure.  Both anticoagulants depress the 
hepatic synthesis of blood-clotting substances.  The indandione anticoagulants 
(unlike the coumarins) produce damage to the heart, lungs, and nervous system 
in test animals.  Such symptoms have not been reported in human poisonings.

    SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS--Hemorrhage occurs in humans only after large amounts 
have been deliberately ingested.  Weakness as a result of anemia could be 
expected.

    ANTIDOTE AND TREATMENT: Administration of Vitamin K.  Dose dependent on 
prothrombin time.  Induce emesis and limit absorption in gut with activated 
charcoal absorbent.
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING (cont)

13. ARSENICAL PESTICIDES (organic, inorganic):  The organic arsenicals (MSMA, 
etc.) are generally less toxic than then inorganic arsenicals (sodium 
arsenite, etc.).  However, even the organic arsenicals to some degree reduce 
to trivalent forms in the gut.  Most poisoning from arsenicals is through 
ingestion.  Absorbed trivalent arsenicals produce injury to the liver, kidney, 
bone marrow, brain and nervous system.

    SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS--Following ingestion, burning, pain, vomiting, and 
watery or bloody diarrhea may be expected.  Headache, dizziness, muscle 
spasms,delirium, and convulsions may follow.  A garlic odor to the breath and 
feces is typical of arsenic.

    ANTIDOTE OR TREATMENT:  Flush contaminated skin, hair and eyes.  Following 
ingestion, evacuate stomach (stomach pump).  Avoid aspiration of vomitus.  
Neutralize remaining toxicant in gut with activated charcoal.  Treat for shock 
(with oxygen and blood transfusions).  Accelerate toxicant excretion with 
intravenous electrolyte and glucose solutions.  Administer 10% Dimecaprol 
(British antilewisite) intramuscularly to neutralize toxic actions of 
arsenicals.
RECOGNITION OF SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PESTICIDE POISONING (cont)

References:
Morgan, Donald P. 1982.  Recognition and Management of Pesticide Poisonings. 
Third Edition.  EPA, Office of Pesticide Programs, Washington, D.C. 20460. 
(Dr. Morgan is director, Iowa Pesticide Hazard Assessment Project, University 
of Iowa Medical School, Iowa City, Iowa 52240.) "Synthetic Pyrethroids" 
Reference Tech. Data Sheets, ICI Americas, Inc. Wilmington, DL  19897 and 
"Synthetic Pyrethroids," Michael Elliott, ACS Symposium Series 42, 1977.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
*This is a general discussion of the toxic effects and treatment of the more 
important pesticide groups.  All emergency rooms in South Carolina have been 
furnished copies of Dr. Morgan's pesticide poisoning guide.  Always consult a 
physician for treatment of pesticide poisoning cases.  Never administer 
antidotes without medical assistance.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF FUMIGANTS (R)                     
-DOC-

                     PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF FUMIGANTS (R)
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator
_______________________________________________________________________________

            Chemical  Boiling  Specific  Flammability 
Fumigant   Formula(a)  Point  Gravity(b) Limits in Air      Odor
_______________________________________________________________________________

(a) Molecular weights shown below chemical formulas.
(b) Air = 1; anything greater is heavier than air.
_______________________________________________________________________________

Acrylo-      CH2CH.CN  77oC    1.83      3 to 17% by   Mild pungent odor 
Nitrite                165oF             volume        resembling that of
             53.064                                    peach seed kernels.

EFFECTS ON METALS:  Corrosive.

REMARKS:  Flammability high - mixed with carbon tetrachloride 34 to 66%.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

            Chemical  Boiling  Specific  Flammability 
Fumigant   Formula(a)  Point  Gravity(b) Limits in Air      Odor
_______________________________________________________________________________

Carbon       CS2       46.3oC  1.26      1.25 to 44%   Almost odorless when
disulfide              115oF             by volume     pure. Impurities nor-
             76.131                                    mally present will 
                                                       give a disagreeable 
                                                       odor.

EFFECTS ON METALS:  Commercial grade may be slighly corrosive to some metals
because of impurities.

REMARKS:  Mixed with nonflammable chemicals, especially carbon tetrachloride.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
            Chemical  Boiling  Specific  Flammability 
Fumigant   Formula(a)  Point  Gravity(b) Limits in Air      Odor
_______________________________________________________________________________
Carbon       CCL4      76.8oC  1.59      Nonflammable  Moderately strong
tetra-                 165oF                           ethereal odor similar
chloride     153.823                                   to other chlorinated
                                                       solvents and chloro-
                                                       form.

EFFECTS ON METALS: Noncorrosive when dry.  Will corrode iron and certain other 
metals when in contact with water and at a very high temperature.
REMARKS: Used in mixtures to reduce flammability of other fumigants and as a 
carrier for better penetration.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chloropicrin CCL3      1112oC  1.651     Nonflammable  Strongly irritating
             NO2       234oF                           tear gas.
             164.375

EFFECTS ON METALS:  Corrosive in the presence of moisture.
REMARKS:  Evolved by evaporation from pure compound or mixed with CCL4.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
            Chemical  Boiling  Specific  Flammability 
Fumigant   Formula(a)  Point  Gravity(b) Limits in Air      Odor
_______________________________________________________________________________
Ethylene     (CH2)2O   13oC    0.882     3 to 80% by   Pleasant, ether-like.
oxide        44.053    55.0oF            volume

EFFECTS ON METALS:  Noncorrosive.
REMARKS: Discharged from grounded cylinders.  Mixed with carbon dioxide or 
freon in program operations.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hydrogen     HCN       26.5oC  0.94      5.6 to 41%    Almond-like or bitter
cyanide                79oF              by volume     almonds.
(hydrocyanic 27.076
acid)

EFFECTS ON METALS:  Not particularly corrosive to most metals.
REMARKS:  Discharged from cylinders with use of compressed air.  Evaporated 
from porous discs or evolved by moisture acting on calcium cyanide or 
sulphuric acid on sodium cyanide.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

            Chemical  Boiling  Specific  Flammability 
Fumigant   Formula(a)  Point  Gravity(b) Limits in Air      Odor
_______________________________________________________________________________

Methyl       CH3Br     4.5oC   1.73      Normally non- No odor at low concen-
bromide      94.944    40.1oF            flammable.    tration. Strong musty
                                         Flame propa-  or sweet at high con-
                                         gation at     centrations.
                                         13.5 to 14.5%
                                         by volume only
                                         in the pres-
                                         ence of an 
                                         intense source 
                                         of ignition.

EFFECTS ON METALS:  Reacts with aluminum, may damage electronic equipment.

REMARKS:  Discharged from cylinders, 1 lb cans or 20 ml glass ampoules.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

            Chemical  Boiling  Specific  Flammability 
Fumigant   Formula(a)  Point  Gravity(b) Limits in Air      Odor
_______________________________________________________________________________
Phosphine    PH3       -87.4oC 1.214     1.79% by      Garlic-like or carbide
                       -126oF            volume        due to impurities.
             33.998

EFFECTS ON METALS: Copper, brass, gold, and silver severely damaged; 
electronic equipment damaged.  Other metals slightly affected in high 
humidity.

REMARKS:  Evolved from aluminum phosphide preparations.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sulfuryl     SO2F2     -55.2oC 1.7       Nonflammable  None
fluoride     102.054   -67oF

EFFECTS ON METALS:  Noncorrosive.
REMARKS:  Discharged from cylinders.
______________________________________________________________________________

NOTE: Almost all uses of the above-listed fumigants are restricted (R).
      Cannister-type, full-face gas masks approved for the specific chemical 
      must be used. (Gas Mask Section on page 317066)



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GAS MASK CANISTER SELECTION FOR FUMIGANTS                   
-DOC-

                   GAS MASK CANISTER SELECTION FOR FUMIGANTS
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator
______________________________________________________________________________
                                       GAS MASK CANISTER-      TLV (Threshold
FUMIGANT                               COLOR CODE              Limit Value)
______________________________________________________________________________

Ethylene dibromide (EDB)               Black - Organic Vapor   20 ppm (skin)*
Ethylene oxide-carbon dioxide (EO-CD)  Black - Organic Vapor   50 ppm
Methyl bromide (MB)                    Black - Organic Vapor   15 ppm (skin)*
Hydrogen cyanide (HCN)                 White                   10 ppm (skin)*
Sulfuryl fluoride (SF)                 White                    5 ppm
Phosphine (PH)                         Black with an orange   0.3 ppm
                                       band completely around

*Skin means the potential overall exposure includes absorption through the 
skin and mucous membranes.
______________________________________________________________________________

                                 Manufacturers
______________________________________________________________________________

Acme Products                                  Mine Safety Appliance Company
1201 Kalamazoo Street                          201 North Braddock Blvd.
South Haven, MI  49090                         Pittsburg, PA  15201

Willson Products, Inc.                         Welsh A. Textron Co.
P. O. Box 622                                  2000 Plainfield Pike
Reading, PA  19603                             Cranston, RI  02920
______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EXPLANATION OF TOXICITY VALUES FOR PESTICIDES                 
-DOC-

                 EXPLANATION OF TOXICITY VALUES FOR PESTICIDES
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    The Environmental Protection Agency has established four toxicity cate- 
gories based on the LD50 and Eye and Skin effects of the various pesticides.  
The user's key to these toxicity categories is the signal words present on 
the front panel of the pesticide label.  The following table summarizes 
these toxicity categories.

    Toxicity values are usually expressed as the acute oral LD50 in terms of 
milligrams of the toxicant per kilogram (mg/kg) of body weight of the test 
animal; or acute dermal LD50 in terms of mg/kg; or inhalation data LC50 in 
terms of micrograms of mist or dust per liter of air (  g) equals one 
millionth of a gram.
    LD means lethal dose and LD50 means lethal dose that will kill 50 percent 
of a large population of test animals.  LC means lethal concentration and LC50 
means lethal concentration that will kill 50 percent of a large population of 
test animals.  "Acute oral" refers to a single dose taken by mouth or 
ingested.  "Acute dermal" refers to a single dose applied directly to the skin 
(skin absorption).  "Inhalation" refers to exposure through breathing or 
inhaling.

    PESTICIDES AND FISH TOXICITY--Fish toxicity is usually measured as parts 
per million (PPM).  To determine the amount of pesticide to produce the LC50 
in PPM, multiply the PPM value in the Toxicity Tables x 2.72 (2.72 million 
pounds of water in acre foot, thus 2.72 lb = 1 PPM).
    

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TABLE OF TOXICITY CATEGORIES                         
-DOC-

                         TABLE OF TOXICITY CATEGORIES
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator
______________________________________________________________________________

HAZARD INDICATORS
       I                  II                  III                   IV
______________________________________________________________________________

Oral LD50

  0-50 mg/kg          50-500 mg/kg         500-5,000 mg/kg     5,000(+) mg/kg
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Inhalation LC50  

  0-0.2 mg/l          0.2-2 mg/l           2-20 mg/l           20(+) mg/l
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dermal LD50

  0-200 mg/kg         200-2000 mg/kg      2,000-20,000 mg/kg   20,000(+) mg/kg
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

HAZARD INDICATORS
       I                  II                  III                   IV
______________________________________________________________________________

Eye effects    

Corrosive: Corneal    Corneal opacity      No corneal opacity.   No irritation
opacity not revers-   reversible w/in 7    Irritation revers- 
ible w/in 7 days      days: Irritation     ible w/in 7 days 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Skin effects

Corrosive             Severe irritation    Moderate irritation  Mild or slight
                      at 72 hours          at 72 hours          irritation at
                                                                72 hours
______________________________________________________________________________

HAZARD INDICATORS
       I                  II                  III                   IV
______________________________________________________________________________

Signal words/symbols  

DANGER/POISON: in      WARNING              CAUTION              CAUTION
large boldfaced 
letters and usually
accompanied by
skull and cross- 
bones symbol
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oral dosage lethal     
to human adults

Few drops to           1 teaspoon to        1 ounce to 1 pint     > 1 pint
1 teaspoon             2 tablespoons
______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PESTICIDE FIRE PROCEDURE                           
-DOC-

                           PESTICIDE FIRE PROCEDURE
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

  I.    Plan for a Fire Emergency
            Planning will be a valuable asset if a fire should occur at your 
        plant, warehouse, or store where large quantities of pesticides are
        stored.  A good plan will:
        *  Provide clear instructions as to what to do during the critical,
           confusing, early minutes of the fire.
        *  Provide fire officials, etc., with a quick summary of the type 
           chemical stored and information on hazards and special firefighting 
           techniques.
        *  Provide EPA, state, and local governmental agencies evidence of 
           company concern (should lessen charges of negligence, etc., if civil
           action/lawsuits follow).
 II.    NACA Preplanning Packet
            The National Agricultural Chemicals Association has a Preplanning 
        and Guidelines Packet for handling pesticide chemical fires.  This 
        packet is available from the National Agricultural Chemicals 
        Association, Madison Building, 1155 Fifteenth St., N.W., Washington,
        DC 20005.  Telephone (202) 296-1585.  Price 25 copies - $5.00.
            This packet provides space for a sketch of the facility and 
        immediate surroundings, site water runoff control, emergency telephone
        numbers of key people to notify, sensitive areas nearby, inventory of
        protective equipment, firefighting tactics, etc.

            It is also a good idea to keep an inventory of pesticides by type
        and amount with the packet and keep it as current as possible.

III.    What To Do in Case of Fire
        A.  Notify a qualified physician to stand by.
        B.  Protect the firefighters.  They should:
            1.  Wear protective clothing over the entire body including rubber
                boots, gloves, hat, and coat and avoid contact with toxic fumes
                or smoke.  Self-contained breathing equipment (air packs) is 
                essential for those exposed to fumes or smoke.
            2.  Be immediately relieved from duty and checked for possible 
                poisoning if exposed to fumes or smoke without adequate 
                protection.
            3.  Wash thoroughly and immediately with large volumes of soap and 
                water if contacted by poisons, such as exploding emulsions or
                powder from ruptured bags, and be checked for poisoning.  Any
                person heavily exposed to phosphates should have treatment 
                begun without waiting for symptoms to occur.  Cholinesterase 
                test should be run after exposure to phosphates.
            4.  Be checked for symptoms of poisoning during the fire.  Among 
                these symptoms are headaches, giddiness, blurred vision, 
                coughing, tightness of chest, salivation twitching, lack of
                further eye pupil contraction when exposed to bright light.
                Symptoms of phosphate poisoning may be mistaken for heat 
                exhaustion or smoke inhalation.
            5.  Avoid smoking, drinking, or eating while firefighting so as not
                to ingest toxic substances.
        C.  Protect employees and nearby residents.
            1.  Evacuate residents downwind of the fire.
            2.  Do not allow unauthorized entry to fire area.
            3.  Have medical check for employees who may have been exposed.
        D.  Fight the fire properly
            1.  Attack fire from upwind side or at right angles.  Do not work
                downwind.  Do not enter building or get in smoke unless wearing
                complete self-contained breathing apparatus.
            2.  Avoid raising a flammable, explosive, or toxic dust.
                a.  Use soft streams such as a fog so as not to tear open paper
                    containers or break jars.
                b.  Foam may be indicated when large volumes of flammable 
                    solvents are released from ruptured metal or glass 
                    container.
                c.  Cool drums containing flammable solvents with water spray.
                d.  Keep safe distance in case of explosion.
            3.  Avoid large volumes of water so that toxic runoff will be kept 
                to a minimum.  If necessary, dike to prevent runoff contami- 
                nation and to contain overflow of burning liquid.
            4.  Sometimes if building is separate and contains highly toxic 
                materials, the safest procedure is to let it burn, under 
                supervision.  Ventilation will aid more complete combustion 
                and reduce dangerous toxic smoke.
            5.  Contaminated area should be roped off and be under continuous
                supervision until cleaning is completed.
 IV.    Cleanup After the Fire
        A.  Personal precautions
            1.  Wash and shower using large volumes of soap and water to 
                remove any traces of toxic chemicals.
            2.  Put on clean clothes.
            3.  If leather-soled shoes were used, check them for absorbed 
                pesticides.  Discard if contaminated; they are difficult to
                decontaminate. 
            4.  Wash all personal clothing, protective clothing, and 
                respirator.  Do not contaminate inside of respirator from 
                chemicals deposited on outside.  Clean protective clothing 
                will be needed each day for the cleanup, and new cartridge
                should be installed in the respirator.
            5.  Be on the lookout for any symptoms of pesticide poisoning.
                They may show up immediately or not for several hours.
        B.  General Rules
            1.  Notify local public health officials.
            2.  Post warning signs and rope off area to prevent unauthorized 
                entry to burned-out area and water runoff area.
            3.  Check with manufacturers fro additional advice and for use of
                expert decontamination team if available.
            4.  Have a person familiar with pesticides direct cleanup 
                operations.
            5.  All personnel should wear protective clothing, including a 
                self-contained breathing apparatus of suitable respirator.  
                Boots, gloves, and goggles are important since phosphates re 
                absorbed directly through the skin and eyes.  Also some 
                carbamates are readily absorbed through the eyes and result in 
                symptoms which may mask the more serious phosphate poisoning.
            6.  No smoking, eating, or drinking permitted in area or before
                washing.
            7.  Be careful not to track pesticides out of area.
        C.  Procedure for cleanup and disposal 
            1.  Neutralize and absorb toxic chemicals.
                a.  Cover toxic chemicals with double their volume of lime, 
                    attaclay, or soda ash, and dampen slightly.  Spray 
                    standing walls, joists, and other surfaces which cannot be
                    readily reached with spray lime mixed at the rate of 50 
                    lb/100 gal of water.  Close off area over-night.
                b.  Neutralize runoff water by adding large quantities of soda 
                    ash.  Pump standing water immediately into tankers for 
                    disposal in approved dumping area.
            2.  Use safe removal procedures.
                a.  Be sure all personnel involved understand toxic nature of
                    debris and are properly clothed and masked. 
                b.  Use mechanized loaders, dump trucks, etc., to minimize 
                    human contact with contaminated material.
                c.  Avoid raising dust.
                d.  Excess liquid should be absorbed on lime, sawdust, or 
                    clay.  Do not wash any material into waterway or sewer 
                    system without official authorization of public health 
                    official.
                e.  Carry debris to approved dumping area in tight metal-
                    bodied dump trucks or tight containers.  Moisten or cover 
                    load with disposal cover if dust is a problem.  Avoid 
                    overload so that no spills will occur en route.
                f.  Grounds or ditch banks contaminated with runoff water
                    should be scraped to a depth of 6 inches, disposed of with
                    the rest of the debris, and replaced with uncontaminted 
                    soil.
                g.  Spills from leaking containers found during cleanup should 
                    be treated with additional lime.
                h.  Decontaminate tools, vehicles, concrete slabs, etc., with
                    solution consisting of 1 quart sodium hypochlorite plus 
                    1 cup detergent in 2 gallons of water; or 5% sodium 
                    carbonate (soda ash) solution plus detergent; or 5% 
                    trisodium phosphate solution plus detergent; scrub 
                    thoroughly and follow with a clean water rinse.
                i.  Inspect surrounding area for possible contamination and
                    leave entire area safe and in usable condition for public.
            3.  Use safe disposal procedures.  Prevent environmental contam- 
                ination.
                a.  Find isolated site suitable for burying debris away from
                    ground or surface water.  Burial site should be on high
                    ground with low water table since low areas are most 
                    likely to contribute to water contamination.  Get approval
                    from the South Carolina Department of Health and Environ- 
                    mental Control.
                b.  Dig pit large enough to hold all debris.  Cover bottom 
                    with generous amount of lime.
                c.  Dump fire debris into pit, adding lime throughout.
                d.  Cover with at least 18 inches of soil, compact, and build
                    up soil over pit so that it will shed water.
                e.  Decontaminate tools and equipment with sodium 
                    hypochlorite-detergent solution described above.  Launder
                    clothing and hang in sun.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SAFETY RULES FOR CLEANUP CREWS IN PESTICIDE-CONTAMINATED AREAS        
-DOC-

        SAFETY RULES FOR CLEANUP CREWS IN PESTICIDE-CONTAMINATED AREAS
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

  I.    Safety Equipment
        A.  All personnel entering designated contamination area will wear
            minimum protective equipment as follows:
            1.  Rubber boots
            2.  Rubber gloves
        B.  When actual movement of pesticide materials is involved, full
            protective equipment must be used including:
            1.  Approved respirator
            2.  Approved rubber suit
            3.  Rubber gloves
            4.  Rubber boots
            5.  Hard hat if working near overhead hazards of crane

 II.    Emergency Action
        A.  Symptoms
            1.  Headache
            2.  Nausea or vomiting
            3.  Diarrhea
            4.  Giddiness, lightheadedness
            5.  Constricted pupils (pupils won't expand or contract)
            6.  Tightness of chest
            7.  Convulsion, twitching
        B.  On the job - if you experience these symptoms on the job, contact
            your supervisor immediately.
        C.  At home
            1.  Do not stay alone overnight after possible exposure to toxic
                agent.
            2.  If you experience any symptoms at home, immediately contact a
                physician and tell of your exposure to pesticides.
            3.  If skin contact occurs with pesticides or water that possibly
                contains pesticides, flush immediately with clear water and 
                then wash thoroughly with large quantities of soap and water.
                Check with supervisor and be sure you are not in danger before
                assuming any additional exposure.
III.    Working Conditions
        A.  No smoking or eating in the contaminated areas.
        B.  Shower completely after work, being sure to wash hair and under 
            nails.
        C.  Put on fresh clean clothing.
        D.  Thoroughly wash hands with soap before eating.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PESTICIDE STORAGE                               
-DOC-
                               PESTICIDE STORAGE
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

    Proper storage of toxic compounds is important in preventing accidents.  
If the following points are observed, proper storage will result.
    
    1.  Place pesticides where they will not contaminate feed, fertilizers, or 
any kind of food.
    2.  Store pesticides in a locked building.  Keep the key from children.
    3.  It is a good idea to keep herbicides in a separate building from other 
pesticides.
    4.  Label storage rooms with DANGER signs.
    5.  Always keep pesticides in the original containers with the labels 
intact.
    6.  Many liquid concentrates are flammable.  Store them to avoid a fire 
hazard.

NOTE:  Manufacturers and dealers of pesticides should get a copy of EPA 
regulations Part 165 of the new FEPCA concerning storage and disposal of 
pesticides.  Of particular importance is Subpart C, Sections 165.7-165.10.







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DISPOSAL, RECYCLING, AND TRIPLE RINSE PROCEDURES               
-DOC-
               DISPOSAL, RECYCLING, AND TRIPLE RINSE PROCEDURES
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

Disposal - Empty Pesticide Containers and Unused Pesticides
    Disposal of unused pesticides and empty pesticide containers is still a
major problem in South Carolina.  The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and
the South Carolina Department of Health and Environmental Control (DHEC)
regulate the disposal of pesticides.  Thus far, the EPA has only given guide-
lines regarding disposal of pesticides and pesticide containers.  EPA projects
that all pesticide labels will have specific disposal instructions.
    DHEC regulations under the South Carolina Pollution Control and Hazardous
Waste Management Acts are extensive and do address a number of pesticides. 
They specifically exempt farmers from much of the paperwork and reporting
regulations if proper disposal procedures are followed.
    For the present, DHEC gives the following guidelines for disposal of unused
pesticides and empty pesticide containers:
    - Disposal of small quantities of unused household pesticides and con-
tainers may be in the manner of other wastes.  No special precautions beyond
the label directions are required.
    - Disposal of all other unused pesticides will be handled on a case-by-case
basis by DHEC; call 734-5200 or write DHEC, Bureau of Solid and Hazardous Waste
Management, 2600 Bull Street, Columbia, South Carolina, 29201.
    - All pesticide containers must be triple rinsed.  Disposal of all triple-
rinsed containers is as follows:  Notify DHEC of (1) the proposed landfill into
which you plan to put the containers, (2) the size of the containers, (3) the
number of containers, (4) the frequency of disposal, and (5) the former
contents of the container.  This is a one time request for approval.  DHEC will
authorize you to dispose of your containers in a county landfill, but you still
must obtain the approval of the landfill operator.  Most county landfills will
want you to bring your containers directly to the landfill site.  However,
check with your county; some may allow you to deposit your containers in the
normal county garbage pickup sites, depending upon amount and size containers. 
    - All metal and glass containers not recycled should be punctured or
crushed, respectively, to prevent reuse.  Paper or fibrous containers present a
special problem because they cannot be triple rinsed.  If the paper bag
is tapped to dislodge any loose pesticide or if the plastic-lined or unlined
bags are rinsed and the bags then are disposed of as detailed above, appli-
cators are in compliance with the appropriate regulation.  You can reduce the
bulk of the materials to be disposed of in an approved landfill by removing the
plastic lining within the paper or fibrous containers; then the uncontaminated
portion could be discarded conventionally.   The following pesticides are DHEC
hazardous wastes.  

Pesticides Which Are DHEC Hazardous Wastes
aldicarb
aldrinallyl alcohol
aluminum phosphide (Note: fumigant)
4-aAminophyridine (Avitrol)
arsenic acid (Osmose K-33-C)
arsenic pentoxide (Note: wood preservative)
calcium cyanide (Degesh Calcium cyanide)
carbon disulfide (Note: fumigant)
dieldrim
dimethoate (ex. Cygon)
2,4-Dinitrophenal (2,4-D)
dinoseb
disulfoton (ex. Di-Syston)
endosulfan (ex. Thiodan)
endothall
endrin
famphur
heptachlor
hydrocyanic acid (Note: fumigant)
methomyl (ex. Lannate)
methyl parathion
nicotine and salts
parathion
phenylmercuric acetate (PMA)
phorate (Thimet)
propargyl alcohol (Mintol-128 Disinfectant)
toxaphene
warfarin
zinc phosphide

Recycling of Metal Pesticide Containers
    Many metal pesticide containers could be reconditioned by drum recon-
ditioners or reprocessed by scrap metal dealers.  Drum reconditioners are
interested mainly in the large 30- to 55-gallon containers.  Most specify that
they be in good condition; that is, this year's containers.  A number of these
in South Carolina are willing to handle pesticide containers.  Both scrap metal
processors and drum reconditioners will pay for the pesticide containers.  A
list of nearby drum reconditioners and South Carolina scrap metal processors
follows.  Drum reconditioners and scrap metal processors require that pesticide
containers be triple rinsed.

Triple-Rinse Procedures
    Triple rinsing for metal, plastic, or glass pesticide containers to prepare
them for disposal should be as follows;
    - Let empty pesticide containers drain into the spray tank 30 seconds after
drops commence.
    - Fill container at least 10 percent full of water or other rinsate (see
decontamination procedures).
    - Upend or roll to rinse all sides.
    - Drain into spray tank for 30 seconds after drops commence.
    - Repeat for total of three times.
    Fifty-five gallon drums are especially hard to rinse and drain.  Hand pumps
or jet-rinse procedures will aid in rinsing these 55-gallon drums.  Other
methods which have been demonstrated to achieve removal equivalent to triple
rinsing may also be used.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SCRAP METAL PROCESSORS                            
-DOC-
                            SCRAP METAL PROCESSORS
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

    The following includes scrap metal processors who will pay for pesticide
containers as scrap metal.  Prerequisite special handling instructions identi-
fied by these scrap metal dealers are indicated.

Company                                          Special Handling Instructions
Darlington Shredding Company, Inc.                    Triple rinse.
Contact:  E. C. Lane
Road US 15401, 3 miles NE from
Darlington, SC  29532
Phone:  393-6151

Don's Scrap Iron & Metal Company                      Triple rinse.
Contact:  Don Brewer
Hemingway, SC  29554
Phone:  558-2212



Columbia Steel & Metal                           Written certification.  
Contact:  Max Dickman                            Triple rinsed with solvent 
1148 Sharp Road                                  to remove all residue.
P. O. Box 5466
Columbia, SC  29250
Phone:  799-3582

H. Lurey & Son, Inc.                             Triple rinse.  Will not 
Contact:  Bill Mauldin                           accept pesticides which are
P. O. Box 24                                     DHEC/EPA hazardous wastes.
Laurens, SC  29360
Phone:  984-4538

T. H. Snipes & Sons, Inc.                        Triple rinse.  Will not
Contact:  H. K. Snipes                           accept pesticides which are
Highway 161 N                                    DHEC/EPA hazardous wastes.
Rock Hill, SC  29730
Phone:  366-1840



Spartan Iron & Metal Corporation                      Triple rinse.
Contact:  Marvin Seigel
Howard Gap Road
Spartanburg, SC  29303
Phone:  585-0114
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DRUM RECONDITIONERS                              
-DOC-
                              DRUM RECONDITIONERS
                        Neil Ogg, Pesticide Coordinator

Company                                     Special Handling Instructions
Charlotte Steel Drum Corporation       Will handle 30-55 gallon drums, minimum 
P. O. Box 1343                         guage 20/18, DOT spec. 17-E.  Drums must
Charlotte, NC  28232                   be triple rinsed.  Will pick up at least
704/392-5386                           200 containers within 300 miles.

Evans Cooperage Company                Will handle 55 gallon drums, minimum 
1255 Peters Road                       guage 20/18, DOT spec. 17-E, 17-C, 5-B. 
Drawer 68                              Drums must be triple rinsed or handled
Harvey, LA  70059                      as hazardous waste.  Will pick up at 
504/368-6000                           at least 200 containers within 800
                                       miles.






Drum Service Company of Florida        Will handle 55+ gallon drums, minimum
803 Jones Avenue                       guage 20/18, DOT spec. 17-E.  All bungs
Zellwood, FL  32798                    must be in tight.  Will not accept 
305/889-2581                           pesticides which are DHEC/EPA hazardous
                                       wastes.  Will pick up at least 100 
                                       containers within 300 miles.

McConnel Drum Service                  Will recondition and/or dispose all 5880
New Peachtree Road                     types of containers.  Will pick up at
Atlanta, GA  30362                     least 300 containers within 300 miles.

Memphis Drum Service                   Will handle 30-55 gallon drums.  Must 
3299 Tuland Road                       have empty certification (EPA 261.7) and
Memphis, TN  38116                     triple rinse certification (EPA 261.33
901/396-6484                           (e)).  Call for pick-up and other
                                       charges.

Moore Drums, Inc.                      Will handle 30 & 55 gallon steel or
2819 Industrial Avenue                 plastic containers on approval.  Will
Charleston, SC  29405                  pick up 50-100 containers within 300
803/744-7448                           miles.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DECONTAMINATION CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MAJOR PESTICIDE GROUPS         
-DOC-
         DECONTAMINATION CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MAJOR PESTICIDE GROUPS
                     P. M. Horton, Extension Entomologist

     GENERAL:  Most pesticides will break down under alkaline conditions.  
Materials such as hydrated lime, caustic soda, and sodium carbonate (soda ash) 
can be used to speed decomposition.  However, some pesticides resist decompo- 
sition under alkaline conditions.  This is especially true of the chlorinated 
cyclopentadiene complex (endrin, dieldrin, aldrin, chlordane, heptacholor), 
which is more unstable under an acid condition of less than pH 3.0.

     CHLORINATED HYDROCARBON PESTICIDES:  Except as noted above, most chlori- 
nated hydrocarbons commonly used in South Carolina (toxaphene, lindane, etc.) 
will break down under alkaline conditions.  Drums which have contained 
chlorinated hydrocarbons are hard to decontaminate.  This is largely due to 
the sludge or "salted out" crystals of technical insecticide adhering to sides 
and bottoms of the drums. 

     Some people burn chlorinated hydrocarbon drums to decontaminate them.  
This is a hazardous procedure and produces toxic smoke, which is a serious air 
pollutant.  Often we hear of drums being cut open with a torch.  This is risky 
Decontamination Characteristics of the Major Pesticide Groups (cont)

and invites injury from toxic fumes and explosion.  The best solution to this 
problem is to bury the drums in an approved landfill or hold them for salvage 
by a drum reconditioner as outlined in the previous section. 

     ORGANIC PHOSPHATE AND CARBAMATE INSECTICIDES:  Organic phosphates (such 
as parathion) and carbamates (such as carbaryl or Sevin) are easily decomposed 
by alkaline materials.  Caustic soda (common lye), hydrated lime, or soda ash 
are typical alkalis that are cheap, available, and usable for decontamination. 

     Although getting rid of all pesticide drums is desirable, many farmers 
may want to use a few drums for nonfood uses.  If a drum must be re-used on 
the farm, select one that contained either organic phosphates or carbamates 
and decontaminate as follows:
Decontamination Characteristics of the Major Pesticide Groups (cont)

     Container                                            Caustic Soda 
       Size            Water            Detergent            (Lye)  
       
       5 gal             1 pt             2 tbsp             1/2 cup 
      15 gal         1 1/2 gal          1/4 cup              1/2 cup 
      30 gal             3 gal          1/2 cup                1 lb
      55 gal             5 gal            1 cup                2 lb

     Drain container completely.  Add water, detergent, and caustic soda.  
Close container and rotate at intervals of 15 minutes.  Drain the rinse 
solution in a burial pit and flush drum with clean water.  
     
     NOTE:  Containers of less than 5-gal capacity should not be decontam- 
inated for any farm use.  Dispose of them as previously discussed.

     DITHIOCARBAMATES:  This group of pesticides (mostly fungicide materials, 
such as maneb, zineb, etc.) does not present the hazard normally associated 
with other agricultural chemicals.  Burial or decontamination as recommended 
for organic phosphates and carbamates is suggested.
Decontamination Characteristics of the Major Pesticide Groups (cont)

     BOTANICALS AND INORGANICS:  Botanicals (rotenone, pyrethrins, etc.) 
decompose rapidly in the soil; inorganics (arsenicals, mercurials, other heavy 
metals, etc.) are relatively insoluble in water.  Burial is therefore a 
suitable method for disposal of wastes from these materials.

     PHENOXY AND OTHER HERBICIDES:  The main problem with phenoxy herbicides 
is plant toxicity rather than danger to humans.  Typical phenoxy herbicide 
(2,4-D, 2, 4, 5,-T, MCPA, Silvex, Sesome, 2, 4-DB, erbon, etc.) containers 
should not be burned nor should any attempt be made to decontaminate them for 
re-use. 

     Herbicides, such as Treflan, break down fairly rapidly in the soil, and 
burial is a suitable disposal method.  Substituted ureas (diuron-type 
herbicides) are relatively insoluble in waer and can be safely disposed of by 
burying.

     NOTE:  Herbicide containers should not be re-used or reclaimed under any 
condition for farm or other uses.
 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOUTH CAROLINA POISON CONTROL CENTERS                      
-DOC-
                     SOUTH CAROLINA POISON CONTROL CENTERS 
           P.M. Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator 

CITY              NAME AND ADDRESS                            TELEPHONE 

Columbia        Palmetto Poison Center*                     1-800-922-1117 
                College of Pharmacy                               765-7359 
                University of South Carolina 29208 


                         NEARBY POISON CONTROL CENTERS 

Atlanta         Georgia Poison Control Center                 404-589-4400 
                Grady Memorial Hospital      (Deaf Toll Free) 404-525-3323 
                80 Butler St. S.E. 30335    (Ga. Toll Free) 1-800-282-5846 

Augusta         Poison Control Center                         404-724-5050 
                University Hospital                           404-722-9011 
                Walton Way
Savannah        Regional Poison Control                       912-355-5228 
                Memorial Hospital 
                63rd & Waters Ave.
                P.O. Box 23089, 31405


                                 NORTH CAROLINA 
                 

Durham         Poison Control Center                        1-800-672-1697
               Duke University Medical Center
               Box 3007, 27710
 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ASSEMBLY AND PREPARATION OF SPRAY EQUIPMENT                  
-DOC-
                  ASSEMBLY AND PREPARATION OF SPRAY EQUIPMENT
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

Before you can accurately spray any material at the desired chemical rate per 
acre, you must first determine the volume of liquid discharged per acre under 
specific field conditions.  Gallons per acre applied depend on:
     - Orifice size of the nozzle tip.
     - Pressure of the liquid at the tip.
     - Speed nozzle tip is moved across the field.
     - The number of nozzle tips and sometimes the viscosity of the liquid 
       being sprayed.
A variation of any of these factors will vary the rate of application per acre.

To prepare a sprayer for a specific application, you must do the following:
   - Determine the best operating speed to suit the field surface, the crop 
     condition, and the operator.  Select a speed that is comfortable and that 
     can be maintained for the entire operation.
   - Refer to nozzle manufacturers' catalogs and select type and size of tips 
     that will deliver the desired rate per acre at the selected speed.
   - Be sure tips selected deliver in the desired rate range, not above 40 lb 
     pressure for herbicides or less than 60 lbs pressure for insecticides.  To
     keep down drift to sensitive plants, apply herbicides with lower pressure 
     and fairly large droplet size.  With insecticides and fungicides, small 
     drops are often desirable to get penetration and more complete coverage of
     crop foliage.
   - Remove and clean all nozzle tips and screens.  Do not use a pocket knife 
     or wire on tips.  Use an old toothbrush or a wooden toothpick as they will
     not damage shape or size of orifice.  Remove and clean suction strainer 
     screen.
   - With clean water in the supply tank, start pump and flush hoses and boom.
   - Replace all screens and tips.  Make sure that all tips are of the correct 
     size and type for the desired spray pattern and that flow is uniform from 
     all nozzles.  Check all connections for leaks.
    -Then adjust the pressure relief valve until pressure on the gauge is about
     15 pounds above the pressure you will be using for spraying.  Slowly open 
     the control valve on the agitation lines until the gauge drops to the 
     desired spraying pressure.  Now all pump output that is not discharged 
     through the spray nozzles is being recirculated through the jet agitators 
     or the relief valve.  The pressure at the jet agitator is determined by 
     the amount of liquid flowing through it.  One jet agitator is sufficient 
     for tanks up to 100 gallon capacity; use two in larger tanks.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE 1/128th CALIBRATION METHOD                        
-DOC-
                        THE 1/128th CALIBRATION METHOD
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

1.   Make sure selected nozzles produce the correct spray pattern, have an 
     adequate droplet size range, and minimize drift.  Nozzles should be in 
     good working order and be positioned to obtain a uniform coverage over the
     target area.

2.   Use the accompanying tables to select the calibration distance.  For 
     broadcast application use the nozzle spacing.  For band application use 
     the band width.

     -------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Band width or
     Nozzle spacing (in)      48     40     38     36     34     32     30    
     -------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Calibration
     Distance (ft)            85    102    107    113    120    128    136    
     -------------------------------------------------------------------------
     -------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Band width or
     Nozzle spacing (in)      28     24     20     18     16     14     10    
     -------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Calibration
     Distance (ft)           146    170    204    227    255    292    408    
     -------------------------------------------------------------------------

3.   Measure off the distance in the field to be sprayed from Step 2.  Clock 
     the number of seconds the spray rig takes to cover this distance in the 
     gear and at the throttle setting selected for spraying.  Make several runs
     over the distance and average the time it takes.  Mark the throttle 
     setting.

4.   With the rig standing still, engage the power take-off and set the 
     throttle at spraying position.  Set the sprayer pressure within the range
     recommended for the nozzles used.
     BROADCAST:  Collect the spray from one nozzle for the time recorded in 
     Step 3.  The amount collected in ounces equals gallons per acre directly.
     BANDING:  Collect the spray from all nozzles used to spray the band (i.e.,
     two nozzles per band--collect the total from the two nozzles; three 
     nozzles per band--collect the total from the three nozzles).  The amount 
     collected in ounces equals gallons per acre directly.

5.   Divide the capacity of your tank by the gallons applied per acre as 
     determined in Step 4 to find the number of acres you can treat per tank of
     spray.

6.   To determine how much chemical to add to the tank, multiply the rate per 
     acre recommended by the number of acres your tank will cover as determined
     in Step 5.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE VOLUME CALCULATION METHOD                         
-DOC-
                         THE VOLUME CALCULATION METHOD
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

1.   Make sure selected nozzles produce the correct spray pattern, have an 
     adequate droplet size range,  and minimize drift.  Nozzles should be in 
     good working order and be positioned to obtain a uniform coverage over 
     the target area.

2.   Measure off one-eighth mile (660 feet or 40 rods) in the field to be 
     sprayed.

3.   Start with the tank full of water.  Spray the test run of one-eighth mile,
     using the spray, pressure, and tractor speed that will be used in actual 
     spraying.  Mark the throttle setting used.

4.   Refill the tank, carefully measuring the amount of water required to 
     refill the tank.

5.   Broadcast application calculation:

                gallons used x 66
          ------------------------------        = gallons per treated acre
           width of spray swath in feet
     

     Band application calculation:

                  gallons used x 66 
     ------------------------------------------ = gallons per treated acre
     (band width in inches x no. of bands) / 12

6.   Divide capacity of your tank by the gallons applied per acre as determined
     in Step 5 above, to find the number of acres you can treat per tank of 
     spray.

7.   To determine how much chemical to add to the tank, multiply the rate per 
     treated acre recommended by the number of treated acres your tank will 
     cover, as determined in Step 6 above.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE 40.84 CALIBRATION METHOD                          
-DOC-
                          THE 40.84 CALIBRATION METHOD
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

1.   Make sure selected nozzles produce the correct spray pattern, have an 
     adequate droplet size range,  and minimize drift.  Nozzles should be in 
     good working order and be positioned to obtain a uniform coverage over the
     target area.

2.   Measure off 100 feet in the field to be sprayed.  Clock the number of 
     seconds it takes the spray rig to cover this distance in the gear and at 
     the throttle setting selected for spraying.  Make several runs over the 
     distance and average the time it takes.  Mark the throttle setting.

3.   With the rig standing still, engage the power take-off and set the 
     throttle at spraying position.  Set the sprayer pressure within the range 
     recommended for the nozzles used.
     BROADCAST:  Collect the ounces from one nozzle or average the ounces of 
     spray from several nozzles for the time measured in Step 2.
     BANDING:  Collect the ounces of spray for all the nozzles spraying on the 
     band.  (For two nozzles per band, collect the total from the two nozzles; 
     for three nozzles per band, collect the total from the three nozzles.)
4.   Gallons per acre is calculated by the following formula:

                                     40.84 x ounces collected         
          Gallons per acre = ----------------------------------------
                              Nozzle spacing or band width in inches

5.   Divide the capacity of your tank by the gallons applied per acre as 
     determined in Step 4 to find the number of acres you can treat per tank of
     spray.

6.   To determine how much chemical to add to the tank, multiply the rate per 
     acre recommended by the number of acres your tank will cover as determined
     in Step 5.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CALIBRATION OF ORCHARD SPRAYERS                        
-DOC-
                        CALIBRATION OF ORCHARD SPRAYERS
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

Orchard sprayer calibration is no different than boom sprayer calibration.  Any
of the methods listed elsewhere can be used.  The area the air blast covers is 
the width and the flow would be the total of all nozzles injecting chemical 
into the air blast.  A more traditional "refill" technique which, if done 
correctly gives excellent results, is given below.

1.   Make sure all nozzles are in good working order.  Check output from each 
     nozzle.  If one or more nozzles show a 10 percent or greater wear, replace
     the entire set of nozzles.

2.   Fill the sprayer with water, spray a measured acre or convenient fraction 
     thereof at the appropriate speed and pressure.  Refill the tank to the 
     exact level as before, carefully measuring the amount required for refill.
     The number of gallons needed to refill will be the number of gallons per 
     acre applied, if an acre was sprayed; half the per-acre rate if 1/2 acre 
     was sprayed; or one quarter the amount if 1/4 acre was sprayed.
The area sprayed for calibration should be large enough to use at least a tenth
of the tank contents.  It should be of similar surface texture as the area to 
be treated so that the same throttle setting and gear will result in the same 
forward speed when spraying.  If the amount applied in the test run is 
different from the desired rate, change the speed or nozzle tip size.  Reducing
speed increases application rate.  Slight changes in rate can be made by 
adjusting pressure, but doubling pressure only increases output rate by 41 
percent.  The optimum pressure range for many nozzles is very narrow, so any 
significant change in rate is best made by changing speed or nozzle tips.

The "spray-an-acre" method described above is simple and direct and can be used
with any type of sprayer or applicator which can use water for calibration.  
The accuracy of the method depends entirely on how carefully the test area is 
measured and sprayed, and how accurately the refill water is measured.  An acre
for test purposes can be a single strip the width of the boom's effective 
coverage, and with a total length of 43,560 divided by boom width.  The 
measured course can be 1/2, 1/3, or 1/4 of the total length needed, and 
traversed 2, 3, or 4 times to equal the acre if necessary.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CALIBRATION OF HAND SPRAYERS                          
-DOC-
                          CALIBRATION OF HAND SPRAYERS
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

1.   Mark an area of 100 sq ft (10 feet x 10 feet).

2.   Fill sprayer with water to a known mark on the tank and spray the 100 
     square feet at a uniform walking speed.

3.   Refill sprayer, measuring the amount of water required to refill to 
     original level.

4.   Determine per acre rate of spray delivery from:

                   gallons per acre = ounces collected x 3.4

     or use the following table.
                 ----------------------------------------------
                  Nozzle discharge             Rate in gallons
                   per 100 sq ft                   per acre
                 ----------------------------------------------
                     1/2 pint           =            27
                      1 pint            =            55
                   1 1/2 pint           =            82
                     1 quart            =           110
                 ----------------------------------------------
 
If 1 pint is sprayed on 100 square feet, then 1 gallon will cover 800 square 
feet.  Three gallons will cover 2,400 square feet or 24 x 100.
Example:  To determine rate for wettable powder in hand sprayer:

           Rate Chem/Acre              X
           --------------  x  -------------------
              Gal/Acre        Capacity Spray Tank

                2 lb                   X
           --------------  x  -------------------  
               55 gal            3-gal sprayer 

               32 oz                   X
           --------------  x  ------------------- = 1.7 oz. WP in 3 gal water
               55 gal                  3

Take care to walk the same speed at all times and to keep the tank pressure 
about the same while spraying.  If rate of application is given in certain 
amounts per tree, per shrub, or per 100 ft of row, calibration is done in the 
same manner as described before.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CALIBRATION OF GRAVITY-FLOW SOIL-FUMIGANT APPLICATORS             
-DOC-
             CALIBRATION OF GRAVITY-FLOW SOIL-FUMIGANT APPLICATORS
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer


Soil fumigants should be placed 6 to 8 inches deep in the bed or 4 to 6 inches 
below the planted seed depth and preferably 1 to 2 inches to the side of the 
drill.  The rate applied depends on the size of the orifice, ground speed of 
the applicator rig, and the temperature.

1.   Determine field speed of applicator.
     a.   Measure off 100 feet in the field.
     b.   Record the time in seconds to cover the 100 feet (under actual field 
          conditions, chisel depth, and load).

2.   Select orifice.  Refer to manufacturer's literature to select orifice size
     for recommended rate for time to travel 100 feet.

3.   Check flow rate for each row.  Check each orifice for actual flow rate.  
     Measure the ounces caught in the number of seconds required to travel 100 
     feet.  The volume should correspond to the amount indicated in Table 2 for
     the recommended rate.
4.   Adjust tractor speed to correspond to the actual flow rate or change 
     orifice plates to apply the correct amount of fumigant.

Table 2.  Field Rate Conversion*
          (29.5 cubic centimeters  --  1 fluid ounce)
          ---------------------------------------------------------
              2 qt/acre  =   0.5 fluid ounce/100 linear feet of row
              3 qt/acre  =   0.8 fluid ounce/100 linear feet of row
              4 qt/acre  =   1.0 fluid ounce/100 linear feet of row
             8 gal/acre  =   8.0 fluid ounce/100 linear feet of row
            10 gal/acre  =  10.0 fluid ounce/100 linear feet or row
          ---------------------------------------------------------
*Rate based on 40-inch row spacing.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CALIBRATION OF GRANULAR APPLICATORS                      
-DOC-
                      CALIBRATION OF GRANULAR APPLICATORS
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

Most granular applicators use gravity flow with an orifice plate or a rotating 
agitator to meter the granules through an adjustable opening.  The mechanisms 
are subject to wear and corrosion.  Identical units often have dissimilar 
output for a given adjustment.  Therefore, each application unit must be 
calibrated individually.

Calibration can change dramatically in the first few hours of use each season 
as units are "lubricated" by the granular material.  It is important that 
calibration is checked often early in the season.

1.   Determine the amount of material needed per 100 linear feet of row.

              Amount required/acre x 100
              -------------------------- =  amount/100 ft of row
               Linear feet of row/acre

2.   Determine the time required for the application equipment to travel 100 
     feet in the land to be treated (plowed ground).
3.   Adjust applicator outlets or select orifices to put out the required 
     amount of material (Step 1) in exactly the same amount of time taken for 
     the equipment to travel the 100 feet (Step 2).  Check calibration often 
     because granules may vary in density and low characteristics from batch to
     batch.

Example:
                   10 lb rate/acre
                 -------------------- x 100  =  0.0761 lb
                 13,000 feet row/acre
                                             =  0.0761 lb/100 feet of row
                                             =  1.21 oz/100 feet

If speed is 17 seconds/100 feet (4 mph), then adjust applicator to put out 
0.076 lb or 1.21 oz every 17 seconds.

Use the following to find the actual amount of active ingredient applied per 
acre:
                          lb of formulation/acre x % active ingredient
       pounds/acres(ai) = --------------------------------------------
                                               100
Example:  If the active ingredient (ai) concentration of granules was 10 
percent and 10 lb of the granules were recommended per acre, then the rate of 
active material applied would be:

                                      10 lb acre x 10(%)
                  pounds/acre (ai)  = ------------------
                                             100
                  pounds/acre (ai)  =  1 lb.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CALIBRATION OF DUSTERS                             
-DOC-
                             CALIBRATION OF DUSTERS
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

Dust mixtures vary in density, and the application rate can vary at a given 
setting of the hopper discharge openings.  Ground speed, blower speed, and dust
handling should be kept as constant as possible.  Refill hopper when half of 
contents has been applied.

The only practical method for duster calibration is by trial and error that 
becomes methodical by following these steps:

1.   Measure off a test area of at least one-half acre (21,780 sq ft) or eight 
     38-inch rows 860 ft long.
2.   Fill dust hopper and level the material in the hopper.
3.   Apply dust to the measured area at normal tractor-operating speed.  Full 
     throttle in the desired gear is recommended.  If less than full throttle 
     is used, note the exact throttle setting.  If a tachometer is available, a
     fast idle motor speed 200 to 500 rpm below full throttle in the desired
     gear may help facilitate calibration.  (Fast idle motor speed is the motor
     rpm recorded at some throttle setting between one-half and full throttle
     with the tractor out of gear.)
4.   After dusting the test area, carefully weigh the amount of dust needed to 
     refill the hopper to its original level.
5.   Convert the number of pounds of dust required to refill the pounds per 
     acre by multiplying by two (Example:  17 lb per 1/2 acre = 34 lb per 
     acre).
6.   If the rate is more than desired, either increase the tractor speed or 
     decrease the hopper discharge opening.  If the rate is less, reduce the 
     tractor speed or increase the discharge opening.
7.   Repeat dusting the test area after making adjustments until correct speed 
     and hopper discharge opening settings are determined.  Note these 
     adjustments!
8.   Repeat this calibration process each time the machine is used even though 
     the same material is being used at the same application rate.  Flow rate 
     will vary with differences in density and dust particle relationships.  
     Flow gauges on dusters are unreliable.

If a motor tachometer is available on the tractor, a shortcut in calibration 
may be used.  Example:  On the first run where 34 lb acre was applied at 
approximately 1,350 rpm motor speed, and 40 lb/acre is the desired rate, then 
use the following formula:


                                              rpm x test rate
           Desired tachometer reading = ---------------------------
                                                desired rate

                                          1,350 rpm x 34 lb/acre
           Desired tachometer reading = ---------------------------
                                                 40 lb/acre

           Desired tachometer reading = Approximately 1,150 rpm

Remember that as engine rpm is increased, power take-pff (pto) speed 
increases, and this in turn increases blower speed and agitation so that this 
proportion is not exact.  The fact that the discharge part adjustment remains 
the same should make delivery approximately in the same proportion.  Ten 
percent variation is an acceptable duster adjustment.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
METRIC EQUIVALENTS                              
-DOC-
                              METRIC EQUIVALENTS
                 F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

                                   Capacity
             -------------------------------------------------------
                          1 teaspoon  =  4.93 milliliters
                        1 tablespoon  =  14.79 milliliters
                  1 U.S. fluid ounce  =  29.573 milliliters
                        1 U.S. quart  =  0.946 liter
                    1 U.S. dry quart  =  1.101 liters
                       1 U.S. gallon  =  3.785 liters
                       1 U.S. bushel  =  35.24 liters
                        1 cubic inch  =  16.4 cubic centimeters
                             1 liter  =  1,000 milliliters
                  1 cubic foot water  =  7.48 gallons or 62.5 pounds
                    231 cubic inches  =  1 gallon
                  1 cubic centimeter  =  0.061 cubic inch
                             1 liter  =  1.057 U.S. liquid quarts
                             1 liter  =  0.908 U.S. dry quart
                             1 liter  =  0.264 U.S. gallon
                        1 milliliter  =  0.034 U.S. fluid ounce
                                    Weight
             -------------------------------------------------------
                        1 metric ton  =  1.1 tons (short)
                          1 kilogram  =  2.2046 pounds
                              1 gram  =  0.035 ounce
                         1 milligram  =  0.015 grain

                                   Distance
             -------------------------------------------------------
                              1 inch  =  2.54 centimeters
                              1 foot  =  0.305 meter
                              1 yard  =  0.914 meter
                              1 mile  =  1.609 kilometers
                        1 centimeter  =  0.394 inch
                             1 meter  =  3.281 feet
                             1 meter  =  1.094 yards
                         1 kilometer  =  0.621 mile
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPRAYER FORMULAS                                
-DOC-
                                SPRAYER FORMULAS
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

                gpa x mph x w
gpm/nozzle  =  ---------------
                   5,940

         5,940 x gpm/nozzle 
gpa  =  --------------------
              mph x w

             44,500
gpa  =  ----------------
        mph x w x sec/pt

              43,560 x gal discharged
gpa  =  -------------------------------------
        swath width (ft) x length of run (ft)

                   (oz collected) x (43,560 sq ft/acre)
gpa  =  -----------------------------------------------------------
        (Band width in ft) x (length traveled in ft) x (128 oz/gal)

 -----------------------------------------
gpa  =  gallons per acre, broadcast basis
gpm  -  gallon per minute
mph  =  miles per hour
sec  =  seconds
pt   =  pint
ft   =  feet 
s    =  ground speed (miles per hour)
w    =  nozzle spacing on boom or band width (inches)
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TRACTOR SPEEDS                                 
-DOC-
                                 TRACTOR SPEEDS
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer


             0.682 x length of run (ft)
      MPH = ----------------------------              1 MPH = 88 ft/min       
                    time (sec)

           ----------------------------------------------------------
              Speeds in MPH     Time required in seconds to travel
              (miles/hour)      100 feet     200 feet     300 feet
           ----------------------------------------------------------
                  3.0             23            45           68
                  3.5             20            39           58
                  4.0             17            34           51
                  4.5             15            30           45
                  5.0             14            27           41
                  6.0             11            23           34
                  7.0              9.7          19           29
                  7.5              9.0          18           27
                  8.0              8.5          17           26
           ----------------------------------------------------------  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STANDARD MEASUREMENTS                             
-DOC-
                             STANDARD MEASUREMENTS
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

                       Measure of Length (Linear Measure)
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------
                            4 inches  =  1 hand
                            9 inches  =  1 span
                           12 inches  =  1 foot
                              3 feet  =  1 yard
                              6 feet  =  1 fathom
                         5 1/2 yards  =  16 1/2 feet  = 1 rod or 11 poles
                            40 poles  =  1 furlong
                          8 furlongs  =  1 mile
          5,280 feet  =  1,760 yards  =  320 rods  =  1 mile
                             3 miles  =  1 league

                           Measure of Surface (Area)
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------
                   144 square inches  =  1 square foot
                       9 square feet  =  1 square yard
                 30 1/4 square yards  =  1 square rod
                     160 square rods  =  1 acre
                  43,560 square feet  =  1 acre
                    640 square acres  =  1 square mile

                               Surveyor's Measure
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------
                         7.92 inches  =  1 link
                            25 links  =  1 rod
                              4 rods  =  1 chain
                           80 chains  =  1 mile
                    10 square chains  =  160 square rods  =  1 acre

                                 Cubic Measure
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------
                  1,728 cubic inches  =  1 cubic foot
                       27 cubic feet  =  1 cubic yard
               2,150.42 cubic inches  =  1 standard bushel
                    231 cubic inches  =  1 standard gallon (liquid)
                        1 cubic foot  =  4/5 of a bushel
                      128 cubic feet  =  1 cord (wood)
                        7.48 gallons  =  1 cubic foot
                            1 bushel  =  1.25 cubic feet

                                  Dry Measure
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------
                             2 pints  =  1 quart
                            8 quarts  =  1 peck
                             4 pecks  =  1 bushel

                                 Liquid Measure
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------
                         3 teaspoons  =  1 tablespoon
                       2 tablespoons  =  1 ounce
                            8 ounces  =  1 cup
                              2 cups  =  1 pint
                             2 pints  =  1 quart
                            4 quarts  =  1 gallon

                          Avoirdupois Weight (Common)
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------
                     27 11/32 grains  =  1 dram
                            16 drams  =  1 ounce
                           16 ounces  =  1 pound
                        2,000 pounds  =  1 ton (short)
                        2,400 pounds  =  1 ton (long)

Weights and Measures Factors
 ----------------------------------------------------------------
Volume  =  (diameter)^2 x 0.7854 x height (for circular bin)
Volume  =  length x width x height (for retangular bin)
Capacity of grain bin in bushel is volume in cubic feet x 0.8
Capacity of corn crib in bushel is volume in cubic feet x 0.4
1 bushel  =  1 1/4 cubic feet
1 cubic foot  =  0.8 bushel
1 bushel ear corn  =  2 1/2 cubic feet
1 cubic foot ear corn  =  0.4 bushel
1 cubic foot dry shelled corn  =  44.8 pounds
1 cubic foot soybeans  =  48 pounds
1 cubic foot wheat  =  48 pounds
1 board foot  =  1 inch x 12 inch x 12 inch nominal dimensions
1 gallon water  =  8.3 pounds
1 cubic foot water  =  7.5 gallons
1 gallon water  =  231 cubic inches
1 cubic yard concrete  =  81 square feet 4 inch floor
1 cubic yard concrete  =  54 square feet 6 inch floor
0.43 pound per square inch  =  column of water 1 foot high
1 pound per square inch  =  column of water 2.31 feet high
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMPUTING FIELD MEASUREMENT                          
-DOC-
                          COMPUTING FIELD MEASUREMENT
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

To compute the area of a field or farm, you must know the lengths of the 
different sides in whatever unit of measure you are using.  For small plots, 
the foot or yard may be most convenient.  For larger areas, the rod (16 1/2 
feet), chain (66 feet), or mile can be used.

The area of a rectangular field is found by multiplying the length by the 
width.  If a field is 20 rods wide and 60 rods long, it contains 1,200 square 
rods.  The same field would measure 330 feet wide by 990 feet long and contain 
326,700 square feet, or 5 chains wide by 15 chains and contain 75 square 
chains.

The number of acres in a field is determined by dividing the number of square 
units by the number of square units in an acre.

                       Area in sq ft
(1)  No. of acres  =  ---------------
                          43,560

                       Area in sq yd
(2)  No. of acres  =  ---------------
                           4,840

                      Area in sq rods
(3)  No. of acres  =  ---------------
                           160

                      Area in sq chains
(4)  No. of acres  =  -----------------
                            10

(5)  No. of acres  =  Area in square miles x 640


Make measurements in a straight line and keep an accurate record of all 
distances as well as corners and odd-shaped boundaries.  Make a rough sketch of
the field before you start, if possible, or as you go along.  Label each side 
as soon as it is measured.  A surveyor's chain (66 feet) is the best unit of 
measure on field-size or larger tracts.  The number of square chains in an 
area, divided by 10, gives the number of acres.  Two people are required to 
carry a tally.  One stake is placed at the start.  The leading person sets a 
stake at each 66-foot interval measured off by the chain.  When the rear person
has gathered up 10 stakes, the distance covered by the front person is 10 
chains.

                          Fields of Different Shapes

Rectangular or square-shaped fields are the easiest to measure.  Find the area 
by multiplying the length times the width.

Figure 1.                          _____________________________
                                  |                             | W
                                  |                             | I
       L x W  = Sq Area           |                             | D (W)
                                  |           LENGTH (L)        | T
                                  |_____________________________| H

A trapezoid is a figure of four sides having two, and only two, sides parallel.
It is figured the same as the retangular field, except that you use the average
of the two parallel sides for the length figure.

                                                Length (L2)
Figure 2.                             __________________________
                                     /W                         \
                                    / i                          \
                   L1 + L2         /  d (W)                       \
       Area =  W x -------        /   t                            \
                      2          /    h         Length (L1)         \ 
                                /____________________________________\
                               

Right triangle fields are three-sided fields having one square corner.  To find
the area, figure as if it were one-half of a rectangle.  Thus one-half of the 
length (base) multiplied by the width (height) will give you the area.

Figure 3.                            |\
                                   H | \
       Area  =  1/2 H x B          E |  \ 
                                   I |   \
                                   G |    \
                                   H |     \
                                   T |______\

                                      BASE (B)
  
Other triangular fields not having a square corner can be figured the same as 
the right triangle, but the height must be measured square from the base line 
(at right angles to it).  Thus one-half the height times the base gives the 
area.
                                 H            /|\
                                 E           / | \
                                 I          /  |  \
   Area  =  1/2H x B             G (H)     /   |   \
                                 H        /    |    \
                                 T       /     |     \
                                        /______|______\

                                            BASE (B)


Many-sided fields--those with more than four sides or with four unequal sides 
can usually be measured by using one or more of the methods already discussed.
The trick is to divide the fields into triangles or rectangles that can be 
easily measured.  A good rule is to measure from one corner to an opposite 
corner, dividing the field into more easily measured plots.  Find the area of 
each of the new plots by using the formula for rectangles or triangles.

Curved boundaries.  Where contour farming is practical, field measurement 
become somewhat more complicated.  The best method is to measure off a 
straight base line near the center of the field.  At equal distance take a 
number of measurements of the field width.  Make these measurements square 
across (at right angles to) the base line.  Find the average of these width 
lines and multiply this average by the length of the base line.  This gives 
the area of the field.  If the base line does not meet the ends of the field 
square (at right angles), you will have to figure the area of the small 
triangles at each end separately.

When fields are curved too much for a straight base line to be drawn as above, 
do this:  Measure a base line down the center of the field or as near the 
center as practical.  Let it curve as the field curves.  At equal distance, 
measure the width of the field.  make these measurements as square across the 
base line as possible; then use the same method of figuring the area as used 
with a straight line base.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ROW LENGTHS PER ACRE                              
-DOC-
                              ROW LENGTHS PER ACRE
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. Rows                          Row Widths
Per Acre          30"          36"         38"          40"          48"
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                            Length of rows in Feet
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
   1            17,424       14,520      13,784       13,081       10,890
   2             8,712        7,260       6,892        6,540        5,445
   3             5,808        4,840       4,594        4,360        3,630
   4             4,356        3,630       3,446        3,270        2,722
   5             3,484        2,904       2,756        2,616        2,178
   6             2,904        2,420       2,297        2,180        1,815
   7             2,489        2,074       1,969        1,868        1,555
   8             2,178        1,815       1,723        1,635        1,361
   9             1,936        1,613       1,531        1,453        1,210
  10             1,742        1,452       1,378        1,308        1,089
  11             1,584        1,320       1,253        1,189          990
  12             1,452        1,210       1,148        1,090          907
  13             1,340        1,116       1,060        1,006          837
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. Rows                          Row Widths
Per Acre          30"          36"         38"          40"          48"
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                            Length of rows in Feet
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  14             1,244        1,037         984          934          777
  15             1,161          968         918          872          726
  16             1,089          907         861          817          680
  17             1,024          854         810          769          640
  18               968          806         765          726          605
  19               917          764         725          688          573
  20               871          726         689          654          544
  22               792          660         626          594          495
  23               757          631         599          568          473
  24               726          605         574          545          453
  26               670          558         530          503          418
  28               622          518         492          467          388
  30               580          484         459          436          363
  32               544          454         431          408          340
  34               512          427         405          385          320
  36               484          403         383          364          302
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. Rows                          Row Widths
Per Acre          30"          36"         38"          40"          48"
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                            Length of rows in Feet
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  38               458          382         363          345          286
  40               435          364         345          328          272
  42               415          347         328          312          259
  46               378          315         300          285          236
  50               348          290         276          262          217
  60               290          242         230          218          181
  70               249          207         197          186          155
  80               217          181         172          163          136
  90               193          161         153          145          121
 100               174          145         137          131          108
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DILUTION TABLE FOR PESTICIDES                         
-DOC-
                         DILUTION TABLE FOR PESTICIDES
                 F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

     This dilution table provides an accurate estimate of the amount of 
concentrate to use when the recommended rate of application is given in pounds 
per acre.

     For effective control of insect, weed, and plant disease pests, it is very
important to apply the proper amount of pesticide to the infested area.  Also, 
it is equally important not to exceed the recommended rate so that plants and 
animals are not injured by too much insecticide.

     A legal tolerance level for pesticide residues has been established in 
parts per million (ppm) for all food crops.  Only by accurate application of 
pesticides at recommended rates can residues be kept within these legal 
tolerance levels.

     Follow the label directions and precautions each time that you apply a 
pesticide.
   Dillution Table for Pesticides Given in Pounds Active Ingredient Per Acre
==============================================================================
                        Amount of Active Ingredient per Acre Recommended
Pesticide Formulation  1/8  1/4   1/2   3/4   1    1-1/2   2  2-1/2    3    5
                       lb   lb    lb    lb    lb    lb     lb   lb    lb   lb
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
10-12% Emulsion     Amt. of Form. Needed to Obtain the Above Amt. of Act. Chem.
Concentrate (cont.     1    1     2      3    1    1-1/2   2  2-1/2    3    5
1 lb. chem./gal)       pt   qt    qt     qt   gal  gal    gal  gal    gal  gal
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
15-20% Emulsion
Concentrate (cont.    2/5  4/5  1-3/5  2-2/5 3-1/5 1-1/5 1-3/5  2   2-2/5   4 
1 1/4 lb chem/gal)    qt   qt    qt      qt   qt   gal    gal  gal   gal   gal
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
25% Emulsion 
Concentrate (cont.    1/2   1     1      3    2     3      1    5   1-1/2 2-1/2
2 lb. chem/gal)       pt   pt    qt     pt   qt    qt    gal   qt   gal    gal
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
40-50% Emulsion
Concentrate (cont.    1/4   1/2   1   1-1/2   1     3      2    5     3     5
4 lb chm/gal)         pt    pt   pt     pt    qt    pt    qt   pt    qt    qt
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Dillution Table for Pesticides Given in Pounds Active Ingredient Per Acre
==============================================================================
                        Amount of Active Ingredient per Acre Recommended
Pesticide Formulation  1/8  1/4   1/2   3/4   1    1-1/2   2  2-1/2    3    5
                       lb   lb    lb    lb    lb    lb     lb   lb    lb   lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
50-60% Emulsion     Amt. of Form. Needed to Obtain the Above Amt. of Act. Chem.
Concentrate (cont.    1/5   2/5  4/5  1-1/5  1-3/5 1-1/5 1-3/5  2   2-2/5   1 
5 lb chm/gal)         pt    pt   pt    pt     pt    qt    qt   qt    qt    gal
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
70-75% Emulsion
Concentrate (cont.    1/8   1/4  1/2   3/4     1   1-1/2   1   2-1/2  3   2-1/2
8 lb chem/gal         pt    pt   pt    pt     pt    pt    qt    pt   pt    qt
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
15% Wettable          13   1-2/3 3-1/3  5   6-2/3   10  13-1/3 16-2/3 20 33-1/3
Powder                oz    lb    lb   lb     lb    lb    lb    lb    lb  lb
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
25% Wettable          1/2   l     2     3      4     6     8    10    12   20
Powder                lb    lb    lb   lb     lb    lb    lb    lb    lb   lb
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
40% Wettable          5   10   1-1/4 1-7/8  2-1/2 3-3/4   5  6-1/4 7-1/2 12-1/2
Powder                oz  oz     lb   lb      lb    lb   lb   lb    lb     lb
   Dillution Table for Pesticides Given in Pounds Active Ingredient Per Acre
==============================================================================
                        Amount of Active Ingredient per Acre Recommended
Pesticide Formulation  1/8  1/4   1/2   3/4   1    1-1/2   2  2-1/2    3    5
                       lb   lb    lb    lb    lb    lb     lb   lb    lb   lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                   Amt. of Form. Needed to Obtain the Above Amt. of Act. Chem.
47% Wettable       4-1/4  8-1/2   17 1-2/3 2-1/8 3-1/5 4-1/4 5-1/3 6-2/3 10-2/3
Powder                oz   oz     oz   lb    lb     lb    lb    lb    lb   lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
50% Wettable         1/4   1/2     1  1-1/2    2    3     4     5     6     10
Powder                lb    lb    lb   lb     lb    lb    lb    lb    lb    lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
65% Wettable          3     6    3/4  1-1/3  1-1/2 2-1/3  3  3-4/5  4-2/3 7-2/3
Powder                oz    oz    lb   lb     lb    lb    lb    lb    lb    lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
75% Wettable         1/5   1/3   2/3   1    1-1/3   2  2-2/3 3-1/3    4   6-2/3
Powder                lb    lb    lb   lb     lb    lb    lb    lb    lb     lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
80% Wettable        2-1/2  5     10   15   1-1/4  1-7/8 2-1/2 3-1/8 3-3/4 6-1/4
Powder                oz   oz    oz   oz      lb    lb    lb    lb    lb    lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                         DILUTION TABLE FOR PESTICIDES
                      (For Preparing Smaller Quantities)

Emulsifiable Concentrates (EC) or Flowables (F)

The following table can be used to mix different amounts of a spray of the same
mixture when using liquid formulations.

Water                      Quantity of Liquid Pesticide Material Needed
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
100 Gal             1/2 pt     1 pt     2 pt      3 pt      4 pt       5 pt
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 25 gal             2 oz       4 oz     8 oz     12 oz      1 pt      1-1/4 pt
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  5 gal             1 T        2 T      4 T       6 T        8 T        10 T
                     or         or       or       or          or         or
                               1 oz     2 oz      3 oz      4 oz         5 oz
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  1 gal             3/4 t     3/4t     1-1/2 t    3 t       4-1/2 t or  7-1/2 t
                                                            2 T
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wettable or Soluble Powders (WP, SP, S)

The following table can be used to mix different amounts of the same mixture 
when using powdered formulations.

Water                        Quantity of Powdered Pesticide Material Needed
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

100 gal           1 lb        2 lb       3 lb      4 lb      5 lb       6 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 25 gal           4 oz        8 oz      12 oz      1 lb     1-1/4 lb   1-1/2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  5 gal           5 T        10 T       15 T or   20 T or   25 T or    30 T or
                                        1 cup    1-1/4 cup  1-1/2cup  1-3/4 cup
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  1 gal           1 T         2 T       3 T        4 T      5 T         6 T
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(The above measurements of WP are acceptable for practical purposes.)

Example:  If the label specified that 3 lb of a wettable powder pesticide 
material are to be added to 100 gal of water, then 3 T of the pesticide 
material would make 1 gal of similar spray mixture.
When reducing the amount of a spray mixture, be sure to stay in the right 
column and line as indicated above.  The above tables are stictly based on 
information that should be found on the label of the particular pesticide that 
will be used.  For amounts of spray not listed, the tables can be halved, 
doubled, or combinations may be added as needed.

HELPFUL MEASURING TABLES FOR MIXING PESTICIDES

Pesticides that are bought in large packages or sizes usually do not include 
instruction for mixing smaller amounts of a spray.  The following table 
compares vsrious measurements that are needed to make smaller amounts of a 
spray.

3 teaspoons . . . . . . . . . . . .  1 Tablespoon
2 Tablespoons . . . . . . . . . . .  1 fluid ounce = 6 teaspoons
4 Tablespoons . . . . . . . . . . .  12 teaspoons = 1/4 cup = 2 fluid ounces
1 cup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  16 Tablespoons = 8 fluid ounces
2 cups. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  32 Tablespoons = 1 pint = 16 fluid ounces
2 pints . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  64 Tablespoons = 1 quart = 4 level cups
4 quarts  . . . . . . . . . . . . .  8 pints = 1 gallon = 16 level cups
16 ounces . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1 pound
6 Tablespoons (level) = approx. 1 oz of dry weight (for WP only)

EXPLANATION FOR MEASURING ABBREVIATIONS

WP  . . . . . . . . Wettable powder                  gal . . . . . gallon
EC  . . . . . . . . emulsifiable concentrate         qt  . . . . . quart
D . . . . . . . . . dust                             pt  . . . . . pint
G . . . . . . . . . granular                         lb  . . . . . pound
Sol . . . . . . . . solution                         oz  . . . . . ounce
t or tsp  . . . . . teaspoon                         fl  . . . . . fluid
T or Tbsp   . . . . tablespoon


All spoons, cups or other measuring utensils that are used to measure any 
pesticides or other chemicals should be clearly marked and kept in the storage 
area under lock and key.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AERIAL APPLICATION / ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES               
-DOC-
               AERIAL APPLICATION / ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES
                 F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

ADVANTAGES

     Aerial application has many advantages, including these:
  Is faster
  Can be better timed
  Can treat immediately after rain or irrigation
  Eliminates ground equipment damage to the crop
  Reduces mechanical spread of pests
  Uses less water
  Decreases loss from runoff
  Lowers grower capital investment
  Reduces labor requirement
  Makes use of an experienced licensed applicator

DISADVANTAGES

     Limitations of aerial application are:
  Need for correct weather conditions
  Difficulty in treating areas containing obstructions
  Difficulty in treating small or irregularly shaped areas
  Long ferrying distances
  Difficulty in getting thorough coverage
  Liability for drift to nontarget areas
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AERIAL APPLICATION EQUIPMENT SETUP CONSIDERATIONS               
-DOC-
               AERIAL APPLICATION EQUIPMENT SETUP CONSIDERATIONS
                 F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

     Successful control of the pest problem depends on thorough coverage and 
sufficient deposit.  The main problem with aerial application is related to 
inadequate target contact by the pesticide.  Reduced coverage and deposit is 
mainly due to loss of the pesticide between the plane and the target.  This 
loss is caused by two factors, both of which result in reduced rates per acre:
     1.   Drift -- that is, movement of the pesticide droplets off target 
          because of air currents
     2.   Evaporation or volatilization of the pesticide particles before they 
          contact the target

     These two factors may be resolved through droplet size control.  Spray 
droplets have a limited lifespan (Table 3).
Table 3.  Lifetimes and Fall Distance at Terminal Velocity for Water Droplets 
          at 86 degree F and 50% RH.
     -------------------------------------------------------------------
            Drop diameter           Lifetime         Distance drop
             in microns            in seconds          would fall
     -------------------------------------------------------------------
                200                   64.8               126.0 ft
                100                   16.2                 7.9 ft
                 80                   10.4                 3.2 ft
                 50                    4.0                 3.0 ft
                 40                    2.6                 2.5 ft
                 20                    0.6                 1.0 ft
     -------------------------------------------------------------------
     Large droplets have the highest probability of contacting the target but 
result in fewer droplets per unit volume.  Hence, coverage becomes a problem.  
Small droplets result in many more droplets of spray mixture (one drop, 1,000 
microns in diameter, is equal to 1,000 drops, 100 microns in diameter) and 
better coverage but greater drift problems and lower deposition.  If drift 
becomes too great, loss in control can be expected.
     The major variables used to control droplet size include:
  Nozzle size--usually larger nozzles produce large drops.
  Pressure at the nozzle--lower pressures produce larger droplets.
  Nozzle type--generally fan, cone, and rotary nozzles produce smaller droplets
  than jet-type nozzles.
  Orientation of nozzle on spray boom--nozzles pointing to the back or the rear
  of the aircraft produce large droplets.
  Aircraft speed--the faster the aircraft, the smaller the droplets.
  Addatives--oil-water emulsions, foam-producing agents, and materials which 
  increase the viscosity--increase droplet size and/or lifetime.

     A variable which circumvents the drop-size problem is the use of systemic 
or translocated materials.  Another is use of presieved formulations of 
granular materials to limit particle size to 100 microns or greater.  Avoiding 
agitation that creates dust will limit drift problems.

     To help the grower and applicator select the aerial application system to 
use, rough guidelines on drop-size range, recoveries, and uses are given in 
Table 4.
     The major way to maintain coverage and to insure deposit is to increase 
gallons applied per acre.  By using nozzles which deliver droplets in the 300- 
to 400-micron range and by increasing the number of gallons per acre up to 10, 
coverage and deposit can be maintained.  This is especially critical for 
protective, nonsystemic fungicides.  Unfortunately this creates a cost dilemma.
Increasing gallonage decreases the number of acres that can be treated per 
flight and thus increases cost.  Usually the aerial applicator will have to 
increase the charges for ferrying and mixing time.

     The problem of drift control should not be minimized.  The drift of 
agricultural chemicals to nontarget areas can create major problems.  Wherever 
possible or practical, plan aerial application techniques to minimize drift 
problems.
Table 4.  Aircraft Spray Drop Size Range, Approximate Recoveries, and Uses
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                 Drip-size   Percent 
Spray descriptions  Selected     ranges in   estimated
& atomizers         atomizers*   microns**   Deposit       General uses
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fine sprays:        D6-45 down   100-300      40-80    Mainly for forest pesti-
Cone and fan nozzles (50-100psi)                       cide chemicals and large
and rotary atomizers                                   area vector control with
                                                       low dosages of low-
                                                       toxicity and rapid-
                                                       degradation chemicals.
                                                       Also for agricultural
                                                       insect pathogens.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Medium sprays:      D6-46 down   300-400     70-90     Commonly used spray drop
Cone and fan nozzles (30-50psi)                        size for all low-
and rotary atomizers                                   toxicity agricultural
                                                       chemicals where good
                                                       coverage is necessary.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                 Drip-size   Percent 
Spray descriptions  Selected     ranges in   estimated
& atomizers         atomizers*   microns**   Deposit       General uses
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Coarse sprays:      D6-46 back   400-600      85-98    Recommended for toxic
Cone and fan nozzles (30-50psi) with additives         pesticides of restricted
and spray additives                                    classification where
                                                       thorough plant coverage
                                                       is not essential.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Minimum-drift      D4 to D8 down  800-1,000    95-98   Recommended for all 
sprays:            at less than  with additives        toxic, restricted herbi-
Jet Nozzles and    60 mph; back                        cides, such as phenoxy
spray additives    for over 60                         acids, within the 
                   mph                                 limitations of the
                   (30-50 psi)                         growing season and near-
                                                       ness to susceptible 
                                                       crops.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
* Numbers refer to Spraying Systems Co. nozzles, and down or back refers to 
  position on aircraft boom.
** Drop size as determined with water-base sprays; oils would give smaller 
   drops.
1.  From The Use of Aircraft in Agriculture, 1974, by N.B. Akesson and W.E. 
    Yates, (FAO).
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AIRCRAFT SPRAYER CALIBRATION / FUNDAMENTALS                  
-DOC-
                  AIRCRAFT SPRAYER CALIBRATION / FUNDAMENTALS
                 F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

     Calibrating a sprayer is determining how much spray mix must be delivered 
from the nozzles to yield the required amount per acre.  Calibration takes 
time.  However, it is necessary for pesticides to do their job.

     The nozzle type and pressure should be selected for the pesticides being 
used and atomization required for the job.  The application rate in gallons per
acre will be determined by the crop being treated and by the label of the 
pesticide being applied.

     The job of the applicator is to achieve the desired application rate by 
coordinating the gallons per minute and the acres per minute, since they are 
independent of each other.  The requirements for a good application are:  (1) a
pump-nozzle system of the proper type correctly adjusted and (2) swath width 
and vehicle speed coordinated with the pump-nozzle system output.  The operator
is the most important factor of all because he is the only one with the ability
to think.  The most expensive pump or the finest boom mounted on the finest 
aircraft cannot compensate for a poor operator.  The basic steps in sprayer 
calibration are:
 --  Select the size and number of nozzle tips which will deliver the correct 
     number of gallons per minute at the operating pressure of your system.  
     Use the nozzle manufacturer's specifications as a guide.
 --  Make a trial run using water and dye to determine effective swath width 
     and uniformity of deposition.
 --  Determine the acres your aircraft system treats per minute at the speed 
     and height you plan to fly.
 --  Figure the gallons you must spray per minute to apply the recommended 
     rate.
 --  Make a trial run to insure that the aircraft is dispersing the desired 
     gallons spray per minute.
 --  Determine the amount of chemical to add to the tank.

Basic Formulas for Aircraft Calibration

Liquids                             
                                    gallons sprayed per minute
                Gallons per acre =  --------------------------
                                    acres covered per minute
Dry Materials
                                     pounds spread per minute
                  Pounds per acre =  ------------------------
                                     acres covered per minute

Liquid or Dry
                             2 x swath width(ft) x ground speed(mph)
          Acres per minute = ---------------------------------------
                                          100

     Regardless of the type of applications equipment used, the acres per 
minute can be determined in the above manner.

     The two methods of practical importance for changing gpm of a spray system
are to change nozzle size for large changes and adjust the pressure regulator 
for small changes.  Adjusting the regulator is primarily for small flow changes
because the flow varies as the square of the pressure (the pressure would have 
to be increased 4 times to double the flow), and it is often necessary to 
operate within a relatively narrow pressure range.
     The acres covered per minute can be changed by varying the forward speed 
of the aircraft and the swath width being sprayed.  Acres covered per minute 
increase with a faster speed and a wider swath width, while a slower speed and 
a narrower swath decrease the acres covered per minute.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AIRCRAFT SPRAYER CALIBRATION                         
-DOC-
                         AIRCRAFT SPRAYER CALIBRATION
                 F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

     The following example will explain the basic steps.  Your aircraft has a 
300 gallon tank.  The effective swath width is 50 feet.  You plan to spray at 
100 mph at a height of 8 - 10 feet.  The chemical is to be applied at the rate 
of 1 pint per 3 gallons of spray per acre.  The operating pressure will be 40 
psi.

 - Determine acres per minute covered.

                                 2 x swath width(ft) x speed(mph)
              Acres per minute = --------------------------------
                                           1000
     
                 2 x 50 x 100
In our example,  ------------ = 10 acres per minute
                    1000
     The table below will tell you the acres covered per minute when swath 
width and aircraft speed are known.

                            Acres per Minute Chart
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                   Acres Per Minute Covered for a Given Swath Width
Speed                                   (feet)
(MPH)       30       35      40       45      50      75       100      200
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  40       2.4      2.8     3.2      3.6     4.0     6.0       8.0     16.0
  50       3.0      3.5     4.0      4.5     5.0     7.5      10.0     20.0
  60       3.6      4.2     4.8      5.4     6.0     9.0      12.0     24.0
  70       4.2      4.9     5.6      6.3     7.0    10.5      14.0     28.0
  80       4.8      5.6     6.4      7.2     8.0    12.0      16.0     32.0
  90       5.4      6.3     7.2      8.1     9.0    13.5      18.0     36.0
 100       6.0      7.0     8.0      9.0    10.0    15.0      20.0     40.0
 110       6.6      7.7     8.8      9.9    11.0    16.5      22.0     44.0
 120       7.2      8.4     9.6     10.8    12.0    18.0      24.0     48.0
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Determine gallons per minute (gpm) required.  In our example 3 x 10 = 30 
  gallons per minute.  Be sure your pump can deliver this volume.

  Select the nozzles.  First determine the gpm per nozzle that would deliver 
  the required 30 gpm flow.  Most agricultural aircraft booms can accommodate 
  about 40 nozzles; but most applicators prefer to use the smallest number that
  will provide a uniform pattern.  Let's assume you choose to use 26 nozzles.  
  The gpm per nozzle is determined this way:

                                        gpm required
                       gpm per nozzle = ----------------
                                        number of nozzles

                30
In our example, --  =  1.16 gpm per nozzle
                26
     You chose a pressure of 40 psi.  Using the manufacturer's catalog, select 
a nozzle delivering 1.16 gpm at 40 psi.  You may find that the nozzle closest 
to your needs delivers only 1.10 gpm.  This small difference can be adjusted by
increasing the pressure.
     Make a trial run to check the system.  After installing 26 of the selected
nozzles, make a trial calibration test flight to be sure you are spraying at 
the correct rate.

     Fill the tanks with water to a known level on a level apron or strip.  Fly
the aircraft at the selected 100 mph air speed and at the selected pressure for
a timed period (60 seconds in this example).  Bring the aircraft back to the 
same point and measure the amount of water needed to refill the tank to the 
original mark.  Divide the number of gallons used by the number of acres (10 in
this example) treated to determine the gallons you are spraying per acre.

     Determine the amount of chemical to add to the tank.

      Chemical per tank = acres per tank x chemical recommended per acre

                                        gallons per tank
                       Acres per tank = ----------------
                                        gallons per acre
     In our example,

300 gallons per tank
 ------------------- = 100 acres per tank
 3 gallons per acre

100 acres per tank x 1 pint per acre = 100 pints (12.5 gallons) per tank.


SAMPLE CALIBRATION PROBLEMS

     Example 1:  An aircraft is to be used to apply a pesticide.  The operator 
has been spraying with the same nozzles for some time and wants to recalibrate 
the aircraft to compensate for nozzle wear.  The effective swath width of the 
aircraft is 40 feet and it sprays while flying at 100 mph.  The spray tank has 
a 240 gallon capacity.  The pesticide label calls for 2 quarts of pesticide per
acre.  How many acres can be sprayed with the 240 gallons and how much 
pesticide should be added to the tank?
Step 1:  Write the basic formula
                                        gpm
                                gpa = ---------
                                      acres/min
     The two factors gpm and acres/min must be determined from the information 
given.

Step 2:  Determine gpm by the refill method.  Assume the operator sprays for 2 
minutes and it takes 160 gallons to refill the tank.

                liquid needed to restore level (gal)      160
          gpm = ------------------------------------  =   ---    =  80
                    time interval(min)                     2

Step 3:  Determine acres/min.

                   2 x swath width (ft) x speed (mph)   2 x 40 x 100 
      Acres/min = ---------------------------------- = ------------  =  8
                             1000                           1000
Step 4:  Determine gallons per acre.
                                  gpm          80 
                       gpa = -------------  =  --  =  10
                               acres/min       8
     
     Since the tank holds 240 gallons and the aircraft applies 10 gallons per 
acre, the acres sprayed per tank is:

               240 gal/tank
Acres/tank  =  -------------  =  24
               10 gal/acre

     The amount of pesticide to add per tank can now be determined.

Pesticide/tank = 24 acres/tank x amount recommended/acre = 24 x 2 qts = 48 qts 
or 12 gals.
Example 2.  An aircraft has a 40 foot swath width and sprays while flying at 
100 mph.  The centrifugal pump on the aircraft has a maximum flow of 50 gpm 
when operating against 40 psi pressure which is the pressure normally used by 
the applicator.  The aircraft's boom will accommodate 30 nozzles.  The spray 
tank has a 300 gallon capacity.  The chemical used is recommended at 1 pint per
acre in 5 gallons per acre of spray mix.  Assuming that a nozzle is placed at 
all 30 points on the boom, what nozzles are needed?  How much chemical should 
be added to the tank?

Step 1.  Write the basic formula
                                        gpm
                             gpa =  -------------
                                      acres/min

     In this example the desired gpa is known to be 5 gallons per acre.  The 
acres per minute is not known but can be determined.

Step 2.  Determine acres/min
                               2 x 40 x 100
                  acres/min = --------------  = 8.0 acres/min
                                   1000
Step 3.  Determine gpm required

                    gpm = gpa x acres/min = 5 x 8.0 = 40.0

     Since the needed gpm is less than the pump capaicty, the application rate 
is possible.

Step 4.  Determine the gpm per nozzle
                                  total gpm         40.0
              gpm/nozzle =  -------------------- =  ----- = 1.33
                             number of nozzles        30
Step 5.  Select the proper cone nozzle from the catalog.

     The nearest disc type cone spray tip is a D6-46 which delivers 1.10 gpm at
40 psi.  This is less than desired so the gpa will be less.

                           gpm actual   1.10 x 30   33.0
              gpa actual = ---------- = --------- = ---- = 4.125
                           acres/min       8.0       8.0
                                     tank capacity(gals)    300
       The acres covered per tanks = ------------------- = ----- = 72.7
                                          gals/acre        4.125

     The chemical to add to the tank is:

Chemical added per tank = acres per tank x amount per acre = 72.7 x 1 = 72.7 
pints or 9.1 gallons.

     A timed spraying would have to be conducted after nozzling the aircraft to
determine the actual gpm because the pressure at the nozzle has to be 40 psi to
achieve the desried flow.  It is not uncommon to find the output is 
considerably less than the desired amount because of pressure losses in the 
piping downstream from the aircraft's pressure gauge tap.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AERIAL APPLICATION TROUBLE SHOOTING                      
-DOC-
                      AERIAL APPLICATION TROUBLE SHOOTING
                 F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

     If you failed to control the pest, did not get the desired response, or 
you did affect a nontarget area, and you applied the RIGHT CHEMICAL at the 
RIGHT TIME and at the RIGHT RATE, chances are you had a drift or coverage 
problem.  Here are some common problems that result in misapplication:

  Nozzles too far out on wing tip.  Spray material released from nozzles on the
extremities of wing tip are caught in wing-tip vortices.  This extends the path
of travel of droplet and results in its drying before contacting the target.  
Removing nozzles from the wing tips will not reduce the swath width.

  Insufficient nozzles to the right or left of the belly of the aircraft 
(fuselage).  A light area of deposition often occurs just right or left of the 
fuselage, depending on direction of propeller rotation due to propeller 
vortices.  More nozzles should be added either right or left of the fuselage.  
Often nozzles removed from the wing tip can be added with no change in volume 
or gallons per minute.
  Nozzles pointed down.  Nozzles pointed down will create small droplets 
(fines) due to wind sheer and have too short a life span to contact target.  
Such droplets will drift and result in decreased deposition (reduced rates per 
acre) and possibly cause unwanted effects in nontarget areas.  Pointing nozzles
to rear of aircraft by rotating boom will increase droplet size.

  Nozzles pointing forward.  Spray material washes back on the nozzle and 
creates excessively large droplets which can cause plant injury.  Nozzles 
should be pointed down or back, NOT FORWARD!

  Nozzles located in "burble area"--behind and slightly above wing.  Spray 
materials will deposit on nozzle and boom because of erratic wind currents in 
the burble area and create excessively large droplets which may cause 
phytotoxic responses (plant injury).  Nozzle tips should be located just below 
the trailing edge of the wing.

  Turbulent air conditions.  Inversions are considered ideal for aerial 
application.  Inversions exist when the air 30 feet from the ground is warmer 
than the air 3 feet from the ground.  Usually the air next to the ground is 
warmer than the air above.  When strong, lateral winds exist and the air next 
to the ground is warmer, turbulent air conditions exist which can contribute 
significantly to drift.  Avoid spraying during turbulent air conditions.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOUSEHOLD INSECTS                               
-DOC-

                               HOUSEHOLD INSECTS
                      J. B. KISSAM, EXTENSION ENTOMOLOGIST

PEST:   FOOD VISITING INSECTS - HOUSEFLIES* and other flies (blow flies,
        fruit flies, etc.)
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

synergized             Automatic or manually applied   Cover or remove foods 
pyrethrins**           space sprays. Apply total       in food preparation 
aerosol sprays         release aerosols as per label   areas. Do not remain 
(0.1-1.5%)             instructions. Close off         in treated areas. 
                       treated area for several        Ventilate before re-
                       hours for best results.         entry. Available under
                                                       many labels for home-
                                                       owner use.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

ULV concentrates       Apply undiluted as per label    There are many 
(3-5% pyrethrins)**    instructions with aerosol-      pyrethin formulations
                       generating equipment, such      and products. Study 
                       as Micro-Gen or LECO cold       labels carefully before
                       foggers.                        selecting or using 
                                                       these products.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
dilute oil sprays**    Dilute with mineral oil or      Concentrates are
from 1-5% pyrethrin    petroleum distillates as        normally sold for use 
concentrates           per label instructions.         by commercail appli-
                       Apply in coarse mist or         cators only.
                       fogging equipment such as
                       Challenger or Microsol
                       machines.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

resmethrin (synthetic  Space spray. Apply same as
pyrethroid) aerosol    for pyrethrin aerosols or
sprays (0.25%          ULV treatments.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
VAPONA EC (23.0)       Contact and bait spray. Out-    Restrictions same as 
0.5% water base        door living areas, loading      above. Add 1 lb sugar/
spray                  docks, garbage collection       gal spray to make bait
                       points, etc. Mix 5 tbsp/gal     spray. Twice weekly 
                       water.                          bait/sprays may be 
                                                       necessary for best 
                                                       results. For sale and 
                                                       use by trained appli-
                                                       cators only.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

VAPONA 0.1-0.5%        Apply minimum mist to fill      Not for use in food
Aerosol sprays         treated areas.  Close off       preparation areas. 
                       treated areas for several       Available to home
                       hours.  Aerate before           owners. Used in mixture
                       re-entry.                       with other ingredients.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
dichlorvos VAPONA      Hang in garbage cans or areas   Vapona strips cannot be
18.6% resin strips     enclosed where flies are a      used in food prepara-
                       problem.                        tion areas or in rooms
                                                       where children are 
                                                       sleeping.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

methomyl 1% bait       Dry Bait: Ready to use.  Use    Avoid placing bait where 
  PURINA FLY PATROL,   1/4 lb/500 sq ft.               children, pets or other
  IMPROVED GOLDEN                                      animals can contact it.
  MALDRIN, etc.                                       
  DDVP 0.5% bait       Dry Bait:  Same as above.
 (various tradenames)  
bomyl 1% (Fly Bait     Dry Bait:  Same as above.
  Grits)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
dimethoate CYGON 2E    1% Spray:  Treat vegetation     Do not contaminate water 
(23.4%)                and fly resting and breeding    or food intended for
                       areas.  Mix 8 tbsp 23.4%        human or animal use. 
                       Cygon/gal water.                
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos           0.5% Spray:  Treat perimeter    Do not treat ornamentals 
  DURSBAN LO (low      and outside surface of build-   or flowering plants, as
  odor) 41.5% EC       ings.                           injury may occur.  For 
                                                       use by professional or
                                                       trained applicator only.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
chlorpyrifos (0.86%    Residual latex paint.  Paint    In tests at Clemson 
paint) INSECTA-PAINT,  surfaces attractive to house    University, this paint 
other tradenames       flies.                          proved very effective in
                                                       killing resting house- 
                                                       flies and other insects
                                                       using surface.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos (61.5%)   Residual latex paint additive.  The paint additive 
  CPF INSECTICIDE      Mix 1.87 fl oz/gal exterior     should be effective in 
                       latex paint.                    any good quality 
                                                       exterior latex paint. 
                                                       Look for this product at
                                                       paint stores.
_______________________________________________________________________________

   *Sanitation is the key to urban fly control. Garbage cans must be emptied 
frequently and edible garbage must be buried at approved landfills to prevent 
fly breeding in urban areas.  Bait sprays (i.e. Vapona, etc.) or sugar baits 
used in garbage cans help prevent breeding.

  **These aerosol, mist, or ULV sprays are also useful for knockdown and 
control of other flying insects in the home, such as moths, beetles, wasps, 
etc.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  COCKROACHES*
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  COCKROACHES*
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                   
diazinon 2-4 lb ai/    0.5-1.0% Residual Spray: Apply  Do not contaminate food-
gal EC or oil          as spot spray along baseboards, stuffs, utensils, or 
concentrates           under sinks, appliances, etc.   food preparation areas.
                       Treat inside darkened areas     Avoid treating areas 
                       such as closets.  Use of 0.5    where children or pets
                       Vapona with diazinon for        may frequent.  Apply by
                       flushing action will improve    crack-and-crevice method
                       effectiveness of residual.      only in food areas of
                       Mix 2 1/2 tbsp/gal of 4E or     food handling establish-
                       5 tbsp 2E/gal water for 0.5%    ments.  Certain diazinon
                       rate.  Double these amounts     formulations are sold 
                       for 1% rate.                    for homeowner use.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

micro-encapsulated     1% Residual Spray: See label    Do not use in edible-
diazinon, KNOX OUT     for mixing and application      product areas of food-
2FM, PRENTOX DNZ       instructions.                   processing plants, 
2MEE, etc. (2 lb                                       restaurants, etc., 
ai/gal)                                                except as a crack-and-
                                                       crevice treatment. 
                                                       Otherwise, apply same as
                                                       for diazinon.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon 0.5% aerosol  Apply same as diazinon EC.      Read label instructions 
with pyrethrins        Ready to use.                   before use.  These pro-
(various products)                                     ducts generally avail-
                                                       able to homeowners.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon 2% dust       Hand Dust:  Apply by bulb       Avoid over-application 
                       duster or similar applicator    or introducing dust into
                       to cracks, crevices and other   the air. Treat dry areas
                       surfaces frequented by in-      only.  For use by PCO's
                       sects.                          only.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
propoxur BAYGON 1.5    1% Residual Oil or Water        For sale only to commer-
lb/gal EC, 1/4 lb      Spray:  Apply as as diazinon    cial applicators.  
gal oil soluble con-                                   Restrictions same as for
centrate (OSC), or                                     diazinon.
70% WP
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
BAYGON 0.5-1% aerosol  Pressurized Spray: Apply same   This formulation (with
(various products)     as diazinon.  Ready to use.     other active ingredi- 
                                                       ents) sold for homeowner
                                                       use.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BAYGON 2% bait         Ready-to-Use Granules: 4 oz/    Avoid placement where
                       1,000 sq ft.  Apply in out-of   children or pets can 
                       way places.                     pick up bait.  Do not
                                                       expect Baygon bait to
                                                       handle heavy infestation
                                                       of cockroaches, but it 
                                                       is an excellent supple-
                                                       ment to extend control
                                                       where cockroaches reoc- 
                                                       cur.  Bait must be in
                                                       protected bait boxes in
                                                       idible food areas of
                                                       commercial establish- 
                                                       ments.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

malathion 57% EC       3% Residual Spray:  Use         Malathion is safe but
                       premium grade only.  Apply      least effective of the
                       same as diazinon.               cockroach materials
                                                       recommmended.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bendiocarb             0.25-0.5% Residual Spray:       Restrictions same as
  FICAM W 76% powder   Apply same as diazinon.         diazinon.  For sale only
                       Follow label instructions       to commercial applica- 
                       for other information. One      tors.  Ficam W settles
                       packet (0.4oz)/gal water        rapidly and must be
                       makes 0.25% suspension.         agitated frequently
                                                       while spraying.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

FICAM PLUS WP          0.25% or 0.5% Spray             Pyrethrins provide 
29.45% bendiocarb      w/pyrethrins: Mix one packet    flushing action and
3.06% pyrethrins       for 0.25% or two packets for    knockdown of cock- 
                       0.5% spray.                     roaches.  Same comment
                                                       on agitation as above.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FICAM 1% dust          Ready to Use: Apply with hand,  Use only as crack-and-
                       power or bulb dusters to areas  crevice treatment in 
                       occupied by pests at approxi-   food areas.  Treatment
                       mate reate of 1/3-2/3 oz/sq     area is not to exceed 
                       yd of surface.                  2 sq ft in food areas.
                                                       Avoid introducing dust
                                                       into the air.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

fenvalerate            0.1-0.2% Residual Spray:        For use by trained per-
  PYRID 0.5 lb ai/     Dilute in oil or water.  Mix    sonnel only.  Minimize 
  gal (7.12%)          4 fl oz/gal water for initial   use of synthetic pyre-
                       treatment (0.2%).  See lable    throid insecticides such
                       for additional instructions.    as PYRID to reduce 
                                                       resistance buildup to 
                                                       this type product.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

cypermethrin           0.1-0.2% Residual Spray: 1-2    Do not use in food pre-
  DEMON 40WP           scoops (.33-.66 oz) 1 gal       paration areas.  To
      35.6WP           water.  Pre-measured packets    minimize the buildup of
                       1 or 2/gal water (.33 or .66    pyrethroid resistance 
                       oz/gal water)                   use other class residual
                                                       insecticides on alter- 
                                                       nating basis.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
acephate               0.75-1.0% Residual Spray:       For professional appli-
  ORTHENE 23.7% EC,    Follow label instructions.      cator use only.
  97% Spray Conc.      0.5-1.0%: Mix 1/2 or 1 pack
                       per gal spray.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DDVP or dichlorvos*    0.5% Contact Spray:  Apply      Restrictions same as for
  VAPONA 23.0% EC or   either oil or water spray       diazinon.  Vapona is 
  41% EC               same as diazinon.  Mix 5        often used as a flushing
                       tbsp/gal water or 4 tbsp/       contact agent to make 
                       gal oil carrier.  Use 1/2       residuals (Baygon, 
                       amount above for 4EC.           Dursban, Diazinon, etc.)
                                                       more effective.  
                                                       CAUTION: Vapona is very
                                                       toxic in concentrate 
                                                       form and may cause 
                                                       carpet staining.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

VAPONA aerosol*        0.5-7% Pressurized Spray:       The 7% aerosol is for 
(various products and  Apply according to label        commercial applicator 
combinations with      instructions.                   use only.. Household 
residual insecticides)                                 aerosols containing DDVP
                                                       (Vapona) are very prac-
                                                       tical for the homeowner
                                                       for quick kill and 
                                                       flushing of cockroaches.
                                                       CAUTION: Check for color
                                                       fastness before treating
                                                       carpeted rooms.
*May be sold in combination with other ingredients.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos* DURSBAN  0.5% Residual Spray:  See       Restrictions same as for
2EC, 4LO (low odor),   label for mixing various        diazinon.  For sale only 
4E, and 1ME (micro-    formulations.  Chlorpyrifos     to commercial applica- 
encapsulated)          is also formulated with         tors.  
                       dichlorvos (Vapona) in           
                       several products.               

NOTE: Killmaster II chlorpyrifos formulation registered by EPA is for 
RESTRICTED USE.  The formulations mentioned here are not restricted pesticides.
Do not tank mix Dursban with Vapona (dichlorvos) insecticides.

*May be sold in combination with other ingredients.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________


R KILLMASTER II        2% Residual - Read to Use       NOTE: KILLMASTER is a
                       Solution:  For brush, paint,    very concentrated solu-
                       roller, or pinstream spray      tion.  Follow label 
                       application.                    instructions carefully.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DURSBAN 9.75% EC       0.75% Residual Spray:  Mix      This product is readily
concentrate            15 oz container with 1 gal      available in S.C. and is
(RID-A-BUG )           water.  Treat same as for       for homeowner use.
                       diazinon.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DURSBAN 0.78% spray    Pre-mixed Residual Spray:       Same as Dursban 9.75%EC.
ready to use (RID-     Apply without mixing same
A-BUG ) with appli-    as diazinon.
cator
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

DURSBAN aerosols*      0.5% Pressurized Spray:         Restrictions same as for
(various products)     Apply same as diazinon.         diazinon.  For homeowner
                                                       use.
*May be sold in combination with other ingredients.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DURSBAN 0.5% bait      Apply tsp amount to bait        Sold through PCO 
                       stations.  Place on paper or    suppliers.
                       foil to facilitate removal.
                       Replace at 4 to 6-wk intervals.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

AMDRO, MAXFORCE,       Bait Station:  Ready to use.    Bait stations are good 
COMBAT bait (1.65%                                     for maintaining suppres-
hydramethylnon)                                        sion following cleanout
                                                       treatments.  Sold for
                                                       homeowner and commercial
                                                       markets.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GENCOR 5E              Spray:  Mix 7.5 ml/gal water.   Gencor is an IGR which
(hydroprene)           Apply at 1 gal/1,500 sq ft.     slowly affects cockroach
                                                       development.  It can be
                                                       used in conjuction with
                                                       residual sprays for
                                                       extended activity.
GENCOR PLUS fogger     Total Release Fogger:
(0.6% hydroprene,      1 fogger/3,000 cu ft.
0.25% permethrin)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

pyrethrins*, diluted   0.1-0.7% Contact or Flushing    Same as above.  Check
oils, water, aerosols, Sprays: Apply ULV (undiluted)   label for any special
or "total release"     sprays as per label instruc-    hazards, such as turning
aerosols, ULV          tions in aerosol generators     off pilot lights, etc.
formulations (1-5%     such as Micro-Gen or LECO.      NOTE: Total release 
concentrates)          Initial application should be   aerosols containing 
                       repeated 2-3 wk later for       pyrethrins are very use-
                       for best results.               ful for homeowners' do-
                                                       it-yourself" treatments
                                                       when combined with a 
                                                       residual treatment of
                                                       pesticides, such as 
                                                       diazinon, Dursban, Ficam
                                                       or Baygon.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
R propetamphos         0.5-1.0% Residual Spray:  Mix   Restricted pesticide.  
    SAFROTIN 4EC       2 1/2-5 tbsp/gal water depend-  For use by licensed 
                       on severity of the cockroach    Category 7A applicators.
                       problem.                               
    1% dust            Dust:  Apply as crack-and-      Dust is a good supple-
                       crevice treatment.  1/3-2/3     mental measure for spray
                       oz/sq yd is recommended.        treatments especially 
                                                       where electrical or fire
                                                       hazards are a problem.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
resmethrin aerosols    0.25% Spray or 0.25% Aerosol:   Restrictions same as for
(0.25%) oil solutions  Apply 1 gal of diluted oil      diazinon.  Follow label
(1.5-2.75%)            solution/750 sq ft surface.     instructions carefully.
                                                       Complaints about odor 
                                                       have been reported for 
                                                       this product.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
boric acid 80-99%      Tracking Powder: Apply behind   Do not expect quick kill
powder (many trade-    appliances, in wall voids,      of roaches with boric 
names)                 electrical outlets, etc.,       acid. It is a good back-
                       where roaches hide.             up treatment and pro-
                                                       vides long-lasting 
                                                       residual control of 
                                                       cockroaches.
  20% aerosol          Dust:  Sold for crack-and-
                       crevice injection.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
silica aerogel**       Same as for boric acid.         Silica aerogel is an 
                                                       excellent residual for 
                                                       roaches in dry situa- 
                                                       tions.
**Sold as silica aerogel alone or in combination with pyrethrins and residuals 
such as diazinon.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl               2.25% Spray: Mix 7 oz/gal       For use around perimeter
  SEVIN SL (4 lb/gal)  water.                          of residence, outdoor 
                                                       recreational areas, 
                                                       barns, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________

*Five typical cockroaches inhabit South Carolina (German cockroach or waterbug, 
brown-banded or furniture cockroach, oriental or sewer cockroach, the American 
cockroach, and the Smoky brown cockroach).  Other species are present, but 
these five are the most important.

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted. 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  HOUSEHOLD ANTS (Argentine ant, thief ant, pharaoh ant, etc.)
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________
PEST:  HOUSEHOLD ANTS (Argentine ant, thief ant, pharaoh ant, etc.)
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

See insect sprays for cockroaches.                     Ant control inside in-
Commercial baits such as PHARAOHRID                    volves use of residual
(methoprene), DRAX (boric acid),                       sprays along ant trails
COMBAT (AMDRO), BAYGON, DURSBAN are                    and around entry points.
sold for both sweet and grease feeding                 Outdoor treatment of 
ants.                                                  nests/mounds also may be
                                                       needed.  Ant baits 
                                                       (traps) are also useful 
                                                       but slow acting.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
\s
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  OUTSIDE ANTS (outdoor areas)  IMPORTED FIRE ANT (IFA)
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  OUTSIDE ANTS (outdoor areas)  IMPORTED FIRE ANT (IFA)
_______________________________________________________________________________

NOTE:  Mound treatments for IFA (liquid drenches, aerosols, or gases) all 
require follow-up treatment to kill ants in local areas.  IFA will fly back
in so this will be an annual procedure.  Commercial sod and nursery producers 
should be familiar with Plant Quarantine Regulations and Certification 
requirements to help minimize the spread of IFA to non-infested areas.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

0.7% pyrethrin CESSCO  Mound Injection:  See label     Each cylinder should 
AEROSOL INJECTOR       for specific use instructions.  treat 10 to 100 mounds 
                                                       depending on size.
1.0% chlorpyrifos      Mound Injection:  See label.    In tests by Clemson, 
DURSBAN, CESSCO                                        this product gave out-
AEROSOL                                                standing residual 
                                                       control and is more 
                                                       economical than the 
                                                       pyrethrin injector.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

DURSBAN 6.7% EC        Mound Treatment:  Dilute 2 fl   For best results, apply
(several brands)       oz/gal water.  Apply 1-2 gal    in cool weather (65-80 F)
                       of solution/mound to thor-      or in early morning or 
                       oughly wet mound.               late afternoon.  Follow 
                                                       all safety precautions.
DURSBAN dilute         Mound Treatment:  See label.    There are numerous pro-
drenches (from low                                     ducts of varying per- 
and high concen-                                       cent Dursban now sold.
trates)                                                All should be effective.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

DURSBAN 50W            Commercial Sod:  Apply 16 lb    For commercial applica- 
                       formulation (50WP)/acre or      tors only.  Treatment
                       6 oz/1,000 sq ft in enough      will certify sod for 
                       water for coverage.  Irrigate   Plant Quarantine 
                       1/2 in of water immediately     requirements.
                       following application.

         10G           Commercial Sod: Apply 40-60 lb  Treatment will certify 
                       granules/acre.  Follow treat-   sod for Plant Quarantine 
                       ment with 1/2 in irrigation.    requirements.

   2E and 4E           Potted and Balled Nursery       As an alternative to 
                       Stock:  Mix 4 or 8 fl oz/100    dipping, balled plant 
                       gal water.  Dip stock at least  may be watered with
                       30 sec. or until saturated.     chlorpyrifos solution 
                                                       for 3 consecutive days.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
   2E and 4E (cont)                                    Both dipping and water-  
                                                       ing will satisfy Plant
                                                       Quarantine requirements.

DURSBAN 2.5G           Potting Soil:  Mix 1 lb         Plants potted in treated
                       granular/cu yd potting media.   media meet Plant Quaran-
                                                       tine requirements.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon 25% EC        Mound Treatment:  Apply 1 fl    Same as Dursban 6.7% EC.
                       oz (2 tbsp) in minimum of 1-2
                       gal water to each mound.  Re-
                       apply as necessary.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon 5G            Mound Treatment: Apply 1/2 cup/
                       mound.  Wet mound with 1-2 gal
                       water.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         Mound Treatment:  Apply up to   These products can be 
  SEVIMOL 4, 50W,      2 gal solution/mound.  Mix as   used on cropland (for-
  80W, SL (4 lb/gal)   follows:                        age, grasses, and 
                             1 gal      100 gal        pasture) and noncropland
                                                       (recreational areas,
               Sevinmol 4   1 1/2 tbsp  1 1/2 qt       etc.).  
               50W            2-3 tbsp  2-3 lb                     
               80W    1 1/4-1 7/8 tbsp  1 1/4-1 7/8 lb
               SEVIN SL         1 tbsp  1 1/2 qt
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bendiocarb             Mound Treatment:  Apply up to   Thorough treatment to
  FICAM W (76%)        2 gal sol/mound.  Mix 1 packet  ensure penetration of
                       (scoop) in 8 gal water or 2-3   mound is important.
                       tsp/2 gal water.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

acephate               Mound Treatment:  Mix 2 tbsp    Check mounds in 7-10 
  ORTHENE 9.4% EC      9.4% EC/gal water or 1 oz       days for appearance of 
             75SP      75SP/5 gal water.  Apply        new (satellite) mounds
                       1-2 gal/mound to insure         and retreat.
                       thorough wetting.
             75SP      Mound Treatment: Dry powder     Same as above.
                       only.  Apply 2 tsp powder/
                       mound.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AMDRO (0.88%) bait     Mound Treatment: Apply 5 tbsp/  Fire ant bait spoils 
(amidinohydrazone)     mound.  Distribute biat uni-    rapidly once the con-
Available in 1 and     formly 3-4 ft around the        tainer is opened. Reseal 
25 lb bags             mound.  Allow 4-8 wk for        bag and refrigerate to
                       treatment to be effective.      retard spoilage.

_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

AMDRO (cont)           Area Treatment:  Broadcast      Current fire ant baits
                       1 to 1 1/2 lb bait/ac.          are light.  Proper 
                                                       calibration of spreading
                                                       equipment is required to 
                                                       ensure thorough coverage.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PRO-DRONE  (1.2%)      Area Treatment:  Apply by air   Pro-Drone is a new IGR
bait                   or ground equipment at 0.88 lb  (Insect Growth Regula- 
Available in 6 oz      (400 g)/ac/appl.  Make two      tor) which shows pro-
shaker can and 25 lb   applications either spring-     mise for large area
bags.                  fall or fall-spring.            suppression of IFA.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

PRO-DRONE (Cont)                                       Clemson tests show 70-
                                                       80% elimination of ants
                                                       with the spring applica-
                                                       tion and up to 90% re-
                                                       duction of colonies in
                                                       treated area with two 
                                                       applications/yr.  Agri-
                                                       cultural or non-agri-
                                                       cultural land may be 
                                                       treated.
                       Small Areas (yards and Ground:  Pro-Drone will eliminate
                       1st Year: Apply every 2 wk      IFA if used in this 
                                 beginning April       fashion.  It does not 
                                 until June 1. Resume  have to be spread per- 
                                 treatments beginning  fectly uniform.  Most
                                 Sept 1 at 2 wk in-    seeders can spread the
                                 tervals until Nov 1.  bait or it can be spread
                                                       by hand or shaker can.
_______________________________________________________________________________
INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
PRO-DRONE (Cont)       2nd Year: Apply at monthly in-  Pro-Drone as well as 
                                 tervals beginning in  other IFA baits are slow
                                 April until June.     acting.  People must be
                                 Resume treatments in  patient but baits do 
                                 Sept at monthly in-   work.  Favorable weather
                                 tervals until Nov 1.  is required (warm and 
                                                       dry) to ensure bait 
                                                       acceptance by IFA.
                       3rd Year: Continue same as 2nd
                                 year.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LOGIC  (1%) Bait       Area Treatment:  Apply same as  Logic is an IGR bait and
  fenoxycarb           for PRO-DRONE at 1 lb/acre.     is slow in effect like
Available in 1 lb                                      other fire ant baits.
shaker can and 4 lb    Mound Treatment: Apply 1-3 tsp  Apply similarily as des-
box.                   bait/mound.  Distribute bait    cribed for Pro-Drone 
                       around mound at 3-4 ft dist-    bait.
                       ance.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

AFFIRM  (0.011%) Bait  Area Treatment: Apply 1 lb/ac   Affirm has shown extend-
  Avermectin B1, B1a,  as for PRO-DRONE.               ed effect against IFA.
  B1b                  Mound Treatment:  Apply 5-7     It has shown excellent
Available in 1 lb and  tbsp/mound.  Distribute bait    results against IFA and
25 lb bags.            around mound as for Logic       product shelf life seems
                       above.                          to be good (up to 2 yr).
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLEANITE (MC96) 94%L   Mound Treatment: Follow label   This product is a common
1,1,1, trichloro-      instructions for rate.          organic solvent which 
ethane                                                 vaporizes into a heavier
                                                       than air gas.  It will
                                                       kill ants but is no more
                                                       effective than other 
                                                       mound treatments recom-
                                                       mended.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  OUTSIDE ANTS (cornfield ant, carpenter ant, etc.)  
-DOC-

________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  OUTSIDE ANTS (cornfield ant, carpenter ant, etc.)  
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   0.5% Spray: Mix 5 tbsp 25%EC/   Treat band around house.
diazinon               gal water.  Follow label for    Pay special attention to
  SPECTRACIDE EC       Ficam W.                        vents, windows, and door
dendiocarb FICAM W                                     openings to prevent 
  (76%) WP                                             entry of ants.  Ficam W
                                                       for PCO use only.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DURSBAN or diazinon    Follow label instructions.
granular (G) (various
concentrations)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

FICAM 1% dust          Broadcast Treatment:  Apply     Protect bees when using
                       1/3-2/3 oz dust/sq yd. Treat    Ficam dust.  Do not use
                       band 6-10 ft wide around        near gardens, fish pool,
                       structure being protected, or   streams, etc., or apply
                       treat hills or mounds directly. to humans, animals, or 
                                                       animal bedding.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SEVIN SL (4 lb/gal)    Coarse Spray:  2.25% spray.
                       Mix 7 oz/gal water.  Applay as
                       perimeter treatment.
________________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PESTS:  FOOD-DESTROYING INSECTS: PANTRY PESTS (rice weevils, bean weevils, 
-DOC-

PESTS:  FOOD-DESTROYING INSECTS: PANTRY PESTS (rice weevils, bean weevils, 
        saw-tooth grain beetle, cigarette beetles, etc.)
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
pyrethrins 0.1-0.7%    Contact Spray and Flushing      Sanitation and removel 
pressurized sprays or  Agent:  Apply in food storage   of infested food stores
"total release"        areas but do not apply          is important in control-
aerosols               directly to uncovered foods.    ling pantry pests.  Use
                                                       of the pyrethrin "total
                                                       release" aerosol (two
                                                       treatments at 2-wk 
                                                       intervals) is a simple
                                                       and effective pest con-
                                                       trol technique.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pyrethrin concen-      Same as above.  Follow lable    Same as above.
trates 1-5% (for       instructions carefully.
ULV generators)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
malathon 57% EC        Residual Spray and Paint: 3%    Apply as coarse spray or
                       in oil or water. Mix 13 tbsp/   paint to food storage 
                       gal water.                      areas after removing 
                                                       food items. Treat cracks
                                                       and crevices and other
                                                       hiding places of pantry
                                                       pests.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DURSBAN, BAYGON,       Crack-and-Crevice Treatment:    These materials can be
diazinon, DDVP,        Follow label for specific       safely used in food 
KNOXOUT, FICAM PLUS,   guidance on application.        storage and preparation
boric acid, (EC, WP,                                   areas if carefully appl-
D, MEL and several                                     ied following crack-and-
ready-to-use products)                                 crevice procedures. Such
                                                       treatments should help
                                                       eliminate hiding pantry
                                                       pests as well as cock-
                                                       roaches, etc.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PESTS:  BLOOD-FEEDING ARTHROPODS WHICH ATTACK PEOPLE AND ANIMALS
-DOC-

______________________________________________________________________________  

PESTS:  BLOOD-FEEDING ARTHROPODS WHICH ATTACK PEOPLE AND ANIMALS
        Adult mosquitoes, sandflies (punkies), deerflies (tabanid complex),
        blackflies, stable flies
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos           Ground or Aerial Application:   Do not apply Dursban 
  DURSBAN 41.2% or     ULV rates 0.025-0.05 lb/ac      near water containing
  44.4 EC              (0.8-1.6 fl oz) of the 41.2%    valuable crustaceans and
61.5% oil concentrate  EC.  Use oil concentrate        fish.  Follow label in-
                       (61.5% for thermal fogging or   structions carefully.
                       ULV) at the rate of 0.005 to    Protect bees or other 
                       0.01 lb/ac.  Apply to nonfood-  valuable insects in 
                       crop areas only.                treatment areas.  Dense
                                                       foliage may require the
                                                       higher rate of Dursban.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

malathion 91%          Ground or Aerial Application    Same as for Dursban. ULV
concentrate            (ULV): Apply 2-8 fl oz/ac.      malathion may damage 
                       Malathion may be fogged or      automobile paint. Before
                       applied by mist blower in       treating populated area,
                       ground application.             notify people to cover 
                                                       cars or wash them fol- 
                                                       lowing treatment.  With
                                                       malathion aerial appli-
                                                       cation, it is not neces-
                                                       sary to avoid barns, 
                                                       cattle, or forage. State
                                                       24C label permits appli-
                                                       cation by ground ULV at
                                                       20 mph with flow rate of
                                                       4-8.6 oz/min.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

bendiocarb             Ground Application (ULV):       For application to resi-
  FICAM ULV (18.8%     Apply with ULV equipment at     dential, non-food pro-
  1.67 lb/ai/gal)      .0037 to .011 lb/ai/acre        duction areas only.  
                       (2 fl oz/min) at 10 MPH.        FICAM ULV is normally 
                                                       applied undiluted. Heavy
                                                       aromatic naptha (HAN) at
                                                       1:1 dilution is the only
                                                       approved diluent. Do not
                                                       apply close to bodies of
                                                       water (3-400 ft min. 
                                                       distance).
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
malathion 57% EC       Ground (fogging/spray)          For homeowner use as
                       Application: Mix 4.5 fl oz/     supplementary adulticide
                       gal diesel for injection        treatment.
                       through lawn mower or tractor
                       exhaust manifolds. For spray-
                       ing shrubbery, mix 4.5 fl oz/
                       gal water.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
naled 85% concentrate  Ground and Aerial Application   Observe same precautions
(14 lb/gal)            (ULV):  Apply 0.1-0.25 lb/ac    as for Dursban or mala-
                       (approximately 1 gal oil        thion. Naled is extreme-
                       dilution/ac) by aircraft or     ly corrosive to spray 
                       apply ULV 0.5 to 1 oz undi-     equipment.  Such equip-
                       luted material/ac.  For thermal ment must be cleaned 
                       fogging mix 10 oz conc/10 gal   following use.
                       oil.  Apply thermal fog at 40
                       gal/hr.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
resmethrin (SBP-1382)  Ground Application Only: (ULV)  Backpack sprayers typi-
40% ULV concentrate    For backpack (Micro-Gen, etc.)  cally cover 50 ft swath
                       equipment, dilute 4 1/3 fl oz   at 2 mph.  Truck sprayer
                       with 1 gal light oil.  Apply    typically covers 300 ft
                       8 fl oz/ac.  For truck mounted  swath at 5 mph.
                       ULV (LECO HD, etc.) apply 3 fl
                       oz conc/ac.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SBP-1382 SCOURGE       Ground Application:  Mix 70 fl  Same as above.
0.3 lb ai + 0.9 lb     oz product with 1 gal soybean
PB*/gal                oil.  Apply by backpack sprayer
                       at 4.25-8.5 fl oz/ac.  For 
                       truck mounted operation see 
                       label for rates.

                       Aerial Application:  Apply 0.5-3 
                       fl oz/undiluted product/ac.
*Piperonyl butoxide synergist.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
1.51 lb ai + 4.5 lb    Aerial Application Only:  See label
BP/gal                 for application guidance.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
propoxur               Ground or Aerial Application:   This product is toxic to
  BAYGON 70% WP or     Apply 0.05-0.07 lb/ac ai by     fish and wildlife.  Read
  1.5 lb/gal EC        mist blower or 0.05-0.175       and follow label care-
                       lb/ac by ULV aerial applica-    fully.
                       tion (WP formulation only).
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
fenthion               Ground or Aerial Application:   Same restrictions as for
  BAYTEX 93%           Apply 0.05-0.1 lb (2/3-1 1/3 fl Dursban.  Do not treat
  concentrate          oz)/ac. Apply as dilute or ULV  cropland or livestock 
                       spray.                          areas.  ULV aerial 
                                                       application may damage
                                                       automobile paint.  Take
                                                       same precautions as for
                                                       malathion.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PESTS:  MOSQUITO LARVAE* 
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

PESTS:  MOSQUITO LARVAE* 
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

1% pyrethrins gelatin  Hand Treat:  Apply one          Harmful to fish.  Keep
capsules  TOSSITS      capsule/100 sq ft water in      out of lakes, ponds,
                       pools, ditches, catch basins.   streams.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
methoprene             Hand Treat:  Apply briquets     Use in small bodies of
  ALTOSID briquets     to storm drains, settling       water not known as fish
  7.9%                 ponds, etc., where briquets     habitats.
                       are not subject to submersion
                       by debris or storm-flushing
                       action.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

ALTOSID LIQUID         Ground or Aerial Application:   Methoprene affects only
  LARVICIDE A.L.L.     Apply 3-4 fl oz methoprene/ac   third-fourth instar lar-
  5% solution          to flood water areas.           vae.  Use in swamps, 
                                                       marshes, woodland pools
  ALTOSAND sand        Apply 8-10 lb/ac.  Follow       and meadows, dredging 
  granules             Altosid A.L.L. label for        spoil areas, etc.  Sand
                       mixing instructions.            granules are ideal for
                                                       treating flood-water 
                                                       mosquito-breeding areas
                                                       with dense foliage.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

SHEREX AROSUF MSF**    Ground or Aerial Application:   Product does not leave 
  (alcohol polymer)    See label for application       oil film on water, 
                       directions.                     plants, etc., and is 
                                                       nontoxic to nontarget
                                                       aquatic species. Product
                                                       is alternative to apply-
                                                       ing other harder larvi-
                                                       cides in sensitive 
                                                       environments including
                                                       potable water.
________________________________________________________________________________
 *Larvicides may kill fish and other normal nontarget species.  Great care in 
application is required if fish are to be protected.  The organophosphate (OP) 
larvicides are not recommended where OP adulticides are used.  This is neces- 
sary to combat and slow down development of resistance to OP compounds in 
mosquitoes.
**Monomolecular surface film.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  MOSQUITO AND BLACKFLY LARVAE
-DOC-

PEST:  MOSQUITO AND BLACKFLY LARVAE
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

larvicidal oil         Ground or Aerial Application:   Follow label instruc- 
S.C. Mosquito          Apply 3-4 gal/ac depending      tions for preparation of
Larvicide (SC DHEC     upon application method and     S.C. Mosquito Larvicide.
State Label)           amount of vegetative cover.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bacillus               Ground or Aerial Application:   The new biological prod-
  thuringiensis var    See labels for application.     ucts are very effective.
  israelensis sero-                                    For guidance in mosquito
  type H-14, BACTIMOS,                                 control programs, call
  TEKNAR, VECTOBAC,                                    Vector Control Div., 
  etc., WP,F, briquet,                                 SCDHEC, for information.
  G products of vary-
  ing potency (Aedes
  egypti toxic units/mg
  formulation)

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOUSEHOLD INSECTS                                 
-DOC-
                               HOUSEHOLD INSECTS  
                     J. B. Kissam, Extension Entomologist

PEST:  BEDBUGS
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

dichlorvos VAPONA EC,  Contact Spray and Flushing      EC and OS formulations 
  OS concentrates or   Agent:  0.5%.  Mix 5 tbsp/gal   for professional appli-
  0.5% aerosols        water or 4 tbsp/gal oil         cators only.  Treated
                       carrier.  Apply minimum amount  homes should be evacu-
                       to baseboards, wall cracks,     ated and closed tight
                       bedsteads, mattresses, sofas,   following Vapona treat-
                       etc.  Treat attics and entire   ment for at least 8 hrs.
                       premises of infected dwellings. Ventilate thoroughly 
                                                       before reoccupying. 

________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
dichlorvos (cont)                                      Allow mattresses, etc., 
                                                       to dry at least 8 hr be-
                                                       fore reusing.  Do not 
                                                       treat mattresses or bed-
                                                       ding with oil sprays.
_______________________________________________________________________________

pyrethrins, diluted    0.1-0.7% Contact or Flushing    Restrictions same as for
oil or water sprays,   Sprays:  Treatment similar to   Vapona when used for 
aerosols, or "total    Vapona use.  The "total         bedbugs.
release" aerosols      release" aerosol is especially
                       useful when employed in con-
                       junction with residual sprays.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

Other chemicals (See                                   Chemicals such as Bay-  
cockroach control.)                                    gon, Dursban, diazinon, 
                                                       Ficam, etc. are effec- 
                                                       tive against bedbugs.
                                                       They cannot be used to
                                                       treat bedding due to 
                                                       their residual toxicity.
________________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  FLEAS (Animal Quarters)
-DOC-

PEST:  FLEAS (Animal Quarters)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
VAPONA EC or aerosol   0.5% Spray:  Mix same as for    Certain Vapona EC form-
                       bedbugs.  Apply lightly to      ulations are sold only 
                       kennels and other infested      to commercial applica-
                       areas.                          tors. Generally the 0.5%
                                                       aerosol is available to
                                                       homeowners.  Several
                                                       applications will be 
                                                       needed each year due to
                                                       continuous reinfestation.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion 57% EC       2% Spray:  Mix 10 tbsp/gal      Repeat treatment in 3 to
                       water.  Treat infested area     4 wk if necessary.
                       lightly.
       4-5% dust       Hand Dust: Apply 1-2 lb/1,000
                       sq ft infested area to include
                       quarters, yard, and lawn.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl               Hand Dust:  Apply same as 
  SEVIN 5% dust        malathion dust.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bendiocarb             0.25% Spray:  One packet (0.4   Do not treat animal. 
  FICAM W 76%          oz)/gal water makes 0.25% sus-  Keep pet out of quaters
                       pension.  Apply thoroughly to   until spray dries. This
                       animal quarters.                product for commercial  
                                                       use only.  Do not treat
                                                       pet bedding.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
chlorpyrifos (6.7%)    0.5% Spray:  Mix 10.5 fl oz/    Precautions same as 
  STARBAR yard and     gal water.                      above.  This is a home-
  kennel spray                                         owner product and should
                                                       be available.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

linalool 37%           Spray:  Mix 2 fl oz/gal water.  Do not treat pets.
  DEMIZE EC            1 gal spray treats 1,000 sq     Replace bedding after 
(citrus extract        ft.  Apply to pet quarters.     treatment. Avoid contact
toxin)                                                 with skin, eyes, wear  
                                                       protective clothing. For
                                                       commercial applicators 
                                                       only.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FICAM PLUS             0.25% Spray:  Follow label      Do not treat pet bed- 
(29.45% WP) with       for mixing.                     ding.
pyrethrins
  1% dust              Hand Treat:  Direct dust to     Do not treat animal.  
                       pet beds, resting quarters,     Replace animal bedding
                       cracks, crevices.               following treatment.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
diazinon 2-4 lb        0.5% Spray:  Mix 2 1/2 tbsp     Products sold for PCO 
ai/gal EC or oil       4E or 5 tbsp 2E/gal water.      and homeowner use.  Do 
concentrate                                            not treat animal.  Keep
                                                       pets out until spray 
                                                       dries.  Treat sleeping
                                                       quarters thoroughly.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R dioxathion DELTIC    0.25% Residual Spray:  Mix      Treat doghouses, runs,
(DELNAV) 20.7% EC      1 fl oz/gal water.              loafing areas, and in-
                                                       fested outdoor areas
                                                       generally. Let spray dry
                                                       before allowing dogs to
                                                       enter area.  For use by
                                                       certified applicators 
                                                       only.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  FLEAS (On Animals)
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  FLEAS (On Animals)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
malathon 57% EC        Dip or Wash:  Mix 2 tbsp/gal    Do not treat animals 
                       water.  Wet animal thoroughly.  less than 1 mo old.
                       Repeat in 2-3 wk if necessary.

       4% dust         Hand Dust:  Rub dust in         Same as Dip.
                       thoroughly.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Phosmet 11.6% EC       Dip or Wash:  Mix 1 oz/gal      Do not treat dogs less 
  STARBAR 3 way        water.  Dip solution can be     than 8 weeks old.  Do
  dog dip              saved and re-used for up to     not treat more often
                       30 days.                        then every 7 days.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
carbaryl SEVIN 5%      Hand Dust.                      Same as Dip.
  dust
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

dichlorvos (VAPONA),   Flea Collar:  Follow label      Collars are effective if
naled, lindane, pro-   instructions.                   supplemented periodicly
poxur, carbaryl,                                       with premise treatment.
phosmet, chlorpyrifos,
impregnated collars
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  FLEAS (In Residences)
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  FLEAS (In Residences)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

total-release          Space Treatment:  Apply         This treatment kills 
aerosols - several     required number of aerosols     adult fleas only. Repeat
brands and products    to obtain coverage.             treatment in 2-3 wk for
  VAPONA, RONNEL,                                      new emerging adults.
  BAYGON, pyrethrins.                                  Check color fastness of
                                                       carpet before releasing
                                                       Vapona containing aero-
                                                       sols.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

hand-held aerosol      Space Treatment/Knockdown       Pets kept in house must
  pyrethrins 0.1-0.7%  Spray:  Walk through flea-      be removed during treat-
                       infested areas. When attacked,  ment period; preferably
                       spray with aerosol.  Repeat     to veterinarian for de-
                       procedure two to three times/   fleaing.  The key flea
                       wk until attacks cease. This    control is walking 
                       procedure could take 1-3 wk     through infested areas 
                       depending on severity of        to stimulate emergence.
                       infestations.  It is safe       Unless this is done 
                       procedure and anyone can do     fleas in pupal cocoons
                       it.                             will not emerge.  
                                                       Infested outside areas
                                                       around house must be
                                                       treated also while pet
                                                       is away.  See Fleas and
                                                       Ticks outside areas.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
methoprene             Space Treatment and Residual:   Methoprene is an Insect
  PRECOR fogger with   Follow label instructions for   Growth Regulator (IGR).
dichlorvos VAPONA,     dosage, etc.                    Its action is directed
pyrethrins, etc. Sold                                  against the immature 
under many tradenames                                  flea (larvae). This pro-
D-CON, STRIKE, etc.                                    duct should have real
                                                       value in cleaning up 
                                                       heavy residential flea
                                                       populations.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PRECOR 1E (1% EC)      Residual Spray:  Mix 1 fl oz/   Use adulticide to kill
                       gal water.  Apply to infested   adult fleas.  Methoprene
                       areas, i.e. carpet, furniture,  has no effect on adult
                       crack and crevices in floor,    fleas.  May combine 
                       etc.                            PRECOR with adulticide
                                                       for quick knockdown and
                                                       delayed kill of immature
                                                       fleas.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
bendiocarb             0.25% Residual Spray:  Treat    FICAM sold only to com-
  FICAM W 76%          rugs and floor coverings and    mercial applicators.
                       under their edges.  Treat
                       infested furniture also.
FICAM PLUS             0.25% Spray:  Follow label      Pyrethrins provide quick
(29.45% WP)            for mixing.                     adult flea knockdown.
 w/pyrethrins
      1% dust          Hand Treat:  Treat under rugs,
                       cracks, and crevices, etc.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon 0.5% ready-   Residual Spray: Make local-     Household sprays for 
to-use spray           ized application to base-       flea control should be
                       boards, cracks, and crevices,   sprayed over carpets 
                       and under carpets.              with caution.  Usually
                                                       light oil mist from
                                                       aerosol spray will not
                                                       stain.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
diazionon              0.5% Residual Spray:  Same      KNOXOUT must be agitated
  KNOXOUT 2FM (23%)    as for diazionon.  Mix 2 1/2    frequently to prevent 
                       fl oz (5 tbsp)/gal water.       settling of microencap-
                                                       sulated insecticide.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DURSBAN 4LO            0.5% Residual Spray:  0.5%      CAUTION: Same as for 
                       spray.  Follow label mixing     diazinon.
                       and application instructions.

DURSBAN 9.75 EC        0.75% Residual Spray:  Mix      Make sure no children or
concentrate (Rid-A-    15 oz container with 1 gal of   small pets are allowed 
Bug )                  water.  Apply to carpet light-  on treated areas until
                       ly.  Treat cracks in base-      surfaces are dry.  Spot
                       boards, under carpets, under    test carpet for color
                       furniture.                      fastness before using.
                                                       Repeat treatment as 
                                                       needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

DURSBAN 0.78% spray    Pre-Mixed Residual Spray:       Same as Dursban 9.75 EC.
ready to use (RID-A-   Apply same as Dursban 9.75 EC.
BUG ) w/applicator

 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
linalool 37%           Spray: Mix 2 fl oz/gal water    Avoid contact with skin
  DEMIZE EC            and apply at 1 gal/1,000 sq     or eyes.  Protective
(citrus extract        ft of carpet, rugs, etc.        clothing recommended. 
toxin)                                                 For commercial appli- 
                                                       cators only.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R propetamphos         0.5% Residual Spray:  Mix       A new product that is
    SAFROTIN 4EC       2 1/2 tbsp/gal water.           reported to be very 
                                                       effective against fleas.
          1% dust      Dust:  Crack-and-crevice        Restricted for use by 
                       application to infested areas.  Cat. 7A PCOs only.
________________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  FLEAS, TICKS, CHIGGERS (Infested Outdoor Areas) 
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  FLEAS, TICKS, CHIGGERS (Infested Outdoor Areas) 
       (Same as Fleas in Animal Quarters)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

stirofos RABON 50% WP  Area Treatment:  Mix 8 tbsp/    Treat area thoroughly,
                       gal water for 0.5% solution.    especially along foot
                       Apply at rate of 25-50 gal/ac.  paths.  This is one of 
                                                       the most effective 
                                                       insecticides for outdoor
                                                       tick control.  This pro-
                                                       duct sold primarily for
                                                       poultry ectoparasite 
                                                       control.  Ask farm 
                                                       supply dealers for info
                                                       on product.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   Area Treatment:  .25 or .5%     Chlorpyrifos is an 
41.2% Ec, 2 E (22.4%), spray.  See label for mixing    excellent 
1 E (12.6%)            instructions.                   product for outdoor pest
                                                       control.  The low 
                                                       strength formulation 
                                                       should be available for
                                                       homeowners.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FICAM W 76%            Border Treatment:  Mix a 0.25%  Do not contaminate food
                       spray. Treat 6- to 10-ft band   or animal feed.  Toxic
                       around building foundations     to bees.  Do not spray
                       and sidewalls to height of      plants being visited by
                       2-3 ft.                         bees.  FICAM available
                                                       only to commercial
                                                       applicators.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R dioxathion* DELTIC   Area Treatment:  Mix 2 fl oz/   Observe label precau-
    (20.7% EC)         gal water for 0.5% spray.       tions.  Read directions
                       Apply 2.5-5 gal/1,000 sq ft.    carefully before appli-
                                                       cation.  Allow 1-2 days
                                                       for initial kill.
                                                       Retreatment may be 
                                                       necessary in 30 days.
                                                       For licensed applicators
                                                       only.
*Solutions of dioxathion greater than 3.0% are restricted for domestic use.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               Area Treatment (lawns, yards):  Water treat area
25% Ec, 50 WP          Mix 2 tbsp/3 gal water or       thoroughly.
                       7 1/2 tbsp 50 WP/gal water.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon 2-5 G         Area Treatment (lawns, yards):   Water treat area
                       Apply 5-7.5 lb/1,000 sq ft       thoroughly.
                       area.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
carbaryl SEVIN 80 WP,  Area Treatment: Mix 2 1/2 tbsp  Repeat treatment in 2-3
50 WP                  (80%) or 4 tbsp (50%) in 3-4    wk if adult fleas are
                       gal water and apply to 100 sq   still present.
                       ft of infested area.

SEVIN SL (4 lb/gal)    Area Treatment: Mix 6 1/2 oz/   Same as SEVIN WP above.
                       30-40 gal water and apply to 
                       1,000 sq ft.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  TICKS (Animal quarters)
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  TICKS (Animal quarters)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

VAPONA EC or aerosol   0.5% Spray:  Mix same as for    Certain Vapona EC form-
                       bedbugs.  Apply lightly to      ulations are sold only 
                       kennels and other infested      to commercial applica-
                       areas.                          tors. Generally the 0.5%
                                                       aerosol is available to
                                                       homeowners.  Several
                                                       applications will be 
                                                       needed each year due to
                                                       continuous reinfestation.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion 57% EC       2% Spray:  Mix 10 tbsp/gal      Repeat treatment in 3 to
                       water.  Treat infested area     4 wk if necessary.
                       lightly.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

malathion              Hand Dust: Apply 1-2 lb/1,000   Repeat treatment in 3 to
       4-5% dust       sq ft infested area to include  4 wk if necessary.
                       quarters, yard, and lawn.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
carbaryl               Hand Dust:  Apply same as 
  SEVIN 5% dust        malathion dust.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bendiocarb             0.25% Spray:  One packet (0.4   Do not treat animal. 
  FICAM W 76%          oz)/gal water makes 0.25% sus-  Keep pet out of quaters
                       pension.  Apply thoroughly to   until spray dries. This
                       animal quarters.                product for commercial  
                                                       use only.  Do not treat
                                                       pet bedding.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos (6.7%)    0.5% Spray:  Mix 10.5 fl oz/    Precautions same as 
  STARBAR yard and     gal water.                      above.  This is a home-
  kennel spray                                         owner product and should
                                                       be available.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
linalool 37%           Spray:  Mix 2 fl oz/gal water.  Do not treat pets.
  DEMIZE EC            1 gal spray treats 1,000 sq     Replace bedding after 
(citrus extract        ft.  Apply to pet quarters.     treatment. Avoid contact
toxin)                                                 with skin, eyes, wear  
                                                       protective clothing. For
                                                       commercial applicators 
                                                       only.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

FICAM PLUS             0.25% Spray:  Follow label      Do not treat pet bed- 
(29.45% WP) with       for mixing.                     ding.
pyrethrins
  1% dust              Hand Treat:  Direct dust to     Do not treat animal.  
                       pet beds, resting quarters,     Replace animal bedding
                       cracks, crevices.               following treatment.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon 2-4 lb        0.5% Spray:  Mix 2 1/2 tbsp     Products sold for PCO 
ai/gal EC or oil       4E or 5 tbsp 2E/gal water.      and homeowner use.  Do 
concentrate                                            not treat animal.  Keep
                                                       pets out until spray 
                                                       dries.  Treat sleeping
                                                       quarters thoroughly.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R dioxathion DELTIC    0.25% Residual Spray:  Mix      Treat doghouses, runs,
(DELNAV) 20.7% EC      1 fl oz/gal water.              loafing areas, and in-
                                                       fested outdoor areas
                                                       generally. Let spray dry
                                                       before allowing dogs to
                                                       enter area.  For use by
                                                       certified applicators 
                                                       only.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  TICKS (On People)
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  TICKS (On People)
________________________________________________________________________________
INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

PERMANONE tick         Personal Protectant:  Treat     This is special 24C 
repellent (0.5%        outer clothing to repel and     label for a very effec-
permethrin) aerosol    kill ticks and chiggers.        tive product. This pro-
                                                       duct distributed by
                                                       Forest and Land Services
                                                       In., P.O. Box 47, 
                                                       Warrenton, GA 30828.
                                                       Phone: (404) 465-3241.
________________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DILUTION TABLE FOR PESTICIDES                         
-DOC-
                         DILUTION TABLE FOR PESTICIDES
                       (For Preparing Smaller Quantities)
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator
______________________________________________________________________________

EMULSIFIABLE CONCENTRATES (EC) OR FLOWABLES (F)
______________________________________________________________________________
The following table canbe used to mix different amounts of a spray of the same 
mixture when using liquid formulations.

Water                  Quantity of Liquid Pesticide Material Needed          
100 gal          1/2 pt      1 pt      2 pt      3 pt      4 pt      5 pt
 25 gal            2 oz      4 oz      8 oz     12 oz      1 pt      1 1/4 pt
  5 gal            1 T       2 T       4 T       6 T       8 T      10 T
                             or        or        or        or        or
                             1 oz      2 oz      3 oz      4 oz      5 oz
______________________________________________________________________________
  1 gal          3/4 t    1 1/2 t      3 t      4 1/2 t    6 t or    7 1/2 t
                                                           2 T
______________________________________________________________________________
See EXAMPLE information for more details on next screen.
EXAMPLE:  If the label specified that 3 lb of wettable powder pesticide 
material are to be added to 100 gal of water, then 3 T of the pesticide 
material would make 1 gal of similar spray mixture.

When reducing the amount of spray mixture, be sure to stay in the right column 
and line as indicated above.
______________________________________________________________________________

WETTABLE OR SOLUBLE POWDERS (WP, SP, S)
______________________________________________________________________________

The following table can be used to mix different amounts of the same mixture
when using powdered formulations.

Water                 Quantity of Liquid Pesticide Material Needed            

100 gal            1 lb      2 lb      3 lb      4 lb      5 lb      6 lb 
 25 gal            4 oz      8 oz     12 oz      1 lb      1 1/4 lb  1 1/2 lb
  5 gal            5 T      10 T      15 T or   20 T or   25 T or   30 T or
                                       1 cup    1 1/4 cup 1 1/2 cup  1 3/4 cup
_______________________________________________________________________________
  1 gal            1 T       2 T       3 T       4 T       5 T       6 T

(The above measurements of WP are acceptable for practical purposes.)

When reducing the amount of spray mixture, be sure to stay in the right column 
and line as indicated above.
The above tables are strictly based on information that should be found on the 
label of the particular pesticide that will be used.

For amounts of spray not listed, the tables can be halved, doubled, or 
combinations may be added as needed.

                    EXPLANATION FOR MEASURING ABBREVIATIONS 

WP . . . . . . . . wettable powder               gal . . . . . . . . . gallon
EC . . . . . . . . emulsifiable concentrate      qt  . . . . . . . . . quart
D  . . . . . . . . dust                          pt  . . . . . . . . . pint
G  . . . . . . . . granular                      lb  . . . . . . . . . pound
Sol  . . . . . . . solution                      oz  . . . . . . . . . ounce
t or tsp . . . . . teaspoon                      fl  . . . . . . . . . fluid
T or tbsp  . . . . tablespoon

All spoons, cups, or other measuring utensils that are used to measure any 
pesticides or other chemicals should be clearly marked and kept in the storage 
area under lock and key.
                 HELPFUL MEASURING TABLES FOR MIXING PESTICIDES

Pesticides that are bought in large packages or sizes usually do not include 
instruction for mixing smaller amounts of a spray.  The following table 
compares various measurements that are needed to make smaller amounts of a 
spray.

3 teaspoons . . . . . . . . . . . = 1 tablespoon
2 tablespoons . . . . . . . . . . = 1 fluid ounce = 6 teaspoons
4 tablespoons . . . . . . . . . . = 12 teaspoons = 1/4 cup = 2 fluid ounces
1 cup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . = 16 tablespoons = 8 fluid ounces
2 cups  . . . . . . . . . . . . . = 32 tablespoons = 1 pint = 16 fluid ounces 
2 pints . . . . . . . . . . . . . = 64 tablespoons = 1 quart = 4 level cups
4 quarts  . . . . . . . . . . . . = 8 pints = 1 gallon = 16 level cups
16 ounces . . . . . . . . . . . . = 1 pound
6 tablespoons (level) . . . . . . = approx. 1 oz of dry weight (for WP only)
 
                         DILUTION TABLE FOR PESTICIDES 
               (Given in pounds active ingredient per acre rates)

        This dilution table provides an accurate estimate of the amount of 
cocentration to use when the recommended rate of application is given in pounds 
per acre.

        For effective control of insect, weed, and plant disease pests, it is 
very important to apply the proper amount of pesticide to the infested area.  
Also, it is equally important not to exceed the recommended rate so that plants 
and animals are not injured by too much insecticide.

        A legal tolerance level for pesticide residues has been established in 
parts per million (ppm) for all food crops.  Only by accurate application of 
pesticides at recommended rates can residues be kept within these legal 
tolerance levels.

        Follow the label directions and precaution each time that you apply a 
pesticide.  

    DILUTION TABLE FOR PESTICIDES GIVEN IN POUNDS ACTIVE INGREDIENT PER ACRE
______________________________________________________________________________
                       Amount of Actual Chemical per Acre Recommended

Pesticide   1/8    1/4   1/2    3/4    1     1 1/2    2    2 1/2   3     5
Formulation  lb     lb    lb     lb    lb     lb      lb     lb    lb    lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
                       Amount of Formulation Needed to Obtain the Above Amount
                                        of Actual Chemical
           ____________________________________________________________________

10% - 12% Emulsion Concentrate (contains 1 lb chemical/gal)    
             1     1      2      3     1     1 1/2     2   2 1/2   3     5
             pt    qt     qt     qt    gal    gal     gal   gal   gal   gal
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
15% - 20% Emulsion Concentrate (contains 1 1/4 lb chemical/gal)     
            2/5   4/5   1 3/5  2 2/5  3 1/5  1 1/5  1 3/5   2    2 2/5    4
             qt    qt     qt     qt     qt    gal     gal   gal   gal    gal
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
                       Amount of Actual Chemical per Acre Recommended

Pesticide   1/8    1/4   1/2    3/4    1     1 1/2    2    2 1/2   3     5
Formulation  lb     lb    lb     lb    lb     lb      lb     lb    lb    lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
                       Amount of Formulation Needed to Obtain the Above Amount
                                        of Actual Chemical
           ____________________________________________________________________
25% Emulsion Concentrate (contains 2 lb chemical/gal)
            1/2    1      1      3      2     3       1     5     1 1/2  2 1/2
             pt    pt     qt     pt     qt    qt     gal    qt     gal    gal
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
40% - 50% Emulsion Concentrate (contains 4 lb chemical/gal)
            1/4   1/2     1    1 1/2    1     3       2     5      3      5
             pt    pt     pt     pt     qt    pt      qt    pt     qt     qt
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
50% - 60% Emulsion Concentrate (contains 5 lb chemical/gal)
            1/5   2/5    4/5   1 1/5  1 3/5  1 1/5  1 3/5   2     2 2/5   1
             pt    pt     pt     pt     pt    qt      qt    qt     qt     gal
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
                       Amount of Actual Chemical per Acre Recommended

Pesticide   1/8    1/4   1/2    3/4    1     1 1/2    2    2 1/2   3     5
Formulation  lb     lb    lb     lb    lb     lb      lb     lb    lb    lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
                       Amount of Formulation Needed to Obtain the Above Amount
                                        of Actual Chemical
           ____________________________________________________________________
60% - 65% Emulsion Concentrate (contains 6 lb chemical/gal)
            1/6   1/3    2/3     1    1 1/3   1     2 2/3  3 1/3   2     3 1/3
             pt    pt     pt     pt     pt    qt      pt    pt     qt     qt
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
70% - 75% Emulsion Concentrate (contains 8 lb chemical/gal)
            1/8   1/4    1/2     3/4    1    1 1/2    1    2 1/2   3     2 1/2
             pt    pt     pt     pt     pt    pt      qt    pt     pt     qt
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
15% Wettable Powder
             13  1 2/3  3 1/3    5    6 2/3   10   13 1/3 16 2/3   20   33 1/3
             oz    lb     lb     lb     lb    lb      lb    lb     lb     lb
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
                       Amount of Actual Chemical per Acre Recommended

Pesticide   1/8    1/4   1/2    3/4    1     1 1/2    2    2 1/2   3     5
Formulation  lb     lb    lb     lb    lb     lb      lb     lb    lb    lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
                       Amount of Formulation Needed to Obtain the Above Amount
                                        of Actual Chemical
           ____________________________________________________________________
25% Wettable Powder
            1/2    1      2      3      4     6       8      10    12     20
             lb    lb     lb     lb     lb    lb      lb     lb    lb     lb
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
40% Wettable Powder
             5     10   1 1/4  1 7/8  2 1/2  3 3/4    5    6 1/4  7 1/2 12 1/2
             oz    oz     lb     lb     lb    lb      lb     lb    lb     lb
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
47% Wettable Powder
          4 1/4  8 1/2    17   1 2/3  2 1/8  3 1/5  4 1/4  5 1/3  6 2/5 10 2/3
             oz    oz     oz     lb     lb    lb      lb     lb    lb     lb
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
                       Amount of Actual Chemical per Acre Recommended

Pesticide   1/8    1/4   1/2    3/4    1     1 1/2    2    2 1/2   3     5
Formulation  lb     lb    lb     lb    lb     lb      lb     lb    lb    lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
                       Amount of Formulation Needed to Obtain the Above Amount
                                        of Actual Chemical
           ____________________________________________________________________

50% Wettable Powder
            1/4    1/2    11   1 1/2    2     3       4      5     6      10
             lb     lb    lb     lb     lb    lb      lb     lb    lb     lb
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
65% Wettable Powder
             3      6     3/4  1 1/5  1 1/2  2 1/3    3    3 4/5  4 2/3  7 2/3
             oz     oz    lb     lb     lb    lb      lb     lb    lb     lb
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
75% Wettable Powder
            1/6    1/3    2/3    1    1 1/3   2     2 2/3  3 1/3   4     6 2/3
            lb      lb    lb     lb     lb    lb      lb     lb    lb     lb
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
                       Amount of Actual Chemical per Acre Recommended

Pesticide   1/8    1/4   1/2    3/4    1     1 1/2    2    2 1/2   3     5
Formulation  lb     lb    lb     lb    lb     lb      lb     lb    lb    lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
                       Amount of Formulation Needed to Obtain the Above Amount
                                        of Actual Chemical
           ____________________________________________________________________

80% Wettable Powder
          2 1/2     5     10     15   1 1/4  1 7/8  2 1/2  3 1/8  3 3/4  6 1/4
            oz      oz    oz     oz     lb    lb      lb     lb    lb     lb
_______________________________________________________________________________



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  CHIGGER MITES (Infested Outdoor Areas) 
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  CHIGGER MITES (Infested Outdoor Areas) 
       (Same as Flea, Ticks, Chiggers in Infested Outdoors Areas)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

stirofos RABON 50% WP  Area Treatment:  Mix 8 tbsp/    Treat area thoroughly,
                       gal water for 0.5% solution.    especially along foot
                       Apply at rate of 25-50 gal/ac.  paths.  This is one of 
                                                       the most effective 
                                                       insecticides for outdoor
                                                       tick control.  This pro-
                                                       duct sold primarily for
                                                       poultry ectoparasite 
                                                       control.  Ask farm 
                                                       supply dealers for info
                                                       on product.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   Area Treatment:  .25 or .5%     Chlorpyrifos is an 
41.2% Ec, 2 E (22.4%), spray.  See label for mixing    excellent 
1 E (12.6%)            instructions.                   product for outdoor pest
                                                       control.  The low 
                                                       strength formulation 
                                                       should be available for
                                                       homeowners.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FICAM W 76%            Border Treatment:  Mix a 0.25%  Do not contaminate food
                       spray. Treat 6- to 10-ft band   or animal feed.  Toxic
                       around building foundations     to bees.  Do not spray
                       and sidewalls to height of      plants being visited by
                       2-3 ft.                         bees.  FICAM available
                                                       only to commercial
                                                       applicators.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R dioxathion* DELTIC   Area Treatment:  Mix 2 fl oz/   Observe label precau-
    (20.7% EC)         gal water for 0.5% spray.       tions.  Read directions
                       Apply 2.5-5 gal/1,000 sq ft.    carefully before appli-
                                                       cation.  Allow 1-2 days
                                                       for initial kill.
                                                       Retreatment may be 
                                                       necessary in 30 days.
                                                       For licensed applicators
                                                       only.

*Solutions of dioxathion greater than 3.0% are restricted for domestic use.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon SPECTRACIDE   Area Treatment (lawns, yards):  Water treat area
25% Ec, 50 WP          Mix 2 tbsp/3 gal water or       thoroughly.
                       7 1/2 tbsp 50 WP/gal water.

2-5 G                  Area Treatment (lawns, yards):
                       Apply 5-7.5 lb/1,000 sq ft area.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
carbaryl SEVIN 80 WP,  Area Treatment: Mix 2 1/2 tbsp  Repeat treatment in 2-3
50 WP                  (80%) or 4 tbsp (50%) in 3-4    wk if adult fleas are
                       gal water and apply to 100 sq   still present.
                       ft of infested area.

SEVIN SL (4 lb/gal)    Area Treatment: Mix 6 1/2 oz/   Same as SEVIN WP above.
                       30-40 gal water and apply to 
                       1,000 sq ft.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  CHIGGERS (On People)
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  CHIGGERS (On People)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
ethyl hexanediol       Repellent:  Treat socks and     Persons susceptible 
  RUTGERS 612          lower pant legs.  612 is        (suffer serious reac-
                       effective in reducing           tions) should stay out
                       chigger bites.                  of chigger-infested
                                                       areas.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DEET (OFF, DELPHENE,   Same as for 612.
etc.) N, N-Diethyl-
Meta-toluamide)               
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
flowers of sulfur      Repellent:  Sulfur has a repel-
                       lent action against chiggers,
                       but odor and discoloration of
                       clothing may be a problem.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

PERMANONE tick         Personal Protectant:  Treat     This is special 24C 
repellent (0.5%        outer clothing to repel and     label for a very effec-
permethrin) aerosol    kill ticks and chiggers.        tive product. This pro-
                                                       duct distributed by
                                                       Forest and Land Services
                                                       Inc., P.O. Box 47, 
                                                       Warrenton, GA 30828.
                                                       Phone: (404) 465-3241.
________________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  HEAD, BODY, AND CRAB LICE
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  HEAD, BODY, AND CRAB LICE
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

malathion 1% dust      Hand Treat:  Apply 1 oz dust    Apply thoroughly to 
                       to fully clothed adult. Re-     clothing and to other
                       peat in 2 wk until infes-       louse habitats blank-
                       tation eliminated.              ets, bedding, etc.).

pediculosis control    Hand Treat:  Use undiluted.     Read label for further
(0.3% pyrethrins)      Allow 10 min for effect; then   restrictions and infor-
                       wash off.  Repeat as needed     mation.
                       but not over twice in 24-hr
                       period.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R+C Spray, Triple X,   Aerosol Spray:  Treat infested  Do not spray directly on
RID, etc. (0.3% pyre-  furniture, clothing, areas,     human skin or hair. Sold
thrins)                etc.  Will not stain most       over the counter in drug
                       fabric (see label for addition- stores.
                       al instructions).

A 200 PYRINATE         Liquid or Gel:  Treat surface   Do not repeat treatment
(0.17% pyrethrins)     area (hair or skin) infested    more than two times in 
                       with lice.  Rub in for 2-3      24 hr.  Sold over the 
                       minutes.  Rinse skin or hair    counter in drug stores.
                       after 10 minutes.
________________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  TROPICAL RAT MITES
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  TROPICAL RAT MITES
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

VAPONA EC or aerosol   0.5% Spray:  Mix same as for    Certain Vapona EC form-
                       bedbugs.  Apply lightly to      ulations are sold only 
                       kennels and other infested      to commercial applica-
                       areas.                          tors. Generally the 0.5%
                                                       aerosol is available to
                                                       homeowners.  Several
                                                       applications will be 
                                                       needed each year due to
                                                       continuous reinfestation.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion 57% EC       2% Spray:  Mix 10 tbsp/gal      Repeat treatment in 3 to
                       water.  Treat infested area     4 wk if necessary.
                       lightly.
________________________________________________________________________________
INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
malathion (cont)       Hand Dust: Apply 1-2 lb/1,000
      4-5% dust        sq ft infested area to include
                       quarters, yard, and lawn.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
carbaryl               Hand Dust:  Apply same as 
  SEVIN 5% dust        malathion dust.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bendiocarb             0.25% Spray:  One packet (0.4   Do not treat animal. 
  FICAM W 76%          oz)/gal water makes 0.25% sus-  Keep pet out of quaters
                       pension.  Apply thoroughly to   until spray dries. This
                       animal quarters.                product for commercial  
                                                       use only.  Do not treat
                                                       pet bedding.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
chlorpyrifos (6.7%)    0.5% Spray:  Mix 10.5 fl oz/    Precautions same as 
  STARBAR yard and     gal water.                      above.  This is a home-
  kennel spray                                         owner product and should
                                                       be available.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

linalool 37%           Spray:  Mix 2 fl oz/gal water.  Do not treat pets.
  DEMIZE EC            1 gal spray treats 1,000 sq     Replace bedding after 
(citrus extract        ft.  Apply to pet quarters.     treatment. Avoid contact
toxin)                                                 with skin, eyes, wear  
                                                       protective clothing. For
                                                       commercial applicators 
                                                       only.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FICAM PLUS             0.25% Spray:  Follow label      Do not treat pet bed- 
(29.45% WP) with       for mixing.                     ding.
pyrethrins
  1% dust              Hand Treat:  Direct dust to     Do not treat animal.  
                       pet beds, resting quarters,     Replace animal bedding
                       cracks, crevices.               following treatment.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
diazinon 2-4 lb        0.5% Spray:  Mix 2 1/2 tbsp     Products sold for PCO 
ai/gal EC or oil       4E or 5 tbsp 2E/gal water.      and homeowner use.  Do 
concentrate                                            not treat animal.  Keep
                                                       pets out until spray 
                                                       dries.  Treat sleeping
                                                       quarters thoroughly.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R dioxathion DELTIC    0.25% Residual Spray:  Mix      Treat doghouses, runs,
(DELNAV) 20.7% EC      1 fl oz/gal water.              loafing areas, and in-
                                                       fested outdoor areas
                                                       generally. Let spray dry
                                                       before allowing dogs to
                                                       enter area.  For use by
                                                       certified applicators 
                                                       only.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  HUMAN ITCH MITES (Scabies, Mange)
-DOC-

________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  HUMAN ITCH MITES (Scabies, Mange)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

benzyl benzoate,       Ointment or Salve:  For dogs,   Disinfect animal quar-
lindane (various       consult veterinarian in severe  ters with strong cleans-
formulations)          cases.  Humans should consult   ing solution.  Treat
                       medical doctor for treatment.   area with one of insect-
                                                       icides recommended for
                                                       fleas to ensure destruc-
                                                       tion of the mites.
________________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  STINGING OR VENOMOUS PESTS - SCORPIONS, SPIDERS (INDOORS)
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  STINGING OR VENOMOUS PESTS - SCORPIONS, SPIDERS (INDOORS)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

propoxur BAYGON        Residual Spray:  Apply small    Pressurized sprays may
0.5% pressurized       amount as directed.             contain active ingred-
  spray                                                ient other than Baygon.
13.5% EC               Spray surfaces frequented by    This product is avail-
70% WP                 spiders and scorpions.          able to homeowners under
                                                       various trade names.  EC
                                                       and WP formulations 
                                                       available only to PCOs 
                                                       or commercial applica-
                                                       tors.  Use limited in
                                                       food areas to crack and
                                                       crevice treatment.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
diazinon               Residual Spray:  Apply 0.5%     Same as for Baygon. Only
0.5% pressurized or    spray (either pressurized,      the 0.5% pressurized 
ready-to-use spray,    water, or oil) same as          spray is available to
47.5% EC, 48.7% oil    Baygon.                         homeowners for indoor 
                                                       use.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   Residual Spray:  Apply 0.5%     Same as for Baygon. Only
0.5% pressurized       spray (oil or water based)      the 0.5% pressurized 
spray 22.4% EC,        as specified for Baygon.        spray is available to
41.2% EC, 16.4% EC                                     homeowners for indoor
(plus 7.6% DDVP)                                       use.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bendiocarb             Residual Spray: 0.25%.  Apply   Same as for Baygon. Pro-
  FICAM W (76%)        same as Baygon.                 duct available only to
                                                       commercial applicators.
FICAM PLUS (29.45%     Residual Spray: 0.25%.  Apply   Ficam Plus offers quick
WP) plus pyrethrins    same as Baygon.                 knockdown and flushing
(3.06%)                                                action.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

FICAM D 1% dust        Hand Dust: Treat areas where    In food plant areas, 
                       pests have been noted.          spot treatments not to
                                                       exceed 2 sq ft.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
VAPONA-DDVP (dichlor-  Contact Spray:  Mix 5 tbsp      Many pressurized sprays
vos) 0.5% pressurized  EC/gal water oil carrier for    contain DDVP as a flush-
spray 23.0% EC         0.5% spray.  Apply oil, water,  ing and contact agent.
                       or pressurized spray as speci-  Vapona will likely be 
                       fied for Baygon.                more effective when used
                                                       in combination with one
                                                       of the residual sprays.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

Total-release aero-    Space Treatments: 0.5 to 7%     The total-release aero-
sols (various pro-     aerosols.                       sol should be employed 
ducts and combinations                                 with a good residual
with VAPONA, RONNEL,                                   treatment.  The aerosol
BAYGON, and DURSBAN)                                   helps to flush the pest
                                                       species from hiding 
                                                       places and results in
                                                       more effective control.
_______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  WASPS AND HORNETS (In Houses or on Ground)
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  WASPS AND HORNETS (In Houses or on Ground)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
VAPONA (DDVP)          Contact Spray:  Apply 0.5%      Repeat applications as
0.5% pressurized       pressurized oil or water        needed. Only pressurized
spray                  sprays directly to nests.       spray (0.5%) is avail-
23.0% EC                                               able for homeowner use.
23.2% OS                                               A special 7.0% pressur-
                                                       ized spray is available
                                                       for PCOs and other com-
                                                       mercial applicators.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pyrethrins plus        Contact Spray:  Apply directly  Certain of these 
synergists, refriger-  to nests or insects.            products have special 
ant gases, other                                       long-range nozzles for
active ingredient                                      protection of the appli-
combinations*                                          cator.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

*Various combinations of pyrethrins, etc., are used with refrigerant gases.  
The fast evaporation of the gases temporarily stuns the insects, preventing 
their attach.  Wasp-Freeze  is the trade name of one of these products.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
propoxur BAYGON        Residual Spray: Apply 1.1%      Apply after dark when 
1.5 (13.9%) EC         water-base spray or 0.5%        wasps or hornets have
or pressurized         pressurized spray to nests.     returned to nests. Pres-
spray (aerosol)                                        surized sprays available
                                                       for homeowners.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
resmethrin             Contact/Residual Spray: Apply   Apply same as for 
0.25% aerosol          0.25% aerosol or 0.25% diluted  Baygon.
w/other ingredients    oil spray directly to nests.
or 1.5-2.75% oil
solutions
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

FICAM PLUS (29.45%     Contact/Residual Spray: 0.25%.  Ficam Plus offers quick
WP) plus pyrethrins    See label for mixing instruc-   knockdown plus residual
(3.06%)                tions.                          action.
________________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  PAPER WASPS
-DOC-

________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  PAPER WASPS
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTA-PAINT,         Residual Paint:  Apply to       This paint will aid in
various other trade-   boxing and trim on residences   repelling paper wasps 
names, (0.86% chlor-   or other structures.            from nest building on
pyrifos)                                               painted wood. Bird nest-
                                                       ing on columns under
                                                       protective cover is also
                                                       reduced.  Paint should 
                                                       also aid in repelling
                                                       carpenter bee attack on
                                                       boxing.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos 61.5%     Paint Additive:  Mix 1.87       The additive should work
conc.                  fl oz of additive/gal latex     just as well as the com-
CPF Insecticide for    paint.                          mercially prepared 
latex paint                                            paint.  Available in 
                                                       paint stores.
________________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  YELLOW JACKETS  (Ground Nests)
-DOC-

________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  YELLOW JACKETS  (Ground Nests)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

FICAM D 1% dust        Hand Treat:  Dust entrance to   Treat after dark when
                       nest and surrounding area.      yellow jackets have
                                                       returned to nest.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
carbaryl SEVIN 5%      Hand Treat:  Same as for Ficam  Same as for Ficam.
dust
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  MISCELLANEOUS INSECT PESTS FOUND IN HOUSES* - Silverfish, book lice 
-DOC-

________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  MISCELLANEOUS INSECT PESTS FOUND IN HOUSES* - Silverfish, book lice 
       (Psocids)
________________________________________________________________________________

See cockroach control chemicals for these pests inside houses.

*Outside treatment around house borders is key to stopping the accidental entry
of miscellaneous outdoor insects into homes.
________________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN WEED CONTROL                               
-DOC-
                               CORN WEED CONTROL
                    E. C. Murdock, Extension Weed Scientist
                     and B. J. Gossett, Research Agronomist

READ THE HERBICIDE LABEL BEFORE USE  

Rates given for preplant incorporated and preemergence treatments are for 
COARSE- to MEDIUM-TEXTURED SOILS.
CORN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
SUTAN+ 6.7E,           6.7 lb/gal         4.75 to 7.33 pt          4.0 to 6.0 
GENATE PLUS
   or                                          or                      or
ERADICANE 6.7E         6.7 lb/gal         3.75 to 7.33 pt          3.0 to 6.0 
   or                                          or                      or
ERADICANE EXTRA        6.0 lb/gal         2.0 to 4.0 qt            3.0 to 6.0

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, small seeded broadleaf weeds, yellow nutsedge, purple 
nutsedge;  partial  control of johnsongrass and bermudagrass.  Incorporate to a 
depth of 2 to 3 inches immediately after application.  Use a minimum of 4.0  lb 
ai/ac  for control of nutsedge,  Texas panicum,  or broadleaf signalgrass.  Use 
the high rate for suppression of johnsongrass or bermudagrass.  These  products 
provide poor control of large-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Therefore, tank mixtures 
with  atrazine  or  BLADEX are recommended for improved broadleaf weed control.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
DUAL 8E                8.0 lb/gal         1.5 to 2.5 pt            
  or                                           or                      l.5 to 2.5
DUAL 25G               25% granule        6.0 to l0.0 lb
                                                                 
REMARKS:   Annual  grasses,  small-seeded  broadleaf  weeds,  yellow  nutsedge.
Incorporate to a depth of 2 inches within l4 days before planting.  DUAL 8E may 
be  tank-mixed with atrazine or BLADEX for improved control of broadleaf weeds.
If treated crop is lost, corn, cotton,  soybeans,  peanuts,  or grain or forage 
sorghum treated with Concep may be replanted immediately.  Barley,  oats,  rye, 
or wheat may be planted 4.5 months after application.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
AATREX 80W or       80% wettable powder    2.5 to 3.0 lb
 ATRAZINE 80W
     or                                        or
AATREX 4L, ATRAZINE 4L,   4.0 lb/gal       4.0 to 4.75 pt        2.0 to 2.4 lb
 or GRIFFEX 4L
     or                                        or
AATREX NINE-0       90% dispersible        2.2 to 2.6 lb
                     granule

REMARKS: Broadleaf weeds;  poor control of most grasses.  Atrazine may be tank-
mixed with DUAL,  SUTAN+,  GENATE PLUS, ERADICANE, ERADICANE EXTRA, PRINCEP, or 
SIM-TROL for improved control  of  grasses.  Available  package  mixtures  that 
include  atrazine are SUTAZINE+ (butylate + atrazine),  ATRABUTE + AND ATRABUTE 
+II (butylate + atrazine),  and BICEP and BICEP 6L  (metolachlor  +  atrazine).
Lower  rates of atrazine are generally recommended in these mixtures.  Nitrogen 
solution or complete liquid fertilizer may replace all or part of the water  as 
CORN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
(Continued)

a  carrier  for application - check compatibility before use.  Do not rotate to 
any crop except corn or grain sorghum until the following year.  Do  not  plant 
tobacco,  vegetables,  or  small-seeded  legumes and grasses the year following 
application.  Apply and incorporate into the top 2 to 3 inches of soil within 2 
weeks before planting--avoid deep incorporation.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
CORN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
R BLADEX 80W          80% wettable powder  l.5 to 2.0 lb
    or                                         or
  BLADEX 4L           4.0 lb/gal           l.2 to l.6 qt         l.2 to l.6
    or                                         or
  BLADEX 90 DF     90% dispersible granule l.3 to l.8 lb

REMARKS:  Broadleaf weeds,  some control of annual grasses.  To  improve  grass 
control,  tank mix BLADEX with SUTAN+, GENATE PLUS, ERADICANE, ERADICANE EXTRA, 
or DUAL.  BLADEX may also be tank mixed with atrazine.  Lower rates  of  BLADEX 
are  generally recommended in these mixtures.  Do not incorporate BLADEX deeper 
than 2 inches.  Fluid fertilizers may replace all  or  part  of  the  water  as 
carrier--check compatibility before use.  Any rotational crop may be planted in 
the fall or spring following use of BLADEX alone.  Do not use on sands or loamy 
sands with less than l% organic matter.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
CORN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
SUTAZINE + 6-ME or     6.0 lb/gal         5.25 to 7.0 pt        4.0 to 5.25
ATRABUTE+           (4.8 lb butylate +                   (3.2 to 4.2 butylate +
                     l.2 lb atrazine)                     0.8 to l.l atrazine)

REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  broadleaf weeds,  purple nutsedge,  yellow nutsedge; 
partial  control  of  johnsongrass  and  bermudagrass.   SUTAZINE  +  6-ME  and 
ATRABUTE+ are package mixtures of  butylate  and  atrazine.  Incorporate  to  a 
depth  of  2  to  3  inches immediately after application.  Cross disc for best 
results.  Apply within 2 weeks  of  planting.  Use  the  high  rate  for  heavy 
infestations  of fall panicum or Texas panicum and for rhizome johnsongrass and 
bermudagrass.  Do not plant any crop except  corn  until  the  following  year.
Corn or soybeans may be planted the following year.  SUTAZINE+ or ATRABUTE+ may 
be combined with fluid fertilizer--check compatibility before use.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
CORN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
ATRABUTE+ II or        6.0 lb/gal          6.0 to 7.8 pt/ac      4.5 to 5.9 lb
RHINO              (4.3 lb butylate +                      (3.2 to 4.2 butylate
                    l.7 lb atrazine)                       l.3 to l.7 atrazine)

REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  broadleaf weeds,  purple nutsedge,  yellow nutsedge; 
partial control of johnsongrass and bermudagrass.  ATRABUTE+ II  is  a  package 
mixture  of  butylate  +  atrazine.  Incorporate  to  a  depth of 2 to 3 inches 
immediately after application.  Cross disc for best  results.  Apply  within  2 
weeks   of   planting.   Use   the  high  rate  for  control  of  johnsongrass, 
bermudagrass,  nutsedge,  and Texas panicum.  Do not plant any crop except corn 
until  the following year.  Corn or soybeans may be planted the following year.
ATRABUTE+ II may be combined with fluid fertilizers--check compatibility before 
use.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
CORN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                  RECOMMENDED RATE
                                         FORMULATED
HERBICIDE            FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC           AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
BICEP                4.5 lb/gal          2.0 to 2.4 qt        
                  (2.5 metolachlor +                          2.25 to 2.7
                   2.0 atrazine)                              (l.25 to l.5
  or                                         or                metolachlor +
                                                               l.0 to l.2
BICEP 6L             6.0 lb/gal          l.5 to l.8 qt         atrazine
                  (3.3 metolachlor +
                   2.7 atrazine)

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, broadleaf weeds, yellow nutsedge.  BICEP and BICEP 6L 
are  package  mixtures  of metolachlor (DUAL) + atrazine.  Incorporate into the 
top 2 inches of soil within 2 weeks before planting.  Corn, sorghum,  soybeans, 
cotton, or peanuts may be planted the spring following treatment.  Small grains 
may  be planted l5 months after application.  All other crops may be planted l8 
months after application.  
_______________________________________________________________________________



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  ANTS, EARWIGS, MILLIPEDES
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  ANTS, EARWIGS, MILLIPEDES
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl               Residual Treatment:  Apply 2-4  For outdoor use only.
  50 WP, 5-10% dust    tbsp 50 wp in 3-4 gal water/
                       100 sq ft.  Apply 1-2 lb dust/
                       1,000 sq ft.  Treat 20 to 30-ft 
                       border around house.

SEVIN SL (4 lb/gal)    Residual Treatment:  Mix 7 oz/  SEVIN SL for use by 
                       gal water.  Apply as coarse     commercial applicators.
                       spray to house border, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  ANTS, EARWIGS, MILLIPEDES, CRICKETS, SOWBUGS, PILLBUGS, AND CLOVERMITES
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  ANTS, EARWIGS, MILLIPEDES, CRICKETS, SOWBUGS, PILLBUGS, AND CLOVERMITES
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   Residual Treatment:  Mix        Clover mite invasion of
2 EC (22.4%) or 4 EC   3 tbsp 2 EC or 1 1/2 tbsp       homes can often be pre-
(41.2%) 0.5% G         4 EC/gal water.  Wet infested   vented by washing out- 
                       area thoroughly.  Treat 20 to   side walls with water
                       30-ft border around house.      daily during their 
                       Apply 5 lb 0.5% G/1,000 sq ft   migration.
                       and water in.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
propoxur BAYGON 70%    Same as Dursban.  Read label    Avoid treating plants 
WP or 13.9% EC         for mixing instructions.        with Dursban or Baygon
                                                       unless label states it 
                                                       is safe to do so.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
bendiocarb FICAM W     Same as for Dursban.            Ficam, Baygon and 
76%                                                    Dursban generally are 
                                                       sold for use by commer-
                                                       cial applicators.  Some
                                                       homeowner products with
                                                       Dursban and Baygon are
                                                       available.
          1% dust      Hand Treat:  Apply 2/3 oz/sq    Ficam dust available to
                       yd.  Treat 20-30 ft border      commercial applicators
                       around house.                   only.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon SPECTRACIDE   Residual Spray:  Mix 2 tbsp/    This is a good, all-
25% EC                 3 gal water.  Treat border      around, homeowner out-
                       around house same as Sevin/     side pest control pro-
                       Dursban.                        duct and Spectracide 
                                                       is generally avialable.
________________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  SLUGS AND SNAILS
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  SLUGS AND SNAILS
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

stale beer             Trap:  Pour stale beer in       The use of stale beer is
                       shallow pan and place within    a good supplementary 
                       easy access of slugs.  The      measure to go with an
                       slugs/snails are attracted      effective bait, such as
                       to the beer and drown.          Mesurol.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
methiocarb             Apply Mesurol at rate of
  MESUROL 2% bait      1 lb/1,000 sq ft following
                       a light wetting of the area
                       to be treated.
________________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  FABRIC-DAMAGING INSECTS - CLOTHS MOTHS (casemaking and webbing), CARPET
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  FABRIC-DAMAGING INSECTS - CLOTHS MOTHS (casemaking and webbing), CARPET
       BEETLES (Dermestids)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon 4 EC or       0.5% Residual Spray:  Mix       Oil sprays lightly 
4 OS (oil solution)    2 1/2 tbsp (EC)/gal water       applied usually are best
                       or 2 tbsp (OS)/gal oil.         for treating fabrics.
                       Spot treat infested carpets,
                       furniture, storage closets,
                       etc.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2% diazinon dust       Apply dust lightly to infested
                       areas or where insects are
                       suspected.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

VAPONA 20% resin       Space Treatment:  The VAPONA    Do not use in rooms 
strip                  resin strip is an effective     ossupied by infants or
                       fumigant against fabric pests   bedridden elderly.  Do 
                       when employed in tight rooms,   not use in food-handling
                       closets or chests.              or serving areas of the
                                                       house.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pyrethrin "total       Space Treatment:  Set off       Such treatment will kill
release" aerosols or   required number of aerosols     adult insects but will 
pressurized spray      based on cubic volume of        not affect protected 
bombs                  house or infested area.  These  egg, larvae, or pupal
                       aerosols are most effective     stages.  Retreatment at
                       when used along with residual   2-3 wk may be required.
                       sprays.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

naphthalene or         Fumigant Gas:  Naphthalene 
paradichlorobenzene    flakes or PDB crystals are
crystals (moth balls)  effective local fumigants 
                       when used in tight enclosures
                       for killing fabric pests.
________________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS                                
-DOC-
                                VERTEBRATE PESTS
            D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION       SIGN OR DAMAGE               HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
House mouse-Up to  Feed sacks cut; holes 1 in   Lives in walls, furniture,	
5 in long, nearly  and less; droppings 1/4 in   feed sacks, and other enclos-
hairless tail;     or less; footprints less     ures.  Average range about 15	
about same color   than 1/2 in; nests of much   ft. Can live without water to
top and bottom.    fine material.               drink for long period of time.
PESTICIDES/REMARKS: Tracking powders: zinc phosphide, chlorophacinone.Sprinkle 
powder where rodents travel or in burrows.  Rodents will  get  the  powder  on 
their  feet  and  fur and ingest it while cleaning themselves.  For indoor use 
only. Baits: zinc phosphide, cholecalciferol, bromethalin. Several trade names 
and bait conformations.  Anticoagulant baits: warfarin, diphacinone, bromadio-
lone, brodifacoum, chlorophacinone, coumafuryl, pindone.  Many trade names and 
bait conformations. Most are not restricted-use pesticides and can be used in-
doors or outdoors.  Bait should be placed in tamperproof boxes or where people 
and non-target animals cannot get to it.  Some require mixing  with  grain  or 
other bait, but most are ready to use. Follow label directions carefully.  See 
"Trapping".	 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                                
-DOC-
                                VERTEBRATE PESTS	
            D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
_______________________________________________________________________________
PEST ANIMAL AND	
& DESCRIPTION               SIGN OR DAMAGE           HABITS	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Meadow mouse (vole)         Small, shallow burrows   Damage occurs to trees and	
3 1/2 in to 5 in body and   and trails in grass.     shrubs from slightly below 
head; tail longer than      Trees or shrubs gnawed   ground level up.  Lives in
length of hind leg and      from ground level up     areas of dense cover.     
bicolored.  Rather long     under mulch or snow
grizzled fur.               cover.
                                   
PESTICIDES/REMARKS:  Zinc phosphide (R RIDALL-ZINC,  RZP rodent bait  AG).  For 
control in orchards,  vineyards, nurseries and non-bearing fruit trees.  Do not 
broadcast on bare ground or growing crops.  Apply by hand or broadcast at  4-10 
lbs/ac.  Anticoagulant chlorophacinone (ROZOL) comes  either  in  ground  spray 
concentrate  or  ready-to-use bait,  for orchards only.  Treat after harvest or 
while trees are dormant.  Repeat treatment may  be  necessary  if  rain  occurs 
within 12 hours after application.	
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------	
R - Some or all uses of this pesticide are restricted.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  POWDER POST BEETLES (Lyctids, Anobiids) (Bostrychids) (Cerambycids--Old
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  POWDER POST BEETLES (Lyctids, Anobiids) (Bostrychids) (Cerambycids--Old
       House Borers)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R lindane 20% EC or    Oil Solution or Water           The oil solution will 
  OS                   Emulsion:  Apply 0.5% spray or  likely give more resid-
                       oil solution lighly to entire   ual effect, but odor can
                       infested area.                  be a problem.  Many 
                                                       available 20% EC lindane
                                                       products do not refer to
                                                       powder post beetles.  
                                                       Use the rate listed for 
                                                       pine bark beetles. 
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  chlorpyrifos         Water Spray (emulsion):         Surface sprays only kill
  41.5% EC             0.5-1%.  Mix 1 1/3 fl oz        emerging adults and pre-
    DURSBAN LO (low    0.5%) or 2 2/3 fl oz (1%)/      vent re-infestation 
    odor)              gal water.  Apply locally       during egg laying.
                       to infested structures to 
                       point of runoff.

 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PEST: SAME AS ABOVE - PROTECTION OF GREEN LUMBER FROM INSECT ATTACK 
                      (OTHER THAN TERMITES) AND WOOD DECAY.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
TIM-BOR 98% disodium   Dip and Diffusion Storage:      This process will not 
octaborate tetra-      Fresh sawn lumber is dipped     protect lumber in con-
hydrate                in hot boron solution, close    tact with the soil or
                       stacked and covered to prevent  wood exposed to leaching
                       drying.  3" thick lumber re-    by weather.  The process
                       quires 6-10 wks diffusion       should be a real aid in 
                       period before allowed to dry.   preventing borers in air
                                                       dried lumber and should
                                                       help protect green 
                                                       timber used in log cabin
                                                       kits.  Boron sol. is
                                                       herbicidal.  Do not 
                                                       dispose or dump close to
                                                       valuable vegetation.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos 44.9% EC  Dip or Brush on Treatment:      Product may also be used
  DURSBAN WT           Mix 0.5 to 1% as per lable      in pressure treat pro-
                       instructions.                   cess.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
fumigants (See Dry     Follow manufacturers            Fumigation for wood 
Wood Termites)         instructions.                   borer or powder post 
                                                       beetles is seldom neces-
                                                       sary.  Alternatives in-
                                                       clude replacement of 
                                                       infested timbers and 
                                                       residual treatment where
                                                       infestations are limit-
                                                       ed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEST:  CARPENTER ANTS, CARPENTER BEES (IN WOOD STRUCTURES)
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  CARPENTER ANTS, CARPENTER BEES (IN WOOD STRUCTURES)
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

lindane 20% EC         Oil Solution or Water 
                       Emulsion:  Apply 0.5% treat-
                       ment to nest area (carpenter                         
                       ants).  Paint or spray outside
                       surfaces being attacked by car-
                       pender bees OR inject into 
                       galleries and plug opening with
                       putty.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos 41.5% EC  0.5% Spray:  Mix 1 1/3 ft oz/gal
  DURSBAN LO           water and apply to nest area 
                       (wall void or outdoor nests). 
                       For carpenter bees paint or brush
                       mixture on area or inject into
                       galleries and plug opening with
                       putty.
________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

PEST:  CARPENTER BEES
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECTICIDE            METHOD/APPLICATION RATE         RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTA-PAINT, other   Residual Paint:  Use of         CPF paint additive 
trade names            treated paint may repel bees    should be available at
(0.86% chlorpyrifos)   attempting to nest.             paint stores.  

CPF Paint additive                                     It is manuf. by:
(61.5% chlorpyrifos)                                   ENVIRO-CHEM INC.
                                                       P. O. Box 1086
                                                       Walla Walla, WA 99362
________________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
_______________________________________________________________________________
PEST AND
LOCATION            PESTICIDE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Blackbirds:         R  AVITROL               Prebait with untreated grain of 
Red-winged black-      mixed grains, wheat   the same composition as the 
birds*, grackles,      corn chops, double-   Avitrol carrier.  After accep-
brown-headed           strength corn chops   tance is good, switch to Avitrol- 
cowbirds                                     treated grain.  Dilute treated 
                                             grain with at least 9 parts un-   
Feeding, nesting                             treated grain. The distribution  
and roosting sites                           of Avitrol should be limited to 
                                             scattered spot placements in     
                                             areas that target birds are     
                                             feeding.                           
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this pesticide are restricted. 
*No one method alone will suffice.  Cultural measures, such as timing corn 
 planting so that harvest occurs when natural foods are available, reduce 
 severity of attack.                       
Blackbirds (cont'd)
_______________________________________________________________________________
LOCATION               PESTICIDE             METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Feeding, nesting 
and roosting sites 
(cont'd) 
 
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  Never use  Avitrol  unless  state  wildlife  agencies 
approve use since blackbirds are protected migratory animals.  Success depends 
on  obtaining  a  good number of demonstrating or distressed birds and not how 
many are killed.  
 
Roosting sites         COMPOUND PA-14        See restrictions and remarks. 
                       avian stressing         
                       agent (oxyethlene)                     
                                        
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  For use only by government agencies  or  those  under 
supervision  of government agencies and trained in bird control.  For instruc-
tions and  information,  write  to  Section  of  Animal  Depredations  Control 
Studies, Patuxent Wildlife Research Center, Laurel, MD 20810.  
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Blackbirds (cont'd) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
LOCATION               PESTICIDE                 METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
Cornfields             BORDERLAND BLACK          Mix 8 oz Borderland Black per 
(Seed corn)            seed protector            bushel of seed corn. Plant as 
                                                 normal.
 
RESTRICTIONS  & REMARKS:  Non-restricted.  Prevents blackbirds from feeding on 
corn seed or seedlings.  Birds may become  paralyzed.  However,  the  majority 
recover  within  a short period of time.  Under cool,  wet growing conditions, 
this product may be phytotoxic to corn.  
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------  
 
 
 
 
 
 
	
	
Blackbirds (cont'd)                            
______________________________________________________________________________
 
LOCATION               PESTICIDE                 METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
Roosting or nesting    Bird repellents:          Clean surface to be treated.   sites, structures,     ROOST NO MORE             Spray, brush or use caulking   
trees, shrubs,         liquid or paste           gun to apply as stated on 
vines                                            label.  Do not dilute.
                       EATON'S 4 THE BIRDS       
                       liquid or paste           
                                                 
                       BIRD TANGLEFOOT            
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  These products are not restricted  and  can  be  used 
without  certification.  Do  not  spray  on  vegetation  in bloom or in fruit.  
Liquids not recommended for use on exterior surfaces of buildings since  stain 
or residue will result.  
______________________________________________________________________________ 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS                                  
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS   
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
_______________________________________________________________________________
PEST AND
LOCATION             PESTICIDE                 METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Starling             R  AVITROL                Prebait by mixing 4 parts un-
                        Double strength corn   treated corn with 1 part peanut 
Feed lots and           chops admixed with     butter.  Bait must be applied in 
poultry houses          with peanut butter     protected feeders, out of reach 
                                               of cattle.  After acceptance is 
                                               good, replace untreated bait 
                                               with 2 parts peanut butter, 1 
                                               part treated grain and 9 parts 
                                               untreated grain.
 
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  Good results with  AVITROL  or  other  bird  toxicant 
require understanding feeding habits of the target species,  flock habits, and 
feed available. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted. 
 
Starling (cont'd) 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
          
LOCATION             PESTICIDE                 METHOD AND RATE 
_______________________________________________________________________________
In and around        R  RID-A-BIRD             Fill RID-A-BIRD perch with 
buildings and           control liquid         RID-A-BIRD liquid and place 
bridges                 (Endrin)               where target birds are found.
 
                     R  RID-A-BIRD 1100        
                        (Fenthion)
 
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  Female workers should pay special attention to safety 
rules  and hazards on RID-A-BIRD control liquid label.  Do not use these prod-
ucts around food storage,  processing or handling facilities or in  or  around 
the  home.  Restricted to persons trained in bird control work.  Local,  state 
and federal permits must be obtained as for RID-A-BIRD control liquid.  Do not 
use around food storage, processing or handling facilities or in or around the 
home.                                                                           
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted. 
Starling (cont'd) 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
          
LOCATION                       PESTICIDE               METHOD AND RATE 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
Roosting or nesting sites,     Bird repellents:        Clean surface to be 
structures, trees, shrubs,     ROOST NO MORE           treated.  Spray, brush 
vines                          liquid or paste         or use caulking gun to 
                                                       apply as stated on 
                               EATON'S 4 THE BIRDS     label.  Do not dilute.
                               liquid or paste        
 
                               BIRD TANGLEFOOT        
 
RESTRICTIONS  &  REMARKS:  These  products  are not restricted and can be used 
without certification.  Do not spray on  vegetation  in  bloom  or  in  fruit.  
Liquids  not recommended for use on exterior surfaces of buildings since stain 
or residue will result. 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
 
	
Starling (cont'd)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
          
LOCATION            PESTICIDE             METHOD AND RATE 
_______________________________________________________________________________
Feeding, nesting,   R  AVITROL            Prebait with untreated grain of the 
and roosting           mixed grains,      same composition as the Avitrol 
sites                  wheat, corn        carrier.  After acceptance is good, 
                       chops, double-     switch to Avitrol-treated grain.     
                       strength corn      Dilute treated grain with at least 
                       chops              9 parts untreated grain. The distri-
                                          bution of Avitrol should be limited 
                                          to scattered spot placements in 
                                          areas that target birds are feeding. 
 
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  Never use  Avitrol  unless  state  wildlife  agencies 
approve use since blackbirds are protected migratory animals.  Success depends 
on  obtaining  a  good number of demonstrating or distressed birds and not how 
many are killed. 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted. 	
Starling (cont'd) 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
          
LOCATION            PESTICIDE             METHOD AND RATE 
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Roosting sites        Compound PA-14      See restrictions and remarks. 
                      avian stressing
                      agent (oxyethlene) 
 
RESTRICTIONS  &  REMARKS:  For  use only by government agencies or those under 
supervision of government agencies and trained in bird control.  For  instruc-
tions  and  information,  write  to  Section  of  Animal  Depredations Control 
Studies, Patuxent Wildlife Research Center, Laurel, MD 20810 
 
Cornfields            BORDERLAND BLACK    Mix 8 oz Borderland Black per bushel
(seed corn)           seed protector      of seed corn.  Plant as normal.
 
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  Non-restricted.  Prevents blackbirds from feeding  on 
corn  seed  or seedlings.  Birds may become paralyzed.  However,  the majority 
recover within a short period of time.  Under cool,  wet  growing  conditions, 
this product may be phytotoxic to corn.  
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED HERBICIDE MIXTURES
-DOC-
CORN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED HERBICIDE MIXTURES
_______________________________________________________________________________
Herbicide mixtures:  Herbicide tank mixtures or package mixtures are often 
needed to broaden the spectrum of weeds controlled.  They may also improve crop 
tolerance or reduce potential rotation problems by allowing use of lower rates 
while maintaining satisfactory weed control.  Cultivation and/or postemergence 
treatments may be necessary since rates of atrazine or BLADEX in these mixtures 
may be too low to provide consistent control.  Recommended preplant 
incorporated herbicide mixtures and rates of active ingredient are listed 
below.

       l.  Tank Mixtures

       2.  Package Mixtures
_______________________________________________________________________________
CORN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED TANK MIXTURES
_______________________________________________________________________________
SUTAN+ 6.7E or GENATE PLUS + AATREX 80W or ATRAZINE 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  3.75 to 7.33 pt + l.25 to l.9 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  3.0 to 6.0 + l.0 to l.5 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SUTAN+ 6.7E or GENATE PLUS + AATREX 4L or ATRAZINE 4L or GRIFFEX 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  3.75 to 7.33 pt + l.0 to l.5 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  3.0 to 6.0 + l.0 to l.5 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SUTAN+ 6.7E or GENATE PLUS + AATREX NINE-0
    Formulated Product/Ac:  3.75 to 7.33 pt + l.l to l.7 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  3.0 to 6.0 + l.0 to l.5 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ERADICANE 6.7E + AATREX 80W or ATRAZINE 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  3.75 to 7.33 pt + l.25 to l.9 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  3.0 to 6.0 + l.0 to l.5 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ERADICANE 6.7E + AATREX 4L or ATRAZINE 4L or GRIFFEX 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  3.75 to 7.33 pt + l.0 to l.5 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  3.0 to 6.0 + l.0 to l.5 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ERADICANE EXTRA + AATREX 80W or ATRAZINE 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  2.0 to 4.0 qt + l.25 to l.9 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  3.0 to 6.0 + l.0 to l.5 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ERADICANE EXTRA + AATREX 4L or ATRAZINE 4L or GRIFFEX 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  2.0 to 4.0 qt + l.0 to l.5 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  3.0 to 6.0 + l.0 to l.5 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ERADICANE EXTRA + AATREX NINE-0
    Formulated Product/Ac:  2.0 to 4.0 qt + l.l to l.7 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  3.0 to 6.0 + l.0 to l.5 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E + AATREX 80W or ATRAZINE 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.25 to 2.0 pt + l.25 to 2.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.25 to 2.0 + l.0 to 2.0 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E + AATREX 4L or ATRAZINE 4L or GRIFFEX 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.25 to 2.0 pt + l.0 to 2.0 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.25 to 2.0 + l.0 to 2.0 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E + AATREX NINE-0
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.25 to 2.0 pt + l.l to 2.2 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.25 to 2.0 + l.0 to 2.0 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SUTAN+ 6.7E or GENATE PLUS + BLADEX 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  3.75 to 7.33 pt + l.0 to l.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  3.0 to 6.0 + 0.8 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SUTAN+ 6.7E or GENATE PLUS + BLADEX 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  3.75 to 7.33 pt + 0.8 to l.2 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  3.0 to 6.0 + 0.8 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SUTAN+ 6.7E or GENATE PLUS + BLADEX 90DF
    Formulated Product/Ac:  3.75 to 7.33 pt + 0.9 to l.3 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  3.0 to 6.0 + 0.8 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED PACKAGE MIXTURES
_______________________________________________________________________________
SUTAZINE + or ATRABUTE+
    Formulated Product/Ac:  5.25 to 7.0 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  4.0 to 5.25 lb

SUTAZINE+ and ATRABUTE+ are package mixtures of butylate + atrazine.  See 
recommendation under CORN-PREPLANT INCORPORATED.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ATRABUTE+ II, RHINO
    Formulated Product/Ac:  6.0 to 7.8 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  4.5 to 5.9 lb

ATRABUTE+ II and RHINO  are  package  mixtures  of  butylate  +  atrazine.  See 
recommendation under CORN-PREPLANT INCORPORATED.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BICEP
    Formulated Product/Ac:  2.0 to 2.4 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  2.25 to 2.7 lb

BICEP is a package mixture of metolachlor (DUAL) + atrazine.  See 
recommendation under CORN-PREPLANT INCORPORATED.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BICEP 6L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to l.8 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  2.25 to 2.7 lb

BICEP 6L is a package mixture of metolachlor (DUAL) + atrazine.  See 
recommendations under CORN-PREPLANT INCORPORATED.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
PEST AND
LOCATION              PESTICIDE              METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
House sparrow       R  RID-A-BIRD            Fill RID-A-BIRD perch with RID-A-
                       control liquid        BIRD liquid and place where target 
In and around          (Endrin)              birds are found.
buildings and                              
bridges             R  RID-A-BIRD 1100                  
                       (Fenthion)          
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  Female workers should pay special attention to safety 
rules  and hazards on RID-A-BIRD control liquid label.  Do not use these prod-
ucts around food storage,  processing or handling facilities or in  or  around 
the  home.  Restricted to persons trained in bird control work.  Local,  state 
and federal permits must be obtained as for RID-A-BIRD control liquid.  Do not 
use around food storage, processing or handling facilities or in or around the 
home. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
House sparrow (cont'd) 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
LOCATION              PESTICIDE              METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
Roosting or            Bird repellents:      Clean surface to be treated. 
nesting sites,         ROOST NO MORE         Spray, brush or use caulking gun 
structures,            liquid or paste       to apply as stated on label. Do 
trees, shrubs,                               not dilute. 
vines                  EATON'S 4 THE BIRDS     
                       liquid or paste        
 
                       BIRD TANGLEFOOT        
                                                       
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  These products are not restricted  and  can  be  used 
without  certification.  Do  not  spray  on  vegetation  in bloom or in fruit.  
Liquids not recommended for use on exterior surfaces of buildings since  stain 
or residue will result. 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
 
 
 
 
House sparrow (cont'd) 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
LOCATION              PESTICIDE              METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
Buildings              AVITROL 200 0.5%      Dilute grain bait with 15 to 25 
                        Formulated on        parts untreated grain. Prebaiting
                        various grains       to determine type of grain and 
                                             acceptance is usually necessary. 
                                                                               
RESTRICTIONS  &  REMARKS:  Control of pest birds in buildings usually involves 
killing them.  To allay fears about the treatment, inform city, county, state, 
and federal agencies about  the  problem.  Audubon  groups,  etc.,  should  be 
informed  also.  NOTE:  Where  protection of song birds is extremely critical, 
whole corn formulation of Avitrol is recommended. 
 
                       Plastic bird          Pest birds can be kept out of 
                       netting               buildings by using lightweight 
                                             plastic bird netting to cover all 
                                             entrances. 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
 
House sparrow (cont'd)
______________________________________________________________________________
LOCATION              PESTICIDE         METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
Feeding, nesting    R  AVITROL          Prebait with untreated grain of the  
and roosting           mixed grains,    same composition as the Avitrol sites 
sites                  wheat, corn      carrier. After acceptance is good,   
                       chops            switch to Avitrol-treated grain.      
                                        Dilute treated grain with at least 9 
                                        parts untreated grain.  House sparrows 
                                        may require a 1:5 treated to untreated 
                                        ratio. The distribution of Avitrol 
                                        should be scattered spot placements in 
                                        areas that target birds are feeding. 
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  Never use  AVITROL  unless  state  wildlife  agencies 
approve use since blackbirds are protected migratory animals.  Success depends 
on  obtaining  a  good number of demonstrating or distressed birds and not how 
many  are  killed.  Minimum  use  of  bait  will minimize effect on beneficial 
species.  Follow label instructions.  Contact Avitrol Corporation, Tulsa,  OK, 
for further information. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - some or all uses of this product are restricted. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
               D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
	
______________________________________________________________________________
PEST AND
LOCATION          PESTICIDE           METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Sea gull          R  AVITROL          Prebaiting with bread is essential. 
                     concentrate      Follow label instructions carefully.  
Landfills,                            Dilute treated bread with 10 parts un-
airports,                             treated bread. Distribute in 8 scattered 
structures                            spot placements only where target birds 
                                      are feeding for 5,000 birds or more. For 
                                      smaller flocks, use 1/2 of a treatment.
 
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS: This product must not be applied where nontarget birds 
are feeding.  	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
	
	
Sea gull (cont'd)
_____________________________________________________________________________
LOCATION          PESTICIDE           METHOD AND RATE
______________________________________________________________________________
Roosting or       Bird repellents:      Clean surface to be treated.  Spray,
nesting sites,    ROOST NO MORE         brush or use caulking gun to apply as
structures,       liquid or paste       stated on label.  Do not dilute.
trees, shrubs,                        
vines             EATON'S 4 THE BIRDS                       
                  liquid or paste        
                                                                           BIRD TANGLEFOOT        
                                                       
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  These products are not restricted  and  can  be  used 
without  certification.  Do  not  spray  on  vegetation  in bloom or in fruit.  
Liquids not recommended for use on exterior surfaces of buildings since  stain 
or residue will result. 	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
PEST AND
LOCATION              PESTICIDE             METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pigeon                Trapping              Pigeon traps can be used to remove 
                                            unwanted birds. Place baited 
Outside buildings                           traps on top of buildings and 
                                            other places frequented by 
                                            pigeons. Trap plans can be 
                                            obtained from Extension Wildlife
                                            Specialist. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Pigeon (cont'd) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
PEST AND
LOCATION              PESTICIDE             METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
Buildings             R  AVITROL            Dilute treated grain with 29 parts 
                         whole corn         untreated grain.  Where pigeons 
                                            have other food available, a 
                                            stronger mixture is required.  No 
                                            dilution stronger than 1 part 
                                            treated to 9 parts untreated is 
                                            recommended.  Prebait to determine 
                                            feeding habits.
 
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  Control of pest birds in buildings  usually  involves 
killing them.  To allay fears about the treatment,  inform city, county, state 
and federal agencies about  the  problem.  Audubon  groups,  etc.,  should  be 
informed also.   
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted. 
 
 
	
Pigeon (cont'd) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
LOCATION              PESTICIDE              METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Buildings               AVITROL 200 0.5%     Dilute grain bait with 15 to 25 
                        Formulated on        parts untreated grain.  Prebait- 
                        various grains       ing to determine type of grain 
                                             and acceptance is usually neces- 
                                             sary.  Pigeons may require a 1-10 
                                             mixture if sustained treatment 
                                             for 30 days at higher dilutions 
                                             is not effective. 
 
REMARKS: Control of pest birds in buildings usually involves killing them.  To 
allay fears about the treatment, inform city, county, state, and federal agen-
cies about the problem.  Audubon groups, etc., should be informed also.  NOTE: 
Where protection of song birds is extremely critical,  whole corn  formulation 
of Avitrol is recommended.  
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
Pigeon (cont'd) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
LOCATION              PESTICIDE              METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
In and around         R  RID-A-BIRD          Fill RID-A-BIRD perch with RID-A-
buildings and            control liquid      BIRD liquid and place where target 
bridges                  (Endrin)            birds are found.
 
                      R  RID-A-BIRD 1100 
                         (Fenthion)                                             
 
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  Female workers should pay special attention to safety 
rules  and hazards on RID-A-BIRD control liquid label.  Do not use these prod-
ucts around food storage,  processing or handling facilities or in  or  around 
the  home.  Restricted to persons trained in bird control work.  Local,  state 
and federal permits must be obtained.   
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted. 
 
 
Pigeon (cont'd) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
LOCATION              PESTICIDE            METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________  
Roof tops, bell        ORNITROL            Scatter 7 1/2 lb/100 pigeons daily 
towers, grain          chemosterilant      or 10 days in feeding locations.  
elevators,                                 Apply early spring and early fall 
parks (if                                  (twice a year) for best results.  
supervised)                                Prebaiting may be necessary.
 
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  For use only by government agencies,  bird protection 
and conservation groups, pest control operators, and universities.  
 
Roosting or nesting    Bird repellents:    Clean surface to be treated. Spray,
sites, structures,     ROOST NO MORE       brush, or use caulking gun to apply
trees, shrubs,         liquid or paste     as stated on label. Do not dilute.
                                           
                       EATON'S 4 THE BIRDS     
                       liquid or paste        
                       BIRD TANGLEFOOT        
	
Pigeon (cont'd) 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
 
LOCATION              PESTICIDE            METHOD AND RATE
______________________________________________________________________________ 
 
RESTRICTIONS  &  REMARKS:  These  products  are not restricted and can be used 
without certification.  Do not spray on  vegetation  in  bloom  or  in  fruit.  
Liquids  not recommended for use on exterior surfaces of buildings since stain 
or residue will result.  
 
                        Plastic bird         Pest birds can be kept out of 
                        netting              buildings by using lightweight 
                                             plastic bird netting to cover all 
                                             entrances. 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
	
_______________________________________________________________________________
PEST AND
LOCATION               PESTICIDE               METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Crow                   STANLEY'S CROW          Mix clean dry corn with repel-
                       REPELLENT               lent.  Can be planted immedi-
Corn fields                                    ately or stored.
(seed corn)            CROW-CHEX                
	
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  Both are non-restricted products.  Active ingredients 
are either refined coal tar and creosote oil (Stanley's Crow Repellent) or 
copper oxalate (Crow Chex).
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
	
	
	
	
	
Crow (cont'd)	
______________________________________________________________________________
LOCATION               PESTICIDE                METHOD AND RATE
______________________________________________________________________________
Roosting or            Bird repellents:        Clean surface to be treated.
nesting sites,         ROOST NO MORE           Spray, brush or use caulking
structures,            liquid or paste         gun to apply as stated on  
trees, shrubs,                                 label. Do not dilute. 
vines                  EATON'S 4 THE BIRDS     
                       liquid or paste        
                       BIRD TANGLEFOOT
	
RESTRICTIONS & REMARKS:  These products are not restricted  and  can  be  used 
without  certification.  Do  not  spray  on  vegetation  in bloom or in fruit.  
Liquids not recommended for use on exterior surfaces of buildings since  stain 
or residue will result. 	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS                                
-DOC-
                                VERTEBRATE PESTS
            D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION       SIGN OR DAMAGE               HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
House mouse-Up to  Feed sacks cut; holes 1 in   Lives in walls, furniture,	
5 in long, nearly  and less; droppings 1/4 in   feed sacks, and other enclos-
hairless tail;     or less; footprints less     ures.  Average range about 15	
about same color   than 1/2 in; nests of much   ft. Can live without water to
top and bottom.    fine material.               drink for long period of time.
PESTICIDES/REMARKS: Tracking powders: zinc phosphide, chlorophacinone.Sprinkle 
powder where rodents travel or in burrows.  Rodents will  get  the  powder  on 
their  feet  and  fur and ingest it while cleaning themselves.  For indoor use 
only. Baits: zinc phosphide, cholecalciferol, bromethalin. Several trade names 
and bait conformations.  Anticoagulant baits: warfarin, diphacinone, bromadio-
lone, brodifacoum, chlorophacinone, coumafuryl, pindone.  Many trade names and 
bait conformations. Most are not restricted-use pesticides and can be used in-
doors or outdoors.  Bait should be placed in tamperproof boxes or where people 
and non-target animals cannot get to it.  Some require mixing  with  grain  or 
other bait, but most are ready to use. Follow label directions carefully.  See 
"Trapping".	 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                                
-DOC-
                                VERTEBRATE PESTS	
            D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
_______________________________________________________________________________
PEST ANIMAL AND	
& DESCRIPTION               SIGN OR DAMAGE           HABITS	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Meadow mouse (vole)         Small, shallow burrows   Damage occurs to trees and	
3 1/2 in to 5 in body and   and trails in grass.     shrubs from slightly below 
head; tail longer than      Trees or shrubs gnawed   ground level up.  Lives in
length of hind leg and      from ground level up     areas of dense cover.     
bicolored.  Rather long     under mulch or snow
grizzled fur.               cover.
                                   
PESTICIDES/REMARKS:  Zinc phosphide (R RIDALL-ZINC,  RZP rodent bait  AG).  For 
control in orchards,  vineyards, nurseries and non-bearing fruit trees.  Do not 
broadcast on bare ground or growing crops.  Apply by hand or broadcast at  4-10 
lbs/ac.  Anticoagulant chlorophacinone (ROZOL) comes  either  in  ground  spray 
concentrate  or  ready-to-use bait,  for orchards only.  Treat after harvest or 
while trees are dormant.  Repeat treatment may  be  necessary  if  rain  occurs 
within 12 hours after application.	
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------	
R - Some or all uses of this pesticide are restricted.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
            D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
_______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION           SIGN OR DAMAGE         HABITS	
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
Pine vole               Soft, spongy           Lives underground.  Feeds on	
Body and head about     ground. Extensive      roots and bases of plants below	
3- to 4-1/4 in long;    underground burrows.   ground level.  Damage prevalent 	
tail shorter than       Plants severed or      on bulbs, ornamental shrubs, and	
length of hind legs;    girdled underground    apple trees.  Often follows mole	
dark brown with         or dying without       runs and other burrows.	
reddish tinge.          visible cause.              
PESTICIDES/REMARKS: Zinc phosphide (R  RIDALL-ZINC, R  ZP rodent bait AG). For 
control in orchards, vineyards, nurseries and non-bearing fruit trees.  Do not 
broadcast on bare ground or growing crops.  Apply by hand or broadcast at 4-10 
lbs/ac.  Anticoagulant chlorophacinone (ROZOL) comes either  in  ground  spray 
concentrate  or ready-to-use bait,  for orchards only.  Treat after harvest or 
while trees are dormant.  Repeat treatment may be  necessary  if  rain  occurs 
within 12 hours after application.	 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
 
 
 
 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
	
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION                   SIGN OR DAMAGE          HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________
Field mouse and/or deer mouse   3/4-in footprints and   In dry, sandy sites.
and white-footed mouse - Up     tail drag marks. Seed   Holes in bare, freshly  
to 8 in; tan above, light       dug when no sprout      planted fields and      
below; tail furred and bi-      visible. Sprouts dug    sparse cover.  Often 
colored. Large ears and eyes.   from side, not pulled.  follows other rodent
                                                        burrows.  	
	
PESTICIDE/REMARKS: Two restricted-use pesticides are available through the 
USDA-APHIS, Animal Damage Control, Room 904 Federal Bldg., 1835 Assembly St., 
Columbia, SC 29201 (2-100 Field Mouse Bait and Zinc Phosphide Rodenticide).  
Both are zinc phosphide products.  Mix one teaspoon of Zinc Phosphide Rodenti-
cide with one quart of cubed apples.  Place cubes in active trails under 
grass.  Do not place bait on bare ground. 2-100 Field Mouse Bait is ready to 
use.  Bait can be placed or broadcast over growing crops.	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                                
-DOC-
                                VERTEBRATE PESTS	
            D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION                    SIGN OR DAMAGE          HABITS	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Cotton rat - Up to 13 in long,   Trails in grass, nests   Lives in dense cover 
including 5-in tail; dark        of cut grass above-      and wet sites. Holes 	
brown, grizzled appearance.      ground.  Burrows with    and runways only part
Scaly and nearly hairless        several 1 1/2- to 2-in   of time.
tail.  Hindfoot to 1.3 in.       openings.
	
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  No practical rodenticides available.  See "Trapping".
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL & DESCRIPTION     SIGN OR DAMAGE             HABITS
______________________________________________________________________________
Norway rat - Up to 18 in;     Feed sacks cut; 1 1/2-in   Good climber; lives 
tail length less than head-   gnawed holes; droppings    at ground level in 
and body; dark brown color;   up to 3/4 in; footprints   burrows, litter, walls
hindfoot 1 1/2 in or more.    1 1/2 in; underground      and other protective 
                              burrows nearby.            enclosures.
PESTICIDE/REMARKS: Tracking powders: zinc phosphide, chlorophacinone. Sprinkle 
powder where rodents travel or in burrows.  Rodents will  get  the  powder  on 
their  feet  and  fur and ingest it while cleaning themselves.  For indoor use 
only. Baits: zinc phosphide, cholecalciferol, bromethalin. Several trade names 
and bait conformations. Anti-coagulant baits: warfarin, diphacinone, bromadio-
lone, brodifacoum, chlorophacinone, coumafuryl, pindone.  Many trade names and 
bait  conformations.  Most  are  not restricted-use pesticides and can be used 
indoors or outdoors.  Bait should be placed  in  tamperproof  boxes  or  where 
people and non-target animals cannot get to it. Some require mixing with grain 
or other bait,  but most are ready to use.  Follow label directions carefully.  
See "Trapping". 	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION                   SIGN OR DAMAGE             HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________
Roof rat or black rat - Up to   Feed sacks cut; 1 1/2-in   Coastal areas. 
17 in; tail longer than body;   holes; 1- to 1 1/2 in-     Excellent climber;
dark brown, lighter belly.      tracks.  Smears and        lives aboveground in
Hindfoot 1 1/2 in and less.     swing marks.               walls, litter, etc.
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:   Tracking  powders:   zinc   phosphide,   chlorophacinone.  
Sprinkle  powder  where  rodents  travel  or in burrows.  Rodents will get the 
powder on their feet and fur and ingest  it  while  cleaning  themselves.  For 
indoor use only.Baits:  zinc phosphide, cholecalciferol, bromethalin.  Several 
trade  names  and   bait   conformations.   Anticoagulant   baits:   warfarin, 
diphacinone,  bromadiolone, brodifacoum, chlorophacinone, coumafuryl, pindone.  
Many  trade  names  and  bait  conformations.   Most  are  not  restricted-use 
pesticides  and  can  be  used  indoors or outdoors.  Bait should be placed in 
tamperproof boxes or where people and non-target animals  cannot  get  to  it.  
Some  require  mixing  with  grain  or other bait,  but most are ready to use.  
Follow label directions carefully.  See "Trapping". 	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
   
                           
                                
 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN - PREEMERGENCE             READ THE HERBICIDE LABEL BEFORE USE
-DOC-
CORN - PREEMERGENCE             READ THE HERBICIDE LABEL BEFORE USE

Apply preemergence treatments at planting or as soon after planting as possible 
(before emergence of the crop or weeds).  Rainfall within 7 to  10  days  after 
application  is  necessary for effective weed control.  Rates given are coarse- 
to medium-textured soils.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
LASSO                   4.0 lb/gal         2.0 to 2.5 qt            2.0 to 2.5 
                                                                 
REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Provides poor control 
of Texas panicum.  LASSO may be tank-mixed with atrazine or BLADEX for improved 
control of  broadleaf weeds.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - PREEMERGENCE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
DUAL 8E                8.0 lb/gal         l.5 to 2.5 pt           
  or                                          or                   l.5 to 2.5
DUAL 25G               25% granule        6.0 to l0.0 lb

REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  small-seeded broadleaf weeds, yellow nutsedge;  poor 
control of Texas panicum.  DUAL provides better control of yellow nutsedge when 
applied preplant incorporated.  DUAL 8E may be  tank  mixed  with  atrazine  or 
BLADEX for improved broadleaf weed control.  If crop treated with DUAL is lost, 
corn, cotton, soybeans, peanuts, or grain or forage sorghum treated with Concep 
may  be  replanted.  Barley,  oats,  rye,  or  wheat  may be planted 4.5 months 
following  treatment.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - PREEMERGENCE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
AATREX 80W or        80% wettable powder   2.5 to 3.0 lb            
   ATRAZINE 80W
   or                                          or
AATREX 4L, ATRAZINE 4L  4.0 lb/gal         2.0 to 2.4 qt            2.0 to 2.4
  GRIFFEX 4L
   or                                          or
AATREX NINE-0     90% dispersible granule  2.2 to 2.6 lb

REMARKS:  Good to excellent control of most annual broadleaf  weeds.  Generally 
does  not  provide  satisfactory  grass control.  Tank mixes with LASSO,  DUAL, 
PRINCEP,  or PROWL are recommended for improved preemergence grass control.  Do 
not rotate to any crop except corn or sorghum until the following year.  Do not 
plant tobacco,  vegetables, spring-seeded small grains, or small-seeded legumes 
and grasses  the year following  application.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - PREMERGENCE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
PRINCEP 80W       80% wettable powder      2.5 to 3.0 lb 
   or                                          or
PRINCEP 4L or          4.0 lb/gal          2.0 to 2.4 qt           2.0 to 2.4
 SIM-TROL 4L                                             
   or                                          or
PRINCEP CALIBER 90  90% dispersible granule  2.2 to 2.6 lb       

REMARKS:  Annual  grasses  and broadleaf weeds.  PRINCEP requires more rainfall 
for effective weed control  and  is  more  persistent  than  atrazine.  PRINCEP 
generally  provides  less  effective  control  of  broadleaf weeds,  but better 
control of grassy weed species than atrazine.  Do not  plant  any  crop  except 
corn  until  the  following  year.  Do not plant tobacco,  vegetables,  spring- 
seeded small grains,  or small-seeded legumes and grasses  the  year  following 
application.   
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - PREMERGENCE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
R  BLADEX 80W        80% Wettable powder   1.5 to 2.0 lb              
     or                                        or
   BLADEX 4L           4.0 lb/gal          1.2 to 1.6 qt           1.2 to 1.6
     or                                        or
   BLADEX 90DF    90% dispersible granule  1.3 to 1.8 lb                       

REMARKS: Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds.  To improve grass control tank-mix 
BLADEX and DUAL, LASSO, or PROWL.  Rotation restrictions with BLADEX are not as 
limiting as those for atrazine or PRINCEP.  Any rotational crop may be  planted 
in the fall or spring following this treatment.  Some early- season corn injury 
may occur on sandy soils.  Do not use on sands or loamy sands with less than 1% 
organic matter.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
CORN - PREMERGENCE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
BICEP                   4.5 lb/gal         2.0 to 2.4 qt           2.25 to 2.7
                    (2.5 metolachlor +                            (l.25 to l.5 
                     2.0 atrazine)                                metolachlor +
 or                                            or
BICEP 6L                6.0 lb/gal         l.5 to l.8 qt          l.0 to l.2
                    (3.3 metolachlor +                             atrazine)
                     2.7 atrazine)

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, broadleaf weeds, yellow nutsedge.  BICEP and BICEP 6L 
are  package  mixtures  of  metolachlor  (DUAL)  +  atrazine.   Corn,  sorghum, 
soybeans,  cotton,  or peanuts may be planted the spring  following  treatment.
Small  grains  may be planted l5 months after application.  All other crops may 
be planted l8 months after application.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
CORN - PREMERGENCE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC          AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
LASSO AND ATRAZINE     4.0 lb/gal          2.5 to 3.5 qt           2.5 to 3.5
                     (2.5 alachlor +                      (l.6 to 2.2 alachlor+
                       l.5 atrazine)                       0.9 to l.3 atrazine)

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds.  LASSO AND ATRAZINE is a  package 
mixture of alachlor (LASSO) + atrazine.  Plant only corn,  peanuts, sorghum, or 
soybeans the year following application.  
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION            SIGN OR DAMAGE          HABITS	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
	
Chipmunk - small,        1 1/2-in to 2-in open   Digs flower bulbs and seeds.  
striped, squirrel-like   burrows with little     Destroys truck crops.	
rodent; grayish or       signs of digging.       Hibernates.
reddish brown.          
 
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  Spray or brush the part of the plant to receive protection 
with  a  thiram-type  repellent such as REPEL Liquid Animal Repellent.  Do not 
spray parts of plants to be eaten by humans or livestock.  See "Trapping".	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION              SIGN OR DAMAGE            HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Mole - 4 in to 6 in;       Extensive ridges, some-   Lives underground; makes 
short tail and pointed     times with mounds 1 in    tunnels, sometimes small
nose. Very short paddle-   to 2 in high with lumpy   mounds; feeds on worms,
like front feet; eyes      appearance; pushed up     bugs, insects, and not
and ears not visible.      instead of dug out; no    plants.
Very soft fur.             dug out; no gnawing.
PESTICIDE/REMARKS: For non-crop areas use strychnine (MOLE-NOTS) or zinc phos-
phide (R RIDALL-ZINC).  Place bait underground in runways.  SMOKE'em (for non-
crop areas) and DEXOL GOPHER GASSES (also for gardens) may be used also. Toxic 
gas should be released in the deeper, more frequently-used run-ways in several 
locations to assure lethal concentrations reach the moles.  A soil insecticide 
labeled for lawns,  gardens,  etc.,  can also be used.  Protect small areas by 
fencing. Use sheet metal or small-meshed, tightly-woven hardware cloth.  Begin 
slightly above soil surface and extend into soil 19 to 24 in.  See "Trapping".	 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
R - Some or all uses of this pesticide are restricted.	
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL & DESCRIPTION     SIGN OR DAMAGE             HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Muskrat - Dark or reddish-    Houses of rushes,     Eats aquatic plants,
brown, rat-like rodent; 20-   etc., or burrows in   insects and snails;
24 in total length; tail 8    banks, entrances,     lobsters, crabs, shrimp
in to 10 in, hairless,        below water level.    and fish; and grain and	
scaly, flattened from side    Trails at water's     garden crops.
to side. Weight 2-4 lb.       edge.                           
PESTICIDE/REMARKS: One restricted-use pesticide is available through the USDA-
APHIS Animal Damage Control, Room 904 Federal Bldg., 1835 Assembly St., Colum-
bia,  SC 29201 (Zinc Phosphide for Control of Muskrats  and  Nutria).  Prebait 
with cut carrots or sweet potatoes.  Coat 10 lbs of cut bait with corn oil and 
mix  with 7 1/2 level tablespoons of pesticide.  Place bait on anchored float-
ing rafts or place around active burrows.  Only use enough bait  on  rafts  as 
determined  needed by prebaiting.  Restrict ground baiting to situations where 
muskrats avoid rafts. Do not apply in water or where run-off is likely.  Other 
methods  include  habitat  control.  Muskrats  require  aquatic vegetation for 
food.  Eliminate as much of this growth as possible by mowing or  the  use  of 
herbicides.  See "Trapping" and "Shooting".	 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
	
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION           SIGN OR DAMAGE           HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Rabbit - Up to 15 in   Presence indicated by     Feeds on all parts of plants.	 
long including 2-in    round, fibrous pellets.   Prefers succulent foods - 	
fluffy tail.  2 1/2    gnawing and clipping      young shoots and vegetables.	
to 3 lb.  Long ears.   at 45 degree angle.
                        
REMARKS:  Fencing works on small areas.  Several repellents are available  for 
protection  of  nursery  stock,  fruit  and  nut  trees and ornamentals.  Most 
contain thiram and can be sprayed onto dry vegetation.  Others include  HINDER 
Deer  and  Rabbit  Repellent  which  can be applied on growing food crops (see 
precautions).  REPEL Animal Repellent can be spread at a rate of 1 lb/55 sq ft 
around vegetable gardens or around and between flowers and other  ornamentals.  
HOT  SAUCE  Animal  Repellent contains capsaicin,  an extract derived from hot 
peppers.  This product can be applied to  growing  crops  but  not  after  the 
edible portions begin to form.  See "Trapping" and "Shooting". 	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION              SIGN OR DAMAGE             HABITS	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Squirrel - Up to 18 in;    Twigs clipped; fruit       Lives close to trees and
excellent tree climber;    and nuts of large trees    shrubs; eats nuts and
bushy tail; grayish in     damaged; footprints 2      fruits and occasionally
color. Tail 8 1/2 in       in to 2 1/2 in.            girdles bark.	
long.	
 
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  Buildings - remove all animals from  building;  then  seal 
against  entry.  Take  care  not  to  seal squirrel inside building as extreme 
damage will result as animal tries to free itself.  Napthalene  is  registered 
as  squirrel  repellent.  Remove  tree  branches that give squirrels access to 
roof and upper stories of buildings.  See "Trapping".  Outdoors -  to  prevent 
browsing damage around trees,  shrubs and gardens, use REPEL Animal Repellent.  
Spread 1 lb/55 sq ft around the base of trees,  poles,  fence posts  or  other 
areas where squirrels are a nuisance.  See "Shooting". 	
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------	
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
	
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION             SIGN OR DAMAGE         HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Raccoon - Medium dog      2-to 3-in handlike     Prefers wooded areas around 	
size; black face          tracks; seeds dug,     water; eats fish, poultry,	
marks; color rings on     leaving 2-in holes.    eggs, grain, and fruit.	
tail; grizzled gray       Ripening corn open-	
color.  Good climber.     ed and eaten.	
	
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  No pesticides available.  See "Trapping" and "Shooting".	 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
	
______________________________________________________________________________
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION            SIGN OR DAMAGE       HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Opossum - Generally      Omnivorous; espe-    Prefers living by streams or
light gray.  Average     cially detrimental   swamps in wooded areas. Lives in
length 33 in including   to poultry.  Badly   hollow logs, rocks, crevices, 
a 12-in tail.  Female    mauled poultry       etc.
has a pouch for carry-   typical of opossum
ing young.               kill.
	
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  No pesticides available.  See "Trapping" and "Shooting".	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
 
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION             SIGN OR DAMAGE            HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Skunk - House cat size;   Rooting in lawns or       Roots for insects; liter-
black with white mark-    other fertile spots       ally "upends" some areas;	
ings; bushy tail; bad     pushed up instead of      hunts mice and eggs around	
smell; poor climber.      dug; tracks usually       farm buildings.  Common
                          dainty, from 1 to 3 in.   rabies carrier.
	
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  No pesticides available.  See "Trapping" and "Shooting".	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
	
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION        SIGN OR DAMAGE             HABITS
______________________________________________________________________________	
Gray fox - Medium    Small, dainty, dog-like     Prefers bush, timbered, and
dog size; grizzled   tracks, 1 in to 2 in.       swampy areas. Mostly nocturn-
gray to reddish      Large burrows under rocks   al. Eats rodents, fruits,
color; tail tip      or in hollow logs or dens   poultry, game, and young 
dark gray.           in piles of bark.           livestock.  Occasional rabies
                                                 carrier.	
	
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  No pesticides available.  See "Trapping" and "Shooting".	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
 
______________________________________________________________________________
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION           SIGN OR DAMAGE       HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Red fox - Medium dog    Triangular foot      Prefers fairly open country.	
size; mostly reddish    pads.  Large bur-    Mostly nocturnal.  Eats rodents,	
with white-tipped       rows in cleared or   fruits, poultry, livestock and	
tail; usually white     semi-cleared areas.  game.  Occasional rabies carrier.	
throat.	
	
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  No pesticides available.  See "Trapping" and "Shooting".	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN - PREMERGENCE
-DOC-
CORN - PREMERGENCE
CENTER PIVOT HERBICIDE APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
The following herbicides may be applied by injection through center pivot 
irrigation systems.  Apply after planting, but before crop and weeds emerge.  
Apply only through irrigation systems containing antisiphon and check valves to 
prevent contamination of water source and overflow of solution tank.  Refer to 
labels for specific directions.

    AATREX 80W, 4L, NINE-0                   ERADICANE EXTRA
    ATRABUTE+                                GENATE PLUS
    ATRABUTE+ II                             LASSO
    ATRAZINE 4L                              LASSO AND ATRAZINE
    BICEP                                    PROWL
    BICEP 6L                                 RHINO
    DUAL 8E                                  SUTAN+ 6.7E
    ERADICANE 6.7E                           SUTAZINE+ 6-ME
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
 
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION             SIGN OR DAMAGE            HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Bobcat - Brown and buff   Leaves, grass, etc.,      Prefers thickets, river	
mixed with black and      scratched over remains    bottoms, swamps, and 	
gray.  Weighs 9 to 27     of kill. Round 2-in       brushy areas. Seldom seen.	
lb. Total length 24 to    footprints without claw   Feeds on rodents, rabbits,	
40 in. Short tail. Bob-   marks.                    poultry, livestock, and 	
bing motion in flight.                              game.	
 
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  No pesticides available.  See "Trapping" and "Shooting".	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION                 SIGN OR DAMAGE       HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Deer - From large dog         Cuts tops from       Distinct trails in heavy
to pony-size animal, with     corn, soybeans,      brush.  Hoof prints in soft
or without antlers. Young -   peas, small grains.  earth.  Pelleted droppings. 
reddish with white spots.     Gnaws bark and       Lives in swamps or heavy
Adults - reddish to           browses leaves       brush. Ranges into field
grayish. Underside of         from trees.          crops and orchards for 
tail white.                                        food.	
 
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  Deer-proof  fencing.  Several  repellents  are  available.  
Most  contain  thiram  and can be sprayed onto dry vegetation.  Others contain 
ammonium soaps, paradichloro-benzene,  capsaicin,  putrescent whole egg solids 
or  bone  tar  oil.  Check  label for products which can be applied on growing 
food crops.  If extensive crop damage is involved,  contact the South Carolina 
Wildlife and Marine Resources Department.  See "Shooting". 	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION                 SIGN OR DAMAGE       HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Deer - From large dog         Cuts tops from       Distinct trails in heavy
to pony-size animal, with     corn, soybeans,      brush.  Hoof prints in soft
or without antlers. Young -   peas, small grains.  earth.  Pelleted droppings. 
reddish with white spots.     Gnaws bark and       Lives in swamps or heavy
Adults - reddish to           browses leaves       brush. Ranges into field
grayish. Underside of         from trees.          crops and orchards for 
tail white.                                        food.	
 
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  Deer-proof  fencing.  Several  repellents  are  available.  
Most  contain  thiram  and can be sprayed onto dry vegetation.  Others contain 
ammonium soaps, paradichloro-benzene,  capsaicin,  putrescent whole egg solids 
or  bone  tar  oil.  Check  label for products which can be applied on growing 
food crops.  If extensive crop damage is involved,  contact the South Carolina 
Wildlife and Marine Resources Department.  See "Shooting". 	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
 
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION           SIGN OR DAMAGE              HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Bat - The only true     The major objection to      They fly about at night in 
flying mammals.  They   their presence in build-    pursuit of night-flying    
are small, 3-to 5-in    ings is the highly          insects and roost during
body length, and        objectional odor from       the day in dark, sheltered 
resemble birds at a     droppings and urine.        places. Their "wings" are 
distance.                                           formed by membranous skin.
                                 
	
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  Napthalene or  paradichloro-benzene  flakes  or  crystals.  
Apply  about  5  lb in attic.  Slow release fumes will repel bats;  then close 
entry holes to prevent re-entry.  Illumination of the area is  also  sometimes 
effective.	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
 
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
& DESCRIPTION           SIGN OR DAMAGE       HABITS	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Beaver - Reddish-      Many kinds of trees   Inhabit everything from roadside	
brown rodent.  Most    gnawed on, girdled    ditches to large rivers and 
adults weigh from      or cut down. Flood-   lakes.  Preferred tree species	
35 to 50 lbs.  Hind    ing of growing        include willow, sweetgum, dog-
feet are webbed and    timber from dams      wood, blackgum, and even pine.	
tail is flattened      causes trees to       Agricultural crops may be cut and	
dorsoventrally and     die.                  eaten.	
almost hairless.
	
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  No pesticides are currently  registered.  Fencing  can  be 
useful   around  small,   important  areas  such  as  ornamental  trees.   See 
"Trapping".  Shooting has very limited applications.	 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL & DESCRIPTION                   SIGN OR DAMAGE
______________________________________________________________________________	
Other pests:  Snakes - 48 species and       Shed skins.  Droppings with white
subspecies in South Carolina.  Eight        ends similar to birds'.
are poisonous.	
 
POISONOUS SNAKES:  Coastal Plains - Eastern coral, eastern diamondback rattle-
snake,   pigmy  rattlesnake,   canebrake  rattlesnake,  cottonmouth  moccasin, 
southern  copperhead.   Piedmont  -  Pigmy  rattlesnake,  timber  rattlesnake, 
northern  and  southern  copperhead.  Nonpoisonous  -  Represented  throughout 
entire state.	 
	
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  Habitat  control.  No repellents or pesticides labeled for 
snake control.  Glueboards for rats and mice tacked together on a  long  board 
will capture snakes attempting to cross.  These are most effective indoors.	 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
 
______________________________________________________________________________	
PEST ANIMAL	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Other pests:	
Fish
	
PESTICIDE/REMARKS:  Rotenone - control undesirable fish before stocking pond.	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN - PREEMERGENCE HERBICIDE MIXTURES
-DOC-
CORN - PREEMERGENCE HERBICIDE MIXTURES

Herbicide mixtures:  Herbicide tank mixtures  or  package  mixtures  are  often 
needed to broaden the spectrum of weeds controlled.  They may also improve crop 
tolerance  or reduce potential rotation problems by allowing use of lower rates 
while maintaining satisfactory weed control.  Cultivation and/or  postemergence 
treatments may be necessary since rates of atrazine or BLADEX in these mixtures 
may  be  too  low  to  provide  consistent  control.  Recommended  preemergence 
herbicide mixtures and rates of active ingredient are listed below.  

          l.  Tank Mixtures

          2.  Package Mixtures
_______________________________________________________________________________
CORN - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LASSO + AATREX 80W or ATRAZINE 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 qt + l.25 to l.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 + l.0 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LASSO + AATREX 4L or ATRAZINE 4L or GRIFFEX 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 qt + l.0 to l.2 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 + l.0 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LASSO + AATREX NINE-0
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 qt + l.l to l.3 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 + l.0 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E + AATREX 80W or ATRAZINE 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.25 to 2.0 pt + l.25 to 2.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.25 to 2.0 + l.0 to 2.0 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E + AATREX 4L or ATRAZINE 4L or GRIFFEX 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.25 to 2.0 pt + l.0 to 2.0 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.25 to 2.0 + l.0 to 2.0 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E + AATREX NINE-0
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.25 to 2.0 pt + l.l to 2.2 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.25 to 2.0 + l.0 to 2.0 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE:  In most cases formulations of atrazine and simazine are  interchangeable 
in these mixtures-i.e.  the 4.0 lb/gal and 90% dispersible granule formulations 
may be used in place of the 80% wettable powder,  etc.  However,  check product 
labels prior to use.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AATREX 80W or ATRAZINE 80W + PRINCEP 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.25 to l.5 lb + l.25 to l.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.0 to l.2 + l.0 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AATREX 4L, ATRAZINE 4L, or GRIFFEX 4L + PRINCEP 4L or SIM-TROL 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.0 to l.2 qt + l.0 to l.2 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.0 to l.2 + l.0 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AATREX NINE-0 + PRINCEP CALIBER 90
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.l to l.3 lb + l.l to l.3 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.0 to l.2 + l.0 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE:  In most cases formulations of atrazine and BLADEX are interchangeable in 
these  tank  mixtures  -  i.e.  the  4.0  lb/gal  and  90%  dispersible granule 
formulations may be used in place of the 80%  wettable  powder,  etc.  However, 
check product labels prior to use.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AATREX 80W or ATRAZINE 80W + BLADEX 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  0.75 to l.5 lb + 0.75 to l.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.6 to l.2 + 0.6 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AATREX 4L, ATRAZINE 4L, or GRIFFEX 4L + BLADEX 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  0.6 to l.2 qt + 0.6 to l.2 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.6 to l.2 + 0.6 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AATREX NINE-0 + BLADEX 90DF
    Formulated Product/Ac:  0.7 to l.3 lb + 0.7 to l.3 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.6 to l.2 + 0.6 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL + AATREX 80W or ATRAZINE 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 pt + l.25 to l.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.75 + l.0 + l.0 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL + AATREX 4L or ATRAZINE 4L or GRIFFEX 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 pt + l.0 to l.2 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.75 to l.0 + l.0 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL + AATREX NINE-0
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 pt + l.l to l.3 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.75 to l.0 + l.0 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LASSO + BLADEX 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 qt + l.0 to l.8 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 + 0.8 to l.4 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LASSO + BLADEX 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 qt + 0.8 to l.4 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 + 0.8 to l.4 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LASSO + BLADEX 90DF
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 qt + 0.9 to l.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 + 0.8 to l.4 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E + BLADEX 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.25 to l.75 pt + l.0 to l.8 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.25 to l.75 + 0.8 to l.4 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E + BLADEX 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.25 to l.75 pt + 0.8 to l.4 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.25 to l.75 + 0.8 to l.4 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E + BLADEX 90DF
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.25 to l.75 pt + 0.9 to l.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.25 to l.75 + 0.8 to l.4 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL + BLADEX 80W
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 pt + l.25 to l.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.75 to l.0 + l.0 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL + BLADEX 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 pt + l.0 to l.2 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.75 to l.0 + l.0 to l.2 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - PREEMERGENCE PACKAGE MIXTURES
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BICEP
    Formulated Product/Ac:  2.0 to 2.4 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  2.25 to 2.7 lb

BICEP is a package mixture of metolachlor (DUAL) + atrazine.  See 
recommendation under CORN - PREEMERGENCE.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BICEP 6L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to l.8 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  2.25 to 2.7 lb

BICEP  6L  is  a  package  mixture  of  metolachlor  (DUAL)  +  atrazine.   See 
recommendation under CORN - PREEMERGENCE.    
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LASSO AND ATRAZINE 
    Formulated Product/Ac:  2.5 to 3.5 qt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  2.5 to 3.5 lb

LASSO AND ATRAZINE is a package mixture of alachlor (Lasso) and atrazine.  See
recommendation under CORN - PREEMERGENCE.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
	
SHOOTING:	                                     	
	
Squirrels, rabbits, muskrats, raccoons, opossums, skunks, bobcats, deer	
	
Shooting is  an  accepted  control  method  for  these  species.  Check  local 
ordinances  about  discharging a firearm in your area;  then contact the South 
Carolina Wildlife and Marine Resources Department about obtaining  a  depreda-
tion permit.	 
 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
	
TRAPPING:	
	
Rats and Mice
 
Traps are usually not effective in controlling  large  populations.  They  are 
used  to  control  small populations,  in situations where toxicants cannot be 
used,  to avoid dead rat odor,  and to eliminate bait-shy  rodents.  The  most 
commonly  used traps are snap traps.  Cage or box-type traps are also used and 
are effective for catching invaders.  
 
Since rodents are not going to travel far,  a sufficient number of traps  must 
be used in places where rodents are.  Travel-ways for house mice,  Norway rats 
and roof rats will be beneath horizontal structures and against vertical ones.  
 
Place traps so that the trigger end is against a vertical surface  where  rats 
are traveling.  Bait traps with foods normally taken by rats and mice.  Change 
bait when it becomes stale.  
	
	
More  rats  and mice are caught the first night with about 10 to 20 percent of 
the traps being successful.  If more traps than this have  rats  or  mice,  it 
indicates that more traps should be used.  
 
Snap  traps  can  be  used  unbaited  if  the trigger is enlarged to provide a 
platform.  Fasten a 1 1/2-inch square of fly screen or cardboard  securely  to 
the trigger.  The platform is then placed directly in rat runs.  
 
Cotton Rats	
	
Cotton  rats  are  very easy to trap using either live (Sherman-type) traps or 
the more economical and efficient snap-trap rat traps.  Use peanut  butter  as 
bait.  To  aid  in  excluding non-target animals,  place the traps under thick 
grass.  This is also where the most cotton rats will be.  Not to  be  used  on 
large acreages.  
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
	
TRAPPING:
Chipmunks, Squirrels, Rabbits, and Skunks
 
Live traps can be used for these animals.  Check local game laws  on  trapping 
and removing game animals, furbearers, and nongame animals.  
 
Bait  traps  with peanut butter and rolled oats or nut meats for chipmunks and 
squirrels.  Skunks can be attracted to canned pet food with  a  meat  or  fish 
base,  fish,  bacon,  chicken, or whole eggs.  Skunks are easy to trap and, if 
the trap is handled without shaking or jarring,  the skunk can be  transported 
and  released with no musk discharge.  If,  however,  the skunk does discharge 
musk, ammonia water will neutralize the odor.  
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
	
TRAPPING:
Bobcats, Foxes, Muskrats, Opossums, Beavers, and Raccoons
 
Steel  traps  are  effective  for  bobcats,  foxes,  muskrats,  opossums,  and 
raccoons.  Conibear  traps  are more effective for beavers.  Muskrats can also 
be taken with the smaller No.  110 Conibear.  All of these  animals  are  pro-
tected under the furbearer game laws in South Carolina;  check your local game 
laws before controlling them.  Specific information on trapping these  species 
may  be  obtained from your local conservation officer,  state game biologist, 
county agent, or Extension wildlife specialist.  
 
Using steel traps or  kill  traps  without  proper  knowledge  can  result  in 
trapping nontarget animals,  such as dogs or other  wildlife,  or  injuring  a 
human.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VERTEBRATE PESTS	                               
-DOC-
                               VERTEBRATE PESTS	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
	
TRAPPING:
 
Moles
 
The  harpoon  and  choker  traps  are used to catch moles.  Harpoon or plunger 
traps are set by flattening a small section of the runway with  your  hand  or 
foot.  Place the trap with the trigger pan on the flattened runway.  Raise and 
lower  the  prongs  of the trap until they penetrate easily,  making sure they 
cover the tunnel.  
 
The choker trap is also set in a small flattened section of the  mole  runway.  
Make  slits in the ground for the trap loops.  Place choker loops in the slits 
so that they encircle the runway.  The loops should be at least an inch  below 
the original passage.  
 
Any portion of the trap exposed in the runway will cause the mole to avoid the 
trap.  Make  sure  you  set  traps  on  runways that are being used.  Check by 
blocking the runway; active runways will be reopened by the moles.  
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN - MINIMUM TILLAGE                                             
-DOC-
CORN - MINIMUM TILLAGE                                             
  
Herbicides recommended for control of existing vegetation at planting .  
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
R GRAMOXONE SUPER      l.5 lb/gal         1.5 to 2.5 pt            0.25 to 0.5
                                                                 
REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds plus top-kill of some  perennials.
Use  the  high  rate if weeds are 4 to 6 inches tall.  Control of weeds greater 
than 6 inches in height may be poor.  Apply at planting or immediately after in 
20 to 60 gal water/ac.  Add Ortho X-77 Spreader at 8 oz/100 gal spray  solution 
(in some tank mixes a nonionic surfactant similar to X-77 Spreader may be used-
 refer  to  product  labels for specific directions concerning surfactant use).
Control of horseweed and eveningprimrose is  generally  poor.  GRAMOXONE  SUPER 
will  provide  top-kill  of  bermudagrass  and  johnsongrass,  but  control  is 
generally unsatisfactory.  GRAMOXONE SUPER provides no residual control.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
*R  - Some or all uses of this product are restricted. 
CORN - MINIMUM TILLAGE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
ROUNDUP                4.0 lb/gal         1.0 to 1.5 qt            1.0 to 1.5

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds.  Apply at planting or immediately 
after in 10 to 40 gal water/ac.  Use 1.0 qt/ac if weeds are less than 6  inches 
tall  and 1.5 qt/ac if weeds are over 6 inches tall.  ROUNDUP tank mixtures are 
not recommended for johnsongrass and bermudagrass  control.  ROUNDUP  does  not 
provide  residual weed control.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - MINIMUM TILLAGE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
BRONCO                  4.0 lb/gal        3.25 to 4.0 qt           3.l to 4.0
                     (l.4 glyphosate +                            (1.1 to 1.4
                      2.6 alachlor)                                glyphosate
                                                                      +    
                                                                  2.1 to 2.6
                                                                  alachlor)

REMARKS:  BRONCO is a package mixture of  glyphosate  +  alachlor  (the  active 
ingredients of ROUNDUP and LASSO,  respectively).  Please refer to comments for 
these herbicides for additional information.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALGAE                                                    
-DOC-
                                     ALGAE               
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
Planktonic:    
anabaena, chlorella,    copper sulfate       0.68-4.08 lb*/ac-ft         
microcystis               KOCIDE                            
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Easiest method to apply  is  to  dissolve  the  copper 
sulfate  in water and to spray this water over the body of water.  Treat again 
as necessary.  Safe in drinkable water if precautions on label  are  followed.  
Trout or other fish may be killed,  especially in soft or acid waters.  Copper 
sulfate is more effective if used in warmer waters (above 60 F) and  early  in 
the growing season. 
                        copper, elemental    0.6 gal* of Cutrine-Plus/
                          CUTRINE-PLUS       ac-ft of water
PRECAUTIONS  & REMARKS:  Chemical should be diluted at least 9 to 1 to achieve 
uniform dispersion of algaecide in water.  All copper elemental  products  are 
harmful to fish in soft water (less than 50 ppm CaCO3). 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
Anabaena, chlorella,      AV-70              5/8 gal*/ac-ft 
microcystis
                          K-TEA              0.68-1.7 gal*/ac-ft 
 
PRECAUTIONS  &  REMARKS:  Mix  with  10-20 parts water and spray over surface.  
Repeat treatment if necessary. 
 
                          AQUAZINE           1.7 lb*/ac-ft of water for 
                                             light infestation; 2.5-3.4 
                                             lb for moderate infestation 
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Mix powder with water to make a slurry  and  place  in 
shallow  water  around the pond.  Uniform dispersion is not necessary.  Do not 
use treated water for irrigation,  human or livestock consumption for  12  mo.  
Do not attempt spot treatment.      
______________________________________________________________________________ 
 
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients  
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
Spirogyra, anabaena,    copper sulfate       0.68-1.36 lb/ac-ft                
hydrodictyon, oedogo-     KOCIDE                  
nium, rhizocolium                                                           
                                                  
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Most waters in South Carolina are soft or in the range 
of 0-75 mg/l of total hardness.  Using copper sulfate in soft water  can  kill 
fish.  Soft  water  should  be  limed  before applying copper sulfate.  
Copper sulfate is safe in  potable  water  as  long  as  recommended  rates  
are  not exceeded.  
                        copper, elemental    0.6 gal* of Cutrine-Plus/ 
                          CUTRINE-PLUS       ac-ft of water 
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Dilute  9  to 1 to achieve uniform dispersion of the 
algaecide. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.
	
	
______________________________________________________________________________
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________
Spirogyra, anabaena,      AV-70 PLUS         5/8 gal*/ac-ft
hydrodictyon, oedo-       K-TEA              1.7-3.4 gal*/ac-ft
gonium, rhizocolium 
 
PRECAUTIONS  &  REMARKS:  Mix  with  10-20 parts water and spray over surface.  
Repeat treatment if necessary.      
 
                          AQUAZINE           4.25 lb*/ac-ft 
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Mix with 10-20 parts water  and  spray  over  surface.  
Repeat  treatment  if  necessary.  Do  not use water for irrigation,  human or 
livestock consumption for 12 mo.    
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients. 
 
	
	
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
Spirogyra, anabaena,      HYDROTHOL 191      0.6 to 2.2 pt*/ac-ft  
hydrodictyon, oedo-                          (0.05 to 0.2 ppm) 
gonium, rhizocolium 
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Apply as uniform surface spray or inject under  water.  
fish  may  be  killed  by  rates in excess of 0.3 ppm.  Apply to shallow edges 
first to allow fish to escape to deep water.  
 
                          HYDROTHOL 191      3 lb to 11 lb*/ac-ft                            granular           (0.05 to 0.2 ppm) 
 
                          HYDOUT             1.5 to 5.5 lb* Hydout/ac-ft 
                                             (0.05 to 0.2 ppm) 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Broadcast evenly over plants.  Fish may be killed with 
rates in excess of 0.3 ppm. 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
*Rates are formulated products, not active ingredients.
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
Pithophora**              CUTRINE-PLUS       60 lb*/surface ac
cladophora                granular
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Granular Cutrine can be used to spot treat.  Cyclone 
seeders are useful for applying granular.  Avoid breathing dust.  Pithophora 
and other bottom-growing algae are extremely hard to control.  Works best on 
calm water.   
                          AV-70 PLUS         5/8 gal*/ac-ft 
 
                          K-TEA              1.7-3.4 gal*/ac-ft
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Mix with 10-20 parts water  and  spray  over  surface.  
Repeat treatment if necessary.      
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
  *Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.
 **Pithophora usually requires retreatment.  
 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
Pithophora**,             AQUAZINE           4.25 lb*/ac-ft 
cladophora
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Mix powder with water to make a slurry  and  place  in 
shallow  water  around the pond.  Uniform dispersion is not necessary.  Do not 
attempt spot treatment.  
 
                          HYDROTHOL 191      0.6 to 2.2 pt*/ac-ft 
                                             (0.05 to 0.2 ppm) 
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Apply as spray or inject under water.  Pithophora  may 
require  0.2  ppm  or higher rates.  Fish may be killed with rates higher than 
0.3 ppm or in extremely hot water.  Not as effective on cladophora.  
______________________________________________________________________________ 
 
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients. 
 
**Pithophora usually requires retreatment.   
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
Pithophora**,             HYDROTHOL 191      3 lb to 11 lb*/ac-ft       
cladophora                granular           (0.05 to 0.2 ppm) 
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Broadcast evenly over plant material.  Pithophora  may 
require  0.2  pm or higher rates.  Fish may be killed at rates higher than 0.3 
ppm.  Not as effective on cladophora.    
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Attached and              CUTRINE-PLUS       60 lb*/surface ac of water
weedlike -                granular
Chara, nitella
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Apply when plants are young  and  uncalcified.  Follow 
label directions.  Cutrine may be harmful to fish in soft water.  Water can be 
used  for  swimming,  fishing  and  irrigation  of  turf and ornamental plants 
immediately after treatment.   
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients. 
**Pithophora usually requires retreatment.   
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________
Chara, nitella            CUTRINE-PLUS       1.2 gal*/ac-ft                   
                          liquid   
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS: Use when water is 3 ft deep or less. Dilute 9 to 1 with 
water.  Cutrine may be harmful to fish in soft water.       
Chara, nitella 
                          AV-70 PLUS         1.25 gal*/ac-ft
 
                          K-TEA              1.7-3.4 gal*/ac-ft
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Mix with 10-20 parts water  and  spray  over  surface.  
Repeat treatment if necessary.      
______________________________________________________________________________ 
 
*Rates for formulated products, not active ingredients.     
 
 
 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
Chara, nitella            AQUAZINE           4.25 lb*/ac-ft
 
PRECAUTIONS  &  REMARKS:  Mix  powder with water to make a slurry and place in 
shallow water around the pond.  Uniform dispersion is not  necessary.  Do  not 
use treated water for irrigation,  human,  or livestock consumption for 12 mo.  
Do not attempt spot treatment.      
 
                          HYDROTHOL 191      0.6 to 2.2 pt*/ac-ft 
                                             (0.05 to 0.2 ppm) 
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Check label for calculating rates and for precautions. 
 
                          HYDROTHOL 191      3 lb to 11 lb*/ac-ft 
                          granular           (0.05 to 0.2 ppm) 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
 
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AQUATIC WEED CONTROL	                             
-DOC-
                             AQUATIC WEED CONTROL	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
______________________________________________________________________________	
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Floating plants:          DIQUAT             1/2-1 gal*/surface ac
duckweed, waterfern,      	
water hyacinth	
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Foliar spray  or  inject  into  nonflowing  water  and 
nonmuddy water.  Do not use treated water for irrigation,  livestock, fishing, 
swimming,  or drinking for 10 days.  Use higher rate as recommended  on  label 
for late season application.  Do not disturb treated plants.  
 
                          SONAR A.S.,        See label	
                          SRP, 5P
	
PRECAUTIONS  &  REMARKS:  Add Sonar to water and spray over weeds.  Apply only 
one time per year to a treatment site.	 
______________________________________________________________________________
	
*Rate of formulated product, not active ingredient.	
 
Floating plants (cont'd)	
_____________________________________________________________________________
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Duckweed, waterfern,    2,4-D amine 69.9%    2 1/2-4 1/2 pt*/surface ac	
water hyacinth          salts or low        	
                        volatile esters	
                          WEED-RHAP LV-4D	
                         
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Mix each gallon 2,4-D with  99  gal  water  and  1  pt 
detergent.  Spray  foliage  when weeds are growing.  Include detergent or 1 pt 
emulsifier.  Repeat every 4 to 6 wk.  Use higher rate as recommended on  label 
for late season application.	 
_____________________________________________________________________________	
 
*Rate of formulated product, not active ingredient.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AQUATIC WEED CONTROL	                             
-DOC-
                             AQUATIC WEED CONTROL	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
______________________________________________________________________________	
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Emergent plants:          RODEO              6 pt*/ac
alligator weed
water primrose	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Apply when plants are in bloom.  Repeat application 
will be required to maintain partial control.  Rodeo will not control 
submerged plants.	 
                        2,4-D amine salts 	
                        or low volatile 	
                        esters	
                          WEED-RHAP LV-4D    2 1/2-4 1/2 pt*/surface ac	
                          BANVEL-720         1 gal*/49 gal water	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Spray to uniformly wet foliage when weeds are growing.  
Alligator weed can be killed back but will quickly re-establish itself.  Apply 
50-75  gal  of  Banvel-720 mixture/surface ac.  Use surfactant as described on 
label.	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
Emergent plants (cont'd)	
______________________________________________________________________________	
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Spikerush or              DIQUAT             1 gal*/surface ac	
hairgrass	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Inject or apply as evenly as possible and avoid muddy-
ing  the  water  as much as possible.  Spikerush is extremely hard to control, 
and Diquat may not give desired results.  Works best on bright, sunny days.	 
	
                          SONAR A.S.,	
                          SRP, 5P            See label	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Add Sonar to water and spray over  weeds.  Apply  only 
one  time  per  year to a treatment site.  Sonar only provides partial control 
for spikerush.	 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
	
	
Emergent plants (cont'd)	
______________________________________________________________________________	
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL                  RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
______________________________________________________________________________	
American lotus,           SONAR A.S.,             See label            
waterlily, pickerel       SRP, 5P            	
weed, yellow cowlily,	
watershield	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Add Sonar to water and spray over  weeds.  Apply  only 
one time per year to a treatment site.	 
 
                        2,4-D (granular)          30-40 lb/surface ac
                          AQUA-KLEEN (27.6%)      150-200 lb*/surface ac                           WEEDTRINE-II (28.4%)    100 lb/surface ac	
	
PRECAUTIONS  & REMARKS:  Broadcast at early stage of weed growth using cyclone 
seeder or other spreader.  Water pH of  8.0  or  above  may  reduce  effective 
action of Aqua-Kleen and Weedtrine-II. 	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	

	
Emergent plants (cont'd)	
______________________________________________________________________________	
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL                  RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Arrowhead, smartweed    2,4-D                     4 lb active ingredient or	
                          ISOCTYLESTER            1 gal*/surface ac	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Spray on foliage; follow label instructions.	
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------	
Frogbit, pennywort      2,4-D                     Spray 50-60 gal mixture/
                                                  surface ac for frogbit;	
                                                  50-75 gal mixture/surface ac	
                                                  for pennywort
	
                          BANVEL-720              1 gal*/49 gal water
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Spray on foliage; follow label instructions.	
______________________________________________________________________________	
	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AQUATIC WEED CONTROL	                             
-DOC-
                             AQUATIC WEED CONTROL	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife
______________________________________________________________________________	
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL                  RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Submerged plants:       2,4-D (granular)          20 lb/surface ac	
Watermilfoil              WEEDTRINE II            100 lb*/surface ac	
                          AQUA-KLEEN              100 lb*/surface ac	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Broadcast over surface of weeds before midsummer.	
 
                        endothall	
                          AQUATHOL GRANULAR       50 lb* to 80 lb*/ac-ft	
                          AQUATHOL K              1 to 2 gal*/ac-ft	
 
PRECAUTIONS  &  REMARKS:  Broadcast  over  surface  using higher rates in late 
season.  Spray or inject using  higher  rates  late  in  season.  Due  to  the 
toxicity  to  fish,  the  use  of these two products for submerged aquatics is 
suggested only by commercial applicators.  Refer to label for rates,  applica-
ion instructions, and precautions for specific plants.	 	
______________________________________________________________________________	
	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
Submerged plants (cont'd)	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL                  RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
______________________________________________________________________________	
Watermilfoil            endothall
(cont'd)                  HYDROTHOL 191           50 lb* to 80* lb/ac-ft
                          HYDROTHOL 191           1 to 2 gal*/ac-ft
                          GRANULAR	
 
PRECAUTIONS  &  REMARKS:  Broadcast  over  surface  using higher rates in late 
season.  Spray or inject using  higher  rates  late  in  season.  Due  to  the 
toxicity  to  fish,  the  use  of these two products for submerged aquatics is 
suggested only by commercial applicators.  Refer to label for rates,  applica-
ion instructions, and precautions for specific plants.	 
 
                          AQUAZINE                3.4 to 6.8 lb*/ac-ft	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS: Use higher rates for heavy infestations and late in the 
season.  Note restrictions on use of treated water.  
______________________________________________________________________________	
	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients	
Submerged plants (cont'd)	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL                  RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Watermilfoil              DIQUAT                  1-2 gal*/surface ac	
(cont'd)	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Follow label instructions for application during early 
or late season.  Use higher rates for heavy infestations,  late season  treat-
ment, and/or mixed plant species.  Do not inject into muddy water.	 
	
                          SONAR A.S.,             See label	
                          SRP, 5P
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Spray over surface.  Apply only once a year.	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
Cabomba                    DIQUAT                 1-2 gal*/surface ac	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Inject, following previous instructions.	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
Submerged plants (cont'd)	
_______________________________________________________________________________
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL                  RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Cabomba (cont'd)          AQUAZINE                8.5 lb*/ac-ft	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Apply according to label; note 1-yr restriction on use 
of treated pond by cattle.	 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
Bladderwort               SONAR A.S.,             See label	
                          SRP, 5P
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Spray over surface; apply only once a year.	
	
                          AQUA-KLEEN              150-200 lb*/surface ac	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Broadcast over weeds before midsummer.	
                          DIQUAT	
                            WEEDTRINE D           5-10 gal*/surface ac	
                            ORTHO DIQUAT          1-2 gal*/surface ac	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Use higher rates for  heavy  infestation  and/or  late 
season application according to label directions. 	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
Submerged plants (cont'd)	
_______________________________________________________________________________
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Waterstargrass          endothall	
                          AQUATHOL K         1.3 to 1.9 gal*/ac-ft of water	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Use higher rates for heavy infestation and/or late 
season application.	 
 
                          AQUATHOL           54 lb to 81 lb/ac-ft
                          GRANULAR           (2-3 ppm)	
	
PRECAUTIONS  & REMARKS:  Broadcast evenly over plants.  Treat heavily infested 
ponds in sections.	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
Wigeongrass              DIQUAT             3/4 gal*/surface ac	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Inject into nonflowing water.	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
Submerged plants (cont'd)	
_______________________________________________________________________________
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Parrotfeather           2,4-D granular	
                          WEEDTRINE II       100 lb*/surface ac	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Broadcast over weed surface.	
	
                          DIQUAT             3/4 gal*/surface ac	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Inject into nonflowing water.	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
Coontail                2.4-D granular	
                          AQUA-KLEEN         150-200 lb*/surface ac	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Apply evenly over infested area before midsummer.	
	
                          WEEDTRINE II	
                          GRANULAR           100 lb*/surface ac	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Apply evenly over infested area before midsummer.	
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------	
	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
	
Submerged plants (cont'd)	
_______________________________________________________________________________
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Coontail (cont'd)         DIQUAT             1-2 gal*/surface ac	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Inject into nonflowing water.	
	
                          SONAR A.S.,        See label	
                          SRP, 5P	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Spray over surface.  Apply only once a year.	
 
                        endothall	
                          AQUATHOL K         0.6-1.3 gal*/ac-ft (1-2 ppm)	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Spray or  inject  as  evenly  as  possible.  For  best 
results apply early in the growing season.	 
 
                          AQUATHOL           27-54 lb*/ac-ft (1-2 ppm)	
                          GRANULAR	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Broadcast evenly over plants.  Treat heavily infested 
ponds in sections.  	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
Submerged plants (cont'd)	
_______________________________________________________________________________
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Common elodea (cont'd)    DIQUAT             2 gal*/surface ac	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Apply by pouring or injecting  formulated  product  or 
solution according to directions on label.  Do not inject into muddy water.	 
 
                        endothall	
                          AQUATHOL K         1-2 ppm or 0.6-1.3 gal*/	
                                             ac-ft of water	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Spray or inject using higher rates later in season.	 
 
                          AQUATHOL 
                          GRANULAR           27-54 lb*/ac-ft of water	
PRECAUTIONS  &  REMARKS:  Broadcast  over  surface  of  infested area.  Due to 
toxicity to fish,  the use of endothall  formulations  for  submerged  aquatic 
plants  is  suggested  only by commercial applicators.  Refer to the label for 
rates and precautions.	 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
Submerged plants (cont'd)	
_______________________________________________________________________________
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Common elodea           endothall            27-54 lb*/ac-ft of water
(cont'd)                  HYDROTHOL 191	
                          HYDROTHOL 191 GRANULAR	
 
PRECAUTIONS  &  REMARKS:  Broadcast  over  surface  of  infested area.  Due to 
toxicity to fish,  the use of endothall  formulations  for  submerged  aquatic 
plants  is  suggested  only by commercial applicators.  Refer to the label for 
rates and precautions.	 
 
                          SONAR A.S.,        See label	
                          SRP, 5P	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Spray over surface.  Apply only once a year.	
 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
	
Submerged plants (cont'd)	
_______________________________________________________________________________
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Naiads                    DIQUAT	
                            ORTHO DIQUAT     1 gal*/surface ac	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Pour or  inject  formulated  product  or  solution  of 
product according to label recommendations.  Do not use in muddy water.	 
	
                          AQUAZINE           3.4 to 6.8 lb*/ac ft of water	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Apply according to label; note 1-yr restriction on use 
of treated water for cattle.	 
 
                          CUTRINE-PLUS       60 lb*/surface ac	
                          granular	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Apply early in season.	
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
Submerged plants (cont'd)	
_______________________________________________________________________________
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL                 RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Naiads (cont'd)         endothall	
                          HYDROTHALL 191	
                          HYDROTHALL 191 GRAN.	
	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Due to the toxicity to fish, use of these formulations 
for submerged aquatic plants is  suggested  only  by  commercial  applicators.  
Refer to the label for rates and precautions.	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
Potamogeton spp.          AQUAZINE           3.4 to 6.8 lb*/ac-ft of water	
(pond weeds)	
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Apply according to label; note 1-yr restriction on use 
of treated water for cattle.	 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------	
	
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.	
	
	
Submerged plants (cont'd)	
_______________________________________________________________________________
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL                RATE OR CONCENTRATION	
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
Potamogeton spp.        endothall               0.6 gal to 1.9 gal*/ac-ft
(cont'd)                  AQUATHOL K                 (1 to 3 ppm)              
                                                          
PRECAUTIONS  & REMARKS:  Spray or inject below water.  Distribute as evenly as 
possible.	 
                          AQUATHOL GRAN.        27 lb to 81 lb*/ac-ft 	
                          HYDROTHOL 191              (1 to 3 ppm)
                          HYDROTHOL 191 GRAN.	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Due to toxicity to fish, use of endothall formulations 
for  submerged  aquatic  plants  is  suggested only by commercial applicators.  
Refer to label for rates and precautions.	 
	
                          SONAR A.S.,        See label	
                          SRP, 5P	
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Spray over surface.  Apply only once a year.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients.
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AQUATIC WEED CONTROL                              
-DOC-
                             AQUATIC WEED CONTROL 
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife 
 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED                    CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
Aquatic grasses                   RODEO              4.75 pt/ac
(ditches with flowing                                Refer to label for rates
water and impoundments):                             on specific species.
 
Sawgrass, southern water-
grass, cutgrass, giant
foxtail, giant reed,
maidencane, paragrass,
torpedograss, water
paspalum 
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Refer to label for growth stage to apply treatment for 
specific species.  Note surfactant information on label.  
 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
	
Aquatic grasses (cont'd) 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
Aquatic grasses         dalapon              10-22 lb ai/ac
(ditches, banks of                           (Follow label recommendations
impoundments):                               according to species.)
 
Cutgrass, giant       
foxtail, giant reed, 
maidencane, para- 
grass, torpedograss, 
water paspalum 
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Apply in 100 to 400 gal water/ac as ground spray or in 
5  to  15  gal  water/ac  as aerial spray when grasses are 6 to 18 in tall and 
before heading;  add 3  to  4  pt  of  wetting  agent/100  gal  water.  Repeat 
application  as regrowth occurs.  Use only in drainage ditches with no flowing 
water and on pond banks.  Do not use dalapon in or near water.  
 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
	
Aquatic grasses (cont'd) 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
 
Ditches, banks of        RODEO               4.75 pt/ac (Refer to label for 
impoundments (cont'd)                        rates on specific species.)
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Refer to label for growth stage to apply treatment for 
specific species.  Note surfactant information on label.  
 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
Emergent cattail          DIQUAT             1 oz* Diquat/3.0 gal water and 
                                             1.0 oz wetting agent (detergent) 
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Spray on foliage before seed head is formed to prevent 
reseeding.  Do  not use treated water for consumption,  spraying or irrigation 
for 14 days.  
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
*Rates are for formulated products, not active ingredients. 
Aquatic grasses (cont'd) 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
AQUATIC WEED            CHEMICAL             RATE OR CONCENTRATION 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
Emergent cattail        dalapon              15 lb active ingredients/ac 
(cont'd)                                     plus surfactant such as 2 qt 
                                             Danwet

PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Spray on foliage during May.  Dalapon is  not  labeled 
for  use in impoundments or flowing water.  Lower water level and allow mud to 
dry before application.  
                          RODEO              4 1/2-7 1/2 pt/ac
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS: Apply when plants are in bloom.  Best results in summer 
or fall months. 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Bulrushes               2,4-D   (low         4.0 to 6.0 lb/ac ai or 1-1.5 gal/ 
                        (volatile esters)    ac with surfactant
 
PRECAUTIONS & REMARKS:  Mix 1 gal 2,4-D with surfactant  and  100  gal  water.  
Spray 100-150 gal/ac.  
______________________________________________________________________________ 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GENERAL RESTRICTIONS ON USE OF TREATED WATER	                 
-DOC-
                 GENERAL RESTRICTIONS ON USE OF TREATED WATER	
           D. L. Robinette, Head, Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
_______________________________________________________________________________
COMMON NAME                                  AMOUNT OF
CHEMICAL NAME                                   A.I.              CONC PPM
_______________________________________________________________________________
BANVEL-720*                                   
Dimethylamine salt of dicamba                 12.8%                 --
Dimethylamine salts of related acids           3.2%                 --
Dimethylamine salt of 2,4-dichloro-
 phenoxyacetic acid                           24.6%                 --
 
CUTRINE-PLUS LIQUID**
Copper Alkanolamine Complex                    9.0%                
_______________________________________________________________________________
 *HUMAN DRINKING, SWIMMING,  FISH CONSUMPTION,  ANIMAL DRINKING:  Restrictions 
  were not available.  Consult chemical manufacturer,  county Extension agent, 
  or State Plant Pest Regulatory Service.  IRRIGATION  OF  TURF,  FOOD  CROPS, 
  FORAGE: 14 days.  
	
**HUMAN AND ANIMAL DRINKING,  SWIMMING,  FISH CONSUMPTION, IRRIGATION OF TURF, 
  FOOD CROPS AND FORAGE: 0 days.  
______________________________________________________________________________
COMMON NAME                                  AMOUNT OF
CHEMICAL NAME                                   A.I.              CONC PPM
______________________________________________________________________________
AV-70 PLUS*
K-TEA*
Copper-triethanolamine Complex                 8.0%
 
DALAPON**
2,2-dichloropropionic acid                    74.0%
 
CUTRINE-PLUS GRANULAR***                        
Copper Alkanolamine Complex                    3.7%	
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
   *HUMAN DRINKING, SWIMMING, FISH CONSUMPTION; ANIMAL DRINKING; IRRIGATION OF 
    TURF, FOOD CROPS, FORAGE:  0 days.
 
  **Care should be taken to  prevent  contamination  of  water.  Presently  no 
    approval for aquatic use is contained on the manufacturer's label.  
 
***HUMAN AND ANIMAL DRINKING,  SWIMMING, FISH CONSUMPTION, IRRIGATION OF TURF, 
   FOOD CROPS AND FORAGE: 0 days.  
______________________________________________________________________________
COMMON NAME                                  AMOUNT OF
CHEMICAL NAME                                   A.I.              CONC PPM
_______________________________________________________________________________
2,4-D LIQUID ESTER*
2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid               3.8 lb/gal
 
2,4-D GRANULAR ESTER*
2,4,5-trichlorophenoxyacetic acid              19%/lb
 
DIQUAT**
1:1-ethylene-2:2-dipridylium dibromide     2 lb cation/gal
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
*SWIMMING:  1 day;  FISH CONSUMPTION & IRRIGATION OF TURF:  3 days;  HUMAN AND 
 ANIMAL  DRINKING  AND IRRIGATION OF FOOD CROPS AND FORAGE:  Restrictions were 
 not available;  consult chemical manufacturer,  county  Extension  agent,  or 
 State Plant Pest Regulatory Service.  
 
**HUMAN,  ANIMAL  DRINKING;  SWIMMING,  IRRIGATION/TURF/FOOD CROPS/FORAGE:  14 
  days.  
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
COMMON NAME                                  AMOUNT OF
CHEMICAL NAME                                   A.I.              CONC/PPM
_______________________________________________________________________________
AQUATHOL K*
Dipotassium salt of endothall                4.23 lb/gal           0.5/3.0
 
AQUATHOL GRANULAR*                                       
Dipotassium salt of endothall                  10.1%               0.5/3.0
 
HYDROTHOL 191**
Mono(N,N-dimethylalkylamine)salt                                  
  of endothall                                 53.0%               0.3/3.0
_______________________________________________________________________________
 *0.5 CONC/PPM - HUMAN AND ANIMAL DRINKING;  IRRIGATION OF TURF,  FOOD  CROPS, 
                 AND FORAGE:7 days; SWIMMING: 1 day; FISH CONSUMPTION: 3 days.  
  3.0 CONC/PPM - HUMAN AND ANIMAL DRINKING, IRRIGATION OF TURF, FOOD CROPS AND 
                 FORAGE: 14 days; SWIMMING: 1 day; FISH CONSUMPTION: 3 days.  
**0.3 CONC/PPM - HUMAN AND ANIMAL DRINKING; SWIMMING; IRRIGATION OF TURF, FOOD 
                 CROPS AND FORAGE: 7 DAYS; FISH CONSUMPTION: 3 days.  
  3.0 CONC/PPM - HUMAN AND ANIMAL DRINKING; SWIMMING; IRRIGATION OF TURF, FOOD 
                 CROPS AND FORAGE: 14 DAYS; FISH CONSUMPTION: 3 days.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
COMMON NAME                                  AMOUNT OF 	
CHEMICAL NAME                                   A.I.             CONC/PPM 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
HYDROTHOL 191 GRANULAR* 	
Mono(N,N-dimethylalkylamine)salt 	
  of endothall                                 11.2%              0.3/3.0 
 
RODEO**
Isopropylamine salt of glyphosate             53.8%
 
COPPER SULFATE**
Copper sulfate (Pentahydrate)                 99.0%
_______________________________________________________________________________
 *0.3 CONC/PPM - HUMAN AND ANIMAL DRINKING; SWIMMING; IRRIGATION OF TURF, FOOD 
                 CROPS AND FORAGE: 7 DAYS; FISH CONSUMPTION: 3 days.
 
 *3.0 CONC/PPM - HUMAN AND ANIMAL DRINKING; SWIMMING; IRRIGATION OF TURF, FOOD 
                 CROPS AND FORAGE: 14 DAYS; FISH CONSUMPTION: 3 days.
 
**HUMAN AND ANIMAL DRINKING; SWIMMING; FISH CONSUMPTION; IRRIGATION OF TURF, 
  FOOD CROPS AND FORAGE: 0 days.
_______________________________________________________________________________
COMMON NAME                                  AMOUNT OF
CHEMICAL NAME                                   A.I.              CONC/PPM
_______________________________________________________________________________
AQUAZINE*
Simazine:2-chloro-4,6-bis(ethylamino)-
  s-triazine                                   80.0%                 --
 
Sonar A.S., SRP, 5P**                      41.7% in A.S.
    fluridone methyl-3-phenyl-5-          5% in SRP or 5P            --
    [3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl]-4
    (1H)-pyridinone
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
 *HUMAN AND ANIMAL DRINKING;  IRRIGATION OF TURF, FOOD CROPS, AND FORAGE:  360 
  days.  SWIMMING AND FISH CONSUMPTION: 0 days.  
 
**HUMAN AND ANIMAL DRINKING; SWIMMING, FISH COMSUMPTION: 0 days.  IRRIGATION OF 
  TURF, FOOD CROPS AND FORAGE: 7 days.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN - MINIMUM TILLAGE - PREEMERGENCE HERBICIDE MIXTURES
-DOC-
CORN - MINIMUM TILLAGE - PREEMERGENCE HERBICIDE MIXTURES
_______________________________________________________________________________

Herbicides used for control of existing vegetation at  planting  are  generally 
applied  with  residual  herbicides to provide adequate weed control in minimum 
tillage cropping systems.  Recommended herbicide  mixtures  are  listed  below.
Refer  to  recommendations  under  CORN  -  PREEMERGENCE or CORN - PREEMERGENCE 
HERBICIDE MIXTURES for rates and other information.  Rates  are  generally  the 
same  for conventional or reduced tillage cropping systems.  However,  refer to 
the label prior to use.  

    l.  Tank mixtures with GRAMOXONE SUPER
    
    2.  Tank mixtures with ROUNDUP

    3.  Tank mixtures with BRONCO.
_______________________________________________________________________________
CORN - MINIMUM TILLAGE - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES WITH GRAMOXONE SUPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
    AATREX (80W, 4L, OR NINE-0)
    ATRAZINE (80W OR 4L)
    PRINCEP (80W, 4L, or CALIBER 90)
    AATREX (80W, 4L, or NINE-0) + PRINCEP 80W
    BLADEX (80W or 90DF)
    LASSO + AATREX (80W, 4L, or NINE-0) or ATRAZINE (80W or 4L)
    DUAL 8E + AATREX (80W, 4L, or 90DF) or ATRAZINE 4L
    DUAL 8E + BLADEX (80W, 4L, or 90DF)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - MINIMUM TILLAGE - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES WITH ROUNDUP
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    LASSO
    AATREX (80W, 4L, or NINE-0) or ATRAZINE 4L
    LASSO + AATREX (80W, 4L, or NINE-0) or ATRAZINE (80W OR 4L)
    AATREX (80W, 4L, or NINE-O) or ATRAZINE 80W or 4L) + PRINCEP (80W or 4L)
    DUAL 8E + AATREX (80W, 4L, or NINE-0), ATRAZINE 4L, or GRIFFEX 4L
    DUAL 8E + BLADEX (80W, 4L, or 90DF)
    LASSO + BLADEX (80W or 4L)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - MINIMUM TILLAGE - TANK MIXTURES WITH BRONCO
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    AATREX (4L, 80W, or NINE-0) or ATRAZINE (4L or 80W)
    BLADEX (4L, 80W, or 90DF)
    PRINCEP (4L, 80W, or CALIBER 90)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP              
-DOC-
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP              

The  following  treatments  are labeled for preemergence or early postemergence 
application.  Preemergence application is recommended since risk of  inadequate 
weed  control  is  greater if these treatments are applied early postemergence.
However,  if fields have not received a  preplant  or  preemergence  herbicide, 
these  treatments would be beneficial.  Refer to labels for specific directions 
for early postemergence applications.  

    LASSO + AATREX (80W, 4L, NINE-0), ATRAZINE (80W, 4L), or GRIFFEX 4L
    LASSO AND ATRAZINE
    DUAL + AATREX (80W, 4L, NINE-0), ATRAZINE (80W, 4L), or GRIFFEX 4L
    BICEP
    BICEP 6L
    PROWL + AATREX (80W, 4L, NINE-0), ATRAZINE (80W, 4L), or GRIFFEX 4L
    PROWL + BLADEX (80W FORMULATION ONLY)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
BANVEL                 4.0 lb/gal           0.5 pt                   0.25 

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds.  May be applied over-the- top until corn is 8 
inches  tall.  Apply  as  a directed spray if corn is taller than 8 inches.  Do 
not make more than  one  postemergence  application/season.  Prevent  drift  to 
susceptible    crops    such    as    tobacco,     soybeans,     and    cotton.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
2,4-D                3.8 or 4.0 lb/gal     0.5 to l.0 pt          0.24 to 0.50
(Several trade
names)

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds.  Corn is susceptible to injury  at  emergence 
and  shortly  after  unfolding  of  leaves.  Apply over-the-top to corn up to 8 
inches tall.  Apply as a directed spray if corn is taller  than  8  inches.  Do 
not  cultivate  for 10 days after application.  Several companies are marketing 
2,4-D--refer to individual product  labels  for  specific  directions.  Prevent 
drift  to  susceptible  crops such as cotton,  tobacco,  and soybeans.  Use the 
amine formulation and follow directions on the label to minimize  drift  hazard 
if sensitive crops are nearby.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP        
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
BANVEL                 4.0 lb/gal            0.5 pt                  0.25
  +                        +                  +                        +
2,4-D               3.8 to 4.0 lb/gal      0.5 to 1.0 pt           0.24 to 0.5 

REMARKS: Annual broadleaf weeds.  Please refer to comments for 2,4-D and Banvel 
alone.                                   
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP        
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC              AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
AATREX 80W  or       80% wettable powder   2.5 to 3.0 lb                    
ATRAZINE 80W
   or                                          or
AATREX 4L, ATRAZINE 4L,  4.0 lb/gal        2.0 to 2.4 qt           2.0 to 2.4
GRIFFEX 4L                 
   or                                          or
AATREX NINE-0         90% dispersible      2.2 to 2.6 lb
                         granule                            

REMARKS:  Some control of annual grasses,  good  control  of  annual  broadleaf 
weeds.  Apply  before  weeds  are  1.5  inches tall.  May be applied at reduced 
rates with oil--application with oil  usually  improves  control  of  large  or 
drought-stressed  weeds.  Follow  label  directions for crop rotation.  Several 
companies are marketing  atrazine--refer  to  label  for  specific  directions.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP        
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                       RECOMMENDED RATE
                                               FORMULATED
HERBICIDE                  FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
AATREX 80W, ATRAZINE 80W   80% wettable powder    l.5 lb       
       or                                          or
AATREX 4L, ATRAZINE 4L,     4.0 lb/gal            2.4 pt              l.2
       or                                          or
AATREX NINE-0              90% dispersible        l.3 lb
                             granule
  +
OIL

REMARKS:  Broadleaf weed control only at  these  reduced  rates.  Apply  before 
weeds  exceed  4  inches  in  height.  Add l.0 qt oil concentrate/ac for ground 
application.  Several companies are  marketing  atrazine--refer  to  label  for 
specific directions.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP        
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                       RECOMMENDED RATE
                                               FORMULATED
HERBICIDE                  FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
BASAGRAN               4.0 lb/gal          1.5 to 2.0 pt           0.75 to 1.0

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds,  yellow nutsedge--see label for maximum  weed 
heights.   Two   applications  may  be  needed  for  yellow  nutsedge  control.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
ME4 BROMINAL           4.0 lb/gal         0.5 to 0.75 pt  
  or                                          or                   0.25 to 0.38
BUCTRIL                2.0 lb/gal         1.0 to 1.5 pt                        

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds.  Apply to corn from the 3-leaf stage up to 14 
inches  tall  and  before  weeds  exceed 2 inches in height or the 2- to 4-leaf 
stage,  whichever occurs  first.  Do  not  apply  when  corn  foliage  is  wet.
Temporary  burning of corn foliage may occur,  but corn rapidly recovers and no 
effects on yield have been observed.  
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY                          
-DOC-
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY                          
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION          PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
________________________________________________________________________________
2,4-D               3.8 or 4.0 lb/gal       0.5 to 1.0 pt          0.24 to 0.5
(Several trade
names)
                                                                 
REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds.  Apply after corn exceeds 8 inches tall up to 
tasseling.  May  be applied with nitrogen solution after corn reaches 20 inches 
in height.  Do not cultivate for 10 days after application.  Several  companies 
are    marketing    2,4-D--refer    to    label    for   specific   directions.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY                          
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION          PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
________________________________________________________________________________
BANVEL                 4.0 lb/gal           0.5 pt                 0.25 

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds.  Apply after  corn  exceeds  8  inches  tall.
BANVEL  may  be  applied  until  corn is 36 inches tall or up to 15 days before 
tassel  emergence,  whichever  occurs first.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY                          
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION          PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
________________________________________________________________________________
BANVEL                 4.0 lb/gal           0.5 pt                 0.25
   +                     +                    +                     +
2,4-D                  3.8 or 4.0 lb/gal    0.5 to 1.0 pt          0.24 to 0.5

REMARKS: Annual broadleaf weeds.  Refer to comments for 2,4-D and BANVEL alone.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
*R GRAMOXONE SUPER     l.5 lb/gal           1.5 pt                 0.28

REMARKS:  Annual  grasses  and  broadleaf weeds less than 4 inches tall.  Apply 
after corn is at least 10 inches tall, and spray no higher than 3 inches on the 
corn  stalks.   Add  1.0  qt  Ortho  X-77  Spreader/100  gal  spray   solution.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
*R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.  
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY                          
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION          PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
________________________________________________________________________________
*R GRAMOXONE SUPER     l.5 lb/gal           1.5 pt                 0.28 
        +                                     +                      +  
AATREX 80W or      80% wettable powder      0.6 to 1.25 lb or      0.5 + 1.0 
AATREX 4L              4.0 lb/gal           1.0 to 2.0 pt           

REMARKS:  Annual  grasses  and  broadleaf weeds less than 4 inches tall.  Apply 
after corn is at least 10 inches tall, and spray no higher than 3 inches on the 
corn    stalks.    Add    surfactant    according    to    label    directions.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
*R  - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION          PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
________________________________________________________________________________
LOROX L, LINEX 4L      4.0 lb/gal           1.25 to 2.0 pt         0.6 to 1.0
    or                                           or
LOROX DF              50% dispersible       1.25 to 2.0 lb                 
                       granule

REMARKS:  Annual  grasses and broadleaf weeds.  Apply after corn is at least 15 
inches tall.  Use the low rate for weeds up to 2 inches tall and the high  rate 
for weeds up to 5 inches tall.  Add 1.0 pt Surfactant WK/25 gal spray solution.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
EVIK 80W              80% wettable powder   0.75 to 2.5 lb         0.6 to 2.0 
                                                                 
REMARKS:  Annual  grasses  and  broadleaf weeds less than 5 inches tall.  Apply 
after corn is at least 12 inches tall.  Add  1.0  pt  surfactant/25  gal  spray 
solution.     Do     not     apply     within    3    weeks    of    tasseling.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CORN - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION          PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
________________________________________________________________________________
AATREX 80W or          80% wettable powder  1.25 to 2.5 lb
  ATRAZINE 80W      
    or                                          or
AATREX 4L, ATRAZINE 4L  4.0 lb/gal          1.0 to 2.0 qt          1.0 to 2.0
    or                                          or
AATREX NINE-0          90% dispersible      1.1 to 2.2 lb
                        granule

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and weeds less than 1.5 inches tall.  Apply as a layby 
treatment  with  nitrogen solution to lower 3 to 4 inches of stalk when corn is 
20 to 30 inches  tall.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN - HARVEST AID                                                              
-DOC-
CORN - HARVEST AID                                                              
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION          PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________

2,4-D amine            3.8 lb/gal           1.0 to 2.0 pt          0.5 to 1.0
(FORMULA 40)                                                                 

REMARKS:  Preharvest control of cocklebur,  morningglory,  ragweed, jimsonweed.
Apply after the hard dough or denting stage.  Do  not  spray  corn  in  tassel.
Prevent  drift  to  susceptible  crops such as cotton,  tobacco,  and soybeans.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN - HERBICIDE INFORMATION
-DOC-
CORN - HERBICIDE INFORMATION

Herbicide information only.  For information only.  Use of trade names does not 
indicate  preferential  endorsement nor discrimination against similar products 
with different trade names.  

COMMON NAME         TRADE NAME            FORMULATION(S)         COMPANY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
alachlor            LASSO                   4.0 lb/gal           Monsanto
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
alachlor +          LASSO AND ATRAZINE      2.5 + 1.5 lb/gal     Monsanto
  atrazine                                                          
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ametryn             EVIK 80W              80% wettable powder    Ciba-Geigy
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
atrazine            AATREX 80W            80% wettable powder    Ciba-Geigy
                    AATREX 4L               4.0 lb/gal           Ciba-Geigy
                    AATREX NINE-0      90% dispersible granule   Ciba-Geigy
                    ATRAZINE 80W          80% wettable powder    DuPont
                    ATRAZINE 4L             4.0 lb/gal           DuPont, Ciba-
                                                                 Geigy
                    GRIFFEX 4L              4.0 lb/gal           Griffin
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - HERBICIDE INFORMATION

COMMON NAME         TRADE NAME            FORMULATION(S)         COMPANY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bentazon            BASAGRAN                4.0 lb/gal           BASF   
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
bromoxynil          ME4 BROMINAL            4.0 lb/gal           Rhone-Poulenc 
                    BUCTRIL                 2.0 lb/gal           Rhone-Poulenc
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
butylate + safener  SUTAN+ 6.7E             6.7 lb/gal           Stauffer
                    GENATE PLUS             6.7 lb/gal           PPG
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
butylate + safener  SUTAZINE+               4.8 + 1.2 lb/gal     Stauffer
 + atrazine         ATRABUTE+               4.8 + l.2 lb/gal     Griffin
                    ATRABUTE+ II            4.3 + l.7 lb/gal     Griffin
                    RHINO                   4.3 + l.7 lb/gal     PPG
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
cyanazine           BLADEX 80W            80% wettable powder    DuPont
                    BLADEX 4L               4.0 lb/gal           DuPont
                    BLADEX 90DF         90% dispersible granule  DuPont
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - HERBICIDE INFORMATION

COMMON NAME         TRADE NAME            FORMULATION(S)         COMPANY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
dicamba             BANVEL                  4.0 lb/gal           Sandoz
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
EPTC + safener      ERADICANE 6.7E          6.7 lb/gal           Stauffer
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EPTC + safener +    ERADICANE EXTRA         6.0 lb/gal           Stauffer
  + extender                                               
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate          ROUNDUP                 4.0 lb/gal           Monsanto
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate          BRONCO                1.4 + 2.6 lb/gal       Monsanto 
  + alachlor
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
linuron             LOROX L                4.0 lb/gal            DuPont
                    LOROX DF          50% dispersible granule    DuPont
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
metolachlor         DUAL 8E                8.0 lb/gal           Ciba-Geigy
                    DUAL 25G               25% granular         Ciba-Geigy
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN - HERBICIDE INFORMATION

COMMON NAME         TRADE NAME            FORMULATION(S)         COMPANY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
metolachlor         BICEP                 2.0 + 2.5 lb/gal      Ciba-Geigy
 + atrazine         BICEP 6L              3.3 + 2.7 lb/gal      Ciba-Geigy
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat            GRAMOXONE SUPER        l.5 lb/gal           ICI
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pendimethalin       PROWL                  4.0 lb/gal         American Cyanamid
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
simazine            PRINCEP 80W          80% wettable powder    Ciba-Geigy
                    PRINCEP 4L             4.0 lb/gal           Ciba-Geigy
                   PRINCEP CALIBER 90  90% dispersible granule  Ciba-Geigy
                    SIM-TROL 4L            4.0 lb/gal           Griffin
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2,4-D              FORMULA 40, WEEDAR,     3.8 to 4.0 lb/gal    Rhone-Poulenc
                   WEEDONE, DACAMINE,                           Fermenta, 
                   (Many others)                                others
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN INSECT CONTROL                               
-DOC-
                               CORN INSECT CONTROL
                      D.G. Manley, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Billbugs        R terbufos           8.16 oz/1000        1.0 - 2.0             
                    COUNTER 15G      row ft	
REMARKS:  Apply at planting in a 7-in band and incorporate lightly.  Can be 
placed directly in the seed furrow behind the planter shoe (1 lb ai/ac), or 
apply in a 7-in band over the row of seedling corn plants and lightly 
incorporate for a post-emergence treatment.	

Planting time or post-emergence.	 

                R carbofuran 	
                    FURADAN 15G      13.3 lb             2.0	
REMARKS:  Planting time application. The performance of Furadan in dry soils 
has been erratic.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Billbugs        FURADAN 4F           1-2 qt              1.0 - 2.0           30	
(cont)
REMARKS:  Apply as a spray treatment when billbugs attack the small corn. Apply 
as a 7-in band over the row using ground equipment (postemergence treatment).
	
Apply in a minimum of 10 gal water/ac. Do not make a foliar application if 
Furadan 10G was applied at more than 10 lb/ac at planting. Do not make more 
than one application/season.  This is a salvage treatment (24-C registration). 
	
                chlorpyrifos         8-16 oz/1,000       1.0 - 2.0	
                  LORSBAN 15G        row ft
REMARKS:  Apply in 4- to 7-in band behind planter shoe, in front of press 
wheel.	
	
Do not use in soils over 10% organic matter.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Billbugs        LORSBAN 4E           2-3 pt              1.0 - 1.5           50	
(cont)
REMARKS:  Postemergence treatment. Broadcast using ground equipment or 
aircraft.	
	
Do not apply more than 3 pt/season.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Wireworms       R carbofuran         6.7                 1.0	
                    FURADAN 15G	
REMARKS:  Apply in seed furrow or in a 7-in band and incorporate lightly.	 
	
Planting time application.	
	
                  diazinon 14G       21 lb               3.0                 10	
REMARKS:  Apply broadcast and mix into the soil immediately 7-15 days before 
planting.	 
	
Preharvest interval for feed or forage.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Wireworms       R fonofos                                4.0
(cont)              DYFONATE 10G     40 lb                                   45	
                    DYFONATE 20G     20 lb	
                    DYFONATE 4EC     4 qt	
REMARKS:  Same as diazinon.	
	
Preharvest interval for feeding or grazing livestock.	
	
                R fensulfothion      6.17 lb             2.0	
                    DASANIT 15G	      
REMARKS:  Apply in 4- to 6-in band behind planter shoe, in front of press 
wheel.  Planting time application.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Wireworms         chlorpyrifos       16 oz/1,000         2.0	
(cont)              LORSBAN 15G      row ft	
REMARKS:  Apply in a 6- to 7-in band behind planter shoe, in front of press 
wheel, or directly into furrow.	 
	
Planting time application.	
	
                R terbufos           8 oz/1,000          1.0	
                    COUNTER 15G      row ft   	
REMARKS:  Apply at planting in a 7-in band and incorporate lightly.  Can be 
placed directly in the seed furrow behind the planter shoe (1 lb ai/ac).	 
	
Planting time application.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Wireworms       R parathion 10G      20 lb               2.0                 12	
(cont)	
REMARKS:  Same as terbufos.	
	
Preharvest interval for forage or fodder.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
European        carbaryl                                 1.5                  0
corn borer        SEVIN 80%	
                   Sprayable         1.87 lb	
                  SEVIN 50W          3 lb	
                  SEVIMOL 4          1.5 qt	
                  SEVIN SL           1.5 qt	
REMARKS:  Early planting will help avoid problems with this insect.  Begin 
checking corn that is tasseling the latter part of June or later, and apply as 
soon as one egg mass/plant can be found.  A second application may be required 
about 10 days after the first if infestation is severe.	
	
No limitations.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
European corn     diazinon 14G       7-14 lb             1.0-2.0     0 (grain)	
borer (cont)                                                        10 (forage)	
REMARKS:  Apply into whorls.
	
Apply when 75% of plants show first generation feeding or one second generation 
egg mass/plant.	 
	
                R carbofuran         6.7 lb              1.0                  0	
                    FURADAN 15G	
	
REMARKS:  Same as diazinon.	
	
Do not make a foliar application if Furadan 15G was applied at more than 6.7 
lb/ac at planting. Do not make more than two foliar applications/season.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
European corn   R fenvalerate        5.3-10.6 oz         0.1-0.2             21	
borer (cont)        PYDRIN	
REMARKS:  Repeat as necessary for control of European corn borers and corn 
earworms.	 
	
Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/season.	
	
                  chlorpyrifos                           1.0                 35	
                    LORSBAN 4E       8 oz/1,000 row ft	
REMARKS:  Uniformly broadcast by air or apply granules into whorls by ground.	 
	
Do not exceed 16 oz/1,000 row ft/season.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
European corn   R permethrin                             0.1-0.2 	
borer (cont)        AMBUSH 2.0EC     2/5 - 4/5 pt	
                    POUNCE 3.2EC     1/4 - 1/2 pt	
REMARKS:  Apply before ear formation in minimum 1 gal finished spray/ac by air 
or 10 gal spray/ac by ground.	 
	
                R PENNCAP-M          2-4 pt              0.5-1.0             12	
REMARKS:  Do not apply during pollen shed if bees are active.	
	
                R phorate            5 lb                1.0                 30	
                    THIMET 20G	
REMARKS:  Broadcast granules into whorl before tassel emergence.	
	
Do not make more than one application over the plant.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Seed corn         chlorpyrifos       8 oz/1,000          1.0     
maggot              LORSBAN 15G      row ft	
REMARKS:  Apply directly behind the planter shoe into the seed furrow.
	
                R fonofos                                0.75	
                    DYFONATE 10G     7.5 lb/ac	
                    DYFONATE 20G     3.5 lb/ac	
REMARKS:  Apply in 6- to 8-in band ahead of the press wheel.	
	
                R carbofuran	
                    FURADAN 15G      6.7 lb/ac           1.0	
REMARKS:  Apply into seed in furrow.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Seed corn       R terbufos           8 oz/1,000          1.0	
maggot (cont)       COUNTER 15       row ft	
REMARKS:  Apply at planting directly in the seed furrow behind the planter 
shoe.	 
	
Planting time application.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Chinch bug        chlorpyrifos                           0.5-1.0             50	
                    LORSBAN 4E       1-2 pt	
REMARKS:  Postemergence treatment.	
	
Do not apply more than 3 pt/season.	
	
                R fenvalerate        5.3-10.6 oz         0.1-0.2             21	
                    PYDRIN         	
REMARKS:  Spray should be directed to the base of the plant. 	
	
Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Southern corn   R carbofuran         6.7 lb              1.0	
rootworn            FURADAN 15G	
REMARKS:  Apply in a 7-in band, centered over the row at planting, and 
incorporate lightly. Control of this insect is practical only where there is a 
history of economic losses due to its damage.	 
	
Planting time application.	
	
                  diazinon 14G       7 lb                1.0	
REMARKS:  Same as carbofuran.	
	
Planting time application.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Southern corn   R disulfoton         6.7 lb              1.0	
rootworm (cont)     DI-SYSTON 15G	
REMARKS:  Apply in 4- to 6-in band behind planter shoe, in front of press 
wheel.	 
	
Planting time application.	
	
                R fonofos                                1.0	
                    DYFONATE 10G     10 lb	
                    DYFONATE 20G     5 lb	
                    DYFONATE 4EC     1 qt	
REMARKS:  Apply in 6- to 8-in band ahead of press wheel.	
	
Planting time application.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Southern corn   R isofenphos         1.6 oz/1,000        1.0	
rootworm (cont)     AMAZE 6          row ft	
                    AMAZE 20G        6 oz/1,000          1.0	
                                     row ft	
REMARKS:  Apply in a 7-in band behind planter shoe, in front of press wheel.	 
	
Planting time application.	
	
                R phorate            6 oz/1,000          1.0	
                    THIMET 20G       row ft	
REMARKS:  Same as isofenphos, or apply granules at time of cultivation in a 
band at base of plants just ahead of cultivator shovels so as to cover granules 
with soil.	 
	
Planting time cultivation.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Southern corn   R terbufos           8 oz/1,000          1.0	
rootworm (cont)     COUNTER 15G      row ft	
REMARKS:  Same as isofenphos, or apply granules to base of plants or over the 
top of plants just ahead of cultivator shovels at time of cultivation.	 
	
Planting time or at cultivation.	
	
                  chlorpyrifos       8 oz/1,000          1.0	
                    LORSBAN 15G        row ft	
REMARKS:  Apply in a 6- to 7-in band behind planter shoe, in front of press 
wheel.	 
	
Planting time application.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Cutworms        diazinon 14G         7 lb                1.0                 10	
REMARKS:  Apply in a 7-in band at the base of small plants at first sign of 
damage.	 
	
Preharvest interval for feed or forage.	
	
                trichlorfon                              1.0                  0	
                  DYLOX 80% SP       20 oz    	
                  DYLOX 4E           1 qt	
REMARKS:  For early application, direct spray to the lower portions of plants 
and to soil around base of plant.	 
 	
Three applications/season may be made.  Use a min of 1 gal water/ac.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Cutworms        chlorpyrifos         8 oz/1,000          1.0    	
(cont)            LORSBAN 15G        row ft	
REMARKS:  Apply at planting in a 6- to 7-in band.	
	
For control of low to moderate infestations. One application/season.	 
	
                  LORSBAN 4E         2-3 pt              1.0-1.5	
REMARKS:  Apply broadcast in sufficient water for coverage using aerial or 
ground equipment.	 
	
This is a rescue treatment.
_______________________________________________________________________________	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Cutworms        R PENNCAP-M          4 pt                1.0                 12
(cont)  	
REMARKS:  Apply broadcast in sufficient water for coverage using aerial or 
ground equipment.	 
	
For best control, apply under moist soil conditions.	
	
                R fenvalerate        5.3-10.6 oz         0.1-0.2             21	
                    PYDRIN     	
REMARKS:  Apply broadcast to foliage.	
	
Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/season.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Cutworms        R carbofuran	
(cont)              FURADAN 15G      6.7 lb/ac           1.0	
REMARKS:  Apply in a 7-in band or in furrow	
	
                R permethrin                             0.1-0.2	
                    AMBUSH 2.0EC     2/5-4/5 pt
                    POUNCE 3.2EC     1/2-1 pt	
REMARKS:  Apply before ear formation in minimum 1 gal finished spray/ac by air 
or 10 gal spray/ac by ground.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Whorl feeding   carbaryl                                 2.0                  0	
caterpillars      SEVIN 80%                	
                   sprayable         2.5 lb	
                  SEVIN 50W          4 lb  	
                  SEVIMOL 4          2 qt	
                  SEVIN SL           2 qt	
REMARKS:   Control is not usually economically feasible unless there is a 
danger of losing more than 10% of the buds before tasseling. Apply insecticide 
as a coarse spray in 15 gal or more total spray/ac or as granules.  Apply 
either formulation directly into the whorl. High clearance ground equipment 
gives better coverage of sprays into the whorl.	 
	
No limitations.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE              PRODUCT/AC        LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Whorl feeding   R methomyl                               0.45                14	
caterpillars        LANNATE L- 	        
(cont)              NUDRIN 1.8         1 qt	
                    LANNATE-NUDRIN 90  0.5 lb	
REMARKS:  Control is not usually economically feasible unless there is a danger 
of losing more than 10% of the buds before tasseling. Apply insecticide as a 
coarse spray in 15 gal or more total spray/ac or as granules. Apply either 
formulation directly into the whorl. High clearance ground equipment gives 
better coverage of sprays into the whorl.	 
	
                    PENNCAP-M          2-4 pt            0.5-1.0             12	
REMARKS:  Do not apply during pollen shed if bees are active. Corn earworm 
only.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Whorl feeding   R fenvalerate        5.3-10.6 oz         0.1-0.2             21	
caterpillars        PYDRIN	
(cont)	
REMARKS:  For control of corn earworm.  Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/season.	
	
                R parathion 8EC      0.5 pt              0.50                12	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Armyworms       carbaryl                                 1.0-2.0              0	
                  SEVIN 80%          1.25-2.5 lb	
                    sprayable	
                   SEVIN 50W         2-4 lb	
                   SEVIMOL 4         1-2 qt	
                   SEVIN SL          1-2 qt	
REMARKS:  Use lower rate on small corn. Occasionally the "true" armyworm is 
present in large enough numbers to strip corn of its foliage. Apply insecticide 
to entire plant if good control is to be obtained.	 
	
No limitations.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Armyworms         chlorpyrifos       1-2 pt              0.5-1.0             50	
(cont)              LORSBAN 4E	
REMARKS:  Same as carbaryl.  No not apply more than 3 pt/season.	
	
                R carbofuran	
                    FURADAN 15G      6.7 lb/ac           1.0	
REMARKS:  Apply as 7-in band or in furrow.	
	
                R methomyl                               0.34-0.45            3	
                    LANNATE-NUDRIN 1.8  1.5-2 pt	
                    LANNATE-NUDRIN 90   0.38-0.5 lb	
REMARKS:  Same as carbaryl.  No limitations.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Armyworms       R permethrin                             0.1-0.2	
(cont)              AMBUSH 2.0EC     2/5-4/5 pt	
                    POUNCE 3.2EC     1/4-1/2 pt	
REMARKS:  Apply before ear formation in minimum 1 gal finished spray/ac by air 
or 10 gal spray/ac by ground.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Lesser          chlorpyrifos         8-16 oz/             1.0-2.0            50	
cornstalk         LORSBAN 15 G       1,000 row ft	
borer	
REMARKS:  Apply in a 6- to 7-in band behind planter shoe in front of press 
wheel.	 
	
Planting time application.	
	
                chlorpyrifos                             1.0-1.5             50	
                  LORSBAN 4E         2-3 pt	
REMARKS:  Postemergence treatment.  Do not apply more than 3 pt/season.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COTTON WEED CONTROL                              
-DOC-
                              COTTON WEED CONTROL
        E. C. Murdock, Extension Weed Scientist, L. H. Harvey, Extension 
               Agronomist,  and B. J. Gossett, Research Agronomist
 
 READ THE HERBICIDE LABEL BEFORE USE

 Rates given for preplant incorporated and preemergence treatments are for 
 COARSE- to MEDIMUM-TEXTURED SOILS.
 COTTON - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 TREFLAN E.C.,     4.0 lb/gal               l.0 to 2.0 pt          0.5 to l.0
 TRILIN                                           or                  or
                                            2.0 to 3.0 pt          l.0 to l.5

 REMARKS:  Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  For better control of 
 pigweed,  use  1.5  pt/ac  on  coarse-textured  soils and 2.0 pt/ac on medium-
 textured soils.  Use 2.0 to 3.0 pt/ac for rhizome  johnsongrass  control.  For 
 best  results,  incorporate  to a depth of 2 to 3 in as soon as possible after 
 application.  TREFLAN or TRILIN must be incorporated one  time  within  24  hr 
 after  application.  Cross  disc  for  best  results.  If  applied  in  bedded 
 culture,  the bedding operation may serve as the second incorporation.  In the 
 season  following  a double rate treatment for johnsongrass control plant only 
 those crops for  which  TREFLAN  or  TRILIN  can  be  applied  as  a  preplant 
 treatment.  
 ______________________________________________________________________________
 COTTON - PREPLANT INCORPORATED 
 ______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 PROWL             4.0 lb/gal               1.0 to 2.0 pt          0.5 to 1.0 
                                                   or                 or
                                            2.0 to 3.0 pt          l.0 to l.5
 
 REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Use  high  rate  for 
 better  control  of  pigweed.  Use  2.0  to 3.0 pt/ac for rhizome johnsongrass 
 control.  Incorporate to a depth  of  1  to  2  inches  within  7  days  after 
 application.  Cross  disc  for  best  results.  May  be  applied up to 60 days 
 before planting.  Wheat and barley may be planted l20 days  after  application 
 of  PROWL  at  normal use rates.  Do not feed forage or graze livestock for 75 
 days after planting wheat or barley or treated land.  Where high rates (2.0 to 
 3.0 pt/ac) are used for  johnsongrass  control  wheat  and  barley  cannot  be 
 planted.             
 ______________________________________________________________________________ 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COTTON -  PREEMERGENCE  
-DOC-
 COTTON -  PREEMERGENCE 
 ______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC)
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 KARMEX or         80% wettable powder      0.66 to l.0 lb or   
                                                                  0.53 to 0.8
 DIREX 4L          4.0 lb/gal               1.0 to 1.5 pt
 
 REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds.  Drought after application  will 
 reduce effectiveness.  Do not use on sands or on other soils with less than 1% 
 organic  matter.  Refer  to label for rotation restrictions.  If stand failure 
 occurs, rework soil and replant only to cotton.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON - PREEMERGENCE
 ______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC)
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTORAN 80W or    80% wettable powder      l.25 to 2.5 lb or  
                                                                  l.0 to 2.0
 COTORAN 4L,        4.0 lb/gal              l.0 to 2.0 qt                    
 METURON 4L           

 REMARKS:  Annual grasses and  broadleaf  weeds.  COTORAN  or  METURON  may  be 
 applied  with  nitrogen  solutions.  Drought  after  application  will  reduce 
 effectiveness.  Some injury to cotton may result when used following  the  use 
 of  systemic  insecticides at planting.  If stand failure occurs,  rework soil 
 and replant only to cotton.  Do not plant crops other than cotton within 6  mo 
 after application. 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON - PREEMERGENCE
 ______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC)
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 ZORIAL RAPID 80   80% dry flowable         1.25 to 1.9 lb        1.0 to 1.5
 
 REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  some broadleaf weeds.  Recommended in fields  where 
 velvetleaf,  spotted spurge,  or spurred anoda are a problem.  ZORIAL may also 
 be applied as a preplant incorporated or split application for better or  more 
 consistent  control  of  some  weeds;  see label for directions.  For one year 
 following  application,  treated  acreage  may  only  be  rotated  to  cotton, 
 soybeans,  or  peanuts.  Peanuts  may be planted as a replacement crop 30 days 
 after application.  Cover crops planted after harvest should be  plowed  under 
 and not grazed or harvested.  
 ______________________________________________________________________________
 COTTON - PREEMERGENCE
 ______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC)
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 ZORIAL RAPID 80   80% dry flowable         1.25 to 1.9 lb        1.0 to 1.5 
     +                                           +                    +
 COTORAN 80W or    80% wettable powder      1.25 to 2.5 lb or     1.0 to 2.0 
 COTORAN 4L             4.0 lb/gal           1.0 to 2.0 qt
 
 REMARKS:  Annual  grasses,  some broadleaf weeds.  Recommended in fields where 
 velvetleaf,  spotted spurge,  or spurred anoda are a problem.  The addition of 
 COTORAN will improve control of broadleaf weeds such as pigweed, morningglory, 
 cocklebur, tropic croton, sicklepod, and coffee senna.  
 ______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP 
-DOC-
 COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
 ______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 DSMA LIQUID       2.26 lb/gal              3.0 to 4.0 pt         0.85 to 1.13
           (3.6 lb DSMA hexahydrate/gal)
 
 REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  some broadleaf weeds.  This product is labeled  for 
 over-the-top   use  on  cotton.   Do  not  make  more  than  one  over-the-top 
 application.  Apply when cotton is 3 to 6 in tall or up to early first  square 
 stage,  whichever  occurs  first.  DO NOT APPLY AFTER COTTON IS MORE THAN 6 IN 
 TALL OR AFTER FIRST-SQUARE  STAGE.  SHOULD  BE  USED  OVER-THE-TOP  ONLY  WHEN 
 DIRECTED  SPRAYS  WOULD NOT BE EFFECTIVE.  Do not store spray solution in tank 
 overnight. 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
 ______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 BUENO 6           6.0 lb/gal               1.0 to 1.33 pt         0.75 to 1.0 
 
 REMARKS:        Same as DSMA. 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
 ______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 POAST             1.5 lb/gal               1.0 to 1.5 pt         0.19 to 0.28 
 
 REMARKS:  Annual and perennial grasses.  See label for recommended  stages  of 
 growth.  Use  1  pt/ac for control of seedling annual grasses.  For control of 
 common bermudagrass or johnsongrass, apply 1.5 pt/ac; if regrowth occurs, make 
 a subsequent application at 1.0 pt/ac.  Apply  to  actively  growing  grasses.
 Apply in a minimum of 5 gal and a maximum of 20 gal of water/ac with a minimum 
 of  40  psi  pressure at the nozzle.  If applied with aerial equipment,  use a 
 minimum of 5 gal of water/ac.  Add a  nonphytotoxic  oil  concentrate  to  the 
 spray solution at 2 pt/ac.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
 ______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 FUSILADE 2000     1.0 lb/gal               0.75 to 1.5 pt        0.09 to 0.19 
 
 REMARKS:  Annual  and  perennial grasses.  See label for recommended stages of 
 growth.  Apply to actively growing grasses.  Apply in  a  minimum  of  10  gal 
 water/ac;  use a minimum of 30 psi pressure.  Add crop oil concentrate at 1 qt 
 or nonionic surfactant at 0.5 pt/25 gal spray solution.  Two applications  may 
 be  needed  for  control  of johnsongrass or bermudagrass.  Refer to label for 
 specific directions for control of these perennial grasses.  Do not  apply  to 
 cotton after boll set.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COTTON -  POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY 
-DOC-
 COTTON -  POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI(LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 DSMA               2.26 lb/gal             l.0 gal                 2.26
 (several      (3.6 lb DSMA hexahydrate/gal)
 trade names)
 
 REMARKS:   Annual grasses and some broadleaf weeds less than 2 in tall, 
 nutsedge.  Apply as a directed spray after cotton is at least 3 in high.  Two 
 applications needed for nutsedge control. DO NOT USE AFTER FIRST BLOOM OPENS 
 SINCE DELAYED MATURITY AND REDUCED YIELDS MAY RESULT.  Refer to label for 
 directions concerning surfactant use. 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 MSMA               4.0 lb/gal or          0.5 gal or                2.0
 (several           6.0 lb/gal             0.33 gal 
 trade names)

 REMARKS:  Same as DSMA.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON -  POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI(LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTORAN 80W       80% wettable powder      l.25 lb
    or                                         or                     l.0
 COTORAN 4L, METURON 4L  4.0 lb/gal         l.0 qt
     +                                        +                        +
 DSMA              2.26 lb/gal              l.0 gal                   2.26
 (several trade    (3.6 lb DSMA 
  names)           hexahydrate/gal)
    or                                         or                      or
 MSMA              4.0 lb/gal or            0.5 gal or                2.0
 (Several trade    6.0 lb/gal               0.33 gal
  names)
 REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds, nutsedge.  Apply as a directed 
 spray to cotton at least 3 in tall up to first bloom. DO NOT USE AFTER FIRST 
 BLOOM OPENS.  Add surfactant according to label directions.  Do not plant to 
 any crop other than cotton within 6 mo after application.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON -  POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI(LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 PROBE          75% dispersible granule     0.66 to 2.0 lb         0.5 to l.5 
 
 REMARKS: Annual broadleaf weeds.  Apply as a directed spray after cotton is at 
 least 3 inches tall and before weeds exceed 2 inches in height.  Do not exceed 
 1.0 lb PROBE/ac on cotton less than 6 in tall.  Add  surfactant  according  to 
 label  directions.  Do  not  rotate  with  any  other  crop within one year of 
 treatment. 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON -  POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI(LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 PROBE         75% dispersible granule      0.66 to 2.0 lb         0.5 to l.5
    +                                             +                    +
 DSMA              2.26 lb/gal              l.0 gal                2.26
 (several trade  (3.6 lb DMSA hexahydrate/gal)  or                   or
 names)
    or                                           
  MSMA             4.0 lb/gal or            0.5 gal or             2.0
 (several trade    6.0 lb/gal                0.33 gal
  names)
 
 REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds, nutsedge.  Apply after cotton is 
 at  least  3  in  tall  and  before  first  bloom.  Do  not make more than two 
 applications.  Add surfactant according to label  directions.  Do  not  rotate 
 with any other crop within one year of treatment.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON -  POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI(LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 R BLADEX 80W or   80% wettable powder      0.75 to 1.25 lb or
   BLADEX 4L or    4.0 lb/gal               0.6 to 1.0 qt or      0.6 to 1.0 
   BLADEX 90DF     90% dispersible granule  0.7 to 1.1 lb  
    +    
 surfactant
 
 REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds.  Apply 
 as a directed spray after cotton is at least 6 in tall and before weeds 
 exceed 2 in tall.  Minimize contact with the cotton leaves.  Add 1 to 2 qt 
 surfactant/100 gal spray solution.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
 COTTON -  POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI(LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 KARMEX or       80% wettable powder        0.38 lb or              0.3     
 
 DIREX 4L          4.0 lb/gal               0.6 pt
   +
 surfactant
 
 REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds.  Apply as a directed spray after 
 cotton is 6 in tall.  Add 1 pt surfactant/25 gal spray solution.  Follow label 
 directions for crop rotation.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON -  POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI(LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 CAPAROL 4L or     4.0 lb/gal               1.0 to 1.33 pt         0.5 to 0.67
 COTTON-PRO
  +
 surfactant
 
 REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds.  Apply as a directed spray after 
 cotton is at least 6 inches tall and before weeds exceed 2 inches  in  height.
 Small grains planted in the fall must be plowed under and not used for food or 
 feed.  Add 1 pt surfactant/25 gal spray solution.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON -  POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI(LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 R BLADEX 80W or   80% wettable powder      0.75 to 1.25 lb or       
   BLADEX 4L or    4.0 lb/gal               0.6 to 1.0 qt  or      0.6 to l.0
   BLADEX 90DF   90% dispersible granule    0.7 to 1.1 lb
   +                                             +                      +
 MSMA              4.0 lb/gal or              0.5 gal or               2.0 
 (Several          6.0 lb/gal                 0.33 gal
 trade names)
 
 REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds,  nutsedge.  Apply as a  directed 
 spray after cotton is at least 6 inches tall and before weeds exceed 2 inches.
 Minimize  contact  with  cotton leaves to prevent crop injury.  Add surfactant 
 according to label directions.  DO NOT APPLY AFTER FIRST BLOOM.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
 COTTON -  POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI(LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 KARMEX          80% wettable powder        0.38 lb                 0.3 
   +                                          +                      + 
 DSMA
 (several        2.26 lb/gal                1.0 gal                 2.26 
 trade names)   (3.6 lb DSMA hexahydrate/gal)
 
 REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds,  nutsedge.  Apply as a  directed 
 spray  after cotton is 6 inches tall up to first bloom and before weeds exceed 
 2 inches in height.  DO NOT APPLY AFTER FIRST BLOOM.  Add surfactant according 
 to label directions.  Follow label directions for crop rotation.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON -  POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI(LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 CAPAROL or        4.0 lb/gal               1.0 to 1.3 pt          0.5 to 0.67 
 COTTON-PRO
     +                                           +                      +
 DSMA              2.26 lb/gal              1.0 gal                   2.26 
 (several     (3.6 lb DSMA hexahydrate/gal)
 trade names)
  or                                          or                       or
 MSMA              4.0 lb/gal or            0.5 gal or                 2.0 
 (several          6.0 lb/gal               0.33 gal
 trade names)
 
 REMARKS:  Annual  grasses and broadleaf weeds,  nutsedge.  Apply as a directed 
 spray after cotton is at least 6 inches tall and before weeds exceed 2  inches 
 in  height.  DO NOT APPLY AFTER FIRST BLOOM.  Small grains planted in the fall 
 must be plowed under and not used for food or feed.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY-LAYBY 
-DOC-
 COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY-LAYBY
 ____________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 KARMEX or         80% wettable powder      1.0 lb or                 
                                                                   0.8
 DIREX 4L          4.0 lb/gal               1.0 pt
 
 REMARKS:  Preemergence control of some annual grasses and broadleaf weeds  and 
 postemergence  control  of weeds less than 4 inches tall.  Apply as a directed 
 spray after cotton reaches at least 12 inches  in  height  and  before  cotton 
 plants  meet  in  row  middles.  If  emerged  weeds  are  present,  add  1  pt 
 surfactant/25 gal spray solution.  Cotton,  corn,  or  grain  sorghum  may  be 
 planted  the  next  spring.  Do  not  replant  treated areas to any other crop 
 within 1 yr after application.  Do not plant fall-seeded crops following  use.
 Do not plant tobacco the following yr.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY-LAYBY
 ____________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 LOROX DF or       50% dispersible granule  2.0 lb or              l.0
 
 LOROX L, LINEX 4L 4.0 lb/gal               l.0 qt

 REMARKS:  Preemergence  control of some annual grasses and broadleaf weeds and 
 postemergence control of weeds less than 2 inches tall.  Apply as  a  directed 
 spray  when  cotton  is  at least 20 inches tall and before plants meet in row 
 middles.  If emerged weeds are present,  add  1  pt  surfactant/25  gal  spray 
 solution.  Do not plant any crop within 4 mo after treatment.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY-LAYBY
 ____________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 R BLADEX 80W or   80% wettable powder      1.0 lb or             
   BLADEX 4L or    4.0 lb/gal               0.8 qt or              0.8
   BLADEX 90DF     90% dispersible granule  0.9 lb
 
 REMARKS:  Preemergence control of some annual grasses and broadleaf weeds plus 
 postemergence control of weeds up to 2 inches tall.  Apply as a directed spray 
 after  cotton  is at least 12 inches tall.  If emerged weeds are present,  add 
 surfactant according to label directions.  When BLADEX is  used  as  directed, 
 there  is  no herbicide carryover to interfere with succeeding crops,  and the 
 user can rotate from cotton to other crops.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
 COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY-LAYBY
 ____________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
 HERBICIDE         FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 PROBE         75% dispersible granule      2.0 lb                 1.5
 
 REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds.  Apply  at  layby  before  weeds 
 exceed  3 inches in height.  Add surfactant according to label directions.  Do 
 not rotate to any other crops within one year of treatment.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE (LATE-SEASON SALVAGE) 
-DOC-
 COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE (LATE-SEASON SALVAGE)
 
 HERBICIDE          MIXING INSTRUCTIONS
 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 ROUNDUP           Recirculating sprayers -- Mix 3 qt ROUNDUP/20 gal water.
 4.0 lb/gal
                   Roller applicators -- Mix 1 gal ROUNDUP/9 gal water.

                   Wick or other wiper -- Mix 1 gal ROUNDUP/2 gal water.
                   applicators

 REMARKS:  Roundup  may  be  applied  with  recirculating  sprayers  and  wiper 
 applicators  (rope  wicks,  rollers)  for late-season control of johnsongrass.
 Adjust equipment so that the lowest spray stream or wiper contact is at  least 
 2  inches  above  the  crop.  Weeds  must be AT LEAST 6 INCHES above the crop.
 Weeds not contacted by the herbicide solution  will  not  be  affected.  AVOID 
 CONTACT WITH THE CROP.  Do not operate equipment at ground speeds greater than 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON - POSTEMERGENCE (LATE-SEASON SALVAGE)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 ROUNDUP (continued)
 
 5  mph.  As weed density increases,  reduce speed to ensure good coverage.  Do 
 not use wiper equipment when weeds are wet.  With  wiper  applicators,  better 
 results  may  be obtained if two applications are made in opposite directions.
 Refer to the ROUNDUP label for more  complete  directions.  NOTE:  ROUNDUP  is 
 also  labeled  for  spot  treatment in cotton.  Use a 1 to 2% solution.  Apply 
 before bolls open.  THE CROP RECEIVING SPRAY IN TREATED AREA WILL  BE  KILLED.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COTTON - HERBICIDE INFORMATION 
-DOC-
 COTTON - HERBICIDE INFORMATION

 Herbicide Information.  For information only.  Use of  trade  names  does  not 
 indicate  preferential endorsement nor discrimination against similar products 
 with different trade names.
 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COMMON NAME      TRADE NAME(S)     FORMULATION(S)            COMPANY 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 cyanazine        BLADEX 80W         80% wettable powder       DuPont 
                  BLADEX 4L          4.0 lb/gal                DuPont
                  BLADEX 90DF        90% dispersible granule   DuPont
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 diuron           DIREX 4L           4.0 lb/gal                Griffin
                  KARMEX             80% wettable powder       DuPont
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 DSMA             DSMA LIQUID        2.26 lb/gal               Fermenta,
                  (many others)                                others
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON - HERBICIDE INFORMATION
 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COMMON NAME      TRADE NAME(S)     FORMULATION(S)            COMPANY 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 fluometuron      COTORAN 80W        80% wettable powder       Ciba-Geigy
                  COTORAN 4L         4.0 lb/gal                Ciba-Geigy
                  METURON 4L         4.0 lb/gal                Griffin
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 glyphosate       ROUNDUP            4.0 lb/gal                Monsanto
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 linuron          LOROX DF           50% dispersible granule   DuPont
                  LOROX L            4.0 lb/gal                DuPont
                  LINEX 4L           4.0 lb/gal                Griffin
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 methazole        PROBE              75% dispersible granule   Sandoz
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 MSMA             BUENO 6            6.0 lb/gal                Fermenta,
                  (many others)                                others
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 norflurazon      ZORIAL RAPID 80    80% dry flowable          Sandoz
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COTTON - HERBICIDE INFORMATION
 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 COMMON NAME      TRADE NAME(S)     FORMULATION(S)            COMPANY 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 pendimethalin    PROWL              4.0 lb/gal                American 
                                                               Cyanamid
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 prometryn        CAPAROL 4L         4.0 lb/gal                Ciba-Geigy
                  COTTON-PRO         4.0 lb/gal                Griffin
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 trifluralin      TREFLAN E.C.       4.0 lb/gal                Elanco
                  TRILIN             4.0 lb/gal                Griffin
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COTTON GROWTH REGULATORS                            
-DOC-
                            COTTON GROWTH REGULATORS
                    Lawrence H. Harvey, Extension Agronomist

 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
GROWTH                                       FORMULATED
REGULATOR          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PIX                0.35 lb/gal              l.0 pt or              0.044
                                            0.5 to l.0 pt or     0.022 to 0.044
                                            0.l25 to l.0 pt      0.005 to 0.044

REMARKS:  Consider use when the following conditions exist.
* Experience has shown excessive vegetative growth to be a problem in the field 
being evaluated.  

* Cotton is growing rapidly at the appropriate  time  for  application  and  no 
stress  of  cotton  plants  is  present.  (Use of PIX when stress from insects, 
spider mites, moisture deficiency,  nutrient deficiency,  herbicide injury,  or 
other causes may result in a yield decrease.) 

* Cotton is grown under irrigation and stress is not present.  
COTTON GROWTH REGULATORS (continued)

* Application:
  Option  l:  Apply  l.0  pt/ac when cotton is in the early bloom stage (5 to 6 
  white blooms/25 row ft) and an average of 24 inches tall.  
  Option 2:  Apply 0.5 pt/ac at the growth stage described for option l  and  a 
  second application of 0.5 pt/ac 2 to 4 wks later or when regrowth occurs.  
  Option 3:  Apply 0.l3 to 0.25 pt/ac at match-head  square  stage.  If  growth 
  conditions warrant, up to 3 additional applications of 0.l3 to 0.25 pt/ac may 
  be made at 7 to l4 day intervals.  

*  Apply  in  a minimum of 20 gal of water/ac with ground equipment or not less 
than 5 gal/ac with aerial equipment.  

* Do not tank mix with any products other than insecticides or miticides unless 
recommended on the PIX label.  

*  Follow all directions on the PIX label.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COTTON DEFOLIATION                               
-DOC-
                               COTTON DEFOLIATION
                    Lawrence H. Harvey, Extension Agronomist

 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
DEFOLIANT          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DEF 6              6.0 lb/gal               l.33 to 2.0 pt         l.0 to l.5

REMARKS:  Thorough coverage is essential for complete defoliation.  Use 5 to l0 
gal  by  air  and l5 to 25 gal by ground of spray solution/ac.  The presence of 
rain or dew during or after application will not  reduce  effectiveness.  Night 
temperatures  below  60 degrees F may slow defoliation or reduce effectiveness.
The label permits the use of diesel oil to increase  effectiveness  when  night 
temperatures  drop  below  60  degrees  F.  Avoid  spray  drift to other crops.
Follow all label directions.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
COTTON DEFOLIATION
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
DEFOLIANT          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DROPP              50% wettable powder      0.2 to 0.4 lb          0.l to 0.2

REMARKS:  Thorough coverage is essential for complete defoliation.  Apply 2  to 
10  gal by air or l0 to 25 gal by ground of spray solution/ac.  Apply to mature 
cotton when at least 70% or more of the bolls are open.  DROPP reduces regrowth 
for up  to  3  wk  after  application.  Do  not  use  when  the  average  24-hr 
temperature  is  expected  to  be  below  70  degrees  F  for 2 or 3 days after 
application because defoliation may be reduced.  Rainfall within  24  hr  after 
application  may  reduce effectiveness.  Avoid spray drift to other crops.  Use 
only freshly prepared sprays.  Do not store  spray  mixture  overnight.  Follow 
label directions on planting other crops after cotton.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
COTTON DEFOLIATION
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
DEFOLIANT          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FOLEX              6.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt          l.l3 to l.5

REMARKS:  Thorough coverage is essential for complete defoliation.  Use 5 to l2 
gal by air or l5 to 25 gal by  ground  of  spray  solution/ac.  Rain  following 
application  usually  will not reduce effectivess.  Night temperatures below 55 
degrees F may slow defoliation or reduce effectiveness.  The label  allows  the 
use  of white diesel oil instead of water when night temperatures drop below 55 
degrees F.  Follow label directions.  Avoid spray drift to other crops.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
COTTON DEFOLIATION
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
DEFOLIANT          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
HARVADE-5F         5.0 lb/gal               0.5 pt                 0.3l

REMARKS:  HARVADE must be used with l pt/ac of an oil-based surfactant such  as 
Miller-Aid,  MorAct,  Western Farm Defoliant Spreader Sticker,  Agridex,  Prime 
Oil, Super Oil,  or Surf Oil.  Apply to mature plants when 70% of the bolls are 
open.   Do  not  plant  rotational  crops  within  6  mo  after  use.   Partial 
defoliation  will  most  likely  occur  with  one  or  more  of  the  following 
conditions:  rank  growth  and  dense  foliage,  bolls are not 70% open,  night 
temperatures are below 55 degrees F for 3 or 4 nights  after  application,  and 
rainfall  occurs  within  6 hr after application.  Do not permit spray drift to 
other crops.  See label for complete directions and precautions.  If leaves are 
actively growing (juvenile foliage is present), do not use this product.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
COTTON DEFOLIATION
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
DEFOLIANT          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DEF 6              6.0 lb/gal               l.0 pt                 0.75
 +                                            +                     +
DROPP              50% wettable powder      0.l lb                 0.05

REMARKS:  Best activity will be obtained when the tank mix is applied to mature 
cotton plants with 60% or more of the bolls open and  when  the  average  24-hr 
temperature  before  and  after  application is above 60 degrees F.  Do not use 
adjuvants or higher than labeled rates of either product since desiccation  may 
occur.  Do  not  apply  in  oil.  Follow  all  label  directions for mixing and 
application  of  the  tank-mix  combination.  The  following  mixing  order  is 
suggested: (l) water, (2) DROPP according to directions on the DROPP label, and 
(3) DEF after DROPP has completely dispersed.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
COTTON DEFOLIATION
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
DEFOLIANT          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FOLEX              6.0 lb/gal               l.0 pt                 0.75
 +                                            +                      +
DROPP              50% wettable powder      0.l lb                 0.05

REMARKS:  Best activity will be obtained when the tank mix is applied to mature 
cotton plants with 60% or more of the bolls open and minimum night  temperature 
is above 65 degrees F.  The following mixing order is suggested: (l) water, (2) 
DROPP according to directions on the DROPP label, and (3) FOLEX after DROPP has 
completely dispersed.  Do not add adjuvants, other products, or use higher than 
labeled  rates  as  desiccation or mixing problems may occur.  Follow all label 
directions.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COTTON - DEFOLIANT AND GROWTH REGULATOR INFORMATION              
-DOC-
              COTTON - DEFOLIANT AND GROWTH REGULATOR INFORMATION

For information only.  Use  of  trade  names  does  not  indicate  preferential 
endorsement  nor  discrimination  against similar products with different trade 
names.  

COMMON NAME          TRADE NAME(S)        FORMULATION(S)       COMPANY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
none assigned         DEF 6               6.0 lb/gal           MOBAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
merphos               FOLEX               6.0 lb/gal           RHONE-POULENC
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
thidiazuron           DROPP               50% wettable powder  NOR-AM 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
dimethipin            HARVADE-5F          5.0 lb/gal           UNIROYAL 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
mepiquat chloride     PIX                 0.35 lb/gal          BASF
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HAY CROPS AND PASTURE WEED CONTROL                       
-DOC-
                       HAY CROPS AND PASTURE WEED CONTROL
                  E. C. Murdock, Extension Weed Scientist and
                     B. W. Pinkerton, Extension Agronomist

READ THE HERBICIDE LABEL BEFORE USE

Rates given for preplant incorporated or preemergence treatments are for 
COARSE- to MEDIUM-TEXTURED SOILS. 
ALFALFA - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE 
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BALAN L.C.         l.5 lb/gal               3.0 qt                 
                                                                   l.l3 to l.2
BALAN DRY          60% dry flowable         2.0 lb
 FLOWABLE

REMARKS: Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Apply and incorporate 2 
to 3 inches  deep  as  soon  as  possible  after  application.  BALAN  must  be 
incorporated  one  time  within  8  hr  after application.  Cross disc for best 
results.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ALFALFA - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE 
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EPTAM 7-E          7.0 lb/gal               l.75 pt
                                                                   l.5
GENEP              7.0 lb/gal

REMARKS: Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Use this rate for fall-
seeded alfalfa.  Apply and incorporate immediately to a depth of 2 to 3  inches 
just before planting.  Cross disc for best results.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALFALFA - SEEDLING-POSTEMERGENCE
-DOC-
ALFALFA - SEEDLING-POSTEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
KERB 50-W          50% wettable powder      l.0 to 3.0 lb          0.5 to l.5

REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  broadleaf weeds.  Apply after alfalfa has reached at 
least  the first trifoliate leaf stage.  KERB will provide preemergence control 
of large crabgrass,  goosegrass,  henbit,  mustard,  shepherdspurse,  and  wild 
radish.  KERB  will  provide  preemergence  and  early postemergence control of 
chickweed and Italian ryegrass.  Bests results are  obtained  if  applied  when 
temperatures  are  55  degrees  F  or less.  Do not graze or harvest for forage 
within l20 days after application.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ALFALFA - SEEDLING-POSTEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BUTYRAC 200 or     2.0 lb/gal
                                            4.0 to 6.0 pt          0.9 to l.5
BUTOXONE           l.75 lb/gal

REMARKS:  Postemergence control of broadleaf weeds including mustard,  pigweed, 
lambsquarters,  and  shepherdspurse.  Apply  to  actively growing weeds up to 3 
inches in height or with rosettes less than 2 inches in  diameter.  Apply  when 
alfalfa  is  in  the  l-  to  2-trifoliate leaf stage.  Do not apply if crop is 
stressed from lack of moisture.  Do not apply if temperature is likely to  fall 
below 40 degrees F during or shortly after treatment.  Add surfactant according 
to  label  directions.  These  herbicides provide poor control of chickweed and 
henbit.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ALFALFA - SEEDLING-POSTEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
POAST              l.5 lb/gal               l.0 pt                 0.l9

REMARKS: Annual grasses.  Apply to actively growing grasses--refer to label for 
maximum weed growth stages.  Apply l.0 pt/ac for control of annual grasses such 
as fall panicum, large crabgrass and Italian ryegrass.  POAST may be applied at 
higher rates  for  control  of  perennial  grasses  such  as  bermudagrass  and 
johnsongrass--refer to label for directions.  ADD 1 QT OIL CONCENTRATE/AC.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALFALFA - ESTABLISHED 
-DOC-
ALFALFA - ESTABLISHED 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
KERB 50-W          50% wettable powder      l.0 to 3.0 lb          0.5 to l.5

REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  broadleaf  weeds.  KERB  will  provide  preemergence 
control of large crabgrass,  goosegrass,  henbit,  mustard, shepherdspurse, and 
wild radish.  KERB will provide preemergence and early postemergence control of 
Italian ryegrass and chickweed.  Best results  are  obtained  if  applied  when 
temperatures  are  55  degrees  F  or less.  Do not graze or harvest for forage 
within l20 days after application.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ALFALFA - ESTABLISHED 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BUTYRAC 200 or     2.0 lb/gal
                                            4.0 to 6.0 pt          0.9 to l.5
BUTOXONE           l.75 lb/gal

REMARKS:  Postemergence control of broadleaf weeds including mustard,  pigweed, 
shepherdspurse,  and  lambsquarters.  Apply  to  actively growing weeds up to 3 
inches in height or with rosettes less than 2 inches in diameter.  Do not apply 
if alfalfa is drought-stressed.  Do not apply if temperature is likely to  fall 
below  40  degrees  F  during  or  shortly  after  application.  Add surfactant 
according to label directions.  Do not  graze,  nor  feed  straw  or  hay  from 
alfalfa  within  30  days  after  application.  These  herbicides  provide poor 
control of chickweed and henbit.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ALFALFA - ESTABLISHED 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SENCOR 4,          4.0 lb/gal               0.75 to l.25 pt
LEXONE 4L or
                                                                   0.38 to 0.63
SENCOR DF or       75% dry flowable or      0.5 to 0.75 lb
LEXONE DF          dispersible granule

REMARKS: Preemergence control of chickweed, henbit, lambsquarters, mustard, and 
shepherdspurse.   Also  provides  control  of  annual  grasses  such  as  large 
crabgrass.  Make a single application in the fall after alfalfa becomes dormant 
or  in  the  spring  before  new  growth starts.  Do not apply during the first 
growing season after seeding.  Do not graze or harvest  within  28  days  after 
application.  Do  not  use  on  sands  nor on soils with less than 0.5% organic 
matter.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ALFALFA - ESTABLISHED 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
POAST              l.5 lb/gal               l.0 pt                 0.l9

REMARKS: Annual grasses.  Apply to actively growing grasses--refer to label for 
maximum weed growth stages.  Apply l.0 pt/ac for control of annual grasses such 
as fall panicum, large crabgrass and Italian ryegrass.  POAST may be applied at 
higher rates  for  control  of  perennial  grasses  such  as  bermudagrass  and 
johnsongrass--refer to label for directions.  ADD 1 QT OIL CONCENTRATE/AC.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ROUNDUP            4.0 lb/gal

REMARKS:  Apply  as a SPOT TREATMENT OR WITH A WIPER APPLICATOR ONLY.  Refer to 
label for specific application directions.  No  more  than  l/l0  of  any  acre 
should be treated at one time.  Remove livestock before application and wait l4 
days  after  application before grazing or harvesting.  Subsequent applications 
may be made of 30-day intervals.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LESPEDEZA - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
-DOC-
LESPEDEZA - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EPTAM 7-E or       7.0 lb/gal
                                            3.5 pt                 3.0
GENEP              7.0 lb/gal

REMARKS:   Annual  grasses  and  broadleaf  weeds  such  as  Italian  ryegrass, 
crabgrass,  fall  panicum,  chickweed,  henbit,  and shepherdspurse.  Apply and 
incorporate IMMEDIATELY to a depth of 2  to  3  inches  just  before  planting.
Cross disc for best results.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PASTURES - PERENNIAL GRASSES
-DOC-
PASTURES - PERENNIAL GRASSES
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
KARMEX             80% wettable powder      l.0 to 3.0 lb          0.8 to 2.4

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds.  May be used for weed control  in 
NEWLY  SPRIGGED  BERMUDAGRASS  PASTURES.  Apply immediately after sprigging and 
before emergence of bermudagrass or weeds.  Plant sprigs 2 inches deep.  Do not 
treat areas where sprigs are less than 2 inches deep.  Do  not  graze  or  feed 
foliage from treated areas to livestock within 70 days after application.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PASTURES - PERENNIAL GRASSES
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
KARMEX             80% wettable powder      0.5 to l.0 lb          0.4 to 0.8

REMARKS:  Annual  grasses and broadleaf weeds.  May be used for weed control in 
NEWLY SPRIGGED BERMUDAGRASS  PASTURES  for  postemergence  control  of  emerged 
seedling  weeds  2  to  4  inches  tall.  Add  l  pt Surfactant WK/25 gal spray 
solution.  If bermudagrass has emerged at time of treatment some temporary burn 
of exposed plant parts may occur.  Plant sprigs 2 inches deep.  Do not graze or 
feed foliage from treated areas to livestock within 70 days after application.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PASTURES - PERENNIAL GRASSES
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2,4-D              3.8 to 4.0 lb/gal        l.0 to 4.0 pt          0.5 to 2.0
(several trade names)

REMARKS: Broadleaf weeds.  Use the high rate to control perennial weeds.  Deep-
rooted  perennial  weeds  may  require  repeated  treatments.  Do  not apply to 
seedling grass.  Clover or other legumes may  be  injured  or  killed.  Do  not 
graze  dairy cattle in treated areas for l4 days after application.  Do not cut 
for hay within 30 days after application.  Several companies are marketing 2,4-
D--refer to individual product labels for specific  directions  concerning  its 
use in pastures.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PASTURES - PERENNIAL GRASSES
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BANVEL             4.0 lb/gal               0.5 to 2.0 pt          0.25 to l.0

REMARKS:  Broadleaf  weeds.  Apply to actively growing weeds.  Clover and other 
legumes may be injured or killed.  Keep milking dairy cows off treated pastures 
for 7 days after application where l.0 pt/ac was used and  for  2l  days  after 
application  when  2.0  pt/ac  was  used.  Do not graze meat animals in treated 
fields within 30 days of slaughter.  Do not harvest for hay with 37 days  after 
treatment  with  l.0  pt/ac and 5l days after treatment with 2.0 pt/ac.  BANVEL 
may be used at higher rates (up to 2 gal/ac) for hard-to-control weeds such  as 
multiflora rose and blackberry--refer to label for special directions.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PASTURES - PERENNIAL GRASSES 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BANVEL             4.0 lb/gal               0.5 to 2.0 pt          0.25 to l.0
  +                                             +                       +
2,4-D              3.8 to 4.0 lb/gal        l.0 to 2.0 pt          0.5 to l.0

REMARKS:  Broadleaf  weeds.  Higher  rates  of  BANVEL or 2,4-D may be used for 
hard-to-control perennial weeds.  Follow  grazing  restrictions  on  individual 
product labels.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PASTURES - PERENNIAL GRASSES 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WEEDMASTER         3.87 lb/gal              0.5 to 2.0 qt          0.5 to l.9
                 (2.87 lb  2,4-D +
                  l.0 lb dicamba)

REMARKS:  Broadleaf weeds.  WEEDMASTER is a package mixture of dicamba (BANVEL) 
+ 2,4-D.  Higher rates may be used for hard-to-control  weeds--refer  to  label 
for  directions.  Do  not  graze  lactating  dairy  animals within 7 days after 
application.  Do not graze meat animals in treated  areas  within  30  days  of 
slaughter.  Do not harvest for hay within 37 days after treatment.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PASTURES - PERENNIAL GRASSES 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ROUNDUP            4.0 lb

REMARKS:  Apply  as a SPOT TREATMENT OR WITH A WIPER APPLICATOR ONLY.  Refer to 
label for specific application directions.  No  more  than  l/l0  of  any  acre 
should be treated at one time.  Remove livestock before application and wait l4 
days  after  application before grazing or harvesting.  Subsequent applications 
may be made at 30-day intervals.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INSECT CONTROL IN ALFALFA                           
-DOC-

                           INSECT CONTROL IN ALFALFA
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  ALFALFA WEEVIL
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R carbofuran
    FURADAN 4-F    1/2-2 pt    0.25-1.0    Apply in min of 20 gal    1/2 pt-7
                                           water/ac when 50% of
                                           terminals show feeding
                                           damage.

REMARKS:  Apply only two application/season.  Do not apply more than once per 
          cutting.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  ALFALFA WEEVIL (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R azinphosmethyl               0.5-0.75    Same as carbofuran          14-21
    GUTHION 2S     2-3 pt
    GUTHION 50WP   1.0-1.5 lb

REMARKS:  Apply no more than once/cutting.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  methoxychlor     2-3 pt      --          Same as carbofuran.            7 
  + diazinon
    ALFA-TOX EC

REMARKS:  Follow label instructions.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  ALFALFA WEEVIL (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R PENNCAP-M        1 qt        0.5         Same as carbofuran.           15

REMARKS:  Follow label instructions.
______________________________________________________________________________
R methyl parathion             0.5         Same as carbofuran.           15
    2E             1 qt
    4E             1 pt
    6E             0.66 pt
    8E             0.5 pt

REMARKS:  Do not apply more than once between cuttings.  Operator hazard;
          observe precautions.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  ALFALFA WEEVIL (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  malathion                    1.25        Same as carbofuran.            0
    5E             1 qt
    25WP           5 lb

REMARKS:  Follow label instructions.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  chlorpyrifos                 0.5-1.0     Same as carbofuran.         14-21
    LORSBAN 4E     1-2 pt

REMARKS:  Apply no more than once/cutting.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  ALFALFA WEBWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  trichlorfon                  1.0         Use enough water for           0
    DYLOX 80SP     20 oz                   complete coverage.
    DYLOX 4E       1 qt

REMARKS:  Apply no more than three applications/cutting.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  carbaryl                     1.0-1.5     Same as trichlorfon.           0
    SEVIN 80% 
      Sprayable    1.25-1.87 lb
    SEVIN 50W      2-3 lb
    SEVIMOL 4      1-1.5 qt
    SEVIN SL       1-1.5 qt

REMARKS:  Follow label instructions.
______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT:  PEA APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
R methomyl                     0.45        Spray as needed.               7
    LANNATE 
      L-NUDRIN 1.8 1 qt
    LANNATE -
      NUDRIN 90    0.5 lb
REMARKS:  Do not apply to dormant or semi-dormant alfalfa when minimum daily
          temp. is 50 F or lower.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R carbofuran       1/2-2 pt    0.25-1.0    Spray as needed.          1/2 pt-7
    FURADAN 4-F                                                        1 pt-14
                                                                       2 pt-28
REMARKS:  Apply only two application/season.  Do not apply more than once per
          cutting.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  PEA APHID (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
R methyl parathion             0.5         Spray as needed.              15
    2E             1 qt
    4E             1 pt
    6E             0.66 pt
    8E             0.5 pt
REMARKS:  Operator hazard; observe precautions.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R PENNCAP-M        1 qt        0.5         Spray as needed.              15
REMARKS:  Do not spray during bloom to avoid killing honeybees.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  chlorpyrifos     1 pt        0.5         Spray as needed.              14
    LORSBAN 4E
REMARKS:  Do not apply more than once/cutting.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  FALL ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
R methomyl                     0.45        Spray as needed.               7
    LANNATE 
      L-NUDRIN 1.8 1 qt
    LANNATE- 
      NUDRIN 90    0.5 lb

REMARKS:  Do not apply to dormant or semi-dormant alfalfa when minimum daily
          temp. is 50 F or lower.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  chlorpyrifos                 0.5         Spray as needed.              14
    LORSBAN 4E     1 pt

REMARKS:  Do not apply more than once/cutting.
________________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  THREE-CORNERED ALFALFA HOPPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl                     1.0         Spray when adults or           0
    SEVIN 80%                              nymphs are girdling 10%
      Sprayable    1.25 lb                 of the stems in the field.
    SEVIN 50W      2 lb
    SEVIMOL 4      1 qt
    SEVIN SL       1 qt

REMARKS:  Follow label directions.
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  POTATO LEAFHOPPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R carbofuran       1 pt        0.5         Apply when insects            14
    FURADAN 4F                             appear.

REMARKS:  Apply only two applications/season.  Only once/cutting.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  chlorpyrifos     1 pt        0.5         Apply when insects            14
    LORSBAN 4E                             appear.

REMARKS:  Apply no more than 4 applications/season.  Only once/cutting.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R mevinphos        1 pt        0.5         Apply when insects             1
    PHOSDRIN 4EC                           appear.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PASTUREGRASS INSECT CONTROL                          
-DOC-

                          PASTUREGRASS INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SPITTLEBUG
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion 4E     0.5 pt      0.25        Spray.                        15

REMARKS:  Burn coastal bermuda stubble in late February.  Management practices,
          such as mowing or grazing, important.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FALL ARMYWORM OR TRUE ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  carbaryl                     1.5         Apply as spray.                0
    SEVIN 80%
      Sprayable    1.87 lb
    SEVIN 50W      3 lb
    SEVIN 4F       3 pt

REMARKS:  For best results apply before larvae exceed 1/2 in.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R parathion 4E     0.5-1.0 pt  0.25-0.5    Apply as spray when           15
                                           larvae are small.
REMARKS:  Operator hazard.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  FALL ARMYWORM OR TRUE ARMYWORM (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  trichlorfon                  1.0         Spray.                         0
    DYLOX 80SP     1.25 lb
    DYLOX 4E       1 qt

REMARKS:  No more than three applications/cutting.  Applications may be made
          without removing grazing livestock.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R methomyl                     0.33-0.45   Spray.                         7
    LANATE L-
     NUDRIN 1.8  1.5-2 pt
    LANNATE -
     NUDRIN 90     0.37-0.5 lb

REMARKS:  Bermudagrass only.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  WHITE GRUB (GREEN JUNE BEETLE, JAPANESE BEETLE)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

Renovate and rotate with corn or small grain.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R parathion 4E     1 pt        0.5         Spray, dust or granules.      15

REMARKS:  Apply to damaged fields as surface treatment.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  carbaryl                     1.5-2.0     Spray.                         0
    SEVIN 80%
     Sprayable     1.87-2.5 lb
    SEVIN 50W      3-4 lb
    SEVIN 4F       3-4 pt
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  GRASSHOPPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl                     1.0-1.5     Apply as spray.                0
    SEVIN 80%
     Sprayable     1.25-1.87 lb            Apply to grass and field
    SEVIN 50W      2-3 lb                  margin.
    SEVIN 4F       2-3 pt

REMARKS:  Grasshopper nymphs are easier to control than adults.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  malathion                    1.0         Apply to grass and field       0
    5E             1 3/5 pt                margin.
    25WP           4 lb
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  GRASSHOPPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  diazinon                     0.5         Spray.                         0
    DIAZINON AG500 1 pt                    Apply to grass and field
    DIAZINON 50W   1 lb                    margin.

REMARKS:  Do not repeat application for 30 days.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

R PENNCAP-M        1-3 pt      0.25-0.75   Use higher rates for          15
                                           large grasshoppers.

REMARKS:  Use higher rate if weather is cool.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  FIRE ANT
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  
  AMDRO                                    Broadcast uniformly with       0
    0.88% bait     1.0-1.5 lb              ground equipment.

REMARKS:  Use all bait within 3 days after opening.  Amdro is slow acting, 
          possibly requiring several mo to completely control all ants in 
          mound.  Very large mound may need to be treated again in 4 mo.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  AMDRO                                    5 level tsp of biat/mound      0
    0.88% bait     1.0 lb                  (individual mound treat- 
                                           ment)

REMARKS:  Distribute bait uniformly 3 to 4 ft around base of mound.  Do not
          use more than 1.5 lb/ac.  Follow other directions given above.
______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT:  FIRE ANT (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                       FORMULATION/                                  LAST APPL
PESTICIDE              100 GAL WATER           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl                                   Treat individual mounds        0
    SEVIN 80%                              and perimeter by drenching
    Sprayable            2.0 lb            with at least 1 qt of 
    SEVIN 50W            3.0 lb            dilute solution/6 in of
                                           mound diameter.  Follow
                                           label instructions.

REMARKS:  Do not disturb mounds before treatment.  Do not exceed 2 gal 
          solution/mound.  Repeat application if mound activity resumes.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEANUTS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
-DOC-
PEANUTS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATES
                                            FORMULATED      
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BALAN L.C. or      l.5 lb/gal              3.0 to 4.0 qt or
                                                                   l.l3 to l.5
BALAN DRY FLOWABLE  60% dry flowable       2.0 to 2.5 lb

REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Incorporate  2  to  3 
inches  deep as soon as possible after application.  BALAN must be incorporated 
one time within 8 hr after application.  Cross disc for best results.  Use  l.5 
lb ai/ac for control of fall panicum and broadleaf signalgrass.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
VERNAM 7-E         7.0 lb/gal              2.33 to 3.0 pt          2.0 to 2.6

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds, yellow nutsedge, purple 
nutsedge.  Incorporate 2 to 3 inches deep immediately after application.  Cross 
disc for best results.  Plant within l0 days after application.  Do  not  plant 
seed over 2 inches deep.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATES
                                            FORMULATED      
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL              4.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt          0.75 to l.0

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Incorporate to a depth 
of l to 2 inches within 7 days after application.  Cross disc for best results.
May be applied up to 60 days before planting.  Wheat and barley may be planted 
l20 days after application.  Do not feed forage or graze livestock for 75 days 
after planting wheat or barley on treated land.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SONALAN DRY        50% dry flowable        l.l to l.9 lb           0.6 to l.0
 FLOWABLE

REMARKS:  Annual  grasses,  small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Incorporate into the 
top 2 to 3 inches of soil as soon as possible after application.  SONALAN  must 
be incorporated within 2 days after application.  Crop disc for best results.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATES
                                            FORMULATED      
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E or         8.0 lb/gal              l.5 to 2.0 pt or
                                                                   l.5 to 2.0
DUAL 25G           25% granule             6.0 + 8.0 lb

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds, yellow nutsedge.  Apply 
and incorporate into the top 2 inches of soil within l4 days  before  planting.
If treated crop is lost,  corn,  cotton,  soybeans, peanuts, or grain or forage 
sorghum treated with Concep may be replanted immediately.  Barley,  oats,  rye, 
or wheat may be planted 4.5 months after application.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATES
                                            FORMULATED      
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BALAN L.C. or      l.5 lb/gal               3.0 to 4.0 qt or       l.l3 to l.5
BALAN DRY FLOWABLE  60% dry flowable        2.0 to 2.5 lb
   +                                           +                        +
VERNAM 7-E         7.0 lb/gal               2.33 pt                2.0

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds, yellow nutsedge, purple 
nutsedge.  Incorporate 2 to 3 inches deep immediately after application.  Cross 
disc  for  best results.  Plant within l0 days after application.  Do not plant 
seed deeper than 2 inches.  BALAN L.C.  + VERNAM may  be  applied  with  center 
pivot irrigation systems.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATES
                                            FORMULATED      
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL              4.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt          0.75 to l.0
  +                                            +                        +
VERNAM 7-E         7.0 lb/gal               2.33 to 3.0 pt         2.0 to 2.6

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds, yellow nutsedge, purple 
nutsedge.  Incorporate 2 to 3 inches deep  immediately  after  application.  Do 
not plant seed deeper than 2 inches.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATES
                                            FORMULATED      
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SONALAN DRY        50% dry flowable         0.9 to l.9 lb          0.5 to l.0
 FLOWABLE
  +                                            +                       +
VERNAM 7-E         7.0 lb/gal               2.33 to 3.0 pt         2.0 to 2.6

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds, yellow nutsedge, purple 
nutsedge.  Incorporate 2 to 3 inches deep  immediately  after  planting.  Cross 
disc  for  best results.  May be applied up to l0 days before planting.  Do not 
plant seed deeper than 2 inches.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATES
                                            FORMULATED      
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BALAN L.C. or      l.5 lb/gal               3.0 to 4.0 qt or       l.l3 to l.5
BALAN DRY FLOWABLE  60% dry flowable        2.0 to 2.5 lb
  +                                            +                        +
DUAL 8E                                     l.5 to 2.0 pt          l.5 to 2.0

REMARKS:   Annual  grasses,  small-seeded  broadleaf  weeds,  yellow  nutsedge.
Incorporate  2 to 3 inches deep as soon as possible after application.  Must be 
incorporated one time within 8  hr  after  application.  Cross  disc  for  best 
results.  May be applied up to l4 days before planting.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATES
                                            FORMULATED      
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL              4.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt          0.75 to l.0
  +                                            +                        +
DUAL 8E            8.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt          l.5 to 2.0

REMARKS:   Annual  grasses,  small-seeded  broadleaf  weeds,  yellow  nutsedge.
Incorporate into the top 2 inches of soil  within  7  days  after  application.
Cross disc for best results.  May be applied up to l4 days prior to planting.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SONALAN DRY        50% dry flowable         0.9 to l.9 lb          0.5 to l.0
 FLOWABLE
   +                                           +                       +
DUAL 8E            8.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.5 pt          l.5 to 2.5

REMARKS:   Annual  grasses,  small-seeded  broadleaf  weeds,  yellow  nutsedge.
Incorporate into the top 2 to 3 inches of soil within 2 days after application.
May be applied up to l4 days prior to planting.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEANUTS - PREEMERGENCE
-DOC-
PEANUTS - PREEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E or         8.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt or
                                                                   l.5 to 2.0 
DUAL 25G           25% granule              6.0 to 8.0 lb

REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  small-seeded broadleaf weeds,  yellow nutsedge.  For 
suppression of Florida beggarweed apply DUAL 8E at 2.0 to 3.0 pt/ac or DUAL 25G 
at  8.0  to l2.0 lb/ac.  Apply at planting or after planting but before crop or 
weeds emerge.  DUAL 8E may be applied with center pivot irrigation systems.  Do 
not make a preemergence application of DUAL over an incorporated application of 
DUAL.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - PREEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LASSO or           4.0 lb/gal               3.0 to 4.0 qt or
                                                                   3.0 to 4.0
LASSO II           l5% granule              20.0 to 26.0 lb

REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Apply at planting  or 
after  planting  but  before  crop  or weeds emerge.  LASSO may be applied with 
center pivot irrigation systems.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEANUTS - POSTEMERGENCE
-DOC-
PEANUTS - POSTEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BUTYRAC 200 or     2.0 lb/gal               0.8 to l.0 pt or
                                                                   0.2 to 0.38
BUTOXONE           l.75 lb/gal              l.0 to l.75 pt

REMARKS: Control or suppression of annual broadleaf weeds, especially cocklebur 
and morningglory.  For best results apply when weeds are 3 inches  or  less  in 
height.  Apply  from  2  to  l2 wk after planting.  A second application may be 
made if needed--do not apply later than the late bloom  stage  of  peanuts.  Do 
not apply within 45 days of harvest.  Do not apply to drought-stressed peanuts.
Do not feed peanut vines or hay to livestock.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - POSTEMERGENCE 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BASAGRAN           4.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt          0.75 to l.0

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds,  yellow nutsedge.  Refer to label for maximum 
weed  heights.  Use  a  minimum  of  20  gal  water/ac  and a minimum of 40 psi 
pressure.  For yellow nutsedge two applications may be needed.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLAZER 2L          2.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt          0.38 to 0.5

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds--refer to  label  for  maximum  weed  heights.
Apply  in  at  least  20  gal water/ac and use 40 to 60 psi pressure.  Add l pt 
nonionic surfactant/l00 gal spray solution.  Do not apply  within  75  days  of 
harvest.  BLAZER requires a 6 hr rain-free period for best results.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - POSTEMERGENCE 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
POAST              l.5 lb/gal               l.0 to l.5 pt          0.l9 to 0.28

REMARKS: Annual and perennial grasses.  Apply to actively growing grasses.  Use 
a  minimum  volume  of  5 gal and a maximum volume of 20 gal spray solution/ac.
Use 40 to 60 psi pressure.  Do not cultivate 5 days  before  or  7  days  after 
application.  Add  oil  concentrate  at  2 pt/ac.  Use l.0 pt/ac for control of 
annual grasses.  Use l.5 pt/ac for johnsongrass  and  bermudagrass-if  regrowth 
occurs make a second application at l.0 pt/ac.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - POSTEMERGENCE 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATED               PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BASAGRAN           4.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt          0.75 to l.0
   +                                            +                       +
BLAZER 2L          2.0 lb/gal               l.0 to 2.0 pt          0.25 to 0.5

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds,  yellow nutsedge-refer to labels for  maximum 
weed  heights.  Add  nonionic  surfactant at 0.5 pt/l00 gal spray solution.  Do 
not use crop oil concentrate.  Do not apply within 75 days of harvest.  Use  at 
least 20 gal water/ac and 40 psi pressure.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - POSTEMERGENCE 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLAZER 2L          2.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt          0.38 to 0.5
  +                                             +                       +
BUTYRAC 200        2.0 lb/gal               l.0 pt                 0.25
  or                                            or                     or
BUTOXONE           l.75 lb/gal              l.0 pt                 0.22

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds.  The addition of BUTYRAC 200 or  BUTOXONE  to 
BLAZER  may  improve  control of cocklebur and morningglory--refer to label for 
maximum  weed  heights.  Add  nonionic  surfactant  at  l.0  pt/l00  gal  spray 
solution.  Do not use crop oils.  Peanuts should be at least 2 weeks old before 
application.  Do  not  use  after pod-filling begins.  Refer to label for other 
precautions.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUTS - POSTEMERGENCE 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BASAGRAN           4.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt          0.75 to l.0
  +                                             +                       +
BUTYRAC 200        2.0 lb/gal               0.5 pt                 0.l3
  or                                            or
BUTOXONE           l.75 lb/gal              0.6 pt

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds.  The addition of BUTYRAC 200 or  BUTOXONE  to 
BASAGRAN  improves control of morningglory species.  Refer to label for maximum 
weed heights.  Apply before morningglory vines exceed l0 inches in length.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEANUT GROWTH REGULATORS                            
-DOC-
                            PEANUT GROWTH REGULATORS
                       D. T. Gooden, Extension Agronomist

 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
GROWTH                                      FORMULATED
REGULATOR          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
KYLAR              85% wettable powder      l.0 lb                 0.85

REMARKS:  Apply when vines are within l2 in  of  meeting  in  center  up  until 
touching.  Refer  to  label for application directions.  Do not apply within 30 
days of harvest.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEANUT - HERBICIDE INFORMATION
-DOC-
PEANUT - HERBICIDE INFORMATION

For  information  only.   Use  of  trade  names  does  not  imply  preferential 
endorsement  nor  discrimination  against similar products with different trade 
names.  

COMMON NAME        TRADE NAME(S)        FORMULATION(S)          COMPANY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
acifluorfen        BLAZER 2L            2.0 lb/gal              BASF
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
alachlor           LASSO                4.0 lb/gal              Monsanto
                   LASSO II             l5% granule             Monsanto
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
benefin            BALAN L.C.           l.5 lb/gal              Elanco
                   BALAN DRY FLOWABLE   60% dry flowable        Elanco
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bentazon           BASAGRAN             4.0 lb/gal              BASF
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ethalfluralin    SONALAN DRY FLOWABLE   50% dry flowable        Elanco
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEANUT - HERBICIDE INFORMATION

COMMON NAME        TRADE NAME(S)        FORMULATION(S)          COMPANY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
metolachlor        DUAL 8E              8.0 lb/gal              Ciba-Geigy
                   DUAL 25G             25% granule             Ciba-Geigy
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pendimethalin      PROWL                4.0 lb/gal          American Cyanamid
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
sethoxydim         POAST                l.5 lb/gal              BASF
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2,4-DB             BUTYRAC 200          2.0 lb/gal              Rhone-Poulenc
                   BUTOXONE             l.75 lb/gal             Vertac
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
vernolate          VERNAM 7-E           7.0 lb/gal              Stauffer
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
.LB:22
-DOC-
.LB:22
                             PEANUT INSECT CONTROL
                     Jay W. Chapin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  THRIPS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R aldicarb                  0.3-0.6    Apply granules in furrow at        90
    TEMIK 15G     2-4 lb               planting. Use 2 1/3 to 4 2/3
                                       oz/1,000 row ft.

REMARKS:  Do not feed hay or vines to livestock.  Do not apply more than once/
         season.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  THRIPS (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R phorate                   0.6-0.9    Same as aldicarb. Use 4 2/3     Planting
    THIMET 15G    4-6 lb               to 7 oz/1,000 ft.

REMARKS:  Some minor leaflet burn may be seen with this and other systemics.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

R disulfoton                0.75-1.05  Same as aldicarb. Use 6 to      Planting
    DI-SYSTON 15G 5-7 lb               8 1/3 oz/1,000 row ft.

REMARKS:  Same as phorate.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  THRIPS (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  acephate                  0.5        Apply to foliage as needed.        14
    ORTHENE 75S   2/3 lb               Foliar applications for thrips
                                       seldom increase yields.

REMARKS:  Do not feed hay to livestock or allow grazing on treated area.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  LEAFHOPPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  acephate                             Apply to foliage as needed.        14
    ORTHENE 75S   1 lb      0.75

REMARKS:  Do not feed hay to livestock or allow grazing on treated area.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  carbaryl
    SEVIN 80S     1 lb      0.8        Apply to foliage as needed.         0
    SEVIN XLR 4L  1 gal/    0.8
                  5 ac
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  THREE-CORNERED ALFALFA HOPPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl                  0.4-0.6    Apply to foliage as needed.         0
    SEVIN 80S    1/2-3/4 lb
    SEVIN XLR 4L  1 pt
_______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CORN EARWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl                  0.8-1.0    Consider treatment when total       0
    SEVIN 80S     1-1 1.4 lb           foliage feeders exceed four large
    SEVIN XLR 4L  1 gal/4-5 ac         worms (1/2 in)/row ft and foliage
    SEVIN 4F      1 gal/4-5 ac         loss will exceed 15%.  Accurate
                                       identification is important. 
                                       These rates may not control fall
                                       armyworm.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R esfenvalerate                        Same threshold.                    21
    ASANA 1.9EC   1 gal/76  .025       Will not control fall armyworm.

REMARKS:  Do not feed or graze treated vines.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  CORN EARWORM (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate               0.05-0.10  Same threshold.                    21
    PYDRIN 2.4EC  1 gal/               Will not control fall armyworm.
                 24-48 ac

REMARKS:  Do not feed or graze treated vines.  Do not exceed three 
          applications/season.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R methomyl                  0.22       Same Threshold.                    21
    LANNATE-      1 pt                 Also controls fall armyworm.
    NUDRIN 1.8L

REMARKS:  Do not feed treated vines.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  CORN EARWORM (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  acephate                  0.75-1.0   Same threshold.  Also controls     14
    ORTHENE 75S   1-1 1/3 lb           fall armyworm.

REMARKS:  Do not feed or graze treated vines.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FALL ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl                  0.22       See corn earworm threshold.        21
    LANNATE-
    NUDRIN 1.8L   1 pt

REMARKS:  Do not feed treated vines.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  acephate        1-1 1/3   0.75-1.0   See corn earworm threshold.        14

REMARKS:  Do not feed or graze treated vines.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  BEET ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl                  0.45       See corn earworm threshold.        21
    LANNATE-
    NUDRIN 1.8L   2 pt

REMARKS:  Do not feed treated vines.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  VELVETBEAN
_______________________________________________________________________________

Velvetbean caterpillar is a late season (Sept.-Oct.) pest which seldom attacks 
peanuts in South Carolina.  It is very easy to control.  Lowest rates of any of 
the recommended foliage feeder insecticides (Asana, Lannate, Nudrin, Orthene, 
Pydrin, Sevin) will provide excellent control.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  chlorpyrifos              0.5-1.0    Apply 3.75-7.5 oz 15G/1,000 row    21
    LORSBAN 4E    1-2 pt               ft in a 12- to 16-in band. For
    LORSBAN 15G   3.3-6.7 lb           liquid application, use a coarse
                                       spray.

REMARKS:  Do not feed hay or forage to meat or dairy animals.
______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT:  CUTWORM (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  diazinon 14G    14 lb     2.0        Apply 1 lb 14G/1,000 row ft in      0
                                       a 12- to 16-in band.

REMARKS:  7 days preharvest interval for forage, 21 days for hay.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

R fenvalerate               .1-.12     Use 10 gal/ac.  Effective against  21
    PYDRIN 2.4    1 gal/20-24 ac       cutworms in canopy and on soil
                                       surface.

REMARKS:  Do not feed or graze treated vines.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  LESSER CORNSTALK BORER
________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  chlorpyrifos              1.0-2.0    Apply 7.5 to 15 oz 15G/1,000       21
    LORSBAN 15G   6.7-13.3             linear ft of row in a 12-in
    LORSBAN 4E    1-2 qt               band.  For broadcast use 14 lb
                                       15G/ac.  For liquid application
                                       direct a coarse spray (at least
                                       40 gal/ac) to crown of the 
                                       plant.  Granules are more effect-
                                       ive than directed sprays.  Treat
                                       if 10% of plants are infested.
                                       Use high rate for rescue.

REMARKS:  Do not exceed 4 lb ai/ac/season.  Do not feed forage or hay to 
          livestock.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  LESSER CORNSTALK BORER (cont)
________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fonofos                   1.0-2.0    Apply 11.5-23 oz 10G (6-11.5       45
    DYFONATE 10G  10-20 lb             oz 20G)/1,000 linear ft of row
    DYFONATE 20G   5-10 lb             in a 12-in band. Broadcast 
                                       reduces effectiveness.  Use 
                                       high rate for rescue.

REMARKS:  Do not apply more than 30 days after initial pegging.  Do not graze
          or feed immature crop to livestock. 
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  LESSER CORNSTALK BORER (cont)
________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion 10G   20 lb     2.0        Apply 23 oz 10G/1,000 linear ft    15
                                       of row in a 12-in band.  Good
                                       soil moisture is required within
                                       2 days of application for 
                                       effective control.

REMARKS:  Do not graze or feed immature crop to livestock.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SOUTHERN CORN ROOTWORM
________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R carbofuran                1.0-2.0    Apply 7.5-15 oz 15G/1,000          80
    FURADAN 15G   6.7-13.3 lb          linear ft of row in a 12-in
                                       band by July 10 to fields with
                                       a history of rootworm damage.
                                       Use the high rate for rescue
                                       or broadcast application.

REMARKS:  Do not exceed 20 lb ai/ac/yr.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  SOUTHERN CORN ROOTWORM (cont)
________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  chlorpyrifos              .5-1.5     Apply 3.75-11.5 oz 15G/1,000       21
    LORSBAN 15G   3.3-10 lb            linear ft of row in a 12-in 
                                       band by July 10 to fields with 
                                       a history of rootworm damage.
                                       Use 13 lb/ac for broadcast
                                       application.  Not recommended
                                       for rescue treatment.

REMARKS:  Do not exceed 4 lb ai/ac/season.  Do not feed forage or hay to 
          livestock.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  SOUTHERN CORN ROOTWORM (cont)
________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fonofos                   1.0-2.0    Apply 11.5-23 oz 10G (6-11.5 oz    45
    DYFONATE 10G  10-20 lb             20G)/1,000 linear ft of row in
    DYFONATE 20G   5-10 lb             a 12-in band by July 10 to fields
                                       with a history of rootworm damage.
                                       Use the high rate for rescue or
                                       broadcast.

REMARKS:  Do not apply more than 30 days after initial pegging.  Do not graze
          or feed immature crop to livestock. 
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  SOUTHERN CORN ROOTWORM (cont)
________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion 10G   20 lb     2.0        Recommended only on established    15
                                       rootworm populations.  Apply
                                       23 oz 10G/1,000 linear ft of
                                       row in a 12-in band.

REMARKS:  Do not graze or feed immature crop.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  WIREWORMS
________________________________________________________________________________

Damage from wireworms can not be distinguished from rootworm.  Wireworms have a 
thin, shiny, light brown covering on the body.  Rootworms are white to cream 
colored and soft-bodied.  Use the same treatment rates and date (prior to July 
10) as for rootworm.
________________________________________________________________________________
INSECT:  SPIDER MITE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R monocrotophos             0.63-0.94  Make two applications at a 5-      21
    AZODRIN 5WM   1-1 1/2 pt           to 7-day interval.  Use at
                                       least 25 gal/ac.  Avoid mites
                                       by eliminating unnecessary
                                       foliar insecticides.

REMARKS:  Do not exceed two applications/season.  Do not graze or feed treated
          vines to livestock.  VERY TOXIC TO QUAIL AND OTHER WILDLIFE.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  SPIDER MITE (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  propargite                1.6        Same as for monocrotophos except   14
    COMITE 73L    2 pt                 not labeled for more than one
                                       application/yr.

REMARKS:  Do not graze or feed treated foliage.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SMALL GRAIN WEED CONTROL                            
-DOC-
                            SMALL GRAIN WEED CONTROL
        E. C. Murdock, Extension Weed Scientist, D. T. Gooden, Extension
               Agronomist, and B. J. Gossett, Research Agronomist

READ THE HERBICIDE LABEL BEFORE USE

SMALL GRAINS - PREEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R HOELON 3EC       3.0 lb/gal               2.0 to 2.67 pt         0.75 + l.0

REMARKS:   Preemergence  control  of  Italian  ryegrass.   USE  HOELON   AS   A 
PREEMERGENCE TREATMENT ON WHEAT ONLY.  DO NOT USE ON BARLEY.  Apply at planting 
or  immediately  after.  Use  2.67 pt/ac in fields that have a history of heavy 
Italian ryegrass pressures.  Do not allow livestock to  graze  treated  fields.
Do  not  harvest  forage,  hay,  or  straw  from  treated fields prior to grain 
harvest.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SMALL GRAINS - POSTEMERGENCE
-DOC-
SMALL GRAINS - POSTEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ME4 BROMINAL       4.0 lb/gal               0.5 to l.0 pt          0.25 + 0.5

BUCTRIL            2.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt          0.38 + 0.5

REMARKS:  Winter annual broadleaf weeds.  Applications may be made in the fall, 
winter,  or  spring  to  small  grains before the boot stage.  Apply to emerged 
weeds in the 2- to 4-leaf stage or when rosettes are less than  l.5  inches  in 
diameter.  Thorough  spray coverage is essential.  ME4 BROMINAL and BUCTRIL may 
be used for weed control in wheat, oats,  rye,  or barley.  BUCTRIL may also be 
used  for  control in triticale.  Do not graze treated fields for 30 days after 
treatment.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SMALL GRAINS - POSTEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2,4-D              3.8 to 4.0 lb/gal        0.5 + 2.0 pt           0.24 + l.0
(several trade
names)

REMARKS:  Winter annual broadleaf weeds,  wild garlic,  wild onion.  Use l.5 to 
2.0 pt of 2,4-D ESTER/ac for control of wild garlic or wild onion.  Apply 2,4-D 
when grain is well tillered (usually 4 to 8 inches tall) but not forming joints 
in  the  stem.  Do not apply before the tiller stage or from early boot through 
the milk stage.  Oats are more sensitive to 2,4-D than other  small  grains--do 
not  exceed  l.0  pt/ac  on  oats.  Do  not graze or feed forage for 2 wk after 
treatment.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SMALL GRAINS - POSTEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BANVEL             4.0 lb/gal               0.25 pt                0.l3

REMARKS:  Winter annual broadleaf weeds.  Apply  to  fall-seeded  small  grains 
immediately  after winter dormancy and before they begin to joint.  May be used 
for weed control in wheat,  barley,  and oats.  Do not  graze  or  harvest  for 
livestock feed prior to crop maturity.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BANVEL             4.0 lb/gal               0.25 pt                0.l3
  +                                          +                      +
2,4-D              3.8 to 4.0 lb/gal        0.5 to 0.75 pt         0.25 to 0.38

REMARKS:  Annual  broadleaf  weeds.   Apply  to  fall-seeded  wheat  or  barley 
immediately after winter dormancy and  before  they  begin  to  joint.  Do  not 
exceed  0.5  pt 2,4-D/ac on barley.  Do not graze or harvest for livestock feed 
before crop maturity.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SMALL GRAINS - POSTEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BANVEL             4.0 lb/gal               0.25 pt                0.l3
  +                                           +                     +
2,4-D ester        3.8 to 4.0 lb/gal        l.0 to l.5 pt          0.5 to 0.75

REMARKS: Annual broadleaf weeds, wild garlic, wild onion.  Apply to fall-seeded 
WHEAT before the jointing stage.  Do not graze or harvest  for  livestock  feed 
before crop maturity.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SMALL GRAINS - POSTEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R HOELON 3EC       3.0 lb/gal               l.33 to 2.67 pt        0.5 to l.0

REMARKS:  Control of Italian ryegrass in WHEAT or BARLEY ONLY.  Use l.33  pt/ac 
if ryegrass is in the l- to 4-leaf stage;  use 2.0 to 2.67 pt/ac if ryegrass is 
in the 4- to 5-leaf stage.  Apply HOELON before wheat or barley reaches the one 
node (jointing) stage of growth.  Do not exceed 2.0  pt/ac  on  barley.  HOELON 
can be used on the following varieties of barley;  Boone,  Sussex,  Milton, and 
Henry.  Barley must be developed to tiller initiation before  applying  HOELON.
Do not graze treated fields.  Do not havest forage,  hay, or straw from treated 
fields prior to grain harvest.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SMALL GRAIN INSECT CONTROL                            
-DOC-

                           SMALL GRAIN INSECT CONTROL 
                     Jay W. Chapin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  dimethoate                .25        Treat if populations exceed:       60
    CYGON 4EC     1/2 pt               FALL: 15/drill foot
    CYGON 2.67    gal/10 ac            SPRING: 3-6" plants 100/drill
    DEFEND 2.67   gal/10 ac            foot, 7-10" plants - 200 drill/
                                       foot, 7-10" plants - 300 drill/
                                       foot, 20 aphids/head

REMARKS:  Labeled only for wheat.  Do not graze within 14 days.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  APHID (cont)
________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

R disulfoton                .75-1.0    Also provides suppression of   30 (wheat 
    DI-SYSTON 8   3/4-1 pt             hessian fly when applied        barley)
                                       with topdress nitrogen.        60 (oats)

REMARKS:  Labeled for wheat, oats, and barley.  Do not graze after any foliar
          application of Di-Syston.  3/4 pt maximum labeled rate on wheat.
          Highly toxic.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  malathion 8 EC  3/4-1 pt  .75-1.0                                        7

REMARKS:  7-day pregrazing interval.  Labeled for wheat, barley, oats, and rye.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  APHID (cont)
________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

R methyl parathion          .25-.5                                        15
    4 EC          1/2-1 pt
    6 EC          1/3-2/3 pt
    8 EC          1/4-1/2 pt

REMARKS:  Highly toxic.  Labeled for wheat, barley, rye and oats.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

R parathion 4E    1/2-1 pt  .25-.5                                        15

REMARKS:  Do not use on rye.  Highly toxic.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  HESSIAN FLY
_______________________________________________________________________________

The following varieties have resistance to the dominant races of hessian fly 
found in South Carolina: Saluda, Coker 9766, Arthur 71, McNair 1003, Pioneer 
2550, Pioneer 2551, Pioneer 2555, Stacy, Compton, Massey and Williams.  No 
chemical control is needed with these varieties.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  HESSIAN FLY (cont)
________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R disulfoton
    DI-SYSTON 15G  5-6.5 lb .75-1.0    Apply 1.1-1.4 oz Di-Syston 15G/
                (7"rows)               1,000 drill feet in furrow.
                                       This treatment is recommended 
                                       for fly-susceptible varieties 
                                       of wheat planted before Nov. 20.
                                       This treatment also controls 
                                       aphids.  Some phytotoxicity (tip
                                       burning) may occur.

REMARKS:  Do not apply to rye.  Do not graze within 75 days.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  HESSIAN FLY (cont)
________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R phorate 
    THIMET 20G    5.0       1.0        Apply 1.2 oz Thimet 20G/1,000
                                       drill feet in-furrow.  This is
                                       equal to 1 lb active ingredient 
                                       per acre on 8" rows.  This 
                                       treatment recommended for 
                                       susceptible wheat varieties 
                                       planted before Nov. 20.  Some 
                                       temporary phytotoxicity may occur.

REMARKS:  Do not feed or graze within 45 days.  Labeled for wheat only.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl                  1.0-1.5
    SEVIN 80S     1 1/4-1 3/4 lb       Treat if population reaches   0 (forage)
    SEVIN XLR     1-1 1/2 qt           2/drill foot.                 21 (grain)

REMARKS:  Only labeled for wheat.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R methyl parathion          .5
    4EC           1 pt
    6EC           2/3 pt                                                  15
    8EC           1/3 pt
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  ARMYWORM (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl                  .22                                            7
    LANNATE 1.8   1 pt
    NUDRIN 1.8    1 pt

REMARKS:  Do not graze within 10 days.  Labeled for rye, barley, oats, wheat.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FALL ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
               FORMULATION/   LB                                      LAST APPL
PESTICIDE          AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION              TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl                  .22-.33    Treat if stand is threatened        7
    LANNATE 1.8   1-1 1/2 pt           before frost.
    NUDRIN 1.8    1-1 1/2 pt

REMARKS:  Do not graze within 10 days.  Labeled for rye, barley, oats, wheat.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SORGHUM WEED CONTROL                              
-DOC-
                              SORGHUM WEED CONTROL
                  E. C. Murdock, Extension Weed Scientist and
                       B. J. Gossett, Research Agronomist

READ THE HERBICIDE LABEL BEFORE USE

Rates given for preplant incorporated and preemergence treatments are for 
COARSE- to MEDIUM-TEXTURED SOILS.
SORGHUM - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E            8.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.25 pt         l.5 to 2.25

REMARKS:   Annual  grasses,  small-seeded  broadleaf  weeds,  yellow  nutsedge.
SORGHUM SEED MUST BE TREATED BY THE SEED COMPANY WITH CONCEP.  Incorporate to a 
depth of 2 inches within l4 days before planting.  DUAL may be used on grain or 
forage sorghums.  If treated crop is lost,  corn, cotton, soybeans, peanuts, or 
grain or forage sorghum treated  with  Concep  may  be  replanted  immediately.
Barley, oats, rye, or wheat may be planted 4.5 months after application.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SORGHUM - PREEMERGENCE 
-DOC-
SORGHUM - PREEMERGENCE 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E            8.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.25 pt         l.5 to 2.25

REMARKS:   Annual  grasses,  small-seeded  broadleaf  weeds,  yellow  nutsedge.
SORGHUM SEED MUST BE TREATED BY THE SEED COMPANY WITH CONCEP.  DUAL may be used 
on  grain  or  forage  sorghums.  DUAL  8E  may be tank-mixed with MILOGARD for 
improved control of broadleaf weeds.  If treated crop is  lost,  corn,  cotton, 
soybeans,  peanuts,  or  grain  or  forage  sorghum  treated with Concep may be 
replanted immediately.  Barley, oats,  wheat,  or rye may be planted 4.5 months 
after application.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SORGHUM - PREEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LASSO              4.0 lb/gal               2.5 to 3.0 qt          2.5 to 3.0

REMARKS:  Annual  grasses,  small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  SORGHUM SEED MUST BE 
TREATED BY THE SEED COMPANY WITH SCREEN.  LASSO may be used for weed control in 
grain sorghum (milo).  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MILOGARD 4L or     4.0 lb/gal               2.0 qt                   
MILO-PRO 4L                                                         2.0

MILOGARD MAXX 90   90% dispersible granule  2.2 lb 

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds.  Apply at planting or immediately 
after.  Do not use on sands or loamy sands.  Cotton,  soybeans,  or corn may be 
planted l2 months after application.  Do not plant other crops  for  l8  months 
after treatment.  MILOGARD AND MILO-PRO may be used in grain sorghum (milo) and 
sweet sorghum.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
-END-
-DOC-
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SORGHUM - MINIMUM TILLAGE - PREEMERGENCE
-DOC-
SORGHUM - MINIMUM TILLAGE - PREEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E            8.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.25 pt         l.5 to 2.25
  +                                            +                        +
ROUNDUP or         4.0 lb/gal               l.5 qt or              l.5  or

R GRAMOXONE SUPER  l.5 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.5 pt          0.28 to 0.47

REMARKS: ROUNDUP or GRAMOXONE SUPER will provide control of existing vegetation 
at  planting.  DUAL  will  provide  residual  control  of  annual  grasses  and 
small=seeded broadleaf weeds.  SORGHUM SEED MUST BE TREATED BY THE SEED COMPANY 
WITH  CONCEP.  Apply  at  planting  or  immediately after.  Use the low rate of 
GRAMOXONE SUPER if weeds are less than 4 inches tall,  and  the  high  rate  if 
weeds are 4 to 6 inches tall.  Control of weeds greater than 6 inches in height 
may  be  unsatisfactory.  If GRAMOXONE SUPER is used add 8 oz X-77 Spreader/l00 
gals spray solution.  This treatment may be used for weed control in  grain  or 
forage sorghums.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
SORGHUM - MINIMUM TILLAGE - PREEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BRONCO             4.0 lb/gal               3.0 to 4.0 qt          3.0 to 4.0
                   (2.6 alachlor +                       (2.0 to 2.6 alachlor +
                   l.4 glyphosate)                      l.0 to l.4 glyphosate)

REMARKS:  BRONCO  is  a  package  mixture  of  alachlor  (LASSO)  +  glyphosate 
(ROUNDUP).  Glyphosate  will  control  existing  vegetation  at  planting,  and 
alachlor  will  provide  residual  control  of  annual grasses and small-seeded 
broadleaf weeds.  SORGHUM SEED MUST BE TREATED BY THE SEED COMPANY WITH SCREEN.
Apply at planting or immediately after.  BRONCO may be used for weed control in 
grain sorghum (milo).  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SORGHUM - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
-DOC-
SORGHUM - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AATREX 80W,        80% wettable powder        l.5 lb or
ATRAZINE 80W or

AATREX 4L, ATRAZINE 4L or  4.0 lb/gal         l.2 qt or             l.2

AATREX NINE-0      90% dispersible granule    l.3 lb
    +
OIL

REMARKS:  Broadleaf weeds.  Apply after sorghum reaches the  3-leaf  stage  and 
before  weeds reach 4 inches in height.  Add l qt oil concentrate/ac for ground 
applications.  Do not use on sands or loamy sands.  Do not rotate to  any  crop 
except  corn  or sorghum until the following year.  If applied after June l0 do 
not follow with crops other than corn or sorghum the next year.  Do  not  plant 
SORGHUM - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Continued)

tobacco,  vegetables,  spring-seeded  small grains,  or small-seeded legumes or 
grasses the year following application.  Atrazine may be used for postemergence 
weed control in grain and forage sorghums, and sorghum-sudan hybrids.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SORGHUM - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2,4-D              3.8 to 4.0 lb/gal        0.66 to l.0 pt         0.3 to 0.5
(several trade names)

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds.  Sorghum is not as tolerant to 2,4-D as corn.
Apply over-the-top when sorghum is 6 to 8 inches tall.  If sorghum is 8  to  l5 
inches  tall  apply  as  a directed spray to minimize contact with the foliage.
Use the low rate if sorghum is growing under conditions of high  soil  moisture 
and  high air temperature.  Do not apply during the boot,  tasseling,  or early 
dough stages.  Avoid drift to susceptible crops such as  tobacco,  cotton,  and 
soybeans.  Several  companies  are  marketing  2,4-D.  REFER  TO THE INDIVIDUAL 
PRODUCT LABEL FOR DIRECTIONS CONCERNING ITS USE FOR WEED CONTROL IN SORGHUM.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SORGHUM - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BANVEL             4.0 lb/gal               0.5 pt                 0.25

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds.  Apply after sorghum is in the  3-leaf  stage 
but   before   sorghum   exceeds   8   inches   in   height.   Make   only  one 
application/season.  Do not graze or feed  treated  sorghum  forage  or  silage 
prior to mature grain stage.  Avoid drift to susceptible crops such as tobacco, 
soybeans,  and  cotton.  BANVEL  may  be used for weed control in grain sorghum 
(milo).  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BASAGRAN           4.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.0 pt          0.75 to l.0

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds,  yellow nutsedge (refer to label for  maximum 
weed  heights).  Use a minimum of 20 gal water/ac and at least 40 psi pressure.
BASGRAN may be used for weed control in grain sorghum.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SORGHUM - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ME4 BROMINAL       4.0 lb/gal               0.5 to 0.75 pt
                                                                   0.25 + 0.38
BUCTRIL            2.0 lb/gal               l.0 to l.5 pt

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds.  May not provide  adequate  pigweed  control.
Apply  before  weeds  exceed the 2- to 4-leaf stage--refer to label for maximum 
weed heights.  Apply to sorghum from the 3- to 4-leaf stage  up  to  l4  inches 
tall.  Thorough  spray  coverage is essential.  Do not apply when grain sorghum 
foliage is wet.  Do not feed or graze within 30 days after application.  Do not 
plant a rotational crop until  the  following  use  season.  ME4  BROMINAL  and 
BUCTRIL may be used for weed control in grain sorghum.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SORGHUM - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREFLAN E.C.       4.0 lb/gal               0.75 to l.0 pt         0.38 to 0.5

REMARKS:  Annual  and  perennial  grasses  from seed.  Will not control emerged 
grasses.  Apply  after  sorghum  reaches  8  inches  in  height  up  to  layby.
Cultivate  before application to destroy emerged weeds and to cover the base of 
grain sorghum plants with soil.  TREFLAN must  be  incorporated  within  24  hr 
after  application  using  a  sweep-type  or  rolling  culitvator.  Apply  as a 
directed spray if sorghum foliage interferes with uniform  application  to  the 
soil surface.  TREFLAN may be used for weed control in grain sorghum.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SORGHUM - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
-DOC-
SORGHUM - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED    
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2,4-D              3.8 or 4.0 lb/gal        l.0 pt                 0.5
(several trade names)

REMARKS: Annual broadleaf weeds.  Apply to sorghum 8 to l5 inches tall.  Do not 
apply during the boot,  tasseling,  or early dough  stages.  Prevent  drift  to 
susceptible crops such as cotton, tobacco, and soybeans.  Several companies are 
marketing 2,4-D.  REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL PRODUCT LABEL FOR DIRECTIONS.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BANVEL             4.0 lb/gal               0.5 pt                 0.25

REMARKS:  Annual  broadleaf  weeds.  Apply  after  sorghum is 8 inches tall and 
before it reaches l5 inches in height.  Make only  one  application/season.  Do 
not graze or feed treated sorghum, forage, or silage before mature grain stage.
Prevent  drift  to  susceptible  crops such as cotton,  tobacco,  and soybeans.
BANVEL may be used for weed control in grain sorghum (milo).  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SORGHUM - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED    
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LOROX L, LINEX 4L or  4.0 lb/gal            l.0 to 2.0 pt          0.5 to l.0

LOROX DF         50% dispersible granule    l.0 to 2.0 lb

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds up to 4 inches  tall.  Apply  when 
sorghum is at least l2 inches tall.  If sprayer is equipped with skids,  shoes, 
or shields,  use the low rate when sorghum is l2 inches tall and weeds  do  not 
exceed  2 inches in height.  Use l.0 to 2.0 lb or pt/ac if sorghum is l5 inches 
tall and weeds are 2 to 4 inches in height.  If boom drops are used  apply  l.0 
to 2.0 lb or pt/ac when sorghum is at least l8 inches tall and weeds are 2 to 4 
inches  in  height.  Add  l.0  pt  Surfactant WK/25 gal spray solution.  Do not 
graze or feed plants to livestock within 3 months after application.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SORGHUM - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED    
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R GRAMOXONE SUPER   l.5 lb/gal              l.5 to 2.5 pt          0.28 to 0.47

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds.  Apply as a directed spray  after 
sorghum  is at least l2 inches tall.  Add Spreader (nonionic) at l.0 qt/l00 gal 
spray solution.  Do not exceed 30 psi.  Use the low rate for weeds less than  2 
inches  tall.  Do  not  spray  higher  than  3  inches  on  the sorghum stalks.
GRAMOXONE SUPER may be used for weed control in grain sorghum.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
SORGHUM - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED    
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREFLAN E.C.       4.0 lb/gal               0.75 to l.0 pt         0.38 to 0.5

REMARKS:  Annual and perennial  grasses  from  seed.  Will  not  cover  emerged 
grasses.  Apply  after  sorghum  reaches  8  inches  in  height  up  to  layby.
Cultivate before application to destroy emerged weeds and to cover the base  of 
grain  sorghum  plants  with  soil.  TREFLAN  must be incorporated within 24 hr 
after application  using  a  sweep-type  or  rolling  cultivator.  Apply  as  a 
directed  spray  if  sorghum foliage interferes with uniform application to the 
soil surface.  TREFLAN may be used for weed control in grain sorghum.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SORGHUM - HERBICIDE INFORMATION
-DOC-
SORGHUM - HERBICIDE INFORMATION

For  information  only.   Use  of  trade  names  does  not  imply  preferential 
endorsement  nor  discrimination  against similar products with different trade 
names.  

COMMON NAME        TRADE NAME(S)        FORMULATION(S)          COMPANY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
alachlor           LASSO                4.0 lb/gal              Monsanto
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
alachlor + glyphosate  BRONCO           2.6 + l.4 lb/gal        Monsanto
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
atrazine           AATREX 80W           80% wettable powder     Ciba-Geigy
                   AATREX 4L            4.0 lb/gal              Ciba-Geigy
                   AATREX NINE-0       90% dispersible granule  Ciba-Geigy
                   ATRAZINE 80W         80% wettable powder     DuPont
                   ATRAZINE 4L          4.0 lb/gal              Ciba-Geigy,
                                                                 DuPont
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bentazon           BASAGRAN             4.0 lb/gal              BASF
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SORGHUM - HERBICIDE INFORMATION

COMMON NAME        TRADE NAME(S)        FORMULATION(S)         COMPANY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bromoxynil         ME4 BROMINAL         4.0 lb/gal             Rhone-Poulenc
                   BUCTRIL              2.0 lb/gal             Rhone-Poulenc
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
dicamba            BANVEL               4.0 lb/gal             Sandoz
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate         ROUNDUP              4.0 lb/gal             Monsanto
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
linuron            LOROX L              4.0 lb/gal             DuPont
                   LOROX DF          50% dispersible granule   DuPont
                   LINEX 4L             4.0 lb/gal             Griffin
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
metolachlor        DUAL 8E              8.0 lb/gal             Ciba-Geigy
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat           GRAMOXONE SUPER      l.5 lb/gal             ICI
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SORGHUM - HERBICIDE INFORMATION

COMMON NAME        TRADE NAME(S)        FORMULATION(S)         COMPANY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
propazine          MILOGARD 4L          4.0 lb/gal             Ciba-Geigy
                   MILOGARD MAXX 90   90% dispersible granule  Ciba-Geigy
                   MILO-PRO 4L          4.0 lb/gal             Griffin 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
trifluralin        TREFLAN E.C.         4.0 lb/gal             Elanco
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2,4-D              FORMULA 40, WEEDAR,  3.8 to 4.0 lb/gal      Vertac, Rhone- 
                   WEEDONE, DACAMINE,                           Poulenc, 
                   (many others)                                Fermenta, 
                                                                others 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SORGHUM INSECT CONTROL                            
-DOC-

                            SORGHUM INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist

INSECT:  CORN EARWORM, FALL ARMYWORM, SORGHUM WEBWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  carbaryl                     1.5-2.0     Spraying caterpillars in  21 (grain)
    SEVIN 80%                              whorl-stage sorghum is    0 (forage)
     Sprayable     1.87-2.5 lb             seldom economically feas- 
    SEVIN 50W      3-4 lb                  ible.  Heads should be 
    SEVIN 4F       3-4 pt                  protected if caterpillars
                                           average two/head.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R parathion 4E     1 pt        0.5         Same as carbaryl.             12

REMARKS:  May cause leaf injury on some hybrid varieties.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  CORN EARWORM, FALL ARMYWORM, SORGHUM WEBWORM (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE L-                      Same as carbaryl.             14
    NUDRIN 1.8     1-2 pt      0.23-0.45
    LANNATE -
     NUDRIN 90     0.25-0.5 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  chlorpyrifos                 0.5         One application/season.       28
    LORSBAN 4E     1 pt

REMARKS:  Do not apply after the flowering period.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  SORGHUM MIDGE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  carbaryl                     1.5         Sorghum midge is a much   21 (grain)
    SEVIN 80%                              greater problem on late
     Sprayable     1.87 lb                 planted sorghum.  Timing  0 (forage)
    SEVIN 50W      3 lb                    of insecticide applica-
    SEVIN 4F       3 pt                    tion is critical if damage 
                                           is to be prevented. Observe 
                                           heads closely for adult 
                                           midge activity 9-12 a.m. 
                                           during the period that  
                                           florets are present.  If 
                                           adults can be found, make 
                                           two to three applications 
                                           of insecticide at 3 to 
                                           4-day intervals. There is 
INSECT:  SORGHUM MIDGE (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  carbaryl (cont)                          no need for control after
                                           blooming.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  dimethoate 
    CYGON 400      0.5 pt      0.25        Thorough coverage is          28
                                           necessary.
REMARK:  Do not exceed three applications/season.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  chlorpyrifos                 0.25        Apply when 20% of seed        28
    LORSBAN 4E     0.5 pt                  heads are in bloom and
                                           midge adults are present.

REMARKS:  Do not exceed three applications.  Do not apply after the flowering
          period.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  SORGHUM MIDGE (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl                     0.225-0.45  Same as carbaryl.             14
    LANNATE L- 
     NUDRIN 1.8  1-2 pt
    LANNATE -
     NUDRIN 90     0.25-0.5 lb
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

R parathion 4E     0.5 pt      0.25        Same as carbaryl.             12

REMARKS:  Leaf burn may occur on some hybrid varieties.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion 4E     0.5-1.0 pt  0.25-0.5    Thorough coverage of          12
                                           infested plants is
                                           necessary.

REMARKS:  Leaf burn may occur on some hybrid varieties.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  dimethoate 
    CYGON 400      0.5-1.0 pt  0.25-0.5    Thorough coverage is          28
                                           necessary.

REMARKS:  Do not exceed three applications/season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  LESSER CORNSTALK BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
                 FORMULATION/     LB                                 LAST APPL
PESTICIDE             AC        AI/AC           APPLICATION          TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  diazinon                     2.0         Apply in a narrow band         0
    DIAZINON AG500 2 qt                    over the row at planting
    DIAZINON 50W   4 lb                    and incorporate lightly.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  chlorpyrifos                 0.5         Apply in 8- to 12-in band     28
    LORSBAN 4E     1 pt                    over center of row.

REMARKS:  Do not apply after flowering period.  

    LORSBAN 15G    12 oz/1,000             Apply in a 6- to 8-in band    --
                   row ft                  behind planter shoe, in 
                                           front of press wheel.
REMARKS:  Planting time application.  One application/season.
______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CHINCH BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________

R carbofuran       6-8oz/       1.0        Apply in furrow or in         75
    FURADAN 15G    1,000 row               band at planting.
                   ft
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SORGHUM DISEASE CONTROL                              
-DOC-
                              SORGHUM DISEASE CONTROL
                     R. W. Miller, Extension Plant Pathologist

_______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE           CHEMICAL                  FORMULATION           RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Seed treatment    metalaxyl
for seed decay,     APRON 25W                Slurry or mist    2 oz/100 lb seed
seedling blight,  captan + 
smut (Pythium,      CAPTAN 400F   (4 lb/gal) Slurry        1.75-4.5/100 lb seed
Fusarium,           CAPTAN 400D Fl(4 lb/gal) Slurry        1.75-4.5/100 lb seed
Helminthosporium,   CAPTAN 75W               Slurry            3 oz/100 lb seed
Colletotrichum,
Sclerospora)

REMARKS: Do not use treated seed for food or feed. Follow manufacurer's label
carefully. Apron may be applied with other fungicides or insecticides.
Since seedling disease is most often a complex, best to use seed treated with
metalaxyl and a broad spectrum material such as captan, PCNB or thiram. Resis-
tance is a potential threat to metalaxyl. When failures occur, submit samples
to Plant Problem Clinic. Wear dust masks & protective clothing as indicated by
label. Consult label to be sure product may be used on previously treated seed.
                           SORGHUM DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)
_______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE           CHEMICAL                  FORMULATION           RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Seed treatment    PCNB + ethazol
(CONT)              TERRACOATE L205         Slurry             2 oz/100 lb seed
                    TERRACLOR SUPERX 20-5   Slurry or planter
                                               box          6-12 oz/100 lb seed
                  thiram
                    THIRAM 30FLO            Slurry          13.5 oz/400cc/100 
                                                                        lb seed
                    THIRAM 50WP             Slurry or planter
                                               box           2.7 oz/100 lb seed
REMARKS: Do not use treated seed for food or feed. Follow manufacurer's label
carefully. Apron may be applied with other fungicides or insecticides.
Since seedling disease is most often a complex, best to use seed treated with
metalaxyl and a broad spectrum material such as captan, PCNB or thiram. Resis-
tance is a potential threat to metalaxyl. When failures occur, submit samples
to Plant Problem Clinic. Wear dust masks & protective clothing as indicated by
label. Consult label to be sure product may be used on previously treated seed.
                           SORGHUM DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)
_______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE           CHEMICAL                  FORMULATION           RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Nematodes      R  TEMIK 15G                 Granular       7 lb/ac or 
                                                           7.5 oz/1000 ft of
                                                                          row.*

*Based on 36-in row spacing.

REMARKS: Follow label instructions carefully. Apply granules in seed furrow and
cover with soil. Do not make more than one application per year. Do not harvest
within 90 days of application and do not feed green forage to livestock. No
banding or incorporation needed.

R - Some or all uses or this product are restricted.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEAN WEED CONTROL                              
-DOC-
                              SOYBEAN WEED CONTROL
                    E. C. Murdock, Extension Weed Scientist
                   and B. J. Gossett, Research Weed Scientist

                      READ THE HERBICIDE LABEL BEFORE USE

            RATES GIVEN FOR PREPLANT AND PREEMERGENCE TREATMENTS ARE
                     FOR COARSE- TO MEDIUM-TEXTURED SOILS.
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED

RATES GIVEN ARE FOR COARSE- TO MEDIUM-TEXTURED SOILS
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE              FORMULATION          PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREFLAN E.C.,          4.0 lb/gal*         1.0 to 2.0 pt           0.5 to 1.0 
TRILIN                                           or                    or
                                           2.0 to 3.0 pt           1.0 to 1.5 

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and some small-seeded broadleaf  weeds,  johnsongrass; 
poor control of large-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Use 2.0 to 3.0 pt/ac for rhizome 
johnsongrass  control  (2 consecutive years needed for effective control).  For 
better pigweed control use 1.5 pt/ac on coarse-textured soils and 2.0 pt/ac  on 
medium-textured  soils.  For  best  results,  incorporate  2  to  3 inches deep 
immediately;  TREFLAN or Trilin must be incorporated one time within  24  hours 
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
TREFLAN E.C., TRILIN - (CONTINUED)

after application.  Cross disc for best results.  To broaden  the  spectrum  of 
weeds  controlled,  TREFLAN  may  be  tank-mixed with SENCOR,  LEXONE,  CANOPY, 
SCEPTER,  COMMAND,  or VERNAM.  TRILIN may be tank-mixed with SENCOR or LEXONE.
To  reduce  costs  compared  to  a broadcast preplant incorporated application, 
SENCOR, LEXONE,  CANOPY,  or SCEPTER may be applied on a band as a preemergence 
treatment.  

* A 5.0 lb/gal formulation of TREFLAN is also available for bulk purchasing.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL                 4.0 lb/gal           1.0 to 2.0 pt            0.5 to 1.0 
                                               or                        or
                                           2.0 to 3.0 pt            1.0 to 1.5 
REMARKS:  Annual  grasses and some small-seeded broadleaf weeds,  johnsongrass; 
poor control of large-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Use 2.0 to 3.0 pt/ac for rhizome 
johnsongrass control (2 consecutive years needed for  effective  control).  For 
better  pigweed control use 1.5 pt/ac on coarse-textured soils and 2.0 pt/ac on 
medium-textured soils.  Incorporate to a depth of 1 to 2 inches within  7  days 
after  application.  Cross  disc  for best results.  To broaden the spectrum of 
weeds controlled,  PROWL may be  tank-mixed  with  SENCOR,  LEXONE,  CANOPY  or 
SCEPTER.  To  reduce  costs  compared  to  a  broadcast  preplant  incorporated 
application, SENCOR, LEXONE, CANOPY,  and SCEPTER may be applied on a band as a 
preemergence  treatment.  Wheat  and barley may be planted in the fall 120 days 
after application of PROWL,  except where high  rates  were  used  for  rhizome 
johnsongrass  control.  Do not feed forage or graze livestock for 75 days after 
planting wheat or barley on treated land.  
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC) 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
SONALAN E.C.          3.0 lb/gal           l.5  to 2.5 pt          0.56 to 0.94 

REMARKS: Annual grasses and some small-seeded broadleaf weeds;  poor control of 
large-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Incorporate to a depth of 2 to 3 inches within 2 
days  after  application.  Cross disc for best results.  SONALAN may be applied 
up to 3 weeks before planting.  To broaden the spectrum  of  weeds  controlled, 
SONALAN may be tank-mixed with SENCOR,  LEXONE,  CANOPY,  SCEPTER,  COMMAND, or 
VERNAM.   To  reduce  costs  compared  to  a  broadcast  preplant  incorporated 
application,  SENCOR, LEXONE, CANOPY, and SCEPTER may be applied on a band as a 
preemergence treatment.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
DUAL 8E or            8.0 lb/gal            1.5 to 2.5 pt or       1.5 to 2.5 

DUAL 25G              25% granules          6.0 to l0.0 lb

REMARKS: Annual grasses and some small-seeded broadleaf weeds, yellow nutsedge; 
poor  control  of large-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Incorporate uniformly into the 
top 1 to 2 inches of soil.  DUAL may be applied up to 14 days before  planting.
To  broaden  the  spectrum of weeds controlled,  DUAL 8E may be tank-mixed with 
SENCOR, LEXONE,  CANOPY,  or SCEPTER.  DUAL alone or in these tank mixtures may 
be  applied  as  a  preemergence  treatment.  To  reduce  costs  compared  to a 
broadcast preplant incorporated application, SENCOR, LEXONE, CANOPY, or SCEPTER 
may be applied on a band as a preemergence treatment.  If the crop treated with 
DUAL is lost,  corn,  cotton,  soybeans,  peanuts,  or grain or forage  sorghum 
treated with Concep may be replanted immediately.  Barley, oats, rye, and wheat 
may be planted 4.5 months after application.
_______________________________________________________________________________  \$
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                      RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
COMMAND 4 EC          4.0 lb/gal           2.0 to 2.5 pt           1.0 to 1.25 
                                                                
REMARKS:  Excellent control of most annual grasses and velvetleaf;  control  of 
other broadleaf weeds (especially pigweed) is generally poor.  Incorporate to a 
depth  of 1 to 3 inches immediately after application.  Velvetleaf is extremely 
sensitive to COMMAND,  and COMMAND can be used  at  reduced  rates  in  a  tank 
mixture  with  TREFLAN  or  SONALAN  for  economical control of annual grasses, 
small-seeded broadleaf weeds, and velvetleaf.  Off-site movement of spray drift 
or vapor can cause foliar whitening or  yellowing  of  some  plants.  Prior  to 
application   read   and   strictly  follow  all  precautions  and  application 
instructions on the label.  Do not  apply  COMMAND  within  1000  feet  of  the 
following  areas:  towns  and  subdivisions,  commercial  vegetable production, 
commercial fruit  production,  commercial  nurseries,  commercial  greenhouses.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                      RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
COMMAND 4 EC (continued)

Corn,  sorghum,  peanuts,  cotton,  and  tobacco  may be planted 9 months after 
application.  Do not rotate to small grains in the fall of the year of  COMMAND 
application.  Cover crops may be planted, but cannot be grazed or used for feed 
or forage.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                      RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
VERNAM 7-E            7.0 lb/gal           2.33 to 3.0 pt          2.0 to 2.6 

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and small-seeded broadleaf weeds,  purple  and  yellow 
nutsedge;   control   of   large-seeded  broadleaf  weeds  is  generally  poor.
Incorporate to a depth of 2 to 3 inches immediately after  application.  VERNAM 
may be tank-mixed with PROWL,  SONALAN,  TREFLAN,  or TRILIN for improved full-
season control of annual grasses and small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  The  VERNAM 
+  TREFLAN  tank  mix  may  also  be  used for control of rhizome johnsongrass.
_______________________________________________________________________________  \$
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                      RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
REWARD                6.0 lb/gal           2.67 to 3.33 pt         2.0 to 2.5 

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and small-seeded broadleaf weeds,  purple  and  yellow 
nutsedge;   control   of   large-seeded  broadleaf  weeds  is  generally  poor.
Incorporate to a depth of 2 to 3 inches immediately after  application.  REWARD 
may  be  tank-mixed  with  TREFLAN or PROWL for improved full-season control of 
annual grasses and small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  The REWARD + TREFLAN tank mix 
may    also    be    used    for    control    of     rhizome     johnsongrass.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                      RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
SENCOR 4              4.0 lb/gal            0.5 to 0.75 pt        
or LEXONE 4L
  or                                             or               0.25 to 0.38
SENCOR DF or          75% dry flowable or   0.33 to 0.5 lb
LEXONE DF             dispersible granule

REMARKS:  Use  is  recommended  primarily  for sicklepod and Florida beggarweed 
control.  However,  SENCOR and LEXONE will control other annual  weeds.  SENCOR 
and  LEXONE  alone  are not registered for preplant incorporated application in 
soybeans.  However,  they may be tank-mixed and applied  preplant  incorporated 
with TREFLAN,  PROWL,  SONALAN, or DUAL.  There are restrictions concerning the 
texture and organic matter content of soils where SENCOR and LEXONE are  to  be 
used.  Refer  to  the  respective product label(s) for specific use directions.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
SENCOR or LEXONE  - (CONTINUED)

Coker 156 and Asgrow 6520 are extremely sensitive to metribuzin -  do  not  use 
SENCOR  or  LEXONE  where  these varieties are to be grown.  Soybean injury may 
occur if SENCOR or LEXONE are used in  conjunction  with  soil-applied  organic 
phosphate pesticides,  or if heavy rains occur soon after application.  Treated 
vines may be grazed or fed to livestock 40 days after application  when  SENCOR 
or LEXONE are applied with TREFLAN,  DUAL,  or PROWL.  Do not use treated vines 
for feed or forage when SENCOR or LEXONE are applied with SONALAN.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                      RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
SCEPTER               l.5 lb/gal            0.5 to 0.67 pt         0.09 to 0.l3

REMARKS:  Broadleaf weeds;  control of grasses  is  generally  poor,  therefore 
SCEPTER should be applied preplant incorporated in a tank mixture with TREFLAN, 
TRILIN,  SONALAN, PROWL, or DUAL.  Incorporate SCEPTER uniformly into the top 1 
to 2 inches of soil.  On sands and loamy  sands,  0.5  pt/ac  can  be  used  if 
pigweed  and  cocklebur  are the only problem weeds.  Otherwise use 0.67 pt/ac.
SCEPTER may be applied up to 30 days before planting.  For  adequate  sicklepod 
control,  SCEPTER  must  be  used  as a sequential treatment (i.e.  preplant or 
preemergence application followed by a postemergence  application).  To  reduce 
costs compared to a broadcast preplant incorporated application, SCEPTER may be 
applied  on  a band as a preemergence treatment.  Small grains may be planted 4 
months after application;  corn, peanuts,  and tobacco may be planted 11 months 
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
SCEPTER (CONTINUED)

after  application.  Refer to latest label revision for rotational restrictions 
concerning cotton.  Do not plant other rotational  crops  prior  to  18  months 
after  the  last  SCEPTER  application.  Only  rotational  crops  harvested  at 
maturity may be used for feed or food.  Do not graze or  feed  treated  soybean 
forage, hay, or straw to livestock.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                       RECOMMENDED RATE 
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC           AI (LB/AC) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
CANOPY        75% dispersible granule       6.0 to 12.0 oz       0.28 to 0.56
             (64.3% metribuzin                                   (0.24 to 0.48 
                                                                  metribuzin
                     +                                                 +
              l0.7% chlorimuron)                                 
                                                                  0.04 to 0.08
                                                                  chlorimuron)

REMARKS:  Broadleaf weeds;  grass control is generally poor,  therefore  CANOPY 
should be applied preplant incorporated in a tank mixture with TREFLAN,  PROWL, 
SONALAN,  or DUAL.  Use 6 to 10 oz/ac  on  coarse-textured  soils.  Incorporate 
uniformly  to  a  depth  of  2 inches.  To reduce costs compared to a broadcast 
preplant incorporated application,  CANOPY may  be  applied  on  a  band  as  a 
preemergence  treatment.  Do not use CANOPY on sands or on soils with less than 
0.5% organic matter.  Coker 156 and Asgrow  6520  are  extremely  sensitive  to 
metribuzin - do not use CANOPY where these varieties are to be grown.  Soybean 
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________

CANOPY (CONTINUED)

injury  may  occur  if  CANOPY is used in conjunction with soil-applied organic 
phosphate  pesticides.   Wheat  and  barley  may  be  planted  4  months  after 
application;   corn,   cotton,  &  sorghum  may  be  planted  10  months  after 
application;  peanuts may be planted 12 months after application.  Other  crops 
may  be  planted after 30 months and following a successful field bioassay.  Do 
not graze treated fields or harvest for forage or hay.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEAN - PREPLANT
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                       RECOMMENDED RATE 
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC           AI (LB/AC) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
SALUTE 4EC         4.0 lb/gal               l.5 to 2.25 pt       0.75 to l.l3
                (2.67 trifluralin                                (0.5 to 0.75
                                                                  trifluralin
                         +                                              +
                l.33 metribuzin)                                  0.25 to 0.37
                                                                  metribuzin)

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds, sicklepod,  and Florida 
beggarweed.  Use  is recommended primarily in fields where sicklepod or Florida 
beggarweed are a problem.  SALUTE is a package mixture of trifluralin (TREFLAN) 
+ metribuzin (SENCOR).  For best results,  incorporate to a depth of  2  inches 
immediately  after application.  SALUTE must be incorporated one time within 24 
hours after application.  Do not use on sands with less than 1% organic matter, 
SOYBEAN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
SALUTE 4EC (CONTINUED)

or on other soils with less than 0.5% organic  matter.  Coker  156  and  Asgrow 
6520  are  extremely  sensitive  to  metribuzin - do not use SALUTE where these 
varieties are to be grown.  Soybean injury may  occur  if  SALUTE  is  used  in 
conjunction  with soil-applied organic phosphate pesticides,  or if heavy rains 
occur soon after application.  Barley and wheat may be planted 4  months  after 
application.  Cotton  may be planted 8 months after application.  Treated vines 
may be fed to livestock 40 days after application.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEAN - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE 
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC           AI (LB/AC) 
_______________________________________________________________________________
SQUADRON           2.33 lb/gal                  3.0 pt             0.87
                (2.0 pendimethalin +                      (0.75 pendimethalin +
                 0.33 imazaquin)                             0.12 imazaquin)

REMARKS:  Annual  grasses,  broadleaf  weeds.  SQUADRON is a package mixture of 
pendimethalin (PROWL) + imazaquin (SCEPTER).  Incorporate  uniformly  into  the 
top  l  to  2  inches of soil within 7 days after application.  SQUADRON may be 
applied up to 30 days before planting.  Small grains may be  planted  4  months 
after application;  corn, grain sorghum, peanuts, and tobacco may be planted ll 
months after  application;  refer  to  latest  label  revision  for  rotational 
restrictions  concerning  cotton.  Do not plant other rotational crops prior to 
l8 months after application.  Do not graze or feed treated soybean forage, hay, 
or straw  to livestock.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED HERBICIDE MIXTURES
-DOC-
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED HERBICIDE MIXTURES

Herbicide  mixtures  are  often  needed  to  broaden  the  spectrum  of   weeds 
controlled.  They may also improve crop tolerance and reduce potential rotation 
problems  by  allowing  use  of lower rates while maintaining satisfactory weed 
control.  Cultivation and/or  postemergence  treatments  may  be  necessary  to 
provide  adequate  full-season weed control.  Recommended preplant incorporated 
herbicide mixtures are listed  below.  Refer  to  remarks  for  the  individual 
herbicides for information concerning each product in these mixtures.  

l.  TANK MIXTURES

2.  PACKAGE MIXTURES
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED TANK MIXTURES

DUAL 8E + CANOPY        
     Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 2.0 pt  +  6.0 to 12.0 oz
      Active Ingredient/Ac:  1.25 to 2.0  +  0.28 to 0.56 lb

TREFLAN E.C. + CANOPY        
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 1.5 pt  +  6.0 to 12.0 oz
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75  +  0.28 to 0.56 lb

SONALAN E.C. + CANOPY        
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 2.5 pt  +  6.0 to 12.0 oz
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.47 to 0.94  +  0.28 to 0.56 lb

PROWL + CANOPY
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.0 to 2.0 pt + 6.0 to l2.0 oz
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to l.0 + 0.28 to 0.56 lb

TREFLAN E.C. + SCEPTER  
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 1.5 pt  +  0.5 to 0.67 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75  +  0.09 to 0.l3 lb

TRILIN + SCEPTER
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.0 to l.5 pt + 0.5 to 0.67 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75 + 0.09 to 0.13 lb

PROWL + SCEPTER  
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 2.0 pt  +  0.5 to 0.67 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 1.0  +  0.09 to 0.13 lb
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED TANK MIXTURES

SONALAN E.C. + SCEPTER  
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 2.5 pt  +  0.5 to 0.67 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.47 to 0.94  +  0.09 to 0.13 lb

DUAL 8E + SCEPTER  
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 1.5 pt  +  0.5 to 0.67 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  1.25 to 1.5  +  0.09 t0 0.13 lb

TREFLAN E.C. + SENCOR DF OR LEXONE DF    
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 1.5 pt + 0.33 to 0.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb

TRILIN + SENCOR DF OR LEXONE DF
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.0 to l.5 pt + 0.33 to 0.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb

TREFLAN E.C. + SENCOR 4 OR LEXONE 4L    
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 1.5 pt + 0.5 to 0.75 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb

TRILIN + SENCOR 4 OR LEXONE 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.0 to l.5 pt + 0.5 to 0.75 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb

PROWL + SENCOR DF OR LEXONE DF    
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 2.0 pt + 0.33 to 0.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 1.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED TANK MIXTURES

PROWL + SENCOR 4 OR LEXONE 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 2.0 pt + 0.5 to 0.75 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 1.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb
 
SONALAN E.C. + SENCOR DF OR LEXONE DF
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 2.5 pt + 0.33 to 0.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.47 to 0.94 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb

SONALAN E.C. + SENCOR 4 OR LEXONE 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 2.5 pt + 0.5 to 0.75 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.47 to 0.94 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb

DUAL 8E + SENCOR DF OR LEXONE DF
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 2.0 pt + 0.33 to 0.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  1.25 to 2.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb
 
DUAL 8E + SENCOR 4 OR LEXONE 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 2.0 pt + 0.5 to 0.75 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  1.25 to 2.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED TANK MIXTURES
 
TREFLAN E.C. + REWARD
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 1.5 pt + 2.67 to 3.33 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75 + 2.0 to 2.5 lb
 
PROWL + REWARD
    Formulated Product/Ac:  0.75 to 1.0 pt + 2.0 to 3.33 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.38 to 0.5 + 1.5 to 2.5 lb
 
TREFLAN E.C. + VERNAM 7-E
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 1.5 pt + 2.33 to 3.0 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75 + 2.0 to 2.6 lb

TRILIN + VERNAM 7-E
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.0 to l.5 pt + l.75 to 3.0 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75 + l.5 to 2.6

SONALAN E.C. + VERNAM 7-E
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 2.5 pt + 2.33 to 3.0 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.47 to 0.94 + 2.0 to 2.6 lb
 
PROWL + VERNAM 7-E
    Formulated Product/Ac:  0.75 to 1.0 pt + 1.75 to 2.33 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.38 to 0.5 + 1.5 to 2.0 lb
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED TANK MIXTURES

TREFLAN E.C. + COMMAND 4 EC
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 1.5 pt + 0.75 to 1.13 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75 + 0.38 to 0.56 lb

SONALAN E.C. + COMMAND 4 EC
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 2.5 pt + 0.75 to 1.13 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.47 to 0.94 + 0.38 to 0.56 lb
SOYBEANS - PREPLANT INCORPORATED PACKAGE MIXTURES

SALUTE
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.25 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.75 to l.l3 lb

SALUTE is a package mixture of TREFLAN + SENCOR.  See recommendation for SALUTE 
under SOYBEANS-PREPLANT INCORPORATED.

SQUADRON
    Formulated Product/Ac:  3.0 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.87

SQUADRON is a package mixture of PROWL + SCEPTER.  See recommendation for 
SQUADRON under SOYBEANS-PREPLANT INCORPORATED.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE 
-DOC-
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE 
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL                 4.0 lb/gal            1.0 to 2.0 pt           0.5 to 1.0 

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and small-seeded  broadleaf  weeds;  poor  control  of 
large-seeded  broadleaf weeds.  PROWL generally provides better weed control if 
preplant-incorporated, and is labeled and recommended for preemergence use only 
when applied in tank mixtures with SENCOR, LEXONE,  SCEPTER,  or CANOPY.  Wheat 
and  barley may be planted in the fall 120 days after application of PROWL.  Do 
not feed forage or graze livestock for 75 days after planting wheat  or  barley 
on treated land.  
______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
SURFLAN A.S. or       4.0 lb/gal            1.5 to 2.0 pt or     
                                                                   0.75 to l.0 
SURFLAN DRY           85% dry flowable      0.9 to l.2 lb       
 FLOWABLE

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and small-seeded  broadleaf  weeds;  poor  control  of 
large-seeded  broadleaf  weeds.  To  broaden  the spectrum of weeds controlled, 
SURFLAN A.S. may be tank-mixed with SENCOR, LEXONE, CANOPY or SCEPTER.  SURFLAN 
DRY FLOWABLE may be tank-mixed with SENCOR,  LEXONE,  or SCEPTER.  Do not  feed 
forage from treated fields to livestock.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
LASSO,                4.0 lb/gal            2.0 to 3.0 qt          2.0 to 3.0
LASSO MICRO-TECH

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and small-seeded  broadleaf  weeds;  poor  control  of 
large-seeded  broadleaf  weeds  and  Texas panicum.  To broaden the spectrum of 
weeds controlled,  LASSO may be tank-mixed with  SENCOR,  LEXONE,  SCEPTER,  or 
CANOPY.                                                                  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE 
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
DUAL 8E or            8.0 lb/gal            1.5 to 2.5 pt            
                                                                   l.5 to 2.5
DUAL 25G              25% granule           6.0 to 10.0 lb  

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and small-seeded  broadleaf  weeds;  poor  control  of 
large-seeded  broadleaf  weeds  and  Texas panicum.  To broaden the spectrum of 
weeds controlled, DUAL 8E may be tank-mixed with SENCOR,  LEXONE,  SCEPTER,  or 
CANOPY.  If  the  crop  treated  with  DUAL is lost,  corn,  cotton,  soybeans, 
peanuts,  and grain or forage sorghum treated  with  Concep  may  be  replanted 
immediately.  Barley,  oats,  rye,  and  wheat  may be planted 4.5 months after 
application.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE 
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
SENCOR 4 or           4.0 lb/gal            0.5 to 0.75 pt        
LEXONE 4L                                                          0.25 to 0.38
  or                                             or
SENCOR DF or     75% dry flowable or        0.33 to 0.5 lb
LEXONE DF        dispersible granule

REMARKS:  Use is recommended primarily for  sicklepod  and  Florida  beggarweed 
control.  However,  SENCOR and LEXONE will control other annual weeds.  Control 
of grasses is generally poor.  Therefore,  SENCOR  or  LEXONE  should  be  used 
following  a  preplant incorporated herbicide such as TREFLAN,  TRILIN,  PROWL, 
DUAL, or SONALAN,  or in a preemergence tank mix with LASSO,  DUAL,  PROWL,  or 
SURFLAN.  When  possible,  banded applications are recommended to reduce costs.
There are restrictions concerning texture and organic matter content  of  soils 
where  SENCOR  or  LEXONE  are  to  be  used.  Refer  to the respective product 
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE 
_______________________________________________________________________________
SENCOR or LEXONE (continued)

label(s) for specific use directions.  Coker 156 and Asgrow 6520 are  extremely 
sensitive to metribuzin - do not use SENCOR or LEXONE where these varieties are 
to be grown.  Soybean injury may occur if used in conjunction with soil-applied 
organic  phosphate pesticides,  or if heavy rains occur soon after application.
Treated vines may be grazed or fed to  livestock  40  days  after  application.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
SCEPTER               l.5 lb/gal            0.5 to 0.67 pt         0.09 to 0.l3

REMARKS:  Broadleaf  weeds;  control  of grasses is generally poor.  Therefore, 
SCEPTER should be used following a  preplant  incorporated  herbicide  such  as 
TREFLAN,  TRILIN,  PROWL,  DUAL, or SONALAN, or in a preemergence tank mix with 
LASSO, DUAL, PROWL or SURFLAN.  For adequate sicklepod control, SCEPTER must be 
used as a sequential  treatment  (i.e.  preplant  or  preemergence  application 
followed by a postemergence application).  On sands and loamy sands,  0.5 pt/ac 
can be used if pigweed and cocklebur are the only problem weeds.  Otherwise use 
0.67 pt/ac.  When possible,  banded  applications  are  recommended  to  reduce 
costs.  Small grains may be planted 4 months after application;  corn, peanuts, 
and tobacco may be planted 11 months after  application.  Refer  to  label  for 
rotational restrictions concerning cotton.  Do not plant other rotational crops 
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE
_______________________________________________________________________________

SCEPTER (continued)

prior  to  18 months after the last SCEPTER application.  Only rotational crops 
harvested at maturity may be used for food  or  feed.  Do  not  graze  or  feed 
treated soybean forage, hay, or straw  to livestock.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CANOPY              75% dispersible         6.0 to 12.0 oz       0.28 to 0.56 
                      granule                                   (0.24 to 0.48 
                   (64.3% metribuzin                              metribuzin
                      +                                               +
                   10.7% chlorimuron)                            0.04 to 0.08
                                                                 chlorimuron)

REMARKS:  Broadleaf weeds;  control of grasses is  generally  poor.  Therefore, 
CANOPY  should  be  used  following  a  preplant incorporated herbicide such as 
TREFLAN, TRILIN, PROWL,  DUAL,  or SONALAN,  or in a preemergence tank mix with 
LASSO,  DUAL,  PROWL,  or  SURFLAN.  Use  6.0  to 10.0 oz/ac on coarse-textured 
soils.  When possible, banded applications are recommended to reduce costs.  Do 
not use CANOPY on sands, or on soils with less than 0.5% organic matter.  Coker 
156 and Asgrow 6520 are extremely sensitive to metribuzin - do not  use  CANOPY 
where  these  varieties are to be grown.  Soybean injury may occur if CANOPY is 
used in conjunction with soil-applied organic phosphate pesticides.  
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE
_______________________________________________________________________________
CANOPY (continued)

Wheat and barley may be planted 4 months after application;  corn, cotton, and 
sorghum may be planted 10 months after application;  peanuts may be planted 12 
months  after  application.  Other  crops  may  be planted after 18 months and 
following a successful field bioassay.  Do not graze treated fields or harvest 
for forage or hay.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TURBO 8EC             8.0 lb/gal            1.5 to 2.0 pt          1.5 to 2.0 
                    (6.55 metolachlor                   (l.2 to 1.6 metolachlor
                        +                                    +
                    l.45 metribuzin)                   0.27 to 0.36 metribuzin) 

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds, sicklepod,  and Florida 
beggarweed.  Use  is recommended primarily in fields where sicklepod or Florida 
beggarweed are a problem.  TURBO is a package mixture of metolachlor  (DUAL)  + 
metribuzin (SENCOR).  Do not use on sands with less than 1.0% organic matter or 
on  other  soils with less than 0.5% organic matter.  Coker 156 and Asgrow 6520 
are extremely sensitive to metribuzin - do not use TURBO where these  varieties 
are to be grown.  Soybean injury may occur if TURBO is used in conjunction with 
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE
_______________________________________________________________________________
TURBO 8EC (continued)

soil-applied  organic  phosphate  pesticides or if heavy rains occur soon after 
application.  Wheat and barley may be planted 4.5 months after application  but 
cannot be grazed or harvested for food or feed.  Corn and cotton may be planted 
8 months after application.  Treated vines may be grazed or fed to livestock 40 
days after application of TURBO.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SQUADRON             2.33 lb/gal             3.0 pt                 0.87
                (2.0 pendimethalin +                      (0.75 pendimethalin +
                  0.33 imazaquin)                             0.l2 imazaquin)

REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  broadleaf weeds.  SQUADRON is a package  mixture  of 
pendimethalin  (PROWL)  +  imazaquin  (SCEPTER).  Apply  during or up to 2 days 
after planting.  Small grains may be planted 4 months after application;  corn, 
grain sorghum, peanuts, and tobacco may be planted ll months after application; 
refer  to  latest label revision for rotational restrictions concerning cotton.
Do not plant other rotational crops prior to l8 months  after  application.  Do 
not graze or feed treated soybean forage, hay, or straw to livestock.  
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE HERBICIDE MIXTURES
-DOC-
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE HERBICIDE MIXTURES

     Herbicide tank mixtures or package mixtures are often  needed  to  broaden 
the  spectrum  of  weeds  controlled.  They  may also improve crop tolerance or 
reduce potential rotation  problems  by  allowing  use  of  lower  rates  while 
maintaining   satisfactory  weed  control.   Cultivation  and/or  postemergence 
treatments may be necessary  to  provide  adequate  full-season  weed  control.
Recommended preemergence herbicide mixtures are listed below.  Refer to remarks 
for  the individual herbicides for information concerning each product in these 
mixtures.  

        l.  TANK MIXTURES

        2.  PACKAGE MIXTURES 
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES

LASSO + CANOPY        
     Formulated Product/Ac:  1.5 to 2.0 qt  +  6.0 to 12.0 oz
      Active Ingredient/Ac:  1.5 to 2.0  +  0.28 to 0.56 lb

DUAL 8E + CANOPY        
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 1.5 pt  +  6.0 to 12.0 oz
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  1.25 to 1.5  +  0.28 to 0.56 lb

PROWL + CANOPY        
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 1.5 pt  +  6.0 to 12.0 oz
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75  +  0.28 to 0.56 lb

SURFLAN A.S. + CANOPY
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.0 to 2.0 pt + 6.0 to l2.0 oz
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to l.0 + 0.28 to 0.56 lb

LASSO + SCEPTER
    Formulated Product/Ac:  2.0 qt  +  0.5 to 0.67 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  2.0 + 0.09 to 0.l3 lb
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES

DUAL 8E + SCEPTER  
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 1.5 pt  +  0.5 to 0.67 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  1.25 to 1.5  +  0.09 to 0.l3 lb

PROWL + SCEPTER
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 2.0 pt + 0.5 to 0.67 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 1.0 + 0.09 to 0.l3 lb

SURFLAN A.S. + SCEPTER
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.0 pt + 0.5 to 0.67 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 + 0.09 to 0.l3

SURFLAN DRY FLOWABLE + SCEPTER
    Formulated Product/Ac:  0.6 lb + 0.5 to 0.67 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 + 0.09 to 0.l3 lb

LASSO or LASSO MICRO-TECH + SENCOR DF or LEXONE DF    
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.5 to 2.0 qt + 0.33 to 0.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  1.5 to 2.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES

LASSO or LASSO MICRO-TECH + SENCOR 4 or LEXONE 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.5 to 2.0 qt + 0.5 to 0.75 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  1.5 to 2.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb
 
DUAL 8E + SENCOR DF OR LEXONE DF
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 2.0 pt + 0.33 to 0.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  1.25 to 2.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb
 
DUAL 8E + SENCOR 4 OR LEXONE 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.25 to 2.0 pt + 0.5 to 0.75 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  1.25 to 2.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb
 
PROWL + SENCOR DF or LEXONE DF
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 2.0 pt + 0.33 to 0.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 1.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb

PROWL + SENCOR 4 or LEXONE 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 2.0 pt + 0.5 to 0.75 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 1.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE PACKAGE MIXTURES

SURFLAN A.S. + SENCOR DF or LEXONE DF
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 2.0 pt + 0.33 to 0.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 1.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb

SURFLAN A.S. + SENCOR 4 or LEXONE 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 2.0 pt + 0.5 to 0.75 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to 1.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb

SURFLAN DRY FLOWABLE + SENCOR DF or LEXONE DF
    Formulated Product/Ac:  0.6 to l.2 + 0.33 to 0.5 lb
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to l.0 + 0.25 to 0.38 lb

SURFLAN DRY FLOWABLE + SENCOR 4 or LEXONE 4L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  0.6 to l.2 + 0.5 to 0.75 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.5 to l.0 + 0.25 to 0.30 lb
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE TANK MIXTURES

TURBO 8EC
    Formulated Product/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  l.5 to 2.0 lb

TURBO is a package mixture of DUAL + SENCOR.  See recommendation under SOYBEANS 
  PREEMERGENCE.  

SQUADRON
    Formulated Product/Ac:  3 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.87 lb

SQUADRON is a package mixture of PROWL  +  SCEPTER.  See  recommendation  under 
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE.  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEANS - MINIMUM TILLAGE 
-DOC-
SOYBEANS - MINIMUM TILLAGE 
______________________________________________________________________________

    Herbicides recommended for control of existing vegetation at planting.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R GRAMOXONE SUPER     l.5 lb/gal            1.5 to 2.5 pt          0.28 to 0.5

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds plus top-kill of some  perennials.
Use  the  high  rate if weeds are 4 to 6 inches tall.  Control of weeds greater 
than 6 inches in height may be poor.  Apply at planting or immediately after in 
20 to 60 gallons water/acre.  Add Spreader (nonionic) at 8 fl.  oz./100 gallons 
spray  solution  (in  some tank mixes a nonionic surfactant similar to Spreader 
may be used) - refer to  product  labels  for  specific  directions  concerning 
surfactant  use.  Control  of  horseweed  or eveningprimrose is generally poor. 
GRAMOXONE SUPER will provide top-kill of  bermudagrass  and  johnsongrass,  but 
control  is  generally  unsatisfactory.  GRAMOXONE  SUPER  provides no residual 
control.                                         
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
SOYBEANS - MINIMUM TILLAGE 
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ROUNDUP               4.0 lb/gal            l.0 to 1.5 qt         1.0 to 1.5 

REMARKS:  Annual grasses and broadleaf weeds.  Apply at planting or immediately 
after  in  10  to  40 gallons water/ac.  Use 1.0 qt/ac if weeds are less than 6 
inches tall and 1.5 qt/ac if  weeds  are  greater  than  6  inches  in  height.
ROUNDUP  tank  mixes  are  not  recommended  for  johnsongrass  or bermudagrass 
control.     ROUNDUP    does    not    provide    residual    weed     control.
________________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - MINIMUM TILLAGE 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
BRONCO                4.0 lb/gal            3.0 to 4.0 qt         3.0 to 4.0
                  (l.4 glyphosate                                (l.0 to l.4 
                                                                  glyphosate
                         +                                           +
                   2.6 alachlor)                                 2.0 to 2.6
                                                                  alachlor)

REMARKS:  BRONCO  is  a  package mixture of glyphosate and alachlor (the active 
ingredients of ROUNDUP and LASSO,  respectively).  Please refer to comments  on 
these herbicides for additional information.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE HERBICIDE MIXTURES FOR MINIMUM TILLAGE
-DOC-
SOYBEANS - PREEMERGENCE HERBICIDE MIXTURES FOR MINIMUM TILLAGE

    Herbicides  used  for  control  of  existing  vegetation  at  planting  are 
generally applied with residual herbicides to provide effective weed control in 
minimum  tillage  cropping  systems.  Recommended herbicide mixtures are listed 
below.  Refer  to  recommendations  under  SOYBEANS-PREEMERGENCE  or  SOYBEANS-
PREEMERGENCE  HERBICIDE  MIXTURES  for  rates  and other information concerning 
these treatments.  Rates are generally the same  for  conventional  or  reduced 
tillage cropping systems.  However, refer to label prior to use.  

      l.  TANK MIXTURES WITH GRAMOXONE SUPER

      2.  TANK MIXTURES WITH ROUNDUP

      3.  TANK MIXTURES WITH BRONCO
SOYBEANS - TANK MIXTURES WITH GRAMOXONE SUPER

The following herbicides or  herbicide  combinations  may  be  tank-mixed  with 
GRAMOXONE SUPER.  

   LASSO + CANOPY
   DUAL 8E + CANOPY
   SURFLAN A.S. + CANOPY
   LASSO + SCEPTER
   DUAL 8E + SCEPTER
   PROWL + SCEPTER
   SQUADRON
   LASSO + SENCOR DF, LEXONE DF, SENCOR 4, or LEXONE 4L
   DUAL 8E + SENCOR DF, LEXONE DF, SENCOR 4, or LEXONE 4L
   SURFLAN A.S. + SENCOR DF, LEXONE DF, SENCOR 4, or LEXONE 4L
   SURFLAN DRY FLOWABLE + SENCOR DF, LEXONE DF, SENCOR 4, or LEXONE 4L
   PROWL + SENCOR DF, LEXONE DF, SENCOR 4, or LEXONE 4L
   TURBO 8EC
SOYBEANS - TANK MIXTURES WITH ROUNDUP

The following herbicides or herbicide combinations may be tank-mixed ROUNDUP.  

   LASSO
   LASSO + CANOPY
   DUAL 8E + CANOPY
   SURFLAN A.S. + CANOPY
   LASSO + SCEPTER
   DUAL 8E + SCEPTER
   PROWL + SCEPTER
   SQUADRON
   LASSO + SENCOR DF, LEXONE DF, SENCOR 4, or LEXONE 4L
   DUAL 8E + SENCOR DF, LEXONE DF, SENCOR 4, or LEXONE 4L
   SURFLAN A.S. + SENCOR DF, LEXONE DF, SENCOR 4, or LEXONE 4L
   SURFLAN DRY FLOWABLE + SENCOR DF, LEXONE DF, SENCOR 4, or LEXONE 4L
   PROWL + SENCOR DF, LEXONE DF, SENCOR 4, or LEXONE 4L
   TURBO 8 EC
SOYBEANS - TANK MIXTURES WITH BRONCO

The following herbicides may be tank-mixed with BRONCO.

   CANOPY
   SCEPTER
   SENCOR DF or LEXONE DF
   SENCOR 4 or LEXONE 4L

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
-DOC-
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           FORMULATED
                                            PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
CLASSIC              25% dispersible        0.5 to 0.75 oz     0.0078 to 0.0117 
                      granule

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf  weeds  such  as  sicklepod,  pigweed,  morningglory 
species (except red morningglory),  cocklebur, cowpea;  yellow nutsedge.  Apply 
to young,  actively growing weeds.  Early application is essential for adequate 
weed control - refer to label for recommended weed growth stages.  Add 1 qt/100 
gallons  spray  solution  of  an EPA-approved surfactant of at least 80% active 
ingredient.  Do not use crop oil,  crop  oil  concentrate,  or  vegetable  oil.
Apply  in at least 10 gallons water/ac and use 25 to 40 psi pressure.  A timely 
cultivation 2 to 3 weeks after  treatment  will  often  help  provide  adequate 
season-long  weed  control.  If needed,  a second application of CLASSIC at 0.5 
oz/ac may be made 2 to 3 weeks after the initial application -  do  not  exceed 
1.0 oz/ac total CLASSIC per season.  Do not apply if rain is expected 
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           FORMULATED
                                            PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

CLASSIC (continued)

within 4 hours.  Cereal grains may be planted 3 months after application; corn, 
cotton, peanuts, and sorghum may be planted 9 months after application.  Do not 
graze treated fields or harvest for forage or hay.  CLASSIC may  be  tank-mixed 
with  BLAZER  to  improve  morningglory  control.  CLASSIC  may be applied with 
aerial equipment.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ _\$
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           FORMULATED
                                            PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
SCEPTER               l.5 lb/gal              0.67 pt                 0.l3

REMARKS:  Annual  broadleaf  weeds such as cocklebur and pigweed;  apply before 
these weeds exceed 12 inches in height.  SCEPTER will  also  control  sicklepod 
when  used  in  a  sequential  program  (i.e.  SCEPTER preplant incorporated or 
preemergence followed by a postemergence application of SCEPTER).  Apply before 
sicklepod exceeds the 1 to 2 true leaf stage.  Apply when  weeds  are  actively 
growing.  The  addition  of  a  nonionic  surfactant or crop oil concentrate is 
required.  The surfactant should contain at least  80%  active  ingredient  and 
should  be  applied  at  a rate of 2 pt/100 gal spray solution.  Apply crop oil 
concentrate according to label directions.  
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           FORMULATED
                                            PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
SCEPTER (cont.)

Apply in at least 20 gal water/acre and at up to  40  psi  pressure.  A  timely 
cultivation  2  to  3  weeks after application will often help provide adequate 
season-long weed control.  Wait at  least  10  days  after  application  before 
cultivating.  Small  grains  may  be planted 4 months after application;  corn, 
grain sorghum, peanuts,  or tobacco may be planted 11 months after application.
Refer  to  latest label revision for rotational restrictions concerning cotton.
Only rotational crops harvested at maturity may be used for feed  or  food.  Do 
not graze or feed treated soybean forage,  hay, or straw to livestock.  Scepter 
may be applied with aerial equipment.  SCEPTER may be tank-mixed with BLAZER to 
provide better morningglory control.   _______________________________________________________________________________ 
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           FORMULATED
                                            PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
BASAGRAN              4.0 lb/gal            1.5 to 2.0 pt          0.75 to 1.0 

REMARKS: Annual broadleaf weeds such as cocklebur, bristly starbur, jimsonweed, 
and smartweed;  yellow nutsedge.  Refer to the label for maximum weed  heights.
Apply  BASAGRAN  to  actively  growing  weeds.  Use  a  minimum  of  20 gallons 
water/acre and 40 psi pressure.  Use standard high  pressure  pesticide  hollow 
cone  or  flat  fan  nozzles  spaced 20 inches apart.  Do not use flood,  whirl 
chamber,  or controlled droplet applicator (CDA) nozzles.  Oil concentrate  may 
be  added  to  improve  control  of  weeds  such  as  coffee senna and ragweed.
Rainfall within 8 hours after application  may  nullify  the  effectiveness  of 
BASAGRAN.  BASAGRAN  may  be  applied  with  aerial equipment.  BASAGRAN may be 
tank-mixed  with  BLAZER  or  TACKLE  to  increase  control  of   pigweed   and 
morningglory.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           FORMULATED
                                            PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
BLAZER 2L             2.0 lb/gal            1.5 to 2.0 pt          0.38 to 0.5 

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds such as cocklebur, pigweed,  and morningglory.
Refer  to  the  label  for  recommended  weed growth stages.  Apply to actively 
growing weeds.  Apply in  a  minimum  of  20  gallons  water/acre  and  40  psi 
pressure.  Use  hollow  cone  or  flat  fan  nozzles.  Add  Triton  AG-98  or a 
comparable 80% active nonionic surfactant at 1.0  pt/100  gal  spray  solution.
Cultivation before or during application is not recommended.  If cultivation is 
necessary,  wait 7 to 10 days after application.  Rainfall within 6 hours after 
application may reduce control.  Do not use treated plants for feed or  forage.
BLAZER  may  be  applied  with aerial equipment.  BLAZER may be tank-mixed with 
BASAGRAN (to provide better cocklebur  control),  CLASSIC  (to  provide  better 
control  of  cocklebur,  sicklepod,  bristly starbur,  cowpea),  or SCEPTER (to 
provide better cocklebur control).  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE 0VER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           FORMULATED
                                            PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
REFLEX 2LC            2.0 lb/gal            1.0 to 1.5 pt         0.25 to 0.38

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds such as cocklebur, pigweed,  and morningglory.
Refer  to  the  label  for  recommended  weed growth stages.  Apply to actively 
growing weeds in a minimum of 10 gal water/ac and use 40 to  60  psi  pressure.
Use  only hollow cone or flat fan nozzles.  Add surfactant at 0.5 to 1.0 pt/100 
gal spray solution or crop oil concentrate at 1 qt/25  gallon  spray  solution.
Do not cultivate within 7 days prior to application.  Timely cultivation 2 to 3 
weeks after application may improve weed control.  Do not apply REFLEX beyond 2 
weeks after soybeans have emerged.  Do not exceed 1.5 pt/ac per season.  Do not 
apply  if  rainfall  is expected within 4 hours.  Do not graze treated areas or 
harvest for forage or hay.  Small grains such as wheat, barley,  and rye may be 
planted 4 months after application; cotton, corn, and peanuts may be planted 10 
months after application.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           FORMULATED
                                            PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
COBRA                 2.0 lb/gal            10.0 to 12.5 oz        0.16 to 0.2 

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds such as cocklebur, pigweed,  and morningglory.
Refer  to  the  label  for  recommended  weed growth stages.  Apply to actively 
growing weeds in 15 to 30 gal water/ac and use 40 to 60 psi pressure.  Use only 
hollow cone or flat fan nozzles.  Add 1.0 to 1.5 pt  surfactant/100  gal  spray 
solution.  COBRA may be applied with aerial equipment.  Do not cultivate within 
5  days  prior  to  application.  Rainfall  within 1 hour after application may 
reduce effectiveness.  Do not graze animals on green forage or stubble.  Do not 
utilize hay or straw for animal feed or bedding.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE 0VER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           FORMULATED
                                            PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
TACKLE                2.0 lb/gal            1.5 to 2.0 pt          0.38 to 0.5 

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds such as cocklebur, pigweed,  and morningglory.
Refer  to  the  label  for  recommended  weed growth stages.  Apply to actively 
growing weeds in 20 to 30 gallons water/acre and use 30  to  40  psi  pressure.
Use  hollow  cone  or flat fan nozzles.  Use a nonionic surfactant containing a 
minimum of 80% active  ingredient  at  a  rate  of  1.0  qt/100  gallons  spray 
solution.  Cultivation  before  or  during  application is not recommended.  If 
cultivation is necessary, wait 7 to 10 days after application.  Rainfall within 
6 hours after application may reduce control.  Do not use  treated  plants  for 
feed  or  forage.  Do  not  graze  rotated  cereal  grain  crops or harvest for 
livestock forage or straw.  TACKLE may be tank-mixed with BASAGRAN  to  improve 
cocklebur control.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           FORMULATED
                                            PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
POAST                 l.5 lb/gal              1.0 pt                 0.19 
 
REMARKS: Annual and perennial grasses - refer to the label for recommended weed 
growth stages.  Apply to actively  growing  grasses.  POAST  does  not  control 
sedges.  Apply  POAST  in  5  to  20  gallons  water/acre  and use 40 to 60 psi 
pressure.  Use standard  high  pressure  pesticide  hollow  cone  or  flat  fan 
nozzles.  Do  not  use flood,  whirl chamber,  or controlled droplet applicator 
(CDA) nozzles.  Add 2 pt/ac of non-phytotoxic oil concentrate.  For control  of 
johnsongrass or common bermudagrass, apply 1.5 pt/ac;  if regrowth occurs, make 
a subsequent application at 1.0 pt/ac.  A timely cultivation  may  prevent  the 
need for a second application.  Do not cultivate 5 days before or within 7 days 
after  application.  Do  not  apply if rainfall is expected within 1 hour after 
application.  Do not graze treated soybean  fields  and  do  not  feed  treated 
forage  (green succulent) or ensilage to livestock.  Treated soybean hay may be 
fed.  POAST may be applied with aerial equipment.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           FORMULATED
                                            PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
FUSILADE 2000         l.0 lb/gal            1.0 to 1.5 pt          0.13 to 0.19 

REMARKS:  Annual and perennial grasses;  does not control sedges.  Refer to the 
label  for  recommended weed growth stages.  Apply to actively growing grasses.
Apply in 5 to 40 gallons water/acre and use 40 to 60  psi  pressure.  Add  crop 
oil  concentrate  at 1.0 qt/25 gallons spray solution or nonionic surfactant at 
0.5 pt/25 gallons spray solution.  Use hollow cone or flat fan nozzles.  Do not 
cultivate within 7 days before or after application.  Rainfall  within  1  hour 
after  application may reduce control.  For johnsongrass and bermudagrass apply 
1.5 pt/ac;  if regrowth occurs, make a second application at 1.0 pt/ac.  Do not 
graze  or  harvest for forage or hay.  Fusilade 2000 may be applied with aerial 
equipment.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           FORMULATED
                                            PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
WHIP 1 EC             l.0 lb/gal             1.2 pt                    0.15 

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, johnsongrass.  WHIP will not control sedges or common 
bermudagrass.  Refer to the label for recommended weed growth stages.  Apply to 
actively   growing   grasses.   For   annual   grass   control  add  1  qt  oil 
concentrate/ac.  The addition of oil concentrate is not recommended for control 
of rhizome johnsongrass.  Apply in a minimum of 10 gallons water/ac,  and use a 
minimum  pressure of 40 psi.  Use hollow cone or flat fan nozzles.  For control 
of rhizome johnsongrass a second  application  at  0.8  pt/ac  may  be  needed.
However,  a timely cultivation may prevent the need for the second application.
Do not cultivate within 4 days before or after application.  Rainfall within  1 
hour  after  application  may  reduce  control.  Do  not  graze or feed treated 
forage, hay, or straw to livestock.  WHIP may be applied with aerial equipment. 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP HERBICIDE MIXTURES
-DOC-
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP HERBICIDE MIXTURES

     Herbicide tank mixtures or package mixtures may be needed to  broaden  the 
spectrum  of  weeds  controlled.   Cultivation  and/or  postemergence  directed 
treatments  may  be  necessary  to  provide   adequate   season-long   control.
Recommended postemergence over-the-top mixtures are listed below.  Refer to the 
remarks  for  individual  herbicides for information concerning each product in 
these mixtures.  

              l.  Tank Mixtures

              2.  Package Mixtures

SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP TANK MIXTURES

BASAGRAN + BLAZER 2L  
     Formulated Product/Ac:  1.0 to 2.0 pt  +  1.0 to 2.0 pt
      Active Ingredient:  0.5 to 1.0  +  0.25 to 0.5 lb

BASAGRAN + TACKLE       
    Formulated Product/Ac:  1.5 to 2.0 pt  +  1.0 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.75 to 1.0  +  0.25 lb

CLASSIC + BLAZER 2L   
    Formulated Product/Ac:  0.5 to 0.75 oz  +  1.5 to 2.0 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.008 to 0.012  +  0.38 to 0.5 lb

SCEPTER + BLAZER 2L
    Formulated Product/Ac:  0.67 pt + 1.5  to 2.0 pt
     Active Ingredient/Ac:  0.13 + 0.38 to 0.5 lb
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP PACKAGE MIXTURES
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
STORM                 4.0 lb/gal             1.5 pt                  0.75 
                   (2.67 lb bentazon                            (0.5 bentazon
                        +                                              +
                  1.33 lb acifluorfen)                        0.25 acifluorfen)

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds such as cocklebur, pigweed,  and morningglory.
Refer  to  the  label  for maximum weed heights.  STORM is a package mixture of 
bentazon (BASAGRAN) + acifluorfen (BLAZER).  Apply to actively growing weeds in 
a minimum of 20 gal water/ac and use at least 40 psi pressure.  Use hollow cone 
or flat fan nozzles.  STORM may be applied with aerial  equipment.  Cultivation 
before  or  during application is not recommended.  Add crop oil concentrate at 
1.0 pt/ac.  Rainfall within 8 hours after application may reduce weed  control.
Do    not    use    treated    soybean    plants    for    feed    or   forage.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP SALVAGE
-DOC-
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP SALVAGE
_______________________________________________________________________________

     These treatments are recommended for  salvage  applications  only.  2,4-DB 
may improve control of weeds such as cocklebur,  morningglory, and ragweed that 
exceed maximum heights on  the  BLAZER  or  BASAGRAN  labels.  However,  2,4-DB 
increases  crop injury and may reduce soybean yields.  Do not apply to drought-
stressed soybeans.  
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
BASAGRAN              4.0 lb/gal            l.5 to 2.0 pt          0.75 to l.0
   +                                           +                        +
BUTYRAC 200           2.0 lb/gal              2.0 oz                  0.03

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds.  2,4-DB will improve control  of  entireleaf, 
ivyleaf,  and tall morningglory.  Apply before morningglory vines exceed 6 inch 
length.  Use a minimum of 20 gal water/acre and a minimum of 40  psi  pressure.
Do  not  add  oil  or  other additives.  Refer to label for other restrictions.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP SALVAGE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
BLAZER 2L             2.0 lb/gal            1.5 to 2.0 pt          0.38 to 0.5 
  +                                             +                       +
BUTYRAC 200           2.0 lb/gal or            2.0 oz                  0.03
or BUTOXONE           l.75 lb/gal

REMARKS:  Annual broadleaf weeds.  Use for control of cocklebur,  morningglory, 
pigweed,  citron,  and ragweed that exceed the maximum stage of growth  on  the 
BLAZER  label.  Add 1.0 pt surfactant/100 gal spray solution.  Use a minimum of 
20 gal water/acre and a minimum of 40 psi pressure.  Refer to label  for  other 
restrictions.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE OVER-THE-TOP SALVAGE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                     RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
RESCUE                2.06 lb/gal           2.0 to 3.0 qt        1.03 to 1.55
                     (2.0 lb naptalam                      (1.0 to 1.5 naptalam
                       +                                          +
                     0.06 lb 2,4-DB)                      0.03 to 0.045 2,4-DB)

REMARKS: Annual broadleaf weeds such as cocklebur and morningglory.  Apply when 
soybeans are at least 14 inches tall.  Use 10 to 25 gal water/acre and 40 to 50 
psi pressure.  Add nonionic surfactant or crop oil concentrate at 2 qt/100 gal 
spray  solution.  Apply  RESUE at 3.0 qt/ac if weeds are taller than 12 inches.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
-DOC-
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED     
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
LOROX DF +         50% dispersible granule   l.0 lb                   0.5 
BUTYRAC 200           2.0 lb/gal             l3.2 oz                  0.2
  or                                          or
LOROX DF +         50% dispersible granule   l.0 lb                   0.5
BUTOXONE               l.75 lb/gal           l.0 pt                   0.2
  or                                           or
LOROX L +              4.0 lb/gal            l.0 pt                   0.5
BUTYRAC 200            2.0 lb/gal            l3.0 oz                  0.2
  or                                           or
LOROX L +              4.0 lb/gal            l.0 pt                   0.5
BUTOXONE               l.75 lb/gal           l.0 pt                   0.2
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
_______________________________________________________________________________

(CONTINUED)

REMARKS:  Broadleaf weeds up to 4 inches tall.  Apply as a directed spray  when 
soybeans  are  at  least  8  inches  tall.  Add  surfactant  according to label 
directions.  Do not apply to drought-stressed soybeans.  Do not feed forage  or 
hay to livestock.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED     
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
SENCOR 4 +            4.0 lb/gal            0.5 to l.0 pt          0.25 to 0.5
BUTYRAC 200           2.0 lb/gal               l3.0 oz                0.2
  or                                            or
SENCOR 4 +            4.0 lb/gal            0.5 to l.0 pt          0.25 to 0.5
BUTOXONE              l.75 lb/gal              l4.0 oz                0.2
  or                                            or
SENCOR DF +           75% dry flowable      0.33 to 0.66 lb        0.25 to 0.5
BUTYRAC 200           2.0 lb/gal               l3.0 oz                0.2
  or                                             or
SENCOR DF +           75% dry flowable      0.33 to 0.66 lb        0.25 to 0.5
BUTOXONE              l.75 lb/gal              l4.0 oz                0.2
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED     
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________

(CONTINUED)

REMARKS:  Annual  grasses  and broadleaf weeds.  Apply as a directed spray when 
soybeans are at least 8 inches tall and before weeds exceed 3 inch height.  Add 
surfactant according to label directions.  Do not use  on  metribuzin-sensitive 
soybean varieties (Coker 156, Asgrow 6520).  
_______________________________________________________________________________
SOYBEANS - POSTEMERGENCE DIRECTED SPRAY
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED     
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION           PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
R GRAMOXONE SUPER     l.5 lb/gal            5.33 to 10.67 oz      0.06 to 0.13

REMARKS:  Annual  grasses  and broadleaf weeds.  Apply as a directed spray when 
soybeans are at least 8 inches tall.  Apply in 20 gallons water/acre and do not 
exceed 30 psi pressure.  Add Spreader (nonionic) at 1 to 2 qt/100 gallons spray 
solution.  Do not graze treated areas or  feed  treated  forage  to  livestock.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEANS - HARVEST AID
-DOC-
SOYBEANS - HARVEST AID
_______________________________________________________________________________

                                                   RECOMMENDED RATE
                                           FORMULATED
HERBICIDE             FORMULATION          PRODUCT/AC            AI (LB/AC) 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R GRAMOXONE SUPER     l.5 lb/gal           11.0 to 21.0 oz       0.13 to 0.25
1.5 lb/gal

REMARKS: Harvest-aid to dessicate most weeds present at harvest time.  Use high 
rate for cocklebur.  Add 1.0 qt Spreader (nonionic) per 100 gal spray solution. 
Use 20 to 40 gallons water/acre if applied with ground equipment.  Use 2  to  5 
gallons water/acre if applied with aerial equipment.  Apply when soybean plants 
are mature - beans fully developed,  at least 50 % of leaves have dropped,  and 
remaining leaves are turning yellow.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEANS - HERBICIDE INFORMATION
-DOC-
SOYBEANS - HERBICIDE INFORMATION

For information only.  Use of  trade  names  does  not  indicate  preferential 
endorsement  nor  discrimination against similar products with different trade 
names.  


COMMON NAME     TRADE NAME(S)     FORMULATION(S)             COMPANY
==============================================================================
acifluorfen     BLAZER 2L         2.0 lb/gal                 BASF
                TACKLE            2.0 lb/gal                 RHONE-POULENC
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
alachlor        LASSO             4.0 lb/gal                 Monsanto
                LASSO MICRO-TECH  4.0 lb/gal                 Monsanto  
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
naptalam+2,4-DB  RESCUE           2.0 + 0.06 lb/gal          Uniroyal
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
bentazon        BASAGRAN          4.0 lb/gal                 BASF
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
bentazon +     
acifluorfen     STORM             2.67 + 1.33 lb/gal         BASF
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
COMMON NAME     TRADE NAME(S)     FORMULATION(S)             COMPANY
==============================================================================
chlorimuron     CLASSIC           25% dispersible granule    DuPont
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ethalfluralin   SONALAN E.C.      3.0 lb/gal                 Elanco
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
fenoxaprop      WHIP 1 EC         1.0 lb/gal                 Hoechst-Roussel
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
fluazifop       FUSILADE 2000     1.0 lb/gal                 ICI
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
fomesafen       REFLEX 2 LC       2.0 lb/gal                 ICI
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate      ROUNDUP           4.0 lb/gal                 Monsanto
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate +
alachlor        BRONCO            1.4 + 2.6 lb/gal           Monsanto
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
imazaquin       SCEPTER           1.5 lb/gal                 American Cyanamid
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
lactofen        COBRA             2.0 lb/gal                 PPG
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
COMMON NAME     TRADE NAME(S)     FORMULATION(S)             COMPANY
==============================================================================
linuron         LOROX L           4.0 lb/gal                 DuPont
                LOROX DF          50% dispersible granule    DuPont
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
metolachlor     DUAL 8E           8.0 lb/gal                 Ciba-Geigy
                DUAL 25G          25% granule                Ciba-Geigy
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
metolachlor +
metribuzin      TURBO 8EC         6.55 + 1.44 lb/gal         Mobay
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
metribuzin      LEXONE 4L         4.0 lb/gal                 DuPont
                LEXONE DF         75% dispersible granule    DuPont
                SENCOR 4          4.0 lb/gal                 Mobay
                SENCOR DF         75% dry flowable           Mobay
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
metribuzin +
chlorimuron     CANOPY            75% dispersible granule    DuPont
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
oryzalin        SURFLAN A.S.      4.0 lb/gal                 Elanco
            SURFLAN DRY FLOWABLE  85% dry flowable           Elanco
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
COMMON NAME     TRADE NAME(S)     FORMULATION(S)             COMPANY
==============================================================================
paraquat        GRAMOXONE SUPER   1.5 lb/gal                 ICI
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
pendimethalin   PROWL             4.0 lb/gal                 American Cyanamid
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
pendimethalin +
imazaquin       SQUADRON          2.0 + 0.33 lb/gal          American Cyanamid
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
sethoxydim      POAST             1.5 lb/gal                 BASF
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
trifluralin     TREFLAN E.C.      4.0 lb/gal                 Elanco
                TRILIN            4.0 lb/gal                 Griffin
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
trifluralin +
metribuzin      SALUTE 4EC        2.67 + 1.33 lb/gal         Mobay
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
2,4-DB          BUTYRAC 200       2.0 lb/gal                 Rhone-Poulenc
                BUTOXONE          1.75 lb/gal                Vertac
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
vernolate       VERNAM 7-E        7.0 lb/gal                 Stauffer
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
vernolate +     
extender        REWARD            6.0 lb/gal                 Stauffer
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
   --           COMMAND           4.0 lb/gal                 FMC
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEAN INSECT CONTROL                             
-DOC-

                             SOYBEAN INSECT CONTROL
                     Jay W. Chapin, Extension Entomologist

INSECT:  CORN EARWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  carbaryl                  0.75-1.25  After pods appear, treat when       0
    SEVIN 80S     1-1 1/2 lb           an average of two large ear-
    SEVIN XLR 4L  3/4-1 1/4 qt         worms (1/2 in or longer)/row
    SEVIN 4F      3/4-1 1/4 qt         ft are present.  On fully bloom-
                                       ing beans before pod set, treat
                                       if there are six worms/row ft.
                                       Defoliation should not exceed 
                                       15-20% after midbloom, 30% before
                                       midbloom.  Consider population 
                                       size, canopy density, and temper-
                                       ature in selecting a rate.
REMARKS:  Always read the label.
INSECT:  CORN EARWORM (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
R esfenvalerate
    ASANA 1.9EC   1 gal/    .019-.025  Same as above.                     21
                101-76 ac

REMARKS:  Do not feed or graze.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate               0.075-0.1  Same as above.                     21
    PYDRIN 2.4EC  1 gal/
                 24-32 ac

REMARKS:  Very toxic to fish.  Do not feed or graze.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

INSECT:  CORN EARWORM (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl                  0.17-0.28  After pods appear, treat when      14
    LANNATE 1.8                        an average of two large ear-
    NUDRIN 1.8    3/4-1 1/4 pt         worms (1/2 in or longer)/row
                                       ft are present.  On fully bloom-       
                                       ing beans before pod set, treat
                                       if there are six worms/row ft.
                                       Defoliation should not exceed 
                                       15-20% after midbloom, 30% before
                                       midbloom.  Consider population 
                                       size, canopy density, and temper-
                                       ature in selecting a rate.

REMARKS:  Always read the label.

INSECT:  CORN EARWORM (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
R permethrin
    AMBUSH 2E     1 gal/    0.075-0.1  Same as above.                     60
                20-27 ac
    POUNCE 3.2EC  1 gal/    0.075-0.1                                     60
                32-43 ac

REMARKS:  Very toxic to fish.  Do not feed or graze.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R thiodicarb
    LARVIN 3.2    1 gal/    .25-.4     Same as above.                     28
                13-8 ac
REMARKS:  Do not feed or graze.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  VELVETBEAN CATERPILLAR
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  carbaryl                  0.4-0.8    Velvetbean caterpillar is an        0
    SEVIN 80S     1/2-1 lb             easily controlled pest which
    SEVIN XLR     1-1 1/2 pt           may occur in very high numbers.
    SEVIN 4F      1-1 1/2 pt           Use higher rates only for 
                                       extreme populations.  Four to six
                                       large velvetbean caterpillars/ft
                                       are capable of causing significant
                                       defoliation.  Treat when defolia- 
                                       tion will exeed 15% after midbloom;
                                       30% before midbloom.  Heavy popula-
                                       tions may clip off pods after 
                                       defoliating a field.
REMARKS:  Always read the label.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  VELVETBEAN CATERPILLAR (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl                  0.11-0.22  Same as above.                     14
    LANNATE 1.8
    NUDRIN 1.8    1/2-1 pt

REMARKS:  Always read the label.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  VELVETBEAN CATERPILLAR (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
R fenvalerate               0.025-0.05 Pyrethroids (Ambush, Pounce,       21
    PYDRIN 2.4C   1 gal/               Pydrin) also provide residual
                 48-96 ac              control of velvetbean caterpillar
                                       (VBC) when applied earlier in the
                                       year for loopers or earworms. 
                                       When applied for VBC, pyrethroids
                                       have enough residual activity to 
                                       prevent the need for a second 
                                       treatment of this pest.

REMARKS:  Very toxic to fish.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  VELVETBEAN CATERPILLAR (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R permethrin                0.025.0.05 Same as above.                     60
    AMBUSH 2E    1 gal/
                40-80 ac
    POUNCE 3.2EC 1 gal/                                                   60
                64-128 ac

REMARKS: Very toxic to fish.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  VELVETBEAN CATERPILLAR (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R diflubenzuron             0.03       This is a preventive rate for      21
    DIMILIN W25   2 oz                 use only in high risk velvet- 
                                       bean caterpillar areas of the
                                       state.  Make application in mid-
                                       July or later for extended VBC
                                       control.  A rate of 2 oz can be 
                                       used on established populations
                                       of small larvae, but Dimilin is 
                                       slow acting and will not rapidly
                                       control large larvae like other
                                       recommended materials.

REMARKS:  Do not cut for hay or allow milk animals to graze.  Do not exceed
          two applications/season.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  VELVETBEAN CATERPILLAR (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methyl parathion          0.5-0.75   Use only when stink bugs are       20
    4EC        1-1 1/2 pt              also a problem.  May cause a
                                       later increase in worm problems.

REMARKS:  Do not graze within 20 days.  Do not exceed two applications/season.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

R thiodicarb
    LARVIN 3.2    1 gal/    .2                                            28
                  16 ac

REMARKS:  Do not feed or graze.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are retricted.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  GREEN CLOVERWORM
________________________________________________________________________________

Green cloverworms are beneficial in allowing early season buildup of insect 
diseases, predators, and parasites.  If control is necessary in combination 
with other defoliating pests, any of the recommended materials (Ambush, Asana, 
Lannate, Larvin, Nudrin, Orthene, Pounce, Pydrin, Sevin) will give good control 
at low rates.
________________________________________________________________________________
INSECT:  LOOPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R permethrin                0.075-0.1  Same defoliation thresholds as     60
    AMBUSH 2E     1 gal/               corn earworm and velvetbean
                 20-27 ac              caterpillar.  It takes six to
    POUNCE 3.2EC  1 gal/               eight large (1/2 in) loopers/ft    60
                 32-43 ac              to cause economically significant
                                       (15%) foliage loss.  Do not con-
                                       fuse small loopers with green 
                                       cloverworm.

REMARKS:  Do not exceed two applications.  Do not feed or graze livestock on 
          treated plants.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  LOOPER (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R thiodicarb
    LARVIN 3.2    1 gal/    .45-.75    Same as above.                     28
                 7-4.3 ac

REMARKS:  Do not feed or graze.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  BEET ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  acephate                  1.0        Same defoliation threshold as      14
    ORTHENE 75S   1 1/3 LB             loopers.  This pest is difficult
                                       to control when worms are large.

REMARKS:  Do not graze or cut vines for hay or forage.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R methomyl                  0.45       Same as above.                     14
    LANNATE 1.8   2 pt
    NUDRIN 1.8

REMARKS:  Always read the label
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  BEET ARMYWORM (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R thiodicarb
    LARVIN 3.2    1 gal/    .45-.6     Same as above.                     28
                 7-5.3 ac

REMARKS:  Do not feed or graze.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FALL ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl                  0.33       Same defoliation threshold as      14
    LANNATE 1.8   1 1/2 pt             velvetbean caterpillar.
    NUDRIN 1.8

REMARKS:  Always read the label.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  BEAN LEAF BEETLE, MEXICAN BEAN BEETLE, JAPANESE BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl                             Same defoliation threshold as       0
    SEVIN 80S     1 lb      0.8        velvetbean caterpillar.
    SEVIN XLR 4L  1 1/2 pt
    SEVIN 4F      1 1/2 pt
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  STINKBUG
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  
R methyl parathion          0.5        After pods appear, treat when      20
    4EC           1 pt                 stinkbugs reach one/row ft.
    2L PENNCAP-M  2 pt                 Methyl parathion may increase
                                       later velvetbean caterpillar
                                       problems.

REMARKS:  Do not graze within 20 days.  Do not exceed two applications/yr.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  STINKBUG (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  acephate                  1.0                                           14
    ORTHENE 75S   1 1/3 lb

REMARKS:  Do not graze or cut vines for hay or silage.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  GRASSHOPPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  
  carbaryl                                                                 0
    SEVIN 80S     2 lb      1.6
    SEVIN XLR 4L  1 1/2 qt  1.5
    SEVIN 4F      1 1/2 qt  1.5

REMARKS:  No limitations.
_______________________________________________________________________________

  acephate
    ORTHENE 75S   2/3 lb    0.5                                           14

REMARKS:  Do not graze or cut vines for hay or forage.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  THRIPS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  acephate                  0.19       Soybeans can tolerate heavy        14
    ORTHENE 75S   4 oz                 thrips populations.  Treat
                                       only if the stand is threathened.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  dimethoate                0.12       Same as above.                     21
    CYGON 4EC     1/4 pt

REMARKS:  Do not graze or feed within 5 days of application.
_______________________________________________________________________________
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  SPIDER MITE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  dimethoate                0.5        Spraying for earworms increases    21
    CYGON 4EC     1 pt                 the probability of mite problems.

REMARKS:  See Thrips.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  THREE-CORNERED ALFALFA HOPPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
  carbaryl                                                                 0
    SEVIN 80S     1/2-1 lb  0.4-0.8
    SEVIN XLR 4L  1-1 1/2 pt
    SEVIN 4F

REMARKS:  Always read the label.

INSECT:  LESSER CORNSTALK BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  chlorpyrifos                         RESCUE-When 10% of seedlings
    LORSBAN 15G  3.5-7.0 lb 0.5-1.0    show damage, apply 4E in 25        28
    LORSBAN 4E   1-1 1/2 pt 0.5-0.75   gal water in a 6 in band. Or
                                       apply 4-6 oz 15G/1,000 row ft
                                       in a 6 in band with light
                                       incorporation.
                                       AT PLANTING-Apply 6-8 oz 15G/
                                       1,000 row ft in a 6 to 8 in
                                       band over the row. Incorporate
                                       lightly with press wheel and
                                       drag chain or tines.

REMARKS:  Do not exceed 3 lb ai chlorpyrifos/season.  Do not graze or feed 
          forage to livestock within 5 days of treatment.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  LESSER CORNSTALK BORER (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
R DYFONATE 10G    5-10 lb   0.5-1.0    RESCUE-Examine seedlings when
  DYFONATE 20G    2.5-5 lb  0.5-1.0    there is a high risk of LCB 
  DYFONATE 4EC   1-1 1/2 pt 0.5-0.75   infestation (late planting on 
                                       dry soil, especially conventional 
                                       tillage behind grain). If 10% of 
                                       seedlings show damage, apply 4EC 
                                       in 25 gal water in a 6 in band.
                                       Or apply 6-9 oz 10G (3-5 oz 20G)/ 
                                       1,000 row ft in a 6 in band over 
                                       the row with light incorporation.
                                       AT PLANTING-Apply 9-12 oz 10G 
                                       (4.5-6 oz 20G)/1,000 row ft in 
                                       a 6-in band with light incorpor- 
                                       ation (drag chain or press wheel).
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUNFLOWER WEED CONTROL                             
-DOC-
                             SUNFLOWER WEED CONTROL
                    E. C. Murdock, Extension Weed Scientist

READ THE HERBICIDE LABEL BEFORE USE

For preplant incorporated and preemergence treatments rates given are for 
COARSE- to MEDIUM-TEXTURED SOILS.

SUNFLOWER - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREFLAN or         4.0 lb/gal               l.0 to l.5 pt          0.5 to 0.75
TRILIN             4.0 lb/gal

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Incorporate to a depth 
of  2  to 3 inches as soon as possible after application.  Must be incorporated 
one time within 24 hr after application.  Cross disc for best results.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SUNFLOWER - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL              4.0 lb/gal               l.0 to 2.0 pt          0.5 to l.0

REMARKS:  Annual grasses, small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Apply and incorporate 
to a depth of l to 2 inches within 7 days after application.  Cross disc for 
best results.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUNFLOWER - PREEMERGENCE
-DOC-
SUNFLOWER - PREEMERGENCE
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LASSO or           4.0 lb/gal               2.0 to 3.0 qt or
                                                                   2.0 to 3.0
LASSO II           l5% granule              20.0 to 26.0 lb         

REMARKS:  Annual grasses,  small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Apply after  planting 
and before emergence of crop or weeds.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUNFLOWER - PREHARVEST DESSICATION
-DOC-
SUNFLOWER - PREHARVEST DESSICATION
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R GRAMOXONE SUPER  l.5 lb/gal               3.0 to 5.0 pt          0.56 to 0.94

REMARKS:  Dessication of sunflower plants and weeds prior to  harvest.  May  be 
used  for  preharvest  dessication  in  oilseed  varieties  only.   Apply  when 
sunflower seeds reach physiological maturity  (35%  or  lower  seed  moisture). 
Harvest  7  to  2l days after application.  Add Spreader (nonionic) at l qt/l00 
gal spray solution.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
.LB:22 
-DOC-
.LB:22 
                            SUNFLOWER INSECT CONTROL
                     Jay W. Chapin, Extension Entomologist
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SUNFLOWER MOTH
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

  chlorpyrifos                         Treat when 20% of the heads        42
    LORSBAN 4E    1 pt      0.5        are blooming and moths or
                                       small worms are present.

REMARKS:  Do not graze in treated area.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INSECT:  SUNFLOWER MOTH (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate                          Same as above.                     28
    PYDRIN 2.4 EC 1 gal/    0.1
                  24 ac

REMARKS:  Do not feed treated forage or fodder to livestock.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

R methyl          1 qt      1.0        Same as above.                     30
    parathion 4EC

REMARKS:  Do not graze or feed treated crop.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CORN EARWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  carbaryl                             These materials are effective      60
    SEVIN 80S     2 lb                 on corn earworm, but control
    SEVIN XLR     1 1/2 qt  1.5        in sunflower is difficult be-
    SEVIN 4F      1 1/2 qt             cause the larvae are physically
                                       protected from sprays.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R fenvalerate                                                             28
    PYDRIN 2.4EC  1 gal/    0.1-0.15   Same as above.
                 24-18 ac

REMARKS:  Do not graze or feed treated crops.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  STINK BUGS, LEAF-FOOTED BUGS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
________________________________________________________________________________

R methyl          3/4 pt    .75                                           30
    parathion 4EC

REMARKS:  Do not graze or feed treated crops.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT: CARROT BEETLE
________________________________________________________________________________

There are not effective chemical treatments for this stand-reducing pest.  
Early planting (April) makes the plant more tolerant of feeding damage.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
                FORMULATION/   LB                                     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE           AC        AI/AC          APPLICATION             TO HARVEST
________________________________________________________________________________

  chlorpyrifos    1 1/2 pt  0.75       Check seedlings for damage and     42
    LORSBAN 4E                         presence of cutworm curled up
                                       under debris.  Treat if stand is
                                       threatened.  Use a high gallonage,
                                       coarse spray aimed at the base
                                       of plant.

REMARKS:  Do not graze or feed treated crop.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO WEED CONTROL	                              
-DOC-
                              TOBACCO WEED CONTROL	
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist
                     R. E. Currin, III, Research Agronomist	 
	
TOBACCO - PLANT BEDS                    READ THE HERBICIDE LABEL BEFORE USE
_____________________________________________________________________________	
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED                 
PESTICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_____________________________________________________________________________	
R DOW FUME,           98% ai                9.0 lb/100 sq yd       427.0	
  BROM-O-GAS, etc.

REMARKS: Hand application. Follow manufacturer's suggestions.	
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
R BROZONE,            68.6% ai              10.3 lb/100 sq yd      342.0
  BROM-0-SOL	

REMARKS: Machine application. Follow manufacturer's suggestions.	
Caution: Handle with care	
_____________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
TOBACCO - PLANT BEDS
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED                 
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
ENIDE 90W          90% wettable powder      1.7 oz/100 sq yd       4.6

REMARKS:  Controls annual grasses and some broadleaf weeds.  Apply at  seeding.
Do  not  mix  with  other  chemicals before application.  Do not substitute for 
gassing beds.  
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
-DOC-
TOBACCO - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED                 
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
PAARLAN E.C.       6.0 lb/gal               1.0 qt                 1.5

REMARKS:   Controls  annual  grasses  and  some  broadleaf  weeds.   Apply  and 
incorporate  to  a  depth of 2-3 inches.  PAARLAN must be incorporated one time 
within 8 hr after application.  When incorporating with a tandem disc, cut to a 
depth of 4-6 in and cross disc to get better incorporation before bedding.	 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL              4.0 lb/gal               1.5 to 2.0 pt          0.75 to 1.0 

REMARKS:  Controls annual grasses and some broadleaf weeds.  Apply and incorpo-
rate  to  a  depth of 2-3 in.  When incorporating with a tandem disc,  cut to a 
depth of 4-6 in and cross disc to get better incorporation before bedding.  Use 
low rate on sandy soils.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
TOBACCO - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                             FORMULATED                 
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
TILLAM 6-E         6.0 lb/gal               2.67 qt                4.0

REMARKS:  Controls  annual grasses and some broadleaf weeds plus suppression of 
nutsedge.  Apply and incorporate  immediately  to  a  depth  of  2-3  in.  When 
incorporating  with  a tandem disc,  cut to a depth of 4-6 in and cross disc to 
get  better  incorporation  before  bedding.   Bed  up  immediately   following 
incorporation.  Do  not delay transplanting any longer than necessary since the 
chemical only lasts about 6 wk.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
TOBACCO - PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED                 
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
DEVRINOL 50-WP     50% wettable powder      2.0 lb                 1.0

REMARKS:  Controls annual grasses and some broadleaf weeds.  Apply and incorpo-
rate  to  a  depth of l-2 in.  When incorporating with a tandem disc,  cut to a 
depth of 2-4 in and cross disc to  get  better  incorporation  before  bedding.
Small grain planted in the fall may be damaged.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO - AFTER TRANSPLANTING
-DOC-
TOBACCO - AFTER TRANSPLANTING
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED                 
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
ENIDE 90W          90% wettable powder      4.4 lb                 4.0

REMARKS:  Controls  annual  grasses  and  some  broadleaf weeds.  Apply band or 
broadcast over top at time of transplanting or  immediately  after  transplant-
ing.  If no rain occurs within a few days after application, a light irrigation 
or shallow cultivation may be necessary.  If application is made 2  days  after 
transplanting,  a  shallow  cultivation  before application is necessary.  Some 
damage to small grain planted in the fall may occur if band application is  not 
used.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOBACCO - AFTER TRANSPLANTING
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED                 
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
DEVRINOL 50-WP     50% wettable powder      2.0 lb                 1.0

REMARKS:  Broadcast or apply a band over row immediately  after  transplanting.
Use  20-50  gal of water/ac as broadcast basis.  If no rain occurs within a few 
days after application,  irrigation or a shallow cultivation may be  necessary.
Some damage to small grain planted in the fall may occur if band application is 
not used.  
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO - LAYBY
-DOC-
TOBACCO - LAYBY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED                 
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
ENIDE 90W          90% wettable powder      4.4 lb                 4.0

REMARKS: Controls annual grasses and some broadleaf weeds.  Apply a band to the 
soil surface in row middles just behind the layby  cultivation.  Do  not  apply 
more  than 8.8 lb of Enide 90W during a growing season.  Small grain planted in 
the fall may be damaged.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SURFLAN A.S. or    4.0 lb/gal               l.0 to 2.0 pt or        0.5 to l.0
SURFLAN DRY        85% dry flowable         0.6 to l.2 lb
  FLOWABLE

REMARKS:  Controls annual grasses and some broadleaf  weeds.  Band  application 
should  be  made  immediately  following  the last (layby) cultivation.  Direct 
spray using drop nozzles to row middles.  Do not spray  on  tobacco  leaves  as 
injury may occur. Use 20-40 gal/ac of water as broadcast basis.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
TOBACCO - LAYBY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED                 
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
DEVRINOL 50-WP     50% wettable powder      2.0                    1.0

REMARKS:  Controls  annual  grasses and some broadleaf weeds.  Band application 
should be made immediately following the last (layby) cultivation. Direct spray 
using drop nozzles to row middles.  Use 20-40  gal  of  water/ac  as  broadcast 
basis. Small grain planted in fall may be stunted.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROWL              4.0 lb/gal               1.0 to 1.5 pt          0.5 to 0.75

REMARKS:  Controls annual grasses and some small-seeded broadleaf weeds.  Spray 
should not contact  tobacco  plants.  Apply  in  a  band  in  the  row  middles 
immediately following the last (layby) cultivation.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO - HERBICIDE INFORMATION
-DOC-
TOBACCO - HERBICIDE INFORMATION
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For  information  only.   Use  of  trade  names  does  not  imply  preferential 
endorsement  nor  discrimination  against similar products with different trade 
names.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COMMON NAME        TRADE NAME(S)        FORMULATION(S)          COMPANY
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
diphenamid         ENIDE 90W            90% wettable powder     Tuco
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
isopropalin        PAARLAN E.C.         6.0 lb/gal              Elanco
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
methyl bromide     DOW FUME, BROM-0-GAS,  98% a.i.            Dow, Great Lakes
                   BROZONE, BROM-0-SOL    68.6% a.i.            Great Lakes
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
napropamide        DEVRINOL 50-WP       50% wettable powder     Stauffer
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOBACCO - HERBICIDE INFORMATION
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pebulate           TILLAM 6-E           6.0 lb/gal              Stauffer
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pendimethalin      PROWL                4.0 lb/gal           American Cyanamid
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
oryzalin           SURFLAN A.S.         4.0 lb/gal              Elanco
               SURFLAN DRY FLOWABLE     85% dry flowable        Elanco
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO SUCKER CONTROL                           
-DOC-
                           TOBACCO SUCKER CONTROL
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist	
	
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                        RECOMMENDED RATE
                                                  FORMULATED
PESTICIDE                     FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC      AI (LB/AC)
______________________________________________________________________________
Contact type	
fatty alcohol	
1 octanol and 1	
decanol mixture	
 OFF-SHOOT T, SUCKER            6.01 to 
    PLUCKER, FAIR 85, etc.      6.04 lb/gal       2.0 gal.          12.0

REMARKS: Mix with 48 gal water and apply 50 to 60 gal mixture/ac.  Use two TG-3 
nozzles and a TG-5 nozzle in center or equivalent at 20-25 psi pressure.  Apply 
at early button stage before suckers are 1-2 in long. Second application may be 
done 3-5 days later.  Tobacco should be topped as soon as practical after first 
application for increased yields.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
TOBACCO SUCKER CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                        RECOMMENDED RATE
                                                  FORMULATED
PESTICIDE                     FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC      AI (LB/AC)
______________________________________________________________________________
Systemic type	
maleic hydrazide (21.7%	
potassium salt)	
 ROYAL MH-30, SUPER	
  SUCKER STUFF, FAIR          1.5 lb/gal          1.5 gal         2.25
  PLUS, etc.

REMARKS:  Apply  with  40 to 50 gal of water/ac using 40 psi pressure and TX-18 
nozzles or equivalent.  Apply after tobacco has reached the full flower or 7-10 
days after application of the last contact material.  
	 
Application  of  systemics  during periods of drought or when plants are wilted 
may result in poor sucker control.  Applications made in the morning  are  best 
after dew has dried.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOBACCO SUCKER CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                        RECOMMENDED RATE
                                                  FORMULATED
PESTICIDE                     FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC      AI (LB/AC)
______________________________________________________________________________
maleic hydrazide	
(30.2% potassium	
salt)	
 SUCKER STUFF                  2.25 lb/gal        1.0 gal           2.25

______________________________________________________________________________
TOBACCO SUCKER CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                        RECOMMENDED RATE
                                                  FORMULATED
PESTICIDE                     FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC      AI (LB/AC)
______________________________________________________________________________
Local systemic type,	
flumetralin	
 PRIME +                      1.2 lb/gal          1.0 gal          1.2	

REMARKS:  Machine  application:  Mix  with  49  gal  water  and  apply  50  gal 
mixture/ac.  Use two TG-3 nozzles and a TG-5 nozzle  in  center  at  20-25  psi 
pressure.  Hand  application:  Mix 1 gal with 49 gal water and apply 1/3 to 2/3 
oz/plant using a hand-held drop line. Apply 5 days after application of contact 
material or at elongated button stage to  early  flower.  Suckers  missed  will 
continue  to  grow and should be removed by hand.  Some phytotoxicity may occur 
on small upper leaves.  Stunting of small grain, corn and tobacco may occur the 
next season. Avoid over application.  
________________________________________________________________________________
TOBACCO SUCKER CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                        RECOMMENDED RATE
                                                  FORMULATED
PESTICIDE                     FORMULATION         PRODUCT/AC      AI (LB/AC)
______________________________________________________________________________
Combination of contact and systemic types	
  fatty alcohol                                                   9.36 fatty	
                                                                    alcohol	
  n-Decanol (38.3%)                                               n-Decanol	
       +                                                               +	
  maleic hydrazide (11.1%)	
    potassium salt)                                               1.98 maleic
    FST-7                     3.12 + 0.66 lb/gal    3.0 gal        hydrazide
                  
REMARKS:  Mix with 47 gal water/ac and apply at 20 psi pressure using two  TG-3 
nozzles  and  a  TG-5  nozzle in center.  For best results apply a contact-type 
chemical at the button stage and apply FST-7 7-10 days later.  Leaf injury  may 
occur if rate is exceeded.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO COLORING AGENTS	                             
-DOC-
                            TOBACCO COLORING AGENTS	 
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist	
	
                                                READ THE LABEL BEFORE USE	
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED                 
PESTICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
ethephon 	
 ETHREL            2.0 lb/gal               2.0 to 4.0 qt          1.0 to 2.0
                                                                      
REMARKS:  Use  when  remaining leaves are physiologically mature.  Test treat a 
few plants ahead to determine if chemical will cause yellowing.  Mix  in  40-60 
gal  water/ac  and  apply at 40-60 psi pressure so that all leaves are covered.
Harvest 24 hr later.  Excessive delay in harvesting could  result  in  loss  of 
yield  and  quality and may result in leaf drop.  Treat only the amount that is 
planned for harvest at the time.  Tests conducted  have  resulted  in  variable 
results.  
________________________________________________________________________________
TOBACCO COLORING AGENTS
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED                 
PESTICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
ethylene gas	
 ETHY-GEN          3.0 to 6.0 qt              --                       --

REMARKS:  Apply into air flow of bulk barn.  Follow manufacturer's suggestions.
Harvested tobacco should be physiologically mature.  Use the  higher  rate  for 
greener tobacco. Tests conducted have resulted in variable results.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------




-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO INSECT CONTROL IN THE PLANT BED                    
-DOC-
                    TOBACCO INSECT CONTROL IN THE PLANT BED
                      D.G. Manley, Extension Entomologist	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE         FORMULATION AND                      BEFORE
                                  AMOUNT/100 SQ YD                     HANDLING	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Aphids, flea    R parathion       1-2 lb 1% D or 4-6 gal spray                5	
beetles, and   
vegetable weevil
REMARKS:  Dust or spray to give thorough coverage when plants are dry.  Mix  spray using 1 lb 15% WP/50 gal water.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE         FORMULATION AND                      BEFORE
                                  AMOUNT/100 SQ YD                     HANDLING	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Aphids, flea    R disulfoton      0.6 lb
beetles, and        DI-SYSTON 15G
vegetable
weevil (cont)  
REMARKS:  Apply granules broadcast at seeding or just after plant emergence and 
water thoroughly.	
	
Parathion and disulfoton are highly toxic and should be applied with utmost 
care.	 
	
                  acephate 	
                    ORTHENE 75SP  4 tsp
REMARKS:  Mix spray using 4 tsp/3-5 gal water/100 sq yd.
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE         FORMULATION AND                      BEFORE
                                  AMOUNT/100 SQ YD                     HANDLING	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
White grubs     R parathion       4-5 lb 1% D or                              5	
                                  50-100 gal 15% WP	
REMARKS:  Dust or spray to give thorough coverage when plants are dry	.  Mix 
drench using 1/2 lb 15% WP to 50 gal water. Apply to uprooted area with 
sprinkler can.	 
	
Same precautions and restrictions as for aphids, flea beetles, and vegetable 
weevil.	 
	
                  trichlorfon     100 gal drench	
                    DYLOX or PROXOL	
REMARKS:  Apply to uprooted area with sprinkler can. Mix using 5 oz 80% SP to 
50 gal of water.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE          FORMULATION AND                      BEFORE
                                   AMOUNT/100 SQ YD                    HANDLING	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Mole crickets   trichlorfon        4 lb 5% B
                  DYLOX or PROXOL
REMARKS:  Scatter around margins, walkways and open spaces in beds.  Mix using 
one part 80% SP and 15 parts cornmeal. (Caution: Keep off plants as much as 
possible.)	
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT           PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC         LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Slugs or snails  R parathion*         2-5 lb 1% D                             5	
REMARKS:  Dust to give thorough coverage when plants are dry.	
	
                   meltaldehyde       2 lb 5% B       	
REMARKS:  Scatter around margins, walkways, and open spaces in beds.	
	
Insecticides should be applied according to all label precautions and 
restrictions. Parathion is highly toxic and should be applied with utmost care.
	
*Frequent use of 1% parathion dust may cause plant injury.	
	
NOTE: For stored tobacco insect control, see Stored Products section.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Cutworms        trichlorfon          4 lb 5% B         	
                  DYLOX or PROXOL	
REMARKS:  Scatter around margins, walkways, and open spaces in beds.  Mix using 
one part 80% SP and 15 parts cornmeal. (Caution: Keep off plants as much as 
possible.)	
	
Same as parathion.	
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WIREWORM CONTROL ON NEWLY SET TOBACCO PLANTS                   
-DOC-
                  WIREWORM CONTROL ON NEWLY SET TOBACCO PLANTS 
                      D.G. Manley, Extension Entomologist	
_______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT          PESTICIDE              PRODUCT              LB AI/AC   	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Wireworms         diazinon	
                    14G                 14 lb               2	
                    50WP                4 lb                2
                    AG500               2-3 qt              2-3	
REMARKS:  Preplant broadcast granules with spreader or apply sprays evenly over 
area at least 7-10 days before transplanting and disk to mix 6-9 in into soil.	 
	
                R fensulfothion	                             2
                    DASANIT 15G         14 lb	
                    DASANIT 6SC         2 2/3 pt	
REMARKS:  Apply as with diazinon.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT          PESTICIDE              PRODUCT              LB AI/AC   	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Wireworms       R ethoprop                                  2	
(cont)              MOCAP 10G          20 lb             	
                    MOCAP 6EC          2 2/3 pt	
REMARKS:  Apply as with diazinon.	
	
                R fonofos 	                                  2
                    DYFONATE 10G       20 lb 
                    DYFONATE 4E        2 qt      		
REMARKS:  Apply as with diazinon.	
	
                R carbofuran   	                             6	
                    FURADAN 15G        40 lb	
                    FURADAN 4F         1.5 gal		
REMARKS:  Apply as with diazinon.	
	_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT          PESTICIDE              PRODUCT              LB AI/AC   	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Wireworms 	
(cont)	
REMARKS:  Mocap, Dasanit, Dyfonate, and Furadan are highly toxic and should be 
applied with utmost care.	
	
NOTE: Furadan may cause leaf flecking on the lower portion of the plant.	 
	
                diazinon 50WP          1 oz/50 gal water  	
REMARKS:  For transplant water treatments using hand transplanters, mix 1 
oz/each 50 gal water. Use at least 250 gal water/ac. 	
	
                diazinon 50WP          2 oz/50 gal water	
REMARKS:  For transplant water treatments using mechanical transplanters, mix 2 
oz/each 50 gal water. Use at least 300 gal water.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO INSECT CONTROL IN THE FIELD                      
-DOC-
                      TOBACCO INSECT CONTROL IN THE FIELD
                      D.G. Manley, Extension Entomologist	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Aphids            acephate                               0.5-0.75 	
                    ORTHENE 75SP     2/3-1 lb	
REMARKS:  Apply in 20-40 gal spray/ac for complete coverage	
	
                R monocrotophos                          0.55                 5
                    AZODRIN 5WM      7/8 pt	
REMARKS:  Apply as with acephate.	
	
                R encapsulated methyl                    1.0                  5	
                    parathion	
                      PENNCAP-M 2 F  4 pt	
REMARKS:  Apply as with acephate.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Aphids (cont)   R malathion 57EC     1 1/2 pt            0.94                 5	
REMARKS:  Apply as with acephate.
	
                  endosulfan                             0.5-1.0              5	
                    THIODAN 3EC      2/3 - 1 1/3	
REMARKS:  Apply as with acephate.
	
                R parathion 15WP     1/2 - 1 lb          0.075-0.15           5	
REMARKS:  Apply as with acephate.
	
                R disulfoton                             4.0	
                    DI-SYSTON 15G    27 lb	
REMARKS:  Apply broadcast and incorporate before bedding or apply 6- to 12-in 
band over the row and incorporate before planting.  Apply as broadcast spray in 
20-40 gal water/ac to get coverage and incorporate.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________	
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Aphids (cont)	
PRECAUTIONS:  Monocrotophos, parathion, Penncap-M, and disulfoton are highly 
toxic and should be applied with upmost care.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Flea beetles      acephate                               0.5-0.75	
                    ORTHENE 75SP     2/3 - 1 lb        
REMARKS:  Apply in 20-40 gal spray/ac for complete coverage or in transplant 
water in a minimum of 100 gal/ac.	 
	
                R azinphosmethyl                         0.5-0.75             6	
                    GUTHION 2L or
                     2S              2 - 3 pt		
                    GUTHION 50WP     1 - 1 1/2 lb	
REMARKS:  Apply in 20-40 gal spray/ac for complete coverage.	
	
NOTE:  Oxamyl (Vydate) used as a supplemental nematode treatment will give a 4- 
to 6-wk control of flea beetle.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________	
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Flea beetles      carbaryl                               1.2                  0	
(cont)              SEVIN 80%        1 1/2 lb
REMARKS:  Same as azinphosmethyl.	
	
                R monocrotophos	
                    AZODRIN 5WM      7/8                 0.55                 5	
REMARKS:  Apply in 20-40 gal spray/ac for complete coverage.	
	
                R methidathion                           0.5-0.75             3	
                    SUPRACIDE 2 EC   2-3 pt	
REMARKS:  Same as monocrotophos.	
	
Monocrotophos, methidathion, parathion, Penncap-M, azinphos-methyl, carbofuran, 
and methomyl are highly toxic and should be applied with utmost care.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Flea beetles    R methomyl                               0.45                 5	
(cont)              LANNATE-NUDRIN 90SP 1/2 lb	
                    LANNATE-NUDRIN      1 qt 	 
                     1.8WS	
REMARKS:  Same as monocrotophos.	
 	
                R encapsulated methyl                    1.0-1.5              5	
                    parathion           4-6 pt
                    PENNCAP-M 2F
REMARKS:  Same as monocrotophos.	
	
Monocrotophos, methidathion, parathion, Penncap-M, azinphos-methyl, carbofuran, 
and methomyl are highly toxic and should be applied with utmost care.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________	
Flea beetles    R carbofuran                             4.0-6.0	
(cont)              FURADAN 15%G     27-40 lb	
                    FURADAN 4F       1.0-1.5 gal	

REMARKS:  Apply as preplant broadcast and incorporate.	
	
NOTE: Furadan may cause leaf flecking on the lower portion of plant.	
	
                R disulfoton                             4.0	
                    DI-SYSTON 15%G   27 lb	
                    DI-SYSTON 8E     4 pt	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Flea beetles    R disulfoton (cont)
(cont)	

REMARKS:  Apply broadcast and incorporate before bedding or apply 6- to 12-in 
band over the row and incorporate before planting.  apply as broadcast spray in 
20-40 gal water/ac to cover and incorporate.	 
	
Disulfoton is highly toxic and should be applied with utmost care.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Budworm         acephate                                 0.75                 0	
                  ORTHENE 75%SP      1 lb	
	
                Bacillus
                thuringiensis        See label.	
REMARKS:  Apply baits or sprays directly to bud before flowering. For sprays, 
use full cone nozzles in 20-40 gal water/ac at 60 psi.  Proper spray timing and 
good coverage are essential for effective control. Avoid weekly schedules.	 
	
Insecticides should be applied according to all label precautions and 
restrictions.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Budworm (cont)    methomyl                               0.45                 5	
                    LANNATE-NUDRIN 90SP 1/2 lb	
                    LANNATE-NUDRIN      1 qt	
                      1.8WS	
	
                R monocrotophos                          0.8                  5
                    AZODRIN 5WM        1 1/4 pt	
	
                R encapsulated methyl                    1.0-1.5              5	
                    parathion	
                    PENNCAP-M 2F       4-6 pt   	
	
REMARKS:  Monocrotophos, parathion, Penncap-M, azinphosmethyl, carbofuran, 
methomyl, and disulfoton are highly toxic and should be applied with utmost 
care.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Budworm (cont)  R methidathion	
                    SUPRACIDE 2E     4 pt                1.0                  3	
	
CAUTION: phytotoxicity may occur under certain circumstances.	
	
                R carbofuran                             6.0	
                    FURADAN 15G      40 lb	
                     or 4F           1.5 gal	
REMARKS:  Apply as preplant broadcast and incorporate.	
	
CAUTION:  Control of budworms has been inconsistent ranging from poor to 
excellent using Furadan. Furadan may cause leaf flecking on lower portion of 
plant.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
______________________________________________________________________________
Budworm (cont)  Bacillus thuringiensis 10-12 lb	
                bait	

REMARKS:  Mix dust base to cornmeal following label instructions. Place small 
pinch in bud of each plant with gloved hand.  Commerically prepared baits.  
Apply as above.	 
	
                carbaryl bait	
                  SEVIN              40 lb            

REMARKS:  Mix 1 lb 10% carbaryl dust to 4 lb cornmeal. Apply same as BT bait 
with gloved hand.	 
	
CAUTION: Avoid excessive rates because of danger of phytotoxicity.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Budworm (cont)    trichlorfon bait                                            3	
                    DYLOX or PROXOL  10-12 lb	
REMARKS:  Mix 1 lb 80% SP and 15 lb cornmeal or obtain a 5% commercially 
prepared bait. Apply same as BT bait with gloved hand.  	
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hornworms         acephate           2/3-1 lb            0.5-0.75             0	
                    ORTHENE 75% SP	
REMARKS:  Apply 20-40 gal spray/ac for complete coverage.	
	
                R azinphosmethyl                         0.5-0.75             6	
                    GUTHION 2L or 2S 2-3 pt	
                    GUTHION 50% WP   1-1 1/2 lb	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Hornworms (cont)	

REMARKS:  Insecticides should be applied according to all label precautions and 
restrictions.	 
	
Monocrotophos, parathion, Penncap-M, disulfoton, azinphosmethyl, carbofuran, 
and methomyl are highly toxic and should be applied with utmost care.	 
	
                  Bacillus thuringiensis  See label.	
	
                R methomyl                               0.23-0.45            5		
                    LANNATE-NUDRIN 90SP 1/4-1/2 lb       	
                    LANNATE-NUDRIN      1-2 pt	
                      1.8WS
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Hornworms       R monocrotophos                          0.55                 5	
(cont)              AZODRIN 5 WM     7/8 pt	
REMARKS:  Monocrotophos, parathion, Penncap-M, disulfoton, azinphos methyl, 
carbofuran, and methomyl are highly toxic and should be applied with utmost 
care.	 
                R encapsulated methyl                    1.0                  5	
                    parathion        2-4 pt	
                    PENNCAP-M 2 F 
REMARKS:  Most insecticides recommended on tobacco may burn leaves or distort 
growth under certain conditions.	 
	
                  carbaryl                               1.2-1.6              0	
                    SEVIN 80% sprayable  1 1/2-2 lb	
REMARKS:  Most insecticides recommended on tobacco may burn leaves or distort 
growth under certain conditions.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Hornworms       R methidathion                           0.5-0.75             3
(cont)              SUPRACIDE 2E     2-3 pt	
	
CAUTION: phytoxicity may occur under certain circumstances.	
	
                R carbofuran                             6.0	
                    Furadan 15G      40 lb  	
                    Furadan 4F       1.5 gal	
REMARKS:  Apply as preplant broadcast and incorporate.	
	
NOTE:  Furadan may cause leaf flecking on the lower portion of the plant.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Loopers           acephate                                 0.75               0	
                    ORTHENE 75% SP   1 lb	

REMARKS:  Apply 20-40 gal spray/ac for complete coverage.	
	
                  Bacillus thuringiensis  See label.	
	
                R methomyl                                 0.45               5	
                    LANNATE-NUDRIN
                         90SP        1/2 lb	
                    LANNATE-NUDRIN   1 qt	
                         1.8WS	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Stink bugs      R parathion 1% dust  15-25 lb            0.15-0.25            5	
                           15% WP    1/2-1 lb            0.075-0.15	
REMARKS:  Apply thoroughly to all parts of plant. Use 20-40 gal spray/ac.	
	
Insecticides should be applied according to all label precautions and 
restrictions.		
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------	
Grasshoppers      malathion 57% SP     1 1/2 pt          0.94                 5	
	
                  acephate                                                    0	
                    ORTHENE 75% SP     1/3-2/3 lb        0.25-0.5      	
REMARKS:  Apply sprays in 20-40 gal spray/ac for complete coverage.  Early 
spray around field borders helps prevent infestation.	
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCT/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Vegetable       R encapsulated methyl                    0.5-1.0              5	
weevil              parathion        2-4 pt	
                    PENNCAP-M	 2 F
REMARKS:  Same as for grasshoppers	.
	
Monocrotophos, parathion, Penncap-M, disulfoton, azinphosmethyl, carbofuran, 
and methomyl are highly toxic and should be applied with utmost care.  
	
                R parathion 1% dust  10 lb               0.10                 5	
REMARKS:  Apply dust thoroughly to all parts of plant.	
	_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCE/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Cutworms        trichlorfon                              1.0                  3	
                  DYLOX or PROXOL bait 20 lb	
REMARKS:  Mix 1 lb 80% SP and 15 lb cornmeal or obtain a 5% commercially 
prepared bait. Apply 20 lb mixture/ac using a gloved hand or mechanical 
applicator.	 
	
Most insecticides recommended on tobacco may burn leaves or distort growth 
under certain conditions.	
	
                diazinon	
                  14%G              14 lb               2.0	
                  50%WP              4 lb               2.0	
                  AG500             2-3 qt              2.0-3.0	
REMARKS:  Broadcast before transplanting and immediately work into soil 2-4 in.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                                       MIN DAYS
INSECT          PESTICIDE            PRODUCE/AC          LB AI/AC    TO HARVEST	
_______________________________________________________________________________
Cutworms          acephate                                                    0	
                    ORTHENE 75%SP    1 lb                0.75	
REMARKS:  Apply in 10-50 gal spray/ac as needed.	
	
                R chlorpyrifos                           2-3	
                    LORSBAN 15%G     14-20 lb	
                    LORSBAN 4E       2-3 qt	
REMARKS:  Apply preplant broadcast granules or a preplant broadcast spray in 
not less than 10 gal spray/ac. Incorporate into soil 2-4 in.	 
	
CAUTION: Do not make more than one application/season.	
	
NOTE: For Stored Tobacco insect control, see "Stored Products" section.	 
_______________________________________________________________________________
	
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO FIELD NEMATODE CONTROL                            
-DOC-
                            TOBACCO FIELD NEMATODE CONTROL
                       R. W. Miller, Extension Plant Pathologist

_______________________________________________________________________________
                                          Rootknot Control             Waiting
                         Rate/ac       Southern       Peanut    Method  Period
NEMATICIDE             (48-in row)   (M.incognita) (M.arenaria)  (1)     (days)
_______________________________________________________________________________
FUMIGANTS:
   TELONE II             4-5.3 gal   Excellent     Excellent    GF(row)     21
CONTACTS:
   R DASANIT 15G         40-60 lb    Fair          Poor         B & I        0
   R DASANIT 6SC         1 gal       Fair          Poor         B & I        0
   
REMARKS:  Broadcast and thoroughly incorporate all non-fumigant nematicides.
Use Nemacur or fumigant if nematode populations are at problem levels (See
Plant Disease Note 46).  Where the root knot species is M. arenaria or M.
javanica use of fumigant is preferred.
_______________________________________________________________________________

1  GF-Gravity Flow; B & I - Broadcast and incorporate 
R  Some or all uses of this product are restricted
                   TOBACCO FIELD NEMATODE CONTROL (cont)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                          Rootknot Control             Waiting
                         Rate/ac       Southern       Peanut    Method  Period
NEMATICIDE             (48-in row)   (M.incognita) (M.arenaria)  (1)     (days)
_______________________________________________________________________________
   R DASANIT +          
       DI-SYSTON SC4-2   1.5 gal     Fair          Poor         B & I        0
   R DASANIT +
       DI-SYSTON 10-5G   60 lb       Fair          Poor         B & I        0
   R FURADAN 15G         40 lb       Fair          Poor         B & I        0
   R FURADAN 4F          1.5 gal     Fair          Poor         B & I        0
   R MOCAP 10G           60-120 lb   Good          2            B & I        0
REMARKS:  Broadcast and thoroughly incorporate all non-fumigant nematicides.
Use Nemacur or fumigant if nematode populations are at problem levels (See
Plant Disease Note 46).  Where the root knot species is M. arenaria or M.
javanica use of fumigant is preferred.
_______________________________________________________________________________
B & I - Broadcast and incorporate
2  Not labeled for control of this nematode species
R  Some or all uses of this product are restricted
                   TOBACCO FIELD NEMATODE CONTROL (cont)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                          Rootknot Control             Waiting
                         Rate/ac       Southern       Peanut    Method  Period
NEMATICIDE             (48-in row)   (M.incognita) (M.arenaria)  (1)     (days)
_______________________________________________________________________________
   R MOCAP 6EC           1-2 gal     Good          2            B & I       0
   R MOCAP Plus
     4-2EC               1.5-2 gal   Good          2            B & I       0
   R MOCAP Plus
     10-5G               60-80 lb    Good          2            B & I       0
   R NEMACUR 15G         40 lb       Good          Fair         B & I       0
   R NEMACUR 3EC         1.3-2 gal   Good+         Good-        B & I       0
REMARKS:  Broadcast and thoroughly incorporate all non-fumigant nematicides.
Use Nemacur or fumigant if nematode populations are at problem levels (See
Plant Disease Note 46).  Where the root knot species is M. arenaria or M.
javanica use of fumigant is preferred.
_______________________________________________________________________________
B & I - Broadcast and incorporate
2  Not labeled for control of this nematode species
R  Some or all uses of this product are restricted
                   TOBACCO FIELD NEMATODE CONTROL (cont)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                          Rootknot Control             Waiting
                         Rate/ac       Southern       Peanut    Method  Period
NEMATICIDE             (48-in row)   (M.incognita) (M.arenaria)  (1)     (days)
_______________________________________________________________________________
   R NEMACUR-
       DASANIT 2-4SC     1-1.5 gal   Good+         Good-        B & I      0
   R NEMACUR-
       DASANIT 5-10G     40-60 lb    Good+         Good-        B & I      0
   R NEMACUR 3           1-1 1/3 gal 
       Plus                          Good+         Good-        B & I      0
   R FURADAN 4F          1 gal

REMARKS:  Broadcast and thoroughly incorporate all non-fumigant nematicides.
Use Nemacur or fumigant if nematode populations are at problem levels (See
Plant Disease Note 46).  Where the root knot species is M. arenaria or M. 
javanica use of fumigant is preferred.
_______________________________________________________________________________
B & I - Broadcast and incorporate
R  Some or all uses of this product are restricted
                   TOBACCO FIELD NEMATODE CONTROL (cont)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                          Rootknot Control             Waiting
                         Rate/ac       Southern       Peanut    Method  Period
NEMATICIDE             (48-in row)   (M.incognita) (M.arenaria)  (1)     (days)
_______________________________________________________________________________
   R NEMACUR 3           1 gal
       Plus                          Good          Poor         B & I       0
   R MOCAP 6EC           1 gal
   R NEMACUR 3           1-1 2/3 gal  
       Plus                          Good          Poor         B & I       0
     LORSBAN             2 qt        

REMARKS:  Broadcast and thoroughly incorporate all non-fumigant nematicides.  
Use Nemacur or fumigant if nematode populations are at problem levels (See
Plant Disease Note 46).  Where the root knot species is M. arenaria or M. 
javanica use of fumigant is preferred.
_______________________________________________________________________________
B & I - Broadcast and incorporate
R  Some or all uses of this product are restricted

                   TOBACCO FIELD NEMATODE CONTROL (cont)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                          Rootknot Control             Waiting
                         Rate/ac       Southern       Peanut    Method  Period
NEMATICIDE             (48-in row)   (M.incognita) (M.arenaria)  (1)     (days)
_______________________________________________________________________________
  R VYDATE L2EC          1-3 gal     Good          Fair         B & I       0
  R VYDATE L2EC          1.5 pt      Fair          Poor         TPW         0
_______________________________________________________________________________

REMARKS:  Broadcast and thoroughly incorporate all non-fumigant nematicides.  
Use Nemacur or fumigant if nematode populations are at problem levels (See
Plant Disease Note 46).  Where the root knot species is M. arenaria or M. 
javanica use of fumigant is preferred.
_______________________________________________________________________________
B & I - Broadcast and incorporate; TPW - Transplant water
R  Some or all uses of this product are restricted
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO FIELD DISEASE CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         TOBACCO FIELD DISEASE CONTROL
                   R. W. Miller, Extension Plant Pathologist

_______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE           PESTICIDE       PRODUCT/AC         METHOD OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
Black shank,      Fumigants:
Phytophthora       TELONE C-17    10 1/2 gal         Gravity flow-disc hillers
nicotinae          CHLORO-0-PIC   3.0 gal            Special equipment, consult
f. parasitica                                         label, see remarks


REMARKS: Black shank is controlled by using a combination of rotation,
resistant varieties and chemical control.  If the disease pressure is high
(more than 6%) and the rotation is less than 4 years or if the disease
pressure is moderate (1 to 6%) and the rotation is less than 3 years or if the
disease pressure is low (less than 1%) and no rotation, use ether the
fumigants or Ridomil plus nematicides.  For nematicides see Tobacco Field
Nematode Control.
                     TOBACCO FIELD DISEASE CONTROL (cont)

_______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE           PESTICIDE       PRODUCT/AC         METHOD OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
Black shank,      Nonfumigant:
Phythophthora     metalaxyl
nicotinae           RIDOMIL 2E
f. parasitica                     4 qt               Broadcast and incorporate/
                                   or                No rotation/
                                  2 qt + 1 qt        See remarks
                    
                    RIDOMIL 2E
                                  3 qt               Broadcast and incorporate/
                                   or                2 yr rotation/
                                  2 qt + 1 qt        See remarks 

REMARKS:  Do not rely on Ridomil alone for Black shank control.  In addition to
rotation use varietal resistance.  In the non-fumigant recommendation above
the first suggested rate is as preplant incorporation only.  The second is for
preplant and at layby.  For layby application  use 2 drop nozzles per row
directed at sides of bed.
                     TOBACCO FIELD DISEASE CONTROL (cont)

_______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE           PESTICIDE       PRODUCT/AC         METHOD OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
Black shank,      Nonfumigant:
Phythophthora,    metalaxyl
Nicotinae  
F. parasitica     RIDOMIL 2E
                                  2 qt               Broadcast and incorporate/
                                   or                3 yr or more rotation    /
                                  1 qt + 1 qt        See remarks

REMARKS:  Do not rely on Ridomil alone for Black shank control.  In addition to
rotation use varietal resistance.  In the non-fumigant recommendation above
the first suggested rate is as preplant incorporation only.  The second is for
preplant and at layby.  For layby application  use 2 drop nozzles per row
directed at sides of bed.
                     TOBACCO FIELD DISEASE CONTROL (cont)

_______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE           PESTICIDE       PRODUCT/AC    AI/AC       SPECIAL LABELS
_______________________________________________________________________________
Blue mold         metalaxyl
Peronospora         RIDOMIL 2E    1-2 qt        0.5-1.0lb
tabacina 

                  REMARKS:  Broadcast and incorporate 2-4 in deep at or before
                  transplanting.  Excellent season-long control.  Ridomil
                  applied as for black shank control will systemically protect
                  from late blue mold.  Do not apply to foliage or to
                  transplant as injury may occur.
                    TOBACCO FIELD DISEASE CONTROL (cont)

_______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE           PESTICIDE       PRODUCT/AC    AI/AC       SPECIAL LABELS
_______________________________________________________________________________
Blue mold,
Peronospora
tabacina (cont)

Foliar            maneb
treatments:         MANEX 37F     1.4-2.5 qt    1.4-2.5 lb
                    DITHANE F2    1.4-3.2 qt    1.4-3.2 lb
                    DITHANE M-22  2.25-4.0 lb   1.7-3.2 lb
                    MANEB 4L      1.4-3.2 qt    1.4-3.2 lb
                  mancozeb
                    MANZATE 200F  0.8-1.3 qt    0.8-1.3 lb
                    DITHANE M-45  1.5-2.0 lb    1.2-1.6 lb      SLN-SL 800 006

REMARKS:  Apply in sufficient water with drops as necessary for adequate cover-
age.  Repeat as necessary to maintain control.  Generally 2-3 week intervals or
1 inch of rain will indicate that reapplication is necessary.  When plants 
are rapidly growing decrease interval to protect new leaves.  Protective only.
                     TOBACCO FIELD DISEASE CONTROL (cont)

_______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE           PESTICIDE       PRODUCT/AC    AI/AC       SPECIAL LABELS
_______________________________________________________________________________
Brown spot,       Maneb
Alternaria          MANEX         1.4-2.5 qt    1.4-2.5 lb
alternata           DITHANE F2    1.4-3.2 qt    1.4-3.2 lb
                    DITHANE M22   2.25-4.0 lb   1.7-3.2 lb
                    MANEB 4L      1.4-3.2 qt    1.4-3.2 lb
                  Mancozeb
                    MANZATE       0.8-1.3 qt    0.8-1.3 lb
                    DITHANE M45   1.5-20.0 lb   1.2-1.6 lb

REMARKS:  The use of fungicides for brown spot control is not recommended.  
Select varieties tolerant to the diseasse.  Avoid excessive nitrogen.  Increase
pruning rate when disease appears.  If necessary fungicides above applied as 
for field blue mold control will reduce spread.  Thorough coverage is
essential.
                     TOBACCO FIELD DISEASE CONTROL (cont)

_______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE          PESTICIDE        PRODUCT/AC    AI/AC       SPECIAL LABELS
_______________________________________________________________________________
Granville wilt,  Dichloropropene &
Pseudomonae       chloropicrin
solanacearum       R TELONE C-17   10.5 gal     82.4 &
                                                18.4 lb
                 chlorpicrin
                   R CHLOR-0-PIC    3.0 gal      41.4 lb

REMARKS:  NO CHEMICAL IS REALLY EFFECTIVE.  ROTATION (3 YR) is essential along
with selection of resistant varieties and multipurpose fumigants indicated. 
Soybeans is preferred rotation crop.  Corn may be used as a rotation crop but
some strains of the causal bacterium can be maintained on corn roots.  Avoid
cutting roots during cultivation. 

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL ASPARAGUS WEED CONTROL                       
-DOC-
                       COMMERCIAL ASPARAGUS WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                 PRODUCT/AC/        RATE lb
WEEDS CONTROLLED        PESTICIDE                BROADCAST           AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses, some    diuron    
broadleaf weeds.          KARMEX 80wp            2 lb               1.6
                            
REMARKS:  Two applications may be used; first application is applied during 
the mo. before cutting; a second application is made immediately after 
harvest.  Rainfall is needed for incorporation.  Do not apply during first 
season. Estabished plantings only.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Bermudagrass            dalapon                 
                          DOWPON M98WP           15 lb              12.75
 
REMARKS:  Spot spray or use as directed.  Direct spray under ferns for grass 
emerging after harvest.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Annual and perennial    glyphosate              grass and broadleaf       
ROUNDUP 4SL            1 to 4 qt          1 to 4 weeds. 
 
REMARKS:  Apply to emerged weeds up to 1 wk before spear emergence or 
immediately after last cutting has removed all aboveground parts or as 
directed spray under mature ferns.
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual and broadleaf    simazine
weeds.                   PRINCEP 80 WP           2.5 to 5.0 lb      2 to 4
 
REMARKS:  Apply once per year either before or after harvest.  Preharvest 
application should occur 3 days before harvest.  For established plantings 
only.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Annual and broadleaf    metribuzin 
weeds.                   SENCOR 75DF or          1 to 2 lb      .75 to 1.5
                         LEXONE 75DF
                               
REMARKS:  Split application; apply half before and half after harvest season.  
Do not apply within 14 days of harvest.  For established plantings only.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Broadleaf weeds.        2, 4-D
                         FORMULA 40            l.5 to 2 qts.    1.4 to 1.9   
 
REMARKS:  Apply in 60 gal water per acre.  Apply immediately after cutting.  
No more than 2 applications/year and 1 month apart. For established plantings 
only.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses and      napropamide
broadleaf weeds.          DEVRINOL 50 WP        8 lb             4.0
 
REMARKS:  Incorporate 1 to 2 inches the same day applied.  May be split 
applied before and after harvest.  For established plantings only.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses and      terbacil
broadleaf weeds.          SINBAR 80WP        1.5-3.0 lb      1.2 - 2.4
 
REMARKS:  Split application; apply half before and half after harvest season.  
Apply after harvest season after clean cutting field.  Do not harvest within 5 
days after application.  For established plantings only.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - -  - - - - - -  - - - - - - -  - - 
Annual grasses and      trifluralin
broadleaf weeds.          TREFLAN EC         1 - 4 pt        .5 - 2.0
 
REMARKS:  Can be applied single or split applied before spear emergence and 
ferning.  Use higher rates on fine textured soils; lower rates on coarse.  For 
established plantings.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL BEAN WEED CONTROL*                         
-DOC-
                         COMMERCIAL BEAN WEED CONTROL*
                     W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                    Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                
WEEDS CONTROLLED        PESTICIDE                PRODUCT/AC/         RATE lb
                                                 BROADCAST            AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
Nutsedge suppression,                          
some annual grasses         EPTC                           
and broadleaf weeds.        EPTAM 7E            2 1/4 pt              2
                            GENEP 7EC          
 
REMARKS:  Do not cover more than 4 in deep. Bed over rate is 1/2 the broadcast 
rate. Snap and pole beans only.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Control of yellow       bentazon               
nutsedge; cocklebur       BASAGRAN 4SC          3/4 to 1 qt         0.75 to
and certain other                                                   1.0
broadleaf weeds.
REMARKS:  Apply early postemergence when weeds are small.  Do not apply 
Basagran to beans until first trifoliate leaf is fully expanded.  Some 
temporary injury is likely to occur.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses and      metolachlor             1.25 to 2.5 p1      1.25 to
some broadleaf weeds.     DUAL 8E                                   2.5
 
REMARKS:  Apply preplant incorporated or surface apply after planting.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses, some    trifluralin            
broadleaf weeds.          TREFLAN 4EC           1 to 1 1/2 pt       0.5 to                    
                                                                    0.75
REMARKS:  Apply preplant and incorporate immediately.  Use high rate on heavy 
soils.
_______________________________________________________________________________
*Beans - snap, pole and lima.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL BEAN INSECT CONTROL                         
-DOC-

                         COMMERCIAL BEAN INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist

BEANS--SNAP, POLE, LIMA: INSECT:  MEXICAN BEAN BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
R methomyl LANNATE, NUDRIN   0.45        1      Apply on foliage as needed.
R PENNCAP-M                  0.5        15      Do not apply during bloom to 
                                                avoid killing honeybees.
  phorate THIMET G           1.0        60      Apply in furrow at planting.
                                                Do not place in direct contact 
                                                with seed. 
R disulfoton DI-SYSTON G     1.5                Apply in furrow at planting. Do
                                                not apply more than once/season.
  malathion                  1.2         1      Apply on foliage as needed.
  carbaryl SEVIN             0.5-1.0     1      Apply on foliage.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  MEXICAN BEAN BEETLE (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         3      Do not make more than three 
                                                applications/season. Do not use
                                                on lima beans.
  acephate ORTHENE 75S       0.5-1.0    14      Apply on foliage.


R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.05-0.1   3       Snap beans only.  Do not graze
                                                livestock or feed forage or hay.
                                                Do not exceed 0.8 lb ai/ac/ 
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  BEAN LEAF BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                
  carbaryl SEVIN             0.5-1.0     1      Apply on foliage as needed.
  acephate ORTHENE 75S       0.5-1.0    14      Apply on foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CORN EARWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE, NUDRIN   0.38-0.45   1      For dry beans do not apply 
                                                within 25 days of harvest.
  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0         1      Apply as needed.
R PENNCAP-M                  1.0        15      Do not apply during bloom to
                                                avoid killing honeybees.
  acephate ORTHENE 75S       0.75-1.0   14      Apply as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Snap beans only. Do not graze
                                                livestock or feed forage or hay.
                                                Do not exceed 0.8 lb ai/ac/
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  LIMA BEAN POD BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             2.0         1      On foliage when pods begin to
                                                form and at 10-day intervals.
R parathion                  0.25-0.5   15      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  BEAN LEAF ROLLER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R azinphosmethyl GUTHION     0.25-0.5  7(SNAP)  Apply on foliage as needed.
                                       30(dry)
R parathion                  0.25-0.5   15
  acephate ORTHENE 75S       0.5-1.0    14      Apply on foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  LEAF MINER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  dimethoate CYGON           0.33        0      Apply on foliage as needed.
R azinphosmethyl GUTHION     0.5       7(snap)  Apply on foliage as needed.
                                       30(dry)
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  COWPEA CURCULIO
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0 lb      3      Snap beans only. Apply when 
                                                first damage or adults are
                                                noticed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  THRIPS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
  
  dimethoate CYGON           0.25-0.5    0      Do not feed treated vines.
R parathion                  0.25-0.37  15      Apply on foliage as needed.
R phorate THIMET G           1.0        60      Apply in furrow at planting.
                                                Do not place in direct contact
                                                with seed.
R disulfoton DI-SYSTON G     1.5        60      Apply in furrow at planting. Do
                                                not apply more than once/ 
                                                season.
  acephate ORTHENE 75S       0.5-1.0    14      Apply on foliage as needed.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  LESSER CORNSTALK BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

Planting as early as possible and clean cultivation before planting are 
probably the best controls.  Insecticides are erratic at times.  The following 
insecticide may be used if damaging infestations are present.

  diazinon G                 2.0                Apply in a 6-in band.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________

PREPLANT TREATMENT - diazinon 1.5-2.0 lb/ac broadcast.
                   - Broadcast and work into soil before planting.

POSTPLANT - trichlorfon (DYLOX, PROXOL): Spray 1.0 lb ai/ac to lower part of 
            plant and soil around base.  Do not apply within 14 days of harvest.
          - Dylox bait 5% - Apply 30 lb/ac.  Do not apply within 14 days of 
            harvest.  Do not feed treated vines to meat or dairy animals.
          - acephate ORTHENE 75S: Spray lower part of plant and soil around
            base with 1 lb ai/ac.  Do not apply within 14 days of harvest.
          - R fenvalerate PYDRIN:  Apply 0.1-0.2 lb ai/ac as a seedling spray 
            for snap beans only.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  LOOPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45-0.9    3      Apply on foliage as needed.
  acephate ORTHENE           0.5-1.0    14      Apply on foliage as needed.
  Bacillus thuringiensis*    0.5-1.0     0      Apply on foliage as needed.

*Trade names for Bacillus thuringiensis include Dipel, Thuricide, Bactur, Sok- 
Bt, and Bactospeine.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  STINK BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         3      Do not apply more than three
                                                times/season.  Do not use on
                                                lima beans.
R parathion                  0.5        15      Apply as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SPIDER MITE
_______________________________________________________________________________

R demeton SYSTOX             0.37-0.50  21      Mostly a problem in home 
                                                gardens.  Apply when damage is
                                                found.
________________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  PLANT BUGS (LYGUS)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  acephate ORTHENE 75S       0.5-1.0    14      Apply as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  VELVETBEAN CATERPILLAR
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Snap beans only.  Do not graze
                                                livestock or feed forage or 
                                                hay.  Do not exceed 0.8 lb
                                                ai/ac/season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  PEA APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                     MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Snap beans only.  Do not graze
                                                livestock or feed forage or 
                                                hay.  Do not exceed 0.8 lb
                                                ai/ac/season.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL BROCCOLI INSECT CONTROl                       
-DOC-

                       COMMERCIAL BROCCOLI INSECT CONTROl
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist

INSECT:  APHID
________________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
R methamidophos MONITOR      0.5-1.0    35      Use 0.5 lb as a preventive pro-
                                                gram at 7-day intervals.  Use
                                                1.0 lb as a cleanup of existing
                                                populations.
R demeton SYSTOX             0.5        21      On foliage when aphids appear.
                                                Repeat weekly as needed.
  diazinon                   1.0         7      When aphids appear.  Repeat 
                                                weekly as needed.
  metasystox-R               0.35-0.5    7      Do not apply more than three
                                                times/season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  APHID (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R mevinphos PHOSDRIN         0.3-0.5     1      When aphids appear.  Repeat
                                                weekly as needed.
  dibrom NALED               1.0         1      On foliage when aphids appear.
R disulfoton DI-SYSTON G     1.0        42      In furrow at planting or side-
                                                dressing after plants emerge.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT: ROOT MAGGOT
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
  chlorpyrifos LORSBAN 15G   4.6-9.2 oz/        Apply in a 4-in band ahead of
                           1,000 row ft         planter shoe, in front of press
                                                wheel.  (Direct seeded.)
               LORSBAN 4E  1.6-2.75 fl  30      For transplanted crops apply
                           oz/1,000 row         Lorsban 4E as soil drench 
                           ft                   immediately after setting.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE  - HARLEQUIN BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         7      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  MOLE CRICKET
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  diazinon                   2.0-4.0     7      Broadcast before planting.
_______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT:  CATERPILLAR - INCLUDING DIAMOND BACK, IMPORTED AND CROSS-STRIPED
                       CABBAGEWORM, LOOPER AND OTHERS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methamidophos              0.5-1.0    35      Use 0.5 lb/ac as a preventive
  MONITOR EC                                    program at 7-day intervals. Use
                                                1.0 lb/ac as a cleanup of 
                                                existing populations.
R methomyl LANNATE, NUDRIN   0.45-0.9    3      When insects appear. Use 0.9 lb
                                                rate for loopers only.
R methomyl + Bacillus        0.45+0.5    3      When insects appear. 
  thuringiensis*                                
  Bacillus thuringiensis*    0.5-1.0     0      Apply when insects appear.  
                                                Repeat every 7 days.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  CATERPILLAR  (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        10      Apply when insects appear.
                                                Repeat application every 7 
                                                days.  Parathion is not 
                                                effective at low temperatures.
                                                If maximum daily temperature
                                                below 70oF persists after
                                                application, do not harvest for
                                                17 days.
  endosulfan + Bacillus      1.0+0.5     7      On foliage when worms appear.
  thuringiensis*
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         7      On foliage when worms appear.
                                                Repeat at 7-day intervals.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  CATERPILLAR  (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.05-0.2    3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not
                                                exceed 1.6 lb ai/ac/season.
R permethrin AMBUSH, POUNCE  0.05.0.1    1      Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/
                                                season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .4 lb
                                                ai. per acre per season.

*Trade names for Bacillus thuringiensis include Dipel, Thuricide, Bactur, Sok- 
Bt, and Bactospeine.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________

PREPLANT TREATMENT - diazinon 1.5-2.0 lb/ac 
                   - Broadcast and work into soil before planting.
POSTPLANT - Dylox - 1 lb active/ac.  Spray lower portion of plant and soil 
            around base.  Do not apply within 21 days of harvest.
          - Dylox 5% bait - 20 lb/ac.  Do not apply within 21 days of harvest.
          - R fenvalerate PYDRIN - 0.1-0.2 lb ai/ac sprayed on lower part of 
            plant as needed.
          - R esfenvalerate ASANA - Apply .025-.05 lb ai/ac.  Repeat as neces-
            sary to maintain control.  Do not exceed .4 lb ai. per acre per 
            season.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL CABBAGE WEED CONTROL                       
-DOC-
                       COMMERCIAL CABBAGE WEED CONTROL
                     W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                    Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                             PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED        PESTICIDE            BROADCAST        RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses, some    trifluralin         
broadleaf weeds.          TREFLAN 4EC        1 to 1 1/2 pt        0.5 to 0.75
 
REMARKS:  Apply before planting and incorporate immediately.  Use high rate 
on heavy soil.  Transplanted or direct seeded cabbage.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Annual grasses and      DCPA               
some small-seeded         DACTHAL 75 WP      10.75.to 13.5 lb.    8 to 10        
broadleaf weeds.
REMARKS:  Apply to soil surface just after seeding or transplanting.  May be 
applied over top of transplants.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  -
Annual grasses and      napropamide
some broadleaf weeds.     DEVRINOL 50 WP      2 to 4 lb           1 to 2
 
REMARKS:  Apply to weed free surface.  Sprinkle irrigate within 24 hours. 
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL CABBAGE INSECT CONTROL                        
-DOC-

                        COMMERCIAL CABBAGE INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
________________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methamidophos MONITOR      0.5-1.0    35      Use 0.5 lb as a preventive pro-
                                                gram at 7-day intervals.  Use
                                                1.0 lb as a cleanup of existing
                                                populations.
R demeton SYSTOX             0.5        21      On foliage when aphids appear.
                                                Repeat weekly as needed.
  diazinon                   1.0         7      When aphids appear.  Repeat 
                                                weekly as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID (cont)
________________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  metasystox-R               0.35-0.5    7      Do not apply more than three
                                                times/season.

R mevinphos PHOSDRIN         0.3-0.5     1      When aphids appear.  Repeat
                                                weekly as needed.
  dibrom NALED               1.0         1      On foliage when aphids appear.
R disulfoton DI-SYSTON G     1.0        42      In furrow at planting or side-
                                                dressing after plants emerge.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT: ROOT MAGGOT
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
  chlorpyrifos LORSBAN 15G   4.6-9.2 oz/        Apply in a 4-in band ahead of
                           1,000 row ft         planter shoe, in front of press
                                                wheel.  (Direct seeded.)
               LORSBAN 4E  1.6-2.75 fl  30      For transplanted crops apply
                           oz/1,000 row         Lorsban 4E as soil drench 
                           ft                   immediately after setting.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE  - HARLEQUIN BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         7      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  MOLE CRICKET
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  diazinon                   2.0-4.0     7      Broadcast before planting.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CATERPILLAR - INCLUDING DIAMOND BACK, IMPORTED AND CROSS-STRIPED
                       CABBAGEWORM, LOOPER AND OTHERS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methamidophos              0.5-1.0    35      Use 0.5 lb/ac as a preventive
  MONITOR                                       program at 7-day intervals. Use
                                                1.0 lb/ac as a cleanup of 
                                                existing populations.
R methomyl LANNATE, NUDRIN   0.45-0.9    1      When insects appear. Use 0.9 lb
                                                rate for loopers only.
R methomyl + Bacillus        0.45+0.5    1      When insects appear.  
  thuringiensis*                                 
  Bacillus thuringiensis*    0.5-1.0     0      Apply when insects appear.  
                                                Repeat every 7 days.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  CATERPILLAR (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        10      Apply when insects appear.
                                                Repeat application every 7 
                                                days.  Parathion is not 
                                                effective at low temperatures.
                                                If maximum daily temperature
                                                below 70oF persists after
                                                application, do not harvest for
                                                17 days.
R PENNCAP-M                  1.0-1.5    21      Imported cabbageworm on cabbage
                                                only.
  endosulfan + Bacillus      1.0+0.5     7      On foliage when worms appear.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  CATERPILLAR (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
  thuringiensis*
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         7      On foliage when worms appear.
                                                Repeat at 7-day intervals.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.05-0.2    3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not
                                                exceed 1.6 lb ai/ac/season.
R permethrin AMBUSH, POUNCE  0.05.0.1    1      Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/
                                                season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .4 lb
                                                ai. per acre per season.

*Trade names for Bacillus thuringiensis include Dipel, Thuricide, Bactur, Sok- 
Bt, and Bactospeine.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________

PREPLANT TREATMENT - diazinon 1.5-2.0 lb/ac broadcast
                   - Broadcast and work into soil before planting.
POSTPLANT - Dylox - 1 lb active/ac.  Spray lower portion of plant and soil 
            around base.  Do not apply within 21 days of harvest.
          - Dylox 5% bait - 20 lb/ac.  Do not apply within 21 days of harvest.
          - R fenvalerate PYDRIN - 0.1-0.2 lb ai/ac sprayed on lower part of 
            plant as needed.
          - R esfenvalerate ASANA - Apply .025-.05 lb ai/ac - Repeat as neces-
            sary to maintain control.  Do not exceed .4 lb ai. per acre per 
            season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL CANTALOUPE WEED CONTROL                      
-DOC-
                      COMMERCIAL CANTALOUPE WEED CONTROL
                     W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                    Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                            PRODUCT /AC/ 
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE        BROADCAST          RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
Most annual grasses,       bensulide       
but weak on broadleaf        PREFAR 4E      5 to 6 qt             5 to 6
weeds.
 
REMARKS:  Apply preplant and incorporate 1-2 in-deep immediately.  Follow 
label regarding succession crops.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Annual grasses, broad-     bensulide +     
leaf weeds.                naptalam
                            PREFAR 4E +     4 to 6 qt + 6 qt       4 to 6 + 3
                            ALANAP 2E
REMARKS:  Mix the materials in the tank and apply preplant.  Incorporate 1/2 
to 1 in-deep.  Band application has shown effective results.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
________________________________________________________________________________
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL CANTALOUPE INSECT CONTROL                      
-DOC-

                      COMMERCIAL CANTALOUPE INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        3      On foliage as needed.
R parathion                  0.3-0.5     7      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         0      On foliage as needed.
  diazinon                   0.5         3      On foliage as needed.
  dimethoate CYGON           0.5         3      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  PICKLEWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45-0.9    3      On foliage when worms appear.
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         1      On foliage when 
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not
                                                exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/yr.
R permethrin AMBUSH-POUNCE   0.1-0.2     1      Do not exceed 1.6 lb ai/ac/yr.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT: LEAF MINER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R azinphosmethyl             0.38-0.5    6      Apply as needed.  Use no more
    GUTHION EC-WP                               than four applications/season.
R parathion                  0.5         7      On foliage as needed.  Do not
                                                apply parathion before vining.
R dimecron PHOSPHAMIDON      0.5         1      Apply as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUCUMBER BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        3      On foliage as needed.
  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0         0      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         0      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not
                                                exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac.
R permethrin AMBUSH-POUNCE   0.1-0.2     1      Do not exceed 1.6 lb ai/ac/yr.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SQUASH BEETLE - SQUASH BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         0      On foliage as needed.
R parathion                  0.5         7      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not
                                                exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/yr.
R permethrin AMBUSH-POUNCE   0.1-0.2     1      Do not exceed 1.6 lb ai/ac/yr.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT: GRANULATE CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        3      Apply as needed.

_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  BEET ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        3      Apply as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  THRIPS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  dimethoate CYGON           0.5         3      Apply as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL CARROT WEED CONTROL                        
-DOC-
                        COMMERCIAL CARROT WEED CONTROL
                     W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                    Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST        RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________     
Annual broadleaf and       trifluralin      
grassy weeds.                TREFLAN 4EC     1 to 1 1/2 pt      0.75 to 1.5
 
REMARKS:  Apply preplant and incorporate immediately.  Use high rate on heavy 
soils.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Most annual grasses,        stoddard          
and some broadleaf weeds.    solvent          75 to 100 gal
REMARKS:  Apply after plants become well estblished up to time roots begin
to form.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Some grasses and broad-     linuron            
leaf weeds.                   LOROX 50WP      1.5 to 3 lb        0.75 to 1.5 
 
REMARKS:  Postemergence application when carrots are 2 to 6 in tall.  May 
repeat but do not exceed 4 lb/ac.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL COLLARD INSECT CONTROL                       
-DOC-

                       COMMERCIAL COLLARD INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CATERPILLAR
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  Bacillus thuringiensis  Follow label.  0      On foliage every 7 days.
R mevinphos PHOSDRIN         0.5         7      On foliage when worms appear.
R parathion                  0.5        15      On foliage when worms appear.  
                                                It is not effective at low
                                                temperatures.  Do not harvest 
                                                for 17 days if maximum daily
                                                temperature is below 70oF after
                                                application.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  CATERPILLAR (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45       21      Do not apply when minimum daily
                                                temperatures are 50oF or lower.
                                                Do not apply to collards less 
                                                than 10 in tall or injury to 
                                                the crop may result. 5- to 7-
                                                day interval.  Fresh market 
                                                collards only.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      Apply as needed.  Do not feed
                                                treated crop to livestock.  Do 
                                                not exceed 0.8 lb ai/ac/season.
                                                Ground application only.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  diazinon                   1.0        10      On foliage when aphids appear.
                                                Repeat at weekly intervals if
                                                needed.
R parathion                  0.3-0.5    15      Parathion is not effective at 
                                                low temperatures.  If maximum
                                                daily temperatures below 70oF
                                                persist after application, wait
                                                17 days to harvest.
R mevinphos PHOSDRIN         0.5         7      On foliage as needed.
 dimethoate CYGON            0.25       14      On foliage as needed.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  HARLEQUIN BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0        14      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.75       21      On foliage as needed.
Also parathion and mevinphos 
as for caterpillars
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0        14      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      Apply as needed.  Do not feed
                                                treated crop to livestock.  Do
                                                not exceed 0.8 lb ai/ac/season.
                                                Ground application only.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  VEGETABLE WEEVIL
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        15      On foliage as needed. Parathion
                                                is not effective at low temper-
                                                atures.  If maximum daily 
                                                temperatures below 70oF persist
                                                after application, do not 
                                                harvest for 17 days.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT: GRASSHOPPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      Apply as needed.  Do not feed
                                                treated crop to livestock. Do 
                                                not exceed 0.8 lb ai/ac/season.
                                                Ground application only.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL SWEET CORN WEED CONTROL                      
-DOC-
                      COMMERCIAL SWEET CORN WEED CONTROL
                     W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                    Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST        RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
Most annual grasses,        butylate      
suppression of nutsedge       SUTAN + 6.7E    3 3/4 pt to         3 to 4                    SUTAN + PLUS
                              GENATE + 6.7E   4 3/4 pt
 
REMARKS:  Incorporate to a depth of 2 to 3 in by setting tandem disc 4 to 6 
in deep immediately after application.  Cross disc for best results.  Use 
higher rate on loam and clay soils.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Better control of broad-    butylate +       
leaf weeds than Sutan +     atrazine          3 3/4 pt + 1 qt     3 + 1
alone.                        SUTAN + PLUS
                              ATRAZINE 4L
REMARKS:  Read the label.  Do not plant tobacco or other sensitive crops 
the following year.  Incorporate same as Sutan + .
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Better control of broad-    SUTAN + plus
leaf weeds than Sutan +       PRINCEP 80W     3 3/4 pt +           3 + 2
alone.  Annual grasses,   
some broadleaf weeds.                                
 
REMARKS:  Read the label.  Do not plant tobacco or othr sensitive crops the 
following year.  Incorporate same as Sutan +.  Apply simazine preemergence.  
Simazine is more effective against fall panicum. 
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Broadleaf weeds and         simazine
some annual grasses.        PRINCEP  4L          2 qt                 2
                           
REMARKS:  DO NOT PLANT ANY CROP EXCEPT THOSE SPECIFIED ON LABEL UNTIL THE 
FOLLOWING YEAR.  Do not plant tobacco the following year.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Yellow nutsedge, cockle-    bentazon          
bur, and some other broad-    BASAGRAN        3/4 qt to 1 qt      0.5 to 0.75
leaf weeds.
REMARKS:  Postemergence treatment.  Follow weed chart on label.  May cuase leaf 
speckling.  A second application using same rate may be required with some 
weeds.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Broadleaf weeds             atrazine
and some annual grasses.      ATRAZINE 4L    2 1/2 lb              2
 
REMARKS:  Do not plant any crop except those specified on label until the 
following year.  Do not plant tobacco the following year.
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
*Atrazine now available in various trade names.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL SWEET CORN INSECT CONTROL                      
-DOC-

                      COMMERCIAL SWEET CORN INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CORN EARWORM - FALL ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R PENNCAP-M                  0.5-1.0     3      Start at silking: repeat as
                                                needed--1 to 3-day interval. 
                                                Corn earworm only.  To avoid
                                                injury to honeybees do not 
                                                apply when bees are foraging.
R parathion                  0.25       12      Wet silks thoroughly at 1- to
                                                2-day intervals.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  CORN EARWORM - FALL ARMYWORM (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
  carbaryl SEVIN             1.5         0      Apply at pressure of 100-140 
                                                lb/ sq in on young plants; 
                                                direct spray into whorls of 
                                                plants. As soon as silks 
                                                appear, wet thoroughly at 1- 
                                                to 2-day intervals.  Apply at 
                                                least 25 gal water/ac.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     1      Do not exceed 2.0 lb ai/ac
                                                season.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  CORN EARWORM - FALL ARMYWORM (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45     0 ears    Apply at pressure of 100-140
                                      3 forage  lb/sq in on young plants; 
                                                direct spray into whorls of 
                                                plants.  As soon as silks ap-
                                                pear, wet silks thoroughly at
                                                1 to 2-day intervals.
R permethrin AMBUSH-POUNCE   0.1-0.2     1      Apply as needed.  Do not apply
                                                more than 1.2 lb ai/ac season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    1      Do not exceed .5 lb ai per acre 
                                                per season.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  EUROPEAN CORN BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion + methyl         0.38 +     12      Apply when borers start hatch- 
   parathion (6-3) EC     0.19 (1/2 pt)         ing and at 5-day intervals if
                                                necessary.
R PENNCAP-M                  0.5-1.0     3      Apply on a 1- to 2-day schedule 
                                                for lower rate.
  carbaryl SEVIN             1.5         0      Same as parathion.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45     0 ears    Same as parathion.
                                      3 forage
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  EUROPEAN CORN BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     1      Do not exceed 2.0 lb ai/ac 
                                                season.
R permethrin AMBUSH-POUNCE   0.1-0.2     1      Apply as needed.  Do not apply
                                                more than 1.2 lb ai/ac/season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    1      Do not exceed .5 lb ai per acre 
                                                per season.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CORN LEAF APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     1      Direct spray at aphid colonies.
                                                Aphids not contacted by the 
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    1      spray, such as in whorls and 
                                                leaf axils, may not be 
                                                adequately controlled.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45      0 ears   On foliage as needed.
                                       3 forage
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  ROOTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fonofos DYFONATE G         1.0                Preplant application 4 to 6-in
                                                band.
R parathion G                1.0                Apply in row or broadcast 
                                                before planting and immediately
                                                work into upper 3 in of soil.
R terbufos COUNTER G         1.0                Apply as a 7-in band or 
                                                directly in the seed furrow be-
                                                hind the planter shoe.
R fensulfothion DASANIT G    1.0                Preplant application 4 to 6-in
                                                band.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  ROOTWORM (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________


R phorate THIMET G           1.0                Apply in furrow at planting or
                                                broadcast before planting.
  chlorpyrifos LORSBAN  15G  1.0                Apply in 6 to 7-in band behind
                                                the planter shoe and in front 
                                                of the press wheel. Incorporate 
                                                1 in.
R carbofuran FURADAN 15 G    1.0                Apply in a 7-in band and incor-
                                                porate or drop into the furrow.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  WIREWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
R fonofos DYFONATE G         2.0                Preplant broadcast application.
R terbufos COUNTER G         1.0-2.0            Apply as a 7-in band or 
                                                directly in the seed furrow be-
                                                hind the planter shoe.
  chlorpyrifos LORSBAN       1.0                Apply granules in a 6 to 7-in
                                                band behind planter shoe and in
                                                front of press wheel. Incorpor-
                                                ate 2 in. Lorsban 4E can be 
                                                broadcast preplant. Incorporate
                                                liquid 2-4 in immediately.
R carbofuran FURADAN 15 G    1.0                Apply in a 7-in band and incor-
                                                porate or drop into furrow.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  diazinon                   1.5-2.0            Broadcast and work into soil
                                                before planting.
  chlorpyrifos LORSBAN       1.0        50      Apply granules in a 6 to 7-in
                                                band behind planter shoe and in
                                                front of press wheel. Incorpor-
                                                ate liquid 2-4 in immediately.
                                                Lorsban 4E can also be applied
                                                postemergence.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     1      Do not exceed 2.0 lb ai/ac/ 
                                                season.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  CUTWORM (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R permethrin AMBUSH-POUNCE   0.1-0.2     1      Do not apply more than 1.2 lb
                                                ai/ac/season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    1      Do not exceed .5 lb ai per acre 
                                                per season.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.23-0.45  0 ears  Apply as needed.
                                        3 forage
R carbofuran FURADAN 15 G    1.0                Apply in a 7-in band and incor-
                                                porate or drop into the furrow.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    1      Do not exceed .5 lb ai per acre 
                                                per season.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SEED-CORN MAGGOT
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  chlorpyrifos LORSBAN 15G   1.0        -       Apply directly behind the 
                                                planter shoe into the seed fur-
                                                row.
R fonofos DYFONATE G         0.75       -       Apply in a 6 to 8-in band ahead
                                                of press wheel.  Incorporate 
                                                1 in.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of the product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL CUCUMBER WEED CONTROL                        
-DOC-
                        COMMERCIAL CUCUMBER WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST        RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
Annual grasses, weak on     bensulide        
broadleaf weeds.              PREFAR 4E       4 to 6 qt           4 to 6
 
REMARKS:  Apply preplant and incorporate 2-3 in. immediately.  Follow label 
regarding succession crops.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Annual grasses, broadleaf   bensulide +       
weeds.                      naptalam          
                              PREFAR 4E +     4 to 6 qt +         4 to 6
                              ALANAP 2E       6 qt                3
REMARKS:  Mix the materials in the tank and apply preplant.  Incorporate 1/2 to 
1 in.  Band application has shown effective results.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses, some        DCPA              10.75 to 13.5       8 to 10
broadleaf weeds.              DACTHAL W75     lb
 
REMARKS:  Layby.  Apply as directed spray at last cultivation.  Rainfall or 
irrigation is needed after treatment to ensure good results.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL CUCUMBER INSECT CONTROL                       
-DOC-

                       COMMERCIAL CUCUMBER INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
________________________________________________________________________________

CUCUMBERS - SLICING AND PICKLING      INSECT:  APHID
________________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  diazinon                   0.8-1.0     7      On foliage as needed.
R mevinphos PHOSDRIN         0.25-0.5    1      On foliage as needed.
R parathion                  0.3-0.5    15      Do not apply parathion before
                                                vining.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        3      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5-1.0     1      On foliage as needed.
  malathion                  1.2         2      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  PICKLEWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45-0.9    3      On foliage when worms appear in
                                                blossom.
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         1
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not 
                                                exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/yr.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUCUMBER BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         0      On foliage as needed.
  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0         1      On foliage as needed.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45-0.9    3      On foliage as needed.
  malathion                  1.9         1      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Do not exceed 1.0 lb
                                                ai/ac/season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  THRIPS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        15      On foliage as needed.  Do not
                                                apply before vining.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  LEAF MINER
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        3      On foliage as needed.
R parathion                  0.3-0.5     7      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         0      On foliage as needed.
  diazinon                   0.5         3      On foliage as needed.
  dimethoate CYGON           0.5         3      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

PREPLANT TREATMENT - diazinon 1.5-2.0 lb/ac broadcast.  Broadcast and work into
                     soil before planting.

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Seeding spray for black 
                                                cutworms.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
                                                (Seedling spray)
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  GRANULATE CUTWORM:
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45-0.9    3      Apply as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  BEET ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45-0.9    3      Apply as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SQUASH VINE BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         0      On foliage as needed.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL EGGPLANT WEED CONTROL                       
-DOC-
                       COMMERCIAL EGGPLANT WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                             PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED        PESTICIDE            BROADCAST        RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses and      DCPA               
some small-seeded         DACTHAL 75 WP      10.75.to            8 to 10        
broadleaf weeds.                             13.5 lb
 
REMARKS: Lay by. Apply as directed spray at last cultivation. Rainfall or 
irrigation is needed after treatment to insure good results.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  -
Annual grasses and      napropamide
some broadleaf weeds.     DEVRINOL 50 WP      2 to 4 lb           1 to 2
 
REMARKS: Apply preplant and incorporate. Use higher rate on heavy soil.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL EGGPLANT INSECT CONTROL                       
-DOC-

                       COMMERCIAL EGGPLANT INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHIDS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        15      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5         7      On foliage as needed.
R methomyl NUDRIN-LANNATE    0.23-0.9    5      For control of green peach 
                                                aphid.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R azinphosmethyl GUTHION     0.5         3      On foliage as needed. Do not
                                                apply after first fruit set.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5         7      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      On foliage as needed.
R permethrin AMBUSH-POUNCE   0.1-0.2     3      Apply as needed.  Do not apply
                                                more than 3.0 lb ai/ac/season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Begin application when insects 
                                                or their damage is observed and
                                                repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals 
                                                to achieve control.  Do not 
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per 
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SPIDER MITE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  ethion                     0.5         0      On foliage as needed
  fenbutatin-oxide VENDEX    1.0-2.0     3      Do not exceed six applications
                                                or 6 lb ai/ac/season.
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  HORNWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5         7      On foliage as needed.
  carbaryl SEVIN             1.5         1      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CORN EARWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0-2.0     0      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      On foliage as needed.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Begin application when insects 
                                                or their damage is observed and
                                                repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals 
                                                to achieve control.  Do not 
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per 
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  EGGPLANT LACE BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  malathion                  2.0         3      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  COLORADO POTATO BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0         1      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5         1      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      On foliage as needed.
R permethrin
    AMBUSH-POUNCE            0.2         3      Apply as needed.  Do not apply
                                                more than 3.0 lb ai/ac/season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Begin application when insects 
                                                or their damage is observed and
                                                repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals 
                                                to achieve control.  Do not 
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per 
                                                season.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  EUROPEAN CORN BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      On foliage as needed.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Begin application when insects 
                                                or their damage is observed and
                                                repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals 
                                                to achieve control.  Do not 
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per 
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL GREENS WEED CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         COMMERCIAL GREENS WEED CONTROL
                       W.P. Cook, Extension Horiculturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST        RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
Annual grasses and some       trifluralin      
broadleaf weeds.              TREFLAN 4EC     1 to 1 1/2 pt       0.5 to 0.75
 
REMARKS:  Greens-turnips, collards, kale, mustard apply preplant and 
incorporate immediately.  Use high rate on heavy soils.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL GREENS INSECT CONTROL                        
-DOC-

                        COMMERCIAL GREENS INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

GREENS - TURNIPS GROWN FOR PROCESSING, KALE, MUSTARD, RUTABAGAS, BROCCOLI-RAAB
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  malathion                  1.2    10-turnips  On foliage when aphids appear.
                                 3-if tops not  Repeat weekly as needed.
                                 used for food
                                 7-mustard, kale
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID (cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        10      Parathion is not effective at 
                                                low temperatures.  If maximum
                                                daily temperature below 70oF
                                                persists after application. Do
                                                not harvest for 17 days.
R mevinphos PHOSDRIN         0.25-0.5    3      Not recommended for rutabagas.
  dimethoate CYGON           0.25       14      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT:  CATERPILLAR
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
  dibrom NALED               1.0         4      On foliage every 7 days.
                                   1-turnips
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.75       21      Use on turnips, kale, and 
                                                mustard only. One application/
                                                season.
  Bacillus thuringiensis*    Follow      0      Apply when worms are noticed.
                             label              Repeat in 7 days.
R methomyl NUDRIN-LANNATE    0.45-0.9   10      On foliage as needed.

Also parathion and mevinphos as for aphids.
*Trade names for Bacillus thuringiensis include: Dipel, Thuricide, Sok-Bt and
Bactospeine.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0        14      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.75       21      One application/season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  HARLEQUIN BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0        14      On foliage as needed.
R parathion                  0.5        15      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT:  STINK BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        15      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  VEGETABLE WEEVIL
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        10      Parathion is not effective at 
                                                low temperatures. If maximum
                                                daily temperature below 70 F
                                                persists after application, do
                                                not harvest for 17 days.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL LETTUCE INSECT CONTROL                       
-DOC-

                       COMMERCIAL LETTUCE INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
  diazinon                   0.5        10      On foliage when aphids appear.
                                                Repeat weekly as needed.
  malathion                  1.0-2.0    14
                                     7-head 
                                     lettuce
R mevinphos PHOSDRIN         0.5         2
R parathion                  0.5        21
                                     15-head
                                     lettuce
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  APHID (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R disulfoton DI-SYSTON G     1.0        60      Apply in furrow at planting.
  accphate ORTHENE 75S       0.5-1.0    21      Head lettuce only. Do not feed
                                                residue to livestock. Do not
                                                exceed 6 2/3 lb per acre per
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CATERPILLAR - CORN EARWORM, LOOPER, AND OTHERS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45       10      On foliage as needed.
  Bacillus thuringiensis*    Follow      0      On foliage as needed.
                             label.
R mevinphos-PHOSDRIN         0.5         2

*Trade names for Bacillus thuringiensis include: Dipel, Thuricide, Sok-Bt and
Bactospeine.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  CATERPILLAR - CORN EARWORM, LOOPER, AND OTHERS (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        21      Not effective at low 
                                     15-head    temperatures.
                                     lettuce
R permethrin                 0.1-0.2     1      Head lettuce only. Do not apply
    AMBUSH-POUNCE                               to leaf lettuce. Do not apply
                                                more than 15 applications/ 
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL OKRA WEED CONTROL                          
-DOC-
                          COMMERCIAL OKRA WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST          RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
Annual grasses, some        trifluralin     
broadleaf weeds.              TREFLAN 4EC     1 to 1 1/2 pt       0.5 to 0.75
 
REMARKS:  Apply preplant and incorporate immediately.  Use high rate on heavy 
soils.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL OKRA INSECT CONTROL                         
-DOC-

                         COMMERCIAL OKRA INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  malathion                  0.9                On foliage as needed.  DO NOT
                                                APPLY WHILE PODS ARE ON PLANTS.
R parathion                  0.5        21      On foliage as needed.
R mevinphos PHOSDRIN         0.5         1      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CORN EARWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             2.0         1      On foliage as needed.
R mevinphos PHOSDRIN         0.5         1      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  STINK BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        21      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL ONION WEED CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         COMMERCIAL ONION WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST        RATE lb AI/AC
______________________________________________________________________________
 
Annual grasses, some        DACTHAL W75       8 LB                6
broadleaf weeds.
 
REMARKS:  Apply after planting.  Rainfall or irrigation needed for 
incorporation.  For onions - green and dry bulb.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses and small    chloropropham    
seeded broadleaf weeds.       FURLOE 4EC      2 to 4 pt           2 to 4
REMARKS:  Apply preemergence and up to early loop for seeded onions.  May also 
be applied after onions have three or more true leaves and are 6 in. high.  
Direct spray to wet only lower 1 to 2 in. of onions.  Do not use high rate on 
sandy soils.  On much soils, use 6 to 8 qt/ac.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
                            oxyfluorfen    
Small seeded to broadleaf     GOAL            0.6 qt              0.12
weeds such as pigweed and
purslane.
 
REMARKS:   Onions - dry bulb only:
For direct seeded onions, apply after two true leaves are fully 
developed.  On transplants, spray as soon after transplanting as possible.  
Injury may occur during cool wet weather.  Multiple treatments may be applied 
but total amount must not exceed 2.5 pt in one season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL ONION INSECT CONTROL                        
-DOC-

                        COMMERCIAL ONION INSECT CONTROL
                        R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist

INSECT:  THRIPS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
R PENNCAP-M                  0.5        15      Do not apply during bloom to
                                                avoid killing honeybees.
  diazinon                   0.5        10      On foliage of bulb crop every
                                                10-14 days.  On seed crop when
                                                heads first appear.  Repeat 
                                                every 7 days.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45    28-green   Apply as needed.  Do not exceed
                                      7-dry     two applications/season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  THRIPS (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R azinphosmethyl GUTHION     0.5-0.75 7-green   Do not apply more than three
                                     28-dry     times/season.
R mevinphos PHOSDRIN         0.5         1      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  BEET ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                      MIN DAYS      
                              LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45     28-green  Apply as needed.  Do not exceed
                                       7-dry    two applications/season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  ONION MAGGOT
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fensulfothion DASANIT 15G  1.0        -       Apply at planting.
  diazinon 14G               2.0-4.0    -       Broadcast just prior to 
                                                planting.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL SOUTHERN PEA WEED CONTROL                      
-DOC-
                      COMMERCIAL SOUTHERN PEA WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST          RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
Annual grasses, some        trifluralin      
broadleaf weeds.              TREFLAN 4EC     1 to l l/2 pt       0.5 to 0.75
 
REMARKS:  Apply prelant and incorporate immediately.  Use high rate on heavy 
soils.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses, some        metolachlor
broadleaf weeds.               DUAL           1.25 to 2.5 pts     1.25 to 2.5
 
REMARKS:  Apply preplant incorporated or surface apply after planting.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO WEED CONTROL	                              
-DOC-
                              TOBACCO WEED CONTROL	
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist
                     R. E. Currin, III, Research Agronomist	 
	
TOBACCO - PLANT BEDS                    READ THE HERBICIDE LABEL BEFORE USE
_____________________________________________________________________________	
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED                 
PESTICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_____________________________________________________________________________	
R DOW FUME,           98% ai                9.0 lb/100 sq yd       427.0	
  BROM-O-GAS, etc.

REMARKS: Hand application. Follow manufacturer's suggestions.	
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
R BROZONE,            68.6% ai              10.3 lb/100 sq yd      342.0
  BROM-0-SOL	

REMARKS: Machine application. Follow manufacturer's suggestions.	
Caution: Handle with care	
_____________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.	
TOBACCO - PLANT BEDS
_______________________________________________________________________________	
                                                    RECOMMENDED RATE
                                            FORMULATED                 
HERBICIDE          FORMULATION              PRODUCT/AC             AI (LB/AC)
_______________________________________________________________________________
ENIDE 90W          90% wettable powder      1.7 oz/100 sq yd       4.6

REMARKS:  Controls annual grasses and some broadleaf weeds.  Apply at  seeding.
Do  not  mix  with  other  chemicals before application.  Do not substitute for 
gassing beds.  
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL PEPPER WEED CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         COMMERCIAL PEPPER WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST       RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
Most annual and perennial   Peppers-transp:
weeds.                      methyl bromide    various             240
                            (various trade
                            names)
 
REMARKS:  Inject into the soil 4 to 6 in. deep and cover with tarp immediately.  
Soil moisture should be near field capacity and soil temperature should be at 
F at treatment depth.  Allow 2 wk after application before seeding 
or transplanting.  If plastic tarp is removed, disking before planting will 
facilitiate aeration.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses, some        trifluralin       
broadleaf weeds.              TREFLAN 4EC     1 to 2 pt           0.5 to 1.0
 
REMARKS:  Apply preplant and incorporate immediately.  Use high rate on heavy 
soils.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses, most        diphenamid       
broadleaf weeds.              ENIDE 50W       8 lb                4
 
REMARKS:  Apply over top of transplants at or within 30 days after 
transplanting.  Irrigate if 0.5 in. rain does does not occur within 5-7 days.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses and         napropamide     
some broadleaf weeds.       DEVRINOL 50 WP   2 to 4 lb            1 to 2
 
REMARKS:  Apply preplant and incorporate.  Use higher rate on heavy soil.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses and some     DCPA            
broadleaf weeds.              DACTHAL 75W     8 to 10           10.75 to 13.5
 
REMARKS:  Lay by.  Apply as directed spray at last cultivation.  Rainfall or 
irrigation is needed after treatment to ensure good results.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL PEPPER INSECT CONTROL                        
-DOC-

                        COMMERCIAL PEPPER INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

PEPPERS - ALL KINDS         INSECT: APHIDS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        3      On foliage as needed.
  acephate ORTHENE 75S       1.0         7      Bell peppers only.
R parathion                  0.5        15      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5         1      On foliage as needed.
  dimethoate CYGON           0.3         0      Use as needed.  Bell peppers
                                                only.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  BEET ARMYWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        3      Begin when insects first 
                                                appear.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      Begin when insects first
                                                appear.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Begin application when insects 
                                                or their damage is observed and
                                                repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals
                                                to achieve control.  Do not
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CABBAGE LOOPER
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        3      Begin when insects first 
                                                appear.
  acephate ORTHENE 75S       0.5-1.0     7      On foliage as needed.  Bell
                                                peppers only.
R permethrin                 0.1-0.2     3      Do not apply more than 1.6 lb
    AMBUSH-POUNCE                               ai/ac/season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Begin application when insects 
                                                or their damage is observed and
                                                repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals
                                                to achieve control.  Do not
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  COLARADO POTATO BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0         1      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5         1      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      On foliage as needed.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Begin application when insects 
                                                or their damage is observed and
                                                repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals
                                                to achieve control.  Do not
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CORN EARWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0-2.0     0      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      On foliage as needed.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Begin application when insects 
                                                or their damage is observed and
                                                repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals
                                                to achieve control.  Do not
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________

BAIT - 5% DYLOX bait at the rate of 20 lb bait/ac.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  EUROPEAN CORN BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  acephate ORTHENE 75S       1.0         7      Bell peppers only.
R carbofuran FURADAN 10G   0.5 lb form  21      Make first application 2-4 wk
                           500 row ft           after transplanting (sidedress
                           plus 0.7 lb          application).  Make second 
                           form./500 row        application 4-6 wk after first
                           ft                   application (sidedress appli-
                                                cation).
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  EUROPEAN CORN BORER (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R permethrin                 0.1-0.2     3      Do not apply more than 1.6 lb
    AMBUSH-POUNCE                               ai/ac/season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Begin application when insects 
                                                or their damage is observed and
                                                repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals
                                                to achieve control.  Do not
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per
                                                season.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT: FLEA BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________

R azinphosmethyl GUTHION     0.5         3      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5-1.0     4      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      On foliage as needed.
R permethrin                 0.1-0.2     3      Do not apply more than 1.6 lb
   AMBUSH-POUNCE                                ai/ac/season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Begin application when insects 
                                                or their damage is observed and
                                                repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals
                                                to achieve control.  Do not
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  HORNWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5-1.0     4      On foliage as needed.
  carbaryl SEVIN             1.5         1      On foliage as needed.
  acephate ORTHENE 75S       0.5-1.0     7      On foliage as needed.  Bell
                                                peppers only.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  PEPPER MAGGOT
_______________________________________________________________________________
  dimethoate CYGON           0.3         0      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5         1      On foliage as needed.
  malathion                  1.5         3      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  PEPPER WEEVIL
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R permethrin                 0.1-0.2     3      Apply as needed.  Do not exceed
   AMBUSH-POUNCE                                1.6 lb ai/ac/season.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      Apply as needed.  Do not exceed
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Begin application when insects 
                                                or their damage is observed and
                                                repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals
                                                to achieve control.  Do not
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per
                                                season.
                                                1.4 lb ai/ac/season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SPIDER MITE
_______________________________________________________________________________

  ethion                     0.5         0      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL IRISH POTATO WEED CONTROL                     
-DOC-
                     COMMERCIAL IRISH POTATO WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST        RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
Nutsedge suppression,       EPTC              Broadcast           1.5
annual grasses, some          EPTAM 7E        3 1/2 pt
broadleaf weeds.              GENEP 7E        Bed over
                                              1 3/4 pt
 
REMARKS:  Broadcast and incorporate immediately by bedding.  Bed over rate is  
one half of broadcast treatments.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses, some        diphenamid       
broadleaf weeds.              ENIDE 50WP      8 lb                4
REMARKS:  Apply preemergence at planting or immediately after planting.  Use 5-
lb rate on heavy soils.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses, small       linuron          
weeds.                        LOROX 50WP      2 lb                1
 
REMARKS:  Apply preemergence.  If emerged weeds are present, use 1 pt of 
surfactant for each 25 gal of mixture.  Irrigate if 1 in. of rain does not fall 
within 7-10 days.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Some annual grasses and     metribuzin       
broadleaf weeds.              SENCOR 50WP     1 to 2 lb           0.5 to l.0
                              LEXONE 4L       1 to 2 pt
                              LEXONE DF       2/3 to 1 1/3 lb
 
REMARKS:  Apply preemergence after planting or after drag-off.  Do not 
incorporate.  Use low rate on sandy soils.  Onions, lettuce, cole crops, and 
curcurbits may be injured the following year.
________________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL IRISH POTATO INSECT CONTROL                     
-DOC-

                     COMMERCIAL IRISH POTATO INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
R methamidophos MONITOR      0.5-1.0    14      Apply 7 to 10-day intervals.
R disulfoton DI-SYSTON G     2.0-3.0    75      Apply in furrow at planting or
                                                broadcast before planting.
R phorate THIMET G           2.0-3.0    90      Same as disulfoton.
R parathion                  0.3-0.5     5      On foliage as needed.
R aldicarb TEMIK G           2.0-3.0    90      Apply in furrow at planting.
  diazinon                   0.4-0.5    14      Apply weekly as needed.
R methomyl NUDRIN-LANNATE    0.45-0.9    6      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5-1.0     0      Apply weekly as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  POTATO LEAFHOPPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not graze live- 
                                                stock on treated vines.  Do not
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT: COLORADO POTATO BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0         0      On foliage when eggs begin to 
                                                hatch.  Repeat as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5-1.0     0      Same as carbaryl.
R methamidophos MONITOR      0.5-1.0    14      Apply 7 to 10-day intervals.
R PENNCAP-M                  0.5-1.5     5      Apply as needed.
R disulfoton DI-SYSTON G     2.0-3.0    75      Apply in furrow at planting or
                                                broadcast before planting.
R phorate THIMET G           2.0-3.0    90      Same as disulfoton.
R aldicarb TEMIK G           2.0-3.0    90      Apply in furrow at planting.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT: COLORADO POTATO BEETLE (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      Repeat as necessary.  Do not 
                                                graze livestock on treated 
                                                vines.  Do not exceed 1.4 lb 
                                                ai/ac/season.
R permethrin                 0.1-0.2     7      Do not apply more than 2.4 lb
    AMBUSH-POUNCE                               ai/ac/season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not graze live- 
                                                stock on treated vines.  Do not
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE ADULT
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             0.5-0.8     0      On foliage as needed.
R permethrin                 0.1-0.2     7      Do not apply more than 2.4 lb
    AMBUSH, POUNCE                              ai/ac/season.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5-1.0     0      Same as carbaryl.
R methamidophos MONITOR      0.5-1.0    14      Apply 7 to 10-day intervals.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        6      Apply as needed.
R disulfoton DI-SYSTON G     2.0-3.0    75      Apply in furrow at planting or
                                                broadcast before planting.
R aldicarb TEMIK G           3.0        90      Apply in furrow at planting.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE ADULT (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R phorate THIMET G           2.0-3.0    90      Apply in furrow at planting or
                                                broadcast before planting.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.05-0.1    7      Repeat as necessary.  Do not
                                                graze livestock on treated 
                                                vines.  Do not exceed 1.4 lb
                                                ai/ac/season.
R PENNCAP-M                  0.5-1.0     5      On foliage as needed.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not graze live- 
                                                stock on treated vines.  Do not
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  TUBERWORM
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methamidophos MONITOR      0.5-1.0    14      Apply 7 to 10-day intervals.
R azinphosmethyl GUTHION     0.75        7      Thorough coverage necessary.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      Same as fenvalerate under Flea
                                                beetle.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45-0.9    6      Apply as needed.
R permethrin AMBUSH, POUNCE  0.1-0.2     7      Do not exceed 2.4 lb ai/ac/
                                                season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .0125-.025  7      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not graze live- 
                                                stock on treated vines.  Do not
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  SOUTHERN POTATO WIREWORM
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
  diazinon                   2.0    Preplant    Broadcast on soil and immedi-
                                   application  ately work thoroughly into 
                                                upper 4-6 in of soil.  Do not
                                                apply after planting.
R disulfoton DI-SYSTON G     2.0-3.0    75      Apply in furrow at planting or
                                                broadcast before planting.
R phorate THIMET G           2.0-3.0    90      Same as disulfoton.
R fonofos DYFONATE G         2.0     Preplant   Broadcast on soil and immedi- 
                                                ately work thoroughly into 
                                                upper 4-6 in of soil.  Do not
                                                apply after planting.
R fensulfothion DASANIT G    2.0    Preplant    Broadcast on soil and work into
                                   application  3-4 in of soil.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  EUROPEAN CORN BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     7      Apply as needed.  See flea
                                                beetle for remarks.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    7      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not graze live- 
                                                stock on treated vines.  Do not
                                                exceed .35 lb ai per acre per
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL SWEET POTATO WEED CONTROL                      
-DOC-
                      COMMERCIAL SWEET POTATO WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST        RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
Annual grasses, some        diphenamid       
broadleaf weeds.              ENIDE 50W       8 lb                4
 
REMARKS:  Apply over top of transplants at or within 30 days after 
transplanting.  Irrigate if 0.5 in. of rain does not occur within 5-7 days.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses and          chloramben       
and certain broadleaf         AMIBEN 2SL      2 gal               4
weeds.
 
REMARKS:  Apply immediately after transplanting.
________________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL SWEET POTATO INSECT CONTROL                      
-DOC-

                     COMMERCIAL SWEET POTATO INSECT CONTROL 
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                     
INSECT:  APHIDS, CUCUMBER BEETLES, FLEA BEETLES AND CATERPILLARS
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5         0      Apply on foliage as needed
                                                for control.
  parathion                  0.5        15 

  methyl parathion           0.75        5     
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  WIREWORM AND FLEA BEETLE LARVAE
_______________________________________________________________________________

      Lorsban 15G applied preplant incorporated at the rate of 2.0 lb ai/ac 
(13.5 lb formulation) followed by a root-swell over-the-top application of 
Diazinon 14G at 3 lb ai/ac (21 lb formulation) provides helpful control.  Over- 
all results may be variable depending on insect, pressure and environmental 
conditions.  Growers should avoid planting sweet potatoes in fields that have a 
high potential for soil insect problems or that have had a history of problems.
_______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL PUMPKIN WEED CONTROL                        
-DOC-
                        COMMERCIAL PUMPKIN WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST        RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
Most annual grasses, but    bensulide         
weak on broadleaf weeds.      PREFAR 4E       5 to 6 qt           5 to 6
 
REMARKS:  Apply preplant and incorporate 1-2 in. deep immediately.  Follow 
label regarding succession crops.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses and          chloramben
selected broadleaf            AMIBEN          30 lb               3.0
weeds.                          GRANULAR
                              AMIBEN          6 qt
                              AMIBEN DS       3.6 lb
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL PUMPKIN INSECT CONTROL                       
-DOC-

                       COMMERCIAL PUMPKIN INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID:
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        10      Apply as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5-1.0     0      Apply as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  CUCUMBER BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
R parathion                  0.5        10      Apply as needed.
  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0         0      To avoid possible injury on 
                                                tender foliage, do not apply 
                                                when foliage is wet or when
                                                rain or excessive humidity is
                                                expected in the next 2 days.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac
                                                season.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5-1.0     0      Apply as needed.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SQUASH BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        10      Apply as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not
                                                exceed 1.o lb ai/ac/season.
R permethrin AMBUSH-POUNCE   0.2         1      Do not exceed 4 applications/
                                                yr.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SQUASH VINE BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        10      Apply as needed.  Apply weekly
                                                when moths first appear.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5-1.0     0      Apply as needed.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/sea-
                                                son.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  PICKLEWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not 
                                                exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0         0      See remarks under cucumber 
                                                beetle.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  VARIEGATED CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  trichlorfon DYLOX          0.5-1.0     3      Do not apply more than three
                                                times/season.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/
                                                season.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        0.025-0.05  3      Do not exceed .25 lb ai/ac/
                                                season.
______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  MELONWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R permethrin AMBUSH-POUNCE   0.2         1      Do not exceed 4 applications/
                                                season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL SPINACH INSECT CONTROL                       
-DOC-

                       COMMERCIAL SPINACH INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R disulfoton
  DI-SYSTON 8           1.0 (6 fl oz/           Planting time application only.
                        1,000 row ft            Do not apply directly on seed.
  DI-SYSTON 15G         4 oz/1,000 row ft
  malathion                  1.2   10-turnips   On foliage when aphids appear.
                                 3-if tops not  Repeat weekly as needed.
                                 used for food
                               7-mustard, kale
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  APHID (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        10      Parathion is not effective at
                                                low temperatures.  If maximum
                                                daily temperature below 70 F
                                                persists after application.  Do
                                                not harvest for 17 days.
R mevinphos PHOSDRIN         0.25-0.5    3      Not recommended for rutabagas.
  dimethoate CYGON           0.25       14      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  VEGETABLE WEEVIL
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R PARATHION                  0.5        14      Apply as needed.
  rotenone                   0.5         1      Apply as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

PREPLANT TREATMENT - diazinon 1.5-2.0 lb/ac broadcast.
                   - Broadcast and work into soil before planting.

R permethrin                 0.1         7      Do not apply more than 0.7 lb
   AMBUSH-POUNCE                                ai/ac/season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CABBAGE LOOPER, CORN EARWORM, EUROPEAN CORN BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R permethrin                 0.1         7      Do not apply more than 0.7 lb
    AMBUSH-POUNCE                               ai/ac/season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL SQUASH WEED CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         COMMERCIAL SQUASH WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticultuist
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST       RATE lb AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
Annual grasses, weak on     bensulide
broadleaf weeds.               PREFAR 4E     5 to 6 qt           5 to 6
 
REMARKS:  Apply preplant and incorporate 2-3 in. immediately.  Follow label 
regarding succession crops.  Summer squash only.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses and          chloramben
selected broadleaf            AMIBEN          30 lb               3.0
weeds.                        GRANULAR
                              AMIBEN          6 qt
                              AMIBEN DS       3.6 lb
 
REMARKS:  Treat at planting or as soon as possible before weeds and crops 
emerge.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL SQUASH INSECT CONTROL                        
-DOC-

                        COMMERCIAL SQUASH INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        3      On foliage as needed.  Summer
                                                squash only.
  diazinon                   0.5         7      On foliage as needed.
                                 3-winter squash
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         1      On foliage as needed.
R parathion                  0.3-0.5    15      On foliage as needed.
R oxydemeton-methyl
    METASYSTOX R             0.38-0.5   14      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT: CUCUMBER BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.3-0.5    15      On foliage as needed.
  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0         1      On foliage as needed.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        3      On foliage as needed.  Summer
                                                squash only.
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         1      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/yr.
                                                Do not apply on zucchini as 
                                                injury may occur.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05     3     Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb 
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SQUASH VINE BORER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        15      Apply as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         1      Apply weekly when moths first
                                                appear.  
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/yr.
                                                Do not apply on zucchini as 
                                                injury may occur.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05     3     Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb 
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  PICKLEWORM
______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         1      On foliage as needed.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        3      Summer squash only.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not
                                                exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/yr. Do not
                                                apply on zucchini as injury may
                                                occur.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05     3     Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb 
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SQUASH BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        15      Apply as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0-2.0     1      Apply as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not 
                                                exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/yr.  Do not
                                                apply on zucchini as injury may
                                                occur. 
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05     3     Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb 
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUTWORM
________________________________________________________________________________

PREPLANT TREATMENT - diazinon 1.5-2.0 lb/ac broadcast.  Broadcast and work
                     into soil before planting.

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not 
                                                exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/yr.  Do not
                                                apply on zucchini as injury may
                                                occur. Postemergence treatment.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05     3     Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb 
                                                ai per acre per season.
                                                (Seedling spray).
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL TOMATO WEED CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         COMMERCIAL TOMATO WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST           RATE AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
Most annual and            
perennial weeds.            methylbromide     various             240
                            (various trade
                            names)
 
REMARKS: Transplant tomatoes only. Inject into soil 4-6 in. deep and cover with tarp immediately.  Soil 
F at 
treatment depth.  Allow 2 wk after application before seeding or transplanting.  
If plastic tarp is removed, disking before planting will facilitate aeration.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses and          napropamide     
some broadleaf weeds.        DEVRINOL 50 WP   2 to 4 lb           1 to 2
REMARKS:  Apply preplant and incorporate.  May be applied as surface 
application between rows of plastic mulch and irrigated if rainfall does not 
occur in 24 hr.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -                 
Nutsedge suppression.       pebulate        
Annual grasses, some          TILLAM 6E       2/3 gal             4
broadleaf weeds.
 
REMARKS:  Apply in rows and bed on 7 days before transplanting.  Incorporate 
within 15 min. of application.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses, some        trifluralin      
broadleaf weeds.              TREFLAN 4EC     1 to 2 pt           0.5 to l.0
 
REMARKS:  Apply preplant and incorporate immediately.  May be applied and 
incorporated from 10 wk up to transplanting.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Annual grasses, some        diphenamid      
broadleaf weeds.              ENIDE 50W       8 lb                4
REMARKS:  Apply over top at or within 30 days after transplanting.  Irrigate if 
0.5 in. rain does not occur within 5-7 days.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Broadleaf weeds.  Will      metribuzin       
slow growth of some           SENCOR 50WP     1 lb                0.5
grasses.                      LEXONE 4L       1 pt
                              LEXONE 75DF     2/3 lb
 
REMARKS:  Apply to middles between rows of plastic mulch or apply at layby - 
use a directed spray at last cultivation.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Annual grasses, some       
broadleaf weeds.            diphenamid      
                              ENIDE 50W       8 lb                4
 
REMARKS:  For direct seeded tomatoes apply preemergence after seeding or to
plants within 1 mo. after seeding.  Irrigate if 0.5 in. of rain does not occur
within 5-7 days.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL TOMATO INSECT CONTROL                        
-DOC-

                        COMMERCIAL TOMATO INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        1      On foliage as needed.
R parathion                  0.5        10      On foliage as needed.
  diazinon                   0.25        1      On foliage as needed.
  disulfoton DI-SYSTON 15G   2.0-3.0    30      Soil application to furrow at
                                                planting.
  endosulfan THIODAN         0.5         1      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  COLORADO POTATO BEETLE - FLEA BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN             1.0         1      On foliage as needed.
R azinphosmethyl GUTHION     0.38        0      On foliage as needed.
R disulfoton DI-SYSTON 15G   2.0-3.0    30      Soil application to furrow at
                                                planting.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     1      Some bleaching or spotting may
                                                occur on foliage of young 
                                                plants.  This does not affect 
                                                yield or fruit quality.
R PENNCAP-M                  1.0        15      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  COLORADO POTATO BEETLE - FLEA BEETLE (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    1      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not feed or graze
                                                livestock on treated vines.  Do
                                                not exceed .5 lb ai per acre 
                                                per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  dylox 5% bait              1.0        28      Apply as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     1      Do not exceed 2.0 lb ai/ac/yr.
                                                Some bleaching or spotting may
                                                occur on foliage of young 
                                                plants.  This does not affect
                                                yield or fruit quality.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        1      Apply as needed.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    1      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not feed or graze
                                                livestock on treated vines.  Do
                                                not exceed .5 lb ai per acre 
                                                per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  TOMATO PINWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
R azinphosmethyl GUTHION     0.75-1.0    0      When using rates higher than 
                                                0.75 lb ai/ac, the waiting
                                                period before harvest is 14
                                                days.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN +  0.25+0.5    1      Methomyl + Bt should be used
    Bacillus thuringiensis*                     when leafminers have been a
                                                problem (less toxic to para-
                                                site of leafminer).
_______________________________________________________________________________
*Trade names for Bacillus thuringiensis include: Dipel, Thuricide, Sok-BT, 
Bactur, and Bactospeine.

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  TOMATO PINWORM (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R PENNCAP-M                  1.0        15      Apply as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     1      Some bleaching or spotting may
                                                occur on foliage of young 
                                                plants.  This does not affect
                                                yield or fruit quality.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    1      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not feed or graze
                                                livestock on treated vines.  Do
                                                not exceed .5 lb ai per acre 
                                                per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FRUITWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  carbaryl SEVIN +           1.0+0.5     1      Apply as needed.
    Bacillus thuringiensis*
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN +  0.23+0.5    1      Methomyl + Bt could be used 
    Bacillus thuringiensis*                     when leafminers have been 
                                                problem (less toxic to parasite 
                                                of leafminer).
R PENNCAP-M                  1.0        15      Apply as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN +       1.0-0.5     1      Endosulfan + Bt could be used 
  Bacillus thuringiensis*                       when leafminers have been 
                                                problem (less toxic to parasite
                                                of leafminer).
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  FRUITWORM (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     1      Some bleaching or spotting may 
                                                occur on foliage of young 
                                                plants.  This does not affect
                                                yield or fruit quality.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    1      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not feed or graze
                                                livestock on treated vines.  Do
                                                not exceed .5 lb ai per acre 
                                                per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_____________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  HORNWORM
______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R PENNCAP-M                  1.0        15      Apply as needed.
  carbaryl SEVIN             2.0         1      On foliage as needed.
  Bacillus thuringiensis*    1.0-2.0     0      Apply as needed.
  carbaryl SEVIN +           1.0+0.5     1      Apply as needed.
    Bacillus thuringiensis*  
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         1      Apply as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
*Trade names for Bacillus thuringiensis include: Dipel, Thuricide, Sok-BT,
Bactur, and Bactospeine.

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
INSECT:  HORNWORM (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.05-0.1    1      Apply as needed.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45        1      Apply as needed.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .0125-.05   1      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not feed or graze
                                                livestock on treated vines.  Do
                                                not exceed .5 lb ai per acre 
                                                per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  LOOPER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN +       1.0+0.5     1      Apply as needed.
    Bacillus thuringiensis*
    Bacillus thuringiensis*  1.0         0      Apply as needed.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN +  0.25+0.5    1      Apply as needed.
    Bacillus thuringiensis*
______________________________________________________________________________
*Trade names for Bacillus thuringiensis include: Dipel, Thuricide, Sok-BT,
Bactur, and Bactospeine.

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

INSECT:  LOOPER (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     1      Some bleaching or spotting may
                                                occur on foliage of young 
                                                plants.  This does not affect
                                                yield or fruit quality.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    1      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not feed or graze
                                                livestock on treated vines.  Do
                                                not exceed .5 lb ai per acre 
                                                per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  SPIDER MITE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  demeton SYSTOX             0.25        3      Apply as needed.
  ethion EC                  0.5         2      Apply as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  STINK BUG
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         1      On foliage as needed.  Time
                                                applications to kill nymphs
                                                before they mature.
R azinphosmethyl GUTHION     0.5         0      On foliage as needed.
R parathion                  0.5        10      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  LEAFMINER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methamidophos MONITOR      0.75-1.0   14      A maximum of five appl/season.
                                                Not less than 50 gal water if 
                                                by ground appl.  This is a 24-C
                                                registration.
  oxymil VYDATE              0.5-1.0     1      A maximum of nine appl/season.
                                                Follow label for gallonage of
                                                water/ac.  This is a 24-C 
                                                registration.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.2         1      Some bleaching or spotting may
                                                occur on foliage of young 
                                                plants.  This does not affect
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  LEAFMINER (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                yield or fruit quality.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    1      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not feed or graze
                                                livestock on treated vines.  Do
                                                not exceed .5 lb ai per acre 
                                                per season.

Inspect transplants for leafminers and plant only insect-free plants.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  WHITEFLY
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5        10      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     1      On foliage as needed.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    1      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not feed or graze
                                                livestock on treated vines.  Do
                                                not exceed .5 lb ai per acre 
                                                per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  THRIPS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  dimethoate CYGON           0.25-0.5    7      When used as for aphids, 
                                                dimethoate will give control of
                                                thrips.
_______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL WATERMELON WEED CONTROL                      
-DOC-
                      COMMERCIAL WATERMELON WEED CONTROL
                      W.P. Cook, Extension Horticulturist
                      Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulture
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                              PRODUCT /AC/       RATE lb
WEEDS CONTROLLED            PESTICIDE         BROADCAST           AI/AC
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
Annual grasses, weak on     bensulide         
broadleaf weeds.              PREFAR 4E       5 to 6 qt           5 to 6
 
REMARKS:  Apply preplant and incorporate 2-3 in. immediately.  Follow label 
regarding succession crops.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Annual grasses, broad-      bensulide +      
leaf weeds.                 napthalam                 
                              PREFAR 4E +     4 to 6 qt +         4 to 6 +
                              ALANAP          6 qt                3
REMARKS:  Layby.  Apply as a directed spray at last cultivation.  Rainfall or 
irrigation is needed after treatment to ensure good results.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Annual grasses and          DCPA              8.0 to 10.7 lb      6 to 8
some broadleaf weeds.        DACTHAL W 75
 
REMARKS: Lay by. Apply as a directed spray at last cultivation. Rainfall or 
irrigation is needed after treatment to insure good results.
______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMERCIAL WATERMELON INSECT CONTROL                      
-DOC-

                      COMMERCIAL WATERMELON INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  APHID
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  diazinon                   0.5         3      On foliage as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         0      On foliage as needed.
R parathion                  0.3-0.5     7      On foliage as needed.
R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45-0.9    3      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUCUMBER BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         0      On foliage as needed.
  malathion                  1.0-2.0     1      On foliage as needed.
R parathion                  0.3-0.5     7      Do not apply parathion before
                                                vining.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/yr.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  CUTWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  2.0                Broadcast before planting.
  diazinon                   2.0-4.0            Broadcast and incorporate 
                                                immediately before planting.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not
                                                exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/yr.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.  
                                                (Seedling spray).
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  LEAFMINER
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  dimethoate CYGON           0.3-0.5     3      On foliage as needed.
R azinophosmethyl GUTHION    0.5         0      On foliage as needed.
R parathion                  0.3-0.5     7      On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  MELON WORM - PICKLEWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R methomyl LANNATE-NUDRIN    0.45-0.9    3      Treat when worms first appear 
                                  (0.5 lb rate) in blossoms or on foliage. 
                                                Treat again as needed.
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         0      On foliage as needed.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not
                                                exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/yr.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        .025-.05    3      Repeat as necessary to maintain
                                                control.  Do not exceed .25 lb
                                                ai per acre per season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  RINDWORM
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

R parathion                  0.5         3      Apply when present.
  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0D        1      On foliage as needed.
                             0.5 EC & WP
R azinphosmethyl GUTHION     0.5         0      Apply no more than four times/
                                                season.
R fenvalerate PYDRIN         0.1-0.2     3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not
                                                exceed 1.0 lb ai/ac/yr.
R esfenvalerate ASANA        0.025-0.05  3      Repeat as necessary.  Do not
                                                exceed .25 lb ai/ac/season.
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
________________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE
________________________________________________________________________________
                                    MIN DAYS      
                             LB     LAST APPL
PESTICIDE                   AI/AC   TO HARVEST    APPLICATION AND REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

  endosulfan THIODAN         1.0         0      On foliage as needed.
________________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN INSECT CONTROL                     
-DOC-

                     HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN INSECT CONTROL
                     R. P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist

CROP:  ASPARAGUS       INSECT:  ASPARAGUS BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            3 tbsp                    1
                       80% WP            2 tbsp                    1
REMARK:  Treat spurs and vine growth as soon as beetles appear and repeat
         as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
rotenone               4% WP             6 tbsp                    1
______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  BEANS           INSECT:  APHID AND THRIPS
-DOC-

CROP:  BEANS           INSECT:  APHID AND THRIPS
______________________________________________________________________________

                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

dimethoate             2.67 lb conc      1 1/2 tsp                 0
  CYGON, DE-FEND

REMARK:  Apply treatment on foliage when aphids appear.  Repeat whenever
         they appear.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion CYTHION      50% EC            2 tsp                     1
                       57% EC            1 1/2 tsp                 1
                       25% WP            5 tbsp                    1
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                       INSECT:  APHID AND THRIPS  (cont.)
______________________________________________________________________________

                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     7
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
endosulfan THIODAN     50% WP            2 tbsp                    3
                       3% D              1.5 OZ/50 row ft          3

REMARK:  Not more than three application/season.  Do not use on limas. 
         Thiogard 3 (Security brand) is 9.7% Thiodan and can be used on lima
         beans not intended for commercial processing.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                       INSECT:  BEAN BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________

                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon               25% EC            2                         7
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            3 tbsp                    0
                       80% WP            2 tbsp                    0
                       5% D              0.45 lb/1000 sq ft        0

REMARK:  Apply treatment at first sign of leaf-feeding and repeat whenever
         leaf-feeding reappears.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                       INSECT:  BEAN BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________

                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

rotenone               4% WP             6 tbsp                    1
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

malathion CYTHION      57% EC            1 1/2 tsp                 1
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

endosulfan THIODAN     50% WP            2 tbsp                    3
                       3% D              1.5 oz/50 row ft          3

REMARK:  Not more than three applications/season.  Do not use on limas.
         Thiogard 3 (Security brand) is 9.7% Thiodan and can be used on limas
         not intended for commercial processing.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                      INSECT: TWO-SPOTTED SPIDER MITE
______________________________________________________________________________

                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

Kelthane               35% WP            1 tbsp                    7
                       18.5% WP          2 tbsp                    7
                       18.5% EC          1 tsp                     7
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

ethion                 25% WP            2 tbsp                    2

REMARK:  Apply treatment at the first sign of off-coloring stippling of the
         foliage and repeat in 5 days.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                     INSECT:  BEAN LEAF SKELETONIZER
______________________________________________________________________________

                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

endosulfan THIODAN     2 EC              3 tbsp                    3
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    3

REMARK:  Do not use on limas.  Do not exceed three application/season.  
         Thiogard 3 (Security brand) is 9.7% Thiodan and can be used on limas
         not intended for commercial processing.
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                       INSECT:  STINK BUG
______________________________________________________________________________

                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

endosulfan THIODAN     50% WP            2 tbsp                    3
                       2 EC              3 tbsp                    3
                       3% D              1.5 oz/50 row ft          3

REMARK:  Do not use on limas.  Do not exceed three applications/season.  
         Thiogard 3 (Security brand) is 9.7% Thiodan and can be used on limas
         not intended for commercial processing.
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                     INSECT:  JAPANESE BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________

                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         5% D              0.5 lb/1000 sq ft         0
                       80% WP            2 tbsp                    0

REMARK:  Apply when insects appear.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  CATERPILLAR
______________________________________________________________________________

                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            3 tbsp                    1
                       80% WP            2 tbsp                    1

Bacillus thuringiensis                   Follow label.

REMARK:  Apply when insects appear.

Trade names for Bacillus thuringiensis include Dipel, Thuricide, Sok-BT, 
Bactur, and Bactospeine.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COLE CROPS: CABBAGE, CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS SPROUTS AND COLLARDS
-DOC-

COLE CROPS: CABBAGE, CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS SPROUTS AND COLLARDS
                       INSECT:  APHID
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
malathion CYTHION      50% EC            2 tsp        Malathion
                       57% EC            1 1/2 tsp    Cabbage      7
                       25% WP            1 tbsp       Cauliflower  7
                                                      Brussels
                                                        sprouts    7
                                                      Broccoli     3
                                                      Collards     7
 ----------------------------------------------------
diazinon SPECTRACIDE   25% EC            2 tsp        Diazinon
 ---------------------------------------------------- Cabbage      7
endosulfan THIODAN     3% D          1.5 oz/50 row ft Cauliflower  5
                       50% WP            2 tbsp       Brussells
                       2 EC              3 tbsp         sprouts    7
 ---------------------------------------------------- Collards     10
                       INSECT: CABBAGE WORM
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

 ---------------------------------------------------- Thiodan
carbaryl SEVIN         50% wp            4 tbsp       Cabbage      7
                       80% WP            2 1/2 tbsp   Broccoli     7
                       5% D              0.5-1.0 lb/  Brussels
                                         1000 sq ft     sprouts    14
 ---------------------------------------------------- Cauliflower  14
malathion CYTHION      50% EC            2 tsp        Collards     21
                       57% EC            1 1/2 tsp
                       25% WP            5 tbsp       Sevin
 ---------------------------------------------------- 3 days for all these 
diazinon               25% EC            1 tsp        cole crops.
 ---------------------------------------------------- Chinese Cabbage 14
                        INSECT: CABBAGE WORM (cont)
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

endosulfan THIODAN     3% D              1.5 oz/50
                                         row ft
                       50% WP            2 tbsp
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bacillus thuringiensis Dipel,            Follow label.
                       Thuricide, Sok-BT
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp        Same as above.
 -------------------------------------------------------------------
carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            2 tbsp       Same as Sevin.
                       80% WP            1 1/4 tbsp
 -------------------------------------------------------------------
endosulfan THIODAN     50% WP            2 tbsp       Same as Thiodan.
                       3% D              1.5 oz/50 row ft
 -------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion CYTHION      50% EC            2 tsp        Same as malathion
                       57% EC            2 tsp        above.
                       25% WP            2 tbsp

REMARK:  Apply treatment as soon as tiny holes are seen eaten in the foliage 
         and repeat as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                          INSECT:  STINK BUG
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

endosulfan THIODAN     3% D              1.5 oz/50 row ft  Same as Thiodan.
                       2 EC              3 tbsp
                       50% WP            2 tbsp

REMARK:  Apply when stink bugs are seen.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
        
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  CARROTS         INSECT:  SIXSPOTTED LEAFHOPPER
-DOC-

CROP:  CARROTS         INSECT:  SIXSPOTTED LEAFHOPPER
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            2 tbsp                    0
                       80% WP            1 1/4 tbsp                0
                       5% D              0.5-1.0 lb/1,000 sq ft    0
 --------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion CYTHION      50% EC            2 TSP                     7
                       57% EC            1 1/2 tsp                 7
                       25% WP            6 tbsp                    7
REMARK:  This leafhopper transmits a disease called carrot yellows. For 
         control, apply treatment when first leafhoppers are seen and repeat 
         as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            1 tbsp                    10

NOTE:  Carrots should not be planted in chlordane-treated soil.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  CUCUMBERS, CANTALOUPES, WATERMELONS    INSECT: CUMCUMBER BEETLE
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

CROP:  CUCUMBERS, CANTALOUPES, WATERMELONS    INSECT: CUMCUMBER BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            2 tbsp                    0
                       80% WP            1 1/4 tbsp                0
                       5% D              0.45 lb/1,000 sq ft       0
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion CYTHION      50% EC            3 1/2 tsp                 1
                       57% EC            2 1/2 tsp                 1
                       25% WP            7 tbsp                    1
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
methoxychlor           50% WP            1 3/4 tbsp                1
                       25% EC            7 tsp                     1
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
CROP:  CUCUMBERS, CANTALOUPES, WATERMELONS    INSECT: CUMCUMBER BEETLE (cont)
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

endosulfan THIODAN     3% D              1.5 oz/50 row ft          1
                       2 EC              3 tbsp                    1
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    1
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     7
                       4% D              Thorough coverage         7

REMARKS:  Make first application as soon as the young plants start to break 
          through the soil surface and repeat at 5-day intervals.  If rain
          comes within the 5-day period, repeat the treatment promptly and
          then return to the regular 5-day-treatment interval.
          Malathion may cause injury to plants if applied before they start to 
          vine. Malathion and Sevin should not be combined for application to
          cucumbers due to phytotoxicity.
_______________________________________________________________________________

                     INSECT:  APHID
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

malathion CYTHION      50% EC            2 tsp                     1
                       57% EC            1 1/2 tsp                 1
                       25% WP            2 tbsp                    1
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            1 tbsp                    7

REMARK:  Aphids transmit a mosaic disease.  Apply treatment when aphids appear 
         and repeat as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

                      INSECT:  PICKLEWORM
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

endosulfan THIODAN     2 EC              2 tbsp                    0
                       50% WP            2 tbsp
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            2 tbsp                    0
                       80% WP            1 1/4 tbsp                0
                       5% D              0.45 lb/1,000 sq ft       0

REMARK:  Treat when first damage is noticed. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT: MITE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

Kelthane*              35% WP            1 tbsp                    2
                       18.5% EC          1 tsp                     2

NOTE: Dicofol (Kelthane) is currently under review by EPA. All references to 
      Kelthane in this publication are valid as of this printing, however, 
      they may be subject to change pending EPA's review findings.
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
ethion                 25% WP            2 tbsp                    0
                       4 EC              1 tsp                     0

REMARK:  Apply treatment when mites appear and repeat in 4-5 days.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  VINE BORER
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

endosulfan THIODAN     2 EC              3 tbsp                    0
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    0

REMARK:  Apply weekly to flower buds, stems and vines when first moths appear.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP: EGGPLANT         INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE
-DOC-

CROP: EGGPLANT         INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         5% D              0.45 lb/1,000 sq ft       0
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    0
                       80% WP            1 1/4 tbsp                0
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
endosulfan THIODAN     3% D              1 oz/50 row ft            1
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    1
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion CYTHION      50% EC            2 tsp                     3
                       57% EC            1 1/2 tsp                 3
                       25% WP            2 tbsp                    3
REMARK:  Apply treatment at first sign of tiny holes in the leaves and repeat
         as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

                      INSECT:  MITE
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
ethion                 25% WP            2 tbsp                    0
                       4 EC              1 tsp                     0

REMARK:  Apply treatment when mites appear and repeat in 4-5 days.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                       INSECT:  APHID
______________________________________________________________________________
malathion CYTHION      50% EC            2 tsp                     3
                       57% EC            1 1/2 tsp                 3
                       25% WP            2 tbsp                    3

REMARK:  Aphids transmit a mosaic disease.  Apply treatment when aphids appear 
         and repeat as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  WHITEFLY
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

endosulfan THIODAN     2 EC              1 1/2 tbsp                1
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    1

REMARK:  Apply as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

                       INSECT:  LEAF MINER
______________________________________________________________________________
ethion                 4 EC              2/4 tbsp                  1

REMARK:  Apply as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  GREENS          INSECT:  APHID
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

CROP:  GREENS          INSECT:  APHID
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

malathion CYTHION      57% EC            2 tsp                     7
                       25% WP            2 tbsp                    7

diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     10
REMARK:  Apply as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

                       INSECT:  VEGETABLE WEEVIL
______________________________________________________________________________
rotenone               4% WP             6 tbsp                    1
                       1% D
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                      INSECT:  CATERPILLAR
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon               2 EC              2 tsp                     10
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bacillus thuringiensis  Dipel,           Follow lebel directions.  0
                        Thuricide,
                        Sok-BT
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
carbaryl SEVIN         5% D              0.75 lb/1,000 sq ft       0

REMARK:  Will not control cabbage looper.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  LETTUCE         INSECT:  APHID
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

CROP:  LETTUCE         INSECT:  APHID
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

malathion CYTHION      57% EC            2 tsp              14 leaf-7 head
                       25% WP            2 tbsp             14 leaf-7 head
                       5% D                                 14 leaf-7 head
REMARK:  On foliage as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
endosulfan THIODAN     3% D              1.5 oz/50 row ft          14
                       50% WP            2 tbsp
REMARK:  Two (2) applications per season only.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     10
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                      INSECT:  CABBAGE LOOPER
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

Bacillus thuringiensis  Dipel,           Follow label directions.  0
                        Thuricide, 
                        Sok-BT

REMARK:  On foliage as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  CORN EARWORM
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            4 tbsp             14 leaf-3 head
                       80% WP            2 tbsp             14 leaf-3 head
                       4 lb conc         1 tbsp             14 leaf-3 head
                       5% D              0.75 lb/1,000      14 leaf-3 head 
                                              sq ft 
REMARK:  On foliage as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  LEAFHOPPER
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

malathion CYTHION      57% EC            2 tsp              14 leaf-7 head
                       25% WP            2 tbsp             14 leaf-7 head
                       5% D              0.5 lb/1,000       14 leaf-7 head
                                                sq ft
REMARK:  On foliage as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
methozychlor           50% WP            3 tbsp                    14
                       25% EC            3 tsp                     14
                       5% D              0.5 lb/1,000 sq ft        14
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     10
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  OKRA            INSECT:  CORN EARWORM
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

CROP:  OKRA            INSECT:  CORN EARWORM
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         80% WP            2 tbsp                    0
                       5% D              0.5 lb/1,000 sq ft        0
REMARK:  On foliage as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

                       INSECT:  STINK BUG
______________________________________________________________________________
carbaryl SEVIN         80% WP            2 tbsp                    0
                       5% D              0.5 lb/1,000 sq ft        0
REMARK:  On foliage as needed.  Only effective for controlling numphs 
         (immature stink bugs).
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  APHID
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

malathion CYTHION      57% EC            1 1/2 tsp
                       25% WP            2 tbsp
REMARK:  Do not apply while pods are on plants.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

                       INSECT:  THRIPS
______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     10
REMARK:  On foliage as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion CYTHION      57% EC            1 1/2 tsp                  3
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  ONIONS          INSECT:  THRIPS
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

CROP:  ONIONS          INSECT:  THRIPS
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     10

REMARKS:  On foliage as needed
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion              57% EC            1 1/2 tsp                  3
  CYTHION

REMARKS:  On foliage as needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  PEAS (FIELD OR SOUTHERN OR BLACKEYE)    INSECT:  APHID
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

CROP:  PEAS (FIELD OR SOUTHERN OR BLACKEYE)    INSECT:  APHID
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     1

REMARK:  On foliage as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
dimethoate             2.67 lb conc      1/2 tsp
  CYGON, DE-FEND
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion CYTHION      25% WP            2 tbsp                    3
                       57% EC            2 tsp                     3
                       5% D              0.5 lb/1,000 sq ft
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  COWPEA CURCULIO
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

endosulfan THIODAN     2 EC              3 tbsp                    3
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    3

REMARK:  Three applications.  Make first application when pods are one inch
         long.  Two or more 7 days apart.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  PEPPERS         INSECT:  APHID
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

CROP:  PEPPERS         INSECT:  APHID
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

malathion CYTHION      50% EC            2 tsp                     3
                       57% EC            1 1/2 tsp                 3
                       25% WP            2 tbsp                    3
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            1 tsp                     5
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
endosulfan THIODAN     2 EC              1 1/2 tbsp                1
                       50% WP            2 tbsp

REMARK:  Apply treatment when aphids first appear and repeat as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

        SPECIAL CONTROL INSTRUCTIONS FOR EUROPEAN CORN BORER ON PEPPERS

     The European corn borer is a very serious pest of peppers.  The more 
serious borer infestations are caused by the second generation of worms, which 
is present in July and August.  The adult moth lays eggs on the pepper leaves; 
the eggs hatch, and the borers burrow and feed inside the pepper unnoticed.  
Infested peppers have severe decay inside and are unfit to eat.

     To prevent borer damage, apply Sevin 50% wettable powder at 2 tbsp/gal 
water.  Apply thoroughly to the pepper plants, especially to the pepper caps, 
every 3 days after blossoms appear and fruit forms.  Damage is more likely to 
occur in late July and August.  Sevin may be used the day of picking.
_______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  POTATOES        INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE AND LEAFHOPPER
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

CROP:  POTATOES        INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE AND LEAFHOPPER
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         5% D              0.45 lb/1,000 sq ft       0
                       50% WP            2 tbsp
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            1 tbsp       35

REMARK:  Apply treatment for flea beetles as soon as plants appear above 
         ground and repeat as needed.

         For leafhoppers, treat when leafhoppers are seen.  Repeat as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  POTATO BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         5% D              0.45 lb/1,000 sq ft       0
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    0
REMARK:  Early season pests.  Apply when adult or immature beetles are 
         present.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  APHID
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     35
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
dimethoate             2.67 lb conc      1 1/2 tsp                 0
  CYGON, DE-FEND
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion CYTHION      50% EC            2 tsp                     0
                       57% EC            1 1/2 tsp                 0
                       25% WP            3 tbsp                    0

REMARK:  Apply treatment to foliage when aphids appear.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                   SPECIAL CONTROL INSTRUCTIONS FOR POTATOES

     The systemic insecticide Di-Syston will give season-long control of major 
potato pests if applied properly at planting time.  Many garden centers sell 
2% Di-Syston granules.  If this material is purchased, use exactly as 
suggested below.
_______________________________________________________________________________

          INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE, LEAFHOPPER AND COLORADO POTATO BEETLE
_______________________________________________________________________________
     HOW MUCH TO USE                              REMARK

  9 oz per 50 ft or row        Place granules in seed furrow at planting time.
                               Do not apply within 75 days of harvest.  
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE:                          CAUTION:
Di-Syston is sold in 1 lb      When using granules, avoid breathing granules
shaker cans, which is enough   of dust and avoid contact with skin.  Keep out
to treat 85 feet of row.  Do   of reach of children.  Do not reuse container.
not use more then 9 oz per
50 ft of row.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  PUMPKINS AND SQUASH      INSECT:  CUCUMBER BEETLE
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

CROP:  PUMPKINS AND SQUASH      INSECT:  CUCUMBER BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________
carbaryl SEVIN         5% D              0.45 lb/1,000 sq ft       0
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    0
                       80% WP            1 1/4 tbsp                0
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
endosulfan THIODAN     50% WP            2 tbsp                    0
                       2 EC              3 tbsp                    0
                       3% D              1.5 oz/50 row ft          0
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     3
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                      INSECT:  CUCUMBER BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________

malathion CYTHION      50% EC            3 1/2 tsp                 1
                       57% EC            2 1/2 tsp                 1
                       25% WP            7 tbsp                    1

REMARK:  Make first application as soon as the young plants start to break 
         through the soil surface and repeat at 5-day intervals.  If rain 
         comes within the 5-day period, repeat the treatment promptly and
         then return to the regular 5-day treatment interval.

         Malathion may cause injury to plants if applied before they start
         to vine.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                       INSECT:  LEAF MINER
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________

Ethion                 25% WP            2 tbsp                    1
REMARK:  Squash only.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

                       INSECT:  SQUASH BUG
______________________________________________________________________________
endosulfan THIODAN     2 EC              2 tbsp                    0
                       3 % D             1.5 oz/50 row ft          0
                       50% WP            3 tbsp                    0
REMARK:  Adults and brown egg-masses can be hand picked from plants.  Adults
         may be trapped under shingles placed beneath the plants. If you don't
         hand pick, or trap, apply insecticide as soon as eggs hatch and 
         repeat as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
  
                     INSECT:  APHID
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     3
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion CYTHION      50% EC            3 1/2 tsp         3 pumpkin-1 squash
                       57% EC            2 1/2 tsp         3 pumpkin-1 squash
                       25% WP            4 tbsp            3 pumpkin-1 squash
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
endosulfan THIODAN     3% D              1.5 oz/50 row ft          0
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    0
REMARK:  Apply treatment when aphids first appear and repeat as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                      INSECT:  VINE BORER AND PICKLEWORM
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________

malathion CYTHION      50% EC            3 1/2 tsp         3 pumpkin-1 squash
                       57% EC            2 1/2 tsp         3 pumpkin-1 squash
                       25% WP            7 tbsp            3 pumpkin-1 squash
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
methoxychlor           50% WP            1 3/4 tbsp                1
                       25% EC            7 tsp                     1
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
endosulfan THIODAN     2 EC              2 tbsp                    1
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    1
REMARK:  Apply treatment 5 times at 7-day intervals beginning the last week in
         June.  Direct insecticides at base of plants for vine borer control.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  RADISHES        INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

CROP:  RADISHES        INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________
carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            2 tbsp                    3
                       80% WP            1 1/4 tbsp                3
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            1 tbsp                    10

REMARK:  Apply treatment when small, circular holes are seen in the leaves
         and repeat as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  APHID
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

malathion              50% EC            2 tsp                     7
                       57% EC            1 1/2 tsp                 7
                       25% WP            2 tbsp                    7
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     10

REMARK:  Apply treatment when aphids first appear and repeat as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  SWEET CORN      INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

CROP:  SWEET CORN      INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            3 tbsp                    0
                       80% WP            2 tbsp                    0
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            1 tbsp                    1
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                      INSECT:  CORN EARWORM
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         5% D              0.75-1.0 lb/1,000 sq ft   0
                       50% WP            4 tbsp                    0
                       80% WP            2 1/2 tbsp                0
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            1 tbsp                    1
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
endosulfan THIODAN     2 EC              4 tbsp                    1
                       3% D              2 1/2 oz/50 row ft        1

REMARK:  Make treatment into whorl as needed.  Make treatment when first silks 
         are seen and repeat every 3 days until all silks have turned brown 
         and dried up.  Under ideal growing conditions of the silks, the 
         treatment interval should be shortened to every 2 days.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CROP:  TOMATOES         INSECT:  CUTWORM
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

CROP:  TOMATOES         INSECT:  CUTWORM
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            4 tbsp                    0
                       80% WP            2 1/2  tbsp               0
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            6 oz/100 sq ft            1
                                         Preplant
REMARK:  Mix Sevin in enough water to get sufficient coverage of plants and 
         soil around plants.  Apply treatment when plants are first set and 
         repeat two more times at weekly intervals.  
         Preplant treatment: Spectracide-6 fl oz in enough water for coverage/
         1,000 sq ft and work into soil.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                      INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE AND BLISTER BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________
carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            4 tbsp                    0
                       80% WP            2 1/2 tbsp                0
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
methoxychlor           50% WP            1 3/4 tbsp                1
                       25% EC            7 tsp                     1
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
REMARK:  For flea beetles, more important protection should come the first two 
         weeks after plants are set.  Apply insecticides after plants are set
         and repeat as needed.  For blister beetles, treatment is needed later
         in the season when they are first seen on the plants.  Repeat as 
         needed.  Spectracide for flea beetles only.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
              INSECT:  FLEA BEETLE AND BLISTER BEETLE (Cont)
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________

endosulfan THIODAN     50% WP            2 tbsp                    1
                       2 EC              1 1/2 tbsp                1
                       3% D              1.5 oz/50 row ft          1
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     1

REMARK:  For flea beetles, more important protection should come the first two 
         weeks after plants are set.  Apply insecticides after plants are set
         and repeat as needed.  For blister beetles, treatment is needed later
         in the season when they are first seen on the plants.  Repeat as 
         needed.  Spectracide for flea beetles only.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                      INSECT:  APHID
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________

malathion CYTHION      50% EC            2 tsp                     1
                       57% EC            1 1/2 tsp                 1
                       25% WP            2 tbsp                    1
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
diazinon               25% EC            2 tsp                     1
                       50% WP            1 tbsp                    1
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
endosulfan THIODAN     2 EC              1 1/2 tbsp                1
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    1

REMARK:  Apply treatment when aphids are seen and repeat as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  LEAF MINER
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________

Ethion                 25% WP            2 tbsp                    2
dimethoate CYGON       2.67 lb conc      1 1/2 tsp                 7

REMARK:  Apply when insects first appear.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                      INSECT:  HORNWORM AND FRUITWORM
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl SEVIN         50% WP            3 tbsp                    0
                       80% WP            2 tbsp                    0
                       5% D              0.45 lb/1,000 sq ft       0
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Bacillus               Dipel,            Follow label directions   0
  thuringiensis        Thuricide,
                       Sok-BT
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
endosulfan THIODAN     50% WP            2 tbsp                    1
                       2 EC              3 tbsp                    1
                       3% D              1.5 oz/50 row ft          1

REMARK:  Hand-pick worms when noticed, or apply insecticide as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  WHITEFLY
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________

endosulfan THIODAN     2 EC              3 TBSP                    1
                       3% D              0.75 LB/1,000 sq ft       1
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    1

REMARK:  Best suggestion is to inspect underside of leaves at place of 
         purchase.  Do not buy if tiny, oblong, white, motionles structures
         are observed.  These are young whiteflies.  For treatment: when
         tiny whiteflies can be jarred from the foliage, begin treatment and
         repeat at 15-day intervals for 3 applications and repeat procedure
         as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  MITE
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________

dicofol                18.5% EC          1 tsp                     2
Kelthane*
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ethion                 25% WP            2 tbsp                    2
                       4 EC              1 tsp                     2

REMARK: Apply as needed.  Make a repeat application in 4-5 days.
*Dicofol (Kelthane) is currently under review by EPA.  All references to 
Kelthane in this publication are valid as of this printing, however, they may 
be subject to change pending EPA's review findings.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT:  STINK BUG
______________________________________________________________________________
                                         AMOUNT:              DAYS WAITING
RECOMMENDED            FORMULATION       SPRAY/GAL WATER      TIME FROM LAST
PESTICIDE                YOU BUY         DUST/1,000 SQ FT     APPL TO HARVEST
_____________________________________________________________________________

endosulfan THIODAN     2 EC              3 tbsp                    1
                       50% WP            2 tbsp                    1

REMARK:  Apply as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL CONTROL INSTRUCTIONS FOR SLUGS AND SNAILS IN THE GARDEN        
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________

        SPECIAL CONTROL INSTRUCTIONS FOR SLUGS AND SNAILS IN THE GARDEN
______________________________________________________________________________

                Slugs and snails can be controled in the home garden
          by using a Metaldehyde 3% bait.  Consult the label for 
          specific crops it can be used on and also information on the
          rate.  Mesurol should NOT be used in the home garden.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL CONTROL INSTRUCTIONS FOR GRASSHOPPERS AND CRICKETS IN THE HOME GARDEN
-DOC-

SPECIAL CONTROL INSTRUCTIONS FOR GRASSHOPPERS AND CRICKETS IN THE HOME GARDEN
______________________________________________________________________________

                Grasshoppers and crickets can be controlled in the home
          garden by using a 5% Sevin bait.  Currently, Hopkins Chemical
          Company has a product labeled as Sevin Insect Bait that can be
          used on almost all garden crops.  Refer to label for specific 
          crops and rates.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                These recommendations are all inclusive, involving many
          insecticide labels.  To be lawful, your intended use must be
          included on the product's label.  Be sure to read the label
          before purchase.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
D - Dust; apply dry; do not mix with water.
WP - Wettable powder; mix with water; apply as spray.
EC - Emulsifiable concentrate; dilute with water, apply as spray.
*Dicofol (Kelthane) is currently under review by EPA.  All references to 
Kelthane in this publication are valid as of this printing, however, they may 
be subject to change pending EPA's review findings.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE WEED CONTROL                              
-DOC-
                              APPLE WEED CONTROL
                    J. D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE    RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED        TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________  
  simazine              2-4 lb*            Apply in the spring before weeds 
    PRINCEP                                emerge or apply immediately after 
                                           cultivation.  Fall application 
                                           controls a broader weed spectrum 
                                           than spring application.  If 
                                           applied in fall, follow with a 
                                           different preemergence in the 
                                           spring.
REMARKS:  Do not apply to trees less than 1 yr old.  Use lower rate on light 
soils and higher rate on heavy soils.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------           
  napropamide           4 lb               Apply in fall or early spring 
    DEVRINOL                               before weed emergence.
REMARKS:  Incorporate or irrigate within 24 hr if no rainfall occurs.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Do not exceed 4 lb ai/ac/yr.  When two applications are made, rate should not 
 exceed 2 lb ai/ac/application.
APPLE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE    RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED        TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________  
  napropamide           4 lb               Apply when grass and weeds are 
    DEVRINOL                               tender and 1-6 in high for best 
      +                   +                results.
R  paraquat           1/2-1 lb
    GRAMOXONE SUPER
REMARKS:  Incorporate or irrigate within 24 hr if no rainfall occurs.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  napropamide           4 lb               Apply in fall through spring before
    DEVRINOL                               weed emergence.  Do not apply to 
      +                   +                frozen ground.
  diuron                1 lb    
    KARMEX          
REMARKS:  Incorporate or irrigate within 24 hr if no rainfall occurs.  Use 
only under trees established in the orchard 1 yr.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.                           
APPLE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE    RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED        TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________  
  diuron              2-3.2 lb             March through May
    KARMEX             
REMARKS:  Use only under trees established in orchard 1 yr.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R  paraquat           1/2-1 lb             Apply when grass and weeds are 
    GRAMOXONE SUPER                        tender and 1 to 6 in high for best 
                                           results.
REMARKS:  Contact kill of all green foliage.  Do not let cattle graze on 
treated area.  Apply with a nonionic surfactant.  Repeat applications as 
necessary to control weeds.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  2,4-D amine                              Anytime during the growing season 
                                           to actively growing broadleaf 
                                           weeds.
REMARKS:  Do not use during apple bloom.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.                           
APPLE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE    RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED        TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________  
  glyphosate          1-5 lb               Follow label for time of
    ROUNDUP                                application.
    (4 lb/gal)
REMARKS:  Do not spray green bark or foliage.  Apply in 20-60 gal water/ac as 
a directed spray under trees.  No residual control.  Allow a minimum of 14 
days between last application and harvest.  Several tank mixes have been 
approved for tree crops for residual control.  When tank mixing with residual 
herbicide, add an agriculturally approved nonionic surfactant.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  dalapon             5-7 lb               Apply where grass is 4-6 in high.  
    DOWPON or                              Make a second application 2 wk 
    BASFAPON                               later.
REMARKS:  Use 1 lb in 15 gal water.  Spray to wet foliage.  Add wetting agent.  
Apply around trees over 4 yr old.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
APPLE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE    RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED        TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________  
  terbacil          1.6-3.2 lb             Make a single application before 
    SINBAR                                 weeds emerge or during early 
                                           seedling stage.
REMARKS:  Apply lower rates for light soils and higher rates for clay loam 
soils.  Do not use on loamy sand or gravelly soils and do not apply to eroded 
areas where tree roots are exposed.  Do not allow drift to come in contact 
with fruit and do not spray foliage.  Use only where apples have been 
established in orchards for 3 yr.  Treated land should not be replanted to any 
other crop for 2 yr following last application.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  dichlobenil         4-6 lb               Early spring or after cultivation.  
    CASORON 4G                             Can be applied later if lightly 
                                           mixed into soil.
REMARKS:  Apply as directed spray to orchard floor.  Do not graze livestock in 
treated areas.  Do not spray fruit or foliage of bearing trees.  4-G formula-
tion is far superior to the wettable powder in normal surface applications.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------  
APPLE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE    RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED        TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________  
  diuron            0.8-1.6 lb             Apply to weeds up to 3 in tall.
    KARMEX
      +               +
  terbacil          0.8-1.6 lb
    SINBAR
REMARKS:  Use only under trees established in orchard for at least 2 yr.  This
combination provides a longer period of weed control and controls a wider  
spectrum than either component herbicide used alone.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  simazine            2-4 lb*              Postemergence to existing weeds.
    PRINCEP
      +               +
R paraquat          0.5-1 lb
    GRAMOXONE SUPER
REMARKS:  Do not apply to trees established less than 1 yr.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
APPLE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE    RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED        TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________  
  oryzalin            2-4 lb               Apply before annual weeds emerge in 
    SURFLAN                                spring.
REMARKS:  Use around nonbearing and bearing trees.  Use lower rate for short 
term control and higher rate for long term control.  Do not apply to newly 
transplanted trees until soil has settled and no cracks are present. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  oryzalin            2-4 lb               Apply in spring before annual weeds
    SURFLAN                                emerge.
       +                +
  simazine            2-4 lb
    PRINCEP 
REMARKS:  Use in orchards established for 1 yr or more.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  norflurazon         2-4 lb               Apply before weeds emerge.
    SOLICAM
REMARKS:  The soil surface must be free of weeds and relatively free of plant 
residues.  May be used on newly planted trees provided soil around the trees 
is firm and there are no depressions in which rain or irrigation water could 
accumulate.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
APPLE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE    RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED        TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________  
  norflurazon         2-3 lb               Apply before weeds emerge.
    SOLICAM
        +               +
  simazine            1-2 lb
    PRINCEP
REMARKS:  Apply as a tank mix in 20-100 gal water/ac.  Avoid contact with 
fruit, foliage, or stems.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  norflurazon         1.4-3 lb              Apply before weeds emerge.
    SOLICAM
        +                +
  diuron              0.8-1.6 lb
    KARMEX        
REMARKS:  Apply as a tank mix in 20-100 gal water/ac.  Avoid contact with 
fruit, foliage, or stems.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
APPLE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE    RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED        TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________  
  norflurazon          2-4 lb              Apply when adequate rainfall or 
    SOLICAM                                irrigation is available for proper
       +                 +                 placement in the soil.
  oryzalin             2-4 lb
    SURFLAN
       +                 +
R paraquat           0.5-1 lb
    GRAMOXONE SUPER
REMARKS:  Add an agriculturally approved nonionic surfactant.  Do not spray 
under windy conditions and use a shield for young trees.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
APPLE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE    RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED        TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________  
  fluazilfop-butyl       0.5 lb            Apply to actively growing grasses.                         
    FUSILADE 4E                            Application to perennial 
                                           johnsongrass should be made before 
                                           it exceeds 12-18 in tall and before 
                                           boot stage.  Application to 
                                           perennial bermudagrass should be 
                                           made before it exceeds 3 in tall or 
                                           with 4-8 in runners.  Apply to 
                                           annual grasses before they reach 2-
                                           8 in tall and before tillering 
                                           and/or heading.
REMARKS:  Thorough spray coverage is required.  Use only on nonbearing plants,
as for site preparation before transplanting.  Apply as a directed spray to 
prevent contact with plant foliage.  Do not tank mix with other herbicides.  
Add 1 qt of crop oil concentrate or 1/2 pt of a nonionic surfactant/25 gal 
water.  Use 25 gal of dilute spray/ac treated with 30-60 psi pressure. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
APPLE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE    RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED        TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________  
  sethoxydim           0.19-0.48 lb        Apply to actively growing grasses.  
    POAST 1.53E                            Apply to grasses at sizes labeled.
REMARKS:  Always add 2 pt/ac of oil concentrate.  Follow water volume and 
spray pressure recommendations on label.  Do not apply to nonbearing apples 
within 1 yr of harvest.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  pronamide            1-4                 Apply during cool wet season for
    KERB 50-W                              best results.
REMARKS:  Excellent for control of seedling and established cool-season 
grasses.  Rainfall or overhead irrigation is essential following the 
application for effective weed control.
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS                            
-DOC-
                            APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS
                    J. D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
_______________________________________________________________________________
CHEMICAL                      RATE                   TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
  ALAR + ethephon       1 1/2 lb Alar 85 plus        Apply as a dilute spray 
                        1 pt ethephon/100            4-5 wk after petal fall 
                        gal of water (Do not         date of mature trees
                        exceed 4 lb/A of ALAR 85)
REMARKS:  To reduce vegetative growth and promote flower bud initiation to 
encourage bearing of young unbearing trees.  Can be used on young trees of any 
variety but should not be used on low-vigor trees.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  ALAR + ethephon       1/2 lb Alar 85 plus          Apply as a dilute foliar 
                        1 1/2 pt ethephon/100        spray 4-5 wk after petal
                        gal--moderate vigor.         fall date of mature 
                        2 lb Alar 85 plus            trees.
                        2 pt ethephon/100 gal--
                        high vigor  (Do not exceed 
                        4 lb of ALAR 85 per acre)
REMARKS:  To inhibit vegetative growth of trees which have lost the season's 
crop.  Cannot sell fruit when more than 4 lb Alar 85 has been used per acre.
APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS
_______________________________________________________________________________
CHEMICAL                      RATE                   TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
  ALAR                  3 lb Alar 85/ac              60-70 days before 
                                                     harvest.
REMARKS:  To aid in control of preharvest drop and increase fruit firmness, 
delay fruit maturity, promote increased red color, reduce scald, delay water 
core development, and aid in reducing fruit cracking of susceptible varieties.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  ALAR                  3-4 lb Alar 85/ac            1-2 wk after petal fall 
                                                     (nonbearing).
REMARKS:  To initiate flowering in nonbearing trees.  
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  ethephon              Red Delicious strains use    See label.
                        1 pt of ethephon/100 gal 
                        (330 ppm) plus stop drop 
                        plus 1/2 pt surfactant/
                        100 gal.
REMARKS:  To improve fruit color.  Previous treatment with Alar may increase 
color response but may result in smaller fruit.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS
_______________________________________________________________________________
CHEMICAL                      RATE                   TIME OF APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
  ethephon              Spur-type trees, mix         Nonbearing trees, apply
                        1 2/3 pt; nonspur-type       1-2 wk after peak bloom.
                        trees, mix 3 1/3 pt in       Young trees beginning to
                        100 gal water and spray      flower, apply 4-5 wk 
                        to runoff.                   after full bloom.
REMARKS:  To increase flower bud development on young trees.  Trees should be 
large enough to support a set of apples before they are treated to initiate 
flower buds.           
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  glyphosate            .1875 lb                     1-2 wk after full greenup 
    ROUNDUP             (6 fluid oz)                 of bahiagrass or after 
    (4 lb/gal)                                       the bahiagrass has been 
                                                     mowed to a height of 3-4 
                                                     in. 
REMARKS:  Repeat treatments may be necessary to control weeds regenerating 
from underground parts or seed.  Unless otherwise specified, the combined 
total of all treatments must not exceed 8 qt/A of this product/yr.
______________________________________________________________________________
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS - CHEMICAL THINNERS                  
-DOC-
                  APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS - CHEMICAL THINNERS
                    J. D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
_____________________________________________________________________________
CHEMICAL                     RATE                    TIME OF APPLICATION
_____________________________________________________________________________
  NAA + TWEEN 20        5 ppm-Red Delicious          14-21 days after full 
                        8 ppm-Golden                 bloom or fruit diameter 
                        Delicious and                of 10-16 mm.
                        other hard-to-thin
                        varieties
REMARKS:  Use Tween 20, 1 pt/100 gal.  If frost injury occurs, apply 1/2 rate.  
Weak and young trees are more responsive.  Spurs, lower branches, and inner 
limbs which are shaded tend to overthin.  Thorough spray coverage is 
necessary for uniform thinning.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  NAD                   40-50 ppm                    4-8 days after full bloom
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  SEVIN                 1-2 lb 50 W/100 gal          14-20 days after full 
                                                     bloom.
REMARKS:  Russeting may be increased on Golden Delicious where Sevin is used 
as a thinner.  Apply during periods of rapid drying.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS - CHEMICAL THINNERS
_____________________________________________________________________________
CHEMICAL                     RATE                    TIME OF APPLICATION
_____________________________________________________________________________
  SEVIN                 1-2 lb/100 gal water         14-20 days after full
    +                            +                   bloom or when the average
  Oil, superior type    1 gal/100 gal water          fruitlet diameter is 9
                                                     1/2-11 mm.
REMARKS:  All thinners should be used on a trial basis until the individual 
grower gains experience.  Sevin may russet Golden Delicious.
______________________________________________________________________________
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS - SUCKER CONTROL                   
-DOC-
                   APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS - SUCKER CONTROL
                    J. D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
_____________________________________________________________________________
CHEMICAL                    RATE                     TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  NAA, ethyl ester      10 oz/1 gal                  For control of suckers,
  tree-hold sprout      or 10,000 ppm                apply after dormant      
  inhibitor A-112                                    removal of suckers and if
                                                     needed again, when new
                                                     sucker growth is 4-12
                                                     inches long.
REMARKS:  Do not apply during the period from bloom to 4 wk postbloom.  
Thorough application giving complete wetting is necessary for good results.  
For best results cut off woody sucker growth at ground level during dormant 
season and apply before growth starts.
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS - WATER SPROUT CONTROL                
-DOC-
                APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS - WATER SPROUT CONTROL
                    J. D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
_____________________________________________________________________________
CHEMICAL                   RATE                      TIME OF APPLICATION
_____________________________________________________________________________
  NAA, ethyl ester      10 oz/1 gal or               Apply anytime after
  tree-hold sprout      10,000 ppm                   pruning and before growth
  inhibitor A-112                                    starts in the spring.
REMARKS:  To control water sprout regrowth around pruning cuts, apply with a 
cloth or brush as a localized application to the pruning cut and surrounding 
bark.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  NAA, ethyl ester      10 oz/1 gal or               Apply during dormant
  tree-hold sprout      10,000 ppm                   season.
  inhibitor A-112
REMARKS:  To control water sprout growth on large scaffold limbs where old 
trees are opened up or reduced in height, apply the NAA with a cloth or brush 
as a localized application to the top of entire limbs.
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS - BURRKNOT CONTROL                  
-DOC-
                  APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS - BURRKNOT CONTROL
                    J. D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
______________________________________________________________________________
CHEMICAL                    RATE                     TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  GALLEX                Full strength to the         Late winter before bud
                        burrknot and 1/2 in          break.
                        of surrounding bark.
REMARKS:  To prevent burrknots, plant trees so that the graft union is only 
1/2-1 in above ground level.  For a few burrknots on young trees or on old 
trees, treatment with Gallex has proven effective in stopping further 
development of the burrknot.
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS - STOP-DROP SPRAYS                  
-DOC-
                  APPLE GROWTH REGULATORS - STOP-DROP SPRAYS
                    J. D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
______________________________________________________________________________
CHEMICAL                   RATE                      TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  NAA                   10 ppm                       5-7 days before harvest 
                                                     or 4-6 days before 
                                                     anticipated fruit drop.
 
REMARKS:  To reduce preharvest fruit drop.  Allow a minimum of 48 
hrs between application and harvest.  A maximum of 2 preharvest stop drop 
applications is allowed.                              
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  ALAR                 3 lb Alar 85/ac               60-70 days before 
                                                     harvest.
REMARKS:  To aid in the control of preharvest drop.
______________________________________________________________________________
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE NUTRITIONAL SPRAYS                           
-DOC-
                           APPLE NUTRITIONAL SPRAYS
                    J. D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
CHEMICAL                    RATE          TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________               
  sodium octaborate      1 lb/100 gal      Apply at petal fall and first 
     SOLUBOR                               cover.
REMARKS:  Boron is essential to maintain balanced nutrition for healthy trees 
and quality fruit, assist in the movement of calcium in the tree and reduces 
cork spot.  Optimum foliar analysis should be 35-75 ppm elemental boron.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  calcium nitrate        3 lb/100 gal      Apply at petal fall and first cover
                                           and in three cover sprays before 
                                           harvest.
REMARKS:  Aids in suppressing bitterpit with late bloom spray.  Early sprays 
reduce cork spot.                                                            
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  calcium chloride       2 lb/100 gal      Apply at petal fall and first cover 
                                           and in the three sprays before 
                                           harvest. 
REMARKS:  Should not be used above 85 degrees F.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
APPLE NUTRITIONAL SPRAYS
______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
CHEMICAL                    RATE          TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________               
  ZINEB                  2 lb/100 gal      Apply at first and/or second cover.
______________________________________________________________________________ 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE INSECT CONTROL                        
-DOC-
                       APPLE INSECT CONTROL 
             Clyde S. Gorsuch, Extension Entomologist

PEST                                                    PAGE NUMBER

APHID---------------------------------------------------317504.00001
APPLE MAGGOT--------------------------------------------317504.00006
CATFACING INSECTS (Stink Bugs, Tarnished Plant Bugs)----317504.00009
CODLING MOTH--------------------------------------------317504.00012
JAPANESE BEETLE-----------------------------------------317504.00016
LEAFHOPPERS---------------------------------------------317504.00017
LEAFROLLERS---------------------------------------------317504.00020
MITES---------------------------------------------------317504.00026
PERIODICAL CICADA---------------------------------------317504.00028
PLUM CURCULIO-------------------------------------------317504.00029
SCALE---------------------------------------------------317504.00034
TENTIFORM LEAFMINER-------------------------------------317504.00036

To access a specific insect pest, type F1 7, the page number and <enter>.

See Clemson Extension Information Cards 110 and 119 for spray schedule and 
additional information.
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

Aphid          

NOTE:  Apply the first insecticide treatment for Rosy Apple Aphid at half inch 
green tip.  Controls for Green Apple Aphid should be applied as needed when 
aphids are present.

               superior oil         8 gal              --                 --   

REMARKS: Dormant application only.  Chlorpyrifos (Lorsban) 4E may be added to
          the oil at 2 - 4 pt/ac.

               malathion 57%EC      6 pt               3.8                 3
                         25WP      10 lb
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  
Aphid (cont.)   diazinon 50WP        4 lb               2.0                14

REMARKS: May cause russeting on Golden Delicious.

               phosmet                                 2-3                7
                 IMIDAN 50WP        4-6 lb

               endosulfan                              2                  21
                 THIODAN 50WP       4 lb
REMARKS: Limit of three applications during the fruiting period.

             R phosphamidon                            1                  30
                 DIMECRON 8EC       1 pt

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
  
Aphid         R methomyl                                0.9-1.8             8
(cont.)          LANNATE 90SP       1-2 lb
                 NUDRIN 90W         1-2 lb
                 LANNATE 1.8EC      2-4 pt
                 NUDRIN 1.8L        2-4 pt
REMARKS: Do not use on Early MacIntosh and Wealthy varieties.

               dimethoate                              1-2                28
                 CYGON 25WP         4-8 lb
                 CYGON 4EC          2-4 pt
REMARKS: Do not apply during bloom.

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________

Aphid        R fenvalerate                             0.1-0.3            21
(cont.)          PYDRIN 2.4EC       5.3-16 fl oz

REMARKS: Do not exceed 2.1 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

             R esfenvalerate                           0.025-0.075        21
                 ASANA 1.9EC        1.7-2 fl oz
REMARKS: Do not exceed 0.525 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Aphid        R permethrin                              0.1-0.3      See remarks
(cont.)          AMBUSH 2 EC        6.4-12.8 fl oz       
                 AMBUSH 25 WP       6.4-12.8 oz
                 POUNCE 3.2 EC      4-8 fl oz
                 POUNCE 25 WP       6.4-12.8 oz                  
REMARKS: Do not apply Ambush or Pounce after petal fall.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, 
         Ambush or Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems
         later in the season.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Apple        R azinphosmethyl                          0.9-1.2      See remarks
Maggot           GUTHION 35WP       2.5-3.5 lb

REMARKS:  Apply when flies are active during late June and July.  Not more than
8 applications of Guthion per season nor within 15 days of harvest.  If final 
two applications are at the low rate the last application may be 7 days before
harvest.

               phosmet                                 2-3                 7
                 IMIDAN 50WP        4-6 lb

               diazinon 50WP        4 lb               2.0                14

             R PENNCAP-M 2MEL       4-8 pt             1-2                14
REMARKS:  Do not use before total petal fall or with streptomycin.

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Apple        R fenvalerate
Maggot           PYDRIN 2.4EC       5.3-16 fl oz       0.1-0.3            21
(cont.)

REMARKS: Do not exceed 2.1 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

             R esfenvalerate                           0.025-0.075        21
                 ASANA 1.9EC        1.7-2 fl oz
REMARKS: Do not exceed 0.525 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Apple          chlorpyrifos                            1.5                28
Maggot           LORSBAN 50WP       3 lb
(cont.)

REMARKS:  Do not apply last two treatments closer than 21 days apart or more 
          than 8 applications/season.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Catfacing    R azinphosmethyl                          0.9-1.2      See remarks
insects          GUTHION 35WP       2.5-3.5 lb
(stink bugs,  REMARKS:  Not more than 8 applications/season nor within 15 days
tarnished     of harvest.  If final 2 applications are at the low rate the last
plant bugs)   application may be 7 days before harvest.

               carbaryl                                4                   1
                 SEVIN 50WP         8 lb
                 SEVIN 80S          5 lb

REMARKS:  Sevin may cause thinning if used within 30 days of petal fall.

               phosmet                                 3                   7
                 IMIDAN 50WP        6 lb

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Catfacing    R fenvalerate
insects          PYDRIN 2.4EC       5.3-16 fl oz       0.1-0.3            21
(cont.)
REMARKS: Do not exceed 2.1 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

             R esfenvalerate                           0.025-0.075        21
                 ASANA 1.9EC        1.7-2 fl oz
REMARKS: Do not exceed 0.525 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

             R PENNCAP-M 2 MEL      4-8 pt             1-2                14
REMARKS:  Do not use before total petal fall or with streptomycin.

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Catfacing    R permethrin                              0.1-0.3       See remark
insects          AMBUSH 2EC         6.4-12.8 fl oz
(cont.)          AMBUSH 25WP        6.4-12.8 oz
                 POUNCE 3.2EC       4-8 fl oz
                 POUNCE 25WP        6.4-12.8 oz

               chlorpyrifos                            1.5                28
                 LORSBAN 50WP       3 lb
REMARKS:  Do not apply last two treatments closer than 21 days apart or apply
          more than 8 applications/season.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Codling      R azinphosmethyl                              0.9-1.2  See remarks
Moth             GUTHION 35WP    2.5-3.5 lb     

REMARKS:  Not more than eight applications/season nor within 15 days of harvest.
If final two applications are at the low rate the last application may be 7 days
before harvest.

               carbaryl                                4                   1
                 SEVIN 50WP         8 lb
                 SEVIN 80S          5 lb
REMARKS:  Sevin may cause thinning if used within 30 days of petal fall.

               diazinon 50WP        4 lb               2                  14

               methoxychlor 2EC     8-12 pt            4-6                 7

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Codling      R methomyl                                0.9-1.8             8
Moth             LANNATE 90SP       1-2 lb
(cont.)          NUDRIN 90W         1-2 lb
                 LANNATE 1.8EC      2-4 pt
                 NUDRIN 1.8L        2-4 pt

             R parathion 15WP       7 lb               1                  14
REMARKS:  See label for apply variety caution statements.

             R PENNCAP-M 2MEL       4-8 pt             1-2                14
REMARKS:  Do not use before total petal fall or with streptomycin.

               phosmet                                 2-3                 7
                 IMIDAN 50WP        4-6 lb

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Codling       R fenvalerate
Moth             PYDRIN 2.4EC       5.3-16 fl oz       0.1-0.3            21
(cont.)

REMARKS: Do not exceed 2.1 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

             R esfenvalerate                           0.025-0.075        21
                 ASANA 1.9EC        1.7-2 fl oz
REMARKS: Do not exceed 0.525 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Codling        chlorpyrifos                            1.5                28
Moth             LORSBAN 50WP       3 lb
(cont.)

REMARKS:  Do not apply last two treatments closer than 21 days apart or apply
          more than 8 applications/season.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Japanese       malathion 57%EC      3 pt               2                   3
Beetle                   25WP       8 lb

REMARKS:  As needed when beetles appear.

               methoxychlor 2EC     8-12 pt            4-6                 7

               carbaryl                                4                   1
                 SEVIN 50WP         8 lb
                 SEVIN 80S          5 lb
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Leafhopper   R azinphosmethyl                          0.9-1.2      See remarks
                 GUTHION 35WP       2.5-3.5 lb

REMARKS:  One or two applications when leafhoppers appear.  Not more than 8
applications of Guthion/season nor within 15 days of harvest.  If final two
applications are at the low rate the final application may be 7 days before 
harvest.
               malathion 57%EC      3 pt               2                   3
                         25WP       8 lb
REMARKS:  See label for apply variety caution statements.

             R fenvalerate
                 PYDRIN 2.4EC       5.3-16 fl oz       0.1-0.3            21
REMARKS: Do not exceed 2.1 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 
R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Leafhopper   R esfenvalerate                           0.025-0.075        21
(cont.)          ASANA 1.9EC        1.7-2 fl oz

REMARKS: Do not exceed 0.525 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Leafhopper   R permethrin                              0.1-0.3      See remark
(cont.)          AMBUSH 2EC         6.4-12.8 fl oz     
                 AMBUSH 25WP        6.4-12.8 oz
                 POUNCE 3.2EC       4-8 fl oz
                 POUNCE 25WP        6.4-12.8 oz
                 CARZOL 92SP        0.5 lb             0.5-0.9             7

REMARKS: Do not apply Ambush or Pounce after petal fall.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, 
         Ambush or Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems
         later in the season.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Leafroller   R azinphosmethyl 	                          0.9-1.2  See remarks
                 GUTHION 35WP      2.5-3.5 lb

REMARKS:  Not more than eight applications/season nor within 15 days of harvest.
If final two applications are at the low rate final application may be 7 days
before harvest.

               carbaryl                                4                   1
                 SEVIN 50WP         8 lb
                 SEVIN 80S          5 lb
REMARKS:  Sevin may cause thinning if used within 30 days of harvest.

 R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Leafroller   R methomyl                                                    8
(cont.)          LANNATE 90SP       2 lb               1.8
                 NUDRIN 90W         2 lb
                 LANNATE 1.8EC      4 pt
                 NUDRIN 1.8L        4 PT
R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.

_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Leafroller   R parathion 15WP       6 lb               0.9                14
(cont.)

REMARKS:  See label for apply variety cautions.

             R PENNCAP-M 2MEL       4-8 pt             1-2                14
REMARKS:  Do not use before total petal fall or with streptomycin.

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Leafroller     phosmet                                 2-3                 7
(cont.)          IMIDAN 50WP        4-6 lb

             R fenvalerate                             0.1-0.3            21
                 PYDRIN 2.4EC       5.3-16 fl oz
REMARKS: Do not exceed 2.1 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Leafroller   R esfenvalerate                           0.025-0.075        21
(cont.)          ASANA 1.9EC        1.7-2 fl oz

REMARKS: Do not exceed 0.525 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

             R permethrin                              0.1-0.2      See remark
                 AMBUSH 2EC         6.4-12.8 fl oz
                 AMBUSH 25WP        6.4-12.8 oz
                 POUNCE 3.2EC       4-8 fl oz
                 POUNCE 25WP        6.4-12.8 oz
REMARKS: Do not apply Ambush or Pounce after petal fall.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, 
         Ambush or Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems
         later in the season.

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Leafroller     chlorpyrifos                            1.5                28
(cont.)          LORSBAN 50WP       3 lb

REMARKS:  Do not apply last two treatments closer than 21 days apart or apply 
          more than eight applications/season.

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Mites          superior oil         8 gal              --                 --

REMARKS:  Delayed dormant--European red mite.

               dimethoate                              1-2                28
                 CYGON 25WP         4-8 lb
                 CYGON 4EC          2-4 pt

               oxythioquinox
                 MORESTAN 25WP      2-4 lb             0.5-1         See remark
REMARKS:  Prebloom and postharvest only.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Mites          proporgite                              1.5                 7
(cont.)          OMITE 30WP         5 lb

REMARKS:  Do not exceed three applications/season.

               hexakis                                 0.3-1.5            14
                 VENDEX 50WP        1-3 lb

               formetanate hydrochloride
                 CARZOL 92SP        1-2 lb             0.9-1.8              7

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Periodical     carbaryl                                4                   1
Cicada           SEVIN 50WP         8 lb
                 SEVIN 80S          5 lb

REMARKS:  As needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Plum         R azinphosmethyl                          0.9-1.2     See remarks
Curculio         GUTHION 35WP       2.5-3.5 lb

Remarks:  Not more than 8 applications/season nor within 15 days of harvest.  
If final two applications are at the low rate the last application may be 7 
days before harvest.

               carbaryl                                4                   1
                 SEVIN 50WP         8 lb
                 SEVIN 80S          5 lb
REMARKS:  Sevin may cause thinning if used within 30 days of petal fall.

               malathion 57%EC      6 pt               3.75                3
                         25%WP      15 lb


R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Plum         R parathion 15WP       6 lb               1                  14
Curculio  
(cont.)

REMARKS:  See label for apple variety caution statements.

             R PENNCAP-M 2MEL       4-8 pt             1-2                14
REMARKS:  Do not use before total petal fall or with streptomycin.

               methoxychlor 2EC     8-12 pt            4-6                 7

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Plum           phosmet                                 2-3                 7
Curculio         IMIDAN 50WP        4-6lb
(cont.)
             R fenvalerate
                 PYDRIN 2.4EC       5.3-16 fl oz       0.1-0.3            21
REMARKS: Do not exceed 2.1 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Plum         R esfenvalerate                           0.025-0.075        21
Curculio         ASANA 1.9EC        1.7-2 fl oz
(cont.)

REMARKS: Do not exceed 0.525 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season. 

             R permethrin                              0.1-0.3       See remark
                 AMBUSH 2EC         6.4-12.8 fl oz
                 AMBUSH 25WP        6.4-12.8 oz
                 POUNCE 3.2EC       4-8 fl oz
                 POUNCE 25WP        6.4-12.8 oz
REMARKS: Do not apply Ambush or Pounce after petal fall.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, 
         Ambush or Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems
         later in the season.
R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Plum           chlorpyrifos                            1.5                28
Curculio         LORSBAN 50WP       3 lb
(cont)

REMARKS:  Do not apply last two treatments closer than 21 days apart or apply
          more than 8 applications/season.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.

_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Scale          superior oil         8 gal              --                 --

REMARKS:  Delayed dormant.  Chlorpyrifos (Lorsban) 4E at 2-4 pt/ac or diazinon 
          50WP at 4 lb/ac may be added to the oil.  All other treatments are
          for the crawler stage.

             R azinphosmethyl                       0.9-1.2          See remark
                 GUTHION 35WP       2-2.5 lb                      
REMARKS:  Not more than 8 applications/season nor within 15 days of harvest.  
If final two applications are at the low rate the last application may be 7 days
before harvest.
  
               carbaryl                                4                   1
                 SEVIN 50WP         8 lb                             See remark
                 SEVIN 80S          5 lb                             above.

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Scale        R parathion 15WP       6 lb               0.9                14
(cont.)

REMARKS:  See label for apple variety caution statements.

             R PENNCAP-M 2MEL       4-8 pt             1-2                14
REMARKS:  Do not use before total petal fall or with streptomycin.

               chlorpyrifos                            1.5                28
                 LORSBAN 50WP       3 lb
REMARKS:  Do not apply last two treatments closer than 21 days apart or apply
          more than eight applications/season.

               diazinon 50WP        4 lb               2                  14
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Tentiform      endosulfan
Leafminer        THIODAN 50WP       4 lb               2                  21

REMARKS:  Do not exeed three applications/season.  USE FOR ADULTS.

             R fenvalerate                             0.1-0.3            21
                 PYDRIN 2.4EC       5.3-16 fl oz
REMARKS: Do not exceed 2.1 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season.  USE FOR ADULTS.

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Tentiform    R esfenvalerate                           0.025-0.075        21
Leafminer        ASANA 1.9EC        1.7-2 fl oz
(cont.)

REMARKS: Do not exceed 0.525 lb ai/ac/season.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, Ambush or 
         Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems later in the 
         season.  USE FOR ADULTS

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Tentiform    R permethrin                              0.1-0.2      See remark
Leafminer        AMBUSH 2EC         6.4-12.8 fl oz
(cont.)          AMBUSH 25WP        6.4-12.8 oz
                 POUNCE 3.2EC       4-8 fl oz
                 POUNCE 25WP        6.4-12.8 fl oz

REMARKS: Do not apply Ambush or Pounce after petal fall.  Use of Pydrin, Asana, 
         Ambush or Pounce after bloom may result in greater mite problems
         later in the season.  USE FOR ADULTS.

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Tentiform      formetanate hydrochloride
Leafminer        CARZOL 92SP        1-2 lb             0.9-1.8             7
(cont.)

REMARKS:  USE FOR ADULTS.

             R methomyl                                1.8                 8
                 LANNATE 90SP       2 lb
                 NUDRIN 90W         2 lb
                 LANNATE 1.8EC      8 pt
                 NUDRIN 1.8L        8 pt
REMARKS:  USE FOR LARVAE.  Apply when larvae are in the sap-feeding stage.

R - All or some uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
                                                                     MIN DAYS 
INSECT     PESTICIDE                  FORMULATION/AC      LB AI/AC  TO HARVEST 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

Tentiform    R oxamyl                                  1                  14
Leafminer        VYDATE L           4-8 pt
(cont.)

REMARKS:  Do not apply to bloom or within 30 days after bloom or fruit thinning
          may occur.  USE FOR LARVAE.  Apply when larvae are in the sap-feeding 
          stage. 
_______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE DISEASE CONTROL                                                      
-DOC-
                            APPLE DISEASE CONTROL                          
                   R. W. Miller, Extension Plant Pathologist

DISEASE                                                        PAGE NUMBER

BITTER ROT.....................................................317506.00001
BLACK ROT......................................................317506.00004
COLLAR ROT.....................................................317506.00008
FLYSPECK.......................................................317506.00009
NEMATODES (LESION, DAGGER).....................................317506.00012
POSTHARVEST ROTS...............................................317506.00014
POWDERY MILDEW.................................................317506.00015
RUST (CEDAR APPLE, QUINCE).....................................317506.00020
SCAB...........................................................317506.00023
WHITE ROT......................................................317506.00028
UNION NECROSIS.................................................317506.00031
                            APPLE DISEASE CONTROL

_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Bitter rot-    
Glomerella      captan                                    3 lb             0
cingulata         CAPTAN 50W    6 lb      0.32 dry oz
                  CAPTEC 4F     3 qt      0.25 fl oz
REMARKS:  Sprays for bitter rot are essential from second cover through 
harvest.  Remove all mummified apples, prune all dead wood, pick off and 
destroy all affected fruit as soon as it appears. (+ + +) Where both bitter rot 
and white rot are a problem consider using a tank mix of mancozeb plus benomyl
(+++++).
NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                          APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Bitter rot-
Glomerella      mancozeb                                4.8-6.4 lb        21
cingulata         DITHANE M-45 6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
 (CONT)           MANZATE 200  6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz 
                  DIKAR        6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
                  PENNCOZEB    6-8 LB     0.32 dry oz
                  MANZATE 4F   4.8-6.4 qt 0.50 fl oz
REMARKS:  See captan remarks.  Dikar is effective for powdery mildew under low 
disease pressure.  It has some mite-suppressant properties.  A spreader sticker
in last three sprays reduces fungicide spots.  (+ + + + +) Where white rot is
a problem add benomyl at 4 oz/100 gal or 1 lb per acre.

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                          APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Bitter rot-
Glomerella      folpet                                    3 lb            0
cingulata         Phaltan 50W  6 lb       0.25 dry oz      
 (CONT)
REMARKS:  Same remarks as for captan.  May cause leaf injury and fruit russet 
during hot, dry conditions on Delicious and Stayman varieties.  Fruit finish
problem is worse if applied before the fruit skin (cuticle) thickens in third
or fourth cover.  (+ + + + +)
                metiram                                 4.8-6.4 lb        15
                  POLYRAM 80W  6-8 lb    0.32 dry oz
REMARKS:  Same remarks as for captan and mancozeb.  (+ + + + +)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                          APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Black rot-
Botryosphaeria  captan                                  3 lb               0
obtusa            CAPTAN 50W    6 lb       0.32 dry oz
                  CAPTEC 4F     3 qt       0.25 fl oz
REMARKS:  Black rot sprays are necessary bud-break through harvest; essential
between bud break and 3rd cover. Remove dead wood and mummified fruit.  Do not
apply within 1 wk of oil sprays.  (+ + + + +) Where black rot is a problem use
benomyl within 1 wk of oil sprays.

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                          APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Black rot-
Botryosphaeria  folpet                                    3 lb             0
obtusa            PHALTAN 50W   6 lb       0.32 dry oz
 (CONT)

REMARKS:  See remarks for captan for black rot.  Do not use in combination 
with dodine.  May cause leaf injury and fruit russet during hot, dry weather.  
May cause fruit finish problems if applied before the fruit skin (cuticle) 
thickens in third or fourth cover.  (+ + + + +)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                          APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Black rot-
Botryosphaeria  mancozeb                                 4.8-6.4 lb        21
obtusa            DITHANE M-45 6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
 [B(CONT)           MANZATE 200  6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz 
                  DIKAR        6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
                  PENNCOZEB    6-8 LB     0.32 dry oz
                  MANZATE 4F   4.8-6.4 qt 0.50 fl oz
REMARKS:  Apply sprays as for captan.  Remove dead wood and mummified fruits.  
Spreader sticker in last three sprays reduces visual deposits.  Dikar contains
dinocap, effective for powdery mildew where disease pressure is low.(+ + +) If
black rot is a problem consider tank mix with benomyl (4 oz/100 gal or 1 lb/ac.)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                            APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Black rot-
Botryosphaeria  metiram                                 4.8-6.4 lb        15
obtusa            POLYRAM 80W   6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz 
 (CONT)

REMARKS:  Apply sprays as for captan 50W.  Remarks for mancozeb apply. (+ + +)


NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Collar rot- 
Phytophthora    metalaxyl                                 4.8 lb         4 mo
spp.              RIDOMIL 2E   See remarks See remarks
   
REMARKS:  Make applications before symptoms appear.  Mix 1 qt of Ridomil 2E 
with 100 gal of water and apply 1 qt of final solution to trees less than an
inch, 2 qts 1-3 inches in diameter, 3 qts 3-5 inches, and 4 qts over 5 inches.  
Make one application at planting or in spring and another after harvest.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fire blight     streptomycin                             0.42 lb         50
                  AGRIMYCIN,
                  AGRISTREP,    2 lb       0.08 dry oz
                  PHYTOMYCIN
REMARKS:  Use at the rate of 100 ppm as a dilute spray at 5-day intervals 
through bloom.  For best control, streptomycin should not be mixed with other 
chemicals in the spray tank.  Product per ac based on 400 gal dilute.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Flyspeck and    benomyl                                   0.37 lb    See
sooty blotch      BENLATE 50W   0.75 lb    0.03 dry oz               remarks
Gloeodes pomi-
gena, Schizoth- thiophanate-                              0.7 lb     See
yrium pomi      methyl                                            remarks.
                  TOPSIN-M 70W 0.75 lb     0.03 dry oz  
Remarks: Recommended in combination with mancozeb 80W (3 lb/ac) or captan 50W 
(4 lb/ac).  Minimum days till last application with mancozeb-21, captan-0.  
Use from sixth cover through harvest.  Residual effectiveness of combinations 
is 45 days.  (+ + + + +)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Flyspeck and    captan                                    3.0 lb         0
sooty blotch      CAPTAN 50W    6 lb       0.32 dry oz
G. pomigena,      CAPTEC 4F     3 qt       0.25 fl oz
S. pomi
 (CONT)

Remarks:  Residual effectiveness for control is 28 days. (+ + + +)

                folpet                                    3.0 lb         0
                 PHALTAN        6 lb       0.32 dry oz
Remarks:  May cause leaf injury and fruit russet during hot, dry weather.  (+ 
+ + + +)
NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Flyspeck and    metiram                                  4.8-6.4 lb      15
sooty blotch      POLYRAM 80W  6-8 lb      0.32 dry oz
G. pomigena,    mancozeb                                 4.8-6.4 lb      21
S. pomi           DITHANE M-45 6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
 (CONT)           MANZATE 200  6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz 
                  DIKAR        6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
                  PENNCOZEB    6-8 LB     0.32 dry oz
                  MANZATE 4F   4.8-6.4 qt 0.50 fl oz
Remarks: (+ + + + + +)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                        APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Nematodes       1,3 dichloro-                             313 lb         1 yr
 lesion,        propene                       Not
 dagger           TELONE II      33 gal     Applicable
Remarks:  Preplant fumigation only.  The rate indicated is approximate.  
Consult label for specific soils and use situations.  May be applied as strip 
or or broadcast treatment.  Late summer treatments best.  Allow 3-6 months for 
aeration prior to planting.
             R  oxamyl          Not           See           2 lb         1 yr
                  VYDATE L   Applicable     Remarks                Non-bearing
REMARKS:  Use as foliar application.  Use 2-4 pts. per 100gal as dilute spray.
Make 4 applications at 2 wk intervals on actively growing plants.  Use spreader
sticker.  Do not apply to plants under water stress.  Commercial use only. 
NOTE:Lesion and dagger nematodes have not caused detectable damage when land is 
first planted to apple but may be a problem when replanted.  Dagger nematode is 
a Virus vector.  See Apple "union necrosis".
R- Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Nematodes    R Fenamiphos                     Not          20 lb        72
lesion and       NEMACUR        6.6 gal    Applicable   
dagger
 (CONT)

REMARKS:  Split the application applying 3.3 gal in the spring after April 1 
but not within 72 days of harvest and 3.3 gal in the fall after harvest but 
before November 1 if possible.  Lesion(+++++), Dagger(+++)

Note:Lesion and dagger nematodes have not caused detectable damage when land is 
first planted to apple but may be a problem when replanted.  Dagger nematode is 
a Virus vector.  See Apple "union necrosis".
R- Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Postharvest     benomyl 50W                           Not applicable      0
rots              BENLATE     Not applicable Not applicable
Penicillium     thiophanate-                          Not applicable.     0
                methyl 70W
                  TOPSIN-M    Not applicable Not applicable
REMARKS:  Dip harvested fruit (8 oz/100 gal).  Not effective for bitter rot 
control.  Resistance of Penicillium to these products is a threat.  Cork spot
and bitter pit are physiological disorders that are normally controlled in 
South Carolina by inclusion of calcium and boron in certain covers sprays.  
Consult Information card 110, Commercial Apple Spray Guide.  Scald is a 
physiological disorder resulting in superficial browning and death of the skin 
when apples are removed from storage.  To control harvest at proper 
maturity, cool rapidly, store promptly.  Air purification will help.  These 
procedures may be supplemented with DPA (diphenylamine, NOSCALD).  Follow 
package label.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Powdery mildew  benomyl                                  0.37 lb          0
Podosphaera      BENLATE 50W 0.5-0.75 lb  0.03 dry oz
leucotricha     thiophanate-                             0.7 lb           0
                methyl
                  TOPSIN M     1 LB        0.04 dry oz
REMARKS:  Use from bud-break through third cover or until terminal growth 
stops.  May be used in combination with mancozeb and captan as suggested for 
other diseases or in combination with oil.
Caution:  Oil may cause fruit russet.  Continued use of benomyl or 
thiophanate-methyl may lead to development of tolerant strains.  On red 
delicious a fruit finish may be opalescent with continued use.(+ + + +)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Powdery mildew  mancozeb +                                6.4 lb          21
Podosphaera     dinocap
leucotricha       DIKAR        8 lb        0.32 dry oz
 (CONT)         dinocap                                  0.195 lb         21
                  KARATHANE
                   19.5WD      1 lb        0.04 dry oz
REMARKS:  Use from bud-break through third cover.  Dinocap is the active 
ingredient in Dikar that is effective against powdery mildew.  (+ + +)
Do not use with wettable parathion from pink through second cover.  On very
susceptible varieties, rate of Karathane may be increased to 2.5-3.5 lb/ac. 
Do not tank-mix with sulfur.  When mildew is heavy add spreader sticker.(+ + +)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT) 

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Powdery mildew  triadimefon                               1-4 dry oz      0
Podosphaera       BAYLETON 50W 2-8 dry oz  0.005-0.02 dry oz
leucotricha
 (CONT)

REMARKS:  Make first application at green-tip and continue application at 7-14 
day intervals (see information Card 110 for normal schedule of applications) 
as needed until terminal growth stops.  Do not apply more than 24 oz/ac/yr.  
May be applied day of harvest.  Do not graze treated orchards.  Does not 
control rots or scab.  (+ + + +)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                        APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Powdery mildew  fenarimol                                 0.09 lb      see
Podosphaera        RUBIGAN     6-12 fl oz    0.12 fl oz               remarks
leucotricha        12.5EC
 (CONT)
REMARKS:  Fenarimol is also effective for scab and rust but not for black rot, 
white rot or bitter rot.  In the southeast it must be tank mixed with other 
fungicides for these diseases.  To take advantage of after infection activity 
after using tank mix with protectant fungicide, delay next application till 
another infection period or 10 days, which ever comes first. Do not apply after 
second cover or fruits exceed 1/2 inch in diameter.
                wettable sulfur-minimum 80%               9.6 lb           N/A
                 SULFUR,
                  THIOLUX DF    12 lb        0.5   
REMARKS:  Use from bud-break through third cover.  Reduce rate of sulfur to 6 
lb/ac starting at petal fall.  May be used in combination with dodine, 
mancozeb, captan, and metiram.  Do not use in combination with Morestan.(+ + +)
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC    PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC     TO HARVEST
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Powdery mildew  triforine                                 0.5 lb    See
Podosphaera       FUNGINEX                                          remarks
leucotricha        1.6EC        40 fl oz    0.1 fl oz
 (CONT)

REMARKS:  Do not aply after petal fall.  Apply at 7-day intervals starting 
1/2 in green tip.  Do not exceed five applications/season.  For dilute sprays 
use 10 oz/100 gal.  Does not control black rot. (+ + + +)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Rust (cedar-    mancozeb                                  4.8-6.4 lb       21
apple and         DITHANE M-45     6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
quince rust)      MANZATE 200,     6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
Gymnosporangium   DIKAR            6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
spp.              PENNCOZEB        6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
                  MANZATE 4F   4.8-6.4 qt     0.50 fl oz
                metiram                                   4.8-6.4 lb       21
                  POLYRAM          6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
REMARKS: Use from prepink through first cover.  Remove cedar trees up to 1/4 
mile from orchard.  Protective activity only.  May be combined with after 
infection activity fungicides.(+ + + + +)   

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Rust (cedar-    ferbam                                    2.28 lb           7
apple and          CARBAMATE
quince rust)        76W          3 lb       0.12 oz      See remarks
Gymnosporangium
spp. (CONT)

REMARKS:  Use in combination with captan 8 lb/ac.  Same remarks as for 
mancozeb.  Do not use within 1 wk of oil spray.  When used in combination with 
sulfur do not use within 10 days of oil or during periods of excessive high 
temperatures.  Russet may occur if used prior to or during bloom on golden 
delicious.(+ + + +)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Rust (cedar     triadimefon                              0.1-0.4 oz        0
apple and         BAYLETON 50W  2-8 oz     0.005-0.02 dry oz
quince rust)   
Gymnosporangium   
spp. (CONT)
REMARKS:  Make first application at green-tip and continue application at 7-14 
day intervals (see information Card 110 for normal schedule of applications) 
as needed until terminal growth stops.  Do not apply more than 24 oz/ac/yr.  
May be applied day of harvest.  Do not graze treated orchards.  Does not 
control rots or scab.  (+ + + +)
                triforine
                  FUNGINEX                                  0.5 lb      See 
                   1.6EC        40 oz      0.1 fl oz                   remarks
REMARKS:  Do not apply after petal fall.  Apply at 7-day intervals starting 
1/2 in green tip.  Do not exceed five applications/season.  For dilute sprays 
use 10 oz/100 gal.  Does not control black rot. (+ + + +)
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT) 
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Scab            benomyl         3/4 lb     0.03 oz       0.37 lb     With
Venturia          BENLATE 50W   See remarks.                         mancozeb-
inaequalis                                                            21.  With
                thiophanate-    l lb       0.04 oz       0.7 lb      captan-O
                methyl          See remarks.                         With
                  TOPSIN-M 70W                                       metiram-15
REMARKS: Scab sprays are required from bud break through harvest.  Continued 
use may lead to development of tolerant strains.  Use in combination with 
mancozeb, captan, or metiram.  Benomyl or thiophanate-methyl has after-
infection activity for 36 hours.  In South Carolina use should be 
limited to severe scab infestations or after-infection periods.  May be used 
in combination with spray oil.  See package label. (+ + + +)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119. 
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT) 

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC     TO HARVEST 
______________________________________________________________________________
Scab            captan                                    3-4 lb      0
Venturia          CAPTAN 50W  6-8 LB       0.32 dry oz
inaequalis        CAPTEC 4F    3 qt        0.25 fl oz
 (CONT)

REMARKS: Sprays for scab are required from budbreak until harvest.  Do not 
apply captan within 1 wk of oil spray. (+ + + +) When warranted add or
substitute other materials for control of powdery mildew, rust, and bitter rot.

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).
See Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Scab
Venturia        dodine                                    1.3 lb         7
inaequalis        CYPREX 65W    2 lb       0.08 oz                 See remarks.
 (CONT)

REMARKS: Sprays for scab are required from budbreak until harvest.  Reduce 
rate to 1 lb/ac at petal fall and first cover.  Use beyond first cover will 
result in russet.  Dodine has after-infection activity up to 36 hr and may be 
used in combination with oil. (+ + + + +)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119. 
                        APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
scab                               
Venturia        triforine                                   0.5 lb      See
inaequalis        FUNGINEX                                             remarks.
 (CONT)            1.6EC        40 oz      0.1 fl oz

REMARKS: See powdery mildew.  Has very low protective activity, good after-
infection activity(72 hr) and pre-symptom activity, poor after-symptom activity.
Do not apply after petal fall.  Sprays for scab are required from bud break 
through harvest.  Apply alternative fungicide after petal fall.  Also controls
rust and mildew.

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119. 
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Scab            mancozeb                                 4.8-6.4 lb       21
Venturia          DITHANE M-45 6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
inaequalis        MANZATE 200, 6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
 (CONT)           DIKAR        6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
                  PENNCOZEB    6-8 LB     0.32 dry oz
                  MANZATE 4F   4.8-6.4 qt 0.50 fl oz
                metiram                                  4.8-6.4 lb       15
                  POLYRAM      6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
REMARKS: Sprays for scab are required from budbreak until harvest. (+ + +)

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119. 
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
White rot       captan                                   3-4 lb            0
Botryosphaeria    CAPTAN 50W   6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
dothidiea         CAPTEC 4F    3 qt       0.25 fl oz
                folpet                                   3-4 lb            0
                  PHALTAN      6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
REMARKS:  Sprays for white rot should be applied from 1st cover through 
harvest.  Remove dead wood from tree.  Phaltan may cause leaf injury and fruit 
russet during hot, dry weather. (+ + + + +) 

NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                         APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

_______________________________________________________________________________

                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
White rot       mancozeb                                 4.8-6.4 lb       21
Botryosphaeria    DITHANE M-45, 6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
dothidea          MANZATE 200,  6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
 (CONT)           DIKAR         6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz
                  PENNCOZEB     6-8 LB     0.32 dry oz
                  MANZATE 4F    4.8-6.4 qt 0.50 fl oz
                     or
REMARKS: (+ + +) Where mancozeb and metiram are used for bitter rot control
supplement with benomyl or thiophanate methyl.  Sprays for white rot control 
should be applied from first cover through harvest.  Remove dead wood.  May 
also be used in combination with captan at rates of 4 lb/ac captan 50W and 4
lb/ac mancozeb 80W from fourth cover until 21 days before harvest. (+ + + +)
NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
White Rot
Botryosphaeria  metiram                                  4.8-6.4 lb       15
dothidiea         POLYRAM 
 (CONT)            80W         6-8 lb     0.32 dry oz

REMARKS: (+ + +) Where mancozeb and metiram are used for bitter rot control
supplement with benomyl or thiophanate methyl.  Sprays for white rot control 
should be applied from first cover through harvest.  Remove dead wood.  May 
also be used in combination with captan at rates of 4 lb/ac captan 50W and 4
lb/ac metiram 80W from fourth cover until 21 days before harvest. (+ + + +)
NOTE:  Product/ac or ai/ac is based on trees pruned to 18-22 ft high requiring
400 gal to constitute a dilute spray.  Relative effectiveness of fungicides for
disease control(+ + + = fair to good, to + + + + + + = very effective).  See
Clemson Extension Information Card 110, or Information Card 119.
                           APPLE DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)                   

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                                      MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC      TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Union necrosis
Tomato ring spot                 SEE REMARKS
virus

REMARKS:  Union necrosis is vectored from weed hosts such as dandelions to 
apple by dagger nematodes.  Control is obtained through use of herbicides such 
as simazine to control perennial weeds in the orchard floor and dagger nematode 
control.  Consult under nematodes and weed control in apples.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Root rot-
White, black                     SEE REMARKS
and oak root rot

REMARKS:  Although methyl bromide fumigation is cleared for preplant fumigation
of infested sites, experience in South Carolina indicates poor control of these
diseases is obtained.  Best to rotate away from such sites. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BLACKBERRY WEED CONTROL                            
-DOC-
                            BLACKBERRY WEED CONTROL
                   G. A. King, Jr., Extension Horticulturist
 
Many herbicides recommended for use on blackberries are wettable powders.  
They go into suspension, not solution.  Therefore, constant agitation is 
required to keep them in suspension.  Mechanical agitation is better than 
hydraulic agitation and line and nozzle strainers should be at least 50 mesh.  
Also, since wettable powders are abrasive, sprayers should be recalibrated 
frequently.
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                           
PESTICIDE                     RATE AI/AC          TIME OF APPLICATION
                           ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
Established blackberries:  
  simazine                      2-4 lb            Apply half in spring before
    PRINCEP 4G                                    budbreak and half after
                                                  harvest.
REMARKS:  Use lowest rate on light soils.  Do not apply while fruit is 
present.  Controls annual weeds in established plantings.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLACKBERRY WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                           
PESTICIDE                     RATE AI/AC          TIME OF APPLICATION
                           ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
  diuron                        3-4 lb            Apply in spring before weeds
    KARMEX 80W                                    emerge and before canes leaf
                                                  out.
REMARKS:  Use lowest rate on light soils.  Plants must be at least 1 yr old.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  oryzalin                      2-5 lb            Apply to new plantings after 
    SURFLAN 75W                                   the soil settles, to 
                                                  established plantings in 
                                                  spring before weeds emerge.
REMARKS:  Use low rate for short-term control and high rate for long-term 
control.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLACKBERRY WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                           
PESTICIDE                     RATE AI/AC          TIME OF APPLICATION
                           ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
  dichlobenil                   2-4 lb            Apply in Jan.-March to 
    CASORON 4G                                    cold, wet soil.
REMARKS:  Use the granular formulation only.  This material loses its 
effectiveness rapidly if exposed to dry, warm conditions.  Use lower rate on 
lighter soils.  Do not apply during new shoot emergence.  Use on plants 
established for 1 yr or more.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  diphenamid                                       On new plantings apply just 
    ENIDE 50W                   8-12 lb            after planting but before 
    ENIDE 90W                   4.4-6.6 lb         weeds germinate.  On 
                                                   established plantings apply 
                                                   before weed emergence.
REMARKS:  Apply as a directed spray but do not apply within 60 days of harvest 
or use more than the recommended amount of material during the growing season.  
Use lowest rate on light soils; higher rate on heavier soils.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLACKBERRY WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                           
PESTICIDE                     RATE AI/AC          TIME OF APPLICATION
                           ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
  napropamide                   4 lb               Late fall or early spring.
     DEVRINOL 50WP                          
REMARKS:  Apply water within 24 hr to activate material.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  fluazifop-butyl               0.5 lb             Apply to actively growing 
    FUSILADE 4E                                    grasses.  Apply to 
                                                   perennial johnsongrass 
                                                   before it exceeds 12-18 in 
                                                   tall and before boot stage.
                                                   Apply to perennial bermuda-
                                                   grass before it exceeds 3 
                                                   in tall or with 4-8 in 
                                                   runners.  Apply to annual
                                                   grasses before they reach 
                                                   2-9 in tall and before 
                                                   tillering and/or heading.
REMARKS:  Thorough spray coverage required.  Use only on nonbearing plants, as 
for site preparation before transplanting.  Apply as directed spray to prevent 
contact with plant foliage.  Do not tank mix with other herbicides.  Add 1 qt 
crop oil concentrate or 1/2 pt nonionic surfactant/25 gal water.  Use 25 gal 
dilute spray/ac treated with 30-60 pressure.                                                                     
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLACKBERRY WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                           
PESTICIDE                     RATE AI/AC          TIME OF APPLICATION
                           ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
  sethoxydim                    0.5 lb             Apply to actively growing 
    POAST                                          grasses.  Apply to 
                                                   perennial johnsongrass 
                                                   before it exceeds 12-18 in 
                                                   tall and before boot stage.
                                                   Apply to perennial bermuda-
                                                   grass before it exceeds 3 
                                                   in tall or with 4-8 in 
                                                   runners.  Apply to annual
                                                   grasses before they reach 
                                                   2-9 in tall and before 
                                                   tillering and/or heading.
REMARKS:  Thorough spray coverage required.  Use only on nonbearing plants, as 
for site preparation before transplanting.  Apply as a directed spray to 
prevent contact with plant foliage.  Do not tank mix with other herbicides.  
Add 1 qt crop oil concentrate or 1/2 pt nonionic surfactant/25 gal water.  Use 
25 gal dilute spray/ac treated with 30-60 pressure.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLACKBERRY WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                           
PESTICIDE                     RATE AI/AC          TIME OF APPLICATION
                           ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
   norflurazon                   2-4 lb            Apply from fall to early
     SOLICAM DF                                    spring before weeds
                                                   emerge.
REMARKS:  Use lowest rate on light soils.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
   diuron                        1.5-3 lb          Apply preemergence to 
     DIREX 4L                                      weeds.
REMARKS:  Apply only to plants established 1 yr or more.  Do not use on sand, 
loamy sand or gravelly soils.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
dinoseb                          1.25 lb           Apply after harvest.
  FERMENTA GENERAL WEED KILLER
REMARKS:  Apply to lower 18 in of cane using 100-150 gal/A for control of 
annual grasses, weeds and unwanted fruit spurs.  Do not apply within 30 days 
of harvest or make more than 4 applications per season. 
_____________________________________________________________________________ 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BLUEBERRY WEED CONTROL                            
-DOC-
                            BLUEBERRY WEED CONTROL
                   G. A. King, Jr., Extension Horticulturist
 
Chemicals will provide good weed control in established plantings as well as 
control annual weeds in new blueberry fields.  Herbicide treatment of new 
plantings must be done with caution because very young plants have small roots 
near the soil surface and may be seriously injured by chemicals applied at too 
high rates.  A wise policy would be to apply no herbicides until the blueberry 
plants have been in the field 6 mo to 1 yr.  Good weed control requires 
accurate application, timing and amount of materials if weeds are to be 
controlled without injury to the blueberry plants.  New blueberry plants 
should be treated to control annual weeds with reduced rates of certain 
herbicides in the spring following the setting of plants.
______________________________________________________________________________                                                                   
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________                               
  simazine                    3-4 lb               Apply half in spring before
    PRINCEP 80W                                    budbreak and half after
                                                   harvest.
REMARKS:  Use lowest rate on light soils.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLUEBERRY WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________                                   
  dichlobenil                 4-6 lb               Apply early spring before
    CASORON                                        mid-February
REMARKS:  Use on plants established 1 yr or more.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  terbacil                 1.6-3.2 lb              Use in spring or after  
    SINBAR 80W                                     harvest before weeds emerge
                                                   or shortly after emergence.
REMARKS:  Use only on plantings established 1 yr or more.  Use lower rate on 
lighter soil.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLUEBERRY WEED CONTROL 
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________                                   
  chlorpropham               8-12 lb               Apply in late fall and 
    FURLOE, CIPC                                   again in early spring for
                                                   hard-to-kill grasses.
REMARKS:  Direct spray to base of plants in weed-free soil.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R paraquat                   0.5-1 lb              Apply before new canes 
    PARAQUAT CL                                    emerge.
REMARKS:  Avoid contact with green tissue.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.                           
 
BLUEBERRY WEED CONTROL 
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________                                 
  fluazifop-butyl           0.5 lb                 Apply to actively growing 
    FUSILADE 4E                                    grasses.  Apply to
                                                   perennial johnsongrass
                                                   before it exceeds 12-18 in
                                                   tall and before boot stage.
                                                   Apply to perennial bermuda-
                                                   grass before it exceeds 3 
                                                   in tall or has 4-8 in 
                                                   runners.  Apply to annual
                                                   grasses before they reach
                                                   2-8 in tall and before
                                                   tillering and/or heading.
REMARKS:  Thorough spray coverage is required.  Use only on nonbearing plants, 
as for site preparation before transplanting.  Apply as a directed spray to 
prevent contact with plant foliage.  Do not tank with other herbicides.  Add 1 
qt of crop oil concentrate or 1/2 pt of a nonionic surfactant/25 gal water.  
Use 25 gal dilute spray/ac treated with 30-60 psi pressure.
BLUEBERRY WEED CONTROL 
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________                                 
  napropamide                4 lb                  Late fall or early spring.
    DEVRINOL 50WP
REMARKS:  Apply water within 24 hr to activate material.                     
______________________________________________________________________________
   diuron                  1.5-3 lb                Apply premergence to weeds.
     DIREX 4L
REMARKS:  Apply only to plants established 1 yr or more.  Do not use on sand, 
loamy sand or gravelly soils.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
   dinoseb                 1.25-2.5 lb             Apply when annual weeds and
     FERMENTA GENERAL WEED KILLER                  grasses are 6" tall.
REMARKS:  Use a directed spray 3-4 times per year on plants 2 years or older.  
Apply 100-150 gal/A.  Do not apply within 30 days of harvest.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLUEBERRY WEED CONTROL 
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________                                 
   pronamide               1-2 lb                  Apply in fall or early
     KERB 50W                                      winter to unfrozen ground.
REMARKS:  Do not apply to newly transplanted blueberries until roots are well 
established.  Do not make more than one application per year.  Best activity 
occurs when applied under cool emperatures (55 degrees F or less) and when 
followed by rainfall or overhead irrigation.
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GRAPE WEED CONTROL                              
-DOC-
                              GRAPE WEED CONTROL
                   G. A. King, Jr., Extension Horticulturist
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE                 RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                       ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________                   
  dichlobenil          4-6 lb                    Early spring or after 
    CASORON 50W        depending on crop         cultivation.  Can be applied
    CASORON 4G         and weed population       later if lightly mixed into
                                                 soil.
REMARKS:  Apply as directed spray to orchard floor.  Do not graze livestock in 
treated areas.  Do not spray fruit or foliage of bearing trees.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bearing Grapes:
  diuron               1.6-4.8 lb                Apply in spring before weeds
    DREXEL 4L                                    emerge or cultivate cleanly 
    DREXEK 80                                    in the early spring and then
                                                 apply.
REMARKS:  Do not apply on grapes until at least third growing season.  Use 
lower rate on lighter soils; higher rate on heavy soils.                   
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAPE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE                 RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                       ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________                   
  simazine             2 1/2-3 lb                Apply in late fall following
    PRINCEP 80W                                  harvest, to early spring 
                                                 before weed emergence.
REMARKS:  Do not exceed 4 lb/ac/yr.  When two applications are made, rate 
should not exceed 2 1/2 lb/ac/application.  Plants should be established for 3 
yr or more before treating.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  oryzalin             2-5 lb                    Apply under vine in spring 
     SURFLAN 75W                                 before weed emergence.  May 
                                                 be applied to newly planted
                                                 vines after the soil settles 
                                                 and to nonbearing and bearing
                                                 vines.
REMARKS:  Use low rate for short-term control and high rate for long term 
control.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAPE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE                 RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                       ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________                   
R paraquat             1/2-1 lb                  Apply when weeds and grasses 
    PARAQUAT CL                                  are tender and growth 1 to 6
                                                 in high.  Repeat application
                                                 as needed to control newly
                                                 germinated weeds and grasses
                                                 and to control regrowth of
                                                 perennials.
REMARKS:  Apply as a directed spray.  Thoroughly cover weeds and grasses using 
coarse spray.  Do not spray when windy to avoid drifting.  Be careful not to 
spray tender stems and foliage as injury may result from spot burning, 
desiccation, and/or defoliation.  Do not let cattle graze on treated area.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.                           
GRAPE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE                 RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                       ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________                   
  glyphosate           1-2 qt                    Apply before the end of grape
     ROUNDUP 4EC                                 bloom when weeds are actively
                                                 growing.
REMARKS:  Apply as a directed spray under trellis in vineyards established at 
least 3 years or for site preparation before planting.  Keep spray off green 
foliage, green bark, and suckers.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  napropamide          4 lb                      Late fall or early spring.
     DEVRINOL 50WP
REMARKS:  Apply water within 24 hr to activate material.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAPE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE                 RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                       ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________                   
  fluazifop-butyl      0.5 lb                    Apply to actively growing
   FUSILADE 4E                                   grasses.  Application to
                                                 perennial johnsongrass should
                                                 be made before it exceeds 12-
                                                 18 in tall and before boot 
                                                 stage.  Application to
                                                 perennial bermudagrass should
                                                 be made before it exceeds 3 
                                                 in tall or has 4- to 8-in 
                                                 runners.  Apply to annual
                                                 grasses before they are 2-8
                                                 in tall and before tillering
                                                 and/or heading.
REMARKS:  Thorough spray coverage is required.  Use only on nonbearing plants,
as for site preparation before transplanting.  Apply as a directed spray to 
prevent contact with plant foliage.  Do not tank mix with other herbicides.  
Add 1 qt crop oil concentrate or 1/2 nonionic surfactant/25 gal water.  Use 
25 gal dilute spray/ac treated with 30-60 psi pressure.
_______________________________________________________________________________                      
GRAPE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE                 RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                       ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________                   
  sethoxydim           0.5 lb                    Apply to actively growing
   POAST                                         grasses.  Application to
                                                 perennial johnsongrass should
                                                 be made before it exceeds 12-
                                                 18 in tall and before boot 
                                                 stage.  Application to
                                                 perennial bermudagrass should
                                                 be made before it exceeds 3 
                                                 in tall or has 4-to-8 in 
                                                 runners.  Apply to annual
                                                 grasses before they are 2-8
                                                 in tall and before tillering
                                                 and/or heading.
REMARKS:  Thorough spray coverage is required.  Use only on nonbearing plants,
as for site preparation before transplanting.  Apply as a directed spray to 
prevent contact with plant foliage.  Do not tank mix with other herbicides.  
Add 1 qt crop oil concentrate or 1/2 nonionic surfactant/25 gal water.  Use 
25 gal dilute spray/ac treated with 30-60 psi pressure.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAPE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE                 RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                       ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________                   
  dinoseb            1.25-2.5 lb                 Apply when annual weeds and
    FERMENTA GENERAL WEED KILLER                 grasses are 6" tall.
REMARKS:  Use a directed spray 3-4 times per year on plants 2 years or older.  
Apply 100-150 gal/A.  Do not apply within 30 days of harvest.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  pronamide            1-4 lb                    Apply in fall after harvest 
    KERB                                         but before soil freezes.
REMARKS:  Do not apply to seedling vines less than one year old or to fall 
transplanted stock that has been transplanted less than one year or to spring 
transplanted stock that has been transplanted less than 6 months.  When used 
as recommended, established nonbearing and bearing grapes are very tolerant to 
Kerb herbicide.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAPE WEED CONTROL
_______________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE                 RATE AI/AC             TIME OF APPLICATION
                       ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________                   
  trifluralin         0.5-2 lb                   Apply and incorporate before
    TREFLAN EC, MTF, 5CF or TR-10                planting.
REMARKS:  Use only on new sites prior to planting.
______________________________________________________________________________
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL                  
-DOC-
                  GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL
                   R. W. Miller, Extension Plant Pathologist
______________________________________________________________________________
INTRODUCTION:  Production of full crops of grapes usually requires a spray 
program from dormant period till harvest.  Amount of fungicide per acre will 
increase with growth of pruned vines.  First new shoot spray (1-2 in. long) 
requires 33% of per acre rate.  Second new shoot (6-10 in.) spray requires 50% 
followed by pre-bloom and post-bloom sprays of 67% of per acre rate.  First 
cover spray follows post bloom spray 1 week later at 83% and second cover or 
fruit set spray 2 weeks later at 100%. Usually 4 or more cover sprays are 
required. Turn off nozzles as required.  Spray only the target.  Failure to 
direct all spray materials to target will result in inadequate pesticide to 
control disease or require 100% per acre rate in all sprays.  Through coverage 
is essential. Berry rots are important from 2nd cover through harvest.  Disease
pressure becomes severe as berries approach maturity.  See also Information 
Card 99 or Information Card 119.  Sanitation and incorporation of debris will 
reduce disease pressure of all grape diseases listed.  Diseases of grapes are 
powdery mildew (Uncinula necator), black rot (Guignardia bidwellii), angular 
leaf spot (Mycosphaerella angulata), bitter rot (Melanconium fuligineum), ripe 
rot (Glomerella cingulata), Macrophoma rot (Botryosphaeria dothidea), 
anthracnose (Elsinoe ampelina), downy mildew (Plasmopara viticola), dead 
arm (Eutypa aemeniacae) and pierces disease, a xylem limited bacterium. 
                GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL


DISEASE                                                        PAGE NUMBER

ANGULAR LEAF SPOT/BLACK ROT/
  DOWNY MILDEW/ANTHRACNOSE/DEAD ARM............................317530.00003
BLACK ROT/POWDERY MILDEW ONLY..................................317530.00007
POWDERY MILDEW ONLY............................................317530.00008
BLACK ROT AND DOWNY MILDEW.....................................317530.00009
DEAD ARM.......................................................317530.00010
ISARIOPSIS LEAF BLIGHT.........................................317530.00010
OAK ROOT ROT...................................................317530.00011
NEMATODES......................................................317530.00012
CROWN GALL.....................................................317530.00014
PIERCES DISEASE................................................317530.00015

   TO OBTAIN INFORMATION ON A SPECIFIC DISEASE, PRESS F1-7, PAGE NUMBER
                           AND RETURN <R>
              GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Angular leaf    maneb                                   3.2 lb          
spot, black rot,  MANEX       3.2 qts      1 fl oz                     66
downy mildew,     MANEB 4L    1.6 qts      0.5 fl oz                   66
anthracnose,      DITHANE M22 5 lb         0.8 dry oz                  66
dead arm        folpet                                  3 lb            
                  FOLPET      6 lb         0.96 dry oz                  0
                captan                                  3 lb
                  CAPTEC      3 qts        0.96 fl oz                   0
                  CAPTAN 4L   3 qts        0.96 fl oz                   0
                  CAPTAN 50W  6 lb         0.96 dry oz                  0
                                                                                
REMARKS: The above fungicides at rates indicated may be used through fruit set
or second cover for diseases indicated.  Although registered label exists for 
folpet availability in the market place is questionable. Do not use captan more 
than four times per season.  Check label to be sure rate to be used is listed. 
Those with higher rate are recommended.
               GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Angular leaf    mancozeb                                3.2 lb
spot, black rot,  MANZATE 200    4 lb       0.64 dry oz                66
downy mildew,     MANZATE 200 F  3.2 qts    1 fl oz                    66
anthracnose,      DITHANE M45    4 lb       0.64 dry oz                66
dead arm          DITHANE F45    3.2 qts    1 fl oz                    66
                  DIKAR          4.0 lb     0.64 dry oz                66
                  PENNCOZEB F    3.2 qts    1 fl oz                    66

REMARKS:  The above fungicides, at rates indicated may, be used through fruit 
set or second cover for diseases indicated.  Benlate is not effective for downy 
mildew. Dikar is effective for powdery mildew on mildly susceptible varieties.
               GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Angular leaf    benomyl                                 0.75 lb
spot, black rot,  BENLATE 50W    1.5 lb     0.24 oz                    7 
downy mildew,
anthracnose,
dead arm
 (CONT)

REMARKS:  The above fungicides, at rates indicated may, be used through fruit 
set or second cover for diseases indicated.  Benlate is not effective for downy 
mildew.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anthracnose      Copper sulfate  8 lb       1.28 oz      N/A          Exempt.
only
REMARKS: Use a minimum of 100 gal water/ac.  Apply after vines are pruned and 
sanitary measures complete during dormant period.  This spray is only 
necessary on bunch-type grapes.
               GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Angular leaf    maneb                                   1.5 lb          
spot, black rot,  MANEX       1.5 qts      1 fl oz                      7
downy mildew,     DITHANE M22 1.75 lb      0.28 dry oz                  7
dead arm,       folpet                                  3 lb            
anthracnose       FOLPET      6 lb         0.96 dry oz                  0
                captan                                  3 lb
                  CAPTEC      3 qts        0.96 fl oz                   0
                  CAPTAN 4L   3 qts        0.96 fl oz                   0
                  CAPTAN 50W  6 lb         0.96 dry oz                  0
                benomyl                                 0.75 lb
                  BENLATE 50W    1.5 lb     0.24 oz                    7
REMARKS:  Above fungicides are for 3rd cover through preharvest interval for 
diseases indicated. Although registered label exists for folpet availability is 
questionable.  Do not use captan more than 4 times per season.  Check label to 
be sure rate is listed.  Maneb rates may not be effective.  Captan may be 
preferred material.  Benlate does not control downy mildew. 
               GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Black rot,      triadimefon                              0.37 lb
powdery           BAYLETON 50W  2-6 dry oz   0.06 dry oz               14
mildew          benomyl                                  0.75 lb
only              BENLATE 50W   1.5 lb       0.24 dry oz                7
                mancozeb +         
                   dinocap                              2.8 - 0.18 lb
                  DIKAR 80W     4.0 lb       0.64 dry oz               66
REMARKS:  Do not use more than 18 oz of Bayleton per acre per season.  
Resistance of powdery mildew to benomyl is possible.  If control failure occurs 
submit samples to Clemson for resistance diagnosis.  Bayleton and benomyl are 
locally systemic. In muscadines, these materials may be supplemented with maneb 
or captan to control (when Bayleton is used) or enhance control (when Benlate is
used) of ripe rot , bitter rot and Macrophoma rot.  Benomyl is especially weak
against ripe rot.  See under angular leaf spot for rates either before or after
fruit set.  
               GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Powdery mildew sulfur                                    4.5 lb
only             SUPER SIX      6 pts        0.96 fl oz              EXEMPT
                 SULFUR 6F      6 pts        0.96 fl oz              EXEMPT  
                 THIOLUX 80W    5 lb         0.8 dry oz              EXEMPT
               dinocap                                   0.5 lb
                 KARATHANE WD   2.5 lb       0.4 dry oz                21 
REMARKS: Use when foliage first develops or at first sign of disease. Apply as 
needed at 7-14 and 14-21-day intervals respectively until berries are full 
size.  Susceptible muscadine varieties are most likely to show significant 
yield response.  Continuous use of benomyl may cause resistance to the 
fungicide. Tank mix with other fungicides for control of other diseases as 
needed.  Check compatibility. The addition of a spreader sticker may improve 
coverage with dinocap.  Sulfur injury may occur with Concord and other labrusca 
types.
               GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Black rot &     cupric hydroxide                         1.44 lb
downy mildew      KOCIDE 606 or  2.66 pts   0.4 fl oz                   0
                  KOCIDE 101     2 lb       0.32 dry oz                 0
                     plus
                hydrated lime    2-6 lb     0.96 dry oz  2-6 lb         0

REMARKS: Caution: slight to severe foliage injury may occur on copper-sensitive 
varieties such as Concord, Delaware, Niagara, Rosette and others.  Higher the 
lime, lower the probability of foliage injury.  Use above combination in last 
1 or 2 summer applications following earlier application of other fungicide(s). 
                basic copper sulfate                     1.06 lb       
                  BASICOP 53%   2 lb        0.32 dry oz                14

REMARKS: Caution: slight to severe injury may occur.  Evaluate on limited basis 
before using on large scale.  Make applications at first leaf, before bloom, 
after bloom (NOT DURING BLOOM), and at 2 wk intervals up to 2 wks of harvest. 
               GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Dead arm        benomyl                                 0.75 lb
                  BENLATE 50W    1.5 lb     0.24 oz                    7
                
REMARKS:  Where dead arm is severe applications of benomyl immediately after 
pruning will reduce incidence of the disease.  Use a regular fungicide schedule 
during the growing season.  For mechanically harvested muscadines, use spur 
renewal system when pruning.  Avoid broken canes and spurs that maintain an 
open wound where infections will start.

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Isariopsis      See remarks.    See        See          See          See
leaf blight                     remarks.   remarks.     remarks.     remarks.
REMARKS: Use regular fungicide schedule developed from above information.  
Cause and control of this problem is not well understood.
               GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Oak root rot
Armillaria      methyl bromide                             400-870     24 MO
mellea &         BROM-O-GAS 98
Clitocybe        TERR-O-GAS 98  400-870 LB   N/A  
tabescens

REMARKS:  To obtain maximum control soil must be dry to depth of root system 
(4-5 ft in most SC soils).  Rip soil with subsoilers before treatment. Place 
chisels 48-60 in. apart and inject at 24-30 in. deep.  Seal chisel channel at 
application.  Best if tarped.  Most likely time for dry conditions is in fall.  
When replanting infested sites best to pull tree, root scarify and treat 
immediately. May also be applied as a single tree site auger injected 
application.  Consult label. Limited tests in SC have indicated poor long term 
control to date.  Best if soil temperatures are 50 degrees F, preferably 60-90. 
Note: environmental conditions for oak root rot treatment are different than
for nematode control(soil moisture at optimum for seed germination).
                GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Nematodes:      1,3-dichloro-   Consult    See remarks.  N/A              N/A
ring, dagger    propene         label.
                  TELONE II
REMARKS: Preplant fumigation only.  May be applied as a strip or broadcast 
treatment. Broadcast is preferred. Rates vary with soil type, typically 33 
gal/ac in SC.  National data supports efficacy but local data lacking 
                GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Nematodes:    R fenamiphos      6.0 gal    Variable:     20 lb            45
ring, dagger      NEMACUR 3EC              see label.
 (CONT)

REMARKS: Apply postplant in split application 10 lb ai/ac (3.3 gal) in the 
spring after April 1 and before 45-day preharvest interval. Apply second 
application (10 lb ai/ac) in fall before Nov. 1. Apply as strip under tree 
canopy. May be tank mixed with herbicides.  Best results if rainfall (1/2 in +) 
or overhead irrigation occurs immediately after treatment. May take as much as 
three applications (15-18 mo) to bring high counts below threshold (50/100 cc). 
Best to use as preventative where nematode problems are expected.

R - Some of all uses of this product are restricted.
               GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Crown gall      bacterial inoculant                         N/A        N/A
Agrobacterium     GALLTROL    See remarks   see remarks
tumefaciens

REMARKS: Usually applied as a dip to bare rooted plants.  One container can 
treat as many as 10,000 root pieces . This biological control bacterium has not 
controlled all strains of the crown gall bacterium found in SC but has reduced 
the incidence of crown gall in peaches.  Local data on grapes is not available.
The causal bacteria persist in the soil.  Wounds are required for infection so 
every effort should be made to avoid wounding roots and lower stem.  Allow 
roots to heal prior to planting.  Where crown gall is a problem avoid 
cultivation.  Use herbicides for weed control to avoid cultivation. 
                GRAPE (BUNCH OR MUSCADINE) DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                     MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC  PRODUCT/GAL   AI/AC       TO HARVEST
______________________________________________________________________________
Pierces         See Remarks     ---          ---         ---           ---
Disease

REMARKS: Pierces Disease is caused by Xylem limited bacteria.  The bacteria are
vectored from wild weed hosts of the bacterium to grapes by leaf hoppers.
Control strategies include planting resistant or tolerant varieties and good
orchard floor management.  The purpose of good orchard floor management is to
avoid presence of alternate or wild weed hosts of the bacteria or an 
environment favorable for leaf hopper vectors.  Generally, insecticide sprays
for leaf hopper vectors have not been considered practical.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEACH WEED CONTROL                              
-DOC-
                              PEACH WEED CONTROL
                    J. D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE        RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED            TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  dalapon                                             Apply when grass is 4-6 
    DOWPON M                                          in high.  Make a second
    or BASFAPON                                       application 2 wk later.
REMARKS:  Spot treatment.  Use 1 lb in 20 gal water and apply the solution to 
wet the grass.  Do not permit dalapon to accumulate on soil as a result of 
runoff from weeds.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  napropamide               4 lb                      Apply in fall or early 
    DEVRINOL                                          spring before weeds 
                                                      emerge.
REMARKS:  Incorporate or irrigate if no rainfall should occur within 24 hr of 
treatment.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEACH WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE        RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED            TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  napropamide                4 lb                     Apply when grass and
    DEVRINOL                                          weeds are tender and
      +                       +                       1-6 in high for best
R paraquat                                            results.
    GRAMOXONE SUPER         1/2-1 lb
REMARKS:  Incorporate or irrigate if no rainfall should occur within 24 hr of 
treatment.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  napropamide               4 lb                      Apply in fall through 
    DEVRINOL                                          spring before weed
       +                      +                       emergence.  Do not apply
  diuron                    1 lb                      to frozen ground.
    KARMEX    
REMARKS:  Incorporate or irrigate if no rainfall should occur within 24 hr of 
treatment.  Use only under trees established in the orchard for at least 2 yr.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
PEACH WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE        RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED            TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  simazine                  1.6-4 lb                  Apply after harvest or 
     PRINCEP                                          early spring before
                                                      blooming.
REMARKS:  Do not allow spray to come in contact with leaves or fruit.  Use 
lower rate on light soils and higher rate on heavy soils.  Use only on trees 1 
yr or older.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R  paraquat                 1/2-1 lb                  Apply with a nonionic 
     GRAMOXONE SUPER                                  surfactant to emerged
                                                      weeds.  Repeat applica-
                                                      tion as necessary to
                                                      control weeds.
REMARKS:  Do not let cattle graze on treated area.  Direct spray to avoid 
green tissue contact.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
PEACH WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE        RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED            TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  simazine                  1.6-4 lb                  Postemergence to exist-
    PRINCEP                                           ing weeds.
         +                      +
R paraquat                  0.5-1 lb
    GRAMOXONE SUPER
REMARKS:  Do not apply to trees less than 1 yr old.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  terbacil                  1.6-3.2 lb                Make a single applica-
    SINBAR                                            tion in spring before
                                                      weeds emerge or during
                                                      early seedling stage.
                                                      Apply as a direct spray 
                                                      on a band or broadcast.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
REMARKS:  Apply lower rates for light soils and higher rates for clay loam 
soils.  Do not use on loamy sand or gravelly soils and do not apply to eroded 
areas where tree roots are exposed.  Do not allow drift to come in contact 
with fruit and do not spray foliage.  Use only where peaches have been 
established in orchards for 3 yr.  Treated land should not be replanted to any 
other crop for 2 yr following last application.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEACH WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE        RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED            TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  diuron                    1.6-4 lb                  Apply in spring or fall
    KARMEX                                            after harvest.
REMARKS:  Use only under trees established at least 3 yr.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  diuron                    0.8-1.6 lb                Apply to weeds up to 3 
    KARMEX                                            in tall.
       +                       +
  terbacil                  0.8-1.6 lb
    SINBAR
REMARKS:  Use only under trees established in orchard for at least 2 yr.  This 
combination provides a longer period of weed control and controls a broader 
weed spectrum than either component herbicide used alone.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  dichlobenil               4-6 lb                    Early spring or after
    CASORON 50W                                       cultivation.  Can be 
    CASORON 4G                                        applied later if lightly
                                                      mixed into soil.
REMARKS:  Apply as directed spray to orchard floor.  Do not graze livestock in 
treated areas.  Do not spray fruit or foliage of bearing trees.  4-G formula-
tion is far superior to the wettable powder in normal surface applications.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEACH WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE        RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED            TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  glyphosate                1-5 lb                    Follow label for time of 
    ROUNDUP                                           application.
    (4 lb/gal)
REMARKS:  Apply with a shielded boom sprayer or shielded wiper applicator 
which prevents any contact of this product with foliage or bark of trees.  
Apply no later than 90 days after first bloom.  Remove suckers and low hanging 
limbs at least 10 days before application.  Several tank mixes have been 
approved for tree crops for residual control.  When tank mixing with residual 
herbicide, add an agriculturally approved nonionic surfactant.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  oryzalin                  2-4 lb                    Apply before annual 
    SURFLAN                                           weeds emerge in spring.
REMARKS:  Use around nonbearing and bearing trees.  Use lower rate for short-
term control and higher rate for long-term control.  Do not apply to newly 
transplanted trees until soil has settled and no cracks are present.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEACH WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE        RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED            TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  oryzalin                  2-4 lb                    Apply in spring before
    SURFLAN                                           annual weeds emerge.
       +                      +
  simazine                  2-4 lb
    PRINCEP
REMARKS:  Use in orchards established for 1 yr or more.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  norflurazon               2-4 lb                    Apply before weeds
     SOLICAM                                          emerge.
REMARKS:  The soil surface must be free of weeds and relatively free of plant 
residues.  Must be established at least 6 mo in the field before use.  Soil 
should be firm and free of depressions in which rain or irrigation water could 
accumulate.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEACH WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE        RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED            TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  norflurazon               2-3 lb                    Apply before weeds
     SOLICAM                                          emerge.
        +                     +
  simazine                  1-2 lb
     PRINCEP
REMARKS:  Apply as a tank mix in 20-100 gal water/ac.  Avoid contact with 
fruit, foliage, or stems.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  norflurazon               1.4-3 lb                  Apply before weeds
     SOLICAM                                          emerge.
        +                      +
  diuron                    0.8-1.6 lb
     KARMEX
REMARKS:  Apply as a tank mix in 20-100 gal water/ac.  Avoid contact with 
fruit, foliage, or stems.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEACH WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE        RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED            TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  norflurazon               2-4 lb                    Apply when adequate 
     SOLICAM                                          rainfall or irrigation
       +                       +                      is available for proper
  oryzalin                  2-4 lb                    placement in the soil.
     SURFLAN  
       +                       +
R paraquat                  0.5-1 lb
    GRAMOXONE SUPER
REMARKS:  Add an agriculturally approved nonionic surfactant.  Do not spray 
under windy conditions and use a shield for young trees.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
PEACH WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE        RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED            TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  fluazifop-butyl           0.5 lb                    Apply to actively 
     FUSILADE 4E                                      growing grasses.  Apply 
                                                      to perennial johnson-
                                                      grass before it exceeds
                                                      12-18 in tall and before
                                                      boot stage.  Apply to 
                                                      perennial bermudagrass 
                                                      before it exceeds 3 in 
                                                      tall or has 4-8 in 
                                                      runners.  Apply to 
                                                      annual grasses before 
                                                      they reach 2-8 in tall 
                                                      and before tillering 
                                                      and/or heading.
REMARKS:  Thorough spray coverage is required.  Use only on nonbearing plants, 
as for site preparation before transplanting.  Apply as a directed spray to 
prevent contact with plant foliage.  Do not tank mix with other herbicides.  
Add 1 qt crop oil concentrate or 1/2 pt nonionic surfactant/25 gal water.  Use 
25 gal dilute spray/ac treated with 30-60 psi pressure.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEACH WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE        RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED            TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  sethoxydim                0.19-0.48 lb              Apply to actively 
     POAST 1.53E                                      growing grasses.  Apply 
                                                      to grasses at sizes
                                                      labeled.
REMARKS:  Always add 2 pt/ac of oil concentrate.  Follow water volume and 
spray pressure recommendations on label.  Do not apply to nonbearing peaches 
within 1 yr of harvest.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  oxyfluorfen              .50-2.0                    Apply only to dormant
    GOAL 1.6 E                                        peaches.  Do not apply
                                                      after buds start to
                                                      swell or when foliage or 
                                                      fruit are present.
REMARKS:  Goal 1.6 E herbicide or any of the tank mix combinations recommended 
on the label should be applied to only healthy growing trees.  When tank 
mixing, always read all individual manufacturer's labels.  In interpreting all 
labels for the tank mixture, the most restrictive situation must apply.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEACH WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                              
PESTICIDE        RATE AI/AC ACTUALLY SPRAYED            TIME OF APPLICATION
______________________________________________________________________________
  metolachlor               Follow label.             
    DUAL 8 E
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
  pronamide                 1-4                       Apply during cool wet
    KERB 50-W                                         season for best results.
REMARKS:  Excellent for control of seedling and established cool-season 
grasses.  Rainfall or overhead irrigation is essential following the 
application for effective weed control.
______________________________________________________________________________
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEACH GROWTH REGULATORS                            
-DOC-
                            PEACH GROWTH REGULATORS
                   John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                 RATE                        TIME OF APPLICATION
________________________________________________________________________________
  ALAR                 3-4 lb Alar 85/ac              From early to late pit
                                                      hardening.
REMARKS:  Shortens ripening periods.  Decreases length of harvest period.  
Keep close check on fruit maturity.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  glyphosate           .1875 lb                       1-2 wk after full 
    ROUNDUP            (6 fluid oz)                   greenup of bahiagrass or
    (4 lb/gal)                                        after the bahiagrass has 
                                                      been mowed to a height 
                                                      of 3-4 in. 
REMARKS:  Repeat treatments may be necessary to control weeds regenerating 
from underground parts or seed.  Unless otherwise specified, the combined 
total of all treatments must not exceed 8 qt/A of this product/yr.
________________________________________________________________________________ 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PECAN WEED CONTROL                              
-DOC-
                              PECAN WEED CONTROL
                    J. B. Aitken, Extension Horticulturist
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  terbacil              1.6-2.4      2.0-3.0 lb       Apply in spring before
    SINBAR 80W                                        weeds emerge or during
                                                      early seedling stage of
                                                      weed growth.
REMARKS:  Use only under trees established in the orchard at least 1 yr.  Do 
not graze livestock in treated orchards.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  terbacil              0.96-1.2     1.2-1.5 lb       Apply in spring before
    SINBAR 80W                                        weeds emerge or during 
       +                    +           +             the early seedling stage
  diuron                0.96-1.2     1.2-1.5 lb       of weed growth.
    KARMEX 80W
REMARKS:  Use only under trees established in the orchard at least 1 yr.  Do 
not graze livestock in treated orchards.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PECAN WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  oryzalin              2.0-4.0      2.0-4.0 qt       Apply premerge to weeds 
    SURFLAN A.S.                                      in spring.
REMARKS:  Use only on trees that will not bear fruit for at least 1 yr after 
treatment.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  diuron                1.6-3.2      2.0-4.0 lb       Apply in spring before
    KARMEX 80W                                        weeds emerge or 
                                                      cultivate cleanly in the
                                                      early spring and then
                                                      apply.
REMARKS:  Use only in groves in which trees have been established at least 3 
yr.  Do not graze livestock in treated orchards.  If vegetation is present, 
add surfactant to spray according to label.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PECAN WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  diuron                1.5-3.0      1.5-3.0 qt       Apply in spring or early
    DIREX 4L                                          summer.
    4 lb/gal
REMARKS:  Use only under trees established in orchard for at least 3 years.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  simazine              2.4-4.0      3.0-5.0 lb       Apply to bare ground in
    PRINCEP 80W                                       spring before weeds 
    or PRINCEP 4L       2.0-4.0      2.0-4.0 qt       emerge.
    or SIM-TROL 4L
REMARKS:  Do not apply to trees established less than 2 yr.  If vegetation is 
present, add a contact herbicide spray.  Do not allow animals to graze treated 
areas.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PECAN WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  simazine
    PRINCEP 80W         2.0-4.0      2.5-5.0 lb       Apply to bare ground in 
      or                                              spring before weeds
    PRINCEP 4L          2.0-4.0      2.0-4.0 qt       emerge.
      or
    SIM-TROL 4L         2.0-4.0      2.0-4.0 qt
      +
  oryzalin
       SURFLAN A.S.     2.0-4.0      2.0-4.0 qt
REMARKS:  Do not apply to trees established less than 2 years.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R paraquat              0.56-0.94    3.0-5.0 pt       Apply when weeds and
  GRAMOXONE SUPER                                     grasses are tender and
                                                      new growth is 1-6 in 
                                                      high.
REMARKS:  Add a nonionic surfactant at recommended rate.  Do not allow spray 
to contact green stems and leaves as injury may result.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PECAN WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  glyphosate            1.0-1.5      1.0-1.5 qt       Apply to actively 
     ROUNDUP            (annual grasses)              growing weeds.  Best
  4 lb/gal              2.0-3.0      2.0-3.0 qt       results are obtained
                        (johnsongrass)                when application is 
                        5.0          5.0 qt           made as weeds near
                        (bermudagrass)                seedhead formation.
REMARKS:  Trees must be established 2 yr before application and no application 
made within 1 yr of first harvest.  Do not allow spray to contact green stems 
and leaves.  Do not add surfactant.  Roundup may be tank mixed on pecans with 
the following residual herbicides:  Karmex 80W, Princep 4L, Princep 80W, 
Solicam 80WP, and Surflan A. S.  Consult individual product labels for proper 
rate.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PECAN WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  glyphosate            0.19         6.0 fl oz        Apply 1-2 wk after full
    ROUNDUP                                           greenup of bahiagrass or
    4 lb/gal                                          has been mowed to a 
                                                      uniform height of 3-4 
                                                      in.  Sequential applica-
                                                      tions may be made at ap-
                                                      proximately 45-day 
                                                      intervals to extend 
                                                      period of seedhead
                                                      suppression.  Apply no
                                                      more than two sequential
                                                      applications/yr.  As 
                                                      first sequential 
                                                      application, apply 4 fl
                                                      oz of product/ac.  As
                                                      second sequential, apply
                                                      2-4 fl oz of product/ac.
REMARKS:  BAHIAGRASS SEEDHEAD SUPRESSION:  Add nonionic surfactant at 0.5-1.0% 
of total spray volume of 10-25 gal/ac.  Use 0.5% concentration when using 
surfactants that contain at least 50% active ingredients or 1% concentration 
when using surfactants that contain less than 50% active ingredients.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PECAN WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  napropramide          4.0          8.0 lb           Apply in the fall 
    DEVRINOL 50WP                                     through early spring be-
                                                      fore weed emergence.  
                                                      May be applied to a 
                                                      newly planted and estab-
                                                      lished crop.
REMARKS:  If rainfall does not occur, the treatment must be shallow 
incorporated or irrigated with enough water to wet the soil to a depth of 2-4 
in.  Use as a directed spray; avoid contact with foliage and nuts.  Do not 
apply when nuts are on the ground.  Do not graze treated areas.  A contact 
herbicide may be added to control existing weeds. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PECAN WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  fluazlfop-butyl                                     Apply to actively 
     FUSILADE 2000      0.25-0.375   1.0-1.5 qt       growing grasses before
                                                      they exceed the recom-
                                                      mended growth stages on
                                                      label.  Repeat treat-
                                                      ments may be necessary
                                                      to provide season-long
                                                      control.
REMARKS:  Apply to nonbearing trees only.  Add 1 qt of crop oil/25 gal water.  
Apply as a directed spray to prevent contact of spray with foliage.  Do not 
apply to trees that will be harvested within 1 yr of application.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PECAN WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  norflurazon           3.0-4.0      3.75-5.0 lb      Apply in fall through 
    SOLICAM DF                                        spring before weed
                                                      emergence.
REMARKS:  May be used on bearing and nonbearing trees as well as newly set 
transplants.  Use a contact herbicide if vegetation present.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  norflurazon           3.0          3.75 lb          Apply in fall through
    SOLICAM DF                                        spring before weed
        +                                             emergence.
  simazine              2.0          2.5 lb
    PRINCEP 80W
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PECAN WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  norflurazon           3.0          3.75 lb          Apply as a directed 
    SOLICAM DF                                        spray to the soil
        +                                             surface before weeds
  diuron                0.8-1.6      1.0-2.0 lb       emerge.
    KARMEX 80W
    other diuron products
REMARKS:  Avoid contact with foliage or stems.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  norflurazon
    SOLICAM DF          3.0          3.75 lb          Apply when the weeds
       +                                              and grasses are 
  glyphosate                                          actively growing.
    ROUNDUP             1.0-2.0      1.0-2.0 qt
    4 lb/gal
REMARKS:  Apply this combination only once a year.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PECAN WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  norflurazon
    SOLICAM DF          3.0          3.75 lb          Apply when the weeds and
        +                                             grasses are succulent 
  simazine                                            and new growth is 1-6 in
    PRINCEP 80W         2.0          2.5 lb           tall.
    other simazine
    products
REMARKS:  Use a contact herbicide according to label if vegetation present. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PECAN WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  norflurazon 
    SOLICAM DF          3.0          3.75 lb          Apply when weeds are
        +                                             actively growing.
  simazine
    PRINCEP 80W         2.0          2.5 lb
    other simazine
    products
        +
  glyphosate
    ROUNDUP             1.0-5.0      1.0-5.0 qt
    4 lb/gal
 
REMARKS:  Avoid contact with fruit, foliage or stem.    
________________________________________________________________________________
PECAN WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE               LB/AI/AC     FORMULATION/     TIME OF APPLICATION
                                         AC
_____________________________________________________________________________
  sethoxydim            0.28-0.47    1.5-2.5 pts      Apply to actively 
    POAST               (annual grasses)              growing grasses before 
    1.5 lb/gal          0.47         2.5 pts          excessive tillering 
                        (perennial grasses)           and/or seedhead 
                                                      formation.
 
REMARKS:  Add 2 pints per acre of oil concentrate.  Apply to nonbearing trees 
only.  Do not apply to trees that will be harvested within one year of 
application. 
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PECAN DISEASE CONTROL                                              
-DOC-
                            PECAN DISEASE CONTROL                  
                   R. W. Miller, Extension Plant Pathologist

______________________________________________________________________________
INTRODUCTION:  Control of foliar diseases to prevent premature leaf drop and 
control of disease of shucks is necessary to have good annual production.  
Failure to do so will result in alternate year bearing and light nut meats.  To 
obtain this level of control requires regular spraying at 7 to 14 day intervals 
(depending on rate of growth)prior to pollination and 14 to 21 days after 
pollination. The diseases of pecans requiring regular sprays in general order 
of importance are:  scab, Fusicladium effusum; downy spot, Mycosphaerella 
caryigena; brown spot, Cercospora fusca; liver spot, Gnomonia caryae pv. 
pecanae; zonate leaf spot, Cristulariella pyramidallis; powdery mildew, 
Microsphaera alni; and fungal leaf scorch, cause unknown but is less severe 
where fungicides are used. Where scouting is carried out the interval between 
sprays can be adjusted based on relative resistance of the variety, presence 
and severity of disease and environment inhibitory or conducive to disease 
spread.  In some cases product/gal rate is not provided because it is a 
restricted use material.  These are marked with a capital R.  Several of the 
fungicides May not be applied after the protective shucks around the nut 
split.  This limitation is noted as SS under MIN DAYS TO HARVEST below. 
See Information card 118, Pecan Spray Schedule.
                         PECAN DISEASE CONTROL  (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                    MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC     TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Scab,           dodine                                    0.98 lb      SS
downy spot,       CYPREX 65W         1.5 lb    0.24 dry oz        (shuck split)
brown spot,     fentin hydroxide                          0.36 lb     
liver spot,     R DU-TER 30F         24 fl oz  --                      SS
fungal leaf     R SUPER-TIN 4L     8-12 fl oz  --                      SS
scorch          R TRIPLE TIN 4L    8-12 fl oz  --                      SS
                     
REMARKS: Do not use dodine on Moore, Shawnee, Barton or Van Deman varieties. 
Dodine will injure foliage of Schley. Do not graze livestock in treated groves 
except where benomyl and malathion are used. Do not use more than listed 
product per acre.  Do not use MBC fungicides, benomyl, and thiophanate-methyl 
continuously Because of development of resistant strains of fungi. Alternate 
with other fungicides in the spray program.  First three sprays are critical. 
do not apply more than 10 applications of fentin hydroxide per season.

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
                         PECAN DISEASE CONTROL  (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                    MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC     TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
scab            benomyl                                   0.5 lb
and others        BENLATE 50W        1 lb      0.08 dry oz             SS
(CONT)          thiophanate-methyl                        0.7 lb
                  TOPSIN-M 70W       1 lb      0.08 dry oz             SS 

REMARKS: Do not use dodine on Moore, Shawnee, Barton or Van Deman varieties. 
Dodine will injure foliage of Schley. Do not graze livestock in treated groves 
except where benomyl and malathion are used. Do not use more than listed 
product per acre.  Do not use MBC fungicides, benomyl, and thiophanate-methyl 
continuously Because of development of resistant strains of fungi. Alternate 
with other fungicides in the spray program.  First three sprays are critical. 
do not apply more than 10 applications of fentin hydroxide per season.
                            PECAN DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                    MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC     TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Scab           fenarimol                                  0.09 lb       30
and others       RUBIGAN EC   9-12 fl oz     0.06 fl oz
(CONT)         propiconazole                              0.18 lb       SS
                 ORBIT        4-6 fl oz      0.03 fl oz

REMARKS:  Do not mix Orbit with Cyprex or crop injury may result.  Always keep 
agitator going and use a clean tank when applying Orbit.  Do not exceed four 
applications per season.  Do not graze or use treated forage.  Do not use 
Rubigan on the Whichita variety.  Apply Rubigan from bud break through 1/2 inch 
long nuts.  Tank mix Rubigan with a nonsterol inhibiting fungicide and Orbit 
with fentin hydroxide before switching to protectant only fungicide.  Do not use 
more than listed product amount or number of applications per acre.  First 
three sprays are critical.
                         PECAN DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                    MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC     TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Powdery mildew  benomyl                                   0.5 lb
                  BENLATE 50W        1 lb      0.08 dry oz             SS
                thiophanate-methyl                        0.7 lb
                  TOPSIN-M 70W       1 lb      0.08 dry oz             SS 
                fenarimol                                 0.09 lb      
                  RUBIGAN EC   9-12 fl oz      0.06 fl oz              30
                sulfur                                    4-6 lb

REMARKS:Powdery mildew is not a major problem and specific control effort should 
only be required on susceptible varieties.  Dodine (Cyprex) and fentin 
hydroxide (Du-Ter, Super Tin, and others) will not give adequate control of 
powdery mildew. Benomyl or thiophanate-methyl will control powdery mildew. 
Applications may be continued until shucks split.  Fenarimol will provide 
control.  Generally the least expensive way to control  powdery mildew is to 
include sulfur as a tank mix. 
                         PECAN DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                    MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC     TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Nematodes       1,3-dichloro-   Consult    See remarks.  N/A              N/A
root-knot       propene         label.
                  TELONE II
REMARKS: Preplant fumigation only.  May be applied as a strip or broadcast 
treatment. Broadcast treatment is preferred. Rates vary with soil type, 
typically 33 gal/ac in South Carolina. Root-knot can severely stunt pecans in 
South Carolina.  Sampling areas intended for pecans is suggested.  Root-knot on 
pecans generally does not cause knots on the roots.  There is no post-plant 
nematicide available for pecans.  Preplant fumigation may be used but since 
pecans are such a long term crop It is best that infested sites be avoided. 
                         PECAN DISEASE CONTROL (CONT)

______________________________________________________________________________
                                                                    MIN DAYS
DISEASE         PESTICIDE     PRODUCT/AC   PRODUCT/GAL    AI/AC     TO HARVEST
_______________________________________________________________________________
Zonate leaf     benomyl                                   0.5 lb
spot              BENLATE 50W        1 lb      0.08 dry oz             SS
                thiophanate-methyl                        0.7 lb
                  TOPSIN-M 70W       1 lb      0.08 dry oz             SS 
                
REMARKS:  Zonate leaf spot is relatively rare in South Carolina.  Use of 
materials to control the disease should be based on scouting.  Preventive 
sprays are generally not required. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RASPBERRY WEED CONTROL                            
-DOC-
                            RASPBERRY WEED CONTROL
                   G. A. King, Jr., Extension Horticulturist
 
Many herbicides recommended for use on raspberries are wettable powders.  They 
go into suspension, not solution.  Therefore, constant agitation is required 
to keep them in suspension.  Mechanical agitation is better than hydraulic 
agitation.  Line and nozzle strainers should be at least 50 mesh.  Also, since 
wettable powders are abrasive, sprayers should be recalibrated frequently.
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC                TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
 
Established Raspberries:
  simazine                  2-4 lb                    Apply half in spring 
    PRINCEP 4G                                        before budbreak and half
                                                      in the fall.
REMARKS:  Use lowest rate on light soils.  Do not apply while fruit is 
present.  Controls annual weeds in established plantings.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
RASPBERRY WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC                TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
  diuron                    3-4 lb                    Apply in spring before
    KARMEX 80W                                        weeds emerge and before 
                                                      canes leaf out.
REMARKS:  Use lowest rate on light soils, and plants must be at least 1 yr 
old.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  oryzalin                  2-5 lb                    Apply to new plantings 
    SURFLAN 75W                                       after the soil settles,
                                                      to established plantings
                                                      in spring before weeds                                                      
                                                      emerge. 
REMARKS:  Use low rate for short-term control and high rate for long-term 
control. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
RASPBERRY WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC                TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
  dichlobenil               2-4 lb                    Apply in Jan.-March to
    CASORON 4G                                        cold, wet soil.
REMARKS:  Use the granular formulation only.  This material loses its 
effectiveness rapidly if exposed to dry, warm conditions.  Use lower rate on 
lighter soils.  Do not apply during new shoot emergence.  Use on plants 
established 1 yr or more.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  diphenamid                                          On new plantings apply
    ENIDE 50W               8-12 lb                   just after planting but
    ENIDE 90W               4.4-6.6 lb                before weeds germinate.
                                                      On established plantings
                                                      apply before weed 
                                                      emergence.
REMARKS:  Apply as a directed spray but do not apply within 60 days of harvest 
or use more than the recommended amount of material during the growing season.  
Use lowest rate on light soils; higher rate on heavier soils.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
RASPBERRY WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC                TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
  napropamide               4 lb                      Late fall or early 
    DEVRINOL 50WP                                     spring.
REMARKS:  Apply water within 24 hr to activate materials.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
RASPBERRY WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC                TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
  fluazifop-butyl           0.5 lb                    Apply to actively 
     FUSILADE 4E                                      growing grasses.  Appli-
                                                      cation to perennial 
                                                      johnsongrass should be
                                                      made before it exceeds 
                                                      12-18 in tall and before 
                                                      boot stage.  Application
                                                      to perennial 
                                                      bermudagrass should be
                                                      made before it exceeds 3
                                                      in tall or has 4-8 in
                                                      runners.  Apply to 
                                                      annual grasses before 
                                                      they reach 2-9 in tall 
                                                      and before tillering 
                                                      and/or heading.
REMARKS:  Thorough spray coverage is required.  Use only on nonbearing plants,
as for site preparation before transplanting.  Apply as a directed spray to 
prevent contact with plant foliage.  Do not tank mix with other herbicides.  
Add 1 qt crop oil concentrate or 1/2 pt nonionic surfactant/25 gal water.  Use 
25 gal dilute spray/ac treated with 30-60 psi pressure.
________________________________________________________________________________
RASPBERRY WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC                TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
  sethoxydim                0.5 lb                    Apply to actively 
     POAST                                            growing grasses.  Appli-
                                                      cation to perennial 
                                                      johnsongrass should be
                                                      made before it exceeds 
                                                      12-18 in tall and before 
                                                      boot stage.  Application
                                                      to pepennial bermuda-
                                                      grass should be made
                                                      before it exceeds 3
                                                      in tall or has 4-8 in
                                                      runners.  Apply to 
                                                      annual grasses before 
                                                      they reach 2-9 in tall
                                                      and before tillering 
                                                      and/or heading.
REMARKS:  Thorough spray coverage is required.  Use only on nonbearing plants,
as for site preparation before transplanting.  Apply as a directed spray to 
prevent contact with plant foliage.  Do not tank mix with other herbicides.  
Add 1 qt crop oil concentrate or 1/2 pt nonionic surfactant/25 gal water.  Use 
25 gal dilute spray/ac treated with 30-60 psi pressure.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
RASPBERRY WEED CONTROL
______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC                TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
______________________________________________________________________________
   norflurazon               2-4 lb                   Apply from fall to early
     SOLICAM DF                                       spring before weeds 
                                                      emerge.
REMARKS:  Use lowest rate on light soils.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
   diuron                    1.5-3 lb                 Apply preemergence to 
     DIREX 4L                                         weeds.
REMARKS:  Apply only to plants established 1 yr or more.  Do not use on sand, 
loamy sand or gravelly soils.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
   dinoseb                   1.25 lb                  Apply after harvest.
     FERMENTA GENERAL WEED KILLER
REMARKS:  Apply to lower 18 in of cane using 100-150 gal/A for control of 
annual grasses, weeds and unwanted fruit spurs.  Do not apply within 30 days 
of harvest or make more than 4 applications per season. 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STRAWBERRY WEED CONTROL                            
-DOC-
                            STRAWBERRY WEED CONTROL
                   G. A. King, Jr., Extension Horticulturist
 
Chemicals will give good control of annual weeds in both new and established 
strawberry plantings.  However, they must be used with caution.  It takes 
accurate application, timing, and amounts to get good weed control without 
injuring the plants or reducing their yields.  Chemicals that kill perennial 
weeds can damage strawberry plants.  Therefore, weeds such as quackgrass, 
sheep sorrel, field horsetail, Canada thistle, and others that grow from old 
roots and stems must be killed before strawberries are planted.  To maintain 
an income while bringing perennial weeds under control, other crops that are 
resistant to perennial weedkillers can be grown.  Glyphosate in corn and 2,4-
D, MCPA, dicamba, or glyphosate in cereal grain are a few of the ways in which 
weedkillers can be combined with crop production to get perennial weed 
control.  Perennial weeds also can be controlled by tillage alone.  Therefore, 
advantages and costs of chemical applications must be weighed against costs 
and time spent in a clean cultivation program.
STRAWBERRY WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC                TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
    DCPA                    6-9 lb                    Apply preemergence to 
      DACTHAL                                         weeds and repeat if
                                                      necessary.
REMARKS:  Do not use more than three times/yr.  Use lower rate on lighter 
soils.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  diphenamid                4-6 lb                    Apply after 
    DYMID or ENIDE                                    establishment (2-6 wk).
REMARKS:  Do not apply full application within 6 mo of each other.  Use lower 
rate on lighter soils; higher rate on heavy soils.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  napropamide               4 lb                      Apply in fall through
    DEVRINOL 50WP                                     early spring before weed
                                                      emergence.
REMARKS:  Do not apply to frozen ground or from bloom to harvest.  Treatment 
must be incorporated in or irrigated within 24 hr if no rainfall occurs.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
STRAWBERRY WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC                TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________
  chloroxuron               2-4 lb                    Apply over the top of 
    TENORAN or NOREX                                  established plants where 
                                                      broadleaf weeds are 2-3 
                                                      in high and grasses less 
                                                      than 1 in.
REMARKS:  Do not use within 60 days of harvest.  Do not use more than two 
applications/yr.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  alkanolamine salts        1-1.5 lb                  Apply to well-
    of 2,4-D                                          established plants after
       VERTAC FORMULA 40                              harvest but before 
                                                      runners form or during
                                                      dormant season.
REMARKS:  Do not apply during flower or fruit stages.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
STRAWBERRY WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC                TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________
  terbacil                  0.25-0.75 lb              Apply to mowed beds at
    SINBAR                                            renovation or in dormant
                                                      season from late fall to 
                                                      early spring.  Effective
                                                      results can be obtained 
                                                      by splitting applica-
                                                      tions, at renovation and
                                                      late fall (Nov).
REMARKS:  Plants must be established at least 6 mo.  Use lower rate on lighter 
soils; higher rate on heavy soils.  The lower the percent organic matter in a 
soil, the more precaution should be exercised.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
STRAWBERRY WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC                TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________
  methyl bromide            240 lb                    Apply before planting 
                                                      when soil temperatures
                                                      are above 50 degrees F.  
                                                      Fall applications, when 
                                                      soil moisture is high 
                                                      enough, generally give
                                                      best results.
REMARKS:  Soil moisture should be near field capacity.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
STRAWBERRY WEED CONTROL
_____________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE                   RATE AI/AC                TIME OF APPLICATION
                         ACTUALLY SPRAYED
_______________________________________________________________________________
  fluazifop-butyl           0.5 lb                    Apply to actively grow-
    FUSILADE 4E                                       ing grasses.  Applica-
                                                      tion to perennial
                                                      johnsongrass should be
                                                      made before it exceeds
                                                      12-18 in tall and before
                                                      boot stage.  Application
                                                      to perennial bermuda-
                                                      grass should be made be-
                                                      fore it exceeds 3 in 
                                                      tall or has 4-8 in 
                                                      runners.  Apply to 
                                                      annual grasses before 
                                                      they reach 2-8 in tall 
                                                      and before tillering 
                                                      and/or heading.
REMARKS:  Thorough spray coverage is required.  Use only on nonbearing plants, 
as for site preparation before transplanting.  Apply as a directed spray to 
prevent contact with plant foliage.  Do not tank mix with other herbicides.  
Add 1 qt crop oil concentrate or 1/2 pt nonionic surfactant/25 gal water.  Use 
25 gal dilute spray/ac treated with 30-60 psi pressure.
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  PRESTORAGE BIN TREATMENT - ALL COMMODITIES
______________________________________________________________________________
MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________
methoxychlor 50 WP            1 lb/2-3 gal water/1,000 sq ft            
methoxychlor 25 EC            1 qt/3 gal water/1,000 sq ft                      
malathion* 57 EC              1 pt/3 gal water/1,000 sq ft                      
pyrethrins 6% plus                                                            
piperonyl butoxide 60% EC     1 1/3 pt/3 gal water/1,000 sq ft 

REMARKS: Follow all label instructions in applying chemicals!  When recommended 
rates conflict with labeled rates, use the label rates that most closely 
approximate the recommendation.
FOR BIN AND EQUIPMENT TREATMENT ONLY!  Apply at least 2 wk before storage.  
Follow sanitation procedures above before treatment.  Spray walls, floor, and 
ceiling to point of runoff using a coarse spray.                              
*Premium grade malathion only.
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  PRESTORAGE BIN TREATMENT - ALL COMMODITIES (cont)
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos-methyl 43.2E                                                   
  RELDAN 4E                   1/2 pt/6.5 gal water/6,500 sq ft               

REMARKS: Apply finished spray to equipment, walls, and floor surfaces at the 
rate of 1 gal/1,000 sq ft before handling or storing grain.  Apply only after 
equipment and buildings have been thoroughly cleaned.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
Bacillus thuringiensis       2 oz/5 gal water at 1/2 gal/1,000 sq ft 
  DIPEL WP 

REMARKS:  Tobacco storage barns only.  Apply as coarse spray to floors and 
walls.  May use in combination with malathion.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  PRESTORAGE BIN TREATMENT - ALL COMMODITIES (cont)
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

chloropicrin                 2 lb/1,000 cu ft

REMARKS:  Apply directly into empty grain bin.  See Fumigant information.
_______________________________________________________________________________ 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator
_______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  GRAIN, ON-FARM STORAGE - ALL PESTS, STORED GRAIN, INSECTS AND MITES
______________________________________________________________________________
MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

NOTE:  Includes barley, corn, oats, rye, sorghum, and wheat but NOT SOYBEANS 
       unless specifically mentioned.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fumigants - See information on Fumigants page 317064-317066 and the 
            Safety Section pages 317056-317062.

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM: GRAIN, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont) ALL PESTS, STORED GRAIN, INSECTS, MITES
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________
  malathion 1% dust           60 lb dust/1,000 bu grain (Note: dusts may 
                              cause downgrading.)

REMARKS:  All dusts must be formulated on wheat flour only.  Apply as label 
directs at 6-in levels during storage or as it goes into storage areas.  After 
bin is filled, treat surface thoroughly.  Use as a protective or preventive 
treatment.  Grains should be clean and dry (12% moisture or less).
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  aeration                    -

REMARKS:  When stored grain or soybeans are properly dried and cooled to 
temperatures below 60oF, insect activity and reproduction cease.  See the 
section, "Managing Insects in Stored Grain with Aeration," for information.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM: GRAIN, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont) ALL PESTS, STORED GRAIN, INSECTS, MITES
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

  malathion* 57% EC           1 pt to 2-5 gal water/1,000 bu grain
  
REMARKS:  Sprays should be applied as coarse spray.  The best control will be 
achieved if grain is treated as it is going into storage so that even distri-
bution throughout grain mass will result.

*Premium grade malathion only.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM: GRAIN, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont) ALL PESTS, STORED GRAIN, INSECTS, MITES
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

  chlopyrifos-methyl 43.2%    Barley: 9.2 oz/1-5 gal/1,000 bu
    RELDAN 4E                 Oats: 6.2 oz/1-5 gal/1,000 bu
                              Rice: 8.6 oz/1-5 gal/1,000 bu
                              Sorghum (milo): 10.7 oz/1.5 gal/1,000 bu
                              Wheat: 11.5 oz/1-5 gal/1,000 bu

REMARKS:  Do not use on stored grains other than those listed above.  Dilute 
Reldan 4E with WATER OR FOOD-GRADE MINERAL OILS and apply as coarse spray to 
moving grain stream as it is being loaded into bin.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  GRAIN, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont) INDIAN MEAL MOTH AND ALMOND MOTH
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

  Bacillus thuringiensis      1/10 lb/1 gal water
    DIPEL WP

REMARKS:  Dipel must be constantly agitated.  Apply to top 4-in surface layer 
of grain in the bin.  Use sprinkler can or sprayer to apply dosage at rate of 
2/3 pt of mixture/bu in grain stream as last (top) 4-in layer is augered into 
bin, OR sprinkle dosage onto surface of grain and mix thoroughly with scoop or 
rake to depth of 4 in.  Treatment controls moth larvae only.  Dipel may be 
mixed with malathion EC.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  GRAIN, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont) SHELLED CORN AND GRAIN SORGHUM ONLY
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

  pirimiphos-methyl           8.6 to 11.5 oz/3-5 gal water/1,000 bu
    ACTELLIC 5E

REMARKS:  PESTICIDE CONCENTRATION MAY NOT EXCEED 8 PPM IN TREATED GRAIN!
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  GRAIN, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont)  TOPDRESSING UNTREATED GRAIN ONLY!
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

Mix RELDAN 4E concentrate     3.0 oz for wheat;
with 2 gallons of water       2.8 oz for sorghum;
as follows:                   2.3 oz for rice;
                              1.6 oz for oats;
                              2.4 oz for barley

Mix ACTELLIC 5E concentrate   3.0 oz for corn
with 2 gallons of water       3.0 oz for sorghum
as follows:

REMARKS: Apply as split application by applying 1/2 of the solution to top and 
rake in to depth of 4 inches.  Apply the remaining 1/2 to the raked surface.
PESTICIDE CONCENTRATION MAY NOT EXCEED 6.0 PPM IN TREATED GRAIN.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  GRAIN, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont) INDIAN MEAL MOTH AND ALMOND MOTH
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

  Bacillus thuringiensis      1/10 lb/1 gal water
    DIPEL WP

REMARKS:  Dipel must be constantly agitated.  Apply to top 4-in surface layer 
of grain in the bin.  Use sprinkler can or sprayer to apply dosage at rate of 
2/3 pt of mixture/bu in grain stream as last (top) 4-in layer is augered in 
bin, OR sprinkle dosage onto surface of grain and mix thoroughly with scoop or 
rake to depth of 4-in.  Treatment controls moth larvae only.  Dipel may be 
mixed with malathion EC.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  GRAIN, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont) INDIAN MEAL MOTH AND ALMOND MOTH
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________
  dipel dust                  4 lb/500 sq ft
    TOP-SIDE DIPEL            surface area

REMARKS:  For top dressing/surface treatment.  Apply evenly over surface area 
and mix thoroughly into top 2 to 4-in layer.  Same limitations as the WP
formulation.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  dichlorvos resin strip      1 strip/1,000 cu ft of storage area
    DDVP, VAPONA

REMARKS:  Hang throughout storage area over binned grain.  Normally effective 
for 3-4 mo.  Strips should be in place before moths begin to emerge.  Air 
storage area thoroughly before entering.
______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  PEANUTS, ON-FARM STORAGE (unshelled)  MOTH AND BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________
  Storage area treatment      See prestorage bin treatment.

REMARKS:  See prestorage bin treatment.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  malathion* 57% EC           2 1/2 pt/5 gal water/15 tons of peanuts

REMARKS:  Sprays should be applied as coarse spray.  The best control will be 
achieved if grain is treated as it is going into storage so that even distri-
bution throughout peanuts mass will result.

*Premium grade malathion only.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  PEANUTS, ON-FARM STORAGE (unshelled)  MOTH AND BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________
  malathion* 25 WP            1 3/4 lb/2 gal water/1,000 sq ft surface

REMARKS: Level surface of peanuts.  Apply immediately after bin is filled.  
Apply again at 2-mo intervals thereafter to prevent reinfestation.

R methyl bromide              1-2 lb/1,000 cu ft/24 hr at 60% or above;
                              aerate after fumigation.

REMARKS:  Same as for grain.  Maximum three applications.  
NOTE:  Methyl bromide should not be used on peanuts to be used for seed.  See 
Fumigant information on CUFAN page 317064.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  PEANUTS, ON-FARM STORAGE (unshelled)  MOTH AND BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

R aluminum or magnesium       125 tablets or 165-200 pellets/1,000 cu ft
    phosphide
      PHOSTOXIN
      DETIA GAS EX-B          3-6 bags/1,000 cu ft

REMARKS:  Applied to Phostoxin and Detia Gas Ex-B same as for grain.  See 
Fumigant information on CUFAN page 317064 and 317066.
______________________________________________________________________________

*Premium grade malathion only.
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  PEANUTS, ON-FARM STORAGE (unshelled) (cont) FLYING MOTHS
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

  20% dichlorvos              0.5 gm/1,000 cu ft/day
    DDVP, VAPONA

REMARKS:  Pressurized aerosol cylinder.  Follow labeled instructions and 
precautions.
______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL                         
-DOC-

                         STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  SOYBEANS, ON-FARM STORAGE     SANITATION: GENERAL
______________________________________________________________________________

The pests found in stored soybeans are the same pests which attack stored 
grains.  These pests are only found infesting stored soybeans when the storage 
area and/or the soybeans are not adequately cleaned.  The pests are found only 
when grain residues are allowed to remain in and around the storage area or 
when small quantities of grain are mixed in with the harvested beans.  
Adequate sanitation of the storage areas, handling equipment, and soybeans 
will prevent infestation and damage in stored soybeans.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  SOYBEANS, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont)  MOTH AND BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

  (Prestorage area treatment) Same as for grain.
  Bacillus thuringiensis      (WP and Dust)

R aluminum or magnesium
    phosphide

REMARKS:  Same as for grain.  Dipel and aluminum or magnesium phosphide are 
the only chemicals which can be legally applied to stored soybeans.  Dipel 
controls moth larvae only.  Follow all precautions on the labels.  See 
Fumigant section on CUFAN page 317064.
______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  TOBACCO, ON-FARM STORAGE           GENERAL
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

Eliminate sources of infestation.  Failure to clean up the packhouse after the 
grading season is over is often responsible for trouble.  In some areas 
tobacco moth infestation in tobacco packhouse may result from moths that have 
developed in favorable breeding places other than the farm packhouse.  Pack- 
houses should be kept in good condition and screened to prevent moths from 
readily entering or leaving the building.

Practice packhouse sanitation.  Dispose of scrap tobacco as fast as it 
accumulates.  Remove and destroy all tobacco trash.  Do not store sticks in 
packhouse.  When possible clean before cold weather so larvae will be removed 
before they crawl into cracks and crevices to spend the winter.
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  TOBACCO, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont)          GENERAL
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

Protect tobacco.  Do not leave tobacco in curing barns longer than necessary. 
Covering bulks of tobacco with cloth gives a little protection, but cloths 
should be removed at 4-day intervals and treated to destroy any eggs laid on 
them.  Beating cloth helps.  Exposure to hot sunlight or boiling will destroy 
most of the eggs.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  TOBACCO, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont)  MOTH AND BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

R methyl bromide              1.5-2 lb1,000 cu ft

REMARKS:  Place tobacco under an airtight plastic container.  Fumigate at 
recommended rate for a minimum of 24 hr at 70oF.  Use caution in removing 
cover at end of this time limit.  Allow it to air out for a minimum of 48 hr 
before handling.  Note: It is not normally practical to fumigate tobacco on 
farm.  On-farm fumigation should be done only if tobacco is already infested 
and is going to be stored for several weeks.  Even then it is best to have a 
professional fumigator to do the job.  See Fumigant section on page 317064.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

PROBLEM:  TOBACCO, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont)  MOTH AND BEETLE
______________________________________________________________________________
MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________
R aluminum or magnesium       20-30 tablets or 100-165 pellets/1,000 cu ft
    phosphide
      PHOSTOXIN

      DETIA GAS EX-B          2 bags/1,000 cu ft

REMARKS:  Effectiveness of aluminum or magnesium phosphide fumigation depends 
on tightness of bin or storage area.  OBSERVE ALL INSTRUCTIONS AND PRECAUTIONS 
ON LABEL.  See Fumigant section on CUFAN page 317064-317066.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Heat treatment              140oF

REMARKS:  Hang in barn for a few hours.  Caution:  Tobacco must have already
been thoroughly dried at temperature below 100oF or color will change and will 
result in decreased price.
______________________________________________________________________________
R -Some or all uses of this product may be restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  TOBACCO, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont)  TOBACCO MOTH
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

  Bacillus thuringiensis      8 tbsp/gal water
    DIPEL WP

REMARKS:  Apply as a fine mist.  Spray leaves in layers as tobacco is being 
sheeted, resheeted, or placed in pile for storage.  Good coverage is 
essential.  AVOID EXCESSIVE MOISTURE!
_______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  TOBACCO, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont)  EXPOSED AND FLYING INSECTS
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

  dichlorvos resin strip      1/1,000 cu ft of storage area
    DDVP, VAPONA

REMARKS:  Same as for grain.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  20% dichlorvos              0.5 gm/1,000 cu ft/day
    DDVP, VAPONA

REMARKS:  Pressurized aerosol cylinder.  Follow all instructions and 
precautions on label.
_______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  FUMIGANTS                GENERAL
______________________________________________________________________________
     Fumigation is almost always necessary in grain held over for long 
periods.  Storage should be checked periodically for "hot spots" which may be 
an indication of insect activity.  Such spots are best located by probing in 
several locations.

     Generally, three types of insects may be found in stored grain: 
(1) surface feeders, such as the grain and meal moths, (2) bran bugs, mites, 
and lice which feed mainly on broken kernels and flour, and (3) insects which 
live inside the kernels, such as the grain weevils, lesser grain borers, and 
angoumois grain moths.  The latter three are the most difficult to control.

    Fumigants found on the market will vary somewhat in composition.  Usually, 
however, they follow a basic formula.  Increase the dosage for high moisture 
grain, loose bins, or where weevil, lesser grain borers, or dermestid beetles 
are involved.    
    Fumigants are quite toxic and must be used with extreme care and STRICTLY 
ACCORDING TO LABEL DIRECTIONS!  Many will be labeled only for application by 
licensed and skilled fumigating technicians.

IMPORTANT PROCEDURES FOR ALL FUMIGANTS:

*  Fumigate when the air temperature is between 60o and 70oF, preferably after
   the grain temperature has cooled down to about 70o.  Below or above this 
   temperature range fumigants are much less effective.  High air or grain 
   temperature causes the fumigant to volatilize too rapidly.
*  Fumigate on a calm day or when wind velocities are less than 15 miles/hr.
*  Deep storage - introduce a part of the fumigant half-way down in the grain 
   columns.  Pipes may be inserted at various points in the grain for this 
   purpose.
*  Flat storage - increase the dosage and, if at all possible, cover the grain
   to confine the fumigant.
Do not breathe the fumigant vapors.  Use an approved gas mask with a canister 
suitable for organic vapors listed in Fumigant section beginning on CUFAN page 
number 317064

NOTE:  Grain that has been fumigated may safely be used as livestock feed 7 
days after application.  Aeration and stirring of the grain will reduce the 
waiting period to 4 or 5 days after application.  Lower temperatures and 
higher moisture contents will delay evaporation process unless thoroughly 
aerated. 
______________________________________________________________________________ 


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

PROBLEM:  GRAINS, ON-FARM STORAGE     ALL INSECTS AND MITE PESTS
______________________________________________________________________________
MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________
R methyl bromide              2 lb/1,000 cu ft

REMARKS:  In bags in warehouse:  Space fumigation 24 hr at 60oF or above.  In 
perforated steel crib bins:  Cover crib with gas-tight tarpaulin 24 hr at 60oF 
or above.  Aerate for 24 hr after treatment with methyl bromide.  
NOTE: Methyl bromide should not be used on grain to be used for seed!

R aluminum or magnesium 
    phosphide (generates phosphine gas)

REMARKS:  UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES shall aluminum or magnesium phosphide or 
phosphide residues come in contact with processed food or animals' feed.
______________________________________________________________________________
R -Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  GRAINS, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont)     ALL INSECTS AND MITE PESTS
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________
R aluminum or magnesium (cont)

    PHOSTOXIN                 150 tablets or 300 pellets/1,000 bu
                              3 tablets or 10 pellets/ton.  See label for time
                              of exposure and aeration.

REMARKS:  Space tablets or pellets uniformly into grain stream as it goes into 
storage or inject into grain already stored with a probe.  Keep tablets and 
pellets away from liquid or water as this causes an immediate release of gas.  
Wear protective gloves when handling.  Keep gas mask with canister approved 
for phosphine gas available when handling.  Follow all instructions and 
precautions on label.
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  GRAINS, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont)     ALL INSECTS AND MITE PESTS
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

    DETIA GAS EX-B            6-10 bags/1,000 bu.  See label for time of 
                              exposure and aeration.

REMARKS:  Add bags to grain stream as silos or bins are filled.  Filling must 
be continuous.  Determine addition sequence on a bags-per-minute basis to 
ensure even distribution.  Keep an accurate count as removal of all bags is 
required when grain is removed.  Removal of bags can be accomplished by 
transfer of grain over a screen or scalperator.  Follow all instructions and 
precautions on the label.
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  GRAINS, ON-FARM STORAGE (cont)     ALL INSECTS AND MITE PESTS
______________________________________________________________________________

NOTE: When using a phosphine gas generating material, the following 
preparations are minimum requirements;
* Seal area or structure as gas-tight as possible.
* Post "Danger" signs.  Signs should include date and type of treatment and 
  who to contact in case of emergency.
* Be certain first-aid information and proper safety equipment (such as gas 
  mask with canister approved for phosphine gas) are at site during treatment.
* Be certain all adjoining facilities are evacuated or otherwise protected.
* Be certain all operators have been properly trained and have read and under-
  stood labeling.
R Liquid fumigants.  See information on liquid fumigants in this section and 
  in Fumigant section beginning on CUFAN page 317064.
______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL                         
-DOC-
                         STORED PRODUCTS PEST CONTROL
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

PROBLEM:  COMMERCIAL GRAIN STORAGE
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________
  malathion*                  Same as for grain in on-farm storage

REMARKS:  Commercially stored products are attacked by the same pests that 
attack products in on-farm storage.  Again using proper sanitation and 
prestorage facility treatment (as recommended for farm treatment areas) is 
essential to adequately control these pests.  Also it is advisable to fumigate 
all grain after loading.  Make regular periodic inspections to determine the 
condition of grain and degree of insect infestations.  Turn grain to maintain 
quality.  Turning will decrease likelihood of insect infestation.  
NOTE: Due to hazards associated with their use, HCN and carbon disulfide are 
not recommended.
*Premium grade malathion only.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  COMMERCIAL GRAIN STORAGE (cont)
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

R methyl bromide plus         2-3 lb/1,000 cu ft min. 24-hr treatment
  chloropicrin

REMARKS:  Must be force distribution or recirculated.  Can be applied through 
a tube from cans or bulk containers to surface of grain enclosed in poly- 
ethylene tarps.  Observe all precautions on the label.  Use a gas mask with an 
approved (black) canister.  Provide ample ventilation and use caution when 
removing tarps.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________

PROBLEM:  COMMERCIAL GRAIN STORAGE (cont)
______________________________________________________________________________

MATERIAL                      RATE                                          
______________________________________________________________________________

R aluminum or magnesium       Same as for on-farm storage
  phosphide

REMARKS:  Under no conditions shall any processed food or animal feed come 
into contact with aluminum or magnesium phosphide or their residues.
______________________________________________________________________________

R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SEED TREATMENT                                  
-DOC-
                                 SEED TREATMENT 
           P.M. Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator 
 
FIELD AND GARDEN SEEDS (GENERAL)
_______________________________________________________________________________
INSECTS           MATERIAL         FORMULATION           RATE 
_______________________________________________________________________________
Moth and         malathion         See footnote.*        2 oz ai/bu          
beetle           ______________________________________________________________
                 malathion         1% dust               6 lb 1% D/100 bu
                 ______________________________________________________________
                 malathion         57% EC                8 oz 57% EC/1-2.5 gal
                                                         water/500 bu
                 Reduce rates proportionally for smaller amounts of seed.
                 ______________________________________________________________
                 malathion         82% EC                5 oz 82% EC/1-2.5 gal 
                                                         water/500 bu
                 ______________________________________________________________ 
Moth larvae      dipel             dust                  30 lb/100 bu       
only               TOP-SIDE DIPEL 
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                 SEED TREATMENT 
           P.M. Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator 
_______________________________________________________________________________

SEEDS BAGGED IN WAREHOUSE AND SEEDS IN BULK
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTS          MATERIAL          FORMULATION            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

Moth and         See Stored Product section   NOTE:  Treated seed intended for 
beetle           planting should not be used for food, feed, or oil.  Observe
                 all label instructions and precautions.
_______________________________________________________________________________
                                 SEED TREATMENT 
           P.M. Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator 
_______________________________________________________________________________

SMALL GRAINS (BARLEY, OATS, RYE, WHEAT)
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECTS          MATERIAL          FORMULATION            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Moth and         malathion          *                     2 oz ai/bu      
beetle           ______________________________________________________________ 
                 lindane            *                     2 oz ai/bu 
                 _____________________________________________________________
                 methoxychlor       *                     2 oz ai/bu
                 _____________________________________________________________
                 diazinon           *                     2 oz ai/bu
                 Planter box treatment only.
                 _____________________________________________________________ 
                 heptachlor        DRINOX H-34C           1 1/4-2 1/4 oz/ai/bu
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
*Active ingredient as part of formulated product. 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SMALL QUANTITIES OF SEED OR GRAIN STORED FOR HOME USE             
-DOC-
             SMALL QUANTITIES OF SEED OR GRAIN STORED FOR HOME USE
          P. Mac Horton, Extension Entomologist, Chemical Coordinator

     Small quantities of seed or grain may be treated for insects by placing 
in a plastic bag or glass jar and putting into a home freezer for 4-5 days.  
They can be left in the freezer or removed and stored in tightly sealed metal, 
plastic, or glass containers. 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MANAGING INSECTS IN STORED GRAIN WITH AERATION	                
-DOC-
                MANAGING INSECTS IN STORED GRAIN WITH AERATION	
                  R. A. Spray, Extension Agricultural Engineer	
	
Insects and molds need adequate moisture, food, and temperatures to survive and 
reproduce.  Since  food  is always available in stored grain,  control measures 
must maintain the temperature and moisture at levels detrimental to insect  and 
mold growth.	 
	
Temperature Conditions	
	
Temperatures under 60 F will prevent damaging populations of most insects which 
infest stored grain.  Lower temperatures,  around 40 F,  are needed to minimize 
mold growth.	 
	
Moisture Conditions	
	
Insects  obtain  water  primarily  from  the  grain  itself.  At grain moisture 
contents of 10% or below,  most insects and molds are unable to  obtain  enough 
water  to  survive.  At  a  storage  temperature  of  60 F,  this  10% moisture 
corresponds to a relative humidity of 40% for corn, wheat,  and sorghum and 60% 
relative humidity for soybeans.	 
Equilibrium  moisture  content (EMC) is the stabilized moisture that grain will 
dry to when surrounded by air at a constant temperature and relative humidity.	 
	
A table of EMC's is helpful in deciding when to run fans if the grain moisture, 
air temperature,  and relative humidity are known.  The following  table  is  a 
tabulation of EMC's for selected grains.  Wheat,  for example, will dry to 9.7% 
moisture when exposed to 60 F at 40% relative humidity.	 
	
If air surrounding  stored  grain  is  maintained  at  60 F  and  40%  relative 
humidity,  then  most  insect  and mold activity will be arrested.  Since grain 
continues to  "breathe"  in  storage,  these  conditions  have  to  be  checked 
frequently.	 
	
Things to check for:	
 Temperature:  Are there hot spots?	
 Moisture:  Grain tends to rewet at the top center due to moisture migration.	
 Water leaks in the roof and bin walls.	
 Moisture condensation inside the bin.	
 Musty odors.	
 Insects.	
 Molds.	
 Smell the first 10 seconds of air when the fans are run.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EQUILIBRIUM MOISTURE CONTENT OF GRAINS AND SEEDS (PERCENT WET BASIS)	     
-DOC-
     EQUILIBRIUM MOISTURE CONTENT OF GRAINS AND SEEDS (PERCENT WET BASIS)	
                 R. A. Spray, Extension Agricultural Engineer
 
           Temp.                          Relative Humidity (Percent)	
            F    10     20     30     40     50     60     70     80     90
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
	
Oats        77    4.5    6.6    8.2    9.4   10.3   11.4   12.8   15.0   18.2	
	
Shelled     40    6.4    8.6    9.9   11.2   12.6   13.9   15.6   17.7   21.4	
  corn      60    5.6    7.8    9.3   10.5   11.6   12.6   14.2   16.2   19.8	
            80    4.2    6.4    7.9    9.2   10.3   11.5   12.9   14.8   17.5	
           100    4.2    6.2    7.5    8.5    9.8   11.3   12.5   14.4   16.9	
           122    3.6    5.7    7.0    8.1    9.6   10.5   11.9   13.8   16.3	
           140    3.0    5.0    6.0    7.0    7.9    8.8   10.3   12.2   14.6	
	
Sorghum     30    6.1    8.3   10.0   11.3   12.4   13.4   14.6   15.8	
            60    5.4    7.7    9.5   10.7   11.9   13.0   14.1   15.2	
            90    4.7    7.1    8.8   10.1   11.3   12.4   13.5   14.7	
           120           6.5    8.2    9.5   10.7   11.7   12.9   14.1	
     EQUILIBRIUM MOISTURE CONTENT OF GRAINS AND SEEDS (PERCENT WET BASIS)	
 
           Temp.                          Relative Humidity (Percent)	
            F    10     20     30     40     50     60     70     80     90
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
	
Soybeans    41    5.2    6.3    6.9    7.7    8.6   10.4   12.9   16.9   22.4	
            59    4.3    5.7    6.5    7.2    8.1   10.1   12.4   16.1   21.9	
            77    3.8    5.3    6.1    6.9    7.8    9.7   12.1   15.8   21.3	
            95    3.5    4.8    5.7    6.4    7.6    9.3   11.7   15.4   20.6	
           113    2.9    4.0    5.0    6.0    7.1    8.7   11.1   14.9	
           131    2.7    3.6    4.2    5.4    6.5    8.0   10.6	
	
Wheat       30           7.1    9.1   10.6   12.1   13.5   14.7   16.5	
            60           6.0    8.2    9.7   11.3   12.6   13.9   15.6	
            90           5.1    7.1    8.8   10.4   11.7   13.0   14.7	
           120                  6.2    7.9    9.5   10.8   12.1   13.8	
	
	
   BECOME A MONDAY MORNING QUARTERBACK AND BEGIN CHECKING STORED GRAIN WEEKLY	 
 
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LIVESTOCK PEST CONTROL - EXTERNAL PESTS                    
-DOC-

                    LIVESTOCK PEST CONTROL - EXTERNAL PESTS
                      J. B. Kissam, Extension Entomologist

BEEF CATTLE BARNS AND FEED LOTS - INSECT: FLIES*
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

*Includes houseflies, stable flies, face flies, etc.  Recommendations made 
herein are based on the best information available.  Read and follow the label 
carefully to ensure best results and safety when using an pesticide.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

dimethoate              0.02 ppm in     1% SPRAY: Apply dilute spray to breed- 
  CYGON 2 E (23.4%)     meat, fat       ing areas, fly resting areas, etc.      
  or 2.67E (30.5%)

REMARK: Remove animals until spray has dried. Do not contaminate feed or water.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
dichlorvos               0.02 ppm in    0.5% MIST SPRAY:  Apply 0.5% mist 
  DDVP-VAPONA            meat, fat      spray at 1 qt/1,000 sq ft or 
  (21.8% or 40.2%EC                     5 gal/ac in feed lot situations
                                        (mist blower use).
REMARK: Avoid direct treatment of feed and water.  The 40.2% (FEED LOT) product 
        is the most economical.        
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
naled
  DIBROM 8 (58%)EC      0.05 ppm in     AIRCRAFT APPLICATION: Apply 0.25 lb 
  or DIBROM 14 (85%)    meat, fat and   ai/ac of 58% (8 lb/gal) or 85% (14 lb/
  SOL                   meat by-        gal). Dilute with diesel fuel as per
                        products.       label specifications.
                                        GROUND APPLICATION: Apply 0.25 lb ai/ac
                                        of 58% or 85% diluted as per label
                                        instructions.
REMARK: Do not treat with Dibrom near tidal waters.  Waiting period before 
        slaughter: NONE.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

permethrin              2 ppm fat,      0.1% SPRAY. Mix 1 qt EC in 12.5 gal 
  ECTIBAN EC (5.7%)     0.15 ppm meat   water or 6 oz (1 container) of WP in
  25WP                  by-product.     11 gal water. Prepare only as much 
                                        spray as needed because permethrin 
                                        degrades rapidly in water. Apply 
                                        1 gal/750 sq ft surface.

REMARK: Do not treat animals. Do not apply more often than every 14 days. 
        Permethrin is most effective in spring or fall. Use OP sprays (i.e. 
        Vapona) or pyrethrins in hot weather for best results and to kill 
        pyrethroid resistant flies. Do not use in milkrooms or parlors.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

permethrin                              0.125-0.25% SPRAY. Mix 6.67 oz WP con-
  ATROBAN 25% WP                        tainer in 5 gal water (0.25%) or 10 gal
  11% EC                                water (0.125%) or mix 1 pt EC/10 gal
  Other permthrin products--            water or 3 tbsp/gal. Apply 1 gal spray
  EXPAR, PERMECTRIN, etc.               to 750-1,000 sq ft surface area.

REMARK: Do not treat animals. Do not apply more often than every 14 days. 
        Permethrin is most effective in spring or fall. Use OP sprays (i.e. 
        Vapona) or pyrethrins in hot weather for best results and to kill 
        pyrethroid resistant flies. Do not use in milkrooms or parlors.

 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

fenvalerate                             0.1% SPRAY: Mix 1 qt to 25 gal water or
  ECTRIN 10% WDL        0.02 ppm meat,  2 oz/1 1/2 gal water.
  (water dispersible    fat, meat by-
  liquid)               products

REMARK: Do not spray animals.  Do not apply more then two applications in 
        spring and two in fall.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pyrethrins              0.1 ppm in      0.5-1% MIST SPRAY:  Apply oil or water
  oil solution, EC,     meat, fat       mist to fly resting areas.  For ULV 
  or pressurized                        usage, apply concentrate undiluted as 
  sprays                                specified on lable. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

malathion 91% solution  4 ppm in        AIRCRAFT APPLICATION: Apply 6-8 oz/ac
                        meat, fat       undiluted (ULV).

REMARK:  Waiting period before slaughter:  NONE.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1% methomyl bait        Nonfood use.    SELECTIVE BAITING:  Apply 1/4 lb/1,000
  PURINA FLY PATROL,                    sq ft around barns, loafing areas, etc.
  IMPROVED GOLDEN                       where flies are attracted.  Same as 
  MALRIN, ETC.                          above.
1% BOMYL
  FLY BAIT GRITS 

REMARK:  Apply as needed for control.  Do not allow animals to come into 
          contact with bait.  Do not contaminate feed or water.
______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEEF AND LACTATING DAIRY CATTLE - INSECT:  HORN FLIES*
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

BEEF AND LACTATING DAIRY CATTLE - INSECT:  HORN FLIES*
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

diflubenzuron           0.05 ppm meat,  BOLUS: Administer with balling gun.
  VIGILANTI             meat bypro-     Apply 1/2 to 2 bolus depending on wt.
  9.7% Bolus            ducts.

REMARK:  Follow label.  Do not treat cattle less than 300 lbs.  Adult flies 
         and cattle must be suppressed with sprays, dusts prior to treatment.  
         Migration of adult flies from untreated, nearby herds may be a 
         problem.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

BEEF AND LACTATING DAIRY CATTLE - INSECT:  HORN FLIES* (Cont)
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

methoprene              0.1 ppm meat,   Bolus: Administer with balling gun.
  ZOECON RF-293         meat byproduct  Apply 1/2 to 1 bolus depending on wt.
  1.5% Bolus            except fat.

REMARK:  Follow label.  Adult flies must be controlled same as for VIGILANTI
         above.
______________________________________________________________________________
*Some suppressive effect on housefly and stable fly breeding in waste can be
 expected.
______________________________________________________________________________

BEEF CATTLE AND DRY DAIRY CATTLE -INSECT:  HORN FLIES, LICE, TICKS, FACE FLIES, 
                                           STABLE FLIES
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

methoxychlor 25% EC     3 ppm in fat    BACKRUBBER: 5% oil.  Apply 1 gal/20 ft
                                        of cable.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
methoxychlor 50% WP                     0.5-1.5% SPRAY or DIP:  Apply dilute 
  MARLATE 50                            spray directly to animals depending on
                                        pest to be controlled.

REMARK:  Observe label precautions.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
methoxychlor 5-10% dust                 DUST STATIONS:  Apply in forced use 
                                        stations using double-lined burlap 
                                        bags.  Use 10 lb dust/bag.

REMARK:  One station/25-30 head.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
stirofos RABON 50% WP   1.5 ppm fat     0.5% SPRAY:  Apply spray directly to 
  or 24% EC             0.5 ppm meat    animals until wet (1/2 to 1 gal spray/
                        by-products      animal).
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
RABON 1-3% Dust                         DUST STATIONS:  Apply in forced-use 
                                        stations using commercial or homemade 
                                        burlap bags.  Can also use direct hand-
                                        dusting when possible for better 
                                        results.
REMARK:  One station/25-30 head.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
diazinon                0.7 ppm meat    TAG ANIMAL:  One tag/ear (Allflex
  TERMINATOR 20%        and meat        system).
  PVC EAR TAG           by-products

REMARK:  This is new SC 24(c) Reg. Jan 1987.  This tag has shown good results
         in trials for resistant hornflies.  It is a good alternative to the
         pyrethroid tags.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 fenvalerate 8%         0.02 meat,      TAG ANIMAL:  Attach one tag/ear with
  PVC Eartag            fat, meat       Allflex tagging system.
  ECTRIN,               by-products
  INSECTISHIELD,
  etc.                      

REMARK:  Tagging fits in well with spring worming and other animal health 
         practices.  See comments on next page about pyrethroid resistance.
________________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

flucythrinate 7.5%      1.0 ppm fat     TAG ANIMAL:  Same as for Ectrin.  
  PVC Tag               0.1 ppm meat    
  GUARDIAN              meat by-product
 
REMARK:  Same as for Ectrin Tag.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
permethrin              2 ppm fat,      0.05% SPRAY:  Mix 1 pt 11% EC to 25 gal
  ATROBAN, PERMECTRIN,  0.15 ppm meat,  water.  Apply 1-2 qt/animal.
  EXPAR, 11% EC         1.0 ppm meat
                        by-products     BACKRUBBER OIL:  0.15%. Mix 1 qt 
                                        11% EC/25 gal diesel.
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
permethrin (cont)
  ATROBAN, GARD-STAR,                   TAG ANIMAL:  Attach one tag/animal for
  PERMECTRIN PVC EARTAG/                horn fly control.  Two tags are 
  STIPS (10% permethrin)                required for face flies and ear ticks.

REMARK:   There is widespread resistance by hornfly to synthetic pyrethroid 
          insecticides (permethrin, fenvalerate, flucythrinate, etc.) across 
          US.  If pyrethroid tags were not effective in 1985, switch to organ-
          phosphate (Rabon or other OP) tags, sprays, or dusts for at least one
          season.  If hornflies were not controlled with pyrethroid tags during 
          past season, switch to organophosphate (OP), i.e. TERMINATOR.  We do 
          not recommend combination pyrethroid/OP tags.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
RAVAP (23% RABON                        0.35% RABON-0.10% VAPONA SPRAY:  Apply
  5.7% VAPONA)                          1/2 TO 1 gal/animal.

REMARK:  Do not treat more often than every 10 days.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

famphur WARBEX          0.01 ppm in     DUST STATION:  Apply in forced-use dust
  1% dust               meat, fat       station.

REMARK:  No waiting period.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

phosmet LINTOX          0.2 ppm in      DUST STATION:  Same for famphur.
  1% DUST               meat
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
coumaphos               1 ppm in meat,  0.125-0.25% SPRAY: Wet animal 
  CO-RAL 11.6% EC       fat, meat by-   thoroughly.  See label for mixing 
  25% WP, 42% F         products        instructions.

REMARK:  Do not spray or dip less than 3 mo old.  No waiting period.
                        ---------------------------------------------------
                                        0.25% DIP: Immerse animal.
                        ---------------------------------------------------
                                        BACK OR FACE RUBBER*:  Mix 1% oil
                                        solution from 11.6% EC.  Apply 1 gal/
                                        20 ft of cable.
REMARK:  Use diesel or mineral oil, not used motor oil.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CO-RAL 1-5% dust                        DUST STATIONS:  Apply in forced treat-
                                        ment dust stations.
REMARK:  Keep bags up during winter to aid in lice suppression.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

crotoxyphos-            0.02 ppm in     1% MIST SPRAY:  Dilute 1 qt conc to 
dichlorvos              meat, fat       3 gal/water.  Apply 1-2 fl oz (2-4 
  CIO-VAP 10.0% -                       tbsp) head daily.
  2.5% EC                               
                                        BACK OR FACE RUBBER: Mix 1% oil 
                                        solution by adding 1 pt conc. to 2 gal
                                        diesel oil.

REMARK:  Do not exceed 2 fl oz/head daily.  For more dilute sprays see label.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
dioxathion              1 ppm in fat    0.15% SPRAY:  Apply up to 2 qt/animal.
  DEL-TOX, CO-NAV       of meat
  20.4% EC                              

REMARK:  Do not treat more often then every 2 wk.  Do ot dip animals under 3 mo 
         of age.
                                        BACK OR FACE RUBBER: 1.5% in oil.  
                                        Apply 1 gal/20 ft cable.

REMARK:  Use diesel or mineral oil, not used motor oil.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
dichlorvos              0.02 ppm in     1% SPRAY:  Apply 1-2 floz/animal daily.
  DDVP-VAPONA           meat, fat       For bait solution and 1 lb sugar/gal of
  21.8% EC                              spray.

REMARK: Do not exceed 2 fl oz/head/day. Waiting period before slaughter: 1 day.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
malathion 57% EC        4 ppm in meat,  0.5% SPRAY:  Wet animals thoroughly.
                        fat
                                        BACKRUBBER:*  2% oil solution.  Apply
                                        1 gal/20 ft cable.

REMARK:  Use diesel or mineral oil, not used motor oil.
*Treat for grubs after heel fly season (March-April) but before October 1.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion 4-5% dust                     DUST STATION:  Apply in forced- 
                                        treatment dust stations.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
phosmet                 0.2 ppm meat,   SPRAY: 1-100 or 1-200 dilution.  See
  LINTOX-HD             fat meat by-    label.
  11.6% EC              products.
REMARK:  Do not treat dairy cattle less than 28 days before freshening.  Three 
         (3) day withdrawal on beef cattle before slaughter.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

fenthion                0.1 ppm in      POUR-ON:  Dilute for either horn fly or
  LYSOFF 7.6% solution  meat, fat       lice control as per label instructions.

REMARK:  This is a useful product when cattle are being worked in spring or 
         fall.  If grubs are a problem select a labeled systemic from list that
         follows:
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________

                 INSECT:  CATTLE GRUBS,* LICE, HORN FLIES
________________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE             METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
coumaphos               1.0 ppm in      0.35-0.50% SPRAY:  Wet animal 
  CO-RAL (11.6% EC      meat, fat,      thoroughly.  Follow label for mixing
  or 25% WP)            by-products     instructions.

REMARK:  Do not apply to animals under stress or in conjunction with medication
         or insecticides.

*Treat for grubs after heel fly season (March-April) but before October 1.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CO-RAL (11.6% EC or                     0.25% DIP:  Immerse animal.  Follow
  25% WP)                               label for mixing instructions.

REMARK:  Recharge dip solution according to label guidance.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

CO-RAL 4% solution                      POUR ON:  Ready to use.  Pour 1/2 fl 
                                        oz/100 lb body wt along backline of 
                                        cattle.

REMARK:  Same restrictions as for sprays.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

                          INSECT: CATTLE GRUBS,* LICE
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE             TOLERANCE                  METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

*Spring use of systemic insecticide aids in reducing early horn fly 
population.  This allows later use of ear tags for extended summer control and 
helps minimize the resistance problem with ear tags.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

famphur WARBEX 13.2%    0.1 ppm in      POUR ON:  Ready to use.  Apply 1/2 fl
  solution              meat, fat       oz/100 lb body wt along backline of 
                                        animal.

REMARK:  35-day waiting period before slaughter.  May be used with Tramisol 
         wormer, medications, etc., but not with other organophosphate 
         insecticides.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

trichlorfon NEGUVON     0.1 ppm in      POUR ON:  Ready to use.  Apply 1/2 fl
  8% solution           meat, fat       oz/100 lb body wt along backline of
                                        animal.

REMARK:  Restrictions same as for CO-Ral.  Waiting period before slaughte: 21 
         days.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

fenthion  TIGUVON 3%    0.1 ppm in      POUR ON:  Ready to use.  Apply 1/2 fl
  solution              meat, fat       oz/100 lb body wt along backline of 
                                        cattle.

REMARK:  Restrictions same as for Co-Ral.  Waiting period before slaughter: 35 
         days.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
fenthion  SPOTTON 20%                   SPOT ON:  Ready to use.  Squeeze 4 cc/ 
  solution                              300 lb body wt.  Apply to one spot 
                                        only.  Do not spread.

REMARK:  Follow label carefully.  Waiting period before slaughter: 45 days.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
phosmet GX 118          0.2 ppm meat,   POUR ON:  Apply 1 fl oz of 1:2 water
  11.6% EC              fat, meat by-   mixture/100 lb body wt.

REMARK:  Waiting period before slaughter:  21 days.

  IVOMEC (ivermectin)   See Drug List   INJECTION: Available from veterinarian 
                                        and for producer use.

REMARK:  See Drug List.  Ivermectin is new chemistry and very effective against 
         a broad spectrum of blood-sucking animal parasites.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

                           INSECT:  MAGGOTS IN WOUNDS
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                 METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

coumaphos  CO-RAL       1 ppm in meat,  HAND DUST:  Apply directly to wound.
  1-5% dust             fat             Repeat as required.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CO-RAL 3% pressurized                   SPOT SPRAY:  Apply directly to wound.
  spray
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
lindane 3% smear or     7 ppm fat of    Same as for Co-Ral.
  pressurized spray     meat
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ronnel KORLAN           10 ppm fat,     Same as for Co-Ral.
  5% smear, dust or     4 ppm meat
  2.5% pressurized      and meat
  spray                 by-products
________________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEEF CATTLE ONLY        INSECT:  LICE, HORN FLIES
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

BEEF CATTLE ONLY        INSECT:  LICE, HORN FLIES
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos            1.5 ppm in      SPOT ON:  Apply 2 cc/100 wt.  Follow 
  DURSBAN 44 (43.2%)    meat, fat,      label instructions carefully.
                        meat by-
                        products

REMARK:  Do not use on dairy cattle of any age.  See label for other breeds 
         excluded from treatment.  Waiting period before slaughter: 14 days.  
         See label for withdrawal schedule if more than one treatment used.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DAIRY BARNS (INCLUDES OUTDOOR LOAFING AREAS)  
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

DAIRY BARNS (INCLUDES OUTDOOR LOAFING AREAS)  

                   INSECT:  HOUSEFLIES, OTHER NUISANCE FLIES
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

dimethoate CYGON 2E     0.002 ppm in    1% SPRAY:  Apply as spot treatment to 
  (23.4%)               milk, 0.02 ppm  breeding areas and fly resting areas.
                        in meat, fat

REMARK:  Remove animals from barn or lot while spraying.  Do not use in milk- 
         room.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
methomyl 1% bait        Nonfood use     READY-TO-USE BAIT: Apply 1/4 lb/1,000
  PURINA FLY PATROL,                    sq ft to fly-attractant area.
  IMPROVED GOLDEN 
  MALRIN, etc.
bomyl 1% bait                           Same as above.
  FLY BAIT GRITS

REMARK:  Do not apply baits where cattle can reach them.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  RAVAP (23% RABON,     0.5 ppm for     1% SPRAY:  Apply coarse spray to fly-
  5.7% VAPONA) EC       Rabon in milk,  resting areas.  Spot treat fly-maggot-
                        0.02 ppm for    breeding areas.
                        Vapona in milk,
                        and fat
REMARK:  Do not contaminate milk, milk-handling equipment, cattle feed, or 
         water.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

permethrin              2.0 ppm fat     0.1% SPRAY:  Mix 1 qt EC in 12.5 gal 
  ECTIBAN EC (5.7%)     0.15 ppm meat   water or 6 oz (1 container) of WP in
  25WP                  1.0 ppm meat    11 gal water.  Prepare only as much
                        by-products     spray as needed because permethrin de-
                        0.15 ppm whole  grades rapidly in water.  Apply 1 gal/
                        milk, 3.75 ppm  750 sq ft surface.
                        milk fat        
  ATROBAN, EXPAR,                       MIX:  1 pt 11% EC to 10 gal/water.
  PERMECTRIN, etc.                      Apply same as above.
  11% EC

REMARK:  Do not apply more often than every 14 days.  Do not use in milkroom or 
         parlors.  Use permethrin in spring and fall for best results.  Overuse 
         of the pyrethroids (permethrin, etc.) should be avoided to reduce 
         selection pressure and resistance.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

permethrin                              0.125-0.25% SPRAY:  Mix 6.67 oz 
  ATROBAN                               container in 5 gal water (0.25%) or 10
  PERMECTRIN WP (25%)                   gal water (0.125%).  Apply same as for 
                                        Ectiban.

REMARK:  Cautions same as for Ectiban.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

dichlorvos              0.01 ppm in     0.5% SPRAY:  Apply water mist spray at
  DDVP/VAPONA 21.8%     milk, meat,     rate of 1 qt/8,000 cu ft.
                        fat

REMARK:  Do not apply to animals within 8 hr of last treatment.  Do not use in
         milkrooms.  Do not apply in conjunction with permethrin sprays.
______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DAIRY BARNS (INCLUDES OUTDOOR LOAFING AREAS, MILKROOMS)
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

DAIRY BARNS (INCLUDES OUTDOOR LOAFING AREAS, MILKROOMS)

                        INSECT:  HOUSEFLIES, OTHER NUISANCE FLIES
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

pest strip                              VAPOR:  Use one strip/1,000 cu ft.
  DDVP/VOPONA 20%

REMARK:  Milkroom use only.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

pyrethrins              0.5 ppm in      SPRAYS:  Ready to use.  Aerosols or 
  0.1-0.7%              milk, fat       mist sprays.

REMARKS:  Follow label instructions.  Keep exposed foods covered.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DAIRY CATTLE* (LACTATING)  INSECT:  HORN FLIES, OTHER BITING FLIES**, 
-DOC-
________________________________________________________________________________

DAIRY CATTLE* (LACTATING)  INSECT:  HORN FLIES, OTHER BITING FLIES**, 
                                    FACE FLIES, LICE
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

*Dry dairy cattle may be treated same as beef cattle but be sure that proper 
waiting periods are observed before freshening.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
coumaphos               0.5 (N) ppm in  0.03% SPRAY:  1 lb WP/100 gal water or
  CO-RAL 25% WP         milkfat         1 qt EC/100 gal.  Wet cattle to runoff.
  or 11.6% EC

REMARK:  Repeat when necessary.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

  CO-RAL 11.6% EC                       BACKRUBBER:  1% in oil.  Apply 1 gal/20
                                        ft cable.

REMARK:  Use diesel or mineral oil, not used motor oil.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  CO-RAL 1-5% dust                      DUST STATIONS:  Set up forced treatment
                                        at exit from milk parlor.

REMARK:  Do not contaminate feed or water.  May also hand treat with shaker 
         can.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  CIO-VAP EC (12.5%)                    SPRAY:  Mix 1 qt/3 gal water.  Apply
                                        same as for ready-to-use spray.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

pyrethrins (0.01-0.1%)  0.5 ppm in      MIST SPRAYS:  Various sprays for mixing
                        milk, fat       or ready-to-use.

REMARK:  Apply according to labe instructions daily.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion 4-5% dust     4 ppm in meat,  HAND DUST:  3-4 tsp/head.
                        fat 0.5 ppm in
                        milk, fat

REMARK:  Do not apply within 5 hr of milking.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
methoxychlor 50% WP     1.25 ppm in     HAND DUST:  Apply 5 grams (1 tsp) to 
  MARLATE 50            milk, fat       back and neck and rub in by hand.

REMARK:  Treat again at 3-wk intervals if needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
stirofos RABON          0.5 ppm in      DUST BAGS:  Set up dust bags same as 
  3% dust               milk, fat,      for Co-Ral.  Apply 1-2 tbsp/head when
                        meat and meat   hand-treating.
                        by-products
                        1.5 ppm fat of
                        cattle
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
fenvalerate 8%          0.02 ppm in     TAG ANIMAL:  Attach one tag/ear with 
  ECTRIN PVC EARTAG     meat, fat,      All-Flex tagging system.
                        meat by-
                        products, milk
                        fat
REMARK:  If pyrethroid eartags (Ectrin, Ectiban, etc.) not effective during 
         past season, switch over to program using organophosphate (OP)
         insecticides such as Rabon (eartags, dusts, sprays), Co-Ral (dusts,
         sprays), or malathion (dust).
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
permethrin 10%          2.0 ppm fat     TAG ANIMAL: Attach two tags/animal for
  PVC Eartag/Strip,     0.15 ppm meat   hornfly and facefly control.
  ATROBAN, GARD-STAR    1.0 ppm meat
  ANCHOR                  by-products
                        0.15 ppm whole milk
                        3.75 ppm milk fat

  ECTIBAN 5.7% EC                       0.05% SPRAY: Mix 1 qt 5.7% EC/t0 gal 
                                        water.  Apply 1-2 qt spray/animal.

REMARK:  Do not retreat more often than every 2 wk.

  ATROBAN, EXPAR,                       BACKRUBBER:  (0.15% oil).  Mix 1 qt 
  PERMECTRIN 11% EC                     5.7% EC/10 gal diesel.
                                        
                                        MIX: 1 pt 11% EC in 50 gal/water.  
                                        Apply same as above.
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

  ECTIBAN D, PERMECTRIN Dust            DUST BAGS OR HAND DUST:  Forced-use
  (0.25% Dust)                          stations at milk parlor exits are most
                                        effective.  Apply 2 oz (5 tsp)/animal
                                        for direct application.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

flucythrinate 7.5%      1.0 ppm fat     TAG ANIMAL:  Same as for permethrin
  PVC TAG (Guardian)    0.1 ppm meat,   above.
                        meat by-product
                        0.1 ppm milk
                        0.05 milk fat

REMARK:  Same comments about tags as for Ectrin.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

dichlorvos              0.02 ppm in     1% SPRAY:  Apply spray at 1.2 fl oz/
  VAPONA-DDVP 21.8%     milk            animal.  Add 1 lb sugar/gal as 
                                        attractant.

REMARK:  Do not apply to calves under 6 mo old or Brahman cattle.

diflubenzuron           0.05 ppm meat,  BOLUS: Administer with balling gun.
  VIGILANTI             meat bypro-     Apply 1/2 to 2 bolus depending on wt.
  9.7% Bolus            ducts.

REMARK:  Follow label.  Do not treat cattle less than 300 lbs.  Adult flies 
         and cattle must be suppressed with sprays, dusts prior to treatment.  
         Migration of adult flies from untreated, nearby herds may be a 
         problem.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

methoprene              0.1 ppm meat,   Bolus: Administer with balling gun.
  ZOECON RF-293         meat byproduct  Apply 1/2 to 1 bolus depending on wt.
  1.5% Bolus            except fat.

REMARK:  Follow label.  Adult flies must be controlled same as for VIGILANTI
         above.
______________________________________________________________________________
**Some suppressive effect on housefly and stable fly breeding in waste can be
 expected.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEEF AND DAIRY CATTLE        INSECT:  MAGGOTS IN WOUNDS, EAR TICKS*
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

BEEF AND DAIRY CATTLE        INSECT:  MAGGOTS IN WOUNDS, EAR TICKS*
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                 METHOD AND RATE
______________________________________________________________________________

coumaphos               1 ppm in meat,  HAND DUST:  Apply as needed to wound.
  CO-RAL 5% livestock   fat; 0.5 ppm 
  duster                in milk, fat

REMARK:  No waiting period between use of this product and use of meat or milk.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  CO-RAL 3% aerosol                     SPRAY FOAM:  Apply as needed to wound.
______________________________________________________________________________

*The synthetic pyrethroid cattle ear tags (ECTRIN, ATROBAN, PERMECTRIN, etc.) 
are effective against ear ticks.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                 METHOD AND RATE
______________________________________________________________________________

  ronnel KORLAN         10 ppm in fat;  Same as Co-Ral above.
  5% smear, dust or     4 ppm in meat, 
  2.5% pressurized      meat by-product;
  spray                 1.25 (N) in milk
                        fat
______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SWINE -  INSECT:  LICE, FLIES*
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

SWINE -  INSECT:  LICE, FLIES*
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

malathion 57% EC        4 ppm in meat   0.5% SPRAY:  Apply qt or less/animal.
  or 25% WP

REMARK:  Do not apply to animals under 1 mo old.  Keep hogs out of sun several 
hours following treatment.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

malathion 4-5% dust                     HAND DUST:  Apply thoroughly to 
                                        animals.

REMARK:  Use 1/4 - 1/2 tsp on animals less than 1 mo of age.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

coumaphos               1 ppm in meat,  0.125% SPRAY:  Mix 2 qt Ec/100 gal 
  CO-RAL 11.6% EC       fat             water or 2 lb WP/100 gal.  Apply until
  and 25% WP                            animal is wet.

REMARK:  Follow label carefully.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CO-RAL 1% Dust                          HAND DUST:  Apply 1 oz/animal as 
                                        necessary but not more than once every 
                                        10 days.  Apply 2 oz/30 sq ft of 
                                        bedding (not more than once every 10 
                                        days).

REMARK:  No waiting period required for use of meat.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

10% crotoxyphos         0.02 ppm in     0.25% COARSE SPRAY:  Apply spray until
2.5% dichlorvos         meat, fat       animal is wet.
  CIO-VAP               (ciodrin), 
                        0.1 ppm in 
                        meat (Vapona)

REMARK:  Do not apply more than once/wk.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

stirofos  RABON 50% WP  1.5 ppm in fat  0.5% SPRAY:  Wet animal thoroughly.
                        0.5 ppm in meat

REMARK:  Repeat in 2 wk if necessary.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
RABON 3% dust                           HAND DUST:  Apply 3-4 oz dust to each
                                        animal or treat bedding with 1 lb dust/
                                        150 sq ft.

REMARK:  Do not repeat more often than once every 14 days.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
fenthion                0.1 ppm in      BACK TREAT: Ready to use.  1/2 fl oz/
  TIGUVON 3% solution   meat, fat       100 lb body weight.

REMARK:  14-day waiting period before slaughter.  May treat lactating sows to 
         reduce lice on nursing pigs.

*Includes houseflies, other nuisance flies which are attached to or breed 
around pig parlors, etc.  See Fly Control under beef cattle barns, feed lots, 
and poultry fly control for more information.  Most products for fly control 
are labeled for use around swine.  Check labels for specific instructions.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

                        INSECT:  LICE, MANGE
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

lindane EC (6.5-20%)    4 ppm in fat    0.05% SPRAY:  Mix according to label.
  or 25% WP                             Wet animal thoroughly.

REMARK:  30-day waiting period before slaughter.  Repeat treatment in 2-3 wk
         if necessary.

                                        HOG OILER:  0.25% oil solution.  Mix
                                        according to label instructions.

REMARK:  30-day waiting period.  Do not expose animals less than 1 mo old.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

malathion 57% EC        4 ppm in meat,  0.5% SPRAY:  Mix 6 1/2 oz EC or 3/4 lb
  25% WP                fat             WP/5 gal water.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

dioxathion DEL-TOX,     1 ppm in fat    0.15% SPRAY OR DIP:  Mix 1 qt/50 gal
  CO-NAV 20.4%          of meat         water.  Wet each animal thoroughly.

REMARKS:  Treat infested pen area also.  Do not dip animals under 3 mo of age.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

fenvalerate             1.5 ppm meat    0.05% SPRAY:  Mix 1 qt/50 gal water or
  ECTRIN 10% WDL        and meat by-    1 oz/1 1/2 gal water. Apply up to 8 oz/
                        products        animal directed to areas of heavy
                                        infestation.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

phosmet                 0.2 ppm         HAND DUST:  1/2 - 1 oz/animal.
  PROLATE,
  LINTOX 1% DUST

REMARK:  Repeat in 10-14 days if needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
flucythrinate           1 ppm fat,      EAR TAG: Apply with ALLFLEX appli- 
  GUARDIAN              0.1 ppm meat    cator.   1 tag/head for growing swine.
  10% Ear Tag           and meat        2 tags/head for adult swine.
                        by-products.

REMARK:  Remove tags before slaughter.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

permethrin              2.0 ppm fat;    0.025% SPRAY:  Mix 1 qt 5.7% EC/50 gal
  ECTIBAN 5.7% EC       0.15 ppm in     water. Thoroughly spray entire animal
                        meat            with particular attention to ears and
                                        head.  Treat pen area also.

  ATROBAN, EXPAR,                       MIX:  1 pt 11% Ec/50 gal water.  Apply
  PERMECTRIN 11% EC                     same as above.

REMARK:  Same as above.

  ECTIBAN D, PERMECTRIN                 HAND DUST:  Apply 1 oz (2 1/2 tsp)/
  (0.25% Dust)                          animal.

REMARK:  For lice only.  Apply a second treatment in 14 days.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
            
                            INSECT:  MANGE
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

amitraz                 0.1 ppm fat of  .125% SPRAY: Mix 1 pt/25 gal water or
  TACTIC                meat; 0.05 ppm  2 fl oz/3 gal water.  Spray animals,
  12.5% EC              meat, fat and   walls, floors with course spray.
                        meat by-
                        products;       DIP:  Use same mix above to dip
                        0.2 ppm kidney, piglets. 
                        liver

REMARK:  One day waiting period.  Repeat treatment in 7-10 days if needed.
         Spray boars every 2-3 months.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

                           INSECT:  MAGGOTS* IN WOUNDS
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

lindane 3% smear        4 ppm in fat    SMEAR:  Apply as needed to wound.
  EQ335
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

coumaphos               1 ppm in meat,  DUSTER CAN:  Apply as needed to wound.
  CO-RAL 1-5% dust

*Maggots may be secondary screwworms, black blowflies, or other flesh flies.  
Maggots are not likely to be screwworms but send maggots to Clemson for 
identification if concerned.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SHEEP AND GOATS       INSECT: LICE, SHEEP TICK (KED), TICKS, MANGE MITES, 
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

SHEEP AND GOATS       INSECT: LICE, SHEEP TICK (KED), TICKS, MANGE MITES, 
                              WOOD MAGGOTS
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                 METHOD AND RATE
______________________________________________________________________________

coumaphos               1 ppm in meat,  0.125% SPRAY OR DIP:  Wet or immerse
  CO-RAL 11.6% EC       fat, 0.5 ppm    animals thoroughly.
  or 25% WP             in milk

REMARK:  Waiting period: 15 days on slaughter animals.  Do not use on lactating 
         goats or within 14 days of freshening.  Do not treat animals less than
         3 mo old, sick animals, or animals under medication.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  CO-RAL 0.5% Dust                      RUB 1-2 oz on each animal.

REMARK:  Same as Co-Ral above.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                 METHOD AND RATE
______________________________________________________________________________

crotoxyphos-dichlorvos  0.02 ppm in     0.25% SPRAY:  Wet animal thoroughly.
  CIO-VAP 12.5% EC      meat, fat and
                        meat by-products

REMARK:  Do not apply more often than once/wk.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

dioxathion              1 ppm in meat,  0.15% SPRAY OR DIP:  Mix 1 qt/50 gal 
  DEL-TOX,              fat             water.  Wet or immerse animals
  CO-NAV 20.4%                          thoroughly.

REMARK:  Do not use more often than every 14 days on milk goats or animals
         less than 3 mo old.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                 METHOD AND RATE
______________________________________________________________________________

fenvalerate             1.5 ppm in      0.025% SPRAY:  Mix 1 qt/100 gal or
  ECTRIN 10 WDL         meat and        1 oz/3 gal water.  Apply up to 1 qt
                        meat by-        solution/animal.
                        products
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
lindane EC (6.5-20%)    7 ppm in fat    0.05% SPRAY OR 0.025% DIP:  Wet or
  or 25% WP                             immerse animals thoroughly.

REMARK:  Waiting period: 30 days for spray and 60 days for dips on slaughter
         animals.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
malathion 57% EC        4 ppm in meat,  0.5% SPRAY OR DIP:  Wet or immerse
  25% WP                fat             animals thoroughly.

REMARK:  Do not use on lactating animals or animals less than 1 mo old.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                 METHOD AND RATE
______________________________________________________________________________

malathion 4-5% dust                     Apply liberally for thorough coverage.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

methoxychlor 25% EC     3 ppm in meat,  0.5% SPRAY:  Wet animal thoroughly.
  or 50% WP             fat             Repeat in 2-3 wk if needed.
  MARLATE

REMARK:  Same as malathoin.
______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

                          INSECT:  MAGGOTS* IN WOUNDS
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                 METHOD AND RATE
______________________________________________________________________________

coumaphos               1 ppm in meat,  Apply as required to treat wound.
  CO-RAL 1-5% dust      fat, 0.5 ppm 
                        in milk
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
lindane 3% smear        7 ppm in fat    Same as Co-Ral.
  EQ335
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HORSES - INSECT:  BOTS
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

HORSES - INSECT:  BOTS
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE                METHOD AND RATE             RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

See drug list.
Warm water treatment     Sponge animal with warm     Rub animal firmly and keep
(30 days after killing   water (120oF) when eggs     water warm.  Bots will 
frost). Repeat 30 days   are present.                hatch and die when wet 
later.                                               thoroughly with warm 
                                                     water.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

                        INSECT:  BITING FLIES*
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE                METHOD AND RATE             RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
stirofos RABON-1%        SPRAY OR WIPE ON: Ready
liquid for horses        to use.  Apply as needed to
(contains pyrethrins     protect areas of animal 
plus repellent). Has     being attacked.
tolerance of 0.5 ppm
in fat.

permethrin ECTIBAN 1%    WIPE ON: Ready-to-use.      Avoid contact with horse's
                         Brush horse's coat to       eyes and nostrils. Repeat
                         remove dust, dirt, etc.     treatment in 3-7 days if
                         Wipe product on affected    needed.
                         area with sponge.
*Includes stable flies, deer flies, horn flies, blackflies, and mosquitoes.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

                       INSECT: FACE FLIES, HOUSEFLIES
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE                METHOD AND RATE             RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

Various sprays (DDVP,    SPRAY AND WIPE ON:  Ready   Follow label instructions
pyrethrins, Ciodrin,     to use.                     and cautions.
repellents)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  FACE FLIES, HOUSEFLIES, STABLE FLIES
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE                METHOD AND RATE             RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

permethrin               SPRAY: (0.1%). Treat horse  Do not treat animals.
  ECTIBAN/ATROBAN        barns and premises as       Permethrin residual sprays
  EC WP                  residual control.  See      applied to barns (inside
                         beef cattle for fly         and outside walls), 
                         control.                    corrals, etc., will help
                                                     greatly to suppress flies
                                                     if water and waste manage-
                                                     ment is effective.

  ECTIBAN (5.7% EC),     SPRAY (0.025%). Treat       Do not treat animals more
    ATROBAN, EXPAR       animals. Mix 1 pt 5.7% EC   often than every 2 wk.
  PERMECTRIN, etc.       or 1/2 pt 11% EC/25 gal
    11% EC               water.  Apply 1 qt/spray/
                         animal.
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE                METHOD AND RATE             RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
                         
fenvalerate              0.1% SPRAY:  Mix 1 qt/25    Do not treat horses or 
  ECTRIN 10% WDL         gal water or 2 oz/1 1/2     horse barns if animals are
                         gal water.  Spray animals   intended for slaughter.
                         (8 oz/animal as light 
                         mist spray) or premises 
                         at 1 gal/750 sq ft.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

10% permethrin           HALTER/BRIDLE ATTACHMENT:   These strips should help
  PERMECTRIN FLY STRIP   Attach one strip with       with face flies and deer/
                         self-locking fastener/      horse flies.  Stable flies
                         animal.                     feed on legs and will not 
                                                     be affected.

1% permethrin (read      SPRAY OR WIPE-ON:           Apply as directed.
to use) (Tech-Trol 12)   (Silicone based).
_______________________________________________________________________________

INSECT:  HORN FLIES, LICE, TICKS*
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE                METHOD AND RATE             RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

coumaphos                70.06% SPRAY: Mix 1 oz      Do not treat sick animals.
  CO-RAL 11.6% EC or     25% WP or 2 fl oz 11.6% EC  Do not treat animals less
  25% WP                 in 3 gal water.             than 3 mo old.  Do not use
                         Apply lightly to animal.    in conjunction with medi-
                                                     cations or other insecti- 
                                                     cides.  Repeat in 2 wk for
                                                     lice if necessary.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  CO-RAL 1-5% dust       HAND DUST:  Rub into coat   Same as Co-Ral.
                         thoroughly.

*Permethrin sprays or wipe-on solution should be effective against ticks and 
horn flies also.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE                METHOD AND RATE             RESTRICTIONS/REMARKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

dioxathion               0.15% SPRAY OR DIP: Mix     Cautions same as for 
  DEL-TOX, CO-NAV        1 qt/50 gal water.          Co-Ral.
  20.4% EC               Lightly wet coat.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

malathion 57% EC         0.5% SPRAY:  Mix 4 fl       Cautions same as for
                         oz/3 gal water.             Co-Ral.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

malathion 4-5% dust      HAND DUST:  Rub 2-3 oz      Repeat as needed.
                         into coat thoroughly
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POULTRY PEST CONTROL - EXTERNAL PESTS                     
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

                     POULTRY PEST CONTROL - EXTERNAL PESTS
_______________________________________________________________________________

CAGED LAYERS AND OTHER POULTRY ON WIRE - INSECT:  HOUSEFLY ADULTS
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

dichlorvos              0.05 ppm in     0.5% CONTACT SPRAY:  Apply in fine 
  VAPONA-DDVP           meat, fat and   spray to fly resting areas (about 1 
  21.8% EC              eggs            qt/1,000 sq ft).

REMARK:  Do not spray birds directly.  CAUTION:  Vapona concentrate is very 
         toxic.  Handle carefully and follow label cautions.  Vapona is good
         contact adulticide.  Apply twice daily to fly resting areas until
         population is reduced.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

permethrin              0.05 ppm in     0.1% SPRAY:  Mix 1 qt EC in 12.5 gal 
  ECTIBAN EC (5.7%)     eggs, meat,     water, diesel or mineral oil, or 6 oz
  25 WP                 fat and meat    (1 container) of WP in 11 gal water.
                        by-products     Appl1 gal/750 sq ft surface.

  ATROBAN, EXPAR,                       0.125% SPRAY:  Mix 1 pt/10 gal water.
  PERMECTRIN, 11% EC                    Apply same as above.

REMARK:  Do not treat poultry.  Apply permethrin sprays only during spring and 
         fall.  There are indications of resistance to permethrin and cross
         resistance to pyrethrins in house flies.  If poor control is obtained,
         switch to organophosphate spray (Vapona) immediately.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
permethrin ATROBAN                      0.125-0.25% SPRAY:  Mix 6.67 oz 
  PERMECTRIN EC (25%)                   container in 5 gal water (0.25%) or in
                                        10 gal water (0.125%).  Apply same as
                                        Ectiban.

REMARK:  Cautions same as for Ectiban, etc., above.  See comments about 
         resistance above.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
methomyl 1% bait        Nonfood use     DRY BAITS:  Apply 1/4 lb/500 sq ft to
  PURINA FLY PATROL,                    walkway, etc.
  IMPROVED GOLDEN
  MALRIN, etc.

bomyl 1%                                Same as above.
  FLY BAIT GRITS

REMARK:  Observe all label cautions.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
pyrethrins              0.2 ppm in      0.7% AEROSOL:  Used in automatic-piped
(synergized)            meat, fat       spray system.
0.3-5.0% Conc.*         0.1 ppm in
                        eggs            0.3%-0.6% MIST SPRAY: Use in automatic-
                                        piped system (Ragsdale, etc.), mist
                                        sprayer (Challenger, etc.) or ULV 
                                        generators (Leco, Micro-Gen).

REMARK:  Best results obtained when system operated minimum of three times/wk.
         Larvicide only on spot basis.

         Adulticide sprays support good fly pest management.  For best results
         start adult suppression early (Feb-Mar) to avoid buildup and high
         breeding potential.
*Concentrate (5%) to be diluted with mineral oil or insecticidal oil (not 
diesel) to give 0.5% (1:9).
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

xanthene dye            No tolerance    BAIT STATION:  For cage layers use
(erythosine b)          required (on    1 bait station/300 sq ft manure sur-
  SYNERID               GRAS list)      face area.  For broiler breeders use
                                        1 bait station/400 sq ft floor surface
                                        area.

REMARK:  SYNERID  bait solution will kill flies effectively on sunny days.
         Place stations along periphery of houses out of the weather.  Knock-
         down adulticides (i.e. pyrethrins) must be available in case of 
         prolonged cloudy weather.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

CAGED LAYERS AND OTHER POULTRY ON WIRE - INSECT: HOUSEFLY 
                  (OFFICE, SALESROOMS, EGG-PROCESSING ROOMS, ETC.)
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

VAPONA 20%              0.05 ppm in     HANGING STRIP:  One strip/1,000 cu ft.
(resin strip)           meat, fat and
                        eggs
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pyrethrins                              0.1-0.7% AEROSOL OR MIST SPRAYS:  Apply
(synergized)                            by label instruction.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
resmethrin              Nonfood use     0.25% AEROSOL OR MIST SPRAYS:  Apply
  SBP 1382                              by label instruction.

REMARK:  Do not apply resmethrin inside poultry houses or egg rooms.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

Insecta-Paint           Nonfood use     SURFACE PAINT:  Paint ceiling of egg- 
  WAR-PAINT                             room, overhead areas at loading docks,
  (0.8% chlorpyrifos)                   etc.

REMARK:  This a a good supplemental fly control measure.  It helps reduce 
         pyrethroid resistance in the fly population.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

CAGED LAYERS AND OTHER POULTRY ON WIRE -  INSECT:  HOUSEFLY LARVAE*
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

dimethoate              0.02 ppm in     1% LARVICIDE SPRAY: Apply as coarse 
  CYGON 2 E (23.4%)     meat, fat and   spray to manure (about 1 gal/25 sq ft).
                        eggs

REMARK:  Keep pressure low to avoid contamination of eggs, feed, water.  Avoid
         general treatment of manure.  Spot treat only.

*A xanthen dye product (erythrosine B) sold under the tradename SYNERID is 
under evaluation in South Carolina.  This product is being legally sold but not 
enough data is available at this time (8/1/85) to warrant recommendation.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

stirofos                0.1 ppm in      1% LARVICIDE SPRAY:  Apply same as 
  RABON WP 50%          egg, meat,      Cygon.
                        0.75 ppm in fat 

REMARK:  Same as for Cygon.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

stirofos,               0.05 ppm        1% LARVICIDE SPRAY:  Apply same as 
  5.7% dichlorvos       dichlorvos      Cygon.
  RAVAP (21.4))

REMARK:  Same as for Cygon.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CAGED LAYERS AND BREEDER CHICKENS - INSECT:  HOUSEFLY LARVAE
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

CAGED LAYERS AND BREEDER CHICKENS - INSECT:  HOUSEFLY LARVAE
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

cyromazine              0.25 ppm in     FEED ADDITIVE:  1 lb premix/ton feed.
  LARVADEX 1.0%         eggs, 0.05 ppm
  premix                in fat and meat
                        of caged layers

REMARK: The old 0.3% pre-mix was discontinued due to resistance and mixing 
        problems.  Start fly control in late winter.  Kill adult flies with
        knockdown insecticides and start Larvadex treatment as per label when
        breeding is first evident in pit.  Feed continuously for 4-6 weeks or
        until no breeding is detectable in pit.
______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CAGED AND FLOOR BIRDS - INSECT:  LICE, MITES*
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

CAGED AND FLOOR BIRDS - INSECT:  LICE, MITES*
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
  
*Do not treat laying chickens for mites unless infestations are very heavy and
productivity is affected.  Spraying the birds may cause productivity losses 
which can not be recovered.  Treat hot spots of mite activity rather than all 
birds.  This will reduce production losses due to bird upset.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

coumaphos               1 ppm in meat,  0.25% SPRAY:  Apply 1 gal/100 birds -
  CO-RAL 25% WP         fat, 0.1 ppm    use high pressure spray.
                        in eggs

REMARK:  Use only once/wk.  Do not use on stressed or medicated birds.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
CO-RAL 0.5% Dust                        HAND OR POWER DUSTER:  1 lb/100 birds 
                                        or 1 lb/20 sq ft of litter.
REMARK:  Same as Co-Ral 25% WP.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
carbaryl                5 ppm in meat,  0.5% SPRAY:  Apply 1 gal/100 birds. Use
  SEVIN 50 OR 80% WP    fat, 0.5 ppm    high pressure spray.
                        in eggs

REMARK:  Follow label instructions.  7-day waiting period from last application
         to slaughter.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SEVIN 5% Dust                           HAND OR POWER DUSTER:  1 lb/100 birds 
                                        or 1 lb/40 sq ft of litter.
REMARK:  Some dusts contain sulfur.  A definite explosion hazard exists if used
         with electrostatic custers.  If properly diluted, sulfur will not 
         readily explode.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
stirofos                0.1 ppm in      0.5% SPRAY: Apply 1 gal/100 birds.  Use
  RABON 50% WP          eggs, meat      high pressure spray.
                        .075 ppm in     
                        fat             PREMISE DUSTING:  Use 2.5 oz/100 sq ft
                                        of litter.

                                        DUST BOXES: 2.5 oz/50 birds.

REMARK:  Do not repeat more often than every 14 days.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  RABON 3% Dust                         PREMISE DUSTING OR DIRECT DUSTING OF 
                                        BIRDS:  Apply 1 lb/100 sq ft of litter
                                        or 1 lb/300 birds.

REMARK:  Same as for Rabon WP.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
  
  RAVAP EC              0.05 ppm in     0.5% PLUS 0.1% SPRAY:  Apply 1 gal/100
  (23% Rabon,           eggs (Vapona)   birds.  Use high pressure spray.
  5.7% Vapona)

REMARK:  Same as for Rabon WP.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

naled                   0.05 ppm in     0.15% SPRAY:  Mix 1 pt/20 gal water.
  DIBROM 36% EC         eggs            Apply 1 gal solution/100 birds.  Use 
                                        high pressure spray.

REMARK:  Do not treat chickens under 6 wk of age or turkeys under 3 mo.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

CAGED AND FLOOR BIRDS - INSECT: MITES*
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
permethrin              0.1 ppm in      0.05% SPRAY:  Mix 1 pt to 12.5 gal 
  ECTIBAN 5.7% EC       poultry meat,   water.  Apply at rate of 1 gal spray/
                        fat, meat by-   100 birds.

  ATROBAN, EXPAR                        MIX:  1 pt 11% EC 25 gal/water.  Apply
  PERMECTRIN, etc.                      same as above.
  11% EC

REMARK:  Switch to carbaryl or stirofos if control not obtained with 
         pyrethroids.

*Do not treat laying chickens for mites unless infestations are very heavy and
productivity is affected.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

BROILER CHICKENS (FLOOR BIRDS)  INSECTS:  LESSER MEALWORMS (LITTER BEETLES)
                                          AND BEDBUGS
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

carbaryl                5 ppm in meat,  6% SPRAY:  Mix 62.5 lb/100 gal water.
  SEVIN 80 S            fat; 0.5 ppm    Apply 1-2 gal spray/1,000 sq ft of 
  (80% WP)              in eggs         walls, roosts, litter, bedding, etc.

REMARK:  Do not treat nests, eggs, etc or contaminate feed or water.  Do not
         treat within 7 days of slaugher.  Do not spray chickens.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

                      INSECT:  LESSER MEALWORMS (LITTER BEETLES)
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

boric acid 99%          Non-food use.   SOIL TREATMENT:  After cleanout and
  REDZONE DBC                           removal of litter, apply 2# of dry
                                        formulation/100 sq ft.  Cover with new
                                        shavings.

                                        CRACK AND CREVICES:  Mix 1 lb/3 gal 
                                        water and inject into wall voids, etc.

REMARK:  This is a new approach to the litter beetle problem.  The boric acid 
         treatment suppresses the soil pupation of the larvae.
______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RANGED TURKEYS - INSECT:  CHIGGERS, MITES
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

RANGED TURKEYS - INSECT:  CHIGGERS, MITES
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

malathion 25% WP        4 ppm in meat,  RANGE TREATMENT: Apply 1 1/2 lb WP or
  or 57% EC             fat, 0.1 ppm    1 1/2 pt EC/ac in enough water for 
                        in eggs         coverage.

REMARK:  Apply 1 day before placing birds on range.  Repeat at 2- to 3-wk 
         intervals if needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

malathion 4-5% dust                     RANGE TREATMENT:  Apply 20 lb of 4% or
                                        25 lb 5% dust/ac.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________

PESTICIDE               TOLERANCE                METHOD AND RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________

chlorpyrifos            0.2 ppm in      RANGE TREATMENT:  Apply 4 lb ai/ac 
  DURSBAN 50 W          meat, fat,      (8 lb of 50 W in 100-150 gal water/ac) 
                        by-products     or 3 oz in 3-4 gal water/1,000 sq ft.

REMARK:  Do not apply directly to turkeys.  Treat ranges just before placement. 
         No more than two treatments permitted for any turkey flock; allow 4-wk
         minimum between treatments.  Do not treat within 7 days of slaughter.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

sulfur dust             Exempt          RANGE TREATMENT:  Apply 25-50 lb/ac
                                        depending on amount of vegetation.
_______________________________________________________________________________


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOUSED TURKEYS - INSECT:  LICE, MITES, FLEAS, TICKS
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________

HOUSED TURKEYS - INSECT:  LICE, MITES, FLEAS, TICKS
_______________________________________________________________________________

NOTE:  See recommendations for chickens.  Most recommendations for chickens 
will also take care of turkey problems.  Consult pesticide label for variances 
if they exit.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEEF CATTLE DRUG LIST	                               
-DOC-
                               BEEF CATTLE DRUG LIST	
                      R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
ACTIVE                     WITHDRAWAL         BRAND NAME	
INGREDIENTS                   DAYS            EXAMPLES	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
______________________________INJECTABLE USE_________________________________	
dihydrostreptomycin          30               Various trade names	
erythromycin                 14               Galimycin	
levamisole phosphate          7               Ripercol L; Tramisol	
oxytetracycline              15               Terramycin 100	
                             18               Oxy-Tet 50; Oxy-Tet 100	
                             19               Aquachelle; Oxyvet	
                             20               Oxyject	
                             22               Oxytetracycline HCL; 	
                                              Terramycin	
                             28               LA 200	
procaine penicillin G         5               Pro-Pan G in Aqueous	
                                              Solution	
procaine penicillin G                          
  and dihydrostrepto-	
  mycin sulfate              20               Combiotic; Distrycillin	
                                              strep; Pro-Pen G in	
                                              Dihydrostreptomycin	
                                              Sulfate	
sulfadimethoxine              7               Albon; Agribon	
sulfamethazine               10               Sulmet	
sulfathiazole and            10               Sul-Thi-Dine; Sul-Trol-E	
sulfapyridine sodium	
tylosin                       8               Tylan-50	
fenprostalene                 0               Bovilene	
dinoprost tromethamine        0               Lutalyse	
                                              Estrumate	
ivermectin                                    Ivomec	
________________________________IMPLANT USE__________________________________	
estradiol benzoate and                        Synovex-H	
  testosterone propionate	
progresterone and estradiol                   Synovex-S Steer Finishing &	
benzoate                                      Steriod Implants	
zeranol                      65               Ralgro Implants	
estradiol 17B                 0               Compudose	
norgestromet-estradiol        9               Syncro-Mate B	
  valerate
_________________________________TOPICAL USE_________________________________	
famphur                      35               Anchor Famphur Pour-On;	
                                              Bo-Ana Famphur Cattle	
                                              Insecticide; Purina Grub-	
                                              Kill; Warbex Famphur Pour-	
                                              On Cattle Insecticide 13.2%	
fenthion                     35               Tiguvon Pour-On	
                             45               Spotton Cattle Insecticide	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
ACTIVE               BRAND NAME                       WITHDRAWAL   
INGREDIENT           EXAMPLES          RATE            DAYS      USE	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
___________________________________ORAL USE__________________________________	
amprolium           Corid     226 mg/cwt/day (21 days)   1    Prevention of 	
                                                              coccidiosis.	
chlortetracyline    Aureomycin   5 mg/#for 60 days       2    Aids in elimin-	
  hcl.                                                        ating carrier 	
                                                              state of ana-	
                                                              plasmosis.	
chlortetracycline              350 mg/head/28 days        7   Aids in elimin-	
  sulfa methazine                                             ating carrier	
                                                              state of ana-	
                                                              plasmosis.	
clorsulon           Curatrem                                  For eliminating	
                                                              liver flukes.	
fenbendazole        Safeguard   3.4 mg/#                      Broad spectrum	
                                                              wormer.	
lasalocid           Bovatec     10-30 g/ton               0   For improved feed	
                                                              efficiency in 
                                                              feedlot cattle 
                                                              fed for slaughter	
                                                              on hay.	
                           25-30 g/ton in complete feed   0   For improved feed	
                                                              efficiency and	
                                                              weight gain.	
levamisole                       3.6 g/#                  2   For treating 	
                                                              cattle for worms.	
melengestrol       
  acetate              MGA-100    0.25-0.50 mg/head/day   2   For increased 
                                                              rate of weight 	
                                                              gain, feed effi-	
                                                              ciency, and sup-	
                                                              pression of 
                                                              estrus in heifers	
monensin sodium     Rumensin     5-30 g/ton               0   Improved feed	
                                                              efficiency.	
morantel tartrate   Rumatel      0.44 g/100 #            14   For removal and	
                                                              control of mature  
                                                              gastrointestinal	
                                                              nematode infec-	
                                                              tions including	
                                                              stomach worms.	
oxtetracycline                   0.05.0.1 mg/#/day       15   To increase rate 
                                                              of gain and im-	
                                                              prove feed effi-	
                                                              ciency.	
                                 0.5 mg/#/day or 100 g/ton    Aid in prevention	
                                                              of bacterial 
                                                              diarrhea, also 	
                                                              known as scours.	
                                 75-100 mg/head daily         Aid in prevention	
                                                              of bacterial	
                                                              diarrhea, also 	
                                                              known as scours.	
                                 75 mg/head daily             Aid in reducing	
                                                              incidence and	
                                                              severity of bloat	
                                 75 mg/head daily             Aid in reducing 	
                                                              incidence and	
                                                              severity of liver	
                                                              abscesses.	
phenothiazine                    1/4 g/100 # daily            Aid in preventing	
                                                              breeding of horn	
                                                              flies and face 
                                                              flies in the 
                                                              manure of treated	
                                                              cattle.	
poloxalene       Bloatguard      1.0-2.0 g/100 #/day   None   Prevention of 
                                                              bloat on legume 	
                                                              and wheat 
                                                              pastures.	
rabon            Rabon           0.00015 #/100 #/day   None   Control of fecal	
                                                              flies in manure 
                                                              of treated cattle	
thiabendazole     TBZ            3 g/100 #              3     Control infection	
                                                              from gastroin-	
                                                              testinal 
                                                              roundworms.	
                                 5 g/100 #                    Control severe 	
                                                              infections of	
                                                              gastrointestinal	
                                                              roundworms.	
_____________________________________________________________________________	

 
 







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHICKEN DRUG LIST	                                 
-DOC-
                                 CHICKEN DRUG LIST	
                        R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
ACTIVE                    WITHDRAWAL         BRAND NAME	
INGREDIENTS                  DAYS            EXAMPLES	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
arsenicals:                   5              Pro-Gen + Feed Supplement;	
  arsanilic acid                               Poly Stat 3; 10% Ren O Sal;	
  sodium arsanilic                             C Roxarsone 20%; Roxarsone	
  sodium arsanilate                            50%; 3 Nitro Powder Premix	
  roxarsone	
bambermycins, roxarsone,      5              Flavomycin + Roxarsone +	
  and zoalene                 5              Zoalene	
bambermycins and zoalene      5              Flavomycin + Zoalene	
clopidol                      5              Coyden 25	
chlortetracycline             1              Micro CTC 100	
dihydrostreptomycin                          
  sulfate and streptomycin	
  sulfate (injectable)	      30              Bi-Strep Solution	
erythromycin ethyl succinate  1 (water)      Gallimycin	
erythromycin thiocyanate      2 (feed)       Gallimycin	
estradiol monopalmitate      42              Esmopal Roaster Shots	
furazolidone                  5              Furox; Forazolidone NF-180	
gentamicin sulfate	
  (injectable)               35              Garasol Injection	
lasalocid sodium alone or	
  with roxarsone              3              Avatect	
lasalocid sodium with	
  bacitracin methylene        3              Avatec + Fortracin	
  disalicylate	
lincomycin with lasalocid     5              Lincomix-Avatex	
monensin alone or with        3              Coban; Monelan, Monensin &	
  bacitracin methylene                         Bacitracin MD; Monensin &	
  disalicylate, bacitracin                     Zinc Bacitracin; Lincomix-	
  zinc, lincomycin, or                         Coban; Terramycin-TM 50;	
  oxytetracycline                              TM 10 plus Coban	
monensin with	
  bambermycins                5              Monensin & Bambermycins	
nicarbazin                    4              Nicarbazin	
nitarsone                     5              Histostat-50	
nitrofurazone                 5              Dow Co-Ra-Zone; Furacin, NFZ	
                                               Feed	
novobiocin                    4              Albamix	
oxytetracycline (feed)        1              Terramix-10 Medicated Premix	
                              5              Terramycin Animal Formula	
oxytetracycline (injectable)  5              Terramycin Injectable Solution	
oxytetracycline with	
  robenidine                  5              OTC & Robenz Premix	
robenidine hydrochloride      5 (feed)       Robenz	
robenidine alone or with      5              Robenz & Bactitracin MD;	
  bacitracin MD or zinc                        Robenz & Zinc Bacitracin;	
  or chlortetracycline or                      Robenz with Aureomycin;	
  lincomycin                                   Robenz and Lincomix	
sodium sulfachloropyrazine	
  monohydrate                 4              ESB3	
spectinomycin	
  dihydrochloride	
  pentahydrate                5              Spectam Water-Soluble	
                                               Concentrate	
streptomycin sulfate          4 (water)      Biotec 25% Solution; Vetstrep	
                                               25% Solution	
sulfachloropyrazine sodium    4              Sodium sulfachloropyrazine	
                                               Solution	
sulfadimethoxine alone or	
  with ormetoprim             5 (water)      Agribon Soluble Powder; Albon	
                                               Soluble Powder; Rofenaid 405	
                                               Medicated Premix	
sulfanitran and aklomide      5              Novostat-W	
sulfanitran and nitromide     5              Unistat-3	
sulfaquinoxaline             10              Sulfaquinoxaline Powder	
tetracycline hydrochloride    4 (water)      Tetracycline HCL Soluble	
                                             Powder; Tetrachel-Vet Bulk-102;	
                                               Tetramycin, Tetra-Sol; 	
                                               Vetquamycin Bulk-102	
tylosin                       5 (feed)        Tylan Premix No. 10	
tylosin tartrate              1 (oral)        Tylan Soluble	
                              3 (injectable) Tylan Injectable	
_____________________________________________________________________________	







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DAIRY CALF DRUG LIST	                                
-DOC-
                                DAIRY CALF DRUG LIST	
                        R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
ACTIVE                    WITHDRAWAL      BRAND NAMES	
INGREDIENTS                  DAYS*        EXAMPLES	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
________________________DAIRY CALF DRUGS (Injectable Use)____________________	
dihydrostepto-               30           Dihydrostreptomycin	
mycin sulfate                             Sulfate Injections;	
                                          Dihydrostreptomycin	
erythromycin                 14           Erythromycin Injectable	
levamisole                    7           Ripercol L; Tramisol	
oxytetracycline              15           Terramycin 100	
                             18           Oxy-Tet 50; Oxy-Tet 100	
                             19           Aquachelle 100	
                             20           Oxyject	
                             22           Oxytetracycline HCL,	
                                          Terramycin; LA200	
procaine penicillin G         5           Pro-Pen G	
procaine penicillin G      
  and dihydrostrepto-	
  mycin sulfate              30           Combiotic; Distrycillin	
                                          A.S.; Mycillin V; Pen-	
                                          strep; Pro-Pen G in	
                                          Dihydrostreptomycin	
                                          Solution	
sodium sulfachlorpyri-        5           Prinzone Injectable;	
  dazine                                  Vestisulid Injectable	
sulfamethazine               10           Sulmet Solution	
                                          Injectable 12.5%	
sulfadimethoxine              7           Agribon Injection 40%	
                                          for Cattle	
tylosin                       8           Tylan 50; Tylan 100	
__________________________DAIRY CALF DRUGS (Oral Use)________________________	
amprolium                     1           Amprolium 0.025% and	
                                          0.0125%; Amprol Soluble Pow-	
                                          der; Amprovine 25%; Corid	
chlorhexidine dihydro-       
  chloride and dihydro-	      3           Nolvasorb suspension
  streptomycin sulfate	
chlortetracycline hydro-      1           Anchor Chlortetracycline	
                                          Pneumonial/Calf Scour Boluses	
                                          Vi-Mycin (water)	
                              3           CTC HCL Powder	
chlortetracycline             3           CTC Bisulfate	
bisulfate (water)                         Powder	
chlortetracycline and
  neomycin                    1           Calf Scour Oblets
levamisole hydrochloride      2           Levasole or Tramisol	
                                          Cattle Wormer Bolus and	
                                          Gel	
streptomycin                  30          Vetstrep 25%; Biotic 25%	
                                          Solution	
sulfabromomethazine           10          Sulfabrom	
sulfachlorpyridazine           7          Vetisulid Bolus; Prinzone	
                                          Bolus	
sulfadimethoxine               7          Agribon Soluble Powder;	
                                          Albon 12.5% Drinking	
                                          Water Solution	
sulfamethazine                10          Sulmet Oblet	
sulfamethazine                10          Sulfastrep	
streptomycin phythaly-	
  sulfathiazole, and kaolin	
tetracycline hydro-            5          Tetracycline-Vet Soluble	
  chloride (water)                        Powder; Tetra-Sol	
thiabendazole                  3          Omnizole 6.6% Wormer 	
                                          Crumbles; Thibenzole 100	
_________________________DAIRY CALF DRUGS (Topical Use)______________________	
famphur                       35          Anchor Famphur Pour-On;	
                                          Bo-Ana Pour-On; Purina Grub-	
                                          Kill; Warbex Famphur Pour-On	
                                          Cattle Insecticide 13.2%	
fanthion                      35          Tiguvon Pour-On	
                         (add 45 days	
                          if retreated)	
                              45          Spotton Cattle Insecticide	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
*Withdrawal times are given for a prescribed dosage and route of administra-	
tion.  Higher levels (e.g., two mastitis tubes/teat instead of one) or 
different route of administration can alter the withdrawal time significantly.	









-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DAIRY CATTLE DRUG LIST	                             
-DOC-
                             DAIRY CATTLE DRUG LIST	
                        R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
ACTIVE                        WITHDRAWAL            BRAND NAME	
INGREDIENTS                      DAYS               EXAMPLES	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
_______________________NON-LACTATING COWS (Injectable Use)___________________	
oxytetracycline                15                   Terramycin 100	
                               18                   Oxy-Tet 50	
                                                    Oxy-Tet 100	
                               19                   Aquachelle-100	
                                                    Rachelle Oxyvet	
                                                    Injection	
                                                    Oxyvet-100	
                               20                   Oxyject	
                               22                   Oxytetracycline	
                                                    HCL	
                                                    LA 200	
fenprostalene                  0                    Bovilene	
norgestromet +	
  estradiol valerate           51                   Syncro-Mate-B	
_______________________NON-LACTATING COWS (Oral Use)_________________________	
sulfadimethoxine               7                    Albon 2.5	
                                                    Agribon 2.5	
_______________________NON-LACTATING COWS (Topical Use)______________________	
famphur                        35                   Anchor Famphur Pour-On	
                                                    Bo-Ana Famphur Cattle	
                                                    Insecticide	
                                                    Purina Grub Kill	
                                                    Warbex Famphur Pour-On	
                                                    Cattle Insecticide 13.2%	
                                                    Tiguvon Pour-On	
fenthion                       35 (add 45 days      Tiguvon Pour-On	
                                  if retreated)     Spotton	

          
_____________________________________________________________________________	
ACTIVE                 MILK DISCARD   WITHDRAWAL   BRAND NAME	
INGREDIENTS            MILKING (HR)     DAYS       EXAMPLES	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
_________________________LACTATING COWS (Injectalbe Use)_____________________	
erythromycin           6 (72)                      Erythrocin Injectable	
procaine penicillin G  6 (72)            5         Pro-Pen G	
procaine pencillin G                              
dihydrostreptomycin    4 (48)           30         Distrycillin A. S. 	
                                                   Mycillin V;Pen-Mycin;Pro-	
                                                   Pen in Dihydrostreptomycin	
                                                   Solution Combiotic; Pen-	
                                                   Strep	
sulfadimethazine       5 (60)            5         Agribon Injection 40% for	
                                                   cattle	
sulfamethazine         8 (96)            10        Sulmet Solution Injectable	
                                                   12.5%	
tylosin                8 (96)            8         Tylan-50; Tylan-200	
dinoprost              0                 0         Lutalyse	
cloprostenol           0                 0         Estrumate	
fenprostalene          0                 0         Bovilene	
_________________________LACTATING COWS (Oral Use)___________________________	
sulfabromomethazine    8 (96)            10        Sulfabrom 2.5 GM	
sulfadimethazine       5 (60)            7         Agribon 2.5 GM	
                                                   Albon 2.5	
sulfamethazine         8 (96)            10        Sulmet Oblets	
sulfasoxasole          8 (96)            10        Soxisol Tablets	
thiabendazole          8 (96)            3         Omnizole 6.6% Wormer	
                                                   Crumbles; TBZ Wormer	
                                                   Paste; Thibenzole (15 GM)	
_____________________________________________________________________________	









-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GOAT DRUG LIST	                                 
-DOC-
                                 GOAT DRUG LIST	
                        R. E. Wright, Extension Veternarian	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
                 BRAND NAMES     METHOD AND       WITHDRAWAL	
PRODUCT          EXAMPLES        RATE             DAYS         USE	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
albendazole                      3.4 mg#                   For liver flukes.	
cambendazole                     9-11.5 mg/#               For roundworms.	
fenbendazole    Safeguard        2.3-4.6 mg/#              For roundworms.	
lasalocid       Bovatec          15-70 mg/day       0      Prevention of 	
                                                             coccidiosis.	
levamisole      Tramisol         2-5 mg/3           3      Wormer.	
nicloslosamide                   35 mg/#                   For tapeworms.	
oxfendazole                      2.3 mg/#                  For roundworms.	
sulfaquinoxaline                 1.5 g/day         10      Prevention and/or	
                                                             treatment of	
                                                             coccidiosis.	
sulfasoxazole	
thiabendazole   TBZ              2 g/100 #         30      For roundworms. 	
____________________________________IMPLANTS_________________________________	
norgestomet &   	
  estradiol     Syncro-mate-B                      51      For estrus	
  valerate      RalGro                                     synchronization.	
zeranol         Synovex                            65      For growth	
                                                             promotion	
                Steeroid	
_________________________________INJECTABLES_________________________________	
dihydrostreptomycin                                30	
erythromycin                                        3	
procaine penicillin G                               5	
dhydrostreptomycin                                 30	
sulfamethazine                                     10	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
               

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HORSE DRUG LIST	                                
-DOC-
                                HORSE DRUG LIST	
                   R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
GENERIC              DRUGS                           PARASITES	
NAME               TRADE NAME            ASCARIDS  STRONGYLES  PINWORMS  BOTS	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
Bendazoles	
  cambendazole       Camvet                  +          +          + 	
  fenbendazole       Panacur, Safeguard,	
                     Paste Formulation*      +          +          +	
  mebendazole        Telmin                  +          +          +	
  oxfendazole        Benzelmin               +          +          +	
  thiabendazole(TBZ) Equizole, Equivet TBZ              +          +	
                     Performance Horse Wormer	
  oxbendazole        Anthelcide EQ           +          +          +	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
Organic Phosphates	
  dichlorvos         Equigel, Equigard	
                     2, Tridex, Shell	
                     Horse Wormer            +          +          +       +	
  trichlorfon(T)     ComBot, Dyrex,	
                     Negabot, Anthon,	
                     Equibot TZ, P/M	
                     Trichlorfon             +                     +       +	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
Others	
  febantel           Rintel, Cutter 	
                     Paste Wormer            +          +          +	
  piperazine(PPZ)    Equivet Jr, Wonder	
                     Wormer, Foal Wormer,	
                     Alfalfa Pellet Horse	
                     Wormer                  +                     +	
  pyrantel Pamoate   Strongid T, Imathal     +          +          +	
  ivermectin         Equalan Paste-Zimectrin +          +          +       +	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
Combinations	
  TBZ & T            Equizole B,Equivet 14   +          +          +       +	
  TBZ & PPZ          Equizole A              +          +          +	
  PPZ, T &	
   phenothiazine     Dyrex TF                +          +          +       +	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
febantel &	
  trichlorfon       Negabot Plus             +          +          +       +	
dithiazanine	
  iodide & PPZ      Dizan                    +          +          +       +	
phenothiazine	
  PPZ & carbon	
  disulfide         Parvex Plus              +          +          +       +	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
+Means effective against that parasite.	
*Control of arteritis caused by the fourth-stage larvae of strongylus vulgaris 
in horses and for concomitant use with trichlorfon as an anthelmintic for 
horses.	


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTRAMAMMARY INFUSION DRUGS	                           
-DOC-
                           INTRAMAMMARY INFUSION DRUGS	
                      R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
Intramammary infusion mastitis products approved by FDA	
ACTIVE         TRADE                LACTATING   O-T-C   MILK  PRESLAUGHTER	
INGREDIENTS(S) NAME*       COMPANY  OR DRY COW  or Rx  TIMES  WITHDRAWAL TIMES	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
400 mg 	
novobiocin       Biodry      Upjohn      Dry       OTC   (a)     30 days	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
procaine 	
penicillin G     Aqua-Pen &  Hanford      L        OTC   84 hr    4 days	
100,000 units    Four-Pen	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
procaine	
penicillin G     Hanford's   Hanford      L        OTC   60 hr    3 days	
100,000 units    Penicillin	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
procaine	
penicillin G     Formula     Masti-kure   L        OTC   60 hr    3 days	
100,000 units    A-34	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
potassium	
hetacillin  	
equiv. to 	
62.5 mg	
ampicillin       Hetacin-K    Bristol      L       Rx    72 hr   10 days	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
1,000,000      Quarter-     Hamilton      Dry      Rx    6 wk     60 days post-	
penicillin &   master                                   posttreat  treat & 96	
1 gm dihy-                                             & 96 hr    hr postpartum	
drostreptomycin                                        postpartum 	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
benzathine	
cloxacillin	
500 mg          Orbenin-DC    Beecham     Dry      Rx     28 hr    28 days	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
benzathine	
cloxacillin	                                                       	
500 mg          Dry-Clox      Bristol     Dry      Rx     (a)      30 days	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
benzathine	
cloxacillin	
500 mg          Boviclox      Squibb      Dry      Rx     (a)(b)     (c)	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
penicillin      Albacillin &   Upjohn      L        OTC    72 hr     15 days	
100,000 &       Special	
novobiocin      Formula 17900	
150 mg          Forte	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
novobiocin	
400 mg &	
penicillin	
200,000 per 	
ml              Albadryplus   Upjohn      D        OTC    72 hr      -	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
sodium	
cephapirin      CEFA-Lak &    Bristol     L        OTC    96 hr      4 days	
200 mg/dose     To-Day	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
426 mg	
oxytetracycline	
HCL              Liquamast    Pfizer      L&D       OTC    96 hr      4 days	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
300 mg	
erythromycin     Gallimycin   Abbott      L&D       OTC    36 hr      None	
                 36 Sol'n                                           established	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
novobiocin	
150 mg           Albamast     Upjohn      L         Rx     72 hr      15 days	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
cephapirin	
benzathine	
300 mg          Cefa-Dri      Bristol     Dry       OTC    72 hr      42 days	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
sodium	
cloxacillin	
200 mg          Dari-clox     Beecham     L         Rx     48 hr      10 days	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
*Some of these product also may be available under distributors' trade names.	
(a) Not to be used within 30 days of calving.	
(b) Milk taken from treated cows before 72 hr after calving must not be used 
for food.	
(c) Not be slaughtered for food from time of infusion until 72 hr after 
calving.	
 



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMMON RABBIT DISEASES	                            
-DOC-
                            COMMON RABBIT DISEASES	
                      R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
DISEASE                CAUSE                          TREATMENT	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
Ear Canker             Ear mites (psoroptes)          Sevin in oil	
Mucoid Enteritis       Complex (Bacteria, Protozoa)   Bacitracin	
                                                      Tetracyclines	
                                                      Gentamycin	
Coccidiosis            Coccidia (Protozoa)            Amprolium	
                                                      Sulfaquinoxalene	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
Disease control involves sanitation, careful handling, good nutrition, and	
isolation of new rabbits.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SHEEP DRUG LIST	                                
-DOC-
                                SHEEP DRUG LIST	
                        R. E. Wright, Extension Veternarian	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
                 BRAND NAMES     METHOD AND       WITHDRAWAL	
PRODUCT          EXAMPLES        RATE             DAYS         USE	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
albendazole                      3.4 mg#                   For liver flukes.	
cambendazole                     9-11.5 mg/#               For roundworms.	
fenbendazole    Safeguard        2.3-4.6 mg/#              For roundworms.	
lasalocid       Bovatec          15-70 mg/day       0      Prevention of 	
                                                             coccidiosis.	
levamisole      Tramisol         2-5 mg/3           3      Wormer.	
nicloslosamide                   35 mg/#                   For tapeworms.	
oxfendazole                      2.3 mg/#                  For roundworms.	
sulfaquinoxaline                 1.5 g/day         10      Prevention and/or	
                                                             treatment of	
                                                             coccidiosis.	
sulfasoxazole	
thiabendazole   TBZ              2 g/100 #         30      For roundworms. 	
____________________________________IMPLANTS_________________________________	
norgestomet &   Syncro-mate-B                      51      For estrus	
                                                             synchronization.	
  estradiol 	
  valerate      RalGro         	
zeranol         Synovex                            65      For growth	
                                                             promotion	
                Steeroid	
_________________________________INJECTABLES_________________________________	
dihydrostreptomycin                                30	
erythromycin                                        3	
procaine penicillin G                               5	
dhydrostreptomycin                                 30	
sulfamethazine                                     10	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
               

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SWINE DRUG LIST-FEED ADDITIVES	                        
-DOC-
                        SWINE DRUG LIST-FEED ADDITIVES	
                      R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
ACTIVE                                        WITHDRAWAL     	
INGREDIENT           BRAND NAME        RATE     (DAYS)       USE	
_____________________________________________________________________________ 	
_________________________________ORAL USE____________________________________	
arsanilic acid                  45-90 g/ton       5    Weight gain and feed	
                                                       efficiency	
bacitracin MD                   250 g/ton         5    For control of swine	
                                                       dysentery	
bambermycin                     2 g/ton           0    For growth promotion	
carbadox            Mecadox     10-25 g/ton       70   For growth promotion	
                                50 g/ton               Control of enteritis	
chlortetracycline   Aureomycin  10-50 g/ton       2    Growth promotion and	
                                                       feed efficiency	
                                50-100 g/ton           Prevention of enteritis	
                                100-200 g/ton          Treatment of enteritis	
dichlorvos          Atgard      348 g/ton         7    Broad spectrum wormer	
                                                       (Ascarid, nodular	
                                                       worm, whipworm)	
erythromycin        Gallimycin  9.25-64.75 g/ton  7    feed efficiency and	
                                                       increased weight gain	
fenbendazole        Safeguard                     5    Broad spectrum wormer	
                                                       (ascarids,nodular worms,	
                                                       kidneyworms)	
furazolidone                    150 g/ton         5    Prevention of enteritis	
                                                       and growth promotion	
                                300 g/ton              Treatment of enteritis	
levamisol           Tramisol    0.36 g/lb.bwt.    3    Broad spectrum wormer	
                                                       (ascarids,nodular worms,	
                                                       kidneyworms,threadworms)	
lincomycin          Lincocin    40 g/ton               Control-swine dysentery	
                                100 g/ton         6    treatment of swine	
                                                       dysentery	
oxytetracyline      Terramycin  25-50 g/ton       4    Growth promotion	
                                50 g/ton               Prevention of enteritis	
neomycin                        35-140 g/ton      20   Prevention of baby pig	
                                                       enteritis	
penicillin                      10-5- g/ton       5    Growth promotion and	
                                                       feed efficiency	
penicillin and   	
 streptomycin       Combiotic   1.5 g/ton         30   Increase rate of gain	
                                                       and feed efficiency	
pyrantel tartrate   Banminth    96 g/ton          1    Swine wormer for	
                                                       ascarids and nodular	
                                                       worms.	
sulfathiazole                   0.056 g/cwt/day   3    Treatment for pneumonia	
thiabendazole       TBZ         30-40 mg/lb.      30   Wormer for threadworms	
                                                       nodular worms	
tylosine            Tylan       100 g/ton         2    Growth promotion	
virginiamycin                   10 g/ton               Growth promotion	
                                25 g/ton               Control of dysentery	
                                100 g/ton              Treatment of swine	
                                                       dysentery	
	
                         DRINKING WATER PRODUCT	
tiamulin        Denagard     10.5 mg/lb/bwt   7 days   Treatment	
                                                       Hemophilus Pneumonia	
                                                       Use for 5 consc.day	
                                                       Do not use in swine	
                                                       over 250 # bwt. Do	
                                                       use with ionophores.	

_____________________________________________________________________________	
ACTIVE                         BRAND NAMES                WITHDRAWAL	
INGREDIENTS                    (EXAMPLES)                    DAYS	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
_________________________________INJECTABLE USE______________________________	
ampicillin trihydrate          Princillin                     15	
apramycin                      Apralan                        28	
dihydrostreptomycin sulfate    Dihydrostreptomycin            30	
Erythromycin                   Erythro 200                     7	
erythromycin                   Gallimycin                      7	
gentamycin sulfate             Gentocin (piglet)              40	
ivermectin                     Ivomec 1%                      18	
lincomycin hydrochloride       Lincocin                        2	
oxytetracycline                Oxytet 50                      18	
                               Oxytet Injection               26	
                               Terramycin Injectable          22	
procaine penicillin            Crysticillin                    6	
                               Procaine Penicillin G.          7	
sodium selenite                Myosel B                       14	
sulfamethazine                 Sulmet Solution                10	
sulfapyridine sodium           Sulfathiazole                  10	
tylosin                        Tylan 50                       14	
                               Tylan 200                      14	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
                                 WATER PRODUCTS	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
ampicillin trihydrate          Princillin                      1	
apramycin sulfate              Apralan Soluble Powder         28	
chlortetracycline              Aureomycin                      1	
chlortet. bisulfate           	
  and sulfamethazine           Aureomycin-Sulmet Soluble
                                 Powder                       15	
chlortetracycline              Aureomycin Soluble Powder	
                                 Concentrate 1000 mg/gal.      1	
gentamycin sulfate           
  hydrochloride                Gentacin Oral Solution	
                                 (neonates and older)          3	
levamisole hydrochloride       Tramisol                        3	
lincomycin hydrochloride       Lincomix                        6	
neomycin sulfate               Biosol Soluble Powder          20	
Nitrofurazone                  NFZ Soluble 9.2                 5	
                               Amifur                          5	
oxytetracycline                Terramycin Soluble Powder       5	
roxarsone                      3-Nitro Powder                  5	
sulfethoxypyradazine           S.E.Z. Crumbles                10	
sulfamethazine                 Sulmet Drinking Water	
                                 Solution                     15	
sulfaquinoxaline               Sulfaquinoxaline               10	
tetracycline hydrochloride     Tetra-Sol                       4	
tiamulin                       Denagard                        3	
tylosin                        Tylan Plus Vitamins             2	
sulfamethazine plus	
  sulfathiazole                Extra-Sul                      15	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
This list should be used as a guide.  Preslaughter withdrawal times may change.  
Any approved animal drug with zero withdrawal time is not included.  Please 
read and observe the label withdrawal instructions.	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
                 SWINE DRUGS THAT DO NOT REQUIRE WITHDRAWAL TIMES	
	
Second Generation Drugs with Maximum Potency Permitted in Type B Feed	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
ACTIVE                           BRAND                      
INGREDIENT                       NAME                       RATE	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
bactricacin methylene 	
  disalicylate                 Bacitracin MD             20.0 g/lb., 5%	
bambermycins                   Bambermycin               0.4 g/lb., 4.4%	
chlortetracycline              Aureomycin                40.0 g/lb., 8.8%	
dichlorvos                     Atgard                    33.0 g/lb., 7.3%	
erythromycin thiocyanate       Gallimycin                9.25 g/lb., 2.04%	
fenbendazole                   Safeguard                 4.54 g/lb., 1.0%	
lincomycin                     Lincomix                  < 10.0 g/lb.	
oxytetracycline                Terramycin                20.0 g/lb., 4.4%	
penicillin,     	
  streptomycin                 Combiotic                 7.5 g/lb., 1.65%	
tylosin                        Tylan                     10.0 g/lb., 2.2%	
virginiamycin                  Stafan                    10.0 g/lb., 2.2%	
fenbendazole	
_____________________________________________________________________________	












-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TEN DRUG USE TIPS	                                 
-DOC-
                                 TEN DRUG USE TIPS	
                      R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
1.  Read the label carefully - labeling directions change frequently.	 
2.  Use drugs only in animal species listed on the label - drugs used in other 
    species may cause adverse reactions or illegal residues.	 
3.  Use the proper dose for the species and size of animal to be treated - 
    overdosing can cause illegal residues.	 
4.  Calculate preslaughter drug withdrawal and milk discard times accurately - 
    withdrawal and discard times begin with the last drug administration.	 
5.  Use the correct route of administration - giving drugs incorrectly can lead 
    to drug ineffectiveness, adverse reactions, illegal residues, and possible 
    animal deaths.	 
6.  Do not "double dose" - use of the same drug in the feed and by injection 
    can cause illegal residues.	 
7.  Select needle sizes and injection sites carefully, if injections are 
    necessary - misuse can lead to tissue damage, reduced effectiveness, and/or 
    illegal residues.	 
8.  Allow proper withdrawal time for feed containing drugs - during the 
    withdrawal time, storage bins and feeders must be completely free of 
    medicated feed and only drug-free feed should be used illegal residues may 
    result.	 
9.  Keep accurate records of drugs used and animals dosed - poor records can be 
    costly if drug residue violations occur.	 
10. Seek the advice of your veterinarian - your records will allow him/her to 
    provide safer and more effective treatment and save you money by preventing 
    illegal residues.	 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TURKEY DRUG LIST	                                  
-DOC-
                                  TURKEY DRUG LIST	
                         R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
ACTIVE                      WITHDRAWAL        BRAND NAME	
INGREDIENTS                    DAYS           EXAMPLES	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
arsenicals:                     5             Pro-Gen; Polystat-3; 3-Nitro	
  arsanilic acid	
  sodium arsanilate	
  roxarsone	
butynorate                      5             Custom Mix QNB	
carbarsone                      5             Carb-O-Sep; Carb-O-Gain; BMD-	
                                              COS	
clopidol                        5             Coyden 25	
dibutyltin dilaurate            7             Tinostat	
dihydrostreptomycin	
  (injectable)                 30             Various Brand Names	
dihydrostreptomycin              
  sulfate and streptomycin	
  sulfate (injectable)	        30             Bi-Strep	
dimetridazole                   5             Emtryl; Emtrymix	
erythromycin ethyl succinate    1 (water)     Gallimycin	
furazolidone                    5             NF-180	
gentamicin sulfate	
  (injectable)                 63 (9 weeks)   Garasol	
ipronidazole                    4 (feed)      Ipropran	
ipronidazole hydrochloride      5 (water)     Ipropran Soluble Powder	
nitarsone                       5             Histostat-50	
novobiocin                      4             Albamix	
oxytetracycline                 5             Terramycin Injectable Solution	
penicillin G potassium          1 (water)     Penicillin G; Potassium U.S.P.	
procaine penicillin G and	
  dihydro-streptomycin	
  sulfate (injectable)         30             Mycillin-V	
sulfadimethoxine alone, with	
  ormetoprim, or with	
  ormetoprim and	
  ipronidazole                  5             Agribon; Albon; Rofenaid and	
                                              Ipropran	
sulfamethazine                 10             Sulmet	
sulfaquinoxaline               10             SQ Powder; SQ Solubilized 25%	
                                              VET; 20% Sulfaquinoxaline	
                                              Solution	
tetracycline hydrochloride      4 (water)     Numerous Brand Names	
_____________________________________________________________________________	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NONCROPLAND WEED CONTROL                           
-DOC-
                           NONCROPLAND WEED CONTROL
                    J. B. Aitken, Extension Horticulturist
                      E. C. Murdock, Extension Agronomist
 
This section is designed to give recommendations for noncropland weed control 
where control of vegetation is desired for one or more years.  Examples of 
noncropland areas are railroads, highways, petroleum farm tanks, lumberyards, 
storage areas, industrial plant sites, and farm buildings.
 
Most of the chemicals recommended in this section may cause injury or loss of 
desirable trees or other plants if these chemicals are misused.  Do not apply 
or drain or flush equipment on or near desirable trees or other plants.  Also 
do not apply to areas where roots of desirable species may extend.  On sloping 
land, be aware of possible movement of these chemicals due to erosion of the 
soil.
 
Review label on each chemical for list of weeds that will be controlled.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HERBACEOUS PLANTS                               
-DOC-
                               HERBACEOUS PLANTS
                    J. B. Aitken, Extension Horticulturist
                      E. C. Murdock, Extension Agronomist
 
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses and     glyphosate    4 lb/gal       1.0 to 2.0 qt   1.0 to 2.0
broadleaf weeds          ROUNDUP
Perennial grasses                                   2.0 to 5.0 qt   2.0 to 5.0
and broadleaf weeds
REMARKS:  Apply to foliage.  No residual soil activity.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Most grasses and       R paraquat    1.5 lb/gal     2.5 pt          0.47
broadleaf weeds          GRAMOXONE
                         SUPER
REMARKS:  Full coverage of foliage is necessary.  Paraquat is a contact 
material that has no soil activity.  It is a poisonous material and should be 
handled with care.  A nonionic surfactant is needed.  Repeat as needed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.                           
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses         dalapon                      4.0 to          3.0 to 7.5
                         DOWPON M 74%               10.0 lb
Perennial                                           15.0 to         11.0 to
grasses                                             30.0 lb         22.0
REMARKS:  Treat grasses when they are actively growing.  A second application 
may be needed in 2-4 wk after first application.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Annual and             fluazifop-                   1.0-1.5 qt     0.25-0.375
perennial              butyl  
grasses                FUSILADE 2000
REMARKS:  Apply to actively growing grasses before they exceed the recommended 
growth stages on label.  Add 1 qt crop oil/25 gal water or 1 pt nonionic 
surfactant/25 gal water.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual and             amitrole      2 lb/gal       1.0 to          2.0 to 4.0
perennial grasses        AMITROL-T                  2.0 gal
and broadleaf
weeds
REMARKS:  Refer to label for application instructions.  For bermudagrass, use 
4.0 gal/ac.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Annual grasses         amitrole +    15 + 45% WP    20.0 lb         3.0
and broadleaf          simazine                                     amitrole
weeds                    AMIZINE                                       +
                       15 + 45% WP                                  9.0 
                                                                    simazine
REMARKS:  Apply Amizine to small weeds in the spring or early summer or before 
weeds have matured and gone to seed.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual broadleaf       2,4-D         3.8 or 4.0     2.0 to 3.0 pt   1.0 to 1.5
weeds                  (various
Perennial              trade names)                 4.0 to 8.0 pt   2.0 to 4.0
broadleaf weeds        
REMARKS:  Apply when weeds are young and growing vigorously.  Avoid spray 
drifting to desirable shrubs or other broadleaf plants. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Annual grasses         diuron        80W            5.0 to 20.0     4.0 to
and broadleaf            KARMEX                     lb              16.0
weeds Perennial                                     20.0 to 60.0    16 to 48.0
weeds                                               lb
REMARKS:  Apply as a preemergence treatment any time of year except when 
ground is frozen.  If emerged weeds are present, add surfactant. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual weeds           diuron        4 lb/gal       1.0-4.0 gal     4.0-16.0
Perennial weeds          DIREX 4L                   4.0-8.0 gal     16.0-64.0
REMARKS:  Apply as preemergence treatment any time of year except when ground 
is frozen.  Best results obtained if applied before growth begins.  If emerged 
weeds are present, add surfactant. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Annual grasses         bromacil      80W            3.0 to 6.0 lb   2.4 to 4.8
and broadleaf            HYVAR X                         or
weeds                                               1.5 to 3.0 gal 
                            or
Perennial grasses         HYVAR XL   2 lb/gal       7.0 to 12.0 lb  5.6 to 9.6
and broadleaf weeds                                      or
                                                    3.0 to 6.0 gal
 
Bermudagrass,                                       15.0 to 30.0    12.0 to 
johnsongrass,                                       lb              24.0
nutsedge                                                  or
                                                    6.0 to 12.0 gal
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses         bromacil +                   4.0 to 6.0 lb   3.2 to 4.8
and broadleaf          diuron
weeds                              
Perennial grasses      KROVAR I      80W            7.0 to 18.0     5.6 to 
and broadleaf                                       lb              14.4
weeds
 
Johnsongrass,          0.4 lb bromacil              19.0 to 40.0    15.2 to 32
nutsedge                   +
                       0.4 lb diuron
REMARKS:  Apply just before or shortly after weed emergence using 40-100 gal 
water/ac.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses           KROVAR II   80DF           2.0 to 5.0 lb   1.6 to 4
and broadleaf          
Perennial grasses      bromacil                     6.0 to 14.0     4.8 to 
and broadleaf                                       lb              11.2
weeds                  0.53 lb
                          +
Johnsongrass,          diuron                       15.0 to 30.0    12 to 24
bermudagrass,          0.27 lb                      lb
nutsedge
REMARKS:  See remarks under Krovar I.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses         atrazine
and broadleaf          (various      80W            6.2 to 12.5 lb  4.8 to 
weeds                  trade names)                                 10.0
                                                          or
                                     4L             4.8 to 10.0
                                                    qt
                                                          or                              
                                     NINE-O         5.3 to 11.1 lb                                                                     5.3 to 11.1 lb
                                                        (NINE-0)
Hard-to-kill                                        12.5 to 25.0    10.0 to 
annual and                                          lb              20.0
perennial grasses                                         or
                                                    10.0 to 20.0
                                                    qt
                                                         or
                                                    11.1 to 22.2
                                                    lb
                                                    (NINE-O)
REMARKS:  Apply before or soon after weeds begin to grow.  Use enough water to 
cover thoroughly.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual weeds           ARSENAL       2 lb ai/gal    2.0-4.0 pts     0.5-1.0
Biennial and                                        2.0-6.0 pts     0.5-1.5
perennial weeds
REMARKS:  Consult label for specific rate for weeds involved.  Uniformly apply 
in 30-60 gal water/ac.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Annual grasses         prometon                     0.5 to 1.0 lb
and broadleaf          (5%)                         100 sq ft
weeds                     +
                       simazine
                       (0.75%)
                           +
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Perennial grasses      sodium                       1.0 to 2.0 lb/
and broadleaf          chlorate                     100 sq ft
weeds                  (40%)
                         +
                       sodium
                       metaborate
                       (50%)
                         PRAMITOL 5 PS
REMARKS:  Can be applied before or after plant growth begins.  Since Pramitol 
enters plants through their roots, its effectiveness depends on rainfall to 
move the chemical into root zone.  When applied to soil surface, this product 
usually inhibits all plant growth for 1 yr or more.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses         prometon      2 lb/gal       5.0 to 7.5      10.0 to 
and broadleaf            PRAMITOL                   gal             15.0
weeds and some           25E                   
perennials
                                          
Hard-to-kill                                        20.0 to         40.0 to
perennials such                                     30.0 gal        60.0
johnsongrass,
binchweed, and
wild carrot
REMARKS:  Can be applied before or up to 3 mo after weed emergence.  For 
faster top-kill of vegetation, apply in diesel oil, fuel oil, or weed oil at 
rates of 100-200 gal/ac.  Application to soil surface usually inhibits plant 
growth for 1 yr or more.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses         simazine      80W            6.0 to 12.5     4.8 to 
and broadleaf                                       lb              10.0
weeds                    PRINCEP     or                  or
                                     4L             4.8 to 10.0
                                                    qt
                       or            or                  or
                                     90DF           5.3 to 11.1
                                                    lb
                                                    
Annual and                                          12.5 to 25.0    10.0 to
perennial                                           lb              20.0
grasses and                                               or
broadleaf weeds                                     2.5 to 5.0
                                                    gal 
                                                          or
                                                    11.1 to 22.2
                                                    lb
REMARKS:  Apply before weeds emerge.  Use enough water to ensure adequate 
coverage.  If weeds are present, add a contact or translocated herbicide.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Annual broadleaf       dicamba       4 lb/gal       0.5 to 1.5      0.25 to 
weeds                    BANVEL                     pt              0.75
 
Perennial broadleaf                                 1.0 to 3.0      1.0 to 3.0
weeds                                               qt
REMARKS:  Apply when weeds are actively growing.  Use high rate for 
established weed growth.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Many annual and        tebuthiuron   80W            5.0 to 7.5      4.0-6.0
perennial weeds          SPIKE                      lb
 
Hard-to-kill                                        10.0-20.0 lb    8.0-16.0
annual and perennial
weeds
REMARKS:  Apply before or during the period of active growth of plants to be 
controlled.  Initial control is enhanced by rainfall.  Consult label for full 
list of weed species controlled by each rate.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Preemergence to        sulfometuron  75DG           3-5 oz          0.14-0.23
early postemergence      methyl
of many annual and       OUST 
perennial grasses 
and broadleaf
weeds
 
Early postemergence                                 6-12 oz         0.28-0.56
of many broadleaf
weeds and johnsongrass
and nutsedge
REMARKS:  For nonselective postemergence application, a nonionic surfactant 
may be added at rate of 1 qt/100 gal spray to improve wetting and/or contact 
activity.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
HERBACEOUS PLANTS
_______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED     PESTICIDE       FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Short-term control     hexazinone    90SP           2.0 to 5.0 lb   1.8 to 4.5
of annual, biennial,     VELPAR
and perennial weeds
 
Season-long control                                 6.0 to 12.0 lb  5.4 to 
of annual, biennial,                                lb              10.80
and perennial weeds
(Consult label for
specific species.)
Apply as a postemergence spray during active plant growth.  Add nonionic 
surfactant at the rate of 1 qt/100 gal of spray to improve wetting for contact 
activity.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Same as Velpar 90SP    hexazone      2 lb/gal       1.0 to 2.5      2.0 to 5.0
                         VELPAR L                   3.0 to 6.0      6.0 to 
                                                    gal             12.0
REMARKS:  Same as Velpar 90SP.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOIL STERILANTS                                
-DOC-
                                SOIL STERILANTS
                    J. B. Aitken, Extension Horticulturist
                      E. C. Murdock, Extension Agronomist
______________________________________________________________________________                                               
WEEDS CONTROLLED       PESTICIDE     FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual and perennial   prometon      2 lb/gal       20.0 to 25.0    40 to 50
weeds                    PRAMITOL
                       25E                          
REMARKS:  FOR WEED CONTROL UNDER ASPHALT.  Prepare site according to label 
directions.  Apply just before laying asphalt coating.  Do not use under 
asphalt coatings less than 2 in thick.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Annual broadleaf       atrazine                     5.3-11.1 lb     4.8-10.0
and grass weeds          
                         90 DP
Most annual and                                     11.1-22.2 lb    10.0-20.0
perennial broadleaf
and grass weeds
Hard-to-kill biennial                               22.2-44.4 lb    20.0-40.0
and perennial weeds
REMARKS:  Use sufficient water to assure thorough ground and plant coverage.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WOODY PLANTS                                 
-DOC-
                                 WOODY PLANTS
                    J. B. Aitken, Extension Horticulturist
                      E. C. Murdock, Extension Agronomist
 
______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED       PESTICIDE     FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC
______________________________________________________________________________
Oak, willow,           bromacil      80W            7.0 to 12.0     5.6 to 9.6
sweetgum, and pine       HYVAR X                    lb
 
American elm,                                       15.0 to 30.0    12.0 to 
hackberry, sumac,                                   lb              24.0
and cottonwood
                         HYVAR X-L   2 lb/gal       2.25 to 5.0     4.5 to 
                                                    gal             10.0
Same as Hyvar X
                                                    6.0 to 12.0     12.0 to
                                                    gal             24.0
REMARKS:  Apply in spring or summer.  Effects are slow to appear and may not 
become apparent until the chemical has been carried into the root zone of the 
plants by moisture.  For spot treatment, mix 2.5 lb of 80W or 1 gal of 2 
lb/gal in 5 gal of water and apply at rate of 1 to 2 fl oz/2-in to 4-in stem 
in basal diameter.  Read label for specific limitations.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
WOODY PLANTS
______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED       PESTICIDE     FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC
______________________________________________________________________________
Poison ivy, poison     amitrole      2 lb/gal       1.0 to 2.0/gal
oak, honeysuckle,        AMITROL-T                  100 gal water
kudzu, blackberry,
ash, sumac, locust
REMARKS:  Treat from the time foliage is fully developed until plants begin to 
go dormant.  For effective kill, thoroughly wet all leaves, stems, and suckers 
to ground line.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Maple, locust, aspen,  picloram      2.3%           300-400 lb      7.0-9.0 lb
wild grape               TORDON
                         2K Pellets
REMARKS:  Apply any time during normal growing season where sufficient 
moisture is available to carry the herbicide into the soil.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Elderberry, locust,    2,4-D         4 lb/gal       3.0-4.0 qt      3 to 4
sumac, willow          (various
                       trade names)
REMARKS:  Wet all parts of brush.  This can be done up to 3 wk before frost.
WOODY PLANTS
______________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED       PESTICIDE     FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC
______________________________________________________________________________
Ash, cherry,           dicamba       4 lb/gal       2.0 to 3.0 qt   2.0 to 3.0
honeysuckle,             BANVEL
poison ivy, wild
plum, poison oak,
multiflora rose.
REMARKS:  Generally used as a tankmix with 2,4-D.  Apply after leaves are 
fully developed until 3 wk before frost.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Woody brush            fosamine      4 lb/gal       1.5 to 6.0      6.0 to 
(Consult label           KRENITE                    gal             24.0 lb
for specific
species.)
REMARKS:  Apply during the 2-mo period before full leaf coloration.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHEMICAL MOWING                                
-DOC-
                                CHEMICAL MOWING
                    J. B. Aitken, Extension Horticulturist
                      E. C. Murdock, Extension Agronomist
 
________________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED       PESTICIDE     FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC
________________________________________________________________________________
Apply 1-2 wk after     glyphosate    4 lb/gal       6 fl oz         0.19
full greenup of          ROUNDUP
bahiagrass or soon
after bahiagrass
has been mowed to
uniform height of
3-5 in.  Sequential
applications may be
made at approximately 
45-day intervals to 
extend period of seed-
head suppression.
Apply no more than
two sequential 
CHEMICAL MOWING
________________________________________________________________________________
WEEDS CONTROLLED       PESTICIDE     FORMULATION    PRODUCT/AC      LB/AI/AC
________________________________________________________________________________
applications/yr.  As
first sequential
application, apply 4 
fl oz of product/ac.
As second sequential
application, apply
2-4 fl oz of product/ac.
REMARKS:  Bahiagrass Seedhead and Vegetative Suppression.  Add nonionic 
surfactant at 0.5-1.0% of total spray volume of 10-25 gal/ac.  Use 
0.5%concentration when using surfactants that contain at least 50% active 
ingredients or 1% concentration when using surfactants that contain less than 
50% active ingredients.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FOREST WEED CONTROL                              
-DOC-
                              FOREST WEED CONTROL
                        L. R. Nelson, Extension Forester
                       
     This section gives recommendations for the use of herbicides in forestry 
practices.  Recommended herbicides can be used to convert low-grade hardwood 
stands to pine or to selectively favor the better hardwood species in the 
stand.  Herbicides can also be used to release young pines from hardwood 
competition.  A section is included on herbicides suitable for control of 
grasses and weeds in Christmas tree plantations.  All herbicides recommended 
have been approved for use on certain species at specified rates.  Read the 
label carefully to make sure the particular product is approved for the 
intended use. 
     Most herbicides recommended for forestry use can cause injury or loss of 
desirable plants when misused.  Certain precautions should be taken to prevent 
loss of desirable plants and other harmful effects on the environment.  Do not 
apply herbicides or drain or flush equipment near desirable plants or water 
sources.  Use care in applying chemicals on sloping land because of possible 
herbicide runoff and erosion of contaminated soil into water sources or areas 
with desirable plants.  Some herbicides have a longer residual effect than 
others.  Specified waiting periods must be followed before replanting.  
Additionally, there is danger of drift with some herbicides; this should be 
considered before use. 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STAND CONVERSION AND SITE PREPARATION                     
-DOC-
                     STAND CONVERSION AND SITE PREPARATION

TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
dicamba 13.3%     Ailanthus, alder, basswood,    Tree Injection--Inject 1 ml
  BANVEL CST      birch, cedar, cherry, cotton-  undiluted herbicide through
                  wood, dogwood, elm, fir, gum,  bark to penetrate sapwood at
                  hawthorn, hickory, hornbeam,   intervals of 1 to 2 in
                  maple, oak, persimmon,         completely around tree.
                  poplar, sassafras, service-    Frill or Girdle--Spray or
                  berry, sourwood, sumac,        paint with undiluted herbi-
                  sweetbay, sycamore, willow.    cide in continuous cut or
                                                 overlapping axe cuts 
                                                 completely around tree.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
dicamba 13.3%                                    Stump Treatment--Spray or
  Banvel CST                                     paint freshly cut surface with
  (cont)                                         undiluted herbicide.
REMARKS:  Do not contaminate irrigation or domestic-use water.  Desirable 
plants may be injured by root uptake of herbicide from excretion by roots of 
treated trees.  Do not allow drift onto sensitive crops or other broadleaf 
plants.  With stump treatment, it is vital to cover cambium area next to bark.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
2,4-D 46.3%       a.  Hardwoods such as elm,     Tree Injection--a.  Inject 1 
  DMA 4           hickory, oaks, and             ml  herbicide  through bark at
                  sweetgum.                      intervals of 1 to 3 in between
                                                 injector wounds.  Continuous
                  b.  Harder-to-control species  cuts often provide improved
                  such as ash, maples, or        control.
                  dogwood.                       b.  Inject 2 ml undiluted
                                                 herbicide spaced as above.
REMARKS:  Treatment can be made at any season; however, effectiveness may be
less during winter months.  Injection near ground level may be more effective.
_______________________________________________________________________________
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
2,4-D 46.8%       Injected trees.                Tree Injection--Mix 1 gal 
  WEEDAR 64                                      herbicide in 19 gal water for
                                                 dilute injections OR use 1-2
                                                 ml of herbicide/injection.  
                                                 Use one injection/in of tree
                                                 diameter measured 4 1/2 ft
                                                 above ground.  Overlap in-
                                                 jections for resistant species
                                                 such a hickory.
REMARKS:  Make injections as near root collar as possible.  For best results, 
injections should be made during the growing season.  Injector bit must pene-
trate inner bark.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
2.4-D 49.5%       a.  Hardwoods such as elm,     Tree Injection--a.  Inject 1 
  amine           hickory, oak, sweetgum.        ml undiluted herbicide through
  WEED-RHAP A-4D                                 bark as near root collar as
                                                 possible.  Use one evenly 
                                                 spaced injection/in of tree 
                  b.  Harder-to-control          diameter measured 4 1/2 ft 
                  species such as ash,           above ground.
                  dogwood, maples.               b.  Inject 2 ml undiluted 
                                                 herbicide spaced as above.
REMARKS:  Treatment can be made any season; however, applications during the 
growing season are most effective.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
2,4-D 56.5%       Elm, hickory, oaks, sweet-     Tree Injection--
  amine           gum, dogwood, ash, maples.     Inject 1 ml undiluted herbi-
  FORMULA 40                                     cide through bark around trunk
                                                 at 1-to-3-in intervals between
                                                 injector wounds.  Use 2 ml for
                                                 resistant species such as ash,
                                                 maple, and dogwood. Effec-
                                                 tiveness may be increased by
                                                 continuous cuts around bark or
                                                 injections near ground level.
REMARKS:  Treatment can be made any season;  however, applications during the 
growing season are most effective.  Maples should not be treated during spring
sap flow.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
dicamba + 2,4-D   Alder, ash, basswood,cedar,    Hydraulic Spray--
12.82 + 24.58%    cherry, chinquapin, cucum-     Mix 1 gal herbicide with 99  
  WS              ber tree, gum, dogwood, elm,   gal water.  Apply 200-300 gal
  BANVEL 720      hornbeam, locust, maple,       mix/ac.
                  oak, persimmon, pine, poplar,  Backpack Mistblower--
                  sassafras, serviceberry,       Mix 9 gal herbicide with 91
                  spicebush, sumac, sycamore,    gal water.  Apply 30-35 gal
                  wild plum, willow, witch-      mix/ac.
                  hazel, yaupon and others.      Aerial Application--
                                                 Mix 3 gal herbicide with 12 or
                                                 27 gal water.  Apply 15 or 30 
                                                 gal mix/ac.
REMARKS:  Apply after leaves are fully developed until 3 wk before frost.
May also be used for control of annual and perennial weeds and vines.  Do not
apply to desirable hardwoods or pines.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
dicamba + 2,4-D   Ash, blackberry, black         Aerial Application--
+ dichlorprop     cherry, black locust,          Mix 1 to 2 gal herbicide with 
5.38 + 32.48      brambles, cedar, cotton-       10 to 20 gal water/ac or mix
+ 30.66%          wood, dogwood, elm, goose-     1 gal Super Brush Killer with
  SUPER BRUSH     berry, honey locust, honey-    1 pt Garlon 4 in 10 to 20 gal
  KILLER          suckle, kudzu, maple, multi-   water/ac as follows:  Mix the
                  flora rose, oak, pine, sumac,  herbicide with 1/3 of the 
                  sycamore, wild plum, willow.   water.  Add the second 1/3 of
                                                 the water and then Garlon 4.
                                                 Next add the balance of water.
                                                 Agitate continuously during 
                                                 all three steps.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
See next page.
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
dicamba + 2,4-D   
+ dichlorprop     
5.38 + 32.48      
+ 30.66%          
  SUPER BRUSH     
  KILLER (cont)         
REMARKS:  Avoid spraying near sensitive crops such as cotton, soybeans, 
tomatoes, tobacco, grapes, fruit trees, flowers, or garden crops.  Small 
quantities of wind-drifted herbicide can cause severe injury.  Do not apply 
herbicide when temperature exceeds 85 F, when wind speeds are sufficient to 
cause drift, or when temperature air inversions exist.  Use coarse sprays 
and/or chemical drift-control agents to aid drift avoidance.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
2,4-DP 59.1%      Oaks.                          Aerial or Mistblower
ester                                            Application--
  WEEDONE                                        Mix 1 to 2 gal of herbicide/ac
                                                 with 5 to 10 gal water.
REMARKS:  Apply during growing season when hardwoods are in full leaf, actively 
growing, and soil moisture is high.  Wait 14 days before transplanting pine 
seedlings into treated area.  Do not apply with mistblowers within 100 yd of 
adjacent properties.  Do not graze dairy animals within 6 wk after appliction;  
meat animals within 2 wk of slaughter.  Do not apply to desirable hardwoods or 
pines.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
2,4-DP + 2,4-D    Alder, birch, blackberry,      Aerial Application--
31.6 + 32.2%      black cherry, blackjack oak,   Apply 1 gal herbicide plus
ester             black locust, currant, goose-  1 qt Trans-vert mixed with
  WEEDONE 170     berry, honeysuckle, oaks,      water to make 10 gal/ac.
                  pine, poison ivy, poison oak,
                  poplar, red elm, red maple,
                  serviceberry, spruce, syca-
                  more, tulip poplar, willow,
                  winged elm, and others.
REMARKS:  Do not apply to established plantations.  Do not apply to desirable 
hardwoods or pines.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
fosamine 41.5%    birch, blackberry, black       Ground Spray Treatment--
ammonium salt     locust, red oak, sumac,        Mix 1 1/2 to 3 gal herbicide/
  KRENITE         sweetgum, maple, water oak,    ac with water to make 50-300
                  white oak, Virginia pine,      gal spray depending on 
                  American elder, Eastern        height, density, and type of
                  white pine, multiflora         brush and type of equipment
                  rose, slippery elm, syca-      used.
                  more, tree-of-heaven, wild     
                  grape, wild plum.              
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
See next page.
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
fosamine 41.5%                                   Aerial Application--
ammonium salt                                    Mix 1 1/2 to 3 gal herbicide/
  KRENITE                                        ac with water to make 10-40
  (cont)                                         gal spray/ac.  (Use ground
                                                 equipment on drainage ditch
                                                 banks.)  Surfactant such as
                                                 DuPont Surfactant WK should
                                                 be added at rate of 1 qt/100
                                                 gal OR Krenite S, containing
                                                 a surfactant, may be used in
                                                 ground applications only.
REMARKS:  If rainfall occurs within 24 hr, effectiveness may be decreased.  
Apply during 2-mo period before fall leaf coloration.  Do not apply to 
desirable hardwoods or pines.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
glyphosate 41.8%  Alder, berries (incl. black-   Handheld Spray Application--
isopropylamine    berry, dewberry, raspberry,    Mix 1 1/3 to 2 oz herbicide
salt              elderbery), honeysuckle,       in 1 gal water.  Apply over
  ROUNDUP         kudzu, maples (incl. red,      top of actively growing 
                  sugar), oaks (incl. red,       plants when foliage is fully 
                  Northern pin, white),          developed.
                  multiflora rose, poison ivy, 
                  trumpet creeper, willow.
REMARKS:  Best control is obtained when treated at late growth stages.  Ensure
thorough coverage.  When repeat applications are necessary, do not exceed 10.6 
qt of this product/ac/yr.  Avoid contact of spray, drift, or mist with foliage 
or green bark of desirable species.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
See next page.
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
glyphosate 41.8%  Alder, berries, (incl.         Aerial Application--
isopropylamine    blackberry, dewberry, rasp-    Use the recommended rates in
salt              berry, elderberry), honey-     5 to 15 gal water/ac.  When
  ROUNDUP(cont)   suckle, kudzu, maples (incl.   adding a drift control addi-
                  red, sugar), oaks (incl. red,  tive, Nalco-Trol II may be
                  Northern pin, white), multi-   added at 8 to 16 oz/100 gal
                  flora rose, poison ivy,        spray.
                  poison oak, trumpet creeper,   Tree Injection or Frill--
                  willow.  Sweetgum, poplar,     Apply at least 1 ml herbicide
                  oak, and sycamore will be      for each 2 to 3 in of trunk
                  controlled.  Dogwood, black-   diameter 4 1/2 ft above 
                  gum, hickory, and red maple    ground.  Space applications 
                  will be suppressed.            evenly around circumference.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
See next page.
TREE CROP:  Desirable Hardwoods and/or Pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
glyphosate 41.8%  
isopropylamine     
salt              
  ROUNDUP(cont)   
REMARKS:  As above.  Do not apply within 200 ft of any agricultural area, 
horticultural park, golf course, homestead, or populated areas.  Avoid direct 
application to any body of water.  Do not apply when winds are gusty.  See 
label for further precautions.  Application should be made during periods of 
active growth and full leaf expansion.
_______________________________________________________________________________
TREE CROP:  Pines: loblolly, longleaf, shortleaf, slash, Virginia
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 5%     Ash (green and white), birch,  Aerial and Ground Broadcast--
  PRONONE 5G      black cherry, blackgum,        Apply using ground or aerial
                  brambles (such as blackberry,  equipment calibrated to dis-
                  dewberry and raspberry),       tribute granules uniformly
                  cherry, chokeberry, dogwood,   over area to be treated.  Use
                  Eastern redcedar, elder        lb/ac as follows:  20-60 in
                  (American), elm, hawthorn,     sand, loamy sand, sandy loam;
                  hickory, hornbeam, mulberry,   60-70 in loam, sandy clay, 
                  multiflora rose, red maple,    silt loam; 60-80 in clay 
                  oaks (such as black, black-    loam, sandy clay, silt clay
                  jack, bluejack, post,          loam, silt, silt clay, clay.
                  southern red, turkey, water, 
                  white), Russian olive, sumac,
                  sourwood, sweetgum, wild
                  plum, and willow.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
See next page.
TREE CROP:  Pines: loblolly, longleaf, shortleaf, slash, Virginia
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 5%     As above plus black hickory,   Individual Stem Treatment--
  PRONONE 5G      boxelder, cottonwood,          Apply by hand to individual
  (cont)          Norway maple.                  stems at a rate of 1-1 1/2 oz
                                                 for each 1 in of diameter at
                                                 breast height.
REMARKS:  Do not apply or empty equipment near desirable plants.  Do not use 
on lawns, walks, driveways, tennis courts, or similar areas.  Use in well-
drained, coarse-to-medium textured soils.  Apply in periods of active plant 
growth (mid-spring to June 15).  At least 2 in of rain is needed for soil 
activation.
Effective on all sizes of brush, especially small stems.
As above.  Wear gloves to prevent contact with skin.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 10%    Same as for                    Aerial and Ground Broadcast-
  PRONONE 10G     Pronone 5G                     Apply using equipment to dis-
                                                 tribute granules uniformly.
                                                 Use lb/ac as follows:  10-30
                                                 in sand, loamy sand, sandy
                                                 loam; 30-35 in loam, sandy
                                                 clay, silt loan; 30-40 in 
                                                 clay loam, silt clay loam,
                                                 silt, silt clay, clay.
                                                 Individual Stem Treatment-
                                                 Apply by hand to individual
                                                 stems at a rate of 1/2-3/4
                                                 oz for each 1 in of diameter
                                                 at breast height.
REMARKS:  Same as for Pronone 5G.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 25%    Black cherry, red maple,       Tree Injection--
  VELPAR L        oaks (including live oak),     Inject 1 ml undiluted herbi-
                  and sweetgum.                  cide through bark at inter-
                                                 vals of 4 in between edges of
                                                 injector wounds.
                  Elm, wild cherry, oaks         Basal Soil Treatment--
                  (including live oak), sumac,   Apply 2-4 ml/in of tree    
                  and willow.                    diameter measured 4 1/2 ft 
                                                 above ground.  Use an exact-
                                                 delivery hand gun.  Treat 
                                                 soil within 3 ft of trunk.
REMARKS:  Apply during summer months.  When treating large trees requiring 
more than one delivery of herbicide, make applications on opposite sides of 
the tree.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 25%    Ash, birch, elm, flowering     Aerial Application--
  VELPAR L        dogwood, hawthorn, hazel,      Apply 1 to 3 gal herbicide
(cont)            hickory, oaks, red maple,      in at least 5 gal water/gal
                  sourwood, sweetgum, wild       herbicide.  Use at least 8 
                  cherry, willows, and many      gal/ac spray mixture.  To re-
                  herbaceous plants.             duce drift, a precise appli-
                                                 cation spray boom and a 
                                                 thickening agent may be used.
                                                 Ground Application--
                                                 Apply 1 to 3 gal/ac herbicide
                                                 in about 25 gal/ac water.
REMARKS:  Use higher rates on fine textured soils and hard-to-kill species.  A
surfactant and a defoaming agent may be needed.  See label.  Apply late spring 
to early summer during full leaf stage.  Do not burn after treatment until 60-
90 days after adequate rainfall and at least one complete defoliation.  
Supplemental label must be in possession of user at time of application.
_______________________________________________________________________________
TREE CROP:  Desirable hardwoods and/or pines
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
R picloram +      Elm, maple, oak, and pine.     Tree Injection--
  2,4-D                                          Inject 1/2 ml undiluted 
  10.2 + 39.6%                                   herbicide or 1 ml diluted
    TORDON 101                                   solution (1 to 1 ratio with
    MIXTURE                                      water).  Space 3 in between 
                                                 edges of injector wounds.  
                                                 Surround tree at any height.
                                                 Frill or Girdle Treatment--
                                                 Wet cut surface with diluted
                                                 solution in single girdle
                                                 around tree.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
R picloram +      Same as previous page.         Stump Treatment--
  2,4-D                                          Spray or paint surfaces of 
  10.2+39.6%                                     freshly cut stumps with un-
    TORDON 101                                   diluted herbicide or dilute
    MIXTURE                                      1 to 1 with water.
    (cont)
REMARKS:  Treatment can be made in any season.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
picloram + 2,4-D  Alder, birch, cedar, cherry,   Tree Injection--
5.4 + 20.9%       dogwood, elm, green ash,       Use 1 ml undiluted herbicide/
  TORDON 101R     gum, hawthorn, hickory,        injection with injections
  and RTU         hornbeam, maples, oaks,        spaced 2 to 3 in apart.
                  pecan, persimmon, sourwood,
                  sweetbay, and serviceberry.
REMARKS:  Hard-to-kill species (dogwood, hickory, and maples) may require 
continuous encircling injections.  Treatments can be made in any season.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
picloram + 2,4-D  Same as Tree Injection.        Frill or Girdle Treatment--
5.4 + 20.9%                                      Spray or paint with undiluted
  TORDON 101R                                    herbicide in single hack     
  and RTU                                        girdle of overlapping axe 
  (cont)                                         cuts completely around tree.
                  Same as Tree Injection.        Stump Treatment--
                                                 Spray or paint cut surfaces 
                                                 of freshly cut stumps or 
                                                 stubs with undiluted herbi-
                                                 cide.
REMARKS:  Same as above.  With stump treatment it is vital to cover cambium 
area next to bark.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
R picloram 24.0%  Broadleaf weeds: Canada        High Volume Leaf-Stem       
    TORDON K      thistle, chicory, clover,      Treatment--
                  dock, fleabane, field bind-    Mix 1/2 to 4 qt herbicide in
                  weed, goldenrod, horsenettle,  water to make 100 gal solu-
                  larkspur, leafy spurge, lu-    tion OR mix 1/2 to 1 qt 
                  pine, milkweed, sowthistle,    herbicide with 4 to 8 qt of 
                  tansy ragwort, toadflax,       Esteron 99 Concentrate or
                  wild carrot.                   Amitrol T or with 4 lb of
                                                 Amizol with water to make 100
                                                 gal of solution.  A surfac-
                                                 tant may be added.  See label
                                                 for tank mix directions.
REMARKS:  See following page.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
R picloram 24.0%  Woody plants and vines:        Spot Treatment--
    TORDON K      blackberry, buttonbush,        Mix 1/4 to 4 qt herbicide in
    (cont)        cactus, cedar, dogwood,        water to make 100 gal of 
                  fir, gum, hemlock, hickory,    solution.  Spray weeds uni-
                  juniper, liveoak, locust,      formly using 50 to 100 gal
                  maple, oak, persimmon, pine,   solution/ac.  See label for 
                  poison oak, poplar, sassa-     tank mix.
                  fras, sourwood, sumac,                                     
                  trumpetcreeper, willow.        
REMARKS:  Apply anytime growth begins in the spring before full bloom and late
in summer or fall.  See label for specific rates.  Do not plant pine seedlings 
on treated areas for at least 6 mo.  Do not contaminate water sources.  Do not 
permit herbicide to contact crops or other desirable plants.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
R picloram 24.0%  Same as previous page.         Broadcast Ground or Aerial
    TORDON K                                     Foliage Treatment--
    (cont)                                       Mix 1/4 to 4 qt herbicide in
                                                 water to make 5 to 50 gal of
                                                 solution/ac depending on the
                                                 weed species height and       
                                                 density of growth.  A mini-
                                                 mum of 15 gal is preferred.
REMARKS:  Same as previous page.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
triclopyr 44.4%   Hard to control:  ash,         Aerial Application--
triethylamine     blackgum, chokecherry, elm,     (Helicopter only)
salt              maples, oaks, pines, or        Mix 2-3 gal herbicide with 
  GARLON 3A       winged elm.  Other:  alder,    1/4 - 1 pt agricultural sur-
                  beech, birch, blackberry,      factant OR 1-1 1/2 gal herbi-
                  cherry, cottonwood, dog-       cide with 1-2 gal Esteron 99C
                  wood, elderberry, hawthorn,    or Tordon 101 Mixture in tank
                  hazel, hickory, hornbeam,      mix.  Apply in total spray
                  locust, mulberry, persimmon,   volume of 10-30 gal/ac.  
                  poison oak, poplar, sassafras, Apply with a suitable drift
                  sumac, sweetbay magnolia,      control agent such as Nalco-
                  sweetgum, sycamore, tulip      Trol with the Microfoil boom.
                  poplar, willow and other woody 
                  plants and broadleaf weeds.
REMARKS:  See end of section.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
triclopyr 44.4%   Same as aerial application.    Ground High-Volume Spray   
triethylamine                                    Treatment--
salt                                             Mix 1/2 to 1 gal herbicide in
  GARLON 3A                                      water to make 100 gal solu-
  (cont)                                         tion OR 1/4 to 1/2 gal tank-
                                                 mixed with 1/4 to 1/2 gal 
                                                 DMA4, Esteron 99C, or Tordon
                                                 101 Mixture, diluted to make
                                                 100 gal solution.  Apply 100
                                                 to 400 gal/ac.  Do not apply
                                                 with nozzles that produce a
                                                 fine-droplet spray.
REMARKS:  See end of section.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
triclopyr 44.4%   Same as aerial application.    Ground Low-Volume Spray  
triethylamine                                    Treatment--
salt                                             Mix 2 to 3 gal herbicide and
  GARLON 3A                                      1/4 to 1 pt surfactant OR 1/2
  (cont)                                         to 1 gal herbicide mixed with
                                                 1 to 2 gal DMA4, Esteron 99C 
                                                 or Tordon 101 Mixture in 
                                                 enough water to make 20-100 
                                                 gal spray/ac.
REMARKS:  See end of section.                    
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
triclopyr 44.4%   Hardwood species such as       Tree Injection--
triethylamine     elm, maple, oak, and           Inject 1/2 ml undiluted or 1 
salt              conifers.                      ml diluted herbicide, 1 to 1 
  GARLON 3A                                      ratio with water, at 
  (cont)                                         intervals of 3 in between 
                                                 edges of injector wounds.
                                                 Injections should completely
                                                 surround the tree at any 
                                                 convenient height.
REMARKS:  See end of section.         
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
triclopyr 44.4%   Same as Tree Injection.        Frill or Girdle Treatment--
triethylamine                                    Wet cut surface with diluted
salt                                             herbicide, 1 to 1 ratio with
  GARLON 3A                                      water, in a single girdle   
  (cont)                                         around tree.  Treatment can 
                                                 be made at any convenient
                                                 height.
REMARKS:  See end of section.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
triclopyr 44.4%   Same as Tree Injection.        Stump Treatment--
triethylamine                                    Spray or paint cut surfaces 
salt                                             of freshly cut stumps or 
  GARLON 3A                                      stubs with undiluted herbi-
  (cont)                                         cide.  It is vital to cover
                                                 cambium area next to bark.
REMARKS:  Apply when woody plants are actively growing.  Use higher rates on
hard-to-control species, in late summer when plants are mature, and/or dur-
ing drought conditions.  Do not contaminate water sources. Do not graze
treated areas or feed treated forage. Do not use for conifer release. Do not
plant conifer seedlings on treated areas for at least 6 mo. Do not apply to
desirable hardwoods.         
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
triclopyr 61.6%   Alder, ash, beech, birch,      Aerial Application (Heli-
butoxyethyl       blackberry, blackgum,          copter only)--Apply 4 to 8 qt
ester             cherry, cottonwood, dog-       of herbicide in a total spray
  GARLON 4        wood, elderberry, elm,         volume of 10-30 gal/ac or 3
                  hawthorn, hickory, horn-       to 4 qt herbicide with 1-2
                  beam, locust, maples, mul-     gal Esteron 99C or Tordon 101
                  berry, oaks, persimmon,        Mixture in a tank mix in a
                  pine, poison oak, poplar,      total spray volume of 10-30
                  sassafras, sumac, sweetbay     gal/ac.  Apply with a suit-
                  magnolia, sweetgum, sycamore,  able drift-control agent such
                  tulip poplar, willow,          as Nalco-Trol with the Micro-
                  winged elm.                    foil boom.                 
REMARKS:  See below.           
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
triclopyr         Same as Aerial Application.    Ground High-Volume Spray
butyoxyethyl                                     Treatment--Apply 1 to 3 qt in
ester                                            water to make 100 gal OR tank
  GARLON 4                                       mix 1 1/2 to 3 pt herbicide 
  (cont)                                         with 1/4 to 1/2 gal Esteron
                                                 99C or Tordon 101 in total
                                                 volume of 100 gal.  Apply 100 
                                                 to 400 gal total spray/ac.  
                                                 Do not use pressure exceeding 
                                                 50 psi at nozzle.  Apply with
                                                 suitable drift control agent
                                                 such as Nalco-Trol.  Do not
                                                 spray within 400 ft of 
                                                 sensitive crops.
REMARKS:  See below.        
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
triclopyr         Same as Aerial Application.    Ground Low-Volume Spray
butoxtethyl                                      Treatment--
ester                                            Apply 4 to 8 qt herbicide in
  GARLON 4                                       water to make 20-100 gal/ac 
  (cont)                                         OR use 3 pt to 3 qt with 1 to
                                                 2 gal Esteron 99C or Tordon
                                                 101 Mixture in water to make
                                                 20 to 100 gal/ac.  Do not use
                                                 pressure exceeding 40 psi at
                                                 nozzle.
REMARKS:  See below.                   
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
triclopyr         Same as Aerial Application.    Basal Bark Treatment--
butoxyethyl                                      Use 1 to 2 gal herbicide in
ester                                            enough oil to make 100 gal OR
  GARLON 4                                       mix 2 gal herbicide, 25 gal
  (cont)                                         oil, and 1/2 gal Sponto 712
                                                 and add to 72.5 gal water.
REMARKS:  Apply when plants are actively growing.  Use higher rates for hard-
to-control species during late summer and/or during drought conditions.  Do 
not plant conifer seedlings on treated areas for at least 6 mo after 
treatment.  Avoid spray drift.  Do not apply when air temperature inversion 
exists. Do not contaminate irrigation or domestic-use water. Do not graze 
treated areas.  See label for precautions.  For basal bark treatment, same as 
above except apply at any season except when snow or water prevents spraying 
to ground line.  Spray basal parts up to 12 to 15 in above ground until runoff.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
triclopyr         Same as Aerial Application.    Dormant Stem Broadcast--
butoxyethyl                                      Mix 3 to 6 qt herbicide in 
ester                                            oil to make 100 gal.  Apply
  GARLON 4                                       with knapsack or power       
  (cont)                                         spraying equipment using low
                                                 pressure (20-40 psi) OR mix 6 
                                                 qt herbicide, 25 gal oil, 1/2
                                                 gal Sponto 712, and 73 gal 
                                                 water.
REMARKS:  Treat any time when brush is dormant and most of foliage has 
dropped.  May take up to 150 gal spray mixture/ac.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
triclopyr         Same as Aerial Application.    Thinline Basal Bark
butoxyethyl                                      Treatment--
ester                                            Apply undiluted product in
  GARLON 4                                       thin stream to circumference
  (cont)                                         of hardwood stems less than  
                                                 6-in diameter.  Direct chemi-
                                                 cal in horizontal stream and
                                                 approximately 6 in above 
                                                 groundline.
REMARKS:  Same as basal bark treatment.
________________________________________________________________________________


















-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PINE RELEASE                                 
-DOC-
                                 PINE RELEASE

     Herbicides recommended in this section are intended for application in 
young pine stands where competition is from small hardwoods and other competing 
vegetation.  Larger competing hardwoods may also be treated as discussed under 
the section on Stand Conversion & Site Preparation to release the young pines.
TREE CROP:  Pines:  loblolly, slash
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
glyphosate 41.0%  Black locust, cherry (black,   Aerial Application--
isopropylamine    pin), oaks, (black, southern   Apply 1 1/2 to 2 qt/ac in at
salt              red, white), persimmon, red    least 5 gal water during     
  ROUNDUP         maple, sassafras, sumac,       early autumn.
                  sweetgum, and yellow poplar.
REMARKS:  Do not apply within 200 ft of any agricultural, horticultural, park, 
golf course, homestead, or populated areas.  Do not apply within 75 ft of 
lakes, ponds, and streams used for domestic purposes or angling.  Apply only 
where the majority of weeds to be controlled are those listed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
TREE CROP:  Pines:  loblolly, longleaf, shortleaf, slash, Virginia
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 5%     Ash (green and white), birch,  Aerial and Ground Broadcast--
  PRONONE 5G      black cherry, blackgum,        Apply using equipment to dis-
                  brambles (such as blackberry,  tribute granules uniformly.  
                  dewberry and raspberry),       Use lb/ac as follows:  16 to
                  cherry, chokeberry, dogwood,   30 in sand, loamy sand, sandy
                  Eastern redcedar, elder        loam;  30 to 44 in loam, 
                  (American), elm, hawthorn,     sandy clay, silt loam; 50 to
                  hickory, hornbeam, mulberry,   60 in clay loam, sandy clay,
                  multiflora rose, red maple,    silt clay loam, silt, silt
                  oaks (such as black, black-    clay, clay.
                  jack, bluejack, post, 
                  southern red, turkey, water,
                  white). pine, Russian olive,
                  sumac, sourwood, sweetgum,
                  wild plum, and willow.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 5%     As above, and black hickory,   Individual Stem Treatment--
  PRONONE 5G      box elder, cottonwood, Norway  Apply by hand to individual
  (cont)          maple.                         stems.

REMARKS:  Apply before or during period of active growth.  At least 2 in of 
rainfall is needed for soil activation.  Do not broadcast on sites where 10% 
conifer mortality cannot be tolerated.  Treatment may injure or kill young  
conifers under stress.  Established conifers (5 yr old or ore) are usually not 
injured at recommended rates.  With individual stem treatment, wear gloves to 
avoid contact with skin.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 10%    Ash (green and white), birch,  Aerial and Ground Broadcast--
  PRONONE 10G     black cherry, blackgum,        Apply using equipment to dis-
                  brambles, (such as dewberry,   tribute granules uniformly.
                  blackberry and raspberry),     Use lb/ac as follows:  8 to 
                  cherry, chokeberry, dogwood,   15 in sand, loamy sand, sandy
                  Eastern redcedar, elder        loam;  15 to 22 in loam, 
                  (American), elm, hawthorn,     sandy clay loam, silt loam; 
                  hickory, hornbeam, mulberry,   25 to 30 in clay loam, sandy
                  multiflora rose, red maple,    clay, silt clay loam, silt,
                  oaks (such as black, black-    silt clay, clay.
                  jack, bluejack, post,
                  southern red, turkey, water,
                  white), pine, Russian olive,
                  sumac, sourwood, sweetgum,
                  wild plum, and willow.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 10%    Same as above, and black       Individual Stem Treatment--
  PRONONE 10G     hickory, boxelder, cotton-     Apply by hand to individual
                  wood, Norway maple.            stems.
REMARKS:  Apply before or during period of active growth.  At least 2 in of 
rainfall is needed for soil activation.  Do not broadcast on sites where 10% 
conifer mortality cannot be tolerated.  Treatment may injure or kill young 
conifers under stress.  Established conifers (5 yr old or more) are usually 
not injured at recommended rates.  With individual stem treatment, wear gloves 
to avoid contact with skin.
_______________________________________________________________________________
TREE CROP:  Pines:  loblolly
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 90%SP  Annual bluegrass, barnyard-    Ground Spray Treatment--    
  VELPAR          grass, bentgrass, bromegrass,  Apply as a broadcast spray in
                  catsear, common groundsel,     spring before conifer 
                  common ragweed, false dande-   budbreak.  Use directional   
                  lion, fleabane, foxtail,       spray after budbreak.  Apply
                  oxeye daisy, Pennsylvania      in at least 25 gal spray/ac
                  smartweed, velvetgrass, and    Established plantations:  use
                  wild carrot.  Treatment        1-2 lb/ac. First-year plan-
                  provides partial control of    tations:  use 1-1 1/2 lb/ac
                  curly dock, dandelion,         depending on soil texture.  
                  willowweed (fireweed),         Apply only to 2-0 or older 
                  fescue, goldenrod, horse-      transplant stock (1-0 for 
                  weed, orchardgrass, and        loblolly).  See label for de-
                  ryegrass.                      tailed directions.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 90%SP  Same as above.                 Aerial Application--
  Velpar                                         Apply as a broadcast spray in
  (cont)                                         spring before conifer bud-   
                                                 break.  Apply in at least 20
                                                 gal spray/ac.  Established
                                                 plantations: Use 1-2 lb 
                                                 herbicides/ac;  first-year
                                                 plantations;  use 1-1 1/2 lb
                                                 depending on soil texture.
  
REMARKS:  Do not use on trees which show poor vigor; do not add surfactant if 
applied over top of conifers; do not use on gravelly soils or exposed subsoils 
or on soils with 85% or more sand, sands to sandy loam with less than 2% 
organic matter nor on any soils with less than 1% organic matter.  Do not use 
on poorly drained soils.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 25%    Annual bluegrass, barnyard-    Broadcast Spray and Band
  VELPAR L        grass, bentgrass, brome-       Application--
                  grass, catsear, common         Apply as a broadcast spray 
                  groundsel, common ragweed,     in spring before conifer bud-
                  false dandelion, fleabane,     break.  Use at least 5 gal
                  foxtail, oxeye daisy,          water for each gal herbicide.
                  Pennsylvania smartweed,        A surfactant and/or defoaming
                  velvet grass, and wild         agent may be required. First-
                  carrot.  Partial control of    year plantations:  use 4 to 6
                  curly dock, dandelion,         pt herbicide/ac depending on
                  willowweed (fireweed),         soil texture.  Established
                  fescue, goldenrod, horse-      plantations:  use 4 to 8 pt 
                  weed, orchardgrass, and        herbicide/ac depending on 
                  ryegrass.                      soil texture.  For band 
                                                 application, use propor-
                                                 tionately less.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
hexazinone 25%    Continued from previous page--
  VELPAR L
  (cont)            



REMARKS:  Do not use on trees showing poor vigor.  Do not add surfactant if 
applied over top of conifers.  Allow at least 2 mo after transplanting before 
applying herbicide.  See label for directions concerning specific soil types.
________________________________________________________________________________
TREE CROP:  Pines:  loblolly, slash, Virginia
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
sulfometuron      Crabgrass, dog fennel, fescue  Ground Spray-Broadcast or
methyl 75%        fireweed, goldenrod, horse-    Band Application--
  OUST            weed, Kentucky bluegrass,      Apply 2-8 oz/ac in 25 to 50
                  nutsedge (yellow), panicum     gal spray/ac of treated area. 
                  spp., pokeweed, ragweed,       Spray can be broadcast or
                  white snakeroot, yellow        applied in a 4 to 5 ft band
                  sweetclover, common chick-     over pines using conventional
                  weed, dandelion, common        ground spray equipment.  Make
                  yarrow, pigweed, prickly        applications from late winter
                  lettuce, Russian thistle,      to mid-summer.  Best results
                  sowthistle, bahiagrass         occur just before or after  
                  and many others.               weeds have germinated.  Use 
                                                 lower rates on coarse tex-
                                                 tured soils, higher rates on
                                                 fine textured soils.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
sulfometuron      Continued from previous page--
methyl 75%
  OUST
  (cont)


REMARKS:  Herbicide is readily moved off site with runoff water.  Do not apply 
to sites with immediate drainage to lakes, streams, ponds, or any body of water 
and/or homesteads, agricultural lands, and other desirable plantings.  Do not 
apply over conifers suffering loss of vigor caused by insects, diseases, 
drought, or other stresses.  
Do not apply to poorly drained or marshy sites.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHRISTMAS TREE AND OTHER HIGH VALUE FOREST TREE PLANTINGS           
-DOC-
           CHRISTMAS TREE AND OTHER HIGH VALUE FOREST TREE PLANTINGS

TREE CROP:  Christmas trees:  pine
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
glyphosate 41.0%  Annuals: bluegrass, brome,     Preplant Treatment--
isopropylamine    crabgrass, fleabane, foxtail,  Broadcast or band apply water
salt              kochia, common lambsquarters,  base spray at recommended 
  ROUNDUP         prickly lettuce, panicum,      rates to control undesirable
                  pigweed, ragweed (common and   species (1 - 5 qt/ac).
                  giant), sandbur, and others.
                  Perennials:  bermudagrass,     Postplant Treatment--
                  bahiagrass, field bindweed,    Use a directed spray toward
                  Kentucky bluegrass, dallis-    the base of established trees
                  grass, johnsongrass, quack-    at recommended rates.
                  grass, and others.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED               APPLICATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
glyphosate 41.0%  Woody brush and trees:         Same as above.
isopropylamine    berries, honeysuckle, kudzu,
salt              maple, oak, multiflora rose,
  ROUNDUP         and others.
  (cont) 

REMARKS: If used for site preparation, any silvicultural species may be 
planted.  Apply to actively growing grasses and broadleaf weeds.  Allow at 
least 7 days after treatment before tillage.  Do not apply more than 10.6 
qt/ac/yr.  
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED                APPLICATION
________________________________________________________________________________
pronamide         Annual bluegrass, downy         Postplant Treatment--
  KERB 50W        brome, volunteer grains,        Apply as a spray using 2 to 
                  orchardgrass, perennial         4 lb in 20 to 30 gal 
                  bluegrass and ryegrass,         water/ac in fall before
                  chickweed, sheep sorrel,        winter freezeup.  May be
                  quackgrass (4 lb), and          applied topically to 
                  other grasses and broad-        labeled species.
                  leaf weeds (see label).
REMARKS:  Do not apply to transplants less than 1 yr old or seedlings (1 yr 
old plants).  Most active in light- to medium-textured soils of low-organic 
content.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED                APPLICATION
________________________________________________________________________________
oxyfluorfen       Annual grasses:  barnyard-      Postplant Treatment--
  GOAL 1.6E       grass, bluegrass, large         Broadcast or band apply
                  crabgrass, wild oats, witch-    5 to 10 pt/treated ac in a
                  grass.                          minimum of 20 gal water.   
                  Broadleafs:  red clover,        Apply to bare soil 
                  white clover, annual morning-   (preemergent) or early
                  glories, dog fennel, bull       postemergent weeds in the
                  thistle, and others.            spring.
REMARKS:  May be applied over conifers before budbreak or after foliage 
hardens off.  If applied post-emergent, a surfactant (Triton Ag-98) is 
recommended at 0.25% to enhance activity.
______________________________________________________________________________
TREE CROP:  Christmas trees:  white pine, redcedar
________________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED                APPLICATION
________________________________________________________________________________
simazine          Annual morningglory, ryegrass,  Apply 2 1/2 to 5 lb/ac (2.2-
  PRINCEP 80W or  carpetweed, crabgrass, Florida  4.4 lb/ac of Caliber 90) as
  CALIBER 90      pusley, goosegrass, pigweed,    a preemerge treatment in at
                  ragweed, rattail fescue,        least 25 gal water.
                  smartweed, wiregrass, witch-
                  grass, and others (see label).
REMARKS:  Remove weed growth before application.  Do not apply to Christmas 
tree transplants less than 3 yr old.  Do not use more than once/yr.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED                APPLICATION
________________________________________________________________________________
simazine          Wide variety of annual broad-   Broadcast 50 to 100 lb/ac
  PRINCEP 4G      leaf and grass weeds.  (See     before weed emergence, or
                  label.)                         remove weed growth before
                                                  application.
REMARKS:  Remove weed growth before application.  Do not apply to Christmas 
tree transplants less than 3 yr old.  Do not apply more than once/yr.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
PESTICIDE         WEEDS CONTROLLED                APPLICATION
________________________________________________________________________________
oryzalin 75%W     The tank mix will provide       Tank mix applications with
  SURFLAN AS      preemergence control of those   Princep 80W are recommended.
                  weed species listed on the      Directed spray or overtop
                  labels for the two products.    spray a minimum of 25 gal of
                                                  water mixture.  Apply 2 to 4 
                                                  qt Surflan AS to all soil
                                                  textures and follow label
                                                  rates for Princep 80W for
                                                  different soil textures.
REMARKS:  Remove weed growth before application.  Constant agitation of the 
spray mixture is required.  One-half inch of rain or irrigation is required to 
activate the herbicides.  Overtop sprays must be washed off the seedling 
foliage.  All information pertaining to precautions and cautions on BOTH 
labels must be followed.
______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FOREST, SHADE, AND CHRISTMAS TREE INSECT CONTROL                
-DOC-
                FOREST, SHADE, AND CHRISTMAS TREE INSECT CONTROL
                         D. L. Ham, Extension Forester
                     C. S. Gorsuch, Extension Entomologist

_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Ash          Aphid         acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       2 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           fenthion BAYTEX        4EC          2 tsp
                           Isotox                              2 tbsp
                           malathion              57%EC        1.5 tsp
                           oxydemeton-methyl      2EC          1.5 tsp
                             METASYSTOX-R2
                           endosulfan THIODAN     3EC          2 tsp
REMARKS:  Treat foliage when aphids appear.  Repeat at 7- to 10-day intervals 
if needed.  Do not use Thiodan near the home.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Ash (cont)   Borer         lindane                20%AI        2 tbsp
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          4 tsp
REMARKS:  Apply in spring when buds begin to break.  Repeat in 10 to 14 days.  
Materials may be injected into tunnels and sealed with mud or clay.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Fall          chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
             webworm       Bacillus thuringiensis              Follow label
                             THURICIDE, DIPEL                    directions
                           malathion              57%EC        2 tsp
                           trichlorfon DYLOX      80%SP        2-3 oz
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         2 tsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Spray foliage and web when web is first noticed.  Cut out webs and 
burn if practical.  Best if applied in late afternoon or early morning.  Use 
or repeat as needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Ash (cont)   Scale         ethion 2% in superior type oil      5-8 tbsp
                           superior oil                        5 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         2 tsp
                           malathion              57%EC        1 tsp
                           azinphosmethyl         50WP         2 tsp
                             GUTHION
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          2 tbsp
REMARKS:  Oil sprays should be applied as a dormant treatment in spring or 
fall.  Read label for cautions on limits of high and low temperatures at time 
of application.  Apply other materials when crawlers appear and repeat in 10 
days.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Birch        Aphid         acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       2 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           diazinon               50 WP        1 tbsp
                           fenthion BAYTEX        4EC          2 tsp
                           dimethoate CYGON       2EC          1 tsp
                           azinphosmethyl         50 WP        2 tsp
                             GUTHION
                           malathion              57%EC        1.5 tsp
                           Isotox                              2 tbsp
                           oxydemeton-methyl      2EC          1-1.5 tsp
                             METASYSTOX-R2
REMARKS:  Treat foliage when aphids appear.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Scale         Same as listed under ash.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Birch        Leaf miner    dimethoate CYGON       2EC          1 tsp
(cont)                     malathion              57%EC        2 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Treat foliage when insects appear.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Boxelder     Boxelder      carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
             bug           diazinon               50 WP        1 tbsp
REMARKS:  Primarily a house pest during warm days in fall, winter, and spring.  
Spraying tree trunks and young insects when they appear and before home 
invasion reduces the nuisance.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL 
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________ 
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL 
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
Cedar        Bagworm       acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp 
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           Bacillus thuringiensis              Follow label
                             DIPEL, THURICIDE                    directions
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           malathion              57%EC        2 tsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50 WP        2 tbsp
                           fenthion BAYTEX        4EC          2 tsp
                           trichlorfon DYLOX      80%SP        2-3 oz
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Spray foliage in early June when bags are small.  Repeat in 10 days.  
Handpick older larvae.  Spray in late afternoon.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Mite          chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           cyhexatin PLICTRAN     50W          1/2-1 tsp
                           dimethoate CYGON       2EC          4 tsp
REMARKS:  Treat when mites appear.  Repeat at 7- to 10 day intervals if needed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Cherry       Eastern tent  carbaryl SEVIN         50 WP        2 tbsp
             caterpillar   malathion              57%EC        2 tsp
             and fall      chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
             webworm       trichlorfon DYLOX      80%SP        2-3 oz
                           Bacillus thuringiensis              Follow label
                             THURICIDE, DIPEL                    directions
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         2 tsp
REMARKS:  Spray as insects begin to appear.  Cut out webs if practical.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Dogwood      Dogwood       lindane                20%AI        3 tsp
             borer and     chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          4 tsp
             dogwood
             twig borer
REMARKS:  Keep trees healthy and protect from mechanical injury.  Spray trunks 
and bases of lower branches at 7- to 10-day intervals during May and early 
June.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             black         chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          2-4 tsp
             twig borer    carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
REMARKS:  Dursban - apply three times:  March 1, June 1, and September 1.  
Sevin - Every 3-4 wk from March 1 - September 1.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Elm          Aphid         acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       2 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           Isotox                              2 tbsp
                           oxydemeton-methyl      2EC          1-1.5 tsp
                             METASYSTOX-R2
                           malathion              57%EC        1.5 tsp
                           endosulfan THIODAN     3EC          2 tsp
REMARKS: Spray when aphids are present.  Do not use Orthene on American elm.  
Do not use diazinon on Chinese elm.  Do not use Thiodan near the home or to 
treat birch.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Elm          Elm bark      chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          5 tbsp
(cont)       beetle        
REMARKS:  Apply as a dormant treatment in spring before leaves appear.  
Thoroughly cover bark on trunk, limbs, and twigs.  Apply when temperature is 
above 40 degrees F.  American and winged elms are susceptible to DED.  Chinese 
and Siberian elms are resistnt.  Sanitation:  Eliminate breeding sites such as 
broken branches, weak trees, and newly cut wood of all elms.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Elm leaf      carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
             beetle        Isotox                              3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                         R disulfoton DI-SYSTON   15G          2.5 oz/in trunk
                                                                 diameter
REMARKS:  Spray foliage when larvae first appear about the time leaves are 
fully expanded.  Repeat in 2 wk.  Di-Syston not for home garden use.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Elm          Fall          carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
(cont)       webworm       Isotox                              3 tbsp
                           Bacillus thuringiensis              Follow label
                             THURICIDE, DIPEL                  directions
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         2 tsp
                           trichlorfon DYLOX      80%SP        2-3 oz
REMARKS:  Spray foliage and web when web is first noticed.  Do not use Orthene 
on American elm.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Scale         Same as listed under Ash.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Hawthorn     Aphid         malathion              57%EC        1.5 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           endosulfan THIODAN     2EC          2 tsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       2 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           Isotox                              2 tbsp
                           oxydemeton-methyl      25%EC        1-1.5 tsp
                             METASYSTOX-R2
REMARKS:  Treat when aphids are present.  Repeat as needed.  Do not use Thiodan 
near the home or to treat birch.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Hawthorn     Lace bug      carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
(cont)                     malathion              57%EC        1 tsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                         R disulfoton DI-SYSTON   15G          2.5 oz/in trunk
                                                                 diameter
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Treat when small nymphs appear (May through September).  Repeat at 7- 
to 10-day intervals if needed.  Di-Syston not for home garden use.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Spider        cyhexatin PLICTRAN     50WP         1/2-1 tsp
             mite          diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Treat when mites are present.  Repeat at 7- to 10-day intervals if 
needed.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Hemlock      Bagworm       Bacillus thuringiensis              Follow label
                             DIPEL, THURICIDE                  directions
                           malathion              57%EC        2 tsp
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
REMARKS:  Spray in early June when bags are small.  Repeat in 10 days.  
Handpick older larvae.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Spider        demothoate CYGON       2EC          2 tsp
             mite          malathion              57%EC        1.5 tsp
                           cyhexatin PLICTRAN     50 WP        1/2-1 tsp
                           Isotox                              2 tbsp
REMARKS:  Treat when mites are present.  Repeat at 7- to 10-day intervals if 
needed.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Hickory      Twig          carbaryl SEVIN         50 WP        2 tbsp
             girdler
REMARKS:  Gather and destroy all severed branches in fall or winter.  One or 
two applications when adults are present, mid-Aug. to Sept.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Walnut        malathion              57%EC        2 tsp
             caterpillar   carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
REMARKS:  Treat when larvae are present (late June).  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Hickory      Eriophyid     carbaryl SEVIN         50 WP        2 tbsp
(cont)       mite
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Leaf stem     acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       2 tbsp 
             gall aphid    acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           oxydemeton-methyl      2EC          1-1.5 tsp
                             METASYSTOX-R
REMARKS:  Apply in spring when new growth begins.  Repeat twice at 2-wk 
intervals.
_______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Hickory      Twig          carbaryl SEVIN         50 WP        2 tbsp
             girdler
REMARKS:  Gather and destroy all severed branches in fall or winter.  One or 
two applications when adults are present, mid-Aug. to Sept.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Walnut        malathion              57%EC        2 tsp
             caterpillar   carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
REMARKS:  Treat when larvae are present (late June).  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Hickory      Eriophyid     carbaryl SEVIN         50 WP        2 tbsp
(cont)       mite
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Leaf stem     acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       2 tbsp 
             gall aphid    acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           oxydemeton-methyl      2EC          1-1.5 tsp
                             METASYSTOX-R
REMARKS:  Apply in spring when new growth begins.  Repeat twice at 2-wk 
intervals.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Holly        Southern      cyhexatin PLICTRAN     50WP         1/2-1 tsp
             red mite      chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Spray when mites are present.  Repeat at 7- to 10-day intervals if 
needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Leaf miner    acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
                           oxydemeton-methyl      25%EC        1-1.5 tsp
                             METASYSTOX-R2
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
REMARKS:  Apply to leaves when new growth begins.  A common pest of American 
holly, sometimes occurring on English holly.
_______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Holly        Southern      cyhexatin PLICTRAN     50WP         1/2-1 tsp
             red mite      chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Spray when mites are present.  Repeat at 7- to 10-day intervals if 
needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Leaf miner    acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
                           oxydemeton-methyl      25%EC        1-1.5 tsp
                             METASYSTOX-R2
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
REMARKS:  Apply to leaves when new growth begins.  A common pest of American 
holly, sometimes occurring on English holly.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Juniper      Bagworm       Bacillus thuringiensis              Follow label
                             DIPEL, THURICIDE                  directions
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
                           trichlorfon DYLOX      80%SP        2-3 oz
                           fenthion BAYTEX        4EC          2 tsp
                           dimethoate CYGON       2EC          4 tsp
                           malathion              57%EC        2 tsp
REMARKS:  Spray foliage in early June when bags are small.  Repeat in 10 days.  
Handpick older larvae.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Juniper      Spider        dimethoate CYGON       2EC          4 tsp
(cont)       mite          chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           malathion              57%EC        1.5 tsp
                           cyhexatin PLICTRAN     50WP         1/2-1 tsp
                           fenthion BAYTEX        4EC          2 tsp
                           oxydemeton-methyl      25%EC        1-1.5 tsp
                             METASYSTOX-R2
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Spray when mites are present.  Repeat at 7- to 10-day intervals if 
needed.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Locust       Locust        lindane                20%AI        2 tbsp
(black)      borer
REMARKS:  Spray tree trunks in early September.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Locust        lindane                20%AI        1 tsp
             leaf miner    malathion              57%EC        1.5 tsp
REMARKS:  Apply when foliage is developing.  Repeat in late June.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Locust       Mimosa        acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
(honey)      webworm       acephate ORTHENE       75SP         2 tsp
                           diazinon               25%EC        2 tsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          2 tsp
                           trichlorfon DYLOX      80%SP        2-3 oz.
REMARKS:  Apply as a foliar spray when adults first appear (early summer).  
Repeat twice at 4- to 5-week intervals.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Magnolia     Black twig    chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          2-4 tsp
             borer         carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         3/4 tbsp
REMARKS:  Dursban - Apply three times:  March 1, June 1, and September 1.  
Sevin - Every 3-4 wk from March 1 - September 1.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Maple        Aphid         acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       2 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           malathion              57%EC        1.5 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           endosulfan THIODAN     3EC          2 tsp
                           Isotox                              2 tbsp
REMARKS:  Treat when aphids appear.  Repeat at 7- to 10-day intervals if 
needed.  Do not apply Orthene to sugar or red maple as foliage injury may 
occur.  MALATHION MAY INJURE SUGAR MAPLE.  Do not use Thiodan near the home or 
to treat birch.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Bladder       cyhexatin PLICTRAN     50WP         1/2-1 tsp
             gall mite
REMARKS:  Spray lower leaf surface when leaves are about 1/4 expanded.  Repeat 
in 10 days.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Maple        Tent          Bacillus thuringiensis              Follow label
(cont)       caterpillar     THURICIDE, DIPEL                  directions
                           malathion              57%EC        2 tsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50 WP        2 tbsp
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Spray when caterpillars are small.  Do not apply Orthene to sugar or 
red maple.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Maple        Aphid         acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       2 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           malathion              57%EC        1.5 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           endosulfan THIODAN     3EC          2 tsp
                           Isotox                              2 tbsp
REMARKS:  Treat when aphids appear.  Repeat at 7- to 10-day intervals if 
needed.  Do not apply Orthene to sugar or red maple as foliage injury may 
occur.  MALATHION MAY INJURE SUGAR MAPLE.  Do not use Thiodan near the home or 
to treat birch.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Bladder       cyhexatin PLICTRAN     50WP         1/2-1 tsp
             gall mite
REMARKS:  Spray lower leaf surface when leaves are about 1/4 expanded.  Repeat 
in 10 days.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Maple        Tent          Bacillus thuringiensis              Follow label
(cont)       caterpillar     THURICIDE, DIPEL                  directions
                           malathion              57%EC        2 tsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50 WP        2 tbsp
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Spray when caterpillars are small.  Do not apply Orthene to sugar or 
red maple.
______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Mimosa       Mimosa        acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
             webworm       acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
                           trichlorfon DYLOX      80%SP        2-3 oz
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          2 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Apply as foliar spray when adults first appear (early summer).  
Repeat twice at 4- to 5-week intervals. 
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Oak          Aphid         oxydemeton-methyl      25%EC        1-1.5 tsp
                             METASYSTOX-R2
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           endosulfan THIODAN     3EC          2 tsp
                           Isotox                              2 tbsp
                           fenthion BAYTEX        4EC          2 tsp
                           malathion              57%EC        1.5 tsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       2 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
REMARKS:  Treat when aphids are present.  Repeat 7- to 10-day intervals if 
needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Oak          Cankerworm    Bacillus thuringiensis              Follow label
(cont)                       THURICIDE, DIPEL                    directions
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
                           diazinon               50WP         3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1-2 tsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Spray when insects begin to appear.  Use higher rate of Orthene 75SP
for larger larvae.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Oak          Fall          acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
(cont)       webworm       acephate ORTHENE       75SP         2 tsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50 WP        2 tbsp
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           malathion              57%EC        2 tsp
                           Bacillus thuringiensis              Follow label
                             THURICIDE, DIPEL                    directions
                           trichlorfon DYLOX      80%SP        2-3 oz
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Spray foliage and web when web is first noticed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Gall wasp
Remarks:  Timing of insecticide applications to control gall wasps is very 
difficult.  Since most galls cause no serious tree damage and control is 
impractical, chemical control is not recommended.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Oak          Lace bug      acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
(cont)                     acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           malathion              57%EC        1 tsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Treat when small nymphs appear (May through Sept).  Repeat at 7- to 
10-day intervals if needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Orange-       chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
             striped       carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
             oakworm       acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Treat when insects appear (late August).  Repeat at 7- to 10-day 
intervals if needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Oak          Forest tent   malathion              57%EC        2 tsp
(cont)       caterpillar   methoxychlor           25%EC        4-6 tsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         3 tbsp
                           Bacillus thuringiensis              Follow label
                             DIPEL, THURICIDE                    directions
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
REMARKS:  Spray when webs are first seen.  Repeat at 7- to 10-day intervals if 
needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Tussock       acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
             moth, white-
             marked
REMARKS:  Spray when insects appear.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine         Nantucket     acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
             pine tip      acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tbsp
             moth          azinphosmethyl         50WP         1 tbsp
                             GUTHION
                           dimethoate CYGON       2EC          4 tsp
                           fenvalerate PYDRIN     2.4EC        1/3-2/3 tsp
                           trichlorfon DYLOX      80%SP        2-3 oz
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
                           diflubenzuron          25W          Follow label
                             DIMILIN                             directions
REMARKS:  Spray application must coincide with most susceptible stage of each 
tip moth generation, the first and second larval instars.  Moth emergence may 
be determined by using pheromone traps.  After emergence, degree-days may be 
calculated using maximum and minimum daily temperatures to determine the 
optimum spray date.  Approximate dates of adult moth emergence are listed 
below.  Contact your county Extension agent for more information on calculating 
degree-days. 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine         Nantucket pine tip moth (cont)

ADULT EMERGENCE DATES FOR NANTUCKET PINE TIP MOTH WILL BE APPROXIMATELY:  

PIEDMONT - March 1, June 1, August 10.  

SANDHILL - Late February, late May, August 1.  

LOWCOUNTRY - 3rd week February, May 8, June 10, August 15.  

Weather conditions may change emergence 5 to 7 days before or after these 
dates.  NOTE:  Moth emergence indicates the time to begin calculating degree-
days, not the spray date.

 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine         Nantucket   R carbofuran FURADAN     15%G         See below
(cont)       pine tip
             moth (cont)
REMARKS:  Young Southern Pine Plantations - Apply 3.33-4.66 oz of Furadan 15G 
(depending on soil type) for each 1 in of basal diameter in early spring.  
Apply to the soil under the drip-line and incorporate with a suitable device.
Pines Planted for Christmas Trees - Make two applications/yr, one in early 
spring (before emergence of first generation of moths) and one in midsummer, 
using the rates shown for each application.  Apply to the soil under the drip-
line and incorporate with a suitable device.

           Age of Tree                Amount/Application
           First year                 3-1/3 grams (1/3 tsp)
           Second year                6-2/3 grams (2/3 tsp)
           Third year                 10 grams (1 tsp)
           Fourth year                13-1/3 grams (1-1/3 tsp)
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine         Pales       R carbofuran FURADAN     4F           See below
(cont)       weevil;                                          
             pitch-                                           
             eating                                           
             weevil (cont)                                  
REMARKS:  Apply a 1% (w/w) active slurry to pine seedling roots before 
transplanting.  Treat seedlings by dipping roots or by any other suitable 
means.  Keep roots moist until transplanted.  To prepare slurry:  Add 1/6 oz 
(2-1/2 tbsp) carbofuran 40.64% (Furadan 4F) to 1/2 gal water.  Mix thoroughly.  
Add 2 lb pulverized kaolin clay (pH 4.5) to this suspension.  Mix thoroughly.  
Will treat 150 to 200 seedlings.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted. 
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine         Pales       R carbofuran FURADAN     15%G         10 g (1 tsp)/
(cont)       weevil;                                           seedling at
             pitch-                                            transplanting
             eating                                           
             weevil                                          
             (cont)        chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   4EC          5-1/3 oz
REMARKS:  Furadan 15%G - Distribute granules in 6-in radius on the soil around 
each seedling.  Cover the granules with soil.  Do not use at planting if 
seedlings were treated with carbofuran slurry root dip.  Dursban - Spray 
foliage and stems of seedlings to the point of runoff immediately after 
transplanting.  Do not use more than 6 gal spray/ac. 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine         Pales       phosmet IMIDAN           50WP         3-1/2 lb in 5 
(cont)       weevil;                                           gal water should
             pitch-                                            treat 10,000
             eating                                            seedlings.  
             weevil                                            Agitate fre-
             (cont)                                            quently.  Make
                                                               fresh batch 
                                                               each day.
REMARKS:  Apply as a 4% top dip, dipping down to and including the root collar.
Avoid root coverage.  Swish tops of loose bundles in solution for 10-15 
seconds, drain and allow to dry before planting.  Slight needle burn and first 
year growth reduction may occur on loblolly pine.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine         Deodar        chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   4EC          5-1/3 oz
(cont)       weevil
REMARKS:  In Virginia pine Christmas tree plantations, remove dead or dying 
seedlings with weevils.  Spray surrounding seedlings to point of runoff in 
early April and in September.  Do not spray within two weeks of spraying Bravo.
Do not use more than 6 gal spray/ac. 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
             pine bark     dimethoate CYGON       2EC          4 tsp
             aphid         malathion              57%EC        1.5 tsp
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           lindane                20%AI        1 tsp
                           endosulfan THIODAN     3EC          2 tsp
                           oxydemeton-methyl      25%EC        1-1.5 tsp
                             METASYSTOX-R2
                           Isotox                              2 tbsp
REMARKS:  Spray when aphids appear.  Repeat application as necessary.  Do not 
use Thiodan near the home or to treat birch.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine         Pine          oxydemeton-methyl      25%EC        2 tsp
(cont)       needle          METASYSTOX-R2
             scale         acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         2 tsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          4 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           malathion              57%EC        4 tsp
REMARKS:  Spray foliage from midspring to summer when crawlers are present.  
Repeat application in 7 to 14 days if necessary.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Pine          acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
             sawfly        Isotox                              3 tbsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
REMARKS:  Apply when insects or their damage appear.  Repeat weekly or as 
needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine         Pine          acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
(cont)       tortoise      acephate ORTHENE       75SP         2 tsp
             scale         dimethoate CYGON       2EC          4 tsp
REMARKS:  Spray must be applied when crawlers are present, approximately the 
middle of April, June, and August.  Spray for each generation when crawlers 
first appear and repeat in 2 wk.  Tag trees known to have scale to check for 
crawlers.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Pine
             webworm
Remarks:  Generally chemical control is not necessary.  Removing webs by hand 
gives sufficient control.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine         Loblolly      diazinon 4EC or AG500 - 1/2 pt/ac
(cont)       pine          dimethoate CYGON 2.67EC - 0.38-0.75 pt/ac in 2 gal
             sawfly                                   water
                           carbaryl SEVIN 50WP                 2 tbsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
REMARKS:  Application should be made at or near completion of egg hatch.  
Aerial application should be made with minimum of 2 gal spray/ac in swaths not 
more than 90 ft wide.  Repeat as needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine         Southern      chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   4EC          2-2/3 oz
(cont)       pine beetle;  lindane                20%AI        6 tbsp
             pine 
             engraver
             (Ips) beetle
REMARKS:  Keep pine stand vigorous.  Promptly remove infested trees or salvage 
for sawtimber or pulpwood.  High value trees can be protected by applying a 
medium spray to the entire trunk until the bark is wet.  Respray in 30-60 days 
as needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Turpentine    lindane                20%AI        6 tbsp
             beetle
REMARKS:  Keep trees vigorous.  Avoid excessive grading and filling.  Prevent 
or control infestation by spraying lower 10 ft of trunk, exposed roots, and 
fresh stumps until runoff.  
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine         White pine    oxydemeton-methyl      25%EC        1-1.5 tsp
(cont)       aphid           METASYSTOX-R2
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       2 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
                           lindane                20%AI        1-1/2 tsp
                           endosulfan THIODAN     3EC          2 tsp
                           Isotox                              2 tbsp
REMARKS:  Spray when aphids are present.  Repeat as needed.  Do not use Thiodan 
near the home or to treat birch.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             White pine    lindane                20%AI        3 tsp
             weevil
REMARKS:  Apply when buds begin to swell in the spring.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Spruce       Bagworm       Bacillus thuringiensis              1-2 tsp
                             DIPEL, THURICIDE
                           chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
                           fenthion BAYTEX        4EC          2 tsp
                           malathion              57%EC        2 tsp
                           carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
                           trichlorfon DYLOX      80%SP        1.5 tbsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         2 tsp
REMARKS:  Repeat as needed.  Best to spray in early morning or late afternoon.  
Spray foliage in early June when bags are small.  Repeat in 10 days.  Handpick 
older larvae.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Spruce       Mite          chlorpyrifos DURSBAN   2EC          1 tsp
(cont)                     cyhexatin PLICTRAN     50W          1/2-1 tsp
                           oxydemeton-methyl      25%EC        1-1.5 tsp
                             METASYSTOX-R2
REMARKS:  Treat when mites are present.  Repeat at 7- to 10-day intervals as 
necessary.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Sycamore     Lace bug      carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
                           malathion              57%EC        1 tsp
                           Isotox                              3 tbsp
                         R disulfoton DI-SYSTON   15G          2.5 oz/in trunk
                                                                 diameter
                           acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         1 tsp
REMARKS:  Treat when present.  Repeat weekly as needed.  Di-Syston not for home 
garden use.
_______________________________________________________________________________
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
-DOC-
______________________________________________________________________________
HOST         PEST          PESTICIDE                           FORMULATION/GAL
_______________________________________________________________________________
Yellow       Tulip tree    carbaryl SEVIN         50WP         2 tbsp
Poplar       scale         acephate ORTHENE       9.4%EC       3 tbsp
                           acephate ORTHENE       75SP         2 tsp
                           diazinon               50WP         1 tbsp
                           ethion 2% in superior type oil      5-8 tbsp
                           superior oil                        8 tbsp
REMARKS:  Spray when crawlers are present in July or August.  Repeat in 10 days 
if necessary.  Oil spray should be applied as a dormant treatment in spring or 
fall.  Read label for cautions on limits of high and low temperatures at time 
of application.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FOREST, SHADE, CHRISTMAS TREE DISEASE CONTROL                 
-DOC-
                 FOREST, SHADE, CHRISTMAS TREE DISEASE CONTROL
                         D. L. Ham, Extension Forester
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE        
_______________________________________________________________________________
Arizona cypress    Blight          benomyl 50% WP       1 lb/100 gal water or
                     Phomopsis       BENLATE            1 tbsp/gal water
                     Cercospora

REMARKS:  Plant only disease-free seedlings.  Remove trees that do not respond 
to treatment.  Apply chemical at 10- to 14-day intervals during the infection 
period.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE        
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE        
_______________________________________________________________________________
Dogwood            Anthracnose     maneb 80% WP         1.5 lb/100 gal water or
                                     DITHANE M-22       1.5 tbsp/gal water
                                     SPECIAL

REMARKS:  Apply first when flowers begin to open, second at petal fall, third 
at midsummer, and fourth after flower buds are formed.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE        
-DOC-
____________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE        
_______________________________________________________________________________
Elm                Dutch elm       None
                   disease

REMARKS:  Community-wide sanitation and bark beetle control programs are 
essential (see insect control section).  Cut dead and infected trees promptly 
and remove the bark.  Plant resistant species such as Siberian elm (Ulmus 
pumila) and Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia).  Benomyl has been used with limited 
success in treating Dutch elm disease.  This use is strictly a supplement to 
sanitation and insect control programs and is not presently recommended in 
South Carolina. 
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Mimosa             Wilt            None

REMARKS:  Plant will-resistant varieties Tryon or Charlotte.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Oak                Armillaria      None
                   root rot

REMARKS:  Maintaining a vigorously growing tree through proper cultural 
practices, including fertilization, will help prevent tree decline by 
Armillaria mellea.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oak (cont)         Wilt            None

REMARKS:  Trees known to have oak wilt should be cut,the stumps killed, and 
wood destroyed.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine               Brown spot      chlorothalonil       3.5 pt/100 gal water in
                   needle blight     DACONIL 2787       high pressure hydraulic
                                     F-500              spray equipment 
                                                        8.5 pt/100 gal water in 
                                                        high pressure mist
                                       or               blower
                                   maneb 37% + zinc     1.2 qt/100 gal water
                                     DITHANE FZ         plus 4 oz spreader-
                                                        sticker.
REMARKS:  With Daconil, begin when new needles are approximately 1/2 their 
full-grown length.  If rainfall is heavy, apply two additional sprays at 3-wk 
intervals.  With Dithane FZ, begin in early spring before infection occurs.  
Repeat after heavy rains and at 2-wk intervals as needed.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine (cont)        Fomes annosus   sodium tetraborate   1 lb/50 sq ft of stump
                   root and butt     GRANULAR BORAX     surface
                   rot

REMARKS:  Sprinkle material on freshly cut stumps in an effort to prevent or 
reduce new infections.  Treatment is not recommended in stands already 
infected.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine (cont)        Fusiform rust   triadimefon 50%WP    4 to 16 oz/ac in a 
                                     BAYLETON           minimum of 20 gal 
                                                        water/ac by air 
                                                        application
                                   ferbam 76%WP         2lb/100 gal water

REMARKS:  Begin application to pine seedling before infection period; repeat as 
necessary at 2- 3-wk intervals.  Use low or high rate depending on disease 
incidence.  A maximum of four applications of 16 oz/ac/season may be made.  
Apply at 3- to 7-day intervals as needed, beginning when needles emerge.  
CHEMICAL CONTROL IS PRACTICAL ONLY ON NURSERY TREES.  For shade trees, prune 
branches with galls less than 2 ft from the stem. Never plant seedlings with 
galls.  In forest situations, consider removing trees with stem galls.  STAND 
SHOULD NOT BE OVERTHINNED TO REMOVAL ALL INFECTED TREES.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
pine (cont)        Littleleaf      None

REMARKS:  Loblolly is less susceptible than shortleaf pine and should be used 
for regeneration in areas where littleaf is present.  Shade trees can be 
improved by application of fertilizers high in nitrogen content (1 to 2 lb of 
5-10-5 and 1/2 to 1 lb ammonium sulfate/100 sq ft under affected trees).
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine (cont)        Needlecast      chlorothalonil       3.5 pt/100 gal water in 
                   Lophodermium      DACONIL 2787       high pressure hydraulic
                                     F-500              spray equipment
                                                        8.5 pt/100 gal water in
                                                        high pressure mist
                                                        blower
                                   maneb 37% + zinc     1.2 qt/100 gal water 
                                     DITHANE FZ         plus 4 oz spreader-
                                                        sticker

REMARKS:  Browning of 1/2 to 2/3 of tip end of older needles and premature 
shedding.  Controls usually not necessary or practical except for Christmas 
trees, nurseries, and certain other high value plantings.  Begin application in 
mid-May and repeat at 2-wk intervals through mid-September.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine (cont)        Needle rust     None

REMARKS:  Numerous small yellow blisters appear on needles in spring or early 
summer.  Controls usually not necessary or practical.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                   Pitch canker    None

REMARKS:  Remove infected trees.  If branches are infected 10 in or more from 
main stem, removal and destruction of branches may be worthwhile on shade 
trees.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Pine (cont)        Southern cone   ferbam 76%WP         2 lb/100 gal water plus
                   rust in slash                        4 to 8 oz spreader-
                   pine                                 sticker
REMARKS:  Begin at time of flowering when strobili are emerging from bud 
scales.  Repeat at 5-day intervals until conelet stage.  Direct spray at 
flower-bearing portions of tree crown.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Red cedar          Twig blight     benomyl 50%WP        1 lb/100 gal water or
                                     BENLATE            1 tbsp/gal water

REMARKS:  Plant only disease-free seedlings.  Apply chemicals at 10- to 14-day 
intervals throughout growing season.  Spray thoroughly including undersides of 
leaves.
_______________________________________________________________________________

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
-DOC-
_______________________________________________________________________________
HOST               DISEASE         PESTICIDE            RATE
_______________________________________________________________________________
Willow             Crown gall      None

REMARKS:  Warty swellings on roots, stems, and trunk retard growth and affected 
roots and stems may die.  Do not plant susceptible stock in soil known to be 
infested with the crown gall bacterium.
_______________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POSTEMERGENCE HERBICIDES FOR CONTROL OF BROADLEAF WEEDS            
-DOC-
            POSTEMERGENCE HERBICIDES FOR CONTROL OF BROADLEAF WEEDS
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist

ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bluegrass, fescue, bermuda, zoysia, carpetgrass, 
centipede, St. Augustine.
 
CHEMICAL:  2,4-D amine
 
RATE:  2 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
2,4-D                4 lb ai/gal                LINE RIDER LV-4D   4 lb ai/gal
CROP GUARD           20% granular               PENNAMINE-D        4 lb/gal
DACAMINE                                        WEED-AG
EMULSAMINE E-3       3 lb/gal                   WEEDAR 64          4 lb/gal
FIELD CLEAN                                     WEEDONE 638        3 lb/gal
FORMULA 40           59.7% solution             CHIPCO TURF        4 lb ai/gal
INSTEMULDA-120                                    HERBICIDE "C"
LIQUID WEEDAWAY
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Common broadleaf weeds, dandelion, dock, plantain, 
buttercup, cranesbill, mustard, carpet weed, wild garlic, wild onion, 
ponyfoot, shepherdspurse, wild carrot, evening primrose, Carolina geranium, 
prickly lettuce, black medic, morningglory, nettle, pennywort, pigweeds, rag 
weeds, vetch, willow.
 
REMARKS:  Apply when weeds are actively growing.  Best results will be 
obtained when weeds are young and tender.  Apply 1/2 rate on centipede, 
carpetgrass, and St. Augustine.  Repeat application 3 wk later if needed.  Do 
not spray in temperatures above 80 degrees F.  Midday temperatures should 
exceed 60 degrees F for good results.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bluegrass, fescue, bermuda, zoysia, carpetgrass, 
centipede, St. Augustine, bentgrass greens and fairways.
 
CHEMICAL:  mecoprop
 
RATE:  1.25 to 1.875 ai/ac, 1.5 to 2.5 fl oz/1,000 sq ft
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
MCPP                 2.0 lb ai/gal              LESCOPEX           2.5 lb
MECOPEX              2.5 lb ai/gal                                 ai/gal
VI-PEX               2.5 lb ai/gal              ORTHO CHICKWEED
WEED-BE-GON FOR      11.65% solution              & CLOVER
  SOUTHERN GRASSES                                CONTROL
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Hard-to-kill broadleaf weeds.  Chickweeds, black medic, 
ground ivy, henbit, prostrate spurge, white clover, speedwell, Florida betony, 
wild geranium, cudweed, Florida pusley, knotweed, dichondra, purslane, 
dandelion, plantain, shepherdspurse, mustard, pigweed, ragweed, 
lambsquarters, morningglory, yarrow. 
 
REMARKS:  Same as 2,4-D amine.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bluegrass, fescue, bermuda, zoysia, carpetgrass, 
centipede, St. Augustine.
 
CHEMICAL:  dicamba
 
RATE:  0.5 to 1 lb ai/ac, 0.66 to 1 tbsp/1,000 sq ft
 
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
BANVEL-D             4 lb ai/gal                PROTURF K-O-G      0.70%
DICAMBA              4 lb ai/gal                  WEED CONTROL     granular
                                                BANVEL 4S          4 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Dock, knotweed, prostrate spurge, ground ivy, white clover, 
sheep sorrel, wild strawberry, chickweed, black medic, bur clover, parsley 
piert, oxalis.
 
REMARKS:  Same as 2,4-D amine.  Avoid use close to trees and shrubs.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bluegrass, fescue, bermuda, zoysia, carpetgrass, 
centipede, St. Augustine.
 
CHEMICAL:  2,4-D and dichlorprop (2,4-DP)
 
RATE:  3 to 4 pt/ac (1 to 1.5 ounces/1000 sq ft)
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
LESCO WEEDONE  DPC   1.85 lb ai +               WEEDONE DPC        1.85 lb ai 
                     1.85 lb ai/gal                                  + 1.85 lb
                                                                     ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Bindweed, black medic, brambles, buckhorn plantain, bull 
thistle, burdock, buttercups, Carolina geranium, chickweeds (common & mouse
ear), chicory, clovers, cocklebur, cudweed, dandelion, dock, evening primrose, 
false dandelion, fleabane, Florida pusley, Frenchweed, ground ivy, hawkweed, 
healall, henbit, honeysuckle, jimsonweed, knotweed, kochia, kudzu, 
lambsquarters, little starwort, mallow morningglory, mustards, oxalis (yellow 
woodsorrel), pennywort, peppergrass, pigweed, plantains (narrow or buckhorn, 
broadleaf), poison ivy, poison oak, poorjoe, poverty weed, purslane, ragweed, 
sheep sorrel, shepherdspurse, smartweeds, soliva, speedwell (annual), spurge, 
sumac, vervain, vetch, violet, wild aster, wild blackberry, wild carrot, wild 
garlic, wild geranium, wild lettuce, wild onion, wild radish, wild raspberry, 
yarrow, Canada thistle, sowthistle. 
 
REMARKS:  Do not use on bentgrass greens or tees.  Not effective on perennial 
veronicas or weed grasses.  Somewhat resistant weeds such as oxalis (yellow 
wood-sorrel), bindweed, and yarrow should be retreated whenever new growth 
appears.  Control of difficult weeds such as sheep (red) sorrel, soliva, and 
violets may be only partial.  On turf to be overseeded in fall, treatment 
should be scheduled for at least 4 wk before seeding date.  A good rain (1/4 
in or more) or deep watering should occur during this period.  Treat fall-
seeded turf the following spring.  Spring-seeded turf may be treated after 
grasses have sprouted and been cut at least twice, generally 6-10 wk after 
seeding, depending on germination and growth rate.  Avoid treatment when turf 
is stressed from drought or high summer temperatures (above 90 degrees F). 
 
Treatment at the above rate may injure bentgrass, St. Augustine, centipede, 
carpetgrass, and newly seeded turf.  For weed control in these grasses use 
half the above rate (1.5 to 2 pints per ac) and repeat at half rate 2 to 3 
weeks later.
______________________________________________________________________________
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bluegrass, fescue, bermuda, zoysia, carpetgrass, 
centipede, St. Augustine.
 
CHEMICAL:  dicamba + 2,4-D
 
RATE:  0.25 lb + 1 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
PROTURF BROAD        2.78 + 2.78%               TURF BUILDER + 4   0.45 +
  SPECTRUM           granular                                      1.37%
  WEEDICIDE                                                        granular
WEEDMASTER                                      PROTURF FERT. +
LAWN PRO             2.95% granular               DICOT WEED
LAWN WEED                                         CONTROL
  CONTROL                                       LESCO DICAMBA +    0.23 lb +
BANVEL + 2,4-D       1.5 lb + 30                  2,4-D AMINE      0.92 lb
                     lb ai/gal                                     ai/gal
PLUS 2, SPOT
  WEEDER                                        SECURITY SUPER D   1.4% +     
                                                  II WEEDONE       13.8%
WEEDS CONTROLLED: Mixed weed populations including wild violets, chickweed, 
clovers, ground ivy, henbit, speedwell, parsley piert, lespedeza, mugwort, and 
many others.
 
REMARKS:  Several commercial formulations are available.  Follow directions on 
labels for proper application rates.  Repeat as needed for control.  Use lower 
rates on centipede and St. Augustine lawns.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bluegrass, fescue, bermuda, zoysia, carpetgrass, 
centipede, St. Augustine.
 
CHEMICAL:  mecoprop (MCPP) + 2,4-D
 
RATE:  1 + 1 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
TURF BUILDER + 2     0.6% + 0.6% granular       PROTURF BROAD
                                                  SPECTRUM
CHIPCO TURF KLEEN    l lb + 0.96 lb/gal           WEEDICIDE II
                                                SUPER TURF         0.55% +
                                                  BUILDER + 2      0.55%
MECOPAR                                                            granular
VI-PAR                                          
VERTAGARD MCPP/2,4-D                            WEEDPICKER         0.25 lb +
                                                                   0.25 lb
EWT PLUS                                                           ai/gal
PROTURF FERT. +      1.37% + 1.37%              LESCOPAR           2 lb + 1 lb
  DICOT WEED CONTROL    granular                                   ai/gal
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
 
                                                ORTHO WEED &
                                                  FEED
                                                ORTHO WEED-B-
                                                  GON LAWN
                                                  WEED KILLER M
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Mixed broadleaf weeds including black medic, chickweed, 
clovers, knawel, knotweed, lespedeza, spurge, ground ivy, mallow, purlane, red 
sorrel, speedwell, yarrow, and many other hard-to-control lawn weeds.
 
REMARKS:  Same as dicamba + 2,4-D
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bluegrass, fescue, bermuda, zoysia, carpetgrass, 
centipede, St. Augustine.
 
CHEMICAL 2,4-D + MCPP + dicamba
 
RATE: See labels.
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
TREXSAN              All liquids, see           LESCO THREE
TRIMEC               labels for                   WAY SELECTIVE
WIPE-OUT             percent                      HERBICIDE
  BROADLEAF WEED                                ORTHO CHICKWEED
  KILLER                                          SPURGE &
33 PLUS LAWN                                      OXALIS KILLER D
  WEED KILLER                                   WEED & FEED W/
SECURITY DANDELION &                              TRIMEC granular 25-4-6
  BROADLEAF SPOT WEEDED 
  (TRIMEC)
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Bedstraw, black medic, buckhorn, burdock, chickory, 
chickweed, clover, dandelion, dock, ground ivy, heal all, henbit, knotweed, 
lambsquarters, lespedeza, mallow, morning glory, pepperweed, pigweed, 
plantains, poison ivy, poison oak, purslane, ragweed, sheep sorrel, 
sheperdspurse, speedwell, spurge, wild carrot, wild garlic wild lettuce, wild 
onion, Florida betony, yarrow, bull thistle, buttercup, cocklehur, galinsoga, 
hawkweed, mustard, oxalis, tansy mustard, thistle, velvet leaf, and many other 
broadleaf weeds. 
 
REMARKS:  Follow directions on labels for proper application rates.  Repeat as 
needed for control.  Use lower rates on centipede and St. Augustine lawns.  
Maximum kill of weeds will be obtained from spring or early fall applications 
when weeds are actively growing.  Avoid spraying during long, excessively dry 
or hot periods unless adequate irrigation is available.  Do not irrigate 
within 24 hr after application.  Do not apply to newly seeded turf until after 
second or third mowing.  Grass seed can be safely sown 3-4 wk after 
application at recommended rates.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bentgrass
 
CHEMICAL:  2,4-D + MCPP + dicamba
 
RATE:  See labels
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
TRIMEC               Liquid                     TREXSAN BENT
  BENTGRASS
  FORMULA
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Bedstraw, black medic, buckhorn, burdock, chicory, 
chickweed, clover, dandelion, dock, ground ivy, heal-all, henbit, knotweed, 
lambsquarter, lespedeza, mallow, morning glory, oxalis, peppergrass, pigweed, 
plantains, poison ivy, poison oak, purslane, ragweed, sheep sorrel, shepherds- 
purse, speedwell, spurge, wild carrot, wild garlic, wild lettuce, wild onion, 
yarrow. 
REMARKS:  If hardy weeds persist, make second application after 3 wk.  Maximum 
weed kill will be obtained from spring or early fall applications when weeds 
are actively growing.  Avoid applying during long, excessively dry or hot 
periods unless adequate irrigation is available.  If applied when soil is 
quite warm, use reduced rates to reduce potential injury.  Do not irrigate 
within 24 hr of application.  Do not apply to newly seeded turf until after 
second or third mowing.  Seed can be safely sown 3-4 wk after application at 
recommended rate.  If dandelions persist as special problem, spot treatment 
with single nozzle hand sprayer is recommended.  Do not overdose bentgrass.  
In closely mowed bentgrass (putting and bowling greens), apply Bentgrass 
Formula at maximum rate of 1 fluid oz/1,000 sq ft, preferably in May or 
through Sept.  Any yellowing will disappear after about 1 wk.  For hard-to-
kill summer weeds, use 6 pt/ac.  Do not apply this rate to bentgrass, 
centipede, or St. Augustine grass.  Note:  Take care to avoid overdosing 
bentgrass or injury may result.  Large volumes of spray water will aid in 
uniform spray coverage.
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrasses
 
CHEMICAL:  chlorpropham (CIPC)
 
RATE:  1 lb ai/ac (liquid & granular)
_____________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME            FORMULATION             TRADE NAME          FORMULATION
_____________________________________________________________________________
SPROUT NIP                                      FURLOE

WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Chickweed
 
REMARKS:  Apply before March 1.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bluegrass, fescue, zoysia, bermuda
 
CHEMICAL:  2,4-D amine
 
RATE:  2 to 3 lb ai/ac, 6 tbsp/1000 sq ft
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME          FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
2,4 -D AMINE         4 lb ai/gal                DACAMINE
WEEDONE 638                                     WEEDAR 64
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Wild onion, wild garlic.
 
REMARKS:  Begin application in Oct.-Nov. and repeat in late Feb./Mar.  Use a 
wetting agent.  Repeat treatment for 2 yr.  Apply only to bluegrass, fescue, 
zoysia, and bermuda.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Centipede, St. Augustine, carpetgrass
 
CHEMICAL 2,4-D amine
 
RATE:  1 tsp of 1% 2,4-D, clump from pressurized container
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
2,4-D AMINE          liquid
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Wild onion, wild garlic.
 
REMARKS:  Apply Dec.-Apr.  Use where clumps are widely scattered.  This will 
kill grass in treated area.  Grass will recover during following growing 
season.  Use with wetting agent.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass (Parks, athletic fields, golf course 
fairways, cemeteries, and sod farms) with a mowing height of 1/2 inch or 
greater.
 
CHEMICAL:  metribuzin
 
RATE:  Dormant turf:  0.5 lb ai/ac
_____________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_____________________________________________________________________________
SENCOR               75%
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  DORMANT TURF:  Alkali mallow, bedstraw, Carolina geranium, 
carpetweed, common chickweed, corn speedwell, henbit, hop clover, spotted bur 
clover, white clover, London rocket, nettleleaf goosefoot, parsley piert, 
prostrate knotweed, shepardspurse, small flowered buttercup, spotted spurge, 
spurweed, wild mustard.
REMARKS:  DORMANT TURF:  Apply correct rate in 40 gal water/ac as a uniform 
broadcast spray prior to green up of turf.  Make no more than 1 application on 
dormant turf per season.  Avoid spray overlaps that will increase rates above 
those recommended.  Do not use on greens, tees, aprons, or other closely mowed 
turf.  Do not apply within the root zone of desirable trees, shrubs, and 
ornamentals.  Delay mowing treated areas at least 3 days for maximum weed 
control.  For best results delay mowing until after rainfall or irrigation.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermuda, St. Augustine, Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, 
annual ryegrass, perennial ryegrass.
 
CHEMICAL:  bromoxynil
 
RATE:  0.375-0.5 lb ai/ac (1.5-2 pt/ac)
_____________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_____________________________________________________________________________
BUCTRIL              2 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  SUSCEPTIBLE IN SEEDLING STAGE:  annual sowthistle, blue
mustard, common tarweed, corn granwell, fiddleneck, field pennycress, green 
smartweeds, pepperweed, shepherdspurse, silverleaf nightshade, tartary 
buckwheat, volunteer sunflower, and wild buckwheat.  LESS SUSCEPTIBLE 
BROADLEAF WEEDS:  common groundsel, corn chamomile, cow cockle, henbit, 
mayweed, prostrate knotweed, redroot pigweed, Russian thistle, tumble mustard, 
wild mustard, wild radish.
REMARKS: Do not use on bentgrass putting greens.  Apply Buctril to actively 
growing, seedling broadleaf weeds.  This is a contact postemergence herbicide.  
Weeds must be thoroughly covered with spray for effective control.  Buctril 
can be tank mixed with MCPP, dicamba, and/or 2,4-D for broader spectrum of 
broadleaf weed control.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermuda, St. Augustine, Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, 
annual ryegrass, perennial ryegrass.
 
CHEMICAL:  bromoxynil
 
RATE:  1 lb ai/ac (4 pt/ac)
____________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_____________________________________________________________________________
BUCTRIL              2 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  As previously listed plus spurweed, yellow woodsorrel.
 
REMARKS:  See previous remarks for bromoxynil.  A second application 2 wk 
after initial treatment may be needed for complete control of established 
yellow woodsorrel. 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermuda, St. Augustine, Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, 
annual ryegrass, perennial ryegrass.
 
CHEMICAL:  bromoxynil
 
RATE:  2 lb ai/ac
____________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
____________________________________________________________________________
BUCTRIL              2 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  As previously listed plus prostrate spurge.
 
REMARKS:  See previous remarks for bromoxynil.  A second application 2 wk 
after initial treatment may be needed for complete control of established 
prostrate spurge or yellow woodsorrel. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescues, creeping bentgrass 
(except bentgrass greens and tees), perennial ryegrass, bermudagrass, fescue, 
St. Augustine, centipedegrass.
 
CHEMICAL:  bromoxynil
 
RATE:  0.375 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________            
BROMINAL             4 lb/ai gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Controls annual broadleaf weeds in newly seeded and 
established grasses.  WEEDS MOST SUSCEPTIBLE IN SEEDLING STAGE (use of 0.25 lb 
ai/gal ac):  Black mustard, Bristly star bur, cocklebur, field pennycress, 
fanweed, green smartweed, kochia, lambsquarters, London rocket, morningglory 
(annual), nettleleaf goosefoot, nightshade, parthenium ragweed, shepherd's 
purse, silver leaf nightshade, sowthistle (annual), sunflower, treacle 
mustard, tumble (Jim Hill) mustard, velvetleaf, wild buckwheat, wild radish.
SUSCEPTIBLE WEEDS (use 0.375 lb ai/ac):  Blue (purple) mustard, bullthistle, 
corn chamomile, corn gromwell, cow cockle, dyers woad, fiddleneck, fivehooked 
bassia, jimsonweed, knawel (German moss), mare's-tail, nodding thistle, 
Pennsylvania smartweed, popcorn flower, prickly (Chinese) lettuce, puncture 
vine, red maids, rockpurslane, Russian thistle, smallseeded false flax, 
southern giant curl mustard, tartary buckwheat, tarweed, wild mustard, winter 
vetch, yellow rocket, yellow star thistle.
 
LESS SUSCEPTIBLE WEEDS - (use 0.5 lb ai/ac): bur buttercup, dog fennel 
(mayweed), fumitory, groundsel, henbit, miners lettuce, pepperweed, pigweed, 
prickly (Chinese) lettuce, tansy, mustard.  Use 1 lb ai/ac for:  Seedling 
spurweed (Soliva sp.), yellow woodsorrell (Oxalis sp.), black medic, bur 
clover, spiny fruited crowfoot, hop clover.  Use 2 lb ai/ac for:  Seedling 
prostrate spurge.
REMARKS:  May be used on newly sprigged bermudagrass, centipedegrass, or St. 
Augustine.  Do not use on bentgrass putting greens or tees.  Seedling weeds 
must be actively growing.  Good coverage is essential for effective control of 
weeds.  Temporary turfgrass discoloration may occur, particularly if excessive 
overlapping of spray solution occurs or if applied at 85 degrees or above.  
This will usually disappear following two mowings, leaving no permanent 
damage. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Established turf except bentgrass, St. Augustine, 
centipede, and carpet.
 
CHEMICAL:  bromoxynil + dichlorprop (2,4-D + 2,4-DP) tank mix
 
RATE:  1 to 2 pts + 3 to 4 pts/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
ME 4 BROMINAL +      4 lb ai/gal +
  WEEDONE DPC          1.85 + 1.85 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Weeds in list under bromoxynil above plus the following:  
actively growing dandelion, plantain, ground ivy, red & white clover, hop 
clover, bur clover, prostrate spurge, knotweed, and oxalis.
 
REMARKS:  For established bentgrass (except bentgrass greens & tees), St. 
Augustine, and centipedegrass use 1 pt bromoxynil + 1.5 to 2 pts dichlorprop 
(2,4-D + 2,4-DP)/ac.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Established turf except bentgrass, St. Augustine, and 
centipedegrass.
 
CHEMICAL:  bromoxynil + 2,4-D amine or 2,4-D ester tank mix
 
RATE:  1 pt + 2 to 4 pts
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
ME 4 BROMINAL +      4 lb ai/gal
  WEEDAR 64            3.8 lb ai/gal
  (2,4-D amine) or
  WEEDONE LV4          4 lb ai/gal
  (2,4-D ester)
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Weeds in list under bromoxynil above plus the following:  
seedling and established weeds such as ragweed, dandelion, plantain, wild 
garlic or wild onion.  Treat wild garlic or wild onion for 3 successive 
seasons (example: spring, fall, spring).  Use the 2 pt rate on annual 
broadleaf weeds and 3 to 4 pts on perennial and biennial broadleaf weeds.  Use 
ester formulation for best control of wild garlic and wild onion.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Established turf except bentgrass.
 
CHEMICAL:  bromoxynil + dicamba tank mix
 
RATE:  1 to 2 pts + 0.2 to 0.5 pts                                                                             
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
ME 4 BROMINAL +      4 lb ai/gal +
  BANVEL               4 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Weeds in list under bromoxynil above plus the following:  
seedling weeds such as knotweed, chickweed, red clover, and white clover.
 
REMARKS:  Use high rates for control of yellow woodsorrel and prostrate 
spurge.  Repeat treatments may be made.  Do not exceed 1 lb ai/ac Banvel per 
growing season.
 
Banvel in excess of 0.5 lb ai/ac may cause noticeable stunting or 
discoloration of sensitive grass species such as carpetgrass, buffalograss, 
and St. Augustine.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASS:  Established turf except bentgrass.
 
CHEMICAL:  bromoxynil + mecoprop tank mix
 
RATE:  1 to 2 pts + 1 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
ME 4 BROMINAL +      4 lb ai/gal +
  MCPP                 2.5 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Weeds in list under bromoxynil above plus the following:  
seedling and established weeds such as plantain, dandelion, red clover, ground 
ivy, prostrate spurge, white clover, chickweed, knotweed, and starwort.
 
REMARKS:  Use high rate on established weeds.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Established turf except bentgrass.
 
CHEMICAL:  bromoxynil + mecoprop + dicamba tank mix
 
RATE:  1 to 2 pts + 0.5 to 1 lb ai + 0.25 to 0.5 pts/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
ME 4 BROMINAL +      4 lb ai/gal +
  MCPP + BANVEL        2.5 lb ai/gal
                       4 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Weeds in list under bromoxynil above plus the following:  
seedling and established weeds such as white clover, dandelion, and plantain.
 
REMARKS:  Use high rate of bromoxynil when spurweed and prostrate spurge are 
present.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Established turf except bentgrass.
 
CHEMICAL:  bromoxynil + mecoprop + 2,4-D tank mix.
 
RATE:  1 to 2 pt + 0.5 to 1 lb ai + 0.5 to 1 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
ME 4 BROMINAL +      4 lb ai/gal +
  MCPP + 2,4-D         2.5 lb ai/gal +
                       4 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Weeds listed under bomoxynil above plus the following:  
seedling and established weeds such as chickweed, knotweed, red sorrel, 
dandelion, and plantain.
 
REMARKS:  Use lower rates on St. Augustine and carpetgrass.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  bluegrass, bermudagrass, tall fescue, and zoysia.
 
CHEMICAL:  bromoxynil + MSMA or DSMA tank mix.
 
RATE:  1 pt + 2 to 3 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
ME4 BROMINAL +       4 lb ai/gal +
  MSMA or DSMA         4 or 6 or 8 lb
                       ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Weeds in list under bromoxynil above plus the following:  
seedling broadleaf weeds, crabgrass, goosegrass, nutsedge, and sandbur.  Apply 
during warm weather 80 to 90 degrees F.  Begin application when grassy weeds 
have 3 to 4 leaves.  More mature weeds require additional applications 7 to 10 
days apart.  Nutsedge and sandbur control may need 3 to 4 applications of MSMA 
or DSMA.  Apply when soil moisture is adequate.
 
Do not apply to bentgrass, carpetgrass, centipedegrass, or St. Augustine.  
Grasses may show temporary discoloration.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POSTEMERGENCE HERBICIDES FOR CONTROL OF WEED GRASSES             
-DOC-
             POSTEMERGENCE HERBICIDES FOR CONTROL OF WEED GRASSES
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, annual bluegrass, fine 
fescue, perennial ryegrass.
 
CHEMICAL:  fenoxaprop-ethyl
 
RATE:  15 to 45 fluid ounces/ac depending on established grass and stage of 
grassy weed growth.
 
_____________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION              
_____________________________________________________________________________
Acclaim              1.0 lb ai/gal EC
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Smooth and hairy crabgrass, goosegrass, barnyardgrass, 
foxtail, panicum, johnsongrass.
REMARKS:  For hand-held pump-type sprayers add 0.5 fluid ounce per gallon of 
water and spray target weeds to the point of leaf runoff.
 
Young actively growing grassy weeds are more easily controlled than larger 
weeds.  Avoid application to turfgrass under drought stress.  This is a 
systemic herbicide.  Spray when maximum leaf area is present.  Delay mowing 24 
hours after application.  Grass clippings can interfere with thorough spray 
coverage of target weeds.  Repeat application may be needed for complete 
control.  Do not make a second application sooner than 14 days and only to 
grassy weeds with vigorous regrowth.  This is a selective grassy weed 
herbicide with little or no activity on broadleaf plants or sedges.  Brodleaf 
herbicides such as dicamba and phenoxy types reduce effectiveness of Acclaim.  
Do not apply in tank mixtures with other pesticides or fertilizers.  Only 
fescues and ryegrass may be overseeded immediately following application.  
Wait 21 days to seed all other turf species.
 
Visual injury to grassy weeds is evident 4 to 10 days after application.  
Control takes 12 to 21 days.  Control symptoms begin as general yellowing and 
reddening of the leaves followed by senescence.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTBLISHED GRASSES:  Bermuda, bluegrass, fescue, zoysia.
 
CHEMICAL:  DSMA
 
RATE:  3 lb/ac
_____________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION              TRADE NAME          FORMULATION
_____________________________________________________________________________
ANSAR 184 & 8100                              PROTURF             2.9%
CLOUT                                           MONOCOT WEED      granular                                          
CRAB-E-RAD 30                                   CONTROL
DAL-E-RAD 30 and                              LAWN PRO SUMMER     2.9%                                      
  100                                           CRABGRASS         granular   
                                                CONTROL
                                              NAMATE               3.6 lb/gal    
                                                
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Annual grasses, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, 
dallisgrass, sandbur, johnsongrass, nutsedge, bahiagrass, crowfootgrass.
REMARKS:  Begin application in spring when crabgrass is less than 1 in tall.  
Three applications 7 to 10 days apart may be needed for control.  Apply when 
soil moisture is adequate.  Temporary discoloration of turfgrass will occur.  
Use lower rate when midday temp is 85 degrees F or higher.  For more effective 
dallisgrass and nutsedge control, use higher rates and apply June-Sept. when 
midday temp is not above 85 degrees F; two or three applications at 10-to 14-
day intervals needed.  Do not use on centipede, St. Augustine, carpet, or 
bentgrass.
 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermuda, bluegrass, fescue, zoysia, bentgrass. 
 
CHEMICAL:  CAMA
 
RATE:  3 lb ai/ac
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION              TRADE NAME          FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
ORTHO CRABGRASS      4.1% ai solution         CALAR-CAMA
  KILLER FORMULA II
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, dallisgrass, nutsedge.
 
REMARKS:  Do not use on centipede, carpet, and St. Augustine turf.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermuda, bluegrass, fescue, zoysia, bentgrass
 
CHEMICAL:  MSMA
 
RATE:  3 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
BUANO 6              6 lb ai/gal                SILVISAR 550
CRAB-E-RAD 70                                   LESCO MSMA         6 lb ai/gal
  and 120                                         HERBICIDE
DAL-E-RAD 70                                    DACONATE 6         6 lb ai/gal
  and 120                                       WEED-E-RAD + W
DACONATE             6 lb ai/gal                SECURITY CRABGRASS
                                                  KILLER (MSMA)    11.02%
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Annual grasses, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, 
dallisgrass, nutsedge, sandbur.
 
REMARKS:  Same as DSMA.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermuda, bluegrass, fescue, zoysia
 
CHEMICAL:  2,4-D amine
 
RATE:  2 lb ai/ac, 2 tbsp/1,000 sq ft (4 lb ai/gal)
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
2,4-D AMINE          4 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Nutsedge
 
REMARKS:  Apply when nutsedge is actively growing.  Three applications 10- to 
14-days apart will be required for control.  Use with wetting agent.  Do not 
use on centipede, St. Augustine, or carpetgrass.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermuda, bluegrass, fescue, zoysia.
 
CHEMICAL:  DSMA + 2,4-D
 
RATE:  See label.
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
DAL-E-RAD + 2
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Nutsedge, dallisgrass, chickweed, dandelion, plantain, 
crabgrass, spotted spurge.
 
REMARKS:  Same as 2,4-D amine.  Apply when weeds are young, tender, and 
actively growing.  Repeat aplication 10-to 14-days apart.  Do not use on 
centipede, St. Augustine, carpet, or bentgrass.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermuda, bluegrass, fescue, zoysia.
 
CHEMICAL:  AMA + 2,4-D
 
RATE:  See label.
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
SUPER DAL-E-RAD + 2
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Same as DSMA + 2,4-D
 
REMARKS:  Same as DSMA + 2,4-D.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermuda, bluegrass, zoysia, fescue
 
CHEMICAL:  AMA + 2,4-D
 
RATE:  1.5 fl oz/gal/250 sq ft
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
ORTHO CRABGRASS      4.1% + 4.83% ai
  & DANDELION
    KILLER
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Nutsedge, crabgrass, dandelion, plantain, knotweed, 
purslane, pennywort.
 
REMARKS:  Do not use on dichondra, St. Augustine, carpet, centipede, bahia, 
and bentgrass lawns.  Do not apply when temperature exceeds 90 degrees F. 
Repeat application in 7 to 10 days when weeds are young and tender.  Fescue, 
bermuda, and zoysia lawns may be temporarily discolored. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, bluegrass
 
CHEMICAL:  DSMA + 2,4-D + mecoprop + dicamba
 
RATE:  5 oz in 1-3 gal water/1,000 sq ft
_______________________________________________________________________________                  
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
QUADMEC              1.8 + 0.48 + 0.48
                     + 0.12 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Nutsedge plus broad range of broadleaf weeds plus grass 
weeds including but not limited to:  aster, bedstraw, black medic, buckhorn, 
burdock, chicory, chickweeds, clovers, crabgrass, dallisgrass, dandelion, 
docks, goosegrass, ground ivy, heal-all, henbit, knotweed, lambsquarters, 
lespedeza, mallows, morning glory, nutsedges, oxalis, peppergrass, pigweeds, 
plantains, poison ivy, posion oak, purslane, ragweed, sheep sorrel, shepherds- 
purse, speedwell, spurges, wild carrot, wild garlic, wild lettuce, wild onion, 
yarrow, yellow woodsorrel.
REMARKS:  Do not use on St. Augustine, carpet, or centipede turf.  Newly 
emerging crabgrass and for broadleaf weed control, including oxalis.  Summer 
applications can be made to more mature crabgrass and broadleaf weeds.  In 
heavy infestations, especially of dallisgrass, second application of Quadmec 
may be needed 10-14 days later.  Weed control is best achieved when 
temperatures are above 70 degrees F, however DO NOT apply to bluegrass when 
temperatures exceed 90 degrees F or when turf is uder stress such as drought.  
On new lawns wait until after third mowing before treatment.  Be sure soil is 
moist and lawn healthy before application.  Temporary discoloration may occur. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, (parks, athletic fields, golf course 
fairways, cemeteries, and sod farms) with a mowing height of 1/2 inch or 
greater.
 
CHEMICAL:  metribuzin
 
RATE:  Actively Growing Turf: 0.25 to 0.5 lb ai/ac
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
SENCOR               75% WP 
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  ACTIVELY GROWING TURF:  annual bluegrass, goosegrass, 
littleseed canarygrass, rabbitfootgrass.
 
REMARKS:  ACTIVELY GROWING TURF:  Apply correct rate in 40 gal water/ac as a 
uniform broadcast spray.  Apply only when turf is vigorously growing and not 
under stress.  Repeat if necessary but not closer than 1 week intervals.  Make 
no more than 2 applications to actively growing turf per season.  Applications 
may result in temporary discoloration which turf soom outgrows.  Use the lower 
rate where soil pH is greater than 7.5 when applying to actively growing turf.
Avoid spray overlaps that will increase rates above those recommended.  Do not 
use on greens, tees, aprons, or other closely mowed turf.  Do not apply within 
the root zone of desirable trees, shrubs, and ornamentals.  Delay mowing 
treated areas at least 3 days for maximum weed control.  For best results 
delay mowing until after rainfall or irrigation.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrasses (parks, athletic fields, golf course 
fairways, cemeteries, and sod farms) with a mowing height of 1/2 inch or 
greater.
 
CHEMICAL:  metribuzin + MSMA
 
RATE:  0.25 lb ai/ac + 2 lb ai/ac tank mix
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION               
_______________________________________________________________________________
SENCOR + MSMA        75% + either 4, 6, or 8 lb
  tank mix             ai/gal tank mix
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  In addition to weeds listed above under Actively Growing 
Turf by metribuzin (Sencor) the following other weeds can be controlled with a 
tank mix of MSMA + Sencor on Actively Growing Turf:  crabgrass, nutsedge, 
barnyardgrass, yellow woodsorrel, sandbur, and dallisgrass.
 
REMARKS:  See remarks under Actively Growing Turf for metribuzin (Sencor) 
above.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, bahia, centipede, fescue, bluegrass, 
bentgrass, zoysia, ryegrass, St. Augustine
 
CHEMICAL:  bentazon
 
RATE:  1 to 2 lb ai/ac, 1 to 2 qt/ac, 3/4 to 1 1/2 fl oz/1,000 sq ft
_____________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
BASAGRAN             4 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Yellow nutsedge.
 
REMARKS:  Apply postemergence to actively growing yellow nutsedge under good 
soil moisture conditions.  If desired control is not obtained, apply again at 
10-14 day intervals until yellow nutsedge is eliminated.  Do not use more than 
3 qt/ ac/ season.  Thorough spray coverage of yellow nutsedge is necessary for 
best control.  Use min of 1 gal spray/1,000 sq ft or 40 gal/ac at 40 psi.  Do 
not apply to newly seeded turf until seedlings are well established.  Do not 
apply to golf greens or collars.  For optimum control do not mow 3 to 5 days 
before and after application. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, 
Zoysiagrass
 
CHEMICAL:  imazaquin
 
RATE:  0.25 to 0.5 lb ai/ac
       0.5 to 1.0 fluid ounce per 1,000 sq ft
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
IMAGE                1.5 LC
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Purple nutsedge, wild garlic, wild onion, yellow nutsedge 
suppression, rice flatsedge, bristly starbur, sandbur, common and mouseear 
chickweed, henbit, parsley-piert, pigweed.
REMARKS:  A repeat application may be required for season-long weed control.  
For yellow nutsedge control, use the high rate of application and/or tank mix 
with a methylarsonate herbicide such as MSMA.  Addition of a methylarsonate 
herbicide (2 lb ai/ac MSMA) will result in more rapid and improved sedge 
control in methylarsonate tolerant turfgrasses (centipede and St. Augustine 
are not methylarsonate tolerant).  Do not use Image on tall fescue or mixed 
stands of tall fescue and bermudagrass.
 
Treated turfgrasses may have a compacted growth habit and seed head formation 
may be inhibited; vigor is not impaired.
 
Addition of a nonionic surfactant at 0.25% v/v (1 qt. per 100 gallons spray) 
is required.  Temporary yellowing may occur.  Use only on well established 
turf.  Do not mow St. Augustine for 48 hours after application. 
 
Do not use on winter overseeded turf.  May injure ryegrass, bentgrass, and 
bluegrass.  Do not reseed or overseed or sprig within 6 weeks after 
application.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass only
 
CHEMICAL:  R pronamide
 
RATE:  1 to 1 1/2 lb ai/ac
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
________________________________________________________________________________
KERB                 50% WP
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Poa annua, annual bluegrass, fescue, ryegrass, bentgrass, 
Kentucky bluegrass.
 
REMARKS:  Avoid spraying areas draining into or overseeded with cool-season 
grasses.  Allow 3 to 5 wk for annual bluegrass to die.  Kerb controls Poa 
annua from germination and seedling through seed head formation.  Irrigate 
immediately after applying to promote root absorption.
 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Dormant bermudagrass
 
CHEMICAL:  glyphosate (41%)
 
RATE:  12 fl oz/ac plus 0.5% by volume of nonionic surfactant in 5 to 20 gal 
water/ac.
_____________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_____________________________________________________________________________
ROUNDUP              3 lb ai/ac
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Poa annua (annual bluegrass).
 
REMARKS:  Application to actively growing annual bluegrass turf must be made 
before initiation of bermudagrass green-up in spring.  Do not disturb soil or 
underground plant parts before treatment or for at least 7 days after 
application.  Not recommended for domestic application except by professional 
applicators.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  St Augustine, Tifway 419 bermudagrass
 
CHEMICAL:  asulam
 
RATE:  2.09 lb ai/ac, 5 pt/ac
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
ASULOX               3.34 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, goosegrass, sandbur, bullgrass.
 
REMARKS:  Do not apply to turf which is under stress or freshly mowed.  
Temporary turf discoloration may result.  Do not use a surfactant.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Dormant bermudagrass overseeded with perennial ryegrass
 
CHEMICAL:  ethofumesate
 
RATE:  first application:  1 to 2 lb ai/ac;  second application:  1 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                                              
______________________________________________________________________________
PROGRASS             1.5 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Annual bluegrass, common chickweed.
 
REMARKS:  For preemergence or postemergence control of annual bluegrass and 
common chickweeed in dormant bermudagrass overseeded with perennial ryegrass.  
Apply PROGRASS only to dormant bermudagrass in fall 15-30 days after 
overseeding with perennial ryegrass.  One or two supplemental applications at 
30-60 day intervals may be required to maintain control through winter months.  
Do not apply PROGRASS after Feb. 1.  Late applications may temporarily delay 
resumption of active growth habit of bermudagrass in spring.  Note:  Initial 
PROGRASS treatment may cause premature onset of dormancy or injury to 
bermudagrass not yet fully dormant.  Therefore, use only on dormant 
bermudagrass.  Do not apply more than 2.66 gal/ac during the season.
Apply using stardard pressure (20-50 psi) spray equipment that is carefully 
calibrated before use.  Check often during application to be sure it is 
working properly.  Do not use smaller than 50-mesh strainer.  Avoid overlaps 
since turf injury may result.  Spray tank and line should be thoroughly 
cleaned and rinsed before using.  Use indicated rates of chemical in 20-60 gal 
water/ac.  Use of activited sewage sludge fertilizers on treated area may 
reduce herbicidal activity.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASS:  Perennial ryegrass.
 
CHEMICAL:  ethofumesate
 
RATE:  1 to 2 lb ai/ac per application
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                                              
______________________________________________________________________________
PROGRASS             1.5 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  POSTEMERGENCE:  Annual bluegrass, common chickweed.  
PREEMERGENCE:  annual bluegrass, large crabgrass, barnyardgrass, green 
foxtail, yellow foxtail, canarygrass, common chickweed, common purslane, and 
redroot pigweed.
 
REMARKS:  Apply approximately 2 to 4 weeks prior to the main germination 
period of annual bluegrass in the fall or late spring up to 30 days after 
emergence.  Repeat 1 to 2 times at 30 to 60 day intervals.  Overseeding with 
perennial ryegrass may be done any time.  Overseeding with turfgrass species 
other than ryegrass is not recommended.  Use of activated sewage sludge 
fertilizers on treated area may reduce herbicide control of weeds.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Kentucky bluegrass on fairways and roughs only of golf 
courses or commercial turf only.  Exclude use on home lawns or sod farms.
 
CHEMICAL:  ethofumesate
 
RATE:  0.75 lb ai ( 2 quarts)/ac per each of 3 applications
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                                              
______________________________________________________________________________
PROGRASS             1.5 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  annual bluegrass
 
REMARKS:  Do not apply on Kentucky bluegrass which has been mowed 3/4 inch or 
less in height.  Do not apply to turf established less than 8 weeks.  Make 3 
applications 21 days apart.  Do not make first application prior to September 
1.  Do not make last application after December 1.  Do not reseed within 6 
weeks after application.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
SEEDLING GRASS:  seedling centipedegrass (first year)
 
CHEMICAL:  sethoxydim
 
RATE:  1 pint of Poast plus 2 pints oil concentrate per acre, or 3/8 fl.oz. of 
Poast plus 3/4 fl.oz. oil cencentrate per 1,000 sq ft
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                                              
______________________________________________________________________________
POAST                18% (1.5 lb ai/gal)
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Large crabgrass, smooth crabgrass, goosegrass.
 
REMARKS:  If the grass weed has been mowed numerous times and is extensively 
tillered, control may be reduced.  On seedling centipedegrass do not apply 
more than 1 pint per acre per application or a total of 2 pints per season.  
See Supplemental Label, For Use on Centipedegrass in Turf, Lawns and Rights-
of-Way, for more important details.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASS:  Centipedegrass
 
CHEMICAL:  sethoxydim
 
RATE:  1.5 pints of POAST plus 2 pints oil concentrate (crop oil) per acre, 
or 1/2 fl.oz. of POAST plus 3/4 fl.oz. oil concentrate (crop oil) per 1,000 
sq ft
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                                              
______________________________________________________________________________
POAST                18% (1.5 lb ai/gal.)
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Large crabgrass, smooth crabgrass, goosegrass.
 
REMARKS:  Apply Poast no sooner than 3 weeks after spring green-up of 
centipede turf.  Apply before annual grasses become too large and mature.  
Apply before weeds exceed 4 inches.  Apply before weeds are well established 
through tiller development.
Poast does not control sedges or broadleaf weeds.  Do not apply Poast to any 
desirable turfgrass other than centipedegrass.  Control symptoms exhibited by 
the weeds progress from a slowing or stopping of growth, to reddening of the 
leaves, and to leaf tip burn, followed by browning of the foliage.  Symptoms 
generally observed within 3 weeks depending on weather.  Do not mow within 7 
days before and after application.
 
Do not apply to grass under moisture, temperature, or injury stress.  Apply to 
actively growing grasses.  Poast should dry on the grass foliage to be 
effective.  On established centipedegrass do not apply more than 1.5 pints per 
acre per application or more than a total of 3 pints per acre per season.  See 
Supplemental Label, For Use on Centipedegrass in Turf, Lawns and Rights-of-
Way, for additional details.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASS:  Centipedegrass
 
CHEMICAL:  sethoxydim
 
RATE:  First application:  1.5 pints of Poast plus 2 pints oil concentrate
                           per acre, or 1/2 fl.oz. of Poast plus 3/4 fl.oz.
                           oil concentrate per 1,000 sq ft before bahiagrass 
                           weeds exceed 4 inches.
 
       Second application: 1.5 pints of Poast plus 2 pints oil concentrate per
                           acre, or 1/2 fl.oz. of Poast plus 3/4 fl.oz. oil
                           concentrate per 1,000 sq ft when bahiagrass weeds
                           have less than 4 inches of of regrowth.
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                                              
______________________________________________________________________________
POAST                18% (1.5 lb ai/gal)
 
WEED CONTROLLED:  bahiagrass
REMARKS:  Do not mow within 7 days before application or within 14 days after 
application for best control of bahiagrass.  Established bahiagrass is very 
difficult to control.  One application will burn down the bahiagrass but many 
plants will regrow.  The regrowth is weak and seedheads will generally be 
suppressed for 40 days after the first application.
 
A second application of Poast will be necessary for bahiagrass control.  Under 
optimum conditions this second application should be made as soon as 10 to 14  
days after the first.  The second application should be made when the 
bahiagrass regrowth is young, actively growing nad before it has reached 4 
inches in height.
 
Complete control of bahiagrass may require continued treatments into the 
following year.  See Supplemental Label, For Use on Centipedegrass in Turf, 
Lawns, and Rights-of-Way, for additional details.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREEMERGENCE HERBICIDES                            
-DOC-

                            PREEMERGENCE HERBICIDES
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist                            TURFGRASS WEED CONTROL
 
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bluegrass, bermuda, centipede, St. Augustine, fescue, 
zoysia.
 
CHEMICAL  DCPA
 
RATE:  10 lb ai/ac, 1/4 lb/1,000 sq ft
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
DACTHAL              75% WP                     ORTHO CRABGRASS    4.87% 
WEED FREE            5% granular                  CONTROL PLUS     granular
                                                  LAWN FOOD
                                                  18-3-6
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, foxtail, goosegrass, sandbur, bluegrass (annual
bluegrass, Poa annua), carpetweed, common chickweed, lambsquarter, purslane, 
Florida pusley, pigweed, nodding spurge, browntop, panicum.
 
REMARKS:  Apply in early spring before crabgrass seed germination.  For annual 
bluegrass control, increase rate by 50% and apply in August before seed 
germination.  Irrigation should follow application.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Creeping bentgrass fairways and roughs only.
 
CHEMICAL:  ethofumesate
 
RATE:  0.75 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                                              
______________________________________________________________________________
PROGRASS             1.5 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Preemergence for annual bluegrass control.
 
REMARKS:  Do not apply to renovated or overseeded fairway turf less than 6 
weeks after seedling emergence.  On established turf make 2 to 3 applications 
on a 21 day interval.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bluegrass, bermuda, centipede, St. Augustine, fescue, 
zoysia.
 
CHEMICAL:  benefin
 
RATE:  2 to 3 lb ai/ac, 1.8 to 2.8 lb/1,000 sq ft.
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME          FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________
BALAN                2.5% granular              BALFIN             2.5% 
                                                                   granular
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass and most other annual weed grasses.  Including 
goosegrass, foxtail, annual bluegrass, crowfoot, barnyardgrass.
 
REMARKS:  Apply in late winter or early spring before annual weed-grass seed 
germination.  For continued weed control into late summer or early fall, make 
a second application 4 to 6 mo after initial treatment.  For annual bluegrass 
control, use high rate listed and apply in August.  Do not use on golf course 
greens.  Minimum 6-wk waiting period before reseeding.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, bermudagrass, 
centipedegrass, bahiagrass, St. Augustine, perennial ryegrass, zoysia.
 
CHEMICAL:  Benefin + trifluralin
 
RATE:  1.34 + 0.66 to 2 + 1 lb ai/ac
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                
_______________________________________________________________________________
LESCO 20-5-10 TURF  0.67% + 0.33% granular
  FERTILIZER WITH 
  TEAM
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Annual bluegrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtails.
 
REMARKS:  Irrigate soon after application.  Any cultural practices which 
disturb the soil should be done prior to application.  Apply in late winter to 
early spring one to two weeks prior to favorable conditions for weed seed 
germination for control of summer annual weed grasses.  For season long 
control make a second application 8 to 10 weeks later.  Delay reseeding 
desirable grasses 12 to 16 weeks when the heribicide has been used at the 
highest rate.
For annual bluegrass control apply in late summer to early fall one to two 
weeks prior to expected seed germination.  Repeat 10 to 12 weeks later if 
needed for season long control.
 
Goosegrass normally germinates 4 to 6 weeks later than crabgrass and other 
summer annuals.  Applications should therefore be timed accordingly.  
 
This product will not control established weeds.  Do not apply in the spring 
to turf overseeded the previous fall with winter grasses.  A spring 
application may thin the overseeded grasses.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Kentucky bluegrass, bahiagrass, bermudagrass, bentgrass 
fairways, centipedegrass, fescue, perennial ryegrass, St. Augustine, Zoysia.
 
CHEMICAL:  Benefin + trifluralin
 
RATE:  1.33 + 67 to 2 + 1 lb ai/ac
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                
_______________________________________________________________________________
TEAM                 1.33% + 67% granular
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Annual bluegrass, smooth and hairy crabgrass, goosegrass, 
barnyardgrass, and green and yellow foxtail.
REMARKS:  Irrigate soon after application.  Apply one to two weeks prior to 
weed seed germination.  Cultural practices which disturb the soil should be 
done prior to application.  Delay reseeding desirable grass 6 to 16 weeks 
depending on application rate.  Do not apply in the spring to turfgrasses 
planted the previous fall.  A spring application may thin overseeded grasses 
planted the previous fall.  Use the higher rate for heavy weed pressure and 
for annual bluegrass control.  Make a second application 10 to 12 weeks later 
for season long control.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bluegrass, bermuda, centipede, St. Augustine, fescue, 
zoysia, bahia, bentgrass, Ky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, golf course 
greens, tees, and fairways, red top, Poa trivialis.
 
CHEMICAL:  bensulide
 
RATE:  10 lb ai/ac, 7.4 fl oz/1,000 sq ft (4 lb ai/gal), 3.2 lb/1,000 sq ft, 
(4.5% granular)
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
PROTURF              7.8% granular              HALTS              11% 
  FERTILIZER W/                                                    granular
  WEEDGRASS                                     PRESAN 7G          7% granular
  PREVENTER                                     PRESAN 12.5 G      12.5%
BETAMEC              4 lb ai/gal                                   granular
BETASAN 12.5G        12.5% granular             PRESAN EC          4 lb ai/gal
  PREFAR                                        SUPER HALTS PLUS   4 lb ai/gal
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
 
                                                LESCOSAN 12.5 G    12.5
PROTURF WEED         8.5% granular                                 granular
  GRASS PREVENTER                               LESCOSAN 4E        4 lb ai/gal
  BETASAN 2.9E       2.9 lb ai/gal              LESCOSAN 7G        7% granular
  BETASAN 4E         4 lb ai/gal                TURFBUILDER PLUS   2.98%
  BETASAN 3.6G       3.6% granular                HALTS              granular
  BETASAN 7G         7% granular           
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, annual bluegrass, pigweed, goosegrass, henbit,
deadnettle, shepherd's purse, lambsquarters, henbit, barnyardgrass, fall 
panicum, foxtails.
 
REMARKS:  Apply in late winter or early spring before annual weed-grass seed 
germination.  For continued weed control into later summer or early fall, make 
second application after initial treatment.  For annual bluegrass control, 
increase rate by 25% and apply in August.  Wait 4 mo before reseeding.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Fescue, bluegrass, and bentgrass greens only (Use on 
only the following varieties of bentgrass:  Pencross, Seaside, Astoria, 
Nemesellia, C-1, C-7, and C-19).
 
CHEMICAL:  siduron
 
RATE:  8 to 12 lb ai/ac, 6 to 9 oz/1,000 sq ft
______________________________________________________________________________ 
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
TUPERSAN             50% WP                     LAWN PRO STARTER   3.1% 
PROTURF STARTER      3.1% granular              FERTILIZER W/      granular
  W/PREEMERGENCE                                  CRABGRASS PRE-
  WEED CONTROL                                    VENTER                                                
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, foxtail, barnyard grass.  Will not control 
annual bluegrass (Poa annua). 
 
REMARKS:  Agitate in spray tank.  Do not use on bermuda, zoysia, centipede, 
carpet, or ST. Augustine grass.  For approved bentgrass varieties, see label.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass (Common, Tiflawn, Tifway, Ormond only) 
centipedegrass, St. Augustine, zoysia 
 
CHEMICAL:  simazine
 
RATE:  2 lb ai/ac, (1 oz/1,000 sq ft), (2.5 lb/ac)
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
PRINCEP              80% WP
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Alyssum, annual bluegrass, annual morningglory, annual 
ryegrass, barnyardgrass, burclover, carelessweed, carpetweed, common 
chickweed, corn speedwell, crabgrass, downy brome, fall panicum, fiddleneck, 
filaree, filaree, fireweed, fivehook bassia, Flora's paintbrush, Florida 
pusley, foxtails, goosegrass, groundsel, henbit, hop clover, junglerice, 
knawel, common lambsquarters, nightshade, pepperweed, pigweed, pineappleweed, 
prickly lettuce, common purslane, ragweed, rattail fescue, redmaids, Russian 
thistle, shepherdspurse, signalgrass, spurweed, silver hairgrass, smartweed, 
spanishneedles, speedwell, tansymustard, wild mustard, wild oats, witchgrass, 
yellow flower pepperweed.
Apply in late summer or early fall before winter annual weeds emerge; or for 
summer annual weeds, in late winter or very early spring before weeds emerge.  
Apply in min of 15 gal water/ac or 1 gal/1,000 sq ft; irrigate after 
application.  Simazine is mainly root absorbed.  Use 1.25 lb/ac if annual 
bluegrass is major weed; 2.5 lb/ac for other weeds listed.  Do not exceed 1.25 
lb/ac on newly sprigged turfgrass or hybrid bermudagrass such as Tiflawn, 
Tifway and Ormond.
 
For continued summer annual weed control, apply another 1.25 lb/ac at least 30 
days after previous application but not after April 15.
 
Do not apply more than twice/yr.
 
To avoid injury, use only on turfgrass reasonably free of insects, nematodes, 
and diseases.  Do not use on golf course greens.  Do not apply over rooting 
area of trees or ornamentals not listed on label.  On newly sprigged 
turfgrass, growth may slow temporarily after application.  Hybrid bermuda may 
yellow temporarily.  Do not overseed with desirable turfgrass within 4 mo 
before or 6 mo after treatment.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRASSES:  Turfgrasses for sod production--St. Augustine, centipedegrass, 
zoysiagrass, bermudagrass (Tiflawn, Tifway, Ormond only). 
 
CHEMICAL:  simazine
 
RATE:  1 lb ai/ac + 1 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
PRINCEP              80% WP                     PRINCEP CALIBER
                                                90
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Same as previous listing for simazine.
 
REMARKS:  Do not exceed 1.25 lbs per acre per treatment on newly sprigged 
turfgrass or on hybrid bermudagrass such as Tiflawn, Tifway, and Ormond.  
For continued summer annual weed control, apply another 1.25 lbs. per acre at 
least 30 days after the previous application, but not after April 15.  
However, do not make more than two applications of this product per year.
 
Precautions:  On newly sprigged turfgrass and hybrid bermudagrass, temperary 
slowing of growth and yellowing may occur following application.  To avoid 
turf injury, (1) Use only on turfgrass reasonably free of infestations of 
insects, nematodes, and diseases.  (2) Do not use on golf greens.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  St. Augustine, centipedegrass, zoysiagrass bermudagrass 
(Tiflawn, Tifway, Ormond only). 
 
CHEMICAL:  atrazine
 
RATE:  2 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION               TRADE NAME          FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
AATREX               80% WP                    WEED & FEED W/      granular
                                                 ATRAZINE
                                                 25-4-6
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Annual bluegrass, annual morningglory, barnyardgrass 
(watergrass), burclover, carpet burweed, chickweed, cocklebur, corn speedwell, 
giant foxtail, green foxtail, groundcherry, large (hairy) crabgrass, henbit, 
hop clover, jimsonweed, kochia, lambsqarters, mustards, nightshade, pigweed, 
purslane, ragweed, sicklepod, velvetleaf (buttonweed) spurweed, witchgrass 
(Panicum capillare), yellow foxtail. 
REMARKS:  Apply in late summer to fall before emergence of winter annual 
weeds.  Atrazine will control annual bluegrass even if emerged at time of 
treatment.  Apply in late winter to early spring before emergence of summer 
annual weeds.  For preemergence control of annual bluegrass use 1 lb ai/ac.  
Use 2 lb ai/ac for all other weeds listed.  Do not exceed 1 lb ai/ac per 
applicationon newly sprigged turfgrass or on hybrid bermudagrasses such as 
Tiflawn, Tifway, and Ormond.  For continued summer annual weed control apply 
another 1 lb ai/ac at least 30 days later but not after April 15.  Do not make 
more than 2 applications per year.  On newly sprigged turfgrass temporary 
slowing of growth and yellowing may occur following application.  Use only on 
turfgrasses reasonably free of insects, diseases, and nematodes.  Do not use 
on golf course greens.  Do not use on muck or alkaline soils.  Do not apply 
over the rooting area of trees or ornamentals not listed on the product label.  
Do not overseed with turfgrass within 4 months before or 6 months after 
application.  Do not apply to newly seeded bermudagrass until it has a well-
developed rhizome system.  Do not exceed 1.75 lb ai/ac within 12 months of 
seeding bermudagrass.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRASSES:  Turfgrasses for sod production--St. Augustine, centipedegrass, 
zoysia grass bermudagrass (Tiflawn, Tifway, Ormond only). 
 
CHEMICAL:  atrazine
 
RATE:  1 lb ai/ac + 1 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
AATREX               80% WP                     AATREX NINE-O
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Same as previous listing for atrazine.
 
REMARKS:  Do not exceed 1.25 lb/A per treatment on newly sprigged turfgrass or 
on hybrid bermudagrass such as Tiflawn, Tifway, and Ormond.
 
For continued summer annual weed control, apply another 1.25 lb/A at least 30 
days after the previous application, but not after April 15.  However, do not 
make more than two applications of this product per year.
Precautions:  On newly sprigged turfgrass and hybrid bermudagrass, temporary 
slowing of growth and yellowing may occur following application.  To avoid 
turf injury, (1) Use only on turfgrass reasonably free of infestations of 
insects, nematodes, and diseases.  (2) Do not use on golf greens.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass overseeded with perennial ryegrass.
 
CHEMICAL:  fenarimol
 
RATE:  2 oz/1,000 sq ft first application, 1.5 oz/1,000 sq ft second 
application 10-14 days later, 1 oz/1,000 sq ft third application 10-14 days 
later.
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
RUBIGAN              50% WP
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Poa annua, annual bluegrass
REMARKS:  For optimum control of Poa annua, Rubigan should be applied in 
premergence program.  Rubigan can be applied in single application or series 
of two or three applications to reach 2.0-3.0 oz/1,000 sq ft rate that is 
necessary for Poa annua control.  Whether single or multiple application 
method is used, make final application 2 wk before scheduled overseeding of 
bermudagrass area.  Timing is critical issue in this program.  Most consistent 
Poa annua control is achieved when Rubigan is applied before germination of 
any Poa annua seeds.  For this reason, three-application method may offer more 
consistent control because the initial Rubigan application is made before Poa 
annua germination.  If later overseeding date is scheduled, three-application 
method is the most desirable.  A single 2-oz application of Rubigan in this 
situation may be applied later than optimum application timing. 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermuda, zoysia, centipede, St. Augustine only
 
CHEMICAL:  R pronamide
 
RATE:  0.5 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
KERB                 50% WP                     PROTURF POA        0.32%
                                                  ANNUA CONTROL    granular
                                                  PLUS FERTILIZER
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Poa annua, annual bluegrass
 
REMARKS:  Apply in mid-August before Poa annua seed germination.  Can also be 
used postemergence at increased rate to control cool season grasses.  Do  
not use on fescue, Kentucky blue grass or bentgrass.
 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Centipede, St. Augustine, zoysia, common bermuda
 
CHEMICAL:  atrazine
 
RATE:  2 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
AATREX 80W & 4L      80% WP                     ORTHO ST.
BONUS TYPE S         0.79% granular               AUGUSTINE WEED
SUPER BONUS S        0,6% granular                & FEED 21-4-4
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, annual bluegrass, annual ryegrass, common 
chickweed, lambsquarters, pigweed, foxtail.
 
REMARKS:  Same as simazine.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass (excluding golf course greens), bahiagrass, 
                      centipedegrass, tall fescue, St. Augustine and Zoysia.
 
CHEMICAL:  oryzalin
 
RATE:  2 to 3 lb ai/ac single application, 1.5 + 1.5 lb ai/ac split 
       application.
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
SURFLAN A.S.          1 lb ai/qt                 SURFLAN 75W       75% WP                                                                  
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Annual bluegrass, crabgrasses, goosegrass, barnyardgrass, 
foxtails, crowfootgrass, Johnsongrass, sandbur, ryegrass, carpetweed, 
prostrate knotweed, common purlane, common chickweed, henbit, common 
groundsel, prostrate spurge, yellow woodsorrel.
REMARKS:  Apply Surflan at least 2 wk before germination of annual grass 
weeds.  All summer annual grasses do not germinate at same time.  If 
application timing does not coincide with normal germination period of any of 
annual grass weeds listed on this label, weed control results may be erratic 
or poor.  Optimum weed control performance will be obtained in absence of 
timely rainfall if treated areas are irrigated soon after application.  Any 
cultural practices that disturb soil, such as aerification or verticutting, 
should be done before application of Surflan.  A spring application of Surflan 
will thin overseeded cool-season grasses.  The split application 8 to 10 weeks 
apart is recommended where tall fescue is the dominant turf.  This is an 
orange chemical.  if this temporary coloration is undesirable, use a 
commercially available turf spray colorant or spray pattern indicator.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bluegrass, bermudagrass, perennial ryegrass, St. 
Augustine, tall fescue, and zoysia.  (fairways, parks, golf courses & lawns)
 
CHEMICAL:  oxadiazon
 
RATE:  2 to 4 lb ai/ac (100 to 200 lb/ac)
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
RONSTAR G            2% granular
REGAL RONSTAR        2% on granular 10-10-10 
  PLUS                 fertilizer
      
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, goosegrass, annual bluegrass, Florida pusley, 
oxalis, stinging nettle, carpetgrass, pigweed.
REMARKS:  Rake turf free of leaves, mowing if necessary so granules reach soil 
surface.  Measure area to be treated and uniformly apply required amount using 
fertilizer spreader.  Do not apply to wet turf.  Thoroughly irrigate following 
application to increase effectiveness.  May cause temporary discoloration of 
bermuda and St. Augustine, which is normally outgrown within 2 to 3 wk.  Red 
fescue and bentgrass are not tolerant to Ronstar.  Do not apply to 
centipedegrass.  Do not use on putting greens or tees because of varying 
cultural practices used.  For St. Augustine grass, do not exceed rate of 150 
lb/ac).  For crabgrass and goosegrass control, apply in early spring (March) 
before seed germination.  For annual grass control, apply 200 lb/ac (4 lb ai) 
in late summer (Aug.) before seed germination.  Wait 4 mo before reseeding.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, bluegrass, excluding greens and tees.
 
CHEMICAL:  oxadiazon + benefin
 
RATE:  200 lbs/ac or 4 1/2 lb/1000 sq ft
 
_____________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_____________________________________________________________________________
REGAL STAR           1.0% + 0.5% on
                       granular 38% 
                       ureaformaldehyde
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, goosegrass, crowfootgrass.
 
REMARKS:  Apply in early spring (February-Mid April) before weed grass seed 
germination.  Apply to dry foliage only.  Do not apply to wet turf.  Irrigate 
to wash granules off dry turf.  Apply enough water to change the granule color 
from bright green to blue.  Color change indicates when herbicides have been 
rinsed from fertilizer carrier onto soil surface for herbicide effectiveness.
Not for use on greens or tees.  Germination of overseeded grasses may be 
reduced by as much as 50% if seeded within 6 months of a spring application.
 
On newly seeded bermudagrass and bluegrass delay application until after  
second mowing.  Use on newly sprigged bermudagrass and bluegrass after stolons 
have rooted and grass has filled in.
 
Do not contaminate any body of water.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, bahiagrass, centipede, St. Augustine, 
zoysia, tall fescue.
 
CHEMICAL:  benefin + oryzalin
 
RATE:  2 to 3 lb ai/ac (100 to 150 lb/ac)
_____________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_____________________________________________________________________________
ELANCO XL 2G         2% granular
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrasses, foxtails, barnyardgrass, goosegrass, annual 
bluegrass, crowfootgrass, Johnsongrass, annual ryegrass, sandbur, 
carpetweed, prostrate knotweed, common purslane, common chickweed, henbit.
REMARKS:  Apply XL Granular approximately 1-2 wk before germination of annual 
grass weeds.  All summer annual grasses do not germinate at same time.  If 
application timing does not coincide with normal germination period of any of 
annual grass weeds listed on this label, weed control results may be erratic 
or poor.  Optimum weed control performance will be obtained if treated areas 
are irrigated soon after application.  Any cultural practices that disturb 
soil, such as aerification or verticutting, should be done before application 
of XL.  Second application at recommended rate may be made 8-10 wk after 
initial treatment for continued control.  Chemicals that effectively control 
annual weed seeds may also affect new desirable turfgrass seedlings. 
 
Reseeding should be delayed for at least 6 wk after applying XL.  When 
reseeding, it is essential that proper cultural practices, such as soil 
cultivation, irrigation, and fertilization be followed.  For satisfactory 
reseeding results after using XL, the amount of seed used should be increased 
and equipment designed to place seed in contact with soil (such as Rogers Aero 
Seeder) should be employed.  When using XL at highest rate, reseeding should 
be delayed 12-16 wk after application.
Application Equipment:  Apply XL Granular evenly over turfgrass area without 
skips or misses.  More uniform application can be made by spreading half the 
required amount over area and then applying remaining half at right angles.  
Both drop-type and rotary-type spreaders may be used.  Avoid use of spreaders 
that would apply material in narrow, concentrated bands.  For best results, 
use equipment designed to apply granular herbicides and insecticides.  
Calibrate applicators before use according to manufacturer's directions.  
Check frequently to be sure equipment is working properly and distributing 
granules uniformly.  Apply XL Granular to turf before germination of weed 
grasses since XL will not control established weeds.  XL Granular may thin 
established annual bluegrass (Poa annua) turfs and cool-season turfgrasses 
except tall fescue.  XL Granular should be applied in spring to turfgrass 
planted previous fall.  In bermudagrass areas that have been over-seeded with 
winter grasses, spring application of XL may thin overseeded grasses.  XL 
Granular should not be used on dichondra.  It should not be applied to newly 
sprigged areas of bermudagrass, St. Augustine, or centipedegrass until these 
turfs are well established.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Centipede, St. Augustine, zoysia, and common bermuda.
 
CHEMICAL:  atrazine
 
RATE:  2 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
PURGE                4 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Annual bluegrass-F or W, chickweed (common and mousear)-F, 
crabgrass-S. cranesbill-Sp. cudweed-Sp, dichondra-Sp and S, Florida betony-F & 
W, henbit-Sp, knotweed-S, lespedeza-S, moneywort-Sp & S, mustards-F, 
narrowleaf vetch-F, parsley piert-Sp or F, sandspur-Sp, smutgrass-Sp, spurge-
S, spurweed-W, swinecress-F or W, woodsorrel-Sp or F, clovers annual-S or F. 
 
REMARKS:  Above are names of weeds controlled by Purge and time of application 
that will give best control.  Abbreviations are W-Winter, Sp-Spring, S-Summer, 
and F-Fall. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Cool Season Grasses:  Kentucky bluegrass, perennial 
ryegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue.
 
CHEMICAL:  pendimethalin
 
RATE:  1.5 lb ai/ac to 2.0 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
PROTURF WEEDGRASS    60% Water Dispersable
  CONTROL 60 WDG       granules
LESCO PRE-M 60 DG    60% Dispersable granules
PROTURF TURF WEED-
  GRASS CONTROL      1.71% granular
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, foxtail, annua bluegrass, barnyardgrass, fall 
panicum, oxalis, henbit, evening primrose, prostrate spurge, purslane, 
knotweed, common and mouseear chickweed, hop clover, cudweed, goosegrass.
REMARKS:  1.5 lb ai/ac to 2.0 lb ai/ac as the first application prior to weed 
seed germination.  Make a repeat application at 1 to 1.5 lb ai/ac after 6 to 8 
wk for extended control or where heavy weed crop is expected.  Irrigate 
following each application.  Delay seeding by 4 months and sprigging by 5 
months following application. 
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  goosegrass
 
REMARKS:  1.5 to 2.0 lb ai/ac in the spring before weed seed germination.  
Make a repeat application after 6 to 8 wk at 1.5 to 2 lbs ai/ac.  Irrigate 
following each application.  Delay seeding by 4 months and sprigging by 5 
months following application.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  bentgrass (1/2 inch height or taller), not for use on 
greens or tees.
 
CHEMICAL:  Pendimethalin
 
RATE:  1.5 lb ai/ac
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME             FORMULATION                
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
PROTURF WEEDGRASS      60% Water Dispersable
  CONTROL 60 WDG         granules
LESCO PRE-M 60 DG      60% Dispersable 
                         granules
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, foxtail, annual bluegrass, barnyardgrass, fall 
panicum, oxalis, prostrate spurge, purslane, knotweed.
REMARKS:  1.5 lb ai/ac in the spring prior to weed seed germination.  Make a 
repeat application of 1 to 1.5 lb ai/ac after 6 to 8 wk where heavy weed crop 
is expected.  Irrigate following application.  Delay seeding by 4 months and 
sprigging by 5 months following application.
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  goosegrass
 
REMARKS:  1.5 lb ai/ac in the spring before weed seed germination.  Make a 
repeat application of 1.5 lb ai/ac after 6 to 8 wk.  Irrigate following 
application.  Delay seeding by 4 months and sprigging by 5 months following 
application.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Warm Season Grasses:  bermudagrass (non-winter 
overseeded), St. Augustinegrass, bahiagrass, zoysiagrass, centipedegrass, tall 
fescue.
 
CHEMICAL:  pendimethalin
 
RATE:  1.5 to 3.0 lb ai/ac
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME             FORMULATION                
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
PROTURF WEEDGRASS      60% Water Dispersable
  CONTROL 60 WDG         Granules
LESCO PRE-M 60 DG      60% Dispersable granules
PROTURF TURF           1.71% granular
  WEEDGRASS CONTROL
PROTURF SOUTHERN       2.45% granular
  WEEDGRASS CONTROL
PROTURF 34-4-4 TURF    1.30% granular
  FERTILIZER PLUS
  WEEDGRASS CONTROL
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, foxtail, annual bluegrass, barnyardgrass, fall 
panicum, oxalis, prostrate spurge, purslane, knotweed, chickweed.
 
REMARKS:  1.5 to 3.0 lb ai/ac prior to weed seed germination.  Repeat at 1 to 
1.5 lb ai/ac after 6 to 8 wk if necessary.  May cause yellow or thin cool 
season grasses overseeded on turf.  Delay seeding by 4 months to sprigging by 
5 months.
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  goosegrass
 
REMARKS:  1.5 to 3.0 lb ai/ac before weed seed germination.  Make a repeat 
application of 1.5 to 2.0 lb ai/ac to extend control of goosegrass or if the 
lower rate was initially used.  May cause yellow or thin cool season grasses 
overseeded in turf.  Delay seeding by 4 months and sprigging by 5 months.
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Cudweed, hop clover, evening primrose, henbit.
 
REMARKS:  3.0 lb ai/ac prior to weed seed germination.  May cause yellow or 
thin cool season grasses overseeded in turf.  Delays seeding by 4 months and 
sprigging by 5 months.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, tall fescue, bentgrass, 
perennial bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.  Fairways, tees, and bermudagrass 
and bentgrass greens.
 
CHEMICAL:  bensulide + oxadiazon 
 
RATE:  6 lb ai/ac + 1.5 lb ai/ac
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
PROTURF              5.25% granular + 1.31%          
  GOOSEGRASS/        granular                                          
   CRABGRASS CONTROL
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, goosegrass.
 
REMARKS:  On bermudagrass and bentgrass putting greens, this product may cause 
yellow and thin turf for up to 4 weeks.  Use on greens only for very heavy 
goosegrass infestations.  Do not use on newly seeded bermudagrass until after 
second mowing.  On newly sprigged bermuda, wait until grass has filled in and 
stolons have rooted down before application.  Delay 5 months before reseeding 
or overseeding.  Irrigate 1/4 to 1/2 inch immeditely following application.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, centipede, St. Augustine, fescue, 
bahiagrass. 
 
CHEMICAL:  napropamide 
 
RATE:  2 to 3 lb/ac 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
 
DEVRINOL             5G                         DEVRINOL           50WP 
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Crabgrass, goosegrass, annual bluegrass. 
 
REMARKS:  To control crabgrass and goosegrass (split application only), apply 
at rate and during periods recommended below.  Apply 2-3 wk before weed 
emergence. 
Single Application:  For crabgrass control apply 60 lb 5-G or 6 lb 50WP/ac 
between Oct.-Dec. 31 or 40-60 lb 5-G (4 to 6 lb 50WP)/ac between Jan. 1-Feb. 
15. 
 
Split Application:  To control goosegrass use two applications of 40 lb 5-G or 
4 lb 50WP/ac; each between /Feb. 1-April 20.  Apply 8 to 10 wk apart.  Timing 
should be adjusted to weed seed germination in your area of S. C.  First 
application is for crabgrass control; second for crabgrass and goosegrass.  
Split applications give longer and better weed control than one application.  
Do not reseed or overseed within 6 mo after application.  Minimum of 1/2 in 
rainfall or irrigation within 2 to 3 days after application required for 
adequate weed control.  With 50WP formulation use 80-120 gal water/ac.  Where 
rate range is given, use higher rate when heavy weed infestation expected.  
For annual bluegrass (Poa annua) control:  Application of Devrinol 50WP 
Ornamental should be made in fall before annual bluegrass germinates.  Apply 
4-6 lb Deverinol 50WP Ornamental/ac in 80-120 gal water (1.5-2.25 oz/2 1/2 gal 
water/1,000 sq ft). 
Devrinol 50 WP Ornamental/Betasan 4E combination:  Devrinol 50WP Ornamental 
may be used as tank mix combination with Betasan 4E for crabgrass control in 
following established turf grasses:  bahia, bermudagrass, centipede, St. 
Augustine, and fescue.  Apply 4 lb Devrinol 50WP Ornamental and 5 qt Betasan 
4E/ac using minimum of 80 gal water.  Application should be made at least 2-3 
wk before earliest germination date for crabgrass in your area.  Devrinol 50WP 
Ornamental/Betasan 4E combination requires minimum of 1/2 in of rainfall or 
irrigation 2-3 days after application for adequate control.  If irrigation is 
not available, application should be delayed several wk to allow for some 
rainfall between application and weed germination.
 
Tank-Mixing Directions:  Add recommended amount of Devrinol 50WP Ornamental to 
spray tank while filling with water.  After Devrinol 50WP Ornamental is 
thoroughly wetted out and dispersed in all the water, then add recommended 
amount of Betasan 4E and mix to provide uniform dispersion.  Apply in at least 
80 gal water/ac.
 
Reseeding:  Do not reseed or overseed within 6 mo after application. 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NONSELECTIVE WEED AND GRASS CONTROL NEAR ORNAMENTALS AND TURF        
-DOC-
        NONSELECTIVE WEED AND GRASS CONTROL NEAR ORNAMENTALS AND TURF
                   Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, bluegrass, perennial 
ryegrass.  (fairways, parks, golf courses, lawns)
 
CHEMICAL:  R methyl bromide 
 
RATE:  1 lb/100 sq ft
________________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME            FORMULATION               TRADE NAME          FORMULATION 
________________________________________________________________________________
DOWFUME MC-2         l-lb can liquid            BROMOGAS
PESTMASTER           gas under pressure--       PROFUME
                     when released,             
                     forms gas
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Nonselective (all weeds).
REMARKS:  Chemical is applied under covering, usually plastic.  Rate 
recommended is sufficient for control of most weeds under normal environmental 
conditions.  Increase application rate in wet, heavy soils and if temperature 
is below 60 degrees F.  This chemical is effective against many weeds, soil 
insects, some nematodes, and disease organisms.  Can be very hazardous if not 
handled according to directions. Follow directions to the letter.  
 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, bluegrass, perennial 
ryegrass. (fairways, parks, golf courses, lawns)
 
CHEMICAL:  metam-sodium
 
RATE:  1 qt/100 sq ft
 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
VAPAM                aqueous                    VPM                solutions
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Nonselective (all weeds).
 
REMARKS:  A covering is not necessary as with methyl bromide but increases 
effectiveness if used.  Chemical can be applied as liquid or may be injected 
with proper equipment.  Soil penetration depends on amount of water used.  
Follow directions to the letter.
 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, bluegrass, perennial 
ryegrass.  (fairways, parks, golf courses, lawns)
 
CHEMICAL:  sodium arsenite
 
RATE:  300-1,200 lb/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________ 
ORTHO ARSENICAL                                 ATLAS A 
  WEEDKILLER                                    F & B WEEDKILLER  
PENITE                                            
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Nonselective, semipermanent soil sterilization.
 
REMARKS:  Use in gravel parking areas, under blacktop drives, stadiums, or 
areas where ornamentals and turf are not desired.  Keep livestock off treated 
areas.  Do not use in root zone of desirable trees and shrubs.  Do not use on 
lawns or in gardens.  
 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, bluegrass, perennial 
ryegrass. (fairways, parks, golf courses, lawns)
 
CHEMICAL:  ureabor, vacate, or similar chemicals
 
RATE:  Follow manufacturer's recommendations.
______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
UREABOR                                         VACATE
LESCOBOR
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Same as sodium arsenite.
 
REMARKS:  Use in gravel parking areas, under blacktop drives, stadiums, or 
areas where ornamentals and turf are not desired.  Chemical is not as toxic as 
sodium arsenite.
 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, bluegrass, perennial 
ryegrass. (fairways, parks, golf courses, lawns)
 
CHEMICAL:  simazine (wettable powder or granular)
 
RATE:  10-40 lb ai/ac (12 1/2 to 50 lb simazine 80W; 250-1,000 lb or 4% 
granular).
_____________________________________________________________________________ 
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_____________________________________________________________________________ 
PRINCEP 4G &         4% granular
80% WP               80% WP
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Nonselective.
 
REMARKS:  Parking areas, fence lines, or other areas where ornamentals and 
turf are not desired.  Do not use in root zone of desirable trees and shrubs.
 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, bluegrass, perennial 
ryegrass. (fairways, parks golf courses, lawns)
 
CHEMICAL:  R  paraquat 
 
RATE:  0.5 lb ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________ 
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                             
______________________________________________________________________________ 
GRAMOXONE SUPER      1.5 ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Nonselective and non-residual.  Also effective for control 
of annual grasses and broadleaf weeds in dormant bermuda, zoysia, and 
centipede turf. 
REMARKS:  Applied with a surfactant or wetting agent such as X-77.  Can be 
applied as directed basal spray around woody ornamental plants and trees.  Can 
be used to edge lawns without fear of volatility or runoff.  Restricted to 
commercial use only.  Can be tank mixed and compatible with many residual 
herbicides such as atrazine and simazine. 
 
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, bluegrass, perennial 
ryegrass.  (fairways, parks, golf courses, lawns)
 
CHEMICAL: dimethylarsinic acid (cacodylic acid)
 
RATE: 3 1/2 to 5 lb ai/ac, 10 fl oz/a,ooo sq ft (2.48 lb ai/gal)
______________________________________________________________________________ 
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________
PHYTAR 560           2.48 lb/ai/gal             CONTAX             1 lb ai/gal
ERASE                                           SPOT-KIL
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Nonselective; perennial weed regrowth will occur in 6 to 8 
wk. 
 
REMARKS:  Applied with surfactant or wetting agent.  Can be applied as 
directed basal spray around woody ornamental plants and trees.  Can be used to 
edge lawns without fear of volatility or runoff.
 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, bluegrass, perennial 
ryegrass. (fairways, parks, golf courses, lawns)
 
CHEMICAL:  dalapon
 
RATE:  5 lb/ac
______________________________________________________________________________ 
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________ 
BASFAPON             85% WP                     DOWPON
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Perennial and annual grasses.
 
REMARKS:  Two applications spaced 7 to 10 days apart plus a wetting agent or 
surfactant should give good grass control.  Additional applications may be 
needed as mop-up spray.  With care at rate recommended, Dowpon has been used 
to control grasses around some trees and shrubs.  When used to edge around 
turf areas, some damage has occurred to turf after heavy rain. 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, bluegrass, perennial 
ryegrass. (fairways, parks, golf courses, lawns)
 
CHEMICAL:  glyphosate (41%)
 
RATE:  1 to 5 qt/ac, 2 oz (4 tbsp)/gal of water/1,000 sq ft for annual weeds, 
3 oz (6 tbsp)/gal of water/1,000 sq ft for perennial weeds. 
_______________________________________________________________________________
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION
_______________________________________________________________________________ 
ROUNDUP              3 lb ai/gal
 
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Annual bluegrass, downy brome, crabgrass, foxtail, 
fleabane, kochia, lambsquarters, prickly lettuce, panicum, pigweed, ragweed, 
sandspur, shattercane, smartweed (Pennsylvania), thistle, velvetleaf, 
volunteer wheat, bermudagrass, field bindweed, Kentucky bluegrass, 
dallisgrass, dock (curly), dogbane, fescues, johnsongrass, milkweed, muhly, 
mullein, naplergrass, nightshade, paragrass, quackgrass, smartweed (swamp), 
thistle (Canada), vaseygrass.
REMARKS:  Not recommended for domestic application except by professional 
applicators.  When applied as directed under conditions described on the 
label, glyphosate controls most existing vegetation.  Apply glyphosate at rate 
specified in "Weeds Controlled" section of label before turfgrass 
establishment or renovation.  Perennial weeds require higher rate of 
application than annual weeds.  DO NOT DISTURB SOIL OR UNDERGROUND PLANT PARTS 
BEFORE TREATMENT.  AVOID CONTACT OF SPRAY WITH FOLIAGE OF DESIRABLE TURFGRASS, 
TREES, SHRUBS, OR OTHER DESIRABLE VEGETATION SINCE SEVERE DAMAGE OR 
DESTRUCTION MAY RESULT.  Glyphosate does not provide residual weed control.  
For subsequent weed control, follow a label-approved-herbicide program.
 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ESTABLISHED GRASSES:  Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, bluegrass, perennial 
ryegrass.  (fairways, parks, golf courses, lawns)
 
CHEMICAL:  glyphosate 
 
RATE:  8 fl oz (1 cup)/1 gal water/250 sq ft (5%)
______________________________________________________________________________ 
TRADE NAME           FORMULATION                TRADE NAME         FORMULATION
______________________________________________________________________________ 
ORTHO KLEENUP        5% solution                BLOT-OUT           5% solution
  SYSTEMIC WEED                                 systemic weed & 
  AND GRASS                                     grass  
  KILLER                                        killer
 
ORTHO KLEENUP        0.5% solution              BLOT-OUT ready-      0.96%
ready-to-use                                    to-use weed &
weed & grass                                    grass killer
killer (for
domestic use)
WEEDS CONTROLLED:  Most weeds and grasses, including but not exclusive of 
bahiagrass, bermudagrass, blackberries, chickweed, clover, dandelion, fescue, 
Florida pusley, henbit, orchard grass, oxalis, pennywort, poison ivy, 
sandspur, St. Augustinegrass, yellow nutsedge, zoysia, crabgrass, plantains, 
dandelions, sandbur.
 
REMARKS:  This nonselective, systemic herbicide can control weeds, grasses, or 
undesirable vegetation along fences, sidewalks and driveways; around trees, 
shrubs, ornamentals; in brick and gravel walkways; for spot treatment in 
lawns; around buildings.  Apply when vegetation is growing.  Warm, sunny 
weather hastens systemic movement from leaves and stems to roots for complete 
kill.  Heavy lawn grass or hard-to-control perennial weeds such as 
bermudagrass, nimble-will dandelion, or Canada thistle may need repeat 
application for regrowth.  Best to apply on sunny day when temp is at least 
F and only in calm air.  Do not use around edible feed or food crops.  Do 
not apply when rainfall is expected in 24 hr.  Follow label directions for 
rate and application.  (FOR DOMESTIC USE BY HOMEOWNER.)
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ADJUVANTS, SURFACTANTS, WETTING, SPREADING, OR STICKER AGENTS         
-DOC-
         ADJUVANTS, SURFACTANTS, WETTING, SPREADING, OR STICKER AGENTS
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
TWEEN 20--nonionic                  Atlas Chemical Industries, Inc.
  agricultural                      New Murphy Road & Concord Pike
  surfactant                        Wilmington, Delaware 19899
 
X-77                                Allied Chemical Corporation
  spreader-sticker                  40 Rector Street
                                    New York, NY 10005
 
SPREADER-ACTIVATOR                  Chipman Division
                                    Rhodia, Inc.
                                    120 Jersey Ave.
                                    New Brunswick, NJ 08903
SPREADER-STICKER                    E. I. du Pont de Nemours & Co., Inc.
                                    Industrial & Biochemicals Dept.
                                    1007 Market Street
                                    Wilmington, Delaware 19801
 
LESCO SPREADER-STICKER              LESCO, INC. 
                                    20005 Lake Road
                                    Rocky River, OH  44116
 
AMWAY ALL-PURPOSE                   Amway Corp.
  SPRAY ADJUVANT                    Ada, MI 49355
 
SURFACTANT WK                       E. I. du Pont de Nemours & Co., Inc.
                                    Industrial & Biochemicals Dept.
                                    1007 Market Street
                                    Wilmington, Delaware 19801
SPREADER-STICKER                    E-Z Flo Chemical Co.
                                    Div. Grower Service Corp.
                                    Suite 100 Stoddard Corp.
                                    P. O. Box 808
                                    Lansing, Michigan 48933
 
ORTHO X-77                          Chevron Chemical Co.
                                    Ortho Divison
                                    411 E. Marlton Pike
                                    Cherry Hill NJ 08034
 
SPREADER-STICKER                    SCIENCE Products Co., Inc.
                                    2840 N. Greenview Avenue
                                    Chicago, Illinois 60614
 
TRITON B-1956 Spreader Sticker      Rohm & Haas
TRITON AG-98  Spreader Activator    Philadelphia, PA 19105
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUSCEPTIBILITY OF BROADLEAF WEEDS IN TURFGRASS TO HERBICIDES         
-DOC-
         SUSCEPTIBILITY OF BROADLEAF WEEDS IN TURFGRASS TO HERBICIDES
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Bindweed  
 Convolvulus arvensis               S                S-I                 S
Bittercress
 Cardamine hirsuta                  S                 I                  S
Black medic
 Medicago lupulina                  R                 I                  S
Buttercup
 Ranunculus repens                 S-I                I                  S
Carpetweed
 Mollugo verticillata               S                 S                  S
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Chickweed, common
 Stellaria media                    R                S-I                 S
 mouse-ear
  Cerastium vulgatum               I-R               S-I                 S
Chicory
 Cichorium intybus                  S                 S                  S
Cinquefoil, common
 Potentilla canadensis             S-I               S-I                S-I
Clover, crimson                     
 Trifolium incarnatum               S                 S                  S
  hop
   Trifolium agrarium               I                 S                  S
  white
   Trifolium repens                 I                 S                  S
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Cranesbill
 Geranium carolinianum              S                S-I                 S
Daisy, English
 Bellis perennis                    R                 I                  S
Daisy, oxeye
 Chrysanthemum leucanthemum         I                 I                  I
Dandelion
 Taraxacum spp.                     S                 S                  S
Dock
 Rumex obtusifolius                 I                I-R                 S
Dogfennel
 Eupatorium capillifolium           I                 I                  S
Garlic, wild
 Allium vineale                    S-I                R                 S-I
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
Ground ivy
 Glechoma hederacea                I-R                I                 S-I
Hawkweed
 Hieracium pilosella               S-I                R                 S-I
Healall
 Prunnella vulgaris                S-I               S-I                 S
Henbit
 Lamium amplexicaule                I                 I                  S
Knapweed, spotted
 Centaurea maculosa                 I                 I                  S
Knawel
 Scleranthus annuus                 R                 I                  S
Knotweed
 Polygonum aviculare                R                 I                  S
Lambsquarter
 Chenopodium album                  S                 S                  S
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Lespedeza
 Lespedeza striata                 I-R                S                  S
Mallow, roundleaf
 Malva rotundifolia                I-R                I                 S-I
Mugwort
 Artemesia vulgaris                 I                I-R                S-I
Mustards
 Brassica spp.                      S                 I                  S
Nutsedge
 Cyperus spp.                       I                 R                  R
Onion, wild
 Allium canadense                   I                 R                 S-I
Ornamental plants                  S-I               S-I                 S
Parsley piert
 Alchemilla microcarpa              R                I-R                S-I
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Pearlwort, birdseye
 Sagina procumbens                 I-R                S                  S
Pennycress
 Thalaspi arvense                   S                 I                  S
Pennywort, lawn
 Hydrocotyl sibthorpioides         S-I               S-I                --
Pepperweed
 Lepidium campestri                 S                S-I                 S
Pigweed
 Amaranthus spp.                    S                 S                  S
Pineappleweed
 Matricaria matricarioides         I-R                I                  I
Plantains
 Plantago spp.                      S                I-R                I-R
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Poison ivy
 Rhus spp.                          I                 R                 S-I
Pony foot
 Dichondra spp.                     S                 I                 S-I
Prostrate spurge
 Euphorbia supina                   I                 I                  S
Purslane
 Portulaca oleracea                 I                 R                  S
Red sorrel
 Rumex acetosella                   R                 R                  S
Shepherdspurse
 Capsella bursa-pastoria            S                S-I                 S
Speedwell
 Veronica spp.                     I-R               I-R                I-R
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Spotted spurge
 Euphorbia maculata                I-R               S-I                S-I
Spurrey, corn
 Spergula arvensis                  R                --                  S
Spurweed
 Soliva pterosperma                 R                S-I                S-I
Thistle, musk, curl
 Cirsium spp., Carduus spp.         S                 I                  S
Thistle, Canada
 Salsola kali var. tenuifolia       I                 I                  S
Vegetables                          S                 S                  S
Wild carrot
 Daucus carota                      S                S-I                 S
Wild strawberry
 Fragaria vesca                     R                 R                 S-I
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Wild violet
 Viola spp.                        I-R               I-R                I-R
Woodsorrel
 Oxalis stricta                     R                 R                  I
Yarrow
 Achillea millefolium               I                I-R                 S
Yellow rocket
 Barbarea vulgaris                 S-I                I                 S-I
______________________________________________________________________________
 
S = weed susceptible.
I = intermediate, good control at times with high rates, sometimes poor, 
    usually require more than one treatment.
R = resistant weeds in most instances.
______________________________________________________________________________
  Broadleaf weeds are most easily controlled with postemergence herbicides 
when young and tender.
   Apply postemergence herbicies on winter broadleaf weeds in fall, warm 
periods of winter, and very early spring.
  On summer broadleaf weeds apply postemergence herbicides in spring and early 
summer.
  Repeat applications at 1- to 2-week intervals are usually necessary for 
complete control.
  Many of the broadleaf weeds, especially annuals, can be controlled with a 
preemergence herbicide which kills the germinating seed.  Apply a preemergence 
herb before seed germination.
  To control winter broadleaf weeds from seed, apply a preemergence herbicide 
in late summer (mid-August).
  To control summer broadleaf weeds from seed, apply a preemergence herbicide 
in early spring (March).
  The preceeding herbicides are available under a number of different trade 
names at garden centers, farm supply stores, turf supply dealers, and hard 
ware stores.  Some are available in granular formulations with turf 
fertilizers.  Most are available in liquid formulation for spray application.  
There are a few two-way and three-way combination products for broader spectrum 
broadleaf weed control.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TRADE NAMES FOR THE COMMON TURF FUNGICIDES                  
-DOC-
                  TRADE NAMES FOR THE COMMON TURF FUNGICIDES
                  R. A. Haygood, Extension Plant Pathologist 

_______________________________________________________________________________
Common Name             Trade Name*
_______________________________________________________________________________
anilazine               Dyrene
benomyl                 Tersan 1991
                          Security Benomyl Spray
chloroneb               Terraneb SP
chlorothalonil 75W      Daconil 2787                                           
chlorothalonil 29.6%    Ortho Multi-purpose Fungicide Daconil 2787
chlorothalonil 40.4%    Daconil 2787 Flowable
chlorothalonil 54%      Daconil 2787F
cycloheximide           Acti-dione TGF
cycloheximide-thiram    Acti-dione-Thiram
etridiazole             Koban, Terrazole

*The mention of a product does not constitute a recommendation or an endorse-
ment, and discrimination by the Clemson University Cooperative Extension 
Service is not implied by the exclusion of any comparable product.
Each specific label is the final authority on application rates and uses.
                  TRADE NAMES [DFOR THE COMMON TURF FUNGICIDES (cont)

_______________________________________________________________________________
Common Name             Trade Name*
_______________________________________________________________________________
fenaminosulf            Lesan
fenarimol               Rubigan
iprodione               Chipco 26019
maneb                   Security Maneb Spray, Dithane M-22 Special 
mancozeb                Fore, Tersan LSR, Dithane M-45, Manzate 200 Flowable,
metalaxyl               Subdue
PCNB                    Terraclor, Turfcide
propamocarb             Banol
thiophanate             Cleary's 3336
thiophanate-methyl      Fungo 50
triadimefon             Bayleton, Scotts Proturf Fungicide 7
vinclozolin             Vorlan

*The mention of a product does not constitute a recommendation or an endorse-
ment, and discrimination by the Clemson University Cooperative Extension 
Service is not implied by the exclusion of any comparable product.
Each specific label is the final authority on application rates and uses.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREPLANT APPLICATION BEFORE WEED SEED GERMINATION               
-DOC-
               PREPLANT APPLICATION BEFORE WEED SEED GERMINATION
                     John Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Most, except hard-         R methyl            Various              240-360 lb
seeded legumes and         bromide                                  (1/3 lb/
some deep-rooted           (surface                                 100 sq ft)
perennials.                applied)
 
REMARKS:  Till soil to a depth of at least 8 in.  Soil temperature should be 
above 50 degrees F.  Cover area with plastic for at least 24 hr after 
fumigation.  Remove cover and wait at least 3 days to 2 wk before planting.  
Soil moisture and soil temperature affect earliness of planting after 
fumigation.  Higher rate needed when high percentage of soil organic matter 
present.  NOTE:  Not restricted use if 1 1/2 lb container used. 
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Same as methyl             methyl bromide      Various              Rate 
bromide (surface           (soil                                    varies                            
applied)                   injected)                                with
                                                                    formula-
                                                                    tion and
                                                                    manu-
                                                                    facturer.
See note above.
 
REMARKS:  Inject in soil to depth of 6 in and cover immediately with plastic.  
Best results when soil moisture near field capacity and soil temperature above 
50 degrees F.  Allow 2 wk after plastic removal before transplanting.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Same as methyl             SMDC, VPM           1-2 qt/              Rate
bromide                      VAPAM 4S          100 sq ft            varies
(surface                                                            with
applied)                                                            method of
                                                                    applica-
                                                                    tion (1-2
                                                                    lb/100
                                                                    sq ft).
 
REMARKS:  Apply in water.  After application, apply additional water for water 
seal.  Plastic cover loosely laid gives better control.  Wait 2-4 wk after 
fumigation before planting.  Waiting period dependent on soil moisture and 
temperature.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses             trifluralin         1-2 pt               1/2-l lb
and some broad-              TREFLAN EC
leaf species.
 
REMARKS:  Prepare soil as for planting.  Apply herbicide and incorporate 
immediately to a depth of 2-3 in.  USE ONLY ON SPECIES LISTED ON LABEL.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Same as Treflan EC         trifluralin         80 lb                4 lb 
                             TREFLAN
                             GRANULAR
 
REMARKS:  Best weed control will be obtained when followed by overhead 
irrigation or rainfall within 2 hr after surface application.  Check label for 
rates if material is incorporated.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual weeds and           EPTC                5-7 pt               5-7 lb
certain perennials           EPTAM                                  Also
such as nutsedge             GENEP                                  available 
and bermudagrass                                                    as 
                                                                    granules
 
REMARKS:  Use lower rate for annual weeds.  Prepare soil as for planting.  
Apply herbicide to surface and incorporate to depth of 2-3 in.  FOLLOW LABEL 
DIRECTIONS AND USE ONLY ON SPECIES LISTED ON LABEL.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Many annual and            glyphosate          1-5 qt               1-5 lb
perennial weeds              ROUNDUP
 
REMARKS:  For nonselective weed control, apply to actively growing weeds.  
Higher rate needed to control perennials.  No residual control of annual 
weeds.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREEMERGENCE TO WEEDS IN ESTABLISHED STOCK                  
-DOC-
                  PREEMERGENCE TO WEEDS IN ESTABLISHED STOCK
                     John Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses full        trifluralin                              1/2-1 lb-      
season, some broad-          TREFLAN EC        1-2 pt               EC; 4 lb-G
leaf weeds.                  TREFLAN 5G        80 lb                Available 
                                                                    as a 
                                                                    liquid or
                                                                    granules
 
REMARKS:  Apply EC in 40 gal water/ac, incorporate lightly or irrigate shortly 
after application.  USE ONLY ON SPECIES LISTED ON LABEL.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Primarily annual           DCPA                10-14                7.5-10.5
grasses, some                DACTHAL                                Available
broadleaf weeds.             W-75                                   as
Also dodder.                                                        wettable.
                                                                    Also
                                                                    granules
 
REMARKS:  Apply in 20-40 gal water/ac.  Can expect 6-8 wk weed control.  USE 
ONLY ON SPECIES LISTED ON LABEL.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Most annual grasses,       simazine            2 qt                 2 lb
many broadleaf weeds.        PRINCEP 4-L                            Also
                                                                    available
                                                                    as
                                                                    wettable
                                                                    powder or
                                                                    granules
 
REMARKS:  Apply in 20-40 gal water/ac.  Apply only to species listed on label.
 
DO NOT USE IN CONTAINERS
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Many winter annual         pronamide           2-4 lb               1-2 lb
and perennial                KERB 50W
weeds.
 
REMARKS:  Apply in 20-40 gal water/ac.  Suggested for fall weed control.  
Apply only to plants 1 yr old or older.  Apply only to species listed on 
label.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Many annual grasses        oxadiazon           100-200 lb           2-4 lb
and broadleaf                RONSTAR 2G
weeds.
 
REMARKS:  Do not mix into soil.  Remove existing weed growth.  Apply anytime 
before weed seed germination.  Do not apply to wet foliage or where granules 
will collect on foliage.  Irrigation following application will improve weed 
control.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses and         diphenamid          4.4-6.6 lb           4-6 lb
some broadleaf               ENIDE 90WP
weeds.
 
REMARKS:  Apply in 20-40 gal water/ac.  APPLY ONLY TO SPECIES LISTED ON LABEL.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses and         dichlobenil         100-200 lb           4-8 lb
many broadleaf               CASORON 4G
weeds.  Particularly
wild chrysanthemum,
Florida betony
(Chinese artichoke)
and alligator weed.
 
REMARKS:  APPLY ONLY TO SPECIES LISTED ON LABEL.  On transplanted stock, do 
not apply until 4 wk after transplanting.  Do not use in containers. 
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses,            metolachlor         2-3 pt               2-3 lb 
yellow nutsedge,             DUAL 8E 
and some broad-              PENNANT 5G        40-80 lb             2-4 lb 
leaf species. 
 
REMARKS:  Apply in minimum of 15 gal water/ac.  Use DUAL 8E as a directed 
spray to base of established ornamentals or ornamentals transplanted a minimum 
of 10 days.  APPLY ONLY TO SPECIES LISTED ON LABEL.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses and         oryzalin            2-4 qt               2-4 lb 
some broadleaf               SURFLAN 4AS           
weeds.
 
REMARKS:  Apply to soil surface clear of clods in 20-40 gal of water.  Higher 
rate give 6-8 mo weed control.  USE ONLY ON SPECIES LISTED ON LABEL.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses and         napropamide         50WP 8-12            4-6 lb
broadleaf weeds.             DEVRINOL 50WP     l lb
                             2G                400-600 lb           8-12 lb
 
REMARKS:  Apply to clean soil.  Requires 1-2 in of irrigation or rainfall soon 
after application.  Incorporating 1-2 in will improve weed control.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Many annual grasses        oxyfluorfen         100 lb               2 lb
and many annual                 +                                     +
broadleaf weeds.           pendimethalin                            1 lb
                             ORNAMENTAL
                             HERBICIDE 2
 
REMARKS:  Apply  to clean soil before weeds emerge.  Best results obtained 
with 1/8-1/4 in water immediately after application.  Use only on species 
listed on label.  Do not apply in enclosed structures such as greenhouses or 
overwintering structures.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses and         oryzalin            100 lb               3 lb
broadleaf weeds.               +
                           oxyfluorfen
                             ROUT     
 
REMARKS:  Apply evenly to dry foliage to weed-free media when plants are not 
breaking dormancy or making a flush of growth.  DO NOT APPLY IN ENCLOSED 
STRUCTURES, SUCH AS GREENHOUSES OR OVERWINTERING STRUCTURES.  Use only on 
species listed on label. 
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual winter grasses      chloropropham       20-80 lb             2-8 lb
and broadleaf weeds;         FURLOE 10G
also dodder, chick-          
weed after emergence. 
 
REMARKS:  Apply to clean soil.  More effective when soil temperature 50 
degrees F or lower.  Apply when nursery stock in dormant stage.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POSTEMERGENCE TO WEEDS IN ESTABLISHED STOCK                  
-DOC-
                  POSTEMERGENCE TO WEEDS IN ESTABLISHED STOCK
                     John Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac /
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual broadleaf           R Gramoxone super   2.7 qt               l lb
weeds and grasses.           (paraquat)
 
REMARKS:  Apply as directed spray to keep chemical off nursery foliage.  A 
surfactant will increase effectiveness.  Certain deciduous plants are 
sensitive and damage can result if applied to plants containing green pigment 
in the stem.  Will top kill foliage on perennial weeds and grasses.  Apply in 
100 gal water/ac.  
 
DO NOT USE IN CONTAINERS.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac /
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual and                 sethoxydim          1.5-3 pt             0.28-0.47
perennial grasses            POAST
Does not control             1.53 lb/gal
sedges or broadleaf          EC
weeds.
 
REMARKS:  Apply to actively growing grasses when in recommended stage of 
growth given in rate table.  Do not make applications to grass under stress.  
Use minimum of 20 gal water/ac at 40 psi.  Increase to 40 gal at 60 psi to 
ensure grass coverage.  Always add nonphytotoxic oil concentrate to spray 
solution at 2 pt/ac for ground applications.  It is impossible to test every 
ornamental species.  Plant tolerance to Poast has been found acceptable for 
plants listed on label.  Tolerance to other species has not been determined.  
For additonal application directions, follow label.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac /
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Same as Poast              fluazifop           .75-1.5 pt           0.09-0.19
                             FUSILADE 2000
 
REMARKS:  Thorough spray coverage is required.  Apply as a directed spray to 
prevent contact with plant foliage.  Do not tank mix with other herbicides.  
Add 1 qt crop oil concentrate or 1/2 pt nonionic surfactant/25 gal water.  Use 
25 gal dilute spray/ac treated with 30-60 psi pressure.  Follow label for 
tolerant plant species.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac /
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Many annual and            glyphosate          1-5 qt               1-5 lb
perennial weeds.             ROUNDUP
                             4L
 
REMARKS:  Apply with a directed or shielded sprayer to plant species listed on 
label.  Follow application instructions listed on label.
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               FORMULATION/ac /
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE           BROADCAST            RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Florida betony             dichlobenil         100-150 lb           4-6 lb
(Chinese arti-               CASORON 4G
choke), wild
chrysanthemum, and
some other broadleaf
weeds.
 
REMARKS:  Best results have been obtained from late fall applications.  Apply 
only to species listed on label.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
R - Some or all uses of this product are restricted.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREEMERGENCE TO WEEDS IN ESTABLISHED PLANTINGS                
-DOC-
                PREEMERGENCE TO WEEDS IN ESTABLISHED PLANTINGS
                    (Annuals, Perennials, and Groundcovers)
                     John Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell Research Horticulturist     
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                             FORMULATION/ac
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE         BROADCAST           RATE ai/ac
_____________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses and         oryzalin          2-4 qt              2-4 lb
broadleaf weeds;             SURFLAN 4AS       
barnyardgrass, crab-         
grass, seedling 
johnsongrass, fall
panicum, wild oaks,
chickweed, purslane,
carpetweed, lambs-
quarters, pigweed,
foxtail, and 
goosegrass.
REMARKS:  Iceplant, gardenia, trailing African daisy, Easter cactus, gazania, 
bird of paradise, dwarf periwinkle, and yucca.  Apply as a spray to 
established plantings before weeds emerge.  Do not use on soils containing 
more than 3% organic matter.  Can be injurious to some species.  Follow label 
carefully.
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                             FORMULATION/ac
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE         BROADCAST           RATE ai/ac
_____________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses and         trifluralin                           0.5-1 lb
broadleaf weeds;             TREFLAN EC      1-2 pt              (soil in-
annual bluegrass,            TREFLAN 5G      80 lb               corporated)
barnyardgrass,                               (2 lb/      
crabgrass, foxtail                           1,100 sq ft)        4 lb 
goosegrass, seedling                                             (surface
johnsongrass                                                     applied)
shattercane,
stinkgrass, cheat,
carpetweed, chick-
weed, carelessweed,
lambsquarters,
Russian thistle,
purslane, and knot-
weed.
REMARKS:  Ageratum, aster, balsam, California poppy, rose, carnation, 
chrysanthemum, dahlia, dianthus, gladiolus, periwinkle, petunia, phlox, 
portulaca, salvia, snapdragon, stock, sunflower, sweet pea, and zinnia are 
labeled.  Apply as spray or granules before weeds germinate.  Not effective on 
established weeds.  Must be incorporated into soil within 4 hr.  Granular and 
liquid forms available. 
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                             FORMULATION/ac
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE         BROADCAST           RATE ai/ac
_____________________________________________________________________________
Annual broadleaf weeds     bensulide         107-143 lb          8.25-12.5
and grasses; annual          BETASAN         (2.4-3.2 lb/        lb
bluegrass, barnyard-         7G              1,000 sq ft)
grass, smooth and 
hairy crabgrass,
henbit, fall
panicum, foxtail,
goosegrass, lambs-
quarters, redroot
pigweed, shepherds purse,
and others.
 
REMARKS:  Alyssum, aster, candytuft, daffodil, dahlia, daisy, iceplant, 
marigold, pansy, gladiolus, narcissus, pachysandra, sedum, stock, tulip, and 
zinnia.  Weeds must be removed before application.  Use on established crops 
only.
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                             FORMULATION/ac
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE         BROADCAST           RATE ai/ac
_____________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses and         DCPA              160-180 lb          8-10 lb
broadleaf weeds;             DACTHAL         3.7 lb-    
crabgrass, annual            G-5             4.1 lb    
bluegrass, creeping,                         1,000 sq ft)
speedwell, foxtail,
lovegrass, witch-
grass, carpetweed,
common chickweed,
lambsquarters,
purslane, dodder,
and others.  For
dodder control
210 lb/ac (4 lb
13 oz) may be needed.
REMARKS:  Alyssum, aster, azalea, chrysanthemum, coleus, dahlia, foxglove, 
rose, geranium, iris, lily, marguerite, pachysandra, peony, petunia, salvia,
snapdragon, violet, zinnia, and gladiolus.  Apply as spray and granules 
immediately after planting before weeds emerge.  Do not use on carnation, 
pansy, phlox, sweet william and others.  Will not control groundsel.  Granular 
and wettable powder form available.
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                             FORMULATION/ac
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE         BROADCAST           RATE ai/ac
_____________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses and         diphenamid        4.4-6.7 lb          4-6 lb
broadleaf weeds;             ENIDE
annual bluegrass,            90WP
large crabgrass,
yellow and giant
foxtail, goosegrass,
barnyardgrass, witchgrass, 
fall panicum, ryegrass,
cheat, seedling johnson-
grass, pigweed, spiny
amaranth, lambsquarters, 
smartweed, purslane,
common chickweed,
carpetweed, knotweed,
red sorrel, pepper-
weed, and shepherds
purse.
REMARKS:  Aster, chrysanthemum, dahlia, geranium, marigold, petunia, phlox, 
salvia, shasta daisy, snapdragon, stocks, sweet william, and zinnia.  Apply up 
to 10 lb/ac on dichondra.  Lower application rates should be used in lighter 
soils.  After applying, use overhead irrigation.
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                             FORMULATION/ac
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE         BROADCAST           RATE ai/ac
_____________________________________________________________________________
Annual grasses,            EPTC              100 lb              5 lb
broadleaf weeds,             EPTAM           (2.3 lb/1,000 sq
and some perennial           GENEP           ft)
weeds; annual rye-           5G
grass, barnyard-
grass, bermudagrass,
purple and yellow
nutsedge, quack-
grass, wild oats,
foxtail, mugwort,
morning glory,
black nightshade,
sicklepod, purslane,
lambsquarters, and 
shepherds purse.
Use high rate for
mugwort.
REMARKS:  Ageratum, alyssum, aster, balsam, begonia, chrysanthemum, dahila, 
daylily, dianthus, marigold, nasturtium, pansy, petunia, and zinnia.  Apply to 
dry soil and incorporate immediately.  Mix EPTC to depth of 2 to 3 in.  For 
deep-rooted weeds, mix to 6 in depth.  Apply 2 wk after transplanting or after 
growth starts and before weeds emerge.  Granular or liquid formulation 
available.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POSTEMERGENCE TO WEEDS IN ESTABLISHED PLANTING                
-DOC-
                POSTEMERGENCE TO WEEDS IN ESTABLISHED PLANTING
                    (Annuals, Perennials, and Groundcovers)
                     John Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
                     Ted Whitwell, Research Horticulturist
______________________________________________________________________________
                                             FORMULATION/ac/
WEEDS CONTROLLED           PESTICIDE         BROADCAST           RATE ai/ac
______________________________________________________________________________
Annual and perennial       sethoxydin        1 1/2-3 pt          0.28-0.47 lb
grasses.  Does not           POAST
control nutsedge.
 
REMARKS:  Begonia, chrysanthemum, coleus, gladious, impatiens, iris, marigold, 
periwinkle, petunia, snapdragon, zinnia, and groundcovers of ivy and 
pachysandra.  Apply when grass is small.  Use a crop oil concentrate at rate 
of 2 pt/ac.  Slight leaf speckling has been observed on a few species with no 
reduction in vigor or growth.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGROMEDICINE PROGRAM                             
-DOC-
                             AGROMEDICINE PROGRAM
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
The Agromedicine Program is a collaborative association between the College of
Agricultural Sciences of Clemson University and the College of Medicine of the
Medical University of South Carolina.  The purpose of the program is to provide
to South Carolina the unified skills of agricultural and medical sciences to
promote more efficient, safer and healthier techniques in agriculture while
protecting human and natural resources.  The Agromedicine Program applies the
principles of occupational and preventive medicine in its role as a resource to
Clemson University, the Cooperative Extension Service and to the citizens of
South Carolina.
 
Activities of the Agromedicine Program include public service, education and
research.  Free medical consultation and pesticide residue laboratory support
are available to our state's medical community for the diagnosis and management
of pesticide associated illness and other medical conditions unique to the
agricultural environment.  Lectures and educational programs are provided to
students, health care professionals, agricultural professionals, grower
associations and community organizations for the purpose of promoting wellness
in agricultural workers and their families and in those who work in associated
industries.  Research is ongoing to expand the knowledge of agricultural
medicine.  Research findings are used to update educational activities.
 
The offices and laboratory of the Agromedicine Program are located in
Charleston at the Medical University of South Carolina in Suite 304 of the
Summerall Center (19 Hagood Avenue).  Dr. Stanley H. Schuman is the Medical
Director and may be reached at 792-2281.  Address correspondence to the
Agromedicine Program, MUSC, 171 Ashley Avenue, Charleston, S.C. 29425.  The
coordinator for Clemson University is Dr. Jere A. Brittain, 266 P&AS Building,
Clemson University, Clemson, S.C. 29634 (telephone: 656-3403).
 
 
 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MEDICAL CONSULTATION                             
-DOC-
                             MEDICAL CONSULTATION
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
1. The Agromedicine Program staff provides free medical consultation to the
state's health care professionals in the diagnosis and management of pesticide
associated illnesses and for other medical issues unique to the agricultural
setting.
 
2. Reference materials and medical literature can be provided to the caller
along with the services of the pesticide residue laboratory.
 
3. If it is determined that another organization or government agency can
provide further assistance due to the particular nature of the inquiry, the
caller will be networked with the appropriate official.
 
4. Two program physicians and faculty from the Department of Family Medicine
are available for consultation and may be reached at 792-2281.
 
                               Citizen Inquiry
 
1. Citizens may also contact the Agromedicine Program at 792-2281 for general
information, however the program staff cannot establish a physician/patient
relationship with the caller.
 
2. The program staff member will insist on consultation with the caller's
attending physician if a medical problem is suspected or alleged.
 
3. If the caller does not have a physician, arrangements will be made to refer
the caller to a physician in his community.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PESTICIDE RESIDUE LABORATORY                         
-DOC-
                         PESTICIDE RESIDUE LABORATORY
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
The Agromedicine Program Pesticide Residue Laboratory is experienced in the
analyses of human, animal and environmental samples for pesticide residues.
The laboratory provides its services at no charge to the state's medical
community who require assistance in the diagnosis of pesticide associated
illness.  A health professional may telephone 792-2281 to inquire about
available analytical procedures and to arrange laboratory services.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EDUCATIONAL ACTIVITIES                            
-DOC-
                            EDUCATIONAL ACTIVITIES
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
The Agromedicine Program staff provides lectures and educational activities to
students, professional associations, grower associations and community
organizations.  Topics range from pesticide safety and medical aspects of
pesticide associated illnesses to preventive medicine on such health concerns
as skin cancer, heat illnesses, noise induced hearing loss and health effects
of the red imported fire ant sting.  The Agromedicine Program works closely
with the Cooperative Extension Service in the presentation of these and other
topics.  Presentations are tailored to the needs of the audience and ample
time is always scheduled for questions and answers.  Telephone the
Agromedicine Program at 792-2281 for further information.
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BACKGROUND - PESTICIDE POISONING                       
-DOC-
                       BACKGROUND - PESTICIDE POISONING
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
Pesticides account for only a small percentage of the total illnesses and
deaths as a result of accidental and intentional poisoning.  In South Carolina
approximately 80 hospitalizations and 400 outpatient cases of pesticide
poisoning occur each year.(1)  Non-occupational cases account for almost 60%
of the total with most occurring in children.  Intentional pesticide
poisonings account for 16%.  The proportion of occupational pesticide
poisonings has declined in recent years from 37% to 25%.  This is thought to
reflect the effectiveness of educational programs for pesticide safety.
 
Investigation of pesticide poisoning incidents indicates they are a result of
misuse, disregard of safety precautions and lack of proper hygiene when mixing
and applying pesticides.  The total cases could be reduced by one-half by
keeping children away from pesticide containers, spray equipment and
pesticides which have been transferred to drinking containers.
 
(1) Schuman SH, Caldwell ST, Whitlock NH and Brittain JA: Etiology of
hospitalized pesticide poisoning in South Carolina, 1979-1982.  JSC Med Assoc
82:73-77, 1986.
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHAT TO DO IF PESTICIDE POISONING IS SUSPECTED                
-DOC-
                WHAT TO DO IF PESTICIDE POISONING IS SUSPECTED
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
1. Remove the clothing and wash the skin with soap and water if contaminated
with a pesticide.  Rinse eyes with water for fifteen minutes if a chemical was
splashed into the eyes.
 
2. Rinse out the mouth if a pesticide has been ingested.  Then give CPR if
indicated.
 
3. Immediately contact your physician or the Poison Control Center (1-800-922-
1117).
 
4. Transport the patient to the closest medical care facility.
 
5. Take the pesticide label or container with you to the medical care
facility.  The label contains specific recommendations for physicians.
Pesticide containers should not be placed in passenger areas of vehicles.
 
6. Don't forget that your Cooperative Extension Service office has copies of
labels for many of the pesticide products used in your area.
 
7. Free medical consultation and pesticide laboratory services are available
to health professionals through the Agromedicine Program(792-2281).  See the
Services and Resources section of the Agricultural Medicine Menu for details.
 
 
 
 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREVENTION - PESTICIDE POISONING                       
-DOC-
                       PREVENTION - PESTICIDE POISONING
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
1. Read and follow the safety and application directions found on the
pesticide label.
 
2. Pesticide containers should be kept in locked storage areas to prevent
access by children and animals.
 
3. Pesticides should never be transferred from their original containers to any
other container except for application.  Never put pesticides in beverage or
food containers.
 
4. When mixing or handling pesticides wear unlined neoprene or butyl-rubber
gloves.
 
5. Long-sleeve shirts and pants of tightly woven material should be worn
during mixing and application.  Wear protective equipment as recommended on
the label.
 
6. Hands should be washed frequently when using pesticides, especially prior
to eating, smoking or using the bathroom.
7. If a chemical is spilled on the exposed skin, bathe immediately using
plenty of soap and water.  If work clothing becomes contaminated, immediately
remove the clothing and bathe.
 
8. Work clothing contaminated with pesticides should be washed separately from
other laundry at least three times before being worn again.  Leather boots,
aprons or gloves cannot be effectively decontaminated and should be discarded.
 
9. If you use the more toxic pesticides, be sure your physician or emergency
room has copies of the pesticide labels.
 
10. Some symptoms of pesticide poisoning are the same as seen in viral
infections, heat stress, fatigue and other medical conditions.  If you become
ill during or after exposure to pesticides, don't diagnosis yourself.  See your
physician.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BACKGROUND - SKIN CANCER                           
-DOC-
                           BACKGROUND - SKIN CANCER
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
In the United States today there is a growing epidemic of skin cancer with
approximately 600,000 new cases diagnosed each year.(1)  Skin cancer is the
result of overexposure of the unprotected skin to the invisible, ultraviolet
(UV) rays of the sun.
 
In addition to being the primary cause of skin cancer, UV rays are also
responsible for sunburn and the premature aging of the skin characterized by
facial sags and wrinkles, liver spots and also precancerous growths called
actinic keratoses.
 
Skin cancer is directly related to the amount of yearly sunlight in an area
and is common in sportsmen, outdoor workers (farmers, ranchers, sailors, etc.)
and sunbathers.(2)  Those individuals who have light eyes, fair hair (blonds
and redheads) and fair complexion and those who sunburn easily are at greater
risk of developing skin cancer.(3)
The head, neck, forearms and hands are the most common sites of skin cancer.
More than 90% of all skin cancers occur at these locations.(4)  Modern styles
of dress permit direct sun exposure to these sites.  This factor along with
changing life styles which allow more leisure time for outdoor activities have
all contributed to the rise in cases of skin cancer.
 
(1) Dobson RL, (Department of Dermatology, Medical University of South
Carolina): There is no such thing as a healthy tan.  Letter to the editor.
The News and Courier, Charleston, S.C. Feb. 22, p. 14-A, 1987.
 
(2) Berkow R, Editor: The Merck Manual (14th ed.), 1982 Rahway, NJ.
 
(3) Cancer of the skin.  American Academy of Dermatology.  1567 Maple Avenue,
Evanston, Ill. 6-2-1 (1981).
 
(4) The sun and your skin.  American Academy of Dermatology.  1567 Maple
Avenue, Evanston, Ill. 60201 (1984).
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT - SKIN CANCER                     
-DOC-
                     SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT - SKIN CANCER
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
Basal cell carcinoma is the most common form of skin cancer.  It begins as a
small, shiny nodule on exposed areas of the skin, such as the hands, face and
neck.  If left untreated, there will be repeated episodes of bleeding and
crusting.
 
Squamous cell carcinoma is characterized by a red nodule or a patch of scaly
or crusted skin on the ears, face or lips.  It may also appear on areas of the
skin usually protected by clothing such as on the abdomen and legs.
 
Melanoma is a malignant tumor.  Fortunately it accounts for less than 4% of
all skin cancers.  Melanoma begins as a dark, mole-like growth with irregular
edges and pigmentation.  The dark growth may change shades to either red, blue
or white.  It appears most frequently on the upper back, torso of men and
lower legs of women.
When detected and treated early, basal cell and squamous cell carcinomas have
an excellent cure rate.  If left untreated, basal cell carcinoma may extend
below the skin to the bone and squamous cell carcinoma may spread to other
locations in the body.  Some forms of melanoma have a good prognosis if
detected early, however melanoma accounts for 75% of the deaths due to skin
cancer.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREVENTION - SKIN CANCER                           
-DOC-
                           PREVENTION - SKIN CANCER
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
1. Wear protective clothing consisting of long-sleeve shirts and trousers made
of tight knit fabric.
 
2. Wear protective hats to shield the head and neck from direct sun exposure.
Baseball caps only provide protection to the forehead.  Wide brim hats will
provide protection to most of the face as well as to the ears and the back of
the neck.
 
3. Use a sun screen product on unprotected skin.  Select a sun screen with a
skin protection factor (SPF) of at least 15 which is also water resistant to
avoid dilution from sweat.  Apply the sun screen at least 30 minutes prior to
exposure.
 
4. Limit exposure if possible.  The sun's rays are more intense between the
hours of 10:00 a.m. and 3:00 p.m.  If you have a previous history of skin
cancer, try to avoid direct exposure to the sun during these times.
 
5. Skin cancer can result from a combination of factors including UV light,
heredity, and exposure to solvents and petroleum distillates found in many
pesticides.  Protective clothing can reduce excess UV exposure and
pesticide/organic solvent exposure at the same time.
 
6. Skin cancer is a preventable disease which is affecting a growing number of
farmers, other outdoor workers and sunbathers.  Persons with fair hair and
skin should pay special attention to the risk of skin cancer and follow the
methods of prevention discussed above.  See your physician if you notice a new
growth, mole or discoloration or a sudden change in an existing mole.  Early
detection of cancer is the first step for a successful cure.
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BACKGROUND - HEAT RELATED ILLNESS                        
-DOC-
                       BACKGROUND - HEAT RELATED ILLNESS 
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director 
 
Heat illness is important because it can result in heart attack, stroke or  
death.  Its effects are very subtle and difficult to detect by the person who  
is experiencing the gradual stages of early heat illness.  The risk of heat  
related illnesses among those who are outdoors at work or play increases under  
conditions of high humidity and temperature.  At special risk are persons with  
diabetes, hypertension, heart disease, kidney disease or a previous history of  
heat illness.  Also at risk are the elderly.  It is widely recognized that  
people over age 65 have less reserves to handle extreme temperatures. 
 
Heat illness impairs the body's reflexes which reduces productivity and  
efficiency.  More importantly it hinders a person's ability to concentrate  
which raises the question of safety while operating equipment. How many  
injuries have occurred among farm workers who have worked excessively long  
hours under conditions of high heat and humidity? 
 
The human body is not well designed for extremes of heat.  The body's defense  
against excess heat is for the heart to pump blood from the overheated  
interior of the body to the surface of the skin where the excess heat is lost  
through convection, conduction and evaporation from perspiration. If these 
defenses fail to keep the body's temperature below 104 degrees F or 105  
degrees F, a life threatening condition arises as the body's temperature  
regulating mechanism fails. 
 
The summer months in South Carolina are characterized by extremes in  
temperature and humidity.  The interaction between high temperature and  
humidity creates ideal conditions for heat related illnesses. Lack of air  
movement can also aggravate heat illness, especially in persons with  
cardiorespiratory handicaps.  The following abridged table from the National  
Weather Service demonstrates how relative humidity and temperature interact.   
This is known as a comfort index or apparent temperature.  For example, on a  
day when the air temperature is 90 degrees F and the relative humidity is 70%,  
your body will respond to an apparent temperature of 106 degrees F. 
 
                          APPARENT TEMPERATURE CHART 
 
                               Relative Humidity 
        Air Temp 
        Degrees (F)     60%     70%     80%     90% 
 
        100             132     144      -        - 
 
         95             114     124     136      - 
 
         90             100     106     113     122 
 
         85              90      93      97     102 
 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT - HEAT ILLNESSES                    
-DOC-
                    SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT - HEAT ILLNESSES
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
                                  Heat Cramps
 
Cramping of the flexor muscles in the arms and legs or abdominal muscles is an
early sign of heat illness.  This is a helpful sign because it is so painful
the person usually stops his activity to massage the pained muscles.
 
Cramping is relieved through muscle massage, rest and replacement of lost body
fluids.
                               Heat Prostration
 
Also known as heat collapse, this condition is a result of a sudden drop in
blood pressure.  The skin will be clammy from perspiration and the person will
feel weak and may experience fainting.  The body temperature will be normal or
slightly elevated.  The symptoms are due to dehydration.
 
The victim should be moved to a cooler area or into air conditioning.  Loosen
or remove clothing and bathe in cool water.  If the victim is conscious, give
fluids such as a glass of water in which a half teaspoon of salt has been
dissolved.  If a rapid improvement is not observed, seek medical assistance.
                                  Heat Stroke
 
This condition also known as sun stroke is a medical emergency.  The body
temperature has reached 105 degrees and the skin is flushed and red.  All
sweating has usually stopped due to dehydration and the victim is often
unconscious.
 
The victim requires emergency treatment with rapid body cooling, fluids for
shock and CPR if breathing has stopped.  The victim should be transported to
the nearest medical care facility.  While awaiting transport, cool the body
with running water, wet cloths or ice packs.  Do not give fluids if the victim
is unconscious.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREVENTION - HEAT ILLNESS                           
-DOC-
                           PREVENTION - HEAT ILLNESS
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
1. Physical Conditioning - Over a two week period, gradually build up your
exposure to high temperature and humidity.  It takes two weeks for the body to
become conditioned.
 
2. Water - Drink a third more than your thirst.  Strong tea or coffee and
alcohol should be avoided.  It is recommended that the popular "thirst
quencher" drinks be mixed half and half with water.
 
3. Protective Clothing - Wear a wide brim hat and loose fitting long sleeve
shirt and pants to protect the body against solar energy.
 
4. Sun screens - Use a sun screen with a sun protection factor of at least 15
and apply 15-30 minutes prior to exposure.  Sunburn interferes with the
perspiration defense.
 
5. Nutrition - Eat well balanced meals for appropriate salt and mineral
intake.  Medical experts no longer recommend salt tablets because the tablets
irritate the stomach linings in most people.
6. Rest - Start the day well rested and take frequent breaks.
 
7. Plan Activities - If possible, plan your schedule to avoid the hottest part
of the day.  During periods of intense temperature and humidity try to plan
your outdoor work for early morning and late afternoon.
 
8. Recognize Early Symptoms - These include headache, weakness, nausea, slowed
reflexes, irritability, and loss of concentration.  Dark urine is a sign of
dehydration.  If these symptoms develop, you need to stop, rest and cool off.
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BACKGROUND - COLD INJURY                           
-DOC-
                           BACKGROUND - COLD INJURY
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
Although South Carolina enjoys relatively mild winters, cold snaps are not
uncommon and are characterized by sudden changes in humidity, temperature and
winds.  Farm chores do not stop in the winter as livestock must be tended and
facilities and machinery repaired.
 
The human body is not well adapted to cold stress.  In order to maintain a
normal body temperature one must rely upon the basal metabolic rate,
supplemented by energy produced by exercise (including reflex shivering).
This requires normal intake of calories, fluids, vitamins and essential
minerals.  Heat loss in winter works on the same principle as heat loss in the
summer: moisture in the form of perspiration conveys heat away from the body
to the external air.  A breeze in the summer cools us beneficially; the same
breeze on a winter day chills us by carrying away precious body warmth.
 
Some persons are more susceptible to cold injury than others, especially the
elderly with circulatory disorders, persons with diabetes, stroke, neurologic
handicap or edema problems (including varicose veins).  The very young are
also less resistant to cold.  Fatigue, hunger and fear are mentioned by
experts as risk factors under cold stress.
During cold spells, the interaction between the outdoor temperature and the
wind velocity creates wind chill.  The wind chill factor, as shown in the
following abridged table from the National Weather Service, is what your body
feels in response to exposure at a particular low temperature and wind speed
combination.  For example an outdoor temperature of 40 degrees F and a wind
speed of 10 MPH will feel as if it is 28 degrees F.
 
                                  WIND CHILL
 
        WIND             OUTDOOR TEMPERATURE - DEGREES (F)
        (MPH)            20             30              40
 
        10                3             16              28
 
        20              -10              4              19
 
        30              -18             -2              13
 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT - COLD INJURY                     
-DOC-
                     SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT - COLD INJURY
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
Tissue damage can include frost bite, trench foot and cold gangrene.  The most
severe form of cold injury is loss of consciousness with failure of the body
to maintain circulation or oxygenation of the tissues.  Emergency treatment of
unconsciousness from cold injury depends on accurate diagnosis to recognize a
possible coexisting disorder (stroke, heart attack, epilepsy, diabetic coma,
or alcoholic stupor) and to treat both conditions at the same time.
 
Local reactions to cold injury need to be treated vigorously with rewarming
rapidly with a warm bath not to exceed 43 degrees C or 100 degrees F.  This
means uncomfortably but bearably hot.  Numbness of the victim to warm
temperature bath can predispose to unnecessary burns.
 
Rubbing the skin will cause greater tissue damage.  Instead the skin should be
gently patted dry to avoid further damage to the layers of skin, which may
blister before healing.  These blisters should not be broken.
Warm fluids can warm the body from within.  What about spirits?  In the past
alcohol was considered to be harmful.  Recent research indicates alcohol does
not decrease core temperature as previously believed.  Its euphoric effect may
be beneficial in reducing fear.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREVENTION - COLD INJURY                           
-DOC-
                           PREVENTION - COLD INJURY
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
Heat loss and tissue damage can be avoided by:
 
1. Moisture control is probably the single best defense against cold injury.
Multilayered clothing preserves the vital layer of air insulation between the
skin and outside air.
 
2. Proper attention to hand, foot and head protection because the defense
mechanism of the body is to sacrifice circulation to the extremities in order
to preserve core body temperature.
 
3. Rest periods during heavy labor at freezing temperatures will allow the
heart and circulatory system and neurosensitive fingers to recover from cold
stress.
 
4. Proper nutrition including adequate calories, vitamins, minerals and fluids
are vital to maintain the metabolic processes.
 
5. Alertness to avoid mistakes in judgment.  One of the drawbacks of alcohol-
in-excess is impaired judgment.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BACKGROUND - NOISE INDUCED LOSS OF HEARING                  
-DOC-
                  BACKGROUND - NOISE INDUCED LOSS OF HEARING
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
Has a doctor said you have hearing loss or do you think you are losing your
hearing?  Do you operate tractors, forage harvesters, conveyors, chain saws,
milking machines and other noisy equipment for long hours without using
personal hearing protectors?  Has a friend or family member said you only hear
those things you want to hear?  If the answer is yes to any of these
questions, you may have already experienced noise-induced loss of hearing
(NILH).  We all experience a decline in our ability to hear as we age.
Prolonged exposure to loud noise causes some of us to lose our hearing sooner.
There is no medical treatment for NILH as with other hearing disorders.
 
Research has shown that agricultural noise has caused hearing problems.  The
recognition of agricultural noise is not new.  The Tractor Test Lab of the
University of Nebraska-Lincoln has been studying tractor noise since 1970.
More recently, Canadian dairy farmers are reported to have considerable
hearing loss.(1)  In a population of Wisconsin farmers, both male and female,
a greater percentage of hearing loss is observed than in non-farm populations,
especially among the young.(2)
The following table lists typical decibel levels (standardized measure of
sound intensity) of common sounds and equipment.  The decibel level is
dependent upon such factors as age, state of repair, design and the amount of
stress or load the equipment is under.
 
        Sound                           Decibel Level
 
        Whisper                                  20
        Normal speech                            60
        Busy office                              80
        Sound insulated tractor cab              85
        Air compressor                           90
        Lawn mower                               98
        Tractor without cab                     100
        Chain saw/circular saw                  110
        Diesel engine                           125
        Siren                                   140
        Rifle blast                             150
        Jet engine                              160
 
Continuous exposure to levels above 90 decibels causes permanent hearing loss.
Exposure to occupational noise at levels of 80 decibels and below has not been
found to increase the risk of hearing loss.(3)

(1)Pffeiffer, S. et al. Aspects of physician fitness and health in Ontario
dairy farmers.  Canadian J of Public Health 75:204-211, 1984.
 
(2) Hansen, Donald, Audiologist with the Department of Otolaryngology,
Marshfield Clinic, Marshfield, Wisconsin.  Personal communication April 28,
1986.
 
(3) National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health.  Leading work-
related diseases and injuries in United States.  JAMA 255:2133, 1986.
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SYMPTOMS - NOISE INDUCED HEARING LOSS                     
-DOC-
                     SYMPTOMS - NOISE INDUCED HEARING LOSS
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
1. Difficulty in hearing normal conversation in crowded and noisy rooms.
 
2. Ringing in the ears (tinnitus) which always accompanies mild to severe
noise induced hearing-loss.
 
3. Speech or other sounds appear muffled.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREVENTION - NOISE INDUCED HEARING LOSS                    
-DOC-
                    PREVENTION - NOISE INDUCED HEARING LOSS
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
1. Wear personal hearing protectors (ear plugs or muffs) when working around
noisy equipment for prolonged periods.  Make sure they are fitted properly.
Personal hearing protectors only reduce the amount of noise which reaches the
ears, they do not block out all noise.  Noise is reduced by 10 to 30 decibels
depending upon the type of protector (plug, canal cap, muff) and construction.
Earplugs have advantages such as low cost, easily carried, comfortable in hot
environments and do not restrict head movement.  Muffs generally offer better
protection than ear plugs and may be worn with minor ear infections when ear
plugs should not be used.
 
2. Keep the exhaust system of all engines in good repair.  Do not remove
mufflers, except to replace those in disrepair.
 
3. Keep all machinery properly lubricated.
 
4. Try to reduce the amount of time you are exposed to high noise sources,
especially if you don't wear ear protectors.  Frequent breaks allow the ear
drums to recover from some of the noise stress.
5. Avoid recreational noise stress from loud music and from unprotected
firearm exposure, garden equipment and power tools such as saws, polishers and
grinders.
 
6. Music from most head-sets is not protective against machinery noise.  It is
distracting and only adds to the total noise level.
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BACKGROUND - RED IMPORTED FIRE ANT STINGS                   
-DOC-
                   BACKGROUND - RED IMPORTED FIRE ANT STINGS
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
In South Carolina red imported fire ants (RIFA) were first identified in 1952
spreading to 27 counties by 1973.  Now full-or spot-infestations have been
identified in all 46 counties including urban, rural, and suburban settings.
While not regarded as an economic threat to any major crop, RIFA can damage
pets and livestock and damage farm machinery.  RIFA can invade households,
buildings and roof materials.
 
The human health effects of RIFA are determined by three factors: (a) the
aggressive behavior of RIFA whenever their mound or tunnels are disturbed; (b)
the ability of a single RIFA to inflict multiple wounds with its permanent
stinger inserting venom at each sting; and (c) the unique biochemical
properties of RIFA venom which are different from those of all other stinging 
insects such as wasps, bees, hornets, etc.
A survey(1) of 1,996 primary care physicians in South Carolina estimated
500,000 persons were stung in our state in 1986.  The estimated cost of
medical care for fire ant stings and complications including systemic allergic
reaction totaled 1.8 million dollars for emergency room visits,
hospitalizations, medications and professional fees.  Although no deaths from
RIFA stings were reported in the survey, thirteen near-death cases were
documented.  Deaths due to RIFA stings have been reported in other states.
 
(1) Schuman SH, Banov CH, Caldwell ST, Horton PM and Kissam JB: Impact of fire
ant sting morbidity in South Carolina.  JSC Med Assoc 83:249-252, 1987.
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT - RIFA STINGS                      
-DOC-
                      SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT - RIFA STINGS
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
1. LOCALIZED IRRITATION (80% of victims) is a non-allergenic response to the
fire ant sting.  A small blister-like vesicle forms at the site of each sting
within four hours.  A sterile pustule forms in 8-24 hours.  The pustules
rupture and scar in 3 to 10 days.  Secondary infection may occur if the
pustule is scratched or broken.  Diabetics and others with circulatory
disorders, including varicose veins and phlebitis, are at special risk for
complications.
 
2. EXAGGERATED LOCAL RESPONSE (15% of victims) is characterized by swelling at
the site of the fire ant sting.  It can be caused by a single sting.  Swelling
may last for several days and may be accompanied by itching, redness and pain.
Since the swelling is due to allergy (not infection) antibiotics are
unnecessary.
 
3. GENERALIZED SYSTEMIC REACTION (1-2% of victims) is a life threatening
allergic reaction (anaphylactic shock).  It may occur the first or second time
a person is stung.  Swelling of the throat, face or eyes, hives,
unconsciousness and difficulty in breathing are symptoms.  This reaction can
occur with a single sting.  Emergency adrenalin is required by injection.
 
                                   TREATMENT
 
LOCAL IRRITATION AND EXAGGERATED RESPONSE:
 
1. Ice or cold compresses will reduce swelling and the burning and pain of the
sting.
 
2. Clean the vesicles with soap and water to prevent secondary infection.  Do
not break the pustule.
 
3. If infection is suspected, seek medical attention.
 
GENERALIZED SYSTEMIC REACTION:
 
1. This is a medical emergency requiring life support!
 
2. Anyone who develops hives or swelling away from the site of the sting is at
risk and should report immediately to a physician.
 
3. Those at risk should receive epinephrine syringe kits from their doctors
(Ana-kit/Epi-Pen) and begin a complete course of desensitization which is
highly effective in preventing generalized systemic reactions.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREVENTION - RIFA STINGS                           
-DOC-
                           PREVENTION - RIFA STINGS
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
Prevention of RIFA stings can only be accomplished through avoidance and
control of RIFA mounds.  We all are at risk of RIFA stings and those who have
existing medical conditions which may cause complications and those who have
had generalized systemic reactions must take special care when outdoors.
 
Eradication of the fire ant is not feasible with present technology.
Containment of fire ant mounds is possible through individual mound and
broadcast treatments.  Contact your local county Cooperative Extension Service
office for specific insecticide and other control recommendations.
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NEUROTOXICITY AND CARBARYL EXPOSURE                      
-DOC-
                      NEUROTOXICITY AND CARBARYL EXPOSURE
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
"Is Carbaryl as Safe as its Reputation?" is the title of an article which
appeared in the April 1986 issue of the AMERICAN JOURNAL of MEDICINE (vol 80,
p. 659-664).  The authors of this article, R.A. Branch and E. Jacqz, presented
an abbreviated case history of a 75 year old man who developed a progressive
neurologic syndrome following long term exposure to carbaryl, a carbamate
insecticide in wide use.  The patient's symptoms included headaches, memory
loss, muscle weakness and cramps and weight loss.  Following an extensive
review of human and animal carbaryl toxicology, the authors state that
"despite 27 years of widespread use of carbaryl, this syndrome of carbaryl
exposure has not been previously described."
In response to this article, a letter to the editor from the Agromedicine
Program was published in the December 1986 issue of the journal (vol. 81, p.
1124-1125).  The letter criticized the article by Branch and Jacqz for the
following reasons: 1. the case presentation was inadequate to draw a valid
inference about carbaryl exposure and the neurologic syndrome, 2. the journal
should not have published an article which consisted of a single abbreviated
case history and extensive literature review, and 3. only rigorous case-
control studies can demonstrate the long term cause-and-effect relationship
proposed in the original article.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NON-HODGKIN'S LYMPHOMA AND 2,4-D EXPOSURE                   
-DOC-
                   NON-HODGKIN'S LYMPHOMA AND 2,4-D EXPOSURE
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
On September 5, 1986 the JOURNAL of the AMERICAN MEDICAL ASSOCIATION (vol.
256, p. 1141-1147) published the findings of a study by S.K. Hoar et. al.
titled "Agricultural Herbicide Use and Risk of Lymphoma and Soft-Tissue
Carcinoma".  The authors described an association between non-Hodgkin's
lymphoma and frequent, unprotected exposure to 2,4-D (a phenoxy herbicide)
among Kansas farmers.  This report gained national attention and calls for
government study and the ban of this herbicide.
 
A flaw in the Hoar study is that the investigators had to rely on interviews
with surviving family members for pesticide usage and protective clothing
history.  Interviews with family members who must use recall for work
practices 20 years ago is a major weakness in any epidemiologic study.  On the
positive side this study suggests the benefits derived from protective
clothing and safety practices when exposed to pesticides.  Hoar reported that
those Kansas farmers, who had repeated 2,4-D exposure over a number of years
and who wore protective clothing and followed safety practices, were at no
greater risk of developing the lymphoma than those who were not exposed to
2,4-D.
The Hoar study was rejected on March 23, 1987 by the Canadian Centre for
Toxicology in their "Expert Panel Report on Carcinogenicity of 2,4-D."  This
resulted in the removal of the moratorium on use of 2,4-D products in Ontario
on April 16, 1987.
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DELAYED NEUROTOXICITY AND ORGANOPHOSPHATE POISONING              
-DOC-
              DELAYED NEUROTOXICITY AND ORGANOPHOSPHATE POISONING
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
The March 26, 1987 issue of THE NEW ENGLAND JOURNAL of MEDICINE (vol. 316, p.
761-763) published a report by Drs. Senanayake and Karalliedde from Sri Lanka.
Their article "Neurotoxic Effects of Organophosphorus Insecticides: An
Intermediate Syndrome" reports that 10 out of 95 patients they treated for
organophosphate poisoning developed a previously unrecognized syndrome.  This
syndrome is characterized by weakness in the respiratory muscles which develop
after the normal course of organophosphate toxicity.
 
A letter to the editor from the Agromedicine Program criticized the report
because nine of the ten patients were suicide attempts and the authors do not
discuss what other substances the patients may have ingested or even if this
information was sought.  Also only four of the ten patients received treatment
within two hours of poisoning.
 
The Director of the Emergency Department of Beaufort Memorial Hospital also
criticized the Sri Lanka study in a letter to the editor.  He cited the lack
of early and aggressive oxime (2-PAM) therapy for the cases as the most likely
reason for the neurologic symptoms.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Agricultural Life-Style: Less Cancer, More Strokes               
-DOC-
               Agricultural Life-Style: Less Cancer, More Strokes
                     Stanley H. Schuman, Medical Director
 
A statistical study of the causes of death of South Carolina farmers 
compared with non-farmers who died in 1983-1984 has yielded clues to the 
question: "How healthy is the agricultural life-style?"(1)  A total of 2,820 
agricultural workers aged 35 to 84 years were identified in the study (1,415 
whites and 1,405 blacks).  Forty two major causes of death were observed.  
Statistical tests of white farmers and non-farmers and black farmers and 
non-farmers yielded several differences among the four groups.
 
The "good" news is that for both white and black farmers, the agricultural 
life-style results in fewer deaths from cancers involving the lung, 
gastrointestinal tract and the lymphatic/blood system.  Diseases associated 
with heavy smoking and drinking were notably down among farmers as a group.  
The "bad" news is that two important causes of death were excessive among 
farmers.  These included deaths due to cerebral vascular accidents (stroke) 
and deaths due to external causes (motor vehicle, falls, fires and drowning).
The study definitely underscores the importance of safety programs and 
accident prevention on the farm.  It also points clearly to the need of 
stroke prevention.   Strokes are the inevitable result of failure of doctors 
and patients to diagnose and treat hypertension in its early controllable 
stages and to maintain therapy once high blood pressure is diagnosed.  No one 
should let their hypertension medications run out because they "feel O.K." 
No one should fail to have their blood pressure checked on a regular schedule 
as prescribed by their physician.  Also no one should fail to follow other 
prescribed therapy such as diet modification, exercise, salt reduction and 
smoking cessation.  Stress alone has not been shown to cause hypertension.
 
Farmers in South Carolina are dying more frequently from strokes than 
non-farmers.  This can be corrected through greater diligence of the rural 
medical community and other interested organizations.  Support and 
encouragement from friends and family members can play an important role in 
modifying harmful behavior patterns.  The individual with hypertension must 
take the first step.  He must recognize that his health is the most important 
asset on the farm.
 
(1) Une H, Schuman SH, Caldwell ST and Whitlock NH: Agricultural life-style: A 
mortality study among male farmers in South Carolina, 1983-1984.  South Med J 
80:1137-1140, 1987.  Cooperating in the study at DHEC's Office of Vital 
Records were M.L. Mace, L.H. Jacobs, J.E. Ferguson, and M.B. Hudson.
 
     
           
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ABBEVILLE COUNTY                                                       
-DOC-
 
                             ABBEVILLE COUNTY                          
 
   COMPANY NAME                      CITY                  MAJOR PRODUCT
 
Abbeville Mfg Co Inc               Abbeville       Mens jeans
Abbeville Shirtmakers Inc          Abbeville       Men's sport & dress shirts
Banner Corp                        Abbeville       Newspaper
Baxter, J C Co                     Donalds         Paper tubes & cores
Bigelow-Sanford Rocky River Plt    Calhoun Falls   Nylon carpet yarn
Bloomsburg Mills Inc               Abbeville       Spun yarn
Calhoun Falls News                 Calhoun Falls   Newspapers
Due West Oil Mill                  Due West        Ice
Flexible Technologies              Abbeville       Plastic vacuum tubing &
                                                     fittings
Huggins Garment Co                 Donalds         Ladies blouses
Hydra Industries Inc               Abbeville       Concrete forms from
                                                     synthetic
Machine Master Tool & Fabrication  Abbeville       Mach shop & indust fabrics
Milliken & Co-Abbeville Mill       Abbeville       Synthetic fabric
Milliken & Co-Sharon Plant         Abbeville       Automotive fabric
Modernage Heating & Cooling        Abbeville       Sheet metal        
   COMPANY NAME                      CITY                  MAJOR PRODUCT
 
Pirelli Cable Corporation          Abbeville       Electrical wire & cable
Plexco-Div Amsted Ind Inc          Abbeville       Plastic pipe
Precision Plus Inc                 Greenwood       Machining
Reelco Of Abbeville Inc            Abbeville       Cable reels & wood prod
Sportswear Unlimited               Iva             Ladies blouses
Stevens, J P & Co Inc              Calhoun Falls   Sheeting
Stevens-Abbeville Plant            Abbeville       Yarn
 
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LEXINGTON COUNTY                                                      
-DOC-
                              LEXINGTON COUNTY                        
 
   COMPANY NAME                      CITY                 MAJOR PRODUCT
 
Abrasive Finishing Systems          Irmo             Shot blast equip
Allied Fibers                       Irmo             Staple nylon
American Tool & Die Inc             Swansea          Progressive form draw
Amick Corporation                   Lexington        Metal stampings
AT&T Nassau Metals Corp             Gaston           Processing of scrap metal
Atlantic Soft Drink Co              West Columbia    Soft drinks
Automated Industrial Electronics Co Batesburg        Mobile comm- test eq
B B C Brown Boveri Inc              Florence         Circuit breakers
B F G Industries Inc                West Columbia    Foundry
Ballington Lumber & Pallet Co       West Columbia    Pallets
Bradshaw Mfg Co Inc                 West Columbia    Loom reeds
Bruner Press Inc, The               Batesburg        Newspapers
Bruner Publishing Co                Lexington        Newspapers
Burlington Industries-Batesburg Plt Batesburg        Woven mattress ticking
C M Custom Machines Inc             Lexington        Machine
C T A Inc- Custom Plastics          Swansea          M-16 cleaning rods
   COMPANY NAME                       CITY                  MAJOR PRODUCT
 
Capitol City Manufacturing Co Inc  West Columbia    Dresses
Carolina Dielectrics Inc           Lexington        Fiberglass boats
Carolina Rebuild Inc               Lexington        Machine tool rebuilding
Carolina Steel & Wire Corporation  Lexington        Wire rope & cable
Caughman Meat Plant Inc            Lexington        Meats
Cayce Foundry Inc                  West Columbia    Gray iron castings
Citation Boats Inc                 Chapin           Boats
Colite Industries Inc              West Columbia    Signs-interior & exterior
Columbia Engineering Inc           Lexington        Fab textile equipment
Columbia Farms Inc                 Leesville        Poultry processing
Columbia Wilbert Vault Co          West Columbia    Mortician goods
Cooper Air Tools Division          Lexington        Air powered assembly tools
Corley Brothers Lumber Co Inc      Lexington        Light & med-hvy timber pl
Corley, M L & Sons Sawmill Inc     Lexington        Timbers
Decotone U S Inc                   Lexington        Printed paper
Dixiana Steel Co                   West Columbia    Fabricated steel
  COMPANY NAME                       CITY                  MAJOR PRODUCT
 
Dixie Fabs Inc                     West Columbia   Steel stairs
E S Copeland Mfg Inc               Batesburg       Metal display racks
Eagle Material Handling Systems    Irmo            Custom metal fabrication
Ebert Sportwear Inc                Columbia        T-shirts
Fairchild Cutter Service           Lexington       Mfg spcl metal cut'g tool
Fastener House (The)               West Columbia   Bolts rods studs spcl fastn
Four Oaks Farm Inc                 Lexington       Meat processing
George Assoc/George Disposable     West Columbia   Disposable adult diapers
Glasco Industries Inc              West Columbia   Cleaning chemicals
Glassmaster Company                Lexington       Monofilament products
Guignard Brick Works               Lexington       Clay and shale brick
Harland, John H Co                 West Columbia   Bank checks
Harris Corp R F Comm Div Lecom Ops Leesville       Two way radio equipment
Hartwell Industries                Leesville       Narrow fabrics
Helms, Jack A Co Inc               Irmo            Sailboats
Hoover Trusses                     Lexington       Wooden trusses
   COMPANY NAME                       CITY                  MAJOR PRODUCT
 
Industrial Systems Corp             Columbia        Ind/auto parts & equip
Inland Container Corp               Lexington       Corrugated paper container
Journal, The                        Lexington       Newspapers
Kline Iron & Steel Co Inc           Irmo            Fabricated steel products
Lexco Sales & Engineering Co Inc    West Columbia   Misc steel materials
Lexington Printing                  West Columbia   Commercial printing
Lithoprint Inc                      West Columbia   Commercial printing
Loxcreen Co Inc                     West Columbia   Aluminum extrusions
Martin Marietta Aggregates-Constr D West Columbia   Crushed granite
Martin, J B & Co                    Leesville       Velvet
Michelin Tire Corp-Manufacturing Di Lexington       Automobile tires
Mid State Ready Mixed Concrete Comp Batesburg       Ready mixed concrete
Monroe Systems For Business Inc     Lexington       Electronic calculators
Owen Electric Steel Co Of S C       West Columbia   Steel reinforcing bars
Owen Joist Corp                     West Columbia   Steel bar joist
Owen Miscellaneous Metals Inc       West Columbia   Light structural framing
  COMPANY NAME                       CITY             MAJOR PRODUCT
 
Pelion Manufacturing Co            Pelion          Dresses
Pennsylvania Glass Sand Corp       West Columbia   Processed silica
Pioneer Steel Co Inc               West Columbia   Steel fabrication
Professional Printers Ltd          West Columbia   Brochures
Progressive Tool & Manufacturing   West Columbia   Tool & dies
Recco Tape & Label Inc             West Columbia   Labels
Reco South Carolina Inc            West Columbia   Fabricated steel tanks
Rose-Talbert Paint Co              West Columbia   Paint,stains,varnishes
Shealy's Millwork & Supplies Inc   West Columbia   Window units
Smith, Ed Lumber Mill              Gilbert         Lumber
Southeastern Concrete Prod Co      West Columbia   Concrete block & brick
Southern Plastics Co               Irmo            Plastic extrusion
Swansea Milling Inc                Swansea         Animal feed
Tamper Corp                        West Columbia   Railroad maint equipment
Twin City Lumber Co Inc            Leesville       Lumber
Union Switch & Signal Div          Batesburg       Assembly electronic products
United Tool & Die Inc              West Columbia   Tools and dies       
   COMPANY NAME                       CITY              MAJOR PRODUCT
 
W R Medlin Company Inc             West Columbia   Structural steel
Weisz Graphics Div-Fred B Johnston Chapin          Silk screen printed decals
Wentworth Printing Corp            West Columbia   Printing
Wood Brothers Inc                  West Columbia   Salad dressings
Zeigler Mfg Inc                    Swansea         Ladies/childrens sportswear
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HORRY COUNTY                                                         
-DOC-
                               HORRY COUNTY                          
 
   COMPANY NAME                       CITY             MAJOR PRODUCT
 
A V X Corporation                 Myrtle Beach    Ceramic capacitors
Aynor Manufacturing Co Inc        Aynor           Ladies sportswear
Bashor Woodcraft Co Inc           Conway          Office furniture
Bay Printing Inc                  N Myrtle Beach  Commercial printing
Burroughs Sprayer                 Loris           Farm equip
Carolina Strand Co Inc            Conway          Furniture
Coastal Fabricators Inc           Conway          Polyurethane foam products
Coastal Publishers Inc            Loris           Newspaper
Coffee Butler Service Inc         Conway          Coffee
Conbraco Ind Inc- Steel Prods Div Conway          Investment casting
Conbraco Ind Inc-Appollo Seal Div Conway          Teflon seals
Custom Machine & Design Inc       Myrtle Beach    Fabrication
Edge Manufacturing Co Inc         Conway          Furniture
Escod Industries Inc              Loris           Printed cable sys & cabl
Escod Industries Inc              N Myrtle Beach  Cable wire harness-computers
Field & Herald, The               Conway          Newspapers
   COMPANY NAME                       CITY               MAJOR PRODUCT
 
Ford's Redi-Mix Concrete Co       Myrtle Beach    Ready mixed concrete
Graham Milling Co                 Aynor           Feed; custom grinding/mil'g
Grand Strand Sandwich Co          N Myrtle Beach  Sandwiches
Grand Strand Screen Printers Inc  N Myrtle Beach  Silk screen printing
Grayco Steel Corp                 Myrtle Beach    Fabricated structural metal
Grove Recreations                 Myrtle Beach    Fiberglass props
Harris Printing Inc               Myrtle Beach    Commercial newsprint print'g
Horry Printers                    Conway          Printing
New South Inc                     Conway          Pine lumber
Offshore                          Myrtle Beach    Fish traps
Pelican Building Components       Conway          Roof trusses
Pelican Millwork                  Conway          Door units
Pepsi Cola Bottling Co            Conway          Soft drinks
Peterson Outdoor Advertis'g Of SC Myrtle Beach    Bulletins & posters
Precision Southeast Inc           Myrtle Beach    Small plastic parts
Ragsdale, T S Co Inc              Conway          Charcoal briquets
  COMPANY NAME                      CITY               MAJOR PRODUCT
 
Stilley Plywood Co Inc            Conway          Hardwood plywood
Strand Steel Inc                  Myrtle Beach    Machine parts
Sun Graphics Inc                  Myrtle Beach    Wooden signs & custom design
Sun Publishing Company Inc        Myrtle Beach    Newspapers
Tarmac-Lone Star Inc              Myrtle Beach    Concrete block
Tuff Stuff Furniture              Loris           Lifestyle furniture
Tyson Sign Corp                   Myrtle Beach    Signs-sheet metal work
Waccamaw Clay Products Co Inc     Myrtle Beach    Special colonial brick
Waccamaw Pottery                  Myrtle Beach    Dinnerware, hand-pottery
Wolverine Brass Works             Conway          Brass plumbing fixtures
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WREN MIDDLE SCHOOL                              
-DOC-
                              WREN MIDDLE SCHOOL

In l957, Wren School opened its doors for the first time.  The school was for
grades 1-12 and had 784 students.  The building is the one presently being used
by the middle school.  Until that time the community had primary schools, but
the students had to attend high school in another county.

In 1970, the district had grown so much that a high school had to be built 
across the road and the original school became grades 5-8.  We now fill the
building once used for all the grades.  When the school was first built,
the community was given the opportunity to name it.  Someone submitted the
name "Wren" because of the state bird.  The students chose blue and gold
for their colors and the hurricane as their emblem.

This year our enrollment is 1000 in grades 5-8, and we recently have moved 
into a large new library which we are really enjoying.

The school is located two miles west of Interstate Highway 85, just off Highway 
86.  We are about one mile from Greenville and twenty miles from Clemson.  This
distance makes us about five and a half hours driving time from Georgetown. Our 
county is divided into five districts, and we are a school in District I of
Anderson County.
 







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-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OVER THE TOP                              
-DOC-

                              OVER THE TOP
        
     The movie "Over The Top" has recently hit the box office with a bounce 
and spring.  This is the first movie for Sylvester Stallone in a while, but he 
proved he wasn't rusty and didn't need any oil to turn the cameras.

     "Over The Top" is Sylvester Stallone playing a truck driver named Hawk
who competes in arm wrestling.  Hawk is a man who deserted his wife and son
ten years earlier.  His wife died with cancer and Hawk wants his son.  The 
movie is about the struggle of the man to keep his son from the child's 
grandfather.

     My rating of this unique movie is a "F" for Fair.  Overall, the movie is 
good; the actors are well chosen; the setting is terrific; but the script 
could be better.  



Nikki Kessler
Beck Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Alluring Allusion                   
-DOC-
                   Alluring Allusion

A warning received, meant well, I suppose.
It wasn't well taken.  I've held the rose.
The thorns do not scare the beauty away.
Once I've been pricked, I pick anyway.
I hold it gently, intending no harm
Slowly, it fades.  Away wilts its charm.
I remember its beauty--the way it felt--
Like holding soft snow and watching it melt.
Pure in its power to capture a heart,
Lost in the blaze of desire, it starts.
I remember the warning, and smile to myself.
Perhaps the allusive, should reprove themselves.


Geraldine Cannon       
Tamassee-Salem Junior High
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE DOLL                                
-DOC-
                                THE DOLL

    There was once a young girl who had a beautiful doll which had been
passed down to her by her great-grandmother.  Susan never knew her great-
grandmother because she had died long before Susan was born.  The doll was
lovely and Susan loved it very much, but there was something very 
strange about it.  The doll looked exactly like the grandmother.  It
had the same color of hair as the grandmother.  The doll's eyes were 
clear blue just as those of the lady.
    One dark, cold night, Susan was suddenly awakened by a strange noise
in her playroom.  She slowly found herself being drawn to the room.
As she opened the door of the playroom, she saw nothing out of the
ordinary.  But the doll was standing in the middle of the room.  Susan
had not remembered leaving her in such a strange place when she went
to bed. 
    All of a sudden Susan noticed that there was a strange glow about
the doll.  She again seemed to be drawn -now drawn not just into the
room but drawn to the doll.  She reached to pick her up; but before
she could, the doll began to speak.
     "Susan," it said, in a very strange, weak voice. "I am the ghost
of your great-grandmother and I am in great danger."
      Susan was very frightened but still felt as if she were 
compelled to remain in the room.
      The doll continued, "You are the only one who can help me."
      Susan ran to her mother's room and began to tell her as quickly
as she could what had just taken place.  Her mother was certain that
Susan had just had a bad dream and insisted that she go back to bed.
Her mother got up and took Susan back to her room.  She sat with her
until she was fast asleep, and not once did she let Susan tell her about
what she had just experienced.
     The next morning Susan jumped out of her bed and ran straight 
to the playroom.  As she opened the door, she saw that something
was different.  Her doll was not in the middle of the floor where
she had seen it.  She looked all around but it was nowhere to be 
found.  Susan went all over the house and there was no doll.  She
searched everywhere, but the beautiful doll had disappeared.
 
     Just what had the doll been trying to tell Susan?  Now she would
never know.

Amy Landreth
Wren Middle School
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE HAUNTED HOUSE                              
-DOC-
                              THE HAUNTED HOUSE

     The house on the hill was very old.  It had broken shutters and broken
windows.  Most of the windows were all boarded up.  One day a man came to town
and bought the old house.  He moved into the old house without doing many
repairs.  Each day as the neighbors passed that way, they could see him moving
around in the almost bare rooms.
     A  month later the old man died.  Some people thought that he died of
natural causes, but the grandson to whom he had left the house felt
differently.  James was certain that someone or something had killed his grand-
father, and he was determined to find out.  His parents thought that he had 
gone mad when he announced that he was moving into the old house.  But, James
was determined.
     The first night at the house was very ordinary. James did not even hear a
sound.  However, from then on things were different.  Weird things began to
happen.  Doors would open and no one would be there.  The shutters would bang
and rattle when there was not a breath of wind stirring.  And James even
thought that he heard children running and playing on the second floor.
     One day something really out of the ordinary happened.  The boy went to
open the front door, and it would not open.  James ran to all the other doors
and they, too, would not open. Everything seemed to take on a dead silence.
Then he heard it.  It was the strangest laughter James had ever heard.
This strange laughter got louder and louder.  Again he tried all the doors.
The doors were locked tight and there was no way out. He could not cry out 
or scream.  All he could do was just stand and shake and shiver.
     The silence was once again broken by the clock in the hall striking
midnight.  Then it happened!  Above him on the second floor, it seemed as if a
wild party broke out.  He was too scared to move, much less go upstairs to see
what was going on.  James simply collapsed on the couch and hid his head under
a pillow.  Soon he fell asleep.
     Later he awoke to the sound of knocking.  Groggy from his deep sleep,
James sat up slowly, rubbed his eyes, and tried to shake himself into reality.
Again there was the knock at the door.  James jumped up and ran to the front
door. To his surprise, the door opened the minute he touched the knob.
Standing at the door was his mother holding a large tray of food. 
     Without asking his mom in or anything,  James grabbed his coat and 
rushed past her. As his mother caught up with him on the sidewalk, she asked,
" James, what on earth is wrong? "
     He began to tell her what had happened the night before, and she just
laughed and tried to tell him he had fallen asleep on the sofa and had had a
bad dream.  Suddenly James turned around and started back toward the old house. 
If his own mother wouldn't believe him, who could he expect to believe this
strange story?  He would just have to spend another night in the old house. Then
he thought, " What if she's right and it was just my imagination playing tricks
on me? "  He had to know.
     Just going up on the porch of the old house gave him the creeps. As he
opened the door, he was surprised to see that everything inside the house had
changed.  He could hardly recognize the place he left just minutes before. 
James was about to go upstairs when he heard the sound of a key turning in a
lock. The front door was once again locked.  Turning toward the living room,
he saw that all the furniture was now covered with white sheets.  James turned
to the stairs and went up to the second floor.  When he reached the second
floor, what he saw was indescribable.  He turned to run down the steps.  As he
turned,  he tripped over a loose board and fell to his death on the landing
below.
     When his mother reached her house, she began to think about the things
James had tried to tell her.  Could he have imagined all this?  Was he in some
kind of danger in the old house?  She began to run down the street in the
direction of the house.  As she did, her mind was full of concern for James.
      As she reached the old house, she ran to the front door  which was
standing open.  She dashed in only to find the body of her son crumpled at the
foot of the stairs.
      To this day, his parents and the other people of the community do not know
what happened.  Did James just fall or was he pushed by the same person or
thing that might have killed his grandfather?  What is even more strange, just
a week after James died, the old house burned, ending the era of the "haunted
house on the hill."
 

Annette Thurston
Wren Middle School
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GERALDINE CANNON                                
-DOC-
                            GERALDINE CANNON    

     Geraldine Cannon, a senior at Tamassee-Salem High School, has lived in
the small town of Salem all of her life.  She likes Salem because it is so
small; she doesn't like to feel crowded or closed in--the country is the
perfect place for her to open up and write about anything she has on her mind.
She likes to watch people and hear them talk about themselves.  She says she
is a good listener but can express herself better on paper than in person.
She is a shy person and likes it that way.  She says, "I am what I want
to be right now, and I am looking forward to a future full of 
challenging possibilities."
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHAT'S HOT IN FASHION?                              
-DOC-


                          WHAT'S HOT IN FASHION?    
                           
     There are many different fashions for today and for all ages.  Whatever
your taste in clothes might be, the sky is the limit.  Most teenagers are
interested in what the latest styles are.  Many girls like the neat sweater,
skirts, and pants that come from such lines as Esprit and Santa Cruz.
     Even though skirts are longer, there are still the popular miniskirts.
Sweaters are brighter with vibrant colors.  Even for people who like to stick
to basic blue jeans, a lot has been added.  You can find jeans with all kinds
of designs and accessories on them.  Denim is still very popular.  There are
more demin jackets, pocketbooks, and even denim shoes!
     Playing with fashion ideas and creating new outfits can really be fun 
once you get involved.  

Holly McDaniel
Wren Middle School   

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHAT IS WRENS?                                
-DOC-
                                WHAT IS WRENS?

     (Editor's note:  Melissa Pelfrey, a student at Tamassee-Salem High School,
shares her perceptions of WRENS in this story.  Other student perceptions of
" What is WRENS? " will appear in future issues of Palmetto Points.)


                      " WRENS in South Carolina Schools "

     On Tuesday February 17, my English teacher, Den Latham, approached me with
the opportunity to attend a computer conference the following weekend in
Georgetown, South Carolina, as a student reporter.  It would give me the
chance to learn a little about a South Carolina computer network, and give me
an opportunity to inform the public about what is going on in South Carolina
schools.

     Den, his wife Allison, and I started out about 11:00, Friday, February 20,
on our long trip to Georgetown.  The entire trip took approximately seven
hours.  After our tiring ride we arrived just in time to make our dinner
reservations.  We dined at Nance's Original Oyster Grill where we enjoyed a
great meal, good company, fine conversation, and a much needed rest.  Our
dinner companions were some of the teachers who had also come to attend the
conference.

     The next morning we headed for Beck Middle School, where the conference
was to be held.  As the conference started, my excitement grew; and I realized
what a great opportunity this was.

     The conference was hosted by Beck Middle School, and the hostess was
Patricia Candal, an English teacher at Beck.  She and her students are the
creators of WRENS.  WRENS, which stands for Writing and Reading Electronic
Network for Students, is exactly what it states: a writing network for
students.  All works published in WRENS are written by students.  The WRENS
system was developed to give students a chance to have their work published,
read, and responded to by students across the state.  One of the great things
about this system is that anyone who reads material in WRENS can write to the
author by electronic mail, so that the author gets an idea of the reader's
reaction.  Another great thing about WRENS is that the students decide what
kinds of topics the WRENS system will include.

     Along with WRENS, Dr. Candal is developing JESSAMINE, which is a computer
network specifically for teachers.  On the JESSAMINE menu there is a place for 
ideas in such subjects as science, literature, computers, and even a place for
teachers to publish personal writing.  Mrs. Candal is hoping to involve the
teachers as well as the students in the computer world, to use the computer
to encourage effective writing and teaching.

     Both WRENS and JESSAMINE are on the CUFAN system.  CUFAN, which stands
for Clemson University Foresty and Agricultural Network, was started about
two years ago to provide information on agriculture and related topics and to
create a communications network for county agents and farmers to send mail and
to talk with each other by computer.  Dr. Jerry Lambert, Computer Coordinator
for the College of Agricultural Sciences at Clemson, has encouraged and helped
the teachers and students to develop WRENS and JESSAMINE.  The schools on line
in WRENS now are Beck Middle,  Edwards Elementary, Gilbert High, Morrison
Elementary, Tamassee-Salem, and Wren Middle.

     The other participants of the conference were: Dorthula Green and Steve
Candal from Beck Middle; Jo Ann Wigington from Wren Middle; Sandra Laughlan and
Mike Frye from West Conway Middle; Vicki Brockman from Rock Hill Elementary;
Dottie Graham from Winthrop College; Diane Hoffman from Stanford University in
Berkeley, California; Nick Gaspers from Macedonia Middle; and Ike Coleman
from Clemson University.  Some of them were there to learn more about the
network and how to get hooked up to the system, but others were there to
discuss how the network is working in their classes.

     We discussed problems in setting up the computers, and students'
reactions to them.  Although it is not difficult to connect the computers to
CUFAN, there is a shortage of computers in the schools.  With the help of Jerry
Lambert, Ike Coleman, and several computer experts from Clemson, this problem
is being solved, but time has also become a big problem.  Even after the
computers are hooked up, the students, with their regular work load are having
difficulty finding time to work on them.  Many are coming in during lunch and
staying after school. Some of the teachers are finding ways for the WRENS work
to be included in regular class assignments.  Even with its problems, however,
the system is slowly being completed, and in the end it will have been worth
the wait.

     The WRENS program is financially supported by funds from Coastal Carolina
College for the assistant, Mrs. Cheryl Bellune, and from Bread Loaf School
of English to help some of the schools get on line.

     After the conference, Allison, Den and I went to the River Room, a 
restaurant on the waterfront where we enjoyed a good meal and great atmosphere. 
Then, despite the cold weather, we took a walk on the beach at Pawley's Island.
It was beautiful.  After gathering our treasures we found on the beach, we piled
back into the car and prepared for the long ride home.  On the way home, while
thinking about the events of the last few hours, I realized that I still had
much left to learn, but I feel that I made a great start that weekend.  And I
had a good time while I did!


Melissa Pelfrey
Tamassee-Salem
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BLUBBER                                 
-DOC-
                                 BLUBBER
        
                              by Judy Blume


     This book is about a girl, Jill Brenner, who is in the fifth grade. 
Her best friend is Tracy Wu.  Tracy can stand up for herself.  In the class
is a girl named Wendy who bosses everyone around. Wendy, a girl named Caroline,
and Jill pick on a girl named Linda Fischer.  Linda is a little overweight, but
she is a "first class wimp."  They call her "Blubber."  Wendy picks on her the
most.  Then Jill takes it up.  Linda cannot stand up for herself until Tracy
tells her that Jill is afraid of Wendy.  Jill stands up to Wendy and turns
Caroline, Wendy's best friend, against her.  Linda finally finds peace with her
classmates.  This is a book you can enjoy because you see these same situations 
time and time again in your own class.  

Andy Finley
Wren Middle School
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOP SECRET:ALLIGATORS                            
-DOC-

                            TOP SECRET:ALLIGATORS

                              by Henry Goodwin

     This book is about some young alligators who were sold as pets after
their mother died.  The children who took the alligators loved them very much.
However, the parents did not like the alligators at all.  Most of the parents
flushed the alligators into the sewer.  The animals grew to be fairly large.
The alligators wanted very much to return to the swamp. One day they got that
chance.  The grate on the street above them had been moved.  They quickly
crawled away to the river and swam back to the swamp.

Joey Browning
Wren Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TWO SEASONS                                   
-DOC-
                                   TWO SEASONS
       

        Winter
      Gray, snowy
 Sleeting, freezing, sliding
Snowmen, sleds; kites, flowers
 Warm, green, breezy
     Sunny, pretty
        Spring.
      

Amy McJunkin
Wren Middle School
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DEAR NETTIE                                    
-DOC-
     

                                    DEAR NETTIE



     DEAR NETTIE:  I have this problem with my Mom.  She has told me that I am
                   old enough to have guys over, but every time they come over 
                   she always embarrasses me.  What should I do to get her to  
                   stop?                                           

                                                          Troubled


     NETTIE SAYS:  You have to remember that one time in your mother's life she
                   was a teenager, too.  Remind her what it was like to have    
                   your mother dragging out old photo albums.  If that doesn't 
                   work, try going out or go to a friend's or your boyfriend's  
                   house more often.  There is no sure way to avoid your       
                   mother, so be kind and understanding.                      
                                                                               
                                                          Nettie.






     DEAR NETTIE:  I am going with a boy and when he calls my brother always   
                   stands over my shoulder.  The thing is--I don't do that to  
                   him when his girlfriends call.  What should I do?          
                                                        
                                                           Troubled Sister



     NETTIE SAYS:  I deeply understand how you feel.  I have an older brother   
                   who actually picks up the phone when my boyfriend calls.     
                   Instead of beating him up, do the next best thing.  Ask your 
                   mom if you can have a phone and explain to her why.  I have  
                   a feeling the reason your brother is standing over you is   
                   because he cares.  I ought to know; I have one.              
                                                                               
                                                            Nettie.            
                       




                                                       
     DEAR NETTIE:  There is a boy I really like.  He is in the tenth grade.    
                   Sometimes I think that he likes me, but he won't tell me.   
                   He stares at me all the time and talks to me a lot.  How can 
                   I find out if he likes me without making him angry?         
                                                                               
                                                             Lost Love

     NETTIE SAYS:  If he does like you, you will find out soon enough.  Just go 
                   ahead and be your own super self.  If you flirt too much,
                   you might lose him forever.                                
                                                             Nettie       


     Nettie has gotten so many questions, too many to put into the newsletter. 
Thank you for all of the letters. We are so happy for the response.  These are 
only three of the many letters that we have received.  The rest of the
questions will be printed in a small booklet, as well as in WRENS. Keep 
writing and have a nice day.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GLENDA HARTER                          
-DOC-
                          GLENDA HARTER
                        Beck Middle School

     I am 14 years old and I'm in the 8th grade at Beck.  I have auburn hair,
greenish-brown eyes and fair complexion.  I'm 5 ft. 9 in. tall.  Some of my
hobbies are swimming, basketball, football, riding bikes, tennis and just
plain fun.

     If there's anything else you would like to know about me, send me an
E-Mail message.  I'm in Dr. Candal's 5th period class.  Look for more of my
work to be published in Wrens.   
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHLORIS AND THE WEIRDOS                         
-DOC-
                         CHLORIS AND THE WEIRDOS
                            
                              by Kin Platt


     Jenny and Chloris Carpenter are sisters whose mother has been divorced   
a year.  Jenny misses Fidel, their stepfather, but Chloris is very glad the 
parents are divorced.  Jenny begins dating Harold, a dedicated skateboarder
whom Chloris immediately labels a weirdo.  Then Chloris starts dating Wayne
Gavin who eats at the pizza restaurant where Chloris works. She even labels
him a weirdo.  Wayne invites her to a ski weekend at Mammouth Mountain.
Their mother begins going out with Mr. Sloan who is very nice but, of course,
the girls label him a weirdo.  Chloris decides to go on the skiing trip even 
without her mother's permission and things really become complicated.  In the
end, things begin to start looking up for the two girls.  Read this great
book to see just what can happen to not one but two teenagers.


Shana Dunn
Wren Middle School
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE CYBIL WAR                              
-DOC-

                              THE CYBIL WAR
  
                              by Betsy Byars


     This story is the struggle between two boys, Simon and Tony, over a girl
named Cybil.  The story recounts their feuds, fusses, and fights which go on
for a long time since Cybil takes her time in picking the one she likes.  Simon
is a shy, nice, and pleasant person with a few faults.  Tony, however, is a
mean, name-calling liar who has plenty of faults.  The story lets you know that
she likes Simon best, but a couple of times I almost decided she will choose
Tony. I recommend the book very highly.  Betsy Byars writes interesting books
for young people.


Jarret Lanford
Wren Middle School
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VOICES IN THE DARK                             
-DOC-
                             VOICES IN THE DARK

                              by James Haynes

      This is the story about Christie Moncreiff who was caught up in
something she could not control.  One of her ancestors, Cor Moncreiff, had
loved a Christie Moncreiff when he was alive.  He was into black magic and now
had come back to get Christie, and in doing so he granted her every wish.
Things progress until Christie is planning to leave with her car.  Suddenly
Scott, her boyfriend, appears with a burning cross which he throws at Cor.
When this happnes, Cor is burned up.  Things then can get back to normal.


Ryan Smith
Wren Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APRIL ADDITIONS                              
-DOC-


                              APRIL ADDITIONS


       Our additions for April are:

       Stephen Hall 4-24                             Sabrina League 4-28
       Selina Richards 4-5                           Kelly Ellwell 4-5
       Shawn Poore 4-23                              Wendy Gregory 4-2
       Edward Lanford 4-3                            Amy Elrod 4-6
       Stephanie Taylor 4-18                         Mandy Groff 4-11
       Chad McGaha 4-14                              Derick Hagood 4-28
       Mary Surl 4-21                                Abby Manson 4-19
       Maggie Durham 4-3                             Julie Lamb 4-30
       Jean Roberts 4-15                             

      I would like to thank all of the schools who participated by 
sending in birthdays. It was a great help for me so that the article would 
be longer.  I would also like to apologize for putting you to so much trouble 
by requesting dates after you had already sent in the birthdays.  Once 
again I am requesting that the schools who did not participate this month
will send in the birthdays for May.  Just send them to Marci at WRBECK.
Your cooperation will be greatly appreciated.

**********************Marci Tuten;Beck Middle School***************************

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BECK MIDDLE SCHOOL                              
-DOC-

                              BECK MIDDLE SCHOOL

     Beck Middle School was named after Dr. Joseph Brown Beck, a former
principal in Georgetown.  Beck School has been in the Georgetown community
for thirty-five years and a new addition was added in 1981.  Beck students are
sixth, seventh, and eighth graders.  More than 1,000 students get their
schooling and training here for the high school years to come.  Even though
Beck is located inside Georgetown city limits, many of the students come from
outside the immediate community.
     We have a variety of students, teachers, classes, and sports.  We have a
boys' and girls' basketball team that did very well.  Some of our students 
even participate in high school sports.  We recently had our Mr. and Miss Beck
Pageant which was fun for everyone.  Beck is very proud of its activities and
students.  We have the typical activities such as a science fair and spelling
bee.  We also have a very active student council that helps plan and involve
students in various activities.


Becki Carpenter
Beck Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
A FRIEND                      
-DOC-
    

                      A FRIEND

A friend is a person
Who is in need,
And a person
Who does a good deed.
A friend cares and seldom fears.
When you're in trouble,
You won't have to struggle.
A friend is a person
You can lean on
And always depend on.


Melinda Wigfall
Beck Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
A BRIGHTER DAY                             
-DOC-


                             A BRIGHTER DAY

A brighter day is a day
When you feel loved,
A day when you notice
The birds from above.
Some days you feel sad
And it shows on your face.
Other days you're happy,
Overflowing with grace.
The sadness goes away
On a brighter day.


Melinda Wigfall
Beck Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
*******************A Kid's Opinion on the Iran-Arms Trade******************* 
-DOC-
 *******************A Kid's Opinion on the Iran-Arms Trade*******************

           Governments never even think what a kid could contribute when it 
comes to business.  I can hear them say, "Keep them in the cradle and put a 
pacifier in their mouth just as long as they shut-up."  Several adults wouldn't 
even consider kids' opinions; but this kid has a definite opinion, no matter 
what they might say.
           To me and a lot of other kids, the Iran-Arms trade was definitely
wrong, but the press is blaming the innocent.  Whatever happened to "You're
innocent until proven guilty"?  I feel that we're ready for a war when there
is no need for one. The press needs to open its eyes, wake up and smell the
coffee; but for heaven's sake, stop blaming the wrong people and prosecute the
right ones.  You're probably thinking we already have the right ones so I
should just drop it. Well, I can't. I watched the Presidential telecast
recently, and I saw the press try to persecute the President.  It's not right
that the press has the nerve to insinuate that the President had his hand in
the cookie jar and obviously got caught. 
         If our nation is going to actually accuse our President of defying the 
laws that our forefathers laid down, I think someone should tell the accusers 
where to get off.  If they don't, then our country is no better than Russia; 
and we need to start over and build a better nation, one that doesn't falsely 
accuse our leaders.
         Even if the President did have a hand in this matter--which I don't 
believe he did, but just for the sake of argument--it was to free hostages. If 
it was the only way to free them, then it had a good purpose, no matter what 
anyone might say.  A life is a terrible thing to waste and we're just trying to 
preserve that and to save many Americans.  How can that be wrong?  Put yourself 
in the  place of the families of the hostages.  How would you feel and how
would you act?  Hostile, perhaps. Now put yourself in the President's place,
wouldn't you try to help in the slightest way, even if it meant trading arms?  


****************************************  NIKKI KESSLER **********************

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALBERT EINSTEIN                             
-DOC-


                             ALBERT EINSTEIN

     Albert Einstein was a German-born physicist, formulator of the theories
of relativity, gravitation, and a unified field.  He was the winner of the
Nobel prize in physics for 1921 "for the photoelectric law and his work in the 
domain of theoretical physics."  He was born in Vlm, Germany, on March 14, 
1879.

     Einstein died in Princeton, N.J. on April 18, 1955.  To celebrate his 70th
birthday, a volume of essays of his work was published.  The book, ALBERT
EINSTEIN: PHILOSOPHER-SCIENTIST, includes comments by some of the world's
leading physicists and philosophers.


Heather Fleming
Beck Middle School
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE CAROLINA WREN                            
-DOC-



                            THE CAROLINA WREN

     The wren is a small-insect eating bird common to shrubland and brushland.
This bird represents South Carolina.  Both sexes of wrens look alike.  They are
from 10 to 22 cm. long and have short, rounded wings.  They have slender bills
and often sharp, erected tails.  They are also found in the rain forest,
marshes, deserts and rocky areas.

     Wrens lay from two to ten white or speckled eggs in cavities or covered
nests constructed in bushes, reed grasses, or trees.


Aaron Moore
Beck Middle


Note: Version 2 on the next page.





                              THE CAROLINA WREN

     The Carolina Wren is known for its beautiful song and its helpfulness to
us by eating insects.  It often hides from us, and even though we cannot see 
the bird, we can hear it.  This friendly bird can be seen from the seashore to
the mountains of South Carolina.  It's only five and one-half inches long and
holds its tail straight up in the air, except when it is singing.

Pamela Wayne
Trina White
Beck Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE PALMETTO TREE                           
-DOC-


                           THE PALMETTO TREE

     The palmetto is the name given to several kinds of fan-leaved palm trees.
The best known palmetto tree is the cabbage palm, the state tree of South 
Carolina.  Three kinds of palmettos are the dwarf, the blue, and the saw which 
grow in low regions along the U.S. coast, particularly in the southeastern 
part of the country.  Some palmettos grow to fifty feet high, but the dwarf 
variety is low.  The palmetto belongs to the palm family, PALMAE, and makes
up the genus, SABEL.


Michael McGraw
Beck Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE LOVE INSIDE YOU                                
-DOC-

                                THE LOVE INSIDE YOU

The honor of mountains
Stand brave and high.
The flight of doves
Float gently by.
The clouds like pillows in the air
Seem to wander without a care.
The stream below
With its sparkling complexion,
Leaves beauty and warmth 
In its fervent reflection.
These things add beauty
To nature and love.
One love stands out among the few:
That is the love inside you.

Scott Morrison
Wren Middle School


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MELINDA WIGFALL                             
-DOC-


                             MELINDA WIGFALL

     I am fourteen years old and I am a student at Beck Middle School.  My
favorite subject is history because it makes me think harder.  I enjoy writing 
and reading poems.  I like the way the words rhyme.  My favorite sport is
volleyball.


Melinda Wigfall
Beck Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CALIFORNIA TRIP                                
-DOC-


                                CALIFORNIA TRIP


     Two summers ago I went to California for the third time.  On the way we 
stopped at a campground to stay for the night.  The next morning my little 
brother wanted me to go to the see-saw with him.  I told him I would since
there was nothing else to do.  After a while I decided to quit and jumped off,
my brother fell to the ground.  We then got into a fight and I nailed my
brother one.  I was so happy I swung on and off of the trapeze bar until my
brother got almost to the camper.  I then jumped off of the trapeze bar and it
almost cut the top of my ear off.  I went crazy when I saw the blood.  Well,
right now I have my ear because my dad bandaged it up and it is not cut any
more.  Boy, am I happy that I don't have an L-shaped ear!

     
Shay Sheehan
Beck Middle School  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MY FRIEND SARA                              
-DOC-


                              MY FRIEND SARA


     My favorite friend is Sara.  She is also my best friend.  I am happy that
she is my best friend because we always have so much fun together.  We have
been best friends for three years and I love it.  We do everything together,
but some times it does not work out that way.  One time when I spent the night
with her we went to play tennis. I have never hit the ball so hard in all of
my life.
     Another time when Sara came over to spend the night with me, we were
making a movie on the tape recorder and we were doing the credits.  Now, we
were already laughing and didn't know why.  Well, Sara said, "The producer is
Henny Penny."  It really wasn't funny at first, but then I started to crack-up.
So did she. Then  between laughs she said, "The co-producer is Amy Shamy."  I
was laughing so hard I thought I was going to die.  Well, we really like each
other.  She is so pretty; she makes Christy Brinkly look like a "DOG."

                                       
Jessica Harrelson
Beck Middle School                        


                 
    


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MY FRIEND JESSICA                             
-DOC-


                             MY FRIEND JESSICA

        My favorite friend is a person.  She is a wild and crazy girl.  Her
name is Jessica.  Jessica and I have been best friends for about three years.  
The thing I like about her is that she makes me have fun.
        Jessica's face always makes me smile when I come to school in the 
morning.  She's very pretty.  She has a funny little smile that can make 
you crack up.  I'm proud to have her as a best friend.
        The greatest thing about her is that every time I see her, something 
happens to make it a hilarious memory.  Once Jessica put my blue eyeshadow all
over her face so that she looked like a Smurf.
        Another memory was when I was out of the room.  Jessica put something 
over her head to make it look like she was knocked out.  The thing weighed
about two ounces!  When I came back into the room Jessica was lying on the 
floor.  The thing was on her head and she was cracking up like a maniac. 
        Jess and I couldn't be more perfectly made for being best friends,  
with her wild and crazy ways and my sometimes wild but usually studious ways. 
Let's face it.  Opposites attract.
        Before I leave you, I want to tell you about how she acts in front of 
a teacher.  Every time she asks a question her neck twitches.  It shows how
nervous she is.  As you can see, you can't find a better friend than my
very best friend, Jessica Harrelson.


Sara Centioni
Beck Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MY FRIEND LESLIE                               
-DOC-


                               MY FRIEND LESLIE

        My best friend and I have had special times together.  Her name is
Leslie Price.  We always have a good time together no matter what we do.
        Leslie used to live at the beach, but she recently moved into town.
Even though she lives in town, I still don't get to see her much.  She goes
to school at Waccamaw.  She might come to Beck next year, but she might stay
at Waccamaw for the eighth grade, too.  
        Her new house in town is close to Front Street so we always walk down-
town and go shopping.
        She and I have a lot in common.  We both like to read, shop, swim, and
ride bikes.  We teach each other things, too.  If I learn something, I teach
her how to do it and she does the same for me.
        She is the best friend I have ever had, and I hope that she and I will
always be good friends.
                                         

Heather Fleming
Beck Middle School
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PLANT MAZE                                
-DOC-


                                PLANT MAZE

TRY TO FIND THE WORDS IN THE PUZZLE.  BE CAREFUL, THEY ARE TRICKY.

            F O R Q S C B O T A N I S T S Y E U P W X P
            E R E S P I R A T I O N P A I Z P F U Y Y O
            R X Y F E R N S C E P M O L D S I T F H J L
            T Z A B R J P L M B N O R Q R S D V F Q L L
            I Z A I M K U Z Y G O T E C W X E G B I H I
            L Y H X C V S R H G V J S M E F R A A G M N
            I W G V E I N S F I A E K B L Y M V L L Q A
            Z J K F L Q T B O N R K B D D Z I W L Q O T
            A J B C L N L O Q R Y D I C O T S U S V I I
            T I E M S T A M E N S S O P Q R Q K U T P O
            I H P D N O M U S H R O O M S R S S T X M N
            O E G P H O T O S Y N T H E S I S B S R K A
            N F A S E X U A L R E P R O D U C T I O N C





                                  WORD BANK

ZYGOTE                      DICOTS                     POLLINATION
SPORES                      FERTILIZATION              OVARY
MOLDS                       SPERM CELLS                STAMENS
MUSHROOMS                   FERNS                      RESPIRATION
PUFFBALLS                   VEINS                      EPIDERMIS
ASEXUAL REPRODUCTION        BOTANISTS                  PHOTOSYNTHESIS


Tranea Kinloch
Beck Middle School




-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEAUTY IS ALWAYS THERE                           
-DOC-
     

                           BEAUTY IS ALWAYS THERE

I am special because I am.
I need no praise to see this.
I see the beauty inside of me;
I look for the beauty in others.
Beauty can be found in all things
If we look with unprejudiced eyes.

Tracy Swinton
Beck Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMPUTER MAZE                            
-DOC-


                            COMPUTER MAZE


                  I C I M H E K W A T A R E H E Y G
                  A A A N E W F R I E N D S A E H M
                  Q R O L D R O I F N A N G F L W E
                  M P R O J E C T R D S T E G E A N
                  N E I N A A M I R E S E A R C H E
                  E A S G W R E N S F F O G R T Y J 
                  A G F S E C O G O C M D H C R O Z
                  C P P U A H A L W A A I U C O D G
                  K H T A C G R D A M L S K K N N I 
                  R O L V C D E N K E X K I T I N G
                  O N L I N E A S E R B I A T C H Y
                  W E K D C R D L R A L Y T R M E R
                  T M Z E T R A C U Y K E Y P A L S
                  E K C O M P U T E R S A M P I Z N
                  N I K I N A H S J O U R N A L A T


                               WORD BANK

   NETWORK          ELECTRONIC MAIL         COMPUTERS          JOURNAL
   PHONE            NEW FRIENDS             EXCITING           DISK
   VIDEO            ON LINE                 RESEARCH           CAMERA
   WRENS            MESSAGES                WRITING            CUFAN
   PROJECT          KEY PALS                EUREKA  
      


Heather Graham
Beck Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE KILLER                                 
-DOC-


                                 THE KILLER

     It was a dark, dismal night.  The killer was on the loose.  I knew that
he wouldn't be coming to Greenville, but I was still edgy.  In fact, every 
little sound made me jump ten feet.  You see, I live on Elm Street, and I just 
finished watching "Nightmare on Elm Street," part one and two.  Now, whenever I 
go past a mirror or a window I scare myself to death!

     I'm babysitting for my mom.  After putting my sister to bed, I sat on the
couch by the window to watch T.V.  My sister is asleep, but for once in my 
life, I wish that she could stay up.

     I heard a sound outside of the window and told myself that it was just 
the cat in the bushes, but I couldn't believe myself.  I turned off the T.V. 
to hear if there was a sound outside.  Then I heard it again.  It sounded like 
someone walking around.  I know that I jumped ten feet.  I told myself to 
remain calm, but I just couldn't help being scared.  Horrifed, I got up and 
made sure all the doors and windows were locked. 

     When I had assured myself that no one was going to get in, I went to 
check on Christy.  She was sleeping fine.  I decided to go downstairs to watch 
more T.V.  Unfortunately, the only shows on were "My Bloody Valentine," "A Slow 
Death," and "Eat Your Heart Out."  So I turned off the T.V. and started to 
read.  Once again, I heard the sound.  I turned around to look out of the 
window.  No one was there, but I could still faintly hear the noise.  It was 
no longer coming from the same window; it was coming from the sliding glass 
doors.  They started to slide open.  Oh, my God, I forgot to lock those doors!  
I ran upstairs to Christy's room and locked the door.  I heard footsteps 
coming up the stairs.

     I woke Christy up and told her that someone was in the house.  She got
scared and said that she wanted her mommy.  I told her not to get upset, but
to be calm.  I, however, really was not being very calm myself.  Slowly, the
doorknob turned.  I was frantic.  I went over to the window; all the time the
doorknob kept turning.  It wasn't lightning or thundering anymore, but it was
slightly raining.  I decided that I would let Christy down through the window
with a sheet.  I told her to go to Mary's, the neighbor, and call the police.
Just as she was on the ground, the door burst open.  Someone was standing in
the doorway.  He was a tall, muscular man, wet and dripping.  He said nothing
but moved slowly forward.  I was so glad that I had sent Christy to Mary's to
call the police.  Suddenly, he held up a knife and moved towards me.  I
trembled in my shoes.  Then he tried to stab me, but I dodged the blade
quickly enough not to get hit.  I picked up a lamp and smashed it over his
head.  He shook his head vigorously.  Then looked at me and smiled.  A shiver
ran up my spine.  I don't know if it was a shiver of fear or of anger.  I
think it was a mixture of both.

     I looked around in search of something with which to stop him.  I spotted
Christy's table and chair set.  I dodged the knife again and ran to the chairs
and brought one down upon his head, but he persisted.  Determined not to be
killed, I picked up the other chair and brought it down over his head.  He
collapsed onto the floor.  I ran out of the door and down the stairs.  I heard
footsteps coming down the stairs and I screamed.  I ran out of the sliding
glass doors and ran towards Mary's.  To my relief, the police had arrived.
They went into the house and got the killer and took him to jail where he was
held until his trial.

     I went over to get Christy from Mary's and Mom was there.  She said she
was worried sick.

     A year later the killer was given the electric chair.  Greenville has never
been the same since.        


Amanda Camlin
Beck Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
A PREMONITION OF DEATH                            
-DOC-


                            A PREMONITION OF DEATH

    I woke up in a cold sweat.  As I sat in my bed, I recalled the 
depressing dream I had just two weeks before. It wasn't that I was scared of
it.  It was the fact that it came true, not in the same form, but close enough.

    I still remember it very clearly.  I was standing on the steps of the 
Plantation House at Keithfield.  I was young again, maybe 3 or 4 years old.  My 
Hutto family was standing behind me, all except for my grandfather, "Pops."  
He was standing beside me.  The whole family was dressed in white except for 
Pops. He was dressed in black.

    As I looked across the old wooden bridge, I saw a white carriage being 
pulled by a white horse.  As it came closer I saw a black casket in the back.  
The only thing I noticed was.....no one was driving the carriage!

    I turned my eyes back to the casket and as I did, it opened very slowly. 
When it was open, the inside was all white except for a body that was dressed
in black.  Pops and I walked closer to it.  I finally noticed that this was my 
grandmother.  She opened her bright blue eyes and reached out with her hand to 
my grandfather.  He grabbed her hand, stepped on the carriage, then kissed me
on my cheek.  

    It's hard to believe that two weeks later Pops was dead!  I wonder...
should I had told someone about this dream?  Was it my fault?  These tears I
cry are the price I pay.

    I forgot one important thing!  As he rode off on the carriage, he had a
beautiful smile on his face!  One that reminds me how much he must have
missed her the seven years they were apart.
  
     Now they're together!  That's the wonderful price we all had to pay!


Kathy Wehmeyer
Beck Middle School

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
YELLOW JESSAMINE     
-DOC-
 


     YELLOW JESSAMINE

No flower that blooms holds
Such a perfumed fragrance.
It wins the kindness and
Sympathy of all.
It captures the south with
Its lovely color,
Has its blooms all over.
As far as the eye can see,
yellow covers a field of green.
It climbs up the trunks of trees
And swings free.
The state flower,
The Yellow Jessamine.

Roosevelt Nesbitt
Beck Middle School
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE BEST BAD THING                               
-DOC-
                               THE BEST BAD THING

                               by: Yoshiko Uchida

     Rinko is a Japanese girl who is telling this story. One day her mother
says she has to go to Mrs.  Hata's house.  Rinko's friend, Tami, thinks Mrs. 
Hata is a little crazy.  Rinko agrees.  Rinko's mother wants Rinko to go to Mrs.
Hata's because it's the forty-ninth anniversary of Mr. Hata's death.  Mrs. Hata
has two boys, Abu, who is eight years old, and Zenny, who is his older brother.
Zenny's real name is Zenichiro Hata.  Abu was named after Abraham Lincoln.
     Rinko didn't want to go to Mrs. Hata's house because she thought she
would ruin her last month of summer.  Soon, after Rinko has stayed with Mrs.
Hata for a few weeks, she begins to realize "people are not always what they
seem, and what appears to be a 'bad thing' can sometimes be quite good after
all."
     Rinko enjoyed her stay at Mrs. Hata's because she could ride the rails
with Abu and Zenny.  She was happy when the old kitemaker, an illegal alien,
left her favorite butterfly kite when he had to leave the country.  I wanted
to read this book because the cover was interesting, and it was about Japanese
children.

Kimberlee Scott
8 years old
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL MARKET REPORT                           
-DOC-
                          AGRICULTURAL MARKET REPORT 
            Wayne Purcell, Virginia Cooperative Extension Service

                              December 29, 1987

This week, I will take a quick look ahead at 1988.  The picture is mixed.  In 
the grains and oilseeds, prices should be slightly better.  In the livestock 
sector, the news is not as good.  Cattle prices may hold up reasonably well, 
especially for stocker and feeder cattle, but hog prices will be under 
pressure all year.  With another big increase in poultry production, 1988 
will see record-large per capita production of total meats. 

In corn, wheat, and in soybeans, the surplus stocks as we head into calendar 
year 1988 are large by historical standards, but the size of the stocks does 
not tell the entire story.  In every case, the surplus or ending stocks are 
coming down, and that is very important in the price outlook for the year. 

Early in 1987, for example, the estimates of ending stocks in soybeans for 
the 1987-88 crop year were at 500 million bushels or more.  Now, we see 
estimates in the 335 million range, and the market likes that type of 
improvement.  In recent weeks, riding the strength of improved world demand, 
both the soyoil and the soybean meal futures made new contract highs.  
January soybeans traded above $6.00, a significant improvement over the $4.65 
trading level of the November '87 futures earlier in 1987. 

In corn and in wheat, improvement in the stock levels is less pronounced but 
the movement is still in the right direction.  If the markets get no 
unexpected bearish shocks, we should see modest improvement in corn prices as 
we head into the spring months and I expect to see the soybean prices rally 
back toward the highs above $6.00 again.  In general, I would suggest to 
producers that they consider lifting short hedges on price dips to important 
support planes.  Users should consider placing long hedges in corn and in 
soybean meal on those same price dips. I will watch these markets and try to 
pinpoint opportunities in future weeks in this series. 

In wheat, I would be inclined to look at placing short hedges any time the 
net price is above $2.50.  This is especially important, I believe, for 
producers who will not be in the program.  Across the past few weeks, the 
new-crop July (Chicago) futures contract has made new contract highs above 
the $3.00 level.  A futures price at that level means a net price of $2.50 or 
better to producers who are looking at a harvest-period basis expectation of 
 $.50 or better. 

Going into the year, we will have about 7 percent more cattle on feed in the 7 
major feeding states.  In spite of the increased numbers of cattle on feed, 
most analysts expect to see a 2-3 percent reduction in per capita supplies of 
beef during 1988.  Cow and non-fed steer and heifer slaughter are expected to 
decline again as we see efforts to start building the herd during the year. 

Fed cattle prices are likely to spend much of the year in the $60s, with 
feeder cattle carrying a $10 or larger premium to the fed cattle market.  
With that general picture in mind, I have been encouraging producers to get 
long hedges set on spring feeder cattle on price dips back to the low $70s.  
I continue to suggest that approach.  Later in the year, if and when the 
market offers excellent profits in fed cattle or in feeder cattle, I would be 
inclined to forward price and move away from facing all the price risk that 
comes with being a cash-market speculator. 

In hogs, the December Hogs and Pigs report will indicate that we will have 
about 10 percent more total hogs with the breeding herd up by 10 percent or 
more.  Given those levels, we can expect to see the per capita supplies of 
pork up significantly during 1988, and that will keep pressure on hog prices.  
Look for cash prices to range from the high $30s to the mid $40s, perhaps the 
high $40s, with the best prices to come in the June-August period.  In hogs, 
I would suggest that producers adopt a strategy of pricing when the cash flow 
and the financial position of the operation can be protected. 

Both beef and pork will be pressured by another significant increase in 
poultry production on top of huge increases in 1987. There are some signs 
that consumers' attitudes toward the red meats are improving, but the 
competition from poultry may keep us from seeing any increase in demand for 
beef and poultry.  And without improvement in demand, the record total meat 
supplies we expect to see in 1988 will keep the cattle and hog prices under 
pressure.  The best strategy is to get the livestock priced when decent 
prices are offered. 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Weekly Futures Review for January 1988 will be available on Friday,     
-DOC-



 


     Weekly Futures Review for January 1988 will be available on Friday,
                               January 8, 1988.



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SEPTEMBER HOGS AND PIGS REPORT                     
-DOC-
                     SEPTEMBER HOGS AND PIGS REPORT
                  Russell W. Sutton, Extension Ag Economist

     The big question now seems to be "How accurate are our 1987 numbers?"  
The USDA September Hogs and Pigs Report was close to pre-report estimates 
while the real news seemed to be the announcement that at least two previous 
Reports have/will be adjusted.  June 1987 numbers were decreased by 1.3 
percent for total inventory and near 1 percent for breeding.  If breeding 
numbers had not been revised for June, there would have been a decrease in 
breeding inventories from June to September.  Secondly, March 1987 
inventories and the December 1986 to February 1987 quarterly pig crop are 
targeted to be revised lower by 2.5 percent (probably during the December 
1987 Report). 

     This action to change report numbers is consistent with summer slaughter 
numbers and industry data.  Table 1 shows the FI weekly slaughter.  April to 
June numbers were some 9-13 percent below year earlier figures.  Recently, 
slaughter runs were greater than last year and, as of the last 3-4 weeks, 
numbers were beginning to come close to 1985 levels.  This trend is normal 
for the fall season whereas 1986 was different from most years. 


Table 1. U.S. Federally Inspected Hog Slaughter; Weekly USDA Data.

                                                 Pct Chg,1987vs
     Month      1985       1986       1987       1985     1986  

               -------- 1,000 head -------
      Jan      7,355      7,255      7,195      - 1 %    - 2 %
      Feb      7,805      7,651      7,385      - 3 %    - 5 %
      Mar      6,562      6,420      6,205      - 3 %    - 5 %
      Apr      6,530      6,421      5,943      - 7 %    - 9 %
      May      8,047      7,628      7,039      - 8 %    -13 %
      Jun      6,164      5,632      5,460      - 3 %    -11 %
      Jul      6,995      6,445      6,551      + 2 %    - 6 %
      Aug      6,212      5,509      5,737      + 4 %    - 8 %
      Sep      6,467      5,756      6,254      + 9 %    - 3 %
      Oct      1,644*     1,515*     1,674*     +10 %    + 2 %  
   
   * Only one week of data for October.
   Note:  Individual monthly data may vary from other sources.

                               
       
     The Report was initially termed as neutral by the trade, but all 
in all, it still showed less increase than earlier thought.  Table 2 
contains September inventories and revised June estimates.  As most of 
the press has talked about percent changes from last year, it should be 
kept in mind that these are comparisons against modern record lows.  
Although market numbers are 3 percent more than for 1985, breeding is 
still slightly below two years ago.















 Table 2.  USDA Ten State Hogs And Pigs Inventory; September 1987 and
           Revised June 1987.
       Category           1987      1986        1985     1986  1985
                         ------- 1,000 head ---------
   *** September 1:
  All Hogs And Pigs     42,825    39,535      41,320    +9 %  +4 %
  Kept For Breeding      5,295     4,840       5,377    +9 %  -1 %
  Market                37,530    34,745      36,443    +9 %  +3 %
     Under 60 Pounds    14,950    13,430      14,630    +9 %  +2 %
     60-119 Pounds       9,090     8,645       8,820    +8 %  +3 %
     120-179 Pounds      7,665     7,150       7,406    +9 %  +4 %
     180 Pounds And +    5,825     5,470       5,587    +8 %  +4 %
   *** June 1 (Revised):
   All Hogs And Pigs    40,580    37,845      41,650    +7 %  -3 %
   Kept For Breeding     5,290     4,840       5,397    +9 %  -2 %
   Market               35,290    33,005      36,253    +7 %  -3 %   
                                                        
   


               
              
     The quarterly farrowing data and intentions also showed only moderate 
increases.  The June-August pig crop was some 2 percent more than June second 
intentions (11 percent vs. 9 percent).  However, the September-November 
second intentions were 7 percent greater and the same as the June estimate.  
The December-February quarterly first intention was 8 percent over last year 
and lower than estimates before the Report. 
   
Table 3.  USDA Ten State Hogs And Pigs Report Farrowings And Intentions; 
          1987-1986 Reports.
                                                                           
                              Report Month              
     Quarter         September    June     March     December
	
   Mar-May(1987)                +8 %      +7 %**      +2 %*
   Jun-Aug(1987)     +11 %      +9 %**    +8 %*
   Sep-Nov(1987)     + 7 %**    +7 %*           
   Dec-Feb(1987-88)  + 8 %*         
   ______________________________________________________________      
   *First Intentions;  ** Second Intentions


                     
     Retail price levels are another important concern.  Retail prices 
reached record highs during the summer and many are watching to see what 
happens as the lower farm-level prices work through the system.  Since 
July, we have had a decrease in cash hog prices from around $62/cwt to 
near the $50 level.  

      Generally, feed price expectations are favorable for the much of 
the next year.  Herds are expanding but there are questions about how 
much.  For more than a year, industry and the futures market have been 
sending signals that a large amount of growth should be taking place -- 
this has not happened.  Based on distant futures prices, this is still 
expected for 1988.  Some growth will take place, but could expectations 
for this next year be a repeat of 1987?  If so, cash prices will likely 
stay above breakeven. 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOUTH CAROLINA WEEKLY WEATHER & CROP BULLETIN                 
-DOC-
                 SOUTH CAROLINA WEEKLY WEATHER & CROP BULLETIN
                      S.C. AGRICULTURAL STATISTICS SERVICE

  Week Ending November 29, 1987  (36)  Released 3:00 P.M., November 30, 1987

****************************************************************************** 
This  is  the  final  issue  of  the  South  Carolina "Weekly Weather and 
Crop Bulletin" for 1987.   We wish to express our appreciation to the County 
Exten-sion Chairmen for providing information on the local agricultural 
situation in the  respective  counties  and  Clemson  University/NOAA  who  
supplied weekly weather data.   We also wish to thank the news agencies,  
newspapers and radio and  television  stations  who  passed  the  information 
on to farmers and the general public.   Weekly publication will begin again 
in late  March.    HAPPY HOLIDAYS!! 
****************************************************************************** 
                                   GENERAL
Rains received over much of the State last week were quite  beneficial.    The
moisture  allowed for continued small grain planting as well as an aid in ger-
mination and growth.  However, soybean harvest was slowed in some areas.  Soil
moisture ratings continued to  improve  with  51  percent  short,  46  percent
adequate,  and 3 percent surplus.   There were an average of 4.5 days suitable
for fieldwork activities.

                                 FIELD CROPS

Last week's rains hampered soybean harvest,  but farmers still managed to have
78  percent of the crop out of the fields which is well ahead of normal.   The
condition of the remaining crop was rated at 1 percent very  poor,  5  percent
poor,  80 percent fair,  and 14 percent good.  Sorghum and sweetpotato harvest
showed very little progress due to the weather conditions.

                            FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

Pecan condition was rated at fair to good.


                          SMALL GRAINS AND PASTURES

Rainfall this past week aided germination and growth of small grains  and  al-
lowed continued planting progress in some areas.  Condition of all small grain
crops was rated at fair to good.  Statewide, the pasture condition improved to
fair to good.  Livestock were in fair to good condition.


                    SOUTH CAROLINA WEEKLY CROP STATISTICS
______________________________________________________________________________
                       WEEK ENDED     :                        WEEK ENDED
                       NOV. 29        :                        NOV. 29
                                 5 YR :                                  5 YR
  CROP    PHASE        1987 1986  AVE : CROP    PHASE          1987 1986  AVE
______________________________________________________________________________
                      ----Percent----                         ----Percent----

Winter Graz   Planted    95   95   94 : Oats         Planted     85   76   81
Winter Graz   Emerged    88   93   91 : Oats         Emerged     74   74   72
Soybeans      Harvested  78   52   53 : Rye          Planted     88   84   83
Barley        Planted    84   67   76 : Rye          Emerged     77   81   75
Barley        Emerged    74   63   67 : Wheat        Planted     68   52   47
Sorghum       Harvested  91   76   85 : Wheat        Emerged     52   53   56
Sweetpotato   Harvested  88   85   94 :
_____________________________________________________________________________
N/A=Not Available
McCager  Thompson - Agricultural Statistician and Henry J.  Power Jr.  - State
Statistician


                     Weather Summary for South Carolina        

The following report lists soil moisture conditions across the state of 
South Carolina during 1987.  The values represent percent of total field 
soil moisture capacity.  When soils are saturated, the field capacity is 
100 percent.  Most crops can experience drought stress when moisture levels 
fall below 65 percent of field capacity.  Generally, the field capacity 
represents moisture available to plants in the top 4 feet of soil.  The 
field capacity was computed for 7 regions across the state.  Some fields 
within each district will vary from the reported value due to scattered 
nature of summertime thunderstorms. 











  Week Ending  Mntns.  NW   NC   NE   WC   Cntrl  South  
  -----------  ------ ---  ---   ---  ---  -----  -----
  March  7      98    100   99    99  100   100    100
        21     100    100  100   100  100   100    100
  April  4     100    100  100   100  100   100    100
        18     100     97   99   100   99    95    100
  May    5      89    100   95    90   90    84     88
        16      75     82   76    68   79    72     75
        30      68     61   51    46   54    47     59
  June  13      52     47   46    47   44    43     50
        27     100     70   49    47   44    45     64
  July  11      83     58   43    37   30    35     46
        25      53     35   26    23   18    23     29
  August 8      73     43   20    19   26    32     20
        22      46     23   13    17   11    17     15
  Sept.  5      43     17   31    65    8    82    100
        19      58     19   83    77    8    82     84
  Oct.   3      50     16   70    72    7    70     73
        17      44     14   64    63    6    64     64
        31      41     17   76    72    8    77     66
  Nov.  14      62     28   79    77   11    78     71
        28      85     40   91    89   31    94     78    
The 1987 season began with adequate moisture virtually statewide.  By the 
end of August, however, isolated counties in the Northwest and West Central 
districts were experiencing moderate drought conditions.  This late season 
drought caused crop damage similar to the record-breaking 1986 drought in 
some locations.  Rains alleviated drought conditions in the Midlands and 
Coastal Plains in September.  Dryness intensified during October in the 
Upstate causing very poor harvest of fall hay.  Anderson, Abbeville and 
McCormick counties applied for disaster relief due to the drought.  By mid 
November, the winter rains had begun aiding small grains and raising soil 
moisture in the Upstate. 


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRICES RECEIVED BY SOUTH CAROLINA FARMERS UNCHANGED              
-DOC-
              PRICES RECEIVED BY SOUTH CAROLINA FARMERS UNCHANGED
                        PRICES RECEIVED BY U.S. FARMERS UP

Columbia, S.C., November 30, 1987: The Index of Prices Received by SOUTH 
                               CAROLINA farmers for items they  sell was  
unchanged from October 1987 to mid-November 1987,  according to the South 
Carolina Agricultural Statistics Service.  The index at 112 (1977 =  100)  
compared  with  112 last month,  111 in October 1986 and 113 in November 
1986. Prices received for all hogs  decreased  from  the  previous  month 
while corn, soybeans, and all eggs increased. 
     The  November  all farm products index of prices received by UNITED 
STATES farmers increased 3.1 percent from October to 131 percent of  its 
January-December  1977  average.    Higher prices for lettuce,  oranges, 
tomatoes,  corn,  and soybeans were partially offset by lower prices for hogs 
and cattle.  The index was 5.6 percent above a year ago. 
     The  price of lettuce was up sharply from a month earlier.   Prices for 
oranges and tomatoes also showed substantial gains.    The  all  hog price  
dropped  $8.10 per cwt.  from October to November.   This was the largest 
month to month decline since the  $9.20  drop  from  October  to November  
1975.    Corn  and  soybean prices moved up in November to the highest levels 
since June of this year. 

For additional information call:  Henry J.  Power,  Jr.,  State  Statis-
                                  tician
                                  Brenda   G.    Riggins,   Agricultural
                                  Statistician
                                  Office Telephone: 765-5333


$ 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
South Carolina Cotton Report                         
-DOC-
                         South Carolina Cotton Report
       Max I. Loyd and Charles E. Curtis, Jr. Extension Ag. Economists

Number 8                                                    November 26, 1987

    There was little change in the quality of S.C. cotton samples classed 
last week.  There was an increase in the percentage of low mic samples but 
season quality results are about unchanged.  This will be the last weekly 
report for this season.  A final report will be published by mid-January.	 

                                Market Summary

    Futures prices dropped sharply late last week but recovered about half 
the loss on Monday, November 23, with December '87 closing at 68.98 cents/lb.  
With the removal of the 2 cents/lb trading limit (during the delivery period) 
December posted a high for the day of 70.80 cents/lb.  This fulfilled our 
last week's expectation of both higher and lower prices -- in four trading 
days.  This is just another indication of how volatile the market remains.  
There was little news of any fundamental importance during those four days.  
Export sales continued active and domestic textile sales remained strong.  
However uncertainty in the financial markets continues to cloud the outlook.	 
	
    As noted last week, an "adequate" projected U.S. carryover, along with 
prospects for a large '88 crop will limit any major overall price advance.  
However continued strong export demand could push prices higher overall, with 
most of the impact on old crop prices.  What about next year's crop 
prospects?  Our best estimate for now is that U.S. acreage will be up about 
10 percent.  The lower set aside would imply an increase of about 15%, if 
program participation is similar to 1987.  However, the 1988 U.S. base 
acreage will be around 5 percent lower; due to the July '87, and upcoming 
February '88, sign-up in the Conservation Reserve Program (CRP).  These CRP 
acres will be relatively low-yield -- but so will much of the increase in '88 
permitted acres.  In a nut-shell, total U.S. '88 production isn't likely to 
be much above this year's level but could possibly range anywhere between 13-
15 million bales.  We'll give updates in the Clemson cotton letter and other 
publications as more information becomes available.	 








            COTTON CLASSED UNDER SMITH-DOXEY ACT (AS REPORTED BY
                  FLORENCE, SOUTH CAROLINA CLASSING OFFICE)
                        WEEK ENDING NOVEMBER 19, 1987
============================================================================
                                                  STATE TOTAL
                                  __________________________________________

                                            Last    Same Week    Total This
                                  Week      Week   Last Season     Season
==========================================================================
GRADE                           Percent    Percent   Percent       Percent

White
  31 MID & Above                    9         6         0              4
  40 SLM Plus                       0         *         0              *
  41 SLM                           24        25         6             24
  50 LM Plus                        0         *         0              1
  51 LM                             3         5         2              4
  60-61 SGO, SGO Plus               1         *         0              * 
  70-71 GO, GO Plus                 *         0         0              *


                                                  STATE TOTAL
                                  __________________________________________
                                            Last    Same Week    Total This
                                  Week      Week   Last Season     Season
==========================================================================
GRADE                           Percent    Percent   Percent       Percent
Light Spotted
  32 MID & Above                    2         2         0              2
  42 SLM                           33        36        55             43
  52 LM                            19        19        31             18 
  62 SGO                            2         3         2              1
Spotted (13-53)                     7         4         0              3

TG. & YS. (14-54 & 15-35)           0         0         0              0

Light Gray (26-46)                  0         0         0              *

Gray (17-47)                        0         0         0              0

Below Grade\1                       *         *         0              *
==========================================================================
Grass and Bark Reductions           7         8         5              4
                                                  STATE TOTAL
                                  __________________________________________
                                            Last    Same Week    Total This
                                  Week      Week   Last Season     Season
==========================================================================
GRADE                           Percent    Percent   Percent       Percent
===========================================================================
STAPLE LENGTH
  33 (1-1/32" & shorter)            5         4         0              4
  34 (1-1/16")                     23        20         5             16
  35 (1-3/32")                     43        45        40             49 
  36 (1-1/8" & longer)             29        31        55             31
  Average Staple                   35.0      35.1      35.5           35.1
MICRONAIRE
  3.4 & below                      10         3         1              2
  3.5 - 4.9                        81        90        90             92
  5.0 - 5.2                         6         6         7              5
  5.3 & Above                       3         1         2              1
  Average Mike                     43.5      44.8      45             44.3
STRENGTH - 1/8" Gauge\2            24.8      25.3      24.8           25.8
===========================================================================
NO. BALES CLASSED               4,219     4,646     7,651         90,868



\1 Samples lower in grade than the lowest grades of the official standards.
\2 Includes samples from North Carolina.
*Less than .5 percent.


State funds for this project were matched with federal funds under the 
matching fund program of the consumer and marketing service, U.S. Department 
of Agriculture as provided by the agricultural act of 1946. 


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CBT/CME WEEKLY FUTURES REVIEW	                        
-DOC-
                        CBT/CME WEEKLY FUTURES REVIEW	
                CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING NOVEMBER 26, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       11/20   11/23   11/24   11/25   11/26   11/28/86  
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          67.46   68.98   70.85   70.09     *      51.98
 DEC         CORN             1.87    1.87    1.87    1.89     *       1.69
 MAR         CORN             1.92    1.93    1.93    1.96     *       1.78
 DEC         WHEAT            2.97    3.03    3.05    3.01     *       2.92
 JULY        WHEAT            2.89    2.92    2.98    2.96     *       2.49
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.93    5.89    5.97    6.00     *       5.04
 NOV '88     SOYBEANS         5.86    5.85    5.90    5.89     *       5.02
 MAR         SOYMEAL        193.70  293.70  196.70  198.20     *     148.80
 FEB         HOGS            43.75   43.55   44.25   44.07     *      52.45
 JUNE        HOGS            42.65   42.30   42.57   42.65     *      48.47
 FEB         CATTLE          63.02   63.27   63.10   63.05     *      59.17
 APR         CATTLE          64.62   64.95   65.15   65.05     *      58.55
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   74.07   74.77   74.62   74.57     *      62.70

  

                CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING NOVEMBER 19, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       11/13   11/16   11/17   11/18   11/19   11/20/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          69.94   69.87   70.53   69.85   68.53    46.80
 DEC         CORN             1.83    1.83    1.86    1.85    1.86     1.69
 MAR         CORN             1.89    1.90    1.93    1.91    1.91     1.79
 DEC         WHEAT            2.86    2.87    2.93    2.96    2.93     2.83
 JULY        WHEAT            2.85    2.87    2.92    2.90    2.86     2.46
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.70    5.67    5.74    5.71    5.79     5.00
 NOV '88     SOYBEANS         5.71    5.70    5.78    5.75    5.77     4.96
 MAR         SOYMEAL        187.20  184.60  185.70  184.30  187.70   149.40
 FEB         HOGS            42.27   42.65   43.65   42.97   42.75    51.40
 JUNE        HOGS            42.12   42.30   42.67   42.25   42.25    47.62
 FEB         CATTLE          59.95   60.52   62.02   62.75   62.72    59.17
 APR         CATTLE          62.62   62.92   64.42   64.72   64.50    59.05
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   72.27   72.67   74.17   74.27   73.82    62.77
                                  

  

                CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING NOVEMBER 13, 1987


                                                                    YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       11/06   11/09   11/10   11/11   11/12  11/13/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          67.25   67.55   65.82   66.03   68.03    49.19
 DEC         CORN             1.80    1.80    1.82    1.82    1.81     1.72
 MAR         CORN             1.85    1.85    1.87    1.88    1.87     1.82
 DEC         WHEAT            2.86    2.85    2.87    2.89    2.90     2.82
 JULY        WHEAT            2.85    2.86    2.88    2.88    2.88     2.42
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.44    5.45    5.49    5.48    5.55     5.03
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.52    5.53    5.55    5.54    5.61     5.04
 MAR         SOYMEAL        173.50  177.50  179.30  179.20  182.40   150.80
 FEB         HOGS            42.37   42.37   43.00   42.65   42.12    49.65
 JUNE        HOGS            42.77   42.62   42.90   42.50   41.92    46.42
 FEB         CATTLE          61.05   60.77   61.10   60.67   60.62    58.27
 APR         CATTLE          63.80   63.30   63.32   63.22   63.07    58.67
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   73.92   73.45   73.75   73.47   73.30    62.82



  

                 CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING NOVEMBER 5, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       10/30   11/02   11/03   11/04   11/05   11/06/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          66.73   68.32   66.65   67.35   67.50    47.70
 DEC         CORN             1.80    1.78    1.76    1.77    1.80     1.73
 MAR         CORN             1.85    1.84    1.81    1.82    1.85     1.82
 DEC         WHEAT            2.97    2.88    2.82    2.84    2.86     2.87
 JULY        WHEAT            2.89    2.87    2.81    2.82    2.84     2.43
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.33    5.31    5.25    5.29    5.39     5.01
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.42    5.37    5.33    5.37    5.46     5.01
 MAR         SOYMEAL        170.00  168.40  267.10  168.10  171.70   149.90
 FEB         HOGS            41.65   40.87   41.27   41.25   42.15    49.37
 JUNE        HOGS            41.82   41.57   42.07   41.95   42.57    46.60
 FEB         CATTLE          60.45   58.95   59.67   59.75   60.02    57.17
 APR         CATTLE          62.52   61.02   61.70   62.35   62.77    57.65
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   72.15   70.65   71.42   71.95   72.52    61.27

  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CBT/CME WEEKLY FUTURES REVIEW	                        
-DOC-
                        CBT/CME WEEKLY FUTURES REVIEW	
                CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING DECEMBER 31, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       12/25   12/28   12/29   12/30   12/31   12/31/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 MAR         COTTON            *     69.60   68.52   67.80   66.76    59.28
 DEC '88     COTTON            *     65.25   64.70   64.65   63.97    57.75
 MAR         CORN              *      1.88    1.87    1.85    1.85     1.60
 SEPT        CORN              *      1.98    1.97    1.97    1.96     1.77
 MAR         WHEAT             *      3.08    3.09    3.09    3.11     2.75
 JULY        WHEAT             *      2.98    2.98    2.98    3.00     2.45
 JAN         SOYBEANS          *      5.93    6.00    6.03    6.07     4.91
 NOV         SOYBEANS          *      5.96    6.01    6.08    6.10     4.95
 MAR         SOYMEAL           *    188.70  191.90  191.90  192.60   144.40
 APR         HOGS              *     38.05   38.07   38.07   38.45    43.55
 JUNE        HOGS              *     41.57   41.62   41.97   42.00    45.62
 APR         CATTLE            *     64.57   64.77   65.62   65.42    56.15
 JUNE        CATTLE            *     64.75   64.80   65.65   65.50    55.55
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE     *     74.52   74.80   75.82   75.87    59.72

  
                CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING DECEMBER 24, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       12/18   12/21   12/22   12/23   12/24   12/29/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 MAR         COTTON          67.01   67.46   67.22   68.91   70.20    59.65
 DEC '88     COTTON          67.05   64.25   64.30   65.20   65.85    58.01
 MAR         CORN             1.86    1.86    1.89    1.90    1.90     1.61
 SEPT        CORN             1.98    1.97    2.00    2.00    1.99     1.79
 MAR         WHEAT            3.21    3.20    3.20    3.19    3.15     2.73
 JULY        WHEAT            3.01    3.01    3.01    3.03    3.02     2.44
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.93    6.02    5.99    6.08    6.04     4.88
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.91    5.99    5.98    6.04    6.04     4.91
 MAR         SOYMEAL        187.20  190.20  190.10  191.80  191.90   141.50
 APR         HOGS            38.90   39.00   38.05   38.47   38.45    43.70
 JUNE        HOGS            42.00   41.95   41.37   41.82   42.02    45.90
 APR         CATTLE          64.10   63.87   62.92   93.22   93.60    56.15
 JUNE        CATTLE          64.17   64.07   63.05   63.35   63.85    55.47
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   74.02   73.75   72.60   73.07   73.72    59.90




                CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING DECEMBER 17, 1987

                                                                    YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY      12/11    12/14   12/15   12/16   12/17  12/18/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 MAR         COTTON          65.23   63.35   63.88   65.88   67.70    56.92
 DEC '88     COTTON          62.15   61.40   61.85   63.72   64.10    57.21
 MAR         CORN             1.93    1.92    1.89    1.86    1.88     1.64
 SEPT        CORN             1.98    1.99    1.96    1.95    1.96     1.78
 MAR         WHEAT            3.14    3.17    3.14    3.11    3.15     2.72
 JULY        WHEAT            2.97    2.98    2.95    2.94    2.97     2.42
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.90    5.89    5.84    5.81    5.89     4.85
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.85    5.87    5.84    5.82    5.84     4.86
 MAR         SOYMEAL        192.20  192.10  188.60  185.30  187.70   141.40
 APR         HOGS            38.77   39.62   38.80   38.72   38.87    45.27
 JUNE        HOGS            41.77   42.25   41.77   41.65   41.75    47.17
 APR         CATTLE          63.87   64.67   64.45   64.22   64.77    56.25
 JUNE        CATTLE          64.10   64.72   64.45   64.20   64.62    55.70
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   73.75   74.35   73.87   73.65   74.62    60.72

  


                CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING DECEMBER 10, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       12/04   12/07   12/08   12/09   12/10   12/11/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 MAR         COTTON          64.90   62.92   65.87   65.65   65.63    56.55
 DEC '88     COTTON          62.13   61.85   62.57   62.80   62.65    57.75
 MAR         CORN             1.91    1.92    1.91    1.93    1.94     1.68
 SEPT        CORN             1.98    1.99    1.98    1.99    1.98     1.79
 MAR         WHEAT            3.17    3.15    3.13    3.13    3.12     2.76
 JULY        WHEAT            3.04    3.01    2.97    2.97    2.96     2.45
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.87    5.90    5.87    5.91    5.99     4.89
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.70    5.67    5.69    5.72    5.79     4.89
 MAR         SOYMEAL        191.70  191.20  189.20  192.30  196.20   144.50
 APR         HOGS            37.45   37.77   38.30   38.37   38.82    46.65
 JUNE        HOGS            40.57   40.85   41.52   41.57   41.82    48.47
 APR         CATTLE          61.92   62.55   62.00   63.02   63.75    57.15
 JUNE        CATTLE          62.07   62.85   62.60   63.57   64.12    56.52
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   71.55   71.92   71.75   72.72   74.12    61.25




                 CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING DECEMBER 3, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       11/27   11/30   12/01   12/02   12/03   12/4/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 MAR         COTTON          71.62   69.62   67.67   68.06   66.06    54.72
 DEC '88     COTTON          64.60   62.99   62.70   63.70   62.45    56.65
 MAR         CORN             1.97    1.97    1.95    1.93    1.94     1.72
 SEPT        CORN             2.04    2.03    2.02    1.98    1.99     1.82
 MAR         WHEAT            3.14    3.18    3.19    3.18    3.18     2.84
 JULY        WHEAT            2.98    3.01    3.05    3.06    3.06     2.49
 JAN         SOYBEANS         6.11    6.05    6.13    6.01    6.01     4.97
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.94    5.85    5.87    5.83    5.79     5.00
 MAR         SOYMEAL        202.20  200.20  203.70  196.60  197.20   146.50
 APR         HOGS            39.90   38.70   38.82   38.87   37.55    46.60
 JUNE        HOGS            42.70   41.85   41.77   41.65   40.52    48.40
 APR         CATTLE          65.17   63.67   63.72   63.80   62.30    57.17
 JUNE        CATTLE          65.27   63.77   64.00   64.15   62.65    56.52
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   75.37   73.87   73.00   73.47   71.97    61.67

  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CBT/CME WEEKLY FUTURES REVIEW	                        
-DOC-
                        CBT/CME WEEKLY FUTURES REVIEW	
                 CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING AUGUST 27, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       08/21   08/24   08/25   08/26   08/27  08/28/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          79.02   78.43   77.78   79.78   79.82    36.18
 SEPT        CORN             1.59    1.58    1.58    1.62    1.63     1.55
 DEC         CORN             1.69    1.68    1.68    1.71    1.72     1.65
 SEPT        WHEAT            2.74    2.74    2.76    2.78    2.79     2.54
 SEPT        SOYBEANS         5.16    5.13    5.14    5.15    5.15     4.76
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.11    5.09    5.10    5.13    5.14     4.78
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.16    5.14    5.16    5.18    5.20     4.79
 DEC         SOYMEAL        155.10  153.70  154.00  155.60  156.40   148.30
 DEC         HOGS            48.45   48.97   48.47   48.47   48.62    55.22
 JUNE        HOGS            44.57   44.70   44.70   44.72   44.72    48.40
 DEC         CATTLE          66.12   66.45   66.22   66.85   66.72    58.87
 FEB         CATTLE          65.75   66.02   66.15   66.80   66.85    57.97
 OCT         FEEDER CATTLE   76.40   76.97   76.80   77.55   77.60    63.82
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   76.75   77.25   77.50   78.45   78.45    64.25

  
                 CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING AUGUST 21, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       08/14   08/17   08/18   08/19   08/20   08/21/87
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          78.60   79.23   78.76   79.35   79.66    34.12
 SEPT        CORN             1.59    1.57    1.56    1.61    1.59     1.60
 DEC         CORN             1.69    1.68    1.66    1.71    1.69     1.70
 SEPT        WHEAT            2.70    2.72    2.71    2.74    2.70     2.52
 SEPT        SOYBEANS         5.06    5.09    5.08    5.12    5.10     4.83
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.02    5.04    5.03    5.09    5.08     4.71
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.02    5.10    5.10    5.16    5.14     4.79
 DEC         SOYMEAL        154.60  154.60  154.20  155.40  154.60   148.20
 DEC         HOGS            47.30   45.47   47.20   48.37   48.62    54.77
 JUNE        HOGS            44.40   44.02   44.20   44.47   44.65    47.90
 DEC         CATTLE          66.05   66.30   65.35   65.32   65.27    57.65
 FEB         CATTLE          65.87   66.22   65.37   65.37   65.15    56.95
 OCT         FEEDER CATTLE   75.92   76.72   75.45   75.75   75.52    63.32
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   76.45   77.25   76.00   76.27   75.90    63.85

  


                 CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING  AUGUST 13, 1987

                                                                    YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       08/07   08/10   08/11   08/12   08/13   08/14/87
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          76.10   75.15   75.37   77.37   79.22    34.67
 SEPT        CORN             1.53    1.53    1.54    1.53    1.55     1.67
 DEC         CORN             1.64    1.65    1.66    1.64    1.65     1.73
 SEPT        WHEAT            2.58    2.63    2.68    2.69    2.67     2.59
 SEPT        SOYBEANS         5.01    5.01    5.04    5.04    5.01     4.82
 NOV         SOYBEANS         4.96    4.97    5.01    4.98    4.99     4.76
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.03    5.04    5.07    5.03    5.04     4.85
 DEC         SOYMEAL        150.60  151.50  152.10  152.60  153.40   147.30
 DEC         HOGS            46.55   47.55   46.67   47.67   47.07    52.75
 JUNE        HOGS            43.85   43.86   43.80   44.15   44.10    46.90
 DEC         CATTLE          65.70   65.55   65.70   66.35   66.20    57.60
 FEB         CATTLE          65.52   65.27   65.27   65.87   65.80    56.62
 OCT         FEEDER CATTLE   75.17   75.10   78.07   75.92   75.90    63.05
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   76.00   75.70   75.65   76.65   76.67    63.55

  


                 CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING  AUGUST 6, 1987

                                                                    YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       07/31   08/03   08/04   08/05   08/06  08/07/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          77.25   77.66   76.30   77.13   77.30    31.83
 SEPT        CORN             1.64    1.61    1.56    1.56    1.55     1.62
 DEC         CORN             1.74    1.71    1.66    1.67    1.65     1.69
 SEPT        WHEAT            2.61    2.63    2.62    2.61    2.59     2.62
 SEPT        SOYBEANS         5.25    5.09    5.02    5.05    5.00     4.76
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.26    5.11    5.07    5.05    5.01     4.75
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.33    5.20    5.09    5.12    5.07     4.85
 DEC         SOYMEAL        159.50  152.30  150.40  151.10  151.30   143.90   
 DEC         HOGS            47.65   47.05   46.67   46.62   46.65    52.67   
 JUNE        HOGS            44.55   44.50   44.20   43.90   44.00    46.85
 DEC         CATTLE          64.35   64.27   64.57   64.65   64.72    58.62
 FEB         CATTLE          64.15   63.82   64.05   64.42   64.80    57.02
 OCT         FEEDER CATTLE   72.97   72.92   73.00   73.57   74.30    63.22
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   73.50   73.75   73.62   74.50   75.00    64.00

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CBT/CME WEEKLY FUTURES REVIEW	                        
-DOC-
                        CBT/CME WEEKLY FUTURES REVIEW	
                 CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING OCTOBER 1, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       09/25   09/28   09/29   09/30   10/01   01/02/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          73.82   71.82   71.37   71.91   71.12    47.07
 DEC         CORN             1.76    1.80    1.82    1.80    1.84     1.73
 MAR         CORN             1.85    1.89    1.91    1.88    1.93     1.84
 DEC         WHEAT            2.95    2.91    2.92    2.89    2.99     2.74
 JULY        WHEAT            2.76    2.74    2.76    2.75    2.83     2.42
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.22    5.26    5.31    5.32    5.45     4.87
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.29    5.33    5.37    5.38    5.51     5.03
 DEC         SOYMEAL        164.30  165.10  167.60  169.40  174.70   152.40
 DEC         HOGS            46.35   45.02   45.20   45.27   46.62    50.75
 JUNE        HOGS            43.42   42.97   43.15   43.30   44.15    47.22
 DEC         CATTLE          69.47   68.27   67.95   66.60   66.80    55.12
 FEB         CATTLE          68.55   67.45   67.15   65.90   66.37    54.50
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   79.40   79.17   78.57   77.70   77.77    60.00

  

                CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING SEPTEMBER 24, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       09/18   09/21   09/22   09/23   09/24   09/25/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          75.25   74.73   73.45   75.45   74.82    43.85
 DEC         CORN             1.81    1.78    1.76    1.77    1.75     1.70
 DEC         WHEAT            2.98    3.00    2.97    2.93    2.93     2.61
 JULY        WHEAT            2.81    2.82    2.80    2.77    2.75     2.35
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.33    5.30    5.27    5.29    5.25     4.81
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.38    5.36    5.33    5.36    5.32     4.89
 DEC         SOYMEAL        170.60  168.50  165.90  169.00  165.30   150.10
 DEC         HOGS            46.87   46.87   46.55   46.50   46.72    51.57
 JUNE        HOGS            43.70   43.95   43.55   43.55   43.55    48.92
 DEC         CATTLE          68.22   69.37   68.90   69.12   68.97    56.47
 FEB         CATTLE          68.02   68.65   68.30   68.57   68.27    56.05
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   78.52   79.92   79.57   79.60   79.40    62.20






                CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING SEPTEMBER 17, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO 
 MONTH       COMMODITY       09/11   09/14   09/15   09/16   09/17   09/18/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          75.04   74.52   73.62   75.62   74.75    43.10 
 DEC         CORN             1.74    1.77    1.77    1.80    1.81     1.65 
 DEC         WHEAT            2.95    2.98    2.95    2.98    2.96     2.59 
 JULY        WHEAT            2.82    2.83    2.83    2.85    2.83     2.31 
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.29    5.33    5.27    5.35    5.33     4.82
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.35    5.39    5.34    5.41    5.39     4.90 
 DEC         SOYMEAL        167.90  169.60  167.50  170.70  170.60   153.10 
 DEC         HOGS            46.90   45.85   46.52   46.25   45.55    55.77 
 JUNE        HOGS            44.32   43.60   43.95   43.80   43.27    50.45 
 DEC         CATTLE          68.55   67.90   68.37   66.90   66.72    58.47 
 FEB         CATTLE          68.37   68.02   68.17   66.80   66.52    57.12 
 OCT         FEEDER CATTLE   79.42   78.85   78.72   77.22   77.27    63.05 
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   78.70   77.85   77.90   76.50   77.02    63.10 

  



                CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING SEPTEMBER 10, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       09/04   09/07   09/08   09/09   09/10   09/11/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          75.84     *     73.84   72.65   73.04    40.58
 SEPT        CORN             1.58     *      1.61    1.63    1.66     1.53
 DEC         CORN             1.68     *      1.72    1.74    1.75     1.63
 JULY '88    WHEAT            2.72     *      2.78    2.82    2.85     2.32
 SEPT        SOYBEANS         5.19     *      5.22    5.20    5.24     4.80
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.16     *      5.21    5.20    5.25     4.78
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.21     *      5.27    5.26    5.31     4.84
 DEC         SOYMEAL        160.80     *    163.50  162.20  165.60   149.90
 DEC         HOGS            49.50     *     48.85   48.92   47.72    57.05
 JUNE        HOGS            45.25     *     45.15   45.00   44.85    51.67
 DEC         CATTLE          68.27     *     68.80   68.72   68.47    57.62
 FEB         CATTLE          79.50     *     68.75   68.52   68.30    57.45
 OCT         FEEDER CATTLE   79.50     *     79.92   80.10   79.32    63.97
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   79.50     *     79.70   79.77   79.07    63.29
         *Markets Closed for Labor Day



                CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING SEPTEMBER 3, 1987

                                                                    YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       08/28   08/31   09/01   09/02   09/03  09/04/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          77.82   76.70   76.88   75.01   75.39    37.78
 SEPT        CORN             1.61    1.59    1.57    1.59    1.57     1.50
 DEC         CORN             1.69    1.67    1.65    1.68    1.67     1.63
 SEPT        WHEAT            2.77    2.74    2.76    2.78    2.75     2.67
 JULY        WHEAT            2.77    2.73    2.72    2.73    2.73     2.42
 SEPT        SOYBEANS         5.11    5.08    5.08    5.12    5.13     4.86
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.07    5.04    5.04    5.11    5.12     4.77
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.14    5.10    5.11    5.17    5.18     4.86
 DEC         SOYMEAL        155.40  153.90  154.90  157.60  158.60   152.70
 DEC         HOGS            48.32   48.70   49.17   49.20   49.62    57.20
 JUNE        HOGS            44.40   44.70   44.90   45.00   45.05    51.72
 DEC         CATTLE          66.20   67.05   66.62   67.27   67.67    59.87
 FEB         CATTLE          66.65   67.40   67.12   67.70   67.95    58.57
 OCT         FEEDER CATTLE   77.32   78.35   78.40   78.72   79.12    58.57
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   77.95   78.92   78.65   78.97    78.90   64.65
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CBT/CME WEEKLY FUTURES REVIEW	                        
-DOC-
                        CBT/CME WEEKLY FUTURES REVIEW	
                 CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING OCTOBER 29, 1987

                                                                    YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       10/23   10/26   10/27   10/28   10/29  10/30/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          64.83   62.08   62.23   64.21   64.73    47.38
 DEC         CORN             1.80    1.80    1.82    1.81    1.81     1.75
 MAR         CORN             1.87    1.86    1.87    1.86    1.86     1.83
 DEC         WHEAT            3.00    2.96    2.97    2.96    2.96     2.91
 JULY        WHEAT            2.94    2.91    2.91    2.88    2.89     2.46
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.40    5.38    5.39    5.36    5.32     4.97
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.49    5.47    5.48    5.46    5.41     5.03
 JAN         SOYMEAL        174.50  175.40  176.10  175.40  174.80   149.60
 FEB         HOGS            42.87   41.37   41.75   41.87   41.97    56.95
 JUNE        HOGS            42.45   41.45   41.85   41.87   41.97    48.17
 FEB         CATTLE          62.50   61.00   60.02   60.62   61.02    56.95
 APR         CATTLE          63.47   61.97   61.17   61.92   62.60    57.40
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   73.37   71.87   70.40   71.35   72.10    61.40

  

                 CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING OCTOBER 22, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       10/16   10/19   10/20   10/21   10/22   10/23/86
 -----       ---------       ----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          68.19   66.19   65.54   66.97   65.75    47.75
 DEC         CORN             1.85    1.79    1.84    1.83    1.82     1.73
 MAR         CORN             1.93    1.86    1.92    1.90    1.87     1.83
 DEC         WHEAT            3.06    2.95    2.97    3.02    3.02     2.90
 JULY        WHEAT            2.98    2.89    2.91    2.97    2.96     2.44
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.44    5.24    5.35    5.35    5.37     4.88
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.33    5.35    5.43    5.45    5.45     4.94
 JAN         SOYMEAL        169.80  165.70  173.50  173.50  171.90   150.50
 FEB         HOGS            44.20   43.17   42.55   43.00   42.42    49.22
 JUNE        HOGS            44.12   43.30   42.50   42.92   42.40    47.15
 FEB         CATTLE          66.30   64.80   63.30   63.27   61.77    55.90
 APR         CATTLE          67.62   66.12   64.80   64.65   63.15    56.72
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   78.22   76.72   75.22   74.67   73.17    60.50




  
                 CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING OCTOBER 15, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       10/09   10/12   10/13   10/14   10/15   10/16/86
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          69.90   69.08   68.75   69.38   69.14    46.72
 DEC         CORN             1.83    1.82    1.85    1.87    1.88     1.63
 MAR         CORN             1.92    1.90    1.94    1.96    1.96     1.75
 DEC         WHEAT            3.03    3.08    3.10    3.12    3.09     2.75
 JULY        WHEAT            2.88    2.94    2.95    2.99    2.99     2.41
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.40    5.36    5.41    5.46    5.43     4.77
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.48    5.43    5.49    5.54    5.53     4.85
 JAN         SOYMEAL        167.70  166.70  168.20  170.10  170.30   146.50
 FEB         HOGS            45.00   45.22   45.35   44.80   44.42    50.75
 JUNE        HOGS            44.15   44.12   44.37   44.02   43.85    48.50
 FEB         CATTLE          66.12   67.02   67.15   66.42   66.67    56.35
 APR         CATTLE          67.25   68.00   68.05   67.52   67.92    57.12
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   77.30   78.00   78.25   77.77   78.30    61.35

  



                 CLOSING PRICES--WEEK ENDING OCTOBER 8, 1987

                                                                     YR. AGO
 MONTH       COMMODITY       10/02   10/05   01/06   10/07   10/08   10/09/86  
 -----       ---------       -----   -----   -----   -----   -----   -------
 DEC         COTTON          71.75   71.04   70.66   70.98   70.85    45.95
 DEC         CORN             1.85    1.85    1.83    1.83    1.84     1.65
 MAR         CORN             1.93    1.93    1.91    1.92    1.93     1.77
 DEC         WHEAT            3.00    2.99    2.96    2.97    3.04     2.74
 JULY        WHEAT            2.83    2.86    2.86    2.86    2.89     2.40
 NOV         SOYBEANS         5.41    5.40    5.38    5.43    5.43     4.72
 JAN         SOYBEANS         5.48    5.47    5.44    5.50    5.51     4.80
 JAN         SOYMEAL        170.20  169.90  169.60  169.60  169.50   149.60
 FEB         HOGS            44.02   44.27   44.85   45.27   44.95    49.67
 JUNE        HOGS            43.87   43.85   44.16   44.30   44.30    47.97
 FEB         CATTLE          65.92   65.12   65.77   64.97   65.35    55.85
 APR         CATTLE          67.52   66.85   67.07   66.47   66.60    56.95
 MAR         FEEDER CATTLE   76.90   76.60   76.37   75.55   76.02    61.70 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FARMERS AND THE TAX REFORM ACT OF 1986	              
-DOC-
             FARMERS AND THE TAX REFORM ACT OF 1986	 
                     Al Tinsley, Extension Ag. Economics
	
SOME THINGS TO DO:
     	
     Most of the provisions of the Tax Reform Act of 1986 are now in effect.  
Following are some suggestions to help comply with the law and improve tax 
planning.	

1.  Continue separating income from capital items such as timber, breeding 
stock, dairy animals, machinery and land.  Even though the 60% exclusion for 
these items (except for dairy cows sold under the Dairy Herd Termination 
Program) is gone, these items should still be reported as capital items on 
forms 4797 and Schedule D, rather than on the farm schedule form 1040F.  They 
are still capital items and the 12.3% self-employment tax is not due on these 
items.	 
     	
2.  Keep records of the amounts paid for family health insurance.  A business 
deduction of up to 25% of the health insurance for self-employed individuals, 
including spouse and dependents, is available, providing the 25% percent 
doesn't exceed net earnings from self-employment.  The other 75% of the 
health insurance costs may be counted as an itemized deduction on Schedule A.  	
3.  Check on social security numbers for any of your children five years of 
age and older.  If they don't have a social security number, apply for a 
number through  your local social security office.  A taxpayer claiming a 
dependent who is 5 years or older must report the taxpayer identification 
number for the dependent on 1987 returns.  
     	
4.  Keep in mind that 1987 deductions based on pre-paid 1988 expenses 
such as feed, fertilizer, seed and chemicals will be limited to 50 percent of 
the expenses reported on Schedule F that were actually "used" in 1987. The 
Schedule F expenses include depreciation and interest as well as the usual 
"ordinary" expenses.		 











BE CAREFUL OF THE FOLLOWING:	 
     	
1.  Soil and water conservation expenses are not deductible for draining 
or filling wetlands, or preparing land for installation or operation of a 
center pivot irrigation system.  Furthermore, for soil and water conservation 
expenses to be deductible in 1987, the activity must be consistent with a 
conservation plan approved by the Soil Conservation Service, U.S. Department 
of Agriculture, or in the absence of such a plan, a plan of a comparable South 
Carolina conservation agency.  		
	
2.  Keep in mind that depreciation on purchased capital items under the 
new tax law could be less than in prior years.  For one thing, depreciation 
life on most items has been lengthened.  Also, there are new rules that cause 
depreciation to be reduced when more than 40% of all property purchased by the 
taxpayer is purchased DURING THE LAST 3 MONTHS OF THE TAXABLE YEAR.  Under 
prior law, taxpayers purchasing depreciable items on the last day of the year 
usually got substantial depreciation write-offs.  This is no longer true, so 
it is important that farmers having a good year in 1987 anticipate needed 
investments before the end of the third quarter of the year. 	



     There is one source of help available to farmers who have a good year in 
1987.  For eligible capital items, it is possible to "expense" or simply 
write-off up to $10,000 of their cost no matter which date they were 
purchased.  Examples of eligible items include machinery, breeding and dairy 
livestock, single purpose agricultural structures and the farm share of the 
auto or truck.  This "expensing" amount has increased under the new tax law 
from $5,000 to $10,000.  			
     	
OTHER CONCERNS:
     	
1.  Keep in mind that the new tax law requires that the "pre-productive" 
expenses for raising replacement breeding stock and establishing new orchards 
are not deductible as current expenses.  As an alternative to keeping records 
of these costs, farmers will likely use a figure provided by the Treasury 
Department and deduct that amount from Schedule F expenses.  Another 
alternative is to continue to deduct pre-productive expenses and use what is 
called an "alternative depreciation system" for all depreciable items 
purchased in 1987.  An important decision between these alternatives can be 
made by farmers and their tax advisors at year-end.  Also, there will be 
another year-end decision concerning the use of any investment credit carried 
over from previous years.  	
     	
2.  You will need to keep better records in 1987 and to get to your tax 
advisor early in order to make plans that can save tax dollars.  There are 
several factors that may cause your taxes to go up in 1987 and most people 
don't like surprises.  Some of the things that would most likely increase your 
taxes include the loss of investment credit, the loss of income averaging, the 
repeal of the two-earner 10% deduction when both spouses work, the loss of 
sales taxes as an itemized deduction, and the partial loss of consumer 
interest as an itemized deduction.  Start now with a goal of trying to 
estimate what your 1987 taxes will be, before the beginning of the last 
quarter of 1987.  Many farmers are paying more taxes now because, during 
financial distress, they have not been able to purchase and depreciate new 
equipment and buildings.  Many have used fast write-off depreciation methods 
earlier and have little depreciation left to offset farm income.	 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SAFETY MESSAGE OF THE WEEK	                           
-DOC-
                           SAFETY MESSAGE OF THE WEEK	
                       Jack W. Davis, Safety Specialist	

                                      XX-ROPS-XX	
    XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX            X	
    X                    X            X      /             X	
    X       SAFETY       X            X     /X             X	
    X                    X            XXXXX   XX            X	
    X      MESSAGES      X           X     XXXXXXXX-SAVE-XXXXXXXXX	
    X                    X          X       X                    X	
    XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX__________X       XXXXXXX-LIVES-XXXXXXXX	
    /\                  /\           X     X                  /\ 	
    \/                  \/            XXXXX                   \/ 	
	
In an effort to promote safety in agriculture, I will be supplying two safety 
messages each week.  These 30-second messages are written for use in weekly 
radio programs, but could be easily incorporated into a newspaper article.	 
	
The messages will coincide with current farming events that are happening in 
South Carolina.  I hope you will use these messages on a regular basis and let 
your listeners know that you are interested in their safety and well-being.	 
                        DECEMBER WEEK 2 SAFETY MESSAGES	
	
I RECEIVED SEVERAL MESSAGES THAT ARE APPPROPRIATE FOR USE BEFORE CHRISTMAS FROM 
ONE OF MY 4-HERS IN THE SAFETY PROJECT.  I WISH TO THANK DEANNA SPALDING FROM 
PICKENS COUNTY FOR THESE MESSAGES.  I HOPE YOU CAN USE THEM.	
	
                                   MESSAGE 1	
	
                                CHRISTMAS TREES	
	
This is the time of the year that people are thinking about placing a christmas 
tree in their homes and decorating it.  The following are some helpful hint 
about Christmas Trees:	
       1.  Select a fresh tree	
           a.  A fresh tree is green	
           b.  Needles are hard to pull from the branches	
           c.  When bent between your fingers, fresh needles don't break	
           d.  The cut end of the tree will be thick with resign	
           e.  When the trunk of the tree is bounced on the ground, if a 	
               shower of falling needles happen, the tree is too dry	
       2.  When you get the tree home, you should cut the trunk at an angle 	
           about 2 inches above where the tree is cut in the woods	
	
       3.  Then place the tree in a bucket of wet sand, dirt or tree holder	
	
       4.  A medium size tree will drink a half pint of water a day	
	
       5.  Be sure to water the tree every day	
	
       6.  Decide where you want the tree	
	
       7.  Do not place the tree close to:	
           a.  A fireplace	
           b.  A radiator	
           c.  A stove	
           d.  A television	
           e.  Any other heat sources	
	
       8.  Make sure the tree is out ot the way of traffic	
	
       9.  Tie your tree to something to secure it form falling	
                                   MESSAGE 2	
	
                               CHRISTMAS LIGHTING	
	
When using lights make sure you check all wires for safety purposes.	
	
	      1.  Check lights for broken sockets	
       2.  Check for loose wires	
       3.  Check for loose connections	
       4.  Don't use damaged sets of lights	
       5.  Don't leave loose wires on the floor	
       6.  Don't use more than 3 sets of lights to one extension cord	
       7.  Turn off all lights when leaving or going to bed	
	
                                   MESSAGE 3	
	
                      HELPFUL HINTS FOR CHRISTMAS TRIMMING	
	
       1.  Never put candles around evergreen	
       2.  Put candles in flameproof holders	
       3.  Never place candles in reach of children	
       4.  Never place trimming near fireplace	
                        DECEMBER WEEK 1 SAFETY MESSAGES	
	
                                   MESSAGE 1	
	
                               AGRICULTURE FALLS	
	
Every year many people are injured and killed when they fall from tractors and 
wagons.  These accidents can be prevented.  Put no rider stickers on your 
tractors and stand by that rule.  The only time riders should be allowed is 
when instruction on machine operation is given.	
	
Children may plead for rides but don't give in.  They are involved in too many 
of these accidents.	
	
For more information on agriculture safety, see your County Extension Agent.	
                                   MESSAGE 2	
	
                        PEOPLE, MACHINE, AND ENVIRONMENT	
	
People, machines, and the work environment all contribute to farm accidents.  
Of the three, people are most often responsible.  Human failure is certainly to 
blame when a foolish action like falling asleep at the wheel lands a tractor 
upside down in a ditch.  Many examples can be stated that point out human 
failure.  These failures too often send people to the hospital.	
                        NOVEMBER WEEK 4 SAFETY MESSAGES	
	
                                   MESSAGE 1	
	
                               AUTOMATIC DEVICES	
	
Automated machinery has truly revolutionized agriculture.	
	
Some of these automatic devices have also injured and killed people when they  
came on automatically.  A person was injured while cleaning a grain dryer when 
it automatically turned on.  Another person was killed in a grain bin when the 
automatic unloader started working.	
	
If you are going to work on some automatic equipment, be sure to disconnect 
all power to prevent it from coming on.	
                                   MESSAGE 2	
	
                              MACHINE MAINTENANCE	
	
Machines that are properly maintained are usually safer than unkept machines.  
Some reasons for this are unkept machines usually break down which causes 
frustration and exhaustion which can cause a farmer to become careless 
resulting in an accident.  All machinery is destined to break down, proper 
maintenance can delay this problem.  If your machine does break down, take it 
easy.  Worse things could happen.  You could be involved in an accident.	
                        NOVEMBER WEEK 3 SAFETY MESSAGES	
	
                                   MESSAGE 1	
	
                        FARM SAFETY IS A FAMILY PROJECT	
	
If the husband in a farm family is injured, the whole family suffers both 
mentally and financially.  Therefore, to prevent this suffering, the whole 
family has to work for safety on the farm.  When farm safety is tackled as a 
family project, giving each other positive reinforcement not negative, the 
chances of an accident on your farm will decrease.	
	
I hope you will make this effort.	
                                   MESSAGE 2	
	
                                 SOWS AND BOARS	
	
Boars and sows can be especially dangerous through biting and slashing teeth.  
Some overly aggressive sows and boars should be culled.  They truly aren't 
worth having around if they are a threat to your well being.	
	
Feeder hogs may be dangerous to individuals unable to withstand their pushing 
and shoving.  Once an individual is down and helpless, they can do severe 
damage very quickly.	
	
If you are in the hog business, take proper safety precautions around your 
hogs.	
                        NOVEMBER WEEK 2 SAFETY MESSAGES	
	
                                   MESSAGE 1	
	
                                   FUEL FIRES	
	
Fires are always a hazard when refueling farm equipment.	
	
You can decrease that hazard by allowing the implement to cool for a few 
minutes before refueling.  Extinguish all smoking materials, be careful not to 
overfill the tank, if spills do occur, allow them to evaporate before starting 
the engine.  To be safe, have a Class ABC fire extinguisher near the refueling 
station.	
                                   MESSAGE 2	
	
                               AGRICULTURE FALLS	
	
Every year many people are injured and killed when they fall from tractors and 
wagons.  These accidents can be prevented.  Put no rider stickers on your 
tractors and stand by that rule.  The only time riders should be allowed is 
when instruction on machine operation is given.	
	
Children may plead for rides but don't give in.  They are involved in too many 
of these accidents.	
                        NOVEMBER WEEK 1 SAFETY MESSAGES	
	
                                   MESSAGE 1	
	
                                  DRESS SAFELY	
	
Many people have been injured or killed when the clothing they were wearing was 
caught in a machine.  Floppy jeans such as bell bottoms have been caught in 
grain augers and in power take-off (PTO) shafts.  Hooded sweatshirts have been 
caught by the beaters of ensilage wagons and wrapped around turning shafts.	
	
To prevent being yanked in a piece of machinery, dress safely in snug-fitting 
clothing.	
	
                                   MESSAGE 2	
	
                                     NOISE	
	
Sound can be useful and pleasing, or it can be unpleasant, irritating and 
damaging to one's health.  Farm noises, particularly those of tractors, 
combines, and chainsaws are damaging to the hearing of the people who use them.  
Wearing ear plugs can prevent this damage and prolong your hearing ability.	





-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TYPICAL  IRRIGATION  SYSTEMS  LAYOUT  AND  COST  ANALYSIS                
-DOC-
          TYPICAL  IRRIGATION  SYSTEMS  LAYOUT  AND  COST  ANALYSIS      
                C.V. Privette Extension Agricultural Engineer 

Illustrations of drip, center pivot, traveling gun and solid set irrigation 
systems are shown on the next eight pages with a typical cost analysis.  The 
layout diagrams show the basic components which are required for installing an
irrigation system.  The cost analysis gives an estimate of the cost one could
expect on a per acre basics for the four different systems.  The variables 
cost covers the cost of the fuel, oil, repairs on the power unit, repairs on 
the irrigation equipment and the labor cost for operating the system.  The 
annual fixed cost covers the depreciation, interest, taxes, and insurance over
the depreciable life of the system.  Total annual cost are calculated at a per
acre rate so that the various systems can be compared.

Each county Extension office has a spread sheet which will calculate the same
cost and give a similar analysis for your individual costs.  The spread sheet 
"Irrigation Cost Analysis" makes it easy to look at several options one  might 
have in deciding what system is the least expensive to own and operate.

The water supply for the drip system was a small well (4-inch), water supply 
for the center pivot was an enlarged pond, for the traveling gun a dug canal
from a stream and for the solid set system an enlarged pit.
                             DRIP SYSTEM LAYOUT                                

  Submain (header)         Pressure                  Check Valve              
    |                      Regulator  Filter         Backflow Prevention       
    |                  ___/         _/_ _           /                         
 ---------------------|___|--------|_=_=_|--0-0---O<--------|()|---           
|   |    |    |               |              ^          \     \               
|   |    |    |\ Laterals     0               \_Chemical \     |_Pump      
|   |    |    |  (drip tube)   \_ Pressure      Injector  \_Main      
|   |    |    |                    Gauge                    Line               
|   |    |    |                                                               
|   |    |    |   Drip irrigation supplies small amounts of water to part of 
|   |    |    |   the plant root zone, often enough to maintain the moisture
|   |    |    |   level at or near field capacity.      
|   |    |    |
|   |    |    |   The type of emitter which controls the flow rate varies with
|   |    |    |   the type of crop being irrigated.  For row crop application
|   |    |    |   line source systems are used.  These can be twin chamber 
|   |    |    |   tubes or internal point source emitters.  For orchard crops
|   |    |    |   point source emitters are plugged into a lateral line. The
|   |    |    |   lateral can be installed underground or left on the surface.
                   DRIP IRRIGATION ON ROW CROP COST ANALYSIS                  

                       Deprec   Interest   Repairs    Taxes     Insur    Cost
                         -------- -------- -------- -------- -------- -------
 Water Supply             50.00    60.00     5.00     3.00     3.00   1000.00
 Pump     Screen/Filter   46.33    41.70     3.48     2.09     2.09    695.00
 Power Unit               65.83    47.40     0.11     2.37     2.37    790.00
 Pipe                      5.00     6.00     0.50     0.30     0.30    100.00
 Drip Row Crop          1300.00    78.00     6.50     3.90     3.90   1300.00
                        -------- -------- -------- -------- -------- --------
 TOTAL                  1467.17   233.10    15.59    11.66    11.66   3885.00

    Electric                        Fuel                              0.16
        5.00 acres                  Oil                               0.00
       52.00 GPM                    Repairs - power unit              0.00
      171.35 Ft of Head             Repairs - irrigation equipment    0.39
        3.00 Brake HP               Labor                             0.71     
        8.00 Irrigations of 1"                                    -------- 
                           Total Variable Cost/acre/application       $1.26

 Total fixed cost/acre of $344.72 plus variable cost/acre of $10.08 equals a
 total cost/acre of $354.79
                        CENTER PIVOT SYSTEM LAYOUT
                 *****      
             *           *    
          *                  *         The center pivot system has a center  
       *                       *       tower that anchors the system and pro-
     * \__Outer Edge of Center   *     vides the input power and water, a  
    *     Pivot                   *    lateral line with sprinklers, and "A"
   *                               *   frame supports mounted on rubber tires.
  *                <--- length ---> *  
 *                                   * The propulsion system, usually electric
 * Center Tower - O-----^----^----^--* requires 480-volt, 3-phase power but    
 *                 \     \_Tower_/   * can be hydraulic driven.          
  * Water Supply ---\               *      
   *  Pipe Line and  \             *   The system can be made up of a single 
    *  Electric power \           *    span covering 10 acres up to many spans
     *                 \         *     covering several hundred acres.  The  
       *                \       *      smaller units, which are also towable 
          *              \    *        allow more than one crop to be watered.
            *             \ *      
                 *****     \__0-0----O<----|()|---- Pump      
                               ^       \__Checkvalve Backflow Prevention
                                \__Chemical Injector                           
           TOWABLE CENTER PIVOT IRRIGATION SYSTEM COST ANALYSIS

                     Deprec  Interest  Repairs   Taxes    Insur      Cost
                    -------- -------- -------- -------- --------  ---------
  Water Supply        636.00   763.20    63.60    38.16    38.16   12720.00
  Pump                153.80   138.42    11.53     6.92     6.92    2307.00
  Power Unit          288.33   207.60    44.57    10.38    10.38    3460.00
  Pipe                681.00   817.20    68.10    40.86    40.86   13620.00
  Center Pivot       3018.00  1810.80   150.90    90.54    90.54   30180.00
  Land Development             720.00                              12000.00 
                    -------- -------- -------- -------- --------  ---------
  TOTAL              4777.13  4457.22   338.71   186.86   186.86   74287.00

     Electric                      Fuel                             2.66
         117.00 acres              Oil                              0.03
         827.00 GPM                Repairs - power unit             0.05
         179.56 Ft of Head         Repairs -irrigation equipment    0.31
          50.00 Brake HP           Labor                            0.65    
           8.00 Irrigations of 1"                               -------- 
                            Total Variable Cost/acre/application   $3.70
 Total fixed cost/acre of $82.12 plus variable cost/acre of $29.60 equals a
 total cost/acre of $111.72 
               TRAVELING GUN (LARGE SPRINKLER) SYSTEM LAYOUT

                    ------|()|---      Traveling guns are available in two 
                   |         \__ Pump  types: cable-tow and hose pull.  Both 
 Main Line Pipe -- |                   types are powered by an auxiliary 
                   |                   engine, water turbine, or water piston.
 <-----------------O-----------------> 
     \             |                   The cable-tow traveling sprinkler has a
       -- Travel   |   Lanes           single large sprinkler mounted on a 2, 
     /             |                   3, or 4 wheeled traveler.  The lateral
 <-----------------O-----------------> line is a 2.5 to 4.5 inch flexible hose
                   |\                  (lay-flat). The machine follows a steel 
 |<--Length Hose-->| --- Hydrants      cable anchored at one of the field.  A
                   |/                  typical unit would irrigate a strip  
 <-----------------O-----------------> from 200 to 330 feet wide by 660 to 
    \              |                   1400 feet long in one trip through the
     -Spacing Width| Of Travel Lanes   field.              
    /              |                   The hose-pull traveler has a PE hose on
 <-----------------O-----------------> a reel mounted on a carriage with a 
                                       large sprinkler mounted on a cart. The 
                                       semi-rigid hose is available in 1.5 to
                                       5 inch with lengths of 300 - 1250 feet.
         TRAVELING GUN (HOSE PULL) IRRIGATION SYSTEM COST ANALYSIS

                        Deprec  Interest  Repairs    Taxes    Insur    Cost
                       -------- -------- -------- -------- -------- --------
 Water Supply            150.00   180.00    15.00     9.00     9.00  3000.00
 Pump                    133.33   120.00    10.00     6.00     6.00  2000.00
 Power Unit              666.67   480.00   448.47    24.00    24.00  8000.00
 Pipe                    693.75   832.50    69.37    41.63    41.63 13875.00
 Traveling Gun          2600.00  1560.00   130.00    78.00    78.00 26000.00
                       -------- -------- -------- -------- -------- --------
 TOTAL                  4243.75  3172.50   672.84   158.63   158.63 52875.00

    Diesel                          Fuel                             2.94
      150.00 acres                  Oil                              0.45
      500.00 GPM                    Repairs - power unit             0.37
      445.50 Ft of Head             Repairs - irrigation equipment   0.19
       75.00 Brake HP               Labor                            1.42  
        8.00 Irrigations of 1"                                   --------
                           Total Variable Cost/acre/application     $5.37 

 Total fixed cost/acre of $51.56 plus variable cost/acre of $42.96 equals a
 total cost/acre of $94.52   
                  PORTABLE AND PERMANENT SYSTEMS LAYOUT

         ___ Sprinklers____           _______0-0-------O<--|()|--- Pump
        /                  \         | \_Main ^         \_ Checkvalve Backflow 
+_____ +_____ +______+______+______+_|   Line  \_ Chemical  Prevention
|      |      |      |      |      | |\            Injector
|<---->|<---->|<---->|<---->|<---->| | Submain
 Sprinkler Spacing on Lateral        |/ 
+_____ +______+______+______+______+_| The portable system is designed to be
                                     | moved as often as three times a day.
   \_ _ Spacing Bewteen Laterals     | Three types of portable systems
   /                                 |                      Spacing in Feet
+______+______+______+______+______+_| Low gallonage:     30X40, 40X60, 60X80 
Maximun Sprinkler Spacing on Lateral | Medium gallonage:  60X80  thru 120X120 
                                     | High gallonage:    160X160 thru 260X260
50 % of Wetted Diameter of Sprinkler | 
+______+______+______+______+______+_| The permanent or solid set system is 
Maximum Lateral Spacing on Submain   | sized like the portable system. It is 
                                     | used when frost protection is required
65 % of Wetted Diameter of Sprinkler | and uses low gallonage sprinklers.  The
+______+______+______+______+______+_| laterals, submain, and main line pipe
                                       are usually buried.
                   SOLID SET IRRIGATION SYSTEM COST ANALYSIS

                        Deprec  Interest  Repairs   Taxes    Insur     Cost
                       -------- -------- -------- -------- -------- --------
 Water Supply             50.00    60.00     5.00     3.00     3.00  1000.00 
 Pump                     40.00    36.00     3.00     1.80     1.80   600.00
 Power Unit              100.00    72.00     0.17     3.60     3.60  1200.00
 Pipe                     37.50    45.00     3.75     2.25     2.25   750.00
 Solid Set               160.00   144.00    12.00     7.20     7.20  2400.00
                       -------- -------- -------- -------- -------- --------
 TOTAL                   387.50   357.00    23.92    17.85    17.85  5950.00

    Electric                        Fuel                             0.40
        3.00 acres                  Oil                              0.00
      189.00 GPM                    Repairs - power unit             0.01
      117.86 Ft of Head             Repairs - irrigation equipment   0.99
        7.50 Brake HP               Labor                            0.07  
        8.00 Irrigations of 1"                                    --------
                           Total Variable Cost/acre/application     $1.47

 Total fixed cost/acre  of $260.07 plus variable cost/acre of $11.76 equals a
 total cost/acre of $271.83                                                 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOUTH CAROLINA WATER LAWS PERTAINING TO IRRIGATION          
-DOC-
          SOUTH CAROLINA WATER LAWS PERTAINING TO IRRIGATION
            C.V. Privette  Extension Agricultural Engineer

Use of water for irrigation is covered by a number of laws enacted by Congress 
South Carolina legislature and decisions by the courts.  Those who are 
considering using water or are already using water for irrigation should be 
cognizance of the following acts and decisions.                          

Riparian Rights (Reasonable Use Doctrine) 1901        See  page  357010A    

Ground Water use Act  1969                            See page   357010B     

Federal Water Pollution Control Act 1972              See page   357010C     

Water Use Reporting and Coordination Act  1982        See page   357010D     

InterBasin Transfer of Water Act  1985                See page   357010E 

Drought Response Act  1985                            See page   357010F 

Anti-syphon Devices on Irrigation Systems Act  1986   See page   357010G 
          RIPARIAN RIGHT DOCTRINE (REASONABLE USE DOCTRINE) 1901

The basic law of surface water in South Carolina is the riparian doctrine.  The
doctrine has evolved over the years since its adoption in 1835.  In 1901 the 
court defined the reasonable use doctrine by stating:  "But as between 
proprietors on the same stream, the right of each qualifies that of the other, 
and the question always is not merely whether the lower proprietor suffers 
damage by use of the water above him, or whether the quantity flowing on is 
diminished by the use, but whether, under all of the circumstances of the case,
the use of the water by one is reasonable and consistent with a correspondent 
enjoyment by the other."

That what constitutes a reasonable use is a question of fact for a jury 
determination may be taken as a settled proposition.

A riparian right originates by means of ownership of land abutting or 
contiguous to a natural watercourse.  Existence of a watercourse, and the 
definition of it, distinguishes the field of law dealing with diffused surface 
water and the field of riparian rights.  "To constitute a water course, there 
must be a stream usually flowing in a particular direction, though it need not 
flow in a definite channel, having a bed, sides or banks, and it naturally 
discharges itself into some other stream or body of water."    
                          GROUND WATER USE ACT 1969

The act authorizes the South Carolina Water Resources Commission to establish, 
after required studies, a "capacity use area."  In such an area, permits are 
required to withdraw ground water in excess of 100,000 gallons per day for any 
purpose.

A capacity use area is defined as any area where the Commission finds that the 
aggregate uses of ground water in or affecting the area:
     1) Have developed or threaten to develop to a degree which requires 
        coorrdination and regulation, or
     2) Exceed or threaten to exceed or impair the renewal or replenishment of 
        the ground water.

The area of the state presently considered a capacity use area is along the 
coast consisting of: Horry, Georgetown, Charleston, Colleton, Beaufort and 
Jasper counties.

The Ground Water Use Act suggest a reasonable use doctrine imposed through 
state-issued ground water use permits.  Procedures for permit administration 
are provided, including provisions for notice, hearing, and judical review.  
Pentalities and injunctive relief are provided.
                   FEDERAL WATER POLLUTION CONTROL ACT 1972

The Federal Water Pollution Control Act applies to those irrigators who would 
be obtaining their water from a "navigable" stream and would be using a dug 
canel or water-way from which to pump.  Section 404  prohibits the discharge of
dredged or fill material into the waters of the United States without first 
obtaining a permit.  While administration of the Section 404 program has not 
been delegated to the State of South Carolina, the comments of the State are 
solicited by the Corps of Engineers on all applications, many of which overlap 
State permitting jurisdiction; moreover, prior to issuance of a Section 404 
permit, the applicant must obtain a Section 401 water quality certification.
Application to the Corps in Charleston for  a 404 permit constitute an 
application to the State.  The Corps will request from the Department of Health
and Environmental Control Section 401 water quality certification.

The program is designed to maintain the physical and chemical integrity of the 
waters of the United States.  The Secretary of the Army is authorized to issue 
general permits for any category of activities involving discharges of dredged 
or fill material if the activies will cause only minimal adverse environmental 
affects when performed separately, and will have only minimal cumulative 
adverse effect on the environment.
                 WATER USE REPORTING AND COORDINATION ACT  1982

The South Carolina Water Use Reporting and Coordination Act requires every user 
of 100,000 gallons of water or more a day to file a report.  Irrigation users 
have to report their water use in January of the following year. The reporting
forms are routed through the Clemson University County Extension offices to 
the State Extension office for data assumulation and then to the Commission.

The report requires that the water source be identified for each irrigation 
system.  The source can be a stream, pond on a stream, dug pond off of a 
stream, canal off a stream, well, well and pond combination, public supplier, 
etc.  The type of irrigation equipment being used in each field irrigated is 
also reported.  The crop and the acreage irrigated is reported each year.

There are five methods commonly used to determine water use: 1) Totalizing 
meter, 2) Rated pump capacity times hours of operation, 3) Inches applied per 
acre, 4) Water pumpage volume per energy consumption rate conversion factor and
5) Weir and gage or Parshall flume.

The Act requires submission of a drillers well log to the Commission for any
new water well constructed, having a casing diameter of four inches or greater.
                    INTERBASIN TRANSFER OF WATER ACT 1985

The interbasin water transfer act governs the interbasin transfer of surface 
water and sets forth permit application, permit review, registration, 
notification and hearing procedures.  A permit is required for anyone 
transferring either five percent or more of the seven day, ten year low flow, 
or one million gallons of water a day on any day, whichever is less, from one 
river basin and use or discharge all or any part of the water in a different 
river basin.

Any person proposing a transfer subject to the Act shall notify the S. C. Water
Resources Commission in writing prior to effecting any transfer facility.  
Following receipt of written notification, the Commission shall determine if 
the proposed transfer constitutes an interbasin transfer.  Upon a positive 
finding, the Commission shall conduct a preliminary assessment consisting of: 
streamflow, water use, instream studies and other appropriate information.  
Based on this assessment the Commission may determine that the proposed 
transfer is feasible, feasible with modification, or not feasible.

Transfer permits issued by the Commission shall be valid for a period of no 
longer than: Twenty years, or a period longer than 20 years if found to be 
reasonable but not to exceed 40 years.
                          DROUGHT RESPONSE ACT  1985

The drought response act establishes procedures for the protection of the 
health and safety and the promotion of the general welfare of all South 
Carolinians during the period of drought.  The procedures set forth the 
development of drought plans and ordinances; the establishment of drought 
management areas and drought response committee; the identification of drought;
the collection, monitoring and dissemination of drought information; and the 
management of water use in drought-stricken areas.

The regulations apply to every person using water and to all water resources of
the State, with the exception of any pond completely situated on private 
property and fed only by diffused surface waters.

The State is divided into six drought management areas: 1) Northwest; Oconee, 
Pickens, Greenville, Spartanburg, Cherokee, Anderson, Laurens, Union  2) North
Central; York, Chester, Fairfield, Lancaster, Kershaw  3) West Central; 
Abbeville, McCormick, Greenwood, Newberry, Saluda, Edgefield, Aiken 4) Central;
Lexington, Richland, Calhoun, Orangeburg, Lee, Sumter, Clarendon 5) Northeast; 
Chesterfield, Marlboro, Darlington, Florence, Dillon, Marion, Horry, 
Williamsburg, Georgetown  6) Southern; Barnwell, Allendale, Bamberg, Hampton, 
Jasper, Deaufort, Colleton, Dorchester, Charleston, Berkeley.
                       Drought Response Act (continued)

There are four drought phases that the act recognizes: Incipient drought, 
Moderate drought, Severe drought, and Extreme drought.  The Office of the State
Climatologist, S. C. Water Resources Commission, shall maintain a Drought 
Information Center whemever one or more drought management areas of the State 
are in a moderate, severe or extreme drought alert phase.

The Drought Information Center shall routinely collect, monitor, and evaluate 
selected climatic, water-supply and water-use data as necessary to identify at 
an early stage the onset of a drought or potential drought, geographic extent 
of the affected area and changes in the drought levels.  A Palmer Drought Index
shall be computed for each drought management area on a weekly basis.  

During severe or extreme drought conditions, the Water Resources Commission may
require mandatory reduction or curtailment of non-essential water use in 
affected drought management areas if recommended by the Drought Advisory 
Committee.  The curtailment of water use may involve reducing the quantity of 
water used; adjusting the quality of water to meet the water use; adjusting the
time of water use; and/or utilizing different sources of water.  Any person 
adversely affected by mandatory curtailment may, within ten days after such 
curtailment submit appropriate information to the WRC and seek a variance.
             ANTI-SYPHON DEVICES ON IRRIGATION SYSTEMS ACT  1986

The anti-syphon devices on irrigation systems act requires that any irrigation 
system which is designed or used for the applications of fertilizer, pesticide,
or chemicals must be equipped with an anti-syphon device adequate to protect 
against contamination of the water supply. The minimum acceptable anti-syphon 
device shall include a check valve, vacuum breaker, and low pressure drain on 
the irrigation supply line between the irrigation pump and the point of 
injection of fertilizer, pesticide, or chemicals.  The injection pump must be
tied to the irrigation pump either mechanically or electrically so that the
injection pump shall stop operating if the irrigation pump fails to function.  

  CHECK VALVE  The check valve is needed in the irrigation pipe line to prevent
water already combined with chemical from draining back into the irrigation 
water supply when the system is shut down.
  LOW PRESSURE DRAIN  If the mainline check valve leaks the low pressure drain 
on the bottom side of the irrigation pipe line automatically drains  away the 
solution rather than allowing it to flow into the well or water supply.
  VACUUM BREAKER  The vacuun breaker releases the suction of the column of 
water from the water source to the check valve.

See the next two pages for diagrams of the anti-syphon devices.
BACKFLOW PREVENTION DEVICE - CHECK VALVE, VACUUM BREAKER, LOW PRESSURE DRAIN

                                                                             
                                        ------- 
 Air Vacuum Relief--------------_------>|_____|                          _
 Valve                         | |     /       \                        | |
                               | |    /_________\  _____________________| |
                               | |      |     |   /      \\     //      | | 
                               | |______|_____|__/        \\   //       | |
                               | |               -------|| \\ //        | |
Spring Actuated Flapper--------| |----------------------||->\\          | |
Valve Mechanism                | |                      ||  //     ___  | |
                               | |  Flow   Direction    || //     {   } | |
Standard 8-Bolt -------------->| |  =================>  ||//   -->{___} | | 
Mounting Flanges               | |                      ||    /         | |
                               | |                      ||   /          | |
3/4" NPT Injection Port -------| |----------------------||--/           | |
                               | |________________------||              | |
                               | |       |   |   \                      | |
Low Pressure Drain ------------| |------>|   |    \_____________________| |
                               | |        ~~~      [ ]                  | |
3/4" NPT Drain Plug -----------|_|----------------/                     |_|
BACKFLOW PREVENTION DEVICE - ADD ON - VACUUM BREAKER AND LOW PRESSURE DRAIN

                                                                             
                                        ------- 
Air Vacuum Relief --------------_------>|_____|        _  _                 _
Valve                          | |     /       \      | || |               | |
                               | |    /_________\     | || |_______________| |
                               | |      |     |       | || |               | |
                               | |______|_____|_______| || |               | |
                               | |                    | || |               | |
                               | |                    | || |               | |
                               | |                    | || |               | |
                               | | Flow Direction     | || |               | |
Standard 8-Bolt -------------->| | ===============>   | || |    Existing   | |
Mounting Flanges               | |                    | || |   Check Valve | |
                               | |                    | || |               | |
                               | |                    | || |               | |
                               | |____________________| || |               | |
                               | |       |   |        | || |               | |
Low Pressure Drain ------------| |------>|   |        | || |_______________| |
                               | |        ~~~         | || |               | |
                               |_|                    |_||_|               |_|

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    4532         Title: Farrowing House     
                               
Type:        Central farrowing unit        

Use:         Confined, controlled environment farrowing         

Description: 24' x 80'; for 100-sow herd; office and storage; pole frame; metal 
             roof;  masonry foundation;  concrete floor;  concrete slats; flush 
             under slats;  2,  24' x 35' rooms with 10 stalls each;  controlled 
             environment.  




-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                         
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                    
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    6243        Title: Farrowing Crate     

Type:        Knock-down farrowing crate        

Use:         Farrowing in central unit          

Description: 2' x 7';  sow compartment only;  steel  construction;  1"  square 
             tubing; vertical side bars.  
               
              





-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    6290        Title: Farrowing and Feeder Pig Unit     
                               
Type:        Portable farrowing/growing unit        

Use:         Farrowing/growing unit for 4 sows and litters; produce feeder pigs 
             in portable units.

Description: 11' x 20' portable house for 4 stalls; 10' x 16' grower house; 
             wood frame; metal roof;  slat floor; natural ventilation.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    6318     Title: Farrowing Stall     
                               
Type:        Farrowing stall with front creep        

Use:         Planning farrowing stall layout.        
                
Description: 5' x 7' stall with 2' wide front  creep;  for  use  with  crates, 
             stalls, or tether; concrete, wood, or metal construction.  



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    6372     Title: 10-Crate Farrowing and Nursing     
                               
Type:        Flush-type farrowing and nursing unit        

Use:         Farrow 10-sow groups; separate nursery for pigs to 65 days of age. 

Description: 23' x 56';  10 farrowing crates on concrete slats;  11,  5' x  5' 
             nursery pens on wire floor;  wood frame; masonry foundation; metal 
             roof; concrete floor; controlled environment.  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    5666     Title: "A" Type Hog House     
                               
Type:        Wood frame, "A" type swine shelter        

Use:         Portable farrowing house and shelter.
                
Description: 8' x 8'; "A" shape; wood frame; wood siding; portable; total 
             enclosure; with or without floor.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    4530      Title: Breeding House

Type:        Flush-type, confinement breeding        

Use:         Confinement unit for sheltering sows/gilts and boars before, 
             during, and after breeding  

Description: 24' x 56'; for 100-sow herd; wood frame; masonry foundation; metal 
             roof; concrete  floor;  open  gutter  flush;  individual  sows in 
             stalls;individual boars  in  pens;  two  separate  breeding  pens; 
             masonry pen partitions; natural ventilation.  




-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    4531         Title: Gestation House     
                               
Type:        Flush-type, confinement gestation        

Use:         Confinement unit for sheltering sows/gilts during gestation  

Description: 24' x 72'; for 100-sow herd; wood frame; masonry foundation; metal 
             roof; concrete floor; open gutter flush;  12, 6-sow pens;  masonry 
             pen partitions; natural ventilation.  
              



    


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    4534     Title: Nursery     
                               
Type:        Sow and pig nursery and grower unit        

Use:         Two  sows  and  nursing  pigs  per pen till weaning;  additional  
             pens for growing pigs to 50 lb.  

Description: 32' x 72'; for 100-sow herd; wood frame; masonry foundation; metal 
             roof; concrete floor;  open gutter flush;  masonry pen partitions; 
             natural ventilation.  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr. 

Plan No.:    6355     Title: Raised Deck Nursery     
                               
Type:        Controlled environment, early wean nursery        

Use:         Shelter early weaned pigs in one-litter pens to 40 lb.  

Description: 30' x 56';  two rooms with 24,  4' x 4' raised floor  pens;  wood 
             frame;  metal  roof;  masonry foundation;  concrete floor;  flush; 
             controlled environment.  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-
                                                                              
                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    4535     Title: Finishing House     
                               
Type:        Open gutter flush growing and finishing unit        

Use:         Confinement feeding of swine from 40 lb. to market weight. 
  
Description: 30' x 136'; for 100-sow herd;  8 pens 7' x 26';  8 pens 10' x 26'; 
             30  pigs  per  pen;  open  gutter flush;  wood frame;  metal roof; 
             masonry pen partitions and  foundation;  concrete  floor;  natural 
             ventilation.  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    4536     Title: Finishing House     
                               
Type:        Double-sided, open gutter flush finishing        

Use:         Confinement feeding of swine from 40 lb. to market weight.

Description: 30' x 128'; for 100-sow herd; 10 pens 8' x 16';  8 pens 16' x 16'; 
             30  pigs  per  pen;  open  gutter flush;  wood frame;  metal roof; 
             masonry pen partitions and  foundation;  concrete  floor;  natural 
             ventilation.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    6305     Title: Backyard Pigpen     
                               
Type:        Portable swine feeding shelter and pen        

Use:         Confinement feeding of 1 or 2 pigs in a farmyard situation.

Description: 4' x 8'; portable; wood frame; plywood floor; partial roof.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    5787         Title: Movable Hog House     
                               
Type:        Portable, 2-pen swine shelter        

Use:         Portable shelter for pigs or breeding stock; used in single or 
             multiple units.  
                
Description: 8' x 14'; 2 pens; portable; wood framing and siding; open front.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    5816     Title: 12' x 16' Shade     
                               
Type:        Portable or permanent shade
                                     
Use:         Pasture shade for swine.
                
Description: 12' x 16';  wood or metal  construction;  portable  or  permanent 
             location.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    5947     Title: Portable Shade     
                               
Type:        Portable shade for swine        

Use:         Portable pasture shade.
                
Description: 12' x 16'; portable; metal frame and roof; wood skids.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    6257     Title: Tarp Hog Shade     
                               
Type:        Permanent shade for swine        

Use:         Shade for unconfined swine.
                
Description: 16' x 16'; metal frame; tarp cover; permanent location.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    5756     Title: Self Feeder     
                               
Type:        Portable 15 bu. feeder                             

Use:         Self feeder for swine.
                
Description: 15 bu. (12 cu.  ft.); wood construction; 4 feeder holes with lids; 
             portable.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    5815     Title: Self Feeder     
                               
Type:        55-gal. drum self feeder        

Use:         Portable self feeder for swine.
                
Description: 55-gal. drum storage compartment; wood frame; metal roof; 3' x 3' 
             base.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    6056     Title: Portable Sow Feeders     
                               
Type:        Sow feeder with individual stalls        

Use:         Portable unit for individual feeding of gestating sows and gilts.

Description: 6' x 16'; 10-sow unit; wood or metal construction; on skids.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    6343     Title: Feed Cart     
                               
Type:        15 bu., 4-wheel cart        

Use:         Distribution of concentrates in swine structures.
                
Description: 2' x 4'; 15 bu. (12 cu. ft.) capacity; 4, 5" or 6" caster wheels; 
             wood construction.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    4521     Title: Loading Chute     
                               
Type:        Variable height loading chute        

Use:         Loading/unloading swine for/from transport.
                
Description: 18' long; 20" wide; variable height; wood construction.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    5793     Title: Loading Chutes    
                               
Type:        Portable and permanent loading chutes for swine        

Use:         Loading/unloading swine for/from transport.
                
Description: 4' x 10'; fixed elevation; wood construction;  portable (on skids) 
             or permanent; ramp- or step-type floor.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    5798     Title: Movable Loading Chute     
                               
Type:        2-wheel loading chute        

Use:         Loading/unloading swine for/from transport.
                
Description: 12' long; wood construction; 2 wheels and hitch;  removable stake-
             mounted sides.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    6289     Title: Castrating Cradle     
                               
Type:        25" long, wooden cradle        

Use:         Restraint device for castrating small pigs.
                
Description: 25" long; wood construction.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    6238     Title: Circular Flush Tank     
                               
Type:        Automatic, metal flush water tank        

Use:         Automatic release of water for flushing swine housing.

Description: 41" to 65" long circular tank;  self dumping;  180 to  280  gal.; 
             metal construction.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    6282     Title: Manure Storage and Settling Basin
                               
Type:        Settling basin for feedlot runoff

Use:         Collection of manure and rainfall runoff from uncovered swine feed 
             lots.

Description: Variable size; wood walls; concrete floor; manure storage;  runoff 
             settling basin; manure loading ramp.  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    6349     Title: Flush Systems     
                               
Type:        Manual, siphon and high rate pumping flush mechanisms        

Use:         Delivery of flush water for swine house manure management.

Description: Equipment for manual, siphon and high rate pump delivery of flush 
             water; metal water storage units; PVC pipe water delivery.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OPERATING EXTINGUISHERS	                            
-DOC-
                            OPERATING EXTINGUISHERS	
                   JACK W. DAVIS EXTENSION SAFETY SPECIALIST	
	
We come in to contact with fire extinguishers on a daily basis.  You never know 
when you may need to know how to operate an extinguisher properly.  It is best 
to familiarize yourself with location and operating procedures before the need 
for using the extinguisher arises.	
	
Most fire extinguishers operate basically the same way:	
       PULL the locking pin	
       AIM the nozzle at the bottom or base of the fire	
       SQUEEZE or press the handle	
       SWEEP the extinguisher back and forth at the base of the fire until it 
       is extinguished or the extinguisher quits	
	
Remember -- always read the directions on any fire extinguisher before 
operating.  Some extinguishers may require a slightly different method of 
operation.  Familiarize yourself with the extinguisher before a fire occurs so 
you will know how to use it.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TYPES OF EXTINGUISHERS	                             
-DOC-
                             TYPES OF EXTINGUISHERS	
                   JACK W. DAVIS EXTENSION SAFETY SPECIALIST	
	
Fire extinguishers are marked according to the classes of fire they put out.  A 
standard marking system has been established to make identification simple.  
Labels on extinguishers show the class of fire and the size of fire the 
extinguisher can be expected to handle when properly used.  The labeling system 
involves a number and an alphabetic letter.  The number indicates approximate 
extinguishing potential.  The letter indicates the class of fire it can 
extinguish.	
	
Extinguishers that will work on solid fuel fires are marked with an "A" in a 
triangle.  Those that are effective on liquid fires are marked with a "B" in a 
square.  Those that may be used safely on electrical fires are marked with a 
"C" in a circle.	
	
For most home use, consider a multipurpose dry chemical extinguisher.  An 
extinguisher that can be used for more than one class of fire will be rated for 
each class of fire on the label.  For example, an extinguisher rated 2A:10BC 
means that it will extinguish all three classes of fires if used properly.	
The lowest rating given to Class A extinguishers is 1A.  This would be good 
only on a very small solid fuel fire.  A 2A rating will be twice as effective 
as a 1A rating, and a 4A rating will give four times the protection, and so on.  
Select an extinguisher with at least a 2A rating for your home.	
	
Class B fire extinguishers are rated according to the square feet of flammable 
liquid they will extinguish if used properly.  The lowest rating given  to a 
Class B extinguisher is 5B.  A 5B unit should extinguish five square feet of 
flammable liquid, and a 10B would control ten square feet if used properly.	
	
Class C extinguishers are not given a numeric rating because most Class C, 
electrical fires, will involve either Class A or B materials.  The C rating 
will appear if it is safe to use on electrical fires.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EXTINGUISHING MATERIALS	                             
-DOC-
                             EXTINGUISHING MATERIALS	
                   JACK W. DAVIS EXTENSION SAFETY SPECIALIST	
	
Several types of materials are used in fire extinguishers.  Water is a common 
agent in extinguishers rated only for Class A fires.  Certain chemicals and 
foams are used in extinguishers rated for all three classes of fires.  Carbon 
dioxide is also commonly used for Class B and C fires.	
	
It is strongly recommended that fire extinguishers be located in all homes.  In 
addition to using fire extinguishers, there are a number of other materials 
that can be used to put a fire out.  Water from a garden hose can be used to 
put out a Class A fire.  However, never use water on Class B or C fires.  Other 
useful items include: dry sand, a shovel, a rake, and a water pail.  Many fires 
occur in the kitchen while using the stove.  Some things that can be used to 
smother a grease fire include: baking soda, lids that fit the frying pan, or 
anything that can smother the fire without spreading the grease.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GAS FURNACE EFFICIENCY RATINGS                 
-DOC-
               

                 GAS FURNACE EFFICIENCY RATINGS
                 R.A. Spray, Extension Engineer

Furnace  efficiencies are given an AFUE rating which is a measure 
of  how  effectively the fuel burned is turned into heat  in  the 
home.   High  efficiency furnaces may use outside for  combustion 
and may be a condensing type which requires a condensate drain to 
carry the acid water away from the furnace.
Terms in the following table are defined as:
HEAT OUT : thousands of BTU'S
AFUE :furnace efficiency as a percent
OUTSIDE AIR: outside air is required for operation
DRAIN: condensate drain is required to remove the acid water

                                  
                                         T            T
                                        U            U
                                       O     N      O
                                            I                 E
                                     R     A      U          U
                                    I     R      T          F
MANUFACTURER        MODEL          A     D      B          A

Addison        Weatherking       |    |    |           |  81  |
Amana          Air Command       |    |    |           |  84  |
               Energy command    | x  | x  |   76-95   |  97  |
Arco                             |    |    |   33-97   |  83  |
Arkla          Recuperative      | x  | x  |  35-103   |  87  |
Bard           IH Series         |    |    |  48-119   |  83  |
Borg-Warner    Heat Pipe         |    |    |    62     |  85  |
Bryant         Plus 90           | x  | x  |  41-122   |  92  |
               1000 Series       |    |    |  39-139   |  83  |
               2000 Series       |    |    |  39-139   |  83  |
Carrier        Super Furnace     |    |    |           |  83  |
               Weathermaker SK   | x  | x  |  40-121   |  97  |
Comfortmaker   Climate Control   |    |    |   33-97   |  83  |
Clare Bros.    Megasave I        |    |    |  29-114   |  97  |
Coleman        T.H.E.            |    |    |   41-84   |  92  |
Cox            Wondaire          |    |    |           |  83  |
Dayton Elec.                     |    |    |   47-94   |  96  |
Duomtic Olsen  Ultramax          | x  | x  |     84    |  93  |
Glowcore       UF Series         | x  | x  |   40-80   |  91  |
Heat Contr.    Reclaimer         |    | x  |  35-103   |  87  |
               Reclaimer II      | x  | x  |  38-110   |  95  |
Heil-Quaker    Eng.Marshall II   | x  | x  |   47-97   |  96  |
Lenox          Conservator II    |    |    |   41-81   |  81  |
               Pulse Furnace     | x  | x  |  40-130   |  97  |
Magic Chef     Ultra Series      |    | x  |   53-95   |  87  |
               Ultra 97 Series   | x  | x  |   39-94   |  97  |
Rheem/Ruud     90 Plus           |    |    |   43-93   |  93  |
Sears          867.769010020030  |    | x  |   47-94   |  96  |
Square D       Sun Dial HU       |    |    |   53-95   |  87  |
Suburban       Dynatwin          | x  | x  |           |  86  |
ThermoProducts IGH Thermopride   |    |    |  62-103   |  84  |
Trane          Elite             |    |    |  35-104   |  87  |
               Elite Plus        | x  | x  |  38-110   |  95  |
               Executive         |    |    |  36-123   |  82  |
Whirlpool      NDGE Series       |    |    |           |  82  |
               Tightfist II      |    | x  |   47-94   |  96  |
Williamson     High Efficiency   | x  | x  |  38-110   |  95  |

               
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HEAT PUMP EFFICIENCY RATINGS                  
-DOC-
                  HEAT PUMP EFFICIENCY RATINGS
                 R.A. Spray, Extension Engineer

Evaluate heatpumps by comparing the following ratings.
The higher the numbers, the more efficient the unit is.

MBTUH--BTU per hour in thousands
SEER--seasonal energy efficiency ratio or cooling rating
COP-47--coefficient of performance--heating rating @ 47 degrees
COP-17--coefficient of performance--heating rating @ 17 degrees

       The following rating are for split systems. ID numbers are 
given  for the outdoor unit only.   Be advised that indoor units
other  than  the one listed may be more  efficient.   Dealers  can
provide this and other information.


COMPANY          MBTUH    SEER   COP-47   COP-17   OUTDOOR NUMBER

AMANA            16.8     9.00    2.82     1.90    ARHF18-U01A
                 24.4     9.00    2.84     1.92    ARHF24-U01A
                 29.0     9.15    2.84     1.92    ARHF30-U01A 
                 35.0     9.05    2.90     2.06    ARHF36-U01A

SNYDER GEN.
   ARCOAIRE      22.8     9.30    3.10     2.16    AYA024GA
                 30.0     9.50    3.00     2.10    AYA030GA
                 36.0     9.30    3.00     2.00    AYA036GA

BRYANT
   DELUXE H.P.   17.5     9.50    2.74     1.84    544AJ018
                 22.8     9.90    2.84     1.94    544BJ024
                 29.2     9.80    3.00     2.14    544BJ030
                 36.2    10.25    2.94     2.14    544BJ036
CARRIER
   PRO H.P.      22.0     9.30    2.80     1.94    38HPC02430
                 29.2     9.35    3.00     2.04    38HPC03030
                 36.2     9.75    2.94     2.14    38HPC036030
 COMPANY         MBTU     SEER   COP-47   COP-17   OUTSIDE NUMBER

   PRO MAX       21.4     9.40    2.84     1.94    38HPC02430
                 28.8     9.40    2.90     2.04    38HPC03030
                 35.8    10.05    2.90     2.14    38HP03630

   CUTTER        22.6     9.20    2.96     1.98    38QH02430
                 35.0     9.10    2.84     2.00    38QH03631

   CUTTER MAX    13.5     9.35    2.70     1.72    38QH01530
                 22.6     9.60    2.96     1.98    38QH02430
                 28.0     9.70    2.92     2.02    38QH03031
                 
   WEATHER-
    MAKER III    23.6     9.30    2.84     2.00    38SQ940 +
                                                   38SQ02430
                 33.6     9.50    3.00     2.00    38SQ940 +
                                                   38SQ03630
         MAX     23.6     9.80    2.84     2.00    38SQ940 +
                                                   38SQ02430
                 33.6     9.80    3.00     2.00    38SQ940 +
                                                   38SQ03630
COMPANY         MBTUH     SEER   COP-47   COP-17   OUTSIDE NUMBER
  CARRIER
   CLIPPER MAX   13.5     9.35    2.70     1.72    38QN01532
                 
COLEMAN 
   DELUXE E.S.   18.0     9.00    2.80     1.90    3018-601
                 24.2     9.00    2.80     2.00    3024-901
                 29.2     9.10    2.96     2.00    3030-901
                 34.0     9.10    3.00     2.00    3036A801,811
   
   T.H.E. II     See Coleman dealer for specs.

COMFORTMAKER
                 17.4     9.00    2.90     2.00    CYA018GA
                 22.8     8.60    2.86     2.00    CYA024GA
                 28.4     9.00    2.84     2.10    CYA030GA
                 35.4     9.05    3.00     2.00    CYA036GA

DAY & NIGHT      This is a division of Carrier
COMPANY         MBTUH     SEER   COP-47   COP-17   OUTSIDE NUMBER
GOODMAN MFG.
   GMC           18.0     9.00    2.82     2.00    CP18-1D
                 23.0     9.00    2.82     2.00    CP24-1D
                 28.0     9.00    2.82     2.00    CP30-1D
                 35.0     9.00    2.92     2.10    CP36-1D
 
   JANITROL      This is a division of Goodman Manufacturing
   JOHNSTONE

LENNOX IND.
   POWER MINDER  33.8    10.85    2.90     2.00    HP14/411-5P,7P
   HP16-SERIES   18.3     9.40    2.90     2.04    HP16-211V-1P
                 22.6     9.05    2.90     2.00    HP16-261V-1P
                 29.2     9.10    2.90     2.00    HP16-311V-1P
                 35.2     9.25    2.84     2.00    HP16-411V-1P

MAGIC CHEF       17.4     9.05    2.84     1.70    PEO18P,S-A260
                 24.0     9.05    2.84     1.76    PEO24P,S-A261
                 29.0     9.05    2.84     1.90    PEO30P,S-A261
                 36.6     9.05    2.84     1.80    PEO36P,S-A262
COMPANY         MBTUH     SEER   COP-47   COP-17   OUTSIDE NUMBER
MAGIC CHEF
   AIR-EASE
   ARMSTRONG
   GAFFERS & SATTLER
   JOHNSON               These are brand names for MAGIC CHEF
   MAGIC CHEF               
   WILLIAMS                                 

PATCO         SEE MAGIC CHEF

PAYNE         SEE SAME BRAND NAME UNDER CARRIER

RHEEM
   RPFA SERIES   17.0     9.75    2.84     1.84    RPFA-018JA
   RPGA SERIES   18.2    11.20    3.24     2.24    RPGA-018JA
                 24.2    10.80    3.34     2.44    RPGA-024JA
                 30.0    10.60    3.10     2.40    RPGA-030JA
                 36.8    10.50    3.14     2.34    RPGA-036JA
COMPANY         MBTUH     SEER   COP-47   COP-17   OUTSIDE NUMBER
RUUD
   UPFA SERIES   17.0     9.75    2.84     1.84    UPFA-018JA
                 23.4     9.25    2.90     1.94    UPFA-024JA
                 30.0     9.35    3.00     2.14    UPFA-030JA
                 33.6     9.15    2.90     2.00    UPFA-036JA
   UPGB SERIES   18.5    11.65    3.10     2.10    UPGB-018JA
                 24.8    11.60    3.20     2.30    UPGB-024JA
                 30.2    12.20    3.40     2.42    UPGB-030JA
                 35.0    11.10    3.18     2.28    UPGB-036JA

SEARS            18.1    9.30     2.90     2.00    867.820811
                 24.4    9.05     2.82     2.04    867.821920
                 29.8    9.50     3.00     2.00    867.821931
                 35.2    9.00     2.90     2.10    867.821940
COMPANY         MBTUH    SEER    COP-47   COP-17   OUTSIDE NUMBER
TRANE           
   XL 1200       22.2   10.60     2.98     2.02    TWX724A
                 27.8   10.80     2.96     2.04    TWX730A
                 35.6   12.00     3.24     2.22    TWX736A
   WEATHERTRON-
     ELITE PLUS  18.2   10.00     2.96     1.90    BWR718E
                 22.6   10.00     2.96     2.10    BWR724E
                 32.6   11.30     3.16     2.20    BWR730E
                 36.0   11.35     3.38     2.42    BWR736E

     ELITE       17.4    9.55     2.96     1.84    BWR718E
                 22.2    9.30     2.96     2.08    BWR724E
                 29.0   10.00     2.96     1.88    BWR730E
                 34.4    9.30     3.00     2.20    BWR736E

     EXEC.PLUS   15.0    9.15     2.50     1.72    BWD712A-B
                 19.2    9.00     2.80     1.84    BWD718A-B
                 23.8    9.05     2.80     1.80    BWD724A-B
                 33.2    9.45     3.00     2.04    BWD736A-B
     EXECUTIVE   19.3    9.00     2.64     1.80    BWD718A-B
COMPANY         MBTUH    SEER    COP-47   COP-17   OUTSIDE NUMBER
TRANE
     XE 800      14.2    9.20     2.70     1.62    TWB712A
                 23.8    9.00     2.72     1.92    TWB724A
                 25.6    9.00     2.72     1.92    TWB727A
                 28.4    9.00     2.78     1.98    TWB730A
                 37.6    9.00     2.98     2.14    TWB736A
WHIRPOOL
   Whirlpool     18.1    9.30     2.90     2.00    NCHBA18
                 24.4    9.05     2.82     2.04    NCHAA24
                 29.8    9.50     3.00     2.00    NCHAA30
                 35.2    9.00     2.90     2.10    NCHAA35
WILLIAMSON
   5-IN-1        24.0    9.75     3.06     2.16    7320-02-2021
                 29.2    9.40     3.16     2.26    7320-25-2021
                 36.0    9.35     2.96     2.16    7320-03-2021

    YORK
     ECS SERIES  18.0    9.50     2.80     1.90    E1CS018A06
                 22.8    9.50     2.80     1.94    E1CS024A06
                 28.0    9.00     2.80     1.92    E1CS030A06
                 36.6    9.50     3.00     2.10    E1CS036A06
            
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHAIN SAW SELECTION	                              
-DOC-
                              CHAIN SAW SELECTION	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
There are a large number of types and sizes of chainsaws that are available on 
the market today.  The first decision that needs to be made is what will the 
saw be used for.  The two general types of saws are electric and gasoline 
powered.  The electric saws are suited for cutting only where you will be near 
a power source.  They start up easy and run quieter.	
	
However, if you intend to do any cutting in the woods, you should consider 
purchasing the gasoline powered saw.  The next decision then becomes a choice 
between a bar saw or a bow saw.  The bar saw is better suited to all types of 
cutting and is considered to be safer to operate.  Most homeowners will want a 
saw with a bar that is from 14 to 20 inches long.  This will enable them to cut 
trees from 24 to 36 inches in diameter.  The weight of these saws should be 
from 10 to 16 pounds.  You should be able to handle this weight without 
becoming overly fatigued.	
Select a saw that has enough power for the bar length chosen.  You should ask 
to be allowed to cut with a similar saw to judge if the power is adequate.  
The saw should feel good in your hands and be well balanced.  Consider the 
levels of vibration and noise generated.  Automatic oiling of the bar and chain 
is desirable.	
	
The next items to look for are in the category of safety features.  The chain 
brake is a good safety feature that has reduced serious injuries resulting from 
kickback.  Other features, such as low-kickback guide bars and safety tips 
removable from the end of the bar, have helped reduce kickback but are marketed 
only on certain saws.  Low-kickback chains reduce kickback energy.	
	
A knowledgeable dealer can be helpful when you purchase a saw and can provide 
needed parts and service.  Choosing a good dealer may be the most important 
part of selection that you do.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHAIN SELECTION	                                
-DOC-
                                CHAIN SELECTION	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
Chain selection should be based on the saw manufacturer's recommendations for 
the specific model.  Beyond this, consider the kickback characteristics of the 
chain and the cutter shape.	
	
Standard chain and low-kickback chain designs have been tested by Consumer 
Products Safety.  Results have shown that a low-kickback chain, which has a 
guard link or triple raker between the cutters, reduces kickback energy 
compared to standard chain.  This allows the operator to have more control as 
kickback severity is significantly reduced.  The cutting speed with low-
kickback chain is slightly reduced, but this should not be a factor for 
nonprofessional cutters.	
	
The shape of the top and side plates of the cutter will distinguish chisel-
types of chain from the chipper chain.  The chisel chain has straight side and 
top plates; on the chipper chain, they are rounded.  The chisel type is used 
more by professional cutters and, as a result of lower friction between the 
cutter and the wood, it is slightly faster running.  The chipper chain is more 
common on homeowner saws and is generally a little cheaper than the chisel 
type.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT	                         
-DOC-
                         PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
The modern chain saw cuts through wood very quickly.  When it breaks through 
the material, it can cut you.  One of the best safeguards against serious 
cutting injuries is proper protective clothing and equipment.	
	
Wear sturdy, snug-fitting clothes that allow complete freedom of movement.  
Avoid wearing loose-fitting clothes and jewelry.  Wear heavy-duty, nonslip 
gloves to improve your grip and protect your hands.  Always wear sturdy nonslip 
boots to ensure good footing when operating a chain saw.	
	
Since chips fly in all directions when you are cutting with a chain saw, you 
should always wear safety glasses or goggles.  A good hard hat may prevent 
serious head injury from falling branches or limbs.  Wear ear plugs or acoustic 
ear muffs to protect your hearing from the high noise level of the saw.  A hard 
hat equipped with protective ear muffs and face screen is even better.	
 
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHAIN SAW ACCESSORIES	                             
-DOC-
                             CHAIN SAW ACCESSORIES	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
When operating a chain saw in the woods, it is helpful to take along some 
helpful accessories.  A scabbard to cover the saw chain or a carrying case to 
hold the complete saw will prevent being cut by the saw chain during transport.  
A screwdriver and wrench are needed to adjust chain tension.  A round file and 
file guide are used to sharpen the chain.  If you are cutting for a long period 
of time, carry along an extra chain.  A good sharp axe and plastic or wooden 
wedges are also handy tools to carry to the woods.	
	
Store and transport fuel for the chain saw only in a properly labeled, heavy- 
gauge (26 gauge or heavier) metal or approved plastic container.  Always mix 
fuel and oil according to instructions in your owner's manual.  When refueling 
the engine, do so with a funnel or flexible nozzle to avoid spilling fuel on 
the engine.  If any is spilled, wipe the saw clean before starting the engine. 	
	
Use chain oil to lubricate the chain and bar while cutting.  Keeping the chain 
lubricated is necessary for safety as well as for prolonging the life of the 
chain and bar.	

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OPERATION -- GENERAL	                              
-DOC-
                              OPERATION -- GENERAL	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
The chain saw is a very dangerous tool if it is misused.  It is involved in 
about 30% of all woods accidents among professional loggers and poses the 
greatest single hazard in woods work.	
	
READ THE OWNER'S MANUAL !!  All chain saw manufacturers provide detailed 
operating and safety instructions with their saws.  Be thoroughly familiar with 
these and follow operating instructions.	
	
The inexperienced operator should begin by practicing on logs that are already 
on the ground.  Only after a great deal of practice should you attempt the more 
difficult cuts.	
	
NEVER CUT ALONE !! Always have someone else around in case you find yourself in 
an accident situation.  They can also be very helpful in the event that you get 
the chain saw in a bind.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEFORE YOU START CUTTING	                            
-DOC-
                            BEFORE YOU START CUTTING	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
A chain saw is a very dangerous tool for even the experienced operator.  If you 
are a beginner or an occasional user, you should understand proper use of the 
chain saw and be willing to treat it with the caution and respect it deserves.	
	
These are some of the common injuries resulting from improper chain saw use:	

   --Cuts by the chain on the underside of the guidebar while the chain is in 
     motion	
   --Cuts by the moving chain on the top side of the guidebar as a result of 
     kickback	
   --Injuries from overhead by wood or branches shaken loose by the tree 
     vibrating	
   --Possible hearing impairment from excessive noise	
   --Injuries from falling trees or rolling logs	
   --Falls, sprains, and strains while carrying or operating saws	
   --Injuries from improper handling during starting	
   --Burns from fires caused by exhaust sparks and improper fueling and fuel 
     storage	
     
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OPERATION -- KICKBACK	                             
-DOC-
                             OPERATION -- KICKBACK	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
Kickback is the most unpredictable of all saw hazards.  It occurs when the saw 
bar is thrown rapidly backward in a circular motion and pivots about the 
operator's hand at the saw handle.  Many times this causes a serious cutting 
injury, a loss of balance, or a loss of control of the saw.	
	
Kickback can occur when the saw chain is subjected to an abrupt change in wood 
characteristics, such as hitting a knot, running the chain too slowly, or 
twisting the saw so that the chain grabs.  When buying a saw, consider the 
safety features available to help prevent kickback accidents--antikickback 
chain, antikickback noseguards (safety tip), and chain brakes.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OPERATION -- BUCKING	                              
-DOC-
                              OPERATION -- BUCKING	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
Bucking is cutting the tree into desired lengths.  This is usually one of the 
less hazardous sawing tasks.  Some special bucking hazards are unexpected roll 
of logs and kickback.	
	
Maintain sure footing when working on hillsides and always work on the uphill 
side of the log.  Raise and chuck the trunk when possible.  Use levers, sturdy 
poles, or log jacks as much as possible.  Do all manual lifting with back- and 
strain-saving techniques in mind.	
	
A tree lying flat on the ground that is too big to lift can usually be cut 
partly through from the opposite side until free.  If the tree is partially 
supported, make the type of cut dictated by obstructions, support points, and 
general lay of the tree.	
	
Work from the ground, not the log.  Do not operate the saw above waist level.  
Hold it firmly with both hands and place the bumper shoe tightly against the 
log before accelerating the motor.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEFORE FELLING A TREE	                             
-DOC-
                             BEFORE FELLING A TREE	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
You should only attempt to fell a tree after you are completely familiar with 
the operation of the chain saw.  Inspect the tree to be felled and surrounding 
trees for hazards such as dead limbs, vines, etc.  A tree may lean or be 
unbalanced because of uneven top growth or breakage even though the trunk does 
not lean.  Large diameter branches are good indicators of imbalance.  
Prevailing wind direction affects tree growth and balance, and current wind 
conditions affect fall direction.	
	
An inexperienced operator should cut down trees only when conditions indicate a 
high degree of certainty as to which way the tree will fall.  Plan an exit 
route before starting.  Also, check the fuel supply before starting a cut that 
will require a long running period.  When refueling, always check chain-
lubricating oil and add oil if needed. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OPERATION -- FELLING	                              
-DOC-
                              OPERATION -- FELLING	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
Following the proper felling procedure will help to insure that the tree will 
fall in the direction that you want it to fall.  Make a notch or undercut on 
the side of the tree on which it is expected to fall.  It should have a depth 
of about one-third the diameter of the tree.  Make the lower notch cut first.  
This keeps the chain from binding and being pinched by the wedge of wood while 
the notch is made.	
	
Make the felling or back cut about 2 inches higher than the horizontal cut of 
the notch.  Keep the felling cut parallel with the horizontal notching cut, and 
stop the cut to leave wood fibers to act as a hinge.  This helps to keep the 
tree from twisting and falling in the wrong direction.	
	
Keep the guidebar of the saw in the middle of the cut so the cutters returning 
in the top groove do not recut the wood.  Do not twist the guidebar in the 
groove.  Instead guide the saw into the tree--do not force it.  The rate of 
feed will depend on the size and type of tree.	
Shut off the saw and remove it from the cut before the tree falls.  The tree 
will begin to fall as the felling cut approaches the hinge fibers.  Move to a 
safe spot away from the stump and look up for falling branches.	
	
Do not cut through the hinge fibers.  The tree could fall in any direction--
maybe in the direction of retreat.  A binding saw and closing cut (kerf) 
indicates an error in judgment.  At the first indication of such, remove the 
saw.  If you cannot remove the saw, do not struggle with it.  Instead, shut off 
the engine, clear the area, and plan a course of action using wedges to remove 
the saw.  Use only wooden, aluminum, or plastic wedges--steel or iron wedges 
may damage the chain.	


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OPERATION -- LIMBING	                              
-DOC-
                              OPERATION -- LIMBING	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
Many chain saw accidents occur during limbing.  An error may result in serious 
injury because of the saw's closeness to the operator's feet.  Cut the limbs on 
the top side of the trunk before removing those resting on the ground.  Use 
extra caution when cutting small diameter limbs; the slender material may catch 
in the saw and be whipped toward the operator.  Many times an axe is the best 
way to remove small limbs.	
	
Whenever possible, the cut should be made on the opposite side of the trunk 
from where the operator stands, using the trunk as a barrier.  If it is 
necessary to work with the saw on the same side, keep the saw to the side of 
the body so that it will not swing into the legs or head.  Avoid reaching with 
the saw and always maintain good footing and balance.  Always limb from the 
ground.  Do not walk the tree.	
	
Cutting branches resting on the ground to improve working conditions underfoot 
may be necessary as the work progresses.  The tree may sag or roll as each 
branch is cut.  Leave key branches stabilizing the tree until last.  A closing 
kerf signals the probability of kickback.  Keep the engine speed up--a slow-
moving chain is more likely to lock than one cutting freely at higher speeds.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHAIN SAW MAINTENANCE	                             
-DOC-
                             CHAIN SAW MAINTENANCE	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
Routine service and maintenance is necessary if you want your chain saw to 
perform satisfactorily and if you want ot avoid unnecessary repair bills.  
Chain saws require frequent care since they are often operated in dirty 
environments, are frequently overloaded by the operator, and sometimes are 
improperly fueled or lubricated.	 
	
Basic chain saw maintenance is often neglected even when trouble symptoms 
appear.  These symptoms may be disregarded for hours or even days since "it 
still cuts," although often improperly or inadequately.  Spend at least 15 to 30 
minutes servicing your saw for the day's use.  Use the owner's manual for 
regular service tips as well as for troubleshooting problems or for ordering 
parts.  The owner's manual should identify basic service tools needed if they 
are not provided with the saw.	
	
It is best to leave intricate repair work to professionals who repair small 
engines.  With some practice some of the basic service can be accomplished by 
the operator.	
  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AIR FILTER CLEANING	                              
-DOC-
                              AIR FILTER CLEANING	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
The air filter should be checked and cleaned if needed each time the saw is 
used.  Pull the choke out to prevent dirt falling into the carburetor.  Then 
remove the filter cover and the air filter.  Gently clean all dirt and sawdust 
from the carburetor air intake area.	
	
The air filter can be cleaned by brushing with a soft brush, blowing with 
compressed air, or washing.  Washing should be done with the liquid recommended 
for that filter.  Foam filters may be cleaned with a soap and water solution; 
gasoline is recommended for some plastic filters.  If the filter cannot be 
cleaned adequately or if it is damaged, replace it with a new one.  Full power 
cannot be achieved if the engine cannot get adequate air for combustion.	 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHAIN TIGHTENING	                                
-DOC-
                                CHAIN TIGHTENING	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
The chain tension should be checked on a regular basis and if it is loose the 
chain should be tightened.  The chain should not sag and should be able move 
freely on the guide bar.	
	
The sprocket cover nuts must be loosened in order to change the chain tension.  
Next, use a screwdriver to adjust the tensioning screw while holding the bar 
upward.  Tighten the cover nuts.  Make a few cuts with the saw and recheck the 
chain tension, readjusting if needed.	
	
The tension on the chain may change as the chain is heated up and stretches. 
Readjust on a regular basis if needed.  Running the saw with the chain too 
loose may allow the chain to come off of the guide bar and injure the operator.	
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHAIN SHARPENING AND CARE	                           
-DOC-
                           CHAIN SHARPENING AND CARE	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
Keeping the chain sharp is important to insure maximum cutting and minimum 
fatigue on the operator.  The telltale signs of a dull chain are fine sawdust 
being produced rather than chips, chain chatter, overheated bar, curved cuts, 
and the operator having to apply too much force.  Correct sharpening should 
eliminate these signs of poor performance and speed up the cutting job.	
	
Chain sharpening is best done by filing a little each time and filing often.  
Cutter and depth gauges for each chain are designed to be filed at specific 
angles with round, flat, or triangular files, depending on the chain.  The 
cutters and depth gauges can be hard sharpened while the chain is properly 
tensioned on the guide bar.  Refer to the owner's manual for the correct file 
and angles to be used for the type of chain used.	
	
If you do not feel comfortable sharpening your chain, take it to a service 
dealer.  Even if you sharpen your own, take it for professional sharpening 
after doing it five or six times yourself.  This will also allow the gullet of 
the cutters to be shaped more uniformly for smoother cutting.	
Turn the guide bar over after every couple of chain sharpenings.  This should 
keep the wear more uniform.  To prolong chain life when operating the saw, 
avoid hitting rocks, dirt, or other abrasive material.  Similarly, forcing a 
dull chain to cut can damage the chain, bar, sprocket, and clutch.  Use high-
quality chain oil.  Recommended oils have good adhesion properties that keep 
most of the oil on the chain and in the bar groove rather than being easily 
thrown from the end of the bar.  Oil must flow at low temperatures.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHAIN OILER MAINTENANCE	                            
-DOC-
                            CHAIN OILER MAINTENANCE	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
It is important to keep the chain properly lubricated to reduce wear and 
increase the life of the chain.  You should check the chain for proper 
lubrication on a regular basis while cutting.  Most saws have automatic oilers 
with a regulating screw for adjusting the oil flow rate.	
	
To check oil flow, rev up the engine.  Hold the nose of the bar a few inches 
away from a sheet of paper or a section of cut wood; a fine oil spray should 
appear off the end of the bar.  If it does not, rest the engine and try the 
manual oiler button if the saw has one.  If oil does not flow, refer to the 
owner's manual for service suggestions or take the saw to a dealer.  	
	
DO NOT CUT WITHOUT CHAIN-BAR LUBRICATION.  The oil flow should be set so that 
about a tank of oil is used for each tank of fuel.	
      
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FUEL QUALITY	                                  
-DOC-
                                  FUEL QUALITY	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
You should always use good quality fuel in your chain saw to avoid carburetor 
problems.  Use the recommended amount of two-cycle motor oil to be mixed with 
gasoline.  A separate container should be used for mixing rather than using the 
saw's tank.   Avoid mixing more fuel than will be used in a few months.	
	
Using the proper amount and type of oil is necessary for satisfactory engine 
lubrication.  With clean fuel it should not be necessary to replace the fuel 
filter, or the felt cover on some filters, before the recommended interval-- 
about 100 hours of operation.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPARK PLUG AND IGNITION MAINTENANCE	                      
-DOC-
                      SPARK PLUG AND IGNITION MAINTENANCE	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
It is very important that the saw start easily when the pull cord is pulled.  
Checking the spark plug on a regular basis can help reduce starting problems.  
The spark plug should be checked every 30 to 40 hours.  Replace a plug that is 
worn.  Clean and regap a plug that looks good but has excess electrode space.	
	
For a basic ignition test: disconnect the ignition wire, remove the plug, 
reconnect the plug, turn the ignition switch on, and with the plug held against 
a naked surface on the engine, pull the starter rope.  A powerful spark 
indicates the ignition is in working order.  Do not hold the metal end of the 
ignition wire in your hand because you can get a high charge when pulling the 
starter rope.	
	
Don't hold the electrode end of the plug near the spark plug hole since an 
explosion may result when the starter rope is pulled.  Ignition systems, 
whether they are magneto or solid state designs, are best left to the service 
dealer if they are believed to be defective.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHAIN SAW CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS	                        
-DOC-
                        CHAIN SAW CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
If the engine is overheating, misfiring, or stopping while accelerating or if 
the engine gives off dense smoke, carburetor adjustment is likely needed. The 
best advice, is to take it to a service dealer for repair or adjustment.  	
	
Typically, there are three carburetor adjustment screws:  high speed, low 
speed, and idle speed.  Carburetor adjustments are best made by starting with 
the manufacturer's basic adjustment settings and deviating slightly from this 
to account for the effects of atmospheric pressure, fuel quality, etc.  Make 
adjustments with a clean air filter and a warm engine.	
	
If the engine stops or the chain turns while idling, adjust the idle speed 
screw to just stop the chain while idling.  If the engine stops or runs 
erratically at idle speed or while accelerating, adjust the low speed screw.  
After doing this, the idle speed screw will likely need readjustment. 	
	
If the engine revs too high at full throttle or dense smoke is emitted, adjust 
the high speed screw to achieve a balance between a clean looking exhaust and 
proper engine speed.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EXHAUST SYSTEM MAINTENANCE	                           
-DOC-
                           EXHAUST SYSTEM MAINTENANCE	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
A clogged muffler  can cause considerable power loss;  thus , accumulations 
should be removed periodically.  The muffler should be unscrewed from the body 
and disassembled.  Remove any carbon or dirt deposits by scraping each of the 
parts.  Bring the piston to the top of its stroke by slowly pulling the 
starter handle.  This will close the exhaust port so any deposits can be 
removed by using a wooden scrapper (do not use a metal scrapper).  Blow these 
loose particles away before attaching the reassembled muffler.  Replace the 
spark screen if it is deteriorated.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COOLING FIN MAINTENANCE	                            
-DOC-
                            COOLING FIN MAINTENANCE	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
Wood chips and sawdust can buildup around the cooling fins and the exhaust 
system.  The cylinder ribs and the flywheel vanes should be cleaned regularly.  
This requires removing the housing about these cylinder cooling areas.  A small 
brush or compressed air can be used.	
	
When the starter rope assembly housing is removed for cleaning, inspect and 
replace the rope if it is frayed significantly.  Inspect other starter assembly 
parts at this time if spring action seems to be deteriorating.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FIRST AID -- HYPOTHERMIA	                            
-DOC-
                            FIRST AID -- HYPOTHERMIA	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
THIS INFORMATION WAS SUPPLIED BY DEANNA SPAULDING, A 4-HER IN THE SAFETY 
PROJECT.	

Have you ever been bone chilling cold?  If you have you may have experienced 
the beginning of Hypothermia.  

Hypothermia is where the temperature inside your body starts to go down. If the 
inside body temperature goes below 99 degrees shivering will begin and become 
intense and uncontrollable.  
     
If the temperature drops below 95 degrees, violent shivering will begin, and you 
will be unable to perform complex tasks. As the temperature continues to drop, 
your chances for survival become less and less. If the temperature inside your 
body goes below 78 degrees death will occur.  
                              HYPOTHERMIA (CONT.)	
Whats scary is that you can get Hypothermia when the outside temperature
is around 45 degrees, if the conditions are right Hypothermia will occur when 
heat is being lost from the body faster then the heat is being produced. There 
are three main factors that can cause this: coldness (though not necessarily 
extreme coldness), wetness due to rainfall, fog, snow, or falling in water.  
Also excessive sweating can be a factor; and the final factor wind. Have  you 
ever heard of the Wind Chill factor?  There are other factors, but these are 
the main ones.	 
	
If you or a friend begin to shiver  and can't stop, you need to take immediate 
action. First prevent future heat loss, put on another sweater etc.  or get 
close to some sort of heat source.  If the clothes are wet, change clothes. 
Next, get some warm liquids into yourself or your friend.              
                              HYPOTHERMIA (CONT.)	
The most important key to hypothermia is prevention. If you know  you 
are going to be outside prepare for the cold. Wear clothes that you can take off
easily if you will be  working. This is to cut down on the amount of sweating 
that will take place. Then when you stop, don't wait until you get cold, go 
ahead and put your coat back on. If you get wet, change clothes. Remember to 
cover neck and head. It has been discovered by doctors that heat loss is so 
rapid from an un-protected neck and head that 50% of the bodies total heat 
production may be lost at 40 degrees. This may be why the old  mountain people 
say "When your feet are cold,put on your hat." For more information about 
Hypothermia consult a good Backpacking book.  



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HAVE A FIRE ESCAPE PLAN	                            
-DOC-
                            HAVE A FIRE ESCAPE PLAN	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	

    Many persons, especially young children, die in home fires because they 
make mistakes when trying to get out of a burning house.  Since most people 
have never experienced a fire in their home, their first reaction is panic.  
To assure that everyone gets out of the house safely, every family should have 
an escape plan.  Families who have an escape plan and have practiced it are 
less likely to panic.  With an escape plan their chances of surviving a fire 
are increased.	
	
    The greatest number of fatal home fires occurs between midnight and 6 a.m.  
Thus, you should be sure that there is a working smoke detector on every level 
of your house and especially one outside each sleeping area.  The next step is 
to develop an escape plan to get out of your home once the smoke detector 
awakens you.	
	
    The following are some guidelines for establishing an escape plan:	
1.  Survey the entire house to determine the best exit (primary) from each 
    room, giving special attention to bedrooms.
2.  Next, determine an emergency escape exit (this secondary exit is generally 
    a window, and in some rooms there is only one exit--the door); for 
    example, you may not be able to leave through the door of a bedroom if 
    fire has broken out in the house's interior.  Test the windows, screen, or 
    storm sash to be sure they can be opened in an emergency.	
3.  Draw a floor plan of the house with rooms, doors, and windows identified.  
    If there is more than one floor, show any ledge, roof, or deck that can be 
    used for escape.	
4.  Put arrows on the plan to indicate "normal" or "emergency" exits so TWO 
    ESCAPE ROUTES CAN BE PLANNED FOR EACH ROOM.	
5.  Decide on a common way to sound a family fire alarm, especially if smoke 
    alarms are not present or if they can't be heard by everyone.	
6.  Decide on an OUTSIDE MEETING PLACE for the entire family so that everyone 
    can be accounted for.  Put this on the plan.	
7.  ONCE OUT OF THE HOUSE, STAY OUT.	
8.  Go over the ESCAPE PLAN with the entire family and PRACTICE IT at least 
    twice a year.	
9.  POST THE FLOOR PLAN WITH ESCAPE ROUTES in a prominent place to ensure 
    familiarity with it.	
10. Escape from upper floor windows by using chain ladders.	
     Fire professionals recommend sleeping with the bedroom door closed.  When 
the alarm goes off, test the door for heat.  If it is hot, use the emergency 
escape route.  If it is not hot, and you think it is safe, open the door 
cautiously.  Stay low and crawl when there is smoke and you have decided the 
main exit is safe.  Get out fast and do not try to carry valuables or 
belongings.  Send someone to call the fire department and check to see that 
everyone is safely out.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TORNADOES	                                    
-DOC-
                                    TORNADOES	
                   Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
  1.  Tornadoes are the most violent of all wind storms.

  2.  These storms can occur anytime, but usually between the months of    
      March and September.  In the Southeast, the season usually starts in 
      March.

  3.  They usually occur during warm, humid, and unsettled weather. They 
      come out of severe thunderstorms.

  4.  A tornado WATCH is:
      Alerting people that there is a chance of dangerous weather.

  5.  A tornado WARNING is:
      Tornado has been sighted and you need to take immediate action to  
      protect yourself.
  6.  A waterspout is a tornado that forms over water.  They are often 
      associated with Hurricanes.


  BE ABLE TO RECOGNIZE THE DANGER SIGNS

  1.  Severe thunder storms contain

     -thunder,
     -lightening
     -heavy rains
     -strong winds
     -hail 

  2.  Roaring noise
    	
     -like a train
     -a mack truck
     -a whirl wind
     -crashing thunderous sound
  3.  A funnel cloud
     -dark, spinning "rope"
     -column from the sky

    WHERE TO GO IN CASE OF A TORNADO


                                Away  From  Home


     -In office bulidings go into an interior hallway on a lower floor   
      or a designated shelter.

     -In factories go to area of plant offering greatest protection

     -In schools go into hallway or follow the advice of a teacher.

     -In shopping centers seek shelter inside a solidly built building or go	
      to local shelter.
     -If in open country, move away from the torando's path at right angles.  
      (This is difficult to do in the Southeast.) If there is not enough time,	
      lie flat in a ditch, culvert, or get under a bridge. 
       	

                                    At  Home


     -Go to the most protected and strongest part of your basement.

     -If you do not have a basement, go to the lowest level in the center of	
      the house.  Get in a small room (bathroom) or closet. 
   	
     -Then protect yourself by getting under heavy furniture.

     -Listen to radio for instructions.  A radio with a Weather Alert Alarm can	
      be purchased for less than $40.  NOAA Weather Radio stations are in 
      Charleston, Florence, Columbia, Greer, Augusta, and Athens.

     -If you are in a moble home:  move to a shelter immediately.  DO NOT STAY	
      IN A MOBILE HOME.
      Be Aware of Dangers During a Tornado 
     	
     -flying objects                
     -falling trees                 
     -breaking windows              
     -collapsing bulidings          
     -damaged power line
    	
     -Stay in your position for 5 minutes after tornado passes. 

     -For more information about tornadoes and other severe weather contact 
      your closest National Weather Service office.  
	
	
THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION ON TORNADOES WAS SUPPLIED BY DEANNA SPALDING A 4-HER	
FROM PICKENS COUNTY WORKING IN THE SAFETY PROJECT.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
QUALITY OF WATER FOR IRRIGATION                       
-DOC-
                       QUALITY OF WATER FOR IRRIGATION
                C.V. Privette Extension Agricultural Engineer 

     Almost all natural water contains some dissolved minerals.  To determine 
whether a source of water is suitable for irrigation, it is necessary to 
examine the characteristics of the water.  The important characteristics are:

     the total concentration of soluble salts,
     the relative proportion of sodium to the other cations,
     the bicarbonate concentration as related to the concentration of 
       calcium and magnesium ions,
     the concentration of toxic elements,
     the total concentration of chlorides.

     Chemical constituents most often found dissolved in water are the 
cations--calcium, magnesium, and sodium--and the anions--chloride, sulfate, and
bicarbonate--each of which separately or in combination, if found in excess 
quantities, can be detrimental to crop growth.  These minerals plus others
combine to determine the electrical conductance of water expressed in millimhos
per centimeter (mmhos/cm).
     The effect of these salts if present in the soil water system in excess 
amounts are reduced crop growth and/or poor soil structure.  Crop growth is 
affected because of a limiting of the water supply to the plant resulting from 
an increase in the osmotic pressure of the soil-water solution and an increase 
in the soil moisture tension as compared to a plant growing in a soil-water 
system where salts are not present.  Because of this, crops growing on salt
affected fields require irrigation more frequently than those growing on soils 
low in salt content.

     If sodium salts are present in large amounts in irrigation water, the 
sodium ions may be absorbed in the soil particles causing the clay particles to
become dispersed when wet and resulting in unfavorable soil physical 
conditions.  Also, the soil will have a very low permeability.  If calcium and 
magnesium ions are present in the soil in a quantity equal to or exceeding the 
quantity of sodium ions, the calcium and magnesium will be retained in the clay
particles and good tilth and permeability will be maintained.  The ability of 
the soil to absorb sodium is expressed as the sodium absorption ratio (SAR).
                Interpretation of Water Quality for Irrigation 

     Irrigation Problem                       Degree of Problem
                                                         Increasing     Severe
                                       No Problem         Problem      Problem
Salinity

  Electrical Conductivity (mmhos/cm)     <0.75         0.75-3.0          >3.0  
  Total dissolved Salts (mg/l)           <480          480-1920          >1920

Specific Ion Toxicity
    
  Chloride (mg/l)                        <142          142-355           >355  
  Boron (mg/l)                           <0.75         0.75-2.0          >2.0 
                                                        
 
Miscellaneous Effects

  Nitrate Nitrogen (mg/l)                <5              5-30            >30 
  Bicarbonate (meq/l)                    <1.5          1.5-8.5           >8.5
     pH                                           Normal Range 6.5-8.4
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Salinity                                  
-DOC-
                                 Salinity 
                 C.V. Privette Extension Agricultural Engineer

     The presence or absence of a potential salinity problem is evaluated from 
the electrical conductivity of the irrigation water (EC) and by the Total 
Dissolved Salts (TDS).  These two values by themselves are usually an adequate 
measure of a salinity problem.
     When using any brackish or saline water for irrigation purposes, the 
following guides should be followed:
1. Test the water to determine its electrical conductivity.  This is most 
   important for surface sources of water which may exhibit a large change in 
   salinity from one period to another.                       
2. Allow for a difference in electrical conductivity due to wind tides.  Again 
   this applies to surface water sources.
3. Know the salt tolerance of the crop being irrigated.
4. Consider the stage of growth of the crop.
5. When using water of high electrical conductivity, irrigate during the late 
   afternoon, early morning or at night.
6. Consider the internal drainage of the soil and limit the frequency of 
   application and the total amount of saline water to that value.  Soils with 
   restricted internal drainage will accumulate salts more readily than well 
   drained sands or sandy loam soils.
     Salinity added to the soil from using saline waters accumulates in the 
soil.  To remove these salts from the soil, water in excess of that needed for 
irrigation is necessary to leach these salts below the root zones of the crops.
In South Carolina, winter rainfall is normally adequate to accomplish the 
required leaching.  Table 1 gives the number of one-inch irrigations possible, 
using various salinity level waters between leaching rains.
TABLE  1.  PERMISSIBLE NUMBER OF IRRIGATIONS WITH BRACKISH WATER BETWEEN 
           LEACHING RAINS FOR CROPS OF DIFFERENT SALT TOLERANCE. 
     Irrigation water              Irrigation for crops having:      
_____________________________    ________________________________________
                  EC             Good salt     Moderate salt    Poor salt
Total salts  (mmhos/cm @ 25 C)   tolerance     tolerance        tolerance
    (ppm)                         (number)     (number)          (number)
_________________________________________________________________________
       640          1               N/A           15                 7
     1,280          2               11            7                  4
     1,920          3               7             5                  2
     2,560          4               5             3                  2
     3,200          5               4             2-3                1
     3,840          6               3             2                  1
     4,480          7               2-3           1-2                
     5,120          8               2             1                   
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ION TOXICITY - SODIUM, CHLORIDE, BORON                      
-DOC-
                      ION TOXICITY - SODIUM, CHLORIDE, BORON
                  C.V. Privette Extension Agricultural Engineer 

     A toxicity problem is different from a salinity problem in that a toxicity
occurs within the crop itself as a result of the uptake and accumulation of 
certain constituents from the irrigation water and may occur even when the 
salinity is low.  The toxic constituents of concern are sodium, chloride, and 
boron.  They can reduce yields and cause crop failure.  Not all crops are 
equally sensitive but most tree crops and other woody perennial-type plants are
sensitive.  Toxicity problems of sodium and chloride, however, can occur with 
almost any crop if concentrations are high enough.  Toxicity problems often 
accompany and are a complicating part of a salinity problem.  Sprinkler 
irrigation may cause special toxicity problems due to sodium and chloride being
absorbed through the leaves.

     Most tree crops such as deciduous fruits and nuts and other woody-type 
perennial plants are particularly sensitive to low concentrations of sodium.  
Most annual crops, with some exceptions, are not as sensitive but may be 
affected by higher concentrations.
                                   Sodium

     Use of irrigation water high in sodium will usually result in a soil high 
in sodium but it may take several irrigations to cause the change.  The crop 
takes up sodium with the water and it is concentrated in the leaves as water is
lost by transpiration.  Damage (toxicity) can result if sodium accumulates to 
concentrations that exceed the tolerance of the crop.  Leaf burn, scorch, and 
dead tissue along the outside edges of leaves are typical symptons.

     Sodium toxicity is often modified and reduced if calcium and magnesium are
also present.  Moderate amounts of calcium and magnesium may reduce sodium 
damage and higher amounts may even prevent it.  Since the effect of sodium is 
dependent on the sodium, calcium and magnesium concentrations, a reasonable 
evaluation of the potential toxicity is possible using the sodium adsorption 
ratio (SAR), which is a ratio of the sodium versus calcium and magnesium in the
irrigation water.
     The symptoms of sodium toxicity occur first on the oldest leaves since a 
period of time (days or weeks) is normally required before accumulation reaches
toxic concentrations.  Symptoms usually appear as a burn or drying of tissue at
the outer edges of the leaf and as severity increases, the symptoms progress 
inward between the veins towards the center of the leaf.
                                 Chloride

     Most tree crops and other woody perennial plants are sensitive to low 
concentrations of chloride while most annual crops are not, though less 
sensitive crops may be affected at higher concentrations.  Chloride is not 
adsorbed by soils but moves readily with the soil water.  It is taken up by the
roots and moves upward to accumulate in the leaves.  The toxicity symptom for 
chloride is a leaf burn or drying of leaf tissues which typically occurs first 
at the extreme leaf tip of older leaves and progresses back along the edges as 
severity increases.  Excessive leaf burn is often accompanied by abnormal early
leaf drop and defoilation.
                                    BORON
     Boron is one of the essential elements for plant growth but is needed in 
relatively small amounts.  If excessive, boron becomes toxic.  The sensitivity 
to boron appears to affect a wide variety of crops while sodium and chloride 
toxicities are most common with tree crops and woody perennials.

     Boron is taken up by the crop and is accumulated in the leaves and other 
parts of the plant.  Toxicity symptoms typically show first on older leaf tips 
and edges as either a yellowing, spotting, or drying of leaf tissues (or these 
in combination).  The yellowing or spotting in some cases is followed by drying
which progresses from near the tip along the leaf edges and toward the center 
between the veins (interveinal).  A gummosis or exudate on limbs or trunk is 
also sometimes very noticeable on seriously affected trees such as peaches.

     Many sensitive crops show toxicity symptoms when boron concentrations in 
leaf blades exceed 250 to 300 ppm (dry weight).  Some crops, however, are 
sensitive but do no accumulate boron in leaf blades.  Stonefruits (peaches, 
plums, almonds, etc.) and pome fruits (pear, apple, and others) even though 
being damaged by boron, may not accumulate boron in leaf tissue to the extent 
that leaf analysis is a reliable test.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORROSIVE WATER                              
-DOC-
                              CORROSIVE WATER
                C.V. Privette Extension Agricultural Engineer

     One other problem found in some surface waters and ground water is low pH 
or acidity.  Normally the acid surface waters are found in swampy areas in the 
eastern part of the state.  Acid ground water which is also highly corrosive and
aggressive is found in eight counties along the fall line.  Producers planning 
on irrigating with ground water in this area should have the water tested.  The
water test should provide the temperature, total dissolved solids (residue     
dissolved), calculated hardness, total alkalinity, total acidity and pH.  From 
these values one can determine whether or not the water will be corrosive and 
if water treatment will be required.  The Clemson Agricultural Service Lab. can
run these, but the accompanying forms should clearly designate that values for 
acidity, alkalinity, and hardness are desired.  The forms are available through
the county extension office.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OTHER WATER QUALITY PROBLEMS                        
-DOC-
                        OTHER WATER QUALITY PROBLEMS
                C.V. Privette Extension Agricultural Engineer
                    
NITRATE NITROGEN   Nitrogen in the irrigation water acts the same as fertilizer
nitrogen and excesses will cause problems just as fertilizer excesses cause 
problems.  Production of nitrogen sensitive crops may be affected at nitrogen 
concentrations above 5 mg/L (5ppm).  Sugar beets, for example, under excessive 
nitrogen fertilization grow to a large size but with low purity and low sugar 
content and the amount of sugar produced per acre may actually be reduced.  
Grape vines, in some instances, grow too vigorously and yields are reduced, or 
the grapes are late in maturing.  Maturity of stonefruits may also be delayed 
and the fruit may be poorer in quality.  For many grasses and grain crops, 
lodging may result from excessive vegetative growth.

     At more than 30 mg/L (30 ppm), severe problems are expected with nitrogen 
sensitive crops.  For crops not sensitive, more than 30 mg/L nitrogen may be 
adequate for high crop production and little or no fertilizer nitrogen may be 
needed.  Less than 5 mg/L nitrogen has little effect even for the nitrogen 
sensitive crops.  However, algae and aquatic plants in streams, lakes, ponds 
and canals are often affected.  When temperature, sunlight, and other nutrients
are optimum, very rapid growth or algae blooms can occur.  This excessive 
growth may result in plugged pipelines, sprinklers, and valves.
BICARBONATE  Bicarbonate, even at very low concentrations, has been a problem 
primarily when fruit crops or nursery crops are sprinkler irrigated during 
periods of very low humidity (RH < 30%) and high evaporation.  Under these 
conditions, white deposits are formed on fruit or leaves which are not washed 
off by later irrigation.  The deposit reduces the marketability of fruit and 
nursery plants.

     A toxicity is not involved but as the water on the leaves partially or 
completely evaporates between rotations of the sprinkler, the salts are 
concentrated and carbon dioxide is lost to the atmosphere.  If the 
concentration effect carbon dioxide loss is great enough, the less soluble 
constituents in the water, such as lime (calcium carbonate) will precipitate 
and deposit on fruit and leaves.
OTHER MINERALS  Several other minerals are found in groundwater and to some 
extent in surface waters that might present problems in irrigation.  Much of 
the groundwater contains iron.  In drip irrigation systems this material causes
severe clogging problems.  With proper filtration it can be removed from the 
water, but the cost of filtration is fairly high.  Plants that are sprinkled 
with water containing iron will have the leaves coated with brown stain.  Iron 
bacteria, a living parasite organism, is found in some groundwater.  This 
material feeds on metal portions of the water system and can cause severe 
clogging problems in drip irrigation systems.  Copper is present in some 
waters.  There have been some reports of crops such as tobacco that was 
sprinkler irrigated with water containing copper and the tobacco was hard to 
cure and the leaves had a slick grayish film on them.  Normally this is a very 
isolated problem.

ALGAE  Algae and weed growth in surface water supplies cause  clogging problems
with all types of irrigation systems.  Certainly, it will be more  severe  with
drip systems.   Sand  and sediment in  water  causes excessive wear on pump 
parts, primarily impellers, seals, and casings. In drip irrigation systems, it 
increases the cost of filtration.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WASTEWATER USED FOR IRRIGATION                        
-DOC-
                        WASTEWATER USED FOR IRRIGATION
                C.V. Privette Extension Agricultural Engineer

     Wastewater, that is water containing waste from municipal waste treatment 
plants, industrial plants, food processing facilities, and livestock feeding 
operations will contain various amounts of nutrients, organic material to 
include solids of various sizes, and possibly heavy metals.  These waters can 
be used for irrigation, but the amount of water that can be applied and the 
crops to which it can be applied will be dictated by the quality of the 
wastewater.  The types of equipment through which these waters can be applied 
will be limited again depending on the type of waste.  These waters can be 
corrosive and system life may be limited and maintenance requirements will be 
increased.  Water containing human and animal waste should not be applied to 
crops that are consumed as a raw product.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING MICROCOMPUTER PROGRAMS               
-DOC-
               AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING MICROCOMPUTER PROGRAMS
              Francis J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

Extension Agricultural Engineering Currently Supports the following 
Microcomputer programs.  The programs are available free of charge to South 
Carolina residents.  Programs are available on 5 1/4 inch IBM or IBM 
compatible disks only.  Please route all requests through your county agents 
office.

    Name                          Program Description
 ----------- ----------------------------------------------------------------
CALIB.WK1    LOTUS-123 template for band and broadcast sprayer calibration 
             calculations.  Results are given for gallons per treated acre, 
             proper amounts of pesticide to add to the tank and acres covered 
             per hour.

COST.WK1     LOTUS-123 template for quick and dirty calculations of machinery 
             operation costs.  This template requires a fair amount of 
             information from the user.  A more detailed description of input 
             and output is contained in the printed documentation.
DRAFT.WK1    LOTUS-123 template to calculate the horsepower requirements for 
             several common tillage and planting implements in South Carolina.

INSULATE.WK1 LOTUS-123 template comparing the total heat loss from a home for 
             various levels of insulation.  Insulation levels in the floors, 
             walls, ceilings and windows can be compared on a relative basis.

IRRICOST.WK1 LOTUS-123 template for calculating the cost of owning and 
             operating irrigation equipment.  New cost, pump power 
             requirement, flow rate, and acres irrigated are part of the input 
             information required of the user.  A more detailed description of 
             input and output is contained in the printed documentation.

IRRISCHD.WK1 LOTUS-123 template for estimating the percent of available soil 
             moisture as a guide in scheduling crop irrigation in South 
             Carolina.  Inputs required are daily maximum and minimum 
             temperature, precipitation/irrigation and available soil 
             moisture.

SHRINK.WK1   LOTUS-123 template for computing grain shrinkage for different 
             combinations of initial and final moisture contents.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COOLING DAIRY COWS                              
-DOC-
                              COOLING DAIRY COWS
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

High temperatures cause dairy cows, especially those at high levels of 
production, a great amount of stress.   Dairymen can use structural and 
mechanical means to improve cow comfort on hot days.  


PRIORITY ONE -
   The first line of defense in relieving heat stress is to improve and use 
existing facilities to the best advantage. Paint roofs on barns, feeders, and 
holding areas with a highly reflective white paint. Enclosed structures should 
have some or all of the siding removed and ventilators installed at the peak of 
the roof. Where possible remove obstructions to air movement in and around 
dairy shelters. Also, employ high levels of management to maintain the comfort 
and cleanliness of resting and feeding areas.  

PRIORITY TWO -
   Install cooling equipment in permanent structures. Large (36 to 48 inch 
diameter) belt-driven electric fans perform well in moving and mixing air.  
They are effective up to 50 feet in front of the fan in dairy shelters. Also, 
install fogging or sprinkling nozzles at about 20-foot intervals above shaded 
alleys, holding areas, and feeder space. These water application devices are 
especially helpful when used with fan ventilation. Select nozzles that can 
efficiently cool the air and/or cool the cows. Develop the details of cooling 
nozzle selection, installation, and operation  with professional assistance to 
assure effective and economic operation.  

PRIORITY THREE - 
   Sometimes new structures are justified where there are no existing 
facilities to shade the cows. When planning and constructing permanent barns, 
feeding areas, and holding areas, follow these principles as closely as 
possible.  
         1. Orient the structure with the long axis in the east/west directions.
         2. Select a site which makes the best use of summer winds which
            usually come from the west, south, and southwest.  
         3. Construct the roof at least 6 feet above the animals. Use a white  
            or bright roofing material. Provide ventilation at peak of roof.
         4. Minimize use of permanent and temporary building features which
            obstruct air movement.
         5. Consider convenience of location to the milking barn, feed and 
            water facilities, and the waste management system.  

   Temporary shades are an alternative to permanent new facilities for cooling 
cows. Use metal or wood frames with a shade cloth cover which gives 85 to 90% 
shade. Shades should be portable and provide 20 to 25 square feet of shaded 
area per cow.  Move shades often to prevent excessive manure and mud. Orienting 
the long axis of a portable shade in the north/south directions provides the 
greatest shaded area under and near the structure.  

   Experience has shown that animals prefer natural shade to artificial shade 
when given the choice. Natural shade then, if adequate, may be best.  However, 
where natural shade provides inadequate shaded area it can result in dirty cows 
and may kill the trees. Natural shade may also be remote and lead to reduced 
feed and water consumption.  

   Finally, consider these limitations to the use of permanent facilities for 
summer shade. 1) It will be necessary to remove manure from the shaded area 
daily. 2) Increased management and maintenance of free stalls and/or other 
facilities used for shade are necessary.  





-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
-END-
-DOC-















-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WATER SAFETY                                  
-DOC-
                                  WATER SAFETY
                  Jack W. Davis, Extension Safety Specialist	
	
      Someone is drowning!  What should you do?  The first reaction of 
most people is to try to save them. How?  By swimming out there and 
rescuing them.  NO!  NO!  NO!.  That is not what you should do.  

LIFESAVING     

     1.  Don't ever swim out to rescue a drowning person unless you have had 
         a course in lifesaving.  There are many water accidents each year 
         where a rescuer also drowns.  

     2.  You can not save anyone if you drown too.

     3.  The first thing you learn in lifeguard training (lifesaving 
         classes) is reach, throw, row and tow.	 
            a. Reach for the victim first.
            b. Throw something to the victim.
            c. Row-use a boat if available.
            d. Tow as a last resort, go in after the victim, only if you have 
               lifesaving training.  
     4.  Reaching Assists
            a. If someone is drowning near shore, hold a pole, oar, long 
               stick, shirt, towel or anything close by for him to grab.  
            	
            b. Wade  out from shore a little if it is not very deep and the 
               water is not very fast.  Do not wade out unless you know 
               the bottom is safe.  

     5.  Throwing Assists
            a. If someone is drowning further out, throw or push something to 
               him.  
            	
            b. Examples:   push a  boat, spare tire (it floats). ice chests  
               or throw a plastic milk jug, life jacket etc.  Anything  
               that will float will work-anything for the victim to hang 
               onto.  

            c. Try not to hit him when throwing him something.

            d. If a rope is around, tie it to something that floats and throw 
               to him.  Then pull him in.  
      6.  Rowing Assists
            a.  If the victim is very far out and a boat is available, row or 
                paddle out to him.  
            	
            b.  Once you get to him, DO NOT let him grab hold of the  side of 
                the boat.  He could turn it over.  Have him grab the back of 
                the boat.  
            	
            c.  It is best then to have him hold on as you paddle to shore.   
                If he must get in, be very careful not to rock the boat while 
                standing up.  
            	
            d.  If the boat does tip over, hang on to it.  It will float.  
            	
            e.  If the boat does tip over and you manage to turn it right side 
                up, it will be filled with  water.  Get into the boat (it 
                will float) and start paddling back to shore.  
SWIMMING SAFETY

     1.  Never swim by yourself, no matter how good of swimmer you are.  

     2.  It is always much safer to swim where a lifeguard is on duty.  
    
     3.  If you are in charge of small children, never take your eyes off of 
         them around water.  They can fall in and drown quickly.  
    	
     4.  If you are just learning to swim, stay in shallow water.

     5.  People who are poor swimmers, or can't swim, should not float on 
         tubes, rafts or even try to water ski.  

     6.  Even if you are a good swimmer, you may get a cramp or get tired.  
         Never attempt a long swim, unless you have a boat following you.  
     7.  If you get a cramp in your arm, leg or foot while you are swimming;
         No big deal.  
            a.  Stop and stretch it.  Hold your breath, reach down and work it 
                out.  You will float.  
            	
            b.  It is a technique called drown-proofing.
            	
            c.  If you feel a cramp coming on, change the way you are 
                swimming.	
         	
     8.  It is recommended that you Never swim at night in the ocean, a lake, 
         river, pond or unlighted swimming pool. This is especially true in the 
         ocean, where a lot of fish feed at night.  
 
     9.  Never call for help around water unless you need it.  If you need 
         it, yell, wave your arms, etc.  

For more information on water safety, contact your American Red Cross Office, 
your local YMCA or YWCA.
	
This information was supplied by Deanna Spalding, a 4-Her from Pickens County 
working in the Safety Project.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COOLING AND STORAGE OF VEGETABLE CROPS                                         
-DOC-

              COOLING AND STORAGE OF VEGETABLE CROPS                           
                    by: Gerald D. Christenbury 
	
     Cooling will help extend the shelf life of fresh vegetables.  
Precooling and storage cooling require different equipment and 
procedures.  Precooling is the removal of field heat  from 
freshly harvested products in sufficient time to prevent spoilage 
and to maintain all possible preharvest freshness and flavor.  
Timing is of utmost importance in all precooling operations.  
Storage cooling is the preservation of the storage temperature 
over an extended period. 	
     Types of precooling include hydrocooling, vacuum cooling, 
air cooling, and cooling with contact ice and top ice.  The 
choice of cooling method depends upon many factors, such as 
refrigeration sources and costs, volume of product shipped, cost 
factors, and product limitations.  Most vegetables are subject to 
chilling injury if cooled below 32 degrees. 	
     Table 1 on the next page shows the ice required to 
cool some vegetables from harvest temperature to storage 
temperature.  Table 2 shows desirable storage conditions. 	

Table 1.  Ice requirements for precooling selected vegetables*.	
 ----------------------------------------------------------------	
commodity  specific heat  respiration      LBS(ice)/Lb(produce) 	
              BTU/lb       BTU/lb/day       70F    80F    90F	
 ----------------------------------------------------------------	
beans(snap)     0.91       3.77 @ 40F     0.180  0.240  0.230	
beans(lima)     0.73       2.6  @ 40F      .144   .192   .240	
broccoli        0.92       2.2  @ 32F      .243   .307   .371	
cabbage(late)   0.94       0.97 @ 32F      .248   .313   .379	
cantaloupes     0.94       1.03 @ 40F      .197   .247   .309	
corn-sweet      0.79       4.65 @ 32F      .208   .263   .318	
okra            0.92       6.05 @ 40F      .182   .242   .303	
peppers(sweet)  0.94       1.6  @ 50F      .116   .174   .232	
squash(summer)  0.95       1.8  @ 40F      .188   .250   .313	
tomatoes(ripe)  0.95       1.55 @ 50F      .117   .176   .235	
 ----------------------------------------------------------------	
*These values do not inculde heat loss to the outside or heat of 
respiration.	
USEFUL CONVERSION FACTORS.	 
     melting 1 pound of ice absorbs 144 BTU's	
     Raising 1 pound of water 1 degree F takes 1 BTU	
     1 ton of refrigeration will melt 83.3 pounds of ice per hour	

Table 2.  Storage requirements for some crops:	
 ----------------------------------------------------------------	
commodity      storage       relative         storage      	
               temp  F       humidity %        life         	
 ----------------------------------------------------------------	
beans-snap      40-45         90-95          7-10 days   	
beans-lima      32-40         90-95          3-5 days	
broccoli         32            95            10-14 days	
cabbage(late)    32           95-100         5-6 months	
collards         32            95            10-14 days	
corn(sweet)      32            95            5-8 days	
okra            45-50         90-95          7-10 days	
peppers(sweet)  45-50         90-95          2-3 weeks	
potatoes(sweet) 55-61         85-90          4-7 months	
squash(summer)  32-50         85-95          5-14 days	
tomatoes(ripe)  45-50         85-90          4-7 days	
 ----------------------------------------------------------------	
	
     Not all commodities require the same storage temperature.  
Some are much more succeptible to chill injury than other.  Most 
require high humidity which necessitates the addition of moisture 
to prevent undesirable moisture loss.

SELECTION OF PRECOOLING METHOD	
     Packinghouse size and operating procedures, response of 
product to precooling method, and market demands, largely dictate 
the type of precooling method used.  For example, vacuum 
precooling is most effective on lettuce and other similar 
vegetables.  Hydrocooling meets the needs of most peach packers.  
Sweet corn is usually hydrocooled.  A variety of commodities can 
be cooled with air.	 
     Forcing cool air through produce will lower its temperature.  
Baffles and ventilated containers are required to force air 
uniformly through the product.  Forced air cooling usually cools in 
one-fourth to one-tenth the time needed for conventional room 
cooling but it still takes two to three times longer than 
hydrocooling or vacuum cooling.	 
     Icing is still being used for some operations.  Melting ice 
cools produce to 32 to 34 F and will hold as long as ice remains.	
     Cost becomes a major consideration if you have a choice of 
cooling method.  A forced air system can be as efficient as 
hydrocooling if rapid cooling is not required.  Icing may be the 
most cost effective for many South Carolina growers.	 
     












































-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SET-UP FOR DANISH TINE FIELD CULTIVATOR	             
-DOC-
             SET-UP FOR DANISH TINE FIELD CULTIVATOR	
                    by: Gerald D. Christenbury	
	
     The danish tine field cultivator is a very popular tool for 
seedbed preparation and herbicide incorporation.  The tool is 
lightweight, low cost, and effective.  Unfortunately the tine 
arrangement for handling trash is not acceptable for 
incorporating a herbicide.  Care must be taken to insure proper 
tine arrangement for best results.	
     The following three pages show how the 4-row danish tine 
field cultivator should be set up for proper herbicide 
incorporation and for handling trash.  Unfortunately, most of the 
machines are delivered for handling trash and must be adjusted 
for shallow mix herbicide incorporation.  
                   []                   []
       ================================================	
             |                                  |
1st row-|-------|-------|-------|-------|-------|-------|
             |                                  |
             |                                  |
2nd row-----|-------|-------|-------|-------|-------|---
             |                                  |
             |                                  |
3rd row-------|-------|-------|-------|-------|-------|-
             |                                  |       
             |                                  |       
4th row---|-------|-------|-------|-------|-------|-----
             |                                  |       
       ================================================= 	
Figure 1.  Tine arrangement for incorporating herbicides.

Note:1.  The 2nd row of tines should exactly divide the first row.  
     2.  The 3rd row set to the right of the 2nd row 4 inches.	
     3.  The 4th row set to the left of the 2nd row 4 inches.	
    With this arrangement the final result is that every 4 inches 
there is a tine so that all the soil will be disturbed with one 
pass of the cultivator.	 
Most machines come setup to handle trash such as in Figure 2.


                   []                        []
       ====================================================	
             |                                       |	
1st row--|-------|-------|-------|-------|-------|-------|-
             |                                       |
             |                                       |
2nd row|-------|-------|-------|-------|-------|-------|---
             |                                       |
             |                                       |
3rd row------|-------|-------|-------|-------|-------|-----
             |                                       |
             |                                       |     	
4th row----|-------|-------|-------|-------|-------|-------
             |                                       |	
       ====================================================   	
	
Figure 2.  Setup for handling trash.	
	
In this arrangement the 2nd row is offset from the 1st row by 4 
inches.  The 3rd row is offset from the 2nd by 4 inches in the 
same direction as the 2nd is offset from the 1st.  The 4 row is 
offset from the 3rd in like manner.  Note that in this 
arrangement the overall result is similar in that there is a tine 
every 4 inches as in the setup for herbicide incorporation.   
However, with this arrangement we get the wave effect which is 
good for handling trash, but is not acceptable for herbicide 
incorporation.  
         	
If the danish tine field cultivator is to be used for herbicide 
incorporation and is setup as in Figure 2. the herbicide will be 
left in rows, with some of the area with little or no herbicide.  
The herbicide pattern will be something like that shown below. 
	
      ++++       ++++       ++++       ++++       ++++  
     ++++++     ++++++     ++++++     ++++++     ++++++    
   +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++	
4th row                                                                        
 tine------->|          |           |          |
	
Figure 3.  Herbicide pattern for danish tine field cultivator as 
setup for trash handling shown in Figure 2.










-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     4614     TITLE:  Manure Ramps
            
TYPE:        Concrete manure ramp and pushoff

USE:         Loading and storage of manure in feedlot situations

DESCRIPTION: Masonry and poured concrete construction; ramp or horizontal 
             pushoff; manure storage or direct loading.  











-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6268     TITLE:  General Barn

TYPE:        Two-story general purpose for livestock

USE:         Housing livestock, storing hay and concentrate.

DESCRIPTION: 24'x 30'; wood frame construction; concrete foundation walls and 
             footings; three box stalls; calf pen; two cow stalls; feed room; 
             hay loft; gable roof with a slope of 8 to 12; three alternate 
             floor plans.









-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6361     TITLE:  Valves for Gravity Manure Handling

TYPE:        Manual or hydraulic valves

USE:         Control of gravity flow from manure storage

DESCRIPTION: Three(3) valves; vertical; horizontal; and butterfly valves; bill
             of materials; construction, installation, and operation
             instructions.










-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
-END-
-DOC-
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6364     TITLE:  Large Capacity Bulk Feed Storage Bin

TYPE:        Post frame commodity storage

USE:         Storing bulk feed components for livestock

DESCRIPTION: 6x6 post frame; 3 to 12 sloped shed roof; 6" concrete floor; three
             12'x 36' bays; 15'x 36'-6" concrete apron; front clearance 17'-9";
             expandable.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6021     TITLE:  Braced Wall Silo

TYPE:        Bunker silo

USE:         Storing silage

DESCRIPTION: 4x6 post, 6'-0" o.c.; 2x6 tongue and groove plank siding; 6" 
             concrete slab; storage or self-feeding; table of widths, lengths,
             and storage capacities; entirely above grade.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6055     TITLE:  Horizontal Silo

TYPE:        Tilt-up concrete construction

USE:         Storing silage

DESCRIPTION: Concrete tilt-up wall; concrete floor and butresses;
             buttresses spaced 6'-0" o.c; dimensions and reinforcement 
             schedules; entirely above grade.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6347     TITLE:  Concrete Trench Silo

TYPE:        Partial below grade trench

USE:         Storing and feeding silage

DESCRIPTION: In-ground silo; concrete tilt-up sides; concrete floor; table of
             capacities for depths of 8'to 18'; lengths of 20'to 80'; panel
             dimension schedule and panel reinforcement schedule.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6242     TITLE:  Slant Bar Feeder Panels

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Feeding round bales to cattle on feedlot or pasture

DESCRIPTION: Slant bar feeder panels; 1 1/4" square metal tubing; 5'-0" high;
             bill of materials; five panel lengths.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6329     TITLE:  Hay Spike

TYPE:        Attachment to front end loader

USE:         For lifting large round bales

DESCRIPTION: 2" dia.x 3'-6" long, high strength steel spike; mounted to 4"
             I-beams; used with front end loader.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6332     TITLE:  Hay Bale Loader for Round Bales

TYPE:        Winch type loader

USE:         For loading large round bales onto a trailer

DESCRIPTION: 2 1/2"x 1 1/2" tubing spreader bar; two 2 1/2"x 1 1/2" tubing
             pincher side arms used with a winch and cable; winch and trailer
             plans not included.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6350     TITLE:  Hay Storage for Large Round Bales

TYPE:        Post frame, clear span

USE:         For storing large round bales

DESCRIPTION: Pole barn; 48'x 96'; 8' bays; metal roof; trusses 4' o.c.; earthen
             floor; 18' ceiling height; enclosed on three sides; capacity about
             294 bales.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     4615     TITLE:  Barn for Automatic Bale Wagons

TYPE:        Clear span wood frame

USE:         Storing and feeding hay

DESCRIPTION: Pole barn; 46'x 96'; clear span 12' bays; 17' ceiling height;
             3'covered manger on side; construction details.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     5772     TITLE:  Cattle Hay Rack

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Feeding hay to cattle

DESCRIPTION: Movable; wood construction; V-notch openings; 4x6 runners, 2x4
              stanchions; 1x6 siding; 4' wide, 4'-4" high, and 14' long.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                        
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE 
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.
                                               
PLAN No:     5777     TITLE:  Movable Hay Racks for Cattle

TYPE:        Portable cattle feeder

USE:         Feeding hay to cattle on pasture

DESCRIPTION: Wood construction; wheel mounted; V-notch or vertical slat
             openings; metal roof covering; tow bar.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     5925     TITLE:  Cattle Feeding Rack

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         For feeding hay and silage to cattle on feedlot or pasture.

DESCRIPTION: Wood construction; movable on 4x6 skids; 2x4 frame-work; slanted
             openings; metal roof; 3'-9" wide, 7' high, and 14' long.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     5935     TITLE:  Hay Storage and Feeding Shed

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Storing and feeding hay

DESCRIPTION: Pole barn; 26'x 60'; 12' bays; metal roof; 2'-6" covered manger on 
             each side; 10' roof overhang; table shows hay storage capacity.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6214     TITLE:  Hay Feeders for Round Bales

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Feeding round bales to cattle on feedlot or pasture.

DESCRIPTION: Four designs; wood and metal construction; round and rectangular  
             shapes; slanted and V-notch openings; portable.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     4507     TITLE:  Holding Chute and Corral

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Handling and treating cattle

DESCRIPTION: 40'x 40' corral; chute, and headgate; headgate latch; cut-out
             gate; squeeze pen; wood construction.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     5796     TITLE:  Two Pen Corral

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Treating and controlling cattle

DESCRIPTION: Two 24'x 32' pens; loading chute; cattle chute; squeeze pen;
             headgate; fencing; gates; four headgate designs.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     5991     TITLE:  Beef Cattle Corral

TYPE:        Cattle, 50 head

USE:         Controlling and treating cattle

DESCRIPTION: Two holding pens; crowding pen; working chute; holding chute;
             headgate; loading ramp; location for portable scale; details of
             construction; expandable plan.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6049     TITLE:  Corral with Curved Chute

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Controlling and treating cattle

DESCRIPTION: Three holding pens; working pen; crowding pen; loading chute;
             working chute; squeeze; details of construction.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6230     TITLE:  Corrals

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Working cattle

DESCRIPTION: Three holding pens; crowding area; working chute and squeeze chute
             with concrete floor; details of construction; wood or metal
             fences.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr.Engr.

PLAN No:     163     TITLE:  Farm Gates and Fences

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Controlling cattle movement

DESCRIPTION: Plank, cable, and pipe fencing; railing and bracing designs for
             gates from 10'to 20' wide and 4'to 6' high.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6051     TITLE:  Cattle Guards

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Cattle control at open gates

DESCRIPTION: Three types; concrete and steel; concrete and wood; and wood.
             Bills of material; each approxiametly 9'x 16'-8".
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6151     TITLE:  Gate

TYPE:        Telescoping type for cattle

USE:         Controlling cattle movement

DESCRIPTION: 4' sliding metal extension for 12' commercial gate; of 1 1/2"
             pipe; hinge and post bracing details.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6266     TITLE:  Pasture Creep Gate

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Cow control for pasture feeding of calves

DESCRIPTION: Three designs; metal; metal and wood; wood; panel and gate
             designs.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6365     TITLE:  Variable Clearance Gate

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Feedlots or corrals

DESCRIPTION: Modification for commercial or home built gates; 4'-12' wide; can
             be raised 6"-24"; post and bracing details.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     5872     TITLE:  Self-feeding Fences

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Self-feeding silage from bunker or trench silos

DESCRIPTION: Seven designs for self-feeding fence sections, along with bracing
             and beam details; slanted, vertical, t-shaped openings; skid-
             mounted and suspended designs.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-
                                                                            



                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     4518     TITLE:  Headgate

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Restraining cattle for treatment and observation.

DESCRIPTION: Wood construction; stationary; adjustable width; materials list.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     5681     TITLE:  Movable Chute

TYPE:        2-wheel chute

USE:         Loading and unloading all livestock

DESCRIPTION: Wood construction; wheel mounted; 2'-6" wide x 12'-0" long;
             towable.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     5778     TITLE:  Holding Chute and Headgate

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Treating, and handling cattle

DESCRIPTION: Wood construction; stationary; posts 6 on centers; 2x6 fencing,
             side walking platform; side opening gates; three types of
             headgates; optional roof.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     5789       TITLE:  Cattle Squeeze and Headgates

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Treating, and handling cattle

DESCRIPTION: Headgate, squeeze, and cutting gates; wood and metal construction; 
             concrete floor;three types of headgates.  Squeeze is 6'-0" high 
             and 8'-0" long.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     5793     TITLE:  Loading Chutes

TYPE:        All livestock

USE:         Permanent and portable loading and unloading of livestock

DESCRIPTION: Portable and stationary loading chutes; wood construction; ramps
             with cleats, wood steps, or tamped earth; four designs.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     5852     TITLE:  Variable Height Loading Chute

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Permanent chute for loading and unloading cattle.

DESCRIPTION: Wood construction; stationary; hinged ramp, adjustable(12" min. to
             42" max.); concrete apron; and cleated side walk. 6x6 posts; 2x6
             siding; 36" wide, 11'-6' long; 4'-0" approach.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6141     TITLE:  Trailer for Cattle, Gooseneck Type

TYPE:        Gooseneck trailer for livestock

USE:         Transporting cattle, horses, and other livestock.

DESCRIPTION: All metal frame construction; 2x6 wood floor; 6'x 16' animal
             compartment; 4x wheels; adaptable to horses.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     24     TITLE:  Headgate

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Restraining cattle for treatment and observation.

DESCRIPTION: Wood construction; two different locking designs; materials list.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6077     TITLE:  Walk-thru Headgate

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Restraining cattle for treatment and observation.

DESCRIPTION: 2x4 frame; plywood braces; 2x8 neck boards; 59" wide; 69" high;
             locking handle;  materials list.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     5906     TITLE:  Mineral Feeder

TYPE:        Cattle

USE:         Feed mineral supplements to cattle on feedlot or pasture

DESCRIPTION: 4x4 post; exterior plywood sides; 20"x 35" tempered hardboard
             floor; 2 compartments; corrugated metal roof.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.



PLAN No:     6167     TITLE:  Silage Feed Bunks

TYPE:        Beef and Dairy Cattle

USE:         Covered silage and concentrate feeder for feedlot and pasture
             situations.

DESCRIPTION: Four different feed bunk designs; wood, concrete block, and poured 
             concrete construction; metal roof; concrete standing pad.  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.


PLAN No:     5837     TITLE:  Mangers and Feeding Floors

TYPE:        Beef and Dairy Cattle

USE:         Silage, hay, and concentrate feeders for feedlot and pasture
             situations.

DESCRIPTION: Four types of construction; 1) wood construction with two 
             different feeding fence designs; 2 & 3) concrete block, metal 
             pipe, and cable fencing; 4) is concrete, metal pipe, and cable 
             fencing; four manger designs.  
             
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     34     TITLE:  Cattle Feed Trough

TYPE:        Beef and Dairy Cattle

USE:         Permanent or portable silage and concentrate feeder for pasture or
             paddock.

DESCRIPTION: Stationary or skid mounted; wood construction; 14' long x 3'-4" 
             wide. Material list.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                     
-DOC-


                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     23     TITLE:  Fenceline Bunks

TYPE:        Beef and Dairy Cattle

USE:         Silage and concentrate feeder for feedlot or pasture locations,
             without roof.

DESCRIPTION: Wood, pipe, and/or concrete construction; post on 8' centers; 
             materials list.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
-DOC-

                      AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     22     TITLE:  Covered Fenceline Feeder

TYPE:        Beef and Dairy Cattle

USE:         Silage and concentrate feeder at feedlot or on pasture.

DESCRIPTION: Wood construction; single row of 6" top dia. poles on 5' centers; 
             metal shed roof; concrete pad where cattle stand.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6212     TITLE:  Pasture Drag

TYPE:        Used truck tire drag

USE:         Pasture management

DESCRIPTION: Two designs; uses truck tires bolted together; pulled with evener
             and attached chain.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                                           
-DOC-

                     AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                      
                        Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.                  

Plan No.:    5827     Title: Creep Panels for Pigs     
                               
Type:        Portable wooden panels        

Use:         Creep feeding pigs on the ground         
                
Description: Portable; 8' long x 32" high wood panels;  8" x 18" creep opening; 
             1 x 6 rails; 2 x 3 uprights; variable size  
               
              




    


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
	
-DOC-
	
                 STORING AND CURING SWEET POTATOES	
      Gerald D. Christenbury, Extension Agricultual Engineer	
	
     Sweet potatoes are an important crop and must be cured and 
stored properly for best quality.  Sweet potatoes are pershible 
which means they are living and breathing organisms which use 
oxygen and gives off carbon dioxide.  The environment in the 
potato house must be controlled precisely if you expect high 
quality sweet potatoes.	 
     Curing and storage facilities should be designed for 
controlling the conditions surrounding the sweet potatoes.  Heat 
must be provided during curing and extended cold periods.  
Cooling must be provided after curing and during hot weather.  
Insulation is needed to minimize heat loss and to prevent 
condensation.  Some means of adding moisture to the air must be 
provided to maintain a high relative humidity.  There are times 
however, when moisture must be removed from the curing room.  
Ventilation is needed to prevent the accumulation of carbon 
dioxide and the depletion of oxygen.   Sweet potatoes can be 
successfully cured and stored when temperature, humidity, and 
ventilation are controlled. 		
	
                              CURING	

     Sweet potatoes should be cured immediately after harvest, 
preferable at 85 degree F. and a relative humidity of 85 to 90 
percent for 4 to 7 days.  A small amount of air exchange in the 
curing room is required to prevent the accumulation of carbon 
dioxide or the depletion of oxygen.  Ventilation at the rate of 1 
to 2 cu. ft. per day per 55-pound box of potatoes should be 
adequate for curing.	 
     Most farm structures have sufficient infiltration to meet 
the minimum ventilation requirements. Infiltration is the air 
that enters through openings, such as cracks, open doorways, and 
around ventilators.  Care should be taken not to over ventilate.  
Over ventialtion is costly and makes it difficult to control 
temperature and humidity.  A tight structure with mechanical 
ventilation is preferred.  
     The primary purpose of curing is to heal injuries so that 
the sweet potatoes remain in good condition.  Healing takes place 
rapidly at 85 F and 85 to 90 percent relative humidity. Healing 
of wounds is complete in 5 to 6 days under these conditions.	 
Healing takes considerable longer at lower temperatures and may 
require 25 to 30 days at 70 degree F.		
	
                             STORAGE	

     After curing, sweet potatoes should be held at 55 to 60 F 
with a relative humidity of 85 to 90 percent.  A small amount of 
ventilation is need to replace oxygen consumed and to remove 
carbon dioxide.  Fresh air should be introduced at a rate equal 
to the volume of the stored potatoes every 2 hours.	 
     Infiltration is typically one air exchange per hour for most 
farm structurers.  Infiltration is typically sufficient to 
prevent the depletion of oxygen or the accumulation of carbon 
dioxide.	 
     The temperature of the potatoes should be lowered as quickly 
as possible after curing in complete.  A period of 7 to 10 days 
usually is allowed for this, however it should be done in 2 or 3 
days if possible.  Cooling is usually accomplished with 
ventilation, but may be done with mechanical refrigeration or the 
aid of evaporative cooling.  The ventilation system should have 
the capacity of 1 to 2 c.f.m. per bushel of sweet potatoes at a 
static pressure of at least 1/10 inch.  
     Humidity should be controlled within 85 to 90 percent for 
both curing and storage.  A mechanical humidifier controlled by a 
humidistat should be used to maintain the moisture in the air 
surrounding the potatoes.  It is almost impossible to avoid all 
conditions that produce relative humidity in excess of that 
recommeneded or to prevent condensation at all times.  At 
relative humidities of 95 to 100 percent it is very difficult to 
prevent condensation and moisture must be removed from the air.	 
     Usually excess moisture is removed by ventilation.  Air 
containing less moisture than the air in the storage is 
introduced to replace some of the high moisture storage air.  The 
humidistat used to control the humidifier can also be used to 
turn on the ventilation system when the humidity exceeds 95 
percent.	 
	
                         STORAGE PROBLEMS 
	
     The primary storage problems are development of pithiness, 
sprouting, chilling, internal cork development, and decay.  Most 
weight lose is dure to evaporation of moisture through the skin.  
When weight loss becomes excessive, pithiness develops.	 
     At any time that temperature in storage rises above 60 F 
sprout growth will occur.  Sweet potatoes cannot be stored very 
long at temperatures below 55 F.  The lower the temperature the 
more the chilling injury but will be ruined completely if held 
below 30 F.	 
     Storage temperatures above 60 F encourage the development of 
a virus disease of sweet potatoes that causes the development of 
corky areas in the roots of susceptible varieties.	 
     Infections of decay-producing organisms not prevented by 
curing will progress into various stages of decay during storage.  
With few exceptions, the decay-producing organisms do not move 
from diseased roots to roots healed by curing.	 
     Stratification of the air in the curing or storage room is a 
common problem and can make an expensive facility unmanageable.  
Some means of air circulation within the facility can eliminate 
most of the problems associated with stratification.  A single 
paddle-type fan will work for small facilites whereas a more 
elaborate system may be needed for large facilities.  The key is 
to keep the air moving throughout the facility at all times.	 
     With properly designed and operated curing and storage 
facilities sweet potatoes can be stored for an extended time with 
minimum loss while maintaining maximum quality.  





-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6021     TITLE:  Braced Wall Silo

TYPE:        Bunker silo

USE:         Storing silage

DESCRIPTION: 4x6 post, 6'-0" o.c.; 2x6 tongue and groove plank siding; 6" 
             concrete slab; storage or self-feeding; table of widths, lengths,
             and storage capacities; entirely above grade.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE                       
-DOC-
                       AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING PLAN SERVICE
                         Clyde L. Barth, Ext. Agr. Engr.

PLAN No:     6329     TITLE:  Hay Spike

TYPE:        Attachment to front end loader

USE:         For lifting large round bales

DESCRIPTION: 2" dia.x 3'-6" long, high strength steel spike; mounted to 4"
             I-beams; used with front end loader.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COTTON LETTER - NO. 331                            
-DOC-

                            COTTON LETTER - NO. 331
                    Lawrence H. Harvey, Extension Agronomist

Crop Conditions:  Some 80% of the 1987 cotton  crop  has  now  been  harvested.
Fiber  quality  continues  to  improve.  The USDA-AMS Cotton Classing Office in 
Florence reports 13,834 bales were classed  last  week.  Of  these  bales,  37% 
graded 41 or better, 98% has a staple of 34 or longer, and 93% was in the 35 to 
49  mike range.  A total of 45,154 bales have been classed as of 10-15-87.  The 
Classing Office was four days behind  with  classing.  USDA  projects  domestic 
consumption  will total 7.7 million bales and exports will be 7.0 million bales 
for a total offtake of 14.7 million bales.  The carryover projected for 1988 is 
3.8 million bales.  

Cotton Production and Marketing  Shortcourse:  Registration  deadline  for  the 
Cotton  Production  and  Marketing  Shortcourse  planned for Florence beginning 
November 9 and for Orangeburg beginning November 10 is October 30.  If you plan 
to attend this shortcourse,  please complete and mail the registration form  so 
it  will  be  delivered  before  the  deadline.   Details  on  the  course  and 
registration forms are available at your local County Extension Office.
The following items were taken from the Oct. 9 and 16 issues of Cotton's Week: 

AGENCIES TO ALLOW ACREAGE  BASE  ADJUSTMENTS  --  ASCS  and  Soil  Conservation 
Service  have  agreed to allow automatic crop acreage base adjustments on farms 
required by locally approved conservation plan to plant  strip  crops  of  high 
residue  grains on highly erodible fields.  Action was taken at request of Rep.
Charles Stenholm (D-Tex.).  Under 1985 farm law,  all producers farming  highly 
erodible  land  must be in compliance with approved plan by Jan.  1,  1990,  or 
forfeit eligibility for all USDA program payments.  

COTTON TEXTILE IMPORTS RISE AGAIN -- Cotton  textile  and  apparel  imports  in 
August totaled 590.6 million square yards,  32.8% more than year ago.  Commerce 
Department said textile and apparel imports for first eight months of this year 
were 12.2% higher than same period last year.  
RULING  DUE  SOON  ON AG RESEARCH LAWSUIT -- Final court order is expected late 
this  month  on  eight-year-old  lawsuit  that  would  require  University   of 
California  to  demonstrate  how  its  agricultural research will benefit small 
farmers before research work actually begins.  Suit  was  filed  by  California 
Agrarian Action Project.  In preliminary findings,  state judge ruled that 1887 
Hatch Act -- which established agricultural experiment stations affiliated with 
land-grant universities -- requires university to have procedure to ensure that 
its research will benefit those  it  was  intended  to  help.  Plaintiffs  have 
recommended  establishing  rural  committees  to  have voice in university's ag 
research agenda.  University strongly objects and plans appeal if  final  order 
is  as  anticipated.  Case  could  affect all universities receiving federal ag 
research funds.  

HIGHER TEXAS PROSPECTS RAISE USDA CROP ESTIMATE -- USDA's Oct.  1  estimate  of 
1987-88  U.S.  cotton  production  is  13,336,400  bales,  including 228,000 of 
American Pima.  Total  estimate  is  up  490,000  bales  from  Sept.  1.  Texas 
forecast  was  raised  by  300,000  bales  from last month,  and South Carolina 
estimate -- only one reduced -- was lowered by  5,000  bales.  Total  harvested 
acres are put at 10,004,900, with yield averaging 640 pounds.	
                  Acres Harvested           Yield                 Production
                 1987 Est.    1986     1987 Est.   1986      1987 Est.     1986
                       (000)              (lbs/acre)          (000 480# bales)

Ala.                333       313         519      506          360        330
Ariz.               308       249       1,294    1,301          830        675
Ark.                640       480         660      602          880        602	
Calif.            1,120       990       1,136    1,088        2,650      2,245	
Fla.                 24        19         735      707           36         28	
Ga.                 255       195         678      455          360        185	
La.                 600       570         720      567          900        673	
Miss.             1,090     1,000         749      571        1,700      1,190	
Mo.                 189       160         762      588          300        196	
N.M.                 62        50         619      595           80         62	
N.C.                 94        81         562      646          110        109	
Okla.               390       350         394      288          320        210	
S.C.                125       113         538      370          140         87	
Tenn.               395       335         656      567          540        396	
Tex.              4,250     3,450         440      353        3,900      2,535	
Other                 3         2         480      406            3          2	
                 ______     _____       _____    _____       ______      _____	
	
Upland            9,877     8,357         637      547       13,109      9,525	
	
Total Pima          128       111         854      890          228        206	
                 ______     _____       _____    _____       ______      ______

All Cotton       10,005     8,468         640      552       13,336      9,731	
CBO GIVES FAVORABLE REPORT TO COTTON RESEARCH/PROMOTION BILL  --  Congressional 
Budget  Office  this  week  informed House Agriculture Committee chairman de la 
Garza (D-Tex.) that passage of cotton research/promotion amendment  would  save 
$3  million  in  farm  program  payments in 1989 and $5 million each subsequent 
year.  Report came after NCC staff provided data to CBO showing government cost 
savings could be expected from amending current law to (1) apply assessment  to 
cotton  content  of  textile  imports  and  (2)  disallow refund option for all 
assessments.   CBO's  cost-savings  determination  qualifies  amendment  to  be 
included  in  Budget  Reconciliation measure,  move that would greatly increase 
likelihood of cotton bill's  passage.  Reconciliation  measure  is  slated  for 
mark-up  Oct.  13,  and  NCC  President  Whittington has called on all producer 
leaders and interest  organizations  to  contact  House  Agriculture  Committee 
members and request that cotton bill (HR 1622) be included in measure.	 
DUNAVANT TO ADDRESS BELTWIDE CONFERENCE -- Memphis cotton merchant and NCC vice 
president William B.  Dunavant, Jr.,  will describe U.S.  and world outlook for 
cotton  in  first  session of 1988 Beltwide Cotton Production Conference in New 
Orleans on Jan.  4.  Address by Conference chairman Bruce Brumfield, Inverness, 
Miss.,  producer, will open conference.  Among other reports will be comparison 
of cotton production costs in U.S. and competing countries by Dr. Don Ethridge, 
Texas Tech University  agricultural  economist;  and  look  at  present  cotton 
mechanization technology and future developments by Dr.  Lambert Wilkes,  Texas 
A&M agricultural engineer.  Ten technical sessions will be  held  Jan.  6-7  in 
conjunction with conference.  Richard Mountfort,  EPA's fungicide and herbicide 
product manager, Washington,  D.C.,  will update progress on re-registration of 
cotton  herbicides  at  weed  science  session,  which  will include 21 reports 
ranging from weed control systems for no-till cotton to experimental herbicides 
for morningglory control in cotton.	 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COST/ACRE OF NEW SOYBEAN HERBICIDES                      
-DOC-
                      COST/ACRE OF NEW SOYBEAN HERBICIDES
                    E. C. Murdock, Extension Weed Scientist

Canopy 75 DF (DuPont):
     Application Methods:  PPI or PRE
     Recommended Rates:  Coarse-textured soil - 6-10 oz/acre
                         Medium-textured soil - 8-12 oz/acre
     Suggested Grower Price:  $30.00/lb
     Cost/Acre:  $15.00 @ 8 oz/acre broadcast

Classic 25 DF (DuPont)
     Application Method:  POT
     Recommended Rates:  0.5 to 0.75 oz
     Suggested Grower Price:  $20.00/oz
     Cost/Acre:  $10.00 to $15.00 broadcast

Scepter 1.5 E (American Cyanamid)
     Application Methods:  PPI, PRE, POT
     Recommended Rate:  0.67 pt/acre
     Suggested Grower Price:  $146.00/gal
         Cost/Acre:  $12.15 broadcast 

LABELING AND RECOMMENDATIONS FOR SOYBEAN HERBICIDES

     DuPont recently received full federal registrations for the use of  Canopy 
and  Classic  as  soybean  herbicides.  Both  products  have  been  extensively 
evaluated in South Carolina and other states,  and are recommended  by  Clemson 
University  for broadleaf weed control in soybeans.  I have provided below some 
information from the recently approved label that should aid you  in  answering 
questions concerning the use of Canopy and Classic.  

CANOPY 

1.  Formulation:  75 DF (64.3% metribuzin, 10.7% chlorimuron)

2.  Application Methods:  PPI* or PRE**
    
     *Incorporate  uniformly  into  the  top  1  to  2  inches of soil prior to 
      planting.  If tank-mixed with Treflan or Dual follow  label  instructions 
      for incorporation of the grass herbicide.  

    **Rainfall required after application for effective control.  If applied to 
      moist soil 0.5 to 1 inch of rain is adequate; if applied to dry soil 1 to 
      2 inches of rain are necessary to ensure adequate weed control.  

3.  Rate*:  Coarse soils (loamy sand, sandy loam) - 6-10 oz/acre
            Medium soils (loam, silty loam, silt) - 8-12 oz/acre
    *Do not use on sands or on soils with less than 0.5% organic matter.

4.  Suggested Grower Price:  $30.00/lb, Cost/Acre:  $15.00 @ 8 oz/acre
                                                    broadcast
5.  Susceptible Varieties: Canopy contains metribuzin and should not be used in 
    fields  where  metribuzin-susceptible soybean varieties (Coker 156,  Asgrow 
    6520, etc.) will be planted.  

6.  Weeds Controlled*:  Cocklebur                Prickly sida
                        Florida beggarweed       Ragweed
                        Hemp sesbania            Sicklepod**
                        Jimsonweed               Smartweed
                        Lambsquarters            Spotted spurge
                        Morningglory species     Velvetleaf
                        Pigweed species

     *Please read section on label concerning  biological  activity  carefully.

    **Sequential  applications  (i.e.  Canopy  PPI  or PRE followed by Classic) 
      needed for adequate control.  

7.  Tank mixes: Canopy generally provides relatively poor grass control.  It is 
    labeled to be tank-mixed with Treflan,  Lasso,  Dual or Prowl for  improved 
    grass control.  

8.  Minimum and No-till Systems: Canopy will provide burndown of existing small 
    annual  grasses  and  broadleaf weeds.  If used as a burndown treatment add 
    0.25%  surfactant (1 qt/100 gal spray solution)  or  1  qt  of   crop   oil 
    concentrate/acre.  

    Tank mixes:  For added postemergence control, especially on grasses, Canopy 
                 can be tank mixed with Roundup, Paraquat or Bronco.

                 For added preemergence grass control, Canopy can be tank-mixed
                 with Dual or Lasso. 

9.  Rotational  Crop  Restrictions:  The  following  crops may be planted after 
    applying canopy.  

    1.  Less than 4 months after application.
                  Soybeans

    2.  4 months after application.
                  Soybeans
                  Wheat 
                  Barley

    3.  18 months after application.
                  Soybeans      Cotton
                  Wheat         Peanuts
                  Barley        Sorghum
                  Corn

These recropping restrictions will not interfere with planting wheat or  barley 
in the fall after soybean harvest.  However, they prohibit rotating to any crop 
other  than  soybeans  the  spring  following  an  application  of Canopy.  The 
restrictions on rotating to corn,  cotton,  and sorghum may be revised  pending 
additional  data  concerning potential residual effects on these crops in South 
Carolina.  

CLASSIC 

1.  Formulation:  25 DF

2.  Application Method:  POT

3.  Rates:  0.5 to 0.75 oz/acre

4.  Suggested Grower Price*:  $20.00/oz.    Cost/Acre:  $10 @ 0.5 oz/acre
                                                        $15 @ 0.75 oz/acre
5.  Weeds Controlled*: Bristly starbur      Smartweed
                       Cocklebur            Morningglory species
                       Hemp sesbania        Sicklepod**
                       Jimsonweed           Pigweed
                       Ragweed              Yellow nutsedge

     *Please refer to label for maximum weed growth stages.

    **Sequential applications (i.e.  Canopy PPI or PRE followed by Classic POT) 
      usually needed for adequate control.  

    Classic will also control or suppress cowpea and velvetleaf.

6.  Tank Mixes:  Classic may be tank-mixed with Blazer

7.  Rotational Crop Restrictions: The following rotational crops may be planted 
                                  after applying Classic.  

    1.  Less than 3 months after application.
                  Soybeans

    2.  3 months after application.
                  Soybeans
                  Wheat
                  Barley
    3.  9 months after applicatin (18 months after application if  Classic  is 
        used following a soil-applied treatment of Canopy or Gemini).  
                  Soybeans      Cotton
                  Wheat         Peanuts
                  Barley        Sorghum       
                  Corn          


























-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COST/ACRE OF NEW SOYBEAN HERBICIDES                      
-DOC-
                      COST/ACRE OF NEW SOYBEAN HERBICIDES
                    E. C. Murdock, Extension Weed Scientist

Canopy 75 DF (DuPont):
     Application Methods:  PPI or PRE
     Recommended Rates:  Coarse-textured soil - 6-10 oz/acre
                         Medium-textured soil - 8-12 oz/acre
     Suggested Grower Price:  $30.00/lb
     Cost/Acre:  $15.00 @ 8 oz/acre broadcast

Classic 25 DF (DuPont)
     Application Method:  POT
     Recommended Rates:  0.5 to 0.75 oz
     Suggested Grower Price:  $20.00/oz
     Cost/Acre:  $10.00 to $15.00 broadcast

Scepter 1.5 E (American Cyanamid)
     Application Methods:  PPI, PRE, POT
     Recommended Rate:  0.67 pt/acre
     Suggested Grower Price:  $146.00/gal
         Cost/Acre:  $12.15 broadcast 

LABELING AND RECOMMENDATIONS FOR SOYBEAN HERBICIDES

     DuPont recently received full federal registrations for the use of  Canopy 
and  Classic  as  soybean  herbicides.  Both  products  have  been  extensively 
evaluated in South Carolina and other states,  and are recommended  by  Clemson 
University  for broadleaf weed control in soybeans.  I have provided below some 
information from the recently approved label that should aid you  in  answering 
questions concerning the use of Canopy and Classic.  

CANOPY 

1.  Formulation:  75 DF (64.3% metribuzin, 10.7% chlorimuron)

2.  Application Methods:  PPI* or PRE**
    
     *Incorporate  uniformly  into  the  top  1  to  2  inches of soil prior to 
      planting.  If tank-mixed with Treflan or Dual follow  label  instructions 
      for incorporation of the grass herbicide.  

    **Rainfall required after application for effective control.  If applied to 
      moist soil 0.5 to 1 inch of rain is adequate; if applied to dry soil 1 to 
      2 inches of rain are necessary to ensure adequate weed control.  

3.  Rate*:  Coarse soils (loamy sand, sandy loam) - 6-10 oz/acre
            Medium soils (loam, silty loam, silt) - 8-12 oz/acre
    *Do not use on sands or on soils with less than 0.5% organic matter.

4.  Suggested Grower Price:  $30.00/lb, Cost/Acre:  $15.00 @ 8 oz/acre
                                                    broadcast
5.  Susceptible Varieties: Canopy contains metribuzin and should not be used in 
    fields  where  metribuzin-susceptible soybean varieties (Coker 156,  Asgrow 
    6520, etc.) will be planted.  

6.  Weeds Controlled*:  Cocklebur                Prickly sida
                        Florida beggarweed       Ragweed
                        Hemp sesbania            Sicklepod**
                        Jimsonweed               Smartweed
                        Lambsquarters            Spotted spurge
                        Morningglory species     Velvetleaf
                        Pigweed species

     *Please read section on label concerning  biological  activity  carefully.

    **Sequential  applications  (i.e.  Canopy  PPI  or PRE followed by Classic) 
      needed for adequate control.  

7.  Tank mixes: Canopy generally provides relatively poor grass control.  It is 
    labeled to be tank-mixed with Treflan,  Lasso,  Dual or Prowl for  improved 
    grass control.  

8.  Minimum and No-till Systems: Canopy will provide burndown of existing small 
    annual  grasses  and  broadleaf weeds.  If used as a burndown treatment add 
    0.25%  surfactant (1 qt/100 gal spray solution)  or  1  qt  of   crop   oil 
    concentrate/acre.  

    Tank mixes:  For added postemergence control, especially on grasses, Canopy 
                 can be tank mixed with Roundup, Paraquat or Bronco.

                 For added preemergence grass control, Canopy can be tank-mixed
                 with Dual or Lasso. 

9.  Rotational  Crop  Restrictions:  The  following  crops may be planted after 
    applying canopy.  

    1.  Less than 4 months after application.
                  Soybeans

    2.  4 months after application.
                  Soybeans
                  Wheat 
                  Barley

    3.  18 months after application.
                  Soybeans      Cotton
                  Wheat         Peanuts
                  Barley        Sorghum
                  Corn

These recropping restrictions will not interfere with planting wheat or  barley 
in the fall after soybean harvest.  However, they prohibit rotating to any crop 
other  than  soybeans  the  spring  following  an  application  of Canopy.  The 
restrictions on rotating to corn,  cotton,  and sorghum may be revised  pending 
additional  data  concerning potential residual effects on these crops in South 
Carolina.  

CLASSIC 

1.  Formulation:  25 DF

2.  Application Method:  POT

3.  Rates:  0.5 to 0.75 oz/acre

4.  Suggested Grower Price*:  $20.00/oz.    Cost/Acre:  $10 @ 0.5 oz/acre
                                                        $15 @ 0.75 oz/acre
5.  Weeds Controlled*: Bristly starbur      Smartweed
                       Cocklebur            Morningglory species
                       Hemp sesbania        Sicklepod**
                       Jimsonweed           Pigweed
                       Ragweed              Yellow nutsedge

     *Please refer to label for maximum weed growth stages.

    **Sequential applications (i.e.  Canopy PPI or PRE followed by Classic POT) 
      usually needed for adequate control.  

    Classic will also control or suppress cowpea and velvetleaf.

6.  Tank Mixes:  Classic may be tank-mixed with Blazer

7.  Rotational Crop Restrictions: The following rotational crops may be planted 
                                  after applying Classic.  

    1.  Less than 3 months after application.
                  Soybeans

    2.  3 months after application.
                  Soybeans
                  Wheat
                  Barley
    3.  9 months after applicatin (18 months after application if  Classic  is 
        used following a soil-applied treatment of Canopy or Gemini).  
                  Soybeans      Cotton
                  Wheat         Peanuts
                  Barley        Sorghum       
                  Corn          


























-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Combine Adjustments Pay Big Dividends for the Time Spent             
-DOC-
            Combine Adjustments Pay Big Dividends for the Time Spent 
                    Joe Zublena, Extension Agronomist (Corn)	
	
     It's the time of the season that many producers thought would never  come 
while  others can't believe its already here -- corn harvesting time.  For the 
well prepared,  their combines have been lubed,  tuned and field  adjusted  to 
limit  losses  and  increase the pay-off from the fields.  These managers know 
that they can squeeze more yield from their fields with  a  properly  adjusted 
combine and a  skilled operater so they aggressively prepare for it.  Do you ?  
	
     How  did  you  fare  last year?  Did your corn fields look like they were 
reseeded after harvest from the sprouted kernels  left  behind  your  combine?  
Maybe not,  but there were certainly a lot of fields that fit that discription 
both last year and the year before throughout the state.  Some random sampling 
found many fields with losses of 10 or more bushels per acre.  That's a lot of 
corn for the doves and way too much to justify.  Remember that it only takes 2 
kernels per square foot or 1 large ear per 1/1000 acre to equal  a  bushel  of 
lost corn per acre.  
     To improve your combining efficiency keep in mind the following tips: 
     
     -Put your best driver on the combine.  
     
     -Harvest losses are at a minimum at about 21% kernel moisture.  
     
     -Ground speed should not exceed 3 MPH,  especially with low moisture corn 
      and lodged corn.  
      
     -The longer corn stays in the field, the greater the risk of lodging.  

     -Hybrids  have  different  cob  sizes  and  ear  shapes.   Check  combine 
      efficiency between fields with different shaped ears.  

     After  combining,  remember  the job isn't done until the grain is either 
sold or dried to a safe storage level in your bins.  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES OF RYE                         
-DOC-
                         RECOMMENDED VARIETIES OF RYE
                      W. D. GRAHAM AND D. T. GOODEN, III
                       DEPARTMENT OF AGRONOMY AND SOILS

(P)  Piedmont;  (CP) Entire Coastal Plain;  (UCP) Upper Coastal Plain;  (LCP) 
Lower Coastal Plain;  (Tp) Trial planting;  (Em) Early maturity;  (Mm) Medium 
maturity; (Lm) Late maturity

RYE: 

      Grain  - Athens Abruzzi, Florida 401, N. C. Abruzzi, Wrens Abruzzi   
      Forage  - Paymaster   WR-811,  Athens Abruzzi,  Gurley  G.I.  75,  
                Gurley Grazer 2000,  Florida 401,  Gurley's Abruzzi, N. C. 
                Abruzzi, Vita-Graze, Wintergrazer 70, Wintermore, Wrens Abruzzi
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES OF OATS                         
-DOC-
                         RECOMMENDED VARIETIES OF OATS
                      W. D. GRAHAM AND D. T. GOODEN, III
                       DEPARTMENT OF AGRONOMY AND SOILS

(P)  Piedmont;  (CP) Entire Coastal Plain;  (UCP) Upper Coastal Plain;  (LCP) 
Lower Coastal Plain;  (Tp) Trial planting;  (Em) Early maturity;  (Mm) Medium 
maturity; (Lm) Late maturity

OATS:     

      Grain  - Brooks, Coker 227 (CP), Coker 716 (P), Coker 820 (Em), Simpson
      Forage  - Brooks,  Century,  Coker 227 (CP),  Coker 716 (P),  Coker 820 
              (Em), Simpson
         
     Century,  Coker  716,  and  Simpson are especially suited to the  Piedmont 
where soil-borne mosaic is a problem.   Century is especially well adapted  for 
hay,  silage,  and  green chop,  but it not for grazing.   Coker 227  has  good 
resistance  to crown rust.   Brooks should not be planted in areas where  soil-
borne  mosaic is known to be a problem.   Brooks and Century have no resistance 
to crown rust.  Brooks has a higher grain protein than other recommended 
varieties.  Coker 820 should not be planted in the mountains.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES OF WHEAT                        
-DOC-
                        RECOMMENDED VARIETIES OF WHEAT
                      W. D. GRAHAM AND D. T. GOODEN, III
                       DEPARTMENT OF AGRONOMY AND SOILS

                            FIELD CROP VARIETIES
           
(P)  Piedmont;  (CP) Entire Coastal Plain;  (UCP) Upper Coastal Plain;  (LCP) 
Lower Coastal Plain;  (Tp) Trial planting;  (Em) Early maturity;  (Mm) Medium 
maturity; (Lm) Late maturity

WHEAT

Brand/                                 Hessian +     Powdery  Leaf
Variety_____________Maturity*__Area**__Fly_______Mildew___Rust______Septoria

Coker 747                M     P,CP    Poor      Fair     Fair      Fair
Coker 762                M     P,CP    Poor      Fair     Fair      Fair
Coker 797 (1)            E       CP    Poor      Fair     Good      Fair
Coker 916                M     P,CP    Poor      Good     Good      Fair
Coker 983                M     P,CP    Poor      Good     Fair      Fair
Coker 9227 (Tp)          E     P,CP    Poor      Fair     Good      Fair
Coker 9323               M     P,CP    Poor      Fair     Good      Fair
Florida 301 (1)          E     P,CP    Poor      Good     Good      Fair
Florida 302              M     P,CP    Poor      Good     Good      Fair
Hunter  (1)              E     P,CP    Poor      Good     Good      Fair
M c Nair 1003            M     P,CP    Good      Fair     Poor      Fair
Pioneer Brand 2550       L     P,CP    Good      Fair     Good      Fair
Pioneer Brand 2551 (Tp)  L     P,CP    Fair      Fair     Good      Fair
RHS HW 3021 (Tp)         M     P,CP    Fair      Good     Good      Fair
Saluda (Tp)              M     P,CP    Good      Fair     Good      Fair
Southern Belle (1)       E     P,CP    Poor      Fair     Good      Fair
Stacy                    M     P,CP    Good      Good     Good      Fair
Williams                 M     P,CP    Good      Good     Good      Fair
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
     * Early=May 25-June 5 harvest date from Nov. 1-15 seeding    
       Medium=June 5-15 harvest date from Nov. 1-15 seeding
       Late=June 15-July 1 harvest date from Nov. 1-15 seeding
    ** P=Piedmont, CP=Coastal Plain 
     + =Hessian fly ratings by J. W. Chapin, Edisto REC
     1 =Especially suited for late seeding

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
[1m                  l988 Recommended Soybean Varieties for S.C.[m
-DOC-
[1m                  l988 Recommended Soybean Varieties for S.C.[m
                     James H. Palmer, Extension Agronomist

What is a recommended variety?

    A recommended variety is one which has been tested  in  South  Carolina  by 
Clemson  University  for  at least 3 years and has performed equal to or better 
than one or more currently recommended varieties in yield  or  other  important 
traits.  A committee meets annually to analyze the current recommended list and 
study  test results to see if new varieties should be added and others deleted.
For soybeans, yield,  disease resistance,  and various agronomic traits such as 
lodging resistance, are considered in the recommendation deliberation.  

    In  the  tables  that  follow,  information  is given about the recommended 
variety's maturity group,  region and planting date adaptation,  and disease  & 
nematode  tolerance.  For further information on disease resistance,  agronomic 
characteristics, and yield performance refer to Extension Circulars 545 and l94 
available in the county Extension offices.  Also, the BEAN-AID computer program 
is available with similar information.  
[1m                  l988 Recommended Soybean Varieties for S.C.[m
[7m
                       -----Region & Planting Date Rec.*-----    Disease and  
 Variety               Mat. Group  Pdmt.   SV   PD   Coastal     Nem. Tol.**  
[m
Deltapine l05              V        E       E    E      E          --
Pioneer Brand 957l         V        E       E    E      E        RiC 3,4  
Hartz 5370                 V        E       E    E      E        RiC 3
Coker 485                  V        E       E    E      E        RiC 3 LaSC
[1m
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
[m
*E=Early or full-season:  May l0-June l0 for Piedmont, Savannah Valley, and
 Pee Dee and May l5-June 30 for Coastal area.
 L = Late or double-crop:  June ll-July l for Piedmont and Pee Dee; June ll-
 July 5 for Savannah Valley
VL=Very late:  July 5-July 25 in Savannah Valley
VL(I)=Very late (irrigation only): After July 5 in Savannah Valley
**indicates tolerance to one or more of the following:  Ri=Rootknot (M. 
incognita); Ra=Rootknot (M. arenaria); C=Soybean cyst, Race 3 or Race 3 and 4 
(H. glycines); La=Lance (H. columbus); SC=stem canker)
[7m (Pdmt. - Piedmont; PD = Pee Dee; SV = Savannah Valley) [m
[1m                  l988 Recommended Soybean Varieties for S.C.[m
[7m
                       -----Region & Planting Date Rec.*-----    Disease and  
 Variety               Mat. Group  Pdmt.   SV   PD   Coastal     Nem. Tol.**  
[m
RA 680                     VI       E       E    E,L    E        RiC 3 SC
Centennial                 VI       -       E    E      E        RiC 3 LaSC
Twiggs                     VI       E       E    E      E        RiRaC 3 SC
Deltapine 566              VI       E       E    E      E        SC
LeFlore                    VI       E       E    E      E        RiC 3,4
Young                      VI       E       E    E      E          --
[1m----------------------------------------------------------------------------
[m*E=Early or full-season:  May l0-June l0 for Piedmont, Savannah Valley,  
 and Pee Dee and May l5-June 30 for Coastal area.
 L = Late or double-crop:  June ll-July l for Piedmont and Pee Dee; June ll-
 July 5 for Savannah Valley
VL=Very late:  July 5-July 25 in Savannah Valley
VL(I)=Very late (irrigation only): After July 5 in Savannah Valley
**indicates tolerance to one or more of the following:  Ri=Rootknot (M. 
incognita); Ra=Rootknot (M. arenaria); C=Soybean cyst, Race 3 or Race 3 and 4 
(H. glycines); La=Lance (H. columbus); SC=stem canker)
[7m (Pdmt. - Piedmont; PD = Pee Dee; SV = Savannah Valley) [m
[1m                 l988 Recommended Soybean Varieties for S.C.[m[7m
                      -----Region & Planting Date Rec.*-----   Disease and   
 Variety               Mat. Group  Pdmt.   SV   PD   Coastal    Nem. Tol.**  [m
Braxton                    VII     E,L     E,L  E,L     E       RiRaSC
GaSoy l7                   VII     E,L     E    E,L     E         --
Gordon                     VII     E,L     E,L  E,L     E       RiRaC 3
Hartz 7l26                 VII     E,L     E,L  E,L     E       C 3
NK's McNair 770            VII     E,L     E,L  E,L     E       C 3
Coker 6727                 VII     E,L     E,L  E,L     E       RiC 3 SC
Hartz 7ll0                 VII     E,L     E,L  E,L     E       RiC 3
Deltapine 417              VII      L       L    L      L       Ri  [1m
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
[m*E=Early or full-season:  May l0-June l0 for Piedmont, Savannah Valley,  
 and Pee Dee and May l5-June 30 for Coastal area.
 L = Late or double-crop:  June ll-July l for Piedmont and Pee Dee; June ll-
 July 5 for Savannah Valley
VL=Very late:  July 5-July 25 in Savannah Valley
VL(I)=Very late (irrigation only): After July 5 in Savannah Valley
**indicates tolerance to one or more of the following:  Ri=Rootknot (M. 
incognita); Ra=Rootknot (M. arenaria); C=Soybean cyst, Race 3 or Race 3 and 4 
(H. glycines); La=Lance (H. columbus); SC=stem canker)
[7m (Pdmt. - Piedmont; PD = Pee Dee; SV = Savannah Valley) [m
[1m                  l988 Recommended Soybean Varieties for S.C.[m
[7m
                       -----Region & Planting Date Rec.*-----   Disease and  
 Variety               Mat. Group  Pdmt.   SV   PD   Coastal    Nem. Tol.**  
[m
Coker 368                  VIII    E,L     E,L  E,L     E        RiCLaSC
Kirby                      VIII    E,L     E,L  E,L    E,L       RiRaC 3 LaSC
Coker 6738                 VIII    E,L     E,L  E,L     E        RiRaC 3 SC
Foster                     VIII    E,L     E,L  E,L    E,L       RiC 3 LaSC
Perrin                     VIII    E,L     E,L  E,L    E,L       RiRaSC[1m
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
[m*E=Early or full-season:  May l0-June l0 for Piedmont, Savannah Valley,  
 and Pee Dee and May l5-June 30 for Coastal area.
 L = Late or double-crop:  June ll-July l for Piedmont and Pee Dee; June ll-
 July 5 for Savannah Valley
VL=Very late:  July 5-July 25 in Savannah Valley
VL(I)=Very late (irrigation only): After July 5 in Savannah Valley
**indicates tolerance to one or more of the following:  Ri=Rootknot (M. 
incognita); Ra=Rootknot (M. arenaria); C=Soybean cyst, Race 3 or Race 3 and 4 
(H. glycines); La=Lance (H. columbus); SC=stem canker)

[7m (Pdmt. - Piedmont; PD = Pee Dee; SV = Savannah Valley) [m
[1m                  l988 Recommended Soybean Varieties for S.C.[m
[7m
                       -----Region & Planting Date Rec.*-----    Disease and  
 Variety               Mat. Group  Pdmt.   SV   PD   Coastal     Nem. Tol.**  
[m
[1mSpecial Use[m
Cobb                       VIII     --     L,VL,  L      L       RiSC
                                           VL(I)
Duocrop                    VII      --     VL(I)  --    --         --[1m
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
[m
*E=Early or full-season:  May l0-June l0 for Piedmont, Savannah Valley, and
 Pee Dee and May l5-June 30 for Coastal area.
 L = Late or double-crop:  June ll-July l for Piedmont and Pee Dee; June ll-
 July 5 for Savannah Valley
VL=Very late:  July 5-July 25 in Savannah Valley
VL(I)=Very late (irrigation only): After July 5 in Savannah Valley
**indicates tolerance to one or more of the following:  Ri=Rootknot (M. 
incognita); Ra=Rootknot (M. arenaria); C=Soybean cyst, Race 3 or Race 3 and 4 
(H. glycines); La=Lance (H. columbus); SC=stem canker)

[7m (Pdmt. - Piedmont; PD = Pee Dee; SV = Savannah Valley) [m
[1mWhen do soybeans mature?[m

In general the maturity groups we plant in South  Carolina  mature  as  follows 
when planted full-season in May.  Add approximately l0 days to these dates when 
planting after June l0 or so.  

          Group V -- Very early (Oct. l-l5)  
          Group VI -- Early (Oct. l0-25)
          Group VII -- Medium (Oct. 20-Nov. 5)
          Group VIII -- Late (Oct. 30-Nov. l5)

[1mWhat about soybean varieties for forage?[m

Adapted, bushy-type, oil-seed varieties, such as Cobb, Kirby, or Deltapine 4l7, 
and  the indeterminate,  oil-seed variety,  Duocrop,  may be planted for forage 
purposes.
Maximum yields and quality for soybeans  used  for  forage  are  obtained  when 
harvested  at  the  pod stage.  In Clemson research,  the greatest leaf to stem 
ratio,  crude protein percentage,  and forage yield was  at  the  R6  stage  of 
growth.  This  can  be  described  as  the  stage  at which the plant has a pod 
containing full-size green 'beans at one of the four  uppermost  nodes  on  the 
main stem.  Leaves arising at the node should have a completely unrolled leaf.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SELECTION OF HYBRIDS TO PLANT SHOULD BE BASED ON AT LEAST 3-YEAR DATA.        
-DOC-
    SELECTION OF HYBRIDS TO PLANT SHOULD BE BASED ON AT LEAST 3-YEAR DATA.    

         IRRIGATED SHORT- AND MID-SEASON HYBRID PERFORMANCE - COASTAL
         PLAIN:  PEE DEE RESEARCH AND EDUCATION CENTER, FLORENCE, S.C.
                    (AVERAGE OF ALL HYBRIDS TESTED 3 YEARS)
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    COMPANY OR                 PER ACRE  HARVEST   TEST    TEST WEIGHT MID
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID     YIELD     MOISTURE  WEIGHT  MOISTURE    SILK
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               (BU)       (PCT)    (LB/BU)  (PCT)    (DAYS)
      1985                     154.2      15.3       62     13.1      80.0
      1986                     152.5      17.1       56     20.0      74.2
      1987                     156.7      19.0       58     15.1      63.4
      3-YEAR                   154.5      17.1       59     16.1      72.4
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                            (3-YEAR AVERAGES, 1985-87)
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    COMPANY OR                 PER ACRE  HARVEST   TEST    TEST WEIGHT MID
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID     YIELD     MOISTURE  WEIGHT  MOISTURE    SILK
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               (BU)       (PCT)    (LB/BU)  (PCT)    (DAYS)
    DEKALB-PFIZER   DK789      181.1      18.6       56     16.7      74.6
    MCCURDY         8172       166.7      18.0       59     17.1      75.1
    SUNBELT         1860       163.8      19.0       59     15.6      76.5
    PIONEER         3165       163.2      18.1       59     15.9      74.3
    DEKALB-PFIZER   DK689      161.5      16.8       58     15.5      73.6
    SUNBELT         1802       160.5      17.0       59     15.6      71.4
    PIONEER         3382       156.9      16.1       58     15.1      71.4
    FUNK            G-4614     156.8      17.3       60     16.6      73.5
    COKER           21         156.4      17.7       58     16.7      73.3
    FUNK            RA1502     156.4      16.7       59     15.5      71.6
    DELTA PINE      DP5750     154.7      17.5       61     16.2      72.6
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    L.S.D. (.05)                17.0       0.6        1      NSD       0.7
    C.V. (%)                    16.7       5.7        3     11.2       1.6
    STD. ERR. OF ENTRY MEAN      6.1       0.2       0.5     0.6       0.3
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                            (3-YEAR AVERAGES, 1985-87)
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    COMPANY OR                 PER ACRE  HARVEST   TEST    TEST WEIGHT MID
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID     YIELD     MOISTURE  WEIGHT  MOISTURE    SILK
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               (BU)       (PCT)    (LB/BU)  (PCT)    (DAYS)
    NORTHRUP-KING   PX9581     150.9      16.9       60     14.2      70.7
    CARGILL         SX352      146.9      15.8       59     16.1      70.6
    CARGILL         7990       150.9      16.8       57     16.0      71.3
    PIONEER         3389       146.4      17.0       59     16.4      70.1
    PIONEER         3192       146.2      17.1       61     16.3      70.7
    PIONEER         3320       144.1      16.9       58     17.0      71.5
    COKER           8575       139.2      16.2       56     16.4      71.0
    COKER           8601       131.8      16.6       58     16.5      72.7
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    L.S.D. (.05)                17.0       0.6        1      NSD       0.7
    C.V. (%)                    16.7       5.7        3     11.2       1.6
    STD. ERR. OF ENTRY MEAN      6.1       0.2       0.5     0.6       0.3
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SELECTION OF HYBRIDS TO PLANT SHOULD BE BASED ON AT LEAST 3-YEAR DATA.    
-DOC-
    SELECTION OF HYBRIDS TO PLANT SHOULD BE BASED ON AT LEAST 3-YEAR DATA.

         IRRIGATED SHORT- AND MID-SEASON HYBRID PERFORMANCE - COASTAL
         PLAIN:  PEE DEE RESEARCH AND EDUCATION CENTER, FLORENCE, S.C.
                          (2-YEAR AVERAGES, 1986-87)
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    COMPANY OR                 PER ACRE   STANDING     HARVEST     MID
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID     YIELD      PLANTS       MOISTURE    SILK
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               (BU)        (PCT)        (PCT)      (DAYS)
    DEKALB-PFIZER   DK789      177.4        97.6         20.0       70.9
    MCCURDY         8172       170.8        95.9         19.1       71.4
    AGRATECH        GK900      167.7        94.6         18.5       68.6
    MCCURDY         7800       162.8        91.9         19.0       69.3
    DEKALB-PFIZER   DK689      162.6        96.0         17.8       70.1
    SEEDTEC         ST-7750    162.3        97.5         17.6       69.7
    PIONEER         3110       162.0        98.4         18.6       70.7
    COKER           21         161.6        95.6         18.7       69.7
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    AVERAGES                   153.3        94.9         18.1       68.8
    L.S.D. (.05)                17.8         4.1          0.9        0.8
    COMPANY OR                 PER ACRE   STANDING     HARVEST     MID
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID     YIELD      PLANTS       MOISTURE    SILK
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               (BU)        (PCT)        (PCT)      (DAYS)
    SUNBELT         1860       160.3        91.8         20.1       71.8
    DELTA PINE      DP5750     159.7        98.2         18.1       69.2
    PIONEER         3165       158.6        93.8         19.2       70.8
    DEKALB-PFIZER   DK711      157.9        95.0         19.0       69.5
    FUNK            RA1502     156.5        96.0         17.5       67.7
    CARGILL         7990       155.6        94.8         17.7       67.8
    SEEDTEC         2775A      155.4        95.2         19.2       70.3
    AGRATECH        GK750      154.9        96.7         16.6       67.9
    PIONEER         3389       154.7        95.2         17.6       67.0
    AGRATECH        GK850      153.5        94.2         18.4       67.8
    NORTHRUP-KING   PX9581     152.0        94.9         17.6       66.9
    SUNBELT         1802       151.4        94.4         17.8       67.5
    FUNK            G-4614     151.0        95.3         18.2       69.3
    PIONEER         3192       149.3        96.8         17.8       67.4
    PIONEER         3320       149.2        90.3         17.9       68.3
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    AVERAGES                   153.3        94.9         18.1       68.8
    L.S.D. (.05)                17.8         4.1          0.9        0.8
    COMPANY OR                 PER ACRE   STANDING     HARVEST     MID
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID     YIELD      PLANTS       MOISTURE    SILK
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               (BU)        (PCT)        (PCT)      (DAYS)
    COKER           8690       146.6        95.3         18.5       68.4
    PIONEER         3382       145.4        96.0         16.8       67.4
    COKER           8575       144.9        91.0         16.9       67.3
    CARGILL         SX352      143.4        93.5         16.5       66.9
    COKER           8601       133.6        96.1         17.5       69.1
    SUNBELT         5613       131.3        95.7         17.5       67.1
    SUNBELT         5615       131.1        93.5         18.6       69.0
    JACQUES         8350       129.6        93.1         17.1       67.9
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    AVERAGES                   153.3        94.9         18.1       68.8
    L.S.D. (.05)                17.8         4.1          0.9        0.8
    C.V. (%)                    14.5         5.1          6.2        1.4
    STD. ERR. OF ENTRY MEAN      6.4         1.6          0.3        0.3
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SELECTION OF HYBRIDS TO PLANT SHOULD BE BASED ON AT LEAST 3-YEAR DATA.    
-DOC-
    SELECTION OF HYBRIDS TO PLANT SHOULD BE BASED ON AT LEAST 3-YEAR DATA.
 
         IRRIGATED SHORT- AND MID-SEASON HYBRID PERFORMANCE - COASTAL
         PLAIN:  PEE DEE RESEARCH AND EDUCATION CENTER, FLORENCE, S.C.
                                  (1987 DATA)
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    COMPANY OR                 PER ACRE   STANDING     HARVEST     MID
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID     YIELD      PLANTS       MOISTURE    SILK
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               (BU)        (PCT)        (PCT)      (DAYS)
    DEKALB-PFIZER   DK789      182.6        98.6         21.2       65.7
    SUNBELT         1827       179.2        98.0         20.2       64.5
    DELTA PINE      DPX9986    172.7        98.2         20.7       66.3
    MCCURDY         8172       172.4        97.5         20.2       66.2
    PIONEER         3165       172.2        99.0         20.4       65.5
    FUNK            RA1502     169.7        97.1         18.6       61.8
    FUNK            EXEL6080E  169.7       100.0         18.8       63.7
    NORTHRUP-KING   PX9646     168.4        97.1         19.5       66.3
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    AVERAGES                   154.3        98.6         19.0       63.7
    L.S.D. (.05)                21.8         NSD          1.2        1.4
    COMPANY OR                 PER ACRE   STANDING     HARVEST     MID
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID     YIELD      PLANTS       MOISTURE    SILK
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               (BU)        (PCT)        (PCT)      (DAYS)
    AGRATECH        GK900      168.3        97.6         19.8       63.0
    JACQUES         8210       167.0        98.6         18.9       62.7
    COKER           21         165.5        97.3         19.8       64.2
    SUNBELT         1860       163.8        97.9         21.8       66.2
    SUNBELT         1802       161.1        99.3         18.7       61.8
    FUNK            G-4666     161.0        99.8         19.1       64.2
    AGRATECH        GK850      159.9        99.3         18.7       61.3
    DEKALB-PFIZER   DK689      159.0        98.2         18.6       64.7
    COKER           CX5059     157.7        99.1         18.8       63.3
    DELTA PINE      DPX8751    157.1        97.6         19.7       62.5
    CARGILL         7990       157.0        97.4         19.2       62.5
    MCCURDY         7800       156.9        97.8         20.1       63.8
    SUNBELT         5613       156.5        98.8         18.9       61.8
    SEEDTEC         ST-7750    156.3        98.8         18.8       64.7
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    AVERAGES                   154.3        98.6         19.0       63.7
    L.S.D. (.05)                21.8         NSD          1.2        1.4
    COMPANY OR                 PER ACRE   STANDING     HARVEST     MID
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID     YIELD      PLANTS       MOISTURE    SILK
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               (BU)        (PCT)        (PCT)      (DAYS)
    NORTHRUP-KING   PX9581     155.1        98.5         18.2       61.0
    DEKALB-PFIZER   DK711      155.0        98.8         20.7       64.3
    PIONEER         3389       154.0        98.6         18.4       61.8
    DELTA PINE      DPX6650    151.7        99.3         17.2       61.8
    FUNK            G-4543     150.9       100.0         16.9       63.3
    DELTA PINE      DP5750     150.9        99.8         19.2       63.2
    PIONEER         3320       150.3        98.0         18.6       62.5
    PIONEER         3192       149.4        99.1         18.7       62.3
    COKER           8690       148.2        99.5         19.4       63.2
    COKER           8575       147.3        99.0         17.5       63.0
    DELTA PINE      DPX7345    146.5        99.1         17.5       65.0
    PIONEER         3110       145.8        99.6         19.4       65.3
    COKER           8601       145.6        98.5         18.6       65.0
    ASGROW/O'SGOLD  RX905      145.4        97.1         18.1       65.3
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    AVERAGES                   154.3        98.6         19.0       63.7
    L.S.D. (.05)                21.8         NSD          1.2        1.4
    COMPANY OR                 PER ACRE   STANDING     HARVEST     MID
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID     YIELD      PLANTS       MOISTURE    SILK
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               (BU)        (PCT)        (PCT)      (DAYS)
    FUNK            G-4614     145.4        98.7         18.7       63.3
    AGRATECH        GK750      141.5        99.1         17.2       63.3
    FUNK            G-4743     140.4        99.3         19.8       65.2
    PIONEER         3382       139.6        99.0         17.5       61.7
    DELTA-PINE      DPX4151    138.0        99.2         17.1       63.7
    SEEDTEC         2775A      137.5        98.4         20.4       65.8
    CARGILL         SX352      137.0        98.5         16.9       61.8
    DELTA PINE      DPX4670    134.4        98.0         17.6       61.7
    SUNBELT         5615       127.5        98.7         20.4       65.0
    JACQUES         8350       127.4        98.8         17.7       63.3
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    AVERAGES                   154.3        98.6         19.0       63.7
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    L.S.D. (.05)                21.8         NSD          1.2        1.4
    C.V. (%)                    12.4         1.7          5.7        1.9
    STD. ERR. OF ENTRY MEAN      7.8         0.7          0.4        0.5
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SELECTION OF HYBRIDS TO PLANT SHOULD BE BASED ON AT LEAST 3-YEAR DATA.    
-DOC-
    SELECTION OF HYBRIDS TO PLANT SHOULD BE BASED ON AT LEAST 3-YEAR DATA.

         IRRIGATED SHORT- AND MID-SEASON HYBRID PERFORMANCE - COASTAL
         PLAIN:  PEE DEE RESEARCH AND EDUCATION CENTER, FLORENCE, S.C.
                               (1987 DATA)
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    COMPANY OR                  TEST WT    % TEST        PLANTS/A  HUSK (#)
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID (*)  (LB/BU)    MOISTURE      X1000     COVERAGE
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    DEKALB-PFIZER   DK789         54          16.4        28.2      3.0
    SUNBELT         1827          57          15.7        26.6      1.7
    DELTA PINE      DPX9986       58          15.5        28.2      2.8
    MCCURDY         8172          59          16.0        27.0      2.7
    PIONEER         3165          57          15.8        28.7      1.8
    FUNK            RA1502        59          14.9        26.2      2.0
    FUNK            EXEL6080E     59          14.4        26.8      1.0
    NORTHRUP-KING   PX9646        58          14.9        27.0      2.5
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    AVERAGES                      59          15.0        26.1      2.0
    L.S.D. (.05)                  1.6          0.8         2.5      0.4
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
 (*) in order of descending yield; (#) l=long tight husk; 5=short loose husk
    COMPANY OR                  TEST WT    % TEST        PLANTS/A  HUSK (#)
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID (*)  (LB/BU)    MOISTURE      X1000     COVERAGE
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    AGRATECH        GK900         61          14.7        26.4      2.7
    JACQUES         8210          60          14.7        26.3      1.5
    COKER           21            59          15.2        22.8      2.0
    SUNBELT         1860          57          16.1        26.3      2.0
    SUNBELT         1802          58          15.6        28.7      1.3
    FUNK            G-4666        60          15.1        26.6      1.0
    AGRATECH        GK850         59          14.7        24.1      1.8
    DEKALB-PFIZER   DK689         57          14.8        27.2      2.2
    COKER           CX5059        59          15.5        24.4      1.2
    DELTA PINE      DPX8751       59          15.0        24.9      2.2
    CARGILL         7990          58          14.3        27.4      2.5
    MCCURDY         7800          62          14.8        25.9      2.5
    SUNBELT         5613          58          15.2        23.2      2.0
    SEEDTEC         ST-7750       60          14.5        25.1      1.8
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 
    AVERAGES                      59          15.0        26.1      2.0
    L.S.D. (.05)                  1.6          0.8         2.5      0.4
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
 (*) in order of descending yield; (#) l=long tight husk; 5=short loose husk
    COMPANY OR                  TEST WT    % TEST        PLANTS/A  HUSK (#)
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID (*)  (LB/BU)    MOISTURE      X1000     COVERAGE
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    NORTHRUP-KING   PX9581        58          14.8        26.6      1.8
    DEKALB-PFIZER   DK711         61          14.9        28.0      2.0
    PIONEER         3389          60          14.3        25.0      3.2
    DELTA PINE      DPX6650       62          14.3        24.7      2.0
    FUNK            G-4543        62          14.3        27.9      1.3
    DELTA PINE      DP5750        61          14.7        26.6      1.0
    PIONEER         3320          57          15.8        25.9      2.0
    PIONEER         3192          62          14.3        26.2      1.5
    COKER           8690          57          15.7        26.1      3.0
    COKER           8575          57          15.3        26.1      3.0
    DELTA PINE      DPX7345       58          14.1        25.7      2.0
    PIONEER         3110          59          15.1        26.4      2.0
    COKER           8601          58          15.1        26.6      2.0
    ASGROW/O'SGOLD  RX905         58          14.7        28.2      1.7
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    AVERAGES                      59          15.0        26.1      2.0
    L.S.D. (.05)                  1.6          0.8         2.5      0.4
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
 (*) in order of descending yield; (#) l=long tight husk; 5=short loose husk
    COMPANY OR                  TEST WT    % TEST        PLANTS/A  HUSK (#)
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID (*)  (LB/BU)    MOISTURE      X1000     COVERAGE
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    FUNK            G-4614        60          14.8        21.8      2.3
    AGRATECH        GK750         61          14.6        25.1      1.2
    FUNK            G-4743        59          14.9        25.0      2.0
    PIONEER         3382          57          14.6        24.7      2.0
    DELTA-PINE      DPX4151       61          14.5        27.1      1.7
    SEEDTEC         2775A         57          14.6        25.7      2.2
    CARGILL         SX352         60          14.3        27.0      2.2
    DELTA PINE      DPX4670       59          15.1        25.6      1.7
    SUNBELT         5615          58          15.4        26.2      2.0
    JACQUES         8350          59          14.0        26.3      1.2
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    AVERAGES                      59          15.0        26.1      2.0
    L.S.D. (.05)                  1.6          0.8         2.5      0.4
    C.V. (%)                      1.7          3.3         8.4     19.6
    STD. ERR. OF ENTRY MEAN       0.6          0.3         0.9      0.2
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
     (*) LISTED IN ORDER OF DESCENDING YIELD
     (#) 1 = LONG TIGHT HUSK; 5 = SHORT LOOSE HUSK

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SELECTION OF HYBRIDS TO PLANT SHOULD BE BASED ON AT LEAST 3-YEAR DATA    
-DOC-
    SELECTION OF HYBRIDS TO PLANT SHOULD BE BASED ON AT LEAST 3-YEAR DATA

               IRRIGATED FULL-SEASON HYBRID PERFORMANCE - 
               COASTAL PLAIN:  PEE DEE RESEARCH AND EDUCATION 
               CENTER FLORENCE, S.C.
                                  (1987 DATA)
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    COMPANY OR                 PER ACRE   HARVEST     TEST      TEST WEIGHT
    BRAND NAME      HYBRID     YIELD      MOISTURE    WEIGHT    MOISTURE
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               (BU)        (PCT)      (LB/BU)     (PCT)

    DELTA PINE      DPX9686    151.4       18.8         59        14.6

    SUNBELT         1876       128.2       23.1         53        16.6
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    AVERAGES                   139.8       20.9         56        15.6
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    L.S.D. (.05)                 NSD        1.3         1.7       18.7
    C.V. (%)                    16.8        4.1         0.8        3.3
    STD. ERR. OF ENTRY MEAN      9.7        0.4         1.7        0.3
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Yield Response and Soil Selection                       
-DOC-
                       Yield Response and Soil Selection
                       J. H. Palmer, Extension Agronomist

    Clemson research has shown that soybean yields may be increased an  average 
of  10  to  15 bushels per acre with irrigation.  In dry years (e.g.  1986) the 
increase may be 30 to 40 bushels,  while in years of mostly  optimum  rainfall, 
the  increase  may  be  5  bushels  or  less.  Table  1 shows the results of an 
experiment comparing irrigation with no irrigation  for  the  Cobb  and  Ransom 
varieties.   This  research  was  conducted  on  productive  soils  which  have 
potential for producing high yields with good rainfall.  In another  seven-year 
study  at  Blackville,  yields  averaged  34  bushels  for no irrigation and 44 
bushels with irrigation.  Realistic yield goals for  soybean  growers  who  use 
supplemental irrigation are 50 to 55 bushels per acre for full-season plantings 
and 40 to 45 bushels for soybeans planted double-crop behind small grains.  
Table 1.  Yield  (BU/A)  of  Cobb  and  Ransom varieties  of soybeans, 
          irrigation vs.  no irrigation,  1977-78.  Edisto  Experiment 
          Station, Blackville, S.C.  

Variety                   No irrigation                        Irrigation

Ransom                        43.5                                52.4
Cobb                          41.6                                46.1   

Research by:  H. L. Musen and V. L. Quisenberry	
              Department of Agronomy and Soils, Clemson University

    It is very important that well-drained, highly-productive soils be selected 
for  irrigation.  Fields  should  be  mapped  to determine the predominant soil 
types present.  For example, in the Coastal Plain,  a field with mostly Norfolk 
soil  will  be  much more productive with irrigation than one with mostly sandy 
Lakeland or Wagram  soils.  For  good  soils,  irrigation  becomes  a  kind  of 
"insurance  policy"  for  optimizing  soybean  yields.  For more information or 
assistance in mapping fields to determine crop yield potential  or  suitability 
for irrigation, consult the local office of the USDA Soil Conservation Service.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ZINC RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN                         
-DOC-
                         ZINC RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN
              C. L. Parks and J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomists

     Zinc deficiency has been observed on the young corn in cold soil; but with 
warmer  temperatures the corn grows out of it and applications of zinc have not 
produced a yield increase.  Severe zinc deficiencies may occur when deep  sandy 
soils are limed to a pH of 6.5 or higher.	 	 

     Soils  with  the suggested soil pH range (5.8-6.5) will have adequate zinc 
for corn production if the soil test is 1.8 pounds per acre or higher.	 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN ECONOMICS                                 
-DOC-
                                 CORN ECONOMICS
            Charles E. Curtis, Jr., Extension Agricultural Economist

COST OF PRODUCTION

    Producers who follow the practices recommended in this  publication  should 
be able to produce corn at a profit.  The key to knowing how much profit can be 
expected  begins  with constructing a detailed enterprise budget.  Good budgets 
are based on past farm records and careful  study  of  production  and  outlook 
information.	 

    The  budgets  shown  in Table 16 are presented as useful guide-lines.  Each 
budget is constructed by applying a price to the recommended production inputs. 
The budgets are divided into variable and fixed costs.  Variable  costs  change 
with production inputs from year to year,  whereas fixed costs generally remain 
constant each year.  Total costs are the sum of variable  and  fixed  costs.  A 
space is provided for growers to enter their own costs.	 
    In  many years,  income is not adequate to cover total costs of production. 
However, fixed costs can be delayed in the short run (1 or 2 production years).
Thus,  the short-run production decision is that  as  long  as  income  exceeds 
variable  costs,  production  can  be economically justified.  In the long run, 
profits  must  exceed  total  production  costs  if  production  is  to  remain 
economically viable.	 

    One  way  to  estimate profit is to determine the breakeven price needed to 
cover production costs and compare it with  the  expected  selling  price.  The 
breakeven price is calculated by dividing production costs by yield.	 

     The  guideline budgets show the breakeven price per bushel needed to cover 
variable  and  total  costs.   In  the  Piedmont  80-bushel-yield  budget,  the 
breakeven  price  per  bushel needed to cover variable costs is $1.59 and $2.31 
per bushel to cover total costs.  For the Coastal Plains,  the breakeven  price 
needed to cover variable costs is $1.48 and $1.36 per bushel for the 100 bushel 
dryland and 160 bushel irrigated yields,  respectively.  The breakeven price to 
cover total costs is $2.13 and $2.34 for the same respective  yields.  One  way 
to  increase  profits  is  to follow recommended production practices that will 
improve yields and minimize costs.	 
     TABLE 16. ESTIMATED COSTS OF PRODUCTION PER ACRE FOR CORN, 1986.
________________________________________________________________________
                                  Yield per Acre	
                          _______________________________
                           Piedmont      Coastal Plains      My Farm
                           ________     __________________  
                            80 bu       100 bu    160 bu*    _________bu
________________________________________________________________________
Variable Costs:
 
Seed                       $ 18.00     $ 18.00    $ 25.20     _________
Fertilizer and Lime          50.90       56.11      75.35     _________ 
Chemicals                     5.00       15.50      15.50     _________
Tractors, Machinery,
  Equipment                  20.67       21.61      50.06     _________ 
Labor                        13.21       12.59      14.79     _________
Drying                       14.40       17.99      28.80     _________ 
Interest on Operating 
  Capital                     4.98        6.15       8.63     _________
                           _______     _______    _______  
  Total Variable Costs     $127.16     $147.95    $218.33     _________ 
Fixed Costs:

Tractors, Machinery,
  Equipment                $ 27.35     $ 28.42    $ 28.60     _________ 
Land Charge                  20.00       25.00      25.00     _________
Irrigation Machinery          -           -         85.22     _________ 
General Overhead Charge 
  (8% of Variable Costs)     10.17       11.84      17.47     _________
                           _______     _______    _______
  Total Fixed Costs        $ 57.52     $ 65.26    $156.28     _________ 
 
Total Costs                $184.68     $213.21    $374.61     _________
 
Breakeven Price/Bu
  -- Variable Costs        $  1.59     $  1.48    $  1.36     _________ 
 
Breakeven Price/Bu	
  -- Total Costs           $  2.31     $  2.13    $  2.34     _________
________________________________________________________________________
*Irrigated (200-Acre Center Pivot)









	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN MARKETING TIPS                       
-DOC-
                       CORN MARKETING TIPS
     Charles E. Curtis, Jr., Extension Agricultural Economist
	
     Good budgets are basic to successful marketing.  To get top dollar, plan a 
sound marketing strategy based  on  the  budgeted  unit  costs  of  production.
Producers should review net returns over the variable production costs expected 
from  participation  versus  nonparticipation  in  annual  Federal  Feed  Grain 
Programs.  

     Keep up with and study current market information reports  available  from 
USDA,  private  sources,  and Clemson University.  Learn how the futures market 
works and know your local basis - the relationship between  local  cash  prices 
and  the  Chicago futures price.  Determine if storage for later sale is likely 
to be profitable by calculating your total storage and handling costs  and  the 
expected  local  cash  price  for  the month of sale.  Consider using a futures 
market or cash contract to forward price part of the crop and lock in a selling 
price that will  provide  acceptable  returns.  Refer  to  Economics  Extension 
Report,  EER 39,  Corn and Soybean Basis in South Carolina, available from your 
county Extension office,  for additional tips on how to market wisely  and  get 
top dollar for your crop.	 













	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STARTER FERTILIZERS FOR CORN                          
-DOC-
                          STARTER FERTILIZERS FOR CORN
              J. P. Zublena and C. L. Parks, Extension Agronomists

     Research in South Carolina,  Florida,  Alabama, Georgia and North Carolina 
have shown that placement of some fertilizer near the seed at planting  can  be 
an  effective  way to increase corn yields in years with good rainfall or under 
irrigation.  Optimum placement of  the  "starter  fertilizer"  is  still  being 
investigated.  However,  all states have shown placement of fertilizer 2 inches 
to the side and two inches below  the  seed  (2x2)  to  be  one  of  the  best.
Alternative  placement methods are being investigated because of the difficulty 
of setting up the 2x2 system on different planter tool bars.	 	 

     Alternative  starter  fertilizer  placements  that  are  currently   being 
investigated  include:  placement below the seed in the subsoil ripper zone and 
placement over the row in either a band or  dribble  application.  Applications 
over  the  row  have proven as effective as 2x2 placement in Florida.  However, 
research in South Carolina and North Carolina does not currently  support  this 
method  of  application.  Conversely,  placement  below the seed in the subsoil 
ripper zone looks quite effective in both of the Carolinas but not in  Florida.
Success  with  under  the  seed  placement  requires  the insertion of a nozzle 
directed  away  from the subsoil shank that will spray the fertilizer with some 
pressure.  Spray tips such as  K-3  or  K-5  have  proven  effective  in  South 
Carolina.  Depth  of  placement  below  the  seed is also important.  Data from 
South Carolina in 1985 and 1986 has shown placement 2" and 4" below the seed to 
be effective.  Placement of fertilizer at greater depths may result  in  slower 
uptake  of  the nutrients.  Placement of a starter fertilizer in direct contact 
with the seed is not recommended because of potential fertilizer burn.  Optimum 
nutrient combinations and rates for starter  fertilizers  are  currently  being 
investigated.  Most studies agree that some nitrogen and phosphorus are needed.
	 
     General  guidelines  are between 10 to 40 lb/ac of each nutrient.  Use the 
low rate of nitrogen when using a very early N-sidedressing  and  higher  rates 
with  later  N-sidedressings.  Use  the low rate of phosphorus on soils testing 
very high in phosphorus and the higher rates on soils testing medium to low  in 
phosphorus.	 
	 
     Addition of potassium has had  varied  results.  Most  positive  responses 
have  been  on  highly  leachable  soils  when  potassium  was not sidedressed.
Micronutrients or secondary elements should be added on the basis of past plant 
tissue analyses and soil tests  where  applicable.  The  most  commonly  needed 
secondary or micronutrients for corn are sulfur, zinc, and boron.	  
	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BORON AND MANGANESE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN                  
-DOC-
                  BORON AND MANGANESE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN
              C. L. Parks and J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomists

     Soil in the suggested pH range (5.8-6.5) will have adequate manganese  and 
boron for corn production.	 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SULFUR RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN                        
-DOC-
                        SULFUR RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN
              C. L. Parks and J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomists

     Rainfall supplies about 8 pounds of sulfur per acre per year.  Soils  with 
the  clay  layer  within  the root zone will generally have adequate sulfur for 
corn production if culture practices and climate favor root growth to the  clay 
layer.  On  sandy  soils,  apply  some sulfur when phosphorus and potassium are 
applied and/or when starter fertilizer is applied.	 
	 
     Sulfur   deficiency   shows  up  as  yellow  leaves  similar  to  nitrogen 
deficiency.  This usually occurs when there  is  too  much  rainfall  on  young 
plants  shortly  after  planting.  When correcting sulfur deficiency,  band the 
fertilizer containing sulfur near the row.	 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NITROGEN RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN                       
-DOC-
                       NITROGEN RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN
               C.L. Parks and J.P. Zublena, Extension Agronomists

     The most  profitable  nitrogen  rate  depends  on  soil,  rainfall,  plant 
population,  and  cultural practices.  The suggested rate for most of the state 
is 120 pounds of nitrogen per acre.  For  very  sandy  soils  where  the  yield 
potential is 80 bushels per acre or less,  100 pounds per acre is adequate.  In 
river bottoms or locations where yields of 130 bushels per  acre  or  more  are 
often produced or when corn is grown for silage, use 150 pounds per acre.  When 
corn  is irrigated,  increase the rate to 200 pounds per acre.  Reduce the rate 
by 20 to 30 pounds per acre when corn follows soybeans or other  legumes  in  a 
rotation.  All  nitrogen sources are equally effective for corn production when 
applied correctly.	 	 

     Apply 30 to 40 pounds of nitrogen at planting.  The best way  is  to  band 
nitrogen  2  inches to the side and 2 inches below the seed or on the surface 2 
inches to the side of the drill row.  Another way is to apply it in a band over 
the row.  If banded over the row, use the lower rate and have the band at least 
8 inches wide,  especially  on  sandy  soil  with  a  low  buffer  capacity.  A 
broadcast  application  immediately  before  or  after planting may be the most 
convenient way to apply nitrogen, but it is the least efficient.	 	 
      The rest of the nitrogen should be applied when the corn is 15-30  inches 
high.  This  will usually be 21 to 30 days after plant emergence.  Moisture and 
nutrient deficiencies after this stage of growth will influence the growth  and 
development  of the ears.  When nitrogen is applied with irrigation water,  the 
additional nitrogen may be applied in two or three applications.	 
	 
     The corn plant takes up two-thirds of its  total  nitrogen  from  2  weeks 
before to 2 weeks after tasseling.  Manage nitrogen applications to ensure that 
adequate nitrogen is in the root zone during this period of growth.	 	 

     When  corn  is deficient in nitrogen,  the entire plant is yellowish-green 
and small with spindly stalks.  V-shaped yellowing from the tips of the  leaves 
shows later, beginning with the bottom leaves.	 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LIME RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN                              
-DOC-
                             LIME RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN 
              C. L. Parks and J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomists

         Apply  the  recommended  rate of lime and thoroughly mix with the soil 
before planting.  Lime can be applied any time that is convenient.  If the soil 
test for magnesium is medium or above,  use any source of lime.  Dolomitic lime 
will  supply 80 to 240 pounds of magnesium and 400 to 600 pounds of calcium per 
ton.  Calcitic lime will supply 700 to 800 pounds of calcium and 8-12 pounds of 
magnesium per ton.	 	 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN TISSUE ANALYSIS                               
-DOC-
                              CORN TISSUE ANALYSIS 
                      J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomist

     In addition to soil testing,  plant tissue analysis is a new tool to  help 
manage  and monitor the fertility status of a corn crop.  Throughout growth and 
development,  the corn plant requires certain concentrations  of  nutrients  to 
maintain highest productivity.  One element short of the required concentration 
would  limit and reduce the maximum potential of the corn plant.  Most nutrient 
deficiencies show up as foliar symptoms on the  plant  leaves.  When  diagnosed 
early enough,  corrective measures can be made to eliminate the deficiency.  If 
a nutrient deficiency is suspected or if you want  to  monitor  your  fertility 
program throughout the season, plant tissue analysis is the tool for you.	 

     The  following  analyses  are  now  available at Clemson for nominal fees: 
phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), zinc (Zn),  copper 
(Cu), manganese (Mn), nitrogen (N), sulfur (S) and boron (B). 	 	 
      The  grower  and/or county agent must decide which analyses are needed in 
trouble shooting.  When monitoring your  fertility  program,  have  a  complete 
analysis  run.  The  age  and condition of the plant and the plant part sampled 
are extremely important.  Guidelines and forms are  available  at  your  county 
Extension office.

       TABLE 1. SUFFICIENCY RANGE FOR CORN TISSUE ANALYSIS	
      _____________________________________________________
                       Whole Plant       Leaves Below Whorl	
                        up to 12"       Ear Leaf at Silking	
                       ______________ % ___________________	
	
       Nitrogen (N)        3.50-5.00           2.80-3.20	
       Phosphorus (P)      0.30-0.50           0.25-0.45	
       Potassium (K)       2.40-4.00           1.75-2.25	
       Sulfur (S)          0.20-0.50           0.15-0.50	
       Calcium (Ca)        0.30-0.70           0.25-0.50	
       Magnesium (Mg)      0.15-0.45           0.12-0.30	
          TABLE 1. SUFFICIENCY RANGE FOR CORN TISSUE ANALYSIS
                       _____________ ppm __________________	
	
       Boron (B)              5-25                4-25	
       Zinc (Zn)             20-60               15-60	
       Manganese (Mn)        20-300              15-300	
       Iron (Fe)             50-250              30-200	
       Copper (Cu)            5-20                3-15	 
      _____________________________________________________	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CALCIUM RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN                        
-DOC-
                        CALCIUM RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN
              C. L. Parks and J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomists

     The  required  calcium  is  supplied  with  the  lime.  Deficiency of this 
element will not occur if a favorable pH is maintained.  A soil test  level  of 
300  pounds  per acre or greater will supply adequate calcium for corn.  When a 
young corn plant is deficient in calcium,  the tips of the younger leaves  will 
stick together.	
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POTASSIUM RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN                       
-DOC-
                       POTASSIUM RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN
              C. L. Parks and J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomists

     Soil test  to  determine  the  rate  of  potassium  to  use.  Since  young 
seedlings do not need much potassium, the required rate may be broadcast before 
planting.	 
	 
     Corn  deficient in potassium will have yellowing and dying of leaf margins 
beginning at the tips of the lower leaves.  The ears will not be filled at  the 
tip and the stalk will be weak with ex-cessive lodging.	 	 

     A  100-bushel  corn  yield will remove 24 pounds of K2O in the grain or 20 
pounds of elemental potassium.  If harvested as  silage,  it  will  remove  100 
pounds of K2O or 83 pounds of elemental potassium.	 

                       POTASSIUM RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN
              C. L. Parks and J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomists

     Soil test  to  determine  the  rate  of  potassium  to  use.  Since  young 
seedlings do not need much potassium, the required rate may be broadcast before 
planting.	 
	 
     Corn  deficient in potassium will have yellowing and dying of leaf margins 
beginning at the tips of the lower leaves.  The ears will not be filled at  the 
tip and the stalk will be weak with ex-cessive lodging.	 	 

     A  100-bushel  corn  yield will remove 24 pounds of K2O in the grain or 20 
pounds of elemental potassium.  If harvested as  silage,  it  will  remove  100 
pounds of K2O or 83 pounds of elemental potassium.	 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PHOSPHORUS RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN                      
-DOC-
                      PHOSPHORUS RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORN
              C. L. Parks and J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomists

     Determine  how  much  phosphorus  to  apply  by soil testing.  A broadcast 
application is usually satisfactory.  When the soil test for phosphorus is  low 
and corn is planted in a cold soil,  initial growth will be improved if part of 
the phosphorus is banded 2 inches below and 2 inches to the side of  the  seed.
Since there is very little movement of phosphorus, a surface application should 
be mixed with the soil or it will not be readily available to the plant.	 	 

     Purple  leaves during early growth usually indicate phosphorus deficiency.
It may occur in cold weather where soil phosphorus  is  adequate,  but  because 
root  growth  is  slower,  it  cannot  absorb phosphorus at an adequate rate to 
supply the plant's needs.	 	 

     A 100-bushel corn yield will remove 34 pounds of P2O5 in the grain  or  15 
pounds  of  elemental  phosphorus.  If  harvested as silage,  it will remove 45 
pounds of P205 or 20 pounds of elemental phosphorus.	 	 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN INSECT CONTROL                              
-DOC-
                              CORN INSECT CONTROL
                      D. G. Manley, Extension Entomologist	
 
    As  with  diseases,  many  insect  pests can reduce corn yield and quality.
Insect pests may take a significant portion of the crop each year, because many 
growers are unwilling to spend money for insecticides on  a  crop  with  a  low 
profit  margin.  However,  many  of our corn insects can be controlled by using 
proper cultural control methods.  Consult Circular 601 for more details on corn 
insects.	 
	 
CULTURAL PRACTICES
	 
     The following will help reduce insect problems of corn:	

* USE PROPER RESIDUE AND STALK DESTRUCTION PRACTICES.  Corn stubble provides an 
  ideal site for buildup of over-wintering insect populations, which can create 
  problems for the following year.  Turn under weeds,  crop stubble,  or  cover 
  crops before the last hard freeze of the winter.	 

* TAKE CARE IN SELECTING FIELDS.  Many insect problems may occur by planting in 
  bottom land, pasture land, or other weedy or grassy areas.	 
* PLANT  AS  EARLY  AS PRACTICAL.   Fertilize properly to get the corn off to a 
  quick start.  Many of our most serious corn insects are mid-  to  late-season 
  pests.	 
	
* PLANT RECOMMENDED VARIETIES.  Varieties that  have  long,  tight  husks  help 
  protect the kernels from insect damage.	 
	
* ROTATE CORN WITH BROADLEAF CROPS.  Many insect pests tend  to  build  up  and 
  become more damaging where rotation is not practiced.	 
	
* HARVEST AS SOON AS CORN IS MATURE.  Don't let the crop stay in the field  any 
  longer than necessary.	 
	
NO-TILL OR MINIMUM TILLAGE CORN
	
     More  and  more  growers  are  using  minimum-tillage  practices as energy 
conservation measures.  A trade-off may exist between  increased  savings  from 
reduced  tillage  and  increased  spending  from  greater  insect control being 
required.  Growers should be aware that  many  pests  tend  to  be  of  greater 
importance where minimum tillage is practiced.	 	
CHEMICAL CONTROL	 	 
     The Agricultural Chemical Handbook for South Carolina gives suggestions on 
how to control corn insects.  Be sure to note any precautions and restrictions, 
and always read and follow the pesticide label.	 
	 
     In  areas  where soil insects or billbugs are prevalent,  apply one of the 
recommended granular systemic insecticides at  planting.  These  protect  young 
plants for several weeks and help get the corn off to a good start	 	 

     Determining whether or not to apply a foliar insecticide for pests such as 
corn earworms,  armyworms,  or European corn borers is often difficult.  A rule 
of thumb is to apply an insecticide if the pest is killing 10% of  your  stand.
This  does not mean to treat if you have an infestation of 10%.  Many times you 
may have an insect in every whorl without sustaining much loss in yield.	 

     If  you  decide to apply a foliar spray,  use ground equipment and lots of 
water.  Aerial sprays are usually effective only if  the  larvae  are  exposed, 
feeding  on  the  leaf  surface.  It  is  difficult to control insects that are 
feeding deep in the whorl.  Borers such as  the  European  corn  borer  can  be 
controlled  only  before  they  enter the stalk or ear.  Once inside the plant, 
they cannot be controlled.	 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DEPTH TO PLANT CORN                              
-DOC-
                              DEPTH TO PLANT CORN
                      J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomist	 

     The best depth to plant corn is determined by soil type,  temperature  and 
moisture.  The  range  of suggested depths is from 1-3 inches.  The earlier the 
planting,  the shallower the depth should be because  soil  temperature  rather 
than  soil  moisture  is  usually  the  main  problem  at that time.  For early 
plantings,  1.0-1.5 inch depths can be used on  most  soil  types.  Late-season 
plantings  are  usually  in  drier  and warmer soils.  Depths of 2-3 inches are 
suggested on sandy soils and 2-2.5 inches on heavier soils.	 	
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN POPULATION MANAGEMENT                           
-DOC-
                           CORN POPULATION MANAGEMENT
                      J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomist

     Optimum  stands  can  vary  from  farm to farm and sometimes from field to 
field because of different soil properties, fertility,  hybrids,  weed control, 
and planting methods.  In general, low yields are more common in underpopulated 
than  in  overpopulated  fields.  Whenever  possible,  plant at the populations 
recommended  by  the  companies  for  their  hybrids.  If  such  data  are  not 
available, use the populations suggested in Table 5.	 
                  TABLE 5. SUGGESTED PLANT POPULATION	
       ________________________________________________________
                               ---------Plants per Acre--------	
                                   Grain              Silage     	
                               _____________      _____________
       Early-season hybrids    18,000-22,000      20,000-24,000	
       Midseason hybrids       18,000-22,000      20,000-24,000	
       Full-season hybrids     16,000-20,000      18,000-22,000	
       With irrigation         26,000-29,000      29,000-32,000	
       ________________________________________________________	
	
     Choose  the  higher  rate when planting early in the season and lower rate 
when planting later in the  season.  Always  adjust  the  population  for  100% 
germination.  If  the  labeled  germination is 90%,  increase the population by 
10%.  In addition to germination correction,  overplant  the  100%  germination 
population by an additional 10 to 15% when using minimal-tillage.	 

     Planter speed also has a strong influence on kernel spacing and population 
rate.  With  higher  planting  speeds,  the  incidences  of slippage and uneven 
spacings increase.  Some compensation can be made by changing  planting  plates 
from 16- to 24-celled plates.  Best reults can be obtained,  however, by simply 
slowing down.  Most planters operate best at 3-5 mph.	 	 

     Check the population rate while planting to  ensure  a  good  stand.  When 
checking,  uncover  a  section  of  row  and  measure  the distance between the 
kernels.  Using Table 6,  locate  the  average  distance  between  the  kernels 
measured  and  the column representing the row width.  The figure where the two 
columns cross is the planted  population  per  acre.  Check  each  planter  box 
separately to guarantee an even stand--the more measurements you take, the more 
accurate you will be.	 
    At the end of the season,  if the planted population results in plants with 
average ear weights heavier than 0.5  pound  (15.5%)  moisture),  increase  the 
population  next  year.  If the ear weight is less than 0.5 pound or if several 
barren stalks are present,  decrease the population next year.  Try to maintain 
a  yearly  record of plant populations and average ear weights to find the best 
planting rate.	 
       TABLE 6.  CORN PLANT GUIDE - POPULATION PER ACRE	
_______________________________________________________________
  Average                              Row Width	
  Distance            _________________________________________
  Between	
  Kernels                30"        36"        38"        40"
_______________________________________________________________
   5.0"                 41,820     34,850     33,010     31,360	
   5.5"                 38,020     31,680     30,010     28,510	
   6.0"                 34,850     29,040     27,510     26,140	
   6.5"                 32,170     26,800     25,400     24,130	
   7.0"                 29,870     24,890     23,580     22,400	
   7.5"                 27,880     23,230     22,010     20.910	
   8.0"                 26,140     21,780     20,620     19,600	
   8.5"                 24,600     20,500     19,420     18,450	
   9.0                  23,230     19,360     18,340     17,420	
   9.5"                 22,010     18,340     17,380     16,500	
  10.0"                 20,910     17,420     16,510     15,680	
  10.5"                 19,910     16,590     15,720        -	
  11.0"                 19,010     15,840       -           -	
  11.5"                 18,180       -          -           -	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMBINE ADJUSTMENTS FOR CORN                          
-DOC-
                          COMBINE ADJUSTMENTS FOR CORN
                  F. J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer

     The combine must be adjusted properly to keep losses to a  minimum.  Refer 
to  the  owner's  manual  for  initial setup of the combine.  After the initial 
setup, additional fine tuning may be required in the field to minimize losses.	 
	 
CORN HEADER
	 
     The most critical adjustments in  the  header  are  the  stalk  rolls  and 
snapping  plates.  The  stalk  rolls  should  be  adjusted  to  suit  the stalk 
diameters.  Excessive wear of the stalk rolls will result  in  reduced  machine 
efficiency.  Adjust  the  snapping  plates  so  they will snap the ears without 
shelling.  The snapping plates are usually adjusted at about 1 3/8 inches apart 
at the front and 1 1/2 inches apart at the rear.  The plates  should  be  wider 
at the rear to prevent wedging of stalks and ears.	 	 
CYLINDER AND CONCAVE

     The function of the cylinder and concave is to remove all the kernels from 
the cob without damaging them.  If kernels are damaged, you are overthreshing.	 

     In  general,  higher  speed  and close concave settings increase threshing 
aggressiveness.  Reducing cylinder  speed  and  increasing  concave  clearances 
reduce aggressiveness.	 
	 
     As  a  starting  point,  set the concave so that it is slighty less at the 
front than the diameter of the unthreshed ear.  The rear of the concave  should 
be slightly less than the diameter of the cob.  A good way to check the concave 
setting is to examine the threshed cobs.  There will be an occasional whole cob 
behind the combine (unless the combine has a stalk chopper) when the concave is 
set correctly.	 	 

     The  cylinder  speed  should be between 400 and 900 rpm.  Start at 600 rpm 
and adjust for field conditions.  If kernel damage is excessive,  the  cylinder 
speed is probably too high and should be reduced.
CLEANING SECTION 

     Two components of the cleaning section are the air and the sieve.  The air 
should be adjusted to lift the trash from the sieve and blow it out the rear of 
the combine without blowing out sound kernels. 

     Adjust  the  sieve  openings  only  wide enough to allow the grain to flow 
freely through.  A good procedure for setting the  sieve  is  as  follows:  (1) 
Close  the sieve completely.  (2) Throw a handful of grain onto the sieve.  (3) 
Open the bottom sieve until the grain falls through.  The tailings  section  of 
the sieve should be opened slightly more than the forward section.

     A  properly  adjusted combine will harvest nearly all the crop and deliver 
high-quality, clean corn to the grain tank.  Many more adjustments must be made 
to the combine than those discussed here.  Keep the owner's  manual  handy  and 
refer to it often.	 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMBINE CALIBRATION FOR CORN                          
-DOC-
                          COMBINE CALIBRATION FOR CORN
                  F.J. Wolak, Extension Agricultural Engineer	

     An easy way to increase yields is to improve harvesting  efficiency.  Many 
growers  lose 10% or more of their crop to poor harvesting techniques.  A bonus 
is there for growers willing to take the  extra  time  needed  to  set  up  and 
operate  their  combines properly.  Harvest losses from a properly adjusted and 
operated combine should not exceed 3%.  Anything  greater  represents  needless 
loss.	 
	 
     A  number  of  factors affect harvester efficiency -- combine adjustments, 
field speed, kernel moisture,  and lodging.  To determine harvester efficiency, 
a  grower  must  measure field losses and be able to separate preharvest losses 
from machine losses.  Total loss includes both ear loss and loose kernel  loss.
	 
     Ear  corn  loss  can be estimated by counting the large ears (3/4 lb) from 
1/100 acre (430 sq ft).  Each ear counted represents 1  bushel  per  acre.  For 
example,  for  a 38-inch row spacing,  you need to gather all the ears from two 
rows 69 feet long.  For other row spacing,  refer to Table 13.  Make counts  in 
front  of  and  behind  the combine and subtract to determine machine loss.  If 
machine loss exceeds 1 or 2 bushels, make adjustments to the corn header.	 

    TABLE 13.  ROW LENGTH IN FEET TO EQUAL 430 FT CHECK AREA	
_______________________________________________________________
  Row Width    One     Two      Three    Four     Six     Eight	
   Inches      Row     Rows     Rows     Rows     Rows    Rows	
_______________________________________________________________
     30        174     87       58       43.6     29       22	
     36        145     72.5     48.3     36.2     24	
     38        138     69       46.0     34.5     23	
     40        131     65.5     43.6     32.7	 _______________________________________________________________
MEASURING KERNEL LOSS
	
     Kernel loss may be unnoticed because  it  is  hidden  by  plant  material.
Clear  several  areas  1  ft square behind the combine.  Count the kernels from 
each 1 foot square and average them.  Two kernels per square foot  represent  1 
bushel  per  acre.  In  this  count  include all kernels remaining on partially 
shelled or broken cobs.  If loose kernel loss exceeds 1 or 2 bushels per  acre, 
find  where  the  loss  is  coming  from and make necessary adjustments.  Loose 
kernels may come from improperly adjusted snapping plates and rolls, incomplete 
threshing (kernels attached to  the  cob),  or  inadequate  separation.  Before 
making adjustments to the machine,  be sure that the losses are not coming from 
a hole in the conveying components.	
MOISTURE CONTENT 
	
     Moisture content of the grain has an effect on  combine  efficiency.  Corn 
can be shelled at a moisture content of 30% or less.  However, field losses are 
at a minimum at about 21%.  
	 
GROUND SPEED
	 
     Excessive  losses  can  be  expected  if the combine is operated too fast.
Ground speed should not exceed 3 MPH.  
	 
LODGING
	 
     Harvest should begin as soon as possible to avoid  excessive  lodging.  If 
the crop becomes lodged, field losses will be rather drastic.  

      Make  every  effort  to  harvest  corn before it becomes lodged.  You can 
minimize losses in lodged corn by:  slowing down (2 to 2.5 MPH);  harvesting as 
soon  as  corn moisture reaches 30%;  lowering the header - but don't break off 
stalks; harvesting in the opposite direction of the lodged corn, if possible.
     If lodging is severe,  purchasing a  mechanical  gathering  aid  might  be 
economical.  Contact  your  local  dealer  for  information about these combine 
header attachments.	 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN DISEASE CONTROL                               
-DOC-
                               CORN DISEASE CONTROL
                   Walker Miller, Extension Plant Pathologist

     Corn is subject to a number of diseases that reduce both yield and quality 
of  grain.  Annual  disease  losses  are estimated to be about 5 to 15 percent; 
however,  in certain years,  individual fields may have  much  greater  losses.
Nematodes,  stalk  rots,  viruses,  and moldy grain are among the major disease 
problems of corn in South  Carolina.  To  reduce  or  prevent  disease  losses, 
follow these sound production practices:	 
	 
* PLANT CURRENTLY RECOMMENDED VARIETIES.  These have satisfactory resistance to 
  several common diseases.  Also choose varieties that resist lodging.	 
	
* PLANT  TREATED  SEED  ONLY.  Thiram  (Aarasan)  or  Captan fungicides greatly 
  reduce seed rots and seedling blights.  Most seed is already  treated  before 
  sale.  Check to be certain.	 
	
* TURN   OVERWINTERING  WEEDS  OR  COVER CROPS several weeks before planting to 
  reduce the hazard of seedling rots.	 
* DO NOT EXCEED  THE  RECOMMENDED  NUMBER  OF  PLANTS  PER  ACRE.  This  is  an 
  important factor in reducing stalk rots, lodging, and ear rots.	 
	
* MAINTAIN  CORRECT BALANCE BETWEEN  NITROGEN AND POTASSIUM.  An imbalance with 
  nitrogen exceeding potash can increase stalk lodging.	 
	
* ROTATE WITH OTHER NON-GRASS  CROPS.  Failure  to  rotate  corn  can  lead  to 
  increased   losses  from  several  diseases  including  smuts,   stalk  rots, 
  nematodes, and leaf blights.	 
	
* REDUCE NEMATODE DAMAGE by subsoiling to break hardpans.  This  often  lessens 
  nematode damage to corn,  especially in Coastal Plain soils,  but it will not 
  eliminate the problem.	 
	
     Determining  the kinds and numbers of nematodes by soil assay is extremely 
important in diagnosing and controlling nematode problems.  Proper and accurate 
nematode sampling is essential.  Your county Extension office will tell you how 
to sample accurately for nematodes and  arrange  for  analyzing  the  sampling. 
Keep the results of analysis as field histories to aid in deciding the location 
of corn or other crops as part of your rotation program.	 	 
     The  nematodes  that cause the most damage to corn in the state are sting, 
stubby-root and lesion.  Rootknot, lance, stunt,  dagger,  scuttlenema,  spiral 
and  ring  nematodes  may also cause problems at high population levels.  After 
all management practices have been reevaluated,  a nematicide may be  suggested 
only where sting or high numbers of stubby-root,  lesion, or rootknot nematodes 
are present.	 

* PLANT HYBRIDS WITH VIRUS TOLERANCE in fields where johnsongrass is a problem.
  Control johnsongrass in fields and along edges of fields, since it is a major 
  source of corn viruses.	 
	
* TAKE PRECAUTIONS  TO  REDUCE  MYCOTOXINS.  Mycotoxins  are  toxic  substances 
  produced  by  certian fungi (molds) that may infect corn kernels in the field 
  or in storage.  The most common  mycotoxin  is  aflatoxin,  produced  by  the 
  fungus  Aspergillus  flavus.  These toxins can be very damaging to livestock.
  For details on mycotoxins and their control,  ask your local county Extension 
  agent for Extension Circular 623.  For detailed information on corn diseases, 
  see Circular 601, Diseases and Insects of Corn in South Carolina.	 
            TABLE 11.  SUGGESTED NEMATICIDES FOR CORN. 	
_________________________________________________________________	
Nematicide      Rate (36- in rows)        Comments	
_________________________________________________________________	
Counter 15G         7-14.5 lb/a     Apply Counter on a 7-inch	
                                    band behind planter shoe 	
                                    and in front of press wheel.	 
	
Furadan 15G        11-14.5 lb/a     Apply Furadan in a 7- to 15-	
                                    inch band and Mocap in a 12-	
Mocap 10G          17-22 lb/a       to 15- inch band over the row.	
                                    Incorporate 2-4 inches deep	
Mocap 6 EC        1.1-1.5 qt/a      and plant directly into	
                                    treated soil. DO NOT APPLY	
                                    Mocap directly into seed	
                                    furrow to avoid seedling 	
                                    injury. Follow manufacturer's	
                                    labeled instructions care-	
                                    fully.	 In-furrow methods	
                                    are not recommended. 	
_________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUBSOIL CORN WHERE HARDPANS EXIST                       
-DOC-
                       SUBSOIL CORN WHERE HARDPANS EXIST
                       J. P. Zublean,Extension Agronomist	

     Research over the last  20  years  has  shown  convincing  advantages  for 
subsoiling  corn  wherever soil hardpans exist.  Check the subsoiling depth and 
make sure the hardpan is being completely  penetrated.  Inadequate  penetration 
is a common problem that will not increase yield,  but it will increase loss of 
time, energy, and money.	 

     The following data from the Pee Dee Research and Education Center shows  a 
34%  yield  increase when irrigated corn was subsoiled.  On non-irrigated corn, 
the benefit of subsoiling was greater  and  showed  an  increase  of  41%  over 
nonsubsoiled  plots.  Chisel  plowing  was  found  to  be  less  effective than 
subsoiling in both irrigated and nonirrigated  corn.  However,  chisel  plowing 
did increase yields over the nonsubsoiled-nonchiseled check plot.		
      TABLE 3.  EFFECT OF SUBSOILING AND CHISEL PLOWING ON	
                IRRIGATED AND NONIRRIGATED CORN (1)
   ____________________________________________________________
                                  ----Corn Yields (bu/ac)----	
                                   Irrigated    Non-Irrigated	
   ____________________________________________________________
           Check(2)                    96             51	
           Subsoiling                 129             72	
           Chiseling                  110             66	
   ____________________________________________________________
      (1) G.D. Christenbury and J.B. Davis, Agricultural	
          Engineering Department, Clemson University	
      (2) No subsoiling or chisel plowing	


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DATE OF PLANTING CORN                             
-DOC-
                             DATE OF PLANTING CORN
                      J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomist

     Early corn plantings generally  outyield  late  plantings  throughout  the 
state.  This  is mainly due to reduced pest pressures,  more frequent rainfall, 
and cooler  temperatures  at  pollination.  The  best  guide  for  selecting  a 
planting  date is by using a combination of soil temperature and calendar date.
Local experience is a good source to determine a calendar date.  Some suggested 
dates are listed in Table 4.	 

            TABLE 4. SUGGESTED PLANTING DATES FOR CORN
     _______________________________________________________
                        Early Planting       Late Planting
                        ______________       _____________
      Coastal Plains    March 1-April 1      April 1-April 30
      Piedmont          March 25-April 15    April 15-May 20
     ________________________________________________________

     When planting by temperature,  plant when the 3-day average temperature at 
noon  reaches  55  F  at the 4-inch level.  Temperatures at this level are less 
affected than at a 2-inch level by a single day of  bright  sunshine.  Planting 
with   a   combination   of  these  two  methods  should  guard  against  being 
unrealistically early.	 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO CULTIVATION                              
-DOC-
                              TOBACCO CULTIVATION
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist

    Cultivation is essential to build the row  ridge  to  reduce  drowning;  to 
break up hard,  crusted soil;  and to aid in weed and grass control.  Where the 
soil becomes hard around the newly set transplants,  it remains cold and  roots 
cannot penetrate to pick up nutrients.  Cultivate deeply enough to shatter this 
crust  as  early  as  possible  before  root  growth  extends  out to where the 
cultivator may cut roots.  

     Herbicides are used to  control  certain  weeds  and  grasses  along  with 
cultivation.  Avoid  unnecessary  cultivations  since  they  increase  cost  of 
production, spread the mosaic virus and may cut roots which could contribute to 
soil diseases such as Granville wilt and  black  shank.  An  on-farm  test  was 
conducted  in  1986  with  various  cultivations.  Results  are  shown  in  the 
following table:
                        EFFECT OF NUMBER OF CULTIVATIONS

         Number                          Variety
           of               Coker 48                  Coker 176
       Cultivations   Lb/A    $/A     Q.I.       Lb/A    $/A     Q.I.

             1        1949    3271    49         2227    3704    46
             2        1965    3222    44         2403    4057    47
             3        1752    2850    44         2395    3994    47

     All treatments received a herbicide and the  first  cultivation  was  made 
about  two  weeks after transplanting.  Two cultivations consisted of the early 
cultivation plus the second  one  at  layby  (5-6  weeks).  Three  cultivations 
consisted  of the early and layby plus an extra cultivation in between.  Mosaic 
was applied to every fifth plant of the Coker 48 variety  prior  to  the  first 
cultivation  to measure the spread of the disease by cultivation.  Coker 176 is 
resistant to mosaic.  
     The additional layby cultivation of Coker 176 increased yield and value by 
8 to 10 percent  over  the  single  early  cultivation.  The  additional  third 
cultivation between had no positive influence.  Each cultivation results in $9-
$10 increase in cost per acre.

     Yield  and  value  of  Coker  48 did not increase with the addition of the 
layby  cultivation  and  actually  decreased  by  11  percent  with  the  third 
cultivation.  This decrease can be attributed to the effect of mosaic which was 
spread by the second and third cultivation.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO VARIETY SELECTION                           
-DOC-
                           TOBACCO VARIETY SELECTION
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist 

     The choice of varieties should be based on the needs of each field and the 
total production system being used.  No single variety is best for all growers.
A variety may perform well with one grower but may prove  unsatisfactory  to  a 
neighbor.  The  following  table shows the percent of acres planted to the more 
popular varieties grown in South Carolina. 
               VARIETIES PLANTED AND PERCENT OF ACREAGE, 1978-87

    Variety       '78  '79   '80   '81   '82   '83   '84   '85   '86   '87
    K-326          NA   NA    NA    NA    NA    10    24    29    52    55
    Speight G-28   29   34    19    19    18    12    13    10     7     8
    Coker 48       23   15    29    24    23    15    11    10     7     7
    K-394          NA   NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA     4     8     6
    McNair 944     17   20    15    15    13     9    10     8     8     5
    Speight G-70   NA   NA    17    14    13    14    15     9     4     4
    K-399          NA   NA    NA    NA     6    10     6     4     3     4
    Coker 176      NA   NA    NA    NA    NA     4     3     4     3     2
    Coker 206      NA   NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA     4     1     1
    Speight 108    NA   NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA     1
    K-340          NA   NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA     1
    Coker 319       2    5     3     6     7     4     4     3     2     1
    Coker 347      27   13     9     7     5     3     2     2     2     1
    Coker 371      NA   NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA     1
    McNair 373     NA   NA    NA     *     *     5     4     1     1     1
    K-317          NA   NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA    NA     *     1
     In selecting a variety,  growers are advised to  pay  attention  to  those 
disease  problems  present  in a field.  Study carefully the section on disease 
control in this publication.  Other factors to consider are yield  and  quality 
of the cured leaf.  The relative difference in the quality index may serve as a 
guide.   Ground   suckers  and  handling  characteristics  are  important  con-
siderations also.  When trying a variety for  the  first  time,  plant  only  a 
limited  acreage.  Experience  is still the best indication of the best variety 
suitable for each grower.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NEW TOBACCO VARIETIES FOR 1987                         
-DOC-
                         NEW TOBACCO VARIETIES FOR 1987
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist

     The following varieties have been tested and have met the standards of the 
Flue-Cured Tobacco Variety Evaluation Committee.  

     K-340  was developed by Northrup King from a cross of McNair 
              944 X NC 82.  

     NC 27 NF was developed by N.  C.  State  University  from  a 
              cross of (Coker 319 X NC TG-21) X Coker 319.  It is 
              a  nonflowering variety and should be topped around 
              18 leaves.  

     NC 60 was developed by N.C.  State University from  a  cross 
              of McNair 944 X Speight G-28.  

     Reams  158  was developed by Reams Seed Company from a cross 
              of McNair 944 X Hicks.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MOSAIC RESISTANT TOBACCO VARIETIES                       
-DOC-
                       MOSAIC RESISTANT TOBACCO VARIETIES
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist
 
     Mosaic,  a virus disease,  continues  to  be  a  problem  on  most  farms.
Rotation  and  a  good  sanitation program can help reduce the losses from this 
"silent" disease.  Growers that continually have problems with mosaic and those 
who cannot rotate may find that a  mosaic  resistant  variety  will  help.  Two 
fairly new varieties available that have proven to have good yields and quality 
are Coker 176 and N.C. 567.  

     An  on-farm  test  was  conducted  in  1986  in  Florence,  Clarendon  and 
Williamsburg counties to show the effect of mosaic  and  nitrogen  rates  on  a 
susceptible  variety,  Coker  48,  along with the two resistant varieties.  The 
results are shown in the following table: 
          EFFECT OF MOSAIC AND NITROGEN ON THREE VARIETIES, 1986
        Variety        N Lb/A       Lb/A            $/A        Q.I.

       Coker 48        Rec. -20     2,013          3,308        40
          With         Rec.         1,965          3,222        44
          Mosaic       Rec. +20     2,112          3,538        44
                       Average      2,030          3,356        43
       - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
        Coker 48       Rec. -20     2,429          4,131        46
          Without      Rec.         2,459          4,135        44
          Mosaic       Rec. +20     2,624          4,440        45
                       Average      2,504          4,235        45
       - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
        Coker 176      Rec. -20     2,317          3,888        48
          Mosaic       Rec.         2,403          4,057        47
          Resistant    Rec. +20     2,368          3,876        40
                       Average      2,363          3,940        45
       - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
        NC 567         Rec. -20     2,272          3,872        52
          Mosaic       Rec.         2,413          4,128        48
          Resistant    Rec. +20     2,468          4,167        43
                       Average      2,384          4,056        48
     Mosaic reduced yield and value per acre of Coker 48  by  20  percent.  The 
two  resistant varieties had comparable yield and value at the recommended rate 
of nitrogen but quality was reduced when nitrogen rates were increased.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO PLANT BED MANAGEMENT                          
-DOC-
                          TOBACCO PLANT BED MANAGEMENT
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist

     Producing transplants is an important part of a tobacco production system.
Most  growers find it advantageous to grow their own plants.  When bed failures 
exist or plants are obtained elsewhere,  efforts should be  made  to  get  them 
within  the  state.  Diseases  can  be  introduced  and spread through imported 
plants.  A serious outbreak of a virus disease called vein  banding  caused  by 
potato  virus  Y (PVY) occurred in 1983 and was thought to have been brought in 
on plants from Florida.  This disease was evident again in 1986. 

     Three  big  problems  with  plant  beds  are  poor   drainage,   excessive 
fertilizer, and seeding too early.  The following points are suggested: 

     - Have soil tested and apply lime if suggested.
     - Prepare a good seedbed slightly raised in the center.
     - Apply no more than 50 pounds of 12-6-6 fertilizer per 100 
       square  yards  of  bed  where  plastic  covers  are  used.  
       Incorporate evenly in the top 2-3 inches of soil.  
     - Fumigate with methyl bromide when  the  soil  moisture  is 
       neither  too  wet  nor too dry.  Fumigation is best in the 
       fall when the air temperature is 55oF.  or  higher.  Leave 
       plastic covers on until time for seeding.
     - Punch 1/4-inch holes at least every  1.5-2  inches  before 
       removing cover to seed.  
     - Seed beds 60-70 days ahead of transplanting  date.  Use  1 
       ounce of seed per 600 square yards of bed.  (40 plants per 
       square foot is ideal).  
     - Apply Ridomil @ 1.0 ounce per 150 square  yards  for  blue 
       mold protection.  
     - Apply enide 90W  @  2  ounces  per  100  square  yards  to 
       supplement weed and grass control.  
     - Apply Di-Syston 15G @ 0.6 pound per 100 square yards.
     - Apply a thin layer of  straw  mulch  evenly  over  bed  to 
       support cover.  
     - Irrigate immediately rather than waiting for a rain.  This 
       will  settle  the  seed and incorporate Ridomil and Enide.  
       Cover immediately.  
     - Provide additional drainage between beds  and  around  bed 
       site to remove surface water rapidly.  
     - Remove plastic cover as outside  temperature  reaches  75-
       80oF  to prevent scalding (the temperature should never be 
       allowed to go over 100oF under the  cover)  and  cover  if 
       temperature is expected to go below 45oF.  
     - Provide irrigation as needed and  especially  just  before 
       pulling plants.  
     - Check beds regularly for stand, growth, insects, diseases, 
       or  other  problems.  Plants  that  turn yellow may be the 
       result of (1) nitrogen deficiency,  (2) sulfur deficiency, 
       (3)  heat  injury,  or  (4)  excessive water around roots.  
       Both nitrogen and sulfur are leachable  and  symptoms  are 
       difficult  to  distinguish  without a tissue analysis.  If 
       extra nitrogen is needed,  evenly broadcast 3-5 pounds  of 
       nitrate  of  soda per 100 square yards when the plants are 
       dry  and  irrigate  immediately.   If  sulfur  is  needed, 
       broadcast 5 pounds of Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) or 3 
       pounds of Sul-Po-Mag per 100 square yards.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREVENT PREMATURE TOBACCO FLOWERING                      
-DOC-
                      PREVENT PREMATURE TOBACCO FLOWERING
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist

     Premature flowering was widespread in 1983 and 1984.  Very little occurred 
in  1985  and  1986  partly  because  growers  did not seed beds as early as in 
previous years and because of milder temperatures after transplanting.

     Environmental stress,  especially low temperatures (less than  45oF)  have 
been  shown  to  contribute  to  this problem,  especially after seedlings have 
developed about five leaves.  Avoid seeding beds until the middle  of  January.
If covers are removed because of high temperatures (75-80oF),  be sure they are 
placed back on the beds if night temperatures are expected to  go  below  45oF. 
Some  varieties  such  as  NC  82 are more sensitive to premature flowering and 
should be seeded later than normal.  
     When premature flowering occurs,  the plant should be cut back low  enough 
to  grow  a  good  sucker.  Plowing up the entire crop should be done only as a 
last resort,  especially late in the season.  When less than 10 percent of  the 
plants  are affected,  little yield is lost if nothing is done.  Where a higher 
percent occurs,  it is best to cut the plants back.  Avoid the spread of mosaic 
when cutting plants.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CLIPPING TOBACCO PLANTBEDS                            
-DOC-
                           CLIPPING TOBACCO PLANTBEDS 
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist

     Research in Georgia and North Carolina, as well as demonstrations in South 
Carolina  in  1985  and  1986 have shown the following advantages from clipping 
plants in the bed with a lawn mower:  (1) increased uniformity, (2) more plants 
pulled at one time,  (3) larger stem diameter,  (4) less transplant shock,  and 
(5) easier transplanting.  It is estimated that two  percent  of  growers  used 
this practice in 1986 in South Carolina.

     Another  big  advantage is the delay in growth of larger plants.  Clipping 
removes some of the leaf area and allows sunlight to penetrate the canopy which 
helps smaller plants grow and catch up.  Growers have found it advantageous  to 
delay  the  growth  of  plants  sometimes  when weather conditions prevent land 
preparation coinciding with transplant growth.
     Any high suction lawn mower may be modified to allow increases  in  height 
adjustments  from  4  inches  up  to  10 inches with 1 inch increments.  Larger 
diameter wheels will require less energy to push the mower.  A  bag  attachment 
to  catch  the debris may prevent potential disease problems.  Clip plants when 
the larger ones reach about 4" from the soil to the bed.  Mow beds about  every 
5  days  with  the  lawn  mower  set  slightly above the top of the bed.  Avoid 
cutting below the bed since suckers will form.  

     CAUTION:  The spread of mosaic is a potential problem.  Take care to  wash 
thoroughly  the  underside  of  the  mower with chlorine bleach and a phosphate 
detergent mixed 1:1  with  water  immediately  after  each  clipping.  If  this 
practice  is being used for the first time,  mow only a portion of the beds the 
first year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO FERTILIZATION                             
-DOC-
                             TOBACCO FERTILIZATION
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist

     Adequate  fertilizer  is  important  in  managing  a  tobacco  crop to get 
adequate yields and the highest possible quality at  the  least  cost.  A  soil 
test  is  an excellent way to help determine the amount of nutrients needed for 
each field.  It also helps to keep the pH near the optimum  of  5.6-6.0.  Never 
add  lime  without  a  soil  test.  High  pH  levels may cause certain nutrient 
deficiencies as well as increase disease problems. 

     Most  tobacco  soils  in  South  Carolina  need  60-80  pounds of nitrogen 
(depending on depth to clay), 40 pounds or less of phosphorus (P205),  and 120-
140  pounds  of  potassium  (K20)  per  acre.  Soil-test summaries show that 96 
percent of tobacco fields tested medium to  very  high  in  phosphorus  and  87 
percent  tested  medium  or  high  in potassium.  Using more nutrients than are 
needed is wasteful,  increases  production  costs  and  decreases  profit.  The 
following  chart  shows  the  average  pounds of N-P-K being used on tobacco in 
South Carolina from fertilizer sales figures.  
     POUNDS PER ACRE OF N-P-K USED ON TOBACCO IN SOUTH CAROLINA, 1976-86

            '76   '77   '78   '79   '80   '81   '82   '83   '84   '85   '86

Nitrogen    119   128   118   114   111   103    99   101    94    90    82
Phosphorus  189   192   177   179   158   146   129   119   118    96    82
Potassium   266   259   240   234   232   251   218   218   284   191   173
        PERCENT COMPLETE FERTILIZER SOLD IN SOUTH CAROLINA, 1975-86

     Analysis  '75  '76  '77  '78  '79  '80  '81  '82  '83  '84  '85  '86

     3-9-9      57   35   34   41   46   29   35   31   29   29   26   23
     4-8-12     20   20   17   14   14   16   10    8    6    3    2    2
     5-10-15     8    9   10    8    9   17    6    -    -    5    4    4
     6-12-18    13   31   35   29   26   21   23   16    8    4    1    -
     6-6-18      -    -    -    4    2   13   16   38   52   56   50   68
     8-16-24     2    5    5    2    2    2    5    7    -    -    -    -
     8-8-24      -    -    -    1    1    3    6    -    5    3    6    4

Complete fertilizer is important  because  it  usually  supplies  some  of  all 
nutrients  required  for  good  tobacco growth.  It is also the most expensive.
The complete fertilizer should be used to  supply  the  needed  phosphorus  and 
potassium  and  some  of  the nitrogen.  Growers who get most of their nitrogen 
needs by using a complete fertilizer are wasting  other  nutrients,  increasing 
fertilizer costs, and reducing profits.  
Efficient Use of Fertilizer Nutrients

     Tobacco growers should strive to get the most out of  every  dollar  spent 
for   fertilizer.   This  may  be  accomplished  by  (1)  using  high  analysis 
fertilizer,  (2) using only  enough  complete  fertilizer  to  get  the  needed 
nutrients,  (3)  applying all fertilizer after transplanting,  and (4) applying 
all nutrients early.  

     Most growers are now using  6-6-18,  a  high  analysis  fertilizer.  These 
growers  have recognized the economic advantage of high analysis as well as the 
reduction in labor and transportation costs.  The  following  chart  shows  the 
percent  of each analysis tobacco fertilizer sold when calculated on a nitrogen 
equivalent basis.  
                        ON-FARM FERTILIZER TEST - 1985-86

Fertilizer Program                    Lb/A    $/A     $/Lb  Q.I.  Cost $/A

(1) 6-6-18 (667 lb) + Soda            2,932   5,234   1.79   56     90.11
(2) All 6-6-18 (Same Nitrogen as 1)   2,848   5,078   1.78   56    126.17
(3) All 6-6-18 (Same Cost as 1)       2,719   4,776   1.76   55     90.11
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
(1) 6-6-18 (667 lb) + Soda            2,772   4,831   1.74   49     90.11
(2) All 3-9-9 (Same Nitrogen as 1)    2,638   4,672   1.77   54    214.13
(3) All 3-9-9 (Same Cost as 1)        2,403   4,137   1.72   51     90.11

     The  table above shows a distinct advantage to using only 667 pounds of 6-
6-18 with enough soda  to  increase  the  nitrogen  to  the  recommended  level 
compared with either all 6-6-18 or all 3-9-9.  When all 6-6-18 or 3-9-9 (2) are 
used  to  give equal amounts of nitrogen as (1),  fertilizer costs are greater.
Yields and  value  would  normally  be  expected  to  be  about  equal.  It  is 
understandable  why all 6-6-18 and 3-9-9 with the same cost as (1)  resulted in 
lower yields and value since less total nitrogen was used because the  complete 
fertilizer is more expensive.  
     Another  efficient way of using fertilizer is to delay application until a 
week after transplanting.  Most South Carolina growers use this practice.  This 
decreases  fertilizer  injury,   lessens  the   chance   of   leaching   before 
transplanting,  and  provides  flexibility  for  the  grower  if  replanting is 
necessary. 

     Research has shown that all nutrients should be applied by  the  third  to 
fourth week after transplanting.  Avoid late applications of nitrogen at layby.
The  results  of  on-farm tests during 1985 and 1986,  shown below,  indicate a 
decrease in yield and value when nitrogen is applied too late  in  the  season. 
Both treatments received the same fertilizer program and rates.  

                       ON-FARM FERTILIZER TEST, 1985 - 86

Time of Sidedressing Application         Lb/A      $/A      $/Lb      Q.I.

2 weeks after transplanting              2,852     5,032    1.76       53
At layby                                 2,729     4,796    1.76       53
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NITROGEN MANAGEMENT IN TOBACCO                         
-DOC-
                         NITROGEN MANAGEMENT IN TOBACCO
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist
 
     Nitrogen has more effect on yield and quality  than  any  other  nutrient.
Too  much  nitrogen  will  increase sucker growth,  delay optimum harvest time, 
increase the severity of some diseases,  lower quality,  and even lower  yields 
sometimes.  

     On-farm tests were conducted in 1985 and 1986 with various nitrogen rates.
The  recommended rate of nitrogen used at each of the six locations varied from 
60 to 80 pounds per acre depending on topsoil depth.  All treatments received a 
base rate of 667 pounds per acre of 6-6-18 with enough nitrate of soda added to 
give the various nitrogen levels.  Yield and value per acre,  price per  pound, 
and quality index are shown in the following table.
                         ON-FARM NITROGEN TEST, 1985-86

                Nitrogen       Lb/A      $/A      $/Lb     Q.I.

                Rec - 20 lb    2,659     4,648    1.75     55
                Recommended    2,852     5,032    1.76     53
                Rec + 20 lb    2,875     5,085    1.77     53
                Rec + 40 lb    2,834     5,006    1.77     50

     Yield  and  value  per  acre  did  not  significantly  increase beyond the 
recommended level of nitrogen.  Highest rates resulted in  a  decrease  in  the 
quality index as well as increased production costs.

     Sucker  pressure  increases  with excessive nitrogen.  The following table 
shows the results of an on-farm test on the effect of an additional  20  pounds 
of  nitrogen.  The  number  of  suckers  increased  by 19 percent and the total 
weight increased by 37 percent.
                 EFFECT OF EXCESSIVE NITROGEN ON SUCKER GROWTH

                                                 Sucker Growth
                 Nitrogen Rate                   No/A     Lb/A

                 Recommended                    11,615    2,271
                 Recommended + 20 lb            13,818    3,113
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ADJUST FOR NITROGEN LEACHING IN TOBACCO                    
-DOC-
                    ADJUST FOR NITROGEN LEACHING IN TOBACCO
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist

     Recommended  rates  of  nitrogen range from 60 to 80 pounds per acre under 
most conditions.  When excessive amounts of rainfall occur  from  transplanting 
until  about  the  7th  week,  additional  nitrogen  may  be necessary.  A good 
practice is to have a rain gauge near each field  and  record  rainfall  daily.
Sandy  soils  leach  much  more  readily  than the heavier soils.  DO NOT OVER-
ADJUST!  
                   PERCENT OF NITROGEN (N) TO BE REPLACED 1/

                               Inches of 2/    Weeks after Transplanting
Depth to Clay                  Excess Water    1-3      4-5        6-7
 Less than 12"                         1          0        0          0
(Total N needed = 60 lb)              2         20       10          0
                                      3         30       20          0

12-16"                                1         30       20          0
(Total N needed = 70 lb)              2         45       30         10
                                      3         60       40         15

Over 16"                              1         50       25         15
(Total N needed = 80 lb)              2         75       35         20
                                      3        100       45         25

1/ Apply 1 pound of potassium per pound of nitrogen when adjustments are  made.
2/ Excess water is that amount moving through  the  soil  after  the  soil  has 
   reached  its water-holding capacity.  Subtract the estimated amount of water 
   that runs out of the field from  the  total  rainfall  to  determine  excess 
   water.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO SUCKER CONTROL                             
-DOC-
                             TOBACCO SUCKER CONTROL
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist

     Good sucker control is necessary for high yields,  good  quality,  reduced 
labor,  and  efficient  use  of  harvesting  equipment.  Consider the following 
suggestions:


     1.  Do not apply excessive rates of total nitrogen fertilizer (See p 10).  

     2.  Apply first application of contact material when 50% of  plants  reach 
         the  button  stage.  Delaying  beyond  this  stage  may result in many 
         suckers too large to control adequately.  

     3.  Use enough contact material to get the  job  done  thoroughly.  Use  2 
         gallons with 48 gallons of water, and apply 50 gallons of this mix per 
         acre.  It is important to have the right concentration of chemical and 
         water  to ensure proper control of the suckers.  At each leaf axil are 
         three potential suckers.  When  the  right  concentration  is  applied 
         properly, all three suckers in most leaf axils are controlled.  
         CAUTION:  Contacts  (fatty  alcohols) should have continuous agitation 
         when mixed with water.  If the solution is not agitated for  a  length 
         of  time,  it  should  not  be used since damage to tobacco may occur.
         Avoid using cold water.  

     4.  Top all plants that have begun to flower.  Do not wait until all  have 
         flowered.  Top  low enough to ensure normal size leaf.  Suckers in the 
         very top of the plant are hardest to control with contacts, especially 
         when the top leaves are not big enough to catch enough spray  material 
         and  funnel  it to the sucker.  Topping low enough to get 18-22 leaves 
         will elimate many hard-to-kill suckers and provide  equal  yields  and 
         quality with fewer leaves to handle.  

     5.  Apply  second  application of a contact 3-5 days later as described in 
         No. 3 above.  

     6.  Top remaining plants as soon as practical. 
     7.  Apply a systemic material about a week later after last application of 
         contact.  Apply in the morning after dew has dried.  Tobacco should be 
         in a growing stage and not wilted.  During dry weather,  an irrigation 
         1-2   days   before   application   of   systemics  will  improve  its 
         effectiveness.  Avoid excessive use of systemics and apply at least  7 
         days before harvest to reduce residues.  
 New Sucker Control Materials

     Prime  +  introduced  in  1982 is a systemic but is referred to as a local 
systemic or contact systemic.  It is effective only if it contacts the  sucker. 
Prime  +  must  be  applied  precisely  using  the  same  procedure as applying 
contacts.  Most suckers missed are in the top of the plant.  Better results are 
usually obtained if plants are topped around 18-22  leaves.  Suckers  that  are 
missed  with  Prime  + will continue to grow.  Remove these suckers by hand 1-2 
weeks after application.  

     Some  growers  applied Prime + by using a hand-held drop line for each row 
of tobacco.  This method gave much better control of suckers  than  the  normal 
machine  sprayer.  Results of Extension on-farm,  sucker-control tests indicate 
the hand application requires 12 times more labor since a person  is  required.
for each row.  CAUTION:  Prime + is a dinitroaniline common to that  family  of 
herbicides.  Some stunting of small grain and corn have been observed following 
the  use  of  Prime +.  Tobacco following Prime + treated tobacco has also been 
reported to have suffered early season stunting when dinitroaniline  herbicides 
were  used.  Follow  label  directions  carefully,  especially when applying by 
hand.

     Bud Nip,  also introduced in 1982,  has had very limited use and  was  not 
available  during  1986.  Other  new  materials tested included Off Shoot M and 
Fair 2; both are MH formulations.  
                         ON-FARM SUCKER CONTROL TEST, 1986

                              Suckers Pulled by Hand            Labor
                       Yield            No./A                 Hours/Acre
Treatments 1/          Lb/A   2 weeks     4 weeks   Total    2 wk 4 wk Tot

OST/OST/RMH            2,370      820      3,744     4,564    3.5  4.8  8.3
OST/OST/RMH/RMH 2/     2,390      760      1,204     1,964    3.4  2.7  6.1
OST/OST/RMH/BN         2,414      520      1,808     2,328    3.1  3.1  5.2
OST/PRIME +            2,504    1,572      2,084     3,656    4.0  3.3  7.3
OST/PRIME + /3 RMH /4  2,422      984      1,456     2,440    3.5  2.8  6.3
OST/OST/OFM            2,428    1,212      3,692     4,904    3.7  4.6  8.3
F-85/F-85/FAIR-2       2,276    1,224      3,496     4,720    3.5  5.0  8.5
F-85/F-85/FST-7        2,424      608      3,392     4,000    3.0  4.2  7.2
SP/SP/SS               2,364    1,228      3,316     4,544    3.6  4.2  7.8
1/ Chemicals and rates are as follows unless otherwise noted:

     Off Shoot T @ 2.0 gal                  Fair-85 @ 2.0 gal
     Royal MH-30 @ 1.5 gal                  Fair-2 @ 1.125 gal
     Bud Nip @ 1.0 gal                      FST-7 @ 3.0 gal
     Prime + @ 1.0 gal                      Sucker Plucker @ 2.0 gal
  2/ Royal M-H30 @ 0.5 gal                  Off Shoot M @ 1.5 gal
  3/ Prime + @ .75 gal                      Sucker Stuff @ 1.0 gal
  4/ Royal MH-30 @ 1.0 gal
                         SUCKER CONTROL CHEMICALS GUIDE
                                          Pressure             Amt. of Water
Type of Material                 Rate/A     PSI     Nozzles*       Gal/A

CONTACTS (C8-C10)
   (Off-Shoot T, Fair 85                            2-TG3
   Sucker Plucker, etc.)         2.0 gal     20     and               50
                                                    1-TG5
SYSTEMICS (MH)
   1.5 lb/gal (Royal MH-30
     Fair Plus, etc.)            1.5 gal     40     3-TX18         30-50
  2.25 lb/gal (Sucker Stuff)     1.0 gal     40     3-TX18         30-50
  2.0 lb/gal (Fair-2)            1.125 gal   40     3-TX18         30-50
COMBINATION (C10 + MH)                              2-TG3
     FST-7                       3.0 gal     20     and               50
NEW SYSTEMIC MATERIALS (Use on trial basis)	
    Bud Nip                      1.0 lb/gal  30     3-TX18            40
                                                    2-TG3
    Prime Plus                   1.0 lb/gal  20     and               50
                                                    1-TG5
*May use comparable size nozzles.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO WEED CONTROL                              
-DOC-
                              TOBACCO WEED CONTROL
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist

                           Max. Broadcast
Preplant Incorporated         Rate/A                    Remarks
       Devrinol 50W           2.0 lb         Apply and incorporate to a depth
       Paarlan EC             1.0 qt         of 2-3 inches.  If disc is used,
       Prowl                  1.5 pt         cut to a depth of 4-6 inches and
       Tillam 6 E             0.55 gal       cross disc to improve 
                                             incorporation.
After Transplanting                          Band over the top after trans- 
       Devrinol 50 W          2.0 lb         planting.  Use irrigation or
       Enide 90W              4.4 lb         shallow cultivation if no rain
                                             occurs within a few days.
At Layby
       Devrinol 50W           2.0 lb         Band spray in row middles
       Enide 90W              4.4 lb         immediately after last 
       Prowl               .0-1.5 pt         cultivation.  Avoid contact
       Surflan 4AS or      .0-2.0 pt         with leaf surface.
               75W        0.67-1.33 lb
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOBACCO ROOT AND STALK DESTRUCTION                        
-DOC-
                       TOBACCO ROOT AND STALK DESTRUCTION 
                      Ben U.Kittrell, Extension Agronomist

     Early destruction of  roots  and  stalks  is  essential  to  help 
control  nine  major  pests  of  tobacco - budworms,  hornworms,  flea 
beetles, nematodes, brown spot, mosaic, PVY,  grasses,  and weeds.  By 
destroying  the stalks and roots early,  these pests can be prohibited 
from further buildup to plague the next year's crop.  A  thorough  job 
of destruction immediately after final harvest will help this old crop 
residue  to decay much quicker while the temperature is higher and the 
stalks are succulent.  

     The following steps are essential:

     (1)  Cut stalks.  A rotary mower is best since it will cut and 
          shred  the stalks into smaller pieces.  A heavy disc will 
          suffice,  but a thorough job means more than just leaning 
          the stalks over.  

     (2)  Dislodge the Root System.  If not killed, the root system 
          will  continue  to  grow.   Suckers  will   develop   and 
          nematodes  will  continue  to multiply.  Plow out or disc 
          the roots to expose them to the hot drying sun.  A  heavy 
          disc  may  be  sufficient to do steps one and two if done 
          properly.  

     (3)  Bury All Crop Residue.  About  2-3  weeks  after step  2, 
          another  discing  will  help  to  kill any remaining live 
          roots and cover  the  old  crop  residue  with  soil  for 
          thorough decomposition.  
 
     For  this  program  to  be  most  effective,  all  tobacco  fields  in the 
neighborhood must be properly disced.  Each grower should remind  neighbors  if 
stalks are still standing.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HARVEST RIPE TOBACCO                              
-DOC-
                              HARVEST RIPE TOBACCO
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist

    Ripe tobacco with medium body and an orange color is what most  buyers  say 
they  prefer.  Tobacco  must  be  mature  before  it  can ripen.  Ripeness is a 
naturally occurring process and should not be confused with the use of coloring 
agents.

     Nitrogen  affects  the  ripening  process  more  than  any  other  factor.
Ripeness  does  not take place until the soil nitrogen has been depleted.  Late 
or excessive applications of nitrogen will delay  this  process.  Growers  have 
allowed the tobacco to stay in the field longer in recent years; however, there 
was still a lot of immature and unripe tobacco on the market.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHEMICAL COLORING AGENTS IN TOBACCO                      
-DOC-
                      CHEMICAL COLORING AGENTS IN TOBACCO
                     Ben U. Kittrell, Extension Agronomist

     Two  materials  available  to  aid  in  coloring  tobacco are ETHY-GEN and 
Ethrel.  It is estimated that 16 percent was treated with Ethrel and 10 percent 
with ETHY-GEN in 1986.  Results of growers using these  materials  indicate  an 
inconsistent performance.  Do not expect these materials to solve problems such 
as overfertilization and late-maturing tobacco.
                           COLORING AGENTS AVAILABLE

Chemical        Rate                        Remarks

Ethrel 2-4 qt/A             Use    when    remaining    leaves     are 
                            physiologically  mature.  Test treat a few 
                            plants ahead to determine if chemical will 
                            cause yellowing.  Mix in 40-60  gal  water 
                            and  apply  at  40-60  psi pressure so all 
                            leaves are covered.  Harvest 24 hr  later.  
                            Excessive delay in harvesting could result 
                            in loss of yield and quality and may cause 
                            leaf  drop.  Treat only the amount planned 
                            for harvest at that time.  
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
ETHY-GEN      3-6 qt/barn   Use Tobacco Coloring  Generator  to  apply 
                            into  air  flow  of  curing  barn.  Follow 
                            manufacturer's   suggestions.    Harvested 
                            tobacco  should be physiologically mature.  
                            Use the higher rate for greener tobacco.  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ROTATE CROPS                                   
-DOC-
                                  ROTATE CROPS 
                      J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomist	

     Continued planting  of  corn  to  the  same  soil  site  year  after  year 
(monoculture)  often  encourages the buildup of pests and reduces yields.  When 
corn is rotated,  higher yields are generally achieved  even  when  fertilizer, 
water,  pest control, and soil tilth are optimum.  In a recent national survey, 
corn yield increases due to rotation ranged  from  6  to  30  bu/ac.  The  same 
survey  reported  yields  to  decline  after  2  to  5 years of continuous corn 
production.	 	
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOIL SELECTION FOR CORN                            
-DOC-
                            SOIL SELECTION FOR CORN
                      J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomist

     Good  yields require good soil.  Profitable corn yields cannot be produced 
on soils with marginal or poor production potentials.  Table 2 shows a list  of 
soil  types  best suited for corn production.  For more specific information on 
soil types and their yield potentials, contact your local SCS office.	 
        TABLE 2.  SOUTH CAROLINA SOILS WITH CORN YIELD 	
                  CAPABILITIES OF 100+ BU/AC	
   
        Altavista     Deloss        Kalmia         Persanti	
        Argent        Dothan        Lenoir         Ponzer	
        Aynor         Dunbar        Lumbee         Portsmouth	
        Bayboro       Duplin        Lynchburg      Rains	
        Bethera       Emporia       Marlboro       Red Bay	
        Bladen        Eulonia       Meggett        Shellbluff	
        Brookman      Eunola        Nemours        Stono	
        Byars         Faceville     Noboco         Suffolk	
        Cahaba        Goldsboro     Norfolk        Tomotley	
        Cape Fear     Grady         Ochlockonee    Varina	
        Caroline      Greenville    Ogeechee       Wadmalaw	
        Cartecay      Grifton       Okeetee        Wahee	
        Chewacla      Hobcaw        Olanta         Wickham	
        Clarendon     Hornsville    Onslow         Yauhannah	
        Congaree      Hyde          Orangeburg     Yemassee	
        Coxville      Izagora       Pantego        Yonges	
        Craven        Johns         Paxville	
  ______________________________________________________________	
  B.N. Stuckey, Jr., Assistant State Soil Scientist, SCS

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN ROW WIDTH                                  
-DOC-
                                 CORN ROW WIDTH 
                      J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomist	 

    General trends are toward narrower corn  row  widths.  In  South  Carolina, 
yield  increases of 5-10% have resulted when reducing row widths from 40 and 38 
inches to 30 inches.  Narrower rows maximize land use,  capture  sunlight  more 
effectively, and use soil moisture better, as long as the soil is moist.	 	 

     The  decision  to  change to narrower rows,  however,  is not an easy one.
Economically,  the increased cost from additional planter units and a  narrower 
corn  header  may  not  warrant  the  change.   Additional  time  and  economic 
considerations include: compatibility with other crop equipment, such as cotton 
pickers,  high-boy sprayers and row crop headers and alteration capabilities of 
existing equipment such as cultivators and sprayers.	 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MAGNESIUM  RECOMMENDATIONS  FOR CORN 	                     
-DOC-
                     MAGNESIUM  RECOMMENDATIONS  FOR CORN 	
             C.  L. Parks and J. P. Zublena, Extension Agronomists 

     A good soil test program and using the right source of  lime  will  supply 
adequate magnesium for corn.  If the soil test level for magnesium is 32 pounds 
per acre or greater,  the corn plant will have adequate magnesium.  Corn plants 
deficient in magnesium will be chlorotic between the veins (a  streaked  leaf).
Compact  layers  or  hardpans  and a high rate of potassium or calcium may also 
cause magnesium deficiencies in corn.	 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CURRENT SWINE TEST STATION DATA                       
-DOC-
                       CURRENT SWINE TEST STATION DATA
                 William G. Brown,  Extension Animal Scientist

This is the advance information prior to your receiving the sale catalog.  The 
following pens and pigs have completed the 28th test qualified for the Sale.  
Please note the group sale date and the date of the latest up-date.  You may 
check this page  for up-dates from now to sale.  September farrowed boars have 
started test. This group will be sold on March 16, 1988.  Sale dates for the 
future will be quarterly; March, June, September and December.  This should 
help producers locate superior tested boars periodically as needed.  

      * *  Sale Date  12/16/87  1:00 PM             Update 12/04/87  * *
12/04/87
                         S. C. SWINE EVALUATION CENTER
                                   28th TEST
                          Final - - - Off Test Report
                       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 EAR     BIRTH  #          ON      Off               Adj.   Adj.          Final
NOTCH    DATE  AL BVSPI   TEST    Test    ADG D230     BF    LEA    F/G   Index
 -----   ----- -- -----   ------ -----   ---- ----   ----   ----   ----   -----
** PEN #  4
*  DUROC   RAYMOND CAMPBELL, EASTOVER        SIRE: SUPER COMMANDER 2-2
  1-8    06/06 12   0.0   08/13  10/19   2.57  131   0.70   4.97   2.27   142.0

** PEN #  2
*  YORK    RAYMOND CAMPBELL, EASTOVER        SIRE: 2SV4 HICKORY 5-7
  2-8    06/06 11   0.0   08/10  10/12   2.54  128   0.78   4.61   2.27   134.6
  2-3    06/06 11   0.0   08/10  10/12   2.54  130   0.85   4.63   2.27   129.7
  2-5    06/06 11   0.0   08/10  10/12   2.41  129   0.81   4.61   2.27   124.7

** PEN # 15
*  DUROC   FOX TINDAL, PINEWOOD        SIRE: DW IMPULSE -7
 11-4    06/04 12   0.0   08/24  10/15   2.92  135   0.95   4.99   2.41   135.0
 11-1    06/04 12   0.0   08/24  10/15   2.92  133   1.23   5.72   2.41   115.4

** PEN # 24
*  YORK    ROSS J. DYE, BLACKSTOCK      SIRE: BIGUN 17-9
 11-3    06/30 11 107.4   09/10  11/23   2.35  138   0.73   4.94   2.29   125.2
 11-1    06/30 11 107.4   09/10  11/23   2.30  143   0.70   5.07   2.29   124.3

** PEN #  1
*  YORK    T.A. COVINGTON, NORWAY          SIRE: GDMC5 SUMO 21-3
  6-1    06/17 10 100.7   08/10  10/08   2.78  110   0.96   5.09   2.38   128.1
  6-2    06/17 10 100.7   08/10  10/08   2.54  117   0.92   5.37   2.38   116.5

** PEN # 16
*  DUROC   FOX TINDAL, PINEWOOD        SIRE: DW IMPULSE -7
 11-2    06/04 12   0.0   08/24  10/19   2.75  139   0.93   5.20   2.44   123.9
 11-7    06/04 12   0.0   08/24  10/19   2.71  137   0.95   5.15   2.44   120.1

** PEN # 11
*  YORK     MCCLAM FARM, LYNCHBURG       SIRE: WGW 5T RUFF 54-8
 10-4    06/20 12   0.0   08/27  11/09   2.38  135   0.61   4.94   2.29   132.6
 10-6    06/20 12   0.0   08/27  11/09   2.08  144   0.77   5.49   2.29   106.2

** PEN #  8
*  YORK    JOE M. RAST, ELLOREE         SIRE: JRA5 LAVERNE 9-2
  6-6    06/10 15 105.1   08/24  11/04   2.31  142   0.79   4.54   2.28   119.3
  6-1    06/10 15 105.1   08/24  11/04   2.25  147   0.77   5.46   2.28   117.1

** PEN #  5
*  DUROC   RAYMOND CAMPBELL, EASTOVER        SIRE: SU5 BADGER 1-2
  4-3    06/08 10   0.0   08/17  10/19   2.41  133   0.74   4.86   2.42   118.3
  2-7    06/08 12   0.0   08/17  10/19   2.38  136   0.83   4.94   2.42   110.2

** PEN # 14
*  YORK     BLACK CREST FARM, SUMTER          SIRE: WGW5 C & G 74-4
 27-3    06/08 12 106.2   08/24  11/02   2.40  142   0.77   5.22   2.42   115.6
 28-1    06/09  5  96.5   08/24  11/02   2.14  149   0.77   4.94   2.42   100.0

** PEN # 19
*  YORK     HAMBONE FARM, REEVESVILLE     SIRE: WGW6 WORKOUT
  7-12   06/21 12 104.0   09/03  11/09   2.45  142   0.78   4.86   2.50   111.9
  6-6    06/19  7 101.9   09/03  11/09   2.27  146   0.73   4.68   2.50   104.6
  6-5    06/19  7 101.9   09/03  11/09   2.42  141   0.90   5.09   2.50   101.7

** PEN #  9
*  YORK     BLACK CREST FARM, SUMTER          SIRE: WLM6 POCALLA 7-1
 24-6    06/07  7  99.4   08/17  10/21   2.46  138   0.82   5.25   2.48   111.2
 20-2    06/04  9  98.9   08/17  10/21   2.40  139   0.83   5.20   2.48   106.9
 16-3    06/01  8  98.9   08/17  10/21   2.37  143   0.94   4.97   2.48    97.4

** PEN #  6
*  YORK     MCCLAM FARM, LYNCHBURG       SIRE: WGW6 DYNAMO 11-3
  8-1    06/19 10   0.0   08/17  10/26   2.49  124   0.81   4.97   2.65   101.0

** PEN # 25
*  HAMP    JOE M. RAST, ELLOREE         SIRE: AI LAST LAUGH 30-3
 19-2    06/20 11  99.8   09/10  11/23   2.19  154   0.65   5.63   2.54   102.4
 19-6    06/20 11  99.8   09/10  11/23   2.14  154   0.69   5.66   2.54    96.6

** PEN #  3
*  YORK    RAYMOND CAMPBELL, EASTOVER        SIRE: WS5 TOTO 16-7
  1-6    06/06 10   0.0   08/10  10/19   2.54  126   0.97   4.86   2.52   102.5
  3-1    06/07 12   0.0   08/10  10/19   2.11  140   0.73   4.78   2.52    93.5

** PEN # 20
*  DUROC   CHARLES SHULER & SON, HOLLY HILL      SIRE: CS GERRY 6-6
  5-7    06/17 10   0.0   09/07  11/11   2.49  144   0.97   4.61   2.54    98.0
  5-6    06/17 10   0.0   09/07  11/11   2.49  144   1.00   4.61   2.54    95.9

** PEN # 17
*  LANDRACE HAMBONE FARM, REEVESVILLE     SIRE: HBF6 EQUALIZER
 96-8    06/15 10 103.0   08/31  11/11   2.36  146   0.78   4.86   2.64    96.0

** PEN # 23
*  YORK    ROSS J. DYE, BLACKSTOCK      SIRE: RAM
  9-3    06/17 10  99.2   08/31  11/16   2.05  152   0.73   5.20   2.46    94.4
  9-2    06/17 10  99.2   08/31  11/16   1.95  154   0.65   4.99   2.46    94.0

** PEN #  7
*  YORK     MCCLAM FARM, LYNCHBURG       SIRE: WGW6 DYNAMO 11-3
  7-4    06/19  8   0.0   08/20  11/02   2.46  127   0.90   5.27   2.47   106.4
  7-2    06/19  8   0.0   08/20  11/02   2.08  139   0.83   5.20   2.47    88.5
  7-5    06/19  8   0.0   08/20  11/02   2.08  137   0.85   5.66   2.47    87.1

** PEN # 13
*  DUROC   JOE M. RAST, ELLOREE         SIRE: HP LINE DRIVE
 26-1    06/26  6 100.1   08/31  11/16   2.13  139   0.72   5.29   2.51    96.2
 26-3    06/26  6 100.1   08/31  11/16   2.00  147   0.69   4.78   2.51    90.5

** PEN # 18
*  LANDRACE HAMBONE FARM, REEVESVILLE     SIRE: C6 MASTERPIECE
101-5    06/23 14 100.8   09/03  11/16   2.35  140   0.99   5.49   2.60    83.7
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Average on 42 Sale Boars:   2.38  138   0.82   5.06   2.44   
             Average on 66 Test Boars:   2.27  142   0.83   5.13   2.47

                             --- End of Data ---   12/04/87
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ON-FARM-TEST REPORTS                              
-DOC-
                              ON-FARM-TEST REPORTS
                  William G. Brown, Extension Animal Scientist

The following Purebred Swine breeders are participating  in the official
Clemson On-The-Farm test program and have had boars weighed and scanned during
the six-week period beginning (06/23/87).  The data for boars indexing
over 99.9 are listed for each breeder, with sale availability following.

PIG  #    Brd  SIRE   SEX   Date Bn.   Wt.    D230      ABF      LEA     INDEX
=======   ===  ====   ===   ========   ===    ====     ====     ====     =====
STRICKLAND FARM, NICHOLS       392-3212
                          Boars Weighed 9/24/87
 90-5     L    3      B     04/15/87   224     165     0.62     5.79     132.4
 90-10    L    3      B     04/15/87   224     165     0.77     5.28     120.4
  6-2     L    3      B     04/15/87   224     165     0.77     5.59     120.4
  6-5     L    3      B     04/15/87   220     168     0.84     5.13     109.4
  6-6     L    3      B     04/15/87   210     174     0.78     5.48     103.4
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PIG  #    Brd  SIRE   SEX   Date Bn.   Wt.    D230      ABF      LEA     INDEX
=======   ===  ====   ===   ========   ===    ====     ====     ====     =====
JOE RAST, ELLOREE        826-6188
                          Boars Weighed 09/10/87
 35-1     D    21     B     02/25/87   255     181     0.71     4.70     139.8
 41-1     D    21     B     03/17/87   206     193     0.74     5.01     115.8
 40-5     D    21     B     03/16/87   214     188     0.87     5.22     114.4
 29-1     H    10     B     02/17/87   248     193     0.64     5.25     123.8
 39-7     Y    14     B     03/10/87   234     182     0.64     4.65     143.6
 39-1     Y    14     B     03/10/87   225     187     0.82     5.07     120.2
 39-8     Y    14     B     03/10/87   220     191     0.74     4.83     119.4
 36-3     Y    14     B     03/01/87   216     203     0.64     4.88     105.8
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
HAMBONE FARM,  CHARLES REEVES, REEVESVILLE     563-4092
                          BOARS Weighed 9/10/87
 51-8     Y    10     B     03/25/87   256     156     0.80     4.78     118.0
 51-6     Y    10     B     03/25/87   242     163     0.76     4.85     108.6
 51-4     Y    10     B     03/25/87   240     164     0.76     4.87     106.8
 52-6     Y    10     B     03/25/87   252     158     0.90     4.92     106.4
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PIG  #    Brd  SIRE   SEX   Date Bn.   Wt.    D230      ABF      LEA     INDEX
=======   ===  ====   ===   ========   ===    ====     ====     ====     =====
BLACK CREST FARM,  J. LUCAS,  SUMTER            481-2011
                          Boars Weighed 08/31/87
 28-2     D    23     B     03/15/87   234     167     0.83     5.15     126.1
 28-4     D    23     B     03/15/87   214     179     0.65     4.90     118.9
 28-3     D    23     B     03/15/87   220     175     0.95     5.13     102.1
 94-3     Y    13     B     03/05/87   250     168     0.82     5.23     125.1
104-2     Y    6      B     03/12/87   228     173     0.71     5.33     124.9
103-2     Y    13     B     03/11/87   236     170     0.78     4.43     124.7
101-3     Y    12     B     03/10/87   234     172     0.78     4.95     121.1
115-2     Y    12     B     03/15/87   220     175     0.74     5.34     118.9
 96-4     Y    13     B     03/06/87   240     172     0.81     5.07     118.7
105-1     Y    9      B     03/13/87   228     172     0.86     5.63     114.7
104-1     Y    6      B     03/12/87   214     182     0.65     5.32     113.5
 94-1     Y    13     B     03/05/87   244     171     0.94     5.02     110.1
101-2     Y    12     B     03/10/87   230     174     0.90     5.20     107.9
111-2     Y    11     B     03/14/87   210     183     0.72     4.85     106.1
107-1     Y    12     B     03/14/87   212     181     0.77     5.46     105.7
114-1     Y    12     B     03/15/87   214     179     0.87     5.74     101.3
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PIG  #    Brd  SIRE   SEX   Date Bn.   Wt.    D230      ABF      LEA     INDEX
=======   ===  ====   ===   ========   ===    ====     ====     ====     =====
BOJA FARM   R.E. WILLIAMSON, NORWAY    263-4934
                          BOARS Weighed 7/8/87
  8-1     Y    11     B     01/25/87   250     154     0.55     4.94     161.5
  8-3     Y    11     B     01/25/87   250     154     1.00     4.66     125.5
  4-1     Y    11     B     01/20/87   258     155     1.06     4.38     118.9
  5-1     Y    12     B     01/22/87   240     162     0.95     4.78     115.1
  4-2     Y    11     B     01/20/87   234     167     0.88     4.35     111.7
  8-2     Y    11     B     01/25/87   226     166     0.92     4.95     110.3
  6-2     Y    12     B     01/24/87   226     167     1.02     5.25     100.5
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
McClam Farm, Lynchburg      437-2256
                          Boars Weighed   06/23/87
 12-3     Y    3      B     02/25/87   220     122     0.74     4.83     133.7
  5-1     Y    3      B     01/22/87   280     132     0.64     4.34     123.7
  7-12    Y    3      B     01/24/87   256     139     0.62     5.15     112.7
  7-10    Y    3      B     01/24/87   260     137     0.70     5.10     109.9
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PIG  #    Brd  SIRE   SEX   Date Bn.   Wt.    D230      ABF      LEA     INDEX
=======   ===  ====   ===   ========   ===    ====     ====     ====     =====
ROSS J. DYE,   BLACKSTOCK          482-3759
                          Boars Weighed  06/03/87
  2-11    H    33     B     12/24/86   232     175     0.59     5.47     114.5
  5-6     S    26     B     01/01/87   232     167     0.69     4.97     120.9
  5-5     S    26     B     01/01/87   230     168     0.70     4.70     118.3
 12-11    Y    30     B     01/03/87   264     150     0.81     4.78     141.9
 12-10    Y    30     B     01/03/87   264     150     0.86     5.24     137.9
 11-9     Y    35     B     01/02/87   262     151     0.86     5.08     136.1
 10-9     Y    29     B     12/29/86   262     155     0.82     5.54     132.1
 16-9     Y    35     B     01/06/87   240     158     0.86     5.07     123.5
 10-12    Y    29     B     12/29/86   236     168     0.68     5.12     119.9
 11-11    Y    35     B     01/02/87   234     165     0.78     5.54     117.3
 13-5     Y    35     B     01/03/87   230     166     0.80     5.20     113.9
 16-10    Y    35     B     01/06/87   218     170     0.74     5.37     111.5
 10-11    Y    29     B     12/29/86   250     160     1.00     5.42     108.7
 11-12    Y    35     B     01/02/87   220     173     0.74     5.75     106.1
 15-10    Y    29     B     01/05/87   216     172     0.80     5.92     103.1
 16-7     Y    35     B     01/06/87   220     169     0.89     5.13     101.3
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

                           End of Data




-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NUTRIENT REQUIREMENTS OF SWINE--GESTATION,REPLACEMENT GILTS,BOARS	       
-DOC-
       NUTRIENT REQUIREMENTS OF SWINE--GESTATION,REPLACEMENT GILTS,BOARS	
                     John E. Albrecht and William G. Brown	
                          Extension Animal Scientists

   Item                Amoumt           Item                   Amount  	
Crude protein,%       14-16           Lysine,%                    0.55	
Methabolize energy,                   Salt,%                      0.50	
kcal/lb.               1450           Calcium,%                   0.90	
Ca-P ratio                1.14        Phosphorus,%                0.80	
Zinc,ppm                100           Iron,ppm                  100	
Copper,ppm                5           Manganese,ppm              10	
Iodine,ppm                0.14        Selenium,ppm                0.1	
Vitamin A,IU/lb.      2,500           Vitamin D,IU/lb.          400	
Vitamin E,IU/lb.          7.5         Vitamin K,IU/lb.            1.7	
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CURRENT SWINE EVENTS                           
-DOC-
                           CURRENT SWINE EVENTS
                 Carl W. Ackerman, Extention Swine Specialist
 
     Date                 Sale                      Location
  ----------   --------------------------   ------------------------------
  June 17      SC Swine Evaluation Boor     Sandhill Experiment Station
                 Test Sale
  July 12      Ross Dye's Yorkshire,        Farm near Blackstock
                 Hampshire, Spot Sale
END
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FLIMS, VIDEO TAPES AND SLIDE SETS                      
-DOC-
 
                      FLIMS, VIDEO TAPES AND SLIDE SETS
                 Carl W. Ackerman, Extension Swine Specialist
 
FLIMS
Atrophic Rhinitis--How to Identify--15 minutes- Color	
Video Tapes
Atropic Rhinitis--15 mintues	
Early Weaned Swine Nursey Building--28 mintues	
 
 
Slide Sets with Script	
Breeds of Swine and the Development of Today Meat Type Hog--30 
slides	
Fitting and Showing Your 4-H pig--25 slides	
Four-H Swine Nutrition - Learning About Feed--12 slides	
Managing Baby Pigs--24 slides	
Value of Various Feed Grains for Swine - Balancing Ration for 
Protein Content--15 slides	
Video Tapes	
~*UUUUUUUUUUUUUUU/]W
~*UUUUUUUUUUUUUUU/]Wapes	
  Tape 1
   How toBPN.X.ViJ""Z%=oMg+
  Tape 2	
   How to Place a Class--14.5 minutes	
  Tape 3	
   Test Yourself--24.5 minutes	
  Tape 4	
   Abbeville State Champisonship Team  Practice Workout--40 
   minutes	
 
 
END
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SWINE ANNOUNCEMENTS                            
-DOC-
                            SWINE ANNOUNCEMENTS
                 Carl W. Ackerman, Extension Swine Specialist
 
      Date                                Item
   ----------     ---------------------------------------------------------
   June 22        Entry deadline for performance tested barrow show - SC
                    State Fair
 
   July 12        Weigh week for State Fair barrows
END
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FOOD PLOT PLANTINGS	                              
-DOC-
                              FOOD PLOT PLANTINGS	
                     Frederick A. Busch, Wildlife Biologist
	
Many of the agricultural crops that are  commonly  planted  for  wildlife  food 
plots  should  be  planted  soon.  Some  of  the  different  plantings used for 
wildlife are listed below,  along with approximate planting  dates,  techniques 
and rates.	 
	
Use  of  these  crops in conjunction with forest management operations is espe-
cially beneficial to wildlife.  After a timber harvest and before  reestablish-
ing  the  new forest is the best time to plan and install food plots.  Consider 
using a variety of these crops on log decks,  haul-out roads  and  other  areas 
that  have  been  subjected to high degrees of soil disturbance.  Not only will 
you be providing much needed wildlife foods,  but the fast-growing agricultural 
crops will help prevent excessive soil erosion.	 
	
Although these crop plants are listed singly,  you may want  to  plant  several 
different  kinds  on each food plot.  If you can plant only one kind,  however, 
try to stagger planting dates.  Either technique - mixing varieties or stagger-
ing - will provide a longer period of food availability.  On forest  land,  in-
stall  1  acre  of  food plot for every 25 to 35 acres of forest.  Consult your 
county agent for the best variety of each plant for your area and soil type.  
    	
                 PLANTING                       PLANTING            WILDLIFE	
CROP               DATE          RATE           TECHNIQUE              USE
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------	
Corn            March-April     8 lbs        Drill in rows         Fall-winter	
                                per acre	
 
Soybeans        May-July 15     85 lbs       Drill or broadcast    Fall-winter	
                                per acre
	
Grain sorghum   July 15-30      6-8 lbs      Drill in rows         Fall-winter	
                                per acre
	
Cowpeas         May-June        2-3 pecks    Broadcast             Late summer	
                                per acre                           Early fall	
	
Chufa           May 15-July     30 lbs       Broadcast             Fall-winter	
                                per acre	
 
Browntop        April 15 -      20-30 lbs    Broadcast             Summer-fall	
 millet         August 15       per acre
 
Annual game     May-June        25 lbs       Broadcast             Fall-winter	
 bird mix                       per acre	
	
Common Florida  May-June 1      10 lbs       Broadcast             Late fall-	
 beggarweed                     per acre                           winter	
	
Japanese        July 1          20 lbs       Broadcast             Late fall-	
 millet         August 1        per acre                           winter	
 (waterfowl)	
                *Keep water off until plants are 10 inches high
	
Proso millet    April 1         15-20 lbs    Drill in rows         Fall	
                July 1          per acre     or broadcast          Winter	
	
Sunflower       June            5 lbs        Broadcast             Fall-winter	
                                per acre	
______________________________________________________________________________
	
SOURCES:  South Carolina Wildlife & Marine Resources Department	
          Clemson University Agricultural Extension Service	
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Channel Catfish Fingerling Production	                     
-DOC-
                     Channel Catfish Fingerling Production	
             Dr. Tom Schwedler, Extension Aquaculture Specialist
	
     Catfish fingerling production systems range from simple, open-pond rearing 
systems to complex systems where eggs are incubated in troughs.  The complexity 
of the operation depends on its size and the producer's objectives.  	
     Channel catfish fingerlings are raised for commercial food fish 
production, recreational fee-fishing, and home use.  Some producers sell 
fingerlings to other producers, while some limit their operations to supplying 
their own needs.  A careful study of the market should be conducted before 
investing in catfish fingerling production to avoid losing money because of 
poor demand.	 
     Whatever the size or purpose of the operation, certain basic requirements 
must be met to insure success.  Water must be of good quality and the soil and 
topography must be suitable for pond construction.  Check with your county 
agent and Soil Conservation Service for assistance.  	
     You must have healthy, disease-free catfish brood stock, suitable ponds 
for holding brood stock, and in most cases, nursery ponds for rearing finger
lings.  Commercial fingerling producers usually have separate hatching troughs 
or tanks where eggs are incubated and the newly hatched fish, called "fry," are 
trained to feed before they are stocked into nursery ponds.  You need tanks 
supplied with a dependable water supply and aeration if fingerlings are to be 
held or graded before shipment.  You also need seines of suitable mesh size, 
length, and depth and a fish transporter to harvest and transport fry and 
fingerlings.  	
     Catfish fingerling production requires more technical skill and management 
than producing food-size fish from fingerlings.  The fingerling producer must 
manage the reproductive behavior of the catfish brood stock to meet his need 
and then use specific skills to hatch, rear, harvest, inventory, and market the 
fingerlings.  The objective is to produce a given number of fingerlings of a 
certain size by a specified time.  This requires careful planning, a good 
understanding of the catfish reproductive process, along with an understanding 
of the requirements of eggs and young fish.  Most successful operations start 
small and expand as the operator gains experience.	 
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
For further information, contact your county agent, or 	
Dept. of Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
Clemson University	
Clemson, SC 29634-0362	
656-3117	
   



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Determination of Catfish Stocking Rates	                    
-DOC-
                    Determination of Catfish Stocking Rates	
             Dr. Tom Schwedler, Extension Aquaculture Specialist
	
     The rate that channel catfish can be stocked in commercial ponds depends 
on three basic factors:  maximum safe feeding rate, size of fish desired at 
harvest and maximum pounds of fish which can be fed at the maximum feeding 
rate.  These factors must be considered carefully to insure that fish in the 
pond grow and convert efficiently and do so in a timely manner.  Culture 
systems can vary from farm to farm and according to the size of the fish.	
     The first task in determining optimal stocking rate is to determine the 
maximum feeding rate that your system will tolerate.  Experience is the best 
way to establish this; however, no system should exceed 100 lbs of feed/-
acre/day*.  Over 100 lbs/acre/day under current management practices causes 
water quality to deteriorate thus limits production.	 
     The second task is to determine the size of fish desired at harvest.  
Marketing considerations must be evaluated whether fingerlings or food fish 
are raised.  The effect of size desired at harvest also has a practical effect 
on the stocking rate in a pond.  For example, if fingerlings of 3" average 
length are desired, a much higher stocking rate can be used than if you desire 
6" average size.	
     From the maximum feeding rate allowable and average size desired at 
harvest, you can estimate maximum poundage/acre at harvest.  The average size 
at harvest will determine approximately what percentage of their body weight 
the fish will consume.  With this percentage, the maximum weight of fish that 
can be fed effectively by the maximum feeding rate you establish can be 
computed.  The object is to have the fish reach this maximum poundage as close 
to harvest time as possible.  If your fish are not of an acceptable average 
size when the maximum feeding rate is achieved, growth, conversion, and 
profits will decrease.  Overstocked ponds with limits on feed give each fish a 
smaller percentage of feed than is optimal for their growth.	 
	
	
	
	
*Only experienced managers with extensive aeration equipment should attemp to 
 feed 100 lbs/acre/day.	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
For further information, or for a list of pertinent publications, contact your 
county agent, or 	
	
Dept. of Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
Clemson University	
Clemson, SC 29634-0362	
656-3117	  


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Harvesting Catfish from Production Ponds	                    
-DOC-
                    Harvesting Catfish from Production Ponds	
              Dr. Tom Schwedler, Extension Aquaculture Specialist
	
     Although modern equipment such as tractors, seine reels, etc., are used in 
removing catfish from a pond, harvesting is done basically as it has been since 
the dawn of recorded history, by seine.  Each farmer must decide whether to do 
his own harvesting or whether to rely on custom harvesters.  There are 
advantages and disadvantages for each choice.  The actual equipment and labor 
required for doing your own harvesting depends on the size and shape of your 
ponds and the size of the farm.	
	
     For more complete information on harvesting catfish, or for a list of 
pertinent literature, contact your county agent, or,	
Dept. of Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife 	
Clemson University	
Clemson, SC 29634-0362	
803-656-3117	
   



































-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Construction of Fish Ponds	                           
-DOC-
                           Construction of Fish Ponds	
                Tom Schwedler, Extension Aquaculture Specialist
	
     Before building fish ponds, it is necessary to determine how may acres are 
to be put into production.  The next consideration is how to break the block of 
land up into separate ponds.  Remember, the larger the pond the more difficult 
it will be to manage, and the smaller the pond, the more costly construction 
will be.  Commercial producers have settled on a pond size of about 17.5 water 
acres on 20 acres of land.	
     After deciding how to lay out the ponds, it is necessary to consider the 
soil characteristics.  The land has to be cored to determine if any sand is 
present.  If sand is present, the seepage will raise pumping costs considerably 
and in extreme cases make fish farming unprofitable.  The Soil Conservation 
Service should be contacted for assistance.	
     Next, consider the lay of the land in relationship to flood waters.  If 
flood waters come up over the levees, the fish will swim out, and the levees 
may actually wash out.  Also make sure levees are high enough to prevent water 
from coming over the top.  Again, if the levees need to be too high, 
construction costs may prohibit a profitable operation.	
	
	
	
	
     After considering the above problems, the lines can be run on the 
prospective ponds.  Make sure the pond bottom is to grade, having a gentle 
slope to the drain.  This will ensure complete draining and will help prevent 
fish from escaping while seining. 	
     Even though it's your land, there are laws that can stop pond construction 
on "wetland" classified land.  Make sure prior to moving any dirt that you are 
not constructing ponds on designated wetlands.	
	
	
	
For further information, contact:	
	
Soil Conservation Service	
1835 Assembly St., Room 950	
Columbia, SC 29201	
803-765-5681,	
	
or your local District Conservation Office.	



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Water Quality in Catfish Ponds	                         
-DOC-
                         Water Quality in Catfish Ponds	
                 Tom Schwedler, Extension Aquaculture Specialist
 
	
     Maintaining good water quality in production ponds is absolutely 
essential.  Failure to do so will result, at best, in poor growth and high feed 
conversions or, at worst, a total loss of all fish in the pond.  Remember that 
the fish in the pond are living in their own wastes.  Thus, the weight of fish 
that can be produced in a pond is limited by the ability of that pond to 
provide adequate oxygen, not only to keep the fish alive but to enable them to 
metabolize their food and grow, and to break down nitrogenous wastes.	
     To achieve production rates in excess of 2,500 pounds per acre per year, 
the farmer must be able to insure that good water quality is maintained 24 
hours a day, 365 days a year.	
     Water is the universal solvent; is essential for all life; does not exist 
in pure state under natural conditions; and is relatively stable both 
chemically and physically.  A fish farmer should be aware of the physical and 
chemical properties of water.	
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LEASING HUNTING RIGHTS                            
-DOC-
                            LEASING HUNTING RIGHTS
                    Frederick A. Busch, Wildlife Biologist
 
Incentives to maintain and enhance wildlife  habitat  on  private  forest  and 
agricultural lands have,  in the past,  been limited to intrinsic values.  The 
potential contribution of wildlife to landowner income has often been neglect-
ed by land managers,  because under American custom and law,  our wildlife  is 
not  traded  openly  as  are  other products of the land.  Wildlife is said to 
belong to society, held in trust by the state and reduced to individual owner-
ship  only  through legal hunting or fishing.  This creates a certain dilemma; 
how can we adequately compensate the landowner  for  his  wildlife  management 
efforts if he cannot legally sell the wildlife that he produces?  Where is the 
incentive  to  intensively manage private properties for wildlife?  Addressing 
this problem, Aldo Leopold once wrote that with rare exceptions, the landowner 
is not yet practicing wildlife management and there are  three  ways  for  the 
state to induce him to do so: 
 
     1.  Buy him out and become the landowner; 	
     2.  Compensate  him  directly or indirectly for producing a game crop and 
         for the privilege of harvesting it; 	
     3.  Cede him the title to the game so that he will own it and can buy and 
         sell it just as he owns, buys and sells his poultry.  
 
The first way is feasible on inexpensive lands but prohibitive elsewhere.  The 
third way is the English system and is incompatible  with  American  tradition 
and thought.  The second is feasible anywhere and is essentially the basis for 
selling  hunting  rights.  This enables the landowner to market a recreational 
experience related to wildlife rather than the animal itself.  
 
The practice of selling hunting rights was started in this country  along  the 
east  coast where waterfowl leases were common in the 1870's.  Hunt leases for 
deer and other big game first proliferated just after WWI when wealthy  indus-
trialists  found  that  hunting  deer  in  Texas  was  superior to hunting the 
depleted northern herds.  Texas ranchers were only too happy to  collect  sub-
stantial  fees  for  the  right  to  hunt on their property.  As sport hunting 
became more popular,  so did the practice of granting hunting rights based  on 
payment of lease fees.  
 
Big and small game lease hunting spread east and north out of Texas  over  the 
next  50  years  but  was  relatively uncommon in the Southeast until about 15 
years ago.  Even then,  average lease prices were  so  low  that  engaging  in 
leasing  was  not  particularly worthwhile for most landowners from the stand-
point of generating significant income.  In the mid-1970's,  however,  the sun 
belt  was  "discovered",  and  the  Southeast  experienced  a  rather dramatic 
increase in human population.  As our population grew,  so did the demand  for 
places  to  hunt;  competition  between sportsmen for hunting rights forced an 
increase in fees and made  leasing  more  attractive  to  landowners.  Average 
lease fees are not yet,  however, high enough to justify converting completely 
to wildlife management;  rather,  most landowners interested in wildlife  must 
make  some considerations for habitat while managing their lands for something 
else, usually forest and agricultural products.  
 
LEASE FEES 
 
The  fees  that a landowner is reasonably able to charge for hunting rights is 
dependent largely upon location.  Average lease fees are higher  in  the  deep 
south  states than in the Southeast,  probably due to an older tradition and a 
better-developed market for hunt leases in the states closer to  Texas  (Table 
1).  In  South  Carolina,  average  lease fees are higher in the Piedmont than 
either the Coastal Plain or the Mountains (Table  2);  within  each  of  these 
regions,  lease  fees  are  most often tied to land management.  Sportsmen are 
more willing to pay premium lease fees for lands in good  condition  than  for 
lands managed with considerations for the needs of wildlife.  
	
	
 
Table 1.  Average hunt lease fees on timber  company  lands  in  the  southern 
states (1984).  	
          _______________________________________________________
          
                                           Average hunt lease fee
               State                        $ per acre per year
          _______________________________________________________
         
          Alabama                                  1.47
          Arkansas                                 1.39
          Florida                                  1.40
          Georgia                                  1.90
          Louisiana                                1.45
          Mississippi                              1.56
          North Carolina                           1.30
          South Carolina                           1.34
          Tennessee                                1.43
          Virginia                                 1.08
         _______________________________________________________  
 
	
	
Table 2.  South Carolina regional average hunt lease fees (1984).
          _______________________________________________________
          	
                                           Average hunt lease fee
               Region                       $ per acre per year
          _______________________________________________________
     
          Coastal Plain                            1.44
          Piedmont                                 1.93
          Mountains (estimated)                    1.00
          _______________________________________________________
 
FEE HUNTING SYSTEMS
 
There  are  several  systems  that  landowners  might choose to market hunting 
rights; the most popular by far is leasing.  Others include: 
 
Permits -  Some  landowners  sell  individually-issued  permits,  usually  for 
hunting  all  game  on  designated  tracts  for  a year.  Permitting gives the 
landowner control over numbers  of  hunters  and  game  harvests,  but  admin-
istrative costs are high and revenues are uncertain; 
	
Cooperative  Wildlife  Management  Areas  (WMA)  - South Carolina Wildlife and 
Marine  Resources  Department  (SCW&MRD)  operates  a  public-access  wildlife 
management  area  program  in  cooperation with private and governmental land-
owners.  Participating landowners are paid a  yearly  per-acre  lease  fee  by 
funds  generated  through  the  sale  of  WMA  access  permits.  In  the past, 
participating landowners have received fees well below  the  market  value  of 
private hunt leases, causing substantial acreage withdrawals from the program.  
Recent  increases  in the price of WMA permits have enabled SCW&MRD to upgrade 
lease payments and become more competitive with private hunt clubs; 
 
Shooting Preserves - Shooting preserves are becoming quite  popular  in  South 
Carolina,  with  over  50  licensed  preserves in operation in 1986.  Preserve 
operators enjoy an expanded hunting season for such species as quail,  turkey, 
pheasant,  and  partridge.  Fees for hunting guests normally range from $50 to 
over $250 per day, depending upon services offered and may be as high as $1500 
per day for an old-time plantation style quail hunt.  Corporations  often  use 
these  preserve  businesses to entertain clients and employees.  Preserves do, 
however,  require intensive management programs,  substantial capital  invest-
ments and often interfere with agricultural and timber production; 
	
	
	
Commercial  Memberships - A relatively rare marketing system is the commercial 
or equity membership.  Under this system,  members buy shares in a  hunt  club 
that  is  administered  and  managed by the landowner.  Memberships in some of 
these clubs can be as high as $100,000 and include a deeded share of the land.  
 
Leasing is the most commonly employed fee hunt  marketing  system  because  it 
provides  a  reliable  annual income with almost no investment and very little 
management effort.  Most landowners engaged in marketing wildlife  view  lease 
hunting  as supplemental income and are unwilling to commit much time or money 
to the enterprise.  
 
In theory,  a hunt lease is simply an agreement  between  a  landowner  and  a 
hunter  or  group  of  hunters that protects certain agreed-upon privileges of 
each party.  In practice,  conflicts often arise due  to  the  incomplete  and 
casual  nature  of  many  lease  agreements.  The  lease should,  for example, 
address subjects pertaining to incidental uses of the  leased  lands  such  as 
camping,  fishing  and  wet  weather  road  use.  It should guarantee that the 
lessee has the exclusive right to use the described property for  the  purpose 
of hunting and it should describe exactly what penalties are to be suffered if 
the  lease  is  broken by either party.  Some essential elements of a properly 
prepared hunting lease are: 
 
     1.  Description of the leased property;
     2.  Duration of the lease agreement and the fee to be paid;
     3.  Lessee and lessor obligations regarding fires, trespassers and damage 
         to the leased property; 
     4.  Held-harmless clauses; 	
     5.  Lease agreement termination procedures; 
 
An example of what to look for in a hunt lease is available from  your  county 
Extension office.  
 
ENHANCING LEASE VALUES
 
"Lands  in  good  condition" can mean many things and is not limited simply to 
good habitat.  The more discriminating lessors - those willing to pay  premium 
lease  fees  - will look at many attributes of land management before deciding 
to lease any particular property.  Some of those attributes may be: 
 
     1.  Landowner policy regarding size and configuration of  timber  harvest 
         cuts; 
     2.  Importance  of  timber  stand  age  class diversity is recognized and 
         planned for to be sure that forage and mast resources  are  sustained 
         over time; 
     3.  Streamside  or  riparian   management   zones   are   observed;   
     4.  Intermediate  thinnings  and  prescribed fire are utilized to enhance 
         wildlife habitat; 
     5.  The tract offered for lease is large enough to maintain a  reasonable 
         hunter density; 
     6.  Food  plots  or  permanent  openings established on the property.  If 
         not, can they be and at what rate: 
     7.  Shooting can be conducted safely on the property;
     8.  Noise from nearby industries or  highways  does  not  compromise  the 
         quality of hunting on the property; 	
     9.  Access  can  be  effectively  controlled  by  posting,   gating  and 
         patrolling; 
    10.  The landowner will negotiate a multi-year lease or agree to grant the 
         lessor the right of first refusal in the future; 
    11.  The annual lease rate increase is reasonably and  predictably  deter-
         mined  (will  the  increase be tied to the consumer price index,  for 
         example); 
    12.  Landowner policy regarding tree stands reasonably protects trees  and 
         recognizes the value of tree stands in harvesting deer; 
    13.  Will the lessee be required to carry liability insurance (if so, what 
         limits); 
 
Many  clubs  actively seek a long-term (more than one year) lease agreement in 
order to guarantee themselves a high-quality place  to  hunt  in  the  future.  
Generally,  a club holding a multi-year lease will keep the leased property in 
good condition,  will contribute time and money to property  improvements  and 
will  protect  the  wildlife  and  land  resources  from undue exploitation or 
damage.  
 
CONSTRAINTS ON LEASING 
 
Leasing of hunting rights is not  an  enterprise  suited  to  all  landowners.  
There  are  some  problems  associated  with leasing that should be considered 
before a landowner enters the hunt lease market.  
 
Credit - Commercial lending institutions are often unwilling to  make  capital 
investment   loans   for  wildlife-based  enterprises.   As  the  methods  for 
appraising wildlife assets improve and the profitability of lease  hunting  is 
more firmly established, wildlife investment loan policies should come more in 
line with that of other agricultural practices.  
 
Taxes  -  Hunt  lease  income  is  taxed  as ordinary income.  Reinvestment of 
profits into production of wildlife is not encouraged through a favorable  tax 
treatment.  
 
Marketing  -  There  exists no orderly market for hunt leases.  This creates a 
difficulty for both producers (landowners) and consumers (hunters) as  neither 
has  a formal means for contacting the other.  Competition for specific leases 
is limited and prices are not controlled entirely by the laws  of  supply  and 
demand.  This  results  in landowners with similar properties in similar areas 
often receiving widely varying lease fees.  
 
Liability  -  The  threat  of  lawsuit for an injury incurred by a lessee is a 
consideration that forces may  landowners  to  abandon  the  idea  of  leasing 
hunting  rights.  Liability  depends  in  part  on  whether  the  visitor is a 
trespasser, licensee or invitee.  In general,  the landowner is not liable for 
harm  to  trespassers caused by his failure to put the land in reasonably safe 
condition for their reception or to conduct activities so as not  to  endanger 
them.  However,  if  the  landowner  discovers  or can foresee the presence of 
trespassers,  especially children,  he is expected to exercise reasonable care 
for  their safety.  A licensee is a person who is privileged to enter upon the 
land by the consent of  the  landowner.  The  landowner  is  expected  to  use 
reasonable  care  to discover the licensee,  avoid injury to him in conducting 
activities on the land and to warn him of any dangerous conditions  which  are 
known  to  the  landowner.  The invitee is a person who is invited to enter or 
remain on land for the purposes of the landowner.  The landowner  is  required 
to exercise reasonable care to warn the invitee,  or to make the premises safe 
for him as to dangerous conditions that he is aware of or should be aware  of.  
Most hunt lessees would be classified as invitees.  
 
The landowner involved in fee or lease hunting should have liability insurance 
which not only provides financial protection but can provide legal representa-
tion as well.  Such insurance protection is,  however,  expensive and hard  to 
find.  Insurance  agents  carrying  "specialty" or odd policies may be able to 
sell such insurance sponsored by the National Rifle  Association  (NRA).  This 
policy  is  reasonably  priced and the landowner can be named as an additional 
insured on the contract for 10% of  the  policy  premium.  The  NRA  sponsored 
insurance does,  however, require that the club be affiliated with the NRA and 
that 50% of the club members belong to the NRA.  A hunting  club  organization 
kit, including information on insurance, may be obtained by writing: 
 
          Hunter  Services  Division,  National  Rifle  Association 
          1600 Rhode Island Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 
 
BENEFITS OF LEASING 
 
There are several reasons why so many landowners are engaged in  the  business 
of leasing hunting rights despite these rather serious constraints.  
 
Income  -  Revenues generated by leasing hunting rights can make a significant 
contribution to the profit  potential  of  a  farm  or  forest  enterprise.  A 
reasonable  $1.50  per  acre per year hunt lease can add as much as 10% to the 
Net Present Value (NPV) of a typical forest management investment.  Also, many 
forest and agricultural landowners depend upon the reliable annual  cash  flow 
provided by hunt lease income.  
	
Access  Control - Gaining control of visitor access is often more important to 
landowners than is the income generated through leasing.  Landowners are some-
times reluctant to allow free and  unrestricted  access  to  their  properties 
because of damage caused by unknown and irresponsible visitors.  Entering into 
a properly prepared lease agreement often eliminates this problem.  
 
South Carolina's forest and agricultural landowners are generating substantial 
revenues  by  marketing  incidentally  produced  wildlife through hunt leases.  
Despite the fact that no orderly market  exists,  current  demand  for  leases 
seems to be higher than supply and lease fees will continue to rise,  probably 
at rates greater than the annual inflation  rate  as  landowners  become  more 
aware of wildlife-related recreation opportunities and values.  
 
CONCLUSION
 
For hunters,  leasing is far more economical than purchasing land for hunting.  
As a matter of practice,  good stewardship demonstrated by  gentlemen  hunters 
and  concern  for  hunters'  needs  as  demonstrated by landowners is vital to 
securing long-term  relationships  between  these  two  groups.  Hunters  cite 
safety,  good  quality hunting and fellowship as important reasons for leasing 
while landowners need access control and the additional income.  
 
	
	
	
The preceding article appears in the  Proceedings  of  the  1st  Annual  South 
Carolina White-tailed Deer Management Workshop.  Copies of the Proceedings are 
available  from The Wildlife Society,  South Carolina Chapter,  for $5.00 each 
including postage.  For more information, please contact:	
	
                    Frederick A. Busch, Wildlife Biologist	
                    Dept. Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife	
                    308 Long Hall	
                    Clemson University	
                    Clemson, SC  29634-0362	
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
What To Do If Your Fish Get Sick	                       
-DOC-
                       What To Do If Your Fish Get Sick	
              Tom Schwedler, Extension Aquaculture Specialist
	
     Early detection of fish health problems is the key to effective control 
of the problem.  The first task is to recognize the indications that your fish 
are sick.	 
     Clinical signs of sickness (symptoms) may occur long before fish start 
dying and may give you time to solve the problem before it gets too serious.  
A very important sign that fish are sick is a decrease in feeding activity 
(not attributed to cool water, cold fronts, high pressure systems, etc.).  A 
second very significant behavioral sign is seeing fish in unusual settings.  A 
good example is seeing channel catfish around the bank or on the surface.  
Normally catfish are seen only when you stock, use floating feed, or harvest; 
seeing them by the bank is unusual behavior.  The third and possibly most 
dramatic behavioral sign is the fish start dying.	 
     When one of the above behavioral signs show up in your fish, it's 
important to try to find the cause of the problem.  At that time, getting an 
accurate diagnosis of the disease is critical.	 
     The first challenge you will encounter is how to get a good sample of 
fish and water to send to the fish disease laboratory for diagnosis.  The 
water sample collection is easy and straightforward.  A clean plastic or glass 
jar about 1 pint to 1 quart can be filled with water about 1 foot below the 
surface.  Fill jar completely full and cap while under water.	 
     Catching a fish sample is more difficult because you need to catch a fish 
that is sick, about to die, or recently dead.  If a poor fish sample is sent 
to the disease laboratory, an accurate diagnoses cannot be made.	 
	
         POOR SAMPLE                           PROBLEM	
	
   1.  Hook and line caught                (probably healthy)	
   2.  Feeding fish                        (probably healthy)	
   3.  Seined fish                         (potentially healthy)	
   4.  Dead fish                           (may be dead too long to tell why 
                                            it died)	
          GOOD SAMPLE 	
	
   1.  Sick fish dipnet                    (probably good sample)	
   2.  Sick fish hand                      (good sample)	
   3.  Fresh dead*                         (good sample)	
	
   *Fresh dead fish have good shiny appearance, good clear eye color and 
    bright red gills.	 
	
     Once sick fish (about 3 is a good number) are captured and a water sample 
is collected, arrangements for shipment should be made.  Shipping fish alive 
is best for diagnostic purposes but is often not possible.  If the fish are 
likley to die enroute, it is best not to attempt live shipment.  The next best 
and most often used procedure is to ship fish on ice.  The fish are placed in 
a plastic bag with about an ounce of water and sealed.  The bag is placed on 
ice in an ice chest along with the water sample and shipped to the diagnostic 
laboratory.  Samples prepared for iced shipment will be excellent for 
diagnosis for about 24 hours.	
     Samples can also be preserved in 10% formaldehyde for shipment, but the 
laboratory should be contacted prior to preservation since the types of 
diagnostic procedures are limited when samples are preserved.	
     Once the samples are collected and packaged for shipment, the disease lab 
(803-656-2810) should be contacted to arrange receipt of the samples.  It's 
important the fish are received within 24 hours.  Also of significance is that 
you provide as much information as prossible on the submission form; this will 
be very helpful in establishing the cause of the fish disease problem.	
     The Aquaculture, Fisheries & Wildlife Cooperative (Clemson University and 
South Carolina Wildlife and Marine Resources Department cooperating) has a 
fish disease diagnostic laboratory located at Clemson.  For assistance contact 
your county agent, SCW&MRD district fisheries biologist, or T. E. Schwedler 
(803-656-2810).	
     It is very important that you get a diagnosis prior to treating, since 
treatments often cause new problems associated with side effects.	









-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Overview of Fish Diseases	                           
-DOC-
                           Overview of Fish Diseases	
                Tom Schwedler, Extension Aquaculture Specialist
	
     Disease can be defined in many terms, but perhaps the easiest is that 
disease is any process that can cause a fish discomfort and can lead to death.  
Diseases can be broken down into two broad categories, infectious and non-
infectious.	 
	
Infectious - (diseases caused by a living organism):	
	
   -PARASITE.  An organism that lives in or on another at the expense of its 
host is a parasite.  There are many different kinds of parasites, both 
internal and external, ranging from the very small (8/25,000 inch = 8 microns) 
to some that are 5-6 inches long.  Most problems are caused by protozoans 
(single-celled animals) that live on the gills.	 
	
   -BACTERIA.  There are many different kinds that can cause serious losses of 
catfish.  Most are internal, although a few occur on the skin and gills.  
Specialized laboratory techniques are necessary for their isolation and 
identification.  Most are about 3/25,000 inch long (3 microns), though some 
may be 10-12 microns long.	 
	
   -FUNGI.  Fungi are a specific group of plants that lack chlorophyll and are 
mainly secondary invaders of fish.  Usually they can grow only on dead organic 
matter.  Therefore, fungal infections indicate there is something else wrong 
with the fish.	 
	
   -VIRUSES.  Submicroscopic particles that live within the cells of living 
organisms are called viruses.  Sophisticated laboratory techniques are 
required for diagnosis.  Their location makes them almost impossible to treat 
with chemicals or drugs.	 
	
Non-infectious - (diseases caused by other than living organisms)	
	
   -NUTRITIONAL.  Caused by too much or too little food or nutrients.	 
	
   -ENVIRONMENTAL.  Oxygen depletions, gas bubble disease, toxic algae, brown 
blood disease, ammonia, etc.  The environment changes so rapidly or to such a 
degree that the fish are not able to adjust to the changes.	 
	
   -PHYSIOLOGICAL.  A change in blood pH of 0.2 pH point due to overexertion, 
feeding in relation to time of harvest, or a malfunction of the organ systems.	 
	
   -CHEMICAL TOXICANTS.  Pesticides, overtreatment.	 

	




-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Water Quality Terminology	                           
-DOC-
                           Water Quality Terminology	
                 Tom Schwedler, Extension Aquaculture Specialist
	
ACID - A substance that can react with a base to form a salt.  An acid releases 
hydrogen ions when added to water.  Addition of an acid to water will decrease 
the pH.  Common examples of acids are acetic acid (in vinegar), citric acid (in 
lemons) and sulfuric acid (in car batteries).	
	
ACTINOMYCETES - A group of filamentus, fungus-like bacteria common to soils and 
water.  Actinomycetes produce a veriety of volatile compounds including some 
that may contribute to off-flavor in fish.	
	
AEROBIC - Containing oxygen or being carried out in the presence of oxygen.     
	
ALGAE - A diverse group of organisms which carry out an oxygen-evolving type of 
photosynthesis.  These plants may be microscopic and suspended in the water 
(phytoplankton) or large enough to be easily seen and growing in mats or stands 
(filamentous algae).	
	
ALKALINE - Generally means to have a pH greater than 7.	
	
	
	
ALKALINITY - The total concentration of basic substances in water.  In general 
it refers to the sum of the concentrations of bicarbonate, carbonate, and 
hydroxide ions.  Alkalinity is historically expressed as mg/l or ppm or 
equivalent calcium carbonate.  Waters with a high alkalinity are more highly 
buffered than waters of low alkalinity.	
	
AMMONIA - NH3, a gaseous form of nitrogen that is found in pond water.  Ammonia 
is potentially toxic to fish.	
	
AMMONIUM - NH+4, the ion resulting from reactions of ammonia in water.  
Ammonium is not toxic to fish.	
	
ANAEROBIC - Lacking oxygen or being carried out in the absence of oxygen.       
	
BACTERIA - One-celled, microscopic organisms that lack chlorophyll.  Bacteria 
are important in mineral cycling and decomposition processes and some cause 
diseases.	
	
BASE - A substance that reacts with acids to form salts.  A base accepts 
hydrogen ions when added to water.  Addition of a base to water will increase 
the pH.  Also called "alkalis," common examples of bases are sodium bicarbonate 
(baking soda), and calcium carbonate (lime).                     	
	
BENTHIC - Referring to the sediment or mud of a pond.	
	
BICARBONATE - Having the HCO-3 group.  A weak base comprising the alkalinity 
system of waters.	
	
BLOOM - A dense community of phytoplankton.	
	
BLUE-GREEN ALGAE - A major grouping of algae that have characterisitics of 
algae and bacteria.  Blue-green algae may be the cause of off-flavor in 
catfish.	 
	
BUFFERED - Tending to  resist changes in pH when an acid or base is added.      
	
CARBONATE - Having the CO=3 group.  A weak base comprising the alkalinity 
system of waters.	
	
CARBON DIOXIDE - A gas comprising about 0.03% of the atmosphere.  It is used by 
plants in photosynthesis to produce organic matter and released in respiration. 
 
Carbon dioxide (CO2) dissolved in water forms a weakly acidic solution.	 
	
DENITRIFICATION - Loss of nitrogen from a system.  Usually refers to the 
conversion of nitrate to nitrogen gas under anaerobic conditions.  The 
conversion is carried out by bacteria and the nitrogen gas is lost from the 
pond.	
	
DIFFUSION - The movement of molecules from an area of high concentration to an 
area of low concentration.  For example, oxygen will move from the air into 
oxygen-deficient water until the water is saturated with oxygen.	
	
DISSOLVED OXYGEN - Elemental oxygen gas (O2) contained in water.	
	
EQUILIBRIUM - In chemistry, equilibrium is the state where forward and reverse 
reactions occur at equal rates.  A stable system.	
	
FILAMENTOUS ALGAE - Cottony, thread-like algae that grow in clouds or mats.     
	
HARDNESS - Refers to the concentration of calcium plus magnesium in water.  
Historically expressed a mg/l or ppm of equivalent calcium carbonate.	
	
HYDROXIDE - Having the OH- group.  A strong base comprising the alkalinity 
system of waters.	
	
METHEMOGLOBIN - A form of blood hemoglobin that is unable to carry oxygen.  
Methemoglobin is formed when nitrites react with hemoglobin.	
	
NEUTRALIZE - To bring to a pH of 7 such as adding an acid to a basic solution 
to form a salt.	
	
NITRATE - Having the NO-3 group.  Nitrates are a major source of nitrogen for 
plant growth.	
	
NITRITE - Having the NO-2 group.  Nitrites are potentially toxic to fish.       
	
NITRIFICATION - The process of converting ammonium to nitrite and then to 
nitrate.  Nitrification is an aerobic process carried out by bacteria.	
	
OFF-FLAVOR - Having an unusual, bad taste.	
	
OXYGEN DEMAND - The amount of oxygen required for a particular process to 
occur.	
	
pH - A measure of the acidity or basicity of water.  Distilled water has a pH 
of 7, waters that are acid have a pH less than 7, basic water, greater than 7.  
Precisely, pH is the negative logarithm of the hydrogen ion concentration.      
	
PHOTOSYNTHESIS - The process in which green plants convert carbon dioxide and 
water into organic compounds using light energy.  In the process of 
photosynthesis, carbon dioxide is consumed and oxygen is liberated.	
	
PHYTOPLANKTON - Microscopic plants suspended in the water.	
	
PLANKTON - Plant or animals, usually microscopic, suspended in the water.       
	
RESPIRATION - The process of converting organic compounds to carbon dioxide, 
water and energy.  Respiration is the utilization of food by plants and 
animals.  In the process of respiration, carbon dioxide is released and oxygen 
is consumed.	
	
SATURATED - To contain all of a substance that can normally be dissolved under 
a given set of conditions.  Water is saturated with 8.1 mg/l oxygen at 25C and 
760 mm of mercury.	 
	
STRATIFY - To become layered, such as when warm ater overlies cooler, dense 
water.	
	
STRESS - A physiological change induced in fish - caused by suboptimal 
conditions (Stressor).  Resulting in the fish expending extra enery to maintain 
life.	 
	
SUPERSATURATED - Containing more of a substance than can normally be dissolved. 
 
Water is supersaturated with 12 mg/l oxygen at 25C and 760 mm of mercury.       
 
	
TOXICITY, ACUTE - Having a short, relatively severe course usually within 4 
days. 	
	
TOXICITY, CHRONIC - Occurring over a long period of time and having a less 
dramatic effect, usually, weeks or months.	
	
TURBID - Being cloudy or muddy due to sediment or plankton being suspended in 
the water.	
	
UN-IONIZED AMMONIA - NH3	
	
ZOOPLANKTON - Microscopic animals suspended in water.	
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CRP PROGRAM BOOSTS WILDLIFE HABITAT	                      
-DOC-
                      CRP PROGRAM BOOSTS WILDLIFE HABITAT	
                    Frederick A. Busch, Wildlife Biologist	
	
Wildlife habitat on many South Carolina farms can be improved as a  result  of 
the Conservation Reserve Program (CRP).	 
	
The CRP,  part of the Food Security Act of 1985,  was established as an incen-
tive for farmers to remove  highly  erodible  cropland  from  production,  and 
substitute conservation practices such as permanent grass,  trees and wildlife 
plantings.	 
	
Farmers who have erodible land to put into the CRP must sign a  contract  with 
the Federal government agreeing to take the land out of crop production for at 
least  10  years.  In return,  the Federal government will pay the farmer one-
half the cost of planting the land with a vegetative cover,  plus  provide  an 
annual rental payment for the CRP acreage for 10 years.	 
	
Government  cost-sharing  can  be  obtained  for a variety of perennial forage 
plants,  shrubs and trees used  to  improve  wildlife  habitat.  Additionally, 
Washington  has  just approved the use of annual plantings for wildlife on CRP 
lands.  Although cost-sharing is not available for annual wildlife plots,  the 
	
yearly rental payments will still be paid on those acres as long as erosion is 
controlled.  This  new  facet  of the program will allow a farmer to "have his 
cake and eat it too." He could plant food plots for  doves,  deer,  turkey  or 
quail  and  then  market  the  hunting rights.  Wildlife food plots may not be 
harvested, grazed or cut for hay.	 
	
By placing a portion of the CRP acreage in cost-shareable wildlife  management 
practices, a farmer can give wildlife a boost, make his land more valuable and 
increase recreational opportunities for himself and his family.	 
	
It  is  estimated  that South Carolina has more than 400,000 acres of erodible 
land eligible for the CRP.  So far,  about 180,000 acres have  been  enrolled, 
and 80 percent of that will be planted in pine trees.  Reserving 10 percent of 
a  typical  pine  plantation for openings and wildlife food plots will greatly 
improve the area for wildlife.  The ability to use annual planting,  in  addi-
tion  to the permanent shrubs and trees planted for wildlife,  should signifi-
cantly increase the effectiveness of the CRP.	 
	
The CRP is expected to halt 750 million tons per year of soil  erosion  across 
the United States and improve water quality by reducing the amount of sediment 
reaching  streams and other waterways by 211 million tons annually.  Pesticide 
	
use will be reduced by an estimated 60 million pounds.  The CRP will also help 
stabilize the farm economy by decreasing the supply of farm commodities.	 
	
Landowners interested in signing up for  the  CRP  should  contact  the  local 
Agricultural  Stabilization  and Conservation Service or the Soil Conservation 
Service.	 
	
State wildlife department personnel are available to visit farms and assist in 
developing wildlife management plans.  For more information about the program, 
call the state wildlife department's small game project at (803) 734-3886.  
	
                              * * * * * * * * * *	
	
This information was obtained from SCWMRD newsletter,  John  Evans,  Chief  of 
Information.	 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHAT DO HIGH SOMATIC CELL COUNTS MEAN?	                     
-DOC-
                     WHAT DO HIGH SOMATIC CELL COUNTS MEAN?	
                      R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
I.   The Effect of High Somatic Cell Counts	
        A.  Lowered Production	
        B.  Increased Chance of Clinical Mastitis	
        C.  Sometimes a Heartible Condition	
	
II.  Causes of High Somatic Cell Counts	
        A.  Infectious Mastitis	
              1.  Various Organism	
              2.  Improper Milking Procedures	
                    a.  Undermilking	
                    b.  Flooding Milk Claws--Inadequate vac. Reserve	
                    c.  Wet Bedding, Green Sawdust	
                    d.  Milking cows with wet udders	
         B.  Inflammation of the Udder--Cellulitis (Bruising)	
         C.  Faulty Pulsators	
         D.  Stray Voltage	
         E.  Improper Milking Techniques	
               1.  Fright	
               2.  Poor Sanitation	

                           MORE ON SOMATIC CELLS	
	
Dairy Producers often ask, "What is the problem with high somatic cell counts?  
Dr. Hal Schulte field veterinarian for the New York State Mastitis Control 
Program says most people could not discern between two glasses of milk--one 
with a cell count of a million and the other with a cell count of 100,000--
although the differences in composition are obvious.	
	
A high somatic cell count in milk means a significant decrease in the quality 
of milk.  There is a reduction in quality components of milk, such as protein 
levels, casein, butterfat, milk sugars, calcium, phosphorous, magnesium and 
vitamins and there's an increase in the salts, serum protein and two enzymes 
which reduce the quality of the milk.	
	
One of the enzymes is lipase which breaks down fat and increases rancidity, 
which decrease the shelf life of milk.  The other enzyme is plasmin which 
breaks down protein.  This reduces the nutritional value of milk as well as the 
amount of cheese that can be made from the milk.	
	
There are several unusual factors in the way dairy producers treat the problem 
of high sometic cell milk.  Producers have been diligent not to save milk that 
has clumps in it nor milk from fresh cows until the milk has time to clear.  In 
affect both of these conditions reflect high somatic cell counts although there 
are other components such as colostrum that are also present.  On the one hand 
we have been discarding high somatic cell count milk when we could see the 
effect.	
	
Now we are advising you to have your cows checked on a monthly basis for 
somatic cell counts and be equally as diligent in discarding high somatic cell 
count milk even though the cells are not visible as clumps but recognizing that 
the effect is the same.	
	
In addition, the benefits are similar as we get more milk with better quality 
and it is safer health-wise for humans.  It makes good sense to appreciate the 
effect somatic cells have on milk and work to keep the cell counts low in our 
herds.  Then we can continue to boast of the excellent quality of our product.	







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NITRATE TOXICITY                                
-DOC-
                               NITRATE TOXICITY 
                     R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian
                                                         
The drought of 1986 stimulated a lot of interest in nitrate toxicity and we are 
getting some high readings from a few locales.  When we had some rain the 
nitrate danger was not diminished but rather was greater than during the 
drought. The rain caused the plants to renew growth and take up nitrogen 
rapidly.  The plant will then have high levels of nitrate until it can 
assimilate the nitrogen.  It has been estimated that this process should take 
one to two weeks under normal conditions. 
 
The following is a chart taken from a publication from Pennsylvania State 
University that gives the toxic nitrate levels in percentage of nitrate 
nitrogen.  Clemson University Forage Testing Laboratory reports nitrate levels 
as nitrate nitrogen (NO3-N).  The SC Department of Agriculture laboratory 
reports nitrate levels as Nitrate (NO3) so that you have to convert their 
figures by dividing by a factor of 4.4 to get the reading in nitrate-nitrogen.  
This chart also gives the effect of nitrate toxicity over time.  
Level of Nitrate (NO3)
on Dry Matter Basis                Comments
_________________________________________________________________
 
0.0 - 0.10 % (0.0 to 1,000 ppm)    This level is considered safe
                                   to feed under all conditions.
 
0.1 - 0.15% (1000 to 1500 ppm)     This level should be safe 
                                   to feed to non-pregnant animals.
                                   Limit to 50% of the total ration 
                                   in pregnant animals (On a dry
                                   matter basis). 
 
0.15 - 0.20% (1500 to 2000 ppm)    Limit to 50% of the total dry
                                   matter in the ration.
 
0.20 - 0.35% (2000 to 3500 ppm)    Limit to 35-40% of the total
                                   dry matter in the ration. 
                                   Should not be used in pregnant
                                   cows. 
0.35 - 0.40% (3500 to 4000 ppm)    Limit to 25% of the total dry
                                   matter in ration. Do not feed
                                   to pregnant cows.
_________________________________________________________________
 
There may be times you have to make conversions from one system of reporting 
to another; therefore, the following conversion table is given for Nitrogen 
Conversion factors: 
________________________________________________________________ 
Nitrate Nitrogen (N)           1.0 
Nitrite (NO2)                  3.3 
Nitrate (NO3)                  4.4 
Sodium nitrate (NaNO3)         6.1 
Potassium nitrate (KNO3)       7.2      
________________________________________________________________
 
The above values are based on molecular weight and do not agree as well with 
the toxicity values.  This means basically that the toxicity values are 
estimates and no one can give a definite figure for toxicity. We can also get 
an additive effect if there is a high nitrate level in the cow's drinking 
water. The following is a Nebraska table for nitrate in water. 
Water Nitrate Level Significance
________________________________________________________________
45-50 ppm nitrate               Maximum safe level in water. Loss
or 5ppm nitrite                 of production (weight gain & growth)
 
50-300 ppm Nitrate              Severe production loss, reduced
                                disease resistance and abortion
 
300-600 ppm nitrate             Acute toxicity and death.
________________________________________________________________
 
Remember that nitrate is highest in the lower parts of the plant. Be sure and 
get a representative sample of the plant to be fed when you do field tests.  
It doesn't matter that the stalk has 20,000 ppm if it is going to stay in the 
field but if it is to be a part of the silage it must be averaged with the 
leaves and grain to give you an average reading. Cows that are being fed grain 
are less susceptible to nitrate toxicity.  In addition cows build up 
resistance to nitrate. Nitrate is converted in the rumen to nitrite which is 
toxic.    The rate of conversion is the primary factor.  Remember that 
nitrates can be converted to nitrite in nature by letting high nitrate hay get 
wet.  Nitrite is ten times as toxic as nitrate. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MASTITIS AGENTS                             
-DOC-
                             MASTITIS AGENTS
                  R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian

CAUSATIVE AGENT            SOURCE(S)                      COMMENTS

Staphylococcus       1. Found in nasal membranes,   1. Responsible for highest
aureus                  hair follicles, skin and       incidence of mastitis.
                        perineum of warm blooded                                
                        animals, principally man                                
                        and infected mastitic cows.

                     2. Stall bedding               2. Can develop resistance to
                                                       penicillin.

                     3. Feed troughs                3. Antibiotic sensitivity   
                                                       assay essential prior to 
                                                       drug therapy.

                     4. Newly purchased cows.       4. Extremely difficult to   
                                                       eliminate from internal  
                                                       udder infections.
                     
                     5. Surface wounds of teats     5. Can be found in combina- 
                        and udders.                    tion with Streptococcus  
                                                       agalactia.

                     6. Skin surfaces of the cow`s  6. Early detection critical 
                        legs, teats and udder.         for successful treatment 
                                                       and minimizing udder cell 
                                                       damage.

                     7. Teat and udder contact      7. Infection can lead to
                        with sores on milker's         gangrenous quarters.
                        hands.

                     8. Transfer through milk via
                        the pipeline during milking.

Streptococcus        1. Essentially, the major      1. Responsible for second  
agalactiae              source is the infected         highest incidence of
                        cow (s).                       mastitis.

                     2. Transfer through milk       2. Causes 20-40 subclinical
                        via the pineline during        infections for each
                        milking.                       clinical infection.

                     3. Contaminated floors         3. Can be found in comb-
                                                       ination with Staph.
                                                       infection.

                     4. Newly purchased cows.       4. Proper sanitation
                                                       practices and correct    
                                                       milking procedures
                                                       essential to prevent     
                                                       cross infection between  
                                                       infected and noninfected 
                                                       cows.

                     5. Heifer calves suckling      5. Susceptible to penicillin
                        penmates.                      as a rule.

                     6. Milking personnel as
                        carriers.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Streptococcus        1. Cow's skin and lips         1. Most likely new infection
uberis and                                             initiated by animal to
dysgalactia                                            animal contact, with teat
                                                       becoming infected.

                     2. Udder and teat skin         2. New infections appear
                                                       associated with seasonal
                                                       trends (winter), lacta-
                                                       tion cycle (early stage) 
                                                       and older cows.

                     3. Infected milk                3. Correct milking proce-
                                                        dures essential.
                        
                                                     4. Infection originates    
                                                        from mouth of cow.

                                                     5. Can live in vagina; able
                                                        to cause metritis.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Coliform Group       1. Sediment from unclean        1. Unclean herd environment
A. Escherichia          surroundings, flank                
   coli                 and udder.

B. Enterobacter      2. Manure                       2. Not transmitted directly
   aerogenes                                            from cow to cow.

C. Klebsiella        3. Polluted water (barnyard)    3. Infection occurs when
   sp.                                                  aminated material
                                                        contacts canal opening  
                                                        and enter.

                     4. Unclean equipment            4. Antibiotic sensitivity  
                                                        assay essential to good
                                                        treatment results.
                    
                     5. Wet bedding especially       5. Peracute mastitis can   
                        green sawdust.                  lead to death due to    
                                                        endotoxin.    

                     6. Infected quarter of other    6. Infections can occur at
                        cows.                           any stage of lactation; 
                                                        easiest milkers seem to
                                                        be more susceptible.
                                                     
                                                     7. Usually isolated in a   
                                                        pure culture.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pseudomonas          1. Contaminated water used      1. A key to prevention is
sp.                     for udder washing.              practicing good         
                                                        sanitation.

                     2. Soil                         2. Pseudomonas species are
                                                        generally antibiotic 
                     3. Manure                          resistant; antibiotic 
                                                        sensitivity assay       
                     4. Barnyard surfaces.              essential for good      
                                                        therapy.
                     5. Contaminated teat cup
                        inflations (liners).

                     6. Contaminated needles or
                        teat canulas.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Corynebacterium      1. Infectious lesions as        1. Rare cause of mastitis.
pyogenes                abscesses.

                     2. Mocous surfaces of the       2. May follow severe teat
                        suckling calf.                  injury.

                     3. Transferred by contact
                        of the teat canal with 
                        skin lesion (abscess)
                        of a human carrier.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mycoplasma sp.       1. Infected cattle serve as     1. Antibiotics not 
A. M. bovirhinis        a reservoir for this org-       effective against 
                        anism; primarily inhabits       Mycoplasma organism.
                        the respiratory tract.
                                                     2. Rare occurrence.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mycoplasma           1. Common habitat is cow's      1. May be responsible for
bovigenitalium          genital tract.                  vaginal infection and
                                                        lowered fertility.

                     2. Can be isolated from the     2. Causes increased
                        udder alveoli with mastitis.    eosinophi leucocyte     
                                                        count.

                                                     3. Infectious process by   
                                                        direct contact with
                                                        infected cow.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mycoplasma           1. Inhabits cow's genital       1. Clinical signs similar
agalactiae              tract.                          to M. bovigenitalium.
subspecies-
bovis.
                                                     2. Infectious process by
                                                        direct contact with
                                                        infected animal.

Clostridium          1. Soil                         1. Wounded or injured
perfringes                                              teats.

                     2. Manure                       2. Often fatal to cows.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Adapted from: "Making Leucocytes Count"
Purdue University, DH-127

                     
    
                                                       
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PUREBRED DAIRY CATTLE ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH CAROLINA              
-DOC-
              PUREBRED DAIRY CATTLE ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH CAROLINA
                    F. E. Pardue, Extension Dairy Scientist	
	
President - Mr. Steve Mills, Route 1, Saluda, SC  29138	
	
Vice President - Mr. Harold Longshore, Nichols & Longshore, Route 1, Saluda, SC 
                 29138	
	
Secretary - Dr. Dwight Vines, 119 Poole Agricultural Center, Clemson 
            University, Clemson, SC   29634-0363	
	
Treasurer - Mr. Thomas Lee Martin, Route 1, Box 1830A, Liberty, SC  29657	
 
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AMERICAN DAIRY ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH CAROLINA                  
-DOC-
                  AMERICAN DAIRY ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH CAROLINA
                    F. E. Pardue, Extension Dairy Scientist	
	
President - Mr. Hugh Weathers, Bowman, SC  29018	
	
Vice President - Mr. Jim Dorm, Hickory Hill, Route 2, Box 152, Edgefield, SC  
                 29824	
	
Secretary/Treasurer - Mr. Aubrey Murphy, Route 1, Starr, SC  29684	
	
Manager - Mr. Homer Sink, Suite 105, Koger Bldg., 2306 West Meadowview Rd., 
          Greensboro, NC  29407	
	
Member Executive Committee - Mr. J. P. Butler, Route 2, Saluda, SC  29138	
 
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOUTH CAROLINA FARM BUREAU (DAIRY)	                       
-DOC-
                       SOUTH CAROLINA FARM BUREAU (DAIRY)	
                    F. E. Pardue, Extension Dairy Scientist	
	
Chairman - Mr. Bill Butler, Lone Oak Dairy, Starr Route, Lynchburg, SC  29080	
	
Vice Chairman - Mr. Sam McGregor, Laurinton Dairy Farm, Route 4, Hopkins,	
                SC  29061	
	
Coordinator - Mrs. Debbie Cook, P. O. Box 754, Columbia, SC  29202	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOUTH CAROLINA HOLSTEIN-FRIESIAN ASSOCIATION	                
-DOC-
               SOUTH CAROLINA HOLSTEIN-FRIESIAN ASSOCIATION	 
                 F. E. Pardue, Extension Dairy Scientist	 
	 
President - Mr. Gerald Milford, Route 4, Abbeville, SC  29620	 
	 
Vice President - Mr. Morris Jones, Route 3, Saluda, SC  29138	 
	 
Secretary/Treasurer - Mr. Lee Ward, Route 2, Box 32, Gray Court, SC  29645	
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOUTH CAROLINA JERSEY CATTLE CLUB	                       
-DOC-
                       SOUTH CAROLINA JERSEY CATTLE CLUB	
                    F. E. Pardue, Extension Dairy Scientist	
	
President - Mr. Claude Wheeler, Route 2, Saluda, SC  29138	
	
Vice President - Dr. Jim Ligon, 108 McAdams, Hall, Clemson University, Clemson, 
                 SC  29634	
	
Secretary - Mr. Phil Perry, P. O. Box 246, Saluda, SC  29138	
	
Treasurer - Mr. A. F. Busby, P. O. Box 160, Newberry, SC  29108	
 
 
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOUTH CAROLINA GUERNSEY CATTLE CLUB	                      
-DOC-
                      SOUTH CAROLINA GUERNSEY CATTLE CLUB	
                    F. E. Pardue, Extension Dairy Scientist	
	
President - Mr. Perry Hamm, Route 4, Box 109, Newberry, SC  29108	
	
Vice President - Mr. Randy Mitchell, Route 5, Saluda, SC  29138	
	
Secretary/Treasurer - Mrs. Emma Lovelace, Route 7, Box 420-A, Orangeburg, SC  
                      29115	
 
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOUTH CAROLINA DAIRY GOAT ASSOCIATION                     
-DOC-
                     SOUTH CAROLINA DAIRY GOAT ASSOCIATION
                    F. E. Pardue, Extension Dairy Scientist	
	
President - Mrs. Dana Silverman, Box 145, Blacksburg, SC  29702	
 
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DAIRY CALENDAR                                      
-DOC-
                                    DAIRY CALENDAR  
                      Fred E. Pardue, Extension Dairy Scientist  
	
	
                        DECEMBER 15, 1987 - JANUARY 22, 1988	
 	
DEC 15-16                      14th Annual Dairy Conference - Ramada Inn, 
                               Clemson, SC	
JAN 7       10:00A - 4:30P     Extension In-Service Training-Financial 
                               Management Dairy, F149 Poole Agricultural 
                               Building - Clemson, SC	
JAN 20                         Dairy Tech Meeting, Mid-Carolina Country Club - 
                               Prosperity, SC	
JAN 22                         Annual Meeting SC Jersey Cattle Club - Columbia, 
                               SC	



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COST OF DART                                 
-DOC-
                                 COST OF DART
                  Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

DART is a very competitive alternative to commercial software when considering
costs.  A ten dollar monthly base fee is charged to DART users.  In addition,
users must pay for telephone connect time and main-frame computer usage time. 
However, software has been developed for microcomputers which allows for
dataentry "off-line".  In other words, the dairy producer enters all herd status
changes onto a floppy disk, then connects to the main-frame computer at the DRPC
at Raleigh and transmits all data at one time.  This greatly reduces telephone
and computer connect time.  In addition, DART can be accessed in the evenings
and on weekends to take advantage of cheaper phone and computer rates.  In fact,
it is possible to prepare DART files and then send the information at a latter
specified time through an auto-call procedure.  The DRPC at Raleigh is currently
testing newly-developed software referred to as "PC Dart" in which a DART user's
file is downloaded monthly to an on-farm computer and all daily DART work will
be done on the farm.  With this program, connection to DRPC's main-frame is
necessary only once a month.  This program is projected to cost about $1,695,
with this price including software maintenance and all updates.
This software package should be available soon.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NATIONAL DHIA                                  
-DOC-
                                  NATIONAL DHIA
                  Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist
                       
National DHIA was formed in 1965 to encourage greater input by dairy farmers in
developing policy for the DHIA program and to encourage dairy farmers to accept
an increasing share of the responsibility for conducting the program. National
DHIA is a federation of 49 state DHIA's, made up exclusively of the 64,000 dairy
farmers enrolled in the DHIA system.  The 13-member board of directors is
comprised of active DHIA dairy farmers elected by delegates representing member
states.

National DHIA coordinates the activities of the state DHIA members, and
represents DHIA dairy farmers on a national basis.  It also has the
responsibility of interpreting and enforcing rules and standards, and monitoring
the quality of programs and services provided by member associations.  National
DHIA has implemented the Quality Certification Service (QCS), which sets minimum
standards that all state members must meet in order for their records to be
classified as official.  DHIA field services, DHIA laboratories, and DHIA
computing centers are evaluated on a yearly basis, and must meet standards set 
forth by QCS(see section on quality certification).  National DHIA also
publishes "DAIRY" magazine which provides current and pertinent information to
all DHIA members.  It also established "DAIRY NET, DHIA's Information Service,"
a computer informational network that dairy producers can access by a remote
computer terminal.  In summary, National DHIA exists to provide services and
information to its members, maintain the integrity of DHIA records, and
coordinate DHIA activities on a national basis.

The address of the national office is:  
National Dairy Herd Improvement Association, Inc.
3021 East Dublin Granville Road
Columbus, Ohio  43229
(614) 8903630
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LOCAL DHIA ASSOCIATIONS                            
-DOC-
                            LOCAL DHIA ASSOCIATIONS
                 Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

Local Dairy Herd Improvement (DHI) associations are formed within the state
consisting of smaller groups of DHI members living in the same area.  Membership
in a local association automatically constitutes membership in the state and
national associations.  

One of the main responsibilities of the local associations is to employ DHI
supervisors.  The supervisors, formerly known as the "milk testers", are the key
persons responsible for assuring that each DHI member receives complete,
accurate, useful and unbiased information.  The supervisor visits the farm once
a month, records milk weights and collects a milk sample from each cow.  In
addition, the supervisor records all herd activity from the previous month, such
as cows that have been turned dry, cows that have calved, cows sold, etc.  All
information is recorded on "barn sheets".  The barn sheets and the milk samples
are sent to the Southeast Dairy Lab in McDonough, Ga., where the samples are
analyzed for milk components.  After the milk component data has been entered on
the barn sheets, they are then sent to the Dairy Records Processing Center
(DRPC) at Raleigh, N.C., where the information is entered into a computer andthe
records processed.  

As DHI services grow and become more technical, the supervisor will become even
more important to the success of the DHI organization.  The supervisor
needs to be well-informed and must be able to help the dairy producers use
the information that is available through DHI records.  Standards set forth
by National DHIA's Quality Certification program ensure that supervisors are
well-trained, so they can effectively carry out their duties.

The local associations operate on assessment money  collected from its members.
The associations decide how much and how often the members will be charged
an assessment.  This money is used to perpetuate the day to day functions of
the organization, such as meter repair, the purchase of meter parts, etc.  

Following is a list of local associations, their presidents (P),
vice-presidents(VP), supervisors (S) and phone numbers:

ASSOCIATION           OFFICERS                    PHONE NUMBERS

Bamberg             Johnny Carter (P)             267-3332
                    Dan Heatwole (VP)             793-4394
                    David Linder (S)              245-4772				

Coastal             Elias Tupper (P)              871-3751
                    Britt Rhodes (VP)
                    David Linder (S)              245-4772

Greenville          Terry Blakely (P)             277-3878
                    George Farris (VP)
                    Richard Brown (S)             682-2471
                    N. B. Williams (S)            859-6641

Newberry-Laurens    Wayne Satterwhite (P)         276-3508
                    Henry Longshore (S)           276-2615
                    Lewis Porterfield (S)         276-5105
				
Orangeburg          Archie Felder (P)             829-2154
                    Glen O'Cain (S)               536-0101
                    Laurie Harmon (S)             531-4575

Pee-Dee             A. L. McCaskill (P)           428-3496
                    Ray Watford (VP)              346-3331
                    Jan Morris (S)	
                    Robert Hilton (S)             481-2417

Saluda              Joel Riley (P)                445-8591
                    Claude Wheeler (VP)           445-3312
                    Richard Von Crawford (S)      445-3773
                    Ralph Schaewe (S)             445-7601

Spartanburg         Kirk McKeown (P)              585-0013
                    Chris Anderson (VP)
                    Kathryn Stanfield (S)        472-9404

Tri-County          Gerald Milford (P)           446-2581
                    N. B. Williams (S)           859-6641
                    Richard Culbreth (S)         446-2671
                    Mitch Bennett (S)            226-0802
				
York-Chester        Herbert Lutz (P)             385-6929
                    Dwight Wood (VP)             366-3698
                    R. Bryan Campbell (S)        789-5687
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DEFINITION OF DHIA                              
-DOC-
                              DEFINITION OF DHIA
                  Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

The DHI organization, formally known as the National Cooperative Dairy
Herd Improvement Program (NCDHIP), is a national industry wide dairy
production testing and record-keeping system.  Its purpose is to provide
production and management information to dairy farmers so that they can make
wise management decisions, breed and herd improvements, and genetic evaluations
of animals.  It also provides information to industry organizations, land-grant
colleges and universities, and governmental agencies for education and genetic
evaluation research programs.

The standard DHI procedure for obtaining herd production performance
information starts with a monthly visit to the farm by a DHI supervisor.  This
person is hired by the local DHI Association and must attend a formal training
session.  The supervisor collects a milk sample from each cow and records her
milk production on "barn sheets".  In addition, the supervisor records all
herd activity for the previous month, such as cows turned dry, cows calved, and
cows bred.  The barn sheets and the milk samples are then sent to a laboratory
which analyzes the samples for milk components, such as milk fat, milk protein,
and somatic cells.  (The samples from South Carolina are analyzed at The
Southeast Dairy Lab in McDonough, Ga.).  Following the analysis of the milk
samples, the completed barn sheets are then sent to the Dairy Records Processing
Center (DRPC), which  is in Raleigh, North Carolina.  There, the information is
entered into the computer, and the records are "processed".  The dairy producer
receives a computer printout 7 to 10 days after the supervisor has visited the
farm, which summarizes the cows' performance on an individual basis and also on
a herd basis.  In addition to the standard reports received each month, the
dairy producer can also  receive "Optional Management Lists".  These reports
are additional herd management tools and include listings of cows to turn dry,
cows to calve, cows in order of test day milk production, monthly graphs of
herd parameters, herd comparison summary, somatic cell summary, culling guide,
and many more (see Section on Optional Management Lists).

The first DHI association was established in Michigan in 1905.  Since that
time, it has progressed and expanded to become what is now one of the
most sophisticated record-keeping systems in all of agriculture.  At the
present time, 46% of all cows in the United States are enrolled in a DHI
testing program.  Cows on test give an average of 4,000 pounds per year more
than their non-tested contemporaries.  In addition, their merchandising value
is considerably higher.  DHIA records take the quesswork out of managing a
dairy herd, because complete records on each individual cow are provided. 
For more information on the DHI program in South Carolina, please contact one
ofthe following persons:

Dr. Jean Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist  656-3231
Mr. Richard Culbreth, SCDHIA Fieldman  446-2671
Mr. George Binnicker, SCDHIA President  263-4645
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BENEFITS OF DART                               
-DOC-
                               BENEFITS OF DART
                   Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

The benefits of using DART as a herd management tool are numerous, such as:

1) Records can be updated daily or weekly, rather than monthly when the tester
is on the farm.

2) Up-to-the minute management reports can be created and printed in the farm
office.  These reports are tailor-made to include any information relevant to
the operation.  These reports can be used to group cows, breed cows, cull cows,
etc.  Reports can also be created which will alert the producer for cows in
heat, cows to turn dry, or cows to calve.

3) Supervisor test-day input through DART provides current milk weights to the
producer before the tester has even left the farm.  DART can sort and group cows
according to any specifications given.

4) The ration program enables the farmer to change or revise his/her ration
quickly using available feeds.  It is strongly recommended that forage samples be analyzed so that actual forage composition values can be used.  This
results in more nutritional and economical rations.

5) The sire summary program aids in the selection of bulls according
to parameters set forth by the dairy producer.  All active AI sires are
maintained on file, so bulls from different AI studs can be compared.

6) Since DART is accessed via a telephone, it is available virtually 24 hours
a day.  DART is maintained by a full-time staff and updates and improvements
are continually being made.  Most changes result from suggestions submitted
by producers enrolled in DART.  For these reasons, DART is a very
competitive alternative to commercial software.  DART subscribers never have to
worry about their software becoming obsolete and having to purchase new
software, as would be the case with commercial software.  The cost of DART is
also very competitive (see section on Cost of DART).

	
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DEFINITION OF DART                             
-DOC-
                             DEFINITION OF DART
                  Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

DART (Direct Access to Records by Telephone) is an optional program offered to
dairy producers whose DHI records are processed through the Dairy Records
Processing Center at Raleigh, North Carolina.  DHI records for herds on DART are
processed in the normal fashion, but DART users have the additional ability to
access their records "on-line" through an on-farm microcomputer or terminal.
DART users input daily herd activities such as cows fresh, dried, sold, bred, or
in heat, as well as results of pregnancy checks, fresh cow checks, and group
changes.  Herd health data and replacement heifer information can also be
entered.  The dairy producer can then print up-to-the-minute management reports
in the farm office.  These reports can consist of a standard format, or, the
farmer can custom-design management reports to include any information relative
to his/her operation.

Herds on DART can have their supervisor input test day milk weights, which
allows the producer to have immediate access to current production information.
Cows can actually be grouped according to milk production or selected to be
culled or dried off even before the supervisor leaves the farm.  DART herds
will, of course, receive their regular DHIA reports in the mail in 7 to 10 days.
In addition to creating management reports, DART can also be used to
balance rations and aid in sire selection.  A least-cost ration program is
available through DART that balances rations according to National Research
Council guidelines for crude protein, energy, crude or acid detergent fiber,
calcium, phosphorus, sodium, magnesium, sulfur and potassium.  Forage to
concentrate ratios and calcium to phosphorus ratios are also considered.  The
latest herd production information is used to determine nutrient requirements. 
These requirements can be changed if desired.  Feedstuffs currently available to
the farmer are used to determine the make-up of the ration.  It is
strongly recommended that all forages be analyzed for nutrient content.  If
actual forage composition values are used versus "book values," resulting
rations will be both economically and nutritionally sound.

The sire selection program provides access to information on active AI sires.
The file has current information on predicted differences for production based
on USDA Sire Summaries; predicted difference for type and breakdown
type categories from Breed Association type summaries; calving ease score
(% difficult first births) from the National Association of Animal Breeders
(NAAB) calving ease summary; and semen prices obtained from each AI
organization.  The sire summary program can be used in two ways.  First of all,
it can be used to simply obtain the most current information on a particular
bull.  Or, it can beused to select a group of bulls based on certain criteria
that is determined by the producer.  The producer then mates his/her cows from
this list of bulls.

In summary, DART is a very useful management tool for producers enrolled in DHI.
DART users have extensive control of their herd management data.  The
only limitation to the combination of information contained in the reports is
the imagination of the user.

For further information on DART, contact:
                         
                 Dr. Jean A. Bertrand
                 Extension Dairy Scientist
                 Clemson University
                 656-3231

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
REQUIREMENTS FOR USING DART                       
-DOC-
                       REQUIREMENTS FOR USING DART
                Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

In order to successfully use DART, a dairy producer must meet the
following requirements:

1.  Enrollment in the DHI Program
     DART can only be utilized by herds enrolled in DHI whose records
are processed at Raleigh, North Carolina.

2.  DART authorization and password
     DHI herds wishing to enroll in DART must apply for use authorization
and obtain a password.  This is done through the Dairy Extension office at
Clemson. An existing DHI herd can usually be added to the DART file on the same
day requested.

3.  Computer Equipment
     The DART system can be accessed by most standard microcomputer and
ASCII terminals (see section listing microcomputers that are compatible with DRPC
at Raleigh DART software).  The exact protocol is as follows:

          Asynchronous
          Even parity
          Half duplex
          300, 1200, or 2400 baud
          8 level ASCII code (10 bits per character , 7 data bits,
           1 parity bit, 1 start bit, 1 stop bit)
          Teletype 33/35 compatible
          Transmission format character by character
          Minimum 80 character positions per printed line

4.  Telephone Connection
     DART users must have a modem connected to their microcomputer or
terminal which will provide communication with DRPC's mainframe computer via a
telephone. Good telephone service is required for successful use of DART, as
bad connections will distort transmission of data.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOURS DART IS AVAILABLE                             
-DOC-
                             HOURS DART IS AVAILABLE
                    Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

DART is available at all times except 2:00  p.m.  to  2:30  p.m.  and  midnight
to 1:00 a.m.  Eastern time, Monday through Friday.  It is available 24 hours per 
day during weekends and holidays.	
	
On rare occasions a DRPC hardware  or  software  problem  may  cause  the  DART 
system to  be  down  for short periods of time.  If you call and the phone rings
more than four times, you will know the DART system is down temporarily.  Please
call 919/737-2632 if you would  like  to  know  when  DART  is  expected  to  be
available again. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
-END-
-DOC-
-END-


       Facility : St. George Health Care Center, Inc.     
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 187                
                : St. George, SC  29477
       Location : 905 Dukes Street              
                : St. George, SC  29477
          Phone : 563-4602
          Owner : St. George Health Care Ctr. Inc.        
  Administrator : William M. Rogers, Jr.   
 License Number : NCF404
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Dorchester County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Dorchester
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Edgefield County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EDGEFIELD - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               EDGEFIELD - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Plantation House                        
Mailing Address : 122 Court House Sq.      
                : Edgefield, SC  29824
       Location : 122 Court House Sq.           
                : Edgefield, SC  29824
          Phone : 637-3789
          Owner : John F. Hutto, Jr.                 
  Administrator : John F. Hutto, Jr.       
 License Number : 435
    No. of Beds :  13







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EDGEFIELD - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES               
-DOC-
               EDGEFIELD - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Edgefield Health Care                   
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 668                
                : Edgefield, SC  29824
       Location : W.A. Reel Drive               
                : Edgefield, SC  29824
          Phone : 637-5312
          Owner : Southmark/National Heritage Inc.        
  Administrator : Cynthia R. Vann          
 License Number : ICF181
   Beds - Total :   81
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   81

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EDGEFIELD - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                   
-DOC-
                   EDGEFIELD - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licenced skilled nursing care facilities in Edgefield
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EDGEFIELD - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                      
-DOC-
                      EDGEFIELD - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Edgefield County Adult Day Care Center            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 510                 
                : Edgefield, SC  29824
       Location : 400 Church St.                
                : Edgefield, SC  29824
          Phone : 637-5326
          Owner : Edgefield Cty. Sen Citizens Council
  Administrator : Fairey English           
 License Number : ADC6  
   Participants :  10








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Edgefield
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Fairfield County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FAIRFIELD - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               FAIRFIELD - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Code Manor Community Care Home          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 653            
                : Winnsboro, SC  29180
       Location : Greenwood Drive, Old Camden Rd
                : Winnsboro, SC  29180
          Phone : 635-1153
          Owner : Hattie C. Perry/Johnnye C. Stewart 
  Administrator : Hattie C. Perry          
 License Number : 40 
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Lambright's Comm. Care Home, Inc. #3    
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 162 Blytwd    
                : Rigwy, SC  29016
       Location : Peach St.                     
                : Rigwy, SC  29130
          Phone : 786-8612
          Owner : Lambright's Comm. Care Home, Inc.  
  Administrator : Eric M. Lambright        
 License Number : 383
    No. of Beds :  27







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FAIRFIELD - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES               
-DOC-
               FAIRFIELD - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Tanglewood Health Care Center           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 68                
                : Ridgeway, SC  29130
       Location : Third Rd.                     
                : Ridgeway, SC  29130
          Phone : 337-3211
          Owner : Tanglewood Limited Partnership          
  Administrator : Melanie W. Smith         
 License Number : ICF124
   Beds - Total :  150
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :  150

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
}i                   FAIRFIELD - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
-DOC-
}i                   FAIRFIELD - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Fairfield Homes                         
Mailing Address : Box 157                     
                : Ridgeway, SC  29130
       Location : Longtown Rd.                  
                : Ridgeway, SC  29130
  %p     Phone : 337-2257
          Owner : Anco, Inc.                              
  Administrator : Annette B. Cooper        
 License Number : NCF451
   Beds - Total :  112
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   68
     Beds - Icf :   44

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Fairfield County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FAIRFIELD - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                FAIRFIELD - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Ruby C. Blair Residence                 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817, Columbia    
                : Blair, SC  29230
       Location : Rt. l (SC-20-31)              
                : Blair, SC  29015
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Fairfield Special Housing, Inc.         
  Administrator : Christine B. Lineback    
 License Number : M1556 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Stuart L. Blair Residence               
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817, Columbia    
                : Blair, SC  29230
       Location : Rt. l, (SC-20-31)             
                : Blair, SC  29015
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Fairfield Special Housing, Inc.         
  Administrator : Christine B. Lineback    
 License Number : M1555 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                              McClenaghan Place
                           500 South Dargan Street
                             Florence, SC  29501
                                (803) 664-3146
                               Florence County

Contact Person:...............................Margaret F. Moran
Proportion of residents from other states:....20%
Residential capacity..........................50
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 44
Description of Units.................. Three story apartment building
Nursing home ......................... Assisted with placement by local
                                       hospital social director
Units purchased or rented............. Life lease
Security provisions .................. Emergency call system, 24hr security
                                       patrol
Safety features of unit............... Handrails, smoke/fire detectors, seat
                                       in shower, phone in elevator,
                                       emergency hall lights, hospital
                                       next door
Handicapped accommodations............ Ramps, some units designed for
                                       wheelchair occupants
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  YES
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Health, income, 62yrs of age and
                                       older
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Established by director of board
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES 
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... No provisions
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Resident/family assumes full
                                       responsibility
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Six months







INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FLORENCE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               FLORENCE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Beard's Residential Care #1             
Mailing Address : 123 N. Warren            
                : Timmonsville, SC  29161
       Location : 123 N. Warren St.             
                : Timmonsville, SC  29161
          Phone : 346-5272
          Owner : Catherine H. Beard                 
  Administrator : Catherine H. Beard       
 License Number : 140
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Beard's Residential Care #2             
Mailing Address : 123 N. Warren            
                : Timmonsville, SC  29161
       Location : 301 N. Orange St.             
                : Timmonsville, SC  29161
          Phone : 346-3962
          Owner : Catherine H. Beard                 
  Administrator : Catherine H. Beard       
 License Number : 82 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Beard's Residential Care III            
Mailing Address : 123 N. Warren            
                : Timmonsville, SC  29161
       Location : 201 Brockington St.           
                : Timmonsville, SC  29161
          Phone : 346-2287
          Owner : Catherine H. Beard                 
  Administrator : Catherine H. Beard       
 License Number : 331
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Florence Cty. Comm. ADA (Halfway House) 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 4881           
                : Florence, SC  29502
       Location : 605 W. Palmetto St.           
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 665-9349
          Owner : Florence Cty. Comm. ADA            
  Administrator : Charles L. Young         
 License Number : 163
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Florence Residential Care               
Mailing Address : 1312 W. Evans St.        
                : Florence, SC  29501
       Location : 1312 W. Evans St.             
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 662-9192
          Owner : Margaret Capel                     
  Administrator : Margaret Capel           
 License Number : 421
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Gabriel's Community Residential Care    
Mailing Address : 107 N. Harrell St.       
                : Florence, SC       
       Location : 107 N. Harrell St.            
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 669-7634
          Owner : Wilahamenia C. Gabriel             
  Administrator : Wilahamenia C. Gabriel   
 License Number : 413
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Gene's Residential Care Facility        
Mailing Address : 607 W. Sumter St.        
                : Florence, SC       
       Location : 607 W. Sumter St.             
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 662-2529
          Owner : Gene Jones                         
  Administrator : Gene Jones               
 License Number : 431
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Kelly's Community Care Home - Unit #l   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 308            
                : Florence, SC  29503
       Location : 611 W. Palmetto St.           
                : Florence, SC  2950l
          Phone : 667-1747
          Owner : Fred & Mary S. Kelly               
  Administrator : Mary L. Kelly            
 License Number : 136
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Kelly's Community Home - Unit #2        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 308            
                : Florence, SC  29503
       Location : 751 West Evans St.            
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 665-9503
          Owner : Mary L. & Fred Kelly               
  Administrator : Mary L. Kelly            
 License Number : 138
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Kelly's Community Home - Unit #3        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 308            
                : Florence, SC  29503
       Location : 601 West Palmetto             
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 665-9503
          Owner : Mary S. & Fred Kelly               
  Administrator : Mary L. Kelly            
 License Number : 139
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Kelly's Community Home - Unit #4        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 308            
                : Scranton, SC  29503
       Location : Hwy. 52                       
                : Scranton, SC  29591
          Phone : 389-9022
          Owner : Mary Kelly                         
  Administrator : Mary L. Kelly            
 License Number : 375
    No. of Beds :  25











       Facility : Manor House Residential Care Facility   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 9              
                : Scranton, SC  29591
       Location : High Hill Rd.                 
                : Scranton, SC  29591
          Phone : 389-9201
          Owner : HCC Assoiates                      
  Administrator : Marie Fleming            
 License Number : 224
    No. of Beds :  30











       Facility : Mills Olanta House, Ltd.                
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 595            
                : Olanta, SC  29114
       Location : Hwy. 30l North                
                : Olanta, SC  29114
          Phone : 665-7890
          Owner : William C. & Virginia M. Mills     
  Administrator : Virginia M. Mills        
 License Number : 35 
    No. of Beds :  48











       Facility : Mills Rest Home                         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 429            
                : Florence, SC       
       Location : 430 W. Cheves St.             
                : Florence, SC  2950l
          Phone : 667-0138
          Owner : Mills Olanta House Ltd.            
  Administrator : Virginia Mills           
 License Number : 20 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Olanta Residential Care Center          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 625            
                : Olanta, SC       
       Location : Augusta St.                   
                : Olanta, SC  29114
          Phone : 396-4444
          Owner : HCC Associates                     
  Administrator : Connie Floyd             
 License Number : 369
    No. of Beds :  80











       Facility : Presbyterian Home of South Carolina     
Mailing Address : 2380 Lucas St.           
                : Florence, SC       
       Location : 2380 Lucas St.                
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 665-2222
          Owner : Presbyterian Home of S. C.         
  Administrator : Peggy Andrews            
 License Number : 242
    No. of Beds :  40











       Facility : Theresa's Rest Home                     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 429            
                : Florence, SC       
       Location : 107 N. Franklin St.           
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 667-1304
          Owner : Mills Olanta House, Ltd.           
  Administrator : Virginia M. Mills        
 License Number : 120
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Woodard's Community Care Home           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 255            
                : Florence, SC  29503
       Location : 615 W. Evans St.              
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 662-0514
          Owner : Marcola Woodard                    
  Administrator : Marcola Woodard          
 License Number : 301
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Woodard's Community Care Home #2        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 255            
                : Florence, SC  29503
       Location : 810 W. Evans St.              
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 665-4928
          Owner : Marcola Woodard                    
  Administrator : Marcola Woodard          
 License Number : 198
    No. of Beds :   8







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FLORENCE - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                FLORENCE - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Florence Convalescent Center            
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 134                
                : Florence, SC  29501
       Location : Route 8                       
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 669-4374
          Owner : Florence Conv. Center, Inc.             
  Administrator : Genevieve M. Lawrence    
 License Number : ICF91 
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   88

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FLORENCE - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    FLORENCE - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Commander Nursing Center                
Mailing Address : Rt. 3, Box 37               
                : Florence, SC  29501
       Location : Pamplico Hwy.                 
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 669-3502
          Owner : Commander Health Care Facilities, Inc.  
  Administrator : Joe M. Commander         
 License Number : NCF233
   Beds - Total :  133
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  133
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Faith Nursing Home                      
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 690               
                : Florence, SC  29503
       Location : 617 W. Marion St.             
                : Florence, SC  29503
          Phone : 662-5148
          Owner : V and M Corporation                     
  Administrator : Bonnie W. Cockfield      
 License Number : NCF465
   Beds - Total :  148
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :  104





       Facility : Folk Nursing Center                     
Mailing Address : Rt. 9, Box 64               
                : Florence, SC  29501
       Location : Pamplico Hwy.                 
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 669-4403
          Owner : Commander Health Care Facilities, Inc.  
  Administrator : Charles S. Commander     
 License Number : NCF453
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : HealthSouth Rehabilitation Center       
Mailing Address : 722 S. Dargan St.           
                : Florence, SC  29501
       Location : 722 South Dargan Street       
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 669-8891
          Owner : HealthSouth Rehabilitation Center, Inc. 
  Administrator : Robert E. Thomson        
 License Number : NCF438
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   88
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Heritage Home of Florence, Inc.         
Mailing Address : 515 S. Warley St.           
                : Florence, SC  29501
       Location : 515 S. Warley St.             
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 662-4573
          Owner : Heritage Home of Florence, Inc.         
  Administrator : Shewin D. Welch          
 License Number : NCF450
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Honorage Nursing Care                   
Mailing Address : 1207 N. Cashua Rd.          
                : Florence, SC  29501
       Location : 1207 N. Cashua Rd.            
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 665-6172
          Owner : Honorage Nrsing Care of Flor. S.C., Inc 
  Administrator : Howard W. Clark          
 License Number : NCF329
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Lake City-Scranton Convalescent Center  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 9                 
                : Scranton, SC  29591
       Location : 9 Highhill Rd.                
                : Scranton, SC  29591
          Phone : 389-9201
          Owner : Village Green Convalescent Ctr., Inc.   
  Administrator : William W. Mitchell      
 License Number : NCF419
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   74
     Beds - Icf :   14





       Facility : Presbyterian Home of S.C./Florence      
Mailing Address : 2350 Lucas St.              
                : Florence, SC  2950l
       Location : 2350 Lucas St.                
                : Florence, SC  2950l
          Phone : 665-2222
          Owner : Presbyterian Home of S. C.              
  Administrator : Peggy Andrews, RN        
 License Number : NCF420
   Beds - Total :   25
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   25
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FLORENCE - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                       
-DOC-
                       FLORENCE - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Florence General Hospital Senior Resource Center  
Mailing Address : 512 S Irby St.                
                : Florence, SC  29502
       Location : 512 South Irby Street         
                : Florence, SC  29502
          Phone : 667-3200
          Owner : Florence General Hospital          
  Administrator : Fred Schilling           
 License Number : ADC27 
   Participants :  30








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FLORENCE - LICENSED HOSPICES                          
-DOC-
                          FLORENCE - LICENSED HOSPICES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Hospice of the Pee Dee, Inc.                      
Mailing Address : 555 E Cheves St.              
                : Florence, SC  29503
       Location : 555 E. Cheves St.             
                : Florence, SC  29503
          Phone : 667-9312
          Owner : Hospice of the Pee Dee, Inc.       
  Administrator : Betsy Eddy               
 License Number : HOS14 
   Participants :   0







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FLORENCE - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                FLORENCE - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Clyde St. Home                          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3209              
                : Florence, SC  29502
       Location : 509 Clyde St.                 
                : Florence, SC  29502
          Phone : 669-3661
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Kenneth Ward             
 License Number : IMR102
   Beds - Total :   20
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   20





       Facility : Mulberry Park 301-307                   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3209              
                : Florence, SC  29502
       Location : 714 National Cemetery Rd.     
                : Florence, SC  29502
          Phone : 669-3661
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Ken Ward                 
 License Number : IMR141
   Beds - Total :  112
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :  112





       Facility : Pecan Lane Bldg. 201-205                
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3209              
                : Florence, SC  29502
       Location : 714 National Cemetary Rd.     
                : Florence, SC  29502
          Phone : 669-3661
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Kenneth Ward             
 License Number : IMR119
   Beds - Total :  160
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :  160



       Facility : Coit St. Community Residence            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3209              
                : Florence, SC  29502
       Location : 624 S. Coit Street            
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 669-3661
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Belinda Calcutt          
 License Number : M15 13
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Florence Community Residence            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3209              
                : Florence, SC  29502
       Location : 511 Clyde St.                 
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 669-3661
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Belinda Kaye Calcutt     
 License Number : M1525 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Graham St. Community Residence          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3209              
                : Florence, SC  29502
       Location : 306 Graham St.                
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 669-3661
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Belinda Kaye Calcutt     
 License Number : M1526 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Pamplico Road Residence                 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3209              
                : Florence, SC  29502
       Location : 801 Pamplico Road             
                : Florence, SC  29501
          Phone : 669-7661
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Belinda Kaye Calcutt     
 License Number : M1512 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Sherwood Community Residence 9A         
Mailing Address : PO Box 3209/Flo             
                : Lake City, SC  29502
       Location : 9 A Sherwood St.              
                : Lake City, SC  29560
          Phone : 669-3661
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Belinda Kaye Calcutt     
 License Number : M1557 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Sherwood Community Residence 9B         
Mailing Address : PO Box 3209/Flo             
                : Lake City, SC  29502
       Location : 9 B Sherwood St.              
                : Lake City, SC  29560
          Phone : 669-3661
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Belinda Kaye Calcutt     
 License Number : M1558 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Georgetown County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GEORGETOWN - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS              
-DOC-
              GEORGETOWN - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed community residential centers in Georgetown County.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Georgetown County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GEORGETOWN - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                   
-DOC-
                   GEORGETOWN - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Winyah Extended Care Center, Inc.       
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 8158              
                : Georgetown, SC  29440
       Location : 2715 South Island Rd.         
                : Georgetown, SC  29440
          Phone : 546-4123
          Owner : Winyah Extended Care Center, Inc.       
  Administrator : Grace B. Jones           
 License Number : NCF335
   Beds - Total :   84
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   42
     Beds - Icf :   42

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GEORGETOWN - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                      
-DOC-
                      GEORGETOWN - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Camp Baskerville Adult Day Care Center            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1188, Code-4        
                : Pawley's Is., SC  29585
       Location : US. 17 North                  
                : Pawley's Is., SC  29585
          Phone : 237-2847
          Owner : Episcopal Outreach of P.I., Inc.   
  Administrator : Antoine Campbell         
 License Number : ADC4  
   Participants :  20








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GEORGETOWN - LICENSED HOSPICES                         
-DOC-
                         GEORGETOWN - LICENSED HOSPICES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Hospice of Georgetown County,Inc.                 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1436                
                : Georgetown, SC  29442
       Location : 615 Huger Dr.                 
                : Georgetown, SC  29442
          Phone : 546-3410
          Owner : Hospice of Georgetown County, Inc. 
  Administrator : Brenda Stroup            
 License Number : HOS9  
   Participants :   0








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Georgetown
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                        Stroud Memorial Sheltered Care
                                 P.O. Box 216
                             Marietta, SC  29661
                                (803) 836-6381
                              Greenville County

Contact Person:...............................Earlene G. Jones, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....None
Residential capacity..........................25
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 3 buildings
Description of Units.................. 14 motel type rooms
Nursing home ......................... YES, Intermediate level
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Fenced-in, 24 hr attendant
Safety features of unit............... Grab bars in bathrooms, call button
Handicapped accommodations............ Accommodates persons with canes, walkers
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Upon request
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident Council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 50 yrs old minimum age
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. NO
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Medicaid recipients, straight rate
                                       private pay charges based on costs
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Must make other living arrangements
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pays for days in facility and the days
                                       bed is held
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as rent is paid and a request
                                       is made to hold the bed









INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREENVILLE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS              
-DOC-
              GREENVILLE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Autumn Care Taylors                     
Mailing Address : 402 W. Main St.          
                : Taylors, SC       
       Location : 402 West Main St.             
                : Taylors, SC  29687
          Phone : 268-1144
          Owner : Autumn Care Taylors                
  Administrator : Shirley B. Miller        
 License Number : 354
    No. of Beds :  44











       Facility : Bonner Kidd Home (Brick House)          
Mailing Address : Rt. 3, Box 535           
                : Simpsonville, SC  29681
       Location : Standing Springs Rd.          
                : Simpsonville, SC  29681
          Phone : 963-3438
          Owner : Greenville Cty Comm. on ADA        
  Administrator : Ralph C. Tallant         
 License Number : 244
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Bonner Kidd Home (White House)          
Mailing Address : Rt. 3, Box 535           
                : Simpsonville, SC       
       Location : Rt. 3, Box 535                
                : Simpsonville, SC  29681
          Phone : 963-3438
          Owner : Greenville Cty. Comm. on ADA       
  Administrator : Ralph C. Tallant         
 License Number : 414
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Carolina Retirement Center              
Mailing Address : 811 Laurens Rd.          
                : Greenville, SC       
       Location : 811 Laurens Road              
                : Greenville, SC  29607
          Phone : 271-0071
          Owner : Greenville Health Care, Inc.       
  Administrator : Carole K. Waynick        
 License Number : 169
    No. of Beds : 100











       Facility : E. M. Williams Community Care Home #1   
Mailing Address : PO Box 6025 Sta B        
                : Grnvile, SC  29606
       Location : 20 Harris St.                 
                : Grnvile, SC  29606
          Phone : 242-5997
          Owner : Jean Watts                         
  Administrator : Jean Watts               
 License Number : 88 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : E. M. Williams Community Care Home #2   
Mailing Address : PO Box 6025 Sta B        
                : Grnvile, SC  29606
       Location : 16 Howe St.                   
                : Grnvile, SC  29606
          Phone : 23348997
          Owner : Jean Watts & Elizabeth A. Hallums  
  Administrator : Elizabeth A. Hallums     
 License Number : 89 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Fountain Inn Community Residence        
Mailing Address : 105 Old Fairview Rd.     
                : Fountain Inn, SC       
       Location : 105 Old Fairview Rd.          
                : Fountain Inn, SC  29644
          Phone : 862-3206
          Owner : Greenville Assoc. for the Retarded 
  Administrator : Jean M. Knox             
 License Number : 236
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : Greenville Community Residence          
Mailing Address : 58 Cavalier Dr.          
                : Greenville, SC       
       Location : 58 Cavalier Dr.               
                : Greenville, SC  29607
          Phone : 277-0584
          Owner : Greenville Assoc. for the Retarded 
  Administrator : Bruce D. Anderson        
 License Number : 73 
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : Greenville Cty. Comm. on ADA/Detox Ctr. 
Mailing Address : 3336 Old Buncombe        
                : Grnvil, SC       
       Location : 3336 Old Buncombe Rd.         
                : Grnvil, SC  29609
          Phone : 235-8553
          Owner : Greenville Cty Comm on ADA         
  Administrator : Donella Inabinett        
 License Number : 27 
    No. of Beds :  27











       Facility : Greenville Retirement Center            
Mailing Address : 663 Rutherford Rd.       
                : Greenville, SC       
       Location : 663 Rutherford Rd.            
                : Greenville, SC  29609
          Phone : 233-2672
          Owner : Greenville Retirement Center Inc.  
  Administrator : Agnes D. Roe             
 License Number : 296
    No. of Beds :  74











       Facility : Greer Community Residence               
Mailing Address : 112 S. Bevly Lane        
                : Greer, SC       
       Location : 112 South Beverly Lane        
                : Greer, SC  29651
          Phone : 288-1907
          Owner : Greenville Assoc. for the Retarded 
  Administrator : Donald L. Shockley       
 License Number : 237
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : Gregory's Comm. Care Home #3            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 637            
                : Simpsonville, SC  29681
       Location : 1015 Fork Shoals Rd.          
                : Simpsonville, SC  29681
          Phone : 277-2269
          Owner : Joyce C. Gregory                   
  Administrator : Joyce C. Gregory         
 License Number : 433
    No. of Beds :  30











       Facility : Marian Parkins Community Residence      
Mailing Address : 100 Highlawn Ave.        
                : Greenville, SC       
       Location : 100 Highlawn Ave.             
                : Greenville, SC  29611
          Phone : 232-6350
          Owner : Greenville County MR Commission    
  Administrator : Janice Heiple            
 License Number : 234
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : O & J Sherman's Care Center             
Mailing Address : 120 Arlington Ave.       
                : Greenville, SC       
       Location : 120 Arlington Ave.            
                : Greenville, SC  29601
          Phone : 235-4936
          Owner : Mrs. Olise Sherman                 
  Administrator : Olise Sherman            
 License Number : 180
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Pendleton Manor                         
Mailing Address : 414 Summit Dr.           
                : Greenville, SC       
       Location : 414 Summit Dr.                
                : Greenville, SC  29609
          Phone : 271-7562
          Owner : Pendleton Manor, Inc.              
  Administrator : Roscoe E. Pendleton      
 License Number : 2  
    No. of Beds :  98











       Facility : Ridgeview Community Care Home, Inc.     
Mailing Address : 117 Chandler Rd.         
                : Greer, SC  29687
       Location : 117 Chandler Rd.              
                : Greer, SC  29687
          Phone : 877-8599
          Owner : Ridgeview Comm. Care Home, Inc.    
  Administrator : Pat Jewell               
 License Number : 439
    No. of Beds :  40











       Facility : Sherman's Boarding Home                 
Mailing Address : 111 Anderson St.         
                : Greenville, SC       
       Location : 111 Anderson St.              
                : Greenville, SC  29601
          Phone : 232-2524
          Owner : Mr. & Mrs. Jessie Sherman          
  Administrator : Olise Sherman            
 License Number : 361
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Stroud Memorial Sheltered Care (B & C)  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 216            
                : Marietta, SC       
       Location : Hwy. 276                      
                : Marietta, SC  29661
          Phone : 836-6381
          Owner : Stroud Memorial Hosp. Tax District 
  Administrator : Earlene G. Jones         
 License Number : 412
    No. of Beds :  20











       Facility : Wildwood Retreat                        
Mailing Address : 130 Woodville Rd.        
                : Pelzer, SC       
       Location : 130 Woodville Rd.             
                : Pelzer, SC  29669
          Phone : 243-9151
          Owner : Lester C. Caldwell                 
  Administrator : Mr. & Mrs. L. C. Caldwell
 License Number : 97 
    No. of Beds :  10







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREENVILLE - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES               
-DOC-
               GREENVILLE - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Fountain Inn Convalescent Home          
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 67                 
                : Fountain Inn, SC  29644
       Location : 501 Gulliver Street           
                : Fountain Inn, SC  29644
          Phone : 862-2554
          Owner : Hughes Enterprises,Inc.                 
  Administrator : Alan L. Hughes           
 License Number : ICF130
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   44





       Facility : Oakmont West                            
Mailing Address : 600 Sulphur Sprgs Rd.       
                : Greenville, SC  29611
       Location : 600 Sulphur Springs Rd.       
                : Greenville, SC  29611
          Phone : 246-2721
          Owner : Health Care & Retirement Corp of America
  Administrator : David S. Harper          
 License Number : ICF174
   Beds - Total :  125
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :  125





       Facility : Palmetto Convalescent Center, Inc.      
Mailing Address : 721 W. Curtis St.           
                : Simpsonville, SC  29681
       Location : 721 W. Curtis St.             
                : Simpsonville, SC  29681
          Phone : 967-7191
          Owner : Palmetto Convalescent Center Inc.       
  Administrator : Joseph D. Schofield      
 License Number : ICF108
   Beds - Total :   42
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   42





       Facility : Stroud Memorial ICF                     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 216               
                : Marietta, SC  29661
       Location : Hwy. 276                      
                : Marietta, SC  29661
          Phone : 836-6381
          Owner : Stroud Memorial Hospital Tax District   
  Administrator : Earline G. Jones         
 License Number : ICF57 
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   44

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREENVILLE - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                   
-DOC-
                   GREENVILLE - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Grady H. Hipp Nursing Center            
Mailing Address : 611 Rutherford Rd.          
                : Greenville, SC  29609
       Location : 661 Rutherford Rd.            
                : Greenville, SC  29609
          Phone : 232-2442
          Owner : Grady H. Hipp Nursing Center            
  Administrator : Agnes D. Roe             
 License Number : NCF172
   Beds - Total :  112
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  112
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Greer Health Care Inc.                  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1148              
                : Greer, SC  29652
       Location : Chandler Rd.                  
                : Greer, SC  29652
          Phone : 879-7474
          Owner : Greer Health Care Inc.                  
  Administrator : Nekoda A. McCauley       
 License Number : NCF393
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  132
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Hillhaven Health Care                   
Mailing Address : 411 Ansel St.               
                : Greenville, SC  29601
       Location : 411 Ansel St.                 
                : Greenville, SC  29601
          Phone : 232-5368
          Owner : NHE/South Carolina, Inc.                
  Administrator : Jane B. Owings           
 License Number : NCF319
   Beds - Total :  129
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   78
     Beds - Icf :   51





       Facility : Oakmont East Nursing Center             
Mailing Address : 601 Sulphur Spgs. Rd.       
                : Greenville, SC  29611
       Location : 601 Sulphur Springs Rd.       
                : Greenville, SC  29611
          Phone : 246-2721
          Owner : Health Care & Retirement Corp of America
  Administrator : Michael H. McBride       
 License Number : NCF444
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  132
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Oakmont North Nursing Center            
Mailing Address : 6 Hart St.                  
                : Travelers Rest, SC  29690
       Location : 6 Hart St.                    
                : Travelers Rest, SC  29690
          Phone : 246-2721
          Owner : Health Care & Retirement Corp of America
  Administrator : Christine M. Wechsler    
 License Number : NCF445
   Beds - Total :   22
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   22
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Piedmont Nursing Center Inc.            
Mailing Address : 809 Laurens Rd.             
                : Greenville, SC  29607
       Location : 809 Laurens Rd.               
                : Greenville, SC  29607
          Phone : 232-8196
          Owner : Greenville Health Care Inc.             
  Administrator : Thomas W. Penley         
 License Number : NCF437
   Beds - Total :   79
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :   35





       Facility : Resthaven Geriatric Center Inc.         
Mailing Address : 423 Vardry                  
                : Greenville, SC  29601
       Location : 423 Vardry                    
                : Greenville, SC  29601
          Phone : 242-4730
          Owner : Resthaven Geriatric Center, Inc.        
  Administrator : Joan T. King             
 License Number : NCF156
   Beds - Total :   30
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   30
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Roger Huntington Nursing Center         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1149              
                : Greer, SC  29652
       Location : 313 Memorial Drive            
                : Greer, SC  29652
          Phone : 879-0130
          Owner : Greenville Hospital System              
  Administrator : Michael W. Massey        
 License Number : NCF210
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Rolling Green Health Care Facility      
Mailing Address : 1 Hoke Smith Blvd.          
                : Greenville, SC  29615
       Location : l Hoke Smith Blvd.            
                : Greenville, SC  29615
          Phone : 297-0558
          Owner : The Greenville Baptist Retirement Comm. 
  Administrator : William Derrick Moore    
 License Number : NCF456
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Sentry Care Simpsonville Inc.           
Mailing Address : 807 S. E. Main St.          
                : Simpsonville, SC  29681
       Location : 807 S. E. Main St.            
                : Simpsonville, SC  29681
          Phone : 963-6069
          Owner : Sentry Care Simpsonville, Inc.          
  Administrator : Debbie Lollis            
 License Number : NCF454
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Westside Health Care                    
Mailing Address : 8 N. Texas Ave.             
                : Greenville, SC  29611
       Location : 8 N. Texas Ave.               
                : Greenville, SC  29611
          Phone : 295-1331
          Owner : Westside Health Care, Inc.              
  Administrator : Thelma James             
 License Number : NCF457
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREENVILLE - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                      
-DOC-
                      GREENVILLE - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Greenville General Hospital Adult Day Care        
Mailing Address : 701 Grove Rd.                 
                : Greenville, SC  29605
       Location : 100 Mallard St.               
                : Greenville, SC  29605
          Phone : 242-8689
          Owner : Greenville Hospital System         
  Administrator : Maxine Moore             
 License Number : ADC21 
   Participants :  50











       Facility : Greenville Urban League Adult Day Care Center     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 10161               
                : Greenville, SC  29603
       Location : 100 Maloy Street              
                : Greenville, SC  29611
          Phone : 233-3118
          Owner : Greenville Urban League, Inc.      
  Administrator : Jannie P. Cason          
 License Number : ADC7  
   Participants :  28











       Facility : Orchard Park Adult Day Care Center                
Mailing Address : 75A Orchard Pk                
                : Greenville, SC  296l5
       Location : 75 A Orchard Park Drive       
                : Greenville, SC  296l5
          Phone : 297-620l
          Owner : Orchard Park ADC Center, Inc.      
  Administrator : Julie Coates             
 License Number : ADC33 
   Participants :  40








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREENVILLE - LICENSED HOSPICES                         
-DOC-
                         GREENVILLE - LICENSED HOSPICES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Greenville Hospital System Hospice                
Mailing Address : 701 Grove Rd.                 
                : Greenville, SC  29605
       Location : 100 Mallard St.               
                : Greenville, SC  29605
          Phone : 242-8020
          Owner : Greenville Memorial Hospital       
  Administrator : Sharon Maynard           
 License Number : HOS5  
   Participants :   0








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREENVILLE - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION               
-DOC-
               GREENVILLE - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Ridge Road Residence                    
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 17007-B           
                : Greenville, SC  29606
       Location : Rt. 4 Ridgeroad               
                : Greenville, SC  29606
          Phone : 297-0712
          Owner : Greenville Cty. MR Commission           
  Administrator : Miriam W. Balckwell, RN  
 License Number : IMR147
   Beds - Total :   16
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   16

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                           Greenwood Methodist Home
                              1110 Marshall Road
                             Greenwood, SC  29646
                                (803) 227-1220
                               Greenwood County

Contact Person:...............................Ted R. Morton, Jr., Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....12.5%
Residential capacity..........................158
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 35 Heritage Hills
Description of Units.................. Garden apartments, duplexes, detached
                                       houses
Nursing home ......................... YES, Priority to 102 bed skilled
facility
Units purchased or rented............. Purchased
Security provisions .................. Local police protection, plans for 
                                       fence, future emergency call system
Safety features of unit............... Smoke detectors, fire extinguishers
Handicapped accommodations............ ramps, grab bars in bathrooms, building 
                                       access wheelchairs
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Personal conference
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' Councils

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Be able to live independently
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Based on operating costs
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Funds available to assist residents
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Responsible for the applicable nursing 
                                       care costs
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as they continue to pay monthly 
                                       maintenance fee







INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.





-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREENWOOD - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               GREENWOOD - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Brewer Boarding Home                    
Mailing Address : 301 N. Hosp. St.         
                : Greenwood, SC       
       Location : 301 North Hospital St.        
                : Greenwood, SC  29646
          Phone : 223-6741
          Owner : Brewer Boarding Home, Inc.         
  Administrator : David Lewis              
 License Number : 193
    No. of Beds :  28











       Facility : Greenwood Community Residence           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3004           
                : Greenwood, SC  29648
       Location : South Main St.                
                : Greenwood, SC  29646
          Phone : 227-2441
          Owner : Piedmont Multi-County MR Board     
  Administrator : Linda Gault              
 License Number : 199
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Loving Care Community Home              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 285            
                : Greenwood, SC       
       Location : 949 S. Main St.               
                : Greenwood, SC  29646
          Phone : 229-6144
          Owner : Morris & Linda Ranson              
  Administrator : Linda Ranson             
 License Number : 158
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Marion P. Carnell Community Residence   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3004           
                : Ware Shoals, SC       
       Location : 36 Saluda Ave.                
                : Ware Shoals, SC  29646
          Phone : 456-2294
          Owner : Piedmont Multi-County MR Board     
  Administrator : Linda Gault              
 License Number : 55 
    No. of Beds :   9







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Greenwood County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREENWOOD - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                   
-DOC-
                   GREENWOOD - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Greenwood Nursing Home, Inc.            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3109              
                : Greenwood, SC  29648
       Location : 437 E. Cainbridge Ave.        
                : Greenwood, SC  29648
          Phone : 223-1950
          Owner : Greenwood Nursing Home, Inc.            
  Administrator : Effie N. Dorn            
 License Number : NCF333
   Beds - Total :  108
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   89
     Beds - Icf :   19





       Facility : Nursing Ctr. of Greenwood Methodist Home
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1203              
                : Greenwood, SC  29648
       Location : 1110 Marshall Rd.             
                : Greenwood, SC  29648
          Phone : 227-6655
          Owner : Board of Trust of Greenwood Meth. Home  
  Administrator : Ted R. Morton, Jr.       
 License Number : NCF304
   Beds - Total :  102
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  102
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Greenwood County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREENWOOD - LICENSED HOSPICES                         
-DOC-
                         GREENWOOD - LICENSED HOSPICES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Hospice of Greenwood, Inc.                        
Mailing Address : Spring St.                    
                : Greenwood, SC  29646
       Location : Spring St.                    
                : Greenwood, SC  29646
          Phone : 227-4820
          Owner : Hospice of Greenwood, Inc.         
  Administrator : Nancy Garrett            
 License Number : HOS10 
   Participants :   0







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GREENWOOD - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                GREENWOOD - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Dr. Paul Baker Pritchard, Jr. Comm. Res.
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3004              
                : Greenwood, SC  29646
       Location : 53 S. Greenwood Ave.          
                : Greenwood, SC  29692
          Phone : 223-4579
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Thomas F. Kirby, Ph.D.   
 License Number : M15 76
   Beds - Total :   12
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   12





       Facility : J. Felton Burton Community Residence    
Mailing Address : 308 Jenkins Spring Rd.      
                : Greenwood, SC  29646
       Location : 308 Jenkins Spring Rd.        
                : Greenwood, SC  29646
          Phone : 223-8515
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Thomas F. Kirby          
 License Number : M15 72
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Hampton County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HAMPTON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                HAMPTON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Mary Allen Residential Care             
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 187            
                : Brunson, SC  29911
       Location : Baggott St.                   
                : Brunson, SC  29911
          Phone : 632-3009
          Owner : Mary Allen                         
  Administrator : Mary Allen               
 License Number : 83 
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Ruth's Residential Care                 
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 33            
                : Fairfax, SC       
       Location : Rt. 2, Box 33                 
                : Fairfax, SC  29827
          Phone : 632-3884
          Owner : Ruth Johnson                       
  Administrator : Ruth Johnson             
 License Number : 267
    No. of Beds :   5







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HAMPTON - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                HAMPTON - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Stiles M. Harper Convalescent Center    
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 386               
                : Estill, SC  29918
       Location : 301 S. Liberty St.            
                : Estill, SC  29918
          Phone : 625-3852
          Owner : Hampton General Board of Directors      
  Administrator : Athalene B. Mole         
 License Number : ICF65 
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   44

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HAMPTON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    HAMPTON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed skilled nursing care facilities in Hampton
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Hampton County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Hampton
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                               Covenant Towers
                            5001 Little River Road
                           Myrtle Beach, SC  29577
                                (803) 449-2484
                                 Horry County

Contact Person:...............................Mack Brown, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....43%
Residential capacity..........................200
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 160
Description of Units.................. 5 story mid-rise
Nursing home ......................... 31 residential care beds available,
                                       certificate of need submitted for 22
                                       intermediate and skilled beds
Units purchased or rented............. Purchase
Security provisions .................. 24hr security personnel, 24hr licensed
                                       nurses
Safety features of unit............... Intercom, emergency pull in each condo,
                                       sprinkler system, smoke and fire
                                       detectors, bathrooms safety equipped,
Handicapped accommodations............ Elevators, all units and all common 
                                       areas handicap equipped
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Upon request
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident committees/council and
                                       Homeowners' Association
                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Minimum age 55
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES, as specified by Homeowners' Assoc.
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Board of Directors
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Circumstances reviewed by Board of 
                                       Homeowners' Association
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay a reduced service fee on condo per 
                                       diem for other services
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Indefinite
                              Myrtle Beach Manor
                           9201 North Kings Highway
                           Myrtle Beach, SC  29577
                                (803) 449-5283
                                 Horry County

Contact Person:...............................Juana C. Newber, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....75%
Residential capacity..........................139

                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 60 apartments
Description of Units.................. Two story building
Nursing home ......................... YES, 49 skilled nursing beds, 30 bed 
                                                  residential unit
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Staff 24hrs a day
Safety features of unit............... Hand rails, sprinkler, emergency call
                                       and lights
Handicapped accommodations............ Ramps, wide doors
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  If requested
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Monthly meetings

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Health status
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Based on type of apartment desired
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Other placement is located for
                                       resident
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Responsible for all charges
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as they pay for both










INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HORRY - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                 
-DOC-
                 HORRY - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Bellamy's Community Care Home           
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 32            
                : N. Myrt Bch, SC  29582
       Location : Rt. l, Box 32, Hwy. #9        
                : N. Myrt Bch, SC  29582
          Phone : 399-3993
          Owner : Lela G. Bellamy                    
  Administrator : Lela G. Bellamy          
 License Number : 382
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Countryside Community Care Home         
Mailing Address : P. O.Box 184             
                : Longs, SC  29568
       Location : 800 Hwy. 9 East               
                : Longs, SC  29568
          Phone : 399-6378
          Owner : Helen Reynolds                     
  Administrator : Helen Reynolds           
 License Number : 269
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Myrtle Beach Manor                      
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 7337           
                : Myrtle Beach, SC       
       Location : Hwy. 17 N                     
                : Myrtle Beach, SC  29577
          Phone : 449-5283
          Owner : Forum Health Partners I-A, Ltd.Part
  Administrator : Juana C. Newber          
 License Number : 232
    No. of Beds :  30











       Facility : Pinedale Residential Care               
Mailing Address : 120l Creel St.           
                : Conway, SC       
       Location : 1201 Creel St.                
                : Conway, SC  29526
          Phone : 248-2087
          Owner : We CARP, Inc.                      
  Administrator : Dale Hudson              
 License Number : 278
    No. of Beds :  72











       Facility : Waccamaw Acres Community Care Home      
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 184            
                : Longs, SC  29568
       Location : 620 Hwy. 9 East               
                : Longs, SC  29568
          Phone : 399-6378
          Owner : Helen P. Reynolds                  
  Administrator : Helen P. Reynolds        
 License Number : 323
    No. of Beds :   6







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HORRY - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                 
-DOC-
                 HORRY - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Sandstrom Home, ICF                     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 7187              
                : Myrtle Beach, SC  29577
       Location : 6309-11 Hawthorne Lane        
                : Myrtle Beach, SC  29577
          Phone : 449-5615
          Owner : Conway Hospital Inc.                    
  Administrator : Grace Sandstrom          
 License Number : ICF176
   Beds - Total :   30
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   30

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HORRY - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                     
-DOC-
                     HORRY - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Conway Nursing Center                   
Mailing Address : 3300 Fourth Ave.            
                : Conway, SC  29526
       Location : 3300 Fourth Ave.              
                : Conway, SC  29526
          Phone : 248-5728
          Owner : Conway Nursing Center, Inc.             
  Administrator : Melanie H. Connelly      
 License Number : NCF278
   Beds - Total :  130
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  130
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Covenant Towers Health Care             
Mailing Address : 500l Little River Rd.       
                : Myrtle Beach, SC  29577
       Location : 500l Little River Rd.         
                : Myrtle Beach, SC  29577
          Phone : 449-2484
          Owner : Covenant Towers Homeowners Assoc.       
  Administrator : Mack Brown               
 License Number : NCF469
   Beds - Total :   30
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   30
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Loris Hospital Extended Care Facility   
Mailing Address : 3212 Casey St.              
                : Loris, SC  29569
       Location : 3212 Casey St.                
                : Loris, SC  29569
          Phone : 756-4011
          Owner : Loris Comm. Hosp. Extended Care Facility
  Administrator : Frank M. Watts           
 License Number : NCF207
   Beds - Total :   40
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   40
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Myrtle Beach Manor                      
Mailing Address : 920l N. Kings Hwy.          
                : Myrtle Beach, SC  29577
       Location : 9201 N. Kings Hwy.            
                : Myrtle Beach, SC  29577
          Phone : 449-5283
          Owner : Forum Group, Inc.                       
  Administrator : Juana C. Newber          
 License Number : NCF410
   Beds - Total :   50
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   50
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Horry County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HORRY - LICENSED HOSPICES                           
-DOC-
                           HORRY - LICENSED HOSPICES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Mercy Hospice of Horry County                     
Mailing Address : 1101 5th Ave.                 
                : Conway, SC  29526
       Location : 1101 5th Ave.                 
                : Conway, SC  29526
          Phone : 248-7323
          Owner : Mercy Hospice of Horry Cty, Inc.   
  Administrator : Charles L. Brown         
 License Number : HOS4  
   Participants :   0








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Jasper County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JASPER - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                JASPER - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed community residential centers in Jasper County.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Jasper County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JASPER - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                     
-DOC-
                     JASPER - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Ridgecrest Convalescent Center, Inc.    
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1570              
                : Ridgeland, SC  29936
       Location : Hwy. 278                      
                : Ridgeland, SC  29936
          Phone : 726-5581
          Owner : Ridgecrest Convalescent Center          
  Administrator : Faye C. Cleland          
 License Number : NCF379
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Jasper County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED HOSPICES                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED HOSPICES
   Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed hospices in this county.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Jasper
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Kershaw County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
KERSHAW - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                KERSHAW - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Dekalb Street Community Care            
Mailing Address : 707 Dekalb St.           
                : Camden, SC       
       Location : 707 Dekalb St.                
                : Camden, SC  29020
          Phone : 425-4727
          Owner : Buster & Gail Ledell               
  Administrator : Buster Ledell            
 License Number : 398
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Flowers Residential Care Facility       
Mailing Address : Rt. 3, Box 413           
                : Lugoff, SC       
       Location : Rt. 3, Box 4l3                
                : Lugoff, SC  29078
          Phone : 438-2654
          Owner : Mary Flowers                       
  Administrator : Mary Flowers             
 License Number : 297
    No. of Beds :   2











       Facility : Friendship Community Care Home          
Mailing Address : 298 Doby St.             
                : Camden, SC       
       Location : 298 Doby St.                  
                : Camden, SC  29020
          Phone : 432-5329
          Owner : Shirley Campbell                   
  Administrator : Shirley Campbell         
 License Number : 107
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : Wood & Wood Community Res. Care         
Mailing Address : Rt. 3, Box 206           
                : Elgin, SC       
       Location : Rt. 3, Box 206                
                : Elgin, SC  29045
          Phone : 438-3022
          Owner : Johnnie T. & Theresa M. Wood       
  Administrator : Theresa M. Wood          
 License Number : 177
    No. of Beds :  10







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Kershaw County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
KERSHAW - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    KERSHAW - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : A. Sam Karesh Long Term Care Center     
Mailing Address : 1315 Roberts St.            
                : Camden, SC  29020
       Location : 1315 Roberts St.              
                : Camden, SC  29020
          Phone : 432-4311
          Owner : Kershaw County Memorial Hospital        
  Administrator : Linwood H. Young         
 License Number : NCF313
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Kershaw County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
KERSHAW - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                 
-DOC-
                 KERSHAW - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Camden I Group Home                     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817, Cola        
                : Camden, SC  29230
       Location : 975 Wateree Blvd.             
                : Camden, SC  29020
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Kershaw Special Housing Inc.            
  Administrator : Risley E. Linder         
 License Number : M1540 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Camden II Group Home                    
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817, Cola        
                : Camden, SC  29230
       Location : 975 Wateree Blvd.             
                : Camden, SC  29020
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Kershaw Special Housing Inc.            
  Administrator : Risley E. Linder         
 License Number : M1541 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                          Lancaster Manor Apartments
                            201 Chesterfield Ave.
                             Lancaster, SC  29720
                                (803) 286-4453
                               Lancaster County

Contact Person:...............................Terri S. Murrow, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....Information unavailable
Residential capacity..........................66
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 66 apartments
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Security personnel available
Safety features of unit............... Alarm system, smoke detectors,
                                       Sprinkler system, entrance locked
                                       Courtesy emergency alarm
Handicapped accommodations............ Altered closets, appliances, bath
Visitor tour available................ Only with consent of management and
                                       occupant of unit
Financial soundness information shared:  N/A
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Rules and regulations submitted to 
                                       tenant

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Low income, disabled or handicapped
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Based on income less allowable
                                       medical deduction
Refund method outlined in contract.... Information unavailable
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Subsidized housing
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Responsibilities limited to length
                                       of occupancy and damage charges
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Information unavailable









INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LANCASTER - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               LANCASTER - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Fran's Community Care Home              
Mailing Address : 212 E. Barr St.          
                : Lancaster, SC       
       Location : 212 E. Barr St.               
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
          Phone : 285-9645
          Owner : Frances D. Funderburk              
  Administrator : Fran D. Funderburk       
 License Number : 343
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Fran's Residential Care Facility        
Mailing Address : 901 Chestfld Ave.        
                : Lancaster, SC       
       Location : 901 Chesterfield Ave.         
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
          Phone : 285-9900
          Owner : Teresa Hicks                       
  Administrator : Teresa Hicks             
 License Number : 248
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Fran's Residential Care Facility #3     
Mailing Address : 300 Reece Rd.            
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
       Location : 300 Reece Rd.                 
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
          Phone : 286-0804
          Owner : Frances D. Funderburk              
  Administrator : Frances D. Funderburk    
 License Number : 442
    No. of Beds :  24











       Facility : Mildred's Community Care Home           
Mailing Address : Rt. 3, Box 113           
                : Heath Springs, SC       
       Location : Rt. 3, Box 113                
                : Heath Springs, SC  29058
          Phone : 283-8782
          Owner : Mildred M. Fletcher                
  Administrator : Mildred M. Fletcher      
 License Number : 388
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Shannon's Rest Home                     
Mailing Address : 605 Chestfld Ave.        
                : Lancaster, SC       
       Location : 605 Chesterfield Ave.         
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
          Phone : 285-5423
          Owner : J. A. Shannon & G. S. Jenkins      
  Administrator : Gloria S. Jenkins        
 License Number : 112
    No. of Beds :  10







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Lancaster County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LANCASTER - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                   
-DOC-
                   LANCASTER - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Lancaster County Care Center            
Mailing Address : Rt. 10, Box 379             
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
       Location : Rt. 10, Box 379               
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
          Phone : 285-7907
          Owner : Lancaster County                        
  Administrator : Donald K. Clary          
 License Number : NCF448
   Beds - Total :  110
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :   66





       Facility : Marion Sims Nursing Center              
Mailing Address : 800 W. Meeting St.          
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
       Location : 800 W. Meeting St.            
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
          Phone : 286-1464
          Owner : Elliott White Springs Hospital, Inc.    
  Administrator : Dace W. Jones, Jr.       
 License Number : NCF412
   Beds - Total :  111
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  111
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Lancaster County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LANCASTER - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                LANCASTER - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : The Nancy J. McConnell Home             
Mailing Address : Plantation Rd.              
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
       Location : Plantation Rd.                
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
          Phone : 286-5727
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Danny Hinson             
 License Number : M15 75
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : The Tom Mangum Home                     
Mailing Address : Plantation Rd.              
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
       Location : Plantation Rd.                
                : Lancaster, SC  29720
          Phone : 286-5771
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Danny Hinson             
 License Number : M15 74
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

              Frampton Hall/Presbyterian Home of South Carolina
                               N. Broad Street
                              Clinton, SC  29325
                                (803) 833-0386
                                Laurens County

Contact Person:...............................Rev. Samuel N. Thomas, Sr, Dir.
Proportion of residents from other states:....Two of total population
Residential capacity..........................100
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 77
Description of Units.................. 41 rooms and 36 apartments
Nursing home ......................... Infirmary care within our system
Units purchased or rented............. Both
Security provisions .................. Maintenance staff during day and
                                       security patrol at night
Safety features of unit............... 2-way intercom with nursing station,
                                       smoke alarms
Handicapped accommodations............ Ground level, ramps
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Individual conferences, info. sessions
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' Council
                                       
                                       

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Able to care for self, 65yrs old, 
                                       member of Presbyterian Church, USA,
                                       ambulatory
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Board of Trustees via a normal 
                                       budgetary/accounting process
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Subsidized by corporation
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Remains financially responsible to the 
                                       home
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ 30 days

                     Presbyterian Home of South Carolina
                                Hwy. 56 North
                              Clinton, SC  29325
                                (803) 833-5190
                                Laurens County

Contact Person:...............................Joann N. Young, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....Very small percentage
Residential capacity..........................143
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 143
Description of Units.................. 15 detached houses, 71 residential care 
                                       building
Nursing home ......................... YES, 44 beds
Units purchased or rented............. Monthly fee
Security provisions .................. Department of Health and Environmental 
                                       Control standards
Safety features of unit............... Same as above
Handicapped accommodations............ Same as above
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Newsletter, Director Public Relations
                                         Admissions Office
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' Council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 65 yrs or older, members of 
                                       Presbyterian Church USA given first
                                       consideration, ambulatory, able to care
                                       for self
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Determined by Board Directors
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Subsidized by endowment
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Daily charge
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Depends on physician's recommendation
                   Martha Franks Baptist Retirement Center
                             1 Martha Franks Dr.
                              Laurens, SC  29360
                                (803) 984-4541
                                Laurens County

Contact Person:...............................J. Thomas Garrett, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....13%
Residential capacity..........................166
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 2 buildings
Description of Units.................. 76 dormitory rooms, 24 apartments
Nursing home ......................... YES, 44 skilled beds
Units purchased or rented............. Both
Security provisions .................. Proper staff/resident ratio
Safety features of unit............... Smoke alarms, sprinklers, meet smoke 
                                       and inflammable requirements
Handicapped accommodations............ Passages wheelchair accessible, 
                                       handicap designed bathrooms
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Private conversation with 
                                         administrator or director
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' Council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 65 yrs or older
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Board of Trustees after finance 
                                       committee reviews
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Re-evaluate residents' financial status 
                                       to determine what he/she is able to pay
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Fees based on what resident is able to 
                                       pay
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Determined by physician's evaluation








INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LAURENS - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                LAURENS - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Beasley's Boarding Home                 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 242            
                : Laurens, SC       
       Location : 108 Beasley St.               
                : Laurens, SC  29360
          Phone : 984-7113
          Owner : C.D. Beasley/L.S. Beasley          
  Administrator : Lucinda S. Beasley       
 License Number : 340
    No. of Beds :  46











       Facility : Bridgeway Community Residential Care    
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 821            
                : Laurens, SC  29360
       Location : Hwy. 221 South                
                : Laurens, SC  29360
          Phone : 682-5882
          Owner : Community Health Services, Inc.    
  Administrator : Mary Serna               
 License Number : 370
    No. of Beds :  24











       Facility : Frampton Hall                           
Mailing Address : N. Broad St.             
                : Clinton, SC       
       Location : N. Broad St.                  
                : Clinton, SC  29325
          Phone : 833-0386
          Owner : Presbyterian Home of S. C., Inc.   
  Administrator : Samuel N. Thomas         
 License Number : 13 
    No. of Beds :  42











       Facility : Laurens Cty Memorial Home for the Aged  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 638            
                : Laurens, SC  29360
       Location : Rt. 2                         
                : Laurens, SC  29360
          Phone : 682-2322
          Owner : Laurens Cty Mem Home for Aged, Inc.
  Administrator : Sharon Luciani           
 License Number : 316
    No. of Beds :  38











       Facility : Martha Franks Baptist Retirement Center 
Mailing Address : 1 Mrtha Frks Dr.         
                : Laurens, SC  29360
       Location : 1 Martha Franks Drive         
                : Laurens, SC  29360
          Phone : 984-4541
          Owner : S. C. Baptist Ministries etc., Inc.
  Administrator : J. Thomas Garrett        
 License Number : 360
    No. of Beds :  82











       Facility : Presbyterian Home of S. C.              
Mailing Address : Hwy. 56 N.               
                : Clinton, SC       
       Location : S. C. Hwy. #56 North          
                : Clinton, SC  29325
          Phone : 833-5190
          Owner : Presbyterian Home of S. C.         
  Administrator : Joan V. Young            
 License Number : 14 
    No. of Beds :  71







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Laurens County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LAURENS - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    LAURENS - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Bailey Nursing Home                     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 976               
                : Clinton, SC  29325
       Location : Jacobs Hwy.                   
                : Clinton, SC  29325
          Phone : 833-2550
          Owner : Laurens Cty Health Care System          
  Administrator : Clem P. Ham              
 License Number : NCF292
   Beds - Total :   43
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   43
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Laurens Nursing Home Inc.               
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1197              
                : Laurens, SC  29360
       Location : 301 Pinehaven St. Ext.        
                : Laurens, SC  29360
          Phone : 894-6584
          Owner : National Health Corp.                   
  Administrator : J. B. Kinney, Jr.        
 License Number : NCF326
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :   44





       Facility : Martha Franks Baptist Retirement Ctr.   
Mailing Address : 1 Martha Franks Dr.         
                : Laurens, SC  29360
       Location : l Martha Franks Dr.           
                : Laurens, SC  29360
          Phone : 984-4541
          Owner : S. C. Baptist Ministries Aging, Inc.    
  Administrator : Joe R. Babb              
 License Number : NCF435
   Beds - Total :   22
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   22
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Presbyterian Home of S.C./Clinton       
Mailing Address : SC Hwy 56 North             
                : Clinton, SC  29325
       Location : S. C. Hwy. 56 North           
                : Clinton, SC  29325
          Phone : 833-5190
          Owner : Presbyterian Home of S. C.              
  Administrator : Joan V. Young            
 License Number : NCF366
   Beds - Total :   66
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   66
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Whitten Center Med A, B, C, & D         
Mailing Address : P. O. Drawer 239            
                : Clinton, SC  29325
       Location : Hwy. 76 East                  
                : Clinton, SC  29325
          Phone : 833-2733
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Paul H. Burgess          
 License Number : NCF411
   Beds - Total :  155
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  111
     Beds - Icf :   44

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Laurens County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LAURENS - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                 
-DOC-
                 LAURENS - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Whitten Center Unit 1                   
Mailing Address : P. O. Drawer 239            
                : Clinton, SC  29325
       Location : Hwy. 76 East                  
                : Clinton, SC  29325
          Phone : 833-2733
          Owner : S. D. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Earl J. Anderson         
 License Number : IMR177
   Beds - Total :   24
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   24





       Facility : Whitten Center Unit 9                   
Mailing Address : P. O. Drawer 239            
                : Clinton, SC  29325
       Location : Hwy. 76 East                  
                : Clinton, SC  29325
          Phone : 833-2733
          Owner : S.C. Dept. of M. R.                     
  Administrator : Earl J. Anderson         
 License Number : IMR170
   Beds - Total :   32
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   32





       Facility : Whitten Center Units 15-24              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 239               
                : Clinton, SC  29325
       Location : Hwy. 76 East                  
                : Clinton, SC  29325
          Phone : 833-2733
          Owner : S.C. Dept. of M. R.                     
  Administrator : Armicia M. Lilley        
 License Number : IMR162
   Beds - Total :  485
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :  485





       Facility : Whitten Center, Webb Area Units 25-29   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 239               
                : Clinton, SC  29325
       Location : Hwy. 76 East                  
                : Clinton, SC  29325
          Phone : 833-2733
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Dianna C. Clements       
 License Number : IMR163
   Beds - Total :  368
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :  368





       Facility : Whitten Ctr, Campus Area Units 5 & 10   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 239               
                : Clinton, SC  29325
       Location : Hwy. 76 East                  
                : Clinton, SC  29325
          Phone : 833-2733
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Earl Anderson            
 License Number : IMR164
   Beds - Total :   50
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   50



       Facility : Oak Grove Community Residence           
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 1070             
                : Laurens, SC  29360
       Location : Old Laurens Rd.               
                : Laurens, SC  29360
          Phone : 682-9734
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Denice Hall              
 License Number : M1527 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Lee County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LEE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                  
-DOC-
                  LEE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Bradley's Residential Care Facility     
Mailing Address : Rt. 3, Box 96X           
                : Elliott, SC       
       Location : Rt. 3, Box 96X                
                : Elliott, SC  290l0
          Phone : 428-5690
          Owner : Mattie C. George                   
  Administrator : Mattie C. George         
 License Number : 379
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Townsend Terrace Annex                  
Mailing Address : 228 S. Heyward           
                : Bishopville, SC       
       Location : 228 S. Heyward St.            
                : Bishopville, SC  290l0
          Phone : 484-6626
          Owner : Mickey T. Shaw                     
  Administrator : Mickey T. Shaw           
 License Number : 195
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Townsend Terrace Retirement Home        
Mailing Address : 230 S. Heyward           
                : Bishopville, SC       
       Location : 230 S. Heyward St.            
                : Bishopville, SC  29010
          Phone : 484-6241
          Owner : Mickey T. Shaw                     
  Administrator : Mickey T. Shaw           
 License Number : 194
    No. of Beds :  10







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Lee County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LEE - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                      
-DOC-
                      LEE - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed skilled nursing care facilities in Lee County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Lee County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Lee
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                Presbyterian Home of South Carolina - Columbia
                              700 Da Vega Drive
                             Lexington, SC  29072
                                (803) 796-8700
                               Lexington County

Contact Person:...............................Margaret M. Taylor, Administrator
Proportion of residents from other states:....One of seventy-one
Residential capacity..........................73
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 68
Description of Units.................. 30 rooms, 38 apartments
Nursing home ......................... Other Presbyterian Homes provide such
                                       care when needed
Units purchased or rented............. Fee for service, rent
Security provisions .................. Security at night, 24hr staff-duty/call 
Safety features of unit............... Call system, sprinkler, alarm system
Handicapped accommodations............ Grab bars in bathrooms, some handicapped
                                       designed showers, hallway railings
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Must be requested from corp. office
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' Council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 65yrs old, ambulatory, member of 
                                       Presbyterian Church USA, able to care
                                       for self
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Board of Trustees
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Non-Presbyterian residents must prove
                                       ability to pay at admission.  
                                       Presbyterian residents supported by 
                                       endowment
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... If in facility's nursing home, pay 
                                       nursing home charges only.  If in
                                       private nursing, pay for both units
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ 30-90 days

              S.C. Episcopal Retirement Community at Still Hopes
                       7th Street off Knox Abbot Drive
                           West Columbia, SC  29169
                                (803) 796-6490
                               Lexington County

Contact Person:...............................Diana Jones, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....16%
Residential capacity..........................78
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 53
Description of Units.................. 30 rooms, 23 duplexes
Nursing home ......................... YES, 25 skilled beds, additional 19 
                                       under construction
Units purchased or rented............. Donated, Rented
Security provisions .................. Night security patrol
Safety features of unit............... Call system, smoke alarms
Handicapped accommodations............ Wheelchair access, bathroom safety
                                       rails, ramps, trained staff
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Audit available to those interested
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' meetings, open-door policy
                                       with administrator

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 55 yrs or older, income, nursing care 
                                       not required
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Determined by Board of Directors
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Community subsidies
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay for nursing and living unit, or 
                                       percentage of donation used to offset
                                       nursing fees
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Depends on physician's recommendation


                                 Hulon Greene
                             221 Birchwood Court
                           West Columbia, SC  29169
                                (803) 796-3280
                               Lexington County

Contact Person:...............................Paul Harrington, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....16%
Residential capacity..........................270
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 270
Description of Units.................. Duplexes, detached houses, condominiums
Nursing home ......................... Contractual agreement with local 
                                       nursing home
Units purchased or rented............. Purchased
Security provisions .................. Roving security plus security gates
Safety features of unit............... Numerous
Handicapped accommodations............ 36 inch doors
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Information unavailable
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident committee

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 55 yrs of age
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Information unavailable
Refund method outlined in contract.... NO
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... None
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Must pay monthly fees
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Forever











INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SICK DAY CARE                                 
-DOC-
                                 SICK DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                               Spoonful of Sugar
                     (a day care for mildly ill children)
                           #5 Richland Medical Park
                              Columbia, SC  29203
                                (803) 765-7942
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE SOUTH CAROLINA HANDICAPPED SERVUCES INFORMATION SYSTEM           
-DOC-
          THE SOUTH CAROLINA HANDICAPPED SERVUCES INFORMATION SYSTEM 
  Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life and Human Development Specialist

    The South Carolina Handicapped Services Information system (SCHSIS) is a
computerized information and referral system that provides a central source of
information on services available in South Carolina to handicapped citizens. 
This system contains a wide range of detailed information on services available
from state agencies, hospitals, private associations, voluntary organizations,
support groups and many more. By dialing this toll free number, 1-800-922-1107,
or in Columbia, 777-5732, you can reach a trained counselor who will
immediately (over the phone) help you find the service to meet your specific
needs.  This service is available Monday - Friday, 8:30 a.m.- 5:00 p.m.

                                      
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Abbeville County
P. O. Box 128
Abbeville, SC  29620
Phone:  459-5096

Regional Director:  Tommie Oglesby
                    233-2719
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Allendale County
P. O. Box 756
Allendale, SC  29810
Phone:  584-4751

Regional Director:  Tony Dukes
                    744-3381
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Anderson County
Courthouse
P. O. Box 4046
Anderson, SC  29621

Regional Director:  Tommie Oglesby
                    233-2719
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Bamberg/Barnwell Counties
P. O. Box 358
Bamberg, SC  29003
Phone:  245-5184

Regional Director:  Milton Ashford
                    359-2543

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Bamberg/Barnwell Counties
P. O. Box 358
Bamberg, SC  29003
Phone:  245-5184

Regional Director:  Milton Ashford
                    359-2543

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Beaufort County
P. O. Box 1484
Beaufort, SC  29902
Phone:  525-7454

Regional Director:  Tony Dukes
                    744-3381
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Berkeley County
Gulledge Street
Moncks Corner, SC  29461
Phone:  761-8194

Regional Director:  Tony Dukes
                    744-3381
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Berkeley County
Gulledge Street
Moncks Corner, SC  29461
Phone:  761-8194

Regional Director:  Tony Dukes
                    744-3381
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
     Emily S.Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist


          There is no information on this subject for Calhoun County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Charleston County
P. O. Box 395
Charleston, SC  29402
Phone:  727-2060

Regional Director:  Tony Dukes
                    744-3381
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Cherokee County
Box 1386
Gaffney, SC  29342
Phone:  487-2564

Regional Director:  Mary Foster
                    427-8493
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in McCormick County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Chesterfield County
P. O. Box 21
Chesterfield, SC  29709
Phone:  623-2378

Regional Director:  Nancy Benton
                    665-1553
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Clarendon County
P. O. Box 472
Manning, SC  29102
Phone:  435-8587

Regional Director:  Ray Cavanagh
                    737-9113
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Colleton County
P. O. Box 241
Walterboro, SC  29488
Phone:  549-1509

Regional Director:  Tony Dukes
                    744-3381
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Darlington County
P. O. Box 822
Darlington, SC  29532
Phone:  393-5641

Regional Director:  Nancy Benton
                    665-1553
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Dillon County
P. O. Box 1292
Dillon, SC  29536
Phone:  774-4147

Regional Director:  Nancy Benton
                    665-1553
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Dorchester County
P. O. Box 2748
Summerville, SC  29484
Phone:  871-3144

Regional Director:  Milton Ashford
                    359-2543
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Edgefield/McCormick/Saluda Counties
116 W. Church Street
Saluda, SC  29138
Phone:  445-8138

Regional Director:  Milton Ashford
                    359-2543

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in McCormick County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Florence County
180 N. Irby Street
Florence, SC  29501
Phone:  665-3080

Florence County Satellite Office
P. O. Box 1593
Lake City, SC 29560
Phone:  394-2122

Regional Director:  Nancy Benton
                    665-1553
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Georgetown County
P. O. Box 64
Georgetown, SC  29442
Phone:  546-8723

Regional Director:  Nancy Benton
                    665-1553
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Greenville County
P. O. Box 1803
Greenville, SC  29602
Phone:  271-6314

Regional Director:  Tommie Oglesby
                    233-2719
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Greenwood County
Room 202
County Courthouse
Greenwood, SC  29646
Phone:  229-6648

Regional Director:  Tommie Oglesby
                    233-2719
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Hampton County
P. O. Box 162
Hampton, SC  29924
Phone:  943-4296

Regional Director:  Tony Dukes
                    744-3381
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Marion County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Jasper County
P. O. Box 359
Ridgeland, SC  29936
Phone:  726-5666

Regional Director:  Tony Dukes
                    744-3381
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Kershaw County
P. O. Box 797
Camden, SC  29020
Phone:  435-8587

Regional Director:  Ray Cavanagh
                    737-9113
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Lancaster County
P. O. Box 1051
Lancaster, SC  29720
Phone:  285-9447

Regional Director:  Mary Foster
                    427-8493
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Laurens County
P. O. Box 686
201 Garlington Street
Laurens, SC  29360
Phone:  984-2518

Regional Director:  Tommie Oglesby
                    233-2719
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Lee County
Room 108 Lee County Courthouse
Bishopville, SC  29010
Phone:  484-5341

Regional Director:  Ray Cavanagh
                    737-9113
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Lexington County
105 S. Lake Drive
Lexington, SC  29072
Phone:  359-5526

Regional Director:  Milton Ashford
                    359-2543
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Edgefield/McCormick/Saluda Counties
116 W. Church Street
Saluda, SC  29138
Phone:  445-8138

Regional Director:  Milton Ashford
                    359-2543

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Marion County
P. O. Box 1094
Marion, SC  29571
Phone:  423-5140

Regional Director:  Nancy Benton
                    665-1553
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Marlboro County
P. O. Box 453
Bennettsville, SC  29512
Phone:  479-3361

Regional Director:  Nancy Benton
                    665-1553
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Newberry County
Newberry Family Court
P. O. Box 276
Newberry, SC  29108
Phone:  276-8243

Regional Director:  Tommie Oglesby
                    233-2719
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Oconee County
Room 100
County Courthouse Annex
Walhalla, SC  29691
Phone:  638-9537

Regional Director:  Tommie Oglesby
                    233-2719
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Orangeburg County
P. O. Box 929
Orangeburg, SC  29116
Phone:  533-1000

Regional Director:  Milton Ashford
                    359-2543
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Pickens County
Bowen Bldg.
Pendleton Street
Pickens, SC  29671
Phone:  878-7560

Regional Director:  Tommie Oglesby
                    233-2719
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Marlboro County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Edgefield/McCormick/Saluda Counties
116 W. Church Street
Saluda, SC  29138
Phone:  445-8138

Regional Director:  Milton Ashford
                    359-2543

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Spartanburg County
180 Magnolia Street
Spartanburg, SC  29304
Phone:  585-5181

Regional Director:  Mary Foster
                    427-8493
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Sumter County
P. O. Box 1235
Sumter, SC  29151
Phone:  778-2368

Regional Director:  Ray Cavanagh
                    737-9113
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Union County
P. O. Box 547
Union, SC  29379
Phone:  427-1252

Regional Director:  Mary Foster
                    427-8493
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

Williamsburg County
P. O. Box 699
Kingstree, SC  29556
Phone:  354-9143

Regional Director:  Ray Cavanagh
                    737-9113
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT                    
-DOC-
                    JUVENILE SERVICES FOR THE FAMILY COURT
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

York County
P. O. Box 4138 Crs
Rock Hill, SC  29730
Phone:  327-2046

Regional Director:  Mary Foster
                    427-8493
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Marlboro County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Marlboro
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Newberry County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NEWBERRY - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               NEWBERRY - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Butler's Home Care                      
Mailing Address : 425 S. Wheeler           
                : Prosp, SC  29127
       Location : 425 S. Wheeler                
                : Prosp, SC  29127
          Phone : 364-2821
          Owner : Earnest Butler                     
  Administrator : Earnest Butler           
 License Number : 292
    No. of Beds :  30











       Facility : Butler's Home Care                      
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 661           
                : Prosperity, SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 661, Leisure Point 
                : Prosperity, SC  29127
          Phone : 364-2120
          Owner : Earnest Butler                     
  Administrator : Earnest Butler           
 License Number : 150
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Mathis Residential Care                 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 85             
                : Whitmire, SC       
       Location : 10 Gary St.                   
                : Whitmire, SC  29178
          Phone : 694-3354
          Owner : Lucy J. Mathis                     
  Administrator : Lucy J. Mathis           
 License Number : 408
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Newberry Cty. Comm. ADA-Care Center     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 738            
                : Newberry, SC       
       Location : 909 College St.               
                : Newberry, SC  29108
          Phone : 276-5690
          Owner : Newberry County Comm. on ADA       
  Administrator : Ken C. Riebe             
 License Number : 66 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Newberry Cty. Comm. on ADA-Detox        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 738            
                : Newberry, SC       
       Location : 909 College St.               
                : Newberry, SC  29108
          Phone : 276-5690
          Owner : Newberry Cty. Comm. on ADA         
  Administrator : Ken C. Riebe             
 License Number : 67 
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : Whisperin' Pines Comm Care Ctr., Inc.   
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 131           
                : Prosperity, SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 131                
                : Prosperity, SC  29127
          Phone : 364-3829
          Owner : Vassie C. Pugh                     
  Administrator : Vassie C. Pugh           
 License Number : 60 
    No. of Beds :  10







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Newberry County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NEWBERRY - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    NEWBERRY - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : J.F. Hawkins Nursing Home               
Mailing Address : 1330 Kinard St.             
                : Newberry, SC  29108
       Location : 1330 Kinard St.               
                : Newberry, SC  29108
          Phone : 276-2601
          Owner : J. F. Hawkins Bd. of Commissioners      
  Administrator : Fred K. Taylor           
 License Number : NCF234
   Beds - Total :   78
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   78
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Newberry Convalescent Center            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 754               
                : Newberry, SC  29108
       Location : Kinard St.                    
                : Newberry, SC  29108
          Phone : 276-6060
          Owner : White Oak Manor, Inc.                   
  Administrator : Edith C. Goforth         
 License Number : NCF306
   Beds - Total :   62
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :   18

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Newberry County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Newberry
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                                  Keowee Key
                                    Rt. 2
                               Salem, SC  29676
                                (803) 944-2400
                                Oconee County

Contact Person:...............................Fee Stubblefield, Director of 
                                              Marketing
Proportion of residents from other states:....95%
Residential capacity..........................2200 families
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 710
Description of Units.................. Detached house, condominiums
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Purchased
Security provisions .................. 24hr gate and roving  security, 
                                       emergency procedure for fire and medical
Safety features of unit............... Double-wall construction in 
                                       condominiums, smoke detectors
Handicapped accommodations............ Ramps in condominiums and elevators in 
                                       some, cement platforms and bridges
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Financial report available, monthly 
                                       meeting with management
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Suggestion box, regular meetings with 
                                       management

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Financially able and qualified to 
                                       purchase/finance
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Annual maintenance fee for unkeep of 
                                       environment
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Lien filed
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Individual
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as fees and payments are 
                                       current quarterly









INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OCONEE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                OCONEE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Hall House                              
Mailing Address : Rt.-HC-Box 78            
                : Salem, SC       
       Location : Old Shallowford Rd.           
                : Salem, SC  29676
          Phone : 944-0610
          Owner : C. Fay Hall                        
  Administrator : C. Fay Hall              
 License Number : 304
    No. of Beds :  20











       Facility : Lakeview Rest Home, Inc.                
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 181           
                : Walhalla, SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 181                
                : Walhalla, SC  29691
          Phone : 638-5212
          Owner : Lakeview Rest Home, Inc.           
  Administrator : Patsy Collins            
 License Number : 86 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Oconee Residential Care                 
Mailing Address : 330 Keowee Sch Rd.       
                : Seneca, SC       
       Location : 330 Keowee School Rd.         
                : Seneca, SC  29678
          Phone : 822-7637
          Owner : Oconee Cty. MR Board               
  Administrator : Vicki A. Thompson        
 License Number : 219
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Seneca Residential Care Center          
Mailing Address : Rt. 6, Box 302           
                : Seneca, SC       
       Location : Rt. 6, Box 302                
                : Seneca, SC  29678
          Phone : 882-7390
          Owner : Seneca Residential Care Center     
  Administrator : Leslie D. Parks          
 License Number : 337
    No. of Beds :  33







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OCONEE - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                     
-DOC-
                     OCONEE - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Lila Doyle Nursing Care Facility        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 585               
                : Seneca, SC  29678
       Location : Hwy. 123                      
                : Seneca, SC  29678
          Phone : 882-3351
          Owner : Oconee Memorial Hospital Association    
  Administrator : W. H. Hudson             
 License Number : NCF297
   Beds - Total :   79
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   40
     Beds - Icf :   39





       Facility : Oconee Geriatric Center, Inc.           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box l89               
                : Seneca, SC  29678
       Location : Rt. 6, Fairplay Hwy.          
                : Seneca, SC  29678
          Phone : 882-1642
}i          Owner : Oconee Geriatric Center, Inc.           
}i          Owner : Oconee Geriatric Center, Inc.           .ks          
 License Number : NCF394
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :   44

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Oconee County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OCONEE - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                 
-DOC-
                 OCONEE - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Oconee Community Residence              
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 31-A             
                : Seneca, SC  29678
       Location : 330 Keowee School Rd.         
                : Seneca, SC  29678
          Phone : 882-2126
          Owner : S. D. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Vickie Neely Thompson    
 License Number : IMR146
   Beds - Total :   16
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   16

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Pecan Grove Elderly Housing
                            1820 St. Matthews Road
                            Orangeburg, SC  29115
                                (803) 534-0815
                              Orangeburg County

Contact Person:...............................Nona Adkins, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....2%
Residential capacity..........................79
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 75
Description of Units.................. Row apartments
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Maintenance man lives on grounds
Safety features of unit............... Smoke detectors, emergency pull chains 
                                       in bathroom and bedrooms
Handicapped accommodations............ Lower cabinets, wider hallways, 
                                       special made showers
Visitor tour available................ NO
Financial soundness information shared:  N/A
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... None

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62 yrs or older, income, able to care 
                                       for one's needs, must be U.S. citizen
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. NO
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. NO
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Based on income
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Government pays
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... None
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ 60 days
                              The Methodist Home
                               P.O. Drawer 327
                            Orangeburg, SC  29116
                                (803) 534-1212
                              Orangeburg County

Contact Person:...............................Rev. Burton Sheffield, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....4.7%
Residential capacity..........................370
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 370
Description of Units.................. Duplexes, apartments
Nursing home ......................... YES, 73 intermediate and 52 skilled
Units purchased or rented............. Both
Security provisions .................. Nightwatchman
Safety features of unit............... Hand rails, smoke detector
Handicapped accommodations............ One story units, wheelchair accessible
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Financial status report provided
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Advisory council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. NO, policy statement only
Eligibility requirements.............. Good health
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Based on costs
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Limited funds provided by Methodist 
                                       Church
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay additional fee
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Until business office is provided with 
                                       a release
                               Bradford Village
                        1 Bradford Boulevard PO Box 70
                              Santee, SC  29142
                                (803) 854-2155
                              Orangeburg County

Contact Person:...............................Johnny Roland, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....70%
Residential capacity..........................1000 homes
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 500 (when completed)
Description of Units.................. Duplexes, detached houses
Nursing home ......................... None at this time, reservations at 
                                       local nursing homes from other owners
Units purchased or rented............. Purchased with some rentals
Security provisions .................. Restricted access gate entrance,
                                       homes enclosed by cyclone fence
Safety features of unit............... Automatic dial emergency phones,
                                       on-site medical center
Handicapped accommodations............ Hand rails in the homes,all homes
                                       on single level, doors access 
                                       wheelchairs
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  YES  Annual and special meetings of
                                       homeowners
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures................Majority vote of residents 
                                       Board of Directors

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. One member must be 50 yrs of age and 
                                       over, no children
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Homeowners Association Review
Refund method outlined in contract.... Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... N/A
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Resident can sell their home
                                       All dues and fees are due from
                                       current owner/estate while title is
                                       held by said person
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Indefinite-Resident owns home, fee 
                                       simple








INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ORANGEBURG - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS              
-DOC-
              ORANGEBURG - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Alexander's Golden Star Comm. Care Home 
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 792           
                : Santee, SC       
       Location : Rt. 2, Box 792                
                : Santee, SC  29142
          Phone : 854-2496
          Owner : Ollie M. Alexander                 
  Administrator : Ollie M. Alexander       
 License Number : 171
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Brian's Residential Care                
Mailing Address : Rt. 1, Box 173-C         
                : Orangeburg, SC  29432
       Location : 1115 Whitman St.              
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 533-1588
          Owner : Albert O. Stokes                   
  Administrator : Albert O. Stokes         
 License Number : 418
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Browder Manor                           
Mailing Address : 1064 Ellis Ave.          
                : Orangeburg, SC       
       Location : 1064 Ellis Ave.               
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 534-4022
          Owner : Peggy Carrigg Browder              
  Administrator : Peggy C. Browder         
 License Number : 63 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Brown's Residential Care Facility       
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 310           
                : Orangeburg, SC       
       Location : Rt. 2, Box 310                
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 534-8771
          Owner : David & Mamie L. Brown             
  Administrator : Mamie L. & David L. Brown
 License Number : 52 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : C D & S Rest Home                       
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 843           
                : Orangeburg, SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 843                
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 536-5944
          Owner : Sally Keitt                        
  Administrator : Sally Keitt              
 License Number : 290
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Catherine's Manor                       
Mailing Address : 376 Duncan St.           
                : Orangeburg, SC       
       Location : 376 Duncan St.                
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 531-2088
          Owner : Catherine Carr                     
  Administrator : Catherine Carr           
 License Number : 87 
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : Elliott's Home for the Aged #2          
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 126-C         
                : Bowman, SC       
       Location : Rt. 1, Box 126-C              
                : Bowman, SC  29018
          Phone : 829-2127
          Owner : Yvonne Elliott & Glen Elliott, Jr. 
  Administrator : Yvonne Elliott           
 License Number : 272
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Hickson's Residential Care Home         
Mailing Address : Rt. 7, Box 635           
                : Orangeburg, SC       
       Location : Rt. 7, Box 635                
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 534-0263
          Owner : Stanley Hickson                    
  Administrator : Albert Hickson           
 License Number : 81 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Jolly Rest More Community Care Home #2  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1582           
                : Orangeburg, SC       
       Location : 139 Seminole St.              
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 536-0060
          Owner : Lynn P. Smith                      
  Administrator : Lynn P. Smith            
 License Number : 333
    No. of Beds :  14











       Facility : Jolly Rest More Rest Home #1            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1582           
                : Orangeburg, SC       
       Location : 488 Glover St.                
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 531-4386
          Owner : Lynn P. Smith                      
  Administrator : Lynn P. Smith            
 License Number : 332
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Jones Residential Care                  
Mailing Address : Rt. 5, Box 869           
                : Orangeburg, SC       
       Location : Rt. 5, Box 869                
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 534-1629
          Owner : Vertell Jones                      
  Administrator : Vertell Jones            
 License Number : 167
    No. of Beds :   2











       Facility : Shady Lane Residential Care             
Mailing Address : 855 Cook Rd.             
                : Orangeburg, SC       
       Location : 855 Cook Rd.                  
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 534-3286
          Owner : John & Louise Stokes               
  Administrator : John & Louise Stokes     
 License Number : 175
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Smith's Adult Residential Care          
Mailing Address : 997 Russell St.          
                : Orangeburg, SC       
       Location : 997 Russell St.               
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 531-3237
          Owner : Henry Smith                        
  Administrator : Henry Smith              
 License Number : 79 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Summer's Home for the Aged              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 308            
                : Bowman, SC  290l8
       Location : Moss St.                      
                : Bowman, SC  29018
          Phone : 829-3445
          Owner : Helen Summers                      
  Administrator : Helen Summers            
 License Number : 154
    No. of Beds :   2











       Facility : Tri-County Comm. ADA-Detox Unit         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 365            
                : Orangeburg, SC  29116
       Location : 897 Russell St.               
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 536-4900
          Owner : Tri-County Commission on ADA       
  Administrator : Richard S. Fowler        
 License Number : 411
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Tri-County Comm. ADA-Halfway House      
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1365           
                : Orangeburg, SC  29116
       Location : 897 Russell St.               
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 536-4900
          Owner : Tri-County Commission on ADA       
  Administrator : Richard S. Fowler        
 License Number : 403
    No. of Beds :  16











       Facility : Tyler Restmore Home                     
Mailing Address : 471 Glover St.           
                : Orangeburg, SC       
       Location : 471 Glover St.                
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 536-0740
          Owner : Mabel S. Tyler & Emily T. Williams 
  Administrator : Mable S. Tyler           
 License Number : 347
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Utsey's Community Residential Care      
Mailing Address : 496 Lake Edisto          
                : Orgblistrg, SC       
       Location : 496 Lake Edisto Rd.           
                : Orgblistrg, SC  29115
          Phone : 531-2511
          Owner : Sarah Utsey                        
  Administrator : Sarah Utsey              
 License Number : 58 
    No. of Beds :   4







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Orangeburg County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ORANGEBURG - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                   
-DOC-
                   ORANGEBURG - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Edisto Convalescent Center              
Mailing Address : 500 Entrp St. SW            
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
       Location : 500 Enterprise St. S.W.       
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 534-7771
          Owner : Orangeburg Convalescent Ctr., Inc.      
  Administrator : Ervin A. Green           
 License Number : NCF337
   Beds - Total :   86
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   43
     Beds - Icf :   43





       Facility : Jolley Acres Nursing Home               
Mailing Address : Drawer 1909                 
                : Orangeburg, SC  29116
       Location : 1180 Wolfe Trail              
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 534-1001
          Owner : J.E.H. and Associates, Inc.             
  Administrator : Deana Houser             
 License Number : NCF389
   Beds - Total :   43
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   43
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Orangeburg Nursing Home, Inc.           
Mailing Address : 755 Whitman, SE             
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
       Location : 755 Whitman SE                
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 534-7036
          Owner : Orangeburg Nursing Home, Inc.           
  Administrator : Catherine D. Young       
 License Number : NCF375
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : The Methodist Home                      
Mailing Address : P. O. Drawer 327            
                : Orangeburg, SC  29116
       Location : Hwy. 21 South                 
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 534-1212
          Owner : The Methodist Home Board of Trustees    
  Administrator : George W. Oerke          
 License Number : NCF9  
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   52
     Beds - Icf :   80
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Orangeburg County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ORANGEBURG - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION               
-DOC-
               ORANGEBURG - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Amelia Community Residence              
Mailing Address : 8301 Farrow Rd., Cola       
                : Orangeburg, SC  29203
       Location : 550 Amelia Street             
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 536-1361
          Owner : S.C. Dept. of M. R.                     
  Administrator : Anita Linder             
 License Number : M153  
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Boulevard Community Residence           
Mailing Address : 830l Farrow Rd., Cola       
                : Orangeburg, SC  29203
       Location : 612 Boulevard Street          
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 536-1361
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Anita Linder             
 License Number : M152  
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Sifly Street Community Residence        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1812              
                : Orangeburg, SC  29116
       Location : 930 Sifly St.                 
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 536-1170
          Owner : Orangeburg Housing, Inc.                
  Administrator : Anita Linder             
 License Number : M1554 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Wannamaker Street Community Residence   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1812              
                : Orangeburg, SC  29116
       Location : 250 Wannamaker St.            
                : Orangeburg, SC  29115
          Phone : 536-1170
          Owner : Orangeburg Housing, Inc.                
  Administrator : Anita Linder             
 License Number : M1553 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                     Clemson Area Retirement Center, Inc.
                                (Clemson Downs)
                                500 Downs Loop
                              Clemson, SC  29631
                                (803) 654-1155
                                Pickens County

Contact Person:...............................Rock A. Reinhart, Administrator
Proportion of residents from other states:....Twenty nine states represented
Residential capacity..........................306
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 96 apartments, 100 homes
Description of Units.................. Apartments and townhouses
Nursing home ......................... YES, 44 bed skilled nursing facility
Units purchased or rented............. Rent apartments, rent or purchase 
                                       townhouses
Security provisions .................. City police patrol streets of the 
                                       Downs, health care center, emergency
                                       medical center 4 mins. away
Safety features of unit............... Fire alarm system, call system in each
                                       apartment, medical hotline 24hrs/day
Handicapped accommodations............ Wide halls and doors, ramps, no stepups
                                       grab bars in bathroom, electric doors
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  YES
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... YES, it is a resident owned facility, 
                                       elect owned directors

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 55 yrs. of age or older, must be mobile,
                                       able to pay for services, insurance
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES, for apartments
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Apartment rates established by Board of 
                                       Directors
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Residents must be capable of paying
                                       for services or vacate residence
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Must be able to pay for services used
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary 
nursing home placement................ As long as monthly payment is received
                                       for both units
                              Country Side Manor
                               706 Pelzer Hwy.
                               Easley,SC  29640
                                (803) 859-0167
                                Pickens County

Contact Person:...............................Rudolph Pick, Administrator
                                          Debra E. Morehead, Resident Counselor
Proportion of residents from other states:....33%
Residential capacity..........................Depends on number of person in  
                                              each apartment
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 115 apartments, 30 resident care homes
Description of Units.................. 1 & 2 bedroom apartments
Nursing home ......................... NO
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Night security guards, locked entrance
Safety features of unit............... Emergency call, grab bars in bathrooms,
                                       smoke alarms, fire alarms
Handicapped accommodations............ No steps, wheelchair access
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  N/A
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Grievance procedures, suggestion box

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Independent living, 55 yrs or older
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. Nominal
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES, housekeeping, linens, meals 
                                       included.  Additional charge for cable
                                       TV, personal laundry, telephone
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Fees depend on size of unit and number
                                       of occupants
Refund method outlined in contract.... N/A
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... No financial subsidy available
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Rent prorated at time of transfer
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Subject to continuance of paying 
                                       monthly fee









INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PICKENS - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                PICKENS - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : April Valley                            
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 401           
                : Pickens, SC  29671
       Location : West Old Farrs Bridge Road    
                : Pickens, SC  29670
          Phone : 855-1871
          Owner : Margaret Flaugher                  
  Administrator : Margaret Flaugher        
 License Number : 17 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Brookway Community Residential Care     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1807           
                : Easley, SC  29641
       Location : 117 Brookway Dr.              
                : Easley, SC  29640
          Phone : 855-1374
          Owner : Community Health Services, Inc.    
  Administrator : Norah Kertis             
 License Number : 23 
    No. of Beds :  26











       Facility : Countryside Manor                       
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1423           
                : Easley, SC  29641
       Location : 706 Pelzer Hwy.               
                : Easley, SC  29640
          Phone : 859-0167
          Owner : Schweiner & Finley, Inc.           
  Administrator : Rudolph Pick             
 License Number : 441
    No. of Beds :  30











       Facility : Easley Retirement Center                
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 736            
                : Easley, SC       
       Location : 102 Dowling St.               
                : Easley, SC  29640
          Phone : 859-3722
          Owner : West End Retirement Center, Inc.   
  Administrator : Bert Owens               
 License Number : 359
    No. of Beds :  28











       Facility : Maggie Manor                            
Mailing Address : 300 S. Fifth St.         
                : Easley, SC       
       Location : 300 S. Fifth St.              
                : Easley, SC  29640
          Phone : 855-3957
          Owner : West End Retirement Center, Inc.   
  Administrator : John W. Owens            
 License Number : 295
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Master Care, Inc.                       
Mailing Address : Rt. 3, Box 517           
                : Liberty, SC       
       Location : Rt. 3, Box 517                
                : Liberty, SC  29657
          Phone : 878-9926
          Owner : Master Care, Inc.                  
  Administrator : Jimmy D. Master          
 License Number : 358
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : Six Mile Retirement Center              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box H              
                : Six Mile, SC       
       Location : Main St.                      
                : Six Mile, SC  29682
          Phone : 868-9050
          Owner : Charles Neild                      
  Administrator : Charles Neild            
 License Number : 1  
    No. of Beds :  41











       Facility : West End Retirement Center, Inc.        
Mailing Address : 200 S. 5th St.           
                : Easley, SC       
       Location : 200 S. 5th St.                
                : Easley, SC  29640
          Phone : 859-4370
          Owner : West End Retirement Center, Inc.   
  Administrator : Ellen A. Owens           
 License Number : 204
    No. of Beds :  36







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PICKENS - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                PICKENS - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Blue Ridge Health Care, Inc.            
Mailing Address : 1800 Crestview Rd.          
                : Easley, SC  29640
       Location : 1800 Crestview Rd.            
                : Easley, SC  29640
          Phone : 859-3236
          Owner : Blue Ridge Health Care, Inc.            
  Administrator : Virginia Byrd            
 License Number : ICF178
   Beds - Total :   67
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   67





       Facility : Harveys Love and Care                   
Mailing Address : P. O. Drawer C              
                : Six Mile, SC  29682
       Location : Hwy 183                       
                : Six Mile, SC  29682
          Phone : 868-2307
          Owner : Harveys Love & Care Home, Inc.          
  Administrator : Helen D. Towe            
 License Number : ICF30 
   Beds - Total :   40
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   40





       Facility : McKinney ICF                            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 895               
                : Pickens, SC  29671
       Location : 113 Rosemond St.              
                : Pickens, SC  2967l
          Phone : 878-9620
          Owner : Floyd McDonald                          
  Administrator : Iris L. Robinson         
 License Number : ICF35 
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   44

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
{_                    PICKENS - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
-DOC-
{_                    PICKENS - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Clemson Area Retirement Center          
Mailing Address : 500 Downs Loop              
                : Clemson, SC  29631
       Location : 500 Downs Loop                
                : Clemson, SC  29631
          Phone : 654-1155
          Owner : Clemson Area Retirement Center, Inc.    
  Administrator : Rock Reinhart            
 License Number : NCF391
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   44
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Easley Health Care, Inc.                
Mailing Address : 200 Anne Drive              
                : Easley, SC  29640
       Location : 200 Anne Drive                
                : Easley, SC  29640
          Phone : 859-9754
          Owner : Easley Health Care, Inc.                
  Administrator : Margaret B. Lollis       
 License Number : NCF455
   Beds - Total :  103
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
w3    Beds - Dual :  103
{_     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Laurel Hill Nursing Center, Inc.        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 972               
                : Pickens, SC  29671
       Location : 601 E. Cedar Rock St.         
                : Pickens, SC  29671
          Phone : 878-4739
          Owner : Laurel Hill Nursing Ctr., Inc.          
  Administrator : W. B. Lewis              
 License Number : NCF314
   Beds - Total :   80
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   80
     Beds - Icf :    0
}i
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Pickens County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PICKENS - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                 
-DOC-
                 PICKENS - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Easley Community Residence              
Mailing Address : 406 Olive St.               
                : Easley, SC  29640
       Location : 406 Olive St.                 
                : Easley, SC  29640
          Phone : 859-4411
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Thomas F. Kirby, Ph.D.   
 License Number : M15 61
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                            Woods Edge Apartments
                              109 Hill Pine Rd.
                             Columbia, SC  29212
                                (803) 781-9065
                               Richland County

Contact Person:...............................Mrs. Tommie Haselden
Proportion of residents from other states:....25%
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 130 one bedrm apts.
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... NO
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Telephone security for doors, alarms on 
                                       exits, smoke/heat detector, intercoms
Safety features of unit............... Grab bars in bath, 2 elevators
Handicapped accomodations............. 13 handicap units, ledge seats in 
                                       tub/shower, doors access wheelchairs
Visitor tour available................ By appointment only
Financial soundness information shared:  N/A
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... N/A

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Based on income
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... YES
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Government subsidized
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Termination of lease
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................Required to pay monthly charges
                                 Finlay House
                               2100 Blossom St.
                             Columbia, SC  29205
                                (803) 799-6524
                               Richland County

Contact Person:...............................Carol Reis
Proportion of residents from other states:....25%
Residential capacity..........................203
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 203 apartments
Description of Units.................. High Rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. 24 hr personnel on duty
Safety features of unit............... Smoke alarms, emergency bell
Handicapped accommodations............ Information unavailable
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Never been shared
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' Council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 62 yrs and old
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Rent is 30% of monthly income
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Recertifications provided at income
                                       changes once a year
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... None unless we hold apartment for
                                       potential return
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ 3-6 months as long as the individual
                                       continues to pay rent
                              Christopher Towers
                               1805 Devine St.
                             Columbia, SC  29201
                                (803) 799-5876
                               Richland County

Contact Person:...............................A.C. Yost, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....Very minor
Residential capacity..........................225
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 225
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. 24 hr surveilance
Safety features of unit............... Fire walls, smoke alarms, bathroom rails
                                       emergency alarm system
Handicapped accommodations............ Very limited occupancy accepted
Visitor tour available................ YES, by appointment
Financial soundness information shared:  N/A
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Word or mouth, policy booklet furnished

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Moderate income and health status
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... 30% of adjusted monthly income or base
                                       rent of apartment (whichever is greater)
Refund method outlined in contract.... Only security deposit
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Residents required to move out
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Residents must handle completely
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ No provision
                               The Lowman Home
                             P.O. Box 444 Hwy. 76
                           White Rock, S.C.  29177
                                (803) 732-3000
                               Richland County

Contact Person:...............................Rev. Dr. J. Kenneth Webb, Pres.
Proportion of residents from other states:....10%
Residential capacity..........................307
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 39
Description of Units.................. Duplexes, detached houses
Nursing home ......................... YES, 139 boarding home, 44 
                                       intermediate, 85 skilled and
                                       intermediate
Units purchased or rented............. Purchased
Security provisions .................. Security at night
Safety features of unit............... Information unavailable
Handicapped accommodations............ Units are for self-sustaining residents
                                       with minimal handicaps
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  YES
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident committees

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 60 yrs of age or older
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Board of Trustees
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Home absorbs cost
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Depends upon assets available
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Until physician determines resident
                                       is unable to return to living unit









INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RICHLAND - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               RICHLAND - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : A & L Community Care Home               
Mailing Address : 715 Wilkes Rd.           
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 715 Wilkes Rd.                
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 786-0441
          Owner : Alice M. Phillips                  
  Administrator : Lester E. Phillips       
 License Number : 29 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Addison's Community Care Home #1        
Mailing Address : 7538 Claudia Dr.         
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 7538 Claudia Dr.              
                : Columbia, SC  29223
          Phone : 788-5373
          Owner : Dorothy Addison                    
  Administrator : Dorothy Addison          
 License Number : 264
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : Addison's Community Care Home #2        
Mailing Address : Rt. 3, Box 42099         
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : Rt. 3, Box 42099              
                : Columbia, SC  29206
          Phone : 736-0455
          Owner : Dorothy Addison                    
  Administrator : Dorothy Addison          
 License Number : 402
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Aiken's Community Care Home             
Mailing Address : 216 Cora Dr.             
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 216 Cora Dr.                  
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 754-4749
          Owner : Charles Aiken                      
  Administrator : Charles Aiken            
 License Number : 121
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Bates Community Care Home #1            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 317l           
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : 920 Sandpiper Lane            
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 786-6084
          Owner : Lydia Bates                        
  Administrator : Lydia & Lewis Bates      
 License Number : 28 
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Bates Community Care Home #2            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3171           
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : 935 Sandpiper Lane            
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 754-5541
          Owner : Lydia Bates                        
  Administrator : Lydia & Lewis Bates      
 License Number : 205
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Billye's Community Care Home            
Mailing Address : Apt. A 3026 Park         
                : Columbia, SC  29201
       Location : 3026 Park St.                 
                : Columbia, SC  29201
          Phone : 254-9280
          Owner : Willie L. Jones                    
  Administrator : Willie L. Jones          
 License Number : 68 
    No. of Beds :   3











       Facility : Briggs & Nelson Community Care Home     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3283           
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : 4914 Colonial Dr.             
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 786-5930
          Owner : Jessie L. Nelson & Mary P. Briggs  
  Administrator : Mary P. Briggs           
 License Number : 281
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : CHAPS-Columbia Area Recovery Residence  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 50685          
                : Columbia, SC  29250
       Location : 4215 Bethel Church Rd.,Apt H-l
                : Columbia, SC  29206
          Phone : 787-0561
          Owner : CHAPS, Inc.                        
  Administrator : Margaret H. Barksdale    
 License Number : 161
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : CHAPS-Columbia Area Recovery Residence  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 50865          
                : Columbia, SC  29250
       Location : 4215 Bethel Church Rd. Apt H-4
                : Columbia, SC  29206
          Phone : 787-0563
          Owner : CHAPS, Inc.                        
  Administrator : Margaret H. Barksdale    
 License Number : 389
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : CHAPS-Columbia Area Recovery Residence  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 50685          
                : Columbia, SC  29250
       Location : 3400 Covenant Rd., Apt. U-4   
                : Columbia, SC  29205
          Phone : 787-0608
          Owner : CHAPS, Inc.                        
  Administrator : Margaret H. Barksdale    
 License Number : 159
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : CHAPS-Columbia Area Recovery Residence  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 50685          
                : Columbia, SC  29250
       Location : 4215 Bethel Church Rd. Apt H-3
                : Columbia, SC  29206
          Phone : 787-0562
          Owner : CHAPS, Inc.                        
  Administrator : Margaret H. Barksdale    
 License Number : 162
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : CHAPS-Columbia Area Recovery Residence  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 50685          
                : Columbia, SC  29250
       Location : 3400 Covenant Rd., Apt. U-3   
                : Columbia, SC  29205
          Phone : 787-0607
          Owner : CHAPS, Inc.                        
  Administrator : Margaret H. Barksdale    
 License Number : 160
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Casual Community Care Home              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 4092           
                : Columbia, SC  29203
       Location : 263 Goodrich Street           
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 788-2721
          Owner : Lula W. Henry                      
  Administrator : Lula W. Henry            
 License Number : 334
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Corine's Community Care Home            
Mailing Address : 5017 Colonial Dr.        
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 5017 Colonial Drive           
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 735-0372
          Owner : Corine Morris                      
  Administrator : Corine Morris            
 License Number : 218
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Crawford's Boarding Home                
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 256            
                : Blythewood, SC       
       Location : Rt. 2, Trading Post Road      
                : Blythewood, SC  29016
          Phone : 786-9020
          Owner : Crawford's Boarding Home, Inc.     
  Administrator : Martha G. Crawford       
 License Number : 44 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Davis Community Care Home               
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3273           
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : 2294 Heyward Brockington Rd.  
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 754-5677
          Owner : Elijah & Thomasena Davis           
  Administrator : Elijah & Thomasena Davis 
 License Number : 240
    No. of Beds :  19











       Facility : Dowdy's Community Care Home #1          
Mailing Address : 504 Isaac St.            
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 504 Isaac St.                 
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 754-4325
          Owner : Frank Dowdy                        
  Administrator : Frank Dowdy              
 License Number : 127
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Dowdy's Community Care Home #2          
Mailing Address : 4609 Arlington St.       
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 4609 Arlington St.            
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 754-4325
          Owner : Frank Dowdy                        
  Administrator : Annie R. Dowdy           
 License Number : 173
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Dowling's Community #1                  
Mailing Address : 2905 River Dr.           
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 2905 River Dr.                
                : Columbia, SC  29201
          Phone : 252-0106
          Owner : O-Five, Inc.                       
  Administrator : Nancy D. Dowling         
 License Number : 362
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Dowling's Community Care Home #2        
Mailing Address : 2905 River Dr.           
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 2905 River Dr.                
                : Columbia, SC  29201
          Phone : 252-0106
          Owner : O-Five, Inc.                       
  Administrator : Nancy D. Dowling         
 License Number : 363
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Elliott's Community Care Home           
Mailing Address : 1216 Hyatt St.           
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 1216 Hyatt St.                
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 754-5097
          Owner : Felicia Elliott                    
  Administrator : Felicia Elliott          
 License Number : 206
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Flanagan Community Care Home            
Mailing Address : Rt. 5, Box 330           
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : Rt. 5, Box 330                
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 754-2136
          Owner : Larry C. Sloan                     
  Administrator : Larry C. Sloan           
 License Number : 314
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Flowers Community Residential Care      
Mailing Address : 1930 Chaney St.          
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 1930 Chaney St.               
                : Columbia, SC  29204
          Phone : 735-0920
          Owner : Theodore Flowers                   
  Administrator : Theodore Flowers         
 License Number : 376
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Harris Community Care Home              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3471           
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : Rt. 5, Box 276, Sharpe Rd.    
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 754-2978
          Owner : Margaret Harris                    
  Administrator : Margaret Harris          
 License Number : 51 
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Hinton Street Community Care            
Mailing Address : P.  O. Box 3283          
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : 608 Hinton St.                
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 735-0747
          Owner : Mary E. Briggs & Jessie L. Nelson  
  Administrator : Mary E. Briggs           
 License Number : 399
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : Jerry's Boarding Home                   
Mailing Address : 813 Gabriel St.          
                : Columbia, SC  29203
       Location : 6800 Doby Dr.                 
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 754-6536
          Owner : Geraldine W. Brown                 
  Administrator : Geraldine Brown          
 License Number : 365
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Joanne's Community Care Home #1         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 4740           
                : Columbia, SC  29240
       Location : 511 Ross Rd.                  
                : Columbia, SC  29204
          Phone : 736-4635
          Owner : Charlie & Joanne Caldwell          
  Administrator : Charlie W. Caldwell      
 License Number : 31 
    No. of Beds :  13











       Facility : Joanne's Community Care Home #2         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 4740           
                : Columbia, SC  29240
       Location : 756 Farrowwood Dr.            
                : Columbia, SC  29204
          Phone : 736-3036
          Owner : Charlie & Joanne Caldwell          
  Administrator : Charlie W. Caldwell      
 License Number : 30 
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Kathy's Community Care Home #1          
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 83            
                : Blythewood, SC       
       Location : Hwy. 555                      
                : Blythewood, SC  29016
          Phone : 787-3622
          Owner : Kathy's, Inc.                      
  Administrator : Katherine Thomas         
 License Number : 50 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Kathy's Community Care Home #2          
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 83            
                : Blythewood, SC       
       Location : 420 Toddbranch Dr.            
                : Blythewood, SC  29016
          Phone : 787-3622
          Owner : Katherine Thomas                   
  Administrator : Katherine Thomas         
 License Number : 43 
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Lambright's Community Care Home #1      
Mailing Address : 9917 Wilson Blvd.        
                : Blythewood, SC       
       Location : 9917 Wilson Blvd.             
                : Blythewood, SC  29016
          Phone : 786-8612
          Owner : Lambright's Community Care Home Inc
  Administrator : Mark I. Lambright        
 License Number : 372
    No. of Beds :  20











       Facility : Lambright's Community Care Home #2      
Mailing Address : 9917 Wilson Blvd.        
                : Blythewood, SC       
       Location : 9917 Wilson Blvd.             
                : Blythewood, SC  29016
          Phone : 786-8612
          Owner : Lambright's Comm. Care Home, Inc.  
  Administrator : Mark I. Lambright        
 License Number : 373
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Lexington/Richland ADA Council Unit III 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 50597          
                : Columbia, SC  29250
       Location : 2621 Devine St.               
                : Columbia, SC  29205
          Phone : 256-3100
          Owner : Lexington/Richland ADA Council     
  Administrator : James M. Gillespie       
 License Number : 202
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : Lexington/Richland ADA/Detox Unit       
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 50597          
                : Columbia, SC  29250
       Location : 2020 Washington St.           
                : Columbia, SC  29204
          Phone : 256-3100
          Owner : Lexington/Richland ADA             
  Administrator : Kathy Jo Brown           
 License Number : 203
    No. of Beds :  20











       Facility : Lexington/Richland Alcohol Unit I       
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 50597          
                : Columbia, SC  29250
       Location : 2617 Devine St.               
                : Columbia, SC  29205
          Phone : 256-3100
          Owner : Lexington/Richland ADA Council     
  Administrator : James M. Gillespie       
 License Number : 200
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Lowman Home Community Residential Care  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 444            
                : White Rock, SC  29177
       Location : Rt. 76                        
                : White Rock, SC  29177
          Phone : 732-3000
          Owner : Lowman Home Board of Trustees      
  Administrator : J. Kenneth Webb, Rev.    
 License Number : 407
    No. of Beds : 125











       Facility : Mark Lambright Community Care Home      
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 7341           
                : Columbia, SC  29202
       Location : 490 Koon Store Rd.            
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 754-5403
          Owner : Mark Lambright Comm. Care Home, Inc
  Administrator : Mark Lambright           
 License Number : 268
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Minger's Community Care Home            
Mailing Address : 524 Rockhaven Dr.        
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 524 Rockhaven Dr.             
                : Columbia, SC  29223
          Phone : 788-7395
          Owner : Ruth Minger                        
  Administrator : Ruth Minger              
 License Number : 216
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Mixon's Community Care Home             
Mailing Address : Rt. 3, Roof Rd.          
                : Blythewood, SC       
       Location : Rt. 3, Roof Rd.               
                : Blythewood, SC  29016
          Phone : 735-1654
          Owner : James Mixon                        
  Administrator : James Mixon              
 License Number : 24 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Morris Community Care Home              
Mailing Address : 429 Rockhaven Dr.        
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 429 Rockhaven Dr.             
                : Columbia, SC  29223
          Phone : 788-6819
          Owner : Corrine Morris                     
  Administrator : Corrine Morris           
 License Number : 261
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Murry's Community Care Home             
Mailing Address : 5318 N. Main St.         
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 5318 N. Main St.              
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 788-5898
          Owner : Edward Murry                       
  Administrator : Edward & Annie Murry     
 License Number : 208
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Nissen Community Care Home              
Mailing Address : 929 Suber St.            
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 929 Suber St.                 
                : Columbia, SC  29205
          Phone : 782-3571
          Owner : Adolph Nissen                      
  Administrator : Adolph Nissen            
 License Number : 59 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Pinewood Care Home, Inc.                
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 50            
                : Eastover, SC       
       Location : Rt. 2, Box 50                 
                : Eastover, SC  29044
          Phone : 353-2729
          Owner : Pinewood Care Home, Inc.           
  Administrator : Mozell Kelly             
 License Number : 289
    No. of Beds :  30











       Facility : Pondview Community Residential Care     
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 83            
                : Blythewood, SC       
       Location : Hardscrabble Road             
                : Blythewood, SC  29016
          Phone : 735-0420
          Owner : Katherine Thomas                   
  Administrator : Kathy Thomas             
 License Number : 378
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Reese's Community Care Home #1          
Mailing Address : 1203 Muller Ave.         
                : Columbia, SC  29203
       Location : 1203 Muller Ave.              
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 786-1843
          Owner : James Reese                        
  Administrator : James S. Reese           
 License Number : 53 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Reese's Community Care Home #2          
Mailing Address : 717 Cindy Dr.            
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 717 Cindy Dr.                 
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 786-1843
          Owner : James Reese                        
  Administrator : James S. Reese           
 License Number : 54 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : River Drive Community Care Home         
Mailing Address : 2906 River Dr.           
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 2906 River Dr.                
                : Columbia, SC  29201
          Phone : 252-4598
          Owner : Dowling Enterprises, Inc.          
  Administrator : John H. Dowling          
 License Number : 115
    No. of Beds :  15











       Facility : Rose Hill Manor                         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3283           
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : Rt. l, Hwy. 215               
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 786-7720
          Owner :                                    
  Administrator : Briggs & Nelson          
 License Number : 401
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Rouse's Community Care Home #1          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 134, State Pk  
                : Cola, SC  29147
       Location : El Hunter St.                 
                : Cola, SC  29203
          Phone : 788-1753
          Owner : Charlene Rouse                     
  Administrator : Charlene Rouse           
 License Number : 327
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Rouse's Community Care Home #2          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 134, State Pk  
                : Cola, SC  29147
       Location : Rt. 5, Box 92                 
                : Cola, SC  29203
          Phone : 786-9357
          Owner : Charlene Rouse                     
  Administrator : Rudy Wildes              
 License Number : 328
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Rouse's Community Care Home #3          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 134, State Pk  
                : Cola, SC  29147
       Location : Highway 21                    
                : Cola, SC  29202
          Phone : 754-5720
          Owner : George & Charlene Rouse            
  Administrator : Charlie Rouse            
 License Number : 238
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Seasoned Community Care Home            
Mailing Address : 2408 CoCo Dr.            
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 2408 CoCo Dr.                 
                : Columbia, SC  29210
          Phone : 798-0352
          Owner : Bernard Staggers                   
  Administrator : Bernard Staggers         
 License Number : 212
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : Sharpless Boarding Home                 
Mailing Address : 1505 Wynnewood Rd.       
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 1505 Wynnewood Rd.            
                : Columbia, SC  29206
          Phone : 787-7673
          Owner : Elizabeth Sharpless                
  Administrator : Elizabeth Sharpless      
 License Number : 271
    No. of Beds :   2











       Facility : Suber Community Care Home               
Mailing Address : 5412 Middleton St.       
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 5412 Middleton St.            
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 754-0773
          Owner : Annie B. Suber                     
  Administrator : Annie B. Suber           
 License Number : 228
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Thimoleon's Community Care Home         
Mailing Address : 1518 Cola Col Dr.        
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 1518 Columbia College Dr.     
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 754-6288
          Owner : Jessie M. Thimoleon                
  Administrator : Jessie M. Thimoleon      
 License Number : 114
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Walter's Retirement Home                
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 210095         
                : Columbia, SC  29221
       Location : 821 Duke Ave.                 
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 252-8918
          Owner : Delores W. Johnson                 
  Administrator : Delores W. Johnson       
 License Number : 426
    No. of Beds :  20











       Facility : Westside Home for the Aged              
Mailing Address : 507 Piney Grove          
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 507 Piney Grove Rd.           
                : Columbia, SC  29210
          Phone : 772-2216
          Owner : T. Kenly, T. Able & C. Curry       
  Administrator : Telicious F.Kenly        
 License Number : 246
    No. of Beds :  32











       Facility : Whitaker's Community Care Home          
Mailing Address : 79 Sal Sue Ct            
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 79 Sal Sue Court              
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 786-8561
          Owner : Annie M. W. Murry & Edward Murry   
  Administrator : Annie M. W. Murry        
 License Number : 210
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Williams Community Residential Care     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 90031          
                : Columbia, SC       
       Location : 7705 Richard St.              
                : Columbia, SC  29209
          Phone : 254-6611
          Owner : Charles A. Williams, Sr.           
  Administrator : Charles A. Williams, Sr. 
 License Number : 280
    No. of Beds :   5







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RICHLAND - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                RICHLAND - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Richland Convalescent Center, Inc.      
Mailing Address : P. O. Drawer 4600           
                : Columbia, SC  29240
       Location : 4112 Hartford St.             
                : Columbia, SC  29240
          Phone : 754-4203
          Owner : Richland Convalescent Center, Inc.      
  Administrator : Claudia Waits            
 License Number : ICF105
   Beds - Total :  152
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :  152





       Facility : Stanton Pines Convalescent Home Inc.    
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 241              
                : Hopkins, SC  29061
       Location : 124 Ridge Rd.                 
                : Hopkins, SC  29061
          Phone : 776-3536
          Owner : Stanton Pines Convalescent Home, Inc.   
  Administrator : James E. Stanton         
 License Number : ICF34 
   Beds - Total :   26
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   26





       Facility : Woodrow ICF                             
Mailing Address : 1625 College St.            
                : Columbia, SC  29208
       Location : Green St.                     
                : Columbia, SC  29208
          Phone : 777-6742
          Owner : USC                                     
  Administrator : Dr. Marilyn B. Chassie   
 License Number : ICF166
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RICHLAND - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    RICHLAND - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Brian Center of Nursing Care-Columbia   
Mailing Address : 2451 Forest Dr.             
                : Columbia, SC  29204
       Location : 2451 Forest Dr.               
                : Columbia, SC  29204
          Phone : 254-5960
          Owner : Brian Center of Central Cola., Inc.     
  Administrator : Louise M. Linder         
 License Number : NCF423
   Beds - Total :  257
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  146
     Beds - Icf :  111





       Facility : C. M. Tucker, Jr. Human Resources Ctr.  
Mailing Address : 2200 Harden St.             
                : Columbia, SC  29203
       Location : 2200 Harden St.               
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 737-5302
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. H.                    
  Administrator : Charles N. Still, M.D.   
 License Number : NCF334
   Beds - Total :  608
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :  100
    Beds - Dual :   50
     Beds - Icf :  458





       Facility : Capitol Convalescent Center             
Mailing Address : 300l Beechaven Dr.          
                : Columbia, SC  29204
       Location : 3001 Beechaven Dr.            
                : Columbia, SC  29204
          Phone : 782-4363
          Owner : White Oak Manor, Inc.                   
  Administrator : Anne O. Winn             
 License Number : NCF280
   Beds - Total :  120
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  120
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Dowdy-Gardner Nursing Care Ctr.-Farmer  
Mailing Address : 7901 Farrow Rd.             
                : Columbia, SC  29203
       Location : 7901 Farrow Rd.               
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 737-7802
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. H.                    
  Administrator : Thomas Cordan            
 License Number : NCF424
   Beds - Total :  166
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  166
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Dowdy-Gardner Nursing Care Ctr.-McLendon
Mailing Address : 7901 Farrow Rd.             
                : Columbia, SC  29203
       Location : 7901 Farrow Rd.               
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 737-7802
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. H.                    
  Administrator : Shielda Friendly         
 License Number : NCF428
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  132
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Manor Care - Columbia                   
Mailing Address : 2601 Forest Dr.             
                : Columbia, SC  29204
       Location : 2601 Forest Dr.               
                : Columbia, SC  29204
          Phone : 256-4983
          Owner : Manor Care - Columbia, Inc.             
  Administrator : Joyce M. Pyle            
 License Number : NCF316
   Beds - Total :  118
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   64
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   54





       Facility : Mary E. White Developmental Center      
Mailing Address : 8301 Farrow Rd.             
                : Columbia, SC  29203
       Location : 8301 Farrow Rd.               
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 758-4432
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Alice R. Tollison        
 License Number : NCF383
   Beds - Total :  112
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  112
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : The Lowman Home-Wynne C. Bolick         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 444               
                : White Rock, SC  29177
       Location : P. O. Box 444                 
                : White Rock, SC  29177
          Phone : 732-3000
          Owner : S. C. Synod Luthern Church of America   
  Administrator : Dr. K. J. Webb           
 License Number : NCF339
   Beds - Total :  129
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   85
     Beds - Icf :   44

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Richland County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RICHLAND - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                RICHLAND - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Carter St. Group Home                   
Mailing Address : PO Box 3817, Cola           
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : 1203 Carter St.               
                : Columbia, SC  29204
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Babcock Ctr., Inc.                      
  Administrator : Jon Bradford             
 License Number : M1547 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

       Facility : Dowdy-Gardner Nursing Care-Bldg. 16     
Mailing Address : 7901 Farrow Rd.             
                : Columbia, SC  29203
       Location : 7901 Farrow Rd.               
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 758-4026
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. H.                    
  Administrator : Willie Cantey            
 License Number : IMR443
   Beds - Total :   80
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   80





       Facility : First Midlands ICMRF                    
Mailing Address : 830l Farrow Rd.             
                : Columbia, SC  29203
       Location : 8301 Farrow Rd.               
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 758-4432
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Dorothea Friday          
 License Number : IMR103
   Beds - Total :  368
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :  368





       Facility : Pine Lake ICMRF                         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817              
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : 140 Flora Rd.                 
                : Columbia, SC  29223
          Phone : 788-7872
          Owner : Pine Lake Inc.                          
  Administrator : Katherine H. Bradley     
 License Number : IMR100
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   44





       Facility : Second Midlands ICMRF                   
Mailing Address : 8301 Farrow Rd.             
                : Columbia, SC  29203
       Location : 8301 Farrow Rd.               
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 758-4432
          Owner : S.C. Dept. of M. R.                     
  Administrator : Curtis Murph             
 License Number : IMR109
   Beds - Total :  240
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :  240



       Facility : Archie Drive Group Home                 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817              
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : 33 Archie Drive               
                : Columbia, SC  29204
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Babcock Ctr., Inc.                      
  Administrator : Jon Bradford             
 License Number : M1536 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Kensington I Group Home                 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817              
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : 100 Kensington Rd.            
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Babcock Ctr., Inc.                      
  Administrator : Jon Bradford             
 License Number : M1538 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Kensington II Group Home                
Mailing Address : P. O.Box 3817               
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : 120 Kensington Rd.            
                : Columbia, SC  29203
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Babcock Ctr., Inc.                      
  Administrator : Jon Bradford             
 License Number : M1539 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Timberlane Drive Community Residence    
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817              
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : 4246 Timberlane Dr.           
                : Columbia, SC  29205
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Babcock Center, Inc.                    
  Administrator : Jon D. Bradford          
 License Number : M1559 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Woodlawn Group Home                     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817              
                : Columbia, SC  29230
       Location : 1400 Woodlawn Ave.            
                : Columbia, SC  29209
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Babcock Ctr., Inc.                      
  Administrator : Jon Bradford             
 License Number : M1537 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Saluda County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SALUDA - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                SALUDA - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Long's Community Care Home #1           
Mailing Address : Rt. 4, Box 154           
                : Saluda, SC       
       Location : Rt. 4, Box 154                
                : Saluda, SC  29138
          Phone : 445-2921
          Owner : Ora MaeLong                        
  Administrator : Janet Long               
 License Number : 95 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Long's Community Care Home #2           
Mailing Address : Rt. 4, Box 154           
                : Saluda, SC       
       Location : Rt. 4, Box 154                
                : Saluda, SC  29138
          Phone : 445-7705
          Owner : Ora Mae Long                       
  Administrator : Janet Long               
 License Number : 96 
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : North Main Community Care #1            
Mailing Address : 414 N. Main St.          
                : Saluda, SC       
       Location : 414 N. Main St.               
                : Saluda, SC  29138
          Phone : 445-2315
          Owner : Kathy Ergle                        
  Administrator : Kathy Ergle              
 License Number : 286
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : North Main Community Care #2            
Mailing Address : 205 Denny Rd.            
                : Saluda, SC       
       Location : 205 Denny Rd.                 
                : Saluda, SC  29138
          Phone : 445-7832
          Owner : Jerry Rogers                       
  Administrator : Kathy Ergle              
 License Number : 410
    No. of Beds :   8







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Saluda County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SALUDA - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                     
-DOC-
                     SALUDA - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Saluda Nursing Center                   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 398               
                : Saluda, SC  29138
       Location : Hwy. 121                      
                : Saluda, SC  29138
          Phone : 445-2146
          Owner : Saluda Nursing Ctr. Board of Directors  
  Administrator : Robert F. Bowles         
 License Number : NCF265
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :   44

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Saluda County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Saluda
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                          Heritage Court Apartments
                           425 South Church Street
                           Spartanburg, S.C.  29301
                                (803) 585-8595
                              Spartanburg County

Contact Person:...............................Hardwick/Elaine Hatcher, Site
                                              Managers
Proportion of residents from other states:....Very small portion
Residential capacity..........................296
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 148 apartments
Description of Units.................. Low rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. No paid security system
Safety features of unit............... Hand rails in halls, bathroom grab bars
                                       smoke alarms, sprinkler system,
                                       emergency buzzers
Handicapped accommodations............ 15 handicapped designed units
Visitor tour available................ Must be accompanied by tenant/manager
Financial soundness information shared:  Literature
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Monthly newsletter, one-on-one basis,
                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Must able to live independently
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... By income
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Determined by circumstances
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... None, unless otherwise covered in lease
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Depends on whether a physician produces 
                                       a statement concerning the temporary 
                                       basis
                              White Oak Estates
                         PO Box 3372, 400 Webber Road
                            Spartanburg, SC  29302
                                (803) 579-7004
                              Spartanburg County

Contact Person:...............................Oliver Cecil, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....Estimated to be greater than
                                              25%
Residential capacity..........................244
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 78
Description of Units.................. Two bedroom apartment units
Nursing home ......................... YES, 88 beds
Units purchased or rented              Rented
Security provisions .................. 24hr security
Safety features of unit............... Nurse call system, grab bars in
                                       bathroom, smoke alarms
Handicapped accommodations............ Ground floor entry, handicap units
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Years company in business
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident association

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Health status
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges................... YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Limited to CPI increases in any
                                       year
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Discharge
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Continue rental fee or release apt.,
                                       10 days free stay per year
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ As long as monthly fee paid
                                 Skylyn Hall
                              1705 Skylyn Drive
                            Spartanburg, SC  29302
                                (803) 582-6838
                              Spartanburg County

Contact Person:...............................Rev. C. Ben Smith
Proportion of residents from other states:....6%
Residential capacity..........................384
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 240
Description of Units.................. One, two, and three bedrooms apartments
Nursing home ......................... YES, 44 skilled & intermediate beds
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Security 24hrs a day
                                       Gate to parking lot monitored
Safety features of unit............... Smoke detector in each apartment
                                       Sprinkler head in each room
                                       Emergency call system to security office
Handicapped accommodations............ Doors access wheelchairs
                                       Twelve apartments for handicapped
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared.private conference
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Weekly meeting is held with all        
                                       residents and representatives
                                       from administration

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 55yrs of age ambulatory/ no need for 
                                         daily physician care
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Pre-determined by a financial          
                                         feasibility study
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... No policy, other than "fee for service"
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... If for long term care, vacate apartment
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ 30 days per year at no additional other 
                                        than monthly charges









INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPARTANBURG - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS              
-DOC-
              SPARTANBURG - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Benchmark Home - Spartanburg            
Mailing Address : 195 Burdette St.         
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
       Location : 450 W. Henry St.              
                : Spartanburg, SC  29301
          Phone : 585-0322
          Owner : Charles Lea Ctr. for Rehab etc.    
  Administrator : Loren Libby              
 License Number : 404
    No. of Beds :  13











       Facility : Camelot II                              
Mailing Address : 124 Knollwood Dr.        
                : Spartanburg, SC       
       Location : 124 Knollwood Drive           
                : Spartanburg, SC  29301
          Phone : 576-8351
          Owner : Murry Medical Manor, Inc.          
  Administrator : Paul E. Murray           
 License Number : 341
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Cannon Manor Boarding Home              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 5348           
                : Spartanburg, SC  29304
       Location : 366 Alexander Avenue          
                : Spartanburg, SC  29301
          Phone : 585-3962
          Owner : Cannon Manor, Inc.                 
  Administrator : John R. Cannon           
 License Number : 225
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Crest Haven Community Care Home         
Mailing Address : 259 Old Spart. Rd.       
                : Lyman, SC       
       Location : 259 Old Spartanburg Road      
                : Lyman, SC  29365
          Phone : 439-8884
          Owner : Alice S. Pearson                   
  Administrator : Alice S. Pearson         
 License Number : 211
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Geneva and Curtis Residential Care Fac. 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 204            
                : Spartanburg, SC       
       Location : 152 Palisade St.              
                : Spartanburg, SC  29304
          Phone : 583-9419
          Owner : Geneva C. Whitmire                 
  Administrator : Geneva C. Whitmire       
 License Number : 215
    No. of Beds :  46











       Facility : Green Acres                             
Mailing Address : 750 Fulton Ave.          
                : Spartanburg, SC  29303
       Location : 750 Fulton Ave.               
                : Spartanburg, SC  29303
          Phone : 583-7759
          Owner : Fratie F. Linzner                  
  Administrator : Fratie F. Linzner        
 License Number : 214
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Hall's Residential Care Facility        
Mailing Address : Rt. 7, Box 422 FF        
                : Spartanburg, SC       
       Location : New Cut Rd.                   
                : Spartanburg, SC  29303
          Phone : 582-6926
          Owner : Doris G. Hall                      
  Administrator : Doris G. Hall            
 License Number : 384
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : Inman Boarding Home                     
Mailing Address : 51 N. Main St.           
                : Inman, SC       
       Location : 51 North Main St.             
                : Inman, SC  29349
          Phone : 472-9370
          Owner : Mrs. C. Welton Johnson             
  Administrator : Henry A. Johnson         
 License Number : 226
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Marantha Manor I                        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 2847           
                : Spartanburg, SC  29304
       Location : 2902 E. Main St., Ext.        
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
          Phone : 579-0086
          Owner : Joyce G. Wood & J. Renee Ward      
  Administrator : Joyce G. Ward            
 License Number : 152
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Marantha Manor II                       
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 2847           
                : Spartanburg, SC  29304
       Location : 2902 E. Main St., Ext.        
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
          Phone : 579-4588
          Owner : Joyce G. Ward & J. Renee Ward      
  Administrator : Joyce G. Ward            
 License Number : 45 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Marantha Manor III                      
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 2847           
                : Spartanburg, SC  29304
       Location : 2902 E. Main St., Ext.        
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
          Phone : 579-0086
          Owner : Joyce G. Ward & J. Renee Ward      
  Administrator : Joyce G. Ward            
 License Number : 277
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Midway Adult Res. Care Facility #1A     
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 51            
                : Moore, SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 51                 
                : Moore, SC  29369
          Phone : 439-4775
          Owner : Cantrell/Walker/Burnett            
  Administrator : James J. Cantrell        
 License Number : 320
    No. of Beds :  14











       Facility : Midway Adult Res. Care Facility #2      
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 51            
                : Moore, SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 51                 
                : Moore, SC  29369
          Phone : 439-4775
          Owner : Cantrell/Walker/Burnett            
  Administrator : James J. Cantrell        
 License Number : 321
    No. of Beds :  25











       Facility : Midway Adult Res. Care Facility #3      
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 51            
                : Moore, SC  29369
       Location : Rt. 1, Box 51                 
                : Moore, SC  29369
          Phone : 439-4775
          Owner : James J. Cantrell                  
  Administrator : James J. Cantrell        
 License Number : 346
    No. of Beds :  19











       Facility : Midway Adult Res. Care Facility #4      
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 51            
                : Moore, SC       
       Location : Rt. 1, Box 51                 
                : Moore, SC  29369
          Phone : 477-4775
          Owner : Cantrell/Burnett/Walker            
  Administrator : James J. Cantrell        
 License Number : 322
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : Midway Residential Care Facility #1     
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 51            
                : Moore, SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 541                
                : Moore, SC  29369
          Phone : 439-4775
          Owner : Cantrell/Burnett/Walker            
  Administrator : James J. Cantrell        
 License Number : 318
    No. of Beds :  13











       Facility : Oakridge Community Care Home            
Mailing Address : Rt. 6, Box 299           
                : Inman, SC       
       Location : Crompton River Bridge Rd.     
                : Inman, SC  29349
          Phone : 472-6979
          Owner : Oakridge Community Care Home, Inc. 
  Administrator : Robecca Laughter         
 License Number : 241
    No. of Beds :  30











       Facility : Oakridge Community Care Home #2         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 326            
                : Inman, SC  29349
       Location : 35 South Howard St.           
                : Inman, SC  29349
          Phone : 472-6979
          Owner : Oakridge Community Care Home, Inc. 
  Administrator : Rebecca Laughter         
 License Number : 429
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Quite Spot                              
Mailing Address : 729 Fulton Ave.          
                : Spartanburg, SC       
       Location : 729 Fulton Ave.               
                : Spartanburg, SC  29303
          Phone : 583-7759
          Owner : Fratie F. Linzner                  
  Administrator : Fratie F. Linzner        
 License Number : 207
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Reid's Boarding Home #1                 
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 100           
                : Wellford, SC       
       Location : Old Hwy. 29                   
                : Wellford, SC  29385
          Phone : 439-9238
          Owner : David & Betty Reid & Judy Daniel   
  Administrator : Judy C. Daniels          
 License Number : 273
    No. of Beds :  23











       Facility : Reid's Boarding Home #2                 
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 100           
                : Wellford, SC       
       Location : Old Hwy. 29                   
                : Wellford, SC  29385
          Phone : 439-9238
          Owner : David & Betty Reid & Judy Daniels  
  Administrator : Judy C. Daniel           
 License Number : 274
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Rosedale Community Care Home            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 363            
                : Campobello, SC       
       Location : 107 Montgomery St.            
                : Campobello, SC  29322
          Phone : 472-6191
          Owner : John D. Garland                    
  Administrator : John D. Garland          
 License Number : 74 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Shady Oak Boarding Home                 
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Hwy. 150          
                : Pacolet, SC  29372
       Location : Rt. 1, Hwy. 150               
                : Pacolet, SC  29372
          Phone : 474-9556
          Owner : Bonnie Petty and Aughtry Hyatt     
  Administrator : Aughtry Hyatt            
 License Number : 419
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : White Oak Estates, Inc.                 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3372           
                : Spartanburg, SC  29304
       Location : 400 Webber Rd.                
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
          Phone : 582-7503
          Owner : White Oak Estates, Inc.            
  Administrator : Oliver K. Cecil, Jr.     
 License Number : 436
    No. of Beds :  44











       Facility : Winn's Residential Care                 
Mailing Address : 137 Millwood Dr.         
                : Spartanburg, SC       
       Location : 137 Millwood Dr.              
                : Spartanburg, SC  29301
          Phone : 583-8818
          Owner : Barbara W. Winn & Daniel Winn, Jr. 
  Administrator : Barbara W. Winn          
 License Number : 298
    No. of Beds :   8







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPARTANBURG - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES              
-DOC-
              SPARTANBURG - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : C. W. Johnson ICF, Inc.                 
Mailing Address : 82 N. Main St.              
                : Inman, SC  29349
       Location : 82 N. Main St.                
                : Inman, SC  29349
          Phone : 472-6636
          Owner : C. W. Johnson ICF, Inc.                 
  Administrator : Timothy A. Johnson       
 License Number : ICF126
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   44





       Facility : Camp Care, Inc.                         
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 847                
                : Inman, SC  29349
       Location : 84 Blackstock Rd.             
                : Inman, SC  29349
          Phone : 472-2028
          Owner : Camp Care Inc.                          
  Administrator : Carol N. Camp            
 License Number : ICF133
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   88

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPARTANBURG - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                  
-DOC-
                  SPARTANBURG - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Camphaven Nursing Home                  
Mailing Address : Rt 4, Box 1                 
                : Inman, SC  29349
       Location : 63 Blackstock Rd.             
                : Inman, SC  29349
          Phone : 472-9055
          Owner : Service Management, Inc.                
  Administrator : William R. Camp, Jr.     
 License Number : NCF403
   Beds - Total :  176
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  176
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Inman Nursing Home                      
Mailing Address : Post Office Box 266         
                : Inman, SC  29349
       Location : 51 N. Main Street             
                : Inman, SC  29349
          Phone : 472-9370
          Owner : Inman Nursing Facilities, Inc.          
  Administrator : H. Wayne Johnson         
 License Number : NCF195
   Beds - Total :   40
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   40
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Lakeview Nursing Center                 
Mailing Address : Rt. 13, Hwy. 585            
                : Spartanburg, SC  29303
       Location : Smith Road                    
                : Spartanburg, SC  29303
          Phone : 578-2560
          Owner : Kale Health Care Facility. LTD          
  Administrator : Nancy Zahoranski         
 License Number : NCF324
   Beds - Total :   52
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   52
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Mountainview Nursing Home               
Mailing Address : 340 Cedar Sprg Rd.          
                : Spartg, SC  29302
       Location : 340 Cedar Springs Rd.         
                : Spartg, SC  29302
          Phone : 583-4175
          Owner : Community Services for the Aging, Inc.  
  Administrator : Wilson K. Dillard        
 License Number : NCF149
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :   44





       Facility : Pinewood Convalescent Center            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 4l27, Sta B       
                : Spartg, SC  29303
       Location : 375 Serpentine Dr.            
                : Spartg, SC  29303
          Phone : 585-0218
          Owner : Service Management, Inc.                
  Administrator : Geraldine G. Finch       
 License Number : NCF369
   Beds - Total :   95
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   95
~r     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Spartanburg Convalescent Center Inc.    
Mailing Address : 295 E. Pearl St.            
                : Spartanburg, SC  29303
       Location : 295 East Pearl St.            
                : Spartanburg, SC  29303
          Phone : 585-0241
          Owner : White Oak Manor, Inc.                   
  Administrator : Barbara H. Adams         
 License Number : NCF246
   Beds - Total :  192
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  148
     Beds - Icf :   44





       Facility : White Oak Estates                       
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3372              
~r                : Spartanburg, SC  29304
       Location : 400 Webber Rd.                
                : Spartanburg, SC  29304
          Phone : 582-7503
          Owner : White Oak Estates, Inc.                 
  Administrator : B. Terrell Ball          
 License Number : NCF466
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Woodruff Health Care                    
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 879               
                : Woodruff, SC  29388
       Location : Road 50                       
                : Woodruff, SC  29388
          Phone : 476-64l3
          Owner : Cathcart and Associates, Inc.           
  Administrator : Martha G. Cathcart       
 License Number : NCF462
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Spartanburg County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPARTANBURG - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION               
-DOC-
               SPARTANBURG - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Benchmark Homes - Cowpens               
Mailing Address : 195 Burdette St.            
                : Cowpens, SC  29302
       Location : 204 Goforth St.               
                : Cowpens, SC  29330
          Phone : 585-0322
          Owner : Charles Lea Center                      
  Administrator : Roy B. Williams          
 License Number : M15 60
   Beds - Total :   12
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   12





       Facility : J. D. Ferguson Community Residence #1   
Mailing Address : 195 Burdette St.            
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
       Location : 123 Park Place                
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
          Phone : 585-9504
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Roy B. Williams          
 License Number : M15 62
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : J. D. Ferguson Community Residence #2   
Mailing Address : 195 Burdette St.            
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
       Location : 123 Park Place                
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
          Phone : 585-9504
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Roy B. Williams          
 License Number : M15 63
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Spartanburg Community Residence #1      
Mailing Address : 195 Burdette St.            
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
       Location : 29 Long Dr.                   
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
          Phone : 585-0322
          Owner : Charles Lea Ctr Rehab & Spec. Ed., Inc. 
  Administrator : Loren L. Libby           
 License Number : M1517 
   Beds - Total :   15
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   15





       Facility : Spartanburg Community Residence #2      
Mailing Address : 195 Burdette St.            
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
       Location : 29 Long Dr.                   
                : Spartanburg, SC  29302
          Phone : 585-0322
          Owner : Charles Lea Ctr Rehab & Spec. Ed., Inc. 
  Administrator : Loren L. Libby           
 License Number : M1518 
   Beds - Total :   15
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   15

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Sumter County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUMTER - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                SUMTER - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Atkinson East Community Residence       
Mailing Address : 13 Kendrick St.          
                : Sumter, SC  29150
       Location : 13 Kendrick St.               
                : Sumter, SC  29150
          Phone : 775-9466
          Owner : Sumter Cty. MR Board               
  Administrator : Marie D. McDaniel        
 License Number : 99 
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Atkinson West Community Residence       
Mailing Address : 162 Community St.        
                : Sumter, SC  29150
       Location : 162 Community St.             
                : Sumter, SC  29150
          Phone : 775-9466
          Owner : Sumter Cty. MR Board               
  Administrator : Marie D. McDaniel        
 License Number : 104
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Brown's Rest Home                       
Mailing Address : 1009 Collins             
                : Sumter, SC       
       Location : 1009 Collins St.              
                : Sumter, SC  29150
          Phone : 775-4194
          Owner : Lucy Brown                         
  Administrator : Lucy Brown               
 License Number : 178
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : H & H Moses Residential Care Facility   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 54             
                : Borden, SC  29150
       Location : Highway 76                    
                : Borden, SC  29017
          Phone : 499-4762
          Owner : Henrietta Moses                    
  Administrator : Henrietta Moses          
 License Number : 72 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Johnson's Community Care Home           
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 101 B         
                : Rembert, SC  29128
       Location : Route 2                       
                : Rembert, SC       
          Phone : 499-4570
          Owner : Pauline Johnson                    
  Administrator : Pauline Johnson          
 License Number : 342
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Liberty House                           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 39             
                : Sumter, SC       
       Location : 221 West Liberty St.          
                : Sumter, SC  29150
          Phone : 775-6815
          Owner : Sumter County Commission on ADA    
  Administrator : Donald R. Walters        
 License Number : 395
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : McElveen's Family Care Home             
Mailing Address : Rt. 8, Box 370           
                : Sumter, SC       
       Location : Rt. 8, Box 370                
                : Sumter, SC  29150
          Phone : 773-5397
          Owner : Rosa L. McElveen & Randolph Hennix 
  Administrator : Randolph Hennix          
 License Number : 377
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Rhames Home for the Elderly             
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 979           
                : Pinewood, SC       
       Location : Rt. 2, Box 979                
                : Pinewood, SC  29125
          Phone : 452-5734
          Owner : Theresa W. Rhames                  
  Administrator : Theresa W. Rhames        
 License Number : 21 
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Samuel's Residential Care Facility      
Mailing Address : 936 Samuels St.          
                : Sumter, SC       
       Location : 936 Samuels St.               
                : Sumter, SC  29150
          Phone : 775-4165
          Owner : Bertha Samuel                      
  Administrator : Bertha Samuel            
 License Number : 262
    No. of Beds :  30











       Facility : Wilson Residential Care Facility        
Mailing Address : Rt. 2, Box 81 B          
                : Rembert, SC       
       Location : Rt. 2, Box 81 B               
                : Rembert, SC  29128
          Phone : 499-3025
          Owner : Gertrude Wilson                    
  Administrator : Gertrude Wilson          
 License Number : 168
    No. of Beds :   2







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUMTER - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                 
-DOC-
                 SUMTER - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Community ICF                           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 6051              
                : Sumter, SC  29150
       Location : 703 Broad Street              
                : Sumter, SC  29150
          Phone : 773-6525
          Owner : Community ICF, Inc.                     
  Administrator : Harold Hallums           
 License Number : ICF3  
   Beds - Total :   20
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   20





       Facility : Hopewell Healthcare Center              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 818               
                : Sumter, SC  29151
       Location : 1761 Pinewood Rd.             
                : Sumter, SC  29l50
          Phone : 481-8591
          Owner : National Healthcare Ctr. of Sumter, Inc.
  Administrator : Mayes P. Warr            
 License Number : ICF175
   Beds - Total :   96
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   96

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUMTER - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                     
-DOC-
                     SUMTER - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Cypress Nursing Facility                
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 1526               
                : Sumter, SC  29151
       Location : Carolina Ave.                 
                : Sumter, SC  29151
          Phone : 775-5394
          Owner : Cypress Nursing Facility, Inc.          
  Administrator : Linda Charpentier        
 License Number : NCF360
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   88
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Hampton Nursing Center, Inc.            
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 1568               
                : Sumter, SC  29151
       Location : Miller Road                   
                : Sumter, SC  29151
          Phone : 775-8376
          Owner : Hampton Nursing Center, Inc.            
  Administrator : Danny Charpentier        
 License Number : NCF305
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : National Health Care of Sumter          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1524              
                : Sumter, SC  29151
       Location : 1018 N. Guignard Dr.          
                : Sumter, SC  29150
          Phone : 773-5567
          Owner : National Health Care Ctr. of Sumter Inc.
  Administrator : Mayes P. Warr            
 License Number : NCF446
   Beds - Total :  100
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  100
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Sumter County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUMTER - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                 
-DOC-
                 SUMTER - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Thomas Drive Community Residence        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3209              
                : Sumter, SC  29502
       Location : 4 Thomas Drive                
                : Sumter, SC  29150
          Phone : 669-3661
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Fred Fuller              
 License Number : M15 73
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Union County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
UNION - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                 
-DOC-
                 UNION - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed community residential centers in Union County.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Union County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
}i                     UNION - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
-DOC-
}i                     UNION - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Ellen Sagar Nursing Home                
Mailing Address : Route 4, Highway 176        
                : Union, SC  29379
       Location : Hwy 176 North Rt.4            
                : Union, SC  29379
          Phone : 427-9533
          Owner : Union Hospital District Board           
  Administrator : Leo M. Newton            
 License Number : NCF217
   Beds - Total :   64
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   64
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Oakmont of Union                        
Mailing Address : 201 Rice St. Ext.           
                : Union, SC  29379
       Location : 201 Rice St. Ext.             
                : Union, SC  29379
          Phone : 427-0306
          Owner : Health Care & Retirement Corp of America
  Administrator : Frances A. Harvey        
 License Number : NCF443
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :   44

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Union County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Union
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Williamsburg County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WILLIAMSBURG - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS             
-DOC-
             WILLIAMSBURG - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Gordon Residential Care #2              
Mailing Address : Rt. 4                    
                : Cades, SC       
       Location : Rt. 4                         
                : Cades, SC  29518
          Phone : 354-6214
          Owner : Susie M. & Rev. B. J. Gordon, Jr.  
  Administrator : Susie M. Gordon          
 License Number : 325
    No. of Beds :   5











       Facility : Gordon's Residential Care #1            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 147            
                : Salters, SC       
       Location : Hwy. 521                      
                : Salters, SC  29590
          Phone : 387-6322
          Owner : Susie M. & Rev. B. J. Gordon, Jr.  
  Administrator : Rev. B. J. Gordon        
 License Number : 16 
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Kingstree Residential Care Facility     
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 359            
                : Kingstree, SC       
       Location : 209 Academy St.               
                : Kingstree, SC  29556
          Phone : 354-6116
          Owner : Carlyle Cooke                      
  Administrator : Carlyle Cooke            
 License Number : 308
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Sarah's Adult Care Facility             
Mailing Address : 727 Wheeler St.          
                : Kingstree, SC       
       Location : 727 Wheeler St.               
                : Kingstree, SC  29556
          Phone : 354-7917
          Owner : Lillie Rivers                      
  Administrator : Lillie Rivers            
 License Number : 117
    No. of Beds :   4











       Facility : Sunny Pines Community Residential Care  
Mailing Address : Rt. 3, Box 317-F         
                : Andrews, SC       
       Location : Rt. 3, Box 317-F              
                : Andrews, SC  29510
          Phone : 221-7436
          Owner : Mattie H. Durousseau               
  Administrator : Mattie H. Durousseau     
 License Number : 98 
    No. of Beds :  18











       Facility : Williamsburg Residential Care Facility  
Mailing Address : 612 Adams St.            
                : Kingstree, SC       
       Location : 612 Adams St.                 
                : Kingstree, SC  29556
          Phone : 354-6214
          Owner : Rev. B. J. & Susie M. Gordon       
  Administrator : Rev. B. J. Gordon        
 License Number : 38 
    No. of Beds :  24







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Williamsburg County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WILLIAMSBURG - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                  
-DOC-
                  WILLIAMSBURG - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Kingstree Nursing Facility, Inc.        
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 359                
                : Kingstree, SC  29556
       Location : 110 Mill Street               
                : Kingstree, SC  29556
          Phone : 354-6116
          Owner : Kingstree Nursing Fac., Inc.            
  Administrator : Carlyle Cooke            
 License Number : NCF398
   Beds - Total :   70
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :   26
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Williamsburg County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WILLIAMSBURG - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION              
-DOC-
              WILLIAMSBURG - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Kingstree Community Residence           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 820               
                : Kingstree, SC  29556
       Location : Frierson Homes-Lexington      
                : Kingstree, SC  29556
          Phone : 354-9670
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Brent Koyle              
 License Number : M1520 
   Beds - Total :   14
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   14

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                              Westminister Towers
                               751 McDow Drive
                             Rock Hill, SC  29731
                                (803) 329-5121
                                 York County

Contact Person:...............................Bobby Sumner, Marketing Dir.
Proportion of residents from other states:....11%

                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 153
Description of Units.................. High rise (6 story bldg)
Nursing home ......................... YES, has certificate of need for 44 bed 
                                       skilled nursing unit, 11 assisted
                                       living apts.
Units purchased or rented............. Residency fee (life use of apt.)
                                       90% Refundable
Security provisions .................. Security/nurses station 24 hrs/day
Safety features of unit............... Emergency pulls in baths & kitchens, 
                                       smoke detectors, elevators, grab bars
                                       in tub/shower
Handicapped accomodations............. All apts. wheelchair accessible, 
                                       8 fully equipped handicap apts.
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  YES
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident Association

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Youngest person must be 62 yrs old
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. Residency fee must be paid in full when 
                                       community opens and resident takes
                                       occupancy; presently 10% of fee is paid
                                       at the time application is filed
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... At present, based on projected revenues 
                                       and expenses. Future will be be based
                                       on actual operating costs
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Contingent on Board of Dir. decision
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... 15 days per year at no additional 
                                       charge not cumulative; after 15 days,
                                       fee increases to amount set by Board of
                                       Directors.
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Resident's discretion









INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
YORK - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                 
-DOC-
                 YORK - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Bolin's Home for the Aged               
Mailing Address : 334 Hampton St.          
                : Rock Hill, SC       
       Location : 334 Hampton St.               
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 329-1455
          Owner : Dorothy B. Bolin                   
  Administrator : Dorthy B. Bolin          
 License Number : 85 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Catawba Community Care Home             
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 65             
                : Catawba, SC  29704
       Location : Rt. 1, Rowell's Road          
                : Catawba, SC  29704
          Phone : 329-3377
          Owner : Max Jordan & Maxine Giles          
  Administrator : Max Jordan/Maxine Giles  
 License Number : 213
    No. of Beds :  75











       Facility : Ebenezer Residential Care               
Mailing Address : 111 Sedgewood Dr.        
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
       Location : 111 Sedgewood Dr.             
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 329-6565
          Owner : Ebenezer Nursing Home Inc.         
  Administrator : Jack Fallaw              
 License Number : 430
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Fallaw Residential Care                 
Mailing Address : 305 N. Confed.           
                : Rock Hill, SC       
       Location : 305 N. Confederate Ave.       
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 328-1185
          Owner : FRC, Inc.                          
  Administrator : Cheryl H. Fallaw         
 License Number : 294
    No. of Beds :  38











       Facility : Greenwood Community Care Home           
Mailing Address : Rt. 3, Box 132           
                : Rock Hill, SC       
       Location : Rt. 3, Box 132                
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 329-4913
          Owner : Sylvia J. Wright & James E. Wright 
  Administrator : Sylvia J. Wright         
 License Number : 19 
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : Keystone Detoxification Center          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 4437           
                : Rock Hill, SC  29731
       Location : 101 Sedgewood Dr.             
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 324-1800
          Owner : York Cty. Commission on ADA        
  Administrator : Bonnie B. Gladden        
 License Number : 420
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : Lola Home                               
Mailing Address : 421 Hutchison St.        
                : Rock Hill, SC       
       Location : 421 Hutchison St.             
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 328-0902
          Owner : Janice W. Roberts                  
  Administrator : Janice W. Roberts        
 License Number : 12 
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Lucas Street Community Residence        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 10820          
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
       Location : 729 Lucas St.                 
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 324-5161
          Owner : York County MR/DD Board            
  Administrator : Danny L. Hinson          
 License Number : 105
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Rabun Circle Community Residence        
Mailing Address : 558 Rabun Circle         
                : Rock Hill, SC       
       Location : 558 Rabun Circle              
                : Rock Hill, SC  29731
          Phone : 324-5161
          Owner : York County MR/DD Board            
  Administrator : Danny L. Hinson          
 License Number : 189
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Sonshine Village, Inc.                  
Mailing Address : 1765 India Hook          
                : Rock Hill, SC       
       Location : 1765 India Hook Rd.           
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 366-9572
          Owner : Sonshine Village, Inc.             
  Administrator : Patricia A. Dietrich     
 License Number : 265
    No. of Beds :  10







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
YORK - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                  
-DOC-
                  YORK - LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Magnolia Manor North                    
Mailing Address : 127 Murrah Dr.              
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
       Location : 127 Murrah Dr.                
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 324-7591
          Owner : Service Management Incorporated         
  Administrator : J. David Niday           
 License Number : ICF143
   Beds - Total :   62
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :   62

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
YORK - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                      
-DOC-
                      YORK - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Divine Savior Nursing Home              
Mailing Address : Post Off. Box 629           
                : York, SC  29745
       Location : 111 S. Congress Street        
                : York, SC  29745
          Phone : 684-4231
          Owner : Divine Savior Hospital                  
  Administrator : John W. Bailey           
 License Number : NCF211
   Beds - Total :   51
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   51
     Beds - Icf :    0
}i




       Facility : Dowdy Gardner Nursing Care Ctr.         
Mailing Address : 101 Sedgewood Dr.           
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
       Location : 10l Sedgewood Dr.             
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 329-6500
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. H.                    
  Administrator : Doug L. Shuman           
 License Number : NCF463
   Beds - Total :  220
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :  132





       Facility : Ebenezer Nursing Home                   
Mailing Address : 111 Sedgewood Dr.           
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
       Location : 111 Sedgewood Dr.             
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 329-6565
          Owner : Ebenezer Nursing Home, Inc.             
  Administrator : Jack Fallaw              
 License Number : NCF464
   Beds - Total :   37
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
q     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   37
     Beds - Icf :    0





       Facility : Meadow Haven Nursing Center             
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 4478 CRS          
                : Rock Hill, SC  29731
       Location : 205 S. Herlong Ave.           
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 366-7133
          Owner : Beverly Enterprises - S. C., Inc.       
  Administrator : James J. Burke           
 License Number : NCF374
   Beds - Total :  132
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :   88





       Facility : Rock Hill Convalescent Center, Inc.     
Mailing Address : 1915 Ebenezer Rd.           
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
       Location : 1915 Ebenezer Rd.             
                : Rock Hill, SC  29730
          Phone : 366-8155
          Owner : White Oak Manor, Inc.                   
  Administrator : Stephani G. Johnson      
 License Number : NCF318
   Beds - Total :  141
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  141
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in York County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in York
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES                        
-DOC-
                        ALCOHOL AND DRUG ABUSE SERVICES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                         Mr. John J. Fontana, Director
             Abbeville County Commission on Alcohol and Drug Abuse
                                 P.O. Box 921
                              111 South Main St.
                             Abbeville, SC  29620
                                   459-9661
                                   459-9662

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Program Assistance Line (PAL)                         
-DOC-
                         Program Assistance Line (PAL)
      Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life and Human Development Spec.

    PAL is the statewide information and referral service, established in 1979
under the Lieutenant Governor.  It was set up to help people find the state
agency to best meet their needs.  Housing assistance for the poor and elderly,
job training, health and counseling services for pregnant teens are examples of
the kinds of information available.  A data base on license requirements and
sources of technical assistance for persons starting a small business has
recently been added.  To access PAL call 1-800-922-2221.  From columbia you may
call 734-2050,734-2072, or 734-1864.  If you forget the numbers, the "800"
number is listed in the front of every telephone book in South Carolina.


Source:

    Maria Romero, Director
    PAL
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE SOUTH CAROLINA HANDICAPPED SERVUCES INFORMATION SYSTEM           
-DOC-
          THE SOUTH CAROLINA HANDICAPPED SERVUCES INFORMATION SYSTEM 
  Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life and Human Development Specialist

    The South Carolina Handicapped Services Information system (SCHSIS) is a
computerized information and referral system that provides a central source of
information on services available in South Carolina to handicapped citizens. 
This system contains a wide range of detailed information on services available
from state agencies, hospitals, private associations, voluntary organizations,
support groups and many more. By dialing this toll free number, 1-800-922-1107,
or in Columbia, 777-5732, you can reach a trained counselor who will
immediately (over the phone) help you find the service to meet your specific
needs.  This service is available Monday - Friday, 8:30 a.m.- 5:00 p.m.

                                      
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                               
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist
  
                        Due West Retirement Center
                                 P.O. Box 307
                             Due West, SC  29639
                                (803) 379-2570
                               Abbeville County

Contact Person:...............................Dr. Betty W. Berrios, Dir.
Proportion of residents from other states:....34%
Residential capacity..........................42

                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 42 apartments
Description of Units.................. 12 cluster cottages, 2 duplexes, 3 
                                       detached houses
Nursing home ......................... Contractual agreement with local nursing
                                       home
Units purchased or rented............. Life lease
Security provisions .................. No security personnel, 24 hr live-in 
                                       director
Safety features of unit............... Panic alarms, smoke alarms
Handicapped accommodations............ No steps, handrails, but not 
                                       specifically designed for handicap
                                       persons
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Annual audit shared upon request
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' Council


                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 60 yrs and over, able to care for self,
                                       financially able to pay for services, 
                                       one supplementary policy to medicare
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Recommendations by the Director to the
                                       Board
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... NONE
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay for services/care received
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Temporary basis


This information provided by the JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE, 
Representative Patrick B. Harris, Chairman.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Abbeville County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Abbeville County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Abbeville 
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                               
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS 
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist 
 
                            The Ledges Apartments 
                                  Sikes Hill
                           North Augusta, SC  29841
                                (803) 279-1776
                                 Aiken County

Contact Person:...............................Barbara Foos
Proportion of residents from other states:....Information unavailable
Residential capacity..........................84
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 84
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. Dead bolt locks, entrance/exit locked  
                                       at night, manager resides on side of
                                       facility
Safety features of unit............... Smoke alarm, 2 pull emerg. alarms,
                                       safety bars in tub
Handicapped accommodations............ 4 units w/ lowered shelves, 4 units 
                                       with roll-in showers, all 8 units w/low
                                       light switches and kitchen sink
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Shared as needed
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident meetings, newsletter

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Able to care for self,, over 62 or 
                                       handicapped, income per HUD
                                       requirements - Section 8
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Per HUD regulations
Refund method outlined in contract.... Information unavailable
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... In accordance w/ HUD reg. for Sec. 8
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Resident may cancel lease  w/ 30 day 
                                       notice
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Temporary absences are allowed


/$
                              Croft House, Inc. 
                            356 York Street, N.E.
                               Aiken, SC  29801
                                (803) 648-0771
                                 Aiken County

Contact Person:...............................Elaine Jackson, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....50%
Residential capacity..........................64
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 60 apartments
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. 24 hr security
Safety features of unit............... 2 emergency cords, handrails, 
                                       smoke alarms
Handicapped accommodations............ 8 apartments for handicapped persons
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Resident meeting or notices
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Monthly newsletters, posting notices

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Age, health status
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Income
Refund method outlined in contract.... No refund w/o 30 day notice
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Rent based on income
Residents financial responsibility 
should he/she be transferred to a 
nursing facility...................... Family's decision 
Length of time living unit will be 
maintained in the event of 
temporary nursing home placement...... 3 months 

                                Kalmia Landing 
                                125 Gregg Ave.
                               Aiken, SC  29801
                                (803) 649-5391
                                 Aiken County

Contact Person:...............................Carol Poore
Proportion of residents from other states:....50%
Residential capacity..........................233 upon completion
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 45
Description of Units.................. Condos, patio homes, villas (one level)
Nursing home ......................... NO (Contractual agreement Aiken Nursing
                                       Home)
Units purchased or rented............. Purchased
Security provisions .................. 24 hr secured entrance, electronic gate
                                       same for condo
Safety features of unit............... 24hr life line system, 3 ft. wide 
                                       doorways, buddy system with neighbors
Handicapped accommodations............ No steps
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Upon request
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Homeowner's Association (Corporation 
                                       serves on committee), Resident Advisory
                                       Board

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES, when 90% developed
Eligibility requirements.............. 50+
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. In protective covenant
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... YES
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Lien against
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay both charges
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Owner's/family's discretion
 
                              Croft House, Inc. 
                            356 York Street, N.E.
                               Aiken, SC  29801
                                (803) 648-0771
                                 Aiken County

Contact Person:...............................Elaine Jackson, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....50%
Residential capacity..........................64
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 60 apartments
Description of Units.................. High rise
Nursing home ......................... None
Units purchased or rented............. Rented
Security provisions .................. 24 hr security
Safety features of unit............... 2 emergency cords, handrails, 
                                       smoke alarms
Handicapped accommodations............ 8 apartments for handicapped persons
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Resident meeting or notices
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Monthly newsletters, posting notices

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. Age, health status
Government subsidized................. YES
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Income
Refund method outlined in contract.... No refund w/o 30 day notice
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Rent based on income
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Family's decision
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary 
nursing home placement................ 3 months 
                                Kalmia Landing 
                                125 Gregg Ave.
                               Aiken, SC  29801
                                (803) 649-5391
                                 Aiken County

Contact Person:...............................Carol Poore
Proportion of residents from other states:....50%
Residential capacity..........................233 upon completion
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 45
Description of Units.................. Condos, patio homes, villas (one level)
Nursing home ......................... NO (Contractual agreement Aiken Nursing
                                       Home)
Units purchased or rented............. Purchased
Security provisions .................. 24 hr secured entrance, electronic gate
                                       same for condo
Safety features of unit............... 24hr life line system, 3 ft. wide 
                                       doorways, buddy system with neighbors
Handicapped accommodations............ No steps
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Upon request
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Homeowner's Association (Corporation 
                                       serves on committee), Resident Advisory
                                       Board

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES, when 90% developed
Eligibility requirements.............. 50+
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. In protective covenant
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... YES
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Lien against
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay both charges
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Owner's/family's discretion









INFORMATION PROVIDED BY THE JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING, 
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN. 
 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Aiken County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no retirement centers in Allendale County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALLENDALE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               ALLENDALE - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Oakhurst Community Care #2              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 327            
                : Allendale, SC  29810
       Location : 88 Belle St.                  
                : Allendale, SC  29810
          Phone : 584-4090
          Owner : Woodrow Daniels, Sr.               
  Administrator : Woodrow Daniels, Jr.     
 License Number : 423
    No. of Beds :  20







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Allendale County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ALLENDALE - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                   
-DOC-
                   ALLENDALE - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : John Edward Harter Nursing Center       
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 218                
                : Fairfax, SC  29827
       Location : Hwy 278 W                     
                : Fairfax, SC  29827
          Phone : 632-3311
          Owner : Allendale Hosp. Bd. of Trustees         
  Administrator : M.K. Hiatt               
 License Number : NCF259
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Allendale County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Allendale
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                                Anderson Place
                                 P.O. Box 123
                              Anderson, SC  29622
                                (803) 231-6264
                                Anderson County

Contact Person:...............................Lesley Parks, Exec. Dir.
Proportion of residents from other states:....25%
Residential capacity..........................100
                               SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 70
Description of Units.................. Condominiums
Nursing home ......................... YES
Units purchased or rented............. Life leased
Security provisions .................. 24hr security, one entrance/exit
Safety features of unit............... No steps, fenced areas, smoke alarms,
                                       grab bars, emergency call
Handicapped accommodations............ Doors access wheelchairs 2 units with
                                       ramps
Visitor tour available................ YES, by appointment
Financial soundness information shared:  Information unavailable
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents'Council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 60 yrs of age or older, income,
                                       no communicable disease
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Board of Directors
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Vacate unit
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Information unavailable
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Information unavailable








INFORMATION PROVIDED BY THE JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ANDERSON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               ANDERSON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Alexander's Residential Care Facility   
Mailing Address : 1302 S. McDuffie         
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 1302 S. McDuffie St.          
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 225-6901
          Owner : Robbie Alexander                   
  Administrator : Robbie Alexander         
 License Number : 233
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Connie's Residential Care               
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3744           
                : Anderson, SC  29621
       Location : 303 Hampton Street            
                : Anderson, SC  29621
          Phone : 226-3797
          Owner : Connie S. McCurry                  
  Administrator : Connie S. McCurry        
 License Number : 276
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Fitzgerald's Residential Care Fac. #2   
Mailing Address : 813 S. McDuffie          
                : Andrsn, SC       
       Location : 813 S. McDuffie St.           
                : Andrsn, SC  29621
          Phone : 226-0028
          Owner : Doris Fitzgerald                   
  Administrator : Doris Fitzgerald         
 License Number : 338
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Fitzgerald's Residential Care Facility  
Mailing Address : 8l7 S. McDuffie          
                : Andrsn, SC       
       Location : 817 S. McDuffie St.           
                : Andrsn, SC  29621
          Phone : 226-8852
          Owner : Doris Fitzgerald                   
  Administrator : Doris Fitzgerald         
 License Number : 93 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Kathleen's Community Care Home          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3408           
                : Anderson, SC  29621
       Location : 1115 East River St.           
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 231-7024
          Owner : Kathleen M. Sanders                
  Administrator : Kathleen Sanders         
 License Number : 305
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Pepper's Community Home                 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3378           
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 1111 White St.                
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 225-9921
          Owner : Deborah Jean Pepper                
  Administrator : Deborah J. Pepper        
 License Number : 209
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Sanders Community Care Home #2          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3408           
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 1105 East River St.           
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 231-7024
          Owner : Kathleen M. Sanders                
  Administrator : Kathleen Sanders         
 License Number : 306
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Sanders Community Care Home #3          
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3408           
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 111 E. River St.              
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 231-7024
          Owner : Kathleen M. Sanders                
  Administrator : Kathleen Sanders         
 License Number : 307
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Sanders Residential Care Home           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3408           
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 428 Williamston Rd.           
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 231-7024
          Owner : Kathleen M. Sanders                
  Administrator : Kathleen M. Sanders      
 License Number : 15 
    No. of Beds :  23











       Facility : Senior Citizens Boarding Home           
Mailing Address : 710 Delia St.            
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 710 Delia St.                 
                : Anderson, SC  29621
          Phone : 226-8630
          Owner : Beatrice Wideman                   
  Administrator : Beatrice Wideman         
 License Number : 303
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Starlite Residential Home #1            
Mailing Address : 211 E. Franklin          
                : Anderson, SC  29624
       Location : 211 E. Franklin St.           
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 224-0922
          Owner : Omah D. Franks & Ken D. Nichols    
  Administrator : Omah D. Franks           
 License Number : 196
    No. of Beds :  15











       Facility : Starlite Residential Home #2            
Mailing Address : 701 Elizabeth            
                : Anderson, SC  29624
       Location : 701 Elizabeth St.             
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 224-1207
          Owner : Omah D. Franks & Kenneth D. Nichols
  Administrator : Omah D. Franks           
 License Number : 197
    No. of Beds :  13











       Facility : Wideman's Community Care Center         
Mailing Address : 2206 Bellhaven           
                : Anderson, SC       
       Location : 2206 Bellhaven Rd.            
                : Anderson, SC  29621
          Phone : 225-0930
          Owner : Beatrice Wideman                   
  Administrator : Beatrice Wideman         
 License Number : 319
    No. of Beds :   7







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ANDERSON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    ANDERSON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Anderson Health Care Center             
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 989                
                : Anderson, SC  29622
       Location : 1501 E. Greenville Street     
                : Anderson, SC  29622
          Phone : 226-8356
          Owner : National Health Care                    
  Administrator : Betty Finley             
 License Number : NCF332
   Beds - Total :  202
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  146
     Beds - Icf :   56




{_
       Facility : Ellenburg Nursing Center, Inc.          
Mailing Address : 611 E. Hampton St.          
                : Anderson, SC  29624
       Location : 611 E. Hampton St.            
                : Anderson, SC  29624
          Phone : 226-5054
          Owner : Ellenburg Nursing Center, Inc.          
  Administrator : M.L. Ellenburg           
 License Number : NCF231
   Beds - Total :  176
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   88
     Beds - Icf :   88





       Facility : Latham Nursing Home                     
Mailing Address : 208 James St.               
                : Anderson, SC  29621
       Location : 208 James St.                 
                : Anderson, SC  29621
          Phone : 226-3427
          Owner : Latham Inc.                             
  Administrator : Loneta L. Dunn           
 License Number : NCF192
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :   44
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ANDERSON - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                       
-DOC-
                       ANDERSON - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Anderson County Adult Day Care Center             
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 103                  
                : Anderson, SC  29622
       Location : 4200 Liberty Hwy.             
                : Anderson, SC  29621
          Phone : 225-6525
          Owner : Anderson-Oconee Council on Aging   
  Administrator : Sandra F. Norris         
 License Number : ADC2  
   Participants :  20








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ANDERSON - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                ANDERSON - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Anderson Community Residence            
Mailing Address : 1705 Holly St.              
                : Anderson, SC  29621
       Location : 1705 Holly Street             
                : Anderson, SC  29621
          Phone : 225-9941
          Owner : S. C. Dept. of M. R.                    
  Administrator : Vicki Neely Thompson     
 License Number : M1530 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                                  
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS    
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Bamberg County.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BAMBERG - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                BAMBERG - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Carrigg Manor                           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 124            
                : Bamberg, SC  29003
       Location : Hwy. 301                      
                : Bamberg, SC  29003
          Phone : 245-5404
          Owner : Virginia Carrigg/Peggy Browder     
  Administrator : Virginia H. Carrigg      
 License Number : 47 
    No. of Beds :  22











       Facility : Carrigg Manor II                        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 124            
                : Bamberg, SC  29003
       Location : Hwy. 301 South                
                : Bamberg, SC  29003
          Phone : 245-2552
          Owner : Virginia Carrigg/Peggy Browder     
  Administrator : Virginia H. Carrigg      
 License Number : 222
    No. of Beds :  10







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Bamberg County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BAMBERG - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    BAMBERG - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Bamberg Co. Memorial Nursing Center     
Mailing Address : P.O. Drawer 507             
                : Bamberg, SC  29003
       Location : North McGee Streets           
                : Bamberg, SC  29003
          Phone : 245-4321
          Owner : Bamberg Co. Memorial Nursing Center     
  Administrator : Charles V. Morgan        
 License Number : NCF322
   Beds - Total :   22
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   22
     Beds - Icf :    0

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Bamberg County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Bamberg
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                                  
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS    
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Barnwell County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Abbeville County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

                Presbyterian Home of South Carolina - Columbia
                              700 Da Vega Drive
                             Lexington, SC  29072
                                (803) 796-8700
                               Lexington County

Contact Person:...............................Margaret M. Taylor, Administrator
Proportion of residents from other states:....One of seventy-one
Residential capacity..........................73
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 68
Description of Units.................. 30 rooms, 38 apartments
Nursing home ......................... Other Presbyterian Homes provide such
                                       care when needed
Units purchased or rented............. Fee for service, rent
Security provisions .................. Security at night, 24hr staff-duty/call 
Safety features of unit............... Call system, sprinkler, alarm system
Handicapped accommodations............ Grab bars in bathrooms, some handicapped
                                       designed showers, hallway railings
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Must be requested from corp. office
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' Council

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 65yrs old, ambulatory, member of 
                                       Presbyterian Church USA, able to care
                                       for self
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Board of Trustees
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Non-Presbyterian residents must prove
                                       ability to pay at admission.  
                                       Presbyterian residents supported by 
                                       endowment
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... If in facility's nursing home, pay 
                                       nursing home charges only.  If in
                                       private nursing, pay for both units
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ 30-90 days

              S.C. Episcopal Retirement Community at Still Hopes
                       7th Street off Knox Abbot Drive
                           West Columbia, SC  29169
                                (803) 796-6490
                               Lexington County

Contact Person:...............................Diana Jones, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....16%
Residential capacity..........................78
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 53
Description of Units.................. 30 rooms, 23 duplexes
Nursing home ......................... YES, 25 skilled beds, additional 19 
                                       under construction
Units purchased or rented............. Donated, Rented
Security provisions .................. Night security patrol
Safety features of unit............... Call system, smoke alarms
Handicapped accommodations............ Wheelchair access, bathroom safety
                                       rails, ramps, trained staff
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Audit available to those interested
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Residents' meetings, open-door policy
                                       with administrator

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 55 yrs or older, income, nursing care 
                                       not required
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. YES
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Determined by Board of Directors
Refund method outlined in contract.... YES
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... Community subsidies
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Pay for nursing and living unit, or 
                                       percentage of donation used to offset
                                       nursing fees
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Depends on physician's recommendation


                                 Hulon Greene
                             221 Birchwood Court
                           West Columbia, SC  29169
                                (803) 796-3280
                               Lexington County

Contact Person:...............................Paul Harrington, Director
Proportion of residents from other states:....16%
Residential capacity..........................270
                             SERVICES PROVIDED

Number of Units....................... 270
Description of Units.................. Duplexes, detached houses, condominiums
Nursing home ......................... Contractual agreement with local 
                                       nursing home
Units purchased or rented............. Purchased
Security provisions .................. Roving security plus security gates
Safety features of unit............... Numerous
Handicapped accommodations............ 36 inch doors
Visitor tour available................ YES
Financial soundness information shared:  Information unavailable
Residents' participation in developing
policies and procedures............... Resident committee

                                  CONTRACT

Contractual agreement................. YES
Eligibility requirements.............. 55 yrs of age
Government subsidized................. NO
Entrance/Deposit required............. NO
Procedures for increases and
decreases in charges.................. YES
Specifies services included in monthly
charges and those which require
 additional charges .................. YES
Method for determining monthly
charges............................... Information unavailable
Refund method outlined in contract.... NO
Policy regarding residents who
 become insolvent..................... None
Residents financial responsibility
should he/she be transferred to
a nursing facility.................... Must pay monthly fees
Length of time living unit will be
maintained in the event of temporary
nursing home placement................ Forever











INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOINT LEGISLATIVE STUDY COMMITTEE ON AGING,
REPRESENTATIVE PATRICK B. HARRIS, CHAIRMAN.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LEXINGTON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               LEXINGTON - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : B & J Community Care Home               
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 178 M         
                : Lit Mt., SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 178 M              
                : Lit Mt., SC  29075
          Phone : 945-7967
          Owner : Jasper O. Bowers                   
  Administrator : Jasper O. Bowers         
 License Number : 33 
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Cedar Acres                             
Mailing Address : 2091 Sams Elbow Rd.      
                : W. Cola, SC  29169
       Location : 2091 Sams Elbow               
                : W. Cola, SC  29169
          Phone : 755-3093
          Owner : Sarah M. Kitts                     
  Administrator : Sarah M. Kitts           
 License Number : 352
    No. of Beds :  12











       Facility : Emme Arbor 4                            
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 531            
                : Batesburg, SC  29006
       Location : 209 E. Columbia Ave.          
                : Batesburg, SC  29006
          Phone : 532-2377
          Owner : Emme Arbor, Inc.                   
  Administrator : Ann M. Rogers            
 License Number : 406
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Emme Arbor Retirement Home #1           
Mailing Address : 2l7 Line St.             
                : Batesburg, SC       
       Location : 217 Line St.                  
                : Batesburg, SC  29006
          Phone : 532-4343
          Owner : Ann M. Rogers                      
  Administrator : Ann M. Rogers            
 License Number : 7  
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Emme Arbor Retirement Home #2           
Mailing Address : 217 Line St.             
                : Batesburg, SC       
       Location : 217 Line St.                  
                : Batesburg, SC  29006
          Phone : 532-4343
          Owner : Anne M. Rogers                     
  Administrator : Anne M. Rogers           
 License Number : 8  
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Emme Arbor Retirement Home #III         
Mailing Address : 213 Line St.             
                : Batesburg, SC       
       Location : 213 Line St.                  
                : Batesburg, SC  29006
          Phone : 532-4343
          Owner : Ann M. Rogers                      
  Administrator : Ann M. Rogers            
 License Number :   9
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Lakeside Boarding Home                  
Mailing Address : 815 Old Cherokee         
                : Lex, SC       
       Location : 815 Old Cherokee Road         
                : Lex, SC  29072
          Phone : 359-5181
          Owner : Health Investment Group, Inc.      
  Administrator : J. Melvin Ellis          
 License Number : 110
    No. of Beds :  44











       Facility : Lakeside Boarding Home Annex            
Mailing Address : 815 Old Cherokee         
                : Lex, SC       
       Location : 815 Old Cherokee Road         
                : Lex, SC  29072
          Phone : 359-5181
          Owner : Health Investment Group, Inc.      
  Administrator : J. Melvin Ellis          
 License Number : 109
    No. of Beds :  18











       Facility : Presbyterian Home of S.C./Columbia Home 
Mailing Address : 700 DaVega Dr.           
                : Lexington, SC       
       Location : 700 DaVega Dr.                
                : Lexington, SC  29072
          Phone : 796-8700
          Owner : Presbyterian Home of S. C.         
  Administrator : Margaret M. Taylor       
 License Number : 387
    No. of Beds :  30











       Facility : SC Epis. Home/Still Hopes               
Mailing Address : 7th St. Ext.             
                : W. Cola, SC       
       Location : 7th St. Extension             
                : W. Cola, SC  29169
          Phone : 796-6490
          Owner : S.C. Episcopal Home Still Hopes Inc
  Administrator : Diana B. Jones           
 License Number : 144
    No. of Beds :  49











       Facility : Sarah Community Care Home               
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 745            
                : Leesville, SC       
       Location : 101 S. Lee St.                
                : Leesville, SC  29070
          Phone : 532-5057
          Owner : Sarah Ann Merriweather             
  Administrator : Sarah Merriweather       
 License Number : 335
    No. of Beds :  15











       Facility : Southern Heritage Inc.                  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1364           
                : W. Columbia, SC       
       Location : 770 Hoffman Dr.               
                : W. Columbia, SC  29072
          Phone : 796-3113
          Owner : Southern Heritage, Inc.            
  Administrator : Claudia B. Waits         
 License Number : 409
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Southern Heritage Inc., Annex           
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1364           
                : W. Columbia, SC       
       Location : 1713 Charleston Hwy.          
                : W. Columbia, SC  29072
          Phone : 755-1171
          Owner : Southern Heritage, Inc.            
  Administrator : Claudia B. Waits         
 License Number : 131
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Sunset Community Care Home              
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 7453           
                : W. Columbia, SC       
       Location : 1810 Sunset Blvd.             
                : W. Columbia, SC  29169
          Phone : 796-7881
          Owner : Clara & Lloyd Prevette             
  Administrator : Clara Prevette           
 License Number : 353
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : Twilite Manor Boarding Home #1          
Mailing Address : 2306 Forrest Rd.         
                : Cayce, SC       
       Location : 2306 Forrest Rd.              
                : Cayce, SC  29033
          Phone : 794-7561
          Owner : Twilite Manor, Inc.                
  Administrator : Margaret R. Clark        
 License Number : 124
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Twilite Manor Boarding Home #2          
Mailing Address : 2308 Forrest Rd.         
                : Cayce, SC       
       Location : 2308 Forrest Rd.              
                : Cayce, SC  29033
          Phone : 794-7561
          Owner : Twilite Manor, Inc.                
  Administrator : Margaret R. Clark        
 License Number : 125
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Victoria Community Care Home            
Mailing Address : 120 Addy Lane            
                : Lexington, SC       
       Location : 120 Addy Lane                 
                : Lexington, SC  29072
          Phone : 359-7510
          Owner : Chris Heron                        
  Administrator : Chris H. White           
 License Number : 417
    No. of Beds :  18











       Facility : White's Community Residential Care      
Mailing Address : Rt. l, Box 164           
                : Lit Mt., SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 164                
                : Lit Mt., SC  29075
          Phone : 345-3117
          Owner : Paul White, Sr.                    
  Administrator : Paul White, Sr.          
 License Number : 336
    No. of Beds :  20







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Lexington County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LEXINGTON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                   
-DOC-
                   LEXINGTON - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Brian Ctr. of Nursing Care/St. Andrews  
Mailing Address : 3514 Sidney Rd.             
                : Lexington, SC  29210
       Location : 3514 Sidney Rd.               
                : Lexington, SC  29210
          Phone : 798-9715
          Owner : D. C. Beaver, T. W. Cecil, R. J. Marsh  
  Administrator : Dorothea C. Moody        
 License Number : NCF377
   Beds - Total :  120
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   60
     Beds - Icf :   60





       Facility : Manor Care of Lexington, Inc.           
Mailing Address : 2416 Sunset Blvd.           
                : W. Columbia, SC  29169
       Location : 2416 Sunset Blvd.             
                : W. Columbia, SC  29169
          Phone : 796-8024
          Owner : Manor Care of Lexington, Inc.           
  Administrator : Melvin H. Stepp          
 License Number : NCF353
   Beds - Total :  120
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   82
     Beds - Icf :   38





       Facility : Rikard Nursing Homes                    
Mailing Address : 815 Old Cherokee Rd.        
                : Lexington, SC  29072
       Location : 815 Old Cherokee Rd.          
                : Lexington, SC  29072
          Phone : 359-5181
          Owner : Health Investment Group Inc.            
  Administrator : J. Melvin Ellis          
 License Number : NCF387
   Beds - Total :  319
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :  275
     Beds - Icf :   44





       Facility : S.C. Episcopal Home at Still Hopes      
Mailing Address : 7th St.                     
                : West Columbia, SC  29169
       Location : 7th St. off Knox Abbott Dr.   
                : West Columbia, SC  29169
          Phone : 796-6490
          Owner : S.C. Episcopal Home at Still Hopes      
  Administrator : Dianna Jones             
 License Number : NCF392
   Beds - Total :   44
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   44
     Beds - Icf :    0
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LEXINGTON - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                      
-DOC-
                      LEXINGTON - LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Helping Hands Adult Day Care                      
Mailing Address : 20l0 State St.                
                : Cayce, SC  29033
       Location : 2010 State Street             
                : Cayce, SC  29033
          Phone : 796-5192
          Owner : Barbara Wright                     
  Administrator : Barbara Wright           
 License Number : ADC15 
   Participants :  20








-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LEXINGTON - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION                
-DOC-
                LEXINGTON - INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Bruton Smith Rd. Group Home             
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817, Cola        
                : Lexington, SC  29230
       Location : 139 Bruton Smith Rd.          
                : Lexington, SC  29072
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Babcock Ctr., Inc.                      
  Administrator : Ralph E. Courtney        
 License Number : M1546 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Clusters of Lexington-Building A        
Mailing Address : P. O.Box 38l7, Cola         
                : Lexington, SC  29230
       Location : 20l Duffie Drive              
                : Lexington, SC  29072
          Phone : 359-5018
          Owner : Babcock Center, Inc.                    
  Administrator : Jon Bradford             
 License Number : M15 66
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Clusters of Lexington-Building B        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817, Cola        
                : Lexington, SC  29230
       Location : 201 Duffie Dr.                
                : Lexington, SC  29072
          Phone : 359-5018
          Owner : Babcock Center, Inc.                    
  Administrator : Jon Bradford             
 License Number : M15 67
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Clusters of Lexington-Building C        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817, Cola        
                : Lexington, SC  29230
       Location : 201 Duffie Drive              
                : Lexington, SC  29072
          Phone : 359-5018
          Owner : Babcock Center, Inc.                    
  Administrator : Jon Bradford             
 License Number : M15 68
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Clusters of Lexington-Building D        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817, Cola        
                : Lexington, SC  29230
       Location : 20l Duffie Drive              
                : Lexington, SC  29072
          Phone : 359-5018
          Owner : Babcock Center, Inc.                    
  Administrator : Jon Bradford             
 License Number : M15 69
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Clusters of Lexington-Building E        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817, Cola        
                : Lexington, SC  29230
       Location : 20l Duffie Drive              
                : Lexington, SC  29072
          Phone : 359-5018
          Owner : Babcock Center, Inc.                    
  Administrator : Jon Bradford             
 License Number : M15 70
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Clusters of Lexington-Building F        
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 3817, Cola        
                : Lexington, SC  29230
       Location : 20l Duffie Drive              
                : Lexington, SC  29072
          Phone : 359-5018
          Owner : Babcock Center, Inc.                    
  Administrator : Jon Bradford             
 License Number : M15 71
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Hendrix St. Group Home                  
Mailing Address : PO Box 3817, Cola           
                : Lexington, SC  29230
       Location : 425 Hendrix St.               
                : Lexington, SC  29072
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Babcock Ctr., Inc.                      
  Administrator : Ralph E. Courtney        
 License Number : M1545 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8





       Facility : Lex. West, Inc., Batesburg Group Home   
Mailing Address : PO Box 3817, Cola           
                : Batesburg, SC  29230
       Location : 99 David St.                  
                : Batesburg, SC  29006
          Phone : 359-9717
          Owner : Babcock Ctr., Inc.                      
  Administrator : Ralph E. Courtney        
 License Number : M1523 
   Beds - Total :    8
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :    0
     Beds - Icf :    8

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in McCormick County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MCCORMICK - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               MCCORMICK - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed community residential centers in McCormick County.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in McCormick County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MCCORMICK - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                      
-DOC-
                      MCCORMICK - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

     There are no licensed skilled nursing care facilities in McCormick
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in McCormick County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in McCormick
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Marion County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MARION - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS                
-DOC-
                MARION - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Jenkins Boarding Home                   
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1133           
                : Marion, SC  29571
       Location : 125 W. Liberty St.            
                : Marion, SC  29571
          Phone : 423-7841
          Owner : Simon M. & Flora P. Jenkins        
  Administrator : Simon M. Jenkins         
 License Number : 324
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Love Residential Care Center #1         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 316            
                : Mullins, SC       
       Location : 605 Seaboard Ave.             
                : Mullins, SC  29574
          Phone : 464-2435
          Owner : Annie Abram & Simon Jenkins        
  Administrator : Annie M. J. Abram        
 License Number : 349
    No. of Beds :   9











       Facility : M & M Community Residential Care Center 
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 1064           
                : Marion, SC  29571
       Location : 408 Holiday St.               
                : Marion, SC  29571
          Phone : 423-6136
          Owner : Geneva H. McNeil                   
  Administrator : Geneva H. McNeil         
 License Number : 84 
    No. of Beds :   8











       Facility : Springbranch Residential Center         
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 10ll           
                : Marion, SC       
       Location : Rt. l, Box 329                
                : Marion, SC  29571
          Phone : 423-5610
          Owner : Marion Cty. Commission on ADA      
  Administrator : William T. O'Connor      
 License Number : 282
    No. of Beds :   7







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Marion County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MARION - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                     
-DOC-
                     MARION - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Jenkins Nursing Home, Inc.              
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 917                
                : Marion, SC  29571
       Location : 401 Murray St.                
                : Marion, SC  29571
          Phone : 423-6947
          Owner : Jenkins Nursing Home Inc.               
  Administrator : Simon M. Jenkins         
 License Number : NCF169
   Beds - Total :   58
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   42
     Beds - Icf :   16





       Facility : Marion County Convalescent Center       
Mailing Address : P. O. Drawer 1106           
                : Marion, SC  29571
       Location : Hwy. 501                      
                : Marion, SC  29570
          Phone : 423-2601
          Owner : Henderson Management Group Inc.         
  Administrator : Crystal H. Isom          
 License Number : NCF350
   Beds - Total :   88
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   62
     Beds - Icf :   26

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE                            
-DOC-
                            LICENSED ADULT DAY CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed adult day care facilities in Marion County.

 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES                
-DOC-
                INTERMEDIATE CARE MENTAL RETARDATION FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Intermediate Care Mental Retardation Facilities in Marion
County.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RETIREMENT CENTERS                              
-DOC-
                              RETIREMENT CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no Retirement Centers in Marlboro County.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MARLBORO - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS               
-DOC-
               MARLBORO - LICENSED COMMUNITY RESIDENTIAL CENTERS
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : B.T.U. Rest Home, Inc.                  
Mailing Address : P. O. Box 352            
                : Bennettsville, SC  29512
       Location : 113 Ellison St.               
                : Bennettsville, SC  29512
          Phone : 479-9053
          Owner : B.T.U. Rest Home, Inc.             
  Administrator : Rosa Lee Miller          
 License Number : 235
    No. of Beds :  80











       Facility : Maggie L. Wright Home                   
Mailing Address : 121 Cheraw St.           
                : Bennettsville, SC       
       Location : 121 Cheraw St.                
                : Bennettsville, SC  29512
          Phone : 479-7824
          Owner : Julian B. Wright                   
  Administrator : Julian B. Wright         
 License Number : 165
    No. of Beds :   7











       Facility : N. Marlboro CRC Fac.                    
Mailing Address : 302 N. Marlboro          
                : McColl, SC       
       Location : 302 North Marlboro St.        
                : McColl, SC  29570
          Phone : 523-5781
          Owner : Winnie Jane Hall                   
  Administrator : Winnie J. Hall           
 License Number : 310
    No. of Beds :  10











       Facility : Pat's Residential Care Facility         
Mailing Address : 115 Moore St.            
                : Bennettsville, SC       
       Location : 115 Moore St.                 
                : Bennettsville, SC  29512
          Phone : 479-8433
          Owner : Patricia Blue                      
  Administrator : Patricia Blue            
 License Number : 293
    No. of Beds :   6











       Facility : Suncrest Residential Center             
Mailing Address : 100 W Main/Bntsvil       
                : Wallace, SC  29512
       Location : Rt. l, Box 827                
                : Wallace, SC  29596
          Phone : 537-7385
          Owner : Marlboro Cty. Comm. on ADA         
  Administrator : William M. Harrington    
 License Number : 153
    No. of Beds :  13







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES                     
-DOC-
                     LICENSED INTERMEDIATE CARE FACILITIES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

There are no licensed intermediate care facilities in Marlboro County. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MARLBORO - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE                    
-DOC-
                    MARLBORO - LICENSED SKILLED NURSING CARE
    Emily S. Wiggins - Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

       Facility : Dundee Nursing Home                     
Mailing Address : P.O. Box 858                
                : Bennettsville, SC  29512
       Location : Hwy l5-40l Bypass             
                : Bennettsville, SC  29512
          Phone : 479-6251
          Owner : Branton Enterprises, Inc.               
  Administrator : Harold D. Branton        
 License Number : NCF206
   Beds - Total :  111
     Beds - Gen :    0
     Beds - Psy :    0
     Beds - Oth :    0
     Beds - Ncf :    0
    Beds - Dual :   87
     Beds - Icf :   24

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHITE INFANT MORTALITY BY RATE (RESIDENCE DATA)                
-DOC-
                WHITE INFANT MORTALITY BY RATE (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                     1980       1981       1982       1983       1984      1985

Abbeville             0          0         10.1       10.4       10.9
Aiken                10.1       10.6        7.9        7.1       10.0
Allendale            22.7       57.7        0         52.6       20.4
Anderson             12.5       17.8       13.0       16.8        6.6
Bamberg              10.5       29.7        0          0         18.5
Barnwell             12.3       23.1       13.9       13.9        0
Beaufort             11.5        8.4       14.0       17.0       15.4
Berkeley             10.2       11.9       15.9        6.6        8.6
Calhoun               0         38.5       13.0        0         13.0
Charleston           12.5        8.6        8.0        8.7        8.6
Cherokee             14.5       10.0        7.4        5.0       10.7
Chester              17.1        3.9       23.3        4.2       19.6
Chesterfield          2.8       16.6       12.5       28.6       33.3
Clarendon            18.9        7.8       12.0       21.4        0
Colleton             15.2        0          4.1       12.9       16.1
Darlington           15.2        8.7       12.4       16.4        4.5
Dillon                7.9       28.7       16.3       16.9        0
Dorchester            6.9       13.0       10.2        8.7       16.5
Edgefield             0         14.4       34.5        7.6       15.9
Fairfield            19.6        0          0          0         41.2
Florence             13.8        9.3       11.9        9.6       15.7
Georgetown            9.1       18.5        3.1       10.8        6.3
Greenville            9.4       13.9       11.1        9.5       14.2
Greenwood             8.0       24.8       12.2       13.3        4.1
Hampton              19.2       28.8        0          0         30.9
Horry                 6.4       14.5       13.8       13.3       10.3
Jasper               34.9       16.8       36.4       32.6       10.6
Kershaw              13.7        8.2       11.9       11.0       12.5
Lancaster            15.1       15.4       13.4       13.5        8.5
Laurens              16.3       29.7        8.6       11.0       12.8
Lee                  13.2       24.4       25.6       23.8        0
Lexington             8.2        8.2        7.5        9.9       10.5
McCormick             0         32.3        0         25.6        0
Marion               13.6       29.1        9.4       10.5       11.0
Marlboro              8.4       33.3       23.4       26.4       15.8
Newberry             13.0        3.6       12.2        8.4        0
Oconee                7.6        8.4       11.0       11.9       13.7
Orangeburg           14.7       16.0       19.1        0         11.9
Pickens              10.7       11.8       18.0       15.9       12.4
Richland              9.8        8.7        9.2       10.7        7.1
Saluda               25.2        7.9       30.5        7.5        7.8
Spartanburg           9.3        9.0       13.2       15.6       13.3
Sumter                8.1       13.1       12.2       11.5       10.6
Union                27.6       16.4       23.3       11.9        4.8
Williamsburg         13.6        6.3        5.0        6.3        0
York                 11.0       12.4       18.5       10.6       12.6

TOTAL (State)        10.8       12.4       12.0       11.3       11.1

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.  Rate 1000 per live births.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AVAILABILITY OF FOODS                             
-DOC-
                             AVAILABILITY OF FOODS
            Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food-Nutrition Specialist

Consumer food market outlook for November, 1987 reports the following:

BEEF......Expect features on chuck cuts, sirloin steaks and other loin or
round cuts early in the month.

PORK......Pork loin prices are lower than they have been for several months
due to good supplies.  There should be good buys on loin chops, roasts and
country-style ribs this month.  Expect to see heavy bacon features in the near
future because of ample supply and lower prices.  Hams probably will not be
heavily promoted until December.

CHICKEN...Prices are steady with supplies good.  Slower demand is expected
until after the holidays, so prices should remain stable.

TURKEY....is the major promotion before Thanksgiving.  Supplies are excellent
and prices are expected to be lower than a year ago.



FISH AND SEAFOOD....FROZEN COD supplies are readily available, with prices
down a few cents per pound.  Because of larger supplies, prices of farm-raised
CATFISH are down a bit from last year.  Higher prices have been announced for
some brands of CANNED PINK and CHUM SALMON.

FRESH FRUITS...APPLES, CRANBERRIES, PEARS and TABLE GRAPES are plentiful this
month.  Supplies of GRAPEFRUIT and NAVAL ORANGES will increase.  The short
season for PERSIMMONS and POMEGRANATES has begun, with supplies continuing
through December.  

FRESH VEGETABLES....CARROTS, POTATOES, SWEET POTATOES, ONIONS, CAULIFLOWER,
BROCCOLI, CELERY, PEPPERS, CUCUMBERS AND LETTUCE are in good supply.  

PROCESSED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES....Even with the 1987 pack completed, supplies
of CLING PEACHES are tight with current supplies down 19% from last year and
at the second lowest level in a decade.  The supply of FRUIT COCKTAIL is
similar.  While PEAR supplies are greater than last year, short supplies of
cling peaches and fruit cocktail have increased demand for pears.  Expect
APRICOT prices to stay firm, because of limited supplies.  There are lots of
RED TART CHERRIES available, along with APPLESAUCE and PURPLE PLUMS.  Prices
of FROZEN CONCENTRATED ORANGE JUICE may increase a bit.  In CANNED VEGETABLES,
CORN may be in tight supply this year, along with some can sizes in PEAS. 
GREEN BEAN prices are firm or moving up.  TOMATO supplies appear to be
adequate.  Major FROZEN VEGETABLES  are in good supply.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ECONOMIC INDICATORS                              
-DOC-
                              ECONOMIC INDICATORS
      Glennis M. Couchman, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

Economic Indicators                   Current Month     Previous Month
                                           %                 %
   Prime Rate                             9.00              8.75
   Consumer Price Index (CPI)             4.27              4.3
   Housing Affordability Index          114.4             111.8
   Gross National Product Growth*        +4.1              +3.8
   Unemployment Rate                      5.9               5.8
   Retail Sales                          -0.1              -0.4

Interest Rates                               National Averages
                                      Current Month     Previous Month
                                            %                 %
   Home Mortgages
      30 Year Fixed                       11.59            11.13
      15 Year Fixed                       11.19            10.72
      ARM                                  8.42             8.01

* Reported on quarterly basis

Interest Rates                               National Averages
                                      Current Month     Previous Month
                                           %                 %
   Home-equity Loans                     10.5             10.46
   Unsecured Personal Loans              14.58             14.53
   Auto Loans                            10.53             10.4
   Revolving Credit Cards                18.83             18.83
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COST OF FOOD AT HOME                             
-DOC-
                             COST OF FOOD AT HOME
      Glennis M. Couchman, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

                                                 Cost for 1 week (1)

           Sex-age group              Thrifty   Low-cost   Moderate-    Liberal
                                      plan      plan       cost plan    plan

FAMILIES

Family of 2:
   20-50 years                        $39.90    $50.50     $ 62.50      $ 77.60
   51 years and over                   38.10     48.40       59.80        71.70
Family of 4:
   Couple, 20-50 years and children
      1-2 and 3-5 years                58.10     72.50       88.80       109.10
      6-8 and 9-11 years               66.70     85.30      107.00       128.80

(1) Assumes that food for all meals and snacks is purchased at the store and
    prepared at home.


                                                Cost for 1 week (1)

           Sex-age group              Thrifty   Low-cost   Moderate-    Liberal
                                      plan      plan       cost plan    plan

INDIVIDUALS (2)

Child:   1-2 years                    $10.50    $12.70      $14.80       $17.90
         3-5 years                     11.30     13.90       17.20        20.70
         6-8 years                     13.90     18.40       23.20        27.00
         9-11 years                    16.50     21.00       27.00        31.30
Male:    12-14 years                   17.20     23.80       29.80        34.90
         15-19 years                   17.90     24.70       30.70        35.50
         20-50 years                   19.10     24.40       30.70        37.10
         51 years and over             17.50     23.20       28.60        34.40
Female:  12-19 years                   17.20     20.60       25.00        30.30
         20-50 years                   17.20     21.50       26.10        33.40
         51 years and over             17.10     20.80       25.80        30.80




(2) The costs given are for individuals in 4-person families.  For individuals
    in other size families, the following adjustments are suggested:  1-person
    add 20 percent; 2-person add 10 percent; 3-person add 5 percent; 5- or 6-
    person subtract 5 percent; 7- or more-person subtract 10 percent.


Source:  Family Economics Review, No. 3, 1987
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INVESTMENT AND SAVINGS                            
-DOC-
                            INVESTMENT AND SAVINGS
     Glennis M. Couchman, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

Investment and Savings                 Current Month         Previous Month
 
   Dow Jones Industrial Average            1766.64              1959.05
   Best Performing Industry            Electric companies    Gold mining       
   Worst Performing Industry           Toys                  Retail  
                                                              specialties
   Industries to watch                 Telephone             Miscellaneous 
                                        property/casualty     metals & shoes
                                        insurers
   Money Market Accounts                   5.82%                5.69%
   1 year CDs                              7.74%                7.42%
   2 1/2 year CDs                          8.19%                7.86%
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SEASONAL STAINS                                
-DOC-
                                SEASONAL STAINS
          Judith S. Kline, Extension Clothing and Textiles Specialist

The following stain removal methods apply to washable fabrics only.  Fabrics
that are "dry clean only" should be taken to the cleaners for spot and stain
removal. The stains included are: GUM, GRASS, MILDEW, MUSTARD, BLOOD AND 
SUNTAN LOTION.

GUM
 
     Apply ice to harden stain.  Scrape off excess.  Place stain face down on  
     absorbent paper towel or clean cloth.  Sponge with non-flammable dry-     
     cleaning solvent.  Change towel as it picks up stain.  Let dry. Launder.









GRASS

     Work liquid dish washing detergent or laundry detergent into the stain    
     and rinse well with water.  If any stain remains, presoak in an enzyme    
     detergent.  Rinse thoroughly  and launder as soon as possible. 
     If any stain remains, test for color-fastness in an inconspicuous place,  
     then use a  mild non-chlorine bleach.  Thoroughly rinse with clear water, 
     then launder as usual.












MILDEW

     Old mildew stains are almost impossible to remove.  Treat stains as       
     quickly as possible as mildew can weaken or rot fabrics.  Brush off mildew 
     out-of-doors.  For washable fabrics, pretreat with liquid detergent, a    
     paste of laundry detergent and water or a prewash product.  Launder using 
     detergent, water as hot as the fabric will allow and bleach, if safe for  
     the fabric.

     An alternative bleach is to apply a paste of salt and lemon juice and     
     place in sun.  Test on an inconspicuous area of the garment before using. 
     Rinse and launder.
    
     To bleach cotton and linen, make a paste of an oxygen type bleach, water  
     and a few drops of ammonia.  Cover stain with paste and allow it to stand 
     15 to 30 minutes.  Flush thoroughly with water and launder again.  CAUTION 
     never mix chlorine bleach and ammonia as a poisonous gas is produced. 
  
     Dry cleaning solvents are often effective on mildew stains.  Items can be 
     taken to your dry cleaners for treatment or it can be used at home.       
     Follow instructions found on dry cleaning product.

MUSTARD

     Treat immediately or it may be impossible to remove.  Scrape off any      
     excess mustard.  Flush with dry cleaning solvent.  If the stain remains   
     sponge with water and work in a liquid detergent and a few drops of       
     vinegar.  Flush with water.  If stain persists, moisten area with 3%      
     hydrogen peroxide and add a drop of ammonia (except on silk and wool).    
     Leave for no longer than 15 minutes and flush with water.

BLOOD

     Quick action is essential.  Blood stains are set by heat or hot water.
     Wash fresh stains in cold water and detergent.  If stain remains soak 
     in 1 quart of warm, 1/2 tsp. liquid detergent and 1 Tbs. ammonia for 
     about 15 minutes.  If the fabric will allow, scrub the stained area.
     If stain persist, rinse thoroughly to remove all traces of ammonia and    
     soak in an enzyme presoak or detergent. Do not dry garment in the dryer   
     until all traces of the stain are removed.



SUNTAN LOTION

     Remove any excess lotion.  Moisten the spot with water and apply a mixture
     of 1 Tbs. enzyme presoaks and one cup of warm water.  Let the stain soak 
     for 30 minutes.  Flush with water and launder. If an enzyme presoak is not
     available use an enzyme detergent.  Look at the list of ingredients on a  
     box of detergent to determine if it has enzymes.
     
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EFNEP BULLETIN BOARD                             
-DOC-
                             EFNEP BULLETIN BOARD

               Ruby H. Cox, Extension Program Coordinator-EFNEP

NAMES IN THE NEWS:

A sincere welcome is extended to Georgia Thomas who joined the Abbeville staff
as EFNEP Program Assistant in January, 1987. Her name was inadvertently omitted
from the "welcome" list in March.

We extend hearty congratulations to Susan Kahl (Supervising Agent, Spartanburg)
and husband, Bill, in their adoption of a beautiful, newborn baby boy. Don't
they have some exciting times to look forward too! 

Heartfelt sympathy is extended to Mrs. Pernettia Rowell, EFNEP Program
Assistant in York County, in the recent death of her husband. Please remember
her in this time of sorrow.

RECORDS AND REPORTS UPDATE:

The State EFNEP Office has received Participation Reports and Aide's List of
Families from the majority of counties. I will be analyzing these soon and will
give you a brief report of our status in the EFNEP Bulletin Board in early May. 
I know each of the EFNEP secretaries worked very hard to get rid of errors and
to make sure the reports were correct. Your hard work is greatly appreciated.

I have still received no word from the computer programer at Cornell who is
working on the new compiled, floppy disk version of the EFNEP computerized
reporting system. Therefore, we will continue to hold off on training
secretaries in the remaining 22 counties to enter data on youth, volunteers,
and referrals on the computer.

Supervising Agents are asked to be sure to review the Program Assistant's
Itinerary and Weekly Report before the PAs leave the office on Monday morning.
Also, you need to keep a xerox copy in the office. It is important that PAs
plan a sufficient number of visits so that their time will be used as
efficiently as possible. If there are problems with homemakers frequently not
being at home, perhaps over-scheduling on planned visits will insure that PAs
are able to make a desired number of teaching contacts each day.
 
Program Assistants are reminded to put the "race" on the Itinerary and Weekly
Report beside the names of homemakers contacted in an effort to enroll.  This
is very important for Civil Rights documentation.
 \$
A NOTE ABOUT COMPUTERS - Computers with hard disk drives have been ordered for
10 counties. EFNEP is continuing the offer to share the cost with counties who
can get funds to pay for 1/2 of the cost of a new computer.  The use of a hard
disk drive makes our EFNEP computer record system work much more smoothly.
If interested in buying a computer, County Chairmen should contact their
District Chairman or me.

We have already received from Cornell the compiled hard disk drive version of
the program and it works much, much better than the floppy version. Soon after,
the new computers are delivered to the 10 counties, I will be coming to show
the EFNEP secretary how to enter the EFNEP information on the hard disk drive.

WORDS TO LIVE BY:

Marital conflict can be constructive - if you follow sound basic rules. Avoid
fights over trivial differences or external frustrations...Never hold a grudge
...Communicate both by expressing yourself and by listening actively... Meet
your spouse more than halfway. (from "Til Death Do Us Part" by Jeanette and
Robert Lauer, Havorth Press)                             April 14, 1987
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FOOD SAFETY QUESTIONS & ANSWERS                        
-DOC-
                        FOOD SAFETY QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
          Elizabeth H. Hoyle, Extension Food and Nutrition Specialist

SALMONELLA UPDATE

Much attention has recently been given to salmonella.  Some consumers are
worried about the safety of eating chicken.  The following questions and
answers will ease any concerns you may have.  PROPER COOKING WILL DESTROY
SALMONELLA BACTERIA.

Q:  What is salmonella?

A:  Salmonella are bacteria that are widely prevalent in the environment.  They
    are found primarily in the intestinal tracts of humans and all other
    animals and birds, and also in water and soil.  Because of its prevalence
    in nature, salmonella may sometimes be found in raw foods such as meat,
    fish, poultry, eggs, unpasteurized milk, and raw vegetables.  Salmonella
    can cause salmonellosis, an illness which results in flu-like symptoms.



/$
Q:  How can I tell if food is contaminated with salmonella?

A:  You can't.  Since you cannot see, smell, or otherwise detect the presence
    of salmonella by ordinary methods, it's best to cook and handle ALL food
    properly to avoid problems.

Q:  Should I be concerned?

A:  Since salmonella is easily destroyed by heat, the consumer can eliminate
    potential health problems by cooking foods to recommended temperatures and
    by following other good food-handling practices.  The three important
    factors in proper handling of raw poultry are:  (1) cooking, (2) kitchen
    sanitation, and (3) storage.

Q:  Should I avoid eating favorite foods, such as chicken?

A:  No.  While chicken, like any meat, may contain salmonella bacteria, PROPER
    COOKING WILL DESTROY SALMONELLA.  Because chicken is not usually eaten raw
    or even rare, it is less frequently a source of salmonellosis than are
    other meats.

/$
SUMMARY:  Cooking food properly and using good food handling practices can
eliminate potential health problems from the presence of salmonella in raw
food products.  PROPER COOKING WILL DESTROY SALMONELLA BACTERIA.










NOTE:  For additional answers to questions about the safety of meat and
       poultry, consumers may telephone the FREE HOTLINE number of the
       USDA's Food Safety and Inspection Service:  (800) 535-4555.

       Help is also available from your County Extension Office.  Home
       Economists there can answer specific questions and provide printed
       material on safe food handling. ASK EXTENSION!

    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SAFETY - APPLIANCES                              
-DOC-
                              SAFETY - APPLIANCES
     Joyce H. Christenbury, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

Safety starts with accident prevention.  The first step in assuring safety with
major home appliances is to install them correctly.  Make sure your major home
appliances are:
   - installed by a qualified person according to manufacturer's instructions
     and local and national codes;
   - installed and leveled on a floor strong enough to support them;
   - protected from the weather and freezing or overheating;
   - correctly connected to electricity, gas, water, drain, exhaust, etc., and
     are electrically grounded; and
   - not used by young children or anyone unable to operate them properly.

Understanding and following a few safety precautions can help prevent
accidents.

  ALWAYS use a separate, grounded electrical circuit for each major home
  appliance (including a microwave oven).
  NEVER use an extension cord for a major home appliance.
  ALWAYS turn off gas and unplug power cords (or turn off power) before doing
  any maintenance, extensive cleaning, or servicing of the appliance.
  NEVER modify the power cord, plug, wiring, or any other component of an
  appliance.  Such actions can create safety hazards.
  READ and follow all instructions packed with the appliance.
  BE SURE appliances meet safety standards...
  ...on ELECTRIC appliances, look for the UL label from the Underwriters
     Laboratories signifying the item meets specific safety standards.
  ...on GAS appliances, look for the Blue Star Certification Seal of the
     American Gas Association denoting the product is safe.

If you have questions about the safe operation of an appliance, contact the
following agencies or organizations with your concerns:

   U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
   Washington, DC 20207
   1-800-638-CPSC (2772)

   Underwriters Laboratories, Inc.
   333 Pfingsten Road
   Northbrook, IL 60062
   312-272-8800


   American Gas Association
   1515 Wilson Boulevard
   Arlington, VA 22209
   703-841-8501

   Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers
   20 North Wacker Drive
   Chicago, IL 60606
   312-984-5858

   National Safety Council
   444 North Michigan Avenue
   Chicago, IL 60611
   312-527-4800
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ASSOCIATION OF HOME APPLIANCE MANUFACTURERS (AHAM)               
-DOC-
              ASSOCIATION OF HOME APPLIANCE MANUFACTURERS (AHAM) 
    Joyce H. Christenbury, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist 
 
The Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers is an international non-profit 
organization of companies manufacturing major and portable appliances.  AHAM 
has four major function areas: 
 
1.  Product Standards and Certification - AHAM develops and updates appliance 
    performance standards and sponsors certification programs on room air 
    conditioners, refrigerators and freezers, and humidifiers and 
    dehumidifiers. 
 
2.  Government Relations - AHAM relates industry views on legislation and 
    regulations and works closely with all levels of government. 
 
3.  Consumer Affairs and Communications - AHAM provides educational materials 
    and programs to consumers and educators. 
 
4.  Statistical Reports - AHAM compiles and releases industry sales and monthly
    factory shipment figures, annual totals, forecasts, and various special 
    studies such as wage and benefit surveys. 
 
Contact this trade association by writing: 
     Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers 
     20 North Wacker Drive 
     Chicago, Illinois 60606 
     312/984-5858
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MACAP                                     
-DOC-
                                     MACAP
     Joyce H. Christenbury, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

MACAP - the Major Appliance Consumer Action Panel - is a group of independent
consumer experts voicing consumer views at the highest levels of the major
appliance industry.  The Panel is sponsored by the Association of Home
Appliance Manufacturers, the Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association, and the
National Retail Merchants Association.

MACAP receives comments and complaints from appliance owners, studies industry
practice, and advises industry of ways to improve its service to consumers.  It
also reports to consumers and recommends ways to get the best performance from
their appliances.

MACAP handles problems with the following types of appliances:

        Compactors                        Ranges and Microwave Ovens
        Dehumidifiers                     Refrigerators and Freezers
        Dishwashers                       Room Air Conditioners
        Disposers                         Water Heaters
        Home Laundry Equipment

Before MACAP will accept a consumer complaint, the consumer must first contact
the appliance manufacturer and request help in resolving the complaint.  If the
complaint is unresolved, the consumer can then contact MACAP for assistance.

When directing a complaint to MACAP, send:

   1.  Your name, address, and daytime telephone number
   2.  The type of appliance, brand name, model and serial numbers
   3.  Date of purchase and purchase price
   4.  Names, addresses, and telephone numbers of local dealer and/or service
       agency
   5.  A clear description of the problem, service required, and any service
       history along with copies of receipts and previous correspondence
       concerning the complaint
   6.  A statement of what action you are seeking through MACAP

Keep a copy of the above correspondence and mail the requested information to:

          The Major Appliance Consumer Action Panel
          20 North Wacker Drive
          Chicago, Illinois 60606
          312/984-5858
MACAP does have a toll-free number which describes its purpose and function. 
For such information, call 1-800-621-0477.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LABELING                                   
-DOC-
                                   LABELING
     Joyce H. Christenbury, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

Shopping for a new major home appliance?  If so, look for the yellow and black
EnergyGuide labels.  These labels can help you save money.

An EnergyGuide label shows the yearly energy cost of operating an appliance. 
The information provided allows you to compare the energy cost of competing
brands and models of a similar size appliance with similar features.  When
considered along with the purchase price, this information will help you
determine which appliance is less expensive to own and operate over the long
run.

EnergyGuide labels are required by federal law on the following major
appliances:  Furnaces
             Refrigerators and refrigerator freezers
             Freezers
             Water heaters
             Clothes washers
             Dishwashers
             Room air conditioners

EnergyGuide labels are not required on other major appliances such as ranges,
ovens, microwave ovens, clothes dryers, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, television
sets, or home heating units other than furnaces as these appliances have less
differences in operating costs between brands and models.  Labeling information
would offer little help in selecting an energy efficient unit since units are
so similar in energy consumption.

EnergyGuide labels are not required on small kitchen appliances such as
toasters, blenders, coffeemakers, mixers, etc., because they require relatively
little energy to operate.

To learn more about EnergyGuide labels and how they can help you, discuss the
label information with sales personnel as you comparison shop for new
appliances.  Contact your local utility company for assistance if you have
questions on the cost of electricity in your area.  Contact the local Clemson
University Cooperative Extension Service office and ask for a copy of HHE
Leaflet 19, "EnergyGuide - Compare Before You Buy".





For additional information on EnergyGuide labeling contact:

   Federal Trade Commission
   6th and Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W.
   Room 692
   Washington, DC 20580
   202-326-3650

   U.S. Department of Energy
   Technical Information Center
   PO Box 62
   Oak Ridge, TN 37830
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE                              
-DOC-
                              AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE
     Joyce H. Christenbury, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

The Auto Safety Hotline is a toll-free telephone service operated by the
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, an agency of the U.S.
Department of Transportation.  Hotline operators provide callers with
information on motor vehicle safety recalls, safety defect investigations, new
car crash test results, and other safety topics.

Operators also take consumer complaints about possible safety defects and
assist callers who are having difficulty obtaining repair work on an existing
safety recall.

Safety literature can also be obtained from the hotline.

Operators are available from 8 AM to 4 PM Eastern Standard Time.  An answering
machine is on after hours to record calls and requests.

The Auto Safety Hotline number is 1-800-424-9393.



For additional information, write:
     National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
     Auto Safety Hotline - NEF-11-HL
     400 Seventh Street, S.W.
     Washington, D.C. 20590
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INSURANCE                                   
-DOC-
                                   INSURANCE
     Joyce H. Christenbury, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

Direct questions related to insurance to

          South Carolina Department of Insurance
          PO Box 100105
          1612 Marion Street
          Columbia, SC 29202-3105
          737-6160


For general information on insurance contact

          Insurance Information Institute
          110 William Street
          New York, NY 10038
          1-800-221-4954
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORPORATE CONTACTS                              
-DOC-
                              CORPORATE CONTACTS
     Joyce H. Christenbury, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

If you have a problem with your vehicle:
   * first, try to work it out with dealer
   * if not successful, contact the manufacturer's zone representative (many
     are listed here)

American Honda Motor Company, Inc.
Consumer Relations Department
Mid-Atlantic Zone
209 Perry Parkway, Suite 10
Gaithersburg, MD 20877
(301) 869-8982








American Motors Sales Corporation, Jeep and Renault
Owner Relations Department
Mid-Atlantic Regional Office
1751 Old Meadow Road
PO Drawer AA
Westgate Research Park
McLean, VA 22101
(703) 790-3088, 89, 90

Audi
Regional Service Manager
Southern Region
Suite 170
1770 The Exchange
Atlanta, GA 30339
(404) 955-9000






BMW of North America, Inc.
Customer Relations Manager
Southeast Region
6160 Peachtree - Dunwoody Road
Suite A-100
Atlanta, GA 30328
(404) 399-0060

Chrysler Corporation
Customer Relations Manager
Atlanta Zone Office
1100 Circle 75 Parkway
Suite 850
Lenox Square Station
Atlanta, GA 30339
(404) 953-8880






Fiat Motors of North America, Inc.
National Service Operations Manager
Corporate Office
777 Terrace Avenue
Hasbrouck Heights, NJ 07604
(201) 393-4049/4053

Ford Motor Company (also Lincoln/Mercury)
Owner Relations Manager
Charlotte District Office
PO Box 220307
Charlotte, NC 28222-0307
(704) 554-4501

General Motors Corporation

   Buick Motor Division, GMC
   Customer Assistance Center
   902 East Hamilton Avenue
   Flint, MI 48550
   (313) 766-1240

   Cadillac Motor Car Division, GMC
   Consumer Relations
   2860 Clark Street
   Detroit, MI 48232
   (313) 554-5536

   Chevrolet Motor Division, GMC
   Customer Assistance Department
   Warren, MI 48090
   (313) 492-5500

   GMC Truck and Coach Operation
   Customer Service Department
   31 Judson Street
   Pontiac, MI 48058
   (313) 456-4547

   Oldsmobile Division - GMC
   Customer Service Department
   PO Box 30095
   Lansing, MI 48909
   (517) 377-5546
   Pontiac Motor Division - GMC
   Customer Service Department
   One Pontiac Plaza
   Pontiac, MI 48053
   (313) 857-1316

Mazda Motors of America, Inc.
Customer Relations Manager
8313 Baycenter Road
Jacksonville, FL 32216
(904) 731-4010

Mercedes-Benz of North America, Inc.
Owner Service Manager
Jacksonville Zone
8813 Western Way
PO Box 17604
Jacksonville, FL 32245
(904) 731-4040



Nissan Motor Corporation in USA (Datsun)
Customer Relations Manager
Jacksonville Regional Office
8743 Western Way
Jacksonville, FL 32217
(904) 737-7100

Peugeot Motors of America, Inc.
Customer Relations
Eastern Auto Distributors, Inc.
833 East Little Creek Road
Norfolk, VA 23518
(804) 588-1334

Saab-Scania of America
Customer Relations Manager
Eastern Region
Saab Drive
PO Box 697
Orange, CT 06477
(203) 795-5671

Subaru of America, Inc.
Customer Relations Manager
Southeast Subaru, Inc.
PO Box 3007
West Palm Beach, FL 33402
(305) 683-3066

Toyota Motor Sales, USA
Customer Relations Department
Southeast Toyota Distributors, Inc.
1751 Talleyrand Drive
PO Box 5287
Jacksonville, FL 32201
(904) 358-3634

Volkswagen of America, Inc.
Regional Service Manager
Atlanta Region
1940 The Exchange
Atlanta, GA 30339
(404) 955-3484

Volvo North America
Consumer Affairs Manager
PO Box 913
Rockleigh, NJ 07647
(201) 768-7300
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
AUTOCAP                                    
-DOC-
                                    AUTOCAP
     Joyce H. Christenbury, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

AUTOCAP - Automotive Consumer Action Program - is a free, easy-to-use public
service that can help you if you have a problem that involves a participating
new car or truck dealer.

If you have a problem with a new car or truck, try to work out the problem at
the dealership.  Talk with the appropriate person such as service manager,
sales manager, or the owner of the dealership.  If you can't come to an
agreement and the dealership is a member of a local or state dealer association
sponsoring AUTOCAP, contact AUTOCAP.

When you contact AUTOCAP, you will have to complete a form providing the
following information:
   - Vehicle year, make, model, serial (VIN) number, mileage, date of purchase
   - Nature of your complaint - service, warranty, new or used car or truck
     purchase, advertising, etc.
   - Brief description of the problem
   - What remedy or action you think is appropriate


Once your complaint is received by AUTOCAP, staff review it and forward it to
the dealer involved.  If the case is not resolved in 10 days, it goes to the
AUTOCAP panel for review.  The panel reviews the complaint and makes a decision
which is binding on the participating dealership (the dealership must abide by
the decision), but the consumer can seek other action if not satisfied with the
decision.  This process takes about one month.

AUTOCAP cannot be effective in cases where:
   1.  legal action has already begun;
   2.  the consumer has already hired a lawyer, unless the lawyer agrees to
       participate in AUTOCAP; or
   3.  the problem involves a dealership or business which is not a member of
       the state or local dealer association sponsoring AUTOCAP.

For more information on AUTOCAP in South Carolina or to file a complaint
contact:
          South Carolina AUTOCAP
          South Carolina Automobile and Truck Dealers Association
          1517 Laurel Street
          Columbia, SC 29201
          254-4040
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOLL FREE NUMBERS                               
-DOC-
                               TOLL FREE NUMBERS
    Joyce H. Christenbury, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

Several appliance manufacturers provide toll-free 800 numbers for locating
parts and service for their products.  In addition to service help, some
hotlines also handle consumer inquiries about the company's products, plus
general questions on appliance selection, use and care.  (All numbers listed
here are for "service information only," unless noted otherwise.)

ADMIRAL HOME APPLIANCES                            800/447-8371
 Product information                               800-FAST ICE

CARRIER CORPORATION                                800/227-7437

CUISINARTS, INC.                                   800/243-8540

EMERSON QUIET KOOL CORPORATION                     800/447-4700

FEDDERS - USA                                      800/621-5199

GENERAL ELECTRIC COMPANY                           800/626-2000
 Product information                               800/626-2000
HAMILTON BEACH DIVISION/SCOVILL INC.               800/334-2785

KELVINATOR APPLIANCE COMPANY                       800/245-0600

PATTON ELECTRIC COMPANY                            800/348-1930

ROPER CORPORATION                                  800/447-6737

TAPPAN COMPANY                                     800/447-2882

WHIRLPOOL CORPORATION                              800/253-1301
 Product information                               800/253-1301

WHITE-WESTINGHOUSE APPLIANCE COMPANY               800/245-0600

To see if these numbers are correct (numbers change from time to time) or if a
company not listed has a toll-free number, dial 1-800-555-1212 and give the
company name in question.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FISH OIL SUPPLEMENTS	                              
-DOC-
                              FISH OIL SUPPLEMENTS	
             Rose J. Davis, Extension Food and Nutrition Specialist	
	
What are the latest buzz words in nutrition - fish oil pills!  The drug 
manufacturers have jumped on the band wagon and are turning these out by the 
thousands.	
	
What makes fish oil so special?  While studying the Eskimos's low incidence of 
cardiovascular disease, researchers discovered that they ate fish containing a 
polyunsaturated fatty acid called omega-3.  When the omega-3 fatty acid is 
present, it seems the blood is less likely to clot in the coronary arteries 
causing a heart attack.  It appears to be more effective than the other 
polyunsaturated fatty acids in lowering the total cholesterol and triglyceride 
levels in the blood.	
	
Other claims have been made for fish oil supplements including relief from 
migraine headaches, arthritis, psoriasis, allergic asthma, and perhaps some 
types of cancer.  All of these claims need to be investigated by long-term 
human studies.	 
	
Many questions remain unanswered concerning the fish oil supplements.  How many 
pills do you need to take?  Recommendations range from 3 to 20 capsules a day!	
The American Heart Association states, "the limited information available 
at present does not justify specific quantitative recommendations". No one 
knows what an adequate and/or safe dose of fish oil is.	 
	
What are the effects of using fish oil supplements for long periods of time?  
Is it only the omega-3 fatty acid in the fish or is this substance acting with 
something else in the fish to help lower the total cholesterol level?	
	
What do we recommend?  Until more is known, eat fish rather than taking the 
fish oil supplements.  Fish is a good source of protein, B-vitamins, iron 
and other nutrients.  Two or three servings of fish a week should be enough.	
	
What fish should you choose? All fish have some omega-3, but dark flesh fish 
are usually higher in this fatty acid.  Salmon, mackerel, herring, sardines, 
lake trout, fresh tuna, whitefish, and anchovies are the best choices.  Good 
selections with a moderate content would be, halibut, bluefish, rainbow and sea 
trout, ocean perch, bass, and mullet.  Oysters have a fair amount of omega-3.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS ON NUTRITION	                       
-DOC-
                       QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS ON NUTRITION	
          Rose J. Davis, Extension Food and Nutrition Specialist	
	
Consumers are bombarded by nutrition information daily.  Many consumers have 
questions.  To help clear up some of the confusion, this section will answer 
some of the questions asked to Clemson Extension Service staff members.  If you 
have a question, contact Rose Davis at Clemson University Extension Service.	 
	
Dear Rose:	
	
I noticed the initials R.D. after your name on a letter I received from you.	
Does that stand for Rose Davis?
	
R.E., Clemson	
	
Good pun, R.E.!  The initials R.D. after my name stand for Registered 
Dietetian.  These initials are used by persons who have completed a college 
and/or graduate program in foods and nutrition approved by the American 
Dietetic Association and have successfully passed an examination given by the 
Commission on Dietetic Registration.  Each registered dietetian must complete 
75 hours of further training every five years to maintain certification.  If a 
person has R.D. after their name, it indicates that they are a reliable source 
of nutrition information.	
	
Dear Rose:	
	
Please settle an argument between my wife and I.  I say butter has more 
calories than maragine. Who is right?	
	
J.W., Beaufort	
	
Sorry, J W., you lose!  Butter and margarine both have 35 calories per 
teaspoon.	
	
Dear Rose:	
	
How much cholesterol do pecans contain?	
	
D.M., Sumter	
	
Pecans contain no cholesterol.  Cholesterol is contained only in animal 
products.  Plant foods do not contain cholesterol.  The next time the 100% corn 
oil advertisement comes on television and says it contains no cholesterol - 
LAUGH!  Anyone in "the know" knows plants cannot contain cholesterol!  
 
 
 
    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                    
-DOC-
                    TOTAL LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville           318        355        331        341        311
Aiken              1689       1830       1741       1716       1741
Allendale           226        226        198        208        197
Anderson           1944       1931       1819       1778       1779
Bamberg             295        288        312        304        283
Barnwell            344        356        317        319        305
Beaufort           1320       1399       1440       1429       1394
Berkeley           1990       2017       2036       2147       2159
Calhoun             215        188        231        171        179
Charleston         4996       5089       5328       5566       5476
Cherokee            634        583        611        576        546
Chester             595        564        543        501        517
Chesterfield        639        614        556        526        529
Clarendon           509        468        499        446        446
Colleton            510        542        546        521        544
Darlington          936        955        919        856        851
Dillon              599        577        547        548        542
Dorchester         1052       1097       1126       1144       1254
Edgefield           300        316        291        293        288
Fairfield           340        316        315        322        323
Florence           1990       1897       1856       1745       1801
Georgetown          800        766        757        764        728
Greenville         4400       4393       4389       4278       4218
Greenwood           870        834        857        819        812
Hampton             344        373        353        376        303
Horry              1895       1755       1863       1854       1896
Jasper              308        308        281        309        267
Kershaw             614        624        580        588        633
Lancaster           832        795        809        726        725
Laurens             787        765        758        741        759
Lee                 317        338        291        306        317
Lexington          2010       2066       2066       2160       2137
McCormick           158        143        133        120        118
Marion              641        625        620        553        553
Marlboro            591        556        517        497        478
Newberry            456        497        457        454        447
Oconee              748        683        711        660        676
Orangeburg         1502       1561       1488       1413       1333
Pickens            1044       1019        985        894        979
Richland           4032       4201       4239       4178       4072
Saluda              247        258        279        264        252
Spartanburg        3128       3064       3030       2888       2939
Sumter             1773       1755       1756       1750       1774
Union               482        444        417        401        355
Williamsburg        768        674        724        639        616
York               1720       1640       1632       1642       1709

TOTAL (State)     51908      51745      51554      50731      50561

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics. Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL MALE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                  
-DOC-
                  TOTAL MALE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville           154        189        163        172        167
Aiken               869        933        887        906        899
Allendale           123        114        109        110        101
Anderson           1029       1005        944        902        874
Bamberg             149        150        154        141        131
Barnwell            169        186        158        143        167
Beaufort            690        696        718        715        671
Berkeley           1034       1054       1013       1104       1132
Calhoun             123         94        104         90         91
Charleston         2572       2591       2671       2815       2772
Cherokee            305        298        333        293        285
Chester             286        316        273        251        269
Chesterfield        330        296        290        259        271
Clarendon           244        232        244        239        232
Colleton            247        273        287        272        285
Darlington          486        485        460        453        425
Dillon              321        284        294        265        269
Dorchester          546        545        573        571        641
Edgefield           147        152        139        162        136
Fairfield           186        141        157        162        167
Florence           1031        967        957        892        909
Georgetown          387        391        365        388        363
Greenville         2218       2240       2218       2148       2171
Greenwood           422        418        435        438        417
Hampton             174        178        190        198        146
Horry               991        915        904        990        954
Jasper              162        153        149        157        120
Kershaw             316        306        296        316        313
Lancaster           428        401        418        346        346
Laurens             405        402        384        409        369
Lee                 157        167        147        153        174
Lexington          1054       1003       1058       1093       1045
McCormick            81         72         67         59         53
Marion              306        306        307        278        271
Marlboro            279        278        288        263        265
Newberry            238        266        214        224        236
Oconee              396        339        369        325        364
Orangeburg          785        792        759        725        686
Pickens             536        522        485        467        529
Richland           2063       2138       2187       2096       2069
Saluda              113        130        129        140        138
Spartanburg        1582       1542       1522       1494       1502
Sumter              927        869        904        851        889
Union               245        214        222        191        173
Williamsburg        403        361        373        312        323
York                886        826        851        809        833

TOTAL (State)     26595      26230      26169      25787      25643

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL FEMALE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                  
-DOC-
                  TOTAL FEMALE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville           164        166        168        169        144
Aiken               820        897        854        810        842
Allendale           103        112         89         98         96
Anderson            915        926        875        876        905
Bamberg             146        138        158        163        152
Barnwell            175        170        159        176        138
Beaufort            630        703        722        714        723
Berkeley            956        963       1023       1043       1027
Calhoun              92         94        127         81         88
Charleston         2424       2498       2657       2751       2704
Cherokee            329        285        278        283        261
Chester             309        248        270        250        248
Chesterfield        309        318        266        267        258
Clarendon           265        236        255        207        214
Colleton            263        269        259        249        259
Darlington          450        470        459        403        426
Dillon              278        293        253        283        273
Dorchester          506        552        553        573        613
Edgefield           153        164        152        131        152
Fairfield           154        175        158        160        156
Florence            959        930        899        853        892
Georgetown          413        375        392        376        365
Greenville         2182       2153       2171       2130       2047
Greenwood           448        416        422        381        395
Hampton             170        195        163        178        157
Horry               904        840        959        864        942
Jasper              146        155        132        152        147
Kershaw             298        318        284        272        320
Lancaster           404        394        391        380        379
Laurens             382        363        374        332        390
Lee                 160        171        144        153        143
Lexington           956       1063       1008       1067       1092
McCormick            77         71         66         61         65
Marion              335        319        313        275        282
Marlboro            312        278        229        234        213
Newberry            218        231        243        230        211
Oconee              352        344        342        335        312
Orangeburg          717        769        729        688        647
Pickens             508        497        500        427        450
Richland           1969       2063       2052       2082       2003
Saluda              134        128        150        124        114
Spartanburg        1546       1522       1508       1394       1437
Sumter              846        886        852        899        885
Union               237        230        195        210        182
Williamsburg        365        313        351        327        293
York                834        814        781        833        876

TOTAL (State)     25313      25515      25385      24944      24918

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL WHITE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                   
-DOC-
                   TOTAL WHITE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville           185        203        198        192        183
Aiken              1094       1222       1134       1129       1197
Allendale            44         52         56         38         49
Anderson           1516       1459       1381       1369       1363
Bamberg              95        101        106         94        108
Barnwell            162        173        144        144        170
Beaufort            781        828        859        881        843
Berkeley           1371       1342       1381       1518       1512
Calhoun              66         52         77         62         77
Charleston         2730       2793       2998       3121       3034
Cherokee            414        400        408        399        375
Chester             293        259        258        237        255
Chesterfield        357        361        320        315        300
Clarendon           159        129        167        140        125
Colleton            197        231        242        233        248
Darlington          461        458        484        426        447
Dillon              252        244        245        236        214
Dorchester          723        771        787        808        907
Edgefield           108        139        116        131        126
Fairfield           102         95         95         89         97
Florence           1012        971        921        837        894
Georgetown          330        324        318        371        316
Greenville         3304       3381       3334       3264       3249
Greenwood           503        483        493        451        482
Hampton             104        104        110        125         97
Horry              1247       1238       1303       1282       1360
Jasper               86        119        110         92         94
Kershaw             364        364        336        365        401
Lancaster           529        518        521        446        468
Laurens             490        505        465        456        468
Lee                  76         82         78         84         77
Lexington          1709       1710       1727       1817       1811
McCormick            42         31         31         39         41
Marion              220        206        213        190        182
Marlboro            239        210        214        227        190
Newberry            231        279        245        239        236
Oconee              658        598        635        587        586
Orangeburg          475        501        470        485        419
Pickens             938        933        889        816        885
Richland           1948       1957       1962       2054       1975
Saluda              119        127        131        134        129
Spartanburg        2270       2220       2201       2116       2110
Sumter              866        839        898        870        943
Union               290        244        257        252        210
Williamsburg        220        158        201        159        160
York               1179       1128       1133       1128       1194

TOTAL State       30559      30542      30652      30448      30607

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL WHITE MALE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)               
-DOC-
               TOTAL WHITE MALE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville            81        107         97        101        105
Aiken               562        631        581        594        624
Allendale            23         22         34         18         29
Anderson            812        769        720        691        678
Bamberg              58         57         47         38         50
Barnwell             79         85         74         69         97
Beaufort            409        420        434        452        407
Berkeley            716        700        712        783        796
Calhoun              37         30         34         33         44
Charleston         1428       1452       1513       1600       1561
Cherokee            194        210        224        211        193
Chester             138        142        115        121        132
Chesterfield        193        169        166        160        158
Clarendon            93         69         94         77         67
Colleton             95        113        129        121        131
Darlington          243        244        233        220        226
Dillon              142        119        134        112        117
Dorchester          381        386        394        416        478
Edgefield            54         68         52         72         61
Fairfield            52         38         43         49         51
Florence            543        498        481        445        460
Georgetown          160        170        161        192        156
Greenville         1710       1729       1718       1646       1677
Greenwood           245        243        253        233        241
Hampton              53         51         55         70         57
Horry               649        660        639        698        700
Jasper               40         58         60         44         40
Kershaw             187        184        182        195        210
Lancaster           269        277        259        213        224
Laurens             246        260        243        257        224
Lee                  37         37         41         47         38
Lexington           897        830        872        919        885
McCormick            22         15         14         21         16
Marion               95        102         98         96         82
Marlboro            107        114        112        123        115
Newberry            128        156        110        111        122
Oconee              348        296        326        290        320
Orangeburg          256        252        240        263        216
Pickens             486        477        437        431        483
Richland            962       1003        993       1044       1003
Saluda               52         62         63         72         70
Spartanburg        1237       1114       1086       1102       1077
Sumter              448        427        460        422        460
Union               148        119        136        110        104
Williamsburg        103         85        106         76         90
York                605        582        592        554        589

TOTAL (State)     15723      15632      15567      15612      15664

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL WHITE FEMALE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)              
-DOC-
              TOTAL WHITE FEMALE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville           104         96        101         91         78
Aiken               532        591        553        535        573
Allendale            21         30         22         20         20
Anderson            704        690        661        678        685
Bamberg              37         44         59         56         58
Barnwell             83         88         70         75         73
Beaufort            372        408        425        429        436
Berkeley            655        642        669        735        716
Calhoun              29         22         43         29         33
Charleston         1302       1341       1485       1521       1473
Cherokee            220        190        184        188        182
Chester             155        117        143        116        123
Chesterfield        164        192        154        155        142
Clarendon            66         60         73         63         58
Colleton            102        118        113        112        117
Darlington          218        214        251        206        221
Dillon              110        125        111        124         97
Dorchester          342        385        393        392        429
Edgefield            54         71         64         59         65
Fairfield            50         57         52         40         46
Florence            469        473        440        392        434
Georgetown          170        154        157        179        160
Greenville         1594       1652       1616       1618       1572
Greenwood           258        240        240        218        241
Hampton              51         53         55         55         40
Horry               598        578        664        584        660
Jasper               46         61         50         48         54
Kershaw             177        180        154        170        191
Lancaster           260        241        262        233        244
Laurens             244        245        222        199        244
Lee                  39         45         37         37         39
Lexington           812        880        855        898        926
McCormick            20         16         17         18         25
Marion              125        104        115         94        100
Marlboro            132         96        102        104         75
Newberry            103        123        135        128        114
Oconee              310        302        309        297        266
Orangeburg          219        249        230        222        203
Pickens             452        456        452        385        402
Richland            986        954        969       1010        972
Saluda               67         65         68         62         59
Spartanburg        1133       1106       1115       1014       1033
Sumter              418        412        438        448        483
Union               142        125        121        142        106
Williamsburg        117         73         95         83         70
York                574        546        541        574        605

TOTAL (State)     14836      14910      15085      14836      14943

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL NONWHITE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                
-DOC-
                TOTAL NONWHITE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville           133        152        133        149        128
Aiken               595        608        607        587        544
Allendale           182        174        142        170        148
Anderson            428        472        438        409        416
Bamberg             200        187        206        210        175
Barnwell            182        183        173        175        135
Beaufort            539        571        581        548        551
Berkeley            619        675        655        629        647
Calhoun             149        136        154        109        102
Charleston         2266       2296       2330       2445       2442
Cherokee            220        183        203        177        171
Chester             302        305        285        264        262
Chesterfield        282        253        236        211        229
Clarendon           350        339        332        306        321
Colleton            313        311        304        288        296
Darlington          475        497        435        430        404
Dillon              347        333        302        312        328
Dorchester          329        326        339        336        347
Edgefield           192        177        175        162        162
Fairfield           238        221        220        233        226
Florence            978        926        935        908        907
Georgetown          470        442        439        393        412
Greenville         1096       1012       1055       1014        969
Greenwood           367        351        364        368        330
Hampton             240        269        243        251        206
Horry               648        517        560        572        536
Jasper              222        189        171        217        173
Kershaw             250        260        244        223        232
Lancaster           303        277        288        280        257
Laurens             297        260        293        285        291
Lee                 241        256        213        222        240
Lexington           301        356        339        343        326
McCormick           116        112        102         81         77
Marion              421        419        407        363        371
Marlboro            352        346        303        270        288
Newberry            225        218        212        215        211
Oconee               90         85         76         73         90
Orangeburg         1027       1060       1018        928        914
Pickens             106         86         96         78         94
Richland           2084       2244       2277       2124       2097
Saluda              128        131        148        130        123
Spartanburg         858        844        829        772        829
Sumter              907        916        858        880        831
Union               192        200        160        149        145
Williamsburg        548        516        523        480        456
York                541        512        499        514        515

TOTAL (State)     21349      21203      20902      20283      19954

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL NONWHITE MALE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)               
-DOC-
               TOTAL NONWHITE MALE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville            73         82         66         71         62
Aiken               307        302        306        312        275
Allendale           100         92         75         92         72
Anderson            217        236        224        211        196
Bamberg              91         93        107        103         81
Barnwell             90        101         84         74         70
Beaufort            281        276        284        263        264
Berkeley            318        354        301        321        336
Calhoun              86         64         70         57         47
Charleston         1144       1139       1158       1215       1211
Cherokee            111         88        109         82         92
Chester             148        174        158        130        137
Chesterfield        137        127        124         99        113
Clarendon           151        163        150        162        165
Colleton            152        160        158        151        154
Darlington          243        241        227        233        199
Dillon              179        165        160        153        152
Dorchester          165        159        179        155        163
Edgefield            93         84         87         90         75
Fairfield           134        103        114        113        116
Florence            488        469        476        447        449
Georgetown          227        221        204        196        207
Greenville          508        511        500        502        494
Greenwood           177        175        182        205        176
Hampton             121        127        135        128         89
Horry               342        255        265        292        254
Jasper              122         95         89        113         80
Kershaw             129        122        114        121        103
Lancaster           159        124        159        133        122
Laurens             159        142        141        152        145
Lee                 120        130        106        106        136
Lexington           157        173        186        174        160
McCormick            59         57         53         38         37
Marion              211        204        209        182        189
Marlboro            172        164        176        140        150
Newberry            110        110        104        113        114
Oconee               48         43         43         35         44
Orangeburg          529        540        519        462        470
Pickens              50         45         48         36         46
Richland           1101       1135       1194       1052       1066
Saluda               61         68         66         68         68
Spartanburg         445        428        436        392        425
Sumter              479        442        444        429        429
Union                97         95         86         81         69
Williamsburg        300        276        267        236        233
York                281        244        259        255        244

TOTAL (State)     10872      10598      10602      10175       9979

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL NONWHITE FEMALE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)             
-DOC-
             TOTAL NONWHITE FEMALE LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville            60         70         67         78         66
Aiken               288        306        301        275        269
Allendale            82         82         67         78         76
Anderson            211        236        214        198        220
Bamberg             109         94         99        107         94
Barnwell             92         82         89        101         65
Beaufort            258        295        297        285        287
Berkeley            301        321        354        308        311
Calhoun              63         72         84         52         55
Charleston         1122       1157       1172       1230       1231
Cherokee            109         95         94         95         79
Chester             154        131        127        134        125
Chesterfield        145        126        112        112        116
Clarendon           199        176        182        144        156
Colleton            161        151        146        137        142
Darlington          232        256        208        197        205
Dillon              168        168        142        159        176
Dorchester          164        167        160        181        184
Edgefield            99         93         88         72         87
Fairfield           104        118        106        120        110
Florence            490        457        459        461        458
Georgetown          243        221        235        197        205
Greenville          588        501        555        512        475
Greenwood           190        176        182        163        154
Hampton             119        142        108        123        117
Horry               306        262        295        280        282
Jasper              100         94         82        104         93
Kershaw             121        138        130        102        129
Lancaster           144        153        129        147        135
Laurens             138        118        152        133        146
Lee                 121        126        107        116        104
Lexington           144        183        153        169        166
McCormick            57         55         49         43         40
Marion              210        215        198        181        182
Marlboro            180        182        127        130        138
Newberry            115        108        108        102         97
Oconee               42         42         33         38         46
Orangeburg          498        520        499        466        444
Pickens              56         41         48         42         48
Richland            983       1109       1083       1072       1031
Saluda               67         63         82         62         55
Spartanburg         413        416        393        380        404
Sumter              428        474        414        451        402
Union                95        105         74         68         76
Williamsburg        248        240        256        244        223
York                260        268        240        259        271

TOTAL (State)     10477      10605      10300      10108       9975

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LIVE BIRTHS WITH NUMBER OF REPORTED CONGENITAL MALFORMATIONS* (RESIDENCE DATA)
-DOC-
LIVE BIRTHS WITH NUMBER OF REPORTED CONGENITAL MALFORMATIONS* (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville             5          -          -          3          2
Aiken                16         10         12         21         13
Allendale             4          1          -          4          2
Anderson              6          9         16         16          8
Bamberg               2          6          5          8          5
Barnwell              4          3          1          4          -
Beaufort             19         18         12         18         11
Berkeley             16         26         16         17         14
Calhoun               1          2          3          2          2
Charleston           30         71         45         59         46
Cherokee              5         10          3          3          2
Chester               7          5         13          9          5
Chesterfield          8         11          9          8          6
Clarendon             2          5          2          6          3
Colleton             10          6          5          4          9
Darlington            9         17         12          6          9
Dillon               33         41         27         19          4
Dorchester            8         10         12         13          7
Edgefield             5          6          3          8          2
Fairfield             1          4          -          2          7
Florence             12          8          2          1          6
Georgetown            3          8          3          6          7
Greenville           12         17         16         29         12
Greenwood             5          5          2          2          -
Hampton               1          1          2          5          2
Horry                15         12         16         14         16
Jasper                3          4          -          6          -
Kershaw               4          8          6          5          6
Lancaster            12          9          5          8          5
Laurens               8          9         13          3          2
Lee                   3          3          -          2          3
Lexington            14         11          4         13          6
McCormick             1          1          -          1          -
Marion                5          3          4          6          2
Marlboro             11          9          4          2          8
Newberry              4          4          4         11          4
Oconee                7          9          7          3         12
Orangeburg           17         19         10         20          8
Pickens               6         10         10         12         17
Richland             20         45         36         42         26
Saluda                2          1          5          1          1
Spartanburg          17         17         15         12         10
Sumter               13         13         13         18         21
Union                 4          5          2          2          2
Williamsburg          3          3          4          7          5
York                 15         14         23          5          8

TOTAL (State)       408        509        402        466        346

*Classified & coded according to the International Classification of
Diseases, (ICD) Ninth Revision 740-759.

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1982, 1983, 1985). South
Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South Carolina.  All data
are based on the calendar year. Data for 1981, 1982 & 1983 came from the
1983 publication;  data for 1980 came from the 1982 publication.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL LOW WEIGHT* LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)               
-DOC-
               TOTAL LOW WEIGHT* LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville            17         25         21         29         24
Aiken               132        176        156        141        138
Allendale            21         25         33         28         24
Anderson            144        174        140        137        121
Bamberg              37         28         31         27         27
Barnwell             26         26         34         38         28
Beaufort            106        112        114        119        100
Berkeley            150        167        157        127        146
Calhoun              16         22         24         10         15
Charleston          478        450        256        473        477
Cherokee             51         51         50         63         52
Chester              57         46         46         55         49
Chesterfield         58         75         55         55         51
Clarendon            67         47         55         59         58
Colleton             46         38         57         49         49
Darlington           86         96         85         89         87
Dillon               70         59         54         63         58
Dorchester           86         89         84         87         84
Edgefield            29         29         32         30         31
Fairfield            37         42         37         33         34
Florence            166        169        182        157        204
Georgetown           67         72         75         64         73
Greenville          371        339        358        338        379
Greenwood            75         73         90         72         60
Hampton              35         36         30         31         25
Horry               145        134        146        149        154
Jasper               34         30         31         36         21
Kershaw              49         35         44         50         49
Lancaster            80         77         79         70         69
Laurens              71         75         67         54         80
Lee                  46         45         34         29         38
Lexington           120        154        138        147        142
McCormick            11         13         10         12         12
Marion               66         72         63         55         69
Marlboro             63         75         47         58         48
Newberry             47         36         38         43         43
Oconee               52         45         49         53         52
Orangeburg          131        172        174        143        132
Pickens              61         62         65         69         68
Richland            395        366        431        380        379
Saluda               16         32         39         17         27
Spartanburg         263        271        253        242        243
Sumter              164        154        150        173        160
Union                35         37         40         35         43
Williamsburg         64         78         90         58         65
York                152        153        136        148        143

TOTAL (State)      4493       4582       4580       4395       4431

*Live birth weighing 2500 grams or less (1980).  Live birth weighing less
than 2500 grams (1981, 1982, 1983, 1984).

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL WHITE LOW WEIGHT* LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)           
-DOC-
           TOTAL WHITE LOW WEIGHT* LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville             8          9         10         16         10
Aiken                57         75         69         68         72
Allendale             3          5          6          2          4
Anderson             97        103         84         88         80
Bamberg               7          4          6          2          7
Barnwell              5          6          6          9          9
Beaufort             32         40         41         57         37
Berkeley             82         90         91         69         76
Calhoun               3          1          3          3          1
Charleston          186        158        151        176        178
Cherokee             31         25         31         35         29
Chester              21         18         12         13         16
Chesterfield         15         32         17         23         20
Clarendon            14          7         14         15          7
Colleton             11          7         15         14         13
Darlington           26         27         33         24         32
Dillon               18         16         17         23         10
Dorchester           41         49         41         51         44
Edgefield             8         11          7         15         12
Fairfield             6          4          7          7         10
Florence             56         43         57         36         69
Georgetown           19         19         16         14         24
Greenville          208        208        210        201        234
Greenwood            26         35         42         24         27
Hampton               3         10          7          5          7
Horry                65         64         76         78         83
Jasper                4          9         12          5          8
Kershaw              15         21         16         31         23
Lancaster            39         49         37         35         35
Laurens              34         40         39         21         34
Lee                   4          8          3          5          5
Lexington            91         98        100        102        107
McCormick             3          1          2          2          2
Marion               13         14          9          8          7
Marlboro             22         19         13         20         17
Newberry             20         19         11         12         16
Oconee               45         33         42         41         43
Orangeburg           23         35         31         27         21
Pickens              52         53         53         59         59
Richland            100        101        129        124        122
Saluda                4          8         16          6          9
Spartanburg         160        141        152        130        146
Sumter               46         48         47         57         56
Union                19         18         17         20         20
Williamsburg         12         11         14          7          5
York                 82         84         72         84         70

TOTAL (State)      1836       1876       1884       1864       1916

*Low birth weighing less than 2500 grams.

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL NONWHITE LOW WEIGHT* LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)            
-DOC-
            TOTAL NONWHITE LOW WEIGHT* LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville             9         16         11         13         14
Aiken                75        101         87         73         66
Allendale            18         20         27         26         20
Anderson             47         71         56         49         41
Bamberg              30         24         25         25         20
Barnwell             21         20         28         29         19
Beaufort             74         72         73         62         63
Berkeley             68         77         66         58         70
Calhoun              13         21         21          7         14
Charleston          292        292        305        297        299
Cherokee             20         26         19         28         23
Chester              36         28         34         42         33
Chesterfield         43         43         38         32         31
Clarendon            53         40         41         44         51
Colleton             35         31         42         35         36
Darlington           61         69         52         65         55
Dillon               52         43         37         40         48
Dorchester           45         40         43         36         40
Edgefield            21         18         25         15         19
Fairfield            31         38         30         26         24
Florence            109        126        125        121        135
Georgetown           48         53         59         50         49
Greenville          163        131        148        137        145
Greenwood            49         38         48         48         33
Hampton              32         26         23         26         18
Horry                80         70         70         71         71
Jasper               30         21         19         31         13
Kershaw              34         14         28         19         26
Lancaster            41         28         42         35         34
Laurens              37         35         28         33         46
Lee                  42         37         31         24         33
Lexington            29         56         38         45         35
McCormick             8         12          8         10         10
Marion               53         58         54         47         62
Marlboro             41         56         34         38         31
Newberry             27         17         27         31         27
Oconee                7         12          7         12          9
Orangeburg          108        137        143        116        111
Pickens               9          9         12         10          9
Richland            295        265        302        256        257
Saluda               12         24         23         11         18
Spartanburg         103        130        101        112         97
Sumter              118        106        103        116        104
Union                16         19         23         15         23
Williamsburg         52         67         76         51         60
York                 70         69         64         64         73

TOTAL (State)      2657       2706       2696       2531       2515

*Low birth weighing less than 2500 grams.

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PERCENT OF TOTAL LIVE BIRTHS THAT WERE LOW WEIGHT* (RESIDENCE DATA)     
-DOC-
     PERCENT OF TOTAL LIVE BIRTHS THAT WERE LOW WEIGHT* (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                     1980       1981       1982       1983       1984      1985

Abbeville             5.3        7.0        6.3        8.5        7.7
Aiken                 7.8        9.6        9.0        8.2        7.9
Allendale             9.3       11.1       16.7       13.5       12.2
Anderson              7.4        9.0        7.7        7.7        6.8
Bamberg              12.5        9.7        9.9        8.9        9.5
Barnwell              7.6        7.3       10.7       11.9        9.2
Beaufort              8.0        8.0        7.9        8.3        7.2
Berkeley              7.5        8.3        7.7        5.9        6.8
Calhoun               7.4       11.7       10.4        5.8        8.4
Charleston            9.6        8.8        8.6        8.5        8.7
Cherokee              8.0        8.7        8.2       10.9        9.5
Chester               9.6        8.2        8.5       11.0        9.5
Chesterfield          9.1       12.2        9.9       10.5        9.6
Clarendon            13.2       10.0       11.0       13.2       13.0
Colleton              9.0        7.0       10.4        9.4        9.0
Darlington            9.2       10.1        9.2       10.4       12.0
Dillon               11.7       10.2        9.9       11.5       10.7
Dorchester            8.2        8.1        7.5        7.6        6.7
Edgefield             9.7        9.2       11.0       10.2       10.8
Fairfield            10.9       13.3       11.7       10.2       10.5
Florence              8.3        8.9        9.8        9.0       11.3
Georgetown            8.4        9.4        9.9        8.4       10.0
Greenville            8.4        7.7        8.2        7.9        9.0
Greenwood             8.6        8.8       10.5        8.8        7.4
Hampton              10.2        9.7        8.5        8.2        8.2
Horry                 7.7        7.6        7.8        8.0        8.1
Jasper               11.0        9.7       11.0       11.7        7.9
Kershaw               8.0        5.6        7.6        8.5        7.7
Lancaster             9.6        9.7        9.8        9.6        9.5
Laurens               9.0        9.8        8.8        7.3       10.5
Lee                  14.5       13.3       11.7        9.5       12.0
Lexington             6.0        7.5        6.7        6.8        6.6
McCormick             7.0        9.1        7.5       10.0       10.2
Marion               10.3       11.5       10.2        9.9       12.5
Marlboro             10.7       13.5        9.1       11.7       10.0
Newberry             10.3        7.2        8.3        9.5        9.6
Oconee                7.0        6.6        6.9        8.0        7.7
Orangeburg            8.7       11.0       11.7       10.1        9.9
Pickens               5.8        6.1        6.6        7.7        6.9
Richland              9.8        8.7       10.2        9.1        9.3
Saluda                6.5       12.4       14.0        6.4       10.7
Spartanburg           8.4        8.8        8.3        8.4        8.3
Sumter                9.2        8.8        8.5        9.9        9.0
Union                 7.3        8.3        9.6        8.7       12.1
Williamsburg          8.3       11.6       12.4        9.1       10.6
York                  8.8        9.3        8.3        9.0        8.4

TOTAL (State)         8.7        8.9        8.9        8.7        8.8

*Low birth weighing less than 2500 grams.

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PERCENT OF WHITE LIVE BIRTHS THAT WERE LOW WEIGHT* (RESIDENCE DATA)     
-DOC-
     PERCENT OF WHITE LIVE BIRTHS THAT WERE LOW WEIGHT* (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                     1980       1981       1982       1983       1984      1985

Abbeville             4.3        4.4        5.1        8.3        5.5
Aiken                 5.2        6.1        6.1        6.0        6.0
Allendale             6.8        9.6       10.7        5.3        8.2
Anderson              6.4        7.1        6.1        6.4        5.9
Bamberg               7.4        4.0        5.7        2.1        6.5
Barnwell              3.1        3.5        4.2        6.3        5.3
Beaufort              4.1        4.8        4.8        6.5        4.4
Berkeley              6.0        6.7        6.6        4.5        5.0
Calhoun               4.5        1.9        3.9        4.8        1.3
Charleston            6.8        5.7        5.0        5.6        5.9
Cherokee              7.5        6.3        7.6        8.8        7.7
Chester               7.2        6.9        4.7        5.5        6.3
Chesterfield          4.2        8.9        5.3        7.3        6.7
Clarendon             8.8        5.4        8.4       10.7        5.6
Colleton              5.6        3.0        6.2        6.0        5.2
Darlington            5.6        5.9        6.8        5.6        7.2
Dillon                7.1        6.6        6.9        9.7        4.7
Dorchester            5.7        6.4        5.2        6.3        4.9
Edgefield             7.4        7.9        6.0       11.5        9.5
Fairfield             5.9        4.2        7.4        7.9       10.3
Florence              5.5        4.4        6.2        4.3        7.7
Georgetown            5.8        5.9        5.0        3.8        7.6
Greenville            6.3        6.2        6.3        6.2        7.2
Greenwood             5.2        7.2        8.5        5.3        5.6
Hampton               2.9        9.6        6.4        4.0        7.2
Horry                 5.2        5.2        5.8        6.1        6.1
Jasper                4.7        7.6       10.9        5.4        8.5
Kershaw               4.1        5.8        4.8        8.5        5.7
Lancaster             7.4        9.5        7.1        7.8        7.5
Laurens               6.9        7.9        8.4        4.6        7.3
Lee                   5.3        9.8        3.8        6.0        6.5
Lexington             5.3        5.7        5.8        5.6        5.9
McCormick             7.1        3.2        6.5        5.1        4.9
Marion                5.9        6.8        4.2        4.2        3.8
Marlboro              9.2        9.0        6.1        8.8        8.9
Newberry              8.7        6.8        4.5        5.0        6.8
Oconee                6.8        5.5        6.6        7.0        7.3
Orangeburg            4.8        7.0        6.6        5.6        5.0
Pickens               5.5        5.7        6.0        7.2        6.7
Richland              5.1        5.2        6.6        6.0        6.2
Saluda                3.4        6.3       12.2        4.5        7.0
Spartanburg           7.0        6.4        6.9        6.1        6.9
Sumter                5.3        5.7        5.2        6.6        5.9
Union                 6.6        7.4        6.6        7.9        9.5
Williamsburg          5.5        7.0        7.0        4.4        3.1
York                  7.0        7.4        6.4        7.4        5.9

TOTAL (State)         6.0        6.1        6.1        6.1        6.3

*Low birth weighing less than 2500 grams.

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PERCENT NONWHITE LIVE BIRTHS THAT WERE LOW WEIGHT* (RESIDENCE DATA)     
-DOC-
     PERCENT NONWHITE LIVE BIRTHS THAT WERE LOW WEIGHT* (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                     1980       1981       1982       1983       1984      1985

Abbeville             6.8       10.5        8.3        8.7       10.9
Aiken                12.6       16.6       14.3       12.4       12.1
Allendale             9.9       11.5       19.0       15.3       13.5
Anderson             11.0       15.0       12.8       12.0        9.9
Bamberg              15.0       12.8       12.1       11.9       11.4
Barnwell             11.5       10.9       16.2       16.6       14.1
Beaufort             13.7       12.6       12.6       11.3       11.4
Berkeley             11.0       11.4       10.1        9.2       10.8
Calhoun               8.7       15.4       13.6        6.4       13.7
Charleston           12.9       12.7       13.1       12.1       12.2
Cherokee              9.1       14.2        9.4       15.8       13.4
Chester              11.9        9.2       11.9       15.9       12.6
Chesterfield         15.2       17.0       16.1       15.2       13.5
Clarendon            15.1       11.8       12.3       14.4       15.9
Colleton             11.2       10.0       13.8       12.2       12.2
Darlington           12.8       13.9       12.0       15.1       13.6
Dillon               15.0       12.9       12.3       12.8       14.6
Dorchester           13.7       12.3       12.7       10.7        3.2
Edgefield            10.9       10.2       14.3        9.3       11.7
Fairfield            13.0       17.2       13.6       11.2       10.6
Florence             11.1       13.6       13.4       13.3       14.9
Georgetown           10.2       12.0       13.4       12.7       11.9
Greenville           14.9       12.9       14.0       13.5       15.0
Greenwood            13.4       10.8       13.2       13.0       10.0
Hampton              13.3        9.7        9.5       10.4        8.7
Horry                12.3       13.5       12.5       12.4       13.2
Jasper               13.5       11.1       11.1       14.3        7.5
Kershaw              13.6        5.4       11.5        8.5       11.2
Lancaster            13.5       10.1       14.6       12.5       13.2
Laurens              12.5       13.5        9.6       11.6       15.8
Lee                  17.4       14.5       14.6       10.8       13.8
Lexington             9.6       15.7       11.2       13.1       10.7
McCormick             6.9       10.7        7.8       12.3       13.0
Marion               12.6       13.8       13.3       12.9       16.7
Marlboro             11.6       16.2       11.2       14.1       10.8
Newberry             12.0        7.8       12.7       14.4       12.8
Oconee                7.8       14.1        9.2       16.4       10.0
Orangeburg           10.5       12.9       14.0       12.5       12.1
Pickens               8.5       10.5       12.5       12.8        9.6
Richland             14.2       11.8       13.3       12.1       12.2
Saluda                9.4       18.3       15.5        8.5       14.6
Spartanburg          12.0       15.4       12.2       14.5       11.7
Sumter               13.0       11.6       12.0       13.2       12.5
Union                 8.3        9.5       14.4       10.1       15.9
Williamsburg          9.5       13.0       14.5       10.6       13.2
York                 12.9       13.5       12.8       12.5       14.2

TOTAL (State)        12.4       12.8       12.9       12.5       12.6

*Low birth weighing less than 2500 grams.

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL OUT-OF-WEDLOCK LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)             
-DOC-
             TOTAL OUT-OF-WEDLOCK LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville            73        102         85        114         85
Aiken               315        312        341        332        327
Allendale            90         94         66         88         71
Anderson            280        303        306        312        323
Bamberg              95         96         96        103         95
Barnwell             94         94         93        114         78
Beaufort            263        235        263        239        222
Berkeley            274        268        240        283        283
Calhoun              78         67         81         54         57
Charleston         1225       1224       1363       1518       1493
Cherokee            147        135        145        157        147
Chester             168        148        155        154        156
Chesterfield        139        125        120        141        151
Clarendon           172        161        157        153        168
Colleton            146        148        152        145        152
Darlington          248        281        269        243        241
Dillon              219        210        190        207        221
Dorchester          135        133        147        174        166
Edgefield            75         89         92         75         88
Fairfield           108        103        113        108        112
Florence            478        468        510        502        505
Georgetown          222        199        213        189        196
Greenville          723        718        749        787        769
Greenwood           186        198        210        208        207
Hampton             100        102         95        124         94
Horry               361        312        366        373        367
Jasper              115        110        101        125         97
Kershaw             116        139        135        130        126
Lancaster           165        154        164        167        150
Laurens             186        178        213        217        215
Lee                 113        145         94        113        139
Lexington           191        245        238        238        270
McCormick            54         59         46         46         51
Marion              202        212        203        210        205
Marlboro            211        208        191        189        221
Newberry            115        122        128        106        117
Oconee               70         66         57         64         78
Orangeburg          501        551        525        503        477
Pickens              92         77        100         88        111
Richland            889        986       1013        976       1009
Saluda               64         54         82         68         71
Spartanburg         621        603        618        617        674
Sumter              389        410        413        429        400
Union                93        121         89        110        107
Williamsburg        225        204        224        211        211
York                365        370        375        404        413

TOTAL (State)     11191      11339      11626      11908      11916

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PERCENT OF TOTAL LIVE BIRTHS OUT-OF-WEDLOCK (RESIDENCE DATA)         
-DOC-
         PERCENT OF TOTAL LIVE BIRTHS OUT-OF-WEDLOCK (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                     1980       1981       1982       1983       1984      1985

Abbeville            23.0       28.7       25.7       33.4       27.3
Aiken                18.7       17.0       19.6       19.3       18.8
Allendale            39.8       41.6       33.3       42.3       36.0
Anderson             14.4       15.7       16.8       17.5       18.2
Bamberg              32.2       33.3       30.8       33.9       33.6
Barnwell             27.3       26.4       29.3       35.7       25.6
Beaufort             19.9       16.8       18.3       16.7       15.9
Berkeley             13.8       13.3       11.8       13.2       13.1
Calhoun              36.3       35.6       35.1       31.6       31.8
Charleston           24.5       24.1       25.6       27.3       27.3
Cherokee             23.2       23.2       23.7       27.3       26.9
Chester              28.2       26.2       28.5       30.7       30.2
Chesterfield         21.8       20.4       21.6       26.8       28.5
Clarendon            33.8       34.4       31.5       34.3       37.7
Colleton             28.6       27.3       27.8       27.8       27.9
Darlington           26.6       29.4       29.3       28.4       28.3
Dillon               36.6       36.4       34.7       37.8       40.8
Dorchester           12.8       12.1       13.1       15.2       13.2
Edgefield            25.0       28.2       31.6       25.6       30.6
Fairfield            31.8       32.6       35.6       33.5       34.7
Florence             24.0       24.7       27.5       28.8       28.0
Georgetown           27.8       26.0       28.1       24.7       26.9
Greenville           16.4       16.3       17.1       18.4       18.2
Greenwood            21.4       23.7       24.5       25.4       25.5
Hampton              29.1       27.3       26.9       33.0       31.0
Horry                19.1       17.8       19.6       20.1       19.4
Jasper               37.3       35.7       35.9       40.5       36.3
Kershaw              18.9       22.3       23.3       22.1       19.9
Lancaster            19.8       19.4       20.3       23.0       20.7
Laurens              23.6       23.3       28.1       29.3       28.3
Lee                  35.6       42.9       32.3       36.9       43.8
Lexington             9.5       11.9       11.5       11.0       12.6
McCormick            34.2       41.3       34.6       38.3       43.2
Marion               31.5       33.9       32.7       38.0       37.1
Marlboro             35.7       37.4       36.9       38.0       46.2
Newberry             25.2       24.5       28.0       23.3       26.2
Oconee                9.4        9.7        8.0        9.7       11.5
Orangeburg           33.4       35.3       35.3       35.6       35.8
Pickens               8.8        7.6       10.2        9.8       11.3
Richland             22.0       23.5       23.9       23.4       24.8
Saluda               25.9       20.9       29.4       25.8       28.2
Spartanburg          19.9       19.7       20.4       21.4       22.9
Sumter               21.9       23.4       23.5       24.5       22.5
Union                19.3       27.3       21.3       27.4       30.1
Williamsburg         29.3       30.3       30.9       33.0       34.3
York                 21.2       22.6       23.0       24.6       24.2

TOTAL (State)        21.6       21.9       22.6       23.5       23.6

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL WHITE OUT-OF-WEDLOCK LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)           
-DOC-
           TOTAL WHITE OUT-OF-WEDLOCK LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville             6          9         11         14         11
Aiken                76         81         82         83         93
Allendale             4          1          3          4          3
Anderson             87         77         92         86         99
Bamberg               8          6          4          3         10
Barnwell             11         14         12         13         11
Beaufort             34         22         39         42         28
Berkeley             60         50         77         74         80
Calhoun               1          2          5          2          2
Charleston          173        172        245        269        243
Cherokee             24         26         32         44         36
Chester              20          8         20         13         17
Chesterfield         17         12         25         32         21
Clarendon            10          7         11          6         10
Colleton             13         14         16         18         11
Darlington           19         17         33         22         31
Dillon               19         25         34         32         23
Dorchester           36         41         34         53         45
Edgefield             4          8          1          4          3
Fairfield             7          5          8          4          8
Florence             46         50         57         46         62
Georgetown           19         17         16         20         14
Greenville          216        189        197        224        219
Greenwood            24         33         31         29         42
Hampton               6          2          8         10          5
Horry                65         71         91         90        110
Jasper                8          9          4          4          9
Kershaw              20         17         23         22         21
Lancaster            29         36         33         31         28
Laurens              32         36         42         39         40
Lee                   1          2          2          3          5
Lexington            73         95         93         99        128
McCormick             1          -          2          -          2
Marion               20         16         15         20         14
Marlboro             36         34         28         40         39
Newberry              6         13         11          5         10
Oconee               31         36         32         43         38
Orangeburg           25         37         31         34         19
Pickens              40         43         60         51         74
Richland            104        102        115        111        125
Saluda                5          5          7          5          4
Spartanburg         163        143        158        189        171
Sumter               53         50         51         51         45
Union                11         20         21         26         18
Williamsburg         12          4          6          4          5
York                 72         78         95         91         97

TOTAL (State)      1747       1735       2013       2105       2129

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PERCENT OF WHITE LIVE BIRTHS OUT-OF-WEDLOCK (RESIDENCE DATA)        
-DOC-
        PERCENT OF WHITE LIVE BIRTHS OUT-OF-WEDLOCK (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                     1980       1981       1982       1983       1984      1985

Abbeville             3.2        4.4        5.6        7.3        6.0
Aiken                 6.9        6.6        7.2        7.4        7.8
Allendale             9.1        1.9        5.4       10.5        6.1
Anderson              5.7        5.3        6.7        6.3        7.3
Bamberg               8.4        5.9        3.8        3.2        9.3
Barnwell              6.8        8.1        8.3        9.0        6.5
Beaufort              4.4        2.7        4.5        4.8        3.3
Berkeley              4.4        3.7        5.6        4.9        5.3
Calhoun               1.5        3.8        6.5        3.2        2.6
Charleston            6.3        6.2        8.2        8.6        8.0
Cherokee              5.8        6.5        7.8       11.0        9.6
Chester               6.8        3.1        7.8        5.5        6.7
Chesterfield          4.8        3.3        7.8       10.2        7.0
Clarendon             6.3        5.4        6.6        4.3        8.0
Colleton              6.6        6.1        6.6        7.7        4.4
Darlington            4.1        3.7        6.8        5.2        6.9
Dillon                7.5       10.2       13.9       13.6       10.7
Dorchester            5.0        5.3        4.3        6.6        5.0
Edgefield             3.7        5.8        0.9        3.1        2.4
Fairfield             6.9        5.3        8.4        4.5        8.2
Florence              4.5        5.1        6.2        5.5        6.9
Georgetown            5.8        5.2        5.0        5.4        4.4
Greenville            6.5        5.6        5.9        6.9        6.7
Greenwood             4.8        6.8        6.3        6.4        8.7
Hampton               5.8        1.9        7.3        8.0        5.2
Horry                 5.2        5.7        7.0        7.0        8.1
Jasper                9.3        7.6        3.6        4.3        9.6
Kershaw               5.5        4.7        6.8        6.0        5.2
Lancaster             5.5        6.9        6.3        7.0        6.0
Laurens               6.5        7.1        9.0        8.6        8.5
Lee                   1.3        2.4        2.6        3.6        6.5
Lexington             4.3        5.6        5.4        5.4        7.1
McCormick             2.4        0          6.5        0          4.9
Marion                9.1        7.8        7.0       10.5        7.7
Marlboro             15.1       16.2       13.1       17.6       20.5
Newberry              2.6        4.7        4.5        2.1        4.2
Oconee                4.7        6.0        5.0        7.3        6.5
Orangeburg            5.3        7.4        6.6        7.0        4.5
Pickens               4.3        4.6        6.7        6.3        8.4
Richland              5.3        5.2        5.9        5.4        6.3
Saluda                4.2        3.9        5.3        3.7        3.1
Spartanburg           7.2        6.4        7.2        8.9        8.1
Sumter                6.1        6.0        5.7        5.9        4.8
Union                 3.8        8.2        8.2       10.3        8.6
Williamsburg          5.5        2.5        3.0        2.5        3.1
York                  6.1        6.9        8.4        8.1        8.1

TOTAL (State)         5.7        5.7        6.6        6.9        7.0

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL NONWHITE OUT-OF-WEDLOCK LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)          
-DOC-
          TOTAL NONWHITE OUT-OF-WEDLOCK LIVE BIRTHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville            67         93         74        100         74
Aiken               239        231        259        249        234
Allendale            86         93         63         84         68
Anderson            193        226        214        226        224
Bamberg              87         90         92        100         85
Barnwell             83         80         81        101         67
Beaufort            229        213        224        197        194
Berkeley            214        218        163        209        203
Calhoun              77         65         76         52         55
Charleston         1052       1052       1118       1249       1250
Cherokee            123        109        113        113        111
Chester             148        140        135        141        139
Chesterfield        122        113         95        109        130
Clarendon           162        154        146        147        158
Colleton            133        134        136        127        141
Darlington          229        264        236        221        210
Dillon              200        185        156        175        198
Dorchester           99         92        113        121        121
Edgefield            71         81         91         71         85
Fairfield           101         98        105        104        104
Florence            432        418        453        456        443
Georgetown          203        182        197        169        182
Greenville          507        529        552        563        550
Greenwood           162        165        179        179        165
Hampton              94        100         87        114         89
Horry               296        241        275        283        257
Jasper              107        101         97        121         88
Kershaw              96        122        112        108        105
Lancaster           136        118        131        136        122
Laurens             154        142        171        178        175
Lee                 112        143         92        110        134
Lexington           118        150        145        139        142
McCormick            53         59         44         46         49
Marion              182        196        188        190        191
Marlboro            175        174        163        149        182
Newberry            109        109        117        101        107
Oconee               39         30         25         21         40
Orangeburg          476        514        494        469        458
Pickens              52         34         40         37         37
Richland            785        884        898        865        884
Saluda               59         49         75         63         67
Spartanburg         458        490        460        428        503
Sumter              336        360        362        378        355
Union                82        101         68         84         89
Williamsburg        213        200        218        207        206
York                293        292        280        313        316

TOTAL (State)      9444       9604       9613       9803       9787

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PERCENT OF NONWHITE LIVE BIRTHS OUT-OF-WEDLOCK (RESIDENCE DATA)       
-DOC-
       PERCENT OF NONWHITE LIVE BIRTHS OUT-OF-WEDLOCK (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                     1980       1981       1982       1983       1984      1985

Abbeville            50.4       61.2       55.6       67.1       57.8
Aiken                40.2       38.0       42.7       42.4       43.0
Allendale            47.3       53.4       44.4       49.4       45.9
Anderson             45.1       47.9       48.9       55.3       53.8
Bamberg              43.5       48.1       44.7       47.6       48.6
Barnwell             45.6       43.7       46.8       57.7       49.6
Beaufort             42.5       37.3       38.6       35.9       35.2
Berkeley             34.6       32.3       24.9       33.2       31.4
Calhoun              51.7       47.8       49.4       47.7       53.9
Charleston           46.4       45.8       48.0       51.1       51.2
Cherokee             55.9       59.6       55.7       63.8       64.9
Chester              49.0       45.9       47.4       53.4       53.1
Chesterfield         43.3       44.7       40.3       51.7       56.8
Clarendon            46.3       45.4       44.0       48.0       49.2
Colleton             42.5       43.1       44.7       44.1       47.6
Darlington           48.3       53.1       54.3       51.4       52.0
Dillon               57.6       55.6       51.7       56.1       60.4
Dorchester           30.1       28.2       33.3       36.0       34.9
Edgefield            37.0       45.8       52.0       43.8       52.5
Fairfield            42.4       44.3       47.7       44.6       46.0
Florence             44.1       45.1       48.4       50.2       48.8
Georgetown           43.2       41.2       44.9       43.0       44.2
Greenville           46.3       52.3       52.3       55.5       56.8
Greenwood            44.1       47.0       49.2       48.6       50.0
Hampton              39.2       37.2       35.8       45.4       43.2
Horry                45.7       46.6       49.1       49.5       47.9
Jasper               48.2       53.4       56.7       55.8       50.9
Kershaw              38.4       46.9       45.9       48.4       45.3
Lancaster            44.9       42.6       45.5       48.6       47.5
Laurens              51.9       54.6       58.4       62.5       60.1
Lee                  46.5       55.9       43.2       49.5       55.8
Lexington            39.2       42.1       42.8       40.5       43.6
McCormick            45.7       52.7       43.1       56.8       63.6
Marion               43.2       46.8       46.2       52.3       51.5
Marlboro             49.7       50.3       53.8       55.2       63.2
Newberry             48.4       50.0       55.2       47.0       50.7
Oconee               43.3       35.3       32.9       28.8       44.4
Orangeburg           46.3       48.5       48.5       50.5       50.1
Pickens              49.1       39.5       41.7       47.4       39.4
Richland             37.7       39.4       39.4       40.7       42.2
Saluda               46.1       37.4       50.7       48.5       54.5
Spartanburg          53.4       54.5       55.5       55.4       60.7
Sumter               37.0       39.3       42.2       43.0       42.7
Union                42.7       50.5       42.5       56.4       61.4
Williamsburg         38.9       38.8       41.7       43.1       45.2
York                 54.2       57.0       56.1       60.9       61.4

TOTAL (State)        44.2       45.3       46.0       48.3       49.0

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL NUMBER OF DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                     
-DOC-
                     TOTAL NUMBER OF DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville           206        208        210        196        204
Aiken               851        882        914        933        950
Allendale           116        117        116        113        115
Anderson           1141       1123       1102       1160       1133
Bamberg             165        159        132        147        195
Barnwell            170        178        182        188        191
Beaufort            407        443        447        498        427
Berkeley            397        487        495        528        563
Calhoun             108        102        108        106        120
Charleston         1962       1887       1939       2007       2049
Cherokee            362        372        365        345        334
Chester             292        326        285        291        284
Chesterfield        341        346        349        373        375
Clarendon           225        264        237        250        243
Colleton            339        317        310        325        407
Darlington          560        565        585        573        521
Dillon              260        276        294        273        319
Dorchester          386        374        420        418        399
Edgefield           154        149        157        157        162
Fairfield           211        202        203        221        226
Florence            922        960        880       1021       1012
Georgetown          318        380        362        336        355
Greenville         2265       2271       2191       2301       2345
Greenwood           515        533        523        490        531
Hampton             169        185        154        151        175
Horry               841        842        827        941        908
Jasper              141        145        141        111        151
Kershaw             335        365        314        300        313
Lancaster           436        423        401        420        435
Laurens             517        552        460        500        519
Lee                 169        135        143        151        155
Lexington           885        869        885        981        915
McCormick            72         66         52         59         81
Marion              315        325        303        352        328
Marlboro            300        321        310        308        311
Newberry            282        370        312        327        343
Oconee              414        464        435        464        414
Orangeburg          817        739        722        764        750
Pickens             501        510        548        585        559
Richland           2149       2158       2192       2250       2261
Saluda              161        147        164        152        170
Spartanburg        1801       1744       1720       1818       1905
Sumter              677        679        644        697        642
Union               288        286        330        332        316
Williamsburg        347        316        305        334        370
York                848        848        898        883        882

TOTAL (State)     25138      25410      25066      26130      26363

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL MALE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                      
-DOC-
                      TOTAL MALE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville           117        105        113        113        100
Aiken               456        504        483        519        491
Allendale            59         70         65         59         51
Anderson            661        602        616        631        646
Bamberg              89         83         80         79         94
Barnwell             90         96         97         94         95
Beaufort            237        240        253        264        234
Berkeley            249        295        282        331        304
Calhoun              66         53         58         53         78
Charleston         1061       1033       1037       1086       1114
Cherokee            215        206        200        190        186
Chester             163        185        159        158        167
Chesterfield        204        215        181        203        218
Clarendon           132        149        132        132        143
Colleton            190        176        154        176        218
Darlington          290        293        291        300        271
Dillon              142        141        155        166        178
Dorchester          244        207        229        233        224
Edgefield            85         73         95         81         95
Fairfield           120        110        118        121        130
Florence            520        518        478        550        538
Georgetown          194        236        219        190        207
Greenville         1229       1217       1180       1195       1257
Greenwood           296        277        291        272        263
Hampton             105        101         85         86         93
Horry               499        492        475        560        508
Jasper               69         74         78         60         87
Kershaw             190        194        172        175        164
Lancaster           259        233        229        246        240
Laurens             296        311        244        289        291
Lee                  95         81         87         88         90
Lexington           493        493        503        526        488
McCormick            49         46         26         32         42
Marion              167        182        176        194        182
Marlboro            161        175        173        179        172
Newberry            167        206        161        176        192
Oconee              219        278        247        265        204
Orangeburg          441        367        391        409        407
Pickens             283        268        309        320        309
Richland           1184       1190       1175       1142       1157
Saluda               93         76         88         89         82
Spartanburg        1003        952        964        982       1040
Sumter              390        352        356        367        356
Union               161        145        177        196        171
Williamsburg        176        174        170        171        190
York                483        463        481        482        490

TOTAL (State)     14092      13937     13,733      14230      14257

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL FEMALE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                   
-DOC-
                   TOTAL FEMALE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville            89        103         97         83        104
Aiken               395        378        431        414        459
Allendale            57         47         51         54         64
Anderson            480        521        486        529        487
Bamberg              76         76         52         68        101
Barnwell             80         82         85         94         96
Beaufort            170        203        194        234        193
Berkeley            148        192        213        197        259
Calhoun              42         49         50         53         42
Charleston          901        854        902        921        935
Cherokee            147        166        165        155        148
Chester             129        141        126        133        117
Chesterfield        137        131        168        170        157
Clarendon            93        115        105        118        100
Colleton            149        141        156        149        189
Darlington          270        272        294        273        250
Dillon              118        135        139        107        141
Dorchester          142        167        191        185        175
Edgefield            69         76         62         76         67
Fairfield            91         92         85        100         96
Florence            402        442        402        471        474
Georgetown          124        144        143        146        148
Greenville         1036       1054       1011       1106       1088
Greenwood           219        256        232        218        268
Hampton              64         84         69         65         82
Horry               342        350        352        381        400
Jasper               72         71         63         51         64
Kershaw             145        171        142        125        149
Lancaster           177        190        172        174        195
Laurens             221        241        216        211        228
Lee                  74         54         56         63         65
Lexington           392        376        382        455        427
McCormick            23         20         26         27         39
Marion              148        143        127        158        146
Marlboro            139        146        137        129        139
Newberry            115        164        151        151        151
Oconee              195        186        188        199        210
Orangeburg          376        372        331        355        343
Pickens             218        242        239        265        250
Richland            965        968       1017       1108       1104
Saluda               68         71         76         63         88
Spartanburg         798        792        756        836        865
Sumter              287        327        288        330        286
Union               127        141        153        136        145
Williamsburg        171        142        135        163        180
York                365        385        417        401        392

TOTAL (State)     11046      11473      11333      11900      12106

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL WHITE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                      
-DOC-
                      TOTAL WHITE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville           147        139        141        125        140
Aiken               620        639        648        686        676
Allendale            49         48         41         38         51
Anderson            927        940        918        942        919
Bamberg              74         79         70         76         93
Barnwell             94         97         95         98        104
Beaufort            241        268        249        302        268
Berkeley            250        311        322        335        346
Calhoun              46         40         39         49         49
Charleston         1179       1124       1149       1200       1217
Cherokee            286        279        281        284        276
Chester             185        220        191        195        184
Chesterfield        242        245        246        267        257
Clarendon            95        115        104         96        107
Colleton            196        180        168        182        224
Darlington          336        355        366        363        338
Dillon              166        163        184        163        202
Dorchester          253        247        243        284        264
Edgefield            83         74         91         80         81
Fairfield            95         91         96         93        113
Florence            516        561        490        580        578
Georgetown          179        199        186        184        194
Greenville         1837       1856       1791       1874       1899
Greenwood           371        378        355        340        358
Hampton              75         89         71         70         78
Horry               643        673        648        745        737
Jasper               53         70         62         36         60
Kershaw             206        226        201        185        213
Lancaster           316        330        291        308        324
Laurens             376        413        332        357        376
Lee                  67         56         58         71         62
Lexington           762        763        767        854        815
McCormick            27         30         19         30         39
Marion              140        156        133        149        150
Marlboro            160        175        173        187        176
Newberry            166        247        219        223        227
Oconee              359        419        379        409        365
Orangeburg          405        380        357        383        376
Pickens             443        464        487        530        508
Richland           1316       1337       1311       1407       1389
Saluda              113         98        122        115        112
Spartanburg        1410       1349       1353       1430       1501
Sumter              312        329        338        369        317
Union               201        201        240        226        236
Williamsburg        137        117        110        124        152
York                627        629        688        673        664

TOTAL (State)     16781      17199      16823      17717      17815

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL WHITE MALE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                   
-DOC-
                   TOTAL WHITE MALE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville            83         70         76         73         63
Aiken               327        364        343        389        360
Allendale            24         29         26         20         22
Anderson            547        502        514        511        523
Bamberg              38         41         43         39         48
Barnwell             51         52         59         48         54
Beaufort            141        154        140        166        157
Berkeley            158        187        182        203        181
Calhoun              31         20         21         26         31
Charleston          640        606        614        648        637
Cherokee            173        159        152        163        153
Chester             105        120        103        104        106
Chesterfield        146        155        125        146        151
Clarendon            58         65         51         55         58
Colleton            112         99         82        107        110
Darlington          179        185        179        184        169
Dillon               87         78         97        101        111
Dorchester          150        133        137        158        145
Edgefield            42         35         54         40         49
Fairfield            50         50         52         48         60
Florence            295        306        280        315        303
Georgetown          119        137        118        112        123
Greenville          983        995        974        976       1021
Greenwood           211        194        199        191        182
Hampton              46         48         42         40         43
Horry               383        387        372        451        418
Jasper               29         31         28         19         32
Kershaw             122        122        109        108        115
Lancaster           194        186        162        184        176
Laurens             218        235        174        215        205
Lee                  42         33         35         45         38
Lexington           428        434        435        462        440
McCormick            19         22          9         17         17
Marion               70         91         82         84         93
Marlboro             93         95         93        104        108
Newberry            101        143        111        116        135
Oconee              190        252        215        237        185
Orangeburg          208        181        196        204        207
Pickens             258        240        272        292        277
Richland            724        736        673        696        708
Saluda               64         50         64         67         57
Spartanburg         780        729        745        782        805
Sumter              178        166        193        193        171
Union               116        101        129        131        124
Williamsburg         76         69         66         60         78
York                355        343        370        372        388

TOTAL (State)      9444       9430       9196       9702       9637

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL WHITE FEMALE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                  
-DOC-
                  TOTAL WHITE FEMALE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville            64         69         65         52         77
Aiken               293        275        305        297        316
Allendale            25         19         15         18         29
Anderson            380        438        404        431        396
Bamberg              36         38         27         37         45
Barnwell             43         45         36         50         50
Beaufort            100        114        109        136        111
Berkeley             92        124        140        132        165
Calhoun              15         20         18         23         18
Charleston          539        518        535        552        580
Cherokee            113        120        129        121        123
Chester              80        100         88         91         78
Chesterfield         96         90        121        121        106
Clarendon            37         50         53         41         49
Colleton             84         81         86         75        114
Darlington          157        170        187        179        169
Dillon               79         85         87         62         91
Dorchester          103        114        106        126        119
Edgefield            41         39         37         40         32
Fairfield            45         41         44         45         53
Florence            221        255        210        265        275
Georgetown           60         62         68         72         71
Greenville          854        861        817        898        878
Greenwood           160        184        156        149        176
Hampton              29         41         29         30         35
Horry               260        286        276        294        319
Jasper               24         39         34         17         28
Kershaw              84        104         92         77         98
Lancaster           122        144        129        124        148
Laurens             158        178        158        142        171
Lee                  25         23         23         26         24
Lexington           334        329        332        392        375
McCormick             8          8         10         13         22
Marion               70         65         51         65         57
Marlboro             67         80         80         83         68
Newberry             65        104        108        107         92
Oconee              169        167        164        172        180
Orangeburg          197        199        161        179        169
Pickens             185        224        215        238        231
Richland            592        601        638        711        681
Saluda               49         48         58         48         55
Spartanburg         630        620        608        648        696
Sumter              134        163        145        176        146
Union                85        100        111         95        112
Williamsburg         61         48         44         64         74
York                272        286        318        301        276

TOTAL (State)      7337       7769       7627       8015       8178

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL NONWHITE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                   
-DOC-
                   TOTAL NONWHITE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville            59         69         69         71         64
Aiken               231        243        266        247        274
Allendale            67         69         75         75         64
Anderson            214        183        184        218        214
Bamberg              91         80         62         71        102
Barnwell             76         81         87         90         87
Beaufort            166        175        198        196        159
Berkeley            147        176        173        193        217
Calhoun              62         62         69         57         71
Charleston          783        763        790        807        832
Cherokee             76         93         84         61         58
Chester             107        106         94         96        100
Chesterfield         99        101        103        106        118
Clarendon           130        149        133        154        136
Colleton            143        137        142        143        183
Darlington          224        210        219        210        183
Dillon               94        113        110        110        117
Dorchester          133        127        177        134        135
Edgefield            71         75         66         77         81
Fairfield           116        111        107        128        113
Florence            406        399        390        441        434
Georgetown          139        181        176        152        161
Greenville          428        415        400        427        446
Greenwood           144        155        168        150        173
Hampton              94         96         83         81         97
Horry               198        169        179        196        171
Jasper               88         75         79         75         91
Kershaw             129        139        113        115        100
Lancaster           120         93        110        112        111
Laurens             141        139        128        143        143
Lee                 102         79         85         80         93
Lexington           123        106        118        127        100
McCormick            45         36         33         29         42
Marion              175        169        170        203        178
Marlboro            140        146        137        121        135
Newberry            116        123         93        104        116
Oconee               55         45         56         55         49
Orangeburg          412        359        365        381        374
Pickens              58         46         61         55         51
Richland            833        821        881        843        872
Saluda               48         49         42         37         58
Spartanburg         391        395        367        388        404
Sumter              365        350        306        328        325
Union                87         85         90        106         80
Williamsburg        210        199        195        210        218
York                221        219        210        210        218

TOTAL (State)      8357       8211       8243       8413       8548

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL NONWHITE MALE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                  
-DOC-
                  TOTAL NONWHITE MALE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville            34         35         37         40         37
Aiken               129        140        140        130        131
Allendale            35         41         39         39         29
Anderson            114        100        102        120        123
Bamberg              51         42         37         40         46
Barnwell             39         44         38         46         41
Beaufort             96         86        113         98         77
Berkeley             91        108        100        128        123
Calhoun              35         33         37         27         47
Charleston          421        427        423        438        477
Cherokee             42         47         48         27         33
Chester              58         65         56         54         61
Chesterfield         58         60         56         57         67
Clarendon            74         84         81         77         85
Colleton             78         77         72         69        108
Darlington          111        108        112        116        102
Dillon               55         63         58         65         67
Dorchester           94         74         92         75         79
Edgefield            43         38         41         41         46
Fairfield            70         60         66         73         70
Florence            225        212        198        235        235
Georgetown           75         99        101         78         84
Greenville          246        222        206        219        236
Greenwood            85         83         92         81         81
Hampton              59         53         43         46         50
Horry               116        105        103        109         90
Jasper               40         43         50         41         55
Kershaw              68         72         63         67         49
Lancaster            65         47         67         62         64
Laurens              78         76         70         74         86
Lee                  53         48         52         43         52
Lexington            65         59         68         64         48
McCormick            30         24         17         15         25
Marion               97         91         94        110         89
Marlboro             68         80         80         75         64
Newberry             66         63         50         60         57
Oconee               29         26         32         28         19
Orangeburg          233        186        195        205        200
Pickens              25         28         37         28         32
Richland            460        454        502        446        449
Saluda               29         26         24         22         25
Spartanburg         223        223        219        200        235
Sumter              212        186        163        174        185
Union                45         44         48         65         47
Williamsburg        100        105        104        111        112
York                128        120        111        110        102

TOTAL (State)      4648       4507       4537       4528       4620

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL NONWHITE FEMALE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)              
-DOC-
              TOTAL NONWHITE FEMALE DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville            25         34         32         31         27
Aiken               102        103        126        117        143
Allendale            32         28         36         36         35
Anderson            100         83         82         98         91
Bamberg              40         38         25         31         56
Barnwell             37         37         49         44         46
Beaufort             70         89         85         98         82
Berkeley             56         68         73         65         94
Calhoun              27         29         32         30         24
Charleston          362        336        367        369        355
Cherokee             34         46         36         34         25
Chester              49         41         38         42         39
Chesterfield         41         41         47         49         51
Clarendon            56         65         52         77         51
Colleton             65         60         70         74         75
Darlington          113        102        107         94         81
Dillon               39         50         52         45         50
Dorchester           39         53         85         59         56
Edgefield            28         37         25         36         35
Fairfield            46         51         41         55         43
Florence            181        187        192        206        199
Georgetown           64         82         75         74         77
Greenville          182        193        194        208        210
Greenwood            59         72         76         69         92
Hampton              35         43         40         35         47
Horry                82         64         76         87         81
Jasper               48         32         29         34         36
Kershaw              61         67         50         48         51
Lancaster            55         46         43         50         47
Laurens              63         63         58         69         57
Lee                  49         31         33         37         41
Lexington            58         47         50         63         52
McCormick            15         12         16         14         17
Marion               78         78         76         93         89
Marlboro             72         66         57         46         71
Newberry             50         60         43         44         59
Oconee               26         19         24         27         30
Orangeburg          179        173        170        176        174
Pickens              33         18         24         27         19
Richland            373        367        379        397        423
Saluda               19         23         18         15         33
Spartanburg         168        172        148        188        169
Sumter              153        164        143        154        140
Union                42         41         42         41         33
Williamsburg        110         94         91         99        106
York                 93         99         99        100        116

TOTAL (State)      3709       3704       3706       3885       3928

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL INFANT DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                   
-DOC-
                   TOTAL INFANT DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville             1          8          4          4          3
Aiken                22         25         21         14         26
Allendale             9          6          5          7          4
Anderson             21         37         31         35         21
Bamberg               8          5          3          3          7
Barnwell              6          8          6          7          2
Beaufort             20         13         27         24         24
Berkeley             25         39         33         22         22
Calhoun               1          6          3          1          3
Charleston           83         65         80         65         79
Cherokee             10         12         12          2          5
Chester               9          5         16          8         10
Chesterfield         16         13         13         13         15
Clarendon            11          8          8         15          5
Colleton             14          2          8         12          8
Darlington           20         20         19         19          5
Dillon               10         13         10         12          3
Dorchester           14         23         21         16         19
Edgefield             3          5         10          2          5
Fairfield            12          6          2          3         11
Florence             35         26         31         29         40
Georgetown           11         24         11         12         13
Greenville           52         71         55         53         67
Greenwood            13         20         13         15          8
Hampton              11          8          5          8          8
Horry                26         30         29         26         20
Jasper                9          4         10          3          3
Kershaw               9          6          6          6          8
Lancaster            14         16         10          8          8
Laurens              16         18         11         12         10
Lee                  12          8          9          8          8
Lexington            17         22         20         31         23
McCormick             2          7          2          1          4
Marion               12         16          7         14         17
Marlboro             10         19         13         11          6
Newberry              7          9          6         14          2
Oconee                7          7         10         11          9
Orangeburg           25         19         24         19         16
Pickens              12         14         16         16         12
Richland             70         56         62         55         66
Saluda                3          6          6          3          2
Spartanburg          42         33         46         55         45
Sumter               31         31         31         28         32
Union                10          7         16          6          4
Williamsburg         13         19         18          6         11
York                 25         21         33         26         24

TOTAL (State)       809        836        832        760        743

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL INFANT MORTALITY RATE (RESIDENCE DATA)                  
-DOC-
                  TOTAL INFANT MORTALITY RATE (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                     1980       1981       1982       1983       1984      1985

Abbeville             3.1       22.5       12.1       11.7        9.6
Aiken                13.0       13.7       12.1        8.2       14.9
Allendale            39.8       26.5       25.3       33.7       20.3
Anderson             10.8       19.2       17.0       19.7       11.8
Bamberg              27.1       17.4        9.6        9.9       24.7
Barnwell             17.4       22.5       18.9       21.9        6.6
Beaufort             15.2        9.3       18.8       16.8       17.2
Berkeley             12.6       19.3       16.2       10.2       10.2
Calhoun               4.7       31.9       13.0        5.8       16.8
Charleston           16.6       12.8       15.0       11.7       14.4
Cherokee             15.8       20.6       19.6        3.5        9.2
Chester              15.1        8.9       29.5       16.0       19.3
Chesterfield         25.0       21.2       23.4       24.7       28.4
Clarendon            21.6       17.1       16.0       33.6       11.2
Colleton             27.5        3.7       14.7       23.0       14.7
Darlington           21.4       20.9       20.7       22.2        5.9
Dillon               16.7       22.5       18.3       21.9        5.5
Dorchester           13.3       21.0       18.7       14.0       15.2
Edgefield            10.0       15.8       34.4        6.8       17.4
Fairfield            35.3       19.0        6.3        9.3       34.1
Florence             17.6       13.7       16.7       16.6       22.2
Georgetown           13.8       31.3       14.5       15.7       17.9
Greenville           11.8       16.2       12.5       12.4       15.9
Greenwood            14.9       24.0       15.2       18.3        9.9
Hampton              32.0       21.4       14.2       21.3       26.4
Horry                13.7       17.1       15.6       14.0       10.5
Jasper               29.2       13.0       35.6        9.7       11.2
Kershaw              14.7        9.6       10.3       10.2       12.6
Lancaster            16.8       20.1       12.4       11.0       11.0
Laurens              20.3       23.5       14.5       16.2       13.2
Lee                  37.9       23.7       30.9       26.1       25.2
Lexington             8.5       10.6        9.7       14.4       10.8
McCormick            12.7       49.0       15.0        8.3       33.9
Marion               18.7       25.6       11.3       25.3       30.7
Marlboro             16.9       34.2       25.1       22.1       12.6
Newberry             15.4       18.1       13.1       30.8        4.5
Oconee                9.4       10.2       14.1       16.7       13.3
Orangeburg           16.6       12.2       16.1       13.4       12.0
Pickens              11.5       13.7       16.2       17.9       12.3
Richland             17.4       13.3       14.6       13.2       16.2
Saluda               12.1       23.3       21.5       11.4        7.9
Spartanburg          13.4       10.8       15.2       19.0       15.3
Sumter               17.5       17.7       17.7       16.0       18.0
Union                20.7       15.8       38.4       15.0       11.3
Williamsburg         16.9       28.2       24.9        9.4       17.9
York                 14.5       12.8       20.2       15.8       14.0

TOTAL (State)        15.6       16.2       16.1       15.0       14.7

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.  Rate per 1000 live births.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHITE INFANT DEATHS BY NUMBER (RESIDENCE DATA)                  
-DOC-
                  WHITE INFANT DEATHS BY NUMBER (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville             -          -          2          2          2
Aiken                11         13          9          8         12
Allendale             1          3          -          2          1
Anderson             19         26         18         23          9
Bamberg               1          3          -          -          2
Barnwell              2          4          2          2          -
Beaufort              9          7         12         15         13
Berkeley             14         16         22         10         13
Calhoun               -          2          1          -          1
Charleston           34         24         24         27         26
Cherokee              6          4          3          2          4
Chester               5          1          6          1          5
Chesterfield          1          6          4          9         10
Clarendon             3          1          2          3          -
Colleton              3          -          1          3          4
Darlington            7          4          6          7          2
Dillon                2          7          4          4          -
Dorchester            5         10          8          7         15
Edgefield             -          2          4          1          2
Fairfield             2          -          -          -          4
Florence             14          9         11          8         14
Georgetown            3          6          1          4          2
Greenville           31         47         37         31         46
Greenwood             4         12          6          6          2
Hampton               2          3          -          -          3
Horry                 8         18         18         17         14
Jasper                3          2          4          3          1
Kershaw               5          3          4          4          5
Lancaster             8          8          7          6          4
Laurens               8         15          4          5          6
Lee                   1          2          2          2          -
Lexington            14         14         13         18         19
McCormick             -          1          -          1          -
Marion                3          6          2          2          2
Marlboro              2          7          5          6          3
Newberry              3          1          3          2          -
Oconee                5          5          7          7          8
Orangeburg            7          8          9          -          5
Pickens              10         11         16         13         11
Richland             19         17         18         22         14
Saluda                3          1          4          1          1
Spartanburg          21         20         29         33         28
Sumter                7         11         11         10         10
Union                 8          4          6          3          1
Williamsburg          3          1          1          1          -
York                 13         14         21         12         15

TOTAL (State)       330        379        367        343        339

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHITE INFANT MORTALITY BY RATE (RESIDENCE DATA)                
-DOC-
                WHITE INFANT MORTALITY BY RATE (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                     1980       1981       1982       1983       1984      1985

Abbeville             0          0         10.1       10.4       10.9
Aiken                10.1       10.6        7.9        7.1       10.0
Allendale            22.7       57.7        0         52.6       20.4
Anderson             12.5       17.8       13.0       16.8        6.6
Bamberg              10.5       29.7        0          0         18.5
Barnwell             12.3       23.1       13.9       13.9        0
Beaufort             11.5        8.4       14.0       17.0       15.4
Berkeley             10.2       11.9       15.9        6.6        8.6
Calhoun               0         38.5       13.0        0         13.0
Charleston           12.5        8.6        8.0        8.7        8.6
Cherokee             14.5       10.0        7.4        5.0       10.7
Chester              17.1        3.9       23.3        4.2       19.6
Chesterfield          2.8       16.6       12.5       28.6       33.3
Clarendon            18.9        7.8       12.0       21.4        0
Colleton             15.2        0          4.1       12.9       16.1
Darlington           15.2        8.7       12.4       16.4        4.5
Dillon                7.9       28.7       16.3       16.9        0
Dorchester            6.9       13.0       10.2        8.7       16.5
Edgefield             0         14.4       34.5        7.6       15.9
Fairfield            19.6        0          0          0         41.2
Florence             13.8        9.3       11.9        9.6       15.7
Georgetown            9.1       18.5        3.1       10.8        6.3
Greenville            9.4       13.9       11.1        9.5       14.2
Greenwood             8.0       24.8       12.2       13.3        4.1
Hampton              19.2       28.8        0          0         30.9
Horry                 6.4       14.5       13.8       13.3       10.3
Jasper               34.9       16.8       36.4       32.6       10.6
Kershaw              13.7        8.2       11.9       11.0       12.5
Lancaster            15.1       15.4       13.4       13.5        8.5
Laurens              16.3       29.7        8.6       11.0       12.8
Lee                  13.2       24.4       25.6       23.8        0
Lexington             8.2        8.2        7.5        9.9       10.5
McCormick             0         32.3        0         25.6        0
Marion               13.6       29.1        9.4       10.5       11.0
Marlboro              8.4       33.3       23.4       26.4       15.8
Newberry             13.0        3.6       12.2        8.4        0
Oconee                7.6        8.4       11.0       11.9       13.7
Orangeburg           14.7       16.0       19.1        0         11.9
Pickens              10.7       11.8       18.0       15.9       12.4
Richland              9.8        8.7        9.2       10.7        7.1
Saluda               25.2        7.9       30.5        7.5        7.8
Spartanburg           9.3        9.0       13.2       15.6       13.3
Sumter                8.1       13.1       12.2       11.5       10.6
Union                27.6       16.4       23.3       11.9        4.8
Williamsburg         13.6        6.3        5.0        6.3        0
York                 11.0       12.4       18.5       10.6       12.6

TOTAL (State)        10.8       12.4       12.0       11.3       11.1

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.  Rate 1000 per live births.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOTAL NONWHITE INFANT DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)                  
-DOC-
                  TOTAL NONWHITE INFANT DEATHS (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                   1980       1981       1982       1983       1984       1985

Abbeville             1          8          2          2          1
Aiken                11         12         12          6         14
Allendale             8          3          5          5          3
Anderson              2         11         13         12         12
Bamberg               7          2          3          3          5
Barnwell              4          4          4          5          2
Beaufort             11          6         15          9         11
Berkeley             11         23         11         12          9
Calhoun               1          4          2          1          2
Charleston           49         41         56         38         53
Cherokee              4          8          9          -          1
Chester               4          4         10          7          5
Chesterfield         15          7          9          4          5
Clarendon             8          7          6         12          5
Colleton             11          2          7          9          4
Darlington           13         16         13         12          3
Dillon                8          6          6          8          3
Dorchester            9         13         13          9          4
Edgefield             3          3          6          1          3
Fairfield            10          6          2          3          7
Florence             21         17         20         21         26
Georgetown            8         18         10          8         11
Greenville           21         24         18         22         21
Greenwood             9          8          7          9          6
Hampton               9          5          5          8          5
Horry                18         12         11          9          6
Jasper                6          2          6          -          2
Kershaw               4          3          2          2          3
Lancaster             6          8          3          2          4
Laurens               8          3          7          7          4
Lee                  11          6          7          6          8
Lexington             3          8          7         13          4
McCormick             2          6          2          -          4
Marion                9         10          5         12         15
Marlboro              8         12          8          5          3
Newberry              4          8          3         12          2
Oconee                2          2          3          4          1
Orangeburg           18         11         15         19         11
Pickens               2          3          -          3          1
Richland             51         39         44         33         52
Saluda                -          5          2          2          1
Spartanburg          21         13         17         22         17
Sumter               24         20         20         18         22
Union                 2          3         10          3          3
Williamsburg         10         18         17          5         11
York                 12          7         12         14          9

TOTAL (State)       479        457        465        417        404

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NONWHITE INFANT MORTALITY RATES (RESIDENCE DATA)               
-DOC-
               NONWHITE INFANT MORTALITY RATES (RESIDENCE DATA)
    Emily Wiggins, Extension Family Life And Human Development Specialist

                     1980       1981       1982       1983       1984      1985

Abbeville             7.5       52.6       15.0       13.4        7.8
Aiken                18.5       19.7       19.8       10.2       25.7
Allendale            44.0       17.2       35.2       29.4       20.3
Anderson              4.7       23.3       29.7       29.3       28.8
Bamberg              35.0       10.7       14.6       14.3       28.6
Barnwell             22.0       21.9       23.1       28.6       14.8
Beaufort             20.4       10.5       25.8       16.4       20.0
Berkeley             17.8       34.1       16.8       19.1       13.9
Calhoun               6.7       29.4       13.0        9.2       19.6
Charleston           21.6       17.9       24.0       15.5       21.7
Cherokee             18.2       43.7       44.3        0          5.8
Chester              13.2       13.1       35.1       26.5       19.1
Chesterfield         53.2       27.7       38.1       19.0       21.8
Clarendon            22.9       20.6       18.1       39.2       15.6
Colleton             35.1        6.4       23.0       31.3       13.5
Darlington           27.4       32.2       29.9       27.9        7.4
Dillon               23.1       18.0       19.9       25.6        9.1
Dorchester           27.4       39.9       38.3       26.8       11.5
Edgefield            15.6       16.9       34.3        6.2       18.5
Fairfield            42.0       27.1        9.1       12.9       31.0
Florence             21.5       18.4       21.4       23.1       28.7
Georgetown           17.0       40.7       22.8       20.4       26.7
Greenville           19.2       23.7       17.1       21.7       21.7
Greenwood            24.5       22.8       19.2       24.5       18.2
Hampton              37.5       18.6       20.6       31.9       24.3
Horry                27.8       23.2       19.6       15.7       11.2
Jasper               27.0       10.6       35.1        0         11.6
Kershaw              16.0       11.5        8.2        9.0       12.9
Lancaster            19.8       28.9       10.4        7.1       15.6
Laurens              26.9       11.5       23.9       24.6       13.7
Lee                  45.6       23.4       32.9       27.0       33.3
Lexington            10.0       22.5       20.6       37.9       12.3
McCormick            17.2       53.6       19.6        0         51.9
Marion               21.4       23.9       12.3       33.1       40.4
Marlboro             22.7       34.7       26.4       18.5       10.4
Newberry             17.8       36.7       14.2       55.8        9.5
Oconee               22.2       23.5       39.5       54.8       11.1
Orangeburg           17.5       10.4       14.7       20.5       12.0
Pickens              18.9       34.9        0         38.5       10.6
Richland             24.5       17.4       19.3       15.5       24.8
Saluda                0         38.2       13.5       15.4        8.1
Spartanburg          24.5       15.4       20.5       28.5       20.5
Sumter               26.5       21.8       23.3       20.5       26.5
Union                10.4       15.0       62.5       20.1       20.7
Williamsburg         18.2       34.9       32.5       10.4       24.1
York                 22.2       13.7       24.0       27.2       17.5

TOTAL (State)        22.4       21.6       22.2       20.6       20.2

Source: Dept. of Health & Environmental Control. (1980, 1981, 1982, 1983,
1984, 1985). South Carolina vital & morbidity statistics, Columbia, South
Carolina.  All data are based on the calendar year.  Rate 1000 per live births.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MANUFACTURED HOUSING INFORMATION                      
-DOC-
                      MANUFACTURED HOUSING INFORMATION
          Linda L. Gardner, Extension Residential Housing Specialist

S. C. Manufactured Housing Board
Program Administrator
300 Gervais Street
Columbia, SC  29201
Phone:  758-5378

S.C.'s state administrative agency, part of the administrative structure of
the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) Manufactured
Housing Construction and Safety Standards Program.  The Board handles consumer
complaints, makes HUD-code enforcement-related determinations, conducts
hearing regarding HUD-code homes.  The Board is made up of consumers,
retailers, manufacturers, insurance and finance experts, and home fire safety
specialists.

A consumer with a complaint about a manufactured/mobile home should try to
resolve it by contacting the retailer or service company involved.  If unable
to resolve the complaint that way, contact the manufacturer of the home.  If
still unable to resolve the complaint, contact this state agency and ask for
information on complaint resolution.
Manufactured Housing Institute of S.C., Inc.
1103 "B" Avenue
P.O. Box 5885
West Columbia, SC  29171
Phone:  794-5570
President:  Mr. Thomas W. Lloyd

The Institute is a trade association of retailers, park owners/developers,
service/supplier members, and manufacturers.  It is a source of current
information on all aspects of manufactured/mobile housing, including
legislation, zoning, community development, and other related issues.

The Institute directory lists businesses that provide products or services to
the S.C. industry.  Call the Institute for names and addresses of member
companies.




-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RESIDENTIAL HOME BUILDERS INFORMATION                   
-DOC-
                   RESIDENTIAL HOME BUILDERS INFORMATION
          Linda L. Gardner, Extension Residential Housing Specialist

S. C. Residential Builders Commission
2221 Devine St., Suite 312
Columbia, SC  29205
Phone:  758-7091

This is the licensing agency for contractors who build family residences in
S.C.  Commission special investigators can be called upon to help resolve
consumer-builder disputes regarding home construction problems if the builder
is a licensed builder.  In unresolved disputes between a non-licensed builder
and consumer, the investigator may serve as an expert witness in a civil
action.

The investigators are trained in building codes and can tell by examining a
home whether various aspects of the construction meet building code
requirements.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PATTERNS OF U.S. HOUSEHOLD EXPENDITURES -- 1984 CONSUMER EXPENDITURE SURVEY  
-DOC-
  PATTERNS OF U.S. HOUSEHOLD EXPENDITURES -- 1984 CONSUMER EXPENDITURE SURVEY
      Glennis M. Couchman, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

                        Lower Income       Moderate Income      Higher Income
                      ($10,800 average)   ($19,300 average)   ($30,400 average)

Food                        17.6%               16.2%               12.6%
Housing (1)                 32.1                30.4                24.2
Transportation              19.9                20.7                17.4
Clothing                     4.8                 5.1                 4.2
Personal Care                1.0                 1.0                 0.7
Medical Care                 6.1                 4.6                 3.0
Recreation                   3.8                 4.3                 4.2
Other Consumption (2)        5.1                 5.1                 3.4
Other Items (3)              7.9                10.3                12.9
Taxes                        1.7                 2.3                17.4

(1) Housing costs reflects rent or mortgage, property taxes and insurance,
    water and refuse disposal, heating, gas, electricity, maintenance and
    repair.
(2) Reading, tobacco, alcohol, and miscellaneous.
(3) Gifts, contributions, life insurance, pensions, social security.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ECONOMIC UPDATE - DECEMBER 1987                        
-DOC-
                        ECONOMIC UPDATE - DECEMBER 1987
      Glennis M. Couchman, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

     Economic Update provides information of economic trends -- statewide,
nationally, and internationally -- that directly or indirectly impact South
Carolina families.  The synopsis of each topic will, in effect, keep you
abreast of the latest demographics, facts, and issues in the economic
environment of the United States.


SELECTED QUOTATION FOR DECEMBER:

Rich Miller, CFP, Denver, Colorado

     "People do not plan to fail; they fail to plan."


                           CONSUMER PRICES INCREASE

     The Consumer Price Index (CPI) for the three months ending in October rose
at a seasonally adjusted annual rate of 4.2%.  Price increase by category:

                           CPI August-October 1987

                                               % Increase
                      Transportation              10.0
                      Medical Care                 5.4
                      Entertainment                4.7
                      Food, Beverages              4.2
                      Housing                      3.6
                      Apparel                      3.2

Source:  Bureau of Labor Statistics, USA TODAY, November 23, 1987.


                          SLIGHTLY HIGHER CPI IN 1988

     Expect slightly faster gains in the CPI in the future months.  Increase
from December 1986 through December 1987 is expected to be 4.7%, up from 1.1%
last year.  For budgeting purposes, figure on a 5% increase in 1988.




    Increase in Consumer Price Index-U from December to December, 1965-1988

     1965    1.9%    1971     3.4%    1977     6.8%    1983    3.8%
     1966    3.4%    1972     3.4%    1978     9.0%    1984    4.0%
     1967    3.0%    1973     8.8%    1979    13.3%    1985    3.8%
     1968    4.7%    1974    12.2%    1980    12.4%    1986    1.1%
     1969    6.1%    1975     7.0%    1981     8.9%    1987    4.7% (est.)
     1970    5.5%    1976     4.8%    1982     3.9%    1988    5.0% (est.)

Source:  THE KIPLINGER WASHINGTON LETTER, November 13, 1987.

                        IRS RULING FOR THE HANDICAPPED

     The costs of modifying a home to suit the handicapped are deductible as
medical expenses.  Internal Revenue Service has issued this ruling at direction
of the Congress.  Costs that are deductible include:  widening doorways and
hallways, wheelchair ramps, lowering kitchen cabinets, adding handrails, and
grading yards for better access to the house.  Also, installation of elevators
if the cost exceeds added value of the house is deductible.

Source:  THE KIPLINGER WASHINGTON LETTER, November 13, 1987.

                                  RURAL POOR

     According to an article in the May 24, 1987, Washington Post, rural areas
contain one-fourth of the U.S. population, they have 67 percent of the sub-
standard housing, 32 percent of the nation's poverty, and 9.2 percent of the
unemployment.  Real per capita income in farm counties fell from 91 percent of
the metropolitan level in 1973 to 76 percent in 1984.


                          HOUSING AFFORDABILITY INDEX

     In 1986, homes in the U.S. were more affordable than they had been since
1978.  The housing affordability index was 105.7 compared to 111.9 in 1978. 
This means that a family earning a median annual income in 1986 of $29,200 had
110.5% of the income required to meet minimum qualification standards for a
mortgage of 80% of the median-priced home ($80,300).

     The primary reason for the index improvement was lower interest rates. 
The interest rate to compute the index was 10.25% in 1986.  When the interest
rates soared to all point high of 16% during 1981, the index went to an all
time low of 63.9.

Housing Affordability Index

        Median-
         priced   Average   Monthly  Payment  Median
        existing  mortgage   P & I    as %    family  Qualifying  Affordability
          home      rate*   payment  income   income   income**     index***
1981     66,400     15.12     677     36.3    22,388    32,485        68.9
1982     67,800     15.38     702     35.9    23,433    33,713        69.5
1983     70,300     12.85     616     30.1    24,580    29,546        83.2
1984     72,400     12.49     618     28.2    26,433    29,650        89.1
1985     75,500     11.74     609     26.2    27,735    29,243        94.8
1986     80,300     10.25     576     23.7    29,200    27,631       105.7
1987
Jan <p>  82,400      9.62     560     22.9    29,308    26,883       109.0

<p> Preliminary
*   Effective rate on loans closed on existing homes--Federal Home Loan Bank
    Board.
**  Based on the current lending requirements of the Federal National Mortgage
    Association using a 20% down payment.
*** Index equals 100 when median family income equals qualifying income.
Source:  Consumers Research, Vol. 70, No. 4, p. 33, April 1987.
                       MONTHLY EARNINGS OF SOUTH CAROLINA
                      MANUFACTURING WORKERS, OCTOBER 1987

                          South Carolina                       U.S.
                    October 1987      Year Ago      October 1987      Year Ago
Average Hourly
   Earnings            $  8.14         $  7.97         $  9.94         $  9.72

Average Weekly
   Earnings            $340.25         $329.16         $408.53         $395.60

Source:  SC EMPLOYMENT TRENDS, October 1987.










                             SOUTH CAROLINA DATA:
           SOCIAL INSURANCE RECIPIENT RANKINGS AMONG STATES FOR 1985

                                 Unit of      South     Rank in      U.S.
                                 Measure    Carolina     U.S.      Average

   Social Security recipients
   per 1,000 population           Rate        144         36         151

   AFDC and SSI as
   percent of population         Percent        6.2       14           6.2

   Food stamp recipients
   per 1,000 population           Rate        105.5        6          80.2

Source:  SOUTH CAROLINA STATE DATA CENTER NEWSLETTER, Spring 1987.






                             HOW MUCH DO YOU OWE?

     The federal debt is now well over $2.3 trillion...$2,300,000,000,000. 
That comes to $9,474 for each man, woman, and child in the U.S.  The debt is
growing rapidly.  Last year the per person federal debt was $8,524; five years
ago it was $4,898.  On the average it has been rising about $600 per year per
person.

     To whom do we owe the debt?  We should know our creditors.

     Federal Reserve -- 9%.  The FR buys and sells government securities to
regulate the growth of money and repays interest earned to U.S. Treasury. 
Government accounts such as Social Security and federal pension funds make up
19% of your debt share.

     Foreigners own almost 12% of the total.  This means each of us owe them
$1,107.  This is fast-growing private investments and reserves at central
banks.  In the 1960s, foreigners held less than 3% of the debt.  Currently, 20%
of the feds new borrowing has been from foreigners.  U.S. investors are owed
the balance of the debt...about 60% of the total.  This includes banks; 
individuals; partnerships and trusts; state and local governments, savings and
loans, corporations and private pension funds.
     So what?  How does the debt effect you?  There are less dollars for
economic growth.  Interest rates are higher than if government borrowed less. 
Financing the federal debt can bring on inflation because the Federal Reserve
feels pressure to make borrowing easier by pumping more money into the economy
and increasing credit.

Source:  THE KIPLINGER WASHINGTON LETTER, August 28, 1987.















                    FASTEST AND SLOWEST GROWING INDUSTRIES

     Among the fastest and slowest growing U.S. industries in regard to
available jobs are these:

      Industry              Employment Change, 1986-2000        Annual % Change
Business Services                    +3,340,000                      +3.9%
Health Services                      +3,223,000                      +2.9
Hotels                               +  570,000                      +2.5
Finance, Insurance,
  Real Estate                        +1,620,000                      +1.7
Manufacturing                        -  834,000                      -0.3
Apparel & Textiles                   -  182,000                      -1.3

Source:  RESEARCH RECOMMENDATIONS, National Institute of Business Management,
         July 3, 1987.
                            





Did You Know...

     ...that your risk of an Internal Revenue Service audit depends on where
you live?  South Carolina residents face one of the lowest risks of being
audited--0.9%--of all individual taxpayers.  Other nearby states with a similar
low rate are North Carolina and Kentucky.  The IRS audits 1.1% of all
individual taxpayers.  The highest risk states are Nevada, Arizona, California,
Hawaii, Oklahoma, and Texas.  Source:  BOTTOM LINE, December 15, 1987.

     ...the top baby names in the South are Jessica and Robert?

     ...Alaska is the only state that levies neither state personal income tax
nor a state sales tax?


Demographic Tidbits

     Seven out of ten U.S. families with children under age 18 own their homes;
90% of these homes are single-family detached units.  Nearly 50% were built
since 1970.


     More than 1 out of 4 homeowners with children have a house with eight or
more rooms, compared to only 5% of renters with children.

     U.S. homeowners--with or without children--spend the same amount on home
furnishings and appliances (about $1,200 per year).  Households with children
spend $500 a year on household operations, such as cleaning services.  Home-
owners without children spend only $250 a year on such services.

Source:  FAMILY ECONOMICS REVIEW, July 1987.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HOUSING FOR THE HANDICAPPED AND ELDERLY                   
-DOC-
                   HOUSING FOR THE HANDICAPPED AND ELDERLY
         Linda L. Gardner, Extension Residential Housing Specialist

Independent Living Skills Center
S.C. Department of Vocational Rehabilitation
1410 Boston Avenue
West Columbia, S.C.  29169
Phone:  743-4313

A center to train Vocational Rehabilitation clients to live independently
following training.  Facilities include a manufactured home (double-wide) with
kitchen features appropriate for wheel chair users and people with other
limitations, as well as a 2 bedroom, site built fully accessible home.

Many features in both units are excellent ideas to make housing easy to live
in for people of all ages, in all stages of the life cycle, for people with or
without physical limitations.





S.C. Board for Barrier-Free Design
300 Gervais Street
Columbia, SC  29201
Phone:  737-2120

S.C.'s body is responsible for assisting builders to make construction
accessible to all individuals, regardless of physical ability or physical
handicap.  The Board's 1980 illustrated manual includes State Rules and
Regulations and the Design Standard as approved by the Legislature.  The
manual has drawings and specifications to be used in designing and building
barrier free homes and public facilities.










American Association of Retired Persons
Consumer Affairs Program Department
1909 K Street, N.W.
Washington, DC  20049
Phone:  (202) 872-4700

A non-profit, nonpartisan organization with over 22 million members, AARP is
an organization of over-50 aged Americans.  They provide legislative
representation at both federal and state levels, educational and community
service programs, and direct membership benefits.  One of their publications
is "The Do-Able, Renewable Home," which describes physical abilities of the
aging body, concepts of housing accessibility and adaptability, and excellent
examples of how to adapt a home so an aging occupant can remain in the home. 
Examples include written descriptions as well as graphics.  The AARP is a
source for numerous printed items as well as visuals for group use.






American National Standards Institute, Inc.
1430 Broadway
New York, NY  10018

A national organization that provides a process for interested organizations
to develop standards for various purposes.  Their publication, "American
National Standard for Buildings and Facilities--Providing Accessibility and
Usability for Physically Handicapped People," ANSI A117.1-1986 is a
compilation of written explanations and diagrams (with measurements)
recommended for buildings and facilities easily accessible by people in
wheelchairs or with other limiting conditions.

The ANSI A117.1-1986 standard is a voluntary standard which can be adopted by
city, county, or state bodies as part of a building code.  South Carolina has
based its "Illustrated Manual of Barrier Free Design" on the ANSI standard.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ESTIMATED COST OF RAISING A CHILD -- SOUTHERN REGION, JUNE 1987        
-DOC-
       ESTIMATED COST OF RAISING A CHILD -- SOUTHERN REGION, JUNE 1987 
      Glennis M. Couchman, Extension Family Resource Management Specialist

                   Age of Child           Total Yearly Cost
                     (years)            (moderate cost level)

                                          Urban       Rural
                      Under 1            $5,117      $5,151
                         1                5,257       5,291
                        2-3               4,931       5,054
                        4-5               5,172       5,355
                         6                5,513       5,774
                        7-9               5,681       5,942
                       10-11              5,905       6,194
                         12               6,285       6,561
                       13-15              6,454       6,730
                       16-17              6,919       7,308

For breakdown of costs by type of expenditure (food, clothing, etc.) contact
your local county Extension office.

Source:  Family Economics Review, No. 2, 1987
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STATUS OF S.C. BILLS RELATED TO CHILDREN                   
-DOC-
                   STATUS OF S.C. BILLS RELATED TO CHILDREN
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

June l, l987

                                   ADOPTION

H.2ll3 - S.l44 - A Concurrent Resolution approving the Transition Plan for
merging the Children's Bureau into the Adoption Unit of the Department of
Social Services.
Author: H.2ll3 - House 3M  Committee
        S.l44  - Senate Medical Affairs Committee
Status: H.2ll3 - Adopted 2/25/87
        S.l44  - Tabled

S.34l - Revises procedures relating to the issuance and filing of amended birth
certificates in adoptions including procedures for foreign born 
children.
Authors:  Senators Giese, Bryan and Thomas


Status :  Enacted, Act #87, Effective 7/1/87

H.2685 - S.625 - Establishes an adoption exchange within the Department of
Social Services to enhance recruitment methods and facilitate placement of
children awaiting adoption.
Authors: H.2685 - Reps. Evatt, Beasley and Hayes
         S. 625 - Senators Hayes, N. Smith & Moore
Status : H.2685 - Referred to House 3M Committee
         S. 625 - Referred to House 3M Committee

H.2598 - Allows a retroactive tax deduction for persons who have adopted a
special needs child to be taken for tax year l985.  Due to an oversight this
income tax deduction was deleted from the Code in l985 and was reinstated in
l986.
Authors:  Reps. Derrick and Evatt
Status :  Referred to Senate Finance Committee

H.309l - S.748 - Provides that adoptions in which consent was taken prior to
the effective date of the SC Adoption Act do not have to comply with the
requirements of that Act but rather can proceed under the former adoption laws.

Authors:  H.309l - Reps. Beasley and Wilkins
          S. 748 - Senator Bryan
Status :  H.309l - Tabled in House Judiciary 
          S. 748 - Enacted, Act 125, Effective 6/3/87

H.3203 - S.787 - Establishes the requirements and procedures for certified
investigators for the purpose of obtaining consents and conducting homestudies
in adoptions.
Authors:  H.3203 - House 3M Committee
          S. 787 - Senate Medical Affairs Committee
Status:   H.3203 - Up for Second Reading in House
          S. 787 - Up for Third Reading in House

                            CHILD ABUSE AND NEGLECT

H.2487 - S.422 - Provides for the Foster Care Review Board to review cases of
children residing in public foster care for a period of more than four
consecutive months and less than every six months.
Authors:  H.2487 - Reps. Evatt, Beasley and Hayes
          S. 422 - Senators Nell Smith and Hayes

Status :  H.2487 - Tabled
          S. 422 - Enacted, Act #39, Effective 
                   4/l3/87

H.2395 - Provides for hearsay testimony and revised standards to determine the
competency of child witnesses in the prosecution of child sexual abuse cases.
Authors:  Representatives Evatt, Beasley, R. W. Hayes and Huff
Status :  Referred to House Judiciary Committee


H.2878 - Provides for expedited proceedings and the following techniques for
the introduction of evidence in the prosecution of child sexual abuse cases: 
closed-circuit television and videotaped testimony.
Authors:  House Judiciary Committee Bill
Status :  Referred to Senate Judiciary Committee

H.2072 - Provides more protection to children who are sexually exploited for
the purpose of pornography by the following: creating additional offenses and
penalties; increasing certain penalties from misdemeanor to felonies; providing
for forfeiture of property used in connection with such pornography; and 

requiring film developers to report those requesting development of child
pornography.
Authors:  Fair, Beasley, Hayes, et al.
Status:   Enacted, Act #168, Effective 10/1/87

S.60 - Revises penalties for dissemination of obscene material to minors.
Authors:  Senators J. Verne Smith, Nell W. Smith, Theodore, Pope and Long
Status:   Referred to Senate Judiciary Committee

H.206l - Provides for courts to use videotape testimony of victims and
witnesses under l6 years of age in abuse cases.
Author:  Rep. Aydlette
Status:  Tabled

H.2962 - S.685 - Amends Child Protection Act by deleting language which allows
a person to delegate the responsibility to report suspected abuse to the
Department of Social Services.
Authors:  H.2962 - Reps. Evatt, Beasley and Hayes
          S. 685 - Senators N. Smith, Hayes & Moore
Status :  H.2962 - Referred to Senate Judiciary 
          S. 685 - Referred to Senate Judiciary 
H.2790 - Provides that proof of one's abuse of a child is admissible regarding
that person's alleged abuse of another child.
Authors:  Reps. Moss, J. Bradley, T. Rogers, O. Phillips and Petty
Status :  Referred to House Judiciary Committee

H.2999 - Provides that DSS is responsible for attorneys fees when it takes a
child into protective custody without parents consent and the parents regain
custody.
Author:  Rep. Kohn
Status:  Referred to House 3M Committee

H.3000 - Requires DSS to obtain a court order prior to taking a child into
protective custody.
Author:  Rep. Kohn
Status:  Referred to House 3M Committee

                   CHILD SUPPORT ENFORCEMENT AND VISITATION

H.2463 - S.498 - Provides for only prospective modification of child support
orders in the Family Court as mandated by Federal Child Support 

Amendments to the Social Security Act.
Authors:  H.2463 - Reps. Evatt, Beasley and Hayes
          S. 498 - Senators Nell Smith and Hayes
Status :  H.2463 - Enacted, Act #198, Effective 7/1/87
          S. 498 - Referred to Senate Judiciary 

H.2046 - Provides for ex parte contempt procedures if non-custodial parent is
denied visitation, requires family court to provide forms for use in initiating
an action, and allows "pro se" representation.
Authors:  Reps. M.O. Alexander, Altman, Blackwell, Holt, Klapman, Koon, L.     
          Martin, Mattos, Rice, White, Williams, McLellan, T.C. Alexander, Kay, 
          Shelton, Fair and P. Bradley
Status :  Referred to House Judiciary Committee

H.2009 - Limits amount of child support that can be ordered to 30% of pay and
provides for credit of in kind payments to be monitored by DSS.
Author:  Rep. Ferguson
Status:  Tabled in House Judiciary Committee

H.2963 - S.686 - Requires payment of federal fiscal incentives for child 
support collection to clerks of court for the exclusive use of collection
activities.
Authors:  H.2963 - Reps. Evatt, Beasley and Hayes
          S. 686 - Senators N. Smith, Hayes & Moore
Status :  H.2963 - Referred to Senate Judiciary 
          S. 686 - Referred to Senate Judiciary 

                                   DAY CARE

H.2l64 - Allows employers a tax credit when they provide fully-paid, on-site
day care for employees.
Author:  Rep. Aydlette
Status:  Referred to House Ways & Means Committee

H.20l4 - Removes venue from Circuit Court and places it with Family Court in
regard to injunctions by DSS against child day care facilities.
Authors:  Reps. Wilkins & P. Bradley
Status :  Referred to Senate Medical Affairs 




                                   EDUCATION

H.2494 - Provides that each employee or applicant of a school district, as a
condition of employment, must submit to a criminal background investigation and
provides for regulations of same.
Author:  Rep. McAbee
Status:  Referred to House Education & Public Works Committee

                                 FAMILY COURT

H.2603 - Requires that the Supreme Court, by court rule, provide for the use of
mediation in the Family Court in cases involving divorce and separation.
Author:  Rep. Koon
Status:  Tabled

H.2945 - S.654 - Provides statutory authority for the South Carolina Guardian
ad Litem Program and provides immunity from liability for volunteer guardians
under the program.
Authors:  H.2945 - Reps. Evatt, Beasley, Hayes, 
                   McAbee and Mattos

          S. 654 - Senators Lindsay, Moore, Hayes 
                   and N. Smith
Status :  H.2945 - Referred to House 3M Committee
          S. 654 - Referred to Senate Finance 

                                    HEALTH

H.2555 - Prohibits public elementary and secondary schools from distributing
any contraceptive device or medication.
Author:  House Education and Public Works Committee
Status:  Enacted, Act #167, Effective 6/8/87

H.2095 - Prohibits distribution of contraceptives in public schools and state
supported colleges and universities.
Authors:  Reps. Fair and Beasley
Status :  Referred to Committee on Education & Public Works

H.2369 - Prohibits schools from offering sex education until legislation is
enacted regulating this subject.
Authors:  Reps. Felder, Fair and Beasley
Status :  Referred to Committee on Education & Public Works
H.2370 - Prohibits DHEC from participating in sex education instruction in the
public schools until legislation is enacted regulating this subject.
Authors:  Reps. Felder, Fair, Beasley and Townsend
Status :  Referred to Committee on Education & Public Works

S.2l4 - Prohibits any proposed regulations regarding sex education from being
introduced in the Senate or House unless it has been submitted to all school
districts.
Author:  Senator Powell
Status:  Referred to Senate Education

H.2709 - Requires each school district to attain certain ratios between
registered school nurses and students.
Author:  Rep. Harvin
Status:  Referred to House 3M Committee

H.27l0 - Provides consent requirements when performing an abortion on a minor
including requirements for self-consent.
Authors:  Reps. Hayes, Fair, Felder, McCain, Haskins and Toal


Status :  House Contested Calendar

H.2822 - Mandates that sex education be taught in public schools as a part of a
comprehensive health education program and provides for the manner and
conditions under which it will be accomplished.  Parental permission is
required for students to participate.
Author:  Rep. Fair
Status:  Referred to House Education & Public Works Committee

H.2734 - S.546 - Establishes a comprehensive health education program for
instruction of good health attitudes and practices which would include
reproductive health education starting in grade six.  Family life education and
pregnancy prevention would be taught at the discretion of the local school
board.
Authors:  H.2734 - Reps. Keyserling, et al.
          S. 546 - Senators N. Smith, et al.
Status :  H.2734 - House Education & Public Works 
          S. 546 - Up for Second Reading in Senate

H.26l5 - Extensive revision of SC abortion laws to provide, among other things,
criteria for a minor to obtain an abortion.
Authors:  Reps. Fair and Hayes
Status :  Referred to House 3M Committee

                               JUVENILE JUSTICE

H.2329 - Requires information regarding juveniles convicted of certain crimes
to be reported to SLED & deems such information admissible for sentencing
purposes upon petition to family court.
Authors:  Reps. Huff, Sheheen, Toal and Hayes
Status :  Referred to House Judiciary Committee

H.2580 - Provides for notification of parents if a minor violates any law, even
if not taken into custody.
Authors:  Reps. Corning, E.B. McLeod, McCain & Mappus
Status :  Referred to House 3M Committee

H.2939 - S.650 - Allows a first-time nonviolent juvenile offender to petition
the Family Court for an order authorizing the destruction of his nonviolent
juvenile criminal record.
Authors:  H.2939 - Reps. Evatt, et al.
          S. 650 - Senator Nell Smith, et al.
Status :  H.2939 - Tabled in House Judiciary 
          S. 650 - Enacted, Act #108, Effective 5/26/87


                                 MENTAL HEALTH

H.2l38 - S.259 - Provides procedures specific to children in need of mental
health treatment so that appropriate treatment can be rendered on a voluntary,
emergency, or involuntary, in-patient or out-patient basis.
Authors:  H.2l38 - Reps. P. Harris, J. Harris & Helmly
          S.259  - Senators T. Smith, Hayes & Bryan
Status:   H.2l38 - Referred to House 3M Committee
          S.259  - Referred to Senate Medical Affairs

                                 MISCELLANEOUS

H.2l87 - Increases marriage license fee by $5.00 which is to be directed to DSS
for use in Battered Spouse and Family Violence Programs.
Authors:  Reps. Keyserling, Evatt, T. Rogers, et al.
Status :  House Contested Calendar

H.27l6 - Creates a criminal offense for giving any person under 2l any
alcoholic liquors.
Author:  Rep. Evatt
Status:  Referred to House Judiciary Committee

S.l84 - Gives the court-appointed Guardian ad Litem responsibility for
monitoring medication to be given to an abused or neglected child during the
pendency of the case in the Family Court.
Author:  Senator McConnell
Status:  Referred to Senate Judiciary Committee

H.2650 - S.5l9 - Provides procedures for registration of twenty-four hour
residential facilities for children.
Authors:  H.2650 - Reps. Evatt, et al.
          S. 5l9 - Senators N. Smith, Moore, Garrison and Lindsay
Status :  H.2650 - House Contested Calendar/Unfavorable Minority Report from
                   House 3M Committee
          S. 5l9 - Referred to Senate Judiciary 

H.2868 - S.678 - Expands the Children's Trust Fund "check-off" to all state
income tax forms, including corporate forms.

Authors:  H.2868 - Reps. Evatt, Beasley and Hayes
          S. 678 - Senators N. Smith, Hayes & Moore
Status :  H.2868 - Enacted, Act #137, Effective 6/3/87
          S. 678 - Referred to Senate Finance 

FOR DAILY INFORMATION ON THE STATUS OF STATE LEGISLATION, YOU MAY CALL SC
LEGISLATIVE INFORMATION SYSTEMS AT l-800-922-l539.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STATUS OF SC LEGISLATURE CONCERNING ADULTS                
-DOC-
                STATUS OF SC LEGISLATURE CONCERNING ADULTS
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

                    Legislation Pending Consideration 1987


Long Term Care Insurance Act  - H.2673, S.603

    Status:  House Labor, Commerce and Industry Subcommittee - J. Bradley,
             Subcomm. Chmn. - adjourned debate.  Wants to study during the
             interim - establish standards --- is key area to study.



Repeal Of Mandatory Retirement - S.379

    Status:  Passed Senate and received 3rd reading in House but was
             reconsidered  and committed to House Ways and Means.  Will resume
             action January 1988.


State Board of Denistry- S.315 

    Status:  Up for 3rd reading when they reconvene in January.

    Allows dental hygienists to extend services to institutions.



                      Legislation Enacted 1987


Nursing Home Licensing Act Of 1987 - S.251

    Status:  Passed.  Enrolled for ratification June 25

    Provides that DHEC assess the number of Medicaid eligible days and allows
    the nursing facility providers to contract for number of Medicaid eligible
    days, therefore freeing days to other providers.

    Directs all applications for admission to nursing homes must contain a
    notice signed by applicant informing the applicant of Medicaid eligibility
    requirements and recommend that persons be assessed prior to admission. 
    This assessment will provide information about the level of care and
    available community services.  Section 5, in which this information is
    contained, will take effect July 1, 1988.



Aging Programs By Agencies - S.252

    Status:  Passed. Effective date 6/10/87

    Requires Commission on Aging with cooperation of Long Term Care Council and
    Dept. of Insurance to develop programs and educate citizens concerning:

    -availability of long term care services
    -lifetime risk of spending time in a nursing home
    -coverage available for long term care through Medicare, 
     Medicaid, private policies with limitations of coverage.
    -availability of home equity conversion alternatives


This program will be part of the Pre-Retirement Education Program of S.C.
Retirement System.

    -Also study costs and benefits of establishing statewide, computer-based
     volunteer services credit program to report July 1, 1988.

    -Study life care retirement communities.  Report January 1, 1988.
     Recommendations that can be accomplished through regulations must be
     implemented as soon as possible.  Legislative action must be included
     in the report.

Long Term Care Council - S.253

    Status:  Enrolled for ratification June 25

    Creates Long Term Care Council.  Membership includes the governor, human
    service agency heads, governor's appointees:  consumer, insurance,
    provider.  The Chairmen of the Joint Committee on Aging and Health Care 



    Planning and Oversite Committee will serve as ex-officio members.  The
    Council must report to General Assembly before January of each year with
    recommendations.



Elderly Home-Meals Exempt From Sales Tax-- H.2607

    Status:  Act. 161  Effective date 6/10/87

    Exempts from sales tax foodstuff provided at home to elderly or disabled
    persons to or by nonprofit organizations that receive charitable
    contributions for the purpose of providing meals.



Emergency Admission to Mental Health Facility-- H.2102

    Status:  Act No. 158  Effective date 6/8/87

    Requires complete physical examination results for person 55 or older 
    applying for emergency admission to a mental health facility.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GENERAL INFORMATION                              
-DOC-
                              GENERAL INFORMATION
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

As a parent, you know more about your child than any other person.  By
carefully looking into available care and matching up services with your
child's individual needs, you will be able to select the best situation for
your child.  You will find it well worth the extra time to choose carefully,
because if your child is receiving happy and secure care, you and the rest of
the family will find your lives enriched as well.

There are four different kinds of care you might choose:

    1) A child care center
    2) A group day care home
    3) A family day care home
    4) An individual sitter in your home or sitter's home

As you make out a list of child care possibilities, keep these four thoughts in
mind.  You will need to find care that is affordable.  Cost and quality do not
always go hand in hand.  The most expensive is not necessarily the best.  On 
the other hand, it may be better to spend a few more dollars to get superior 
care.  Remember to consider hidden costs, like extra gasoline to get to a
center clear across town.

Accessibility is the second factor to keep in mind.  If you have to leave home
an hour early and fight traffic to get to the center, your emotional energy as
well as your gasoline may be in short supply.

A third factor is reliability.  Will the care be available when you need it? 
Will you be able to trust the sitter or staff with your child's well-being?

The fourth and last factor is consistency.  It is important for your child's
sense of security to have at least one consistent caregiver, someone that you
and your child can count on.  Will this be a place where your child will
receive consistent care with a minimum of problems and a maximum of
opportunities for growth and development?

When you have narrowed your list, be sure to visit, using the checklists which
follow.  Ask questions, find out how the center, home, or sitter feels to you,
and get references wherever possible.


Sources:

Sally Kees, State Extension Specialist, Nevada
Child Care Connection, 701 Shipley St., Wilmington, Delaware  19801
South Carolina Department of Social Services Licensing Department

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TYPES OF DAY CARE IN SOUTH CAROLINA                      
-DOC-
                      TYPES OF DAY CARE IN SOUTH CAROLINA
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

In South Carolina the Department of Social Services regulates three types of
child day care facilities:  Child Day Care Center, including church operated
(CDCC); Group Day Care Home (GDCH); and Family Day Care Home (FDCH).

The Child Day Care Center is the largest of the three types of facilities and
must have 13 or more children.  Frequently parents utilize centers rather than
Group or Family Day Care Homes because they feel that their children will
experience more planned learning activities and have opportunity for
interaction with a greater number of children and staff.  The center must be
licensed/approved by SC Department of Social Services staff.  The
licensing/approval process includes inspections by the licensing staff of the
SC Department of Social Services, local health department, and the appropriate
fire authority.  Centers must comply with more stringent regulations than the
Group Day Care Homes or Family Day Care Home. 

A Group Day Care Home generally is located in someone's home.  It provides care
for at least 7 children and no more than 12 children. Like the FDCH, the GDCH
offers an individualized environment for each child.  Depending on the ages and
number of children actually enrolled, there may be one to two caregivers
provided.  When enrollment reaches 9 or when 4 or more of the children are
under two years of age, there must be an additional care giver.  GDCH's must be
licensed/approved by the SC Department of Social Services and comply with
specific regulations for GDCH's.  The licensing/approval process includes
inspections by staff of the Department of Social Services, local health
department, and the appropriate fire authority.

A Family Day Care Home must be located in the home of the provider.  With no
more than six children enrolled, the FDCH may provide more individual
interaction.  Frequently these children form close bonds with the provider
since this is the only adult with whom they deal during the day.  The small,
familiar home environment usually offers comfort to the children.  A good
Family Day Care Home will offer a variety of activities and experiences. 
*Family Day Care Homes must be registered with the SC Department of Social
Services.  This registration process requires only that once a year the
provider:  complete and sign the required number of application forms; read the
suggested standards for family day care homes; furnish parents of each child
enrolled in the facilitiy with copies of the standards; secure a signed
statement from each parent verifying that they have received the suggested
standards; and send required copies of completed and signed application, three 
signed reference statements, (three references for original applicants only)
and all signed statements from parents to the county Department of Social
Services.  Since the registration process for Family Day Care Homes is
relatively simple, The Department of Social Services depends greatly on the
consumer to inform our department of any concerns.  Involved parents can
actually improve the quality of the services being offered.

* Family Day Care Homes receiving public monies are required to be
licensed/approved.

DEFINITIONS

Child Day Care Facility means any facility which provides care, supervision or
guidance for any minor child who is not related by blood, marriage or adoption
to the owner or operator of such a facility whether or not the facility is
operated for profit and whether or not the facility makes a charge for services
offered by it.

Child Day Care Center means any facility which regularly receives thirteen or
more children for day care.

Group Day Care Home means any facility generally within a dwelling unit, which 
regularly provides child day care for at least seven but not more than twelve
children, including the operator's own or related children, under the age of 12
unattended by a parent or a legal guardian.

Family Day Care Home means an occupied residence in which child day care is
regularly provided for no more than six children, unattended by a parent or
legal guardian, including those children living in the home and children under
12 received for day care who are related to the resident caregiver.

Provider means the operator of the day care facility.


Source:  South Carolina Department of Social Services Licensing Department
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TYPES OF DAY CARE IN SOUTH CAROLINA                      
-DOC-
                      TYPES OF DAY CARE IN SOUTH CAROLINA
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

In South Carolina the Department of Social Services regulates three types of
child day care facilities:  Child Day Care Center, including church operated
(CDCC); Group Day Care Home (GDCH); and Family Day Care Home (FDCH).

The Child Day Care Center is the largest of the three types of facilities and
must have 13 or more children.  Frequently parents utilize centers rather than
Group or Family Day Care Homes because they feel that their children will
experience more planned learning activities and have opportunity for
interaction with a greater number of children and staff.  The center must be
licensed/approved by SC Department of Social Services staff.  The
licensing/approval process includes inspections by the licensing staff of the
SC Department of Social Services, local health department, and the appropriate
fire authority.  Centers must comply with more stringent regulations than the
Group Day Care Homes or Family Day Care Home. 

A Group Day Care Home generally is located in someone's home.  It provides care
for at least 7 children and no more than 12 children. Like the FDCH, the GDCH
offers an individualized environment for each child.  Depending on the ages and
number of children actually enrolled, there may be one to two caregivers
provided.  When enrollment reaches 9 or when 4 or more of the children are
under two years of age, there must be an additional care giver.  GDCH's must be
licensed/approved by the SC Department of Social Services and comply with
specific regulations for GDCH's.  The licensing/approval process includes
inspections by staff of the Department of Social Services, local health
department, and the appropriate fire authority.

A Family Day Care Home must be located in the home of the provider.  With no
more than six children enrolled, the FDCH may provide more individual
interaction.  Frequently these children form close bonds with the provider
since this is the only adult with whom they deal during the day.  The small,
familiar home environment usually offers comfort to the children.  A good
Family Day Care Home will offer a variety of activities and experiences. 
*Family Day Care Homes must be registered with the SC Department of Social
Services.  This registration process requires only that once a year the
provider:  complete and sign the required number of application forms; read the
suggested standards for family day care homes; furnish parents of each child
enrolled in the facilitiy with copies of the standards; secure a signed
statement from each parent verifying that they have received the suggested
standards; and send required copies of completed and signed application, three 
signed reference statements, (three references for original applicants only)
and all signed statements from parents to the county Department of Social
Services.  Since the registration process for Family Day Care Homes is
relatively simple, The Department of Social Services depends greatly on the
consumer to inform our department of any concerns.  Involved parents can
actually improve the quality of the services being offered.

* Family Day Care Homes receiving public monies are required to be
licensed/approved.

DEFINITIONS

Child Day Care Facility means any facility which provides care, supervision or
guidance for any minor child who is not related by blood, marriage or adoption
to the owner or operator of such a facility whether or not the facility is
operated for profit and whether or not the facility makes a charge for services
offered by it.

Child Day Care Center means any facility which regularly receives thirteen or
more children for day care.

Group Day Care Home means any facility generally within a dwelling unit, which 
regularly provides child day care for at least seven but not more than twelve
children, including the operator's own or related children, under the age of 12
unattended by a parent or a legal guardian.

Family Day Care Home means an occupied residence in which child day care is
regularly provided for no more than six children, unattended by a parent or
legal guardian, including those children living in the home and children under
12 received for day care who are related to the resident caregiver.

Provider means the operator of the day care facility.


Source:  South Carolina Department of Social Services Licensing Department
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
REGULATIONS FOR DAY CARE FACILITIES IN SOUTH CAROLINA             
-DOC-
             REGULATIONS FOR DAY CARE FACILITIES IN SOUTH CAROLINA
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

The current statute, Act 184 (s 20-7-2700 et seq, S.C. Code, 1976, as amended),
indicates which child day care facilities are exempt from regulation and which
facilities are subject to licensing, approval, or registration by the
Department of Social Services.

FACILITIES EXEMPT UNDER ACT 184 - Any private or public educational facility
which operates solely for educational purposes in grades one or above; five-
year-old kindergarten programs operated by public school systems; kindergartens
or nursery schools or other daytime programs operating no more than four hours
a day; drop-in programs which operate more than four hours a day where the same
children are cared for less than four hours a day and not on a regular basis as
defined in Act 184; summer resident or day camps for children; Bible schools
normally conducted during vacation periods; facilities for the mentally
retarded; facilities for the mentally ill.




TYPES OF REGULATORY PERMITS ISSUED

    Licensing.  Private child day care centers and group day care homes
    which operate more than four hours a day and more than two days a week.

    Approval.  Public child day care centers and group day care homes which
    operate more than four hours a day and more than two days a week.

    Registration.  Church-sponsored child day care centers and group day
    care homes which operate more than four hours a day and more than two
    days a week; Private-for-profit family day care homes operating more
    than four hours a day and more than two days a week which care for
    children from at least two unrelated families.  NOTE:  Some church
    operated facilities and some family day care homes opt for licensing.

REMEMBER!  FACILITIES SUBJECT TO REGULATION CANNOT BEGIN TO OPERATE UNTIL THEY
ARE EITHER LICENSED, APPROVED, OR REGISTERED BY THE DEPARTMENT OF SOCIAL
SERVICES.


Source:  South Carolina Department of Social Services Licensing Department
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VISITING DAY CARE FACILITIES                          
-DOC-
                         VISITING DAY CARE FACILITIES 
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist 
 
It is a good idea to visit several family day care homes, group day care homes,
and/or child day care centers. 
Before your visit, read and be familiar with the items on the checklist.  Phone
the homes to see if you are welcome to visit and set up an appointment, 
allowing 20-30 minutes per home.  Tell the caregiver how old your children are 
and what hours you will need care.  If the caregiver doesn't have an opening 
which meets your needs, she/he may anticipate one in the future or may be able 
to refer you to another caregiver. 
 
Sometimes it's more convenient to visit without a child.  Should you take your 
child along, however, note if and how the caregiver greets the child and 
whether the child finds the home attractive and friendly. 
 
Remember, if you are visiting a family care home, that the caregiver will 
probably be alone with the children.  You might say, "I know that you are busy 
with the children.  I would appreciate just being able to sit quietly and watch
how the children are playing together.  Then if you have some time, I might 

have a few questions to ask."  You wouldn't want your child in a home where the
caregiver would ignore the children and devote full attention to visitors and 
other adults for long periods. Go back to the previous menu by pressing f3 to
see a checklist to use when visiting child care centers, group day care homes,
and family day care homes.


Source:

Sally Kees, State Extension Specialist, Nevada
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PREPARING THE CHILD                              
-DOC-
                              PREPARING THE CHILD
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

Once you have selected care, begin to prepare your child for this new
experience.  You might say, "Soon we will be leaving right after breakfast.  I
will go to my new job, and you get to go to your new school where there will be
lots of fun things to do.  You will even get to eat lunch there.  Then I will
pick you up before dinner."

If possible, go with your child to visit and meet the caregiver.  Start leaving
your child an hour or so before you have to leave your child all day.  A
skilled staff will help your child make this transition.

Take an extra pair of underwear and play pants in a bag marked with your
child's name.  Also be sure to leave your work number and an emergency number
of a friend or relative to call in case you can't be reached.

Don't panic at the first problem.  Talk over your concerns with the caregiver
and don't be surprised if it takes your child several weeks to get used to the
new situation.

If your child is happy and looks forward to going to the place of child care,
you know you've made a good choice.  You can also check by asking the staff how
your child is doing, what she/he likes the most or doesn't like, and whether
there is a new friend to invite over to play on the weekend.

You might also tell the staff about experiences your child is having at home so
that the caregiver understands your child as an individual.  If, for any
reason, the situation is not working out for you or your child after a few
weeks, let the caregiver know about the problems.  Then look elsewhere for an
alternative.  If the problems don't go away, and you do decide to move your
child, be sure to let the caregiver know and explain the reasons for the move.




Sources:  Sally Kees, State Extension Specialist, Nevada

          Child Care Connection, 701 Shipley St., Wilmington, Delaware, 19801
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DAY CARE - A PARENT'S CHECKLIST                        
-DOC-
                        DAY CARE - A PARENT'S CHECKLIST
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

HOW TO EVALUATE THE QUALITY OF A CHILD CARE PROGRAM

There are three areas to look at when you visit a child care program:

    1. The Relationship Between the Provider and the Children
    2. The Program
    3. Physical Aspects, Health/Nutrition, and Safety

Continue by pressing the return key to discover specific items to check under
each of the three areas.  Place a check mark by the items present in each place
of day care you visit.  You may wish to make several copies of "Day Care - A
Parent's Checklist" to have one for each place you visit.





                                                              (screen 1 of 19) 
RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN THE PROVIDER AND THE CHILDREN

It is essential that you feel happy and confident about the provider you
choose.  You may want to consider:

    * Does the caregiver appear to be warm, friendly, calm, and patient, and  
      have a sense of humor?
    * Does the caregiver listen to what children have to say?
    * Does the caregiver have child-rearing attitudes that are similar to your 
      own?
    * Are difficult children handled in a manner you approve?
    * Is each child treated as a special person?
    * Does the caregiver understand what children can do and want to do at
      different stages of growth?
    * Are children allowed to make choices?
    * Does the caregiver talk to the children and encourage them to express
      themselves through words and creative activities?
    * Does the caregiver hold and touch the children in a caring manner?
    * Are children encouraged to resolve conflicts between themselves in an
      acceptable manner?
                                                               (screen 2 of 19)
    * Do children seem to feel good about themselves?
    * Does the caregiver use a positive reinforcement approach when
      disciplining and guiding children?
    * Are children encouraged to learn to get along with and to respect other
      people?
    * Is enough attention given to all the children?
    * Does the caregiver have previous experience or training in working with
      children?
    * Is the caregiver someone with whom you can develop a relaxed, sharing
      relationship?
    * Does the caregiver like the children?
    * Do the children like the caregiver?
    * How many different caregivers will be with your child during the course
      of the day?  Are there different shifts of caregivers?
    * How frequent is staff turnover?  Can you expect the same person to care
      for your child for the next year?
    * Does the caregiver encourage children to do some things for themselves,
      patiently giving time, help, and praise so that the child can learn to
      master the skill, such as getting a drink, washing hands, putting away a 
      toy?
                                                             (screen 3 of 19)
    * Does the caregiver hold infants when feeding them rather than propping up
      their bottles?
    * Does the caregiver talk to infants, cuddle, and play with them during the
      day.  Are infants not left alone for long periods?
    * Is the caregiver a person you would like your child to copy or imitate? 
      In other words, children are apt to "do as the caregiver does, more than 
      what she/he says."
    * Can you see the caregiver praising the children?  For example, saying,
      "You did a good job hanging up your coat."
    * Can you see the caregiver communicating effectively with the children,
      explaining in clear steps what she/he wants the children to do, answering
      children's questions patiently, frequently bending or kneeling down to
      the child's level when talking?
    * Do the children appear happy, confortable, and relaxed - laughing,
      smiling, involved in play?
    * Do the children enjoy one another - smile at each other, hold hands, hug,
      help each other more than they fight or argue?
    * Does the caregiver use the children's first names or nicknames when
      talking to or about them?  Does she/he avoid referring to the children by
      unpleasant names, such as "smarty," or "brat," etc.?
                                                               (screen 4 of 19)
    * If a child does not like a certain food being served, do you agree with
      the caregiver's methods of handling the situation?


















                                                               (screen 5 of 19)
THE PROGRAM

Find out what type of program is followed.  Is there a daily schedule?  Does
the daily schedule include experiences you consider important?  Some aspects of
the center/home you may want to look at include:

    * Do the activities encourage the children to think things through?
    * Is there time for children to work as a group?
    * Is there time to play alone and also to interact with friends?
    * Is there a posted, written schedule that is flexible?
    * Does the schedule show active and quiet times througout the day?
    * Do the children experience success frequently?
    * Is there enough staff to give individual attention?
    * Is the cost within your budget?
    * Will the caregiver or center allow you to visit at any time?
    * Are the values of the program compatible with your values?
    * Are parents involved in the program?
    * What is the educational program and philosophy?
    * Does the facility close for vacations or holidays?
    * What is included in the fee? (For example lunch, snacks, diapers.)
                                                               (screen 6 of 19)
    * Are attractive and well-written story and picture books available for the
      children?
    * Does the caregiver encourage listening and talking through planned
      activities like story-telling, word games, doll playing?
    * Does the home or center have materials for quiet play, such as puzzles,
      and active play, such as riding toys?
    * Can the children get at least some materials for themselves, and are they
      encouraged to take care of the materials and put them away when finished?
    * Are there enough toys and materials so that each child can play without
      having to wait more than a few minutes?
    * Does the caregiver encourage both boys and girls to play with all the
      materials - such as riding toys, dress-up clothes, dolls, cars and
      trucks?  Do caregivers avoid giving children the idea that a certain
      activity is only for boys or only for girls?
    * Can children sometimes use creative materials, such as crayons, big blank
      pieces of paper rather than coloring books where they have to try to
      color in the lines?
    * Can three or more of the following toys be available for the children's
      use:  large and small riding toys, pull toys, poundings toys, beads for 
      stringing, puzzles, small and large blocks, nested toys, small building 
      toys like Tinkertoys?                                    (screen 7 of 19)
    * May children watch only appropriate television programs and are they not
      forced or encouraged to sit in front of the TV for long periods?
    * Does the caregiver plan at least one activity for the children each day
      which your child would enjoy?
















                                                               (screen 8 of 19)
PHYSICAL ASPECTS, HEALTH, NUTRITION, AND SAFETY

Look around the center/home to make sure it is a safe, healthy environment and
that appropriate physical space exists.  Be sure to look for and ask about:

    * Is there an up-to-date license posted?
    * Is the facility attractive, clean, and well-lit with safety in mind?
    * Are there enough equipment and materials?
    * Can children reach materials and supplies?
    * Is the equipment safe, suitable, in good repair, and appropriate for the
      age of your child?
    * Is there a place for a child to be alone?
    * Is there an opportunity for children to play on the floor?
    * Is there enough space indoors and outdoors so all the children can move
      freely and safely?
    * Is there a place for a child's own belongings?
    * Is there a proper sleeping place for nap time?
    * Are there first aid supplies and fire extinguishers?
    * Are there emergency numbers and a telephone conveniently located?
    * Is the facility free from safety hazards?
                                                              (screen 9 of 19)
    * Are the bathroom and diapering areas clean?
    * Is the toilet easy for the child to get to?
    * What happens if a child becomes ill or hurt while in care?
    * Are parents notified about communicable diseases to which their children
      have been exposed?
    * Is the menu posted?
    * Is the kitchen clean and safe?
    * Are the meals nutritious?
    * Are the number of meals and snacks served appropriate for the time spent
      in the program?
    * Does the caregiver give children supervision and security, while
      understanding their growing need for independence?
    * Does the caregiver listen to children's problems and experiences?
    * Does the care giver help children follow through on projects, homework,
      and suggest interesting things to do?
    * Are children's ideas, values, and opinions respected?
    * Is there time for children to be with their own friends, practice skills,
      and experience a variety of activities?
    * Is there a time and place to be alone?
    * Is there an outdoor play area?
                                                              (screen 10 of 19)
    * Does the outdoor play area have both a hard surface for riding toys and a
      soft surface like sand or grass for playing?
    * Do adults refrain from smoking in the same room with the children?
    * Do you NOT see any children with soiled diapers or training pants?
    * Is there at least one adult in the center who has had first-aid training?
    * Is the outdoor play area fenced?  If only one caregiver, can she/he see
      all areas of the play area easily?













                                                              (screen 11 of 19)
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS IF CHILD IS AN INFANT OR TODDLER



    * Is feeding and diapering done in a loving, patient manner?
    * Is there time spent holding, playing, and talking with your baby?
    * Is the infant kept clean?
    * Is the setting "child proof" so that your toddler can crawl or walk
      safely?
    * Are there a variety of activities and materials that are age-appropriate?
    * Does the infant/toddler spend time outdoors?
    * Is there a written or other effective feedback mechanism to give parents
      accurate information about daily eating sleeping, and elimination?
    * Will the caregiver feed according to your directions?






                                                              (screen 12 of 19)
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS IF YOUR CHILD IS A PRE-SCHOOLER



    * Does the program offer a variey of activities?
    * Does the caregiver join in the activities?
    * Are there consistent age-appropriate limits?
    * Are children encouraged to be creative and to make choices?
    * Are children allowed to do things for themselves?











                                                              (screen 13 of 19)
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS IF YOUR CHILD IS SCHOOL AGE -



    * Does the caregiver give children supervision and security, while
      understanding their growing need for independence?
    * Does the caregiver listen to children's problems and experiences?
    * Does the caregiver help children follow through on projects, homework,
      and suggest interesting things to do?
    * Are children's ideas, values, and opinions respected?
    * Is there a room available in which to do homework?
    * Is there time for children to be with their own friends, practice skills,
      and experience a variety of activities?
    * Is there a time and place to be alone?
    * Are there physical activities available geared to school-age children?
    * Is there an outdoor play area?
    * Is there a place for personal belongings?
    * Is it possible for a child to attend outside activities and clubs?


                                                              (screen 14 of 19)
SEVEN KEY POINTS

Research on how to evaluate the quality of a child care center/home came up
with seven key points recommended for parents' use:

Arrival and Departure:  If you are able to see children arriving for the day or
leaving at the end of the day, you can see how other parents and the staff
relate to each other.  You will also be able to see how other children feel
about coming to the home/center and leaving.  Are teachers/caregivers taking
time to talk to parents and to greet each child?  Do teachers/caregivers invite
children into the classroom activities as they arrive?  When a child is upset
about a parent's departure, do teachers/caregivers comfort the child and try to
introduce him or her to something interesting?

Mealtime and Snacks:  Watching the children at mealtime in a center is
important for several reasons.  Notice whether children are allowed to sit
where they want, whether they are a part of serving the meal and clean-up, and
whether teachers/caregivers sit with the children.  Mealtime should be a chance
for children to have a pleasant social time with each other and with their
teachers, and to take part in the choices and tasks involved.
                                                              (screen 15 of 19)
Indoor Activities (reading, storytelling, quiet projects, nap, etc.):  This is
an opportunity to note how teachers/caregivers manage their classroom and how
the staff coordinates itself.  Is there a variety of activities and learning
opportunities, allowing the children to make choices?  Is there a balance
between structured group activities and free play?  Does each child get some
individual attention during the day?  Do children seem involved in the
activities, or are they forced to participate against their will?

Discipline:  Notice how the staff handles problems in behavior.  What do they
do about a lonely or crying child, fighting children, or accidents?  Does there
seem to be a consistency in handling problems?  What kinds of behavior do they
see as "problem behavior?"  Are withdrawn or extremely quiet children ignored?

Consoling and Comforting:  How is the hurt or unhappy child handled?  After an
incident involving two or more children, are all of them handled
satisfactorily, the "wrongdoers" as well as the "victims?"

Active Group Play:  Is running around, jumping, and "letting off steam"
tolerated?  Is there indoor space where this can happen when the weather is
bad?  Is there a full range of activities provided for both boys and girls?    
                                                           (screen 16 of 19)
Are both boys and girls encouraged to be active?  Do teachers/caregivers
recognize when children need active play, and initiate active games?  Is
outdoor play a part of the daily schedule, weather permitting?

Transitions:  Transitions from one activity to another are important.  Are
children allowed to finish what they are doing before they are expected to go
on to something else?  Do they get clear cues and signals about what's coming
next or what's expected of them?  Are children bored and restless between
activities?  Are they kept waiting?









                                                              (screen 17 of 19)


YOUR COMMENTS AND THOUGHTS

Overall, how do you feel about this home?










Overall, how would your child feel about this home?






                                                             (screen 18 of 19)
You will probably want to look elsewhere if any of the items you think are
important are missing or are poor.

Above all, trust your own judgement and feelings about a home or center.  You
know your child best and can tell which will be right for your family.


Sources:

Sally Kees, State Extension Specialist, Nevada
Child Care Connection, 701 Shipley St., Wilmington, Delaware, 19801




                                                             (screen 19 of 19)
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SELECTING A SITTER                              
-DOC-
                              SELECTING A SITTER
              Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life Specialist

Finding a reliable sitter to come to your home is probably the most difficult
kind of child care to arrange.  However, if you feel that having a sitter is
the best arrangement for you and your child, then this checklist can help you
select a suitable person.

An individual sitter is often a good first step for those children who will be
away from their parents for the first time.  Or it may be a helpful solution in
a case where a child needs some extra time to make the transition from home to
child care, especially for children who have never been with large groups of
children before.  An individual sitter is also helpful when you work at night. 
Then the child's sleep is not disrupted and you don't have to drive around town
in the dark.  Furthermore, if you have several children including an infant, it
may be desirable for the children to stay together in their own home.

Make an appointment to interview the sitter.  If she/he is to have the children
in your home, invite the applicant to come there.  If you are to take your
children to her/his home, ask to come over for the interview and use the
checklist for family day care as well as this one.
CHECKLIST

Directions for checklist:

Make a copy for each applicant.  Place a "Y" for yes and an "N" for no by each
question.

 1.  Discuss what fees the sitter expects to make and what you expect to pay.
 2.  Discuss the ages of your children.  Ask about the sitter's previous
     experience with children of the same age.
 3.  Discuss what hours you need care for your children.
 4.  Discuss what arrangement could be made if a child or the sitter were to 
     get sick.
 5.  Would the sitter be able to provide her/his own transportation?  If so, 
     would you reimburse the mileage between your home and the sitter's?
 6.  Discuss exactly what the duties of the sitter will be, such as preparing
     meals or snacks for the children, providing activities, reading stories,
     bathing, etc.
 7.  Ask for and check references carefully.  Was the sitter reliable,
     pleasant, well organized, good with the children?  Would the former
     employer hire the sitter again?
Introduce the sitter to the children.
 8.  Does the sitter demonstrate an interest in your child by asking questions
     such as, "What does your son enjoy doing in the morning?"
 9.  Does the sitter smile and act friendly toward the children?
10.  Does the sitter listen carefully when you describe the child's normal
     routine and your expectations for the sitter?

If you find a sitter that seems to meet your needs, it is a good idea to have
the sitter come to your home on several occasions before you leave her/him
alone with your child.  Not only does this give you an opportunity to show the
sitter where everything is located, it also gives your child a chance to get to
know the sitter gradually.  As soon as possible, encourage the sitter to carry
on as if you were not there.  In this way, you can observe how well the sitter
is doing.  Look for the following points.

SITTER COMPETENCIES

 1.  You can see the sitter praising your children.  For example, saying, "You
     did a good job putting away the blocks."


 2.  You can see the sitter communicating effectively with children -
     explaining in clear steps what the sitter wants the children to do,
     answering the children's questions patiently, frequently kneeling down to
     the child's eye level when talking.
 3.  Your children appear happy, comfortable, and relaxed - laughing, smiling,
     involved in play.
 4.  The sitter seems warm and affectionate with the children, smiling,
     cuddling, speaking pleasantly.
 5.  The sitter works and plays with the children more than standing back and
     ordering them around.
 6.  The sitter spends more time with the children than on the telephone or
     watching TV.
 7.  The sitter uses the children's first names and nicknames when talking to
     or about them.  The sitter does not refer to children by unpleasant names,
     such as "smarty" or "brat," etc.
 8.  The sitter knows where each child is and what the child is doing at all
     times.
 9.  The sitter holds your infant while feeding rather than propping the
     bottle.
10.  The sitter smiles at, talks to, and cuddles your infant rather than
     letting the infant lie in the crib.
11.  Diapers or training pants are changed frequently, as needed.
12.  The sitter allows the children to watch only TV programs that you approve
     and does not encourage or force children to sit in front of the TV for
     long periods.
13.  The caregiver is safety-conscious, putting sharp objects, medicines, or
     other safety hazards out of reach.
14.  The caregiver encourages your children to put toys away after use and
     helps keep the house in order.
15.  The sitter follows your directions carefully, asking questions when she/he
     doesn't understand something.
16.  The sitter is a person you would like your child to copy or imitate.  In
     other words, children are apt to "do as sitters do, more than as they
     say."
17.  The sitter uses guidance or discipline methods similar to your own and
     asks for your advice of a problem comes up.
18.  The sitter tells you what your children did during the day.
19.  The sitter plans several activities, such as cutting and pasting, playing
     a game, making playdough, etc. that your children would enjoy each day.
20.  Your sitter avoids comparing one of your children with another, or your
     child with another child the sitter has cared for before.  For example,
     the sitter DOES NOT say, "See what a big girl Janey is, she doesn't make a
     mess.  Now you be a big boy and don't make a mess."
After you have left the sitter alone with the children for a week or so, you
might stop and think about the following:

21.  Do you sense that your children are happy with the sitter?
22.  Do you sense that the sitter has things under control, the house is picked
     up, the children are playing, etc. when you arrive home?
23.  Does the sitter seem to like the children and feel comfortable in your
     home and with you?
24.  Are you able to talk openly about any concerns you or the sitter have and
     work through solutions together?

If you can answer yes to most of the questions on the checklist, then you are
lucky to have found a good sitter.  Be certain to leave your sitter all the
phone numbers that she/he may need, such as the child's doctor, your work phone
number, and a relative or friend to call in an emergency when you can't be
reached.




As time goes on, trust your own judgement and feeling about a sitter.  You know
your children best and can tell better than any other person whether your child
care situation is working out satisfactorily.




Adapted from Salley Kees, Nevada Extension Service.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DSS LICENSING OFFICES                             
-DOC-
                             DSS LICENSING OFFICES
    Emily S. Wiggins, Extension Family Life & Human Development Specialist

DIRECTOR & ADDRESS                 LOCATION                   TELEPHONE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~                 ~~~~~~~~                   ~~~~~~~~~

Ms. Margaret R. Harrison     County Courthouse           459-5481         
Abbeville County DSS         Court Square
P. O. Box 189                Abbeville
Abbeville  29620
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INFORMATION AVAILABLE IN THE HERD SUMMARY (DHI-202)            
-DOC-
            INFORMATION AVAILABLE IN THE HERD SUMMARY (DHI-202)
                Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

The Herd Summary DHI-202 provides a comprehensive herd analysis and management
report including production, reproduction, genetics, udder health and feed cost
information.  All compiled data result from a) input on the DHI-213 (Herd and
New Cow Data and DHI-201 (Barn Sheet) forms submitted by the supervisor or b)
input submitted through DART.  

The DHI-202 is calculated for the herd each test day.  If the herd is enrolled
in the "Permanent Strings" option, a DHI-202 is also prepared for each string.
In multiple breed herds, all cows of each breed can be in separate "Permanent
Strings" and their yearly averages are considered official.  

Following is a summary of the information appearing in the DHI-202:

1- Type of record, herd code number, scheduling date, date tested, name and
address are listed.  Also reported are the association and supervisor numbers,
and the dates information was received at and sent from the lab and DRPC.

2- Production, income, and feed cost summary.  This section reports information
for this test day on a per cow basis and a rolling herd average basis.  Included
in the production information is the number of total cows,
number of cows in milk, pounds of milk, pounds of butterfat and fat %, pounds of
protein and protein %, and pounds of milk (milking cows only).  Feed intake
information includes pounds of silage, other succulents, dry forage, pasture,
concentrates and other feeds consumed and their TDN values.  Income information
includes the value of product, cost of concentrates, total feed costs, income
over feed costs, and feed cost per hundredweight of milk.  Also reported is the
milk blend price and the fat differential currently being paid.

3- Summary of current breeding herd.  This section includes cows in the herd
that have not been bred, have been bred but currently are diagnosed open, or
whose last breeding date is too recent for assumed or confirmed pregnancy. 
Reported is the producer's desired number of days open before breeding.  Also
included is the total number of cows in the breeding herd, the average number of
breedings for cows open over 100 days at last breeding, the % possible breedings
that were serviced, average days to first breeding and the number of cows
diagnosed open and pregnant this test period.  A section including only cows
with no breeding dates or diagnosed open reports the number of cows and the % of
the total herd. a) open fewer than 60 days; b) open 60-100 days; c) open 101-140
days; d)open over 140 days, and; e) bred but diagnosed open.  Another section
includes either: a) cows bred 60 days prior to current test or b) cows bred but
not diagnosed pregnant.  The later option is for herds that are routinely
pregnancy checked. Days open as of last breeding categorizes both the number and
percentage of cows  a) open fewer than 60 days; b) open 60-100 days; c) open
101-140 days; d) open over 140 days, and; e) bred 3 or more times.

4- Reproductive summary of total herd.  This section includes all cows in
the herd on test day.  Listed is the number of cows and the percentage of the
total herd a) open fewer than 50 days; b) open 50-80 days; c) open 81-100; and
d) open over 100 days at first breeding.  Also included is the average days to
first breeding, percentage of possible breedings that were serviced, and a
break down of the number of cows with breeding or heat intervals a) less than 18
days; b)18 to 24 days; and c) greater than 24 days.  The percentage of problem
cows, the projected minimum calving interval, average days open, total number of
pregnant cows, and the average number of breedings for pregnant cows is also
reported. In addition, the number of service sires with PD$$ and their average
PD$$ is reported.  A section which includes breedings in the last twelve months
reports the number of breedings, the % successful, the number of breedings
per conception, and the conception rate of the first breeding.

5- General management information.  This section provides the dairy producer
with a comprehensive summary of production by stage of lactation, cows to be
milking and dry in the next six months, and a dry cow profile.  In addition,
a comparison of first lactation heifers and second and later lactation cows
is provided.

A chart is provided which separates cows from heifers and breaks them down
into the following stages of lactation:  a) 306 days and greater; b) 200-305
days; c)100-199 days; and d) fewer than 100 days in milk.  Listed are the number
of heifers and cows in each stage, the percentage of the milking herd,
average daily milk production, and the average somatic sell count score. 
Another chart lists the number of cows to be milking, number dry, number of cows
to calve, and the number of heifers to calve for the next six months.  A dry cow
profile reports the number of dry periods, average days dry, and the number of
cows dry  a) fewer than 40 days; b) 40-70 days; and c) over 70 days.  

A section on general information reports the breed of the herd, average
body weight, the sum of test day milk weights in pounds, the daily bulk tank
weight in pounds, and the times the herd is milked.

Another entire section reports information for first calf heifers, second
and later lactation cows, and all lactations combined. Reported are the number
of cows, average age, average peak test day production, projected 305 day ME
for milk and fat, percentage of cows with sire ID, and the average PD$$ of sires
of cows.  The number of cows with somatic cell count scores falling into
the following categories is also reported:  a) 0, 1, 2, and 3; b) 4 and 5; c) 6;
and  d) 7, 8, and 9.  A yearly summary of cows entering and leaving the herd
reports the number and percentage of cows that have entered and that have left
the herd.  Also reported is the number of cows that have left the herd for dairy
purposes, low production, reproductive problems, disease or injury, died,
mastitis or other udder problems, and feet and legs.

6- Yearly Production and Mastitis Summary.  This section is designed to provide
acurrent, up-to-date review of herd information for the past year. 
Information from the current test in addition to the previous twelve tests is
reported.  An average value of all variables is also calculated.  Included is
the number of days in the test period, the number of cows in the herd on test
day, average days in milk and daily milk production for cows in milk, and the
test period persistency index.  All cows in the herd are included in the
calculation of test day averages which include the percentage of cows in milk,
average daily milk production, % fat, and % protein.  The rolling herd average
for milk, fat, and protein is reported.  And finally, the number of cows falling
into the somatic cell count score groups of a) 0, 1, 2, and 3; b) 4 and 5; c) 6;
and d) 7, 8, and 9 is reported, along with an average somatic cell count score.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMPARISON OF MONTHLY REPORTS (DHI 200 & DHI 210)                  
-DOC-
                  COMPARISON OF MONTHLY REPORTS (DHI 200 & DHI 210)
                    Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

The Monthly Reports, the DHI-200 and the DHI-210, are the core for the entire
DHI record system.  All production and management information for each
individual cow is reported on these forms.  In addition, this information is
used to generate most of the data reported on the Herd Summary (DHI-202).  The
DHI-200 was the original Monthly Report form.  The DHI-210 was developed in
response to specific requests from DHI members and the majority of herds now use
the DHI-210.

The DHI-200 and the DHI-210 have the same general arrangement, with the main
body of both reports arranged in rows and columns.  All information on one line
across either report pertains to the same cow.  Each column presents a specific
item of information for all the cows listed.

The following chart compares the information appearing in both reports.  Reports
differ for items no. 14, 16, 18, 22, 25, 26, 27, 29, 30, and 31.
               DHI-200                            DHI-210
                        
 1. Type of record and code.      1. Type of record and code.
 2. Herd code.  	          2. Herd code.
 3. Scheduling date.	          3. Scheduling date.
 4. Date tested.	          4. Date tested.
 5. Page no.		          5. Page no.
 6. Name and address.	          6. Name and address.
 7. Assoc. No.		          7. Assoc. No.
 8. Supervisor No.                8. Supervisor No.
 9. Dates received and mailed by  9. Dates received and mailed    
    DRPC.                            DRPC.
10. Dates of test period.        10. Dates of test period.
11. Breed.		         11. Breed.
12. Sire identification.         12. Sire identification.
13. Cow identification.          13. Cow identification.
14. Test day data - milk wts.    14. Test day data -  SCCS, milk 
    (this test and last), %fat,      wts., % prot., % fat (this
    % prot., lbs. conc. fed, lb.     test), SCCS and milk wts.			
    conc. needed, SCCS (this test    for previous 9 tests.
    and last).	
15. Date of status change and    15. Date of status change and
    code.                            code.
16. Not reported.                16. Lactation no. 
17. Age in mo. at calving.       17. Age in mo. at calving.
18. Barn name.                   18. Index no./Barn name.
19. Days in milk.                19. Days in milk.
20. Condition Affecting Record.  20. Condition Affecting Record.
21. Lactation to date info.:     21. Lactation to date info.:
    a. lbs. of milk                  a. lbs. of milk
    b. % prot. and % fat             b. % prot. and % fat
    c. prot. and fat yield.          c. prot. and fat yield.
22. Projected 305 d ME milk,     22. Projected 305 d ME milk and
    fat, and prot.                   fat.
23. Rating.                      23. Rating.
24. Income over feed costs.      24. Income over feed costs.
25. Value of product.            25. Not reported.
26. Not reported.                26. ERPA.
27. Repro code, service sire ID, 27. Repro code and breeding or
    breeding or heat date, date      heat date (this month and     
    due.                             last), service sire ID, date
                                     due, interval days.
28. Number of days dry/open.     28. Number of days dry/open.
29. Breeding Action Code.        29. Not reported.
30. Persistency of Lactation.    30. Not reported.
31. Body weight.                 31. Not reported.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMPUTERS COMPATIBLE WITH DART                     
-DOC-
                     COMPUTERS COMPATIBLE WITH DART
                  Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

The following computers were able to execute DRPC at Raleigh programs with no
modifications:

     AT&T PC Model 6300
     Columbia MPC 1600-1, Columbia VP-Portable 
     Corona Desktop PC, Corona Portable PC
     Compaq Deskpro, Compaq Portable PC
     Epson QX10 with QXPCIT Titan
     IBM PC, IBM PC Portable
     IBM PC-XT
     IBM PC-AT
     Kaypro 16
     Leading Edge PC
     NCR Personal Computer Model 4
     Panasonic Sr. Partner
     Tandy 1000, (256K version recommended)
     Tandy HD 1200
     Zenith Z150 PC

The following computers were unable to execute DRPC at Raleigh programs without
some hardware or software modifications:

     Data General One
     IBM PC-JR
     Mindset PC
     Sanyo MBC-550-2
     Seequa Chameleon Plus
     Tandy 2000
     Texas Instruments Professional
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BY-LAWS OF STATE DHIA                              
-DOC-
                              BY-LAWS OF STATE DHIA
                     Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

                              Article I-Organization
A.  These By-Laws shall serve the South Carolina Dairy Improvement
Association, Inc., which hereafter shall be referred to as the corporation.

B.  These By-Laws shall serve the area or county dairy improvement associations,
and shall hereafter be referred to as the association.

C.  The corporation shall be the policy-making and governing body of the
South Carolina Dairy Improvement Association, Inc.

D.  The association shall be responsible for employing area or county
personnel and for conducting business on an area or county basis.  The
association shall be responsible to the corporation for the fiscal affairs of
the area or county association.

E.  For purposes of clarification in the By-Laws, the word organization
shall hereafter refer to both the corporation and the association.

F.  These By-Laws shall serve both the corporation and the association unless
so stated otherwise.

                              Article II-Fiscal Year
The fiscal year shall begin January 1 and end December 31, unless otherwise
fixed by the Board of Directors of the corporation.

                              Article III-Purpose
The specific purposes of the organization shall be:

1.  To improve the dairy cattle of the State of South Carolina; to associate
its member together for their mutual benefit as dairy farmers, milk producers,
and breeders of registered cattle; to cooperate with Clemson University College
of Agriculture through its research in dairy cattle and its Extension Services
in Dairy Science and County Cooperative Extension Services; to cooperate with
the national and state breed organizations, the Purebred Dairy Cattle
Association, and agencies for any purpose for which this organization is formed;
to assist its members without profit in promoting the sale and demand for their
dairy cattle through advertising, promotional work with dairymen, dairy
organizations, dealers, and others; and to perform any related activities not
in consistent withthe law that may affect the improvements of the dairy herds of
the state.

2.  To maintain a uniform system of production record keeping on dairy cattle
in the State of South Carolina, to guide its members, dairymen and other
interested persons in the improvement of dairy cattle and programs of all
purposes related there to, including educational, research, breeding and
commercial.

3.  To maintain a high standard of integrity in the DHI record keeping program
to give reliability and stability to their use for whatever purposes may
seem desirable and necessary.

4.  To provide an organization for the supervision of the DHI record
keeping system in the State of South Carolina.  Supervision shall embrace
the enforcement of the rules and regulations for DHI testing, including
procedures for dealing with infractions of the rules, regulations and
procedures.

5.  To supply information to the Extension personnel of Clemson University
for study and analysis and, further to supply similar information to U.S.
Department of Agriculture for the preparation of performance summaries of both
males and females.

6.  To employ and provide to members the services of qualified personnel.

7.  To carry out its responsibilities, the corporation shall enter into
such written agreement between itself and proper representatives of
Clemson University as may be approved by its Board of Directors for
financing, administration and supervision of these dairy record programs.

8.  To operate in such a manner that no earning or net income of this
non-profit organization may accrue or inure to the benefits of any member
whatsoever, but shall be held in common for the mutual benefit of the members.

To further the foregoing purposes, the operations of this organization shall
be conducted in accordance with an agreement between this organization and
the Cooperative Extension Service, Clemson University, consistent with
the Memorandum of Understanding between the Federal Extension Service and
the Agricultural Research Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture and
the Cooperative Extension Service, Clemson University.

                            Article IV-Rules & Regulations
*Section 1.*
The rules and regulations governing the conduct of production testing
programs for this organization shall be the rules and regulations for DHI
testing as recommended and adopted by the Coordinating Group for the National
DHIA Programor as they may be amended authoritatively from time to time.  A copy
of these rules is attached hereto and becomes part of these by-laws, with the
latest revision of said rules and regulations always to be considered
automatically apart of these by-laws.

*Section 2.*
Additional rules and regulations, not inconsistent with Article IV, Section
1, may be adopted by the Board of Directors of the corporation.

                                  Article V-Membership
*Section 1. Admission*
a.  Any person, partnership or corporation owning or leasing one or more
dairy animals may apply for membership.  Each applicant for membership on the
form prescribed by the corporation shall become a member upon acceptance of
the application for membership by the Directors of the Association. 
Each Association shall be a member of the corporation; therefore, any member of
the Association shall also be a member of the corporation.

b.  If membership in the Association is terminated and lapses over one (1)
year, re-admission to membership shall require a new membership fee.

*Section 2. Transfer of Membership*
Membership shall not be transferable except as it may relate to the continuation
of an estate of a deceased member.

*Section 3. Termination*
a.  When a member has ceased to own or lease dairy animals and to use the
services of the Association for a period of one (1) year, his membership shall
be terminated.

b.  Members shall give a 30-day written notice of his intention to terminate
membership to the Directors of the Association.

c.  Whenever the Association deems it to be in its interest to terminate its
services to a member because of inability to give service or because a member
has violated provisions of the by-laws and the rules and regulations of this
organization of his membership agreement, his membership shall be terminated.

*Section 4. Explusion and/or Censure of a Member; Cancellation of Records*
Any member of the Association who violates its by-laws or rules or regulations,
including, but not limited to, the rules and regulations for the conduct of DHI
production testing as referred to in ARTICLE IV, or any member whose practices
in the conduct of such production testing programs or whose use of the
services of the Association or whose use of the records produced under its
supervision are such as to impair the reliability of such records may be
censured, suspended, or expelled, and the herd or lactation records may be
cancelled by the Board of Directors of the Association after notice and a
hearing, if requested, as herein after provided.

*Section 5. Charges Against Members*
Upon receipt of information concerning the conduct of a member adverse to
the interest of the Association by any officer, it shall be the duty of such
officer to investigate the same or cause to be investigated and report his
finding to the Board of Directors.  If the Board of Directors with written
concurrence ofthe President of the Association should take cognizance of,
charges shall be reduced to writing.  The President of the Association shall
then advise said member of the charges along with a notice of time and place of
the hearing thereof not less than 30 days prior to said hearing.  Such notice
shall contain a statement of the purpose and scope of the hearing and the action
which the Association Board of Directors has power to take.  Such notice shall
further advise said member that he may appear in person or, by counsel, produce
witness, affidavits, documentary or other evidence in his behalf.  Whenever, in
the judgement of the Association Board, the best interests of the Association
require it, a member's records and privileges may be suspended until a
decision upon the charges is final.

*Section 6. Hearings*
At the hearing upon said charges, both the member against when they have
been preferred any aggrieved person shall have the rights to be heard in person
or by counsel and to produce whatever witnesses, affidavits, documentary, or
other evidence they may desire to produce.  At the close of said hearing or not
later than 30 days thereafter, the Association Board of Directors shall make
its findings as to the truth or falsity of such charges and render its
decision thereon either censuring, suspending, or excelling said member,
and/or cancelling records or dismissing the charges; and upon dismissal of the
charges restoring him to the privileges in the Association, in case they have
been suspended pending the hearing.

*Section 7. Appeal*
The decision of the Association Board of Directors shall be subject to an
appeal to the corporation Directors by the accused or by any two members of
the corporation Board itself.  Unless the member against whom the charges have
been preferred, or unless two such members of the Board of the corporation
shall within 15 days after written notice of said decision file with the
corporation a notice of appeal, the decision of the Association Board shall
stand as the decision of the corporation Directors.  If an appeal is taken from
the decision of the Association Directors, its decision shall remain in force
until reversed or modified by the corporation Directors.  If an appeal is taken
to the corporation Board, the Association Directors shall transmit to the
corporation Directors the record the proceeding had before it.  The corporation
Directors shall review the proceedings presented, and the hearing upon said
appeal and the decision of the corporation Directors shall be based upon the
record of proceedings before the Association.  At the close of the hearing
before the corporation Board or within 30 days thereafter, the corporation Board
shall render such decision upon said charges as right and justice require,
either affirming, reversing, or revising the decision of the Association Board
with discretionary power in the corporation Board to make any penalty imposed
upon the member either more or less severe or ordering a rehearing of said
charges, and shall file its decision with the corporation, and shall give notice
thereof of the member involved and to the party preferring the charges.

*Section 8. Liability*
While acting upon charges, hearings and appeals, neither the Board of
the Association nor the Board of the corporation nor any of their members, nor
any officer or employee of this organization, nor any employee of the
Clemson University Extension Service shall become liable for decisions rendered
or put into effect as provided for in the by-laws, nor for any action pertaining
to the same.

                                Article VI-Meetings
a.  The Annual Membership Meeting of the corporation shall be held with 90
days after the end of the fiscal year at a place designated by the Board of
the corporation for the transaction of such business as may lawfully come
before this meeting.
b.  The Annual Membership Meeting of the Associations shall be held at a time
and place designated by the Directors of the Association within 60 days after
the end of each fiscal year for the transaction of such business as may
lawfully come before the Meeting.

*Section 2. Special Meetings*
Special meetings of the members of the Association or corporation may be
called at any time by order of the Directors and shall be called at any time
upon the written request of at least 20% of the members.  The notice shall state
the time, place and purpose of the meeting.

*Section 3. Notice of the Meeting*
Written notice of the time and place of the Annual Meeting shall be given not
less than 10 days prior to the date of the Meeting.

*Section 4. Quorum*
The members present shall constitute a quorum.

*Section 5. Voting*
Each member present is entitled to one vote on each question.  Voting by
proxy shall not be permitted.

*Section 6. Order of Business*
In so far as possible the order of business at the Annual and all other
meetings of the members shall be:
     1. Registration of member
     2. Proof of notice of meeting
     3. Reading or disposal of all unapproved minutes
     4. Annual reports of officers and committees
     5. Election of Directors
     6. Unfinished business
     7. New business
     8. Adjournment

                         Article VII-Board of Directors
*Section 1. Qualifications*
Only active members in good standing may be nominated and elected as Directors.
A Director's duties shall terminate at the next Board Meeting when he ceases
to own or lease dairy cattle or use the services of this organization.

*Section 2. Directors*
a.  For the purpose of electing Directors, the corporation shall divide the
state into area or county Associations.  Each Association is entitled to at
least one (1) Director in the corporation.  Each Association is entitled to
an additional Director(s) for each 25 herds or major portion thereof beyond
the initial 25 herds.  The initial division of the South Carolina Dairy
Improvement Association, Inc., into area or county Associations shall be that
which is approved by the majority of the present membership of each proposed
Association. Any subsequent division shall be at the discretion of the Board of
corporation. The Directors of the corporation shall each year determine the
number of herds on test during the months of September with each area or county
Association being notified as to the number of corporation Directors they will
be eligible to have for the coming year.

b.  All Directors of the corporation shall be members of the Board of
Directors of their Association.

c.  Each Association shall have a minimum of three (3) Directors.

*Section 3. Election of Directors*
At the first Annual Meeting, onethird of the Directors shall be elected for
a three year term, onethird for a twoyear term with the remaining
Directors elected for a oneyear term, and thereafter, each Director shall be
elected for a three-year term.  Corporation and Association Directors shall be
elected by the members at the Annual Association Membership Meeting.  Each
Director shall hold office for their term for which he is elected and until his
successor is elected and enters upon his duties.  Directors cannot succeed
themselves after serving two consecutive terms.

*Section 4. Advisors*
The County Agent Leaders and/or Area Dairy Agents may serve as Advisors to
the Board of Directors of the Association.

The Extension Dairy Science Specialists shall serve as Advisors to the Board
of Directors of the corporation.

*Section 5. Vacancies*
Whenever a vacancy occurs on the Board of Directors other than through
expiration of the term of office, the remaining Directors shall appoint a
member to fill the vacancy until his successor can be duly elected at the next
Annual Meeting.

*Section 6. Duties*
a.  The Directors of the corporation shall control the business and affairs
of the corporation and make the necessary rules, regulations, and policies
not inconsistent with the law of the State of South Carolina or with these
By-laws or with rules, regulations, and policies for DHI testing which are a
part of these By-laws as set forth in ARTICLE IV for the management of business
of the affairs, employees, and agents of the corporation.  It may employ or
dismiss corporation employees and fix the minimum compensation policies or
employment.

b.  The Association Directors shall control the business and affairs of
the Association not inconsistent with the corporation.

*Section 7. Compensation*
Officers, Directors and committee members of the corporation may be
compensated for time spent in carrying out their respective duties set forth
herein at such rate as may be established by the Directors and approved by the
members at any Annual Meeting or special meeting called for this purpose.
They may be reimbursed for mileage and for other expenses incurred in
attending duly called meetings and carrying out other duties and
responsibilities duly assigned to them as individuals by the Board of Directors
of the corporation.

*Section 8. Meetings*
a.  The Directors of the corporation shall meet at least semi-annually,
the Executive Committee handling affairs needing attention between
Directors' Meetings.  The Directors of the Association shall meet at least
semi-annually.

b.  Time.  The Directors shall hold their first meeting immediately after
(the same day) as the Annual Membership Meeting.  The President may call
an additional meeting at any time and shall do so on the request of a majority
of the Directors.

c. Notice of Board Meeting.  Notice of a Directors' Meeting shall be mailed
to each Director at least three (3) days prior to the time of such meeting.

d.  Quorum.  A majority of the Directors shall constitute a quorum to
exercise the responsibilities of the Board of Directors.
*Section 9. Executive Committee*
The Executive Committee shall consist of 1)the immediately past President, 2)the
current President, Vice President and Secretary of the corporation; and 3)the
NDHIA Director, when a State member is one the NDHIA Board.  All Executive
Committee members shall be ExOfficio members of the corporation, if not elected
members.

                             Article VIII-Officers
*Section 1. Election of Officers*
The Officers of SC Dairy Improvement Association, Inc., shall consist of a
President, a Vice President, a Secretary and a Treasurer.  The Officers shall be
elected annually be the Directors at an organizational meeting immediately
following the Annual Meetings of the organization.  The President and Vice
President shall be elected from among the Directors.

The Secretary and the Treasurer may or may not be members of the Board of
Directors.  The same person may be Secretary and Treasurer.

*Section 2. Duties of Officers*
The Officers shall have the usual functions of such officers but may be assigned
other duties and responsibilities by action of the Board of Directors.
a.  President.  The President shall:
    1. Preside over all meetings.
    2. Sign as President, with the Secretary, all membership certificates,
contracts, and legal instruments.

b.  Vice President.  In the absence or disability of the President, the Vice
President shall preside and perform the duties of the President.

c.  Secretary.  The Secretary shall:
   1. Keep a complete record of meetings.
   2. Sign as Secretary with the President all membership certificates,
contracts and legal instruments.
   3. Submit to the Annual Meeting of the members a complete and detailed report
of the current year's business.
   4. Serve all notices required by law.
   5. Perform such other duties pertaining to his office as may be required by
the Directors.

d.  Treasurer.  The Treasurer shall:
   1. Receive and disburse all funds.
   2. Keep an accurate account of all monies received and disbursed and proper
vouchers for monies disbursed.
   3. Submit to the Annual Meeting of the members a complete financial report.
   4. Perform such other duties pertaining to his office as may be required by
the Directors.

*Section 3. Bonding of Officers and Employees*
The Directors shall provide an adequate bond for any employee or officer of this
organization handling funds for the faithful performance of their duties,
responsibilities and obligations.

*Section 4. Removal of Directors or Officer*
Any Director or officer may be removed from office by a vote of not less than
three-fourths of the members present at any duly called Annual or special
Meeting.  Notice of the time, place and object of any such contemplated action
shall be given in the manner prescribed in these By-laws to the members and to
the Officer and/or Director against whom such action is directed.  Such Director
and/or Officer shall at the same time be informed in writing of such
contemplated action and at such meeting shall have an opportunity to be heard in
person and/or by counsel and to produce and examine witnesses.

                           Article IX-Capital and Fees
New members shall pay a membership fee.  The amount of the fee shall be fixed by
the Directors.

*Section 2. Operation Expenses*
The Directors will determine the necessary operating expenses which shall be
submitted in the form of an operating budget.

*Section 3. Audit*
As soon as practical after the close of each fiscal year, the books and accounts
shall be audited.  A report of the audit for the fiscal year, together with a
statement of its financial condition, shall be submitted at the Annual Meeting
of members.

The audit of the financial condition of the corporation shall be made by an
independent public account or auditing firm employed for this purposed by the
Directors.

                           Article X-Dissolution
The South Carolina Dairy Improvement Association, Inc., at any regular meeting
or at any special meeting called for the purpose, for which due notice of the
time, place and object of such meeting shall be given as prescribed in the By-
Laws, by the affirmative vote of two-thirds of the members voting thereon, may
discontinue its operation and conclude its affairs.  In such event, if the
assets exceed the liabilities to creditors, such excess or balance shall accrue
to Clemson University for allocation to Cooperative Extension work in dairying.

                           Article XI-Amendments
These By-laws may be amended, when recommended by the corporation Board, by two-
thirds vote of the members present at the Annual Meeting or at a special meeting
called for the purpose, provided a copy of the proposed amendments is enclosed
with the call of the meeting.

These By-laws were adopted by the original members and the first Board of
Directors of the SC Dairy Improvement Association, Inc.

__________________________________,19_____      ______________________________
                                                           President

                                                ______________________________
                                                           Secretary


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EXAMPLE OF DART MANAGEMENT REPORT                            
-DOC-
                       EXAMPLE OF DART MANAGEMENT REPORT     
                  Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist 
 

Following is an example of a management report created through DART.  Listed  
are cow that should be bred; it includes all cows that have been in milk 60 or  
more days and have not been serviced.  Included is the cow's barn name, daily  
milk production, fresh date, and her sixtieth day in milk.   
 
 
               REFERENCE DATE 050887    PAGE  1 
02 - COWS TO BREED -- IN MILK 60 OR MORE DAYS & NOT SERVICED 
     BARN LBS.  FRESH    60TH  
     NAME MILK MO-DA-Y    DAY                                                   

        3  88   2-16-87  4-16 
        4  52   2-16-87  4-16 
        5  46   2-18-87  4-18 
       69  92   1-19-87  3-19 
       75 D Y   2-08-85  4-08               
       94  97   2-17-87  4-17 
       98 104   2-09-87  4-09 
      302  55  11-13-86  1-11 
      310  82   9-16-86 11-14 
      313 108   2-21-87  4-21 
      315  66   1-31-87  3-31 
      319  97   1-25-87  3-25 
      322  67   2-21-87  4-21 
      326  75   1-18-87  3-18 
      335  76   2-01-87  4-01 
      337  96  12-15-86  2-12 
      348  39  11-13-86  1-11 
      360  95  12-14-86  2-11 
      363  60   3-05-87  5-03 
      368  38   8-08-86 10-06 
      376  64   9-16-86 11-14 
      385  94   1-24-87  3-24 
      398 131   2-06-87  4-06 
      416  77  12-18-86  2-15 
    24 COWS LISTED 
Management reports can be created which are tailored to meet the producer's  
need.  Up to 16 different report items (such as cow name, days in milk, daily  
milk production) can be included in each report.  A total of 105 different  
report items are available.   
 
The producer also has the flexibility to include only the cows of his/her  
choice.  For instance, the report above lists only cows that are:  1) at least  
60 days in milk; and 2) have not been bred.  These are referred to as selector  
controls.  There are a total of 65 different selector controls that can be  
used.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PC-DART                                     
-DOC-
                                    PC-DART 
                  Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist 
 
PC-DART is very similar to DART (Direct Access to Records by Telephone) in 
that is allows the dairy producer to access his/her DHIA records to use 
for management purposes.  When a dairy producer is enrolled in the DART 
program, he/she accesses the records by calling the mainframe computer in 
Raleigh through a computer modem.  With PC-DART, however, the records are stored
on the producer's computer and he/she must call the computer at Raleigh only to 
upload new test day and herd activity data and to download the new processed 
data after each test.  This greatly reduces the number of long-distance phone 
calls one must make and also the computer charges which are assessed each time 
the mainframe computer is accessed. 
 
Since all the herd records are stored on the producer's computer, a more 
powerful computer is required for PC-DART than for DART.  The minimum 
equipment required to properly operate PC-DART includes an IBM-PC compatible 
computer with 256K of memory, one floppy disk drive and a 10 megabyte hard disk 
drive. Computers more powerful than this will provide improved performance for 
larger herds.  A printer and 1200 baud Hayes compatible modem are also required.

The same kinds of management lists available through DART are also 
available through PC-DART.  The commands and operational procedures are also 
very similar. All of the time-sensitive parameters such as date due, date 
expected in heat, date to turn dry and cows to pregnancy check are done on the 
farm computer. Calculations that are made in Raleigh include the lactation 
totals, mature equivalent projections, lifetime totals, ERPA's and life 
histories. 
 
The up-front cost of PC-DART is higher than DART because of the program 
purchase and additional hardware for those herds who choose to upgrade their 
computer system.  The overall costs should be less, particularly for the larger 
herds since connect time and telephone costs will be greatly reduced with 
PC-DART. The program is available for $1695 which includes a $300 fee to set up 
the master data file and DRPC interface for one herd.  This price includes 
any updates or revisions that are made. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DEFINITION OF STATE DHIA                              
-DOC-
                              DEFINITION OF STATE DHIA
                    Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

South Carolina DHIA (SCDHIA) is the organization within the state that
is responsible for DHI services, and for enforcement of the National
Cooperative Dairy Herd Improvement Program (NCDHIP) rules, policies and
quality certification standards.  The State DHIA will:

1) Cooperate with all appropriate parties to implement the rules, policies
and standards of the NCDHIP Policy Board;
2) Take responsibility on a state basis to ensure a high level of performance
of DHI services including organizational management, business procedures and
day-to-day administration of NCDHIP;
3) Take responsibility on a state basis to certify that NCDHIP is conducted
in each area in accordance with NCDHIP rules, policies and the
quality certification standards of National DHIA;
4) Work with each local DHIA to ensure each dairy farmer participating in
NCDHIP signs an agreement to abide by the rules, policies and standards of
NCDHIP;
5) Take responsibility on a state basis for enforcing NCDHIP rules, policies
and standards, and for appropriate hearing procedures as needed at local and
state levels;
6) Contract with an approved Dairy Records Processing Center (DRPC) for
data processing of the state's DHI records and assume responsibility to
certify NCDHIP policies and the Official DHI Records are followed;
7) Make the program available to all dairy producers who meet its membership
requirements; and
8) Keep the Extension Service informed about problems or conditions of mutual
concern.

Officers for the SCDHIA are as follows:

President:       George Binnicker
                 Route 1
                 Norway, South Carolina  29113      
                 Phone:  263-4645

Vice President:  Joel Riley
                 Route 1
                 Saluda, South Carolina  29138 
                 Phone:  445-8591

Secretary:       Dr. Jean Bertrand
                 119 P & A Building
                 Clemson University
                 Clemson, South Carolina  29634-0363
                 Phone:  656-3231

Treasurer:       Harold Longshore
                 Route 1
                 Saluda, South Carolina  29138    
                 Phone:  445-8359

Past President:  Glenn Easter
                 RFD 2, Box 812
                 Laurens, South Carolina  29630

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
DESCRIPTIONS OF RECORD PLANS                           
-DOC-
                           DESCRIPTIONS OF RECORD PLANS
                  Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist

NCDHIP makes available several different  record  plans  which  vary  according 
to the  needs  of  the  DHI  member.  These  are  classified as Official Record 
or Management Records.  Plans with Dairy Records Processing Center (DRPC)  codes
00 to  29  are  considered  official  if  all  DHI  rules are followed,  and the
weighing and sampling of each cow's  milk  is  carried  out  by  a  trained  an 
approved DHIA supervisor.  All other plans are considered unofficial because not
all  DHI  rules have been followed,  or the owner recorded the milk weights,  or
samples were not taken for component testing.  Reports are  received  from  DRP 
under  all  plans and the same information in available for management decisions
whether the records are official  or  unofficial.

Dairy  producers  should  decide whether   official  records  are  important  to 
them  for the  sale  of  stock, advertising and publication of herd  averages 
and  individual cow  records.  If not,  the  unofficial  programs  may  meet
management needs at a lower cost.  Of course,  official records are important to
the industry  for genetic  evaluation programs  as  well  as  research.    

Owner-sampler   programs   generally   are   less  expensive  since  the  dairy 
producer provides the labor for weighing and sampling the milk  from  each  cow. 
Milk  only programs  will  save  the  cost  of testing milk samples at a central
laboratory.  AP (AM/PM) programs are less expensive than non-AP plans since only
one milking is weighed and sampled.     
   
Following is a list and description of record plans available  through  DRPC  a 
Raleigh   
     
DRPC       DRP      
code       tag          DHI record plan description    
                        Official Records (00-29)  
                        All Official Rules Apply  

00         DHI          (Dairy Herd Improvement).  The DHI  
                        Supervisor visits the farm for each milking   
                        in a 24 hour period.  Milk weights and   
                        samples are obtained  at  each milking.
      
01       DHI-APT         (Dairy Herd Improvement AM-PM with Time 
                         monitor).  For herds milked twice daily,     
                         milk weights and samples are obtained   
                         alternately at AM and PM milkings for        
                         consecutive test periods.  The time monitor  
                         verifies the time of the second milking.
                         For herds in which every cow is milked  
                         three times daily, two consecutive milkings  
                         are weighed, one or two sampled (optional)   
                         and they are rotated among the milkings on   
                         subsequent test day.  Appropriate adjustment
                         factors are applied to each cow's  
                         production to determine the 24 hour total.   
                  
02       DHI-APCS        (Dairy Herd Improvement with alternate AM-   
                         PM Component Sampling).  For herds milked    
                         twice daily, milk weights are obtained at    
                         both AM and PM milkings but samples are      
                         taken at alternate AM or PM milkings on      
                         alternate test days.  For herds milking 
                         twice daily, milk weights are obtained       
                         from all three milkings, but samples are     
                         taken from one or two milkings, (optional)   
                         that are rotated among all three milkings    
                         on consecutive test days.  Appropriate  
                         adjustment factors are applied at determine  
                         the component percentage.
     
20  DHIR                 (Dairy  Herd  Improvement  Registry).  In    
                         addition  to meeting all official DHI rules,      
                         additional requirements of the appropriate   
                         national breed registry organization must    
                         be met.  The dairy producer must receive a   
                         permit from  the  registry  organization     
                         before DHIR status can be obtained.     
     
21    DHIR-APT           (Dairy Herd Improvement Registry AM-PM with  
                         Time monitor).  These records  are the  same      
                         as  code  01 except the herd must have  
                         DHIR status (see code 20).  This record is   
                         not accepted by the Holstein Association or  
                         the American  Goat Association.    
     
22    DHIR-APCS           (Dairy  Herd Improvement Registry with      
                          Alternate AM-PM Component Sampling).  These      
                          records are the same as code  02  except  the    
                          herd  must have DHIR status (see code 20).       
                          This record is not accepted by the Holstein      
                          Association or the American Goat  
                          Association.

            
                           Management Records (30-39))
                          All Official Rules Apply Except as Noted

31    DHI-AP              (Dairy Herd Improvement AM-PM without Time  
                          Monitor).  These records are the same as    
                          code 01 except no time monitor is required.      
                          The records are used in USDA sire summaries      
                          but no USDA cow index values are                      
                          calculated.   
     
33    DHI-MO              (Dairy Herd Improvement Milk Only).  These       
                          records are the same as code 00 without     
                          component sampling. 
     
34   DHI-MO-AP            (Dairy Herd Improvement Milk Only AM-PM).   
                          These records are the same as code 01       
                          without component sampling.  

                           Management Records (40-99))
                           Official Rules Do Not Applyy

40   OS                   (Owner Sampler).  Milk weights and samples  
                          are obtained from each milking in a 24 hour           
                          period.  The dairy producer or someone else           
                          other than the supervisor is responsible              
                          for taking the milk weights and samples.   
     
41  OS-AP                  (Owner Sampler AM-PM).  These records are       
                           the same as code 31 except the dairy       
                           producer or someone else other than the    
                           supervisor is responsible for taking the   
                           milk weights and samples.  The records are      
                           not used in USDA sire summaries..

42  OS-APCS                (Owner Sampler with alternate AM-PM   
                           Component Sampling).  These records are the     
                           same as code 02 except the dairy producer  
                           or someone else other than the supervisor  
                           is responsible for taking the milk weights 
                           and samples.

43  OS-MO                  (Owner Sampler Milk Only).  Milk weights   
                           are taken for all milkings in a 24 hour    
                           period but no samples are taken.  The 
                           dairyman or someone else other than the    
                           supervisor is responsible for taking the        
                           milk weights..

44  OS-MO-AP              (Owner Sampler Milk Only AM-PM).  The  
                          dairy producer or someone else other than   
                          the supervisor takes the milk weights for   
                          only one milking in a 24 hour period.

45  OS-BA                 (Owner Sampler with Breed Average fat  
                          test).  The dairy producer or someone else  
                          other than supervisor takes the milk   
                          weights for all milkings in a 24 hour  
                          period.  No samples are taken and the breed      
                          average fat test is applied to each    
                          individual cow.    

46  OS-AP-PT              (Owner Sampler AM-PM with Plant fat test).  
                          These records are the same as code 44  
                          except the herd's plant fat test is applied 
                          to each milking cow in the herd.  

49  OS-PT                 (Owner Sampler with Plant Test).  These     
                          records are the same as code 45 except the       
                          herd's plant fat test rather than the breed 
                          average is applied to each milking cow in   
                          the herd.     
     
50  OS-AP-BA              (Owner Sampler AM-PM with Breed Average fat 
                          test).  These records are the same as code  
                          44 except the breed average fat test is     
                          applied to each milking cow in the herd..

70  SS                    (Supervisor Sampled).  These records are    
                          the same as code 40 except the DHI     
                          Supervisor takes the milk weights and  
                          samples.

71  SS-AP                 (Supervisor Sampled AM-PM).  The supervisor 
                          obtains milk weights and samples from one        
                          milking only.  The milking weighed and 
                          sampled is to be rotated among test    
                          periods.      
 
72  SS-APCS               (Supervisor Sampled with alternate AM-PM    
                          Component Sampling).  The supervisor   
                          obtains milk weights from each milking in a 
                          24 hour period but samples only one.  The   
                          milking sampled is to be rotated among test      
                          periods. 
     
73  SS-MO                 (Supervisor Sampled Milk Only).  The   
                          supervisor obtains milk weights from each   
                          milking in a 24 hour period but takes no    
                          samples. 
     
74  SS-MO-AP              (Supervisor Sampled Milk Only AM-PM).  The  
                          supervisor obtains milk weights from one    
                          milking only.  No samples are taken.   







-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE POMACE	                                  
-DOC-
                                  APPLE POMACE	
                   Fred E. Pardue, Extension Dairy Scientist	
	
Apple pomace is a by-product of apples which have been crushed for cider, 
vinegar, or wine.  It is a very palatable feed for cattle and can be fed fresh, 
ensiled, or dry.  The dry matter content of apple pomace is about 20%.
Table 1 Apple Pomace.	
1)    DM    CP    Fat    CF     ADF     Ca     P      TDN        NEL	

      %     %      %     %      %       %      %       %      Mcal/100 lbs	
      100   7.6    4.8   21   47.0    .10    .10      69         71.2	
	
In some areas of the country rice hulls are added to the apple pomace at the 
processing plant.  Rice hulls have very little nutritional value, and the 
feeding value of the apple pomace will be decreased according to the amount of 
rice hulls added. 	
Table 2 Rice Hulls and Table 3 Apple Pomace 50% + 50% Rice Hulls.	
2)    DM    CP    Fat    CF     ADF     Ca     P      TDN        NEL	

      %     %      %     %      %       %      %       %      Mcal/100 lbs	
      100   7.6    4.8   21.4   47.0    .10    .10    71.4       73.9	


3)    DM    CP    Fat    CF     ADF     Ca     P      TDN        NEL	

      %     %      %     %      %       %      %       %      Mcal/100 lbs	
      100   5.4    2.9   32     60    .10    .09       40        3.9	

Apple pomace should not be fed in a ration containing non-protein nitrogen 
sources such as urea or anhydrous ammonia, as this practice can lead to serious 
reproduction problems. 	
	
Apple pomace is occasionally contaminated with pesticide residues.  Care should 
be taken to test the pomace from each supplier for prohibited residues.	
	
Apple pomace can be fed to lactating cows at a rate of up to 30 pounds (5.6 
pounds DM) per head per day.	














-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOUTH CAROLINA DAIRY HERD IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATION	                  
-DOC-
                  SOUTH CAROLINA DAIRY HERD IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATION	
                     Jean A. Bertrand, Extension Dairy Scientist	
	
President - Mr. George Binnicker, Route 1, Norway, SC  29113	
	
Vice President - Dr. Joel Riley, Route 1, Saluda, SC  29138	
	
Secretary - Dr. Jean A. Bertrand, 119 Poole Agricultural Center, Clemson 
            University, Clemson, SC  29634-0363	
	
Treasurer - Mr. Harold Longshore, Route 1, Saluda, SC  29138	
	
Fieldman - Mr. Richard Culbreth, Route 4, Abbeville, SC  29620	


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WHOLE COTTONSEED	                                
-DOC-
                                WHOLE COTTONSEED	
                   Fred E. Pardue, Extension Dairy Scientist	

         DM    CP    FAT    CF    ADF    Ca    P    TDN          NEL	

          %     %      %     %      %     %     %     %      Mcal/100 lbs	
         100   22.6  18.3   25.8  33.1    .15  .73   97.8       101.2	
	
Whole cottonseed is high in protein, fat, fiber, and energy.  This combination 
of nutrients in one feedstuff is unusual.  Whole cottonseed with the lint still 
attached is white and fuzzy in appearance, is sometimes called "fuzzy seed," 
and has the analysis shown above.  Whole cottonseed from which the lint has 
been removed is called delinted seed, is black and smooth in appearance, and 
tends to be slightly higher in protein and fat than the fuzzy seed.	
	
Research at the Universities of California and Pennsylvania has show that 
feeding whole cottonseed to lactating cows can stimulate higher milk fat test 
and help maintain milk persistency.  It should be fed at the rate of four to 
seven pounds per cow per day.  Levels higher than seven pounds per cow per day 
give no further improvement in milk quality or persistency.  Mechanically 
delinted seed has the same effect as fuzzy seed.	
	
Whole cottonseeds do not need to be crushed or processed in any way before 
feeding.	
	
                               COTTONSEED HULLS	
	
          DM    CP    FAT    CF    ADF    Ca    P    TDN         NEL	

          %     %      %     %      %     %     %     %      Mcal/100 lbs	
         100   22.6  18.3   25.8  33.1    .15  .73   97.8       101.2	
	
Cottonseed hulls are used mostly in the southern area of the United States.  
They are low in protein, calcium, phosphorus and energy and high in fiber.  
Cottonseed hulls are palatable and are used as a roughage for cattle, 
especially in areas where good quality forages are scarce.  For example, in 
Florida cottonseed hulls may make up 20 to 30 percent of the ration dry matter.  
They are occasionally included in grain mixtures to increase the bulk density 
and crude fiber content.  They can be helpful in supporting fat test in low 
fiber or low roughage rations.	




-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEAN HULLS	                               
-DOC-
                               SOYBEAN HULLS	
                  Fred E. Pardue, Extension Dairy Scientist	

       DM     CP     Fat     CF     ADF     Ca     P     TDN      NEL	

       %      %       %      %       %      %      %      %    Mcal/100 lbs	
      100    11.0    2.2    39.6   50.0     .49   .18   78.0      81.2	
	
Soybean hulls are a by-product of soybean processing for oil and meal 
production.  Soybean hulls have urease activity which can be a problem in 
rations containing urea.  Heat treatment destroys and urease activity.  Soybean 
hulls which have been heat treated are referred to as soybean mill run.	
	
Soybean hulls run is a palatable feedstuff for cows and calves.  It contains a 
high level of very digestible fiber.  It has slightly more TDN than beet pulp 
and oats, 93 percent of the TDN value of barley, and 88 percent of the TDN 
value of corn.	
	
Soybean hulls run may be included in the grain mixture at a rate of up to 45 
percent or fed at a rate of up to 14 pounds per cow per day.  Because of its 
bulky texture, caution should be taken when feeding over 12 pounds per cow per 
day.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COTTONSEED HULLS	                                 
-DOC-
                                 COTTONSEED HULLS	
                   Fred E. Pardue, Extension Dairy Scientist	
	
          DM     CP     FAT     CF     ADF     Ca     P     TDN     NEL	
	
          %      %       %      %       %      %      %      %   Mcal/100 lbs	
         100    4.1     1.6    48.3    73.0    .11   .11   43.9     44.4	
	
Cottonseed hulls are used mostly in the southern area of the United States.  
They are low in protein, calcium, phosphorus and energy and high in fiber.  
Cottonseed hulls are palatable and are used as a roughage for cattle, 
especially in areas where good quality forages are scarce.  For example, in 
Florida cottonseed hulls may make up 20 to 30 percent of the ration dry matter.
They are occasionally included in grain mixtures to increase the bulk density 
and crude fiber content.  They can be helpful in supporting fat test in low 
fiber or low roughage rations.	



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BLUE-GREEN ALGAE POISONING	                             
-DOC-
                             BLUE-GREEN ALGAE POISONING	
                       R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
A common sight between June and November is green colored scum on lakes and 
ponds, particularly those that are shallow and subject ao agricultural run off 
from pastures and grain fields.  Some of these algae and plant growths are 
caused by toxic species of blue green algae, the most common of which is 
Mycrocystia aeruginosa and Anabena flos-aquae.  Both contain a blue pigment 
readily visible upon drying and potent toxins that affect the neuromuscular 
function primarily and the liver.  Hepatotoxicity with subsequent 
photosensitization is a prominent sign in animals that survive the initial 
effects of the toxins of green algae on the nervous system.	
	
Toxic blue green algal blooms usually occur after a period of hot, dry 
cloudless weather associated with steady southerly or southwesterly winds which 
result in accumulation of the algal growth on the lee shore.  Grossly, the 
surface of the water appears to be covered with paint having a pea-soup color.  
From a distance, algal growths may not be visible; therefore shoreside 
inspection is mandatory.  The presence of green colored colonies in water does 
not mean that toxic algae are always present.  There are many not toxic species 
of algae, as well as multicellular chlorophyll containing plants which could be 
confused with toxic algae.  When you suspect algae poinsoning send a 
refrigerated sample of the growth to the Clemson Diagnostic Laboratory for 
examination.	
	
Typical symptoms are hyperexcetability and sometimes aggressiveness.  Trembling 
and ataxia are common with death following in a few hours after ingestion of 
the toxic fungus.	
	
There is no specific antidote for blue-green algae poisoning.  However, 
activated charcoal has the property of adsorbing algae toxins in vitro.  Death 
may occur within 10 minutes in case of massive intoxication of a highly toxic 
variety of algae.  The toxic material is probably a cyclic polypeptide.	
	
When the weather cools, growth will slow down and the algae will be dispersed 
in the pond where it is no longer in toxic levels.	

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MAJOR PARASITES OF SWINE                            
-DOC-
                            MAJOR PARASITES OF SWINE
                      R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian	
	
Swine Parasite:   Intestinal threadworm (Strongyloides ransomi)	
	
Description:      Adults are hair-like, measuring up to 4-5 cm long.	
	
Symptom/Site	
  of Disease:     Poor appetite; anemic; emaciation; diarrhea; vomiting.  Lives 
                  in the mucous of the small intestine, but infested pigs and 
                  sows weakened from nursing may die from larval damage to the 
                  heart, brain, spinal cord or other organs.	

Geographic area:  Most commonly found in the South and Southeast.	

Prevention:       Clean farrowing quarters with hot lye water; wash sow; 
                  maintenance worming program.	
	
Miscellaneous:    The only parasitic adult form is a parthenogenic female.  
                  Migrating larvae may infect nursing piglets through the 
                  colostrom or milk.  Mortaility in baby pigs may approach 50%.	
_____________________________________________________________________________	

Swine Parasite:   Kidney worm (Stephanurus dentatus)	
	
Description:      Adult is stout-bodied, measuring 2 to 4 cm long.  Internal 
                  organs show through body wall for a mottled appearance.	
	
Symptom/Site	
  of Disease:     Emaciation; poor growth and feed utilization; pus in urine; 
                  muscle stiffness; ascites.  Damage is done by migrating 
                  larvae causes lesions, abscess, and necrosis of liver and 
                  perirenal tissues.  Can travel to psoas muscles, spinal cord 
                  and lungs.	
	
Geographic area:  Serious in Southern States.  Thrives in tropical and 
                  subtropical climates.	
	
Prevention:       Limit the breeding herd to gilts.  Institute strict 
                  sanitation procedures.	
	
Miscellaneous:    Can enter through the skin or oral route.	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
	
Swine Parasite:   Lungworms (Metastrongylus spp)	
	
Description:      Adult is slendor, white and up to 6 cm long; each egg 
                  contains a larvae when laid.	
	
Symptom/Site	
  of Disease:     Coughing; difficult breathing; anorexia; weakness.  Heavy 
                  infections may result in localized pneumonia.	
	
Geographic area:  Heavier in Southern States.	
	
Prevention:       Ring pigs to prevent rooting; free lots of boards, etc. under 
                  which earthworms may live.	
	
Miscellaneous:    Lungworms can carry the swine flu and hog cholera viruses.	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
	
Swine Parasite:   Nodular worms (Oesophagostomum spp)	
	
Description:      Adults are 8 to 14 mm long; white in color and have a shallow 
                  buccal capsule.	
	
Symptom/Site	
  of Disease:     General weakness and emaciation; digestive disturbances.  
                  Larvae entering the gut wall produces pus-filled nodules that 
                  interfere with nutrient absorption.	
	
Geographic area:  Heaviest in Southeastern States.	
	
Prevention:       Strict sanitation.  Rotate pastures.  Repeated anthelmintic 
                  treatments are necessary as larvae in nodules are not 
                  affected with treatment.	
	
Miscellaneous:    Associated with "thin sow" syndrome.	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
	
Swine Parasite:   Red stomach worm (Hyostrongylus rubidus)	
	
Description:      Adults are 0.5 to 1 cm long; bright red in color results from 
                  bloodsucking.	
	
Symptom/Site	
  of Disease:     Anemia; anorexia; generalized weakness; increased thirst.	
	
Geographic area:  Primarily found in the South, but some infestations have been 
                  seen in the North.	
	
Prevention:       Strict sanitation and pasture management.  Sows should be 
                  treated prior to farrowing.  Treat young pigs at 8 weeks of
                  age.	
	
Miscellaneous:    Only harmful when worms are present in large numbers and host 
                  conditions are reduced by poor nutrition.	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
	
Swine Parasite:   Roundworms (Ascaris spp)	
	
Description:      Adult is large (15-40 cm) and white to yellow in color.	
	
Symptom/Site	
  of Disease:     Poor growth and lowered resistance to disease in young pigs; 
                  respiratory signs appear if verminous pneumonia develops 
                  ("thumps").	
	
Geographic area:  Universal	
	
Prevention:       Worm and wash sows prior to farrowing housing to prevent 
                  ingestion of eggs.  Strict housekeeping.	
	
Miscellaneous:    USDA ranks ascariasis as the internal parasite causing 
                  greatest economic loss in the swine industry.  Pigs up to 5 
                  months are most severely affected.	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
	
Swine Parasite:   Thick stomach worms (Ascarops strongylina, Physocephalus 
                  sexaltus)	
	
Description:      Adult males are 10-15 mm long, females 16-22 mm; red colored 
                  with a narrow cuticular wing on left side.	
	
Symptom/Site	
  of Disease:     Unthriftiness, anorexia.  Only the mucous of the stomach is 
                  affected.	
	
Geographic area:  Throughout the U. S.	
	
Prevention:       Most general parasite control programs will effectively 
                  control infestation.	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
	
Swine Parasite:   Thorn-headed worms (Macracanthorynchus hirodenaceus)	
	
Description:      Adults are 10 to 35 cm long with redish transversely wrinkled 
                  bodies, proboscis anchors the worm to the intestinal wall.	
	
Symptom/Site	
  of Disease:     General unthriftiness.  Pea-like nodules form.	
	
Geographic area:  Southern States.	
	
Prevention:       Good pasture management.  Ring pigs to prevent rooting.  Keep 
                  hogs off lots having June bug grubs.	
	
Miscellaneous:    Condition generally not recognized until necropsy.	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
	
Swine Parasite:   Trichina (Trichinella spiralis)	
	
Description:      Adults are tiny nematodes, 2 to 4 mm long.	
	
Symptom/Site	
  of Disease:     Seldom symptoms in living hogs, but hogs may move stiffly.  
                  Larvae enter muscles and form cysts.  Primary skeletal 
                  muscles are affected.	
	
Geographic area:  Universal	
	
Prevention:       Avoid feeding of garbage.  Free area of rats.	
	
Miscellaneous:    Poses health concerns in humans.	
_____________________________________________________________________________	
	
Swine Parasite:   Whipworms (Tricharis suis)	
	
Description:      Anterior two-thirds slender and threadlike, posterior third 
                  is thicker.  Male has a coiled tail, female is straight.  
                  Adult up to 5 cm long.	
	
Symptom/Site	
  of Disease:     Diarrhea; weight loss; anorexia.  Lives with its head deeply 
                  imbedded in the lining of the large intestine.	
	
Geographic area:  Throughout the entire U. S. but heaviest in the Southeast.	
	
Prevention:       Keep areas dry.  Separate mature and young animals.	
	
Miscellaneous:    Mortality in newly weaned pigs can be high.	
_____________________________________________________________________________	



-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NITRATE TOXICITY                                
-DOC-
                               NITRATE TOXICITY 
                     R. E. Wright, Extension Veterinarian
                                                         
The drought of 1986 stimulated a lot of interest in nitrate toxicity and we are 
getting some high readings from a few locales.  When we had some rain the 
nitrate danger was not diminished but rather was greater than during the 
drought. The rain caused the plants to renew growth and take up nitrogen 
rapidly.  The plant will then have high levels of nitrate until it can 
assimilate the nitrogen.  It has been estimated that this process should take 
one to two weeks under normal conditions. 
 
The following is a chart taken from a publication from Pennsylvania State 
University that gives the toxic nitrate levels in percentage of nitrate 
nitrogen.  Clemson University Forage Testing Laboratory reports nitrate levels 
as nitrate nitrogen (NO3-N).  The SC Department of Agriculture laboratory 
reports nitrate levels as Nitrate (NO3) so that you have to convert their 
figures by dividing by a factor of 4.4 to get the reading in nitrate-nitrogen.  
This chart also gives the effect of nitrate toxicity over time.  
Level of Nitrate (NO3)
on Dry Matter Basis                Comments
_________________________________________________________________
 
0.0 - 0.10 % (0.0 to 1,000 ppm)    This level is considered safe
                                   to feed under all conditions.
 
0.1 - 0.15% (1000 to 1500 ppm)     This level should be safe 
                                   to feed to non-pregnant animals.
                                   Limit to 50% of the total ration 
                                   in pregnant animals (On a dry
                                   matter basis). 
 
0.15 - 0.20% (1500 to 2000 ppm)    Limit to 50% of the total dry
                                   matter in the ration.
 
0.20 - 0.35% (2000 to 3500 ppm)    Limit to 35-40% of the total
                                   dry matter in the ration. 
                                   Should not be used in pregnant
                                   cows. 
0.35 - 0.40% (3500 to 4000 ppm)    Limit to 25% of the total dry
                                   matter in ration. Do not feed
                                   to pregnant cows.
_________________________________________________________________
 
There may be times you have to make conversions from one system of reporting 
to another; therefore, the following conversion table is given for Nitrogen 
Conversion factors: 
________________________________________________________________ 
Nitrate Nitrogen (N)           1.0 
Nitrite (NO2)                  3.3 
Nitrate (NO3)                  4.4 
Sodium nitrate (NaNO3)         6.1 
Potassium nitrate (KNO3)       7.2      
________________________________________________________________
 
The above values are based on molecular weight and do not agree as well with 
the toxicity values.  This means basically that the toxicity values are 
estimates and no one can give a definite figure for toxicity. We can also get 
an additive effect if there is a high nitrate level in the cow's drinking 
water. The following is a Nebraska table for nitrate in water. 
Water Nitrate Level Significance
________________________________________________________________
45-50 ppm nitrate               Maximum safe level in water. Loss
or 5ppm nitrite                 of production (weight gain & growth)
 
50-300 ppm Nitrate              Severe production loss, reduced
                                disease resistance and abortion
 
300-600 ppm nitrate             Acute toxicity and death.
________________________________________________________________
 
Remember that nitrate is highest in the lower parts of the plant. Be sure and 
get a representative sample of the plant to be fed when you do field tests.  
It doesn't matter that the stalk has 20,000 ppm if it is going to stay in the 
field but if it is to be a part of the silage it must be averaged with the 
leaves and grain to give you an average reading. Cows that are being fed grain 
are less susceptible to nitrate toxicity.  In addition cows build up 
resistance to nitrate. Nitrate is converted in the rumen to nitrite which is 
toxic.    The rate of conversion is the primary factor.  Remember that 
nitrates can be converted to nitrite in nature by letting high nitrate hay get 
wet.  Nitrite is ten times as toxic as nitrate. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
INSECT UPDATE                                
-DOC-
                                INSECT UPDATE
                             Extension Entomology          

         *********  THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION IS AVAILABLE  *********
                    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
STINK BUGS ON COTTON, CORN AND SOYBEAN--------------------------page 365001A
FOLLOW UP ON "FISH HOOK CORN" PROBLEMS--------------------------page 365001C
HOW CAN YOU DO ANYTHING ABOUT STINK BUG DAMAGE TO CORN----------page 365001G
POSSIBLE CANCELATION OF CHLORDIMEFORM (GALECRON, FUNDAL)--------page 365001I
NEW EFFORT TO AMEND FIFRA DURING 1987---------------------------page 365001J
KELTHANE CANCELLATION-------------------------------------------page 365001M
NEW INSECTICIDE LABELS------------------------------------------page 365001N
ALFALFA LEAFHOPPERS INFESTING ALFALFA---------------------------page 365001O
INSECT MANAGEMENT IN GRAIN STORAGE BINS-------------------------page 365001P
PESTICIDE EMERGENCY RESPONSE INFORMATION CENTER-----------------page 365001R



To select a given page use the key sequence F1 7 and then type in the page
number.
                   STINK BUGS ON COTTON, CORN AND SOYBEAN
                   Jay W. Chapin, Extension Entomologist

CORN: Beginning in early July, we started getting complaints of deformed 
(crook-shaped) ears on field corn.  The damage ranges from just an occaisional 
ear to 90 % of the ears being affected.  So far we've seen it from Allendale, 
Barnwell and Bamberg Counties. Johnny Brewer and Frank McAlhaney have reported 
a lot of this damage from their counties.  The only probable cause we can come 
up with so far is early stink bug damage.  Boron deficiency has been suggested 
as a possible cause but is unlikely across the acreage with the problem.  
Severely stunted ears I've examined have multiple stink bug puncture wounds.  
All  of the fields we've looked at have some green and brown stink bugs but in 
most cases not high numbers.  We're still looking for other possible explana-
tions but I'm sure stink bugs are the culprit.  We may have to begin checking 
corn prior to silking for stink bugs.  Research conducted at L. S. U. indicates 
that in order to cause these "fish hook" ears, feeding occurs when the devel-
oping ear is only 1" long.  Treatment should be applied when 10% of plants have 
stink bugs just prior to ear shoot formation.  
COTTON:  Stink bugs have started entering a few cotton fields as the fruit
load increases.  They usually aren't a problem in cotton because Heliothis 
treatments keep them knocked back.  They can begin to build up during a lull 
between Heliothis generations at this time of year.  If a biological Heliothis 
program is being totally relied on stink bugs can sneak up on a grower and 
cause a great deal of yield loss.  Most of the pyrethroids aren't too hot on a 
heavy stink bug infestation.  Scout at 1 gal/19 acres does a good job.  Methyl 
parathion at .5 lb. A.I./acre is the most economical treatment.

SOYBEANS:  Green stink bugs are being found in bean fields but are no threat
until the first small pods form.  The treatment threshold is 1 per row foot.
                   FOLLOW UP ON "FISH HOOK CORN" PROBLEMS
                   Jay W. Chapin, Extension Entomologist

There have been a lot more calls on deformed corn.  The following are some of
the more common questions. 
 
There are varietal differences, and some of the Pioneer varieties have been 
hit hard.  There are several possible explanations including differences in 
maturity when stink bugs were present, differences in attractiveness, and 
differences in susceptibility to injury of the embryonic ear.  The first 
explanation is probably most likely.

Why is it worst in the lower part of the state?  Stink bug populations are
known to be more severe in the Southern Coastal Plain due to better over-
wintering conditions.  

If it's insect damage, why do the ears always bend out from the plant?
The outer surface of the embryonic ear is the only area the bug can
get access to with its mouthparts.
Couldn't it be herbicide, fertility, or environmentally related injury?
I don't think so.  If you check the field carefully you will find a
consistent pattern of more severe dammage on the edges which contradicts
the above explanations.  It is worst along wheat fields which are a good
source of stink bug infestation.

Should we spray for them?  Not now.  Any out there are feeding on individual
kernels at this point.  Control must be applied early, just prior to ear
development.  The threshold is 1 stink bug per 10 plants.

Will they be a problem next year?  Probably not nearly as severe as this 
year but if I was growing corn in the Lower Coastal Plain I'd sure check
the field edges next year.

Can I treat only the edges?  Yes, this has worked in large fields.  The 
border acts as a trap crop where the bugs can be eliminated early in the
year.
Additional information collected by Joe Zublena is as follows:
Last week, I spent alot of time in corn fields around the state looking
at damaged plants. The predominant damage was cresent shaped ears or
crooked shaped ears as described by Jay Chapin as stink bug damage. I
agreed with Jay that this is definately stink bug damage. In every field
that I saw with cresent shaped ears you could disect the ear and see
puncture marks in the shuck. This was particularly true in late planted
fields. The most convincing evidence that I saw was with Skip Younce in
Berkeley County. Skip and I went to a field that had two late planted
hybrids. One was at silking and the other was pre-silk. We saw damage
to the shucks of most plants. At this stage the ears are not large enough
to be visibly cresent shaped, however, the shuck damage corresponded to 
kernel damage when you shucked each ear. We also examined some plants that
did not have a visible ear on them. These plants had an ear shoot that
was about 1 inch long but still hidden by the ear leaf. When we disected 
these ears again, even the embryonic shucks had visible damage and the
small ear too. One ear had at least 4 puncture marks.
So what's the bottom line? Most of the damage we are seeing as cresent shaped 
ears are due to stink bug damage. The damage, however, is caused before we 
really see the ear shoot. As the ear increases in size, the degree of damage 
decreases because fewer kernel parts are damaged with each puncture. Early 
damage is like putting a mark on a balloon it doesn't look like much until it 
expands. When its full size its very obvious, but its a long way from the 
actual incidence. I talked to Julian Dixon from Pioneer Seed Co., he mentioned 
that they have had problems with stink bug at their Tifto Ga. Research Station 
for the last two years and have had to spray to control them. They have used 
one spray at early tassel emergence, and a second 7 to 10 days earlier. The 
importance of this is not the spray schedule to me, but that they recognize the
stage of development as being much earlier then we initially thought. Of the 
fields that I saw the degree of affected ears varied dramatically. Few fields 
ran as high as the 80 to 90 % that were being talked about. The edges in many 
fields were that bad or worse in some cases, however when you take the entire 
field into account, the actual incidence was closer to a max of 50 to 60 %. 
While the figures are high this does not mean that yields will be 50 to 60 % 
lower in these fields. The actual stink bug damage to yields is small. The key 
problem is the affect of secondary pests to the exposed ear that was caused by 
stink bugs. Secondary pests include all the ear rots and molds including A. 
flavus.  Next year we wiil definately have to keep our eyes open for the stink 
bug from pretassel through silking. 
           HOW CAN YOU DO ANYTHING ABOUT STINK BUG DAMAGE TO CORN
                   Jay W. Chapin, Extension Entomolgist

Once growers accept that stink bugs caused the corn deformity "fish hooking"
we have seen this year, their attitude seems to be that they couldn't afford to
do anything about it anyway.  This isn't so.

The most important thing to stress is that the worst injury occurs when the 
embryonic ear is less than 1" long.  In fact they must feed at this stage to 
cause significant injury.  Research has shown that you can put 6 stink bugs 
on a single ear without significant yield loss once silking begins.  Yet a 
single feeding puncture can cause severe damage at the vulnerable stage.  So 
if treatment is applied it must be done early as I stressed in a previous 
newsletter.  
 
Counties which had significant injury this year should stress checking
border rows two weeks prior to silking.  The most pratical guideline is to 
spot check fields once just prior to tassel emergence.

Treat immediately those areas which have 1 stink bug per 10 plants.  
In large fields only the borders (10 - 40 rows) will probably require an
insecticide.

What will it cost?  Methyl parathion .25 - .5 AI costs about .60 - $ 1.20 
per treated acre plus aerial application equals a total of about $ 4.00 per 
treated acre.  

In summary, even though corn profits are marginal or worse, stink bugs can 
be very economically managed. The biggest hurdles are convincing growers
what caused the damage, when it occurs, and getting those in high risk 
counties (Southern Coastal Plain) to spend an hour spot checking next year.
         POSSIBLE CANCELATION OF CHLORDIMEFORM (GALECRON, FUNDAL)
                 P. M. Horton, Extension Entomologist

EPA is considering canceling the registration of chlordimeform based on a
study that links bladder cancer in plant workers with the pesticide. An EPA
official did note that a clear-cut cause and effect were not established
since the workers were exposed to other chemicals in the plant. Chlordimeform
is registered under the trade names GALECRON and FUNDAL.
               	  NEW EFFORT TO AMEND FIFRA DURING 1987.
                   P. M. Horton, Extension Entomologist

At the closing minutes of last year's congress, attempts to amend the Federal
Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA) fell through. Early in this
year's session, capital hill speculation was that no effort would be made to
reintroduce similar legislation for 1987. However, on May 19, HR2463 was intro-
duced by Rep. Kika de la Garza (D-Texas) to amend FIFRA. FIFRA is the national 
law which regulates pesticides. HR2463 would extend the authority for EPA to
enforce FIFRA through 1992 and would make substantial changes in the currently
implemented version. Specific new areas addressed by this proposed legislation
are groundwater protection provisions, a clarification of procedures for state
registrations under special local needs, requirements for the identification
of potentially hazardous INERT ingredients, a strengthening  of the safeguards 
on the storage of canceled and suspended pesticides; and much broadened rules
on the training of pesticide users (to include mixers, handlers and others as
well as the primary applicators). A major new provision will direct EPA to
expedite the reregistration for all pesticides registered beforeNov.1,1984.
A major new provision will direct EPA to expedite the reregistration for all 
pesticides registered before Nov.1,1984.  The amendment will require all 
companies seeking reregistration for their products to pay a one-time fee of 
as much as $150,000, so we can expect to see the cost of pesticides continue 
to climb.

This amendment is likely to be favorably influenced by the recently released
NAS(Nat'l. Acad. of Sciences) report on pesticides in food. That report
strongly recommended that the DeLaney Amendment be eliminated in favor
of what is called a "negligible risk standard". The DeLaney clause requires
a zero tolerance (zero residue) for any pesticide (or other chemical) that is 
a suspected carcinogen (tumor producing chemical).  The negligible risk 
standard recommends EPA approval for any pesticide that causes no more than one
tumor per one million persons exposed. According to the NAS study, the DeLaney 
Clause only eliminates 50% of the cancer risk while impacting on the 
availability of new pesticides, whereas the negligible risk provision would 
eliminate 98% of the risk and at the same time allow more new products into the 
market. Both the National Agricultural Chemicals Association and the National 
Food Processors Association, as well as the National Farm Bureau Federation 
have endorsed the NAS Study and recommendation.
It is particularly interesting to note that the media has reacted to this
study by claiming that it reported that our food supply was at risk.  The
Chairmen of the NAS team who conducted the study stated "Consequently, our
findings do not show any food is unsafe, nor should they (the results) prompt
consumers to change teir eating habits."
                             KELTHANE CANCELLATION
                    Clyde S. Gorsuch, Extension Entomologist

Effective immediately, all dicofol products manufactured by the Rohm and Haas
Company under the trade name KELTHANE, and products formulated by other 
companies using KELTHANE, are cancelled.  USE, DISTRIBUTION, AND SALE OF THESE
PRODUCTS IS NOW PROHIBITED.

KELTHANE, in quantities of 1 gallon or more, must be disposed of at a licensed
hazardous waste Treatment, Storage, and Disposal (TSD) facility.  These are 
listed in a commercial telephone directory under a heading such as "Waste
Reduction, Disposal, and Recycling Service--Industrial."

Homeowners having products labeled for household use in quantities of less than
1 gallon may dispose of the material by wrapping it in paper and placing it in
the trash.
                             NEW INSECTICIDE LABELS
                    Clyde S. Gorsuch, Extension Entomologist 


VECTOBAC-AS and VECTOBAC-12AS are labeled for fungus gnat control on greenhouse 
grown ornamental plants.  VECTOBAC is a biological insecticide (B.t. H-14) and 
is extremely safe.  See label for specific directions.
                      POTATO LEAFHOPPERS INFESTING ALFALFA
                   Randall P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist

Several Upstate Counties have reported damaging infestations of POTATO 
LEAFHOPPERS in alfalfa.  This tiny light green insect which jumps when 
disturbed is a common cause of alfalfa yellowing.  The nymph or immature stage 
is light yellow and characteristically walks sideways.  Feeding by these 
insects causes severe stunting of the plants and yellowing or reddening of the 
foliage.  Leafhopper damage starts in a wedge-shaped area at the tip of the 
leaf.  The first cutting is not usually affected, but subsequent cuttings can 
be severely damaged.

Alfalfa growers in South Carolina may not be very familiar with potato 
leafhoppers since they have only been sporadic pests in the past.  If control 
is warranted, Lorsban 4E at 1 pint/acre is labeled for leafhopper control.  
There is a 14 day preharvest interval for Lorsban on alfalfa.
                    INSECT MANAGEMENT IN GRAIN STORAGE BINS
                      P. M. Horton, Extension Entomologist

Before storing this years wheat crop, farmers should make a special effort to 
prepare their storage bins properly. Basically this involves carefully cleaning 
out their bins and treating them with an appropriate insecticide. 

All trash and litter, including any leftover stored products from previous 
years, should be removed from the storage areas. The walls, floors, and if 
possible even the ceilings should be swept down. False and perforated floors 
should be removed if possible, and the space exposed  should be thoroughly 
cleaned. Particular attention should be given to cracks, crevices, and ledges 
as these are places stored product insects prefer to hide in. 

After cleaning thoroughly, bins should be sprayed to the point of runoff using 
one of the following insecticides: 

                 methoxychlor 50WP - 1#/3 gal water/1000 sq.ft.
                 methoxychlor 25EC - 1 qt/3 gal water/1000 sq.ft.
                 RELDAN 4E - 1/2 pt/6.5 gal water/6500 sq.ft.
The commodity being stored should be clean, not cracked, and with a low 
(preferably 12% or less) moisture content. 

A protectant should be applied as the grain is being put into the storage. It 
is very difficult to properly apply an insecticide after a grain bin is filled.
The following protectants are recommended for wheat: 

                 malathion 57% EC - 1 pt/2-5 gal water/1000 bu
                 RELDAN 4E - 11.5 oz/1-5 gal water/1000 bu
                 malathion 1% dust - 60 #/1000 bu.
                 (NOTE THAT DUST CAN CAUSE PRICE DOWNGRADING)!

Throughout the storage period, the grain should be inspected weekly for 
problems such as insects, fungi, and excess moisture.  Particular attention 
should be given to aeration and cooling of the grain, both to prevent insect 
and spoilage problems as well as to avoid moisture problems.
                PESTICIDE EMERGENCY RESPONSE INFORMATION CENTER
                      P. M. Horton, Extension Entomologist

NACA has discontinued its pesticide safety team network in order to 
avoid duplicating the work of CHEMTREC which is sponsered by the Chemical
Manufacturers Assn. CHEMTREC provides a 24 hour emergency response infor-
mation center. help in handling chemical spills and other accidental chemical
releases can be obtained by anyone by calling CHEMTREC at: 

                           1-800-424-9300.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CABBAGE LOOPER                                 
-DOC-
                                 CABBAGE LOOPER
                   Randall P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
 
DESCRIPTION:  Adult moths are a general grayish-brown color, about an inch 
long, with a wingspan of nearly 1 1/2 inches.  The mottled brownish front wings 
have a small silvery spot near the middle, somewhat resembling a figure 8.  The 
larvae are greenish and approximately one inch long.  The body tapers to the 
head.  There is a thin but conspicuous white line along each side of the body 
and two others near the middle line of the back.  The larvae has two pair of 
abdominal prolegs.  The eggs are round, greenish white, and laid singly on the 
upper surface of leaves.  The pupae stage is greenish to brown, nearly 3/4 inch 
long, and wrapped in a delicate cocoon of white tangled threads attached by one 
side usually to a leaf of the plant on which the larvae fed. 
 
HOSTS:  Cabbage loopers attack all members of the cabbage family - broccoli, 
Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, kohlrabi, mustard, 
radish, and turnips.  They also feed on beet, celery, lettuce, parsley, pea, 
potato, spinach, and tomato.
INJURY:  All injury is by the larval or caterpillar stage of this insect.  The 
first-formed leaves of cabbage and related plants are usually riddled with 
large holes of irregular shape and size.  If the leaves are parted, masses of 
greenish to brown pellets (the excrement of the worms) are found caught in the 
angles of the leaves.  So much of the leaf tissue is generally devoured by 
these worms that the growth of the plants is seriously interfered with.
 
LIFE HISTORY:  The cabbage looper overwinters as a pupa.  These pupae transform 
in the spring to the adult moth.  The adults are nocturnal and much less 
conspicuous about the fields than other butterflies.  The females lay between 
275 to 350 eggs.  The larvae feed from 2-4 weeks and pupate.  The adults emerge 
from the cocoons in about 2 weeks.  There may be 3 or more generations per
year, the number of worms usually increasing with each generation.
 
CONTROL:  Microbial insecticides containing Bacillus thuringiensis are very 
effective in controlling cabbage loopers.  They are also susceptible to 
naturally occuring pathogenic diseases that usually occur during periods of 
wet, humid weather.  Consult the Clemson University Agricultural Chemicals 
Handbook for specific control recommendations.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STINK BUGS                                    
-DOC-
                                   STINK BUGS 
                   Randall P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
 
DESCRIPTION:  Adults of both the Green and Southern Green Stink Bugs are large, 
shield shaped, bright green bugs.  They are approximately 5/8 inch long.  
Nymphs are similar to adults but they lack wings.  Eggs are pinkish, barrel 
shaped and laid in clusters on the underside of leaves on the host plant.  
Stink bugs have piercing, sucking mouth parts.  They also can emit a very 
disagreeable odor.
 
HOSTS:  Stink bugs are found on many vegetable crops.  Adults are active fliers 
and readily move into vegetable crops from other hosts.  Their host range 
includes cucurbits, cole crops, legumes (beans, etc.), potatoes, sweet 
potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, okra, and corn.  Stink bugs possibly 
prefer snap or lima beans or tomatoes to any other vegetable crop.
INJURY: Stink bugs attack all plant parts, but particularly young tender growth 
and fruit.  Injury to snap or lima beans causes pods to fall from the plants or 
causes severely distorted and shriveled seeds.  Injury to maturing tomatoes 
cause small whitish spots on and under the skin of the fruit.  Many vegetables 
are severely distorted, with hard calluses formed around the feeding punctures.
 
LIFE HISTORY:  Stink bugs overwinter in the adult stage, usually in well 
drained, sunny locations.  During the spring and early summer, they occur on 
wild hosts as well as some early vegetable crops.  Later populations cause most 
of the damage where adults and nymphs feed extensively.  Populations reach 
their highest levels during September and early October.  Overwintered adults 
begin laying eggs usually in April and there are from 2-4 generations per year 
with each generation lasting approximately 35-38 days.
CONTROL:  Cleaning up weeds around the vegetables may be an important cultural 
control method.  Treatment should only be applied to those crops listed on the 
pesticide label.  The nymph stage of this insect is easier to control than the 
adult.  Consult the Clemson University Agricultural Chemicals Handbook for 
specific control recommendations.
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MEXICAN BEAN BEETLE                               
-DOC-
                              MEXICAN BEAN BEETLE 
                   Randall P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
 
DESCRIPTION AND LIFE HISTORY:  This insect passes the winter only in the adult 
stage, occurring on the ground among leaves and other rubbish, sometimes in 
groups, especially in woodland and hedgerows, near the fields where beans were 
grown.  The beetles are from 1/4 to 1/3 inch long, very convex, short ovate in 
outline, and from yellow to coppery-brown in color.  Each wing cover has eight 
small black spots that form three rows across the body when the wings are at 
rest.  The general appearance is similar to that of our common beneficial lady 
beetles but it is larger than most of them.  Some of the beetles appear in 
gardens and fields of beans about the time the earliest garden beans are coming 
up from the seed, while others continue to straggle out of winter quarters for 
nearly 2 months.  After feeding a week or two on the beans, the adults deposit 
eggs on the underside of the leaves.  These are about 1/20 inch long, orange- 
yellow in color, and fastened on end in close groups of 40 or 50 or more.  The 
eggs hatch in 5 to 14 days, depending on the temperature, and the larvae feed 
from 2 to 5 weeks.  When full-grown, they are 1/3 inch or more in length by 
half as broad, are oval, are yellow, and have their backs protected by six rows 
of long branching black-tipped spines.  
When growth is completed, the larvae cement the hinder part of their bodies to 
the underside of uninjured leaves of beans or other plants, often gathering in 
groups.  The pupa pushes out of the larval skin crowding it back to the tip of 
the abdomen, which remains covered with this spiny wrinkled skin.  The exposed 
part of the pupa is nearly bare, smooth, orange-yellow, and rounded in front.  
The adult emerges in about 10 days and may lay eggs for the second generation 
within 2 weeks more.  From egg to adult occupies about a month.  There may be 
three or even four partial generations per year. 
 
HOSTS:  All kinds of garden beans and cowpeas, soybeans, and beggar-tick.  It 
has been most injurious to garden and field beans and occasionally to soybeans 
and cowpeas.  In cases of extreme infestation, alfalfa, clovers, vetch, and 
some grasses and weeds are fed upon.  
INJURY:  This insect is a serious enemy of all kinds of snap beans and lima 
beans.  It varies greatly in the same area according to weather and other 
factors affecting it.  It may cause heavy damage one season and be very 
difficult to find the next year.  Both larvae and adults feed on the leaves, 
usually on the undersurface.  They eat out somewhat regular areas, leaving 
slender parallel strips of untouched leaf between them, giving the plants a 
characteristic lace-like skeletonized appearance.  The plants may be shredded 
and dried out so that they die within a month after the attack begins, often 
before any crop is matured.
 
CONTROL:  Mexican bean beetles are parasitized by a tiny wasp called Pediobius 
foveolatus.  They can be very efficient in keeping the beetles under control.  
If an insecticide is needed, consult the Clemson University Agricultural 
Chemicals Handbook for control recommendations.
    
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN EARWORM                                 
-DOC-
                                 CORN EARWORM
                  Randall P. Griffin, Extension Entomologist
 
DESCRIPTION AND LIFE HISTORY:  In S.C. this insect passes the winter in the 
form of a brown pupa, which will be found from 2 to 6 inches below the surface 
of the soil.  In the spring and early summer, moths emerge from these pupae and 
crawl up exit holes which the larvae prepared before pupating.  The moths have 
a wing expanse of about 1 1/2 inches.  They vary in color, the average having 
the front wings of a light grayish brown, marked with dark-gray irregular 
lines and with a dark area near the tip of the wing.  The irregular lines 
often shade into an olive-green.  The hind wings are white with some dark 
spots or irregular dark markings.
The moths fly during warm cloudy days, but mainly at dusk of the evening.  
They feed on the nectar of many flowers and, during the warm evenings, 
deposit their eggs on the plants in which the larvae feed.  Each moth will lay 
from 500 to as many as 3,000 eggs, the average being probably over 1,000.  
These eggs are laid singly and are of a hemispherical shape with ridges along 
their sides resembling very much a peeled orange.  They are whitish, about 
half as large as a common pinhead.  The early generations feed in the whorl of 
young corn plants and on tomatoes, cotton, tobacco, beans, and legumes.  Fresh 
corn silk is one of the favorite places for egg-laying of the moths of the 
later generations.  The eggs hatch in three days.  The worms vary greatly in 
color from a light green or pink to brown or nearly black and are lighter on 
the underparts.  They are marked with alternating light and dark stripes 
running lengthwise on the body.  The stripes are not always the same on 
different individuals, but there is usually a double mid-dorsal dark line the 
length of the body.  The head is yellow and unspotted, and the legs are dark or 
nearly black.  The skin of the insect is somewhat coarse and, when looked at 
under a magnifying glass, shows many small thorn-like projections.  They feed 
for 2 to 4 weeks, molting 5 times.  
On becoming full-grown the larvae crawl down the plant or drop to the ground, 
into which they burrow and excavate a small smooth-walled cell, commonly 3 to 5 
inches deep, where they pupate, coming out as moths again after another period 
of 10 to 25 days, although this period may be prolonged during cold weather.  
They are cannibalistic and usually only one full-grown worm is found in each 
ear of fruit.  There are from two to three generations of the insect each 
season. 
 
HOSTS:  The corn earworm is a very general feeder, attacking many cultivated 
crops and weeds.  It is seriously injurious to sweet corn as well as field 
corn, tomato, beans, okra, cole crops, and on occasion many other vegetable 
crops.  It also is a serious pest of tobacco and cotton.  It has been given the 
name corn earworm, tomato fruitworm, cotton bollworm, and soybean podworm.
INJURY:  Corn attacked by the corn earworm will show the ears with masses of 
moist castings at the end, and the kernels, especially about the tip of the 
ear, eaten down to the cob by the larvae.  The presence of the worms in ears of 
sweet corn is most repulsive to consumers and very troublesome to commercial 
canners.  The injured tips of the sweet corn can be cut off of corn grown for 
home use.  Corn earworms typically gnaw their way into the fruit of tomatoes, 
eggplants, etc. or into the pods of lima or snap beans or okra.  Corn earworms 
are the most damaging insects that feed on vegetable or field crops in S.C.
 
CONTROL:  Consult the Clemson University Agricultural Chemicals Handbook for 
specific control recommendations.    
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SULFITE LEVELS IN FOODS                            
-DOC-
                            SULFITE LEVELS IN FOODS
                    John G. Surak, Extension Food Scientist 

Sulfiting agents (sodium sulfite, sodium and potassium bisulfite, sodium and 
potassium metabisulfite, or sulfur dioxide) are widely use in processed food 
because they prevent spoilage, prevent growth of harmful bacteria, and 
maintain nutritional value. 

Concern has been raised about the use of sulfite compounds in foods.  Currently 
in the United States, there are about 9,000,000 asthmatics.  Out of this group 
20% or about 1,800,000 individuals must use steroids to control the asthma.  
Studies at the University of Wisconsin indicate that 8.5% of the steroid 
dependent asthmatics and 0.8% of the non-steroid dependent asthmatics are 
sensitive to sulfites.  Therefore, there may be about 208,000 sulfite sensitive 
individuals in the United States.  
The amount of sulfite which can trigger as asthmatic reaction in a sulfite 
sensitive individual varies from person-to-person.  Very sensitive individuals 
may react after eating 3 mg of FREE sulfite (or eating 2.1 oz of a food which 
contains 50 parts per million of FREE sulfite).  In contrast, a sulfite 
sensitive individual with a high tolerance to sulfites may not experience a 
reaction until aftereating 120 mg of FREE sulfites (or 5.3 lbs of a food 
containing 50 parts per million of FREE sulfites).  A physician must determine 
the level of sensitivity in any sulfite sensitive individual.  

Sulfite-sensitive asthmatics need to be concerned about the sulfite levels in 
foods.  Foods which contain high levels of sulfites include dried fruit 
(excluding dark raisins and prunes), non-frozen lemon and lime juice, wine, 
molasses, and sauerkraut.  The following tables list typical sulfite levels in 
foods (Table 1)  Table 2 lists foods which contain moderate levels of sulfites 
and Table 3 lists foods which contain low levels of sulfites.  

Note: 1 ppm is one part in one million which is equlivant to1 drop of water in 
16 gallons.	 Source of information: Assoc. Food Drug Quart. Bull. 49: 185 
(1985).  
                                    Table 1
         Foods Which Typically Contain More Than 100 ppm Total Sulfite
                                                      Total Sulfite in ppm
Dried fruit, excluding dark raisins and prunes                  1200
Non-frozen lemon juice                                          800
Non-frozen lime juice                                           160
Wine                                                            150
Molasses                                                        125
Sauerkraut juice                                                100
                                    Table 2
       Foods Which Typically Contain Between 11 and 99 ppm Total Sulfite  
                                                      Total Sulfite in ppm
Dried potatoes                                               35 - 90
Grape juice                                                     85
Wine vinegar                                                    75
Gravies and sauces                                              75
Fruit topping                                                   60
Maraschino cherries                                             50
Pectin                                                      <10 - 50
Fresh shrimp                                                <10 - 40
Corn syrup                                                      30
Sauerkraut                                                      30
Pickled peppers                                                 30
Pickled cocktail onions                                         30
Pickles and  relish                                             30
Corn starch                                                     20
Hominy                                                          20
Frozen potatoes                                                 20
Maple syrup                                                     20
Imported jellies and jams                                       14
                                    Table 3
          Foods Which Typically Contain Less Than 11 ppm Total Sulfite  
                                                      Total Sulfite in ppm
Malt vinegar                                                    10
Dried cod                                                       10
Canned potatoes                                                 10
Beer                                                            10
Dry soup mix                                                   <10
Soft drinks                                                    <10
Instant tea                                                    <10
Frozen pizza dough                                             <10
Pie dough                                                      <10
Sugar                                                            7
Gelatin                                                          6.6
Coconut                                                          5
Domestic jams and jellies                                        5
Crackers                                                         5
Cookies                                                          5
Grapes                                                         1 - 5
High fructose corn syrup                                         3

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SULFITE LABELING IN MEAT AND POULTRY PRODUCTS                  
-DOC-
                 SULFITE LABELING IN MEAT AND POULTRY PRODUCTS 
                    John G. Surak, Extension Food Scientist 

Processed foods which contains meat and/or poultry are regulated by the U. S. 
Department of Agriculture, or Clemson University Meat and Poultry Inspection 
Division.  Federal and South Carolina regulations prohibit the direct addition 
of sulfites to processed meat and poultry products.  Therefore, the only way 
sulfites can gain access to these products is indirectly through an addition of 
a non-meat or non-poultry ingredient.  

After July 9, l987, the labels of all processed meat or poultry item must 
contain a sulfite label declaration if the sulfite concentration in the final 
product is 10 parts per million or greater.  When the product is comprised of 
multiple-separable components; e.g., TV-type dinners, sulfite labeling will be 
required if any separable component has a sulfite level of 10 parts per million 
or more.  

The label must contain the specific chemical name of the sulfiting agent or the 
term "sulfiting agent" or "sulfiting agents."  The declaration must appear in 
the ingredient statement in order of prominence or at the end of the ingredient 
statement.  If the sulfites are labeled at the end of the ingredient list the 
following statement must be used:  "This product contains sulfiting agents (or 
the specific chemical name or names)."  





-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CAREER OPPORTUNITIES IN FOOD SCIENCE                      
-DOC-
                      CAREER OPPORTUNITIES IN FOOD SCIENCE
           Woodie P. Williams, Jr., Head, Department of Food Science

YOUR PLACE IN FOOD SCIENCE

If you enjoy science and are good at it, there are many opportunities for you 
in a career in food science.  Food science graduates are important participants 
in the world's largest industry, the food industry.  They apply the principles 
of chemistry, microbiology, engineering, nutrition, economics and other basic 
and applied sciences to the production, processing, evaluation and distribution 
of foods.  

Food scientists address a variety of problems.  In less developed countries 
they may work to decrease food shortages, to improve the nutritional level of 
diets, and to increase food production.  In technically developed nations, they 
may apply their scientific skills to provide a variety of new and improved food 
products.  In addition, they continually monitor the safety and quality of food 
products.  The world population continues to grow, and the need for food and 
food scientists will be even more critical.	 
THE FOOD INDUSTRY IN SOUTH CAROLINA	

Food is big business in South Carolina; even more opportunities may be found 
nationwide. and worldwide.  The annual value of the food industry to South 
Carolina is over a billion dollars.  The food manufacturing component includes 
over 350 companies that process and package a wide variety of products from 
seafood, meats, eggs and poultry products to candy, wines, and military 
rations.  In addition,  the food industry in South Carolina includes a large 
food distribution and marketing network, as well as a major food service 
industry. 

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES FOR GRADUATES IN FOOD SCIENCE

A degree in food science can open doors to many careers.  Food industries, 
educational institutions, analytical laboratories, and government agencies 
employ graduates who also provide the major technical support in the food 
processing industry.  No one is more directly concerned with the industry's 
high standards of quality, new manufacturing methods, new preservation 
techniques, and new packaging materials.  Application of this knowledge in 
chemistry, microbiology, engineering and other basic and applied sciences 
plays an important part is ensuring the flavor, color, texture, nutritional 
value and safety of foods.	
The various branches of the federal government offer numerous job opportunities 
for the food technologists.  Positions exist in many different areas including 
chemical, microbiological, food safety, and basic food research at technical 
and administrative levels.

THE CURRICULUM IN FOOD SCIENCE

Clemson University offers the only Bachelor of Science degree program in Food 
Science in South Carolina.  During the first two years of the program students 
complete courses in biology, chemistry, physics, mathematics and English.  To 
broaden their education, courses in history, fine arts, humanities and social 
sciences must be completed.  Food science courses comprise 30 of the 134 
semester hours required for graduation.  Taken by juniors and seniors in the 
curriculum, these courses include food engineering, and food packaging.  
Required additional courses include food and dairy microbiology, statistics, 
economics and nutrition.  Food science majors select a minor (fifteen hours of 
course work) in business, enviromental science, international agricultural 
science or a second department in the College of Agricultural Sciences which 
are compatible with their career goals and interests.	 
CONTACT

Dr. Woodie P. Williams, Jr., Head
Department of Food Science
223 Poole Agricultural Center
Clemson University
Clemson, SC 29634-0371

(803) 656-3397






-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CAREER OPPORTUNITIES IN PACKAGING SCIENCE                   
-DOC-
                   CAREER OPPORTUNITIES IN PACKAGING SCIENCE
           Woodie P. Williams, Jr., Head, Department of Food Science

YOUR PLACE IN PACKAGING SCIENCE

If you have an interest in applying basic principles of science and engineering 
to solving problems encountered in daily life, and you are a creative person 
with imagination and drive, there are many career opportunities awaiting you in 
packaging.  Packaging scientists play an important role in the ever increasing 
packaging industry, the third largest industry in the USA.

Packaging scientists apply principles of chemistry, physics, mathematics, 
microbiology, engineering, machines, marketing/business management, computer 
science, and art and design.  They design, develop, manufacture, test and 
evaluate, and market packages for food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic, 
electronics and other industrial products.
Packaging scientists address a variety of problems related to protection, 
preservation, distribution and marketing of nearly every product.  Packaging is 
making possible the incredible distribution system that makes so many products 
available throughout the world today.  In many developing countries, where 
hunger is a severe problem, a large percentage of the crops harvested decay or 
otherwise spoil before the foodstuffs can reach the public because of a lack of 
food processing and packaging techniques.  Challenges and a variety of careers 
await the individual with an undergraduate degree in Packaging Science.	 

THE PACKAGING INDUSTRY IN SOUTH CAROLINA

South Carolina has a large packaging industry composed of packaging suppliers, 
and packaging users.  The suppliers produce plastic films, pouches, bottles, 
and jars, glass containers, metal containers, composite containers and 
corrugated shipping containers.  The user are the food processors, drug and 
cosmetic manufactures, automotive and electronic industries, and many others 
who must package the products they produce.  One of the largest users of 
packaging materials is the food industry.  The annual volume of packaging 
materials produced in South Carolina is well over 2 billion dollars with food 
packaging being a large segment of the total.  The annual value of packaged 
foods in South Carolina is estimated to be in excess of 1 billion dollars.
CAREER OPPORTUNITIES FOR GRADUATES IN PACKAGING SCIENCE

A degree in packaging science can open doors to many career opportunities.  
Packaging suppliers, including industries that manufacture food, 
pharmaceuticals, industrial goods, and military supplies are primary employers 
of packaging science graduates.  Employment opportunities in packaging science 
have been excellent for many years and are predicted to be excellent in the 
future.  One reason for this is the fact that packaging is a very broad field, 
there are many different types of jobs.  The person with a broad packaging 
education, complemented with science (chemistry, physics, mathematics, food 
science, mircobiology, computer science), engineering, business, and graphic 
arts can fine employment in virtually any industry in the United States and 
abroad in all sizes of companies, from small family-owned meat packaging 
plants to multinational corporations.

THE CURRICULUM IN PACKAGING SCIENCE

During the first two years of the program, students complete courses in 
chemistry, mathematics, physics, biology, and English as well as introductory 
courses in packaging science.  To broaden their education, courses in history, 
fine arts, humanities, and social sciences are also required.
The program is interdisciplinary in nature, utilizing existing courses is the 
sciences, engineering, architecture, food science, business, graphics 
communications and others.  Students have a choice of two areas of emphasis:  
food packaging and general packaging.  Emphasis in food packaging contains some 
food science courses in addition to the packaging science courses and 
background courses.  The emphasis in general packaging has fewer food science 
courses and more engineering, business and graphic communication courses.  Both 
have a common first year and available electives, allowing students to take 
courses in other departments to fulfill their career goals and interests.
                                                                         
CONTACT

Dr. Woodie P. Williams, Jr., Head
Department of Food Science
223 Poole Agricultural Center
Clemson University
Clemson, SC 29634-0371

(803) 656-3397

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SULFITE LABELING IN PROCESSED FOODS                       
-DOC-
                      SULFITE LABELING IN PROCESSED FOODS 
                    John G. Surak, Extension Food Scientist 

The Food And Drug Administration further defined regulations (Federal 
Regulations 51 (131) 25012 (1986)) governing the labeling of sulfites (sulfur 
dioxide, sodium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, potassium bisulfite, sodium 
metabisulfite or potassium metabisulfite) in processed foods.  

All regulations requiring label declaration of sulfiting agents when the 
compound is added as a direct food additive or when the compound is added 
indirectly and has a functional effect have NOT changed 
	
The FDA requires a label declaration of "sulfiting agents" or the name of the 
actual sulfiting agent when the following occur:
     1.  The sulfiting agent is added indirectly to the product.
     2.  The sulfiting agent does not have a functional effect in the food.
     3.  The level of total sulfites is less than or equal to 10 parts per	
         million as measured by the modified Monier-Williams assay (Federal 
         Register 51 (131) 25017.
When  choosing  term  the "sulfiting  agent," the processor must be able to 
defend to the FDA that the sulfiting agent  does  NOT have a functional effect 
in the finished product. 
A label declaration is not required when the sulfites are added to fresh fruits 
and vegetables which will be sold to another food processor, if the following 
occurs: 
     1.  The produce is to be processed, labeled, or repackaged 
     2.  Written documents exist between the supplier and receiver which 
         provide the necessary information for proper labeling.
However, the manufacturer of the final product is legally responsible for the 
accuracy of the label.

A label declaration is not required when the preservative is added to the 
processed food and the total sulfite level is less than 10 parts per million in 
the final packaged food as measured by the modified Monier-Williams assay.  
This is provided that the preservative does not have a functional effect in 
the food. 

A label declaration is not required when the sulfites are added to fresh fruits 
and vegetables which will be sold to another food processor to be processed, 
labeled or repackaged.  The following must occur.  Written documents exist  
between the supplier and the receiver which provide all necessary information 
for proper labeling.  However, the manufacturer of the final product is legally 
responsible for the accuracy of the label.  
If a product contains both a sulfite which has a functional effect in the
food and a sulfite which does not have a functional effect in the food, the FDA 
requires only a label declaration of the name of the actual sulfite compound 
which has the  functional effect in the food.  In this case, the term 
"sulfiting agent" does not have to appear on the label.  

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SULFITE LABELING IN WINE AND BEER                       
-DOC-
                       SULFITE LABELING IN WINE AND BEER
                    John G. Surak. Extension Food Scientist 

The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms (BATF) issued the following 
regulations (Federal Regulations 51 (250) 47240 (1986)) governing sulfite 
labeling in wine and beer: 

    1.  All labels submitted for approval must comply with the sulfite
        labeling regulations.
    2.  Products bottled after July 9, 1987, must comply with the sulfite
        labeling regulations.
    3.  Products which are shipped from the manufacture's premises after
        January 9, 1988, must comply with the sulfite labeling regulations.

Any alcoholic beverage which contains at least 10 parts per million sulfites 
must carry one of the following statements:  "contains sulfites," "contains 
sulfiting agents," or "contains a sulfiting agent."  The sulfite declaration 
can appear on a neck label, strip label, or a back label. The labeling of the 
free sulfite level is permitted if it is proceeded by the total sulfite level.  
The levels declared are the levels measured just before bottling. 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FOOD SCIENCE EXTENSION PUBLICATION                       
-DOC-
                       FOOD SCIENCE EXTENSION PUBLICATION
                  John G. Surak, Extension Food Scientist and
                    Terry C. Titus, Extension Food Scientist 

BULLETINS AVAILABLE THROUGH THE COUNTY EXTENSION OFFICE OR THROUGH PUBLIC 
SERVICE PUBLICATIONS, DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURAL COMMUNICATIONS (BULLETIN
ROOM)

BULLETINS
  SB 620
  Tasty Apple Chips Production by the Osmosis-Dehydration and Oven-Drying 
  Process.
  J. C. Jen and E. S. Halpin

CIRCULARS

  EC 591
  Emergency Preparedness: Three-Day Meal Kit.  (revised).
  T. C. Titus, and R. J. Dafler.
  EC 552
  Making and Preserving Sauerkraut at Home.    
  T. C. Titus, C. M. Cody and S. F. Barefoot.  
FN LEAFLETS	

  FNL 41
  Home canning Pressure Method:  Time Table for 15 Lbs. Pressure.  
  R. J. Davis, and T. C. Titus.    

INFORMATION LEAFLETS

  Info. L. 23
  FRIFC FACTS:  Commerically Canning Pickled Foods (Acidified Foods).
  T. C. Titus.

  Info. L. 24
  FRIFC FACTS:  Commerically Canning Low-Acid Foods (Vegetables and Seafoods).
  T. C. Titus.          
  Info. L. 25 
  FRIFC FACTS:  Commerically Canning Acid Foods (Fruits, Jams, Jellies, 
  Preserves, Dressings and Sauces).
  T. C. Titus.


EXTENSION BULLETINS AVAILABLE THROUGH THE DEPARTMENT OF FOOD SCIENCE	
Contact either:
    John G. Surak,  (803) 656-2786
                   or
    Terry C. Titus, (803) 656-3399

TRAINING MANUALS

  The Handlers. Cooperative Extension Service Sanitation Training Manual.	  
  T. C. Titus.
MISCELLANEOUS SERIES 

  Number 5
  Model:  Product Recall Program for Food Processors. 
  T. C. Titus, and R. J. Dafler.

  Number 6
  Potential for Commercial Production, Marketing and Canned/Frozen Processing 
  in South Carolina.
  D. O. Ezell, P. J. Rathwell, and T. C. Titus.

  Number 7
  A Survey of Utilization and Specification of Fresh (unprocessed) Fruit and 
  Vegetable Commodities and Pre-processed Food Commodities of Importance to the 
  South Carolina Food Processing Industry.  
  T. C. Titus.

  Number 8
  Control of Listeria in the Dairy Plant.
  J. G. Surak, and S. F. Barefoot.
  Number 9
  Sulfites in Foods.
  J. G. Surak.

FOOD SCIENCE INFORMATION LEAFLETS	

  Number 1
  Labeling of Sulfites in Processed Foods.
  J. G. Surak, and T. C. Titus.

  Number 2
  Sulfite Replacement for Salad Bar Items.
  J. G. Surak.

  Number 3
  Use and Typical Levels of Sulfites in Food.
  J. G. Surak.

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SULFITES - BAN FOR THE USE ON FRESH FRUITS AND VEGETABLES           
-DOC-
           SULFITES - BAN FOR THE USE ON FRESH FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
                    John G. Surak, Extension Food Scientist 

The Food And Drug Administration issued regulations (Federal Regulations 51 
(131) 25021 (1986)) banning the use of sulfiting agents (sulfur dioxide, sodium 
sulfite, sodium bisulfite, potassium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, potassium 
metabisulfite) on fresh fruits and vegetables which will be served, sold or 
presented directly to consumers.  

Food Service operators are prohibited from using sulfiting agents to treat 
fresh cut fruits and vegetables.  In addition, frozen or fresh fruits or 
vegetables such as guacamole can not be treated with sulfites.  However, 
implementation of this ban does not have to result in the rapid wilting and 
browning of salad bar items.  Food Service operators can replace the sulfiting 
agents in dip solutions with either food grade mixtures of citric acid and 
ascorbic acid of citric acid and erythrobic acid.  When used according to 
manufactures directions, the compounds can effectively inhibit browning and 
wilting of salad bar items.  

Table 1 (on the next four) provides a list of sulfite substitutes. 
                                  TABLE 1 
                              SULFITE SUBSTITUTES

CE-101-P and CE-51-S
    Pfizer Chemical Division, Groton, CT 06340 
    203-441-5100

CRISP'N FRESH
    Sugar Foods Corp., New York, NY 10006-2998
    212-425-3900

FLAVOR BRITE
    Batterlite-Whitlock, Springfield, IL 62708
    217-528-5621	

FRESH WAY
    Disco, Inc., Atlanta, Ga 30316	
    404-758-0096	

FRUIT-FRESH
    Beecham Products, Pittsburg, PA 15230-1467
    412-928-1050
                              TABLE 1, Contd
POTATO FRESH
Arga-Research, West Lafayette, IN 47906
317-463-2883

POTATO WHITNER
    Flavorite Laboratories, Inc. Memphis, TN 38101
    601-393-3610	

PRODUCE FRESHENER
    Diamond Crystal Salt Co., Wilmington, MA 01887
    800-225-0592

SALAD CRISP
    First Food Co. Dallas, TX 75247
    800-527-1866 or 214-637-0214

SALAD FRESH
    CFS Continental, Inc., Chicago, IL 60614
    312-477-7600
                                 TABLE 1, Contd
SALAD FRESH
    Spice & Seasoning Div., Ingredient Technology Corp., Detroit, MI 48234
    313-365-4900

STAY FRESH (WITHOUT SULFITES)
    Creasent Manufacturing Co., Seattle, WA 98124
    800-426-0690 or 202-623-7140

STA-WHITE, SULFITE FREE
    Farmers Brothers, Torrance, CA 90502
    213-320-1212

VEG-O-READY TYPE II
    Nugget Food Distribution, Inc.
    through Dean Distributors, Burlingame, CA 94010  
    800-227-3112 or 415-340-3112
                                 TABLE 1, Contd
WHITEN-ALL No. 2
    The Langlois Co., Los Angeles, CA 90040
    213-685-7440

SOURCE: National Restaurant Association, Washington, DC, June 1, 1986.

NOTE:  This information is supplied with the understanding that no 
discrimination is intended or no product endorsement by the Clemson University 
Extension Service is implied.


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APPLE FERTILIZATION                            
-DOC-
                            APPLE FERTILIZATION
                  John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     FERTILIZATION (PER TREE) - The following amounts are suggested for the 
first 5 years:
 
     First Year          1 lb 10-10-10 and 1/8 lb ammonium nitrate
 
     Second Year         2 lb 10-10-10 and 1/4 lb ammonium nitrate
 
     Third Year          3 lb 10-10-10 and 3/8 lb ammonium nitrate
 
     Fourth Year         4 lb 10-10-10 and 1/2 lb ammonium nitrate
 
     Fifth Year          5 lb 10-10-10 and 3/4 lb ammonium nitrate
     After trees reach bearing age, apply only a complete fertilizer, 10-10-
10.  Usually 2 to 3 pounds of fertilizer per inch of diameter of the tree 
just above the soil line is adequate.  However, the best determination of 
the fertilizer needs of the tree is indicated by the terminal growth and the 
number and size of the leaves on a bearing spur.  The terminal growth should 
be maintained at an average of 15 to 18 inches in length and there should be 
a minimum of eight good leaves on each bearing spur.
 
     On nonbearing trees, apply fertilizer in a circle at least 1 foot away 
from the trunk of the tree.  On bearing trees, fertilizer can be broadcast; 
however, on individual trees broadcast the fertilizer under and just beyond 
the limbspread of the tree.  
 
     Take soil samples every 2 or 3 years and apply limestone as indicated 
to maintain a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
     Certain minor elements are not present in adequate quantities in soils 
in which trees are planted.  The most common of these minor elements are 
magnesium and boron.  If a good liming program is practiced to maintain pH 
to an optimum, magnesium deficiency is usually no problem.  However, borax 
should be applied every other year at the rate of 1 ounce per inch of 
diameter of the tree trunk.  An adequate level of boron in the soil can also 
be maintained through the annual use of fertilizer containing as much as 12 
to 15 pounds of borax per ton.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TURF NURSERIES                               
-DOC-
                               TURF NURSERIES
           Landon C. Miller, Professor and Extension Horticulturist
 
          In South Carolina, there are now slightly over 2000 acres 
     of centipede in production plus 100 acres of turf-type tall fescue 
     and over 3000 acres of other cultivars for a statewide total of 
     approximately 5600 acres.  The centipede market may be saturated.  
     The fescue market and production can be expanded, especially in the 
     I-85 corridor from Charlotte to Atlanta and I-26 corridor west into 
     Knoxville. 
 
          Centipedegrass sod growers should order seed early for planting 
     next spring and summer.  Fescue sod growers need to order seed for 
     planting in September.
 
          Sod plugs are beginning to become popular at garden centers for 
     do-it-yourself gardeners.  One nursery in South Carolina is producing 
     sod plugs.  Many plugs are coming into South Carolina from Florida.
          Many of the present sod farms are expanding acreage in spring 
     and summer 1987.  These include 3M Turf, Palmetto Turf, Nimmer Turf 
     Farm, Ravenswood Plantation, and Super Sod Carolina in South 
     Carolina.  Carolina Turf is expanding into South Carolina with 300 
     acres in Kingstree.  Plantersville Sod Nursery (new), Georgetown, is 
     growing 300 acres of three grasses.  A new bermuda nursery in Santee 
     is planting 110 acres in mid-summer 1987 for marketing in Atlanta.
     
          With the combination of present and expanded acreage this 
     summer, there will be at least 6000 acres in production by the end of 
     the summer.  Centipede will cover at least 2000 acres of the total.  
 
          New producers are strongly encouraged to investigate and 
     establish a market before planting.  Over production could be 
     disastrous.  Let us not destroy the goose that laid the golden egg. 
                                                        Revised 12/14/87
 
                                 TURF NURSERIES 
 
SOUTH CAROLINA
 
ARANT NURSERIES                   (803)  672-2180        Centipede
Pageland, SC  29728
Contact:  Juanita Arant
 
BRUNSONS NURSERY                  (803)  495-2391        Centipede
Route 1, Box 284                         495-8080        St. Augustine
Alcolu, SC  29001
Contact:  John Brunson
 
CAROLINA FRESH                    Farm:                  Centipede
P.O. Box 120                      (803)  263-4637
Neeses, SC  29107                 Sales at State Farmers
Contact:  John A. Fogle           Mkt: (803)  797-5844     
CAROLINA TURF FARMS               (803)  426-4040        Emerald Zoysia
Route 2, Box 42                                          Raleigh St. Augustine
Greeleyville, SC  29056                                  Turf Type fescue
Contact:  Billy Bruorton                                 Tifway bermuda
                                                         Tifgreen bermuda
                                                         Tifway II bermuda
                                                         Tifgreen II bermuda
                                                         Centipede
 
COASTAL SOD NURSERY               (803)  347-4478        Tifgreen (328)
Route 6, Box 310                                         Tifdwarf
Conway, SC  29526                                        Tifway (419)
Contact:  Jim Barnette, Owner
                                                                     
FRIERSON LANDSCAPE CONTRACTING    (803)  356-2588        Centipede
Route 1, Box 130
Lexington, SC  29072
Contact:  John Fierson
          Bobby Frierson
GREEN BLADE TURF GRASS, INC.      (803)  284-2616        Tifgreen (328)
P. O. Box 395                                            Tifgreen II
Blackville, SC  29817                                    Tifway (419)
Contact:  Winfred McDonald                               Tifway II
                                                         Centipede
                                                         Meyer zoysia
                                                         Emerald zoysia
                                                         Raleigh St. Augustine
                                                         Tifgreen w/Perennial
                                                          ryegrass
 
GRESSETTE TURF NURSERY            (803)  669-3132        Meyer zoysia
P. O. Box 12260                                          Centipede
Florence, SC  29504                                      Tifway bermuda (419)
Contact:  Tom P. Gressette
HIGH TECH TURF FARM               (803)  651-8352        Centipede
Grand Strand Water & Sewer          (Main Office)        Tifway
   Authority                             651-8494        Tifgreen
P. O. Box 1537                         (Sod Farm)           
Contact:  Jack Jordon
          Supervisor, Sod Farm
          Don Brewer
          Supervisor, Sewer Authority
 
HENRY FARMS                       (803)  838-2762        Centipede
Charles Henry                                            Raleigh St. Augustine
Route 2, Box 485                                         Tifway II
Frogmore, SC  29920                                      Tifway 417
Contact:  Charles Henry                                  Tifgreen II
          Craig Henry    
MASON'S TREE & TURF FARM          (803)  827-0331        Centipede
905 Sanbar Ferry                                         Meyer zoysia
Beech Island                                             Floratam St. Augustine
N. Augusta, SC  29841                                    Tifgreen II
Contact:  Jack D. Mason                                  Tifway bermuda
                                                         Tifway II                                                                  
 
MERRITT BROS. LANDSCAPING         (803)  859-4189        Clemfine fescue sod
3M TURF                                                  Rebel/Falcon fescue
Route 13, Box 222                                         sod
Easley, SC  29640                                        Ky 31 fescue sod
Contact:  Chris McDonald                                 Ky 31/Baron bluegrass 
          Bob & Gene Merritt                              sod         
                                                         Tifway bermuda  
                                                         Tifgreen bermuda
 
NEVILLE AND COWAN TURF            (803)  638-2531        Clemfine Tall Fescue 
P.O. Box 398                                              Sod
Walhalla, SC  29691
Contact:  Jess Neville
          Robert Cowan
NIMMER TURF FARM                  (803)  726-8685        Centipede
P. O. Box 279                                            St. Augustine
Ridgeland, SC  29936                                     Bermuda Hybrids
 
PALMETTO TURF FARM                (803)  665-1088        Centipede
P. O. Box 749                                            Centipede overseeded
Effingham, SC  29541                                      w/perennial ryegrass
Contact:  Craven Jones                                   Tifgreen bermuda      
                                                         Tifway II bermuda     
                                                         Meyer zoysia          
                                                         Emerald zoysia        
                                                         Bentgrass sod for     
                                                          greens
                                                         Raleigh St. Augustine
                                                         Turf-Type Tall Fescue
                                                           Blend of Olympic,
                                                           Bonanza & Apache
PLANTERSVILLE SOD NURSERY         (803)  651-1944        Centipede
Star Route 1                                             Tifway bermuda
Georgetown, SC  29440                                    Raleigh St. Augustine
Contact:  Jean Crouch                                    (all above being
          Mark Johnson                                   planted July, 1986)
 
RAVENSWOOD PLANTATION             (803)  889-3332        Centipede
P. O. Box 331                            559-9335        Tifway II
Johns Island, SC  29455                                  Tifway II overseeded
Contact:  Ben Sumrell                                     w/Medalist
          Joe Minshew                                    Tifgreen
                                                         Raleigh St. Augustine
                                                         Floratam St. Augustine
                                                         Meyer zoysia
SUPER SOD CAROLINA, DIV. OF       (803)  531-4494        Centipede
PATTEN SEED & TURFGRASS CO.                (Home)        Tifgreen II
Route 2, Box 150                         531-4449        Tifway II
Hwy. 301 North                           (Office)        Raleigh St. Augustine
Orangeburg, SC  29116                                    Emerald zoysia
Contact:  Jim Roquemore                                  Meyer zoysia
                                                         Tifway II w/common
                                                          ryegrass
                                                         Tifgreen II w/common
                                                          ryegrass
 
ROUND TREE FARMS                  (803)  359-5081        Centipede
460 Barr Road
Lexington, SC  29072
Contact:  Gene Roundtree
 
WALPOLE & LEGARE                  (803)  559-9183        Floratam St. Augustine
P. O. Box 395                                            Centipede
Johns Island, SC  29455                                  Tifgreen bermuda
Contact:  Legare Walpole                                 Tifway bermuda
WILLSHIRE FARM                    (803)  496-5257        Tifway bermuda
Route 1, Box 287                                          Available spring 
Santee, SC  29142                                         1988
Contact:  William T. Bull
                                                             
NORTH CAROLINA
 
Mrs. Amelia Bidgle                (919)  791-4399        Emerald zoysia
5050 Carolina Beach Road                                 Meyer zoysia
Wilmington, NC  28405
 
BURGAW CREEK NURSERY              (919)  259-4788        Tifgreen
P. O. Box 972                                            Tifway
Burgaw, NC  28425                                        Vamont
Contact:  Dave Howard                                    Centipede
CAROLINA TURF CO., INC.           (919)  875-6141        Tifway
Route 1                                                  Tifway II
P. O. Box 850                                            Tifdwarf
Raeford, NC  28376                                       Pee Dee (102)
Contact:  William L. Poole, Jr.          875-2601        Emerald zoysia
          Joe Poole                                      Centipede
                                                         Tifgreen
                                                         Raleigh St. Augustine
                                                         Rebel fescue sod
 
DUNN'S ROCK TURF FARM, INC.       (704)  743-5148        Available May '88:
Route 1, Box 292-A                (704)  885-2331        Baron/Nassau Ky blue
Brevard, NC  28712                                       Falcon tall fescue
Contact:  Steve Okula
          Roy Orr
CURRITUCK TURF FARMS, INC.        (919)  491-2602        Tifdwarf
D/B/A United Turf                                        Tifgreen
P. O. Box 278                                            Tifway
Powells Point, NC  27966                                 Tifway II
Contact:  Keith Hall                                     Vamont
                                                         Meyer zoysia
                                                         Galway Tall fescue 
 
HANCOCK GRASS & TURF              (919)  483-7865        Tifgreen
P. O. Box 207                                            Tifway
Stedman, NC  28391                                       Common
Contact:  K. E. Hancock                                  Centipede
                                                         Emerald zoysia
 
NUTRI-TURF, INC.                  (919)  795-5123        Tifway II
P.O. Box 238                                             Vamont
Robersonville, NC  27871                                 Fescue
Contact:  Wayne Williams             
OAKLAND PLANTATION                (919)  669-2991        Tifgreen
202 Edgemont Drive                                       Tifgreen II
Kings Mountain, NC  28086                                Vamont bermuda
Contact:  Paul Mauney             (704)  739-4583        Tifway
          Lou Ballew                                     Tifway II
          Rick Neisler                                   Tifgreen "short cut"
                                                          for greens
                                                         Centipede
                                                         Raleigh St. Augustine
 
SANDHILL TURF, INC.                                      Rebel fescue/blue-
Sales Office:                     (919)  887-3726         grass blend
P. O. Box 6658                                           Tifway II
Highpoint, NC  27262                                     Tifgreen
Farm:                             (919)  974-7524        Tifgreen II
P. O. Box 546                                            Centipede
Candor, NC  27229                                        Zoysia
TARHEEL TURFGRASS COMPANY         (919)  936-1141        Tifway bermuda
Route 1, Box 208                                         Tifgreen bermuda
Princeton, NC  27569                                     Centipede
Contact:  Al or Susie Newberry                           Vamont bermuda
 
UNITED TURF, INC.                 (919)  496-4054        Tifdwarf
P. O. Box 729                                            Tifgreen
Louisburg, NC  27549                                     Tifgreen II
                                                         Tifway
                                                         Tifway II
                                                         Vamont bermuda
                                                         Raleigh St. Augustine
                                                         Centipede
                                                         Emerald zoysia
                                                         Meyer zoysia
                                                         Rebel fescue
                                                         Falcon fescue
                                                         Galway fescue
TRI-STATE TURF                    (919)  567-2625        Available spring '88:
P.O. Box 527                                               centipede
Newton Grove, NC  28366                                  Rebel 2 + Kenblue
Contact:  Clark Wooten
 
W & W SOD FARM                    (919)  658-2967(night) Penncross bentgrass
Route 1, Box 290                  (919)  658-4521(night)  (sod for putting
Mt. Olive, NC  28365              (919)  778-3575(day)     greens) 
                                                                    
GEORGIA
 
GLEN OAK'S TURF                   (912)  336-7783        Fescue
Route 1                                                  Tifway/Medalist
Oak Drive                                                Adalayd saltgrass
Camilla, GA  31730                                       Tifway bermuda
Contact:  Lewis Flynn family                             Tifway II bermuda
          Susan Taylor                                   Tifgreen bermuda
                                                         Tifgreen II bermuda
                                                         Tifdwarf bermuda
                                                         Centipede
                                                         Zoysia:  Emerald &
                                                          Meyer
                                                         Raleigh St. Augustine
                                                         Floratam St. Augustine
GRASSINGS UNLIMITED, INC.         (912)  382-8464        Tifdwarf bermuda
Route 2, Box 760G                                        Tifgreen bermuda
Tifton, GA  31794                                        Tifway II bermuda 
                                                                  
GREEN BLADE TURF GRASS, INC.      (404)  628-4293        Tifton (328)
P. O. Box 305                                            Tifway (419)
Hamilton, GA  31811                                      Centipede
Contact:  Ralph O. Walton, Jr.                           Zoysia 
 
H. E. HART                        (912)  728-3380        Tifgreen bermuda
Route 1, Box 408 
Guyton, GA  31312  
 
MILLHAVEN COMPANY, INC.           (912)  829-3252        Tifway II bermuda
Route 1, Box 355
Sylvania, GA  30467 
 
NORTH GEORGIA TURF & SOD          (404)  854-8249        Tifway II bermuda
Route 2, Box 270
Franklin, GA  30217 
PATTEN SEED & TURFGRASS CO.       (912)  482-3131        Centipede
119 Murrell Avenue                                       Tifgreen bermuda
Lakeland, GA  31635                                      Emerald zoysia
Contact:  Bill Roquemore                                 St. Augustine
          Ben Copeland                                   Raleigh St. Augustine
                                                         Tifdwarf bermuda
                                                         Tifway bermuda
                                                         Tifway II bermuda 
 
SOUTHERN TURF NURSERIES           (912)  382-5655        Centipede
P. O. Box 369                                            Meyer zoysia
Tifton, GA  31993                                        Emerald zoysia
Contact:  Steve Gibson,           (800)  772-8873        Tifway
             Gen. Mgr.               (in GA only)        Tifway II
          Turner Gibson,          (800)  841-6413        Tifgreen
             Vice Pres.,                                 Tifgreen II
             Athletic Fields      (800)  522-7333        Tifdwarf
          Tommy Nalls, Sales         (all over SE)       Midiron bermuda 
TIFTON TURF FARMS                 (912)  386-8061        Centipede
P. O. Box 1912                    (800)  841-6645        Tifway & overseeded
Tifton, GA  31794                   (all over SE)        Tifway II
Contact:  Charles Rainey          (800)  521-1276        Tifgreen & overseeded
          Paul Massey               (GA WATS)            Tifgreen II
          Mac Wilder                                     Tifdwarf
                                                         Emerald zoysia
                                                         Midiron bermuda 
 
 
VIRGINIA
 
KIDWELL TURF FARMS                (703)  825-1151        Fescue (Ky 31) 
Route 3, Box 16A                                          mixtures
Culpeper, VA  22701                                      Bluegrass blends    
Contact:  Jack Kidwell                                   Meyer zoysia        
                                                         Tifway bermuda      
                                                         Tifgreen bermuda    
                                                         Midiron bermuda     
                                                         Tufcote bermuda     
KIDWELL TURF FARMS                (804)  689-2863        Fescue (Ky 31)       
Route 1, Box 140                                          mixtures
Bakerville, VA  23915                                    Bluegrass blends
                                                         Meyer zoysia
                                                         Tifway bermuda
                                                         Tifgreen bermuda
                                                         Midiron bermuda
                                                         Tufcote bermuda 
 
ALABAMA
 
BECK'S TURF NURSERY               (205)  821-0969        Centipede
P. O. Box 752                                            Zoysia
Auburn, AL  36830                                        Bermuda hybrid 
 
 
FLORIDA
 
PURSLEY TURF FARMS                                       Seville (dwarf) St.
Route 1, Box 402X                                         Augustine (patented)
Palmetto, FL  33561                              
NUTRI-TURF, INC.                  (904)  764-7100        St. Augustine 
16163 Lem Turner Road                                     Floratam
Jacksonville, FL  32218-1550                             St. Augustine Raleigh
Contact:  Scott Heckler, Farm Manager                    St. Augustine Delmar
          Charles Peacock, Senior Agronomist             Tifway 419
          Jay McCord, Marketing Rep.                     Tifway II
                                                         Tifgreen 328
                                                         Tifdwarf
                                                         Emerald Zoysia
 
TENNESSEE
 
NUTRI-TURF, INC.                  (615)  795-5123        Tifway 419
P.O. Box 758                                             Tifway II
Fayetteville, TN  37334                                  Vamont
Contact:  Charles Williams, Farm Manager                 Tifgreen 328
                                                         Mid Iron
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SMALL FRUIT NURSERY STOCK                           
-DOC-
                           SMALL FRUIT NURSERY STOCK
                 G. Ansel King, Jr., Extension Horticulturist
 
BLUEBERRIES
 
     W. F. Allen Co., 481 Berry St., Salisbury, MD  21801
     A. G. Ammon Nursery, Box 488, Chatsworth, NJ  08019
     Bountiful Ridge Nurseries, Inc., P. O. Box 250, Princess Anne,
       MD  21853
     C & O Nursery Co., Box 116, Wenatchee, WA  98801
     DeGrandchamp Blueberry Farm, RR #13, 14th Ave., S. Haven, MI  49090
     Dean Foster Nurseries, AFG-807, Hartford, MI  49057
     Finch Blueberry Nursery, Bailey, NC  27807
     Hawthorne Nurseries, Rt. #9, Ringgold, GA  30736
     Kelly Brothers Nurseries, 934 Maple St., Dansville, NY  14437
     Lewis Taylor Farms, P. O. Box 822, Tifton, GA  31794
     Waynesboro Nurseries, P. O. Box 987, Waynesboro, VA  22980
     Zike Brothers Nursery, P. O. Box 8, Baroda, MI  49101
     Rose Creek Plantation, Rt. 3, Box 358, Watkinsville, GA  30677
 
 
 
BRAMBLES
 
     W. F. Allen Co., 481 Berry St., Salisbury, MD  21801
     Brittle's Nursery (Commanche, Cheyenne Blackberries), Tehlequah, OK
        74464
     Bountiful Ridge Nurseries, Inc., P. O. Box 250, Princess Anne, MD
        21853
     C & O Nursery Co., Box 116, Wenatchee, WA  98801
     Dean Foster Nurseries, AFG-807, Hartford, MI  49057
     Mr. Kirby Fisher (Cherokee Blackberry), Rt. 2, Tehlequah, OK  74464
     Gardens Beautiful, Willard, NC  28778
     Kelly Brothers Nurseries, 934 Maple St., Dansville, NY  14437
     McCormick Fruit Tree Co., Inc. 1315 Fruitvale Blvd., Yakima, WA
        98902
     Waynesboro Nurseries, P. O. Box 987, Waynesboro, VA  22980
     Zike Brothers Nursery, P. O. Box 8, Baroda, MI  49101
     Rose Creek Plantation, Rt. 3, Box 358, Watkinsville, GA  30677
     Sunshine Berry Farm, RR 1, Box 92, Macon, MS  39341
 
 
 
 
GRAPES
 
     W. F. Allen Co., 481 Berry St., Salisbury, MD  21801
     Boordy Nursery, Box 38, Riderwood, MD  21139
     Bountiful Ridge Nurseries, Inc., P. O. Box 250, Princess Anne,
        MD  21853
     Culver Nursery, P. O. Box 93, Farmersville, CA  93223
     Dean Foster Nurseries, AFG-807, Hartford, MI  49057
     Ison's Nursery and Vineyard, Brooks, GA  30205
     Kelly Brothers Nurseries, 934 Maple St., Dansville, NY  14437
     McCormick Fruit Tree Co., Inc. 1315 Fruitvale Blvd., Yakima, WA
        98902
     Owens' Vineyard and Nursery, Gay, GA  30218
     Waynesboro Nurseries, P. O. Box 987, Waynesboro, VA  22980
     Zike Brothers Nursery, P. O. Box 8, Baroda, MI  49101
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
SOURCES OF UNIVERSITY OF ARKANSAS GRAPE RELEASES (PLUS OTHER CULTIVARS)
 
     Alpine Nursery, Rt. 1, Box 9, Altus, AR  72821
     Blossomberry Nursery, Rt. 2, Box 158A, Clarksvile, AR  72830
     Boston Mountain Nurseries, Rt. 2, Mountainburg, AR  72946
     Evergreen Nursery Co., Inc., 5027 County Trunk TT, Sturgeon Bay,
        WI  54235
     Fincastle Berries, Rt. 2, Box 169, LaRue, TX  75770
     Forrest Keeling Nursery, Elsberry, MO  63343
     Foster Nursery Co., Inc., Fredonia, NY  14063
     Grayson Farms/Nursery, P. O. Box 699, Bald Knob, AR  72010
     Lon Rombough Nursery, 4285 Portland Rd., NE, Salem, OR  97303
     M & A Vineyard, Star Route, Box 61, Cave City, AR  72521
     Stephenville Vineyard and Nursery, P. O. Box 1197, Stephenville, TX
        76401
     Steve Miller Nursery, Rt. 2, Box 656, Judsonia, AR  72081
     Willie Booker Nursery, P. O. Box 268, Hamburg, AR  71646
 
 
 
 
 
STRAWBERRIES
 
     Ahrens Strawberry Nursery, Huntingburg, IN  47542
     W. F. Allen Co., 481 Berry St., Salisbury, MD  21801
     Bountiful Ridge Nurseries, Inc., P. O. Box 250, Princess
        Anne, MD  21853
     Buntings' Nurseries, Inc., P. O. Box 306, Selbyville, DE  19975,
        Phone:  302-436-8231 (Tissue Culture Plants)
     Carolina Blueberry Coop. Assn., Box 547, Burgaw, NC  82425
     Conner Brothers Co., P. O. Box 534, Augusta, AR  72006
     DBA Mac Farms (W. R. McLeod), 303 Ridgeway St., Clinton, NC  29328
     Dean Foster Nurseries, AFG-807, Hartford, MI  49057
     John Goodson Nursery, Rt. 1, Box 111, Mt. Olive, NC  28365
[B     Kelly Brothers Nurseries, 934 Maple St., Dansville, NY  14437
     William Krohne Plant Farm, Box AFG-817, RR #6, Dowagiac, MI  49047
     Lewis Strawberry Nursery Inc., P. O. Box 24, Rocky Point, NC  28457
     Mullins Plant Farm, 410 Brookfield Ave., Chattanooga, TN  37411
     Nor-Cal Nursery & Sales, P. O. Box 135, Watsonville, CA  95077
     Rayner Brothers Inc., Salisbury, MD  21801
     Waynesboro Nurseries, P. O. Box 987, Waynesboro, VA  22980
     Joseph W. Woodward, Jr., Rt. 1, Box 338, Spring Hope, NC  27882
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
1987-88 CALENDAR OF SPECIAL ACTIVITIES                    
-DOC-
                    1987-88 CALENDAR OF SPECIAL ACTIVITIES
                          DEPARTMENT OF HORTICULTURE
 
MAY 1987
 
   21-22                MEETING OF PARTICIPANTS IN THE TRI-STATE PROJECT,
                        "AGRICULTURAL ADJUSTMENT IN THE SOUTHEAST THROUGH
                        ALTERNATIVE CROPPING SYSTEMS" - Charleston, SC.
                        (Contact:  Prof. Tom Garrett, Hort. Dept., 656-3403)
 
      26                VEGETABLE FIELD DAY - Coastal REC, Charleston, SC;
                        begins at 10:00 am.
                        (Contact:  Dr. Wilton Cook, Coastal REC, 766-3252)
 
JUNE 1987
 
    8-10                BASIC GREENHOUSE AND NURSERY MANAGEMENT WORKSHOP
                        - Sandhill REC, Pontiac, SC; co-sponsored by the
                        SC Greenhouse Growers Association and the Clemson
                        University Cooperative Extension Service.
                        (Contact:  Dr. John Kelly, Hort. Dept., 656-2565)
JUNE 1987 (cont'd.)
 
      16                VEGETABLE FIELD DAY - Sandhill REC, Pontiac, SC;
                        begins at 1:30 pm.
                        (Contact:  Dr. Wilton Cook, Coastal REC, 766-3252)
 
      23                VEGETABLE FIELD DAY - Pee Dee REC, Florence, SC;
                        begins at 1:30 pm.
                        (Contact:  Dr. Wilton Cook, Coastal REC, 766-3252)
 
 
JULY 1987
 
       9                VEGETABLE FIELD DAY - Edisto REC, Blackville, SC.
                        begins at 10:00 am.
                        (Contact:  Dr. Wilton Cook, Coastal REC, 766-3252)
 
   10-19                1987 SOUTH CAROLINA PEACH FESTIVAL, Gaffney, SC;
                        open to the public.
                        (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
 
JULY 1987 (cont'd.)
   16-19                1987 GEORGIA/SOUTH CAROLINA COMMERCIAL FLOWER GROWERS
                        SHORT COURSE AND TRADE SHOW - the Hyatt Regency,
                        Greenville, SC; co-sponsored by the GA Commercial
                        Flower Growers Association, Inc., the SC Commercial
                        Greenhouse Growers Association, and the University
                        of GA and Clemson University Cooperative Extension
                        Services.
                        (Contact:  Dr. John Kelly, Hort. Dept., 656-2565)
 
      25 (9 am-4 pm)    FLOWER DAY 1987 - Clemson University Botanical 
                        Garden, Campus; co-sponsored by the Department of 
                        Horticulture and the Garden Club of South Carolina;
                        open to the public.
                        (Contact:  Dr. David Bradshaw, Hort. Dept., 656-3403)
 
OCTOBER 1987
 
  (Date TBA)            THE STONE FRUIT DECLINE WORKSHOP, Ramada Inn, Clemson,
                        SC.
                        (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
OCTOBER 1987 (cont'd.)
 
  (Date TBA)            THE SOUTHEASTERN PROFESSIONAL PEACH WORKERS 
                        CONFERENCE, Ramada Inn, Clemson, SC.
                        (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
 
 
 
NOVEMBER 1987
 
    3-4                THE FOURTH ANNUAL SOUTH CAROLINA HORTICULTURE SOCIETY
                       CONVENTION - the Sheraton-NW, Columbia, SC.
                       (Contact:  Dr. Ansel King, Hort. Dept., 656-2789)
 
    6-12               THE 84TH ANNUAL MEETING OF THE AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR 
                       HORTICULTURAL SCIENCE (ASHS) JOINTLY WITH THE
                       INTER-AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TROPICAL HORTICULTURE
                       (formerly the ASHS Tropical Region) - Hyatt Orlando
                       Hotel, Orlando, FL.  Horticulture and sightseeing
                       tours will be featured.
NOVEMBER 1987 (cont'd.)
 
   10-11               THE 21ST ANNUAL CLEMSON TURFGRASS CONFERENCE - the
                       Myrtle Beach Hilton, Myrtle Beach, SC; co-sponsored by 
                       Clemson University and the Department of Horticulture 
                       in cooperation with the Carolinas Golf Course 
                       Superintendents Association; open to all turfgrass 
                       managers, consultants, equipment and supplies 
                       distributors, county agents, students, designers and
                       architects, sod growers, superintendents, green 
                       committees, etc.
                       (Contact:  Dr. Landon Miller, Hort. Dept., 656-2565)
 
 
   18-20               THE CUMBERLAND-SHENANDOAH FRUIT WORKERS CONFERENCE
                       - Harpers Ferry, WV.
                       (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
DECEMBER 1987
 
    2-3                THE GEORGIA/SOUTH CAROLINA WINTER APPLE MEETING 
                       - the Holiday Inn, Gainesville, GA; co-sponsored by
                       the Georgia Marketing Authority, the SC Apple Growers
                       Association, and the University of GA and Clemson 
                       University Cooperative Extension Services.
                       (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
 
 
 
JANUARY 1988
 
    6-8                THE NORTH CAROLINA APPLE MEETING - Asheville, NC.
                       (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
 
   14-16               THE GEORGIA/SOUTH CAROLINA NURSERYMEN'S SHORT COURSE
                       - Savannah, GA; co-sponsored by the GA/SC Nurserymen's
                       Association in cooperation with the Clemson University
                       and University of GA Cooperative Extension Services.
                       (Contact:  Prof. John Kelly, Hort. Dept., 656-2565)
JANUARY 1988 (cont'd.)
 
 (Jan. or Feb.,        THE SOUTHEASTERN PEACH CONVENTION - Charleston, SC.
 date TBA)             (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
 
   30-31               THE SWEET POTATO COLLABORATORS CONFERENCE (in
                       connection with ASHS-SR Meetings) - New Orleans, LA.
                       (Contact:  Hort. Dept. Head's Office, 656-4964)
 
    31                 PECAN RESEARCH AND EXTENSION GROUP MEETING
                       (in connection with ASHS-SR Meetings) - New
                       Orleans, LA.
                       (Contact:  Hort. Dept. Head's Office, 656-4964)
 
 31-Feb. 2             THE 48TH ANNUAL MEETING OF THE AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR
                       HORTICULTURAL SCIENCE, SOUTHERN REGION - New Orleans,
                       LA.
                       (Contact:  Hort. Dept. Head's Office, 656-4964)
 
FEBRUARY 1988
 
    9-12               THE NATIONAL PEACH COUNCIL CONVENTION -  Atlantic City,
                       NJ.
                       (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
 
(Date & location TBA)  THE SOUTH CAROLINA GROUNDS MAINTENANCE CONFERENCE,
                       co-sponsored by the Department of Horticulture and 
                       the SC Landscape and Turfgrass Association.
                       (Contact:  Dr. Bob Mazur or Dr. Don Wagner, Hort. 
                       Dept., 656-2454 or 2459)
 
 
JUNE 1988
 
   19-22               THE SECOND INTERNATIONAL PEACH SYMPOSIUM - Clemson
                       University Campus; co-sponsored by Clemson University 
                       and the International Society for Horticultural 
                       Science, in conjunction with Clemson University's 
                       Centennial. 
                       (Contact:  Dr. D.C. Coston, Hort. Dept., 656-3403)
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RASPBERRY FERTILIZATION                          
-DOC-
                          RASPBERRY FERTILIZATION
                  John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     Two weeks after planting, apply 1 1/4 pounds 10-10-10 per 50' row or 
1/2 cup per plant.  In June in year of planting, apply 1/8 pound of ammonium 
nitrate per plant.  March of second year, apply 2 1/2 - 5 pounds of 10-10-10 
per 50' row or 1 - 1 1/2 cup per plant.  June of second year, apply 
1/4 - 1/2 pounds ammonium nitrate per 50' row or 2/3 cup per plant.  
At bloom of third year and proceeding years, apply 5 - 10 pounds of 10-10-10 
per 50' row or 3 cups per plant.  After harvest of third year and 
proceeding years, apply 1/4 - 1/2 pounds ammonium nitrate per 50' row or 2/3 
cup per plant.
 
     Take soil samples every 2 to 3 years and apply limestone as indicated 
to maintain a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
KIWIFRUIT FERTILIZATION                          
-DOC-
                          KIWIFRUIT FERTILIZATION
                  John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     The following fertilization schedule is recommended:
 
     Nonbearing vines    Apply 1 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer per vine 
                         before growth starts in the spring and apply 1/8 
                         pound of ammonium nitrate per vine when the new 
                         growth is about 6 inches long.  Broadcast 
                         fertilizer applications in a band alongside the 
                         plant and at least 1 foot away.
 
     Bearing vines       Apply 1 1/2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per plant 
                         as follows:  3/4 pound per plant before growth 
                         starts in the spring and the second 3/4 pound about 
                         the time the new canes are about 6 inches long.  
                         Apply as recommended for 1-year plants.
 
 
     Take soil samples every 2 to 3 years and apply limestone as indicated 
to maintain a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BUNCH GRAPE FERTILIZATION                         
-DOC-
                         BUNCH GRAPE FERTILIZATION
                  John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     The following fertilization schedule is recommended:
 
     Nonbearing vines    Apply 1 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer per vine 
                         before growth starts in the spring and apply 1/8 
                         pound of ammonium nitrate per vine when the new 
                         growth is about 6 inches long.  Broadcast 
                         fertilizer applications in a band alongside the 
                         plant and at least 1 foot away.
 
     Bearing vines       Apply 1 1/2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per plant 
                         as follows:  3/4 pound per plant before growth 
                         starts in the spring and the second 3/4 pound about 
                         the time the new canes are about 6 inches long.  
                         Apply as recommended for 1 year plants.
 
 
     Take soil samples every 2 to 3 years and apply limestone as indicated 
to maintain a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
APRICOT FERTILIZATION                             
-DOC-
                             APRICOT FERTILIZATION
                   John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     FERTILIZATION (PER TREE) - Fertilize as follows:
 
     First Year:         1 pound of complete fertilizer, 10-10-10
                         1/8 pound ammonium nitrate or equivalent
 
     Second Year:        2 pounds of complete fertilizer, 10-10-10
                         1/4 pound ammonium nitrate or equivalent
 
     Third Year:         4 pounds of complete fertilizer, 5-10-10
                         
     Apply half of the above amount in late February and the remaining half 
in late April.  An additional application of nitrogen may be made in early 
June if trees indicate nitrogen deficiency.
 
     For mature or bearing trees, fertilize at the rate of 1 to 1 1/2 pounds 
of a complete fertilizer per year of age until trees are 8-10 years old.  
Then apply 8-10 pounds per tree thereafter - use a 5-10-10 fertilizer.
 
 
     On trees less than 3 years old, broadcast fertilizer under the spread 
of branches, keeping fertilizer at least 1 foot from the trunk.  On mature 
trees, apply fertilizer broadcast over all soil surface.
 
     Take soil samples every 2 to 3 years and apply limestone as indicated 
to maintain a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BLACKBERRY FERTILIZATION                         
-DOC-
                         BLACKBERRY FERTILIZATION
                  John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     Two weeks after planting, apply 1 1/4 pounds 10-10-10 per 50' row or 
1/2 cup per plant.  In June in year of planting, apply 1/8 pound of ammonium 
nitrate per plant.  March of second year, apply 2 1/2 - 5 pounds of 10-10-10 
per 50' row or 1 - 1 1/2 cup per plant.  June of second year, apply 
1/4 - 1/2 pounds ammonium nitrate per 50' row or 2/3 cup per plant.  
At bloom of third year and proceeding years, apply 5 - 10 pounds of 10-10-10 
per 50' row or 3 cups per plant.  After harvest of third year and 
proceeding years, apply 1/4 - 1/2 pounds ammonium nitrate per 50' row or 2/3 
cup per plant.
 
     Take soil samples every 2 to 3 years and apply limestone as indicated 
to maintain a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PECAN FERTILIZATION                            
-DOC-
                            PECAN FERTILIZATION
                  John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     Take soil samples every 2 to 3 years and apply limestone as indicated 
to maintain a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
 
     Nonbearing          A newly transplanted tree should NOT be fertilized 
                         at the time of planting but should receive 2 to 3 
                         pounds of 10-10-10 containing at least two units of 
                         zinc per tree in May the year it is transplanted.  
                         Then each succeeding year until the tree begins 
                         production, apply 4 pounds of 10-10-10 plus zinc 
                         in late February or early March for each inch of 
                         trunk diameter measured one foot above the soil 
                         surface.  
 
                         Strive for an average terminal growth of about 3 
                         feet annually.  If the growth is shorter than this, 
                         apply additional nitrogen at the rate of 1/2 to 1 
                         pound of ammonium nitrate or an equivalent amount 
                         of nitrogen from another source of quickly 
                         available nitrogen.
 
     Bearing             The recommended fertilizer program is to apply 6 
                         pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per inch of trunk 
                         diameter measured 4 feet above the soil line.  
                         Apply fertilizer in late February or early March.  
                         On sandy soils split application can be made - the 
                         first half being applied in late February or early 
                         March and the second near blooming time in May.  To 
                         prevent zinc deficiency, the fertilizer listed 
                         above should contain 1 to 2 percent zinc.  Lack of 
                         enough zinc and nitrogen reduces production more 
                         than any other factor.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEAR FERTILIZATION                             
-DOC-
                             PEAR FERTILIZATION
                  John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     Pears should be fertilized sparingly.  If you desire to use fertilizer 
every year, the following is suggested:
 
     FERTILIZATION (PER TREE) - The following amounts are suggested for the 
first 5 years:
 
     First Year          1 lb 10-10-10 and 1/8 lb ammonium nitrate
 
     Second Year         2 lb 10-10-10 and 1/4 lb ammonium nitrate
 
     Third Year          3 lb 10-10-10 and 3/8 lb ammonium nitrate
 
     Fourth Year         4 lb 10-10-10 and 1/2 lb ammonium nitrate
 
     Fifth Year          5 lb 10-10-10 and 3/4 lb ammonium nitrate
 
 
 
 
     After trees reach bearing age, apply only a complete fertilizer, 
10-10-10.  Usually 2 to 3 pounds of fertilizer per inch of diameter of the 
tree just above the soil line is adequate.  However, the best determination 
of the fertilizer needs of the tree is indicated by the terminal growth and 
the number and size of the leaves on a bearing spur.  The terminal growth 
should be maintained at an average of 15 to 18 inches in length and there 
should be a minimum of eight good leaves on each bearing spur.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEACH FERTILIZATION                            
-DOC-
                            PEACH FERTILIZATION
                  John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     FERTILIZATION (PER TREE) - Fertilize as follows:
 
     First Year:         1 pound of complete fertilizer, 10-10-10
                         1/8 pound ammonium nitrate or equivalent
 
     Second Year:        2 pounds of complete fertilizer, 10-10-10
                         1/4 pound ammonium nitrate or equivalent
 
     Third Year:         4 pounds of complete fertilizer, 5-10-10
                         
     Apply half of the above amount in late February and the remaining half 
in late April.  An additional application of nitrogen may be made in early 
June if trees indicate nitrogen deficiency.
 
     For mature or bearing trees, fertilize at the rate of 1 to 1 1/2 pounds 
of a complete fertilizer per year of age until trees are 8-10 years old.  
Then apply 8-10 pounds per tree thereafter - use a 5-10-10 fertilizer.
 
 
     On trees less than 3 years old, broadcast fertilizer under the spread 
of branches, keeping fertilizer at least 1 foot from the trunk.  On mature 
trees, apply fertilizer broadcast over all soil surface.
 
     Take soil samples every 2 to 3 years and apply limestone as indicated 
to maintain a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FIG FERTILIZATION                             
-DOC-
                             FIG FERTILIZATION
                  John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     Use 1 pound of 10-10-10 per foot of height of the bush.  Broadcast 
uniformly under the spread of the branches and apply in 3 applications:  1/3 
in late winter, 1/3 in early June and 1/3 in late July.  For example, if a 
fig bush is 9 feet, 3 pounds of 10-10-10 should be applied in early March, 3 
pounds in early June and 3 pounds in late July.
 
     Fig trees require only moderate applications of fertilizer.  If growth 
is below normal, make a moderate application in the spring of a low nitrogen 
mixed fertilizer.  Fig trees are easily stimulated to make rank leaf growth 
at the expense of fruiting.
 
     Take soil samples every 2 to 3 years and apply limestone as indicated 
to maintain a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PLUM FERTILIZATION                             
-DOC-
                             PLUM FERTILIZATION
                  John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     FERTILIZATION (PER TREE) - Fertilize as follows:
 
     First Year:         1 pound of complete fertilizer, 10-10-10
                         1/8 pound ammonium nitrate or equivalent
 
     Second Year:        2 pounds of complete fertilizer, 10-10-10
                         1/4 pound ammonium nitrate or equivalent
 
     Third Year:         4 pounds of complete fertilizer, 5-10-10
                         
     Apply half of the above amount in late February and the remaining half 
in late April.  An additional application of nitrogen may be made in early 
June if trees indicate nitrogen deficiency.
 
     For mature or bearing trees, fertilize at the rate of 1 to 1 1/2 pounds 
of a complete fertilizer per year of age until trees are 8-10 years old.  
Then apply 8-10 pounds per tree thereafter - use a 5-10-10 fertilizer.
 
 
     On trees less than 3 years old, broadcast fertilizer under the spread 
of branches, keeping fertilizer at least 1 foot from the trunk.  On mature 
trees, apply fertilizer broadcast over all soil surface.
 
     Take soil samples every 2 to 3 years and apply limestone as indicated 
to maintain a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
NECTARINE FERTILIZATION                          
-DOC-
                          NECTARINE FERTILIZATION
                  John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     FERTILIZATION (PER TREE) - Fertilize as follows:
 
     First Year:         1 pound of complete fertilizer, 10-10-10
                         1/8 pound ammonium nitrate or equivalent
 
     Second Year:        2 pounds of complete fertilizer, 10-10-10
                         1/4 pound ammonium nitrate or equivalent
 
     Third Year:         4 pounds of complete fertilizer, 5-10-10
                         
     Apply half of the above amount in late February and the remaining half 
in late April.  An additional application of nitrogen may be made in early 
June if trees indicate nitrogen deficiency.
 
     For mature or bearing trees, fertilize at the rate of 1 to 1 1/2 pounds 
of a complete fertilizer per year of age until trees are 8-10 years old.  
Then apply 8-10 pounds per tree thereafter - use a 5-10-10 fertilizer.
 
 
     On trees less than 3 years old, broadcast fertilizer under the spread 
of branches, keeping fertilizer at least 1 foot from the trunk.  On mature 
trees, apply fertilizer broadcast over all soil surface.
 
     Take soil samples every 2 to 3 years and apply limestone as indicated 
to maintain a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CHERRY FERTILIZATION                            
-DOC-
                            CHERRY FERTILIZATION
                  John D. Ridley, Extension Horticulturist
 
     FERTILIZATION (PER TREE) - Fertilize as follows:
 
     First Year:         1 pound of complete fertilizer, 10-10-10
                         1/8 pound ammonium nitrate or equivalent
 
     Second Year:        2 pounds of complete fertilizer, 10-10-10
                         1/4 pound ammonium nitrate or equivalent
 
     Third Year:         4 pounds of complete fertilizer, 5-10-10
                         
     Apply half of the above amount in late February and the remaining half 
in late April.  An additional application of nitrogen may be made in early 
June if trees indicate nitrogen deficiency.
 
     For mature or bearing trees, fertilize at the rate of 1 to 1 1/2 pounds 
of a complete fertilizer per year of age until trees are 8-10 years old.  
Then apply 8-10 pounds per tree thereafter - use a 5-10-10 fertilizer.
 
 
     On trees less than 3 years old, broadcast fertilizer under the spread 
of branches, keeping fertilizer at least 1 foot from the trunk.  On mature 
trees, apply fertilizer broadcast over all soil surface.
 
     Take soil samples every 2 to 3 years and apply limestone as indicated 
to maintain a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TALL FESCUE VARIETIES                             
-DOC-
                             TALL FESCUE VARIETIES
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
CLEMFINE is a medium textured, turf-type tall fescue that provides greater 
density and darker color than most currently available varieties.  It has 
superior heat and drought tolerance when compared to Kentucky 31 and most other
cultivars.  Clemfine has moderately good resistance to brown patch disease and 
fair resistance to Helminthosporium blight.
 
FALCON is a leafy, moderately low-growing, turf-type cultivar with a pleasing 
medium green color.  It can produce an attractive, more persistent turf with 
finer texture and higher density than most of the standard, commercially 
available cultivars of tall fescue.  Improved disease resistance to brown patch
and netblotch means a more attractive lawn of improved density and overall 
quality.
 
KENHY, a pasture-type grass adapted for lawn use, was selected for plant vigor,
soft lax leaves and high moisture content of green foliage during drought 
stress.  It also has greener foliar color and less leaf-roll than Kentucky 31 
during summer drought stress.
 
 
KENTUCKY 31 tall fescue has a wide range of plant types, with leaves having 
medium to narrow width, tending to roll.  A moderate amount of wax on the leaf 
surfaces gives the foliage a matte green texture.  It is resistant to stem and 
leaf rust and more resistant to crown rust than several of the older varieties.
Although Kentucky 31 has been the preferred variety for many years, several 
varieties have been tested and introduced which are superior to Kentucky 31.
 
KENWELL is a pasture-type grass used for turf purposes.  It is considered 
satisfactory although it is less robust and competitive than Kentucky 31.  
Kenwell has greater tolerance to some leaf diseases and consequently, maintains
better color during dry periods and into winter.
 
REBEL tall fescue produces a leafy, persistent turf of greater density, finer 
texture and a slower rate of growth than the standard commercially available 
varieties.  Rebel produces a medium low maintenance lawn in either full sun or 
moderate shade.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TIME OF ESTABLISHMENT FOR COOL SEASON GRASSES                 
-DOC-
                 TIME OF ESTABLISHMENT FOR COOL SEASON GRASSES
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist

     Cool-season grasses should be planted in late summer or early fall (mid-
September through mid-October) since high daytime temperatures and low 
nighttime temperatures provide the ideal environment for seed germination.  
Daytime temperature should be no higher than 70 degrees F and nighttime 
temperature should be no lower than 50 degrees F for optimum germination.  In 
addition, this same temperature range greatly reduces the chance of seedling 
diseases.

     Cool-season grasses need to become well established during the cool fall 
weather before winter and during the following cool spring weather so that a 
solid ground cover and extensive root system develop before severe summer 
heat.  Fall also provides less competition from weeds so that grasses get a 
headstart on weeds such as spring/summer crabgrass and others.

     Winter seeding can also be successful if temperatures are mild.  Spring 
and early summer seedings generally result in failure with as much as 50 
percent loss during the heat of summer because the root system has not had a 
chance to develop properly.  The grass may be replanted the following fall to 
improve the stand.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SEEDING/VEGETATIVE PLANTING                          
-DOC-
                          SEEDING/VEGETATIVE PLANTING
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist

     All cool-season grasses can be started by seeding which is the most 
economical way to establish a lawn.  Tall fescue does not spread rapidly like 
bermudagrass or centipede which means it will not invade shrub and flowers 
borders if the seed is kept out during seeding.

     Seeding rates are directly correlated to seed size as shown in the 
following table.  The more seeds per pound, the smaller the seeds and the less 
endosperm or available stored energy for germination and early growth.  Larger 
seeds have more stored energy and more vigorous young seedlings can be 
expected.









                     SEEDING RATES OF COOL-SEASON GRASSES
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                           Pounds
     Grass                 Seeds per pound         per 1,000 square feet
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tall fescue                    230,000                       5-10
Red fescue                     500,000                       3-5
Kentucky bluegrass           2,200,000                       2-3
Colonial bentgrass           8,000,000                       1-2
Annual ryegrass                230,000                       5-10
Perennial ryegrass             230,000                       5-10
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

     Seeding a lawn correctly is not easy and will take planning.  To avoid 
wasting seed, use a box-type applicator that drops the seed across its full 
width between the wheels.  Seeding by hand or with a rotary spreader results in 
waste and uneven spreading.  Some seeds will also be thrown into plant borders 
or shrub beds where they will cause a weed problem.



     The spreader must be calibrated accurately to deliver the desired seeding 
rate.  Use a concrete driveway or garage floor where the seed can be swept up 
and weighed or make a calibration pan to fit the bottom of the spreader and 
catch the seed.  The pan can be made from cardboard or a 4-inch pipe (aluminum 
or PVC) cut in half lengthwise with the ends closed.  Attach strings and S 
hooks for quick connection to the spreader.

     The following calibration procedure is suggested:

1.   Measure an area in length that, multiplied by the spreader width,
     will add up to 100 square feet if gone over one or several times.
     Example:  Spreader width  - 2 feet, measure 25 feet, go over
               two times - 2 x 25 x 2 = 100 square feet

2.   Place seed in the spreader and set the opening to the point          
     that you feel enough seed are dropping out.  Then cover the
     distance twice.





3.   Sweep the seeds up and weigh or weigh the seeds in the
     calibration pan.  The weight should be about 1/10 of 
     the actual seeding rate per 1,000 square feet.  If the
     recommended seeding rate is 5 pounds per 1,000 square
     feet, the spreader should have delivered 0.5 pound.

4.   If necessary, repeat steps 2 and 3 until the desired
     is reached, each time adjusting the spreader opening.

NOTE:  This same procedure should be used when the spreader is calibrated
       for fertilizer applications.

     With the spreader set at the correct opening, the outside perimeter of the 
lawn area, 2 to 4 feet wide, should be covered first.  This will outline the 
area to be seeded.  Seed in a counter-clockwise direction because the drive 
wheel of the spreader is on the right side.

     Continue seeding by going back and forth across the area, shutting the 
spreader off before each end turn and taking care that wheel tracks of box-type 
spreaders overlap about 3 to 4 inches.  This will distribute the seed 
accurately and uniformly.

     Another method of seeding an area is to calibrate the spreader to deliver 
one-half the desired amount of seed.  Then go over the area twice, applying the 
second half of seed at right angles to the first.

COVERING THE SEED

     For uniform seed germination, rake the area after seeding to mix the seed 
with the top 1/4 inch of soil.  Grass seeds germinate much better in close 
contact with moist soil.  Following this raking, roll the area again with a 
roller half filled with water.  This gives good soil-seed contact and better 
germination.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SITE SELECTION                                   
-DOC-
                                SITE SELECTION   
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
     Geraniums are commonly displayed in ground beds, window boxes, hanging 
baskets, and as specimen plants in containers at entryways.  They also make 
excellent gift items for Easter and Mother's Day.  The zonal geraniums bloom 
from early spring to frost.  They need full sun to produce the best flowers, 
but late afternoon shade may increase flowering in the heat of midsummer.  A 
minimum of 6 hours of sunlight is usually required for high quality plants. 
They tend to produce better flowers in spring and fall than in midsummer.   
The Ivy Leaf geraniums flower best in early spring and should be protected 
from the south midsummer sun and heat for continued success.  They can be 
grown in full sun until around mid-June and then should be moved into partial 
shade.  All geraniums need protection from high winds.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VARIETY SELECTION                                 
-DOC-
                               VARIETY SELECTION  
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
     Geraniums are one of the most popular flowering plants for Southern 
gardens.  Flower colors of red, pink, white, salmon and coral are available.  
They are relatively easy to grow, give spectacular summer color, and can be 
used in a wide variety of plantings.  There are several types of geraniums 
which are suitable for planting in southern gardens.  Zonal Geraniums - This 
is the common bedding plant geranium which is available each spring.  The 
species is Pelargonium hortorum and it comes in a multitude of varieties and 
colors.  They are referred to as zonals because they often have a darker 
zone (ring) on the leaves when grown under optimal conditions.  Ivy Leaf 
Geraniums - There has been increasing interest in recent years in the Ivy Leaf 
Geraniums which are botanically known as Pelargonium peltatum.  Their leaves 
resemble that of the woody vine English Ivy.  Ivy Leaf Geraniums make 
excellent hanging baskets and window box plants because of their trailing 
growth habit.  These geraniums tend to do best in shadier locations than the 
zonal types.  Scented Geraniums (Pelargonium sp.) are grown for their fragrant 
leaves.  Scents of peppermint, lemon, nutmeg, apple, etc. are available.  The 
flowers of the scented geraniums are not particularly showy.  Martha 
Washington geraniums (Pelargonium domesticum) is an outstanding large-flowered 
geranium.  They do best under cooler conditions.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PLANTING                                     
-DOC-
                                   PLANTING  
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
     Geraniums should be planted outdoors after all danger of frost has 
passed.  Well-grown plants should be purchased from a reputable retailer.  The 
geranium must have well-drained soil for best performance.  The heavy clay 
soils of parts of the southeast can be modified with perlite or organic matter 
to improve drainage and soil aeration.  Peat moss, leaf mold, compost, well- 
rotted manure, and pine bark are good sources of organic matter.  Three inches 
of the organic matter should be spread evenly over the area to be planted.  
The area should then be tilled or worked with a spade to a depth of 8-10 
inches until all soil additives are equally mixed with the native soil.  In 
soil that drains too well (extremely sandy soil), organic matter incorporation 
will improve the water holding capacity of the soil and produce better 
geraniums.  It is a good idea to incorporate fertilizer and lime at the time 
the bed is to be tilled.  Plants should be spaced from 12-15 inches apart when 
planting. Plant geraniums no deeper in the soil than they were in the pots 
that they're being transplanted from.  
 
     If planting geraniums in containers, a commercial potting mix can be used 
or a blend of 1/3 well-drained soil, 1/3 peat, and 1/3 bark or perlite can be 
mixed.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FERTILIZATION                                   
-DOC-
                                 FERTILIZATION  
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
     Before planting a soil test will tell how much lime and fertilizer should 
be added to properly adjust the pH and give the correct fertility.  If no soil 
test is run, a 10-10-10 fertilizer can be incorporated at a rate of 1-1 1/2 
pounds per 100 square feet.  Although only a soil test can determine the need 
for adjusting soil pH with lime, the addition of 2 pounds per 100 square feet 
will be suitable for most soils.  To maintain high quality, flowering plants 
throughout the summer geraniums should be fertilized once a month.  A 10-10-10 
fertilizer application at the rate of 1 1/2 pounds per 100 square feet should 
be applied and watered in.  Care must be taken not to get the fertilizer on 
the stems or foliage of the plants or burn may occur.  Liquid fertilizers may 
also be applied at the rate indicated on the package.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WATER MANAGEMENT                                
-DOC-
                               WATER MANAGEMENT 
                     John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturs
 
     Potted geraniums should be watered so that the entire root system is 
thoroughly wet.  Plants placed in ground beds should be thoroughly watered at 
transplanting.  Established plants should be watered as needed taking care not 
to keep the soil too wet.  Plants should not be allowed to wilt between 
waterings.  When watering established plants, the soil should be irrigated to 
a depth of 10-12 inches.  Watering should be done early enough in the day to 
allow foliage to dry before night or disease problems may occur.  It is best 
if water is applied to the ground and not allowed to get on the foliage.  A 
mulch around the base of the plants will reduce weed problems, keep soil 
temperature lower and reduce watering needs.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PROPAGATION                                   
-DOC-
                                  PROPAGATION 
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
     Geraniums can be started from cuttings 3 inches long taken from the end 
of the stems.  One or two leaves should be left on the top of the cutting and 
the lower leaves can be removed.  They will develop roots when placed on sand 
or a sand:peat moss mixture (no more than 50% peat moss).  The cuttings can be 
rooted in a flat or directly in a pot.  The bottom of the cutting should be 
placed 1-1 1/2 inches deep in the rooting medium.  The cuttings will root in 
3-4 weeks if they are placed in an east or north facing window and kept moist 
without being excessively wet.  After the cuttings are rooted, they should be 
transplanted to a small pot (2" to 4" pot) and placed in bright light to allow 
further root development before planting outdoors.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRUNING                                     
-DOC-
                                    PRUNING 
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
     Plants can be encouraged to develop more compact growth and more flowers 
by carefully cutting back 1/3 to 1/2 of the stems in late summer.  This 
pruning will result in better fall flowers.  If better branching is needed any 
time during the growing season, the stems should be pinched just above a node 
on the stem.  Removing faded or dried flower heads as soon as possible will 
make plants more attractive as well as encourage better flowering.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TURFGRASS VARIETY RECOMMENDATIONS SUMMARY                   
-DOC-
                   TURFGRASS VARIETY RECOMMENDATIONS SUMMARY
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
(P) Piedmont; (UP) Upper Piedmont; (CP) Entire Coastal Plain; (SH) Sandhills; 
(Af) Athletic field; (Gg) Golf greens only; (Wc) Overseeding for winter cover; 
(Hm) High maintenance; (Sh) Shade only; (Sp) Sprigged or plugged; (Se) Seed; 
(So) Sod; (Wh) Winter hardy.
 
BAHIAGRASS (Roadsides, Parks, SH, CP, Se):  Pensacola
 
BENTGRASS (Gg, Se):  Penncross, Penneagle
 
BERMUDAGRASS (So, Sp): Common (Af, Se), Midiron (Wh, Sp, So, Af), Pee Dee 102 
     (Hm, Gg), Tifdwarf (Hm, Gg), Tifgreen (Hm, Gg), Tifgreen II (Hm), Tiflawn 
     (Af), Tifway, Tifway II, Tufcote (Sp, So, Af, Wh), U3 (Wh, Sp, So, Af), 
     Vamont (Wh, Sp, So, Af) 
 
CARPETGRASS (moist areas, Se):
 
CENTIPEDE (P, SH, CP, So, Sp):  common (Se), Oklawn, Tennessee Hardy (Wh)
RED FESCUE (Wc, UP, Se, Sh):  Barfalla, common, Jamestown, Dawson, Pennlawn
 
TALL FESCUE (P, Se):  Clemfine, Falcon, Finelawn I, Kenwell, Kenhy, Ky. 31, 
     Rebel
 
KENTUCKY BLUEGRASS (UP, Se, So):  Adelphi, Baron, Bonnie Blue, Vantage, Victa
 
RYEGRASS (Wc, Se):
 
     Perennial - Derby, Manhattan, Pennfine, Yorktown
     Annual - common
     Intermediate - Oregreen
 
SEASHORE PASPALUM - Adalayd (Sp)
 
ST. AUGUSTINE (Charleston grass) (CP, SH, Sp, So):  Floratine, Floratam,
                                                    Raleigh (Wh), Texas 
                                                    common, Seville
 
ZOYSIA (Hm, So, Sp):  Emerald, Matrella, Meyer
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SITE SELECTION                                     
-DOC-
                                SITE SELECTION     
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
Petunias are effectively used in border plantings, window boxes, patio planter 
boxes and hanging baskets.  A site which gets at least a half day of sun is 
essential for effective flowering.  In the heat of the southeast summers, 
petunias suffer greatly and protection from afternoon sun and heat will extend 
the flowering season.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VARIETY SELECTIONS                               
-DOC-
                              VARIETY SELECTIONS 
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
Petunias (Petunia hybrida) are free-flowering annuals featuring a wide range 
of flower colors.  There are over 500 varieties of petunia ranging from 6-18 
inches tall and trailing (cascading) as well as compact forms. 
 
There are several grouping of petunias based on flower type.  The multifloras 
have an abundance of flowers and are quite showy.  There are single and double 
flowered forms of multiflora.  The double flowered types do not hold up as 
well as singles in the landscape because of wind and rain.  Grandiflora, as 
the name suggests, single types have larger flowers than the multifloras.  
They often have flowers in excess of 3 inches across and may have ruffled 
edges.  Grandiflora doubles do not hold up well in the southeast heat.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PLANTING                                      
-DOC-
                                   PLANTING   
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
Buy only high quality, healthy plants from a reputable retailer.   Petunias 
should be planted after all danger from frost has passed.  In poor soils a 3-4 
inch layer of organic material should be thoroughly worked into the upper 8 
inches of soil before planting.  Fertilizer and lime should be incorporated  
into the soil at planting.  Soil must be well drained for optimal growth and 
flowering of petunias.  Remove the petunia plants from their container 
carefully, but do not pull on the stem or roots may be injured. Care must be 
taken not to plant the petunias too deeply.  They should be planted at the 
same depth that they were in the container.  The soil should be gently firmed 
around the root system after planting and the plants should then be thoroughly 
watered in.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FERTILIZATION                                   
-DOC-
                                 FERTILIZATION  
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
To accurately apply lime and fertilizer, a soil test should be run.  If no 
soil test is run, 1 to 2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer can be incorporated 
into each 100 square feet of bed area.  Fertilize petunias every month with 1 
pound of 10-10-10 per 100 square feet.  The fertilizer should be sprinkled 
evenly on top of the soil with care being taken not to get it on the foliage.  
The fertilizer should then be watered into the soil.  It is a good idea to 
fertilize just after pruning plants to promote more lush growth.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WATER MANAGEMENT                                 
-DOC-
                               WATER MANAGEMENT  
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
Petunias should not be overwatered.  The soil should be allowed to dry 
slightly between waterings, but the plants should not be allowed to wilt. 
Watering will be more frequent during the midsummer.  Care should be taken not 
to allow water to get on the foliage when irrigating and watering should take 
place early in the day if possible.  If a 2 -3 inch mulch is applied watering 
and weeding will be reduce.  Mulching also reduces soil temperature in the 
summer and allows for better plant performance.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PROPAGATION                                     
-DOC-
                                  PROPAGATION   
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
Petunias are grown from seed.  It takes about 10 weeks to produce a flowering 
plant from seed.  The seed are very small and difficult for the hobbyist to 
handle.  Plants can be obtained from cuttings but this method is not common.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRUNING                                      
-DOC-
                                    PRUNING  
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
If plants are poorly branched at planting time, they should have the terminal 
1/2 inch of growth pinched out.  If occassional pruning of long stems is 
practiced, the petunia will be more compact in its growth and will produce 
more and better flowers.  When pruning approximately 1/2 of the original stem 
length should be removed.  Removal of old flowers will promote better future 
flowering.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TURF PUBLICATIONS                               
-DOC-
                               TURF PUBLICATIONS
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
CLEMSON UNIVERSITY EXTENSION SERVICE
 
     EC 528  Cool-Season Grasses for S.C. Piedmont Lawns, Rep. April 1985, 
             21p.
 
     EC 547  Warm-Season Lawn Grasses for S.C., Rep. October 1986, 24p.
 
     EC 583  Centipedegrass and Its Problems, Rev. August 1986, 13p.
 
     EC 582  Prevent Lawn Mower Accidents, Rep. April 1983, 5p.
 
     IC 122  Turfgrass Disease Control Guide, Rev. July 1985, 10p.
 
     EC 477  1987 Recommended Varieties for South Carolina, Rev. August 1986, 
             15p.  See pages 13-14.
 
     EC 580  Irrigating Your Lawn and Garden
TURF BOOKS
 
     BEAUTIFUL LAWN
     James B. Beard  1975
     Intertec Publishing Corporation
     Kansas City, MO
 
     THE LAWN BOOK
     L.N. Wise  1961
     W.R. Thompson
     Box 279
     State College, MS
 
     LAWNS AND GROUND COVERS
     By the Sunset Editorial Staff  1964
     A Sunset Book
     Lane Books
     Menlo Park, CA
     DISEASES OF TURFGRASSES
     Houston B. Couch  1973
     Robert E. Krieger Publishing Co., Inc.
     Box 542
     Huntington, NY  11973
 
     WEED CONTROL AS A SCIENCE
     G.C. Klingman  1961
     John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
     New York, NY
 
     DESTRUCTIVE TURF INSECTS
     Dr. Harry Niemczyk
     Entomologist  1981
     The Gray Printing Co.
     Fostoria, OH  44830
     TURFGRASS MANAGEMENT
     Dr. A.J. Turgeon  1980
     Reston Publishing Co.
     A Prentice-Hall Co.
     Reston, VA  22090
 
     INFORMATION MANUAL FOR LAWNS,  1979
     The O.M. Scott & Sons Co.
     Marysville, OH  43041
 
JOURNAL ARTICLES
 
     Centipedegrass Tolerance to Postemergence Grass Herbicides.  L.B. 
     McCarty, J.M. Higgins, L.C. Miller, and T. Whitwell. Department of 
     Horticulture, Clemson University, Clemson, SC 29634  HortScience 21 
     (6):1405-1407.  1986. 
 
     Bentgrass and Bermudagrass Putting Green Turf Tolerance to Postemergence 
     Herbicides.  J.M. Higgins, L.B. McCarty, T. Whitwell, and L.C. Miller, 
     Department of Horticulture, Clemson University, Clemson, SC 29634.  
     HortScience 22(2):248-250.  1987.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PRUNING                                    
-DOC-
                                    PRUNING
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
Faded flowers should be pinched off to encourage more flowers and to improve 
plant appearance.  Any discolored or damaged foliage should also be removed.  
Plants may be staked to prevent stem breakage in summer winds.  Leggy plants 
can be cut back 1/3 to 1/2 of their height to encourage better growth.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PROPAGATION                                  
-DOC-
                                  PROPAGATION
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
Tuberous begonias can be grown from seed but the seed are so tiny that 
germination is usually poor for the hobbyist.  While the easiest way to 
increase plants is to buy more tubers or finished plants, they can also be 
vegetatively propagated.  Take cuttings and place them in a 50:50 peat:perlite 
soil mix and cover with a clear plastic bag or glass jar.  Keep the cuttings 
in a bright light location but out of any direct sunlight until they are 
rooted. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WATER MANAGEMENT                               
-DOC-
                               WATER MANAGEMENT
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
Plants should be watered when the soil begins to dry.  The tubers will rot if 
they are overwatered.  Watering should take place in the morning if possible 
so that any water which gets on the foliage will have time to dry before 
evening.  Wet foliage increases the chance of disease.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FERTILIZATION                                 
-DOC-
                                 FERTILIZATION
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
A soil test should be run to determine the pH and fertility of your particular 
site.  If no soil test is run, the general recommendations for fertilizaton of 
tuberous begonias is to incorporate 10-10-10 or another general purpose 
fertilizer at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet at planting.  The plants 
should then be fertilized with a surface application once a month at the rate 
of 1 pound per 100 square feet.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PLANTING                                   
-DOC-
                                   PLANTING
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
Purchase only high quality, firm tubers.  Tubers can be started early indoors 
1 month before the frost free date for your area by planting them in flats or 
pots filled with a 50:50 mixture of moist peat moss and perlite.  The 
depressed side of the tuber should be facing up.  The tubers should be 
sprouted at 70 degrees in the dark.  As soon as the shoots develop, cover the 
tubers with more peat moss and move the plants to a bright location such as a 
sunny window.  The young plants should not be transplanted outdoors until all 
danger of frost has passed.  Before planting outdoors, the soil should be 
thoroughly prepared.  Organic matter such as peatmoss or compost should be 
incorporated into the upper 8-10 inches of poor soils to improve plant 
performance.  Good drainage is essential for success with this crop.  After 
the frost free date, plants or unsprouted tubers should be planted directly 
into the landscape.  When planting, the tuber should be just slightly below 
the soil line because they rot easily when planted too deep.  A minimum 18 
inch spacing is recommended to allow the plant to fill out properly.  After 
planting, do not cultivate around the root system or fibrous roots will be 
damaged. 
After the first fall frost, the tubers should be dug and the foliage removed.  
Dry the tubers for a few days and store them overwinter by placing them in 
dry peat moss or sawdust in a paper bag at about 50 degrees.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VARIETY SELECTION                                
-DOC-
                               VARIETY SELECTION 
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
Tuberous begonias (Begonia x tuberhybrida) are outstanding summer flowering 
plants which come in shades of white, pink, red, yellow, orange, salmon and 
bicolors.  The large flowers are usually double and may be 6 inches or more in 
diameter.  Plants generally grow 12-18 inches tall and bloom throughout the 
summer.  The foliage is glossy and attractive.  There are camellia, ruffled 
camellia and rosebud type flowers as well as a pendulus hanging basket form.  
The hanging basket form has smaller more numerous flowers than the more erect 
types.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SITE SELECTION                                
-DOC-
                                SITE SELECTION
                    John W. Kelly, Extension Horticulturist
 
Tuberous begonias do best in a location that is partial to full shade.  In 
the southeastern part of the U.S. direct sun will ruin this plant.  They must 
have well drained soil to thrive in the landscape.  They make excellent patio 
plants in containers, and there are some outstanding hanging basket types.  
Tuberous begonias do not perform well in high heat areas during the summer.  
They should be placed in a cool, shady location.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
VARIETY SELECTION FOR ZOYSIA                         
-DOC-
                         VARIETY SELECTION FOR ZOYSIA
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
Zoysia japonica is the only zoysia that can be seeded.  It can also be 
sprigged, plugged, or sodded; however, vegetative stock is not readily 
available.  It has the coarsest leaf of the commercially available zoysias, 
has a deep green color, and is considered to be drought-and cold-resistant.  
Late winter (January-February) seeding is preferred since the seed require 
approximately 45-90 days to germinate.  Vegetative planting is preferred to 
seeding as seed germination is erratic.  If seeded, the seedbed should be 
mulched to prevent loss of seed during heavy rains.
 
Zoysia matrella is one of the most beautiful lawn grasses suitable for South 
Carolina soils and climate.  Like all other zoysias, it is dormant and brown 
during the winter.  It is intermediate in cold hardiness; better than Emerald 
but less hardy than Z. japonica and Meyer.  It has a fine leaf blade, is dark 
green in color, and must be established by sprigs, plugs, or sod.  It is no
longer available at turfgrass nurseries.
Zoysia japonica var. Meyer is a selected strain of Zoysia japonica.  As with 
Matrella and Emerald, Meyer must be established by sprigs, plugs, or sod.  Of 
all zoysias, Meyer is perhaps the most easily maintained.  It retains color 
longer than Emerald or Matrella when cold weather arrives and will regain 
color earlier in the spring.  Leaf texture is intermediate between Emerald and 
Z. japonica.  Meyer is available at many S.C. turfgrass nurseries.
 
Emerald (Selection from Zoysia tenuifolia x Z. japonica) has the finest leaf 
texture and the most striking color of all zoysias.  Because of its extremely 
dense habit of growth, it is more trouble to maintain.  Emerald is available 
at a few S.C. turfgrass nurseries.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ST. AUGUSTINEGRASS VARIETIES                         
-DOC-
                         ST. AUGUSTINEGRASS VARIETIES
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
The variety Bitter Blue was selected over 25 years ago by tradespeople in 
Florida for improved characteristics over common St. Augustinegrass.  Bitter 
Blue has shroter internodes; shorter, more narrow leaves; greater leaf 
density; and closer growing habit than common type.  It has an attractive 
bluegreen color, good shade tolerance, and frost resistance.  It does not 
tolerate continuous wear by traffic.
 
Variety Floratine was released by the Florida Agricultural Experiment Station 
in 1959.  It was selected for fine texture, low growth, and attractive 
bluegreen color as improvements over Bitter Blue.  Floratine is tolerant (not 
resistant) to damaged by chinch bugs.
 
Floratam St. Augustinegrass is a newer variety available.  Its two most 
important characteristics are resistance to St. Augustine decline virus 
disease and high resistance to chinch bug injury.  Floratam was released 
jointly in 1973 by both Florida and Texas Agricultural Experiment Stations.  
Under average fertilization the color of Floratam is not quite as good as 
Bitter Blue or Floratine but is better than common.  Stems of newly planted 
Floratam will be purplish red, but as a thicker sod is formed, the wide leaves 
will cover the stolons and red color will not be evident.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BULLETIN BOARD                                
-DOC-
 
                                BULLETIN BOARD
                 G. Ansel King, Jr., Extension Horticulturist
                          
 
WHAT'S THE WEATHER BEEN LIKE IN ............................ 375112.00001
"GREEN THUMB COMPANION LETTER".............................. 375112.00002
ALL ABOUT GARDEN ORNAMENTS.................................. 375112.00003
HUGE PLASTIC POTS........................................... 375112.00004
GUTTER GROWING.............................................. 375112.00005
GINKGO LOVERS, UNITE!....................................... 375112.00006
A WOOD PRESERVATIVE FOR USE AROUND PLANTS .................. 375112.00007
 
 
To view specific subject matter, press F1 7; then enter page number.
 
 
 
 
                      WHAT'S THE WEATHER BEEN LIKE IN ...
 
... most any town in the U.S.?  You can find out by checking the "Weekly 
Weather and Crop Bulletin," published jointly by the U.S. Department of 
Agriculture and the U.S. Department of Commerce.  Other features include a 
monthly agricultural summary and a national weather and crop summary.  An 
annual subscription costs $25 (make checks payable to the U.S. Department of 
Commerce) from WWCB, NOAA/USDA Joint Agricultural Weather Facility, USDA South 
Building, Room 5844, Washington, DC  20250.
 
 
                        "GREEN THUMB COMPANION LETTER"
 
 
This is a new bimonthly for houseplant growers.  Each issue has articles on 
growing specific plants, general cultural tips, a "Plant Pen Pals" column, and 
a directory of suppliers.  For a one-year subscription, send $12.75 to:  GTC, 
P.O. Box 67, Prescott, IA  50859.
 
 
                          ALL ABOUT GARDEN ORNAMENTS
 
The latest Brooklyn Botanic Garden Handbook, Garden Ornaments, is filled with 
advice on choosing useful and decorative objects for gardens of every 
description.  For a copy, send $4.75 to Brooklyn Botanic Garden, 1000 
Washington Ave., Brooklyn, NY  11225.  Ask for Handbook #113.
 
 
                               HUGE PLASTIC POTS
 
Molded black polyethylene growing containers in sizes from 20 to 200 (!!) 
gallons are available from Chem-Tainer Industries, Inc., 361 Neptune Ave., 
North Babylon, NY  11704.  Send for a free price list.
 
 
                                GUTTER GROWING
 
A commercial flower grower in Illinois has discovered that aluminum gutters 
(available at hardware and lumber stores) make great inexpensive overhead 
holders for plants in 4" pots, saving valuable main bench space.  The gutters 
can easily be suspended from greenhouse rafters or framing, and they can also 
be pop-riveted together to make double trays.
 
 
                             GINKGO LOVERS, UNITE!
 
If your appreciation of ginkgo trees goes beyond mere fondness, contact the 
Golden Fossil Society, 201 West Graham, Lombard, IL  60148.  There is even a 
Ginkgo Hunter of the Year award for finding out-of-the-way specimens.
 
 
                   A WOOD PRESERVATIVE FOR USE AROUND PLANTS
 
"CNS" and "ZNS" napthenate wood preservatives are made specifically for 
greenhouse use.  The manufacturer claims that they are "not harmful to plant 
or animal life," but repel insects and bacteria and inhibit mildew and wood 
rot fungi.  For more information, contact:  Continental Products Co., 1150 E. 
222nd St., Euclid, OH  44117.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MUSTARD, PLANTING	                               
-DOC-
                               MUSTARD, PLANTING	
              Jon R. Johnson, Assistant Professor of Horticulture	
      	
                                    Planting Date
                             Spring               Fall	
      Piedmont          Feb. 1-March 15       Aug. 15 - Sept.15	
      Central           Jan. 15-Feb. 25       Aug. 15-Oct. 1	
      Coastal           Jan. 1-Feb.25         Aug. 15-Oct. 1	
      	
Space mustard rows 30 inches apart with 2 inches between plants in the row.  
Plant seed at the rate of 0.5 oz/100 ft of row.  Plant seed 0.5 inches deep. 	
 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BERMUDAGRASSES                                
-DOC-
                                BERMUDAGRASSES
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
Common Bermuda (Cynodon dactylon) is one of the most widely used lawn grasses 
in South Carolina.  It is drought resistant and thrives and spreads on most 
soil types.  Common bermuda does not grow well in shade or partial shade; it 
becomes dormant in winter and will spread to flower beds if not controlled.  
Common bermuda lawns may be established by seeding, sprigging, plugging, or 
sodding.  Under controlled fertilization, irrigation, and mowing, common 
bermuda does well as a lawn and athletic field grass.
 
Hybrid Bermudas - These are superior to common bermuda as a lawn grass.  But, 
like common bermuda, they are adapted only to sunny locations.  They produce 
no viable seed and must be sprigged, plugged, or sodded.  To insure coverage, 
sprig as early as possible after the last killing frost.  To insure against 
winter killing, do not attempt sprigging after August 15 in the Piedmont and 
September 1 in the lower part of South Carolina.  The hybrid bermudas are 
considered high maintenance grasses; this means you must fertilize, mow, 
irrigate, and control weeds and insects periodically to justify choosing such 
a grass.
Following is a brief description of these hybrid bermudas.
 
Tifgreen:  A hybrid between a superior clone from a golf green at Charlotte, 
N.C., Country Club, and Cynodon transvaalensis from East Lakes Golf Course in 
Atlanta, Ga.  It is an excellent grass for golf greens, where high maintenance 
is a daily routine.  If you are willing to follow the high maintenance 
procedures, then Tifgreen is a good choice for home lawns.  Some of these 
procedures include high fertilization, frequent mowing, periodic thinning, and 
aeration.  Tifgreen has a fine texture, dark green color, and is a fast-
growing grass.
 
Tiflawn:  A hybrid of two selections of bermudagrass with desirable turf 
qualities from pasture breeding research at Georgia Coastal Plain Experiment 
Station.  This is an aggressive, disease-resistant hybrid particularly 
recommended for areas of excessive wear, such as playgrounds, football and 
athletic fields.  It is not as fine-textured as Texturf 10, Tifgreen, or 
Sunturf, but it does make a beautiful dense turf and requires less 
fertilization.
Tifway:  A hybrid between Cynodon dactylon and C. transvallensis.  Although 
this grass was primarily intended for golf courses fairways and tees, it makes 
a good lawn grass.  It is slightly coarser than Tifgreen, has a dark green 
color and has disease and weed resistance.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SPECIAL STATEMENT ON CENTIPEDEGRASS FERTILIZATION               
-DOC-
               SPECIAL STATEMENT ON CENTIPEDEGRASS FERTILIZATION
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
Because centipedegrass responds to more acid soil conditions than most of the 
other popular lawn grasses, take care not to overlime it.  If the soil becomes 
alkaline in reaction, centipdegrass will be among the first grasses to show a 
yellowish chlorotic condition - a result of iron deficiency.  This can be 
corrected temporarily by spraying the turf with a solution containing 1 
tablespoonful of iron sulfate in 2 gallons of water per 50 square feet (3 oz. 
per 1,000 sq.ft.).  New chelated iron compounds are showing great promise in 
correcting iron deficiencies.  Iron deficiency is sometimes confused with 
nitrogen deficiency.  Adjusting the soil pH is the best method to correct iron 
deficiency.
 
Centipedegrass thrives on light fertilization.  High phosphorous levels in the 
soil are harmful.  Therefore, use fertilizers high in nitrogen and low in 
phosphorous.  Repeatedly using 1-2-2 and 1-3-3 ratio fertilizers will lead to 
high phosphorous levels and minor element problems.
Recent research indicates that centipedegrass should be sparingly fertilized 
with nitrogen.  Use just enough nitrogen to maintain a light green color.  To 
fertilize at rates used on grasses such as bermuda or zoysia promotes too much 
growth.  And after several years the centipedegrass begins dying in patches 
because of excessive thatch accumulation.  Broadcast only one-half pound of 
actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet or 3 to 4 pounds 16-4-8 (50% slowly 
soluble nitrogen) per 1,000 square feet in the spring after new growth begins.  
Avoid late summer fertilization.  The complete fertilizer 16-4-8 has a 4-1-2 
ratio that is appropriate for all turf grasses.  However, 16-4-8 is not 
available at all garden outlets in S.C.  A comparable ratio, such as 3-1-2, 3-
3-1-1, or 5-1-2, can also be used.
 
                     CARE OF ESTABLISHED WARM-SEASON GRASS LAWNS
 
As a general rule, you can consider your lawn "established" when you no longer 
see the soil through the grass blades.  Then use the maintenance procedures in 
this section to keep your lawn healthy. 
TAKING SOIL SAMPLES    
 
The following instructions apply for turf soils, lawns, athletic fields, golf 
courses, parks and cemeteries:
 
1.  Get soil sample box and record sheet from your local county Extension 
agent's office.
2.  Using a tube, auger, shovel, or trowel and a clean pail, take cores, thin 
slices, or borings from 10 to 15 places in the lawn.  Sample to a 3-inch soil 
depth.  Place soil in the pail and mix thoroughly.  Do not include thatch on 
top of the soil.  Fill the soil sample box with the soil mixture and discard 
the remainder.
Follow the diagram below to locate the individual samples.
 
        XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
        X                                                       X
        X     X              X              X             X     X
        X                                                       X
        X             X              X            X             X
        X                                                       X
        X     X              X              X             X     X
        X                                                       X
        XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
 
3.  Number and label the soil samples.  Each box should be plainly marked as 
to area or field number samples.
4.  If the lawn varies in soil type, previous fertilizer or lime treatments, 
sample each area separately.  Only one composite sample representative of the 
entire area is needed per individual lawn.
5.  Fill in the information required on record sheet and mail or take the 
record sheet and soil sample to your local county Extension agent.
6.  To avoid delay in getting soil-test results by return mail from your local 
county Extension agent, submit lawn soil samples in summer and early fall 
months.
 
FERTILIZING AND LIMING
 
To maintain your lawn properly, apply all fertilizer and lime according to 
soil test results.
 
Follow the soil-sampling instructions and take or mail the samples to your 
local county agent for analyses and subsequent fertilizer and/or liming 
recommendations.  Soil samples should be taken at least once a year.  By 
submitting the samples before January for analysis, results and recommendations 
can be made so that fertilization and liming may be carried out in the early 
spring.
If soil samples are not taken, the general suggestions in the following table 
"Fertilizing Established Warm-Season* Grass Lawns" may be considered.  Make 
fall application no later than the following dates:
 
                        September 15  -  Piedmont Area
                        October 1     -  Sandhill Area
                        October 15    -  Coastal Area
                                     TABLE
               FERTILIZING ESTABLISHED WARM-SEASON* GRASS LAWNS
______________________________________________________________________________                                             
 
                                                 Application per 1,000 sq. ft.
                                                 _____________________________
                                                                     Amount of            
Time               Material                      Rate of N            material
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                 Pounds               Pounds
Spring             16-4-8 (50 to 60% S.A.N.)+    2 to 2.5             12 to 15
Early summer       16-4-8 (50 to 60% S.A.N.)     2 to 2.5             12 to 15
                    or nitrogen source
                   (Ammonium nitrate)              1                     3
Late summer        16-4-8 (50 to 50% S.A.N.)     2 to 2.5             12 to 15
_______________________________________________________________________________
*For centipedegrass and carpetgrass use only one-fourth the maintenance rate 
 of 16-4-8.  Do not apply in late summer.
+Any grade with a 4-1-2 or comparable ratio may be used if the rate is 
 adjusted proportionately and it contains 50 to 60% slowly available nitrogen 
 (S.A.N.).
You may need to apply additional nitrogen in some cases.  For proper color and 
vigor, nitrogen is probably the most important fertilizer element.  Lack of 
proper levels of phosphorus and potassium in the soil will be less evident.  
For this reason make at least two of the fertilizer applications with a 
complete fertilizer such as 16-4-8.  The optimum pH for centipedegrass and 
carpetgrass is 5.5 and 6.0.  All other warm-season grasses require a pH of 
approximately 6.5.  Soil-test results will indicate the pH of your soil. 
 
Agricultural or dolomitic limestone is used to maintain the pH in the proper 
range and furnish needed calcium and magnesium for the grass.  Limestone is 
normally applied at rates from 25 to 100 pounds per 1,000 square feet.  
However, don't guess; soil test.  Know the soil pH and proper rate of 
limestone to broadcast to adjust the acidity.
 
If the grass does not respond to nitrogen fertilizer and limestone, there 
could be other nutrient deficiencies.
 
Many sandy soils do not retain sufficient iron.
 
IRON DEFICIENCY
Iron-deficient grass will be light green to yellow.  Applying 3 ounces of iron 
sulfate in 3 to 5 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet will correct iron 
deficiency symptoms.
 
WATERING
 
Discontinue the practice of light, daily application of water.  Less frequent 
but deeper watering is in order after the grass is established to develop and 
maintain a deep-rooted lawn.  Daily sprinkling encourages a shallow root 
system, which suffers during periods of low rainfall.
 
When to water is something that each homeowner must determine because of local 
rainfall, type of soil, and type of grass.  Wilting of the grass during the 
hot part of day is a good indication that water is needed.  On heavier soils 
apply water slowly to prevent runoff and to insure deep penetration of 4-6 
inches.  This may require 8 hours or more of continuous watering in certain 
areas of the state.  Under average summer conditions, such irrigation may be 
required but once or twice during the summer.  Those areas characterized by 
sandy soils will not require as much water or time to reach the same depth, 
but more frequent applications may be necessary.
For additional information on watering and irrigation system design, consult 
Circular 580, Irrigating Your Lawn and Garden, Clemson University Extension 
Service.
 
MOWING
 
Proper mowing can mean the difference between an attractive and an ordinary 
lawn.  Even though the lawn is watered and fertilized correctly, improper 
cutting can cause a poor appearance and in many cases weaken the stand of 
grass.
 
In general, the finer the leaf texture the closer the grass can be mowed.  
Even though a fine-textured grass is mowed closely, there will be enough leaf 
blades left to manufacture food.  This would not hold true for grasses such as 
centipede and St. Augustine, which are medium- to coarse-textured as most of 
the leaf surface would be removed if grass were cut low.  In this case, too 
much of the food-manufacturing surface would be cut away, and the grass would 
recover slowly because of low food reserves.  Recommended cutting heights of 
individual grasses are given in the following table:
                                     TABLE
                       CUTTING HEIGHTS FOR LAWN GRASSES
______________________________________________________________________________
                       Height                                        Height
Grass                  (inches)                Grass                 (inches)            
______________________________________________________________________________
Bermudagrasses         0.5-1.0           St. Augustinegrass           1.5-2.5
  Common               0.5-1.0           Zoysia grasses
  Tifgreen             0.5-1.0                Emerald                 0.5-1.0
  Tiflawn              0.5-1.0                Meyer                   0.5-1.0
  Tifway               0.5-1.0                Z. matrella             0.5-1.0
Carpetgrass            1.0-1.5                Z. japonica             0.5-1.0
Centipedegrass         1.0-1.5
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
The most damaging mowing practice is extreme and sudden reduction of height.  
A sudden and severe change in height upsets the balance between leaf and root 
growth.  As a result injury usually occurs.  Extreme reduction in height also 
results in a scalped appearance.  If the lawn grass becomes too tall, reduce 
the height gradually until the recommended height is reached.
Mow grasses in the shade higher than normally suggested.
 
MOWING FREQUENCY
 
Frequency of mowing depends on the rate of growth of the individual grass.  If 
a 1 inch height is maintained, mow when the grass reaches a height of 1.5 
inch.  Generally never remove more grass than is left.
 
When mowing established lawns, collect the clippings.  By eliminating thatch 
and/or mat (accumulation of dead organic material at the soil level), you will 
reduce the possibility of disease and insect problems.  And fertilizer and 
water can penetrate more readily into the root zone. 
 
ROTARY MOWER
 
It is important to keep the cutting blades sharp.  Rotary mower blades are 
easily removed and sharpened with a grinding stone or file.  The blade should 
be inspected and possibly sharpened before each use.  A sharp blade will make 
a clean, smooth cut.  A dull blade will tear the grass blades and leave rough, 
ragged edges that turn brown after drying.  A lawn mowed with a dull blade 
will have a tan to brown cast over the surface a few days later.
REEL MOWER
 
Reel mowers cut with a scissors-type action.  When the bed knife is smooth and 
reel blades are sharp, a clean cut will result.  Dull blades crush and tear 
the grass leaves resulting in a brownish cast over the lawn.
 
Many older bermuda and zoysia lawns show a tan cast following each mowing as a 
result of being mowed at the same height for several years.  The grass leaves 
are cut back to brown stems each time.  Slightly varying the mowing height 
will help correct this.
 
In the spring lower the mowing height by 1/4 to 1/2 inch for the first time 
over.  Then raise the height for subsequent mowing.  If the brown stubble 
appears later in the summer, repeat the process of varying the mowing height.
 
Well-fertilized older lawns will have accumulated a layer of mat or thatch 
over the years.  Mower wheels sink into the soft mat.  The mowing height is 
effectively lowered below green leaves exposing brown stems.  When this 
occurs, it is definitely time to remove the excess thatch accumulation  (See 
following section on removing thatch.)
REMOVING THATCH
 
Thatch or mat is the accumulation of dead leaves, stems, stolons, or rhizomes 
at or just beneath the soil level.  This condition is caused by over-
fertilization, improper mowing height, excess use of pesticides, and/or 
failure to collect clippings.  Exess thatch is highly undesirable because it 
reduces water, lime, fertilizer, and pesticide penetration into the soil.  
Also insects and disease-producing organisms thrive in thatch or mat.  
Eliminate such an accumulation from your lawn.  Thatch in excess of 1/4 inch 
thick is considered undesirable. 
 
Before thinning, mow the lawn to the proper height.  Thatch removal (thinning) 
is best accomplished with a power-driven mower that uses vertically mounted 
blades.  The depth of blade penetration into the soil is manually adjustable; 
so thatch or mat may be removed efficiently without serious injury to the 
lawn.
 
Another way to remove thatch is with a stiff rake.  But use a rake only as a 
last resort or where the area involved is small.
Bermudagrass may be thinned from dormancy (February-March) through summer (no 
later than mid-August).  If thinnned in April or May, avoid severe thinning.  
Do not thin after mid-August because the new growth is likely to be tender and 
therefore more susceptible to winter injury.  If the thatch problem is 
exceptionally bad, run the thinning machine in two or more directions.
 
Because of the slow rate of recovery from thinning operations, thin the 
zoysias early in the season, certainly no later than mid-July.  They may be 
thinned during dormancy (February-March); and, if the thatch or mat is dense, 
thin the lawn in two or three directions.
 
From information presently available, thin centipede, carpet and St. Augustine 
only after they have recovered fully from dormancy.  Until further information 
becomes available, confine thinning in one direction only.  And do not thin 
after the first of July.
 
After thatch has been removed, it is important to provide plenty of water and 
proper fertility to promote recovery of healthy turf.  Follow fertilizer 
recommendations based on a soil test or suggestions in the table, Fertilizing 
Established Warm-Season Lawns.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ASPARAGUS, VARIETY SELECTION	                          
-DOC-
                          ASPARAGUS, VARIETY SELECTION	
              Jon R. Johnson, Assistant Professor of Horticulture	
	
Mary Washington is the recommended variety.  This variety produces large, tight 
tips that are light green with a purple overcast.  It is resistant to fusarium 
rust and tolerant to fusarium wilt.  This variety is suitable for canning and 
freezing.	 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HORTICULTURAL DIGEST                             
-DOC-
 
                             HORTICULTURAL DIGEST
                 G. Ansel King, Jr., Extension Horticulturist
 
KEEP PRODUCE UPRIGHT FOR BEST STORAGE............................ 375210.00001
YES, THERE ARE SOME ALMOST DISEASE-FREE LANDSCAPE TREES!......... 375210.00002
YOU CAN USE ROW COVERS UNWISELY.................................. 375210.00005
LOW GERMINATION TEMPERATURES AND EARLY LETTUCE BOLTING........... 375210.00008
"SWEETHEART" SOAP TO DETER DEER BROWSING ON TREES................ 375210.00009
MORE ON MERCURY IN PAINTS AND INTERIOR PLANT PROBLEMS............ 375210.00010
PERENNIALS FOR THE DEEP SOUTH.................................... 375210.00011
PINE AS A HEDGE.................................................. 375210.00013
INFRARED INSECT MONITORS BEING TESTED............................ 375210.00014
U-PICK OPERATIONS MAY WORK BEST IN THE SUBURBS................... 375210.00015
TO AID ROOTING OF ROSE CUTTINGS.................................. 375210.00016
EARLIER FLOWERING FROM SALTY PUMPKIN SEEDS....................... 375210.00017
"...PART OF THE YUPPIE IMAGE..."................................. 375210.00018
 
 
To view specific subject matter, press F1 7; then enter page number.
 
                     KEEP PRODUCE UPRIGHT FOR BEST STORAGE
 
Japanese researchers stored asparagus spears, spinach leaves tied in bundles, 
and corn-on-the-cob in either vertical or horizontal orientations (the former 
approximated the "natural" orientation while growing), and they stored apples 
either with their stems up, with their stems down, or alternating between the 
two orientations at weekly intervals.  In general, produce quality was 
retained best when kept in the "normal" orientation.
 
Reference:  Abstract 5581, Horticultural Abstracts 57(7), 586.
 
 
           YES, THERE ARE SOME ALMOST DISEASE-FREE LANDSCAPE TREES!
 
Here's a list compiled by Dr. Balakrishna Rao, Director of Lawn Care Technical 
Resources for the Davey Tree Company, Kent, Ohio.  Note that some of these 
species may not be disease-prone, but are susceptible to insect damage or may 
have other problems.  Caution clients to check with their local extension 
agent regarding overall desirability of any of them for their location.
 
        Ailanthus alissima, tree-of-heaven
        Asimina triloba, pawpaw
        Carpinus caroliniana, American hornbeam
        Cedrela sinensis, Chinese cedrela
        Cedrus atlantica, atlas cedar
        Cedrus libani, cedar-of-lebanon
        Cephalotaxus Harringtonia var. drupacea, Japanese plum yew
        Cercidiphyllum japonicum, katsura tree
        Cladrastis lutea, yellowwood
        Corylus Colurna, Turkish filbert
        Cunninghamia lanceolata, China fir
        Davidia involucrata, dove tree
        Diospyros virginiana, American persimmon
        Eucommia ulmoides, eucommia
        Fagus gradifolia, American beech
        Fagus sylvatica, European beech
        Firmiana simplex, Chinese parasol tree
        Franklinia Alatamaha, Franklin tree
        Ginkgo biloba, ginkgo
        Gleditsia triacanthos, honeylocust
        Gymnocladus dioica, Kentucky coffee tree
        Halesia monticola, silver-bell
        Hovenia dulcis, Japanese raisin tree
        Kalopanax pictus, kalopanax
        Larix decidua, European larch
        Ligustrum lucidum, glossy privet
        Liquidambar Styraciflua, sweet gum
        Magnolia species, magnolias
        Nyssa sylvatica, tupelo
        Ostrya virginiana, American hop hornbeam
        Oxydendrum arboreum, sourwood
        Parrotia persica, parrotia
        Phellodendron species, cork trees
        Pseudolarix Kaempferi, golden larch
        Sassafras albidum, sassafras
        Sciadopitys verticillata, umbrella pine
        Stewartia species, stewartias
        Styrax species, snowbells
        Taxodium disticum var. distichum, bald cypress
        Taxus species, yews
        Torreya nucifera, kaya
 
Reference:  Balakrishna Rao, "Disease-Free Plants," Landscape Management 
96(9), September 1987, 96.  (Harcourt Brace Jovanovich Publications, 7500 Old 
Oak Blvd., Cleveland, OH  44130.)
 
 
                        YOU CAN USE ROW COVERS UNWISELY
 
 
... and end up with poorer results than if you hadn't used the covers at all, 
says Dr. Doug Sanders, Extension Horticultural Specialist at North Carolina 
State University.  Depending on whether you're using row covers to protect 
against frost, boost growing temperatures, or both, some of the wrong ways to 
use them can include putting them on too late in the season, leaving them on 
too long, and taking them off too early.  But timing isn't all you need to get 
right; the most important factor is picking the correct cover material and 
design for your situation -- and that's not easy when there are literally 
dozens of kinds of covers available!  The major types are listed below, with 
comments by Sanders on the advantages or disadvantages of each.
 
Clear Polyethylene, Hooped:  cheap and widely available; quite warm (can 
become too hot in some cases); labor-intensive installation and removal; poor 
frost protection.
 
Clear Polyethylene, Floating:  quite warm (can become too hot in some cases); 
less labor-intensive then hoop designs; poor frost protection.
Clear Polyethylene with Slits, Hooped or Floating:  as above, depending on 
design (hooped or floating), but with reduced chance of overheating; hard to 
install.
 
Perforated Clear Polyethylene, Hooped or Floating:  more chance or overheating 
than polyethylene with slits, but easier to install.
 
Spunbound Polyester, Floating:  easy installation and removal; low chance of 
overheating; can be abrasive to plants; expensive.
 
Spunbound Polypropylene, Floating:   low chance of overheating; good frost 
protection; not very abrasive to plants; expensive.
 
Extended Polypropylene, Floating:  available in very wide widths; easy to 
install; tears spread easily; poor frost protection.
 
Photodegradable polyethylene:  available with or without vents and hooped or 
floating; no removal necessary; can degrade too slowly or too quickly, 
depending on weather conditions.
The perfect row cover for all conditions (or even for most conditions) is yet 
to be designed.  We recommend that you talk with nearby growers who have had 
personal experience with various row covers before you decide which is for 
you.  And (especially the first season you use covers) be alert to high-
temperature conditions reuqiring you to remove the covers to avoid damage 
to the plants.
 
Reference:  Doug Sanders, "The Challenge of Row Covers," American Vegetable 
Grower 35(9), September 1987, 24-26.  (Meister Publishing Co., 37841 Euclid 
Ave., Willoughby, OH  44094.)
 
 
            LOW GERMINATION TEMPERATURES AND EARLY LETTUCE BOLTING        
 
 
In West Germany, a researcher has found that several lettuce cultivars tend to 
bolt early -- after reaching weights of only 0.4 to 0.8 pounds -- after being 
exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees F during the three-week period 
following sowing.  In general, the plants were most sensitive to low 
temperatures immediately after sowing, and they were relatively insensitive 
once they reached the one- to three-leaf seedling stage.
 
Reference:  Abstract 5455, Horticultural Abstracts 57(7), July 1987, 572.
 
               "SWEETHEART" SOAP TO DETER DEER BROWSING ON TREES
 
The idea of hanging soap in fruit trees to reduce deer browsing, based on its 
effectiveness, has become sufficiently institutionalized among commercial 
orchardists in Michigan so that it is now sold by Peach Ridge Orchard Supply, 
8405 Fruitridge Ave., Sparta, MI  49345.  The brand which works best, 
according to commercial orchardists, is "Sweetheart."  Good results have been 
achieved with various kinds of "deodorant" soaps (though groundhogs like to 
eat the bars).
 
Reference:  George V. Wescott, "Letters," MNGA News 39(3), September 1987, 4.  
(Michigan Nut Growers Association, c/o Michael O'Conner, 3250 Kingsbrooke Dr., 
Apt. 701, Jackson, MI  49202.)
 
             MORE ON MERCURY IN PAINTS AND INTERIOR PLANT PROBLEMS
 
Last year, horticulturists at the Univeristy of Florida Agricultural Research 
and Education Center, Apopka, discovered that certain interior foliage plants 
(notably Ficus and Dieffenbachia) are susceptible to mercury vapors released 
by some wall paints.  (Mercury, which is used to prevent mildew, is usually 
found only in paints which are locally marketed.  Nationally distributed 
paints are unlikely to contain mercury.)  In subsequent reserach, it has 
been determined that defoliation of Ficus can occur long after a mercury-
containing paint has been used.  One locally marketed paint was found to 
produce an initial mercury vapor concentration of 0.03 milligrams per cubic 
meter, which diminished slowly.  About 0.01 milligrams per cubic meter of 
mercury can cause plant damage.  Mercury vapor monitors are available from 
safety equipment suppliers such as 3M Co., Occupational Health and Safety 
Products Division, Bldg. 230-B, St. Paul, MN  55133.
 
Reference:  Anonymous, "Damaging Mercury Levels Outlined," Interior 
Landscaping Industry 4(9), September 1987, 18.  (American Nurseryman 
Publishing Co., 111 N. Canal St., Suite 545, Chicago, IL  60606.)
 
                         PERENNIALS FOR THE DEEP SOUTH
 
There aren't many perennials which are well suited to searing Gulf Coast 
temperatures.  Horticulturists at the University of Georgia have evaluated 
about 75 candidates over several seasons, giving them ratings based on their 
heat tolerance, floral display, and foliage attractiveness.  Here are the 
species given highest ratings: 
 
Aquilegia alpina (columbine) -- deep blue flowers produced for up to two 
months in the spring; height about 1.5 feet; few problems with insects and 
diseases.
 
Aster x Frikartii (wonder-of-staffal) -- violet-blue daisy-shaped flowers with 
yellow centers; height about 2.5 feet; for full sun.
 
Aster novae-angliae (New England aster) -- purple flowers; height about 3 
feet.
Iberis sempervirens (edging candytuft) -- evergreen subshrub with small white 
flowers; height about 1 foot; sometimes used as a groundcover.
 
Reference:  Janie Smith Choice, "Some Like it Hot," National Gardening 10(10), 
October 1987, 22-27, 43.  (National Gardening Association, 180 Flynn Ave., 
Burlington, VT  05401.)
 
 
                                PINE AS A HEDGE
 
Unusual, but lovely.  The white pine (Pinus Strobus) hedge at the North 
Carolina State University Arboretum is sheared once a year when the new growth 
is about half expanded to keep it shaped.  Another species to consider for 
hedging in the Southeast is scrub pine (Pinus virginiana).
 
Reference:  J.C. Raulston, "Is It Possible to Use Sheared White Pine as a 
Hedge?"  Garden Clinic, September 11, 1987, 2.  (Department of Agricultural 
Communications, North Carolina State University, Box 5037, Raleigh, NC  
27650.)
 
                     INFRARED INSECT MONITORS BEING TESTED
 
U.S. Department of Agriculture researchers in Texas are conducting in-field 
experiments with portable infrared sensors that signal activities of insects 
attracted by sex pheromone lures.  Such sensors, with pheromones appropriate 
for particular pest insects, might someday replace human scouts in integrated 
pest management programs.  The idea is to connect the sensors to personal 
computers for "real time" monitoring of insect populations.
 
Reference:  Anonymous, "Counting on a High-Tech Pest Patrol," Science News 
132, September 5, 1987, 158.
 
 
                U-PICK OPERATIONS MAY WORK BEST IN THE SUBURBS
 
Better think twice before establishing a pick-your-own enterprise out in the 
"boonies."  A recent Illinois study of U-pick strawberry farms has shown that 
about 350 customers are needed to pick an acre with average yields.  A four-
acre operation thus needs about 1400 customers, or participation of 20 to 30% 
of all households in an area with 10,000 people.  And a 10-acre operation 
needs a population base of about 30,000 people, assuming no competition.  The 
point is that pick-your-own businesses in general (the customer requirements 
probably aren's much different with other crops besides strawberries) aren't 
well suited to areas with low population densities.  
 
Reference:  Anonymous, "Illinois Pick-Your-Own Study," Great Lakes Fruit 
Growers News 26(9), September 1987, 5.  (P.O. Box 128, Sparta, MI  49345.)
 
 
                      TO AID ROOTING OF ROSE CUTTINGS...
 
...stick them in the refrigerator!  That's the advice of Washington rosarian 
Joseph Petta.  Rose hardwood cuttings form callus, from which new roots can 
develop, at low temperatures (around 40 degrees F).  By cooling the cuttings 
while callus forms, metabolism is slowed and the chances for drying out are 
reduced.  Put cuttings in plastic bags and refrigerate for two weeks to a 
month or so (watch out for mold!).  Then pot in a warm high-humidity 
environment (use of rooting hormones is advisable).  Leaves should appear 
within a month.  Don't forget to harden-off the new plants before transferring 
them to the garden!
 
Reference:  Joseph Petta, "A Hint on Rooting Cuttings," The Yellow Rose 4(4), 
September 1987, 18.  (Dallas Area Historical Rose Group, 2119 Oak Brook, 
Richardson, TX  75081.)
 
 
                  EARLIER FLOWERING FROM SALTY PUMPKIN SEEDS
 
Horticulturists in India report significantly reduced times to flowering 
(almost two weeks earlier) after soaking pumpkin seeds in salt water (about 
0.2 ounces of sodium chloride per quart of water) for six hours.  The 
treatment also increased plant leaf area relative to that of untreated plants.
 
Reference:  Abstract 5494, Horticultural Abstracts 57(7), July 1987, 576-577.
 
 
                       "...PART OF THE YUPPIE IMAGE..."
 
David J. Beattie, professor of horticulture at Penn State, says that the 
current growth of the horticultural services industry has a lot to do with 
"conspicuous consumption."  He says that "It is part of the yuppie image, 
having a beautiful garden along with an expensive car and a swimming pool."  
(And hired specialists to take care of the car, the pool, and the garden.)  
Dr. Lawrence Chimerline, who has worked for the U.S. Department of Commerce 
and the Bureau of Labor Statistics, agrees that "do-it-yourself" gardening is 
losing popularity.  Now the trend is toward paying somebody else to do your 
gardening for you.
 
Reference:  Jerry Roche, Heide Aungst, and Jeff Sobul, "News/Trends," 
Landscape Management 26(9), September 1987, 6. (Harcourt Brace Jovanovich 
Publications, 7500 Old Oak Blvd., Cleveland, OH  44130.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WEED CONTROL IN CENTIPEDEGRASS WITH POAST HERBICIDE              
-DOC-
              WEED CONTROL IN CENTIPEDEGRASS WITH POAST HERBICIDE
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
USE OF SETHOXYDIM (POAST) FOR WEED CONTROL IN CENTIPEDEGRASS TURF
 
Established Grass:  Centipedegrass
 
Chemical:  sethoxydim
 
Rate: 1.5 pints of POAST plus 2 pints oil concentrate (crop oil) per acre, or 
      1/2 fl.oz. of POAST plus 3/4 fl.oz. oil concentrate (crop oil) per 1,000 
      sq.ft. 
 
Trade Name                                Formulation
  POAST                                18% (1.5 lb ai/gal.)
 
Weeds Controlled:  large crabgrass, smooth crabgrass, goosegrass.
 
Remarks:  Apply Poast no sooner than 3 weeks after spring green-up of 
centipede turf.  Apply before annual grasses become too large and mature.  
Poast does not control sedges or broadleaf weeds.  Do not apply Poast to any 
desirable turfgrass other than centipedegrass.  Control symptoms exhibited by 
the weeds progress from a slowing or stopping of growth, to reddening of the 
leaves, and to leaf tip burn, followed by browning of the foliage.  Symptoms 
generally observed within 3 weeks depending on weather.  Do not mow within 7 
days before and after application. 
 
Do not apply to grass under moisture, temperature, or injury stress.  Apply to 
actively growing grasses.  Poast should dry on the grass foliage to be 
effective.  See Supplemental Label, For Use on Centipedegrass in Turf, Lawns 
and Rights of Way, for additional details.
 
USE OF SETHOXYDIM (POAST) FOR BAHIAGRASS CONTROL IN CENTIPEDEGRASS TURF
 
Established Grass:  Centipedegrass
 
Chemical:  sethoxydim
 
Rate:  First application:  1.5 pints of Poast plus 2 pints oil concentrate
       Up to 4 inches.     per acre, or 1/2 fl.oz. of Poast plus 3/4 fl.oz. 
                           oil concentrate per 1,000 sq.ft.
       Second application: 1.5 pints of Poast plus 2 pints oil concentrate per 
       Less than 4 inches  acre, or 1/2 fl.oz. of Poast plus 3/4 fl.oz. oil 
       of re-growth.       concentrate per 1,000 sq.ft.
 
Trade Name                                 Formulation
  POAST                                18% (1.5 lb ai/gal)
 
Weed Controlled:  bahiagrass
 
Remarks:  Do not mow within 7 days before application or within 14 days after 
application for best control of bahiagrass.  Established bahiagrass is very 
difficult to control.  One application will burn down the bahiagrass but many 
plants will regrow.  The regrowth is weak and seedheads will generally be 
suppressed for 40 days after the first application.
 
A second application of Poast will be necessary for bahiagrass control.  Under 
optimum conditions this second application should be made as soon as 10 to 14 
days after the first.  The second application should be made when the 
bahiagrass re-growth is young, actively growing and before it has reached 4 
inches in height.  
Complete control of bahiagrass may require continued treatments into the 
following year.  See Supplemental Label on Centipedegrass for additional 
details. 
 
USE OF SETHOXYDIM (POAST) FOR WEED CONTROL IN SEEDLING CENTIPEDEGRASS
 
Seedling Grass:  seedling centipedegrass
 
Chemical:  sethoxydim
 
Rate:  1 pint of Poast plus 2 pints oil concentrate per acre, or 3/8 fl.oz. of 
       Poast plus 3/4 fl.oz. oil cencentrate per 1,000 sq.ft..
 
Trade Name                               Formulation
  POAST                               18% (1.5 lb ai/gal)
 
Weeds Controlled:  large crabgrass, smooth crabgrass, goosegrass.
 
Remarks:  On seedling centipedegrass do not apply more than 1 pint per acre 
          per application or a total of 2 pints per season.  See Supplemental 
          Label on Centipedegrass for more important details.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ASPARAGUS, SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION	                   
-DOC-
                   ASPARAGUS, SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION	
              Jon R. Johnson, Assistant Professor of Horticulture	
	
Gardens should be located in full sun.  Sites that receive less than one-half 
day sun will result in lower crop yields.  Materials such as sand, finely 
ground bark or vermiculite shoud be added to clay soils to improve soil 
condition and provide better air space for roots.  Sandy soils benefit from 
addition of organic compost or manure through improved water and nutrient 
holding capacity.  Apply up to 2000 lbs. rotted compost/1000 sq. ft..  Growing 
a cover crop such as rye or winter peas in the winter or millet in the summer 
is also beneficial.  Plow down the cover crop 1 month before planting the 
garden.	
	 
Plow the garden in the fall to give old crop debris more time to decay.  This 
will also reduce insect and disease carryover.  Clay soils will require plowing 
6 to 8 inches deep at least every other year.  Sandy soils can be plowed with a 
rotary tiller.  Till the garden to break up clods and rake smooth to develop a 
uniform seedbed.  Coastal gardens should be ridged to prevent drowning during 
heavy rains.	 
 
Asparagus grows best on a well drained sandy soil.  Do not plant on heavy clay 
soils.	 
	
 
	
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ASPARAGUS, FERTILIZATION                            
-DOC-
                            ASPARAGUS, FERTILIZATION
              Jon R. Johnson, Assistant Professor of Horticulture
 
Base lime and fertilizer application on soil test recommendations.  Take a 
sample from the 6 to 12 inch depth of soil from several areas in the garden and 
combine this soil into one sample. Take one pint of this soil sample to the 
County Extension Agent's office.  The sample will be sent to Clemson, and later 
you will be given the results and a recommendation.	
	
If a soil test has not been taken apply ten pounds of a complete fertilizer per 
100 ft. of row and thoroughly mix into the top 12 inches of soil prior to 
planting.  In succeeding years apply 9 pounds of 5-10-10 per 1000 sq. ft.  in 
January and a second application of 9 pounds of 5-10-10 per 1000 sq. ft. at the 
end of harvest.	 
    
                 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ENDIVE, PLANTING	                                
-DOC-
                                ENDIVE, PLANTING	
              Jon R. Johnson, Assistant Professor of Horticulture	
	
                            Planting Date	
                                  Spring                   Fall     
               Piedmont          March 1-15            Aug. 15-25	
               Central           Feb. 1-28             Aug. 15-25	
               Coastal           Dec. 20-Feb. 5        Aug. 15-25	
	
Space endive rows 30 inches apart with 12 inches between plants in the row.  
Plant seed at the rate of 1/8 oz/100 ft of row.  Plant seed 0.25 inches deep.	 
	      
 
 
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LEEKS, GREEN; VARIETY SELECTION                        
-DOC-
                        LEEKS, GREEN; VARIETY SELECTION
              Jon R. Johnson, Assistant Professor of Horticulture
 
Large American Flag, Conqueror and Electra are the recommended varieties.  
Large American Flag is the standard variety for use in the home garden.  This 
variety produces long thick white stems with blue-green leaves.  Conqueror is 
hardy and is late in maturation.  Electra is somewhat earlier than Conqueror.  
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RADISHES, VARIETY SELECTION                           
-DOC-
                           RADISHES, VARIETY SELECTION
                       Jon R. Johnson, Assistant Professor
 
Scarlet Globe, Red Prince, Champion, Novired and Chinese Winter are the 
recommended red varieties.  Red Prince has short tops with globe shaped bright 
red roots.  Champion has large tops with large globe shaped deep red roots.  
This is a relatively long-standing variety.  Scarlet Globe has large tops with 
globe shaped roots.  White Icicle is the recommended white variety.  This 
variety has medium short tops with long tapered roots that are clear white and 
pungent.  
 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CARE OF ESTABLISHED WARM-SEASON GRASS LAWNS                     
-DOC-
                     CARE OF ESTABLISHED WARM-SEASON GRASS LAWNS
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
As a general rule, you can consider your lawn "established" when you no longer 
see the soil through the grass blades.  Then use the maintenance procedures in 
this section to keep your lawn healthy. 
 
TAKING SOIL SAMPLES    
 
The following instructions apply for turf soils, lawns, athletic fields, golf 
courses, parks and cemeteries:
 
1.  Get soil sample box and record sheet from your local county Extension 
agent's office.
2.  Using a tube, auger, shovel, or trowel and a clean pail, take cores, thin 
slices, or borings from 10 to 15 places in the lawn.  Sample to a 3-inch soil 
depth.  Place soil in the pail and mix thoroughly.  Do not include thatch on 
top of the soil.  Fill the soil sample box with the soil mixture and discard 
the remainder.
Follow the diagram below to locate the individual samples.
 
        XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
        X                                                       X
        X     X              X              X             X     X
        X                                                       X
        X             X              X            X             X
        X                                                       X
        X     X              X              X             X     X
        X                                                       X
        XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
 
3.  Number and label the soil samples.  Each box should be plainly marked as 
to area or field number samples.
4.  If the lawn varies in soil type, previous fertilizer or lime treatments, 
sample each area separately.  Only one composite sample representative of the 
entire area is needed per individual lawn.
5.  Fill in the information required on record sheet and mail or take the 
record sheet and soil sample to your local county Extension agent.
6.  To avoid delay in getting soil-test results by return mail from your local 
county Extension agent, submit lawn soil samples in summer and early fall 
months.
 
FERTILIZING AND LIMING
 
To maintain your lawn properly, apply all fertilizer and lime according to 
soil test results.
 
Follow the soil-sampling instructions and take or mail the samples to your 
local county agent for analyses and subsequent fertilizer and/or liming 
recommendations.  Soil samples should be taken at least once a year.  By 
submitting the samples before January for analysis, results and recommendations 
can be made so that fertilization and liming may be carried out in the early 
spring.
If soil samples are not taken, the general suggestions in the following table 
"Fertilizing Established Warm-Season* Grass Lawns" may be considered.  Make 
fall application no later than the following dates:
 
                        September 15  -  Piedmont Area
                        October 1     -  Sandhill Area
                        October 15    -  Coastal Area
                                     TABLE
               FERTILIZING ESTABLISHED WARM-SEASON* GRASS LAWNS
______________________________________________________________________________                                             
                                                 Application per 1,000 sq. ft.
                                                 _____________________________
                                                                     Amount of            
Time               Material                      Rate of N            material
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                 Pounds               Pounds
Spring             16-4-8 (50 to 60% S.A.N.)+    2 to 2.5             12 to 15
Early summer       16-4-8 (50 to 60% S.A.N.)     2 to 2.5             12 to 15
                    or nitrogen source
                   (Ammonium nitrate)              1                     3
Late summer        16-4-8 (50 to 50% S.A.N.)     2 to 2.5             12 to 15
_______________________________________________________________________________
*For centipedegrass and carpetgrass use only one-fourth the maintenance rate 
 of 16-4-8.  Do not apply in late summer.
+Any grade with a 4-1-2 or comparable ratio may be used if the rate is 
 adjusted proportionately and it contains 50 to 60% slowly available nitrogen 
 (S.A.N.).
You may need to apply additional nitrogen in some cases.  For proper color and 
vigor, nitrogen is probably the most important fertilizer element.  Lack of 
proper levels of phosphorus and potassium in the soil will be less evident.  
For this reason make at least two of the fertilizer applications with a 
complete fertilizer such as 16-4-8.  The optimum pH for centipedegrass and 
carpetgrass is 5.5 and 6.0.  All other warm-season grasses require a pH of 
approximately 6.5.  Soil-test results will indicate the pH of your soil. 
 
Agricultural or dolomitic limestone is used to maintain the pH in the proper 
range and furnish needed calcium and magnesium for the grass.  Limestone is 
normally applied at rates from 25 to 100 pounds per 1,000 square feet.  
However, don't guess; soil test.  Know the soil pH and proper rate of 
limestone to broadcast to adjust the acidity.
 
If the grass does not respond to nitrogen fertilizer and limestone, there 
could be other nutrient deficiencies.
 
Many sandy soils do not retain sufficient iron.
IRON DEFICIENCY
 
Iron-deficient grass will be light green to yellow.  Applying 3 ounces of iron 
sulfate in 3 to 5 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet will correct iron 
deficiency symptoms.
 
WATERING
 
Discontinue the practice of light, daily application of water.  Less frequent 
but deeper watering is in order after the grass is established to develop and 
maintain a deep-rooted lawn.  Daily sprinkling encourages a shallow root 
system, which suffers during periods of low rainfall.
 
When to water is something that each homeowner must determine because of local 
rainfall, type of soil, and type of grass.  Wilting of the grass during the 
hot part of day is a good indication that water is needed.  On heavier soils 
apply water slowly to prevent runoff and to insure deep penetration of 4-6 
inches.  This may require 8 hours or more of continuous watering in certain 
areas of the state.  Under average summer conditions, such irrigation may be 
required but once or twice during the summer.  Those areas characterized by 
sandy soils will not require as much water or time to reach the same depth, 
but more frequent applications may be necessary.
For additional information on watering and irrigation system design, consult 
Circular 580, Irrigating Your Lawn and Garden, Clemson University Extension 
Service.
 
MOWING
 
Proper mowing can mean the difference between an attractive and an ordinary 
lawn.  Even though the lawn is watered and fertilized correctly, improper 
cutting can cause a poor appearance and in many cases weaken the stand of 
grass.
 
In general, the finer the leaf texture the closer the grass can be mowed.  
Even though a fine-textured grass is mowed closely, there will be enough leaf 
blades left to manufacture food.  This would not hold true for grasses such as 
centipede and St. Augustine, which are medium- to coarse-textured as most of 
the leaf surface would be removed if grass were cut low.  In this case, too 
much of the food-manufacturing surface would be cut away, and the grass would 
recover slowly because of low food reserves.  Recommended cutting heights of 
individual grasses are given in the following table:
                                     TABLE
                       CUTTING HEIGHTS FOR LAWN GRASSES
______________________________________________________________________________
                       Height                                        Height
Grass                  (inches)                Grass                 (inches)            
______________________________________________________________________________
Bermudagrasses         0.5-1.0           St. Augustinegrass           1.5-2.5
  Common               0.5-1.0           Zoysia grasses
  Tifgreen             0.5-1.0                Emerald                 0.5-1.0
  Tiflawn              0.5-1.0                Meyer                   0.5-1.0
  Tifway               0.5-1.0                Z. matrella             0.5-1.0
Carpetgrass            1.0-1.5                Z. japonica             0.5-1.0
Centipedegrass         1.0-1.5
_______________________________________________________________________________
 
The most damaging mowing practice is extreme and sudden reduction of height.  
A sudden and severe change in height upsets the balance between leaf and root 
growth.  As a result injury usually occurs.  Extreme reduction in height also 
results in a scalped appearance.  If the lawn grass becomes too tall, reduce 
the height gradually until the recommended height is reached.
Mow grasses in the shade higher than normally suggested.
 
MOWING FREQUENCY
 
Frequency of mowing depends on the rate of growth of the individual grass.  If 
a 1 inch height is maintained, mow when the grass reaches a height of 1.5 
inch.  Generally never remove more grass than is left.
 
When mowing established lawns, collect the clippings.  By eliminating thatch 
and/or mat (accumulation of dead organic material at the soil level), you will 
reduce the possibility of disease and insect problems.  And fertilizer and 
water can penetrate more readily into the root zone. 
 
ROTARY MOWER
 
It is important to keep the cutting blades sharp.  Rotary mower blades are 
easily removed and sharpened with a grinding stone or file.  The blade should 
be inspected and possibly sharpened before each use.  A sharp blade will make 
a clean, smooth cut.  A dull blade will tear the grass blades and leave rough, 
ragged edges that turn brown after drying.  A lawn mowed with a dull blade 
will have a tan to brown cast over the surface a few days later.
REEL MOWER
 
Reel mowers cut with a scissors-type action.  When the bed knife is smooth and 
reel blades are sharp, a clean cut will result.  Dull blades crush and tear 
the grass leaves resulting in a brownish cast over the lawn.
 
Many older bermuda and zoysia lawns show a tan cast following each mowing as a 
result of being mowed at the same height for several years.  The grass leaves 
are cut back to brown stems each time.  Slightly varying the mowing height 
will help correct this.
 
In the spring lower the mowing height by 1/4 to 1/2 inch for the first time 
over.  Then raise the height for subsequent mowing.  If the brown stubble 
appears later in the summer, repeat the process of varying the mowing height.
 
Well-fertilized older lawns will have accumulated a layer of mat or thatch 
over the years.  Mower wheels sink into the soft mat.  The mowing height is 
effectively lowered below green leaves exposing brown stems.  When this 
occurs, it is definitely time to remove the excess thatch accumulation  (See 
following section on removing thatch.)
REMOVING THATCH
 
Thatch or mat is the accumulation of dead leaves, stems, stolons, or rhizomes 
at or just beneath the soil level.  This condition is caused by over-
fertilization, improper mowing height, excess use of pesticides, and/or 
failure to collect clippings.  Exess thatch is highly undesirable because it 
reduces water, lime, fertilizer, and pesticide penetration into the soil.  
Also insects and disease-producing organisms thrive in thatch or mat.  
Eliminate such an accumulation from your lawn.  Thatch in excess of 1/4 inch 
thick is considered undesirable. 
 
Before thinning, mow the lawn to the proper height.  Thatch removal (thinning) 
is best accomplished with a power-driven mower that uses vertically mounted 
blades.  The depth of blade penetration into the soil is manually adjustable; 
so thatch or mat may be removed efficiently without serious injury to the 
lawn.
 
Another way to remove thatch is with a stiff rake.  But use a rake only as a 
last resort or where the area involved is small.
Bermudagrass may be thinned from dormancy (February-March) through summer (no 
later than mid-August).  If thinnned in April or May, avoid severe thinning.  
Do not thin after mid-August because the new growth is likely to be tender and 
therefore more susceptible to winter injury.  If the thatch problem is 
exceptionally bad, run the thinning machine in two or more directions.
 
Because of the slow rate of recovery from thinning operations, thin the 
zoysias early in the season, certainly no later than mid-July.  They may be 
thinned during dormancy (February-March); and, if the thatch or mat is dense, 
thin the lawn in two or three directions.
 
From information presently available, thin centipede, carpet and St. Augustine 
only after they have recovered fully from dormancy.  Until further information 
becomes available, confine thinning in one direction only.  And do not thin 
after the first of July.
 
After thatch has been removed, it is important to provide plenty of water and 
proper fertility to promote recovery of healthy turf.  Follow fertilizer 
recommendations based on a soil test or suggestions in the table, Fertilizing 
Established Warm-Season Lawns.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CARE OF THE NEW COOL-SEASON GRASS LAWN                    
-DOC-
                    CARE OF THE NEW COOL-SEASON GRASS LAWN
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
Diligent care of the young lawn during the first 2 or 3 months is important 
for its overall success.
 
WATERING
 
Not providing the newly seeded lawn with enough moisture is one of the main 
reasons for failure.  Water should be supplied frequently (quantity is less a 
factor now) so that soil surrounding the seed is never allowed to dry out.  
Supplying water two or three times a day in small quantities during the 
critical seed germination period will pay big dividends.  Irrigate daily 
during the first 2 weeks after planting.  A sprinkler covering a large area 
with slow application rate is best.  Be sure to maintain adequate pressure by 
using a water hose of correct size: up to 50 feet long, not less than 1/2-inch 
diameter; for longer lengths, 5/8- or 3/4-inch diameter.
Once the lawn is up, waterings should be spaced further apart.  Apply water as 
infrequently as the lawn condition permits and in sufficient quantity to 
moisten to a depth of 8 to 10 inches.  Young grass will root better if the 
soil is not kept too wet.  In the fall, rain may often be sufficient, but, in 
the absence of rain, you must supply water to prevent drought.
 
FERTILIZATION
 
Fertilization is often neglected.  The young grass needs ample nutrients to 
develop into a sturdy sod as quickly as possible.  Cool-season grasses should 
not lose their green color during the winter.  They need to be kept vigorous 
by adequate fertilization.  Clemson University recommends using properly 
balanced, complete fertilizers.  No one program will be right for all 
situations, but the following table can serve as a guideline.
           A FERTILIZATION GUIDE FOR ESTABLISHING A TALL FESUCE LAWN
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                          Application rate/
Time                               Fertilizer             1,000 square feet
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                               (pounds)
3-4 weeks                   16-4-8 (50 to 60% org. N)          15 to 20
after seeding                          or
(October)                   33-0-0 (Ammonium nitrate)           3 to 4
_____________________________________________________________________________
Late November               16-4-8 (50 to 60% org. N)          15 to 20
or early                               or
December                    33-0-0 (Ammonium nitrate)           3 to 4
_____________________________________________________________________________
Late January                16-4-8 (50 to 60% org. N)          15 to 20
or early                               or
February                    33-0-0 (Ammonium nitrate)           3 to 4
_____________________________________________________________________________
Note:  At least one application should be with a complete fertilizer (16-4-8).
Fertilizing later than February is usually not recommended.  This causes 
grasses to be too succulent when hot weather comes, and large areas could be 
killed by diseases.  Wash all fertilizer applications off the foliage by 
irrigation as quickly as possible to avoid fertilizer "burn" on the grass.
 
MOWING
 
Use a sharp push-type rotary mower for early mowing of young grass.  Because 
young grass is soft, the power-driven wheels of a reel mower would leave a 
trail of injured plants.  Mowing should start as soon as the grass is 2- to 3-
inches high and it should be done often.  Frequent mowing encourages grass to 
spread and form sturdy sod more quickly.  Adjust the mowing height according 
to the time of year and to fit each grass species as listed in the following 
table.
                  BEST CUTTING HEIGHT FOR COOL-SEASON GRASSES
______________________________________________________________________________
                                          Cutting height in inches
                                 _________________________________________
Grass                            Winter                             Summer
______________________________________________________________________________
Tall fescue                      2 to 2-1/2                         3 to 3-1/2
Red fescue                       1-1/2 to 2                         2-1/2 to 3
Kentucky bluegrass               1-1/2 to 2                         2-1/2 to 3
Ryegrass                         1 to 2-1/2                         2-1/2 to 3
Bentgrass                        1/2 to 1                           1 to 1-1/2
______________________________________________________________________________
 
There is no need to remove clippings on young lawns if mowing is done often 
enough so that clippings do not clump and smother the grass below.
                   CARE OF THE ESTABLISHED COOL-SEASON LAWN
 
By the time a cool-season lawn has gone through the first winter and the soil 
is fully covered with grass and firm sod has developed, the lawn will be well 
established.
 
MOWING
 
Mow with either a reel or rotary mower.  In addition to the correct cutting 
height, sharpness of the mower blades and mowing frequency are important.  
When blades are not sharp, grass will have frazzled and bruised tips after 
mowing.  These injured tips die back and give an unattractive, gray cast to 
the lawn.  Sharp blades sever the grass cleanly without lasting injury.  
Sharpening the blades before each mowing is a good practice.
 
Generally, the more frequently a lawn is cut, the better its appearance.  
Infrequent cutting removes too much leaf surface at one time, causes color 
loss, decreases density, and requires removing the heavy clippings separately.  
A good rule of thumb is the following:
"Cut the lawn when the grass is twice as high as the mower setting."
 
This means that mowing intervals should be geared to the growth rate of the 
grass rather than to the day of the week.  For instance, if you are cutting at 
2 1/2 inches, you should mow the lawn whenever the tallest grass blades are 5 
inches.  Avoid lowering the cutting height drastically.  If you reduce the 
mowing level, do it gradually at intervals of about 1/4 inch each mowing until 
you reach the desired level.
 
CLIPPING REMOVAL
 
If proper mowing intervals are maintained, clipping removal should not be 
necessary on cool-season grasses.  Clippings do no harm if quantities are not 
excessive and actually return a few nutrients to the soil as they decompose.  
If clippings are heavy and tend to remain on top of the cut grass for several 
days, they should be taken off.
FERTILIZATION
 
Fertilization programs for annual maintenance will vary according to how 
vigorous a lawn the homeowner desires.  Fertilizer, especially nitrogen, 
influences color, vigor, and density of the lawn.  Also, the more fertilizer 
applied, the shorter the mowing schedule will need to be.
 
Fertilization is a management tool that should be used carefully.  Gauge 
application rates by the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer used.  You will 
need 4 to 6 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet each year.  Apply this 
amount in three to four applications during the year.
 
Nitrogen applications will correct poor color and vigor quickly, but the need 
for phosphorus and potassium is not as obvious.  These two elements should be 
supplied at least once or twice a year in a complete fertilizer, such as 16-4-
8.  Check phosphorus and potassium levels at least once each fall by having a 
soil sample analyzed.
Fertilizing cool-season grasses during late spring and summer can be harmful.  
This encourages leaf and stem growth at the expense of carbohydrates stored in 
the root system.  A weak root system will predispose the grass to heat and 
drought stress as well as diseases.  For better survival, growth of cool-
season grasses should be very slow during hot weather.  The following table 
gives a typical fertilizer program for a cool-season grass lawn.
              A TYPICAL FERTILIZER SCHEDULE FOR COOL-SEASON LAWNS
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                Application/1,000 square feet
                                              ________________________________
Month                   Material              Rate of N       Rate of Material
______________________________________________________________________________
                                               (pounds)           (pounds)
Late September   16-4-8 (50 to 60% org. N)     1 to 1-1/2       6-1/2 to 9-1/2
_______________________________________________________________________________
Late November    (33-0-0) Ammonium nitrate     2 to 3           6 to 9
                 or 16-4-8                                     13 to 19
_______________________________________________________________________________
January          (33-0-0) Ammonium nitrate       1                3
                 or 16-4-8                                       6-1/2
_______________________________________________________________________________
February         16-4-8                          1               6-1/2
_______________________________________________________________________________
Note:  For late fall and winter applications, use fertilizers with all-soluble 
       nitrogen.
If this program is used with 4 pounds of nitrogen per year, omit the February 
treatment.  Young lawns up to 3 years old may need all four applications in a 
year.  Older lawns with an accumulated fertilizer reserve may not need the 
fourth application.
 
LIMING
 
Just as you need an annual soil sample to check for phosphorus and potassium, 
you also need to check closely on soil acidity.  This factor, reported as pH 
by the soil laboratory, is important for plant growth.  Low values, between 
4.0 to 5.5, mean that the soil is too acidic.  High pH values, above 7.5, are 
very rare in South Carolina and mean that the soil is too basic.  Piedmont 
soils are generally acid and require lime.
 
Most grasses grow best at pH values between 6.0 and 7.0.  If a pH value of 
less than 6.0 is reported, lime is required.  Lime can be applied at any time 
during the year, but fall is best.
 
Your county Extension agent will recommend the quantity of lime to be applied 
on the basis of your soil analysis.  If you have not had your soil tested, 
apply 50 pounds per 1,000 square feet biennally.  This is usually enough to 
maintain a favorable pH.  
Apply with a drop-type spreader.  Lime will bridge in the hopper of a rotary-
type spreader and will not be evenly distributed unless pelletized lime is 
used. 
 
WATERING
 
Watering an established lawn is seldom necessary with normal rainfall, but 
lawns can suffer during extended dry periods.  Most lawns have certain 
"indicator spots" where the grass always shows signs of drought first.  Growth 
will slow down, grass will lose its fresh, green color, and it will look dull 
and bluish during hot days.  Every homeowner should locate these "indicator 
spots" in the lawn and begin watering when they show signs of wilt.
 
Dry soils are usually hard and accept water slowly.  The high clay content of 
Piedmont soils adds to the problem.  Water at a slow rate so that the rate of 
application does not exceed the infiltration rate or water will run off and be 
wasted.
Most inexpensive sprinklers apply water too rapidly on a small area with poor 
results.  Instead of soaking into the soil, the water will soon begin to run 
off.  The best type of sprinkler should cover a large area, apply water 
slowly, be easily adjustable to fit almost any situation, and still distribute 
water uniformly throughout the pattern of coverage.
 
Water thoroughly when needed.  The soil should be moist throughout when the 
job is completed so that no layer of dry soil remains in the root zone.  
Applying too little water is poor economy and produces shallow-rooted turf 
because roots will not penetrate dry soil layers.  Once the lawn becomes 
shallow rooted, it is even more susceptible to drought and it will not develop 
a deep root system again until cool temperatures and adequate moisture 
conditions in the fall.
 
RESEEDING
 
Sometimes you will need to reseed damaged areas where desirable grasses have 
died out from drought, disease, insects, or other reasons.  Do not reseed just 
to thicken the stand; applying fertilizer and lime properly and using correct 
mowing height and frequency are more effective.
Reseed in September or October when lawn establishment normally would be done.  
Loosen the soil in small bare areas with a shovel, then rake smooth.  Sprinkle 
seed into the spots and cover lightly (1/4 inch) with soil.  Old grass 
clippings or straw makes a good mulch to hold moisture and prevent soil and 
seed from washing away.  Water in the same way described to hasten germination 
in a new lawn.  Extra fertilization is not needed since the entire lawn should 
receive a routine fertilizer application during this time.
 
A common mistake in reseeding is distributing too much seed in the bare areas.  
Use the seed sparingly!  Crowded seedlings are weak and tend to remain weak 
until they are killed by poor conditions in the summer.
 
SHADE
 
In dense shade the reduced light intensity limits carbohydrate reserves and 
development of roots, rhizomes, and stolons.  The longer dew period, higher 
humidity, reduced wind movement, and lower evapotranspiration rate encourage 
disease development.  Also, tree roots often compete with turfgrass roots for 
soil moisture and nutrients.
Both tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass and red fescue exhibit good shade 
tolerance in the Piedmont region.
 
Under dense shade conditions turf quality can be improved by:
 
    -  Raising the height of cut.  A taller mowing height will allow the grass 
       to keep more leaf surface for food manufacture and health of the grass.
    -  Avoiding excessive nitrogen applications but maintaining high soil 
       fertility.  Tree roots will use part of the applied fertilizer.  
       Excessive nitrogen promotes tender growth and, combined with high 
       humidity and reduced wind movement to dry moisture on leaves, stems, 
       and soil surface, predisposes the grass to some diseases.
    -  Judicious control of traffic.  Grass growing in shade will be tender 
       and more easily damaged by traffic.
    -  Additional irrigation when rainfall is inadequate.  Tree canopies 
       intercept light showers and part of heavier rainfall.  Also during hot, 
       dry weather, the extensive root systems of the trees use most of the 
       water in the soil and grass suffers from lack of adequate moisture.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
KENTUCKY BLUEGRASS                              
-DOC-
                              KENTUCKY BLUEGRASS
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis L.) is available in two distinct types - 
common and improved.  Avoid the common types, such as 'Kenblue,' 'Park,' 
'Delta,' or 'South Dakota Certified'; they are highly disease susceptible and 
generally are not satisfactory for South Carolina conditions.  Improved types, 
including 'Adelphi,' 'Baron,' 'Bonnieblue,' 'Vantage,' and 'Victa,' can 
produce an attractive year-round lawn of medium texture, especially in partial 
shade.  These improved types provide good wear tolerance, grow a dense, weed-
resistant turf, and possess better disease resistance on cool sites.  In open 
sun, diseases and insects can sometimes be problems.  These grasses may be 
used as companion grasses to tall fescue where it tends to thin out in partial 
shade. 
 
Kentucky bluegrass prefers fertile soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5.  Irrigation 
is needed to keep it attractive during summer heat.  Numerous experimental 
cultivars are under test at several Experiment Stations, so more disease-
resistant and better adapted varieties may be available in the future.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
RED FESCUE                                  
-DOC-
                                  RED FESCUE
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
Red fescue (Festuca rubra L.) varieties such as 'Barfalla,' common, 
'Jamestown,' 'Dawson,' and 'Pennlawn' are adapted only to shaded places in 
cool areas with adequate moisture.  Here they form a fine-textured, year-round 
cover.  Red fescue will tolerate more shade than any cool-season grass.  In 
sunny locations these varieties will not last through the summer and have to 
be reseeded each fall.  In areas where they survive, they are excellent 
companion grasses to Kentucky bluegrass.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WATERING NEWLY SEEDED COOL-SEASON TURF GRASS                 
-DOC-
                 WATERING NEWLY SEEDED COOL-SEASON TURF GRASS
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
Watering
 
Not providing the newly seeded lawn with enough moisture is one of the main 
reasons for failure.  Water should be supplied frequently (quantity is less a 
factor now) so that soil surrounding the seed is never allowed to dry out.  
Supplying water two or three times a day in small quantities during the 
critical seed germination period will pay big dividends.  Irrigate daily 
during the first 2 weeks after planting.  A sprinkler covering a large area 
with slow application rate is best.  Be sure to maintain adequate pressure by 
using a water hose of correct size:up to 50 feet long, not less than 1/2-inch 
diameter; for longer lengths, 5/8- or 3/4-inch diameter.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOIL PREPARATION                               
-DOC-
                               SOIL PREPARATION
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
Thorough preparation of the soil is important.  Unfortunately soil preparation 
often is done hastily and without planning.  A lawn is not like a field that 
will be plowed every year to loosen the soil.  Once the lawn has been 
established, mistakes are hard to correct.  Therefore, be sure to prepare the 
soil so that it does not become so hard and compact that grasses cannot grow 
properly.
 
Here are steps to follow in preparing soil:
 
 Soil Sampling:  Before you do any ground work, take two or three soil samples 
at random.  The Clemson University Soils Laboratory will analyze these free of 
charge to determine how much phosphorus, potassium, and lime need to be added 
to the soil for good grass growth.  Contact your county Extension agent for 
instructions and sample containers.
 Rough Grading and Debris Removal:  Debris accumulates around new houses and 
can easily be covered.  Avoid burying lumber scraps, paper trash, bricks, 
cement, plasterboard, stumps, and other debris.  Instead, pick up and discard 
these.  Topsoil should be stockpiled by the contractor.  Establish the 
subgrade so that the slopes are gentle and water will drain away from the 
house.  Then return the topsoil and spread uniformly over the entire area.
 
 Adding Fertilizer, Lime, and Soil Conditioners:
 
Apply fertilizer and lime uniformly according to the recommendations made by 
your county agent on the basis of your soil samples.  This is also a good time 
to add soil conditioners such as sphagnum moss, old sawdust, rooted manure, or 
bark dust.  Conditioners must be added in large amounts (3 to 4 inches deep) 
to be helpful.  They will improve soil structure and help reduce compaction.  
On heavy clay soils incorporating a 3- to 5-inch layer of washed sand will 
make the soil more workable.
 
(Note:  In the absence of a soil test, apply the following amounts of 
fertilizer and lime: 20 to 30 pounds of 10-10-10 (or similar) fertilizer per 
1,000 square feet and 100 to 150 pounds of limestone per 1,000 square feet.)
 Deep Tillage.  Till topsoil, fertilizer, lime, and soil conditioners into the 
soil to a depth of about 8 inches.  You will need a power-driven rotary 
tiller.  Till in several directions to mix all materials properly to the 
desired depth.
 
(Note:  If bermudagrass, zoyzia, or nutsedge are in the topsoil, fumigate with 
methyl bromide or other soil fumigants.) 
 
 Heavy Rolling:  Compress the loose soil immediately after tillage for a 
uniformly firm seedbed and to reduce erosion.  Use a heavy, water-filled 
roller.
 
 Final Grading:  Several tools can be used for the final grading - rake, spike 
harrow, drag.  Have the final surface as smooth as possible, without pockets 
or high areas.  You will mow over your lawn for many years, and the better the 
grading, the better the lawn will look and the easier each mowing will be.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ESTABLISHING THE WARM-SEASON LAWN                       
-DOC-
                       ESTABLISHING THE WARM-SEASON LAWN
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
GRADING AND SOIL PREPARATION
 
Take soil samples from the topsoil and subsoil 3-5 weeks before preparing 
soil.  Submit the two groups of soil samples to your local county office for 
analysis.  Agents will recommend fertilization and/or liming needed.  Soil 
testing is the only way to determine accurately the amount of fertilizer 
and/or lime needed.
 
Grade the subsoil to the proper contour to insure drainage.  If drain tile is 
necessary, install it at this time, cover, and re-establish the subgrade 
contour.
 
When these procedures have been completed, apply the recommended amounts of 
fertilizer and/or lime to the topsoil.  If for some good reason a soil sample
has not been analyzed and the area being prepared has not been cropped in 
recent years, broadcast 20 pounds of 10-10-10 or 25 pounds of 8-8-8 fertilizer 
and 100 pounds of dolomitic limestone per 1,000 square feet of lawn area 
before tilling.
If centipedegrass is to be planted, use only one-half the above amount of 
fertilizer and no lime.  If organic matter and/or sand is necessary, apply at 
this time (see Soil Conditioners).  Mix these materials thoroughly into the 
soil with disc harrow or other mechanical means such as a rototiller.  Top 
soil, fertilizer, lime, and soil conditioner should be tilled at least 8 
inches deep.  Make the final grade so that water will drain away from the 
house and eliminate any pockets or depressions.  The soil surface should be as 
smooth as possible before planting.  This is the surface over which the mower 
wheels will be rolling for many years.
 
Fumigating the soil with methyl bromide or other soil fumigants before 
planting will prevent many future lawn problems.  (Objectionable grasses, most 
weeds, certain disease-causing soil organisms, nematodes, and certain soil 
insects will be controlled.)  Use soil fumigants according to the 
manufacturer's directions.  Do not use these fumigants around trees or other 
valuable plants.
A firm, mellow planting area is essential.  The soil below the surface should 
be firm but not hard and compact.  If the soil is too loose, it will dry out 
quickly and the grass will more likely winter kill.  Do not seed, sprig, plug, 
or sod a lawn until the right kind of seedbed is obtained.  Often it is 
necessary to firm the seed bed with a roller before seeding or planting.  
Following seeding, use a mulch, such as pine needles or straw, to decrease 
erosion during establishment.  One 60- to 80-pound bale of straw will cover 
1,000 square feet with three to five straws intermeshed.
 
SOIL CONDITIONERS
 
Adequate amounts of organic matter should be present in the soil for good turf 
development.  If the soil is sandy and low in organic matter, adjust the 
organic content to 10-15 percent by volume.  To obtain this figure, 3 to 5 
bales spagnum peat moss (6 cu. ft./bale) per 1,000 square feet of area are 
required.  Rotted sawdust (3 to 4 inches deep) or other organic materials may 
be substituted; however, sphagnum peat moss is more desirable because of its 
longer lasting quality.
Add coarse sand or manufactured soil conditioners, such as calcined clay, to 
heavy clay soils to make the soils more porous and prevent compaction.  In 
extremely heavy clay soils, adding sand is more important than adding organic 
matter.  In general, heavy clay soils will need 5 cubic yards of coarse sand 
added or 500-1,000 pounds of calcined clay per 1,000 square feet.  Regardless 
of which material is used, thoroughly mix with the upper 6-8 inches of soil.
 
PLANTING
 
Seeding. - Divide equally the quantity of seed to be planted and sow in two 
directions to get even distribution.  After seeding, rake lightly and roll 
with a light lawnroller or cultipacker.  Raking will help cover the seed with 
soil, and rolling will help firm the soil.  Watering with a fine spray will 
help seed to germinate, but take care to prevent washing or puddling.  
Frequent watering is essential until the seedlings become established.
 
For best results seed warm-season grasses in the spring and early summer 
months.  For seeding rates see the following table.
                  SEEDING RATES FOR WARM-SEASON LAWN GRASSES
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                             Amount per 1,000
Grass                             Best time to seed             square feet
_____________________________________________________________________________
Carpetgrass                           April-July                   2-4 pounds
 
Centipedegrass                        April-July                   4-8 ounces
 
Common bermudagrass
    Hulled                            April-July                   2-3 pounds
    Unhulled                             Fall                      3-5 pounds
 
Zoysia japonica                       May-July                     1-2 pounds
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Vegetative Planting. - Bermuda, zoysia, centipede, and St. Augustine are 
commonly established by sodding, plugging, sprigging, or stolonizing.
If sufficient grass sod is available, blocks about 12 to 18 inches wide and as 
long as can be handled conveniently may be used for sodding.  Before laying 
sod, have the soil as smooth as possible.  Smooth small areas with a finetooth 
garden rake as sod is being laid.  Join the sod blocks as closely as possible, 
alternating blocks like bricks in a wall and filling the open joints with 
sand.  To settle the sod blocks firmly in contact with the soil, roll with a 
heavy, 200-pound, water-filled roller and irrigate well to wet both sod and 
soil under sod.
 
As a rule, sprigging is more economical than sodding.  Bermuda sprigs are 
usually planted in 1-foot rows about 6 to 12 inches apart in the row.  Closer 
spacing will provide quicker coverage.  Sprig zoysia, centipede, and St. 
Augustine on 6- to 8-inch centers since they are slow growing.  Set sprigs or 
plugs firmly in the soil and then roll and water.  Grass used for sprigging 
should not be higher than 1.5 inches.
 
It is more economical to use individual sprigs than sod plugs.  This is 
especially true when sod of the more expensive grasses must be purchased for 
large lawn areas.  When properly managed, individual sprigs will cover the 
soil more quickly than sod plugs.  See the following table for amount of 
sprigs need for planting.
          QUANTITY OF GRASS NEEDED FOR SPRIGGING WARM-SEASON GRASSES
______________________________________________________________________________
 
Grass                                Plant material per 1,000 square feet
______________________________________________________________________________
 
Bermudagrass                         0.5-1 square yard sod or
                                     0.5-1 bushel sprigs (1,000-2,000 sprigs)
 
Carpetgrass                          1 square yard sod or
                                     1 bushel sprigs
 
Centipedegrass                       1.5-2 square yards sod or
                                     1.5-2 bushels sprigs (500-750 sprigs)
 
St. Augustine                        1.5-2 square yards sod or
                                     1.5-2 bushels sprigs (500-750)
 
Zoysia                               1 square yard sod or
                                     1 bushel sprigs (1,000-2,000 sprigs)
______________________________________________________________________________
Stolonizing requires more vegetative material for planting than sprigging or 
plugging but is a quicker method to establish a complete cover of grass 
without sodding.
 
Stolons (aboveground stems) are gathered by "verticutting" an existing stand 
of grass not containing excess dead thatch with a mower container vertical 
blades.  The vertical blades pull out and cut off horizontal live stolons from 
the sod.
 
The fresh stolons are raked or swept and transported to the prepared planting 
site.  The stolons are broadcast on the soil surface and rolled with a water 
filled lawn roller or pressed into the soil in several different directions 
with a stolon planter followed immediately by irrigation to prevent 
desiccation and encourage rooting.  Daily, light watering during the warmest 
part of the day is required until the stolons form a root system. 
                         CARE OF NEW WARM-SEASON LAWNS
 
FERTILIZING
 
Semi-monthly application of nitrogen at the rate of 0.5-1 pound of actual 
nitrogen per 1,000 square feet will hasten rate of coverage.  (See following 
table.)  Start these applications 2-3 weeks after sprigging or plugging.  For 
seeded grasses, wait until seedlings are about 1.5 inches tall.  Stop nitrogen 
applications by August 15 in the Piedmont and by September 1 in the lower part 
of the state.
                        SOURCES OF NITROGEN FERTILIZER
______________________________________________________________________________
                                Percent of       Pounds of nitrogen material
Nitrogen material                nitrogen       required per 1,000 square feet
______________________________________________________________________________
                                                  For 1/2 lb.       For 1 lb.
                                                   actual N          actual N
Ammonium nitrate                    33.5             1.50              3.00
Ammonium nitrate limestone          20.5             2.50              5.00
Ammonium sulfate                    21.0             2.50              5.00
Sodium nitrate                      16.0             3.12              6.25
Calcium nitrate                     15.5             3.22              6.45
Urea formaldehyde                   38.0             1.32              2.63
Urea                                45.0             1.11              2.22
IBDU                                32.0             1.56              3.12
______________________________________________________________________________
WATERING
 
Your lawn grass must have adequate moisture in the upper 0.5 to 1 inch of soil 
during the first 3-4 weeks, regardless of planting method.  This means that 
daily light waterings are necessary during periods of no rainfall.  
Carelessness during this period can greatly affect the rate of coverage or 
even result in complete kill of large areas of the lawn.
 
Daily watering during the middle of the day to early afternoon is most 
appropriate.  Continue daily, light irrigation until all seeds have germinated 
or sprigs have rooted.  Keep the soil surface moist at all times during the 
germinating period.  Sprigs with limited root systems need plenty of soil 
moisture.  Length of time required for daily irrigation will vary with soil 
temperature and type of grass planted.  Two weeks should be sufficient for 
most grasses planted in late spring and early summer.
 
MOWING
 
Begin mowing sprigged or plugged grasses when new growth is evident.  For 
bermudas and zoysias, set the mower to cut 1-1.5 inches; for centipede or St. 
Augustine a 2-inch height is recommended.  As the grass becomes better 
established, gradually reduce the height of cut.  
Reduce clipping height by 1/8 inch per week until the desired clipping height 
is reached.  Frequent mowing will encourage horizontal spread rather than 
upright growth. 
 
On seeded grasses, start mowing only after the seedlings have reached 1 inch 
in height.  Raise or lower the height of cut approximately 1/8-1/4 inch at 
each successive mowing until the recommended height is attained.
 
Regardless of the method of planting (seed, sprigs, or plugs), it is not 
necessary to collect the clippings during the period of establishment.  Use 
a sharp, well-adjusted, reel-type mower on the young lawn.  If a rotary mower 
is used, be sure the cutting edges are as sharp as possible at each mowing.
 
SMOOTHING AN UNEVEN LAWN
 
If the lawn surface becomes bumpy and uneven during planting or because of 
washing during a heavy rain, start smoothing operations about the time of 
first mowing.  Topdress with a loamy soil or a mixture of sand, soil, sawdust, 
and/or peat moss.  Apply topdress to low spots in the lawn in light 
applications (up to 1 inch deep) to produce a smooth surface.  
Bermuda, centipede, or St. Augustine leaf blades may be covered lightly, but 
Zoysia leaf blades must be left partially exposed.  The smoother the surface, 
the easier the maintenance and the more manicured the lawn will be.
 
                        OVERSEEDING AND TEMPORARY LAWNS
 
Annual ryegrass (Lolium multiflorum) has customarily been widely used to 
overseed summer lawns to provide green color in the winter.  Perennial 
ryegrass (Lolium perene) is similar to annual ryegrass, and some of the seed 
are found in practically all lots of annual ryegrass.
 
Annual ryegrass can be distinguished from perennial ryegrass by anatomy of 
leaves in the bud.  Annual ryegrass is rolled in the bud.  Perennial ryegrass 
leaves are folded in the bud.
 
Neither of these ryegrasses is recommended as a permanent lawn grass in the 
South.  They are affected by stem and leaf rusts.  They usually die in late 
spring and must be reseeded the following fall.  Annual ryegrass is more 
susceptible to diseases than some of the improved varieties of perennial 
ryegrass.
New, fine-textured varieties of perennial ryegrass, such as 'Manhattan,' 
'Pennfine,' or 'Pelo,' are attractive and may survive several years in cooler 
locations.  Their use should be limited to overseeding warm-season lawns in 
the fall.
 
The term "perennial" refers to the grass species.  It does not mean the grass 
remains green year round in most of South Carolina's climate.  Neither does it 
mean the same grass plants will grow again during the following cool months.
 
For best survival it is important for the seeds to be in direct contact with 
soil.  In some lawns this may require thatch removal before overseeding.  Seed 
lying in damp thatch may germinate and grow during warmer periods.  However, 
dry, freezing periods may kill the seedlings.  This may be one reason heavily 
thatched, overseeded bermudagrass and zoysia lawns look good in the fall but 
by spring have deteriorated to patches or very sparse cover of green ryegrass.
 
Overseeding with ryegrass should not be done before cool weather comes in the 
fall.  An average date for overseeding in the Piedmont area of South Carolina 
is October 1.  Under normal weather conditions daytime high temperature should 
be 70 degrees F with cooler nights.  In central and coastal South Carolina 
overseeding can be started at a later date in October and November.  
Temperatures above 70 degrees F with high humidity or frequent rains promote 
seedling diseases which result in loss of overseeded grass.  Amount of seed 
required for overseeding is approximately 5 to 10 pounds per 1,000 square 
feet.
 
Those who complete building a house in the fall when it is too late to 
establish a warm-season grass lawn can plant ryegrass as a temporary cover for 
the winter.  If the land is sloping and subject to erosion during the winter, 
ryegrass will help hold the soil in place.  Five pounds of seed per 1,000 
square feet will be sufficient to produce enough for erosion control.  If the 
permanent lawn is to be common bermuda, unhulled common bermuda seed can be 
broadcast in fall and winter with ryegrass seed.  Common bermuda seed will 
germinate the following spring.  During spring months when ryegrass is growing 
rapidly, it should be mowed often to avoid competition with the warm-season 
grass.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TALL FESCUE                                  
-DOC-
                                  TALL FESCUE
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
'Kentucky 31' has been the preferred variety for many years; however, several 
varieties superior to Kentucky 31 have been tested and introduced recently.  
Varieties with desirable characteristics include 'Clemfine,' 'Falcon,' 
'Kenwell,' 'Kenhy,' and 'Rebel.'  The variety 'Alta' is not recommended 
because it is less heat and disease tolerant.
 
Kentucky 31 tall fescue has a wide range of plant types, with leaves having 
medium to narrow width, tending to roll.  A moderate amount of wax on the leaf 
surfaces gives the foliage a matte green texture.  It is resistant to stem and 
leaf rust and more resistant to crown rust than several of the poor varieties.
 
Kentucky 31 is an ecotype collected in 1931 on the mountain farm of William M. 
Suiter in Menifee County, Kentucky.  The population was under natural 
selection when he purchased the farm around 1875 and presumably traces to seed 
purchased in Virginia.  Local farmers regarded it highly for pasture and 
erosion control, and it is widely adapted for turf and conservation use 
through the Piedmont at the present time.
Clemfine is a medium textured, turf-type tall fescue that provides greater 
density and darker color than most currently available varieties.  It has 
superior heat and drought tolerance when compared to Kentucky 31 and most 
other cultivars.  Clemfine has moderately good resistance to brown patch 
disease and fair resistance to Helminthosporium blight.  It was developed from 
parental clones collected in Wilmington, N.C., Sumter, S.C., and Greenwood, 
S.C.
 
Falcon is a leafy, moderately low-growing, turf-type cultivar with a pleasing 
medium green color.  It can produce an attractive, more persistent turf with 
finer texture and higher density than most of the standard, commercially 
available cultivars of tall fescue.  Improved disease resistance to brown 
patch and netblotch means a more attractive lawn of improved density and 
overall quality.
 
Kenwell, a pasture-type used for turf purposes, is considered satisfactory 
although it is less robust and competitive than Kentucky 31.  It has greater 
tolerance to some leaf diseases and, consequently, maintains better color 
during dry periods and into winter.
Kenhy, a pasture-type adapted for lawn use, was selected for plant vigor, soft 
lax leaves, and high moisture content of green foliage during drought stress.  
It also has greener foliar color and less leaf-roll than Kentucky 31 during 
summer drought stress.
 
Rebel tall fescue, an attractive turf-type, produces a leafy, persistent turf 
of greater density, finer texture, and a slower rate of vertical growth than 
the standard commercially available varieties.  Rebel produces a medium low 
maintenance lawn in either full sun or moderate shade.  It was selected in 
turf trials for persistence, attractiveness, disease resistance, and 
performance when mowed frequently to 3/4 inch, although mowing heights of 2 to 
3 inches are preferred.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SUSCEPTIBILITY OF BROADLEAF WEEDS IN TURFGRASS TO HERBICIDES         
-DOC-
         SUSCEPTIBILITY OF BROADLEAF WEEDS IN TURFGRASS TO HERBICIDES
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Bindweed  
 Convolvulus arvensis               S                S-I                 S
Bittercress
 Cardamine hirsuta                  S                 I                  S
Black medic
 Medicago lupulina                  R                 I                  S
Buttercup
 Ranunculus repens                 S-I                I                  S
Carpetweed
 Mollugo verticillata               S                 S                  S
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Chickweed, common
 Stellaria media                    R                S-I                 S
 mouse-ear
  Cerastium vulgatum               I-R               S-I                 S
Chicory
 Cichorium intybus                  S                 S                  S
Cinquefoil, common
 Potentilla canadensis             S-I               S-I                S-I
Clover, crimson                     
 Trifolium incarnatum               S                 S                  S
  hop
   Trifolium agrarium               I                 S                  S
  white
   Trifolium repens                 I                 S                  S
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Cranesbill
 Geranium carolinianum              S                S-I                 S
Daisy, English
 Bellis perennis                    R                 I                  S
Daisy, oxeye
 Chrysanthemum leucanthemum         I                 I                  I
Dandelion
 Taraxacum spp.                     S                 S                  S
Dock
 Rumex obtusifolius                 I                I-R                 S
Dogfennel
 Eupatorium capillifolium           I                 I                  S
Garlic, wild
 Allium vineale                    S-I                R                 S-I
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
Ground ivy
 Glechoma hederacea                I-R                I                 S-I
Hawkweed
 Hieracium pilosella               S-I                R                 S-I
Healall
 Prunnella vulgaris                S-I               S-I                 S
Henbit
 Lamium amplexicaule                I                 I                  S
Knapweed, spotted
 Centaurea maculosa                 I                 I                  S
Knawel
 Scleranthus annuus                 R                 I                  S
Knotweed
 Polygonum aviculare                R                 I                  S
Lambsquarter
 Chenopodium album                  S                 S                  S
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Lespedeza
 Lespedeza striata                 I-R                S                  S
Mallow, roundleaf
 Malva rotundifolia                I-R                I                 S-I
Mugwort
 Artemesia vulgaris                 I                I-R                S-I
Mustards
 Brassica spp.                      S                 I                  S
Nutsedge
 Cyperus spp.                       I                 R                  R
Onion, wild
 Allium canadense                   I                 R                 S-I
Ornamental plants                  S-I               S-I                 S
Parsley piert
 Alchemilla microcarpa              R                I-R                S-I
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Pearlwort, birdseye
 Sagina procumbens                 I-R                S                  S
Pennycress
 Thalaspi arvense                   S                 I                  S
Pennywort, lawn
 Hydrocotyl sibthorpioides         S-I               S-I                --
Pepperweed
 Lepidium campestri                 S                S-I                 S
Pigweed
 Amaranthus spp.                    S                 S                  S
Pineappleweed
 Matricaria matricarioides         I-R                I                  I
Plantains
 Plantago spp.                      S                I-R                I-R
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Poison ivy
 Rhus spp.                          I                 R                 S-I
Pony foot
 Dichondra spp.                     S                 I                 S-I
Prostrate spurge
 Euphorbia supina                   I                 I                  S
Purslane
 Portulaca oleracea                 I                 R                  S
Red sorrel
 Rumex acetosella                   R                 R                  S
Shepherdspurse
 Capsella bursa-pastoria            S                S-I                 S
Speedwell
 Veronica spp.                     I-R               I-R                I-R
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Spotted spurge
 Euphorbia maculata                I-R               S-I                S-I
Spurrey, corn
 Spergula arvensis                  R                --                  S
Spurweed
 Soliva pterosperma                 R                S-I                S-I
Thistle, musk, curl
 Cirsium spp., Carduus spp.         S                 I                  S
Thistle, Canada
 Salsola kali var. tenuifolia       I                 I                  S
Vegetables                          S                 S                  S
Wild carrot
 Daucus carota                      S                S-I                 S
Wild strawberry
 Fragaria vesca                     R                 R                 S-I
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                         Postemergence herbicides
                               ______________________________________________               
                                                   Mecoprop
Weed                              2,4-D             (MCPP)            Dicamba
_____________________________________________________________________________
 
Wild violet
 Viola spp.                        I-R               I-R                I-R
Woodsorrel
 Oxalis stricta                     R                 R                  I
Yarrow
 Achillea millefolium               I                I-R                 S
Yellow rocket
 Barbarea vulgaris                 S-I                I                 S-I
______________________________________________________________________________
 
S = weed susceptible.
I = intermediate, good control at times with high rates, sometimes poor, 
    usually require more than one treatment.
R = resistant weeds in most instances.
______________________________________________________________________________
  Broadleaf weeds are most easily controlled with postemergence herbicides 
when young and tender.
   Apply postemergence herbicies on winter broadleaf weeds in fall, warm 
periods of winter, and very early spring.
  On summer broadleaf weeds apply postemergence herbicides in spring and early 
summer.
  Repeat applications at 1- to 2-week intervals are usually necessary for 
complete control.
  Many of the broadleaf weeds, especially annuals, can be controlled with a 
preemergence herbicide which kills the germinating seed.  Apply a preemergence 
herb before seed germination.
  To control winter broadleaf weeds from seed, apply a preemergence herbicide 
in late summer (mid-August).
  To control summer broadleaf weeds from seed, apply a preemergence herbicide 
in early spring (March).
  The preceeding herbicides are available under a number of different trade 
names at garden centers, farm supply stores, turf supply dealers, and hard 
ware stores.  Some are available in granular formulations with turf 
fertilizers.  Most are available in liquid formulation for spray application.  
There are a few two-way and three-way combination products for broader spectrum 
broadleaf weed control.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ARTICHOKES, GLOBE; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                
-DOC-
               ARTICHOKES, GLOBE; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
                                                                       
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Globe artichokes grow well on most soil types but prefer soils with some 
clay in them. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ARTICHOKES, GLOBE; VARIETY SELECTION                       
-DOC-
                      ARTICHOKES, GLOBE; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Green Globe and Grande Beurre are the recommended varieties. Green Globe 
should be grown from rooted stem cuttings since seed often produce plants that 
fail to produce eatable buds. The  Grande Beurre variety usually produces 
edible buds when grown from seed. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ARTICHOKE, GLOBE;PLANTING                             
-DOC-
                            ARTICHOKE, GLOBE;PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
                                   
                                         Planting Date 
        
        Piedmont                        Mar. 20- Apr. 20
        Central                         Feb. 25- Mar. 30
        Coastal                         Feb. 15- Mar. 15 
 
   Globe artichokes will withstand light frost and if heavily mulched will 
survive the winter. Space cuttings 4 feet apart in rows 6 feet apart. Plant 
seed thicker and thin to 4 feet. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ARTICHOKE, GLOBE: FERTILIZATION                        
-DOC-
                        ARTICHOKE, GLOBE: FERTILIZATION
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture
 
   All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results.  
Annual sampling is recommended.  Take a composite sample from several 
locations in the garden site.  Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil 
and mix well so that the sample is representative of entire garden.  A pint 
of this soil should be taken to the local county Extension office.  The sample 
will be sent to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be 
returned to you. 
   Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area.  Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row.  The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants.  Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
   If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year.  Do not apply additional lime 
without a new test.  Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor 
growth.
   If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10 applied 
at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested.  This initial application 
will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed by most 
garden vegetables.  On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may 
be required if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs.  This should be applied 
at the rate of 5 lb. per 100 ft. of row.
   Nitrogen sidedressings should be applied every 45 days.  Apply calcium 
nitrate or 15-0-14 at the rate of 2 lb. per 100 ft. of row (1/4 cup per 
plant).
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ARTICHOKE, GLOBE; WATER MANAGEMENT                        
-DOC-
                       ARTICHOKE, GLOBE; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Globe artichokes are fairly drought tolerant and do nicely if they miss an 
occasional watering.       
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION              
-DOC-
             ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Jerusalem artichokes require well drained soils to prevent excessive tuber 
rot. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM; VARIETY SELECTION                     
-DOC-
                    ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
            There are no named varieties of Jerusalem Artichoke. Propogation is 
by planting tubers. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM;PLANTING                          
-DOC-
                         ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM;PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
                                   
                               Planting Date 
        
                  Piedmont                        Mar. 15-30 
                  Central                         Feb. 20- Mar. 10
                  Coastal                         Feb. 1-15 
 
   If all tubers are not harvested Jerusalem artichoke can become a perennial 
and even a weed. Space tubers 12-18 inches in the row. Plant tubers 4 in. deep 
in rows spaced at least 3 feet apart. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM; FERTILIZATION                       
-DOC-
                      ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
   Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
   If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
   If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  applied 
at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial application 
will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed by most garden 
vegetables. On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be 
required if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at 
the rate of 5 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
   Sidedress Jerusalem artichokes with 2 lb. of 15% nitrogen 30 days after 
emergence and again in early September. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM; WATER MANAGEMENT                     
-DOC-
                    ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   If soil type will allow deep root penetration, irrigation can be reduced. 
Perennial artichokes have very deep root systems and can with stand periods of 
dry weather. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEAN, LIMA; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                    
-DOC-
                   BEAN, LIMA; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Lima beans will produce under a wide range of soil conditions but prefer 
fertile well drained loamy soils. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LIMA BEANS; VARIETAL SELECTION                          
-DOC-
                         LIMA BEANS; VARIETAL SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Cangreen, Nemagreen, Early Thorogreen and Bridgeton are the recommended 
small seeded varieties with green seed coats. Henderson  is a small seeded 
variety with a white seed coat. There is very little difference in any of these 
varieties and selection can be made on seed availability. Fordhook 242 is a 
large seeded variety with a white seed coat. Jackson Wonder is a very 
productive small seeded variety with a mottled dark brown seed coat. Dixie 
Butterpea and Speckled Dixie Butterpea seed are not as flat as the standard 
lima beans. The butterpeas have a more delicate  flavor that many find very 
pleasent. All of the above varities have a bush type growth habit. Carolina 
Seiva and Florida Butter are both pole type limas with white and mottled seed 
coats  respectively. They require some type of support to prevent their falling 
over. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEANS, LIMA;PLANTING                                
-DOC-
                               BEANS, LIMA;PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
                                   
                                          Planting Date 
                              Spring                          Fall 
 
        Piedmont            May  1-15                       July 1-15 
        Central             Apr. 5-20                       July 15-20 
        Coastal             Mar. 20-30                      Aug. 1-10 
 
   Plant lima beans 1 in. deep in 3 foot rows. Space seed 3 inches apart. This 
will require approximately 3/4 of a pound of seed per 100 foot of row.  
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEANS, LIMA; FERTILIZATION                           
-DOC-
                          BEANS, LIMA; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
   Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
   If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
   If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  applied 
at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial application 
will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed by most garden 
vegetables. On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be 
required if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at 
the rate of 5 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
   Lima beans should be sidedressed with nitrogen when approximately 6 inches 
tall. Apply calcium nitrate or 15-0-14 at the rate of 2 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
Ammonium nitrate can also be used at the rate of 1 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEAN, LIMA; WATER MANAGEMENT                           
-DOC-
                          BEAN, LIMA; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Adequate water is necessary for stand establishment and is very critical 
during bloom and pod fill. Lack of water during bloom will result in loss of 
blossoms and small pods resulting in low yields. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CANTALOUPE; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                    
-DOC-
                   CANTALOUPE; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Cantaloupes will produce on most soil types but soils with some clay in them 
will produce the highest quality fruit. Avoid wet spots and sandy knolls. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CANTALOUPES; VARIETY SELECTION                          
-DOC-
                         CANTALOUPES; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Ambrosia, Classic and Summit are the recommended varieties for large 
fruited, orange flesh, eastern sutured type melons. Under good growing 
conditions they produce high yields of good quality melons. Their chief fault 
lies in their short shelf life. Hiline, Magnum 45 and Mainstream are western 
shipping type melons. They tend to be smaller and if they have sutures, the 
sutures are shallow and indistinct. Netting on the western type is normally 
heavy and covers the entire fruit. Shelf life of the western types is much 
better than the shelf life of the eastern types. Disease resistance is also 
usually higher with the western types. Yields of the two types are usually 
similar but the  western types normally produce greater numbers of smaller 
fruit. All of the recommended varieties except Mainstream are hybrids and seed 
cost are higher than with the non hybrids. 
   Green Ice and Earli-Dew are green fleshed varieties similar to the green 
fleshed honeydews offered in food stores. Unlike true honeydews both of these 
varieties detach easily from the vine when mature. Earli-Dew is a hybrid while 
Mainstream is an open pollenated variety. Maturity of both is similar to the 
standard cantaloupes and is approximately 85 days from seeding under good 
growing conditions. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CANTALOUPES;PLANTING                               
-DOC-
                              CANTALOUPES;PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
                                   
                                         Planting Date 
                              Spring                        Fall 
   
          Piedmont         Apr. 15- May 15               June 15-30 
          Central          Apr. 1-15                     July 1-20
          Coastal          Mar. 20- Apr. 20              July 15-30 
   
   Space cantaloupe 18-24 inches apart in 5 foot rows. At this spacing 
approximately 1 oz of seed will be required to plant 100 feet of row. Plant 
seed 3/4 to 1 inch deep.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CANTALOUPES:FERTILIZATION                            
-DOC-
                           CANTALOUPES:FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
    If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  
applied at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial 
application will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed 
by most garden vegetables. On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-
10 may be required if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be 
applied at the rate of 5 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
    Sidedress cantaloupes with nitrogen or a nitrogen-potash mixture just 
before the plants start to vine. Apply 15% nitrogen or 15-0-14 at the rate of 
2 lb. per 100 of row. Keep fertilizer materials off of the foliage to prevent 
burning. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CANTALOUPES; WATER MANAGEMENT                          
-DOC-
                         CANTALOUPES; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Adequate water is necessary for stand establishment. A lack of water during 
bloom will result in abortion of the young fruit. While sufficient water is 
necessary for fruit sizing, excess water will reduce quality and may increase 
disease problems. If possible do not wet foliage when irrigating. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CELERY; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                      
-DOC-
                     CELERY; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Celery grows best on muck but will grow satisfactorly on most mineral soils 
if fertilized heavily. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CELERY, VARIETY SELECTION                            
-DOC-
                           CELERY, VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Due to the long growing season required and the high probability of adverse 
weather, celery is not normally planted in South Carolina. Florida 683 appears 
to be a consistent performer under a wide range of conditions and should 
perform well in the garden. Utah 52-70 or one of the Pascal strains should also 
be satisfactory. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CELERY; PLANTING                                 
-DOC-
                                CELERY; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
   Celery requires approximately 90 days from transplanting to maturity. As 
much as 90 days are required to grow the  transplants. This long growing season 
makes it extremely difficult to grow celery in the home garden. Transplant at 
last frost date in your area for the spring crop. Plant seed bed for fall crop 
75 days prior to anticipated transplanting date. Transplant in mid July in the 
piedmont and by Aug. 10 along the coast.           
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CELERY; FERTILIZATION                             
-DOC-
                             CELERY; FERTILIZATION
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire den area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. If 
a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  applied at 
the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial application 
will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed by most 
garden vegetables. 
    On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be required if 
heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at the rate of 5 
lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
    Celery requires large amounts of nitrogen. Sidedress ever 4 weeks with 
calcium nitrate at the rate of 2 lb. per 100 ft. of row. Make the first 
application 2 weeks after transplanting. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CELERY; WATER MANAGEMENT                              
-DOC-
                             CELERY; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Celery requires a constant supply of moisture during the entire growing 
season. Inadequate soil moisture will result in small size and tough stringy 
petioles. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN, SWEET; SITE SELECTION AND PREPERATION                   
-DOC-
                  CORN, SWEET; SITE SELECTION AND PREPERATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptible 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Sweet corn will grow satisfactorily on most soil types. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN, SWEET; VARIETY SELECTION                          
-DOC-
                         CORN, SWEET; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Golden Queen, Calmuet, Commanche, Commander, Long Chief, Merit, Seneca 
Chief, and Sugar Loaf are the recommended standard yellow sweet corn varieties. 
Numerous new supersweet varieties (sh2 gene) are being offered each year by the 
seed companies. Most of these are very sweet and hold their sweetness much 
longer than the standard varieties. The supersweets do not have the milky 
texture of standard varieties and may have a crispness that some may find 
objectional. To maintain the genetic ability to produce extra sweet ears they 
must be separated from standard varieties by distance or maturity differences. 
As a group the supersweets lack seed vigor and do not perform well under cold 
soil conditions. 
   Silver Queen is the standard by which sweet corn varieties are judged and is 
highly recommended as a standard white variety. Comet is suggested as an early 
white variety for the lower coastal plains. How Sweet It Is (white) is an 
excellent quality  supersweet variety but does require separation. Snowbelle 
and Silverado are two new high sugar varieties that retain the thin pericarp 
and texture of the standard varieties. The increased sweetness obtained with 
these varieties is due to a sugar extender gene (se). Separation is not 
necessary but does insure highest quality. 
   Calico is the recommended standard bicolor variety. New varieties with the 
sugar extender or sh2 genes are being developed annually and may be added to 
the recommendations as testing permits. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN, SWEET; PLANTING                               
-DOC-
                              CORN, SWEET; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
 
                                         Planting Date 
                              Spring                        Fall 
 
        Piedmont            Apr. 15-30                   -----------
        Central             Mar. 20-Apr. 30              -----------
        Coastal             Mar. 10-Apr. 30              -----------
        
   Sweet corn can withstand some cool weather and can be one of the first warm 
season crops planted in the spring. Plant sweet corn in 3 foot rows and space 
seed 10 inches apart in the row. Plant seed 1 inch deep. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN, SWEET; FERTILIZATION                           
-DOC-
                          CORN, SWEET; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
    If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  
applied at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial 
application will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed 
by most garden vegetables. 
   On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be required if 
heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at the rate of 5 
lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
    Sweet corn should be sidedressed with nitrogen at least 2 times after 
emergence. The first application should be applied when the plants are 6 in. 
tall. The second application should be applied when they are 18 in. tall. A 
third application can be made 2 weeks later if plant spacing allows. Sidedress 
with calcium nitrate (15% N) or 15-0-14 at the rate of 2 lb. per 100 ft. of 
row or ammonium nitrate at the rate 1 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CORN, SWEET; WATER MANAGEMENT                          
-DOC-
                         CORN, SWEET; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   The most critical period in the development of sweet corn is  the 2 week 
period between silking and harvest maturity. Maintain a high level of soil 
moisture during this period. Inadequate moisture during this period will result 
in small ears with poor fill. A condition known as dry back, where developing 
kernels loose moisture and shrivel,is caused by inadequate water during this 
stage of development. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CUCUMBERS, PICKLING; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION               
-DOC-
              CUCUMBERS, PICKLING; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Pickling cucumbers grow satisfactorily on any well drained soil. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CUCUMBER, PICKLING; VARIETY SELECTION                      
-DOC-
                     CUCUMBER, PICKLING; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Witlon P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Calypso, Carolina, Explorer, and Triplemech are the recommended hybrid 
pickle cucumber varieties. They are all gynoecious hybrids which means that 
they produce female flowers at each leaf axil. Under normal growing conditions 
they do not produce any male flowers and must be pollenated by a monoecious 
variety which produces both male and female flowers. The seed companies take 
care of the pollenation situition by blending approximately 15 percent of a 
male parent in with the gynoecious female parent. Since the gynoecious hybrids 
produce so many female flowers they have the potential to produce very high 
yields in a short period of time. With a heavy fruit load there is a greater 
potential for stress resulting in mishapen fruit. Plant the gynoecious hybrids 
to a stand and do not thin. 
     
   Chipper and Pixie are the recommended standard or monocious varieties. While 
not quite as productive as the gynoecious hybrids they bear fruit over a longer 
period of time and are less susceptible to stress conditions. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CUCUMBER, PICKLING; PLANTING                            
-DOC-
                           CUCUMBER, PICKLING; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
                                   
                                         Planting Date
                              Spring                        Fall
 
        Piedmont           Apr. 15-May 15                July 1-15
        Central            Apr. 1-15                     Aug. 1-10
        Coastal            Mar. 20-30                    Aug. 1-20
 
   Plant cucumbers 1 inch deep in 4-6 foot rows. Plants should be spaced 9-12
inches apart. At this spacing 1 ounce of seed will plant 100 feet of row. Do 
not plant cucumbers until the soil temperature is higher than 60 degrees at the 
4 inch level. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CUCUMBER, PICKLING; FERTILIZATION                        
-DOC-
                       CUCUMBER, PICKLING; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
    If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  
applied at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial 
application will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed 
by most garden vegetables. 
    On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be required if
heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at the rate of 5 
lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
    Sidedress cucumbers with nitrogen just as they begin to vine. Place the 
nitrogen 6 in from the base of the plant. Apply at the rate of 2 lb. of 
calcium nitrate per 100 ft. of row.  
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CUCUMBERS, PICKLING; WATER MANAGEMENT                      
-DOC-
                     CUCUMBERS, PICKLING; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Adequate water is very important during fruiting. Moisture stress during 
this period will result in low yields and misshapen cucumbers. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CUCUMBERS,SLICING; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                
-DOC-
               CUCUMBERS,SLICING; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Slicing cucumbers grow satisfactorily on most well drained soils. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CUCUMBERS, SLICING; VARIETY SELECTION                      
-DOC-
                     CUCUMBERS, SLICING; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Ashley, Poinsett, and Poinsett 76 are the recommended standard or monoecious 
varieties. Ashley does not have quite as much disease resistance as the other 
two varieties but is still a good highly productive variety. Sprint, Dasher II, 
and Centurian are very productive gynoecious hybrids that produce female 
flowers at each node. Since they do not normally produce male flowers, they 
must be pollenated by a standard monoecious variety. The seed companies take 
care of pollenation by blending seed of a standard variety in with the hybrid 
seed. Gynoecious hybrids should be planted to a stand and not thinned since the 
less vigorous non hybrids are often removed leaving only the female plants. 
   Burpless and Sweet Slice are non bitter varieties that can be eaten by 
people who can normally not eat cucumbers. Both varieties are hybrids and 
produce parthenocarpic fruit. This means that fruit are produced without 
pollination and that the seed do not mature. Since most digestive problems 
associated with eating cucumbers are due to components in the developing seed, 
these varieties can be eaten without digestive upset. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CUCUMBER, SLICING; PLANTING                           
-DOC-
                          CUCUMBER, SLICING; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
                                   
                                         Planting Date 
                              Spring                        Fall 
 
         Piedmont           Apr. 15-May 15                July 1-15
         Central            Apr. 1-15                     Aug. 1-10
         Coastal            Mar. 20-30                    Aug. 1-20
    
   Plant cucumbers 1 inch deep in 4-6 foot rows. Plants should be spaced 9-12
inches apart. At this spacing 1 ounce of seed will plant 100 feet of row. Do 
not plant cucumbers until the soil temperature is higher than 60 degrees at the 
4 inch level. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CUCUMBER, SLICING; FERTILIZATION                        
-DOC-
                       CUCUMBER, SLICING; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
    If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  
applied at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial 
application will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed 
by most garden vegetables. 
    On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be required if
heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at the rate of 5 
lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
    Sidedress cucumbers with nitrogen just as they begin to vine. Place the 
nitrogen 6 in from the base of the plant. Apply at the rate of 2 lb. of 
calcium nitrate per 100 ft. of row.  
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CUCUMBERS, SLICING; WATER MANAGEMENT                       
-DOC-
                      CUCUMBERS, SLICING; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Adequate water is very important during fruiting. Moisture stress during 
this period will result in low yields and misshapen cucumbers. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EGGPLANT; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                     
-DOC-
                    EGGPLANT; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Eggplants grow satisfactorily on most garden sites. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EGGPLANT, VARIETY SELECTION                           
-DOC-
                          EGGPLANT, VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Florida Market 10 and Gator are the recommended open pollenated varieties . 
Dusky and Classic are the recommended hybrids. As a general rule hybrids are 
earlier and more productive than non hybrids. The non hybrids often produce 
fruit over a longer period of time. Florida Market 10 is noted for season long 
production but hot weather may prevent production during the middle of summer. 
Dusky is the earliest of the varieties. Unusual types include  White Egg which 
produces as the name implies small white egg shaped fruit. Oriental type 
eggplant varieties are long and slender. Tycoon, a new hybrid appears to be a 
good choice to try if this type eggplant is desired. All of these varieties 
with the exception of White Egg are dark purple in color. All of the varieties 
are suitable for any eggplant usage including freezing.     
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EGGPLANT; PLANTING                                
-DOC-
                               EGGPLANT; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
                                   
                                        Planting Date * 
                             Spring                        Fall 
 
        Piedmont           May 1-15                      July 1-15
        Central            Apr. 10-25                    July 10-20
        Coastal            Mar. 25-Apr. 10               July 10-25
        
        *Transplant plants
 
Eggplants should be planted in rows 3-5 feet wide with an in-row spacing of 18 
inches. Set transplants slightly deeper than originally grown.  
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EGGPLANT; FERTILIZATION                             
-DOC-
                            EGGPLANT; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
    If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  
applied at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial 
application will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed 
by most garden vegetables. 
    On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be required if 
heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at the rate of 5
lb. per 100 ft. of row.
    Sidedress eggplants with nitrogen twice during the growing season. The 
first application should be applied 2 weeks after transplanting. Apply the 
second sidedressing 4 weeks after the first application. If production from a 
spring planting is to be extended into the fall, prune the bushes back and 
sidedress with nitrogen or a complete fertilizer. Sidedress a second time 4
weeks later. All sidedressings should be applied at the rate of 2 lb. of 15%
nitrogen per 100 ft. of row or equivalent. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
EGGPLANT; WATER MANAGEMENT                            
-DOC-
                           EGGPLANT; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Water thoroughly at transplanting. Moisture is very important during fruit 
set and development. Inadequate water during this period will result in reduced 
fruit set, small size and reduced quality. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GINGER; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                      
-DOC-
                     GINGER; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Ginger will grow on most soils and is well adapted to growing in containers. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GINGER, VARIETY SELECTION                            
-DOC-
                           GINGER, VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
     
   Ginger has not been separated into varieties. Purchase tubers through normal 
seed suppliers. Tubers can also be purchased in food stores. Choose only sound 
disease free tubers. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GINGER;PLANTING                                 
-DOC-
                                GINGER;PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
   Plant ginger after the soil has reached at least 65 degrees at the 4 in 
depth. This will normally be after May 1 in the piedmont, mid April in the 
center of the state, and early April along the coast. Space ginger 12 inches 
apart in 3 ft rows. Plant the tubers 2-3 inches deep. Large tuber can be cut 
into smaller pieces. Ginger is easily grown in containers. Use any well drained 
potting soil or fertile top soil. Plant 2-3 tubers in each container and cover 
with 2-3 of additional soil. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GINGER; FERTILIZATION                              
-DOC-
                             GINGER; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
    If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  
applied at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial 
application will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed 
by most garden vegetables. 
    On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be required if 
heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at the rate of 5 
lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
    If ginger is grown in containers it should be fertilized with a water 
soluble fertilizer once a month following the recommendations for that 
particular fertilizer material. If grown in the garden, it should be 
sidedressed with nitrogen 30 days after planting and again in early August. 
Apply nitrogen (15% N) at the rate of 2 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 

-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
GINGER; WATER MANAGEMENT                             
-DOC-
                            GINGER; WATER MANAGEMENT 
              Wilton P. Cook, Associate Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Ginger grown in containers should be kept moderately dry. Water thoroughly 
and allow soil to become dry before watering again. Do not allow the soil to 
become water logged or rotting may result. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HONEYDEW; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                     
-DOC-
                    HONEYDEW; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Honeydew melons will grow on most soil types but prefer some clay in the 
soil. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HONEYDEW MELONS, VARIETY SELECTION                        
-DOC-
                       HONEYDEW MELONS, VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   True honey dew melons are extremely difficult to grow in South Carolina. New 
developments in plant breeding have led to the release of green flesh 
cantaloupes that are of excellent quality. Refer to cantaluopes for information 
on these varieties. Green Flesh Honeydew is the the standard variety. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HONEYDEW; PLANTING                                
-DOC-
                               HONEYDEW; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
 
                                         Planting Date 
                              Spring                        Fall
   
        Piedmont           Apr. 15- May 15               June 15-30
        Central            Apr. 1-15                     July 1-20
        Coastal            Mar. 20- Apr. 20              July 15-30
 
   Space honeydew melons 18-24 inches apart in 5 foot rows. At this spacing 
approximately 1 oz of seed will be required to plant 100 feet of row. Plant see 
3/4 to 1 inch deep. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HONEYDEW; FERTILIZATION                             
-DOC-
                            HONEYDEW; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
    If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  
applied at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial 
application will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed 
by most garden vegetables. On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-
10 may be required if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be 
applied at the rate of 5 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
    Sidedress honeydew melons with nitrogen or a nitrogen-potash mixture just 
before the plants start to vine. Apply 15% nitrogen or 15-0-14 at the rate of 
2 lb. per 100 of row. Keep fertilizer materials off of the foliage to prevent 
burning. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
HONEYDEW; WATER MANAGEMENT                            
-DOC-
                           HONEYDEW; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Adequate water is necessary for stand establishment. A lack of water during 
bloom will result in abortion of the young fruit. While sufficient water is 
necessary for fruit sizing, excess water will reduce quality and may increase 
disease problems. If possible do not wet foliage when irrigating. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MUSHROOM, SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                     
-DOC-
                    MUSHROOM, SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                    Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Soil requirements for mushrooms are very exacting. Purchase sterilized soil
from mushroom supply dealers. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MUSHROOMS; WATER MANAGEMENT                           
-DOC-
                          MUSHROOMS; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Growing media should be keep moist at all times but must not be allowed to 
become water logged. High humidity is also necessary in the growing chamber 
during formation of the mushrooms  or the mushrooms will lose moisture and 
shrivel. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
COMPARATIVE CHART OF PRINCIPAL WARM-SEASON GRASSES (SOUTH CAROLINA)      
-DOC-
      COMPARATIVE CHART OF PRINCIPAL WARM-SEASON GRASSES (SOUTH CAROLINA)
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
_____________________________________________________________________________
                Area best          How            When           Rate of
Grass           adapted        established    established        spread
_____________________________________________________________________________
Common                            Sprigs or
 Bermuda            All           seed          Spring           Very fast  
_____________________________________________________________________________
Tiflawn
 Bermuda            All           Sprigs        Spring           Very fast
_____________________________________________________________________________
Tifway
 Bermuda            All           Sprigs        Spring           Very fast
_____________________________________________________________________________
Tifgreen
 Bermuda            All           Sprigs        Spring           Very fast
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                  Sprigs or
Centipede           All           seed          Spring           Moderate
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
St. Augustine       Coast         Sprigs        Spring           Moderate
______________________________________________________________________________                                                                             
Zoysia         
 matrella           All           Sprigs        Spring           Slow
______________________________________________________________________________
Meyer
 Zoysia             All           Sprigs        Spring           Slow
______________________________________________________________________________
Emerald
 Zoysia             All           Sprigs        Spring           Slow
______________________________________________________________________________
Zoysia                            Seed or       Winter
 japonica                         Sprigs        Spring           Slow
______________________________________________________________________________
Carpetgrass         Coast         Seed          Spring           Slow
______________________________________________________________________________
 COMPARATIVE CHART OF PRINCIPAL WARM-SEASON GRASSES (SOUTH CAROLINA) cont'd
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                     Shade           Sun           Traffic                
Grass              Texture         Tolerance      Tolerance       Tolerance
_____________________________________________________________________________
Common              
 Bermuda            Medium fine    Very poor      Very good       Very good
_____________________________________________________________________________
Tiflawn
 Bermuda            Medium fine    Very poor      Very good       Very good 
_____________________________________________________________________________
Tifway
 Bermuda            Medium fine    Very poor      Very good       Very good
_____________________________________________________________________________
Tifgreen
 Bermuda            Very fine      Very poor      Very good       Good
_____________________________________________________________________________
Centipede           Medium coarse  Medium         Good            Fair
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_____________________________________________________________________________                                                                             
St. Augustine       Coarse         Very good      Good            Fair
_____________________________________________________________________________
Zoysia         
 matrella           Very fine      Good           Good            Very good
_____________________________________________________________________________
Meyer
 Zoysia             Medium         Good           Good            Very good
_____________________________________________________________________________
Emerald
 Zoysia             Very fine      Good           Good            Very good
_____________________________________________________________________________
Zoysia
 japonica           Coarse         Good           Good            Very good
_____________________________________________________________________________
Carpetgrass         Medium         Medium         Good            Fair
_____________________________________________________________________________
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OKRA, VARIETY SELECTION                              
-DOC-
                            OKRA, VARIETY SELECTION  
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Clemson Spineless, Emerald and Lee are the recommended standard okra
varieties. Clemson Spineless is the standard by which other varieties are
judged. It is very productive with pods that are ridged and angular. Emerald
has round slender pods that are longer and darker green than Clemson Spineless.
Lee produces star shaped pods on a smaller bush than the other varieties. Annie 
Oakley is a new hybrid okra similiar in appearance to Clemson Spineless but 
with a higher yield potential. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OKRA;PLANTING                                   
-DOC-
                                  OKRA;PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
                                      
                                         Planting Date 
                              Spring                        Fall
      
        Piedmont            May 1-15                      June 15-30
        Central             Apr. 10-30                    June 15-30
        Coastal             Apr. 1-20                     June 15-30
      
          Stand establishment can be a problem if okra is planted too early. 
Allow soil to warm to at least 65 degrees before planting. Okra should be 
planted in 3 ft rows with 9 in between plants. At this spacing 1 oz of seed 
will plant 100 ft of row. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OKRA; FERTILIZATION                               
-DOC-
                              OKRA; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
    If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  
applied at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial 
application will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed 
by most garden vegetables. 
    On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be required if
heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at the rate of 5
lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
    Care should be taken not to over fertilize okra. Do not sidedress unless 
plants appear to be suffering from a lack of fertilizer. If a sidedressing is 
indicated use a complete fertilizer at the rate 2 lb. per 100 ft. of row.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OKRA; WATER MANAGEMENT                              
-DOC-
                             OKRA; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   A shortage of water will slow plant growth and reduce yields. Quality will 
also be reduced due to increased fiber development. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
OKRA; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                       
-DOC-
                      OKRA; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Okra will grow satisfactorily on most soil types. Avoid very fertile sites to 
reduce excessive vegetative growth. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEAS, SOUTHERN; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                  
-DOC-
                 PEAS, SOUTHERN; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Southern peas grow well on most soil types but production is higher if 
fertility levels are not excessively high. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEAS, SOUTHERN; VARIETY SELECTION                        
-DOC-
                       PEAS, SOUTHERN; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   There are many different varieties of southern peas. Most of them are 
suitable for home garden use and varietal selection can normally be based on 
personal preference. The following varieties have performed well in the past 
and are recommended for those who do not have a favorite variety. Knuckle 
Purple Hulled Crowder, Mississippi Silver, Purple Tip Crowder, Big Boy, Purple 
Hull Pink Eye, Colossus 80, Mississippi Purple, Dixielee, and Hercules. 
   Mississippi Silver is a heavy yielding cream fleshed pea with excellent 
flavor that freezes well. Purple Hull Pink Eye is a standard variety for 
commercial canning. Colossus 80 and Hercules are both large seeded varieties 
with high yield potential. Hercules is 2 weeks later in maturity than Colossus 
80 so the two varieties can be planted at the same time for an extended harvest 
period.    
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEAS, SOUTHERN; PLANTING                            
-DOC-
                           PEAS, SOUTHERN; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
   
                                         Planting Date 
                               Spring                        Fall
      
        Piedmont            May 1-30                      June 1-30
        Central             Apr. 10-30                    July 20-30
        Coastal             Mar. 25- Apr. 10              Aug. 1-10
     
   Space southern peas 4 in apart in 3 ft rows. At this spacing 1/2 pound of 
seed will plant 100 feet of row. Seed should be planted 1 in deep. Do not plant 
into cold soil. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEAS, SOUTHERN; FERTILIZATION                          
-DOC-
                         PEAS, SOUTHERN; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
   Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
   If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
   If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  applied 
at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial application 
will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed by most 
garden vegetables. On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be 
required if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at 
the rate of 5 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
   Southern peas normally do not need to be sidedressed with nitrogen. They 
are legumes and make their own nitrogen. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEAS, SOUTHERN; WATER MANAGEMENT                         
-DOC-
                        PEAS, SOUTHERN; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Southern peas are fairly drought tolerant. Extended drought during flowering 
and pod fill will result in reduced set and poor pod fill. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEPPER, HOT; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                   
-DOC-
                  PEPPER, HOT; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Hot pepper will grow satisfactorily on most soil types. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEPPER, HOT; VARIETY SELECTION                          
-DOC-
                         PEPPER, HOT; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   There are many varieties of hot pepper that are adapted for use in South 
Carolina and selection of variety depends on intended use and degree of hotness 
desired. Carolina cayenne is a new variety developed from the old variety 
Carolina Hot. Carolina Cayenne pods are slender and approximately 4" long with 
thin walls. Mature pods are bright red and the pungency matches its color. 
Carolina Cayenne is very hot and has resistance to root knot nematode. Long 
Thin Cayenne is longer and has thinner walls than Carolina Cayenne. It is also 
not as pungent and does not have nematode resistance. Green Leaf Tabasco is a 
smaller tabasco type pepper that is also very hot. Numerous varieties of 
Jalapeno peppers are available. All Jalapeno peppers have relatively thick 
walls and are much shorter and thicker than the cayennes. Jalapeno peppers vary 
in pungency from very hot to mild. For those who like yellow fleshed pepper the 
variety Hungarian Yellow Wax is recommended. This variety is relatively hot and 
can be distinguished from the variety Sweet Banana which it resembles,   by the 
upright growth habit of the fruit. Red Chili is the recommended variety of 
chili pepper. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEPPER, HOT; PLANTING                               
-DOC-
                              PEPPER, HOT; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
                               
                                         Planting Date *
                              Spring                        Fall
      
        Piedmont            May 1- 30                     July 1-15 
        Central             Apr. 5-25                     July 10-20
        Coastal             Mar. 25- Apr.10               July 15-25
        
        *Transplants
      
Space transplants 12-18 in apart in 36 in rows. Set transplants slightly deeper 
than they were originally grown. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEPPER, HOT; FERTILIZATION                           
-DOC-
                          PEPPER, HOT; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
    If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  
applied at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial 
application will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed 
by most garden vegetables. 
    On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be required if 
heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at the rate of 5 
lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
    Sidedress pepper with 2 lb. of calcium nitrate (15% N) 2 weeks after 
planting and again 4 weeks later. If the plants are carried through the summer 
they should be sidedressed every 4 weeks.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEPPER, HOT; WATER MANAGEMENT                          
-DOC-
                         PEPPER, HOT; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Water thoroughly when transplanting. Hot pepper is fairly tolerant of 
moisture stress but extended drought will reduce yields. Peppers grown under 
dry conditions will be more pungent than peppers grown with adequate moisture. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEPPER, SWEET; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                  
-DOC-
                 PEPPER, SWEET; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full dun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Sweet peppers will grow satisfactorily on most soil types. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEPPERS, SWEET; VARIETY SELECTION                        
-DOC-
                       PEPPERS, SWEET; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Yolo Wonder L, Keystone Resistant Giant 3, Pip, and Jupiter  are the 
recommended varieties of standard type bell peppers. These varieties are all 
blocky in shape, dark green in color and have 3-4 lobes. They turn red when 
mature. Marengo is a new very productive hybrid that looks like all other bell 
types until it reaches maturity. When mature Marengo is bright yellow in color. 
Gypsy is a sweet pepper in a class by itself. Gypsy is slightly smaller in 
diameter than standard bell types and is  approximately twice as long as it is 
thick. The most intresting thing about Gypsy is its light yellow color that 
turns red when mature. Trueheart is the recommended pimento variety. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEPPER, SWEET; PLANTING                              
-DOC-
                             PEPPER, SWEET; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
 
                                         Planting Date *
                              Spring                        Fall
 
        Piedmont            May 1- 30                     July 1-15 
        Central             Apr. 5-25                     July 10-20
        Coastal             Mar. 25- Apr.10               July 15-25
        
        *Transplants
   
Space transplants 12-18 in apart in 36 in rows. Set transplants slightly deeper 
than they were originally grown. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEPPER, SWEET; FERTILIZATION                          
-DOC-
                         PEPPER, SWEET; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
    If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  
applied at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial 
application will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed 
by most garden vegetables. 
    On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be required if 
heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at the rate of 5 
lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
    Sidedress pepper with 2 lb. of calcium nitrate (15% N) 2 weeks after 
planting and again 4 weeks later. If the plants are carried through the summer 
they should be sidedressed every 4 weeks. The use of calcium nitrate as the 
sidedressing material will help prevent losses to blossom end rot.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PEPPER, SWEET; WATER MANAGEMENT                         
-DOC-
                        PEPPER, SWEET; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Water pepper plants thoroughly when transplanting. Moisture stress is 
related to a number of pepper production problems. Sun scald on pepper fruit is 
usually associated with a lack of water. Blossom end rot is often a result of 
uneven soil moisture and may result from either an excess or a lack of water. 
An even soil moisture supply will help eliminate these problems. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POTATO, SWEET; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                  
-DOC-
                 POTATO, SWEET; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Sweet potatoes will grow on most soil types but the smoothest best shaped 
roots are produced on sandy soils low in organic matter. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POTATOES, SWEET; VARIETY SELECTION                        
-DOC-
                       POTATOES, SWEET; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Centennial, Cherokee, Jewel, and Regal are the recommended varieties of 
orange fleshed sweetpotatoes. All are well suited for home garden use. Jewel is 
the standard variety for commercial production. Regal is a new release that is 
similar to Jewel but Regal has resistance to a number of soil insects that feed 
on sweetpotatoes. This insect resistance makes Regal an excellent variety for 
the home garden since good quality potatoes can be grown with out using soil 
insecticides. Sumor is a new white flesh variety that does not have the high 
sugar content normally found in sweetpotatoes. It is intended as a substitute 
for Irish potatoes and can be used in recipes calling for Irish potatoes. Sumor 
also has the same high level of insect resistance as Regal. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POTATOES, SWEET; PLANTING                            
-DOC-
                           POTATOES, SWEET; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
   Sweet potatoes should not be planted until the soil is well above 65 
degrees. This will usually not occur until mid to late April along the coast 
and early to mid may in the midlands and piedmont. Space sweet potatoes 8 in. 
apart in 36 in. rows. Transplants should be planted at least 4 in. deep and 
have at least 2 nodes in the soil. Sweet potatoes require approximately 120 
days to reach maturity.                       
                                      
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POTATOES, SWEET; FERTILIZATION                          
-DOC-
                         POTATOES, SWEET; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent to 
Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to you. 
   Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the plants. 
Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and not place 
it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the row. 
   If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without a 
new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
   If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  applied 
at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial application 
will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed by most garden 
vegetables. On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be required 
if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at the rate of 
5 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
   Sidedress sweet potatoes with 4 pounds of 5-10-10 as the vines begin to mat 
the row. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POTATO, SWEET; WATER MANAGEMENT                         
-DOC-
                        POTATO, SWEET; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Water transplants thoroughly immediately after setting. Inadequate soil 
moisture will reduce yields. Extended drought followed by irrigation or 
rainfall will result in cracking of the enlarging roots. Excess moisture will 
cause rotting and poor quality. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PUMPKIN; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                     
-DOC-
                    PUMPKIN; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Pumpkins grow well on most soil types. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PUMPKIN, VARIETY SELECTION                            
-DOC-
                           PUMPKIN, VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Funny Face and Jack O'Lantern are standard type pumpkins suitable for cooking 
or carving. Spirit and Jackpot are similiar sized hybrids. All of these 
varieties are yellow-orange to orange in color and average 8-10 pounds in 
weight. Spirit produces the smallest fruit of the group and requires the 
smallest area for growth. Spirit does not vine but grows as a bush. Jackpot 
does vine but requires less space than standard pumpkins. As a rule the hybrids 
are more productive than standard varieties. Small Sugar is recommended if 
cooking is the only intended use for the fruit. 
   Howden is the recommended variety if a larger dual purpose pumpkin is 
desired. It is deep orange in color and will weigh 20-30 pounds. Big Max and 
Big Moon produce very large pumpkins for novelty use but require a lot of space 
and are not as good for cooking purposes as the smaller type varieties. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PUMPKIN; PLANTING                                
-DOC-
                               PUMPKIN; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
   Pumpkin can of course be planted in the spring like all of the other vine 
crops. If planted in the spring wait until the danger of frost is past. 
Cucumber planting dates should be followed for spring planting. Most pumpkins 
are planted for use in the fall at Halloween or Thanksgiving. Planting dates 
for fall depend more on variety than on frost dates. Fall planted pumpkins 
should mature by early October. Most varieties require between 90 and 110 days 
from planting to maturity in the spring. In the fall they will mature about 10 
days earlier. Plant 90 day maturity varieties by July 10. Varieties with 110 
day maturities should be planted in mid to late June. 
   Space pumpkins 6 feet apart in the row. Rows should be 6-8 feet apart. Plant 
several seed and thin to 1 plant per hill. Fall planted pumpkins are very 
susceptible to both insects and diseases and a spray program must be followed 
if they are to be grown successfully. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PUMPKINS; FERTILIZATION                             
-DOC-
                            PUMPKINS; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fetilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
    If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  
applied at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial 
application will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed 
by most garden vegetables. On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-
10 may be required if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be 
applied at the rate of 5 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
    Sidedress pumpkins with nitrogen or a nitrogen-potash mixture just before 
the plants start to vine. Apply 15% nitrogen or 15-0-14 at the rate of 2 lb. 
per 100 of row. Keep fertilizer materials off of the foliage to prevent 
burning. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PUMPKIN; WATER MANAGEMENT                            
-DOC-
                           PUMPKIN; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Pumpkins are fairly drought tolerant. Yields and size will be reduced if 
extended periods of drought occur during fruit development. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SQUASH, SUMMER; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                  
-DOC-
                 SQUASH, SUMMER; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Summer squash prefer well drained sites. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SQUASH, SUMMER; VARIETY SELECTION                        
-DOC-
                       SQUASH, SUMMER; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Yellow Crookneck, Dixie, and Ranger are the recommended varieties of 
crookneck squash. Dixie is a hybrid while the other two varieties are non 
hybrids. Because of the extremely high yield potential, earliness, excellent 
color and smoothness, Dixie has become the predominant crookneck variety. Early 
Prolific, Multipic, and Lemondrop L are the recommended straightneck squash 
varieties. Since Lemondrop L and Multipic are hybrids they  tend  to be earlier 
than the non hybrid Early Prolific. Yield potential is also higher with the 
hybrids. Multipic maintains its yellow color and resists greening better when 
attacked by certain viruses than the other recommended varieties. Seneca 
Zucchini and Senator are the recommended zucchini varieties. Both are hybrids 
and are very prolific and produce high yields of excellent quality fruit. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SQUASH, SUMMER; PLANTING                            
-DOC-
                           SQUASH, SUMMER; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
   
                                         Planting Date 
                              Spring                        Fall
 
        Piedmont           Apr. 15-May 15                July 1-20
        Central            Apr. 1-20                     Aug. 1-15
        Coastal            Mar. 20-Apr. 10               Aug. 10-25
        
   Plant summer squash 1 inch deep in 36 inch rows. Plants should be spaced 15 
inches apart. At this spacing 1 ounce of seed will plant 100 feet of row. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SQUASH, SUMMER; FERTILIZATION                          
-DOC-
                         SQUASH, SUMMER; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
   Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
   If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
   If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  applied 
at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial application 
will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed by most garden 
vegetables. On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be 
required if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at 
the rate of 5 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
   Sidedress summer squash with nitrogen or a nitrogen-potash mixture when the 
plants are 6 inches tall. Apply 15% nitrogen or 15-0-14 at the rate of 2 
lb. per 100 of row. Keep fertilizer materials off of the foliage to prevent 
burning. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SQUASH, SUMMER; WATER MANAGEMENT                         
-DOC-
                        SQUASH, SUMMER; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Adequate moisture is necessary for stand establishment. Drought during 
flowering will result in poor fruit set and reduced yields. Do not water squash 
in the morning since water can collect in the blossoms and prevent pollenation. 
After mid afternoon all pollenation will have been completed and irrigation can 
be applied as needed. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SQUASH, WINTER; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                  
-DOC-
                 SQUASH, WINTER; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Winter squash prefer moderately fertile well drained sites. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SQUASH, WINTER; VARIETY SELECTION                        
-DOC-
                       SQUASH, WINTER; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Buttercup, Butternut, Royal Acorn, and Table Ace are the recommended 
varieties of winter squash. Buttercup is a turban type squash that is very 
uniform in size and shape and produces excellent quality fruit. Butternut fruit 
are light tan in color, straight and form a bulb around the seed cavity. Royal 
Acorn is a large fruited acorn type squash. Table Ace is a smaller more refined 
acorn variety that is very productive and produces excellent quality fruit. 
Numerous new winter squash hybrid varieties are being developed by the seed 
companies. Most of them are improvements over the old standard types and are 
worthy of trial plantings. All of the winter squash store well and can be 
succesfully canned or frozen. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SQUASH, WINTER; PLANTING                              
-DOC-
                             SQUASH, WINTER; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
                                      
                                         Planting Date 
                              Spring                        Fall
 
        Piedmont           Apr. 20-May 15                  ------
        Central            Apr. 15-30                      ------
        Coastal            Mar. 20-Apr. 10                 Aug. 1-10
 
   Plant winter squash 1 inch deep in 4-6 foot rows.  Plants should be spaced 
36-48 inches apart. At this spacing 1/2 ounce of seed will plant 100 feet of 
row. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SQUASH, WINTER; FERTILIZATION                          
-DOC-
                         SQUASH, WINTER; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
   Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
   If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
   If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  applied 
at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial application 
will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed by most garden 
vegetables. On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be 
required if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at 
the rate of 5 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
   Sidedress winter squash with nitrogen or a nitrogen-potash mixture when the 
plants are 6 inches tall or just before vining. Apply 15% nitrogen or 15-0-14 
at the rate of 2 lb. per 100 of row. Keep fertilizer materials off of the
foliage to prevent burning. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SQUASH, WINTER; WATER MANAGEMENT                         
-DOC-
                        SQUASH, WINTER; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Adequate moisture is necessary for stand establishment. Drought during 
flowering will result in poor fruit set and reduced yields. Do not water squash 
in the morning since water can collect in the blossoms and prevent pollenation. 
After mid afternoon all pollenation will have been completed and irrigation can 
be applied as needed. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOMATO; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                      
-DOC-
                     TOMATO; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Tomatoes grow best on fertile well drained soils high in organic matter but 
will grow satisfactorily on most soils types. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOMATO, VARIETY SELECTION                            
-DOC-
                           TOMATO, VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Floradel, Manapal, and Tropic are strong indeterminate non hybrid varieties. 
They produce large plants and medium to large fruit. Tropic produces deeper and 
even larger fruit than the other two varieties. All have good foliage disease 
resistance and are resistant to one or more races of fusarium wilt. Marion is a 
slightly smaller fruited variety, but has excellent disease resistance. 
   Better Boy, Parks Whopper, Terrific, Celebrity, Floramerica, and Mountain 
Pride are all hybrids with good disease resistance, high productivity and 
excellent size. Celebrity is an outstanding home garden variety with excellent 
disease resistance. Fruit are large, deep globe shaped, smooth and crack 
resistant. Parks Whopper tends to perform better than Better Boy along the 
coast  while the reverse is true in the piedmont. Terrific has slightly smaller 
fruit than the other hybrids but holds its' size well through the growing 
season. It may also be more susceptible to  blossom end rot than the others if 
not watered properly. Better Boy and Parks Whopper are indeterminate varieties 
and grow very large. The other varieties are determinate and while they vary in 
plant size, none of them grow as large as Better Boy and Parks Whopper. 
   Small Fry, Sweet 100, and Cherry Grande are the recommended small fruited 
cherry types. Small Fry has a very determinate growth habit and seldom get over 
3 feet tall. Sweet 100 is an indeterminate variety and could potentially grow 
20 feet tall. Cherry Grande is a larger determinate that may reach 6 feet in 
height. Cherry Grande produces fruit that are slightly larger than the other 
two varieties. Sweet 100 is extremely productive and often produces hundreds of 
small cherry tomatoes.  
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOMATO; PLANTING                                
-DOC-
                               TOMATO; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
 
                                          Planting Date *
                                Spring                        Fall
 
        Piedmont            Apr. 15- May 15                July 1-20
        Central             Apr. 1-20                      July 10-20
        Coastal             Mar. 20-Apr. 10                July 20-30
 
        *Transplants
 
   Space tomato plants 18-24 in. apart in rows 48-60 in. wide rows. Set 
transplants 4 in. deep. Remove or crack open peat pots to improve root 
penetration of the soil. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOMATO; FERTILIZATION                              
-DOC-
                             TOMATO; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you.
   Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row.
   If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
   If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  applied 
at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial application 
will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed by most garden 
vegetables. On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be 
required if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at 
the rate of 5 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
   Sidedress tomatoes with 2 lb. of calcium nitrate (15% N) 2 weeks after 
planting and again 4 weeks later. If the plants are carried through the summer 
they should be sidedressed every 4 weeks. The use of calcium nitrate as the 
sidedressing material will insure an adaquate supply of calcium and help 
prevent losses to blossom end rot. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TOMATO; WATER MANAGEMENT                             
-DOC-
                            TOMATO; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. Thoroughly water plants soon after transplanting. 
   Maintaining an even supply of soil moisture will reduce growth cracks and
help prevent losses to blossom end rot. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WATERMELON, VARIETY SELECTION                          
-DOC-
                         WATERMELON, VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Charleston Gray, Crimson Sweet, Jubilee, Dixielee, and Sugarlee are the 
recommended standard varieties of watermelons. Charleston Gray is a long melon 
that averages 22-25 pounds in weight. It has a gray rind color with good 
interior color. For years Charleston Gray has been a favorite for both home and 
commercial use. Jubilee is a large (25-35 pounds) melon with a light green rind 
with darker green stripes. Flesh color and eating quality are good. Crimson 
Sweet is a round fruited melon with darker green stripes over a light green 
base color. Size is similar to slightly smaller than Charleston Gray but 
interior color and flavor are often superior. Dixielee and Sugarlee are both 
round striped melons averaging about 25 pounds in weight. Both have excellent 
interior color. 
   Royal Sweet and Mirage are both new blocky shaped hybrids. Similar in 
external color to Crimson Sweet, both are capable of producing very high 
yields. Interior color and eating quality are excellent. For those that prefer 
the smaller icebox melons, Mickeylee and Minilee are recommended. The round 
melons are gray in color and average 10-12 pounds in size. Eating quality is 
far superior to most icebox types and is very similar to the standard sized 
melons. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WATERMELON; PLANTING                              
-DOC-
                             WATERMELON; PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
                                      
                                         Planting Date 
                               Spring                        Fall
    
        Piedmont           Apr. 20-June 30                 ------
        Central            Apr. 1-30                      June 15-30
        Coastal            Mar. 20-Apr. 20                July 5-20
    
   Plant watermelons 1 inch deep in 5-6 foot rows.  Plants should be spaced 60 
inches apart. At this spacing 1/2 ounce of seed will plant 100 feet of row. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WATERMELON; FERTILIZATION                            
-DOC-
                           WATERMELON; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
   Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
   If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime with out 
a new test. Over liming can result in nutrient defeciencies and poor growth. 
   If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  applied 
at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sg. ft. is suggested. This initial application 
will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed by most garden 
vegetables. On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-10 may be 
required if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be applied at 
the rate of 5 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
   Sidedress watermelons with 2 lb. of calcium nitrate per 100 ft. of row just 
before the plants start to vine. The use of calcium nitrate as the sidedressing 
material will help reduce losses to blossom end rot.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WATERMELON; WATER MANAGEMENT                           
-DOC-
                          WATERMELON; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required total. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Watermelons can withstand short periods of drought stress and still produce 
good yields. Extended drought will result in small melon size and reduced 
yields. Blossom end rot is also more of a problem if moisture levels fluctuate 
badly. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
WATERMELON; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                    
-DOC-
                   WATERMELON; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Watermelons require well drained sites and produce most heavily on medium 
fertility sandy loams. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PUBLICATIONS                                 
-DOC-
                                 PUBLICATIONS
                  Wilton. P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture
 
   For more information on this crop refer to Clemson University Cooperative 
Extension Service Circular 570, HOME VEGETABLE GARDENING.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEAN, POLE; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION                    
-DOC-
                   BEAN, POLE; SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   The garden site should be located in full sun. Sites that receive less than 
one-half day full sun will be less productive and more susceptible to disease 
than those receiving full sun. Avoid low areas subject to flooding and steep 
hillsides that would be susceptible to erosion. Sloping sites are acceptable 
but rows and terraces (if needed) should follow the contour of the slope to 
prevent erosion. 
   If possible heavy clay and very sandy sites should be avoided since they 
present special management problems. The addition of sand, rotted sawdust, 
finely ground bark, compost, perlite or vermiculite to clay soils will improve 
the structure of the soil and make it easier to manage while increasing plant 
growth and yields. The addition of organic matter to sandy soils will improve 
nutrient and water holding capacity. Composted organic matter or well rotted 
sawdust should be applied every year. Well rotted materials can be applied at 
rates up to 2000 pounds per 1000 square feet. Winter cover crops of rye or 
winter peas will add organic matter and reduce weed growth. Plow down any cover 
crop 1 month before planting the garden. 
   Plowing the garden in the fall allows time for old crop residue to decay and 
reduces insect and disease carryover. Soil conditions are often more favorable 
for fall plowing since wet soils are often a problem in the spring. Gardens 
should be plowed to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each year. All clods should be 
broken up and the soil raked smooth to prepare a smooth seed bed. Level garden 
sites should be ridged to prevent drowning during heavy rains. 
   Pole beans prefer fertile well drained soils high in organic matter. 
    
 
                 
         
       
         
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEANS, POLE; VARIETY SELECTION                          
-DOC-
                         BEANS, POLE; VARIETY SELECTION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Blue Lake, Dade and Kentucky Wonder 191 are the recommended varieties of 
pole beans. Blue Lake is an excellent tasting bean with the distinctive blue 
lake flavor. Dade is also a high quality variety well suited to the home 
garden. Kentucky Wonder 191 is a heavy producer often grown commercially for 
shipping. All are suitable for canning or fresh use but do not freeze very 
well. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEANS, POLE;PLANTING                               
-DOC-

                              BEANS, POLE;PLANTING 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Proper planting date and proper spacing are very important if optimum yields 
are to be obtained. The following guidelines have proven successful over the 
years. Local conditions can have a major effect on planting dates. Management 
intensity can also affect spacing. Use these guidelines as starting points and 
adapt them to fit your specific conditions. 
                                   
                                          Planting Date 
                              Spring                          Fall 
 
        Piedmont            Apr. 15-30                      July 15-25 
        Central             Apr.  5-20                      July 20-30 
        Coastal             Mar. 20-30                      Aug.  1-10 
    
 
   Plant pole beans 1 in. deep in 3 foot rows. Space seed 4 inches apart. This 
will require approximately 1/2 of a pound of seed per 100 foot of row.  
      
       
           
         
 
 
 
 
         
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEANS, POLE; FERTILIZATION                           
-DOC-

                          BEANS, POLE; FERTILIZATION 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
    All lime and fertilizer applications should be based on soil test results. 
Annual sampling is recommended. Take a composite sample from several locations 
in the garden site. Take the sample from the top 6 inches of soil and mix well 
so that the sample is representative of entire garden. A pint of this soil 
should be taken to the local county Extension office. The sample will be sent 
to Clemson for analysis and results and recommendations will be returned to 
you. 
    Broadcast lime and fertilizer over the entire garden area. Do not place 
fertilizer directly in the row. The fertilizer will burn the roots of the 
germinating seedlings and transplants and may result in the death of the 
plants. Gardeners who insist on banding fertilizer should be very careful and 
not place it any closer than 3 inches below and 3 inches to the side of the 
row. 
    If a soil sample was taken last year but not for the current season, apply 
fertilizer at the same rate as last year. Do not apply additional lime without 
a new test. Overliming can result in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth. 
    If a soil test is not available, a preplant application of 5-10-10  
applied at the rate of 30 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. is suggested. This initial 
application will normally supply all of the phosphorous and potassium needed 
by most garden vegetables. On sandy soils a further sidedressing of the 5-10-
10 may be required if heavy (over 3 inches) rainfall occurs. This should be 
applied at the rate of 5 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
    Pole beans should be sidedressed once with nitrogen when approximately 6 
inches tall and again 3 weeks later. Apply calcium nitrate or 15-0-14 at the 
rate of 2 lb. per 100 ft. of row at each application. Ammonium nitrate can 
also be used at the rate of 1 lb. per 100 ft. of row. 
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BEANS, POLE; WATER MANAGEMENT                          
-DOC-
                         BEANS, POLE; WATER MANAGEMENT 
                   Wilton P. Cook, Professor of Horticulture 
 
   Early in the season when the plants are small, 1 inch of water per week is 
required for good plant growth. As the plants grow and temperatures increase, 
water requirements also increase. With temperatures above 90 degrees and the 
crop reaching maturity, an inch of water will be required every 5 days. If this 
amount of rainfall does not occur, the garden should be irrigated. Add water 
through irrigation until the total from rainfall and irrigation meets the 
required 1 inch. When irrigating be sure to thoroughly wet the soil. Light 
sprinkling of water every day only wet the soil surface and encourages shallow 
root development which is undesirable. Light sandy soils will require more 
frequent watering since they have less water holding capacity than clays or 
loamy soils. Water the garden early enough in the day for plants to dry 
thoroughly before dark. 
   Adequate water is necessary for stand establishment. The period from full 
bloom to maturity is very critical and adequate water must be available for the 
plant or poor set and low quality will be a problem. Pole beans bear over an 
extended period of time if conditions are favorable. Adequate water is required 
throughout the bearing period. 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
THE RELATIVE SALINITY TOLERANCE OF ELEVEN COMMONLY USED TURFGRASSES      
-DOC-
      THE RELATIVE SALINITY TOLERANCE OF ELEVEN COMMONLY USED TURFGRASSES
                  Landon C. Miller, Extension Horticulturist
 
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                 Electrical*
Relative salinity               conductivity            Turfgrass
    tolerance                     ECe x (.001)
_____________________________________________________________________________
     Good                          8-16**               Bermudagrass
                                                        Zoysiagrass
                                                        Creeping bentgrass
                                                        St. Augustinegrass
     Medium                        4-8                  Tall fesuce
                                                        Perennial ryegrass
     Poor                          < 4                  Meadow fescue
                                                        Red fescue
                                                        Kentucky bluegrass
                                                        Colonial bentgrass
                                                        Centipedegrass
_____________________________________________________________________________
 *Electrical conductivity of the saturation extract in millimhos per 
  centimeter at 25 degrees C (77 degrees F).
**Multiply the conductivity number by 640 to convert to parts per million (PPM). 
(1)  Reference:  Beard, James B.  1973.  Turfgrass 
                 Science and Culture.  P. 347.
                 Prentice-Hall, Inc., Englewood
                 Cliff, N.J.  658 pp.
 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STATE POULTRY ORGANIZATIONS                          
-DOC-
                          STATE POULTRY ORGANIZATIONS
                                 E. L. Nichols

               Carolinas Feed Industry Association
                    Contact - Owen Robertson
                              2116 N. Shoreline Drive
                              Sanford, NC 27330
     
               National Broiler Council
                    Local Contact - Albin Johnson
                              Columbia Farms, Inc.
                              P. O. Box 577
                              Leesville, SC 29070
                              (803) 532-4488

               Northwestern South Carolina Poultry Growers Association
                    Contact - Derrill Ables
                              Route 2
                              Westminster, SC 29693                   
                              (803) 972-9451

               South Carolina Department of Agriculture
                    Contact - D. Leslie Tindal, Commissioner
                              P. O. Box 11280
                              Columbia, SC 29211
                              (803) 758-2426
     
               South Carolina Department of Health and Environmental Control
                    Contact - Mr. Henry E. Gibson, Manager
                              NPDES Administration and 
                              Agricultural Wastewater
                              2600 Bull Street
                              Columbia, SC 29201
                              (803) 758-5483

               South Carolina Egg Board
                    Contact - Ms. Betsy Sheehan 
                              P. O. Box 11280
                              Columbia, SC 29211
                              (803) 734-2477

               South Carolina Poultry Health Association
                    Contact - Dr. Peter Skewes
                              Clemson Livestock and Poultry Laboratory
                              P. O. Box 218
                              Elgin, SC 29045
                              (803) 788-2260

               South Carolina Poultry Improvement Association
                    Contact - Mr. John Welter
                              Poultry Science Department
                              131 P and AS Building
                              Clemson University
                              Clemson, SC 29634-0379
                              (803) 656-4029

               South Carolina Livestock and Poultry Health
                    Contact - Dr. Carl Boyd
                              Clemson Livestock and Poultry Laboratory
                              P. O. Box 218
                              Elgin, SC 29045
                              (803) 788-2260     

               South Carolina Turkey Federation
                    Contact - Charlie Risher
                              930 Hawthorne Lane Extension
                              Rockhill, SC 29730
                              (803) 327-6037
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEAN FROGEYE LEAF SPOT                          
-DOC-
                          SOYBEAN FROGEYE LEAF SPOT
                    C. E. Drye, Extension Plant Pathologist
                    F. H. Smith, Extension Plant Pathologist

CAUSE:  The fungus, Cercospora sojina.

IMPORTANCE AND DISTRIBUTION:  With good resistance in many soybean varieties,
this disease is currently of minor importance in South Carolina, but it poses
a threat over the entire state.  Occurs worldwide.

HOST RANGE:  Primarily a disease of soybeans.  There are several races of the
fungus.

SYMPTOMS:  Primarily a disease of leaves, but also produces dark lesions, less
conspicuous on stems and pods.  On leaves, numerous irregular to circular gray
spots with dark borders develop.  Heavily damaged leaves may wither and fall.

SOURCE:  Infected seed and infected soybean debris.  The fungus is not free
living in the soil and is not windborne except for short distances.
MEANS OF SPREAD:  Initial infections come from infected seed or from old
soybean residue when soybeans are planted back into it.  Seed germination
can be reduced slightly.  The fungus is favored by warm, wet weather and 
usually is not conspicuous until plants are in pod set stage.  Spores are
airborne short distances and are also spread by splashing or windblown rain.
Late season infections cause less harm.

NONCHEMICAL CONTROL:  

     1.  Use varieties with listed resistance to the disease.
     2.  Crop rotation of 1 to 2 years is of value where the disease presents
         a problem.
     3.  Use high quality, high germination seed.


CHEMICAL CONTROL:  

     1.  Treat seed with a recommended fungicide.
     2.  Use of foliar fungicides for control of this disease not considered
         practical but may be of value for seed production. See Clemson
         University Agricultural Chemicals Handbook for recommendations.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOYBEAN SOUTHERN STEM BLIGHT                        
-DOC-
                        SOYBEAN SOUTHERN STEM BLIGHT
                    C. E. Drye, Extension Plant Pathologist
                    F. H. Smith, Extension Plant Pathologist

CAUSE:  The fungus, Sclerotium rolfsii.

IMPORTANCE AND DISTRIBUTION:  Very common and causes much concern, but seldom
causes economic losses to soybeans in South Carolina.  The fungus occurs
primarily in warmer climates of the world where it is widespread.

HOST RANGE:  The fungus has a very wide host range of mostly broadleaf-type
plants.  It is usually not a problem on grain and grass-type plants, but it
can survive on dead organic debris of these plants.

SYMPTOMS:  First symptoms are spots or hills of wilted and dying soybean plants
scattered about in a field of soybeans.  These usually occur in June, July or
August, since hot weather favors the fungus.  Roots and the lower stems are
killed rapidly.  Usually a copious white mold containing small, rounded 
fruiting bodies (sclerotia) develops on the stem at the soil surface.  After 
several weeks, these fungus symptoms become less obvious.
SOURCE:  The fungus can survive in the soil in the form of small, round
sclerotial fungus bodies and on undecayed crop debris of any kind.  It is
common in many cultivated soils, particularly sandier soils low in nitrogen.
It does not produce true spores and is not seed-borne.

NONCHEMICAL CONTROL:  

     1.  Rotations with grain or grass-type crops aid in reducing losses.
     2.  Plow under crop residues and use trash-covering attachments to bury
         the residues several inches deep in fields where the disease is a
         persistent problem.
     3.  Do not throw soil to plant, covering surface litter, when cultivating.

CHEMICAL CONTROL:  None for soybeans.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
CALENDAR OF POULTRY EVENTS                          
-DOC-
                          CALENDAR OF POULTRY EVENTS
                                E. L. Nichols

Nov 9, 1987  - SC Poultry Health Assn, Bates Inn, Batesburg, SC 6:30 PM

Nov 12, 1987 - Turkey Cooking Demonstration Charleston, SC

Nov 17-20, 1987 - National 4-H Judging Contest, Louisville, KY

Nov 17, 1987 - Sumter County Poultry Night

Nov 18, 1987 - Turkey Cooking Demonstration, Colleton County, SC

Nov 19, 1987 - Turkey Cooking Demonstration, Florence,SC

Nov 24, 1987 - National Turkey Day

Dec 2, 1987  - Carolinas Feed Industry Assn Nutrition Conference, Charlotte, 
     NC, Adam's Mark Hotel
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
TURKEY PATHOLOGY                                                                
-DOC-
                               TURKEY PATHOLOGY                                  
                                 W. T. Derieux

The Clemson University Diagnostic Laboratory is located at Elgin, SC.  
Phone - 803-788-2260.  
Mailing address - P.O. Box 218 Elgin, SC 29045.
The Laboratory receives samples from 8 am - 8 pm Monday - Friday and 8 am - 4 
pm on Saturday and Sunday.  

Contacts are:

Dr. William T. Derieux, Poultry Pathologist (Diagnostician)
Dr. Tommy E. Eleazer, Poultry Field Veterinarian

    Services - The Laboratory is equipped to isolate and/or identify most 
poultry pathogens.  It can quantify serum antibodies for diagnostic, 
surveillance, or vaccination response purposes.  Post mortem examination is 
used for diagnosis of infectious diseases and abnormalities due to improper 
nutrition.  Feed samples are submitted to other laboratories for assay or 
toxicology studies.
    Specimens - Fresh dead birds (4 to 6 or more chicks) and morbid birds 
showing typical signs desirable for disease diagnosis.  For production
problems, 4 to 6 abnormal and normal birds are best.  Blood should be 
submitted in tubes or vials .

Turkey Diseases - (0-4 weeks of age)
    Arizona paracolon infection - Silver eyes (opaque cornea) and nervous
symptoms.	
    Encephalomalacia (crazy chick) - Vitamin E deficiency.  Usually abnormal 
head position.
    Epidemic Tremor (infectious encephalomyelitis) - Poults seem to tremble or 
"vibrate"  Indicates infection of parent flock.        
    Gasping - (1) Mold growth in respiratory tissues (brooder pneumonia), 
(2) excessuve fumigation, (3) improper spray vaccination. 
    Omphalitis and infected yolks - usually reflects poor egg or hatchery 
sanitation.
    Rickets - Rubbery bones and beaks; unwilling to stand.  Vitamin D 
deficiency.
    Starveouts - birds that fail to eat because of weakness, unavailability of 
feed and water, or improper temperatures.
 
Turkey Diseases (4-20 weeks of age)
    Alcaligenes rhinotracheitis (ART) - Wet eyes and respiratory symptoms
caused by overgrowth of Bordetella avium in trachea.  Leads to other 
respiratory infections.
    Blackhead - Protozoal infection of liver and ceca causing depression, 
sulfa colored droppings, and scars on liver.  Usual source of infection for 
turkeys is backyard chicken flocks.
    Botulism - Paralysis of legs, progressing to neck.  Sleepy eyes, loose 
feathers.  Toxin may be produced inside the intestine of broilers.  Turkeys 
and older chickens consume the toxin in maggots or decaying organic material.  
Flush birds (epsom salts or molasses) and remove toxin source.  
    Coccidiosis - Ruffled feathers, chilled appearance and blood sometimes 
present in droppings.
    E. coli - Respiratory symptoms with mortality.  White exudate around 
heart, and over liver.
    Erysipelas - Seen most frequently on farms that also have pigs.  Turkeys
show depression and red heads.  Muscle tissues and organs are red. 
    Fowl cholera - Rapid increase in mortality, breeder hens dead on nest.  
Turkeys show solid lungs and friable livers.
    Hemmorrhagic enteritis - Mortality increases for 7 days, blood in 
droppings, blood in duodenal loop of intestines and such enlarges spleen.
There is no effective treatment, but losses usually mild.  
    Leg weakness - Abnormal growth plates in long bones of 10% of fast growing 
birds.  Local infection and pain cuases symptoms.
    Malabsorption (pale bird, helicopter wing, brittle bone) - Indigestion, 
often caused by virus, with undigested feed passed, poor feed consumption, and 
nutritional deficiencies.  Give vitamins in water and flush with epsom salts 
(1# to 20 gal of water for 1/2 day) or molasses (1 quart to 20 gal water) for 
several days.  Get birds back on feed. 
    Mycoplasmosis - Respiratory disease made apparent by respiratory virus 
vaccination or exposure.  Respiratory symptoms mild to severe including swollen 
sinuses.  Heavy condemnations due to airsacculitis.  
    Newcastle Disease - Viral respiratory disease, nervous symptoms occur 
occasionally.  Controlled by vaccination. 
    Pox - Sores on comb or around eyes.  Wet form causes lesions in mouth and 
plugs in trachea.  Prevented by vaccination.
    Worms - Can build up rapidly on litter, or on wire.  Birds are unthrifty 
and worms are observed in the intestines.














 
                                                                              

     
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
REGIONAL POULTRY ORGANIZATIONS                        
-DOC-
                        REGIONAL POULTRY ORGANIZATIONS
                                 E. L. Nichols

               American Association of Avian Pathologists
                    CONTACT - Dr. Robert J. Eckroade
                              U. of PA, New Bottom Center
                              Kennett Square, PA 19348-1692 

               American Feed Industry Association
                    Contact - Oakley Ray
                              1701 N. Fort Myer Drive
                              Arlington, VA 22209
                              (703)524-0810
 
               American Institute of Nutrition
                    Contact - Mrs. Maria Robinson
                              9650 Rockville Pike
                              Bethsada, MD 20814
                              (301) 530-7050

               Carolinas Feed Industry Association
                    Contact - Owen Robertson
                              2116 N. Shoreline Drive
                              Sanford, NC 27330

               Egg Nutrition Center
                    Contact - 2501 M St. NW. #410
                              Washington, DC 20037
                              (202) 833-8850
          
               Food Research Institute
                    Contact - Dr. Michael Doyle
                              University of Wisconsin - Madison
                              Madison, WI 53706 

               Food Safety Inspection Service
                              (202) 447-4929

               Meat and Poultry Inspection - Technical Assistance
                    Contact - Dr. Cook
                              (202) 447-3219

               National Broiler Council
                    Contact - George B. Watts, President
                              The Madison Building
                              Suite 614
                              1155-15th St. NW
                              Washington, DC 20005
                              (202) 296-2622

               National Poultry Improvement Plan
                    Contact - Dr. Irvin L. Peterson
                              USDA, APHIS, VS
                              Room 828
                              Federal Building
                              Hyattsville, MD 20782
                              (301) 436-5140

               North American Game Bird Association
                    Contact - Mr. Walter Walker
                              P. O. Box 2805
                              Cayce-West Columbia, SC 29171
                              (803) 796-8163

               Poultry Microbiology
                    Contact - Dr. James Bailey
                              Dr. Roy Blankenship
                              Dr. Nelson Cox
                              USDA-ARS
                              R. B. Russell Agricultural Center
                              P. O. Box 5677
                              Athens, GA 30613
                              (404) 546-3493
                              
               Poultry Products Development
                    Contact - Dr. Catharina Ang 
                              Dr. Brenda Lyon                     
                              Dr. Claude E. Lyon 
                              USDA-ARS
                              R. B. Russell Agricultural Center
                              P. O. Box 5677
                              Athens, GA 30613
                              (404) 546-3493
     
               Poultry Science Association
                    Contact - Mr. Carl Johnson
                              309 West Clark Street
                              Champaign, Ill 61820
                              (217) 356-3182

               Southeastern Game Breeder and Hunting Preserve Association
                    Contact - Dr. Tommy Eleazer
                              Clemson Poultry and Livestock Laboratory
                              P. O. Box 218
                              Elgin, SC 29045
                              (803) 788-2260

               Southeastern Poultry and Egg Association
                    Contact - Mr. Harold Ford
                              Southeastern Poultry and Egg Association
                              1456 Church Street
                              Decatur, Georgia 30030
                              (404) 377-6465

               Southern Poultry Science Society
                    Contact - Dr. Milton Y. Dendy
                              4 Towers Building
                              University of Georgia
                              Athens, Gerogia 30602
                              (404) 542-1325  

               The National Turkey Federation
                    Contact - G. L. Walts, Executive Vice President
                              11319 Sunset Hills Rd.
                              Reston, Virginia 22090
                              (703) 435-7206

               The American Egg Board
                    Contact - Mr. Connor H. Kennett, Jr.
                              Dir Poultry Division
                              Agricultural Marketing Service
                              USDA
                              3132 South Agricultural Building
                              Washington, DC 20250
                              (202) 447-4476

               USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Services-Veterinary 
                              Services 
                    Contact - Dr. Carlos H. Miranda
                              Area Veterinarian in Charge
                              1835 Assembly Street - Room 561
                              Columbia, SC 29201
                              (803) 765-5612

               USDA Poultry Hotline
                              Meat and Poultry Hotline
                              USDA-Food Safey & Inspection Service
                              Rm 1163 South Agricultural Building
                              Washington, DC 20250
                              1-800-535-4555
                              (M-F, 10 am - 4 pm EST)  
               
               World Poultry Science Association                         
                    Contact - Dr. Irvin L. Peterson
                              USDA, APHIS, VS
                              Room 828
                              Federal Building
                              Hyattsville, MD 20782
                              (301) 436-5140






-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
LIME ROASTED CHICKEN                             
-DOC-
                             LIME ROASTED CHICKEN
                                 E. L. Nichols

1   whole broiler-fryer chicken    2   carrots, cooked, cut in lengthwise 
1/4 cup fresh lime juice               strips
1/4 cup cooking oil                3   boiled potatoes, peeled, cut in wedges
1/2 teaspoon salt                  2   leeks, green and white parts included, 
1/8 teaspoon pepper                    cut lengthwise
1   tablespoon chopped parsley     1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, halved
1   tablespoon capers
     
     In bowl, mix together lime juice, cooking oil, salt, pepper, parsley and 
capers.  Place chicken in roasting pan; pour lime juice mixture over chicken 
and inside cavity.  Allow to marinate about 1 hour, turning often.  Place in 
400 0F. oven for 20 minutes; turn and baste; bake 20 minutes more.  Turn and 
baste again; then add carrots, potatoes, leeks and mushrooms.  Bake 20 minutes 
more or until fork can be inserted in chicked with ease.  Garnish with lime 
slices.  Carve chicken and serve with vegetables, spooning juices over all.  
Makes 4 servings.   - The Chicken Cookbook:36th National Chicken Cooking 
Contest Recipes                                                                                
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
North Carolina Grilled Chicken                        
-DOC-
                        North Carolina Grilled Chicken
                                 E. L. Nichols

2   whole broiler-fryer chickens,     1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
    quartered                         1     tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
4   tablespoons margarine             1/4   teaspoon bottled red pepper sauce
1/3 cup vinegar                       1     cup catsup
1/4 cup sugar

     In small saucepan, place margarine, vinegar, catsup, sugar, lemon juice, 
Worcestershire sauce and red pepper sauce.  Over medium temperature, bring to 
boil.  Reduce temperature to low and simmer 10 minutes.  Place chicken on 
prepared grill, skin side down.  Grill about 10 minutes, or until browned.  
Turn chicken and grill about 10 minutes more.  Brush chicken liberally with 
sauce and continue to grill, turning and adding more sauce, about 20 minutes 
longer or until fork can be inserted with ease.  Makes 8 servings.
   - The Chicken Cookbook:36th National Chicken Cooking Contest Recipes
 


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FRIED CHICKEN                                 
-DOC-
                                 FRIED CHICKEN
                                 E. L. Nichols

1   broiler-fryer chicken cut in parts     1   teaspoon salt
1/2 cyo flour                              1/4 teaspoon pepper
                                           1/2 cup cooking oil

     In paper or plastic bag, mix together flour, salt and pepper.  Add 
chicken, a few pieces at a time, and shake to coat thoroughly.  In large 
frypan, place oil and heat to high temperature.  Add chicken, skin side down; 
cook about 10 minutes, turning to brown on all sides.  Reduce heat to medium 
low, cover and cook about 20 minutes or until fork can be inserted in chicken 
with ease.  Makes 4 servings.
  - The Chicken Cookbook:36th National Chicken Cooking Contest Recipes
  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
MICROWAVED CHICKEN LEMON FILET                                                
-DOC-
                        MICROWAVED CHICKEN LEMON FILET                        
                                 E. L. Nichols

4   broiler-fryer chicken breast        2    tablespoons chopped onion
    halves, skinned and boned           1/4  teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1   teaspoon light sesame oil           1/8  teaspoon salt
1   tablespoon parsley flakes           1/2  teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon instant minced garlic      1    teaspoon honey
1/8 teaspoon fennel seed, freshly       1/16 teaspoon paprike lemon wedges
    ground                                   lemon wedges
1   teaspoon salt-free lemon                 parsley sprigs
    seasoning   

     In large shallow microwave dish lined with double-folded plastic wrap, 
place chicken.  Drizzle sesame oil over chicken; sprinkle evenly with parsley 
flakes, minced garlic, fennel seed, salt-free seasoning, onion and pepper.  
Cover loosely with double-folded plastic wrap and microwave on HIGH for 5 
minutes.  Allow to stand for 4 minutes; return to oven for additional cooking 
if fork cannot be inserted in chicken with ease when testing for doneness.  
Place chicken on large platter; pour juice from cooking over all and sprinkle 
with salt.  Mix together lemon juice and honey; drizzle over chicken.  Sprinkle 
with paprika and garnish wih lemon wedges and parsley.  Makes 4 servings.
   - The Chicken Cookbook : 36th National Chicken Cooking Contest Recipes  
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
FIESTA CHICKEN WITH CHILI SAUCE                        
-DOC-
                        FIESTA CHICKEN WITH CHILI SAUCE
                                 E. L. Nichols

4 broiler-fryer chicken thighs       1/4 cup yellow corn meal
4 broiler-fryer chicken drumsticks   1   envelope (1 1/4 oz) chili seasoning 
2 tablespoons butter                     mix, divided
1 medium green pepper, chopped       1/2 teaspoon salt 
1 medium onion, chopped              1/2 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons chopped green chilies  1/4 cup corn oil
1 garlic clove, minced               1   cup chicken broth
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese        1/4 cup chopped pimiento-stuffed olives

     In small frypan, place butter and melt over medium heat.  Add green 
pepper, onion, chilies and garlic; saute about 3 minutes or until soft.  Set 
aside.  In shallow bowl, mix together cornmeal, 1/2 of the chili seasoning 
mix, salt and pepper; add chicken, one piece at a time, dredging to coat.  In 
deep frypan, heat oil to medium temperature.  Add chicken, skin side down, and 
cook about 6 minutes or until brown; turn and cook 5 minutes more.  Drain oil 
and discard.  In small bowl, mix together remaining chili seasoning mix, 
chicken broth and green pepper mixture.  Pour over chicken, cover and simmer 
about 30 minutes or until fork can be inserted in chicken with ease.  Place 
chicken on warm platter, pour 1 cup of sauce from pan over chicken and 
sprinkle  with cheese and olives.  Serve remaining sauce in sauceboat.  Makes
4 servings. - The Chicken Cookbook:36th National Chicken Cooking Contest 
Recipes 
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
STATE POULTRY ORGANIZATIONS                          
-DOC-
                          STATE POULTRY ORGANIZATIONS
                                 E. L. Nichols

               Carolinas Feed Industry Association
                    Contact - Owen Robertson
                              2116 N. Shoreline Drive
                              Sanford, NC 27330
     
               National Broiler Council
                    Local Contact - Albin Johnson
                              Columbia Farms, Inc.
                              P. O. Box 577
                              Leesville, SC 29070
                              (803) 532-4488

               Northwestern South Carolina Poultry Growers Association
                    Contact - Derrill Ables
                              Route 2
                              Westminster, SC 29693                   
                              (803) 972-9451

               South Carolina Department of Agriculture
                    Contact - D. Leslie Tindal, Commissioner
                              P. O. Box 11280
                              Columbia, SC 29211
                              (803) 758-2426
     
               South Carolina Department of Health and Environmental Control
                    Contact - Mr. Henry E. Gibson, Manager
                              NPDES Administration and 
                              Agricultural Wastewater
                              2600 Bull Street
                              Columbia, SC 29201
                              (803) 758-5483

               South Carolina Egg Board
                    Contact - Ms. Betsy Sheehan 
                              P. O. Box 11280
                              Columbia, SC 29211
                              (803) 734-2477

               South Carolina Poultry Health Association
                    Contact - Dr. Peter Skewes
                              Clemson Livestock and Poultry Laboratory
                              P. O. Box 218
                              Elgin, SC 29045
                              (803) 788-2260

               South Carolina Poultry Improvement Association
                    Contact - Mr. John Welter
                              Poultry Science Department
                              131 P and AS Building
                              Clemson University
                              Clemson, SC 29634-0379
                              (803) 656-4029

               South Carolina Livestock and Poultry Health
                    Contact - Dr. Carl Boyd
                              Clemson Livestock and Poultry Laboratory
                              P. O. Box 218
                              Elgin, SC 29045
                              (803) 788-2260     

               South Carolina Turkey Federation
                    Contact - Charlie Risher
                              930 Hawthorne Lane Extension
                              Rockhill, SC 29730
                              (803) 327-6037
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
BROILER PROJECTIONS                              
-DOC-
                              BROILER PROJECTIONS
                                 J. F. Welter

     The commercial broiler business in South Carolina is a highly integrated 
industry where all segments of the production chain are owned and operated by 
one company, partnership or individual.  Integrated units provide the birds, 
feed, management information and market, paying the on farm producer a contract 
price for growing facilities, energy and labor contributions.

     Estimated economic projections for contract broiler production:

                     PRODUCER INPUTS - ANNUAL PROJECTIONS
Flock size            20,000                  Contract pay      $16,200         
Flocks/year                6                  Utility costs       2,400
House & equip        $64,000                  Taxes and insurance   400
Interest rate            10%                  Clean out and litter  600
Contract pay/1000 head   135                  Debt service        10,080
Net for labor and mgt  2,720
                     Multiple house units are recommended.        
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
POULTRY INDUSTRY IN SOUTH CAROLINA                     
-DOC-
                     POULTRY INDUSTRY IN SOUTH CAROLINA
                                 J. F. Welter

     The commercial poultry industry in South Carolina is a highly integrated 
network of contract production.  In a given poultry enterprise nearly all 
segments of the production chain are owned by one company, partnership, or 
individual called an integrator.  Integrators usually supply the birds, feed, 
mmanagement supervision, and markets for production.  On farm producers supply 
buildings, equipment, labor, and energy in return for a predetermined contract 
payment.  Production is usually concentrated within a 35 mile radius of the 
integrator's feed mill, processing plant, or headquarters.                                                                                 

     Once the decision is made to go with contract poultry production there are 
some logical steps to be taken:
1.  Contact local contracting companies in the area.  Find out if they are 
    interested in contracting with new producers.
2.  Get copies of company specifications for buildings, equipment, bird 
    placement, contracts and average settlements with producers.
3.  Visit with producers currently on contract.  Ask questions.
4.  Assess land availability for buildings and manure disposal.  Contact DHEC 
    for regulations and neighbors for public sentiment.
5.  Plan for waste use as fertilizer on pasture or crop land.
6.  Contact financial agencies for detailed information related to financing.
7.  Contact your local county extension agent for information about the 
    feasibility of the enterprise.  He may bring in a specialist to help 
    evaluate the situation.
8.  Refer to CUFAN enterprise projections under broilers, eggs and turkeys.

TYPE PRODUCTION UNIT       COMPANY                    COUNTY  
Egg                        G & B Enterprise           Pickens         
Egg                        Gold Kist                  Richland  
Egg                        Ise America                Newberry
Egg                        The Egg and I              Darlington
Broiler                    Amick Poultry Farms        Saluda
Broiler                    Campbell Soup              Sumter 
                           (Herider Farms)
Broiler                    Columbia Farms             Lexington
Broiler                    Gentry Poultry             Saluda
Broiler                    Whitworth Feed Mill        Oconee
                                                      (Office-Lavonia, GA)
Turkeys                    Campbell Soup              Sumter
                           (Herider Farms)       
Turkeys                    Cuddy Farms                Chesterfield
                                                      (Office-Marshville, NC)
Turkeys                    Gimco Farms                Chesterfield
                                                      (Office-Marshville, NC)
Turkeys                    Louis Rich                 Newberry         
Turkeys                    Stout Enterprises          York, Cherokee, Dillon,
                                                      and Dillon 





add 329020
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOUTH CAROLINA RABBIT PROCESSING PLANTS                    
-DOC-
                    SOUTH CAROLINA RABBIT PROCESSING PLANTS
                                 P. A. Skewes

                         Blue Chip Farms, Inc.
                         Route 3
                         Fountain Inn, SC 29644
                         (803) 862-5026

                         Imperial Rabbit Processing, Inc.
                         P. O. Box 155
                         Pageland, SC 29728
                         (803) 672-6190

                         Speciality Meats
                         Route 2  Box 153
                         Warrenville, SC 29851
                         (803) 663-9777


-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
Distribution of Poultry in South Carolina in 1985               
-DOC-
               Distribution of Poultry in South Carolina in 1985
                                 E. L. Nichols

       County                 Eggs       Broilers       Eggs + Broilers
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------
        1. Lexington      $4,532,000   $20,681,000       $25,213,000  
        2. Newberry       19,751,000       337,000        20,088,000 *
        3. Sumter             --        10,940,000        10,940,000 *
        4. Saluda          2,210,000     7,719,000         9,929,000 *
        5. Aiken              --         9,865,000         9,865,000
        6. Darlington      4,467,000       892,000         5,359,000
        7. Oconee          3,057,000     2,284,000         5,341,000
        8. Clarendon       2,082,000     2,870,000         4,952,000 * 
        9. Lee                --         4,893,000         4,893,000
       10. Greenwood       4,066,000         --            4,066,000
       11. Laurens         3,206,000         --            3,206,000
       12. Florence          530,000     2,199,000         2,729,000
       13. Abbeville       2,108,000         --            2,108,000
       14. Richland        1,736,000         --            1,736,000
       15. Edgefield       1,201,000       331,000         1,532,000
       16. Anderson        1,300,000         --            1,300,000
       17. Dorchester        385,000       573,000           958,000
       18. Pickens           915,000         --              915,000  
       19. Williamsburg                    892,000           892,000
       20. Chesterfield      530,000         --              530,000 *
       21. Chester           522,000         --              522,000 
       22. Kershaw                         510,000           510,000 *      
       23. Orangeburg         94,000       391,000           485,000
       24. Beaufort          475,000         --              475,000
       25. McCormick         445,000         --              445,000
       26. Bamberg           440,000         --              440,000
       27. Cherokee          201,000         --              201,000 *
       28. Greenville        192,000         --              192,000
       29. York              184,000         --              184,000 *
       30. Spartan           154,000         --              154,000
           Other Counties 12,463,000                      12,463,000
       *   Turkeys (Primarily Cherokee, Chesterfield,     41,279,000
             Cherokee, Lancaster, Lee, Newberry, Saluda, 
             Sumter, and York Counties)   

       Quail, Squab, and other poultry                     11,634,000
     -----------------------------------------------------------------
        Total SC Poultry   67,246,000     71,377.000      185,536,000     

        Source:South Carolina Agricultural Statistics Service - Cash Receipts
        From Farm Marketing, AE 443, OCT, 1986.
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
SOUTH CAROLINA RABBIT ASSOCIATIONS                      
-DOC-
                      SOUTH CAROLINA RABBIT ASSOCIATIONS
                                 P. A. Skewes

            Horry-Georgetown Rabbit Growers Cooperative Association
	    Kenneth Womer, President
            Box 121A
	    Conway, SC 29526
	    (803) 365-1312

	    South Carolina Commercial Rabbit Breeders Association
	    Walter Heckle, President
	    Route 4, Box 430
	    St. Matthews, SC 29135
	    (803) 874-1360

	    South Carolina Rabbit Growers Association
	    John Ragsdale
            309 Longsview Street
	    Lexington, SC 29072
	    (803) 755-9370

	    Upper Carolina Commercial Rabbit Breeders Association
	    Larry Owens, President
	    Route 1, Cox Mill Road
	    Taylors, SC 29687

		
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
PATHOLOGY                                   
-DOC-
                                   PATHOLOGY
                                 W. T. Derieux

The Clemson University Diagnostic Laboratory is located at Elgin, SC.  
Phone - 803-788-2260.  
Mailing address - P.O. Box 218 Elgin, SC 29045.
The Laboratory receives samples from 8 am - 8 pm Monday - Friday and 8 am - 4 
pm on Saturday and Sunday.  

Contacts are:

Dr. William T. Derieux, Poultry Pathologist (Diagnostician)
Dr. Tommy E. Eleazer, Poultry Field Veterinarian

    Services - The Laboratory is equipped to isolate and/or identify most 
poultry pathogens.  It can quantify serum antibodies for diagnostic, 
surveillance, or vaccination response purposes.  Post mortem examination is 
used for diagnosis of infectious diseases and abnormalities due to improper 
nutrition.  Feed samples are submitted to other laboratories for assay or 
toxicology studies.
    Specimens - Fresh dead birds (4 to 6 or more chicks) and morbid birds 
showing typical signs desirable for disease diagnosis.  For production
problems, 4 to 6 abnormal and normal birds are best.  Blood should be 
submitted in tubes or vials .

Broiler Diseases - (0-4 weeks of age)
    Encephalomalacia (crazy chick) - Vitamin E deficiency.  Usually abnormal 
head position.
    Epidemic Tremor (infectious encephalomyelitis) - chicks seem to tremble or 
"vibrate"  Indicates infection of parent flock.        
    Gasping - (1) Mold growth in respiratory tissues (brooder pneumonia), 
(2) excessuve fumigation, (3) improper spray vaccination. 
    Omphalitis and infected yolks - usually reflects poor egg or hatchery 
sanitation.
    Rickets - Rubbery bones and beaks; unwilling to stand.  Vitamin D 
deficiency.
    Starveouts - birds that fail to eat because of weakness, unavailability of 
feed and water, or improper temperatures.
 
Broiler Diseases (4-8 weeks of age)
    Botulism - Paralysis of legs, progressing to neck.  Sleepy eyes, loose 
feathers.  Toxin may be produced inside the intestine of broilers.  Turkeys and 
older chickens consume the toxin in maggots or decaying organic material.  
Flush birds (epsom salts or molasses) and remove toxin source.  
    Coccidiosis - Ruffled feathers, chilled appearance and blood sometimes 
present in droppings.
    E. coli - Respiratory symptoms with mortality.  White exudate around heart, 
and over liver.
    Fowl cholera - Rapid increase in mortality, breeder hens dead on nest.  
Broiler breeders show swollen waddles and cooked appearance of developing ova.
    Gangrenous Dermatitis - gas under skin, green legs, Frequently responds to 
selenium.
    Gumboro (bursal disease) - A viral disease of one of the major organs of 
disease resistance (immunity).  Inapparent form occurs in very young chicks, 
permanently damaging the immune system, leaving the birds highly susceptible to 
diseases later.  The clinical form occurs later with dehydration and swollen 
cloacal bursa.  Immune system may recover from clinical form.
    Infectious Bronchitis - Depressed with respiratory "rattle".  Controlled by 
vaccination. 
    Laryngotrachitis - Viral disease of trachea, severe respiratory distress, 
birds may sling blood from mouth.  Flock should be quarantined, and vaccination 
requires permission of the SC State Veterinarian.
    Leg weakness - Abnormal growth plates in long bones of 10% of fast growing 
birds.  Local infection and pain cuases symptoms.
    Malabsorption (pale bird, helicopter wing, brittle bone) - Indigestion, 
often caused by virus, with undigested feed passed, poor feed consumption, and 
nutritional deficiencies.  Give vitamins in water and flush with epsom salts 
(1# to 20 gal of water for 1/2 day) or molasses (1 quart to 20 gal water) for 
several days.  Get birds back on feed. 
    Marek's Disease - Death due to tumors or high leucosis condemnation.  
Prevented by day old vaccination.
    Mycoplasmosis - Respiratory disease made apparent by respiratory virus 
vaccination or exposure.  Respiratory symptoms mild to severe including swollen 
sinuses.  Heavy condemnations due to airsacculitis.  
    Necrotic Enteritis (quail disease) - "Terry cloth" intestinal lining falls 
away from intestinal wall.
    Newcastle Disease - Viral respiratory disease, nervous symptoms occur 
occasionally.  Controlled by vaccination. 
    Pox - Sores on comb or around eyes.  Wet form causes lesions in mouth and 
plugs in trachea.  Prevented by vaccination.
    Worms - Can build up rapidly on litter, or on wire.  Birds are unthrifty 
and worms are observed in the intestines.














 
                                                                              

     
-END-
-State-
South Carolina, SC
-Region-
Southern, S
-Title-
1987-88 CALENDAR OF SPECIAL ACTIVITIES                    
-DOC-
                    1987-88 CALENDAR OF SPECIAL ACTIVITIES
                          DEPARTMENT OF HORTICULTURE
 
MAY 1987
 
   21-22                MEETING OF PARTICIPANTS IN THE TRI-STATE PROJECT,
                        "AGRICULTURAL ADJUSTMENT IN THE SOUTHEAST THROUGH
                        ALTERNATIVE CROPPING SYSTEMS" - Charleston, SC.
                        (Contact:  Prof. Tom Garrett, Hort. Dept., 656-3403)
 
      26                VEGETABLE FIELD DAY - Coastal REC, Charleston, SC;
                        begins at 10:00 am.
                        (Contact:  Dr. Wilton Cook, Coastal REC, 766-3252)
 
JUNE 1987
 
    8-10                BASIC GREENHOUSE AND NURSERY MANAGEMENT WORKSHOP
                        - Sandhill REC, Pontiac, SC; co-sponsored by the
                        SC Greenhouse Growers Association and the Clemson
                        University Cooperative Extension Service.
                        (Contact:  Dr. John Kelly, Hort. Dept., 656-2565)
JUNE 1987 (cont'd.)
 
      16                VEGETABLE FIELD DAY - Sandhill REC, Pontiac, SC;
                        begins at 1:30 pm.
                        (Contact:  Dr. Wilton Cook, Coastal REC, 766-3252)
 
      23                VEGETABLE FIELD DAY - Pee Dee REC, Florence, SC;
                        begins at 1:30 pm.
                        (Contact:  Dr. Wilton Cook, Coastal REC, 766-3252)
 
 
JULY 1987
 
       9                VEGETABLE FIELD DAY - Edisto REC, Blackville, SC.
                        begins at 10:00 am.
                        (Contact:  Dr. Wilton Cook, Coastal REC, 766-3252)
 
   10-19                1987 SOUTH CAROLINA PEACH FESTIVAL, Gaffney, SC;
                        open to the public.
                        (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
 
JULY 1987 (cont'd.)
   16-19                1987 GEORGIA/SOUTH CAROLINA COMMERCIAL FLOWER GROWERS
                        SHORT COURSE AND TRADE SHOW - the Hyatt Regency,
                        Greenville, SC; co-sponsored by the GA Commercial
                        Flower Growers Association, Inc., the SC Commercial
                        Greenhouse Growers Association, and the University
                        of GA and Clemson University Cooperative Extension
                        Services.
                        (Contact:  Dr. John Kelly, Hort. Dept., 656-2565)
 
      25 (9 am-4 pm)    FLOWER DAY 1987 - Clemson University Botanical 
                        Garden, Campus; co-sponsored by the Department of 
                        Horticulture and the Garden Club of South Carolina;
                        open to the public.
                        (Contact:  Dr. David Bradshaw, Hort. Dept., 656-3403)
 
OCTOBER 1987
 
  (Date TBA)            THE STONE FRUIT DECLINE WORKSHOP, Ramada Inn, Clemson,
                        SC.
                        (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
OCTOBER 1987 (cont'd.)
 
  (Date TBA)            THE SOUTHEASTERN PROFESSIONAL PEACH WORKERS 
                        CONFERENCE, Ramada Inn, Clemson, SC.
                        (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
 
 
 
NOVEMBER 1987
 
    3-4                THE FOURTH ANNUAL SOUTH CAROLINA HORTICULTURE SOCIETY
                       CONVENTION - the Sheraton-NW, Columbia, SC.
                       (Contact:  Dr. Ansel King, Hort. Dept., 656-2789)
 
    6-12               THE 84TH ANNUAL MEETING OF THE AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR 
                       HORTICULTURAL SCIENCE (ASHS) JOINTLY WITH THE
                       INTER-AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TROPICAL HORTICULTURE
                       (formerly the ASHS Tropical Region) - Hyatt Orlando
                       Hotel, Orlando, FL.  Horticulture and sightseeing
                       tours will be featured.
NOVEMBER 1987 (cont'd.)
 
   10-11               THE 21ST ANNUAL CLEMSON TURFGRASS CONFERENCE - the
                       Myrtle Beach Hilton, Myrtle Beach, SC; co-sponsored by 
                       Clemson University and the Department of Horticulture 
                       in cooperation with the Carolinas Golf Course 
                       Superintendents Association; open to all turfgrass 
                       managers, consultants, equipment and supplies 
                       distributors, county agents, students, designers and
                       architects, sod growers, superintendents, green 
                       committees, etc.
                       (Contact:  Dr. Landon Miller, Hort. Dept., 656-2565)
 
 
   18-20               THE CUMBERLAND-SHENANDOAH FRUIT WORKERS CONFERENCE
                       - Harpers Ferry, WV.
                       (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
DECEMBER 1987
 
    2-3                THE GEORGIA/SOUTH CAROLINA WINTER APPLE MEETING 
                       - the Holiday Inn, Gainesville, GA; co-sponsored by
                       the Georgia Marketing Authority, the SC Apple Growers
                       Association, and the University of GA and Clemson 
                       University Cooperative Extension Services.
                       (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
 
 
 
JANUARY 1988
 
    6-8                THE NORTH CAROLINA APPLE MEETING - Asheville, NC.
                       (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
 
   14-16               THE GEORGIA/SOUTH CAROLINA NURSERYMEN'S SHORT COURSE
                       - Savannah, GA; co-sponsored by the GA/SC Nurserymen's
                       Association in cooperation with the Clemson University
                       and University of GA Cooperative Extension Services.
                       (Contact:  Prof. John Kelly, Hort. Dept., 656-2565)
JANUARY 1988 (cont'd.)
 
 (Jan. or Feb.,        THE SOUTHEASTERN PEACH CONVENTION - Charleston, SC.
 date TBA)             (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
 
   30-31               THE SWEET POTATO COLLABORATORS CONFERENCE (in
                       connection with ASHS-SR Meetings) - New Orleans, LA.
                       (Contact:  Hort. Dept. Head's Office, 656-4964)
 
    31                 PECAN RESEARCH AND EXTENSION GROUP MEETING
                       (in connection with ASHS-SR Meetings) - New
                       Orleans, LA.
                       (Contact:  Hort. Dept. Head's Office, 656-4964)
 
 31-Feb. 2             THE 48TH ANNUAL MEETING OF THE AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR
                       HORTICULTURAL SCIENCE, SOUTHERN REGION - New Orleans,
                       LA.
                       (Contact:  Hort. Dept. Head's Office, 656-4964)
 
FEBRUARY 1988
 
    9-12               THE NATIONAL PEACH COUNCIL CONVENTION -  Atlantic City,
                       NJ.
                       (Contact:  Prof. John Ridley, Hort. Dept., 656-3412)
 
(Date & location TBA)  THE SOUTH CAROLINA GROUNDS MAINTENANCE CONFERENCE,
                       co-sponsored by the Department of Horticulture and 
                       the SC Landscape and Turfgrass Association.
                       (Contact:  Dr. Bob Mazur or Dr. Don Wagner, Hort. 
                       Dept., 656-2454 or 2459)
 
 
JUNE 1988
 
   19-22               THE SECOND INTERNATIONAL PEACH SYMPOSIUM - Clemson
                       University Campus; co-sponsored by Clemson University 
                       and the International Society for Horticultural 
                       Science, in conjunction with Clemson University's 
                       Centennial. 
                       (Contact:  Dr. D.C. Coston, Hort. Dept., 656-3403)
 
